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Auf Allen Gipfeln
Szene Sport FUSSBALL „Schlechtere Werte“ 320 Michael Fuchs, 41, Torwart - D P Bergsteiger A trainer der deutschen Frauen- D / Z T Nationalmannschaft, über R E P erklommen P die Leistungen der Torhüte - I N K rinnen bei der WM bereits die „Seven Summits“; die „Seven Second SPIEGEL: Der englischen Torfrau Karen Summits“ hat noch Bardsley und der Japanerin Ayumi keiner geschafft. Kaihori unterliefen bei der WM schwe - re Fehler, die zu Gegentreffern führ - ten. Trügt der Eindruck, oder fehlt vie - len Torhüterinnen im Vergleich zu den Feldspielerinnen das Niveau? Fuchs: Frauenfußball ist ein junger Sport, der Ausbildung der Torhüterin - nen wird noch zu wenig Beachtung ge - R E schenkt. 2007 wurde ich der erste D N A hauptamtliche Torwarttrainer der Na - L R E tionalmannschaft. Andere Teams, die M M A K Kammerlander auf dem Mount Logan in Kanada erst auf dem Sprung in die Weltspitze O R Ü sind, vernachlässi - B gen die Schulung der Torhüterinnen bis - BERGSTEIGEN her völlig. SPIEGEL: Welchen Einfluss haben ge - Auf allen Gipfeln schlechtsspezifische Unterschiede? er Südtiroler Hans Kammerlander will noch in diesem Jahr als erster Mensch Fuchs: Torfrauen sind die „Seven Second Summits“ bezwingen, die zweithöchsten Gipfel jedes G D I N kleiner als ihre Erdteils. Im April bestieg Kammerlander den 4730 Meter hohen Puncak Trikora Ö K D männlichen Kolle - in Indonesien, nun fehlt ihm nur noch der Mount Tyree (4852 Meter), der Berg N R E B gen und haben bei liegt in der Antarktis. Weil Kammerlander, 54, kaum Informationen über den Bardsley der Schnellkraft und Berg hat, will er ihn vor dem Aufstieg mehrmals mit dem Flugzeug umrunden, der Sprungkraft et - um die beste Route zu finden. -
New Peaks in 2001. a Press Release from Kathmandu on April 10 Declared That His Majesty's Government Would Open 15 New Peaks W
396 T HE A MERICAN A LPINE J OURNAL, 2002 Nepal New peaks in 2001. A press release from Kathmandu on April 10 declared that His Majesty’s Government would open 15 new peaks within one week and 50 more during the post monsoon season. However, after the spring season was underway the Government announced the opening of just nine peaks with immediate effect. This is the first time any peaks have been opened while a climbing season was in progress. These nine peaks comprised six in the Khumbu and one each in the Manaslu, Annapurna, and Dhaulagiri regions. The peaks listed were: Lhotse Middle Lhotse Middle, 8413m, just opened and already climbed (8413m), Peak 38 (Shartse II: 7590m), (see full story earlier in the journal). Yuri Koshelenko Hungchi (7136m), Numri (6677m), Teng Kangpoche (6500m), and Nhe Serku (5927m), all in the Khumbu, plus P2 (6251m) in the Manaslu region, Thorang Peak (5751m) in the Annapurna region, and Thapa Peak (6012m) in the Dhaulagiri region. New Peaks for 2002. The Government of Nepal officially announced the opening of 103 additional peaks to foreign expeditions. The announcement came on Christmas Eve 2001 and took effect from March 1, 2002. Unlike the 10 peaks brought on to the list in 1998 (Visit Nepal Year) for a two-year period only, it is reported these new additions will be permanent. Speaking in Kathmandu, Ganesh Raj Karki, Chief of the Mountaineering Department at the Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation, said,“This would not only help promote Nepal as the prime destination for mountaineering but also help development of the areas around these mountains.” Together with the nine peaks added to the list in spring 2001, mountaineers will now be allowed to climb 263 peaks throughout the Nepal Himalaya. -
A Statistical Analysis of Mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya
The Himalaya by the Numbers A Statistical Analysis of Mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya Richard Salisbury Elizabeth Hawley September 2007 Cover Photo: Annapurna South Face at sunrise (Richard Salisbury) © Copyright 2007 by Richard Salisbury and Elizabeth Hawley No portion of this book may be reproduced and/or redistributed without the written permission of the authors. 2 Contents Introduction . .5 Analysis of Climbing Activity . 9 Yearly Activity . 9 Regional Activity . .18 Seasonal Activity . .25 Activity by Age and Gender . 33 Activity by Citizenship . 33 Team Composition . 34 Expedition Results . 36 Ascent Analysis . 41 Ascents by Altitude Range . .41 Popular Peaks by Altitude Range . .43 Ascents by Climbing Season . .46 Ascents by Expedition Years . .50 Ascents by Age Groups . 55 Ascents by Citizenship . 60 Ascents by Gender . 62 Ascents by Team Composition . 66 Average Expedition Duration and Days to Summit . .70 Oxygen and the 8000ers . .76 Death Analysis . 81 Deaths by Peak Altitude Ranges . 81 Deaths on Popular Peaks . 84 Deadliest Peaks for Members . 86 Deadliest Peaks for Hired Personnel . 89 Deaths by Geographical Regions . .92 Deaths by Climbing Season . 93 Altitudes of Death . 96 Causes of Death . 97 Avalanche Deaths . 102 Deaths by Falling . 110 Deaths by Physiological Causes . .116 Deaths by Age Groups . 118 Deaths by Expedition Years . .120 Deaths by Citizenship . 121 Deaths by Gender . 123 Deaths by Team Composition . .125 Major Accidents . .129 Appendix A: Peak Summary . .135 Appendix B: Supplemental Charts and Tables . .147 3 4 Introduction The Himalayan Database, published by the American Alpine Club in 2004, is a compilation of records for all expeditions that have climbed in the Nepal Himalaya. -
The First Winter Ascent of Nanga Parbat
Pakistan Everest from Rongbuk Glacier, Tibet. Rob Fairley, 1987. (Watercolour. 36cm x 55cm. Private collection.) 21 SIMONE MORO The First Winter Ascent of Nanga Parbat The Diamir face of Nanga Parbat. Moro switched from the Messner route to the Kinshofer due to unusually risky conditions on his favoured line. (All photos courtesy of Simone Moro) t was a cold dream, one almost 30 years in the making, on an epic moun- Itain, the biggest in the world even if it isn’t the highest. In the course of those three decades I spent a whole year either under or on the slopes of Nanga Parbat before finally realising my ambition of climbing to the summit in winter, and with a unique group of people. To realise big dreams you have to accept long waits and numerous defeats; rework strategies, teams and tactics. In a nutshell, you have to be willing to be mentally very strong as well as physically. A winter expedition to an 8,000er is not the cold version of a spring or summer expedition. It’s another world, a way of doing alpinism that’s com- pletely different; one that has to be learned, understood and experienced. Cold is certainly one of the elements with which you have to cope, but there is also the constant wind, freezing and damn loud, a wind that can force 23 24 T HE A LPINE J OURN A L 2 0 1 6 T HE F IRS T W IN T ER A SCEN T O F N A N ga P A RB at 25 many technical details and protocols that must be respected when climb- ing an 8,000er in winter. -
Entrevista Simone Moro
Historias de... Simone Moro un ‘cavaliere’ de la montaña Simone Moro, también conocido en el mundo del alpinismo extremo como ‘Mr. Winter’ por su afición a realizar expediciones en la tan temida estación invernal, es uno de los máximos exponentes del himalayismo de vanguardia. Actualmente es el único montañero vivo con dos primeras invernales de ochomiles a sus espaldas, y sólo el mágico ‘Jurek’ (Jerzy Kukuzka) logró hacer algo semejante antes de fallecer en la cara sur del Lhotse (8.516 m). TEXTO: JAVIER BAÑÓN IZU FOTOS: ARCHIVO SIMONE MORO 78 OXIGENO Abril 2009 eentrevistantrevista ssimoneimone 110.indd0.indd SSec1:78ec1:78 117/03/20097/03/2009 116:56:116:56:11 No estamos hablando sólo de un portento físico y psicológico, Simone es también un maestro de la “Mi primera expedición fue en el Everest, en 1992 técnica, y ha demostrado en numerosas ocasiones que es una máquina, pero con corazón humano. y no llegué a la cima debido a la aclimatación” Uno de los sucesos que más repercusión causa- ron (además de sus expediciones en invierno) fue Nel rescate que realizó entre el Everest y el Lhotse (a 8.000 m de altura) de un novato de 19 años y curiosamente, fue la renuncia de uno de sus pro- yectos más ambiciosos lo que le convirtió en un héroe. No obstante él no busca fama, sólo quiere hacer lo que más le gusta: seguir escribiendo las páginas más bonitas de la exploración humana. Al cierre de esta edición nos llegó la noticia de que Simone había recibido el premio ‘Marco e Sergio Dalla Longa’ que otorga el CAI (Centro Alpino Italiano) por la primera ascensión absoluta del ‘Beka Brakai Chhok’ (Karakorum). -
Annapurna I, East Ridge, Third Ascent. One of the Most Nota
C LIMBS A ND E XP E DITIONS : N E PA L 375 Nepal ANNAPURNA HIMAL Annapurna I, east ridge, third ascent. One of the most nota- ble accomplishments of the season was the second two- way traverse of the east ridge of Annapurna I (8,091m). When the well-known Pol- ish climber, Piotr Pustelnik, organized his four-man team for this task, he was well aware of the difficulties they would confront on this huge ridge, which starts from Tarke Kang (a.k.a. Glacier Dome, 7,193m) in the east and runs westward over Roc Noir to the three 8,000m summits of Annapurna. However, he did not anticipate the addition of two not-so-highly skilled Tibetans on his permit and the problems one of them would present. The first ascent of the east ridge, which resulted in an elegant traverse of Annapurna, ranks with some of the most significant events in the history of Himalayan climbing. The ridge was first attempted by Germans in 1969, and again in 1981 by a Swedish team, the latter getting as far as the East Summit of Annapurna. Both approached via the West Annapurna Glacier and the east side of the col north of Fluted Peak. In September and October 1984 a six-man expedition entirely formed of Swiss guides, established four camps from the South Annapurna Glacier, climbing to the col between Fluted Peak and Tarke Kang from the more difficult but less dangerous west side, then, in common with the Germans and Swedes, up the ridge above to Tarke Kang itself. -
Seven Second Summits
Hans Kammerlander Seven Second Summits Hans Kammerlander mit Walther Lücker Über Berge um die Welt Mit 77 farbigen Abbildungen und einer Karte MALIK Mehr über unsere Autoren und Bücher: www.malik.de Von Hans Kammerlander liegen bei Malik und Piper außerdem vor: Bergsüchtig Abstieg zum Erfolg Unten und oben – Berggeschichten Am seidenen Faden – K2 und andere Grenzerfahrungen Zurück nach Morgen – Augenblicke an den 14 Achttausendern ISBN 978-3-89029-427-8 © Piper Verlag GmbH, München 2012 2. Auflage 2013 Fotos: Hans Kammerlander Karte: Eckehard Radehose, Schliersee Satz: Kösel, Krugzell Druck und Bindung: CPI – Ebner & Spiegel, Ulm Printed in Germany Inhalt Prolog Das Abenteuer beginnt zwei Meter abseits der ausgetrampelten Pfade 7 Asien – K2 Ein Bilderbuchberg Auf dem Gipfel mischte sich Wehmut in die Freude, und ein neues Ziel nahm Gestalt an 23 Südamerika – Ojos del Salado Wüstensand und ein Kraterloch In der Atacama erklärte mir ein Freund, dass man Bilder nicht unbedingt in einem Album aufbewahren muss 52 Afrika – Mount Kenia Ein kleines Wetterfenster genügte Winterliche Besteigung unter Afrikas Schneehimmel 76 Nordamerika – Mount Logan Über Nacht öffnete sich der Gletscher Im Grenzgebiet zwischen Alaska und Kanada ist der Beruf des Piloten eine Kunst 100 Europa – Dychtau Ein schier endlos langer Tag an einem großen Berg Im Kaukasus lernt man Härte, Leidensfähigkeit und wuchtige Berge kennen 134 Australien-Ozeanien – Puncak Trikora Dauerhaft nass und jede Menge Spaß Ein Berg, ein Koch, zerschlissene Gummistiefel, eine Erst- und eine Zweitbegehung 167 Antarktis – Mount Tyree Spannung in vielerlei Hinsicht In der Antarktis zwischen Daunentouristen, großer Abgeschiedenheit und einer Menge Zwist 199 Epilog Über Berge um die Welt Gefangen zwischen Schlagzeilen – die Besteigung des Mount Logan 238 Prolog Das Abenteuer beginnt zwei Meter abseits der ausgetrampelten Pfade Vor rund sechzig Millionen Jahren zerfiel unsere Erdkruste. -
Nanga Parbat: First Winter Ascent Pakistan, Western Himalaya at 3.17 P.M
AAC Publications Nanga Parbat: First Winter Ascent Pakistan, Western Himalaya At 3.17 p.m. on February 26, Simone Moro (Italy), Muhammad Ali Sadpara (Pakistan), and Alex Txikon (Spain) stepped onto the summit of Nanga Parbat (8,125m) to make the long-awaited first winter ascent. Before the 2015-’16 winter season, which in the Northern Hemisphere conventionally runs from December 21 to March 20, a total of 31 expeditions had attempted Nanga Parbat in winter. Six more teams arrived for this winter season, and two of these eventually combined forces to make the successful ascent. Although more of a reconnaissance than a serious attempt (Nanga Parbat had not been climbed at that time), the first foray onto the mountain in winter conditions occurred in 1950, when a three-man team of British mountaineers established a couple of camps on the Rakhiot Face in December. When he started to suffer frostbite in the toes, Robert Marsh descended, leaving his companions William Crace and John Thornley in a tent at about 5,500m. They were never seen again. The Poles, those doyens of Himalayan winter mountaineering, started the ball rolling again in the 1988-’89 season. This and most subsequent expeditions failed to get above 7,000m. The best effort until this year came in early February 1997, when a Polish team led by the father of high-altitude winter mountaineering, Andrzej Zawada, established four camps on the standard Kinshofer Route, from the highest of which two climbers made a push for the top. Zbigniew Trzmiel reached a point only 250m below the summit before turning around. -
New Yorker Magazine
ANNALS OF ADVENTURE THE MANIC MOUNTAIN Ueli Steck and the clash on Everest. BY NICK PAUMGARTEN TH RIFFI G AN H NAT JO 46 THE NEW YO R K E R , J U N E 3 , 2 0 1 3 TNY—2013_06_03—PAGE 46—133SC.—LIVE ART R23602—EXTREMELY CRITICAL PHOTOGRAPH TO BE WATCHED THROUGHOUT THE ENTIRE PRESS RUN 4C eli Steck’s closest brush with death, many of whom work as porters and guides April 27th was the day that a team of or at least the time he thought it like- for the commercial expeditions on Ever- Sherpas were installing the fixed rope. It liestU that he was about to die, came not est. This was on the first day that the is an essential and difficult job, involving when he plummeted seven hundred feet weather cleared for a summit push. The heavy gear and extreme working condi- down the south face of Annapurna, or next day, the crowds went up—hundreds tions on an ice cliff riddled with crevasses. spidered up the Eiger’s fearsome North of aspirants, most of them clients of com- The day before, the Sherpas, with help Face alone and without ropes in under mercial companies, and their Sherpas— from three Western guides, had nearly three hours, or slipped on wet granite and, amid the traffic jam approaching the completed the job but came to an untra- while free-climbing the Golden Gate summit, four climbers died, of exposure versable crevasse, which had forced them route of El Capitan with his wife, on their and cerebral edema. -
My Life in Climbing by Ueli Steck MY LIFE in CLIMBING Ueli Steck
AAC Publications My Life in Climbing By Ueli Steck MY LIFE IN CLIMBING Ueli Steck. Mountaineers Books, 2018. Paperback, 224 pages, $21.95. My Life in Climbing is a terse and passionate record of the late Ueli Steck’s drive and determination to reach summits quickly and prolifically, with partners and often alone. The book expresses the anxieties, uncertainties, joys, and passions that attend one whose career, and maybe sense of self, depend on pushing the limits of novelty on mountains, most of which, of course, were previously climbed, by many routes and in many styles. Steck long dreamed of soloing Everest’s West Ridge, linking to Lhotse, and possibly over Nuptse in a push. While acclimatizing for an early attempt at this feat in spring of 2013, Steck’s team of three marched, perhaps a bit casually, across a “construction zone” where many Sherpas were fixing lines to the South Col. The Sherpas angrily confronted the three unroped and unanchored friends, even punching Simone Moro. Unnerved in many ways, the climbers headed home. Steck’s solo of Annapurna’s south face in the fall of 2013 was both lauded (with a Piolet d’Or, his second), and doubted. First climbed in a British siege, the face offers almost two vertical miles of intense alpinism. After his partner bailed, Steck impulsively crossed the ’schrund, and reported summiting 28 hours later. High on the climb, a dropped camera carried away any unambiguous verification. Though some witnesses reported Steck’s headlamp very high on the route, for many his Annapurna was tinged with doubt: no camera, no GPS track, no sightings on the summit. -
HANS KAMMERLANDER Ein Interview Von Andi Fichtner
16 interview HANS KAMMERLANDER Ein Interview von Andi Fichtner Was bekommt der Zuschauer in deinem Vortrag zu sehen? Mein Vortrag hat ganz verschiedene Gesichter. Harter Alpinismus am K2, dem »Berg der Berge«, dann komplett anders: Die Wüste von Chile, der Urwald von Neuguinea, die Weite der Antarktis … Kulturell und landschaftlich ist es eine riesige Fülle, für die es sich auf den Reisen lohnt, viel Zeit mitzunehmen, um sie zu erleben. Wie kamst du zur Idee, der »Seven Second Summits«? Für jemanden, dem es nicht steil und anspruchsvoll genug sein kann, eine ungewöhnliche Sache. Nachdem die bekannten großen Berge dieser Welt längst bestiegen sind, die 14 Acht- tausender und auch besonders die »Seven Summits« von Bergsteigern gesammelt werden, dass fast schon ein Massentourismus entsteht, war es für mich eine viel größere Als der Südtiroler Kammerlander den K2, Herausforderung, die zweithöchsten Gipfel zu besteigen. Ein schwieriges Unternehmen, den zweithöchsten Gipfel der Erde und den denn diese Berge liegen nicht im allgemeinen Fokus der Bergsteiger und sind zum Teil wohl schwierigsten seiner insgesamt 13 schwieriger zu besteigen, als die Höchsten, was das ganze auch aus alpinistischer Sicht Achttausender bestieg, reifte dort oben in sehr interessant gemacht hat. ihm bereits ein neuer Plan. Er beschloss, auf allen sieben Kontinenten die jeweils zweit- Als 2008 meine Tochter zur Welt kam, war es genau der richtige Moment, mich vom höchsten Gipfel zu besteigen, die „Seven allgemeinen alpinen Wettlauf zu distanzieren. Ich wollte nur noch schöne Geschichten Second Summits“. Anlässlich seines Vortrags machen. Dazu gehörten die zweithöchsten Gipfel. So kam ich auf Kontinente, auf denen in Stuttgart sprach Andi Fichtner mit der ich noch nie war. -
Muhammad Ali Sadpara an Anonymous Prince of the Mountains Anwar Ali1*, Munir Ahmed2 and Ahmed Bostani3
Saudi Journal of Medicine Abbreviated Key Title: Saudi J Med ISSN 2518-3389 (Print) |ISSN 2518-3397 (Online) Scholars Middle East Publishers, Dubai, United Arab Emirates Journal homepage: https://saudijournals.com Review Article Muhammad Ali Sadpara an Anonymous Prince of the Mountains Anwar Ali1*, Munir Ahmed2 and Ahmed Bostani3 1Dr. Anwar Ali, PhD-Public Health and Preventive Medicine, Hunan Provincial Key Laboratory of Clinical Epidemiology, Central South University, Changsha City, Hunan, China 2Mr. Munir Ahmed, MPhil Scholar, Department of Food Science and Engineering, Yangzhou University, Yangzhou City, Jiangsu Province, China 3Mr. Ahmed Bostani, MPhil Scholar, Department of Tourism Management, Dongbei University of Finance and Economics, Dalian City, Liaoning Province, China DOI: 10.36348/sjm.2021.v06i02.004 | Received: 02.02.2021 | Accepted: 17.02.2021 | Published: 27.02.2021 *Corresponding Author: Anwar Ali Abstract Mountaineering is a field that is easy to see but very difficult, those who adopt this field are well aware that one day they may not be able to see the next day’s sun. It is also very attractive in the background of how dangerous it looks. The beauty of the mountain valleys can only be appreciated by one who has seen it up close and Muhammad Ali Sadpara was one of those lucky people. He was the prince of the mountains who hoisted the flag of his nation on the highest peaks of the world. He climbed eight of 14 Eight-thousanders. His first climb was Gasherbrum II in Karakoram. In this review we tried to explore the life of a mountaineer who sacrificed his life just for the sake of his nation and country.