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Home , Campo Verano, Piazza della Minerva, Sistine Chapel

TOP SIGHTS • LOCAL LIFE • MADE EASY

Duncan Garwood

0--this-book-contents-rom3.indd 1 4/07/2012 4:33:20 PM In This Book

16 Need to Know 17 18 Neighbourhoods 19

Before You Go Arriving in Rome Getting Around Tridente (p54) Villa Borghese & Trevi & the Designer stores and Need to Most visitors arrive at one of Rome’s two Public transport is cheap and reasonably Around (p154) Quirinale (p66) Your Daily Budget Rome swank bars set the tone airports: Leonardo da Vinci, also known efficient, although strikes, which are not Dominated by Villa A busy, hilly district, for this stylish, as Fiumicino, or Ciampino, the hub for uncommon, can cause chaos. Buy a one- or Borghese park, this home to Rome’s most Know Budget under €70 Neighbourhoods upmarket district European low-cost airlines – see www.adr.it. three- pass to save time and money. For moneyed area has some famous fountain, ’s X Dorm beds €15–€35 centred on two striking QuickStart International trains serve Stazione Termini in information and a route planner see www superb cultural presidential palace and piazzas. For more information, see Survival X Pizza meal plus beer €15 the city centre. .atac.roma.it. offerings, including one several stellar E of Rome’s top galleries. galleries. Guide (p ### ). X Drink coffee standing at the bar & Prati Top Sights A From Aeroporto Internazionale m Metro (p136) E Top Sights E Top Sights X Eat with an aperitivo to save & Piazza Currency Leonardo da Vinci (Fiumicino) The metro is the quickest way of getting Feast on extravagant art di Spagna Museo e Galleria Euros (€) Midrange €70–€200 Destination Best Transport around central Rome, although it’s of limited in the monumental Borghese use for the centro storico (historic centre). Vatican and excellent X Double room €120–€250 Monti & Leonardo Express train, Language Two lines A (orange) and B (blue) cross the food in neighbouring Esquilino then metro line A or B Italian X Three-course restaurant meal €30–€50 city in an X-shape, crossing at Stazione Prati. E# Monti & Esquilino Centro StoricoLeonardo Express train, X B&Bs are often better value than hotels Termini. Services run 5.30am to 11.30pm (to E Top Sights Museo e (p78) Visas then bus 1.30am on Friday and Saturday). Galleria Boutiques and wine bars St Peter’s Basilica Not required by EU citizens. Not required Top End over €200 Vatican Spanish Steps & Borghese abound in Monti, while Trastevere FR1 train, then tram No 8 by nationals of Australia, Canada, New J Bus Museums # Esquilino offers X Double room €250 plus Vatican Leonardo Express train, E# E Zealand and the USA for stays of up to Chaotic traffic can slow buses, but they are multiculturalism and X City taxi ride €5–15 then metro line A E# Guide 90 days. still the best bet for the centro storico. Most several must-see E# E# X Auditorium concert tickets €25–90 Tridente Leonardo Express train, routes pass through Stazione Termini. Buses Centro Storico St Peter's Basilica museums and churches. # Trevi Museo Nazionale Money then metro line A run from 5.30am until midnight, with limited PantheonE E (p36) Fountain Romano: Palazzo Top Sights ATMs are widespread. Major credit cards services throughout the . Remember Rome’s historic centre is Massimo alle Terme Museo Nazionale are widely accepted but some smaller to validate tickets in the yellow machines Useful Websites A From Aeroporto di Roma the capital’s thumping Romano: Palazzo shops and trattorias may not take them. on board. heart – a heady warren E# Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/rome) Ciampino Massimo alle Terme Keep cash for immediate expenses. of famous squares and E# Roman E# Planning info, hotels and traveller forum. Tram Destination Best Transport U tangled lanes, galleries, Basilica di Forum Mobile Phones 060608 (www.060608.it) City tourist site. Monti & Terravision/SIT bus, then Tram No 8 is the most useful, connecting the restaurants and bars. Santa Maria E# Local SIM cards can be used in European, Esquilino metro line A or B centre with Trastevere over the river. Trams in Trastevere Celio & Lateran Pierreci (www.pierreci.it) Information and E Top Sights Basilica di Australian and unlocked US phones. Other are also useful for San Lorenzo and Pigneto. (p94) ticket booking for Rome’s monuments. Centro StoricoTerravision/SIT bus, San Giovanni phones must be set to roaming. Pantheon Explore medieval then bus in Laterano Aventino & Vatican (www.vatican.va) Book tickets for K Taxi churches and escape Testaccio (p108) the Vatican Museums. Trastevere Terravision/SIT bus, the tourist crowds in the Your keys to under- Time Taxis are useful late at night when bus serv- Ancient Rome Ideal for a romantic then bus leafy Celio and Western European Time (GMT/UTC plus ices are slow and the metro has closed. Pick Trastevere & (p22) getaway, hilltop residential Lateran one hour) Vatican Terravision/SIT bus, then them up at a taxi rank or phone for one – try Gianicolo (p120) Rome’s ancient core is a Aventino rises above districts. Advance Planning metro line A taxi line (%060609). Surcharges apply Trastevere’s medieval beautiful area of Testaccio, famous for its Plugs & Adaptors evocative ruins, E Two months Book high-season rooms. Tridente Terravision/SIT bus, then after 10pm and for carrying luggage. streets heave with nose-to-tail cooking and Top Sights Plugs have two or three round pins; electricity metro line A kicking bars and improbable legends, thumping nightlife. Basilica di San Giovanni One to two weeks Reserve tables at A-list is 220V to 230V; North American travellers eateries. The Gianicolo soaring pine trees and in Laterano will require an adaptor and transformer. restaurants. Sort out tickets to the ’s offers to-die-for panoramic views. E# weekly audience at St Peter’s. Appian L From Stazione Termini panoramas. E Top Sights Tipping Way Worth a Trip Few days Phone for tickets for the Museo e Airport buses and trains, and international E Top Sights Colosseum Not obligatory but round up the bill in pizzerias and book for the Vatican trains, arrive at Stazione Termini. From here E Top Sights Basilica di Santa Maria standing the city – or leave about 5%; 10% is normal in upmarket Museums. you can take metro line A or B or pick up a in Trastevere restaurants. bus to all main neighbourhoods. Taxis are available outside the main entrance. we help you decide what to do and how Need to Know Neighbourhoods to do it Tips for a What’s where smooth trip

142 Vatican City & Prati Vatican Museums 143 92 Worth a Trip San Lorenzo & Il Pigneto 93

y Top Tips 1 Basilica di San Lorenzo district to bohemian enclave, century- old Pommidoro (%06 445 26 92; Piazza Don’t Miss f The museums are Fuori-le-Mura Top Sights Local Life The starkly beautiful Basilica di dei Sanniti 44; meals €40; hMon-Sat; gVia Sistine free on the last Sunday San Lorenzo Fuori-le-Mura (Piazzale Tiburtina) is a much-loved local institu- Vatican Museums Named after Pope Sixtus IV, the 15th-century of the month, 9am to San Lorenzo & Il Pigneto 2pm. San Lorenzo; h8am-noon & 4-6.30pm; tion specialising in classic Roman (Cappella Sistina) is home to sits on St pastas and delicious grilled meats. Visiting the Vatican Museums (Musei Vaticani) o Map p 148 , C3 gPiazzale del Verano) two of the world’s most famous works of art – f To avoid the queues Lawrence’s burial place. Highlights is a thrilling and unforgettable experience. The Michelangelo’s ceiling frescoes and his %06 6988 4676 Giudizio book tickets/guided include the Cosmati Á oor and the 5 Hang Out at Necci highlight is the Michelangelo-decorated Sistine Universale (). It also serves an tours online (http:// Start your exploration of bar-studded Getting There A lively student quarter, San Lorenzo is a metro- 13th-century frescoed portico. Next Chapel but with some 7km of exhibitions and mv.vatican.va important religious function as the chapel where biglietteriamusei. Pigneto at iconic Necci (Via Fanfulla da politan mix of graffiti-clad streets, artists studios, door, the Cimitero di more masterpieces than many small countries, the meets to elect a new pope. vatican.va/musei/ Lodi 68; g Circonvallazione Casilina). The Explore Viale Vaticano J Bus Take bus 7 or cheap takeaways and hip restaurants. Apart from a (Piazzale del Verano; h7.30am-6pm, to 7pm there’s enough art on display to keep you busy tickets). 492 to San Lorenzo; summer; gPiazzale del Verano), Rome’s old stomping ground of cinema great for years – it’s said that if you spent one minute Frescoes major basilica, there are few traditional sights, but adult/reduced €15/8 f Time your visit to mini- buses 81, 810, 105 and come evening the area bursts into life. Southeast, largest cemetery, is a strangely moving Pier Paolo Pasolini, this laid-back on every exhibit it would take you 12 years to see Painted between 1508 and 1512, the 800-sq-m mise waiting: Wednes- n12 serve Pigneto. the former working-class Pigneto district is now place. cafe caters to an eclectic crowd of all everything. Housing everything is the 5.5-hectare h 9am-6pm Mon-Sat, frescoes represent nine scenes from the book of day mornings are good; one of the capital’s coolest, a bar-heavy pocket ages, who come to down beers on the Palazzo Apostolico Vaticano, which also serves as ticket o՗ ce closes 4pm j Tram Take tram 3 Genesis. The most famous panel is the Creation the afternoon is better frequented by bohemians, fun seekers and trend- Chocolate at Said Antica terrace or tuck into hearty grub to the the pope’s o՗ cial residence. for San Lorenzo, and 2 m Ottaviano-San Pietro of Adam which shows God pointing his index than the morning; avoid sounds of Little Tony jukebox tunes. tram 5, 14 or 19 for setting urbanites. Fabbrica del Cioccolato À gure at Adam, thus bringing him to life. Fram- Mondays when many Pigneto. For a change of scene, search out Said ing the scenes are muscular ignudi, athletic male Wine at Vini e Olii other museums are shut. Antica Fabbrica del Cioccolato (www 6 nudes.

/LONELY PLANET IMAGES © Continue your bar-hopping with f The Guide to the .said.it; Via Tiburtina 135; h10am-12.30am 1111111111000 a glass of vino at 000 Mon-Sat; gVia Tiburtina). A delicious Vini e Olii (Via del Vatican Museums and a1111111111000 Sistine Chapel, Giudizio Universale n00 00000 Pigneto 18; g Circonvallazione Casilina), City (€12) is a sound e# 0 500 m 000001111111111#æ1 00000 hideaway set in a 1920s factory, it’s Covering the Sistine Chapel’s 200-sq-m west wall, 0 0.25 miles 000rti 001111111111 a traditional ‘wine and oil’ shop on investment, as exhibits bu0001111111111 part shop – selling all sorts of exotic Michelangelo’s highly-charged Giudizio Univer- V 00 i 000Piazzale del Verano i 00 T 1111111111 Pigneto’s main pedestrianised drag. Rome are not well labelled. a 00 a Cimitero chocs – and part mod-creative restau- M i 1111111111 sale (Last Judgement; 1535–1541) depicts the souls a V a It’s all very spit-and-sawdust, with rs V 1111111111di Campo in rant (meals €50). a i t of the dead being torn from their graves to face l 00 a 1111111111Verano r outdoor seating, cheap booze and a 00 #æ2 #æ d u 00 #3 1111111111b the wrath of God. When it was unveiled, 000 00SAN e Ti 5 Take a Break 000 00 i 1111111111 tasty porchetta (herby, spit-roasted 000 R ne 3 Modern Art at Pastificio 000 LORENZO #æ4 e1111111111o its swirling of naked bodies caused contro- 000 t zi pork). 000 000 i 1111111111lla Cerere There’s a self-service 000 00 000 lli va versy – Pope Pius IV later had 00 000 e lo o 1111111111Circon 00 000ab a z San Lorenzo’s boho credentials restaurant and bar near 00 000S c n add À g leaves and loincloths. i S 7 A Gig at Circolo degli Artisti de re express themselves to the full at the the Pinacoteca, and an- V ia ia o ia V V L For the day’s rousing À nale catch 000 S Sistine Chapel, Wall Frescoes other bar on the stairs 000ESQUILINO Gio PastiÀ cio Cerere (www.pastiÀ ciocerere 000 lit a gig at the Circolo degli Artisti (www 000 t .com; Via degli Ausoni 7; gVia Tiburtina), a Part of the original chapel decoration, these were to the Sistine Chapel. 000 Via Ema i former pasta factory turned contem- .circoloartisti.it; Via Casilina Vecchia 42; painted between 1481 and 1482 by a crack team But for a real taste to F il gVia Casilina). East of Pigneto, this i porary art collective. Home to artists of Renaissance artists, including Botticelli, Ghir- remember leave the 0000 berto Piazza00000 di kicking club oՖ ers one of Rome’s best 0000 nuele 00000 studios, a gallery and courtyard space, landaio, , Perugino and Luca Signore- museums and head to 0000 Porta00000 V Vi ia ione nights out, with top live music from 00000 Pr a The best things to Maggiore enestina d it hosts regular exhibitions. 00000 Pizzarium (p150 ), one az F lli. They represent events in the lives of (to 00000 a ¡# ll an Italian and international bands, crack- 00000 L

of Rome’s best pizza 0 00000 o the left looking at the Giudizio Universale) and 0 Manzoni ia 00000 f 0 til d u ing DJ turns and a large garden area a onva l Dining at Pommidoro t i 4 S to V l al taglio (pizza by the t i a Christ (to the right). ia a silina for outdoor beers. Admission is either V #æ irc 0000 Ca 6 Unchanged throughout San Lorenzo’s C slice) joints. 0000 s V Ca oniamo 0000 ili ia Via #æ5 free or a bargain. Acquedo 0000 na C de metamorphosis from working-class 0000000000 Ner 0000 a l Pign 0000000000 0000 s eto 0000000000LATERAN Via La ili 000000000000000 TUSCOLANO na Spiral staircase at the Vatican Museum 000000000000000 Spezia #æ7 IL PIGNETO 000000000000000 0000000000 0000000000 0000000000 0000000000 00 see and do, 0000000000 00 neighbourhood by Top Sights Local Life neighbourhood Make the most The insider's city of your visit

168 Piazzas of Rome 169 180 Best Shopping Best Shopping 181

1 Largo di Torre 4 Piazza della central Rome’s great on Campo de’ Fiori Argentina Rotonda showpiece square. Here, (p 47). By day, this noisy

among the street artists, square stages a colour- JEAN-PIERRE LESCOURRET/LONELY PLANET IMAGES © Best Walks Start oՖ in Largo di A short stroll down Via Best tourists and pigeons, ful market, but at night Piazzas of Rome Torre Argentina, set del Seminario brings Shopping around the sunken ruins you to the bustling, you can compare the it transforms into a two giants of Roman raucous open-air pub. WILL SALTER/LONELY PLANET IMAGES © of four Republic-era cafe-À lled Piazza (see p 73 ) – temples. On the piazza’s della Rotonda, where Rome boasts the usual cast of Á agship chain , 2 The Walk western Á ank, the Teatro the Pantheon (p 38 ) 7 stores and glitzy designer outlets, but what creator of the Fontana Rome’s tightly packed historic centre boasts some Argentina (p52 ) sits on needs no introduction. Just beyond the Campo, makes it so special is its legion of small, inde- , and of the city’s most celebrated piazzas, and several the site where Julius Rome’s best-preserved dei Quattro Fiumi Piazza Farnese is a re- pendent shops – historic, family-owned delis, beautiful but lesser known squares. Each has its Caesar was assassinated. ancient building is Francesco Borromini, À ned square overlooked picture-framers, dusty furniture workshops, own character – the baroque splendour of Piazza one of the city’s iconic author of the Chiesa di by the Renaissance small-label fashion boutiques and artists studios. The Best Navona, the bawdy clamour of Campo de’ Fiori, the 2 Piazza della sights with its epic Sant’Agnese in Agone. (p 47). Adding to the fun are the much-frequented Renaissance elegance of Piazza Farnese – but to- Minerva portico and record- This magniÀ cent pal- neighbourhood markets selling everything from gether they encapsulate much of the city’s beauty, 6 Campo de’ Fiori second-hand jeans to bumper produce from Head along Via dei breaking dome. azzo, now home to the history and drama. Take this tour to discover the local farms. Top Tips Cestari until you come On the other side French embassy, boasts y best of them and enjoy the area’s vibrant street life. of Corso Vittorio some superb frescoes, to 5 f Many shops are Best Fashion Best Shoes & Best Food & Wine Emanuele II, the busy said by some to rival Start ; gjLargo di Torre and the Elefantino (p45 ), Shopping Areas closed on Monday Abito (p 90 ) Chic female Accessories Volpetti (p116 ) Foodies From the Pantheon, road that bisects the those of the Sistine Argentina a sculpture of a puzzled For designer clothes head to Via dei Condotti (Map morning. fashions at this cool Borini (p 52 ) Locals head rate this lavish deli as follow the signs to centro storico (historic Chapel. elephant carrying an p 58 , C4) and the area around Piazza di Spagna. Monti boutique. to this low-key shop for one of the best in town. Finish Piazza Farnese; gCorso Vittorio Emanuele II Piazza Navona (p 44 ), centre), life is focused f Make sure you Egyptian obelisk. Flank- You’ll À nd vintage shops and fashion boutiques on Eleonora (p64 ) Popular the latest shoes. Confetteria Moriondo 000 000 take the receipt Length 1.5km; two to three hours ing the square, the Goth- 000 000 000000 Via del Governo Vecchio (Map p42 , A4) in the cen- with fashionistas in the Fausto Santini (p64 ) A & Gariglio (p52 ) A 000000 00000000 000 000000 when you buy ic Chiesa di Santa Maria 000000 00000000 000 000000 tro storico, and in the Monti district. Testaccio is a upmarket Tridente shop- boutique with designer historic chocolate shop 000 000000 000 000000ni something. 000 000000 000 000000ti Chiesa di Sopra Minerva boasts 000 00 000 000000s good bet for foodie purchases, with one of Rome’s ping district. footwear and eye- straight out of central 5 Take a Break 000#æ5 00 0000 Pa000000Sant'Ignazio Renaissance frescoes and 00 000 00 0000Via dei 0000000000 f Tax rebates are catching bags. casting. Between the Pantheon and Piazza Navona, the 00 000Fontana 0000 0000000#æ3 di Loyola best delis and a vibrant morning market. Arsenale (p52 ) Artistic 00 Chiesa di 000 0000Via del Seminario0000000# of Rome a minor Michelangelo. 00 000# dei Quattro00 0000#æ4 0000000 available to non-EU Sant'Agnese#000 00 0000 000Sa La Cravatta su Misura Antica Caciara Traste- Caffè Sant’Eustachio (p 50 ) is a good bet for a 000Fiumi Via00 degli 000 clothes at the atelier of n Artisans residents who spend in Agone 000 00000000 000 Vi 000 verina (p134 ) A Traste- quick pit stop. Its coffee is reckoned by many to be 000 Sta000000derari # Chiesa di Santa t'Ig 000 local designer Patrizia (p 134 ) Bespoke ties for 00000 000 000000Pantheon di a 000 more than €155 in the best in the capital. 3 Piazza di 00000 000 000000Piazza Maria Sopra n 000 Rome has a surprising number of designers and the well-groomed mod- vere deli celebrated for azi Pieroni. 00000 000 000000 000# Sant’Ignazio Loyola 00000 000 Sant'Eustachio000000 Elefantino000 Minerva 000000 artisans, who create and sell their goods in small, shops displaying a its fab fresh cheeses. 00000 000 000 000000 000 # 000000o ern gentleman. Vi #æ2 00000 000 000 000000 000 000000o Tax Free sticker. Bomba (p64 ) A discreet

00000 000 000 a 000000 000000 000000 Strike oՖ down Via Cors 000 000000 000000‚ 000000arm old-fashioned workshops. There are places you can i M Fabriano (p64 ) For M 000000 000000i V o Vit 000r 000000iè d showcase for high-quality adeia t a l P get a bag, wallet or belt made to your speciÀ ca- ori e e Santa Caterina da Siena, t e d sty lish stationery and Best Markets o V i V Em l V 000000000 s knitwear and modish ia Piazza o 000000000anuele II i 0000

e d Via Santa a tions or order a tailored tie or dress. You’ll À nd then take Via del Piè el 000000000 0000n 0000ll accessories – notebooks di San C aG P 000000000 0000e d 0000 accessories. (p135 )

i LEWIS/LONELY PLANET IMAGES © e 000000000 0000 Caterina 00000000000000 lle el 000000000Pantaleo0000 e 00000000000000 a number of these shops in the centro storico, to smartphone sleeves di Marmo and Via di i att g 000000000 0000 d da Siena 00000000000000 Rome’s historic Sunday- r G ri 000000000a 0000 Largo di 00000000000000 Gente (p64 ) Big-name

n l a a l e e Tridente and Monti areas. 000000000 i 0000000000 and jewellery. Sant’Ignazio to reach the o u 0000 Torre n s morning flea market on 000000000000 0000i 0000000000 a V o 00000000000000o r 000000 ù 0000000000it fashion brands at this B i isc 00000000000000 a Argentina000000 0000000000b exquisite 18th-century i c le 00000000000000000 v 000000 P 0000000000 Furla (p65 ) Colourful the banks of the . The city’s e s el 00000000000000000d 00i a 000000#æ 0000 d 0000000000 Sales glitzy department store.

i 1 a 00000000a B Teatro 000000 0000Vi 0000000000 Piazza di Sant’Ignazio 00000000i 0 l 00h 000000 0000 0000000000 bags, sunglasses and Piazza V e # Mercato di Testaccio 000000000#æ 00 C Argentina000000 0000 0000000000 Winter sales (saldi) run from early January to

Loyola (p45 ). Overlook- 00000000006 d 00 i ¤# 0000 0000000000 wallets all bear the popu-

Farnese000000000ia 00 e 0000 0000000000 (p117 ) As authentic a

000000000V 00 d Largo 0000 0000000000 mid-February, and summer sales from July to early ing the piazza, the 0000#æ7 00000 000 000 0000 0000000000 lar Furla name. 0000# 000ia 000Arenula 0000000000 neighbourhood market

0000 V 000 0000000000 September. Chiesa di Sant’Ignazio 0000 000Via Florida 0000000000 as you’ll find in Rome. V 0000Palazzo000 Farnese 00 000 0000000000 di Loyola features a i 000 00 000 0000000000 a 000 00000 000 0000000000 magical trompe l’œil Gi 000 000 0000000000 0000000000 ul 000 000 0000000000 0 0000000000200 m 000 i e# ceiling . a 000000 0000000 0 0.10000000000 miles 000 Flower stall in Campo de’ Fiori (p47) 000000 0000000000000 0000000000000 00000 000 0000000000000000 00 0000000000 00000 000 0000000 00 00 0000000000000 00000 000000000 0000000 00 00 000 highlights 00000 000000 000 000 000 00000 000000 000 000 00000 000000 000 000 in handy lists Best Walks Rome’s Best… to help you plan See the city on foot The best experiences

192 Survival Guide Getting Around 193 196 Survival Guide Essential Information 197

Elegant convent conver- Leonardo Express train 2.15am, 3.30am and 5am you catch a Comune di €3.90/6.90) Runs 15 lines or take a bus from ¨ Discount cards can be Electricity Emergency Credit Cards Diners Club (%800 39 sion in Trastevere. (adult/child €14/free) and from Tiburtina at Roma taxi. A typical jour- daily services to/from Via the bus station on Piazza Essential purchased at any of the ¨ Virtually all midrange 39 39) museums or monuments Ambulance (%118) Portrait Suites (www Runs to/from Stazione 12.30am, 1.15am, 2.30am ney to the centre takes Giolitti near Stazione Ter- dei Cinquecento out front. Information and top-end hotels MasterCard (%800 87 Single tickets cost €1 listed. The Roma Pass is Fire (%115) .portraitsuites.com) Exclu- Termini. Departures from and 3.45am. Journey time 45 to 60 minutes. mini. Also buses to/from accept credit cards, as 08 66) also available at tourist sive residence owned by the airport every 30 is one hour. Buy tickets at Anagnina metro station Taxis line up outside Police (%113) do most restaurants Business Hours information kiosks. Visa (%800 819 014) Ferragamo family. minutes between 6.38am newsagents or tobac- (€1.20) and Ciampino the main exit/entrance. and large shops. Some Aeroporto di Roma Assume about €10 to a In this book, opening Villa Laetitia (www. and 11.38pm, from Ter- conists or, at the airport, train station (€1.20) ¨ EU citizens aged be- Money cheaper pensioni, trat- Ciampino central Rome address. hours are only given Money Changers villalaetitia.com) Romantic mini between 5.52am and at the Autogrill or Ferretti where you can connect tween 18 and 25 qualify y Top Tip The daily cash torias and pizzerias only The best option is to when they diՖ er from ¨ There are exchange riverside villa with Fendi for a discount at most withdrawal limit at ATMs accept cash. Don’t rely on 10.52pm. Journey time tobacconist. take one of the regular with services to Stazione these standards. booths at Stazione Ter- decor. galleries and museums. is €250. credit cards at museums is 30 minutes. Purchase SIT bus (%06 591 68 26; bus services into the city Termini (€1.30). mini (Map p 82 , F2) and at Villa Spalletti Trivelli Banks 8.30am-1.30pm Under 18s and over 65s Italy uses the euro. Euro or galleries. tickets from vending centre. You can also take (www.villaspalletti.it) Glori- www.sitbusshuttle.it; one way Airport Connection and 2.45pm-4.30pm notes come in denomi- Fiumicino and Ciampino often get in free. In both ¨ Major cards such Survival machines in the arrivals €8) From the airport regu- a bus to Ciampino station Services (%06 338 32 21; airports. ous mansion overlooking Getting Monday to Friday. cases you’ll need proof of nations of €500, €200, hall and train station, and then pick up a train as Visa, MasterCard, Quirinale gardens. lar departures between www.airportconnection.it) age, ideally a passport or €100, €50, €20, €10 and ¨ Take your passport, or from ticket o՗ ces and to Stazione Termini. Bars and cafes 7.30am- Eurocard, Cirrus and 181 (www.rome 8.30am and 12.30am Transfers to/from the city Around ID card. €5; coins in denomina- photo ID, when exchang- tabacchi (newsagents). 8pm, sometimes until Eurocheques are widely luxurysuites.com/babuino) to Via Marsala outside Terravision bus (www centre start at €37 per tions of €2 and €1, and ing money. Rome is a sprawling city, 1am or 2am. Archaeologia Card (adult/ accepted. Amex is also Discreet, modern luxury FR1 train (one way €8) Stazione Termini, from .terravision.eu; one way/ person. 50, 20, 10, À ve, two and but the historic centre is reduced €23/12) Valid seven recognised, although it’s on smart shopping street. Connects the airport to Termini between 9.30am return €4/8) Twice hourly Shops 9am-7.30pm or 230V/50Hz one cents. Tipping Airport Shuttle (%06 relatively compact and days. Gives entrance to less common than Visa or Hotel Sant’Anselmo and 1.10am. Tickets avail- departures to/from Via 10am-8pm Mon-Sat, In restaurants where Trastevere, Ostiense and 4201 3469; www.airportshut- it’s quite possible to ex- Admission Prices MasterCard. (www.aventinohotels.com) Marsala outside Stazione the Colosseum, Palatino, a service fee is not Tiburtina stations, but able on the bus. Journey tle.it) Transfers to/from plore much of it on foot. some 11am-7pm Sun; Romantic hideaway in the Termini. From the airport Terme di Caracalla, Mu- ¨ In this book admission ¨ In case of emergency included, it’s customary not Termini. Departures time is one hour. your hotel for €25 for one The city’s public trans- smaller shops 9am-1pm graceful Aventino district. seo Nazionale Romano, charges are given for call to have your card to leave a 10% tip. Round- from the airport every 15 services are from 8.05am port system includes and 3.30pm-7.30pm (or Airport Connection person, then €5 for each Mausoleo di Cecilia Metel- adults and reduced. blocked: to 12.05am, from Via 4pm-8pm) Monday to ing your taxi fare to the minutes (hourly on Sun- Services (%06 338 32 21; additional passenger up buses, trams, metro and la and Villa dei Quintili. Marsala between 4.30am ¨ Reduced admission is Amex (%06 7290 0347) nearest euro will su՗ ce. day and public holidays) www.airportconnection.it) to a maximum of eight. a suburban train system. Saturday. and 9.20pm. Buy tickets at Roma Pass (www.romapass typically for EU citizens Guide between 5.58am and Transfers to/from the city Tickets, which come in Clubs 10pm-4am. Taxi The set rate between between 18 and 24, or, in 11.28pm, from Ostiense Terracafè in front of the Via various forms, are valid .it; €30) Valid three days. centre start at €37 per some cases, for EU resi- Arriving in Marsala bus stop. Journey the city centre and the for all forms of transport. Restaurants noon-3pm Includes free admission between 5.18am and person. dents between six and 25 Money Saving Tips time is 40 minutes. airport is €30. It typically and 7.30pm-11pm (later to two museums or sites, Rome 10.48pm. Purchase and over 65. Airport Shuttle (%06 takes 30 to 45 minutes. Metro in summer). reduced entry to extra ¨ Visit the Vatican Museums on the last Sunday tickets from vending SIT bus (www.sitbusshuttle of the month – they’re free. 4201 3469; www.airportshuttle y Best for… avoiding sites and events, and un- y Top Tip For the best machines in the arrivals .com; one way/return €6/8) ATMs .it) Transfers to/from tra՗ c jams and getting Discount Cards limited public transport ¨ Visit during Settimana della Cultura (Culture way to get to your accom- hall and train station, Regular departures from Stazione Termini & ¨ ATMs (known as banco- your hotel for €25 for one around quickly. y Top Tip If you use within Rome. Week) when most state museums are free. modation see p 17 . from ticket o՗ ces and Bus Station mat) are widely available person, then €6 for each the airport to Via Marsala the Roma Pass for more from tabacchi. Stazione Termini (Map ¨ Rome’s two main metro and most will accept ¨ Look out for free concerts during festivals. Tips and tricks additional passenger up to outside Stazione Ter- expensive sights such as lines, Linea A (orange) Aeroporto Interna- p 82 , F2) is Rome’s main the cards tied into the Visa, ¨ Fill up on art at Rome’s churches – they’re all Cotral bus (www.cotralspa a maximum of eight. mini between 7.45am and zionale Leonardo train and transport hub, and Linea B (blue), cross (Musei Capitolini), it’s real MasterCard, Cirrus and .it; one way €4.50, if purchased 11.15pm and from Termini free. da Vinci (Fiumicino) Taxi The set fare to/ with regular services at Termini, the only point value for money. 230V/50Hz Maestro systems. on bus €7) Runs to/from between 4.30am and ¨ Buy a Roma Pass if you want to blitz the sights. from the city centre is connecting to other Euro- at which you can change The easiest way to get 9.30pm. Tickets available ¨ Always let your bank Stazione Tiburtina via pean destinations, major from one line to the other. ¨ from the airport is by €48, which is valid for up know when you’re going Lunch on sliced pizza and ice cream; dine on Stazione Termini. Eight on the bus. Journey time Italian cities and many The much-delayed Linea bar snacks over an aperitivo (aperitif). train but there are also to four passengers with abroad, in case they block daily departures includ- is 45 minutes. smaller towns. C (green), which will bus services and private luggage. Taxis registered your card when payments ¨ Drink coՖ ee standing at the bar rather than ing night services from From Termini, you can cross Linea A at Ottavi- shuttle services. in Fiumicino charge a set Cotral bus (www.cotralspa appear from unusual sitting at a table. the airport at 1.15am, connect onto both metro ano and San Giovanni and for a seamless, fare of €60, so make sure .it; one way/return locations. hassle-free city Getting Around Essential Information experience Travel like a local Including where to stay

0-title-this-book-contents-rom3.indd 2 4/07/2012 4:33:25 PM Our selection of the city’s best places to Lonely Planet’s eat, drink and experience: Rome 1 Sights Lonely Planet Pocket Guides are designed to get you 5 Eating straight to the heart of the city. Inside you’ll find all the 6 Drinking must-see sights, plus tips to make your visit to each one 3 Entertainment really memorable. We’ve split the city into easy-to-navigate 7 Shopping neighbourhood s and provided clear maps so you’ll find your way around with ease. Our These symbols give you the vital expert authors have searched information for each listing: out the best of the city: walks, food, nightlife and shopping, % Telephone Numbers c Family-Friendly to name a few. Because you h Opening Hours # Pet-Friendly want to explore, our ‘Local Life’ p Parking g Bus pages will take you to some n Nonsmoking f Ferry i Internet Access m Metro of the most exciting areas to W Wi-Fi Access b Subway experience the real Rome . v Vegetarian Selection j Tram And of course you’ll find all E English-Language d Train the practical tips you need for Menu a smooth trip: itineraries for short visits, how to get around, and how much to tip the guy who serves you a drink at the Find each listing quickly on maps end of a long day’s exploration. for each neighbourhood : It’s your guarantee of a

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0-title-this-book-contents-rom3.indd 3 4/07/2012 4:33:29 PM QuickStart Explore Guide 7 Rome 21 Rome Top Sights ...... 8 22 Ancient Rome Rome Local Life ...... 12

Rome Day Planner ...... 14 36 Centro Storico Need to Know ...... 16 Rome Neighbourhoods ...... 18 54 Tridente

66 Trevi & the Quirinale

78 Monti & Esquilino

94 Celio & Lateran

108 Aventino & Testaccio

120 Trastevere & Gianicolo

136 Vatican City & Prati

154 Villa Borghese & Around

Worth a Trip: San Lorenzo & Il Pigneto ...... 92 Appian Way ...... 104 Ostiense & San Paolo ...... 118

0-title-this-book-contents-rom3.indd 4 4/07/2012 4:33:52 PM The Best of Survival Rome 165 Guide 189 Rome’s Best Walks Before You Go ...... 190 Emperors’ Footsteps ...... 166 Arriving in Rome ...... 192 Piazzas of Rome ...... 168 Getting Around ...... 193 Essential Information ...... 196 Rome’s Best… Language ...... 200 History ...... 170 Food ...... 172 For Free ...... 174 Bars & Nightlife ...... 175 Architecture ...... 176 Museums ...... 178 Shopping ...... 180 Art ...... 182 Culture...... 184 For Kids ...... 186 Tours ...... 187 Gay & Lesbian ...... 188

0-title-this-book-contents-rom3.indd 5 4/07/2012 4:33:54 PM -quickstart-pk-rom3.indd 6 4/07/2012 2:17:21 PM 7 QuickStart Guide

Rome Top Sights ...... 8 Rome Local Life ...... 12 Rome Day Planner ...... 14 Need to Know ...... 16 Rome Neighbourhoods ...... 18

Welcome to Rome

An epic, monumental city, Rome gets under your skin fast. Even on a short break, you’ll be smitten by its artistic masterpieces and iconic monuments, operatic piazzas and haunting ruins. Life is lived to the full here, and the city teems with trattorias and designer restaurants, street-side bars and glam fashion boutiques. Visit once and you’ll be hooked for life.

St Peter’s Basilica (p138) WILL SALTER/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

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Our Writer

Duncan Garwood Even after more than a decade living in Rome, Duncan is still fascinated by the city he calls home. He first fell for the place in 1996 after arriving at the crack of on an overnight train from Bari and finding himself virtually the only visitor in Piazza Navona and St Peter’s Basilica. Since then, he has worked on a whole host of Lonely Planet publications, includ- ing the past five editions of the Rome city guide, as well as guidebooks to Sicily, Sardinia and Naples & the Amalfi Coast, and the Food Lover’s Guide to the World. He has also written about Italy for newspapers and magazines.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Although the authors and Lonely Planet ABN 36 005 607 983 have taken all reasonable care in preparing 3rd edition – Oct 2012 this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 74220 023 1 accuracy or completeness of its content © Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 2012 and, to the maximum extent permitted, 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 disclaim all liability arising from its use. Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

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