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EDITION 18 AUTUMN 2002 REFLUX I’m still struggling with the prices for these expensive bottles. Inevitably we get asked if a hefty purchase will appre- ciate in value. Our not being a member of any financial regulatory authority doesn’t deter the question or our best attempts to answer, but it is difficult and dangerous, hindsight being what it is. This is an old rant but one that increas- ingly concerns me. I am convinced that the market for new bottlings costing over £ 200 is static while the availability con- tinues to grow. Our ‘deals’ page features heavily discounted Glenmorangie, Glen Moray and now Highland Park 1958 at £300 off the recommended price of £990. While it is a delight to offer these prices, those who paid the full price can justifi- ably feel a tad pissed-off. The Glen- morangie was initially an internet ex- clusive at £169 and at that time was H R H — A LOCH FYNE MAN bought enthusiastically by collectors HRH The Prince of Wales joined our appreciative audience when he was presented loyal to the brand, yet for two years we with a special bottle of The Loch Fyne by Jimmy Wilson MM and Major Jake have been offering the unsold stock for Hogg, members of the Lothian Parachute Regimental Association who are great £74 less.So much for any future loyalty. advocates of our award-winning blend. Now I hear of Ladyburn ’73 being sold in the US at a third of its asking price— SYMINGTON BUYS FARMERS THREATEN THE 3,500 bottles retailing at £390. That was predicted. & END OF ‘GENUINE SCOTCH’ Fortunately I don’t have to comment on A mass protest of Scottish farmers took the 36 new Macallan bottlings (up to WHITE-WATER CENTRE place outside industry leader ’s £4,000) as I have been excluded from At the end of July, Andrew Symington (UD) Edinburgh headquarters recently. selling them. Despite giving six days as of Signatory Vintage cel- The farmers’ union is staging protests part of the think tank that guided their ebrated the acquisition of Edradour Dis- against a variety of industries to high- creation—but that’s a personal gripe and tillery from Campbell Distillers, a sub- light their plight. They threatened that yes, they were part of the group that sidiary of . Two weeks unless barley prices improved they made me a Keeper of the Quaich. later he may have wished he had not. would be forced to grow other crops or Too many still calculate that if one chap Exceptional rainfall caused severe flood- to set aside land. This, they argued, un- pays a thousand quid at auction for an ing in the area and Edradour dermined the validity of Scotch being old bottle then they can sell 600 similar Distillery and Visitor attraction was truly Scottish. bottles at that price. Yet when these damaged by flood water. “This is very bizarre,” a Diageo spokes- ‘£grand’ bottlings come up for auction “It could have been worse,”said a re- man told SWR (well, Peter Smith actu- they rarely achieve even the retail price! lieved Symington. “Another six inches ally). “We buy almost all our barley and So what advice do I have for you, the and the distillery buildings would have wheat from , with contracts, but consumer? Well, if you’re a collector don’t been affected. The river rose and carried the price is determined by the world mar- worry—buy what appeals (but beware a huge tree down it, demolishing the ket and the harvest. Besides, we’re un- of ancient bottles, these days it’s very banks and damaging the bridges; and ion members too as we own nine farms!” easy to create authentic looking bottles the car park was washed away. Thank- The police attending put the numbers and flog them for £grand prices!), but if fully we were only closed for three days protesting at 110, the farmers claimed you’re an investor, hedge your bets and and I’m delighted to have survived my 250; presumably some confusion about keep each under £200 or so. baptism of water!” the number of legs involved.

SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW—Loch Fyne , Inveraray, Argyll, PA32 8UD. www.LFW.co.uk PAGE 1 colour developed until the sixth case In some cases justifiably so. I bottle THE LAIRD OF when the hue that I was expecting fi- malts at a different age from those done nally appeared. I was horrified to dis- by the brand owner—but that is getting EDRADOUR cover some was being ‘lost’ in the pipes harder to do as they are extending their and filters and I realised that some of range to more and more expressions. I’ve what I was selling could have been stuck rigidly to that principle but some cheapo supermarket blend or worse! I of the ‘armchair bottlers’—those with no wasn’t happy that I couldn’t claim hand facilities beyond a telephone—have been on heart this was a great product. I mimicking the proprietors, sticking dis- wanted complete control myself. tillery names in big letters on labels with I reckoned that the only way for me to no respect for the trademark owners. get round that was for me to have my There are quality issues on some of these own bonded warehouse with bottling products too, giving the distillers some- facility and stock of casks which I could thing to be very concerned about. monitor myself. It’s getting harder for the independents; LFW: And the name, Signatory? anyone lucky enough to get any new With Signatory I thought that someone will have restraints on them. would endorse it as being something Glenmorangie has never sold a cask of worth bottling but I gave up because we single malt; they add a tiny measure of started selling long before we found any- Glen Moray and call it ‘Westport’ so Andrew Symington was in very one famous to sign a bottle! (I almost got ‘Glenmorangie’ cannot be found in the cheerful form when we met for our Sean Connery once). Vintage, well, some market. do the same with interview feature. producers complained you can’t have a ‘Wardhead’ and more are going to do it; LFW: What is your job? vintage whisky, but now they all have are just starting to do it now. I am founder and Managing Director of one. When I got my cask of Glenlivet 1968 It will take about five to ten years to use Signatory Vintage Scotch Whisky. My I realised that I wouldn’t always have a up stocks in circulation from the late ’80s business is that of an independent bot- ’68 but I would get some ’70 or whatever then it will get very hard for a bottler. tler buying and maturing casks of and also to find a point of difference. I’m also gathering casks from distiller- whisky and then selecting them for bot- Unlike port, with whisky each year is ies which are closed and so have no tling with our own label. I keep about just as good as the others but it does brand interest but that is getting harder 1,100 casks in stock with ages from three depend on the quality of cask it went too. In the last four years there has been or four years to as old as 1954. into. Vintage as a term helps explain an explosion of new bottlers or as I like Recently I acquired Scotland’s smallest differences in bottlings. to call them ‘armchair labellers’. Some distillery, Edradour in Perthshire. I am We’ve been here in Leith since 1992 with are already disappearing having real- now both a Scotch whisky bottler and offices, bottling plant and cased goods ised there is no quick buck to be made. distiller—an ambition fulfilled! warehouse, plus about 130 casks—pri- The big boys deal direct, leaving out the I started Signatory fourteen years ago marily things that are going to be bot- broker or merchant. It’s in a smaller with the ambition of having my own dis- tled in the next month and the more number of hands and if you don’t have tillery. Now the transfer is complete I venerable gems that I like to keep an the connections then it is going to get am a very happy chappie—despite my eye on and sample every three to six very difficult. immediate baptism of fire; after just two months, rare treasures from the Fifties With time, I began to get a reputation weeks of possession of Edradour a huge and Sixties. for bottling quality whiskies from good thunderstorm caused a flash flood which The other 1,000 casks are scattered casks and that’s what made me accepted, caused about £300,000 worth of damage! around Scotland in about 37 different that and the investment in a bottling LFW: How did you become a bottler? distilleries and warehouses. If I buy a line and the commitment to the indus- I became involved in this industry dur- cask that I don’t need immediately I’ll try. I showed I wasn’t after a quick buck, ing my time as a Manager at the posh leave it where it is, paying rent to have buying the odd cask here and there. Prestonfield House Hotel in Edinburgh it stored. The rental is small if you have Once people realised I wanted to buy my where many of the old whisky compa- 100 casks or so with a keeper but there own distillery, I was taken a lot more nies used to entertain VIPs and they are set-up charges to keep out the small seriously. I’ve much more credibility now usually brought along interesting sam- players and to reduce the risk of ‘inves- I’ve joined the circle. Although I’m the ples. I was able to taste a lot of fine tor’ scams such as we saw in the early smallest player, it’s great fun. Edradour cask matured malts and to take Nineties. is the perfect size for Signatory, the two some of them home. Once a week we have a ‘milk-round’, a can fit hand in hand. I was so enthusiastic that in 1988 I truck collecting a cask from all over and LFW: Describe the bottling process. scraped together £2,500 to buy a cask of bringing it to Edinburgh. A cask will be pumped in to a vat at 1968 Glenlivet and arranged to bottle it. LFW: How do you get to buy a cask? which time we assess the strength. If My good friend, Peter Russell of McLeods Distilleries have always sold to anyone. required it will be reduced to bottling helped me by securing the cask and as- Initially they sold to merchants who strength of 43 or 46% with de-mineral- sisting in the bottling and duty consid- wanted it for blending; there were very ised water and allowed a day or two to erations. Then I set about selling it, ini- little single malt sales. A pub in Scot- settle. Reactions between whisky and tially to friends. A few restaurants took land may have had casks of Glenlivet water are slow; fatty acids convert into a case, then I went to a World Food & and Macallan in the cellar and jars to esters and aldehydes and there is a lot Drink Exhibition in Europe and met a dispense from. It is that historical prec- of heat generated. If we are doing a lot German and Italian company which was edent that makes it possible today. Pro- of single casks and I can’t afford for a interested and bought the rest of the ducers own many malts and the move- vat to be tied up we will put it back into cask. One cask became two and then ment between distillers, merchants and a holding butt for a week and return to onwards. brokers means I can buy Glenwhatever it when ready. That marrying time As I got busier and was using a Glas- from either a big distiller or merchant makes a big difference. Single malt is a gow bottling contractor, I realised that like Berry Brothers, especially if they very delicate substance and we will not the first few cases to come off my nice have surplus stocks of certain ages. push it through our system at full speed, dark sherry cask were quite pale! The LFW: Does it upset the marketers? it agitates the spirit to push it fast.

PAGE 2 SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW—Loch Fyne Whiskies, Inveraray, Argyll, PA32 8UD. www.LFW.co.uk If bottled at 43% we will chillfilter it you will be meeting the same people! Too pot calling the kettle black. somewhere between zero and +4°C de- many fairs are done just for the money. LFW: Any funny finishes or such? pending on how oily the whisky is; in LFW: Why buy a distillery? It’s all going into sherry casks just now, bigger companies it might be anything It seemed like a nice idea. There’s a we will fill our first bourbon barrel soon from -5 to -10°C. magic to it; an industry that’s 100 years and will try a balance between sherry, LFW: Why chill it at all? old, a lot of history, a great story, full of bourbon, a little port and maybe the odd Without it, an oily whisky will go cloudy Scottishness, and a great product. rum cask, just to see what happens. as the fatty flavour congeners come out Our first attempt was to buy the old Nothing innovative but the beauty is of solution and give a haze; there’s noth- Caledonian grain distillery in the mid- that nothing has been done with ing wrong with it, but it’s not very ap- dle of Edinburgh but we were too late, it Edradour yet—it is unique with a super pealing in the bottle. By reducing the went to developers. spirit. temperature, the oils solidify and are Then Ardbeg, which was won by I want to make a peaty whisky; soon we separated out in filter plates. The result Glenmorangie who have since done such will spend three weeks producing about is a clear and stable product. a marvellous job. To achieve what they 45 hogsheads from heavily peated malt. ‘Unchillfiltered’ and whis- have would have taken me twenty years LFW: And will you charge visitors? kies are bottled at the ambient tempera- and Ardbeg is better off with them. I don’t have any plans to introduce ture. All our whiskies are barrier-fil- Next, we nearly bought Glencadam on the charging, the tour will remain free. For- tered to remove solids, bits of wood and East coast, a great but little known dis- tunately we have a high spend in the charcoal from the cask. tillery with nice gardens. However that shop which balances the cost of guides. From the filters it goes to a holding tank was the point when Brian and I differed Edradour will become the Home of Sig- and then on to our new bottling machine so strongly that he left the business. I re- natory and I feel the more enthusiastic which is (nearly!) fully automatic. We alised I couldn’t run both on my own. With whisky fan expects and deserves some- had a bigger machine scaled down to fit hindsight Brian did me a favour. thing extra so we will try and do more the space available. It’s about 6.5 me- Then Glenturret, that got very close but in the evenings for them. tres long and looks like a model railway Highland Distillers changed hands. Af- LFW: How do you view the sudden with bottles chinking along—sometimes ter which point I realised that if I was upsurge in independent distillers? I believe I can hear it choo-choo! Hap- going to make my dream work, I needed If you want to stay in the industry then pily the new labelling machine copes a small production unit like Glenturret. you have to become part of it and that with most labels and so the number of So I kept looking, flicking through may explain the increase in the number people required has fallen to just four, Jackson’s book and it kept falling on of distillery owners. In my case it is a one third that before. Previously every Edradour, the smallest of the lot. way of securing my future and that label had to be applied by hand—sit I badgered the managers at Campbell makes sense for Gordon & MacPhail down, knees together, take label from Distillers about it. They said ‘unlikely’. buying Benromach too. In time I see Sig- the gumming machine and place it on. After six months it was known that they natory’s sales declining but now expect You can bottle about 600 bottles in an were to take on all of Seagram’s facili- Edradour to fill that. Admittedly it has hour that way but it is very tiresome. ties; I reckoned then that Edradour given me access to more stocks for bot- LFW: Your labels are very detailed. would be surplus to their requirements. tling than before. Cask strength bottlings have to be done I was told it probably would be available LFW: Any reaction from the rest of unlabelled because the final alcohol and that my name was at the top of the the industry? strength is determined after filtering list but they were talking an Ardbeg A lot of nice comments and letters of con- and it may lose up to 1%—I don’t know price—but it’s not Ardbeg! However at gratulations but I don’t think we are any why, it just does. Unlabelled bottles are that time I had no idea that they had threat to anyone. In two or three years boxed onto pallets while our friendly about 100,000 visitors each year! we have the potential of 20,000 cases to printer produces the labels. Then we will Then I met Georges Nectoux, the new sell and that is tiny compared with the unpack and run the bottles through the boss of Chivas, at Whisky Live in Lon- big brands. labelling line again. The information of don. He told me that he would like to LFW: Will you be bottling on site? strength and quantity is absolutely ac- take matters further. I was very calm but I have no plans to leave Edinburgh, al- curate because we bottle it first. Other inside I was leaping about! I explained I though our bottling facility is (again) too bottlers will guess the quantity or the was having difficulties making the fig- small and we are going to have to re- strength and reduce it later if necessary; ures stack up. After some discussion a arrange it to cope with increased pro- is that a true cask strength whisky? I price of £5.4m was agreed, including duction. Edinburgh is central, our staff don’t think so. roughly £3m for stock. I was delighted! are from there, there is no space to do it Each label is individually hand num- Edradour is well run and a real commer- at Edradour—near Perth maybe one bered and that writing could be mine, cial proposition. Visitors help the cash day, but not in the near future. Annette’s (my girlfriend), Lorraine (my flow and profitability which is important It’s great at a weekend to come up here, assistant) or my brother Brian—anyone because making whisky at Edradour is it’s an escape. I’m known as the ‘new who’s willing! A bit boring and we a lot more expensive than anywhere else. laird’ locally, I love that! wanted to stop it but so many said it is Being so small it doesn’t have the LFW: Desert Island dram? a unique Signatory thing. We no longer economy of scale; I can only do five I’m a great fan of sherry cask whisky. I do it on the big run stuff, the value for mashes per week but still have to pay like my 1976 Glenlivet and Glen Grant money bottlings and no longer on mini- two people who could produce twice as at cask strength, and my 1990 atures, thank goodness! much with bigger equipment. unchillfiltered Glenrothes. I didn’t drink LFW: Who does your selling? LFW: And selling for blending? Edradour before but I have become very Most of the selling is done by myself and I plan to keep it all for single malt sales. partial to it especially my new Brian. Recently we employed a finance After all, I can’t have those damned in- unchillfiltered Edradour. It’s quite heav- man who is taking on the sales of dependent bottlers making profit from ily sherried and I have been drinking a Edradour. We sell to about 100 shops in my brand! Actually, I’d have no objection lot of it to get acquainted! Of the other the UK and to 27 countries. We find our- to someone else bottling my whisky, pro- producers I particularly like Ardbeg and selves doing more and more trade shows. viding it was a good example of Edradour. Springbank. To begin with they were a novelty but People delight in asking if my attitude LFW: Thank you. now they are a chore—Germany will to independent bottlings or bottlers has The full text of our fascinating discus- have four whisky fairs next year at which changed. No it hasn’t—it would be the sion can be read at lfw.co.uk/swr.

SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW—Loch Fyne Whiskies, Inveraray, Argyll, PA32 8UD. www.LFW.co.uk PAGE 3 of the business has to brace itself for an as to what they are about. DEVIL’S ADVOCATE upsurge of orders. It is even unlikely I read a review of Black Bottle in one of that the whisky will actually reach the the weekend supplements recently. Our market it is intended for within the spe- “expert” left me wholly confused as to cific financial year, but as long as it is whether the blend was indeed a blend, on a boat or even a quayside that’s prob- or a vatting of various malts, or a ably sufficient to constitute a “sale”— vatting of malts generally. I’m damn thus ensuring some country manager sure he hadn’t a clue either and had been has exceeded his no doubt soft budget given a steer by some marketing type target and thus triggered a better bo- who was probably equally unsure as to nus payment as a consequence. It’s not what the particular product contained. that you, the customers, have necessar- I well remember similar confusion years ily taken cognisance of your supplier’s ago with the mighty Bell’s Islander... no- Turnbull Hutton year end and/or changed your drinking one seemed very sure whether that was habits accordingly! a blend or a vatting either. PARASITES, PROSTITUTES, In the last organisation I worked for one It seems reasonable that the public at individual actually pulled the pipeline large should be able to rely on the “ex- SLEAZE AND ETHICS loading stunt two years in succession… perts” to help educate them—assuming So what’s rattled my cage during the for which he was duly rewarded. A of course that the public don’t necessar- summer months I hear you ask. Well, change of senior management—prob- ily believe what the brand owners tell just about everything. Pension scandals, ably advised by Harvard graduates them! If the “expert” is truly independ- accounting trickery, obscene bonus pay- masquerading as Business Consultants ent—and honest—the reader can, and ments... the usual fripperies of Corpo- —then decided that high in-market should, make up their own mind as to rate big business. Then a letter arrived stocks tied up working capital and one whether they value the opinion of the from Harvard and I can do no more than of the bonus measurements that par- “expert”. But what if the “expert” estab- to quote the first paragraph: ticular year would be driven by the lishes some credibility as an opinion amount of stock managers could get out former and is then retained in some ca- “Dear Harvard Business School Alumni, of the system. Yes, you’ve guessed it... pacity by a company. Should he declare Nearly every week, it seems another tale our man scored again! Thanks to his an interest? Arguably, there is little of corporate misconduct is uncovered. As foresight—or greed—the previous two harm in an “expert” being associated the reports increasingly make clear, an years (for which he had already been with a particular company. Where I unsettling number of business leaders rewarded) he scored a hat trick of bo- struggle somewhat is when I see the apparently have put their own motives nuses! Own motives and profit before same “expert” extolling the virtues of and profit before integrity. In so doing, integrity? You bet! competing products, sometimes on suc- they have undermined the trust and cessive days! Or stating that his all time harmed the well-being of their employ- favourite whisky is Glenwhatever, ees, communities, and investors. At the If we can’t whilst in another publication alluding same time, mounting evidence indicates to much the same thing with a com- the possibility of systemic flaws in our pletely different product! Call me a cynic processes of governance and compensa- trust the but... I then find that on the strength of tion as well as our accounting stand- something nice having been written ards. As a result, the faith of people about a product, the producer of that around the world in the economic sys- independence product then employs or retains the tem that forms a crucial element of our services of the “expert” to lecture to in- society has been damaged.” house marketeers that the product they of the are selling is good because the “expert” And so it went on... you get the drift... says so... so get out there and build on Solution was, of course, a set of work- that! It seems to me the industry is pay- shops exploring the complicated issues whisky scribes ing for a service—by the hour or by the underlying leadership, values and cor- day—which gets me back to my title. porate governance, and to work toward It’s cash for questions, it’s lobbying gone new frameworks of thought and action who can we mad, it’s part of the corporate sleaze in this arena. that is suddenly high profile again. If So that’s OK then… somebody’s looking we can’t trust the independence of the at it. The fact that it was probably the trust? whisky scribes, who can we trust? same crowd who arguably planted the Now that I’m on a roll, let’s move closer So come on guys, let’s have a breakdown seeds of greed and financial re-engineer- to home. I read with interest the opin- of retainers paid, percentage of income ing in the first place by churning out ions of that ever growing band of whisky from writings as against endorsements, smart business consultants… I think writers... and yes, the irony of the situ- cost of trips paid for, freebies received. possibly the irony was lost on them. ation is not lost on me. I would point A register for us all to peruse. Copies of I worked for an organisation that was out at this stage that I don’t actually web-site endorsements—English or keen on bonus payments. Indeed I ben- make a living from this! Japanese versions! You’ve nothing to efited from them myself over the years. Whether specialist Whisky Magazines, hide... have you? What I could never understand however colour supplements in weekend news- I’ll even start the ball rolling myself. was why I would do a better job with a papers, web-site and TV appearances, Income from whisky companies : 100% bonus than I would do for a basic sal- or the latest book by whoever is in vogue Diageo Pensioner. Income from writing: ary. Did the organisation not take me at the time... it is fascinating to look at the odd from the editor and a few on to do a proper job for a fair reward what is being churned out. There are kind words now and then. Availability on an ongoing basis? of course the good scribes; knowledge- for endorsements, sleaze, free holidays, It is always interesting that irrespec- able, informed, witty, and independent. trips to Japan... speak to me. I may tive of when a major whisky company’s And then there are the others... and I even say something nice about your financial year ends, the production end have to wonder if they have any idea product!

PAGE 4 SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW—Loch Fyne Whiskies, Inveraray, Argyll, PA32 8UD. www.LFW.co.uk Editors note: In the piece below, the con- at defunct distilleries or being asked to closer to first hand experience. tributor was asked to write on a topic of undertake unpaid research about an When I started working on malts I de- his choice; spookily he appears to have obscure 1997 Derbyshire bottling of cided to inform and educate—not too responded to some points made so trench- Glen Matlock for punk rock fans. (I just grand a concept in this field—as well antly by The Advocate. This is pure co- made that up, so please don’t pester as entertain myself in the hope of doing incidence, since he did not have sight of Joynson.) the same for others. I read the best Turnbull’s piece. (Conspiracy theorists I rumbled Hans because I’m unaccus- books. But I have also learned from talk- will reckon otherwise). tomed to being addressed as ‘an expert’ ing to the famous scribes, collectors and and I don’t consider myself one. OK, even anoraks. The more accomplished A FAR FROM EXPERT VIEW around 200,000 malts drinkers read my collectors know a lot about, well, collect- John Allen— Editor, The Quaich and others’ ramblings in The Quaich, ing. And the anoraks? Well, quite a few A few years back, scanning my e-mail the newsletter of the Friends of The punters I have met really are fascinat- inbox for anything resembling a worth- Classic Malts which I’ve edited for some ing, but only when talking about any- while communication, the word ‘whisky’ six years now, but that only makes me thing other than whisky. caught my eye. In hope, I clicked on the a writer on the subject. I was selected Not surprisingly, I’ve gained most sender’s name, Hans Kneesan. because of a skill and something of a from those who offered more than It was obviously someone masquerad- track record in communicating compli- opinion. The only real experts are ing as a humourless German whisky fa- cated subjects—and encouraging a re- those whose job is to make the stuff, natic to enjoy a joke at my expense. How sponse. or ensure its quality and—heaven could I tell? Because the sender referred Writers in any sphere get labelled as ‘ex- forefend—a few of those who market to me as ‘an expert’. After e-mailing back perts’ because of our—yes, I’m included and sell it. And the more they talk to ask whether he knew a friend of mine —relative ignorance and desperate from experience, the better. listed by Deutsches Telecom as quest for inside information. At its Writers are just that. They write. Good ‘Boomsah, Daisy’ (geddit?), I contacted worst, many of us go down the road ones do it well; the others don’t. And I the others listed as recipients of the e- marked ‘celebrity endorsement’. I’m not find the debate about their independ- mail. All chums connected with the above choosing a wine from an off-li- ence rather pointless. The industry and whisky business, they hadn’t spotted it cence shelf because a glowing review of they are interdependent, in much the as a hoax, despite the atrocious comedy- it from a columnist I rate is displayed. same way that film directors and review- English and the obvious inanity of the However, nothing, but nothing, beats ers are. My preferred stance is far closer questions. Going through their e-mail tasting the stuff for yourself. Going into to the scepticism of Andrew Jefford than records, it seemed they’d been reward- Oddbins and getting them to open a bot- the Hello-style gushing of some hacks. ing the joker by responding politely to tle of 25 year old Talisker so you can Readers can surely discern from the ar- his enquiries for some time. make up your own mind doesn’t work. ticle whether the author is objective, or Part and parcel of being recognised as So, we use the tasting notes of those possibly in someone’s pay. an expert, is answering endless ques- lucky enough to be sent a review bottle. Incidentally, did I mention that the Loch tions about archaic pieces of equipment Reading is never a substitute for being Fyne blend puts all others in the shade?

McEwan or Alistair Robertson or Stuart best whisky!” they roar, eight deep at the Thompson but, by the time you have trestle table laughingly referred to as a fought your way through to the relevant stand, as they thrust an empty glass into stand, they are no longer around and you the face of the unassuming Distillery are poured too large a measure by a Manager. These are the sort of people vapid girl in a tartan miniskirt who can’t for whom appreciation of whisky is be- remember her shoe size let alone the size ing able to relate to their friends that of the stills at wherever. they tasted a 60 year-old Mortlach the Ladies and Gentlemen, welcome to night before–if they remember. You WhiskInferno. Yes, I am aware of my know the type: they know the price of guilt. Mea culpa. I have nothing against everything and the value of nothing. the whisky exhibition per se. That’s why You talk to the organisers: it was a great FESTOPHOBIA I set up Whisky Live. But I try to make night. We had 3,000 people through the Marcin Miller—Editor, Whisky Magazine a virtue of its, ahem, exclusivity. We only turnstiles. The quality of the audience (cowering, lower right) get around 900 people or so along to our is seldom assessed. Only quantity. I Initially, when I first got tangled up in London event and we just break through mused on this as I attempted to avoid the unchillfiltered world of whisky en- the 1,000 barrier in Tokyo. That way, the the vomit on my way out. You know it thusiasts, I thought it was all about a visitor has time to enjoy the experience has been a great whisky festival when civilised, contemplative appreciation of and has time to speak with the blenders the gents is out of commission midway the distiller’s art. Single , a and distillers. For the exhibitor, it is of through the event. mood drink. I’ll just commune with the greater interest as they can have a dia- The trouble is, I’m supposed to attend spirit of the ancients. Aaah. logue with you, the customer. Whisky ALL these bloody things. Of course, I’m Just goes to show how naïve one can be. companies are genuinely interested in not one to moan and I’d like to be every- No, to be a true whisky enthusiast you the views and opinions of readers of the where all the time but as every High have to spend a day wandering around Scotch Whisky Review and of Whisky Street in the world is having a whisky a Whisky Festival, weighed down with Magazine. Of course they are. They festival in November it is not feasible. logo-bearing carrier bags stuffed with would rather take the time to hold a And, naturally, when you don’t visit The bits of paper you are never going to read proper conversation with you, to learn Norwich and Norfolk Ultimate Single about products you never intend to buy. about your likes and dislikes, to find Malt Extravaganza they always take it Oh, and a couple of golf tees. You have something unusual for you to taste. Ul- personally. I get snotty e-mails from to wear a badge or a sticker. If you are a timately, even to sell you something! But Danes saying “we had 30 whisky løvers genuine zealot you will wear your tast- they are wasting their time at the bun- at our fair and you didn’t dedicate a 12- ing glass around your neck. You may fights. I’ve seen it. Thousands of ill-man- page supplement to it”. catch the occasional glimpse of someone nered lunatics crammed into a cheesy Hey ho. Perhaps December will be qui- you really would like to talk to, like Jim hotel for a tasting frenzy: “Pour me your eter…

SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW—Loch Fyne Whiskies, Inveraray, Argyll, PA32 8UD. www.LFW.co.uk PAGE 5 MORE MALTS MONEY MADNESS! TOP SHELF: Last year’s most popular deal is repeated: This year we offer more deals than ever before but space and Buy any two ‘Classic Malts’, get a free bottle of Knockando pure excitement prevents us from pointing out anything spe- OB CRAGGANMORE — 3∆ 12 40% £ 23.90 Buy cific so you’ll just have to study our shelves! OB DALWHINNIE — 2 15 43% £ 23.90 any 2 Once again there are lots of FREE FREEBIES! OB GLENKINCHIE 10 43% £ 23.90 for a Free with each order: OB LAGAVULIN — 5∆ 16 43% £ 29.50 free OB OBAN — 4 14 43% £ 27.50 70cl • A FREE MINIATURE OF EDRADOUR 10yo! OB TALISKER — 5∆ 10 46% £ 25.90 KNOCKANDO! • A FREE COPY OF THE SCOTTISH FIELD! SAVING..... • A FREE LABEL PEELER (a what?—see page 8). OB ABERFELDY 12 40% £ 21.90 £ 4.00 and OB ABERLOUR 10 40% £ 17.00 £ 2.50 • FREE DELIVERY!—If you buy any four (or more) malts OB ABERLOUR — A’BUNADH 60% £ 27.90 £ 3.00 from our Stock List and add two (or more) bottles of the superb, OB AN CNOC (Knockdhu) 12 40% £ 17.90 £ 4.00 award winning Loch Fyne we’ll deliver FREE to a UK address! OB ARDBEG — 5∆ 10 46% £ 20.40 £ 3.50 (That’s buy FOUR malts AND two Loch Fyne—yes?) OB ARDBEG — 4∆ 17 40% £ 24.80 £ 4.00 * SMALL PRINT * CC ARDBEG ’90/11 40% £ 21.20 £ 3.00 These deals and freebies are while stocks last. Freebies are OB AUCHENTOSHAN — 1 10 40% £ 17.90 £ 4.00 limited to one per customer and will not be included in ‘gift’ OB AUCHENTOSHAN — Three Wood 43% £ 26.40 £ 6.00 orders i.e. where a single bottle is being sent to someone other OB BALVENIE — Founder’s Reserve10 40% £ 18.90 £ 4.00 than the person paying. OB BALVENIE — Double Wood 12 40% £ 21.90 £ 4.00 OVERSEAS CUSTOMERS OB BALVENIE — Single Barrel ’84/16 50% £ 32.90 £ 5.00 Please check lfw.co.uk for delivery deadlines if important. OB BENROMACH — 3∆ 18 40% £ 28.50 £ 5.00 Sorry, but weight prohibits the inclusion of the free Scottish OB BOWMORE — Legend 40% £ 15.90 £ 4.00 Field to overseas buyers. OB BOWMORE 12 40% £ 19.20 £ 4.00 DEALS & DELIVERIES DEADLINE OB BOWMORE — Mariner — 5 15 43% £ 22.90 £ 5.00 All deals offered at lfw.co.uk and on these pages are valid for OB BOWMORE — ∆ 17 43% £ 28.60 £ 7.00 mail order customers placing orders before noon on Mon- OB BOWMORE — Darkest — ∆ 43% £ 27.60 £ 6.00 day 17th December. OB BOWMORE —Dusk 50% £ 27.90 £ 6.00 ORDERING FROM LFW.CO.UK OB BOWMORE — Dawn 52% £ 27.90 £ 6.00 On-line orders may not appear to include certain deals but OB BOWMORE — Sky 25 43% £ 99.00 £ 20.00 be assured they will be included when serviced, if available. OB BOWMORE — Dragon 30 43% £ 165.00 £ 25.00

PAGE 6 SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW—Loch Fyne Whiskies, Inveraray, Argyll, PA32 8UD. www.LFW.co.uk MIDDLE SHELF LOWER SHELF OB BRUICHLADDICH—∆ 15 46% £ 29.90 £ 3.00 OB GLEN MORAY ’59/40 51% £ 435.00 £ 90.00 OB — 4 12 40% £ 18.90 £ 5.00 OB GLENROTHES ’89/12 43% £ 30.20 £ 5.00 OB CAOL ILA — 5∆ 12 43% £ 23.90 £ 2.00 OB GLENTURRET 12 40% £ 22.90 £ 1.00 OB CAOL ILA 18 43% £ 33.20 £ 2.00 OB GLENTURRET 18 40% £ 44.00 £ 10.00 OB CAOL ILA - ∆ 55% £ 29.50 £ 2.00 OB HIGHLAND PARK — 3∆ 12 40% £ 19.90 £ 5.00 OB CARDHU 12 40% £ 22.30 £ 3.00 OB HIGHLAND PARK,WB+D (right)1958 42% £ 690.00 £ 200.00 OB CLYNELISH — 4∆ 14 46% £ 24.70 £ 2.00 OB INVERARITY — 2 10 40% £ 17.90 £ 2.00 OB-d CLYNELISH 14 43% £ 29.90 £ 2.00 OB INVERARITY — ISLAY — 5 10 40% £ 20.90 £ 3.00 OB-d DAILUAINE — 3 16 43% £ 27.90 £ 2.00 OB INVERARITY — Ancestral— 3 14 40% £ 23.90 £ 4.00 OB DALMORE — 3 12 40% £ 19.60 £ 6.00 OB ISLE OF JURA 10 40% £ 17.50 £ 4.40 OB EDRADOUR 10 40% £ 27.60 £ 3.30 OB ISLE OF JURA 16 40% £ 27.70 £ 4.50 OB GROUSE VINTAGE MALT 1989 40% £ 19.80 £ 2.50 OB KNOCKANDO ’90/12 40% £ 18.60 £ 3.00 OB FETTERCAIRN 12 40% £ 21.90 £ 1.20 OB KNOCKDHU — ∆ 23 57% £ 40.00 £ 8.90 OB GLENFIDDICH — 2 12 40% £ 19.90 £ 2.00 G&M LINKWOOD 15 40% £ 23.50 £ 4.00 OB GLENFIDDICH—Caoran 12 40% £ 21.60 £ 4.00 OB LOCHNAGAR (Royal) — 3 12 40% £ 21.30 £ 3.00 OB GLENFIDDICH — Solera — 3 15 40% £ 23.90 £ 5.00 OB MACALLAN — 3 10 40% £ 21.90 £ 3.00 OB GLENFIDDICH 18 40% £ 31.90 £ 8.00 G&M MORTLACH — 3 15 40% £ 23.50 £ 4.00 OB GLEN GARIOCH 15 43% £ 19.90 £ 5.00 OB OLD PULTENEY — 4 12 40% £ 18.70 £ 4.00 OB GLENGOYNE — 1 10 40% £ 19.90 £ 3.00 OB-d PITTYVAICH 12 43% £ 27.90 £ 2.00 OB GLENGOYNE — ∆ 17 43% £ 30.30 £ 6.00 OB-d ROSEBANK 12 43% £ 29.90 £ 2.00 OB GLENLIVET (The) — 3 12 40% £ 18.40 £ 2.50 OB SPEYBURN 10 40% £ 17.00 £ 4.00 OB GLENLIVET (The) — ∆ 18 43% £ 26.90 £ 3.00 OB SPRINGBANK 10 46% £ 22.50 £ 2.00 OB GLENMORANGIE — 2 10 40% £ 21.90 £ 2.00 OB TOMATIN 10 40% £ 16.50 £ 4.00 OB GLENMORANGIE Port — 2∆ 12+ 43% £ 22.50 £ 4.00 OB TAMNAVULIN— 35cl 12 40% £ 7.50 £ 2.50 OB GLENMORANGIE Madeira 12+ 43% £ 22.50 £ 4.00 OB ANTIQUARY 12 40% £ 18.90 £ 3.00 OB GLENMORANGIE Sherry 12+ 43% £ 22.50 £ 4.00 OB ANTIQUARY 21 40% £ 35.90 £ 15.00 OB GLENMORANGIE — ∆ 15 43% £ 26.50 £ 4.50 OB J Walker — BLACK LABEL — ∆12 40% £ 16.90 £ 3.00 OB GLENMORANGIE Original 50cl’74/25 43% £ 95.00 £74.00 AND SOME STICKIES OB GLEN MORAY — Chardonnay 40% £ 15.00 £ 1.90 OB DUNKELD ATHOLL BROSE 35% £ 17.00 £ 2.60 OB GLEN MORAY 12 40% £ 17.70 £ 3.00 OB HEATHER CREAM 17% £ 8.90 £ 2.00 OB GLEN MORAY 16 40% £ 21.90 £ 3.70 OB OLD PULTENEY 30% £ 11.90 £ 3.00

SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW—Loch Fyne Whiskies, Inveraray, Argyll, PA32 8UD. www.LFW.co.uk PAGE 7 NEW(s) FROM ISLAY YOUR FREE PEELER Steve Webb of Bowmore pointed out tell me they sold more last month As long as we have stock to give away that almost all the recent increase that they did in that first year! every parcel of a bottle or more will also in sales of malt whisky is a result Stocks of our Bottling of the Year have in it a miniature of Edradour, a of the five—now six—marketed 20yo are depleted and a 17yo—‘XVII’ copy of The Scottish Field (UK only) and malts from Islay. has replaced it, however it is no a Label Peeler—a what? During this year’s Islay Festival, taste substitute for the 20. We have This marvellous gizmo, previously only Diageo launched three new expres- a little stock of the 20yo left. sold to the wine trade, will solve many sions of Caol Ila, the opening brand Our list also shows four new limited problems: will I drink it, will I keep it? for a new series called ‘the Hidden releases from ‘The Laddie’. Where will I keep all these bottles now Malts’, now complete with new ex- the garage is full too? What to buy the pressions or packaging for man with everything? Clynelish, Glen Ord and Glen Elgin. The Label Peeler is a reliable method of This, it is hoped, will take some of removing paper labels from your treas- the pressure off their flagship range ured bottles for the safe keeping of your the ‘Classic Malts’. Caol Ila in par- memories. Here’s how to use them: ticular will relieve the great de- 1. Drain the contents of the bottle, ei- mand against supply of Lagavulin. ther on your own or with friends (per- The three Caol Ilas are worthy of haps have them sign the label). If space support and are as good as saving is your intent you could decant Lagavulin. The 12yo (£ 25.90) is in- into one of our sample bottles (see our distinguishable from the old ‘Fauna “Enlightenment” is a distillery bot- Stock List or the hardware section at & Flora’ expression. It is the most tling organised and marketed by lfw.co.uk). Don safety goggles and rub- pungent with a taste including rub- publisher Malcolm Greenwood. Five ber gloves (if that is your thing) and en- ber, briny fishing nets and smoky hundred bottles accompanied by a sure the bottle and label are clean, then: bonfires. leather bound facsimile reprint of The cask strength (“about 10 ‘The Practical Diftiller’ from 1718; years”) and 55%vol (£ 31.50) is a lit- numbered book and bottle, beauti- tle smoother with a typical iodine fully boxed—very defirable. A few plus kipperiness, and less of the left at a worthwhile £185. rubbery notes of the 12yo. Long goes Then there are three vintage the debate as to which is better. bottlings in Bruichladdich armour. The fabulous 18yo (£ 35.20) is much The oldest, ‘Legacy’ (£169), sports softer with more wood influence and a fetching tin with an Islay sea- Peel off the plastic film less smoke. Apples & pears, floral, scape. Limited to 1,500 bottles, this Parma violets, oak (lots), card, 36yo is the first of such drinkable/ must, grass and a wee reek of old collectables. Two special McEwan fish, complex, tight and round. A bit selected Vintages are definitely for Talisker-like. (‘Reek’ as in the Scots drinking, 1984 and 1970, (£61.90 & definition of a waft or hint of some- £115), in particular the 1970 which thing, not a stench. Think of the is chust sublime. All three exhibit Bisto kids—aaaah!). an orange note with in the 1984 a Place film over label, pressing firmly from the A limited edition Lagavulin 12yo smokey reek and the ’70 more fruit. middle outwards; chase out any trapped air. at cask strength (£ 40.90) will be in See lfw.co.uk for more about num- WAIT five minutes. Have a dram. the shop when you read this (quick bers and nosings. or it may be sold out!) No picture The bottling hall at Bruichladdich because some useless twerp at is finished and from now all will be Diageo couldn’t be bothered to chateau bottled. e-mail me one. Saving the best till last. Also due is the second of three Anyone willing to spend £100 for limited annual releases of Port the festive season should buy Ellen (£102). Stocks of this su- Bunnahabhain’s 1968 ‘Auld Then remove by lifting from one edge. The per whisky (closed 1983) seem to Acquaintance’ a so paper is paired apart—don’t panic! be inexhaustible but one day called because it was filled into soon we’ll find the warehouse cask on New Year’s eve! Imagine is bare. the perfect whisky for your Bowmore are confident they Christmas pud: a gloriously can retail 900 bottles at £1,000 sweet, wood-influenced, warm, each for their trio of 1964 distil- island dram. A hint of pipe to- lations drawn from Fino, Oloroso bacco and white chocolate or- and Bourbon casks, referred to ange—the whole tongue is en- as ‘the sisters of Black gaged. It’s spicy, salty and bit- Return the film to the backing sheet, or your Bowmore’. Investors may be ter. Fantastic! And only 2002 own scrap book, or the inside of your wishing for a similar tenfold in- bottles. My tip for the overall windscreen, or have it framed, or... crease but this cynic suspects winner of the Scottish Field Take the bottle to the bottle bank for recycling. that Bowmore have accounted Merchants’ Challenge (see the It is very impressive and it really works! for that in the price. Our tiny back page). Have fun with your freebie. More peel- allocation sold out immediately. Gossip from around the ers are available for 75p each and we The new owners of mashtun is that Bunny (or sis- have a dedicated leather binder label Bruichladdich have just fin- ter Glengoyne) is available for library to store them in for £23.00. ished their first year of market- sale. She needs a determined THE PERFECT GIFT! ing their new expressions and new owner; why not you?

PAGE 8 SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW—Loch Fyne Whiskies, Inveraray, Argyll, PA32 8UD. www.LFW.co.uk Revenue Agent, Colonel Daniel Porter, both chained to the wall. “Hotel keepers that “the penalties for violation are so soon found themselves compelled to de- drastic, that the people will not attempt fend themselves in this way after the to violate it [i.e. the Volstead Act]”. ‘dry’ law was enacted, as guests were Redfern writes: “There are upwards of known to wreck whole suites of bedroom ten thousand of these in New York, all furniture in desperate efforts to remove paying their ‘rake off’ to the police and a closure.” the authorities charged with the enforce- Redfern travelled hundreds of miles by ment of the law. These speakeasies vary car around the country and “every chauf- in character from mere drinking dens to feur I engaged had bootlegged , palatially appointed private houses… and undertook to procure me anything Now and again these places are raided I wanted”. Yet such traffic was not with- by the authorities just to advertise in the out danger: “An American friend with newspapers their determination to vin- two quarts of Scotch in his motor car was F. REDFERN—WHISKY HERO dicate the majesty of the law. When the held up by two Prohibition officers, who Charles MacLean fuss is over, the same place re-opens and pushed automatics into his stomach I have reached the 1920s in the history everything goes on as before….It rejoices whilst they secured his ‘hooch’. These of Scotch whisky I have been writing the heart of a bootlegger to be fined. His officers sat up carousing far into the over the past two years. The era of Pro- name and address are then broadcasted night, whilst my friend languished in his hibition, which ‘banned the manufac- in the newspapers, and he is engulfed cell. Next morning, in Court, the offic- ture, sale, transportation or exportation in a new wave of prosperity.” ers were challenged by my friend to pro- of intoxicating within the United “Everywhere I went people sang the duce the bottles. Alas! They could not, States, and the importation of same’. praises of the honest bootlegger. It was since, as my friend wittily remarked, As I am sure you know, the flow of liq- clear that none enjoyed more respect ‘they had drunk the evidence.” uor – especially Scotch – into the U.S. than he, or stood higher in the social “On my last day in New York I walked continued unabated, mainly via Canada hierarchy. I visited many restaurants in into the principal book store and said I and the Caribbean. I was surprised, New York where whisky is openly was prepared to buy all the books deal- however, to discover just how readily served. In private houses where I dined ing with Prohibition they had to sell. available alcohol was in many states— with friends not even remotely con- They had none. ‘Prohibition!’, said the certainly if the following report is to be nected with our Trade, it was the cus- salesman to me, ‘Prohibition! Why there believed. It was written by Mr. F. tom to consume cocktails innumerable ain’t no sech thing.’ Next day I got on Redfern, representative for Johnnie before the meal….” board the largest ship in the world, Walker, who spent three months in the While he was in Washington his hotel was owned by the USA Government. It was States in late 1928 or early 1929. “invaded by hundreds of men attending bone dry, not merely until the Statue of As soon as he arrived at his hotel in New a great trade conference. Most of these Liberty was passed but, after much fuss, York, he noticed “quite a number of qui- men had their private sitting rooms, scandal and debate in Congress, etly dressed and somewhat sad-looking where they dispensed ‘Scotch’ to friend throughout the voyage…I had no need individuals arriving and departing, all and foe alike. These congresses are very to worry. You could have filled the swim- carrying suit cases. On inquiry I was told popular. Some people call them ‘souses’.” ming bath of that ship with the cham- that they were bringing in supplies of Many hotel rooms displayed notices in- pagne and other liquors which were sup- liquor to the guests. Nobody appeared forming guests that: “The proprietors of plied openly to the passengers by the to take any notice of them…The cham- this hotel have given an undertaking to ‘wine steward’.” bermaid in attendance on my room in- co-operate with the Authorities charged Ironically, it was Prohibition which gave formed me that practically all the guests with the enforcement of the National Americans a taste for Scotch. After the in the hotel had liquor in their bedrooms. Prohibition Law”. Yet you could still or- Act was repealed by F.D. Rooseveldt in I found during my stay in the States that der bottles of Scotch or Rye from the 1933, the demand was insatiable, and it this was general.” ‘Captain of the Bell Boys’. Notices read- was quickly met by Scotch whisky com- While in New York he visited “a large ing “Gentlemen are requested to open panies which had quietly prepared their number” of speakeasies, where “you their medicine in the bathroom” were agency networks during the dry years, could get all the liquor you wanted”, in also common. Here would be discovered through the good work of unsung heroes spite of the 1920 boast of the city’s Chief a ‘crown cork opener’ and a corkscrew, like Mr. F. Redfern. seated firmly in my imagination, I of- Scotland. I peered into the mist to find fered my services. an identifiable mark from which to check ‘The cold light of day’ is a good expres- our progress. At last! There to the north- sion as is ‘size isn’t everything’. Combine west was the low, unmistakable white- the two, add a disbelieving look from a washed outline of , passing ferry and our epic voyage in The perched on a dark shore. Spirit of Loch Fyne had begun. Visibil- Our course was corrected to 290° mag- ity was poor but the skipper assured me netic and we celebrated having found A NEW DISTILLERY there was no more boat to see, it did stop Islay rather than rediscovering North Martin Will, Tactician — Spirit of Loch Fyne 18 feet from the stern! America. Keeping our heading for What do you get if you cross The Sound Conditions were not great, the light was Ardbeg the skipper noticed a eerie of Jura with a whisky retailer? deteriorating with a big Atlantic swell— change in the light and our heading to Enormously entertained is the answer. at least the tide and a bottle of North; “That’s the ferry—not Ardbeg— A great friend of mine had planned to Tanqueray was in our favour. you silly navigator! It’s Macbrayne’s Dis- go on this adventure; sail across to Is- Heading west, we soon lost sight of the tillery returning to the mainland.” lay for the closing piss-up of the Classic mainland behind us and were alone for We corrected our course and made the Malts Cruise at Lagavulin. But he a couple of hours before we picked out party in good time. Later, with a few couldn’t make it, so upon learning that the hills above Kildalton. Lagavulins behind us, we got to mus- crew was required and with the specta- As the navigator on watch I appreciated ing; maybe all the Kildalton distilleries cle of those fine thoroughbred yachts of the sophistication of Spirit’s compass are really beached Macbrayne’s steam- the big spending industrial tycoons and photocopy of a chart of the West of ers, and one day will put to sea again... SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW—Loch Fyne Whiskies, Inveraray, Argyll, PA32 8UD. www.LFW.co.uk PAGE 9 needs – it’s not just a drink anymore”. TALKING GERMAN RUBBER BEYOND DISTILLING III “The typical single malt consumer Helen Arthur Gavin D. Smith doesn’t exist”, he claims. “You might di- “The leggy blond appears to have got up vide the single malt consumer into a and walked.” “It’s silky and sensuous”. Having taken a look in previous issues number of categories, for example the Anyone peeping round the door seeing at some of the processes involved in turn- expert/enthusiast, the collector, the loy- 35 men seated in a room looking up at a ing raw spirit from a distillery into alist, the gift-giver, the bon viveur and top table of six men and one woman and whisky in a bottle, it seemed time to go the luxury goods consumer. hearing these expressions could have a stage further and examine the cunning “The expert/enthusiast is probably the been forgiven for thinking they had in- ways in which the distiller persuades the most ‘promiscuous’ of the consumers; to terrupted some sort of sex therapy meet- consumer to part with money for that remain an expert he needs to try every- ing. Not so. bottle of whisky. thing. The collector may be competitive; This was Ulf Buxrud’s mammoth Morrison Bowmore Distillers Ltd offered he may want more expressions of whis- Macallan tasting for a group of his interesting opportunities to study this kies than fellow collectors, or be inter- friends and also to celebrate the Queen’s activity, partly because the company is ested in whiskies as an investment. The Jubilee, at the Landmark Hotel in Lon- widely associated with innovative adver- loyalist will be loyal to a brand or dis- don. Ulf is a whisky collector and con- tising relating to its Bowmore single tillery and he could be from any level of noisseur from Malmo in Sweden. malt brand, and partly because much of society. The luxury goods consumer will Ulf was born in 1942—a year when very its design work is generated ‘in house’, also be interested in other prestige few whisky companies were able to dis- rather than being handled by external brands: Bentley, Beluga and Bowmore! til. Macallan was one of the few. He agencies. Of course, he may also be an expert/en- bought a bottle of the Macallan 1942 for Morrison Bowmore is a subsidiary of the thusiast! There are cross-overs between £300—today it is worth £3,000—but Japanese distilling giant Suntory, and the different categories and certain cat- Ulf’s isn’t worth that anymore because owns three Scottish distilleries, namely egories are more important in certain it was one of the whiskies included in Bowmore on Islay, Auchentoshan near markets than others. the tasting. It would be interesting to Glasgow, and Glen Garioch in Aberdeen- “Getting consumer loyalty within each speculate the value of all the whiskies shire. Bowmore, in its various expres- of the categories provides different chal- we tasted, but perhaps we would all feel sions, from unaged ‘Legend’ to 40 years lenges for us, and there is probably more terrible if we knew the truth as much old, makes up half the total of cased intuition required in single malt mar- was thrown away at the end! goods sold by the company. keting than with most other products. The tasting started with the 1942 and The firm’s headquarters is in the Glas- At the end of the day, consumers them- other vintages. Then a series of 18yos gow district of Springburn, and is based selves are your best brand ambassadors. from 1960 to 1984, then younger cask around a former Metal box factory, “We are currently in our fifth year of strength samples plus three of new spirit which has been its home since 1986. serious UK consumer advertising”, notes from 2000 onwards. In total 53 whiskies Here blending, bottling and packaging MacKay, “and we are no longer adver- were sampled. operations take place, along with all the tising specific Bowmore expressions. And the leggy blonde? Well the Chair- company’s design, marketing, manage- Our Bowmore consumers are mostly woman (and your correspondent) was ment and administrative functions. busy, stressed, urban-based people who describing a 1978 18yo which belied its Sales and Marketing Director for may live in quite threatening environ- age and appeared to have no legs. Morrison Bowmore is Kenneth MacKay, ments. At an emotional level Bowmore Michael Jackson also chose to use more who agreed to explore some aspects of offers a rural, timeless, hand-made, sensual imagery to depict the whiskies: whisky marketing with us. slower-paced alternative to their lives. An 18yo from 1963 as ‘having a very “Is Scotch malt whisky distilling a cot- We would like them to feel that they smooth body—silky—difficult when tage industry or a global, luxury goods have escaped to a better place with talking about body in this way but it business”, he muses. “Certain single Bowmore”. slides like silk—you know what I mean.’ malts sell increasingly in markets When the first Bowmore promotional When talking about the younger whis- around the globe not only on the basis campaign was inaugurated, the initial kies he spoke about the thrill of getting of how they were made and consumers images included an eye-catching, bare- younger—if only he could! in these markets will not have a great Charles MacLean seemed to get into a deal of appreciation of what happens in German rubber tack for a 1972 18yo; ‘the the distilleries, in the communities Germans adore rubber… in whisky you where whisky is produced”. understand—and they would enjoy the MacKay notes that because whisky re- hint of rubber in this from the European quires time to mature once distilled oak.’ By the time he got to the younger “there is a finite amount of stock at any whiskies he was enthusing about engine one point. You can’t just suddenly have oil and polished oak. Listeners at the more of it, so from a marketing point of keyhole were left to wonder. view, you need to be more strategic than John Hansell from Malt Advocate Maga- in almost any other industry. Only the zine said that by the fourth set of 10 nuclear industry has similar glasses he ‘felt like the guy in Groundhog timescales!” Day—I keep seeing ten whiskies, have Regarding the marketing of Bowmore, a taste, go to the bathroom, come back he points out that “you should always and there’s 10 more! This is fun!’ remember that what we have here is a Ulf of course had to keep having his niche segment within a niche segment. say—and the Chair struggled to control In a marketing sense whisky can fulfil his enthusiasm—much to the amuse- practical needs and ‘emotional’ needs. In ment of all others. terms of marketing theory a bottle of an One clear lesson learned. Don’t add wa- Own label blend might fulfil the ‘func- ter! At least not to all of your sample, tional’ need—to have a drink of alcohol, many of the older whiskies simply fell but a 1964 Bowmore, for example, might apart and faded away. also fulfil a wide spectrum of ‘emotional’

PAGE 10 SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW—Loch Fyne Whiskies, Inveraray, Argyll, PA32 8UD. www.LFW.co.uk breasted sea maiden, far removed from the traditional iconography of Scottish soldiers and mist-shrouded lochs and bens used to sell whisky. MacKay explains, “It was designed to grab attention. We needed something to get our heads above the parapet quickly, as the UK market for single malts was maturing rapidly and we needed to be- come a major player in a short space of time. It had to be memorable, so we de- cided to make it very different. The Bowmore name was largely unknown at the time, and the creative focus had to be on a simple, strong message which was upmarket and authentic”. The adverts played on the mystical as- pects of Islay, and used the strapline ‘smoke on the water’—a clever phrase a market position outside the top dozen. blended whisky are sold per annum. The designed to appeal to the age group who 120,000 cases of Bowmore are sold glo- re-launched Rob Roy will continue to be would readily associate it with the Deep bally per annum, 26,000 cases of which marketed in South America, while Purple rock anthem of 1972, composed are consumed in the UK. Thirty per cent Spain, Thailand and Taiwan will also be after the group watched the casino in of all Bowmore sold is ‘Legend’, which targeted. Montreux burn down while recording in carries no age statement, 30 per cent is Of the company’s three single malt Switzerland. 12 year old, and the remaining 40 per brands, Glen Garioch is the lowest-rank- “While focusing on attracting a younger cent is made up of all the other expres- ing in terms of sales, and as Kenneth age group, we also had to be careful not sions. In terms of UK advertising spend, MacKay notes, “We couldn’t do to alienate other groups, of course”, says Morrison Bowmore ranks third among Bowmore-style advertising with it—it MacKay. “In attracting the bon viveur, Scotch whisky companies after would be far too expensive. We sell it as for example, we had to make sure we Glenmorangie and Glenfiddich. an excellent value-for-money Highland didn’t alienate the loyalists”. The smart advertising only works, of malt at 10 year old and upwards, and Morrison Bowmore went on to produce course, if the product is on the shelves its presentation uses archetypal Scottish a series of ‘legends’ advertisements. and bar gantries when the potential cus- images—tartan and a stag. Although its Each one focused on a piece of lore local tomer wants to buy it. Supermarkets are sales are modest they are growing to Islay, and despite cynical suggestions one important sales outlet, as are spe- quickly and it is useful to us because we that they were surely made up over a cialist retailers like Loch Fyne Whiskies, need a good Highland malt for blending dram or two of the product, MacKay in- while the ‘on-trade’—or licensed purposes as well as for exchanges with sists that they were all authentic Heb- premises—makes up the third segment other distillers”. ridean legends. of the domestic market. Steve Webb is Auchentoshan is that rare creature, a The initial advertising campaign was Managing Director of Fiore Brands, a triple-distilled single malt, from one of the work of Edinburgh agency Citigate joint venture between Morrison a handful of surviving Lowland distill- -SMARTS, with whom Morrison Bowmore and , which since eries. It currently sells around 25,000 Bowmore Distillers Ltd still continue to June of this year has been ensuring that cases globally per annum, and is a par- be associated. Unusually for the whisky the firm’s products are in place ready to ticular favourite in Scandinavian mar- industry, much of the material is now be sampled by drinkers who have bought kets. As with Glen Garioch, a ten year generated ‘in house’, however, by Iain into the advertising. old is the principal expression. Gardiner. He produces images for adver- The on-trade accounts for some 18 per According to MacKay, “we’re currently tising, packaging and promotional pur- cent by volume for the Scotch whisky trying to position it as The Glasgow Malt poses, adapting and augmenting the industry overall, a figure which has not —trying to make it the people of Glas- basic elements originally established altered much during the last decade. gow’s whisky. The distillery is, after all, with Citigate-SMARTS. “Continuity of Fiore is keen to develop the on-trade, on their doorstep [at Dalmuir, close to execution can be very efficiently and with Webb noting that a bottle of the River Clyde]. It would be wonderful cost-effectively done ‘in house’ ”, says Bowmore in a bar could convert more if we could convert five per cent of Glas- Kenneth MacKay. than twenty potential customers! The gow’s blend drinkers to it!” Once the striking visual imagery of the place where most people try a new malt Morrison Bowmore are now sponsoring early campaign had done its work, whisky for the first time is in a pub or the Glasgow “Restaurant of the year” Morrison Bowmore decided to shift its hotel, rather than spending in excess of award and have established positive strategy slightly. According to MacKay, £20 on a bottle of something they are links with the city’s Lord Provost’s of- “We felt we needed to communicate on a not sure to like. fice. Civic visitors are now offered not a slightly different level. We wanted to Inevitably, much of the sales and mar- glass of blended whisky but a dram of emphasise Bowmore’s role in fulfilling keting effort is directed at the various specially bottled Auchentoshan when the emotional need, suggest a spiritual expressions of Bowmore, but what of the they are entertained in the City Cham- homecoming. We kept the overall mys- company’s other products? bers. “We’re still at the early stages of tery of it all, but became less bold, a lit- Morrison Bowmore owns a number of marketing the brand”, says MacKay, tle more homely in a sense. We felt the blended whisky brands, including Rob “but hopefully there are lots of opportu- strapline “I reached home” encapsulated Roy, which is about to undergo a pack- nities ahead”. the essence of Bowmore in three words”. aging makeover and global re-launch. The art—or science—of marketing has The company is clearly doing something The blend competes in international certainly come a long way since the days right, as Bowmore has now moved up to markets with the likes of 100 Pipers and when a distiller felt that all he needed occupy the number four position in Vat 69, selling particularly well in South to do in order to sell his whisky was to terms of overall volume sales for single America, where between 300,000 and print Ben, Glen, Loch or Royal on malt in Scotland, having previously held 400,000 cases of Morrison Bowmore’s the label…

SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW—Loch Fyne Whiskies, Inveraray, Argyll, PA32 8UD. www.LFW.co.uk PAGE 11 MICKEY GROUSE REACHES THE PRIZE THAT MALT DISNAE! The Famous Grouse Experience at has won a BAFTA. The new multimillion pound Perthshire attraction won the British Academy Film and FREE! Television Award in the Interactive Entertainment Category. Pictured here are Derek Brown, Director of The Famous Grouse Experience and This year we are giving away a FREE: ‘The Big Grouse’ (right) discussing relative credit sizes. • MINIATURE OF EDRADOUR • COPY OF THE SCOTTISH FIELD • LABEL PEELER (see page 8) DISTILLERY NEWS ALL CUSTOMERS— See page 6 for more information. Diageo have confirmed that Rosebank UNCENSORED! has been sold to the British Waterways VIRTUAL AND REAL Board. It is understood they plan to The full unexpurgated version of our fas- make the building part of the Forth- PLEASE NOTE cinating interview with Andrew Clyde Canal Attraction. All deals offered at lfw.co.uk and on Symington can be found at lfw.co.uk/swr. Pittyvaich the distillery (also pages 6 & 7 are valid for mail order cus- It’s twice as long as that published here closed 1993) has been demolished. tomers placing orders before noon on on page 2. Rome stands on seven hills, Dufftown FULL COLOUR! now stands on six stills. Macbrayne’s Distillery (page 9) is now Monday 17th December Those of you presently enjoying our tra- on its winter timetable. ditional black and white print of the This date is also the deadline for orders Scotch Whisky Review may like to ap- THE SCOTTISH FIELD being delivered in time for Christmas, preciate a glorious full colour version. however we can try after this date. This can be seen at lfw.co.uk/swr. Under MERCHANTS’ CHALLENGE the heading SWR18 you will find a link This is the second year for this interest- to down-load a printable ‘PDF’ version; ing whisky award organised by Scottish the file is 500kb in size. Field Magazine. ROYALTY! Last year three retailers from LFW, Royal Mile Whiskies and Gordon & Also on our website there are more sen- MacPhail conducted a blind tasting to sational pictures of Prince Charles re- make awards for the best malt whiskies ceiving his bottle of The Loch Fyne. in three price categories as well as an NAKED! overall winner (Bruichladdich 20yo). This year the judges are joined by The (Bit tenuous this). On-line at lfw.co.uk Whisky Shop and the December issue you will also find lots of pictures of na- we are giving away lists all our nomina- ked bottles—many standing next to tions, seven whiskies for each price their packaging but you can see every- group. thing! In November we are meeting at the new Ordering from lfw.co.uk [We have a vacancy for a headline writer.] Edinburgh whisky bar “M’s” for the On-line orders may not appear to include tasting accompanied by four mem- certain deals but be assured they will bers of the Scottish on-trade. The re- be included when serviced, if available. sults will be published in January with an award ceremony in April. Merry Christmas and a Good New Year You will be able to follow develop- to all our friends and customers. ments at lfw.co.uk/swr where last Once again, thank you year’s results are available. for your business.

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PAGE 12 SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW—Loch Fyne Whiskies, Inveraray, Argyll, PA32 8UD. www.LFW.co.uk