Diplomatic Security special agents arrive via ferry in the British to con- duct a passport fraud investigation.

San Juan Noche SMALL OFFICE PLAYS A BIG LAW ENFORCEMENT ROLE BY CHRISTOPHER TREMANN

he smallest of the Greater officer in 1952 in a foiled attempt to assassi- weeks. Even as late as last December, anti- , is an island nate President Truman. American graffiti could be seen scrawled on of contrasts and incredible In 1999, protests over the U.S. military highway ramps and the sides of buildings. beauty. It is a territory of the presence in Puerto Rico came to a head The only permanent Department of , so a tour there is when a civilian guard was killed on the State representation on the island is the San consideredT a domestic assignment. But with island of Vieques, to the east of Puerto Rico. Juan Resident Office, which reports to the its different language and culture, it can be Vieques, two-thirds of which was owned by Bureau of Diplomatic Security’s Miami an exciting, rewarding and culturally the U.S., was used by the Navy as a live- Field Office. It has both Foreign Service enriching experience. weapons testing ground. The protests and Civil Service positions: an FS resident While most Puerto Ricans are proud of received international attention, and in agent in charge, three FS special agents and their U.S. citizenship, a small but vocal 2003 the Navy left Puerto Rico and Vieques. a CS investigative assistant. The office is minority has advocated complete inde- In September 2005, agents from the expanding to include two Puerto Rico pendence. Terrorist organizations mounted Department of Justice attempted to arrest police officers as part of the Identity Fraud attacks against military, federal and law Filiberto Ojeda Ríos, a former independ- Task Force. enforcement personnel throughout the ence leader on the run for nearly two The SJRO conducts passport and visa 1950s and 60s. In the most famous attack, decades. He was killed in a shootout after fraud investigations and coordinates with two Puerto Rican nationalists killed a U.S. shooting two federal agents. Puerto Ricans foreign consulates in Puerto Rico and the

Secret Service Uniformed Division police took to the streets in protest for many U.S. Virgin Islands. The office works closely PHOTOGRAPHS: SAN JUAN RESIDENT OFFICE

32 STATEMAGAZINE FEBRUARY 2007 Above: Puerto Rican police maintain vigilance in historic downtown Old San Juan. Upper right: A cruise ship docks in Old San Juan. Many cruises start and end in Puerto Rico. Lower right: Resident Agent in Charge Christopher Tremann and Acting Director of the Police of Puerto Rico Ismael Morales García conduct a press conference concerning the arrest of a fugitive and the creation of the Identity Fraud Task Force. with the assistant regional security office Although it is possible to enjoy a tour in United States. In that area are the Caves of investigators in embassies in the region, and Puerto Rico without Spanish, many local Camuy, a beautiful and immense series of has jointly worked investigations in the government contacts do not speak English, caverns carved out of limestone by under- and on St. Maarten, so speaking Spanish makes it far easier to ground rivers, and the Arecibo Observatory, Netherlands Antilles. The office also assists take advantage of Puerto Ricans’ legendary the largest radio telescope in the world, the Office of Foreign Missions in Miami to hospitality. The Department recently made famous by such movies as Contact ensure that foreign consulates comply with approved positions in Puerto Rico to be and Goldeneye. the Vienna Convention and U.S. law. language-designated. The eastern side of Puerto Rico is the Arguably one of the busiest domestic Though only 100 miles by 36 miles, sailing capital. From the town of Fajardo, offices in DS, the SJRO created the first task Puerto Rico packs a lot of punch for its size. one can easily sail to Culebra, the jewel of force headed by the bureau on visa and Most of the island is very safe for tourists the Spanish Virgin Islands, or continue east- passport fraud. It has hosted conferences on and residents. The cultural, economic and ward to the U.S. Virgin Islands. Located in the dangers of identity theft in Puerto Rico governmental center is San Juan. With a the mountains in the center of the island is and Overseas Security Advisory Council population of more than 1 million, San National Park, the only tropical meetings for U.S. businesses located in the Juan has museums, casinos and theaters, as forest in the U.S. National Park System. U.S. Virgin Islands and Puerto Rico. well as colonial architecture and history in Puerto Rico has numerous cultural In addition, SJRO agents have conducted Viejo San Juan, the original Spanish capital. events. On Noche de San Juan (San Juan protective details for dozens of foreign dig- With its vibrant nightlife, narrow cobble- Night), locals light bonfires on the beach nitaries traveling through the international stone streets and ancient forts, Viejo San and party until midnight, when they walk airport in San Juan, dealt with hundreds of Juan transports visitors to another era. backward into the ocean 12 times to sym- leads for passport fraud investigations and San Juan is a top cruise ship destination bolize good luck and starting life afresh. conducted searches, arrests and seizures. and tourists regularly flood the streets For DS agents, a tour in Puerto Rico During the past two years, agents were during the high season, shopping or simply offers the opportunity for challenging and involved in more than 100 arrests. relaxing in an outdoor café with a mojito or rewarding work in a stunning and diverse The office attracts singles and families. piña colada. Isla Verde, beyond Viejo San area. Whether Puerto Rico votes to become Singles and couples enjoy the nightlife, Juan, is lined with high-end hotels and a state, remain a territory or become an numerous events and variety of outdoor casinos, and the beaches are full of friendly independent nation, a tour here can be activities available. Families can send their locals and tourists from all over. exciting, enjoyable and career-enhancing. I children to the English-speaking school run The western side of Puerto Rico, by the Department of Defense at Ft. anchored by the city of Mayagüez, is home The author is the resident agent in charge of Buchanan at State Department expense. to some of the best surfing anywhere in the the San Juan Resident Office.

FEBRUARY 2007 STATEMAGAZINE 33