Rome Top Sights • Local Life • Made Easy
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ROME TOP SIGHTS • LOCAL LIFE • MADE EASY Duncan Garwood 0-title-this-book-contents-rom3.indd 1 4/07/2012 4:33:20 PM In This Book 16 Need to Know 17 18 Neighbourhoods 19 Before You Go Arriving in Rome Getting Around Tridente (p54) Villa Borghese & Trevi & the Designer stores and Need to Most visitors arrive at one of Rome’s two Public transport is cheap and reasonably Around (p154) Quirinale (p66) Your Daily Budget Rome swank bars set the tone airports: Leonardo da Vinci, also known efficient, although strikes, which are not Dominated by Villa A busy, hilly district, for this stylish, as Fiumicino, or Ciampino, the hub for uncommon, can cause chaos. Buy a one- or Borghese park, this home to Rome’s most Know Budget under €70 Neighbourhoods upmarket district European low-cost airlines – see www.adr.it. three-day pass to save time and money. For moneyed area has some famous fountain, Italy’s X Dorm beds €15–€35 centred on two striking QuickStart International trains serve Stazione Termini in information and a route planner see www superb cultural presidential palace and piazzas. For more information, see Survival X Pizza meal plus beer €15 the city centre. .atac.roma.it. offerings, including one several stellar art E of Rome’s top galleries. galleries. Guide (p ### ). X Drink coffee standing at the bar Vatican City & Prati Top Sights A From Aeroporto Internazionale m Metro (p136) E Top Sights E Top Sights X Eat with an aperitivo to save Spanish Steps & Piazza Currency Leonardo da Vinci (Fiumicino) The metro is the quickest way of getting Feast on extravagant art di Spagna Museo e Galleria Trevi Fountain Euros (€) Midrange €70–€200 Destination Best Transport around central Rome, although it’s of limited in the monumental Borghese use for the centro storico (historic centre). Vatican and excellent X Double room €120–€250 Monti & Leonardo Express train, Language Two lines A (orange) and B (blue) cross the food in neighbouring Esquilino then metro line A or B Italian X Three-course restaurant meal €30–€50 city in an X-shape, crossing at Stazione Prati. E# Monti & Esquilino Centro Storico Leonardo Express train, X B&Bs are often better value than hotels Termini. Services run 5.30am to 11.30pm (to E Top Sights Museo e (p78) Visas then bus 1.30am on Friday and Saturday). Galleria Boutiques and wine bars St Peter’s Basilica Not required by EU citizens. Not required Top End over €200 Vatican Spanish Steps & Borghese abound in Monti, while Trastevere FR1 train, then tram No 8 Piazza di Spagna by nationals of Australia, Canada, New J Bus Vatican Museums Museums # Esquilino offers X Double room €250 plus Vatican Leonardo Express train, E# E Zealand and the USA for stays of up to Chaotic traffic can slow buses, but they are multiculturalism and X City taxi ride €5–15 then metro line A E# Guide 90 days. still the best bet for the centro storico. Most several must-see E# E# X Auditorium concert tickets €25–90 Tridente Leonardo Express train, routes pass through Stazione Termini. Buses Centro Storico St Peter's Basilica museums and churches. # Trevi Museo Nazionale Money then metro line A run from 5.30am until midnight, with limited PantheonE E (p36) Fountain Romano: Palazzo Top Sights ATMs are widespread. Major credit cards services throughout the night. Remember Rome’s historic centre is Massimo alle Terme Museo Nazionale are widely accepted but some smaller to validate tickets in the yellow machines Useful Websites A From Aeroporto di Roma the capital’s thumping Romano: Palazzo shops and trattorias may not take them. on board. heart – a heady warren E# Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/rome) Ciampino Massimo alle Terme Keep cash for immediate expenses. of famous squares and E# Roman E# Colosseum Planning info, hotels and traveller forum. Tram Destination Best Transport U tangled lanes, galleries, Basilica di Forum Mobile Phones 060608 (www.060608.it) City tourist site. Monti & Terravision/SIT bus, then Tram No 8 is the most useful, connecting the restaurants and bars. Santa Maria E# Local SIM cards can be used in European, Esquilino metro line A or B centre with Trastevere over the river. Trams in Trastevere Celio & Lateran Pierreci (www.pierreci.it) Information and E Top Sights Basilica di Australian and unlocked US phones. Other are also useful for San Lorenzo and Pigneto. (p94) ticket booking for Rome’s monuments. Centro Storico Terravision/SIT bus, San Giovanni phones must be set to roaming. Pantheon Explore medieval then bus in Laterano Aventino & Vatican (www.vatican.va) Book tickets for K Taxi churches and escape Testaccio (p108) the Vatican Museums. Trastevere Terravision/SIT bus, the tourist crowds in the Your keys to under- Time Taxis are useful late at night when bus serv- Ancient Rome Ideal for a romantic then bus leafy Celio and Western European Time (GMT/UTC plus ices are slow and the metro has closed. Pick Trastevere & (p22) getaway, hilltop residential Lateran one hour) Vatican Terravision/SIT bus, then them up at a taxi rank or phone for one – try Gianicolo (p120) Rome’s ancient core is a Aventino rises above districts. Advance Planning metro line A taxi line (%060609). Surcharges apply Trastevere’s medieval beautiful area of Testaccio, famous for its Plugs & Adaptors after 10pm and for carrying luggage. evocative ruins, E Top Sights Two months Book high- season rooms. Tridente Terravision/SIT bus, then streets heave with nose-to-tail cooking and Plugs have two or three round pins; electricity metro line A kicking bars and improbable legends, thumping nightlife. Basilica di San Giovanni One to two weeks Reserve tables at A-list is 220V to 230V; North American travellers eateries. The Gianicolo soaring pine trees and in Laterano will require an adaptor and transformer. restaurants. Sort out tickets to the pope’s offers to-die-for panoramic views. E# weekly audience at St Peter’s. Appian L From Stazione Termini panoramas. E Top Sights Tipping Way Worth a Trip Few days Phone for tickets for the Museo e Airport buses and trains, and international E Top Sights Colosseum Not obligatory but round up the bill in pizzerias Galleria Borghese and book for the Vatican trains, arrive at Stazione Termini. From here E Top Sights Basilica di Santa Maria standing the city – or leave about 5%; 10% is normal in upmarket Museums. you can take metro line A or B or pick up a Roman Forum in Trastevere Appian Way restaurants. bus to all main neighbourhoods. Taxis are available outside the main entrance. we help you decide what to do and how Need to Know Neighbourhoods to do it Tips for a What’s where smooth trip 142 Vatican City & Prati Vatican Museums 143 92 Worth a Trip San Lorenzo & Il Pigneto 93 y Top Tips 1 Basilica di San Lorenzo district to bohemian enclave, century- old Pommidoro (%06 445 26 92; Piazza Don’t Miss f The museums are Fuori-le-Mura Top Sights Local Life The starkly beautiful Basilica di dei Sanniti 44; meals €40; hMon-Sat; gVia Sistine Chapel free on the last Sunday San Lorenzo Fuori-le-Mura (Piazzale Tiburtina) is a much-loved local institu- Vatican Museums Named after Pope Sixtus IV, the 15th-century of the month, 9am to San Lorenzo & Il Pigneto 2pm. San Lorenzo; h8am-noon & 4-6.30pm; tion specialising in classic Roman Sistine Chapel (Cappella Sistina) is home to sits on St pastas and delicious grilled meats. Visiting the Vatican Museums (Musei Vaticani) o Map p 148 , C3 gPiazzale del Verano) two of the world’s most famous works of art – f To avoid the queues Lawrence’s burial place. Highlights is a thrilling and unforgettable experience. The Michelangelo’s ceiling frescoes and his %06 6988 4676 Giudizio book tickets/guided include the Cosmati Á oor and the 5 Hang Out at Necci highlight is the Michelangelo-decorated Sistine Universale (Last Judgment). It also serves an tours online (http:// Start your exploration of bar-studded Getting There A lively student quarter, San Lorenzo is a metro- 13th-century frescoed portico. Next Chapel but with some 7km of exhibitions and mv.vatican.va important religious function as the chapel where biglietteriamusei. Pigneto at iconic Necci (Via Fanfulla da politan mix of graffiti-clad streets, artists studios, door, the Cimitero di Campo Verano more masterpieces than many small countries, the papal conclave meets to elect a new pope. vatican.va/musei/ Lodi 68; gCirconvallazione Casilina). The Explore Viale Vaticano J Bus Take bus 7 or cheap takeaways and hip restaurants. Apart from a (Piazzale del Verano; h7.30am-6pm, to 7pm there’s enough art on display to keep you busy tickets). old stomping ground of cinema great 492 to San Lorenzo; major basilica, there are few traditional sights, but summer; gPiazzale del Verano), Rome’s for years – it’s said that if you spent one minute Sistine Chapel Ceiling Frescoes adult/reduced €15/8 f Time your visit to mini- buses 81, 810, 105 and come evening the area bursts into life. Southeast, largest cemetery, is a strangely moving Pier Paolo Pasolini, this laid-back on every exhibit it would take you 12 years to see Painted between 1508 and 1512, the 800-sq-m mise waiting: Wednes- n12 serve Pigneto. the former working-class Pigneto district is now place. cafe caters to an eclectic crowd of all everything. Housing everything is the 5.5-hectare h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, frescoes represent nine scenes from the book of day mornings are good; one of the capital’s coolest, a bar-heavy pocket ages, who come to down beers on the Palazzo Apostolico Vaticano, which also serves as ticket o ce closes 4pm j Tram Take tram 3 Genesis.