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TOP TIP Find out More N & O About the Island at Dominica.Dm and ; WESTER Dominicaadventures CARIBBEAN DOMINICA DESTINATIONS CARIBBEAN SP N E O CIAL EDITI t’s so green, it’s like walking the island’s many centenarians “Ithrough a massive salad bowl,” credit its relaxed pace and said a friend. She wasn’t wrong; healthy living to their longevity. this is one lush island. This is the Caribbean for Dominica (pronounced Dom- people who don’t ‘do the in-EEK-a, and not to be confused Caribbean’, yet it still surprises with the Dominican Republic) fully those who do. It’s time to step deserves its ‘nature island’ tag. into the salad bowl. South of Guadeloupe and Picking up north of Martinique in the eastern w SELL: SEEKING Caribbean archipelago, with the ADVENTURERS Caribbean Sea to its west and “People come to get away from Atlantic to the east, two thirds of it all,” says our local guide and Dominica is rainforest. Thanks to driver, Margel Durand. Even high rainfall and an abundance the nightlife is laid-back; think of rivers, streams, lakes and roadside rum bars and beach waterfalls, it’s ridiculously dinners. verdant. It’s volcanic too, with What draws people is the mud pots and geysers testament wildlife and walking, world- to the geothermal activity class diving and snorkelling, steam rumbling below. the canyoning, river tubing and Get closer to nature on eco-focused Independent from Britain kayaking. And the tourist board’s island Dominica, writes Meera Dattani since 1978, English is the official latest ‘Seeking Adventures’ language, and with just 70,000 campaign and website have this residents spread across 289 in mind, be it active, culinary or square miles, Dominica radiates cultural adventures. The island a gentle, uncrowded vibe. In fact, was also a filming location for L A T N E I R TOP TIP O & Find out more N about the island at dominica.dm and ; WESTER dominicaadventures. DOMINICA com VER CO S DI TURES: IC P 70 travelweekly.co.uk 8 September 2016 8 September 2016 travelweekly.co.uk 71 CARIBBEAN DOMINICA DESTINATIONS RIghT: World- class diving FAR RIghT: Sisserou parrot BOTTOM: Hiking with KE Adventure Travel Pirates of the Caribbean, and its rugged w SEE: WILD AT HEART coastline, swampy mangroves and It’s worth spending time in the capital green interior leave little doubt why. With just 70,000 Roseau in the island’s southwest. Its There’s also year-round whale colonial Caribbean architecture reflects and dolphin-watching, 170-plus bird residents, Dominica Dominica’s French, English and Spanish species, more than a thousand types radiates a gentle, influences, resulting in an energetic, of flowering plants, and 300-plus miles uncrowded vibe compact city with a market, shops of footpaths in Morne Trois Pitons and botanic gardens. The city is at its National Park, the first Unesco World most atmospheric during Carnival, Heritage Site in the eastern Caribbean. the World Creole Music Festival and Beaches are not typically Caribbean. independence celebrations. Expect volcanic, dark-grey sand in also attracts hikers, birdwatchers Also fascinating is the Kalinago the main, although there are classic, and nature-loving families. There’s no Territory in the northeast, home to honey-coloured sands in the northwest international airport, but improved some 3,500 Caribs (Kalinago Indians) near Portsmouth. regional connections ensure same-day – homestays, restaurants and a For food lovers, Dominican cuisine arrivals from the UK via Barbados and heritage village celebrate their culture. ASK THE is often Creole-style with plenty of Antigua, and ferries connect to Saint South of Roseau is the fishing village EXPERT fresh marlin, mahi-mahi and tuna, Lucia, Martinique and Guadeloupe. of Soufriere-Scotts Head, and where dishes such as Dominican broth with The optimum time to travel is the Caribbean meets the Atlantic in seafood, chicken or callaloo spinach, November to April, but don’t dismiss a Unesco-listed marine reserve. Join Caroline Williams, and starchy ‘provisions’ of dasheen, the May shoulder season. Hurricane locals at nearby Bubble Beach Spa, a product manager, plantain and sweet potato, washed season typically falls in September ‘beach club’ with a shack-style beach KE Adventure down with a cold Kubuli beer. and October, but aside from the bar and geothermal sulphur pool. Travel A favourite with couples, solo devastating Hurricane Erica in August North of Roseau is Champagne Reef “Inexplicably, travellers and small groups, Dominica 2015, recent years have been calmer. where bubbling gases rise from Dominica remains one of the least visited Caribbean countries. Encourage customers to overnight. With the majority arriving by cruise ship and departing a few hours later, time your visits to the Indian River, Boiling Lake and Trafalgar Falls wisely, and you can enjoy the privilege of having them all to yourself.” 8 September 2016 travelweekly.co.uk 73 DESTINATIONS DOMINICA CARIBBEAN the seabed – it really is like swimming through a warm glass of fizz – and saMPLE deservedly popular with snorkellers PRODUCT and scuba divers. Many of Dominica’s treats lie inland. In the Roseau Valley are the KE Adventure Middleham waterfalls and twin falls Travel’s 10-day of Trafalgar, the ‘spa town’ of Wotten Totally Tropical Waven with hot springs such as Trekking in Screw’s Sulphur Spa, and Emerald Pool Dominica costs at the base of a 12-metre waterfall. from £3,295 with For adrenaline seekers, canyoning flights (£2,495 with adventure company Extreme land-only) with Dominica is an exhilarating accommodation combination of swimming, abseiling, in guesthouses jumping and climbing. They, along and beach lodges, with Bushman Tours and others, also all meals, six days’ organise guides for the challenging walking, cookery eight-mile Boiling Lake hike, to Morne Syndicate Nature Trail, a loop Winfrey have enjoyed a tipple, is also lesson, Boiling Watt and through the Valley of rainforest walk at the foot of our perfect spot for a rum punch. Lake or alternative Desolation before reaching the world’s Dominica’s highest peak, Morne trek and Indian second-largest boiling lake in Morne Diablotin in the northwest. In the w STAY: GO GREEN River tour. Trois Pitons National Park. The views company of the observant ‘Dr Birdy’, Dominica’s most luxurious resort is keadventure.com and lake are spectacular, but expect a aka Bertrand Jno Baptiste, we spot cliff-top Secret Bay in the northwest very achy body in return. Titou Gorge, insects so well camouflaged they’re Cabrits National Park. Its six (soon Western & where the trail ends (and begins), is almost impossible for us to see. This to be eight) villas and bungalows Oriental offers ideal for a post-walk soak. area is also home to Dominica’s rare are set in gorgeous gardens, and 10 nights Hikers will also enjoy the north- Sisserou and Jaco Amazon parrots; we all have outdoor terraces and high- from £3,029, south Waitukubuli Trail that passes manage to hear one, but see neither. spec kitchens, while plunge pools, comprising three through the Northern and Central North of Syndicate is the slow- Apple TVs, outdoor showers and sofa nights’ B&B at Forest Reserve. At 115 miles long and moving Indian River, and a guided hammocks are shared between them. Rosalie Bay, two split into 14 sections, the name means boat ride past its swampy river banks On the southeast Atlantic Coast is B&B at Fort Young ‘tall is her body’, the original Kalinago and blood-swamp trees is a highlight. Rosalie Bay’s 28-room eco boutique and five room- word for Dominica before Christopher Also a Pirates of the Caribbean film resort with a nature-focused spa, only at Secret Columbus renamed the island. location, the hidden jungle bar, where organic food, yoga and meditation. Bay Resort. Price Other highlights include the the likes of Johnny Depp and Oprah The owners also initiated a turtle includes flights conservation programme, and from and transfers. March to September guests may see westernoriental. giant leatherbacks, hawksbill and com green turtles lay eggs on the beach, or spot their hatchlings emerging from Explore’s the sand. Windward Isles In Roseau, suggest Fort Young, and French originally built as a British fort and Antilles itinerary popular with locals for Friday nights at visits Saint Lucia, its seafront Warner’s Bar. Inland in the Martinique Roseau Valley is Papillotte Wilderness and Dominica Retreat where the aroma of wild herbs, from £2,545 flowers and medicinal shrubs fills its including flights, gardens; even non-guests can book 12 nights’ B&B a day experience with guided garden accommodation, walk, lunch, waterfall bathing and hot transport and mineral pool, while at Cocoa Cottages, local guides. artist-designed rooms and homemade Three nights in chocolate reflect its creative owners. Dominica include TOP: “The human spirit needs places Morne Trois Secret Bay, where nature has not been rearranged Pitons National Cabrits by the hand of man,” says a quote National Park Park, Middleham on Dominica’s Seeking Adventures Falls and Roseau. LEFT: Turtle website. It’s safe to say Dominica isn’t explore.co.uk hatchling short on these. 74 travelweekly.co.uk 8 September 2016.
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