A23 and St Croix Imray-Iolaire CHARTS FOR THE EASTERN ABOUT THIS CHART Compiled by DM Street Jnr This chart has been compiled by D M Street Jr using official sources and additional information acquired during more than 50 years of cruising, racing, exploring, chartering and charting the eastern Caribbean on his 46’ engineless yawl Iolaire, built 1905. He is the author of many yachting books and articles, first of which was ‘ Going South’ Yachting, 1964. His Cruising Guide to the Lesser is regarded as ‘the book that opened the Caribbean to the cruising yachtsman and made bare boat IMPORTANT chartering possible’. It is worth reading for its nostalgic view of the Caribbean in the 1950s and ‘60s. Over the years it has been expanded to cover the entire eastern For the latest chart Caribbean, from the western end of east and south through the islands to corrections visit Trinidad, then westwards along the Venezuelan coast and offshore islands to . www.imray.com Use Street’s Guides for interisland sailing directions, harbour piloting directions and interesting anecdotes about people, places and history. They are the only guides that cover all the anchorages in the eastern Caribbean. Patience Wales, editor of Sail , once The information shown on charts is said, ‘Circle in red all the anchorages that Street describes that are not in the other liable to constant change; Imray guides and you will have a quiet anchorage’. ensures that every chart is correct to Street has also been in the marine insurance business, placing insurance for yachts of all sizes and ages sailing in all parts of the world with Lloyds, since 1966. Visit the printing date shown below. www.street-iolaire.com. Email [email protected]. The author and publishers believe that this chart is the most accurate and up to date Corrections received after this date available of the area it covers. It can, however, only remain so if mariners notify the may be downloaded from publishers of any inaccuracy or need for correction of which they may be aware. www.imray.com as Correction The pilotage information on this chart is taken from Street’s Guide to Puerto Rico and Notices. These are regularly updated the Spanish, US and to which page numbers refer. It may be ordered and the website should be checked. from: Bluewater Books and Charts www.bluewaterweb.com Smartphone users Landfall Navigation www.landfallnavigation.com can link directly to Imray Laurie Norie & Wilson Ltd www.imray.com the Corrections Five popular sailing videos made in the late 1980s/early 1990s featuring D M Street Jr Notice for this chart are now available as DVDs. The most popular, Transatlantic with Street , the story of using the QR code. Iolaire’s 1985 transatlantic via Vigo, Madeira, Canaries, Cape Verdes has been highly recommended by Herb McCormick and Tom Cunliffe. TheSailingChannel.TV offers all five videos in one digital package, The Complete Street , at https://vimeo.com/ondemand/thecompletestreet

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Vieques (ILNW 213/16) C a r i b b e a n

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1 Speed made good to windward

Pilotage notes by e d

1 i t Hr l DM Street, Jr ZENITH r u i g e o a e n d d l i f f AST TID i

E

E e t k g

e n n e c n o d k k p a i a 1 T S N 1 t 1 Hr 90 4 1.83 2.83 3.83 100 1.56 2.56 3.56 W

E

E D I S 110 1.29 2.29 3.29

T T

T

T 120 1.0 2.0 3.0

S I

A23 Virgin Islands and St D E E

W 90 5 2.54 3.54 4.54 Croix 100 2.2 3.2 4.2 1 Customs and immigration in the US and Hr 110 1.87 2.87 3.87 British Virgin Islands are strict. In the US 120 1.5 2.5 3.5 Virgin Islands, customs and immigration EAST TIDE 90 6 3.25 4.25 5.25 clearance can be had at Charlotte Amalie (St 100 2.84 3.84 4.84 NADIR Thomas), Cruz Bay (St John’s) and at both 1 Hr 110 2.44 3.44 5.44 Christiansted and Frederiksted (St Croix). 120 2.0 3.0 4.0 Inform the harbourmaster 48 hours before entering US waters. The entire crew must show up at immigration, all non-US citizens If you plan your passages so that you have must have a valid visa if coming in on a yacht the flood tide helping you it can make a because the visa waiver program works on Current (knots) large difference to your sailing time. There is common carriers, aircraft and ferries but not Boat Speed 1.5 1.2 1.0 0.8 a brief, rule of thumb method. The tide starts on yachts. In 2005 new regulations came into (knots) running to the east soon after moonrise, effect regarding pre-clearance/notification. 2 37 º 31 º 27 º 22 º continues to run east until about an hour Check these regulations carefully before 3 27 º 22 º 18 º 15 º after the moon reaches its zenith (overhead) entering US waters. 4 21 º 17 º 14 º 11 º then it runs westward, reinforcing the Clearance in the British Virgin Islands can 5 17 º 13 º 11 º 9º westerly current. Then as the moon sets the be had at Great Harbour, (), 6 14 º 11 º 9º 8º tide again starts running to the east, turning West End and Roadtown (Tortola) and Virgin 7 12 º 10 º 8º 7º westwards again about an hour after the Gorda Yacht Harbour. 8 11 º 9º 7º 6º moon passes its nadir (directly underneath), 9 9º 8º 6º 5º see sketch. GENERAL CAUTIONS 10 9º 7º 6º 5º In the eastern Caribbean during the Those anchorages marked with * should not Degrees of set leeway winter months, the wind will vary from east- be entered unless you have Street’s Guide southeast to east-northeast, occasionally (see below) on board as this chart is not It is most important on interisland going all the way around to north. The detailed enough to permit safe entry. passages to allow for the set of the current. current sets generally west at a knot or more. It is also important to read the sailing and Stay to windward of the rhumb line. Take Thus the greatest problem encountered by pilot directions for the area concerned the back bearings until you can see the island the yachtsman new to the area is that of night before, in order to plan the next day's ahead. Then continue to take bearings, stay allowing his boat to sag below the rhumb run, and calculate your departure to windward of the rhumb line. As GPS is now line course. At the end of the day, he guarantee arrival at the next anchorage more prevalent than hand bearing suddenly realises that the anchorage is well whilst the sun is still high. compasses, take GPS readings every half to windward - a hard slog against wind and These are general sailing directions. When hour and plot them on the chart, make sure tide. To avoid this situation keep a hand- approaching harbour, the relevant large- you stay to windward of the rhumb line bearing compass handy and take continual scale chart must be consulted. between your starting point and your bearings; if you cannot see the island ahead, Most of the Eastern Caribbean has been anchorage. take stern bearings. GPS positions should be officially surveyed during the last 50 years All courses given in the text are rhumb recorded hourly. but topography above and below the water lines. It is extremely important to allow for the may well have been altered by natural causes When heading westward, downwind the set of the current, which is made up of the such as volcanic eruptions, sandbank tide is not that important, but heading easterly wind blown equatorial current, movement and coral growth amongst other eastwards especially in the Virgin Islands it is reinforced by the ebb tide or partially (and things. This chart must, therefore, be used very important, playing the tide correctly can occasionally completely) negated by the with caution and prudence. Inshore considerably reduce your sailing time. flood tide. Tides in the Caribbean are navigation should only be undertaken in When proceeding eastwards through the complicated, but here follows a simplified good light when the sun is high. Aids to Virgin Islands it is important to try and figure method of figuring tides that usually works. navigation (buoys, beacons and lights) are the tide and to take advantage of it. It must The tides from Antigua south are semi- notable for their absence and/or be remembered that beating to windward is diurnal (two tides a day) but from Antigua unreliability. slow. If you are tacking in 90° you must sail north, the tides are diurnal, one tide a day, 1.4M for every mile you go to windward, if though if you check very accurate tidal Do not enter strange harbours at night. tacking in 120°, you must sail two miles to gauges you will discover two tides, one TIDES AND CURRENTS get one to windward. major, a second one so small as to be barely Against a 1kn foul tide, doing 5kn noticeable, thus the tide tables refer to it as Heading north or south, the current is on the progress will be agonisingly slow, given a diurnal. beam, setting you off your rhumb line course 1kn fair tide, progress will be made. Study Puerto Rico and the Virgin Islands area is an appreciable amount. When heading the table opposite: further complicated by the fact that on the north or south, the equatorial current is south side of Puerto Rico and St Thomas, setting you to the west. It is negated (and there is one tide a day, while on the north occasionally, with spring tides, eliminated) by side of both islands there are two tides a day; the tidal current. You must remember that east coast of Puerto Rico has two tides a day the flood tide sets to the east, the ebb tide as do Vieques and Culebra. sets to the west. At one part of the year, the highest tide is during the day, at other times of the year the highest tide is during the night. Schomburg, the Danish naturalist, explained that during the equinox, September and October, March and April, the evening tide is the highest, the rest of the year the daytime tide is the highest.

2 WARNING the end of March though very occasionally a good helmsman can sail slightly by the lee ground swells will appear in April. and keep the headsail filled. A useful rig The Caribbean is 0.4m to 0.6m lower in May, For cruising therefore, May is fine: no when heading westward in the Virgins, June, July and early August than it is in hurricanes; no ground swell. June the same, Puerto Rico westwards from Antigua. winter and in these months shoal channels though there is still a risk of hurricanes. July The above is a jury rig that can be done into various harbours should be used with is good but watch out for hurricanes. with the material found on a bare boat. If caution. - Tortola, Manuel Reef you own your own boat do a proper job as marina, Wickhams Cay, Fat Hog/East End Bay, BAHAMIAN MOOR described below. Jolly Harbour Antigua Rodney Bay Marina, On bareboats you will not have a Blue Lagoon - St Vincent, do not have tide Bahamian moor is useful if you are anchored spinnaker pole but it is still possible to sail gauges and require particular care. Yachts where there is a reversing tide that will downwind wing and wing without one. Rig are increasing in size whilst shoal channels overcome the wind when the tide is running a main boom preventer as described above can be used safely in winter, in summer, at eastwards, or anchored off a beach that is and set the preventer up really tight. Then low water springs; there have been incidents exposed to the ground swell. If you are on a take the headsail sheet out of its normal when large yachts have grounded Bahamian moor you will swing in a circle position, rerig it outside of everything, completely blocking the channel for others. that is equal to the length of the boat. through a block you secure on the weather The author has campaigned for many years Once anchored, back down with the quarter thence to a winch. Since the main is for gauges to be introduced to prevent these engine, slacking the anchor line or chain rigged with a tight main boom preventer, incidents. until you have veered (eased) plenty of scope (line) then take a second anchor, carry it back there is no danger of jibing. Put the best HIGH WATER FULL AND CHANGE to the stern, drop it, shorten up on bow helmsman at the helm, sail slightly by the lee anchor until you have the correct amount of and the headsail will fill wing and wing. The time of High Water at each location scope, then take a strain on the anchor you during full and new moons (full & change) have dropped off the stern (but lead the DOWNWIND RIG WITH JIB AND MAIN occurs at a set time after the meridian rode through the bow chock), and secure. This rig is for normal downwind sailing with passage of the moon for each location. Now that you have moored between two the mainsail secured to leeward with a The time of the meridian passage for each anchors there is no danger of swinging preventer on the boom and the jib poled out day can be found in Nautical Almanac , and ashore when the wind dies out at night. to windward. in Compass magazine. Key eg Location X – HW F & C 2h30m (from the 1. Main boom preventer table on the chart) 2. Lee spinnaker pole foreguy Meridian passage at X for Y date is, say, 3. Light line 0200hrs (from Nautical Almanac or Compass 4. Headsail magazine) 5. Lazy sheet for headsail 6. Working headsail sheet Thus HW on Y date will be at 0430hrs. HW Arc of Swing 7. Foreguy will be approximately 50mins later each following day.

METEOROLOGICAL INFORMATION 1 The National Oceanic and Atmospheric BAHAMIAN MOOR

Administration’s National Data Buoy Center 2 3 operate a variety of stations throughout the 2 world. Eight such stations exist in the Eastern Caribbean recording a wide variety of RIG FOR DOWNWIND meteorological information. Much of this Take a spare line (spare sheet or dock line) at data is available to the yachtsman via the least the length of the boat, secure it to the 7 5 NOBC website. Go to end of the main boom, pull it tight and 4 www.ndbc.noaa.gov/Maps/Caribbean and secure the line to the goose neck, coil and 6 click on the station you wish to access. hang up the excess. Once underway and Wind velocities from shore stations in the running downwind, broad off, free it from The working sheet (#6) is run through the Virgin Islands/Puerto rico and the entire the goose neck, take it forward outside all end of the spinnaker pole. If the wind goes eastern Caribbean area give little indication the rigging through a bow chock and secure too far forward for the headsail to be poled of winds expected offshore. The weather it to mooring cleat or anchor windlass. It is to windward, this sheet is eased and the sail buoys to the east of the islands will give a then almost impossible to jibe. Rig the trimmed to leeward with the lazy sheet (#5). good indication of weather and sea headsail to a spinnaker pole of the opposite conditions to be expected in the islands side, sail down wind wing and wing. As the twenty four hours later. Each year The coast schooner skippers would say, Caribbean Compass publishes a list of radio ‘Sailing down wind reading both pages of stations and their schedules that broadcast the book.’ If you do not have a spinnaker weather information of interest to sailors in pole and the preventer is rigged really tight, the Caribbean.

GROUND SWELLS BOW AND STERN MOORING When ground swells are expected on the north coast of Puerto Rico, they are predicted quite accurately on El Oso San Juan, Virgin Island news. Add roughly twenty-four hours for the ground swell predicted to reach the southern end of the Caribbean. On any beach open to the northwest as far south as Antigua, there is the danger of the ground swell, especially if the beach ashore is quite steep and the sand really soft. I strongly advise either a Bahamian moor or moor bow-and-stern when anchoring off it. If the ground swell comes in during the night when on a single anchor it will pivot the boat around in the surf and within a few minutes the boat is driven on shore. Ground swells are completely independent of the Caribbean weather systems; they are generated by storms in the North Atlantic. The season is mid-October to 3 PUERTO RICO TO ST THOMAS CULEBRA TO ST CROIX pass north of it give it a berth of at least 100m. Round No.2 light buoy (Channel Rock) (See A13 and A231) If the wind is in the north and your boat is leave Muhlenfels Point close aboard to close-winded it is possible to sail to St Croix When departing from the marinas in the starboard, then follow the buoys into Long on a close hauled port tack and lay St Croix Fajardo area, or Puerto del Rey marina, on Bay. Puerto Rico’s east coast, stay to the south but without tacking. To Christiansted the course close to the islands and reefs that stretch is 145º mag, 43M but allow 10º for the APPROACHING ST THOMAS FROM THE between San Juan and Culebra to get shelter westerly set of the current. WEST from the Atlantic swell. Then head east or Or if heading to Frederiksted, course is southeast to Culebra to get shelter from the 147º mag, 37M, probably a more Refer to directions Culebra to St Thomas and sea. Once you have departed from Culebra, comfortable course. Vieques to St Thomas. If heading for Christiansted it is essential stand east or southeast until you reach Sail APPROACHING TORTOLA FROM Rock. Then go over to starboard tack and go that you leave at night or early morning in behind St Thomas to get to smooth water. before sunrise, to make sure you arrive off NORTH In daylight, there are no dangers. Stand right Christiansted by 1600. It is important that (See A231) you read the piloting directions to enter over to the St Thomas shore, then short-tack At night slow down and wait for dawn as up the shore through South West Road, Christiansted Harbour well before arrival. If you can not arrive at Christiansted by there are no lights on the north coasts of any staying in smooth water. Pass outside No.3 of the Virgin Islands. In daylight all dangers buoy, proceed through West Gregerie and 1600, ease sheets and anchor north of Frederiksted. The next day will be an easy 4M are easily seen. If approaching around the East Gregerie Channels to the main harbour western end of the island pass east of Green leaving No.2 light buoy to port. If you draw reach to Hams Bluff, then an 8M beat to Christiansted. and Sandy Cays, through Thatch Island Cut, 2.5m or less, you can get through Haulover work you way up into West End. Cut (between Hassel Island and the If heading for Road Town it is best to ‘mainland’). VIEQUES TO ST THOMAS (See A13 and A231) approach Tortola eastabout, passing east of Instead of beating all the way into St Scrub Island and . Bear off and Thomas Harbour, you have two choices of Course 066º mag from Pta Este to run downwind to Road Harbour. quiet anchorage. The best is behind Saba Island, 19M if you work your tide correctly, Island, where you are almost guaranteed to i.e cross on the north-going (ebb) tide . It will APPROACHING THE VIRGIN ISLANDS be alone – except on weekends. (Do not try be a weather-going tide that should lift you FROM THE EAST (See A232) to get into this anchorage if conditions are to Saba, details as above. With an ebb north- not good.) Or you can anchor north of the flowing tide, you will be lucky to lay Savana Use Round Rock Passage. I advise against runway in Brewers/Airport Bay. Island. Necker Island Passage as on the north side It is important to note, when passing the are Herman Reefs and on the south side The end of the airport runway, that there VIEQUES TO ST CROIX Invisibles, both hard to spot. are two small white buoys marking the Approaching the Virgin Islands from the Basically the same directions as Culebra to St. airport approach pattern. You must pass east at night is now no problem, as the street Croix, except the course to Christiansted is west of those buoys or you will be subject to lights on the road over the top of Virgin 133º mag, 39M, while the course to a large fine. Gorda are usually visible 20M out but be Frederiksted is 147º mag 31M. Anchor If approaching St Thomas at night, the careful Pajaros Point light is no longer anywhere off the beach north of safest method is to stay offshore and use the working and apparently will not be replaced. Fredericksted and sail on to Christiansted the main entrance channel, but beating up Further light is very unreliable. next day. outside Saba Island and Dry Rocks puts you APPROACHING THE BRITISH VIRGIN in rough water. The alternative is to get APPROACHING ST THOMAS FROM THE ISLANDS FROM THE SOUTH inshore. Since there is deep water right up to NORTH (See A231) the St Thomas shore, you can tack along the (See A231 and A232) coast, anchor north of the runway in In daylight St Thomas can be approached Not a good idea at night, as both Salt and Brewers/Airport Bay, and wait until dawn to either east or westabout. Westabout, no Ginger Island lights have large obscured enter St Thomas Harbour via the back door. problems, islands north of western end of St sectors so be careful. In daylight the only Working your way up to South West Road, Thomas are high and steep-to, no dangers dangers are Santa Monica Rock and Blond Savana Island is easily spotted because of its round Salt Cay and work your way eastwards Rock, consult the above-mentioned charts. light, but take careful bearings and be sure following directions approaching St Thomas not to get involved with Kalkun Cay, or with from the west. NORTHERN VIRGIN ISLANDS TO If coming eastabout, enter through Saltwater Money Rock in Savana Passage. In ST CROIX this area, you might encounter a strong Middle Passage, east of Thatch Cay, stay in southeast or northwest current. If it is middle of passage as there is a submerged Why sail from the Northern Virgin Islands to running southeast, it will lift you up to rock on the eastern side, then harden up, St Croix? Because it is a glorious reach; a real windward; if it’s going northwest, stay away pass east of No.1 buoy Jumping Rock, then ‘Nantucket sleigh ride’ both to St Croix and from Savana Passage, as it will take you off consult Chart A231. back to the Northern Virgins. Christiansted is into the Atlantic. At night pass westabout St Thomas, take the forgotten jewel of the Caribbean. Once you are safely east of Savana Island, bearings on Savana Island light. Once 38M south of the northern Virgins, St Kalkun Cay, and Saltwater Money Rock, through Savana Passage hug the St Thomas Croix is seldom visited by charter yachts and there are no problems. Just sail close to the shore, steep-to, no dangers. Anchor in is bypassed by most cruising yachts. This is a St Thomas shore, where the water is so deep Brewers Bay for the night, proceed to St mistake. After 55 years sailing the islands of you can practically put your bowsprit ashore. Thomas the next morning. Neither Dry Rocks the eastern Caribbean, I can say without fear There is no danger of running aground. nor Flat Keys are lit, both are all but of contradiction that the three best sails in Keep working your way eastward in smooth impossible to spot at night. the eastern Caribbean are as follows: water until you reach Brewers/Airport Bay. Pigeon Island, St Lucia to Cape Salmon, APPROACHING ST THOMAS FROM THE 26M. CULEBRA TO ST THOMAS SOUTH (See A231) (See plan) Privateer Pt or Salt Pond Ba,y (See A13 and A231) Approaching St Thomas from the south you east end of St Johns, to Christiansted, St A dead beat. Great care must be used until will pick up Frenchman’s Cap. Pass to west, Croix 34M. you are clear of the reefs east of Culebra. It leave Buck Island close aboard to starboard, Buck Island or Tague Bay, St Croix back to is 15M to Saba Island, where a good leave the red entrance buoys to Charlotte either Norman Island passage 34M or to anchorage can be found or 17M to Brewers Amalie harbour to starboard and sail into Charlotte Amalie 38M. Bay. Good in winter but in summer, when the Long Bay. I have visited every waterside village, town trades die down, sewage from St Thomas APPROACHING ST THOMAS FROM THE or city in the Eastern Caribbean and outfall is sometimes carried back into Christiansted is, without doubt, the most Brewers Bay. It is worthwhile to stop at EAST (See A231) (See plan) beautiful. It is the ONLY town in the entire Brewers Bay or Saba as it breaks up the trip Leave all the British Virgin Islands well open Eastern Caribbean that cannot be visited by to St Thomas and gives a pleasant night on the starboard bow, basically head for the cruise ships. before the final beat into Charlotte Amalie. southernmost land you can see. You will pick In 1952 the entire lower end of town was up Frenchman’s Cap, leave it and Buck Island declared a National Heritage Site. The to port. Avoid Packet Rock, marked by an exterior façade of buildings could not be unlit buoy, pass south of the buoy or if you changed, so the wonderful 18th century 4 Danish architecture with covered pavements CHRISTIANSTED HARBOUR (See plan) WEST COAST OF ST CROIX has been preserved. It is also the only town Enter Christiansted Harbour only by day. At This area is seldom visited by yachts, since it in the entire eastern Caribbean that has no night, the lights are confusing and are is dead to leeward of all other anchorages in cruise ships! changed regularly. It is easy to run hard the island and is completely open to the Once in St Croix explore the town; the aground. Head for the heavily overgrown ground swell. Besides, the shelf is small, and entire harbourside is lined by a boardwalk, Fort Louise Augusta, with two small radio the bottom drops off so steeply that it is or wander into town, pick up a tourist masts on the point, on 177° mag. Scotch difficult to find an anchorage. brochure and plan your visit. Rent a car, drive Bank shoal will be to the east, Barracuda the north side road, into the forest to Lawetz Ground and shoals (also called Long Reef) to FREDERICKSTED (S ee plan ) Great House. Do a tour of the house and the west. Don’t forget that various parts of Approaching St Croix from the west, head gardens, then on to Fredericksted, the Scotch Bank are covered by only 0.6m of for Fredericksted and anchor north or south second most beautiful town in the eastern water, and the whole bank is covered with of the commercial dock. Work your way well Caribbean. breaking water in periods of heavy weather. inshore to make sure you are on the shelf. When I visited Frederiksted, fifteen years Rather than sail the turns inside, stand on Anchor north of the pier. On the beach you ago, it was rather run down but this year I in directly to Fort Louise Augusta until No.7 will find a windsurfing school and a few was most impressed as both front and back Fl.G beacon is brought abeam; then bear off beach bar restaurants. streets have been completely restored in to a course of 205º mag, leaving the red-and- keeping with the 18th century Danish green light buoy to starboard. Gradually SOUTH COAST OF ST CROIX architecture. Have lunch, then head back to bear off to the south, following the new Forget it. It was developed for Harvey Christiansted via centre line road, but stop at 5.5m schooner channel. Anchor anywhere Aluminum and Hess Oil, both operations Estate Whim, tour the restored Great House, between Fort Louise Augusta and St Croix now closed down. and the machinery that ran the sugar Marine, remembering that the closer inshore plantation, then on to Christiansted. you are, the smoother your anchorage will PASSAGES FROM ST CROIX TO THE The next day to Buck Island, anchor, no be and the fewer problems you will have mooring buoys, into the dinghy and off to VIRGIN ISLANDS with the north-going current that sometimes the underwater trail. Day trippers do come pours out of Christiansted Harbour. BUCK ISLAND to Buck Island but not in any great numbers Make sure you are out of the channel, as 1 as 30 years ago a number of Buck Island is 4 ⁄2M east of Christiansted and island freighters go chugging in and out at medallions/licences were issued but the thus gives a better sailing angle for all hours of the day and night – and woe numbers have never been increased. Trippers departure back to the Northern Virgin betide anyone anchored in the channel. arrive at about 1100 and depart at 1500 Islands. From Christiansted, sail to Buck If you try to enter this harbour at night, which leaves you with an empty anchorage Island in the morning, explore ashore, which is not advised, you must be certain of for the evening sundowner and early snorkel the underwater trail, enjoy a quiet your range and buoys before proceeding. morning peace. There are seldom more than sundowner (the day trippers all depart at Innumerable yachts have mistaken the lights three or four charter boats at Buck Island. about 1600), a quiet night then depart the and come to grief on Barracuda Ground and There are new National Park restrictions. next morning to the Northern Virgins. Round Reef. Don’t enter the harbour until Visiting yachts are required to obtain an Visiting yachts must obtain a permit to you have picked up and positively identified anchoring permit before going to Buck visit Buck island. These are available from the the leading lights. Come in on a range of Island. Go to the National Park office in Fort National Park Service visitor centre contact 177º mag and hold that range until you are Christian, the big yellow building on station at Christiansted. Officially permits abeam of No.7 Fl.G beacon, then bear off Christiansted waterfront to obtain the take 3 to 5 working days to be issued. and follow the buoyed SCHOONER channel. permit. However, if you point out that your stay in St Once inside the harbour, round up and If obtaining the permit is too difficult, go Croix is only three days you will, with luck, anchor. Wait until dawn to proceed further. enjoy Tague Bay (page 151/153). Work your have the permit issued in one day. There is now usually room to anchor on way all the way east to Cane Garden Bay and If you have been unable to obtain a Welcome Bank, but be warned that when it you will be guaranteed a fantastic permit to spend the night at Buck Island, and blows hard, the sea breaks on the reef and anchorage with no other boats. have enjoyed Tague Bay instead, leave the flows over into the harbour. The water then western end of Tague Bay, stand north ST THOMAS TO ST CROIX (WP2–WP10) pours out through the channel, sometimes towards the western end of Buck Island, plug attaining a speed of two to three knots in the WP of your departure point west of Course 169º mag, 33M. Usually a close reach making you tide rode on Welcome Bank. Buck Island, then the WP for your desired unless the wind goes to the south. Anchor as close to shore as possible to avoid landfall. This will give you course and Warning When approaching Christiansted, the north-going current that pours out of distance. Allow about 10º for leeway and do not head for the town as the entrance Christiansted Harbour in periods of heavy take off, or of course, you can lay the course channel is well to its east, rather head for the weather. This current is so strong that in 1993 off on the chart and figure out course and distinctive notch (see horizontal profile on Iolaire, with her mizzen up despite the fact distance. chart) east of town. For final approach see that it was blowing 35kn, was still tide rode notes on Christiansted Harbour below. rather than weather cocking into the wind. ST CROIX, CHRISTIANSTED When in St Croix Buck Island and Tague Bay PILLSBURY SOUND TO ST CROIX All the following departures are from should be visited, see detailed Chart A234 Christiansted: (WP3–WP10) and Street’s Guide Puerto Rico, Spanish, US CHRISTIANSTED TO BVI VIA Course 184º mag, 30M. A slightly better and British Virgin Islands pages 150/154. angle, shorter distance, other information as Unless you have a very shoal-draught boat FLANAGAN PASSAGE (WP10–WP4) above. – 1.5m or less – do not try to anchor west of Course 019º mag, 30M. Nice reach if there is Protestant Cay. The area is completely filled any south in the wind, close fetch if wind is FLANAGAN PASSAGE TO ST CROIX with local boats on permanent moorings, in the east, if north of east pick a landfall (WP4–WP10) and there is no room for visiting yachts. If further west. Approaching Norman Island, you do draw less than 1.5m, you can run care must be taken to miss Santa Monica The best route as the course is 199º mag, down behind Protestant Cay, staying very Rock. It is right on the course line. always a nice reach, distance only 30M, but close to shore, round up, and anchor behind care must be taken at the start of the (i.e to the west of) the anchored fleet. Be CHRISTIANSTED TO PILLSBURY SOUND passage so as not to hit Santa Monica Rock sure to use a Bahamian moor, as sometimes (WP10–WP3) which is on the direct line from Privateer the current will run to the east 24 hours a Course 002º mag, 30M, same as above but Point to Christiansted, St Croix. See Chart day; at other times, it will run to the east at great care must be taken as you enter A231 for ranges to avoid Santa Monica rock. each change of tide and swing you around Pillsbury Sound as there are a number of Once past the rock it is a glorious reach, your anchor twice a day. hazardous rocks. other information as above. Daylight dinghy theft is becoming a problem in Christiansted. When tying a CHRISTIANSTED TO ST THOMAS ROUND ROCK PASSAGE TO ST CROIX dinghy to the walkway in town, be sure to (WP10–WP2) (WP5–WP10) lock it up. Course 349º mag, 33M. Unless you are very Course 215ºmag, 39M unlucky it will be a glorious reach. No dangers on approach, everything well buoyed.

5 Charlotte Amalie, St Thomas, is the main deepest – deep enough for any yacht. The Great St James Island. The next morning, you town of the US Virgin Islands, and in the past high hill to the east of the passage blocks the can sail through St James Cut between Little was the main yachting centre of the entire wind, so it is quite possible that you will have St James and Great St James and head east Virgin Islands. However, in recent years, to turn on the engine if you have a foul tide. toward the numerous wonderful anchorages yachting and especially charter yachting has The western passage is shoal, but evidently on the south coast of St John, where you can vacated the town and port, leaving marinas the controlling depth is 2.4m, as I have sailed spend a couple of quiet, easy days in at Crown Bay and Long Bay, numerous places Iolaire (2.2m) through this pass for 38 years uncrowded coves. to anchor, hauling facilities at Crown Bay and and have never touched. On the western side If you decide that you want to sail directly a fairly good infrastructure to support the of Current Rock, you do not lose your wind, up the south coast of St John and on to the yachting community. As soon as you arrive but you must be careful, since there is no British Virgins, short-tack inshore and stay and clear in, obtain a copy of the St Thomas room to tack. out of the sea and current. However, once Marine Guide to ascertain what services are When using the western pass, remember you have cleared Ram Head on St John’s available. that the axis of the tide through this pass is southeast coast and are standing over to Sir northeast-southwest. If there is a foul tide Francis Drake Channel, be especially alert to CHRISTIANSTED TO ROUND ROCK and the wind is well north of east, do not avoid going up on Eagle Shoal. PASSAGE (WP10–WP5) attempt this passage, because a strong When proceeding eastward to the Sir Course 035º mag, 39M. weather bow tide will sweep you toward the Francis Drake Channel, the most logical route rocks on the lee side. However, if you are appears to be through the Narrows, but I US AND BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS able to head northeast or east of northeast, have never beaten to windward through the (See A231 and A232) you have nothing to fear, even with a foul Narrows. I have always followed the advice tide, since you will be able to lee-bow the given in my 1867 Norie and Wilson Sailing The Virgin Islands stretch out eastward from tide. Under these conditions, even if you are Directions to the when wind and St Thomas, making a cruise through them a not quite laying the passage, a quick luff will tide were important to a mariner, which dead beat to windward. But this is not a present your lee bow to the tide, and it will describes a much better method of getting difficult beat, since the islands are close push you to the weather side of the channel. into Sir Francis Drake Channel. When clearing together and, although the wind may blow A fair tide makes this passage simple. The Windward Passage, stand north and pass hard, you’ll have to contend with nothing tide is so strong that, once you are in the north of . Then stand out into more than a large chop. You can easily spend pass, it will carry you through, no matter the sound between Jost van Dyke and Great a pleasant week to ten days cruising the what the wind. Thatch or Tortola. Tack to fetch the western Virgins. Once through Current Hole, continue on end of Tortola. Pass the rocks on the western When departing from St Thomas and starboard tack across Pillsbury Sound, but be end of Tortola close aboard, then stand over proceeding eastward, follow the buoyed sure to clear Cabrita Point with room to to the Island shore. Do not tack channel. While sailing along the shore spare. Off Cabrita Point is Jumping Rock, until the very last minute. With luck, if you toward Muhlenfels Point, you will have a which, fortunately, is now marked by a buoy, get one good lift, you will weather Little good chance to tie in a reef. The high hills because a number of boats have come to Thatch and pass on into Sir Francis Drake block the wind and, once clear of the point, grief on it. (If for some reason the buoy is not Channel. At worst, you will need only two you will feel the full force of the trades and there, give Cabrita Point a wide berth.) The quick tacks to clear the eastern end of Little their attendant swell. If you have a vessel high hills of St John produce radical wind Thatch. This will save making ten or fifteen that draws less than 2.5m and don’t mind shifts, especially when the wind is south of tacks in The Narrows, and, if the tide is foul, tacking or are proceeding under power, you east. it will save hours. can pass inside the triangular area off Always stand across Pillsbury Sound on Once you are clear of Little Thatch, stand Muhlenfels Point. Beat to windward along starboard tack until you are east of Steven over to the St John shore and tack only at the Morningstar Bay, past the low house with a Cay, because the tide creates a swell from the last minute. Your next tack should allow you large white roof on the edge of a low cliff, south between Steven Cay and Great St to weather Frenchman’s Cay, and now, if you and stay close aboard the western shore of James. If you tack to the south, you will have work your way along the Tortola shore, you . This will not necessarily save you this sea dead on your nose. It is so short and will be out of the worst of the tide. The time, but it will keep you out of the sea for so steep that you will make no progress. In remainder of Sir Francis Drake Channel is the first few miles of beating to windward. the old days, this area was known as The straightforward, except that you should Once you have tacked far enough offshore Graveyard – probably a reference to the avoid the southeastern tip of Beef Island. to clear Green Cay, it usually is best to tack number of overloaded Tortola sloops that There is a tide rip, and the high cliffs create back in towards shore. Work your way along met their end here. In more recent times, the a back eddy and disturb the flow of wind. shore in short tacks, and you will avoid most area has swallowed a number of dinghies Proceeding eastwards up the north coast of the ocean swell. being trailed astern. As you cross Pillsbury of Tortola, stay inshore to stay out of the Be careful, however, of two dangers. Sound between Steven Cay and Great St swell and to avoid the current. There is deep There is a 2·1m spot 800m east of Green Cay James, check your tide; in this area, it runs water right up to shore, no dangers until you that is on the direct line from the south end north-west-southeast, which is at right reach . of Green Cay to Long Point. The other angles to your course. By adjusting your While sailing along the north shore you hazard is Packet Rock, which is very course to compensate for this tide, you will will see some magnificent beaches. dangerous, since it has only 1.5m of save considerably in distance sailed. Lay your When the wind is in the south, the ground water over it. Despite the fact that a red course for the northern end of Steven Cay. swell is not running, so you should be able buoy marks the rock, it is difficult to spot, When you pass the end of Steven Cay, to find a daytime anchorage off the because the buoy is usually about 40m either harden up for Cruz Bay or continue beautiful sand beaches on the north side of southeast of it. eastward without easing sheets, because you Tortola. When we sailed along this coast in Stand inshore on a starboard tack toward probably will be headed in the late March 1993, the wind was out of the the western shore of Long Point. Tack neighbourhood of Lind Point. As you reach south, there was no ground swell, and it was offshore and continue offshore until you are Caneel Bay, the wind usually becomes more a perfect time to anchor off these almost sure you can lay Cas Cay and Jersey Bay. Do northerly, heading you. The passes between completely deserted beaches. There is some not cut it close, because if you have to tack, Lovango Cay and Hawksnest Point have habitation on these beaches, but absolutely there is always a bad sea in this area. This is strong tides, so be watchful. I prefer to use no development. Just remember, however, no place to be caught in stays with a dead the pass between Hawksnest Point and the ground-swell warning. lee shore. Durloe Cays. By hugging the shore, you may Proceeding eastward from Brewers Bay Directly east of Cas Cay is a 2.1m spot that be able to find a back eddy that will give you along the north coast of Tortola, there are will bother only larger boats. Once clear of a fair current even though the tide is against no dangers; the shoreline is all steep-to. Cas Cay, stand into Jersey Bay until you can you. The water appears to be smoother on During periods when the ground swell is stick your bowsprit ashore. On the next tack, the St John side of the channel. running, it is rather spectacular, as the sea you may be able to weather Cow and Calf The only danger in this area is Johnson hits the cliffs and the spray sometimes rises Rocks. If so, continue on until you can lay Reef, easily spotted since it usually is 30m in the air – truly magnificent. Current Hole, then tack. If you can’t weather breaking and there are buoys off its north It’s no problem to pass through Guana Cow and Calf, tack back inshore rather than and south ends. There is plenty of room to Channel. You can beat through there with continuing to seaward, since you will find tack between Johnson Reef and Trunk Bay if no difficulty, as there is deep water up to calm water in behind Great St James Island. you apply normal caution. shore on both sides. However, as you When passing through Current Hole, you Another method of working your way approach Little Camanoe and the Long Bay can pass either east or west of Current Rock. eastward from St Thomas is to stop for the area, you must be extremely careful, as many The eastern passage is the widest and night at Christmas Cove, on the west side of boats have bounced off the rocks here, and

6 a few have been lost. At times, this area has The channel into Wickhams Cay has been navigation. This course passes close aboard been privately buoyed by the bareboat dredged to 4.6m. To avoid a 2·7m shoal spot Sail Rock, and passes over the northern end companies, but the buoys are very in the middle of the channel, inner end, of Bajo Grampus, least depth 5.5m, which unreliable. If you keep your wits about you, boats should favour the NE side of the will not bother normal yachts but DEEP you should have no problems. channel when entering or leaving. Boats DRAUGHT YACHTS BEWARE. See the Trellis Bay section, below, for heading to or from Wickhams Cay should not This course will usually be dead downwind information on the hazards in this area. Also, cut the SW corner of the channel. Depths in so rig for downwind, main boom preventer do not try to sail between Great and Little the harbour will vary. Deep draft boats as note on this chart. Camanoe, as flukey winds funnel between should proceed dead slow as the bottom is the islands. mostly soft mud, so if going slow ‘parking’ CHRISTIANSTED ST CROIX TO WARNING will cause no damage and you should be CULEBRA able to back off and try again. Course 325º mag, 43M, (WP10–WP1) then as There are two dangers in this area. There is Works are currently in progress at the a middle ground, with 1m of water over it, above. Start early to make sure you arrive at cruise ship dock to construct a new terminal, Ensenada Honda before 1530 as the two-thirds of the distance between the shops and restaurants. The cruise ship jetty is southwest tip of Island and entrance to the harbour is on a northwest, being widened and extended. Both north southeast axis. After 1530 the sun will be low the rock pile that is visible on the Beef Island and south of the jetty is due to be dredged. shore at the eastern end of Long Bay. Since in the west making eyeball navigation this middle ground is hard to spot, hug the BEEF ISLAND (See A231 and A232) impossible. northern side of the channel and you will clear it. The second danger is a rock 100m Connected to the mainland by bridge, the SPANISH VIRGIN ISLANDS northeast of the westernmost arm of Trellis passage between Beef Island and Tortola is Read pages 79 to 90 and you will realise that Bay. Again, use the north side of the channel for small boats only, see Street’s Guide for there are a full two dozen uncrowded and you will be safe. directions. There is an airport on Beef Island, anchorage in the Spanish Virgins. anchorages can be found in Trellis and Bluff Two words of warning, Isla de Culibrita - ROAD HARBOUR (S ee plan ) Bays only. the northern bay is fantastic as long as the From Beef Island/ area to I strongly advise against entering Road northwest ground swell is not running Virgin Gorda, the Baths or Virgin Gorda (November to late-April). If spending the Harbour at night, as range lights may or may Yacht Harbour, it is just a case of beating to not be working. Even anchoring on the night anchor bow and stern in case the windward, but I would tend to stay south of ground swell comes in during the night. southwest corner of the harbour can be the line between Beef Island and Colison difficult, as far too many yachts anchor in this Bahia de Almodavar is a fantastic Point as there might be less sea. anchorage, seldom more than one or two area without anchor lights. Be sure not to If heading on to Gorda Sound get over to anchor in the 20 metre hole northeast of boats except at weekends. On Friday Virgin Gorda south of Colison Point then afternoon the Puerto Rican powerboats start Road Reef. Not only would you then need stand north avoiding the rocks off Colison tons of line, but the edges of the hole are arriving. They will arrive in large numbers Point. Then short tack along the Virgin and party all night. This is the time to go to full of sharp rocks that will cut through Gorda shore to stay out of the current and anchor line in very short time. a marina as there will be plenty of empty swell, but be careful of the reefs off Little slips on weekends, and shop, restock the In daylight, stand out into the harbour Dix, Savana Bay and Tetor Bay. and then decide which anchorage you want. boat, do laundry enjoy showers with Once Mountain Point is reached tack to unlimited water. If anchoring off town, run in on 303º mag the eastward getting shelter from Mosquito and anchor 100m off the customs dock but Island. QUIET ANCHORAGES NORTHERN not in the fairway. Do not under any Gorda Sound can be entered by the VIRGIN ISLANDS circumstances go alongside the dock. You are passage between and Virgin bound to suffer damage from the surge or There are also brief descriptions of these Gorda, in ideal conditions, no northerly anchorages in the sailing directions with from the ferries and freighters. Further, it is swell, and boats drawing 2m or less, or by not advisable even to take a dinghy Charts A231 and A232: Saba Island (page the main entrance west of Mosquito Island. 117), St Thomas, Airport Bay/Brewers Bay alongside that dock, since the swell will bang Read the sailing directions on chart A232 it to pieces. (page 109), note no longer sewage problem very carefully before using either of these when wind goes SW as St Thomas now has a If you are headed to the area, passages. don’t be misled by the fact that a couple of state of the art sewage treatment plant. Bare Proceeding from Virgin Gorda to Ass Bay, Great St James (page 118), Little St boats are moored right on top of the shoal also consult chart A232. spot there – they are multihulls and shoal- James (page 118), St Johns, outside the If you are beginning your cruise in St National Park so no mooring balls, Haulover draught boats. A few boats drawing 1.5m Thomas and do not want to go to St Croix are moored on the eastern edge of this and Newfound Bays (pages 130/131), St instead of spending the majority of your Thomas summer only, Mermaids Chair, West shoal. As long as you do not stray west of time beating to windward thru the Virgins, 188º mag on the Fort Burt Hotel, you will be Cay, Sandy, Botany, Stumpy, Santa Maria, take the easy route west to the Spanish Hull, Magens Bays (pages 110/112) able to avoid the shoal. Virgins. They are wonderful. In the Spanish For yachts wishing to sail in and out of Virgins time has passed very slowly. Ashore Road Town, the anchorage under the Fort BRITISH VIRGINS ISLANDS they are like the British Virgin islands in the Tortola: Buck Island, (page 178), Brandywine Burt Hotel is by far the best. Northeast from late 60s early 70s or the US Virgins of the late the sandspit, under Fort Burt, the bottom Bay (page 175). (page 50s early 60s. Afloat there are at least two 187), Green Cay 188, South Coast of Peter drops off steeply into a hole. If you hit the dozen anchorages where there are no hole, be prepared for anchoring in 20m of Island South Sprat Bay (page 193). mooring balls, no other boats, just peace and Also on the south side of are water. Make sure you have a minimum of 8m solitude. of chain on your anchor (if you don’t, shackle South, White, Whelk Bays, and Key Point two lengths of chain together), since the COURSE WESTWARD FROM VIRGINS anchorage (page 193). Norman Island Privateer Bay (page 189), Money Bay (page bottom is coral, mud and sharp rocks. TO SPANISH VIRGINS – VIRGIN Notice, too, that even though there is 191) and for the brave and skillful who will 2·7m of water 60m off the dock of the old ISLANDS TO SPANISH VIRGINS AND put a crew member in the rigging Windward Moorings Marina, there is only 1·4m PUERTO RICO. Sound (page 191). alongside. The Fort Burt Marina, has a bare When heading westwards from St Thomas, Beef Island, Bluff Bay (page 182), is one of 2m of water alongside the outer dock; it first stop should be Ensenada Honda on the Street family’s favourite anchorages, shoals rapidly at the inner slips. Culebra to clear Puerto Rican customs. All visited often by Iolaire and L’ll Iolaire . To With care you can get 2m of draught boats must do this. Foreign yachts should really get away from it all, Tobago Island inside the Road Reef Marina, Careening obtain a cruising permit which will simplify (page 189) Salt Island, The Sound (page 194), Cove. their paper work while cruising in Puerto again only for the brave with a crew member If you prefer to moor in the Wickhams Cay Rican and continental US waters. in the rigging. , south end area at Village Cay Marina or The Moorings behind Monkey Point (page 189) and A232. Marina, stand north into the harbour, ST THOMAS TO CULEBRA Virgin Gorda, South Sound (pages 207/208), Eustatia Sound (pages 206/207). leaving Spit buoy to port. Then swing to a Course 274° mag 15M to WP1. It is The channel between Bitter End and Saba course of due north passing the dolphin recommended that boats leave St Thomas Rock is now buoyed, depth reportedly 2.1m. marking the end of the cruise ship dock until and spend the night in the anchorage off There is another channel also buoyed you spot the buoys marking the channel. Saba Island. Then switch to chart A131, head through the reef on the north side of Now run on 303º mag into the inner basin of north into Ensenada Honda, eyeball the harbour north of Wickhams Cay. 7 Eustatia Sound at the eastern end off Oil Nut Bay. It is also reportedly 2.1m but the sea conditions are usually such that this channel is unusable. Anegada west of Pamato Point off the hotel (page 212), and in summer when there are no ground swells anywhere between Pamato and Raffling Points, (page 212), eyeball navigation needed.

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