Asian Alpine E-News Issue No.9
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Intermediate Snowcraft Course Nzac Instruction
NZAC INSTRUCTION PROGRAMME INTERMEDIATE SNOWCRAFT COURSE AUCKLAND SECTION 31st July to 1st August and 14th to 15th August NZAC – Intermediate Snowcraft Course LOCATION: Whakapapa, Mt Ruapehu ACCOMODATION: NZAC Ruapehu Hut COURSE FEES: $595 Who is this course for? The NZAC Intermediate Snowcraft course is designed for NZAC Novice Mountaineers (or those with an equivalent skill set) who are looking to gain additional skills to travel safely in alpine terrain where straightforward steep snow and ice is encountered, and where abseiling on descent could be required. This is an alpine course suitable for NZAC Novice Mountaineers who have consolidated their skills through trips on grade 1+ alpine terrain. Please ensure you meet the minimum requirements. CLICK HERE TO REGISTER ONLINE NZAC – Intermediate Snowcraft Course At a minimum, those wishing to register for the Intermediate Snowcraft Course must: ● Have some experience in backcountry tramping ● Have undertaken personal trips on Mount Cook Grade 1+ terrain. ● Be competent in the course outcomes detailed in the NZAC Basic Snowcraft Course Outline ● Have the fitness to enjoy multiple full days in the mountain environment. Course Syllabus: Preparing for the alpine environment ● Clothing / equipment ● Trip planning resources (avalanche forecast / weather forecasts / guidebooks) ● Weather ● Navigation ● Physical Training Being and moving in the alpine environment ● Use of two ice axes, for daggering and piolet traction on moderately steep snow ● The use of crampons on steeper terrain ● Building -
New Peaks in 2001. a Press Release from Kathmandu on April 10 Declared That His Majesty's Government Would Open 15 New Peaks W
396 T HE A MERICAN A LPINE J OURNAL, 2002 Nepal New peaks in 2001. A press release from Kathmandu on April 10 declared that His Majesty’s Government would open 15 new peaks within one week and 50 more during the post monsoon season. However, after the spring season was underway the Government announced the opening of just nine peaks with immediate effect. This is the first time any peaks have been opened while a climbing season was in progress. These nine peaks comprised six in the Khumbu and one each in the Manaslu, Annapurna, and Dhaulagiri regions. The peaks listed were: Lhotse Middle Lhotse Middle, 8413m, just opened and already climbed (8413m), Peak 38 (Shartse II: 7590m), (see full story earlier in the journal). Yuri Koshelenko Hungchi (7136m), Numri (6677m), Teng Kangpoche (6500m), and Nhe Serku (5927m), all in the Khumbu, plus P2 (6251m) in the Manaslu region, Thorang Peak (5751m) in the Annapurna region, and Thapa Peak (6012m) in the Dhaulagiri region. New Peaks for 2002. The Government of Nepal officially announced the opening of 103 additional peaks to foreign expeditions. The announcement came on Christmas Eve 2001 and took effect from March 1, 2002. Unlike the 10 peaks brought on to the list in 1998 (Visit Nepal Year) for a two-year period only, it is reported these new additions will be permanent. Speaking in Kathmandu, Ganesh Raj Karki, Chief of the Mountaineering Department at the Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation, said,“This would not only help promote Nepal as the prime destination for mountaineering but also help development of the areas around these mountains.” Together with the nine peaks added to the list in spring 2001, mountaineers will now be allowed to climb 263 peaks throughout the Nepal Himalaya. -
Pressive and Should Broaden the Book's Appeal Far Beyond Those Familiar with Its Subject
FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE Publicity Contact: Samantha Lien, Roger Charlie (720) 425-3933 | [email protected] EDGE OF THE MAP THE MOUNTAIN LIFE OF CHRISTINE BOSKOFF “The Next Must-Read” — REI Uncommon Path “An intimate look at the friendships and adventures enjoyed by those in the close-knit mountaineering community.” — Booklist “Equal parts climbing history, love story, and riveting mystery.” — Vanessa O’Brien, first American and British woman to summit K2 The Remarkable, Untold Story of a Pioneer in Mountaineering Groundbreaking. World-class. Legendary. All words that have been used to describe Christine Boskoff, a pioneering high- altitude mountaineer and mountain guide, one of the first women to own and operate a major, international mountain guiding business. And yet, her story—that of a talented and driven young woman who dared to challenge herself to excel in a male-dominated sport—is largely unknown. A remarkable life tragically cut short, Boskoff was at the top of the high- altitude world when she and her partner Charlie Fowler died in an avalanche on a remote mountain in 2006; at the time, she was the only living woman to summit six of the 8000-meter peaks. Charismatic, principled, and humble, Boskoff was also a deeply loved role model to her climbing partners and the Sherpa community. Edge of the Map traces the sharp twists and turns in Boskoff’s life, from her early years as a Lockheed engineer, through her first successes in the climbing world, to her purchase of Seattle-based Mountain Madness after owner and climber Scott Fischer was killed in the 1996 Everest disaster. -
Jan-Vol11-84-92.Pdf
e JAPANESE ALPINE NEWS 2010 JOE PURYEAR Things Things Invisible to See A quest for unknown mountains in Chna and Nepal At first the telltale sound of death came from abov 巴， like a helicopter’s blades spinning and rapidly approaching. approaching. But as soon as I saw it, I knew rockfall wasn’t going to kill us: its path skewed slightly from our our position, just 巴nough to leave us safe. I could even let myself notice its eerie, unusual beauty. Rocks glided glided down the blue ice, skimming the surface as they approached terminal velocity. Then my heart pounded loud again: Rockfall? David Gottlieb and I were right in the middle of a tilted ice sheet, weaving our our way through two gargantuan hanging glaciers, concerned about icefall. We hadn’t even considered considered the rockband that rose directly above us. But th巴re was no way, really, to prepare for a mountain like this: the summit of Jobo Ri町 ang was untouched, untouched, our line unattempted. All we had to go on were incorrect maps and low-res photos taken 企om distance. a distance. We didn’t even know what Jobo Rinjang would look like close up .My past experiences on unclimbed unclimbed peaks had taught me that each one would be entirely different from the next. Beyond the swath of blue ice we’d chosen, a decaying rampart of ancient stone, barely held together by patches patches of disintegrating ic巴， fell away to the Lunag Glaci巴r . Dikes and streaking bands of burnt umber, umber, dark gray and beige were crayoned across the wall like a child’s chaotic drawing. -
Equipment Notes Are a Comprehensive Guide Which Covers All Our Summer Trips, from Three-Day Treks to Twelve- Day High Alpine Courses
Due to the nature of the mountain environment, equipment and clothing must be suitable for its intended purpose. It must be light, remain effective when wet or iced, and dry easily. These notes will help you make informed choices. Bring along the mandatory clothing, wet weather gear and any equipment you already own that is on the equipment checklist. This gives you an opportunity to practice with your gear and equipment so that you become efficient at using it out in the field. These equipment notes are a comprehensive guide which covers all our Summer trips, from three-day treks to twelve- day high alpine courses. Please look over your equipment checklist to see what is required and refer only to the sections that are pertinent to your trip. Adventure Consultants can offer clients good pricing on a range of clothing and equipment. Please feel free to contact us if you would like any advice on specific products or if you would like to special order any clothing or equipment for your upcoming trip. BODY WEAR Waterproof Shell Jacket Bring a non-insulated, fully waterproof shell jacket with water-resistant zip closures and a good hood capable of fitting over a helmet. The jacket should be easy to move in with your base and mid layers on underneath, and provide a good overlap with your pants, but should not be so long that it restricts access to your harness. Chest pockets are useful to things like snacks and sunscreen during the day. Pit zips allow for increased ventilation and cooling. -
Scenes from the 20Th Century
Scenes from the 20th Century REINHOLD MESSNER An Essay for the New Millennium Based on a lecture given at the Alpine Club Symposium: 'Climbing into the Millennium - Where's it Going?' at Sheffield Hallam University on 6 March 1999 erhaps I'm the right age now, with the right perspective to view Pmountaineering, both its past and its future. Enough time has elapsed between my last eight-thousander and my first heart attack for me to be able to look more calmly at what it is we do. I believe it will not be easy for us to agree on an ethic that will save mountaineering for the next millennium. But in our search for such an ethic we first need to ask ourselves what values are the most important to us, both in our motivation for going to the mountains and on the mountains themselves. The first and most important thing I want to say has to do with risk. If we go to the mountains and forget that we are taking a risk, we will make mistakes, like those tourists recently in Austria who were trapped in a valley hit by an avalanche; 38 of them were killed. All over Europe people said: 'How could 38 people die in an avalanche? They were just on a skiing holiday.' They forgot that mountains are dangerous. But it's also important to remember that mountains are only dangerous if people are there. A mountain is a mountain; its basic existence doesn't pose a threat to anyone. It's a piece of rock and ice, beautiful maybe, but dangerous only if you approach it. -
Catalogue 48: June 2013
Top of the World Books Catalogue 48: June 2013 Mountaineering Fiction. The story of the struggles of a Swiss guide in the French Alps. Neate X134. Pete Schoening Collection – Part 1 Habeler, Peter. The Lonely Victory: Mount Everest ‘78. 1979 Simon & We are most pleased to offer a number of items from the collection of American Schuster, NY, 1st, 8vo, pp.224, 23 color & 50 bw photos, map, white/blue mountaineer Pete Schoening (1927-2004). Pete is best remembered in boards; bookplate Ex Libris Pete Schoening & his name in pencil, dj w/ edge mountaineering circles for performing ‘The Belay’ during the dramatic descent wear, vg-, cloth vg+. #9709, $25.- of K2 by the Third American Karakoram Expedition in 1953. Pete’s heroics The first oxygenless ascent of Everest in 1978 with Messner. This is the US saved six men. However, Pete had many other mountain adventures, before and edition of ‘Everest: Impossible Victory’. Neate H01, SB H01, Yak H06. after K2, including: numerous climbs with Fred Beckey (1948-49), Mount Herrligkoffer, Karl. Nanga Parbat: The Killer Mountain. 1954 Knopf, NY, Saugstad (1st ascent, 1951), Mount Augusta (1st ascent) and King Peak (2nd & 1st, 8vo, pp.xx, 263, viii, 56 bw photos, 6 maps, appendices, blue cloth; book- 3rd ascents, 1952), Gasherburm I/Hidden Peak (1st ascent, 1958), McKinley plate Ex Libris Pete Schoening, dj spine faded, edge wear, vg, cloth bookplate, (1960), Mount Vinson (1st ascent, 1966), Pamirs (1974), Aconcagua (1995), vg. #9744, $35.- Kilimanjaro (1995), Everest (1996), not to mention countless climbs in the Summarizes the early attempts on Nanga Parbat from Mummery in 1895 and Pacific Northwest. -
The First Winter Ascent of Nanga Parbat
Pakistan Everest from Rongbuk Glacier, Tibet. Rob Fairley, 1987. (Watercolour. 36cm x 55cm. Private collection.) 21 SIMONE MORO The First Winter Ascent of Nanga Parbat The Diamir face of Nanga Parbat. Moro switched from the Messner route to the Kinshofer due to unusually risky conditions on his favoured line. (All photos courtesy of Simone Moro) t was a cold dream, one almost 30 years in the making, on an epic moun- Itain, the biggest in the world even if it isn’t the highest. In the course of those three decades I spent a whole year either under or on the slopes of Nanga Parbat before finally realising my ambition of climbing to the summit in winter, and with a unique group of people. To realise big dreams you have to accept long waits and numerous defeats; rework strategies, teams and tactics. In a nutshell, you have to be willing to be mentally very strong as well as physically. A winter expedition to an 8,000er is not the cold version of a spring or summer expedition. It’s another world, a way of doing alpinism that’s com- pletely different; one that has to be learned, understood and experienced. Cold is certainly one of the elements with which you have to cope, but there is also the constant wind, freezing and damn loud, a wind that can force 23 24 T HE A LPINE J OURN A L 2 0 1 6 T HE F IRS T W IN T ER A SCEN T O F N A N ga P A RB at 25 many technical details and protocols that must be respected when climb- ing an 8,000er in winter. -
Entrevista Simone Moro
Historias de... Simone Moro un ‘cavaliere’ de la montaña Simone Moro, también conocido en el mundo del alpinismo extremo como ‘Mr. Winter’ por su afición a realizar expediciones en la tan temida estación invernal, es uno de los máximos exponentes del himalayismo de vanguardia. Actualmente es el único montañero vivo con dos primeras invernales de ochomiles a sus espaldas, y sólo el mágico ‘Jurek’ (Jerzy Kukuzka) logró hacer algo semejante antes de fallecer en la cara sur del Lhotse (8.516 m). TEXTO: JAVIER BAÑÓN IZU FOTOS: ARCHIVO SIMONE MORO 78 OXIGENO Abril 2009 eentrevistantrevista ssimoneimone 110.indd0.indd SSec1:78ec1:78 117/03/20097/03/2009 116:56:116:56:11 No estamos hablando sólo de un portento físico y psicológico, Simone es también un maestro de la “Mi primera expedición fue en el Everest, en 1992 técnica, y ha demostrado en numerosas ocasiones que es una máquina, pero con corazón humano. y no llegué a la cima debido a la aclimatación” Uno de los sucesos que más repercusión causa- ron (además de sus expediciones en invierno) fue Nel rescate que realizó entre el Everest y el Lhotse (a 8.000 m de altura) de un novato de 19 años y curiosamente, fue la renuncia de uno de sus pro- yectos más ambiciosos lo que le convirtió en un héroe. No obstante él no busca fama, sólo quiere hacer lo que más le gusta: seguir escribiendo las páginas más bonitas de la exploración humana. Al cierre de esta edición nos llegó la noticia de que Simone había recibido el premio ‘Marco e Sergio Dalla Longa’ que otorga el CAI (Centro Alpino Italiano) por la primera ascensión absoluta del ‘Beka Brakai Chhok’ (Karakorum). -
Spirits of the Air. Kurt Diemberger. Translated from the German
Spirits o f the Air. Kurt Diemberger. Translated from the German by Audrey Salkeld. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1994. 304 pages, numerous photo graphs, maps and other drawings. Appendices: a metric conversion table, chronology of the author’s important climbs and expeditions, brief note on mountaineering terminology, and selected bibliography. $27.95. Kurt Diemberger’s mountaineering and expedition filming accomplishments, spanning nearly 50 years, are a marvel to behold. His autobiographical Summits and Secrets, published in 1971 when Kurt was 39, established him as a mountaineering writer of considerable talent. By this time he had already participated in first ascents of two major peaks Broad Peak (8047 meters) and Dhaulagiri (8167 meters). The 1957 ascent of Broad Peak was accomplished in alpine-style, without either oxygen or high-altitude porters, quite an achievement for this 4-man team consisting of Diemberger, Hermann Buhl, Fritz Wintersteller and Markus Schmuck. Later, in 1978, he added Makalu (8463 meters) and Everest (8848 meters) to his 8000-meter peak list; and Gasherbrum II (8035 meters) a year later. It was on this French-led Everest expedition that Kurt made film history by producing a sync-sound film on the summit. Diemberger became the cameraman of choice for many international expeditions and between 1982-86 journeyed several times to K2 with the Englishwoman Julie Tullis; together they established themselves as the only 8000-meter film team, Kurt with the camera, Julie in charge of sound. They climbed K2 in the summer of 1986, but as they retreated to high camp on the Abruzzi Spur they and five other mountaineers were imprisoned by a catastrophic week-long blizzard. -
Helmets Culture Shock Be Inspired
32418_Cover 12/4/02 10:58 am Page 1 ISSUE 26 - SUMMER 2002 £2.50 Helmets Off Centre Impacts Culture Shock Climbers in Wadi Rum Be Inspired Stanage and On Peak Rock ALPINE A – Z NEW INSURANCE PULLING POWER PHOTO COMP WINNERS • MOUNTAIN TRAVEL • YEARBOOK • EXHIBITION FOREWORD... SUMMER SUMMITS elcome to Summit 26 which this time focuses on mountain travel, summer rock and getting Wout in the great outdoors. For me, like many climbers and walkers, the day the clocks change is a notable date in the annual calendar. All of a sudden the winter blues start to fade away, the daffodils come into bloom, the evenings lengthen, optimism returns, plans start to become reality – it’s summertime and it's time to head for the hills! The spring and summer months are indeed a wonderful time in the climbing year-book. This year, the clocks went forward over the Easter weekend and for some of us, the sun even shone. Honeypot areas such as Snowdonia, the Lakes, the Yorkshire Dales and other National Parks were heaving with visitors: Portland, Pembroke and Gogarth bus- tled - people were out there doing it and the countryside was well and truly back in business. Personally, I had an unusually quiet Easter. Unlike many others who headed for Scotland, the Alps, Fontainebleau or Sardinia, I stayed at home, recharged my batteries, ate good food, drank Abso- lution and made plans for the year. A couple of long walks took me up and around the Kinder plateau, following in the footsteps of the Kinder trespassers on one occasion and scoping out some new lines on another. -
Contents Volume 36, June 2017
THE HIMALAYAN CLUB E-LETTER VOLUME 36 Contents Volume 36, June 2017 Ninety Years of The Himalayan Club – Celebrations and New Beginnings 4 The Himalayan Club Logo for the 90th Year Celebrations 4 An Overwhelming Annual Seminar 4 Launch of Commemorative Himalayan Journal Issue 7 Kekoo Naoroji Book Award 8 Jagdish Nanavati Award for Excellence in Mountaineering 8 Jagdish Nanavati Garud Medal 8 Annual Dinner 9 Banff Film Festival 10 Arun Samant Memorial Lecture 10 Visit to Dharamsala 10 A short Sojourn with the Himalayan Club 17 New Beginnings with the Digital Age 18 Activities of the Delhi Section 18 Climbs and Explorations 19 Tibet 19 Exploration of Southern Tibet 19 International team climbs in Genyen massif, Sichuan - Mt. Hutsa & Peak 5912m 20 Small Australian-Chinese team explores new ground in Tibet 23 Tibet’s Jang Tsang Go climbed 27 South Face of Shisha Pangma in 13 hours 28 Sikkim and Nepal Himalaya 28 Kangchenjunga Skyline Project 28 New Catalan climbs in Nepal 29 Three new routes in Nepal’s Rolwaling Valley 30 First alpine style ascent of Gimmigela East’s North Face 32 Everest - Hillary Step collapsed 33 Kumaun and Garhwal Himalaya 33 Direct route up Thalay Sagar North Face(6904m) 33 Himachal Pradesh 35 Shiv Shankar – 6050m – First ascent of the North Buttress 35 2 THE HIMALAYAN CLUB E-LETTER VOLUME 36 Kishtwar Himalaya 37 A new Route on South face of Brammah II 37 News & Views 39 IMF News 39 Augmented Climbing Wall 40 Dirtbag: The Legend of Fred Beckey 41 Piolets d’Or Awards – 2017 41 Obituaries 42 Warwick Deacock 42 Ueli Steck 44 The man to remember 47 Erich Abram, the last Italian K2 mountaineer 48 Office bearers of the Himalayan Club for the year 2017 50 Narration for Cover Page A 90 year Journey.