25Th Angostura Tobago Sail Week See Story on Page 12 JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 a JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3

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JUNE 2007 NO. 141 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore

25th Angostura Tobago Sail Week See story on page 12 JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 a JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3

RICHARD ROTTEVEEL Ad Sales - Debra Davis, Ad Sales & Distribution Stéphane Legendre Distribution - Bryan Lezama Distribution - Gladys Jones Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution - Bob and Judi Goodchild Tel: (473) 443-5784, [email protected] Guadeloupe: Ad Sales & Distribution - Patty Tomasik Distribution - Wayne Barthelmy Ad Sales & Distribution - Giselle Sankar Cruising Crossword ...... 37 Cruising Kids’ Corner ...... 38 Dolly’s Deep Secrets...... 38 Book Review...... 40 Different Boats ...... 42 Cooking with Cruisers...... 45 Readers’ Forum ...... 48 Classified Ads...... 52 Advertisers’ Index ...... 52 Calendar...... 54 [email protected] St. Thomas/USVI: Tel: (340) 774 7931, [email protected] St. Vincent & the Grenadines: Tel: (784) 457-3527, [email protected] Tortola/BVI: Tel: (284) 494-2830, Fax: (284) 494-1584 Trinidad: Tel: (868) 634-2055, Fax: (868) 634-2056 [email protected] Venezuela: Tel: (58-281) 265-3844 Tel/Fax: (58-281) 265-2448, [email protected] Tel/Fax: + 590 (0) 5 90 84 53 10 Mob: + 590 (0) 6 90 49 45 90 [email protected] Martinique: Tel: (0596) 596 68 69 71, Mob: + 596 (0) 696 93 26 38 [email protected] St. Lucia: Tel: (758) 584-1292, [email protected] St. Maarten/St. Barths/St. Kitts & Nevis: Distribution - Eric Bendahan (599) 553 3850 Ad Sales - Stéphane Legendre Tel/Fax: + 590 (0) 5 90 84 53 10 Mob: + 590 (0) 6 90 49 45 90 Big Fish Story Gourmands hit Gouyave...... 44 Overboard! Naked, shaken but safe ...... 33 But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the ISSN 1605 - 1998 DEPARTMENTS JUNE 2007 • NUMBER 141 JUNE 2007 • NUMBER www.caribbeancompass.com is published monthly by We support free speech! sole responsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts no responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length and clarity. Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts no liability for delayed distribution or printing quality as these services are supplied by other companies. ©2007 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of this publication, except short excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Ltd. welcomes submissions of short articles, news items, photos and drawings. Distribution - Hubert J. Winston, Distribution - Norman Faria Distribution - Cees de Jong Ad Sales & Distribution - Lucy Tulloch

Compass Agents by Island: Antigua: Tel (268) 774-6657 [email protected] Barbados: Tel/Fax: (246) 426-0861 [email protected] Curaçao: Tel: (5999) 767-9042, Fax: (5999) 767-9003, [email protected] Dominica: Dominica Marine Center, 24 Victoria Street, Roseau, Tel: (767) 448-2705, [email protected] Caribbean Compass See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to [email protected]. Regatta News ...... 9 Destinations ...... 18 Eco-News...... 19 Business Briefs...... 20 Street Talk...... 24 All Ashore...... 28 This Cruising Life ...... 32 Meridian Passage ...... 34 Sailors’ Horoscope ...... 36 Island Poets ...... 36 Caribbean Compass Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 175 BQ, Bequia, St. Vincent and the Grenadines. Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410, [email protected] www.caribbeancompass.com Editor...... Sally Erdle [email protected] Assistant Editor...... Elaine Ollivierre [email protected] Advertising & Distribution...... Tom Hopman [email protected] Art, Design & Production...... Wilfred Dederer [email protected] Accounting...... Debra Davis [email protected] Yacht Insurance The surveyor’s role ...... 22 A Different World Fantasy facility in the DR ...... 29 Weather Ear Select shortwave reports...... 7 Ducking Northers Panama to Honduras sail ...... 14 JULIA BARTLETT JULIA STEVE JOST STEVE The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore Look at Sea Monthly The Caribbean’s Flying La Flying Staten Adventuress Flying Colours, and is sailing to . , easily viewed by and its crew. Tampa —Continued on next page Arabella the mast, boom and spinnaker a pole of their 40-foot yacht for circus-worthy acrobatic show. Their two-hour act on the deck and in the rigging of Loupiote spectators on the surrounding of restaurant terraces, was one the best I have ever seen. La Loupiote Canada for the summer, where 20 performances are St. already planned along the Lawrence River. We hope they’ll come back to the Caribbean for the winter! For more information visit www.voilierspectacle.com. Missing Sailors The US Coast Guard has sus- pended active searching for four sailors who departed St. Thomas, USVI, on April 30th bound for Annapolis, Maryland, and encountered heavy weather off the North Carolina coast. However, all mariners are still encouraged to continue to be on the lookout for the 54-foot Little Harbor Colours The search for

BERTRAND COUSSEAU were experienced. Topping, Flying Colours on-line subscribers! at 35° 52’N, 74° 7’W, about 160 miles southeast of Cape Join our growing list of & Updates For full details visit: NOW AVAILABLE! on its way to overall first in Cruiser/Racer Class skipper, and Franks, who had skippered the classic Fife ketch skipper, and Franks, who had skippered the classic Fife Flying Colours 12 issues US$29.95, 24 issues US$53.95 www.caribbeancompass.com , were joined by two US Navy P3 search crews from Naval Air Station , were joined by two US Navy P3 search crews from Naval Same price, same content — faster delivery! ON-LINE SUBSCRIPTIONS Cover Photo Wilfred Dederer: ANGOSTURA SAILING WEEK 2007 Wayward Yacht Acrobats Perform Yacht Acrobats at Marina and 26th, parts of the docks reports: On April 25th Stéphane Legendre a most unusual of boats to make way for Guadeloupe were emptied Bas du Fort in couple, used Delphine, a French cruising “Navigartistes” Franck and performance. crewed by Patrick “Trey” Topping, age 39, Jason Franks, 34, Rhiannon Borisoff, 22, crewed by Patrick “Trey” Topping, age 39, Jason Franks, at the Rescue and Christine Grinavic, 25, began on May 7th when watchstanders a signal from an EPIRB Coordination Center (RCC) in Portsmouth, Virginia, received The signal location report- at 0330 hours. The RCC lost contact with the EPIRB at 0700. edly put Colours’ Grinavic had been work- out of Newport, Rhode Island, are both licensed captains. ing as a deckhand on the 160-foot charter schooner Lookout, where she apparently encountered seas over 30 feet and 45- to 60-knot Lookout, where she apparently encountered seas over winds produced by Tropical Storm Andrea. Florida, Coast Guard search crews from Air Stations in North Carolina, Massachusetts and Georgia, and the Coast Guard cutters

Island Patrick Air Force Bases and Jacksonville, Florida, and C-130 crews from Moody and Air National Guard. They the Rhode Island, New York, Georgia and North Carolina miles. searched an area of more than 282,000 square nautical Coast Guard because we “Suspending a search is always a difficult step for the said Rear Admiral Larry understand the impact that it has on the families involved,” last six days, Coast Guard Hereth, Commander, Fifth Coast Guard District. “In the of Defense aircraft, searched cutters and aircraft, along with numerous Department could be. Sadly, the thresh- all of the likely and even unlikely areas where the crew old of survival seems negligible.” object has been located. A search-and-rescue case is not closed until the search According to friends, the crew of Info JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 e-mail: [email protected]/68 Tel (784)457-3507/457-3527(evenings) (northern sideofAdmiraltyBay) Located oppositeG.Y.E. Come inandseeusforallyour BEQUIA BEACHFRONTVILLAS www.bequiabeachfrontvillas.com [email protected] 8-5-43or284-495-4467800-367-8455(waitforring) 784-457-3423 SAILS &CANVASSAILS BIMINI &DODGER including GRENADINES CUSTOM-MADE BEQUIA frames atcompetitiveprices SAILS &CANVAS stainless steel mile longbeach. views juststepsdownthe and spectacularpanoramic high beamedceilings, featuring verylargerooms, are beautifullyappointed, Friendship BayBeach located directlyon 1-4 bedroomvillas These luxurious Bequia -Triple Diamonds. approved propertyon Design &theonlyAAA Featured Architectural REPRESENTATIVE a FortRecoveryResort needs During themonthofMay,traditionalCaribdugoutcanoe Gli-Gli’s Wadlow, tel(757)636-2431. Please reportanysightingsof departing St.MaartenonMay9thboundforNewport. racer the samestorm,andsolosailorJohnFildes,age32,wasrescuedfromOpen40 Meanwhile, theCoastGuardrescuedninepeoplefromthreeotherboatscaughtin boats. Heisaself-taughtsailorandproceededtoobtainskipper’slicense. his oldlifeinMaltabehindlate2001andheadedofftotheCaribbeanwork on Writes Ripard:“Anelectricaltechnicianbytradebutadventurousnature,heleft into theMediterranean. he planstostopintheAzoresandPortugalbeforeenteringStraitsofGibraltar Caribbean toMalta.AccordingareportbyJoannaRipardin his 37-footsloopinanattempttobecomethefirstMaltesesailfrom On May14th,31-year-oldsolosailorEleandroBuhagiarsetsailfromAntiguaaboard Antigua toMaltaSoloSail For moreinformationontheCMAvisitwww.caribbeanmarineassociation.com. Commission forLatinAmericaandtheCaribbean(ECLAC)in2003. and afollow-uptotheregionalyachtingstudydonebyUnitedNationsEconomic procedures throughouttheregion,furtherbanningofuseTBTanti-foulingpaint, tistics, aregionalsafetyandsecurityproject,harmonizedCustomsImmigration Among topicsdiscussedatthemeetingwereneedforcollectionofyachtingsta- Antigua &BarbudaMarineTradesAssociation. Tourism; andJohnDuffy,GeorgeClarke,JonathonCorneliusPennyTyasofthe Association ofSt.Lucia;NigelBenjamintheAntigua&BarbudaMinistry Yachting AssociationofGrenada;KeatsComptontheMarineIndustries Grenadines RecreationalMarineAssociation;JustinEvansoftheand Association oftheBritishVirginislands;JohnWestSt.Vincent& Maarten MarineTradesAssociation;JohnShirleyandSamWelshofthe McIntosh oftheYachtServicesAssociationTrinidad&Tobago;JeffBoydSt. Antigua YachtClub.PresentwereTommyJohnson,DonaldStollmeyerandSharon The firstAnnualGeneralMeetingoftheCMAwasheldonMay8thinAntiguaat the yachtingindustry. tourism organisationsandotherNGOsonpolicieschallengeswhichinfluence • Tooffernon-politicaladviceandassistallCaribbeangovernments,regional Caribbean waters,theenvironmentandnauticaltourismexperience. dards thataredesignedtopreserve,protectandenhancethequalityof • Toencourageallwithintheyachtingindustrytoadoptbestpracticesandstan- tional communicationsbetweenallmembersandotherrelatedorganisations. • Tocompileandshareexperience,ideasinformation,toimproveinterna- the developmentofyachtingindustrywithinCaribbeanBasin.Itsaimsare: The CaribbeanMarineAssociation(CMA)isaregionalassociationgearedtowards CMA’s FirstAGM For moreinformationvisitwww.gliglicaribcanoe.com. development ofthisentireregion.” Leeward Islandsandtomakepersonsawareoftherolethatwehaveplayedin been protectingourculture…Weareheretoraisetheconsciousnessof inhabitants ofthisregion….Wehavebeenprotectingourislandsandwealso Paulinus Frederickof traditional musicalperformancesforschoolsandheritagegroups. of 11Kalinago-CaribsfromDominicapresentedslideandvideoshowsgave Caribbean’s largestsurvivingindigenoustribe.Throughouttheexpedition,crew played intheregion’shistoryandculturepromotedrecognitionof Leeward Islands.TheexpeditiondrewattentiontotheroleCaribpeoplehave from DominicatoGuyana,bysymbolicallyreunitingtheCaribdescendantsof anniversary of Expedition organizerssaythatthevoyagewasundertakentocelebratetenth Gorda alongtheway. Antigua toTortola,visitingNevis,St.Kitts,Barts,Maarten,AnguillaandVirgin —Continued frompreviouspage —Continued P.O. Box851,St.Vincent &theGrenadines, Tel: (784)458-7270 Fax: (784)457-9917 Dangerous WhenWet Leeward IslandsAdventure E-mail: [email protected] Gli Gli’s WALLILABOU WALLILABOU BAYHOTEL ANCHORAGE West Indies. Gli-Gli (range limitedbythehills) launching andtocontinuethemissionofher1997expedition VHF Ch16&68 told listenersinNevis,“Ourancestorswerethefirst by thecruiseship Flying Colours or itscrewtoCoastGuardPettyOfficer Crown Princess ... CARIBEE BATIK-BOUTIQUE CREDIT CARDSACCEPTED WATER, ICE,SHOWERS BAR ANDRESTAURANT MOORING FACILITIES TOURS ARRANGED HAPPY HOUR5-6 PORT OFENTRY —Continued onnextpage —Continued on May14th,after Gli-Gli The TimesofMalta sailed from , JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 —Continued on next page President of the Antigua & Barbuda Marine Association, Marine & Barbuda the Antigua of President of Safety & Security. the subject introduced John Duffy, yachting industry in relation to the that crime He stated skip- that yacht major issue and was not a in Antigua island in the to be the safest Antigua pers reported increase, mainly crime is on the However, Caribbean. to pre- efficient policing is required drug related, and Antigua as it as major an issue in vent crime becoming Caribbean islands. is in some other followed with many contributions A lively discussion responded and the Prime Minister from the audience, was a questions. In general, there positively to their coverage the lack of effective police concern about the discus- Mr. Lovell summed up and commitment. agreed to he and the Prime Minister sion and both be issues immediately which could address some to Parliament or changes dealt with without reference would need study and to the law. Other changes legislation. consideration and, if necessary, Environment was The discussion on The Bureaucratic a Director of the Marine introduced by George Clarke, emphasis on the prob- Association. Mr. Clarke laid heavy entering and leaving lems yachts encountered when to the superyachts Antigua, with particular reference “toys” on board for char- which have large quantities of by reference to one ter guests. He illustrated the problem required to complete a yacht which, in Antigua, was entries, yet when clearing form which contained 1,700 requires only 19 entries. He into the UK the same inventory goods and containers also referred to delays in clearing through the port of St. John’s. problems with the Accepting that there had been the Cricket World Cup, Mr. CARICOM visa as a result of procedures were still Clarke claimed that Immigration sometimes, unfriendly. far too slow, bureaucratic and, followed which included a An extremely lively discussion call from the back of the room for the resignation of the head of Customs, loudly cheered by many present. The meeting had now extended far beyond the allot- ted time and the Minister of Tourism summarised the concerns expressed by the audience and the areas which need addressing. The Prime Minister, now well overdue for his Cabinet meeting, was forced to leave but expressed his thanks to those present and advised them that he found it much more useful being at the meeting than he would have done had he received a report from the Minister of Tourism.

ANTIGUA MINISTRY OF TOURISM Prime Minister the Hon. Baldwin Spencer (left) and Prime Minister the Hon. Baldwin Harold Lovell headed Minister of Tourism the Hon. issues meeting to address yachting Barbuda, the Hon. Baldwin Spencer, broke an Barbuda, the Hon. Baldwin to chair a meeting with appointment with his Cabinet yachting industry. Fifty representatives of Antigua’s sides of the marine industry elected delegates from all Immigration, the including the police, Customs, Marine Association, regatta organisers and various special interest bodies met at the Antigua Yacht Club Marina Restaurant courtesy of Carlo Falcone. The guests were welcomed by the Prime Minister followed by the Hon. Harold Lovell, Minister of Tourism, who outlined the purpose of the Yachting Symposium and the agenda which would comprise three subjects: Safety & Security, The Bureaucratic Environment, and Marketing & Promoting the Sector. Mr. Lovell stated he realised that the industry was much broader than the three items on the agenda but he felt it was better to focus on a few subjects and visit other subjects at a later date. New Zealand. She left New Zealand in November in Zealand left New She Zealand. New and around the South Pacific sail across 2006. The in Argentina She rested took 48 days. Cape Horn Virgin Islands, to revisit the continuing north before to the VI she sailed resident. From she is a legal where A knock-down Rhode Island. then on to Bermuda, the trip. VI and Bermuda nearly ended between the than piling journey was about more Donna says the “But I “I wanted answers,” she says. up sea miles. to tell it right. I didn’t want people wanted to know to the sea.” me. So I went Yachting Symposium Antigua Holds a breakthrough in There has been Antigua. industry relations in Government/yachting & , the Prime Minister of Antigua On May 16th . in 2000 , Eleandro raced in , Eleandro raced Inspired Insanity Lolita Inspired Insanity , a 1975 Swedish-built ocean Swedish-built , a 1975 Mahina while sailing her around the Caribbean. His while sailing her —Continued page from previous spotted “He first Donna Does It! into solo sailor Donna Lange sailed On May 16th, a 31,400-nautical- Bristol, Rhode Island, to complete well-known in the Virgin mile circumnavigation. Donna, as well as a liveaboard Islands as a singer-songwriter her sailor, did the deed aboard Antigua Sailing Week 2004, and the St. Maarten Antigua Sailing BVI Spring regattas in 2005. Heineken and to www.donnalange.com, Hers is quite a story. According upstate New York, working Donna lived most of her life in She is 46 years old, a as a nurse and raising a family. of two. Her life mother of four and a grandmother marriage ended. And one changed in 1998. Her 20-year she accidentally hit a night, driving home from work, sport utility vehicle carrying truck, which careened into a Lange survived, but the five people. All five were killed. she suffered from post- accident scarred her. She says struggled to move on. She traumatic stress disorder and ship in Baltimore, Maryland, saw an ad for a chef on a tall answers. She fell in love and left New York in search of to sail. with the sea and learned how the world, and it just “I had this vision of sailing around stuck,” she says. She bought she had. The boat was for US$18,000, all the money built in Bristol in 1982 by the C.E. Ryder Corp. It’s a sturdy boat but considered small for a circumnavigation. “The 28-foot Southern Cross was not built to do what I did. But I needed a boat that was my size, one that I could handle.” Donna stands five-foot-two. In 2002, she sailed from the USVI to Ireland and back. That trip gave her the confidence to attempt a voyage around the world. On a previous stop in Bristol, she had fallen in love with the town and its seafaring tradition. She returned to Bristol to refurbish her boat and stock up, departing on November 11, 2005, for the first leg of her circumnavigation, a 168-day sail to cruiser, anchored in Antigua in November 2004. He 2004. Antigua in November anchored in cruiser, since, Mr. April…. Ever her the following bought on working his time between has divided Buhagiar Coast the East the Caribbean, yachts around crewed refitting and working on and the Mediterranean, Mahina father travelled to Trinidad & Tobago to help his son to Trinidad & Tobago to help father travelled refit in September 2005.” with the ambitious the Swan 56 As crew aboard JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 Bay duetotheriskofdamagingtheseuniqueworks Boaters areaskednottodropanchorsinMoliniere itors. Itistheonlyprojectofitskindworldwide. and provideanunusualexcitingattractionforvis- project aimstohelpre-generatethemarinehabitat Board ofTourismandtheDepartmentFisheries, square metres.WiththebackingofGrenada weighing overfivetonsandcoveringanareaof25 “Vicissitudes”, aworkcomprising26cementstatues, at MoliniereBay,Grenada.Theseinclude over 50newstatuesattheunderwatersculpturepark Jason Taylorreports:LateMaysawtheinstallationof Please Don’tAnchorontheArt! tion tothesubjectsunderdiscussion. absence, thePrimeMinister,fortheirtimeandatten- thanked theMinisterandthosepresentand,inhis sion andNigelBenjamin,YachtingLiaisonOfficer, Again theMinisterofTourismsummariseddiscus- jet-to-yacht serviceprovidedatAntiguaairport. could beimproved,inparticular,thedirectprivate- by suggestionsofvariousotherareaswheremarketing ing industryinAntigua.Thepresentationwasfollowed posals inthepipelineforimprovementstoyacht- tion wasgivenbyCarloFalconeonsomeofthepro- pre-lunch subjects.However,aninterestingpresenta- the meetingandsubjectdidnotfitwellwith Sector. Tosomedegreethesteamhadgoneoutof sium resumedtodiscussMarketing&Promotingthe Antigua YachtClubMarinaRestaurant,thesympo- After abreakforlunch,generouslyprovidedby frompreviouspage —Continued the prestigiouseco-tourismorganizationGreenGlobe the worldtoreceiveBenchmarkingdesignationfrom able tourismefforts,includingbeingthefirstcountryin Dominica continuestoberecognizedforitssustain- showcasing theirproducts. SeaLife/Pioneer (amphibiandigitalcameras),willbe Oceanic (HeadsUpDisplay[HUD]masks)and winning KubuliBeer.DiveFestsponsors,including great prizesincludingcasesofDominica’saward-- happy hourdancesandtheawardsdinnerfeaturing whale watching,treasurehunt,traditionalboatraces, divers alikeincludingawine-and-cheesecruise, the Festwillfeaturemanyactivitiesfordiversandnon- ship andsupportofDominicaWatersportsAssociation, sponsor oftheDiveFest,andcontinuingsponsor- Welcoming backCable&Wirelessasthepremier also betheguestjudgesofphotocontest. phers andwriters,BarryRuthGuimbellott,whowill tography workshopswithtwooftheirstaffphotogra- demonstrations. phy workshops,aphotocontestandnewequipment This year’sDominicaDiveFestwillincludephotogra- Dive FestwilltakeplacefromJuly6thto15th. and anhonorrollofsponsors,Dominica’s14thAnnual With continuedfocusonthesportofscubadiving Dominica’s DiveFest visit our“allnew”website,www.jhycantigua.com. For allthelatestonJollyHarbourYachtClub,please wearing thenewclublogowithpride! were popular,andwearepleasedtoseepeople past membersbacktotheClub.TheeventT-shirts only recruitednewmembers,butwelcomedsome Jolly HarbourduringAntiguaSailingWeek.Wenot Thanks tothosewhovisitedourrecruitmentstandat JHYC members. swimming pool.Therearealsodiscountsavailablefor ties forvisitingyachtsmen,includingshowersanda BBR SportsBar.Thenewvenueprovidesbetterfacili- Yacht ClubofAntiguamoveditsheadquarterstothe Pippa Pettingellreports:OnJune1st,theJollyHarbour Jolly HarbourYachtClubMoves www.underwatersculpture.com. For moreinformationvisit be gratefullyaccepted. of art.Donationstowardanotherfixedmooringwould Dive TrainingMagazine will hostpho- use themoorings.” not yetdeterminedwhetheritwillbemandatoryto ments aswelearnmoreabouttheindustry.Wehave determined itmaybenecessarytomakeadjust- with otherjurisdictions.However,oncethepriceis determined, aswearestillresearchingthematter The priceforuseofthesemooringshasnotyetbeen installed offshoreatadistanceof400to500feet. ing ratherthandropanchor.Thesemooringswillbe believe thatyachtspeopleprefertotieupamoor- cally embedded15feetintotheseabed,aswe to installprofessionalmooringswhichwillbehydrauli- the seabedandmarinelife.Hence,wehavedecided tourism productinNevisandatthesametimeprotect Compass Authority GeneralManagerSpencerHanley,whotells This newscomesfromNevisAirandSeaPorts Gallows Bay. placed indesignatedareasfromOualieBeachto The moorings,suitableforyachtsupto60feet,willbe along thewestcoastofislandNevisinAugust. based companyMoorSeacureLimitedwillbegin The installationof100yachtmooringsbytheBVI- Moorings forNevis [email protected]. For moreinformationontheDiveFestcontact Economics Foundation). Happy PlanetIndex(compiledbyBritain’sNew the topfive“happiestcountriesonearth”in 21, andrankingastheonlyCaribbeandestinationin , “Wearetryingtodevelopouryacht —Continued onpage35 —Continued JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 . If the by Melodye Pompa Comment on Comment USCG Invites USCG VHF WEATHER FOR PR, VI HF Broadcasts Bill Brady reports: In Puerto Rico, the Spanish I received the following e-mail early in May from I received the following e-mail a request for The US Coast Guard has published We value your opinion very much, but for your voice Russell Levin, USCG HQ (202) 475-3555 [email protected] There are additional avenues for providing com- It sounds to me, having read through the entire Many of us have alternate weather forecast The Coast Guard broadcasts are on four times The Caribbean Safety and Security Net urges you Continuation of Continuation Virgins, the US Virgins and parts of the BVI, you can get the National Weather Service recorded weather on VHF weather channels 5 (162.450 MHz) and 6 (162.500 MHz). The forecasts, originating out of San Juan NWS Office, alternate between English and Spanish and include a local Marine Forecast. Channel 5 broadcasts out of the Isla de Culebra and Channel 6 out of St. Croix. the US Coast Guard: the continuation of HF public comment concerning forecasts. The notice radio broadcasts of weather voice, and concerns forecasts by radiofacsimile, Printing). The Coast SITOR (Narrow Band Direct services is obsolete, and Guard’s equipment for these upgrade, it before it invests in an infrastructure to which these servic- needs to determine the extent are available. The es are used and what alternatives answer eight questions notice asks commenters to services. The comment about themselves and these period ends August 24th. to be heard properly, you need to fill out the q on the docket at Docket Management System at http://dms.dot.gov/search/document.cfm?docu- mentid=466958&docketid=27656. Your answers to the questions are very important. This issue directly impacts receiving weather broadcasts.” ments; you will find those noted on the website. The Coast Guard is looking for answers to very specific questions: your position within the maritime community, your primary sources for marine weather forecasts, whether or not you currently use Coast Guard HF radio broadcasts and if so, which of the three (voice, fax, SITOR), how critical are these broadcasts to your safety, what alternative sources for obtaining marine weather would you use if the Coast Guard broadcasts were no longer available, how the loss of the Coast Guard broadcasts would affect you, and where you operate your vessel. posting, that the Coast Guard is looking for data to justify requests for budget increases to cover the maintenance and upgrade of their equipment. sources, but equipment problems and scheduling difficulties can prevent Eric, George and Chris from their broadcasts, not to mention normal radio propagation issues preventing us from hear- ing them. More and more cruising yachts are making use of wireless Internet, but that, too, depends on the power being on at the wi-fi hot spot, the local Internet provider being operational, and our onboard computer and antenna device in good working order. If any of these components is not functional, our wireless Internet for weather is not operational. each day, and on three to six frequencies each time, making it nearly guaranteed that each listener can get current weather info. Their service is critical during long passages and during hurricane season, when current and frequent weather information may be a case of personal safety. to sign on to the website and send your comments, even if you are only an infrequent listener entire URL doesn’t work for you, use just the website portion (http://dms.dot.gov) and search for 27656 which is the docket ID.

GUY DEAN , and Samhadi , Dave Richardson of FREE , Frank Pearce of Cayenne III goes to press, a reader tells us, “George/Lou are for radio information, which was correct to the best went to press. Compass , Teri Rothbauer (and the Ghost) of Millennium , Ellen Sanpere of Compass Toucan I Parrothead SELECTED CARIBBEAN SELECTED , Betty Karl of At about 1115/0715 the Net Controller asks George for a Wx report, which George pro- At about 1115/0715 the Net Controller asks George An in-depth voice report followed by faxes and SSTV, except Sundays. An in-depth voice report followed by faxes and SSTV, conducted on Sundays. When there are Unless severe weather threatens, this net is not Caribbean Sea approximately 25 minutes later. NMG, New Orleans, 4316, 8502,12788. Caribbean Sea approximately 25 minutes later. NMN.NMG are currently making changes. See www.nhc.noaa.gov/tafb-atl.sthml. Caribbean Sea. SHORTWAVE WEATHER REPORTS SHORTWAVE Note 3: UTC0600 AST 02000930 05301030 DESCRIPTION STATION & REPORT NMG Broadcast 06301030 Offshore Forecast 06301100 Emergency Net 9Z4CP (Eric) Trinidad 07001100 FREQ Emergency & Weather Net Carib. 07001130 3855 TYPE Caribbean Weather (Chris) 07301200 Mobile Net Caribbean Maritime 0800 MODE 1230 Voice Net (George) KP2G Caribbean Weather 08301300 NMG Broadcast LSB/ham 3815 7086 09001330 Caribbean Weather (Chris) 09301530 Voice Voice Caribbean Sea (WLO) 11301800 7241 Weather (Chris) Caribbean 1400 LSB/ham 1800 LSB/ham (Note 1) Offshore Forecast 14002000 Voice 8137 Caribbean Sea (WLO) 16002030 NMG Broadcast LSB/ham (Note 3) 16302130 Voice A B Southbound II (Herb) 17302235 Net (George) Carib. Cocktail & Weather USB (Note 2) 18350000 8104 7086 Offshore Forecast 20000000 Emergency & Weather Net Caribbean 2000 Wefax0330 Voice Voice Voice 12350 Caribbean Sea (WLO) 2330 USB Voice 3815 NMG Broadcast USB (Note 2) USB LSB/ham CFrequencies (in kHz): Offshore Forecast USB (Note 2) Voice BA) LSB/ham C NMN, Chesapeake, 4426, 6501, 8764, 13089, 17314. Voice A Wefax 12359 USB USB Voice VoiceB) B USB VoiceC) USB 4316, 8502, 12788, 17144.5 C A USB 4369, 8788, 13110, 17362, 22804. Gulf of Mexico, Southwest North Atlantic, then WefaxNote 1: USB Note 2: Voice Voice A B USB USB Wefax Voice USB USB • WWV has World Marine Storm Warnings (Voice) at 8 minutes after each hour, and Solar Flux information at 18 minutes after each hour on 2500, 5000, 10000, 15000, and 20000 AM. • During hurricane activity, information can be found continuously on the Hurricane Watch Net • If you are waiting for a “weather window”, there is news, entertainment and sports on BBC at • Anyone, licensed or not, may legally operate on HAM frequencies in the event of a life- threatening emergency. SELECTED CRUISERS’ VHF NETS English HarbourGrenadaPorlamarPuerto La Cruz 0900St. Martin/Maarten VHF 68/06Chaguaramas 0730Union Island 0745 VHF 14 Daily Thanks to William Mills of 0730 VHF 72 0800 0800 VHF 68 VHF 72 0900 VHF 68 Monday-Saturday VHF 68 Monday-Saturday Monday-Saturday Monday-Saturday Monday-Sunday Monday-Saturday There are also non-English weather nets, such as “Hugonet” in German (0900 at 8140), too numer- John and Melodye Pompa of Second of our knowledge as this issue of vides. Then George encourages listeners interested in a more detailed Wx report to go to his net vides. Then George encourages listeners interested on 7086 at 1130/0730. As this issue of active Tropical systems in the Atlantic, Caribbean Weather (Chris) runs a Net at 2300 UTC / 1900 active Tropical systems in the Atlantic, Caribbean and changes visit www.caribwx.com/ssb.html AST, on 8137, Voice, USB. For complete schedule on 14325 USB/ham. UTC 1100-1300 (5875, 6130, 9660, and 9750 AM), UTC 2100-2300 (5975, 9480, 9660, and 11675 AM) and American Forces Network 24 hours/day (5446.5, 7812.5, and 12133.5 USB). now on 7250 instead of 7241 at 0700 - George begins the weather portion about 0710. He is not now on 7250 instead of 7241 at 0700 - George least until hurricane season begins.” doing any weather updates on 7086 at 0730 at Overstreet ous to list here. Please check with your compatriots! JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 inch or0.2mm.Soiftheareaofforecastincludes period. Measurableisusuallydefinedasa100thofan of ameasurableamountrainduringtheforecast area theforecastcovers,thereisa30percentchance cent oftheareacoveredbyforecast. of thetimeanditdoesn’tmeanwillrainon30per- Really Mean? global climatechange. Scientists stilldebatewhetheritisonemoresignof landfall. HurricaneCatarinawasaCategory1. was noreadylistofnames,itnamedafterthe Santa CatarinainsoutheasternBrazil.Sincethere recorded SouthAtlantichurricanewentashorein equivalent ofourSeptember)theoneandonlyever hurricanes. InMarch2004(thesouthernhemisphere don’t tendtobefavorableforhurricanedevelopment. er there.SoSSTandwindshearintheSouthAtlantic than ourNorthAtlanticandwindsheartendstobehigh- there isn’tastrongenoughCoriolisforcetostartrotation. It reachesabout15°Nbutonly5°S,andat5°S rare intheSouthAtlantic. ical wavefactoryinAfricaandsotropicalwavesare equator. Inthesouthernhemispherethereisnotrop- African rainforest.Thatwholeareaisnorthofthe in AfricaliesmostlybetweentheSaharaand temperatures —SSTs).Butthetropicalwavefactory factors co-operatetoo,likewindshearandseasurface Zone (ITCZ)andatropicalwave(providedfewother interaction betweentheInter-TropicalConvergence get hurricanes.Whyisthat? here intheCaribbean.ButSouthAtlanticdoesn’t mation andhowitappliestotheAtlanticeastofus forecasts forotherislands onthesewebsites. — neitherisverygoodforthecruisers inChaguaramas.It’seasytogetlocal 0002?from=36hr_fcst10DayLink_business bin/findweather/getForecast?query=piarco six daysaweek. What itdoesmeanisthatforanygivenspotinthe Well, itdoesn’tmeanthatwillrainfor30percent What Doesa‘30PercentChanceofPrecipitation’ So thereareno—well,almostSouthAtlantic Furthermore, thewaterofSouthAtlanticiscolder Also, theITCZwandersaroundfromseasontoseason. Recall thatmosthurricanesareformedbytheright In PartOnelastmonth,wediscussedhurricanefor- South AtlanticHurricanes These areforTrinidad,theformeris PiarcoandthelatterforPortofSpain http://www.weather.com/outlook/travel/businesstraveler/tenday/TDXX http://www.wunderground.com/cgi- Local Forecasts Eric isalsotheTrinidadcableTVweatherman. Every morninghamradio3855LSB0630AST Eric Mackie This isWeatherUnderground. http://www.wunderground.com/blog/JeffMasters Jeff Masters For afeehewillsendyoudailye-mailupdates. See thewebsitefortimes/frequenciesofhisMarineSSBweathernet http://caribwx.mwxc.com/marine.html Chris Parker http://www.nhc.noaa.gov/text/refresh/MIATWOAT+shtml/010919.shtml Tropical WeatherOutlook http://www.nhc.noaa.gov/text/MIATWDAT.shtml Tropical WeatherDiscussion SOME USEFULWEATHERINFORMATIONSOURCES Understanding CaribbeanWeather Thanks toClayton andFiona Lewisof the yacht Part Two sea surfaceanddeterminewindspeeddirection. are severalotherscatterometers. the scatterometerdatathatweseeascruisers.There 1997 withatwo-yearmissionlife.Itstilldominates from theradarbackscatter. matical processing,winddirectionisalsodetermined increases withwindvelocity.Withsomefancymathe- these ripplesincreaseswithwindvelocity,backscatter ples ontheoceansurfaceand,sinceenergyin returned tothesatelliteismodifiedbywind-drivenrip- the windclosetosurface.Radarbackscatter of theseaduetoperturbationsmallripplesby surface. Theyrecordthechangesinradarreflectivity can seethroughanycloudcoverandwatchthesea means whenhetalksabout“scatterometerdata”? rain”, “intermittentor“periodsofrain”. continuous thentheywillusethephrases“occasional 80 percentorgreaterbuttherainisnotexpectedtobe or “rainlikely”isa60to70percentPOP.IfthePOP means a30to50percentPOP.“Numerousshowers” percent. “Scatteredshowers”or“chanceofrain” showers” or“slightchanceofrain”whenthePOPis20 ers” ifthePOPistenpercentand“widelyscattered of thescaletheysay“isolatedshowers”or“fewshow- instead theyusedescriptiveterms.Atthelowestend Service doesn’tusepercentchanceofprecipitation; pared byrainwhentheforecastcalledforsun. after beingtolditmightrain,thanbecaughtunpre- would ratherbepleasantlysurprisedbyasunnyday For example,someforecastersbelievethatpeople estimate couldbebiased,perhapsevendeliberately. very subjectiveforecastandanindividualforecaster’s cent chancethatyourboatwillgetwetday. where yourboatis,itwouldmeanthereisa30per- In short,scatterometersaresatellitesthatmonitorthe A scatterometercalledQuickscatwaslaunchedin Scatterometers aremicrowaveradarsatellitesthat Have youwonderedwhatweathermanChrisParker Scatterometers In theirmarinebroadcasts,theUSNationalWeather Percent chanceofprecipitation,orPOP,canbea by ClaytonLewis — fasterthanBuoyweather, alsoGFS,butyoucan’tsetyour ownbuoy public/marine/sea.jpg Weather some sources: your choice). ing foryourchosenlocation. you want. http://windguru.cz/int/index.php?lang=eng (hassomepre-setvirtualbuoys http://www.meteo.fr/temps/domtom/antilles/pack- Here areacoupleofothersitesfor forecasts: Clayton’s (seefootnote)favoriteweather book(sofar)is: http://www.hurricanehunters.com/askus.htm http://www.nhc.noaa.gov/marinersguide.pdf http://www.srh.noaa.gov/srh/jetstream/ http://Wikipedia.com Other weathertidbitscamefrombooks,onlineetcetera.Hereare http://www.nhc.noaa.gov/text/MIAOFFNT3.shtml? Offshore WatersForecastfortheTropicalNorthAtlantic http://www.nhc.noaa.gov/text/MIAOFFNT3.shtml? Offshore WatersForecastfortheEasternCaribbean For asmallfeeyoucanhavedailye-mails(eithertextorgraphicformat, Buoyweather usestheGFSmodel;itsimplyreportswhatispredict- http://Buoyweather.com —enteravirtualbuoylocationanywhere Virtual BuoyfromBuoyweather by WilliamP.Crawford,NortonNautical Books. Argo for this information. Atmospheric PredictionSystem. files arefromtheUSNavyCoupledOcean (Though lotsofsourcesproduceGRIBfiles.)COAMPS the NOAAMMABOperationalWaveModel(wwave3). prediction ofopenoceanweather. land shapesandconcentrateonaccuratelongerterm Meteorological ServiceofCanada.Thesemodelsignore and GEM(GlobalEnvironmentalMultiscale)fromthe Atmospheric PredictionSystem)fromtheUSNavy, NOAA, NOGAPS(NavyOperationalGlobal frequently areGFS(GlobalForecastSystem)from relevant tocruisersandtheoneswehearaboutmost land shapesaretakenintoaccount.Themodelsmost US weather,forexample,thegridisverytightand er modelsgiveverygoodresultsasfaraweekout. mations wandertoofarfromreality.Thebestcomput- approximation, eventuallyapproximationsofapproxi- marching offintothefuture.Sinceeachsolutionisan in thiswayitcomputesaseriesofweathersolutions time andcomputesasecondsolution.Bycontinuing tion asanewsetofinputdataitonceagainadvances the datafromallnearbygridpoints.Usingthissolu- good approximationtothephysicsequationsbyusing computes (forthissingleshorttimeinthefuture)a in thisgriditadvancestimeashortincrementand gitude andelevationaroundtheglobe.Foreachpoint dimensional gridofpointsdistributedinlatitude,lon- pheric physics. the difficultpartialdifferentialequationsofatmos- data isfedtoacomputerprogramdesignedsolve wave heightanddirectionareincludedaswell.Allthis and atvariousaltitudes.Seasurfacetemperatures, and winddirectionaregatheredbothatthesurface such aspressure,temperature,humidity,windspeed predictions. Everyday(oroftener)weatherconditions models. Whatarethey?Inshort,theycomputer Cruisers’ GRIBfilesforweatherdisplaythegridfrom There aredozensofcomputermodels.Forinternal The computerthinksoftheatmosphereasathree- The Caribbeanforecastersoftentalkaboutweather Weather Models Mariner’s JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 . prizes, , win- Sunrise , Andrea , winner of Following Tides Sunshine’s Indio Antifouling Paint Paint Brushes Epoxy Resins Sanding Paper & Discs Hand & Power Tools Houseware & Cookware , which won the Sanhall , which won the won the Island Provision , took home the Peter , took home , winner of Racing IV and the Firefly Looking for Elvis took the Antigua and Barbuda Sunshine Chippewa earned the British Airways Trophy , winner of Racing II and the Price , winner of Racing II and the Lazy Dog Hugo B Pavlova II ner of Racing V and the Air Canada Cup; and Bruce ner of Racing V and the Air Slayden’s Gunboat 62 Perla Cup. Multihull Racing and the La Cruiser classes The Overall Winner in the Performance I was and of Performance Cruiser Henley Cup; Scott Chalmers’ Sigma 400 Henley Cup; Scott Chalmers’ took the Chippy Fine Recordati’s Wally 80, which former accomplish- Yacht Woodwork Cup for the Trophy for the latter. In ment, and the Big Banana Hugh Bailey on the Performance Cruiser II, winner Beneteau 456 Richard Burbridge’s Investment Bank Trophy, while Swan 43 for victory in Performance Cruising III. for victory in Performance Cruising to In the Cruising Classes, in addition Cuyler Morris’s Morris 45 don’t need a carbon-fiber machine to excel. to machine a carbon-fiber need don’t his vintage fiber- Lammers and sailor Hans Antiguan Bounty, glass Rhodes Cruising Classes; Winner in the Cup for Overall Deeth in Cruising for the victory Inn Trophy the Admiral’s for Best Antigua Air Station Trophy the Antigua Class II; Trophy B; and the American Express Yacht in Division Yacht in Division B. for Best Caribbean categories, prizes were awarded in 37 Altogether, 98 in each for first, second and third including prizes the awards presented throughout class, and special multiple prize-winner was Clay fleet. Another 68, Deutsch’s Swan Trade Marks Trophy for taking top honors in Racing 3; for taking top honors Trade Marks Trophy in Division Cup for Best American Yacht the Richocet Best Swan in Breweries Cup for the A; and the Antigua Division A. Wilment’s Rodgers 46 Other winners included Avia Universal Marina Sergio Sagramoso’s Waterhouse Coopers Cup; Beneteau 40.7 Race organizers are already turning their attention to the event’s 41st running, scheduled for April 27th to May 3rd, 2008. For more information visit www.sailingweek.com. Young Sailors to Attend World Championships For the fifth year in a row, ISAF’s Athlete Participation Programme (APP) will assist young athletes from developing sailing nations attending the Volvo Youth Sailing ISAF World Championship. Since its introduction in 2002, the APP has helped over a hundred young- sters attend the Youth Worlds. Not only does this give them the opportunity to compete against and learn from the world’s best young sailors, but APP sailors are able to return home having learned or refined tech- niques, drills and preparations learnt from some of the world’s top coaches. The APP provides financial support towards travel costs and entry fees. This year APP grants have been awarded to 11 male and five female sailors from Argentina, Barbados, the British Virgin Islands, Colombia, Guatemala, Paraguay, Uruguay, St. Lucia and South Africa. The 37th Volvo Youth Sailing ISAF World Championships is being hosted by Kingston, Ontario, Canada, from July 13th to 20th. St. Lucia’s first ever Youth Worlds representative, Laser sailor Luis Meixner, was St. Lucia’s Junior Sailor of the Year in 2006. Meixner is also a junior instructor for Optimist and Laser beginners at the St. Lucia Yacht Club, so the lessons he learns and experience he gains at the event will filter down into his nation’s youth programme. Attending the Youth Worlds from the BVI will be Laser sailor, Bryshaun Scatliffe, and Laser Radial sailor, Elsa Meyers, and Laser sailor, Gregory Douglas, will represent Barbados. For more information visit www.sailing.org/app and http://youthworlds2007.org. Trophy for capturing Cruising I, and Robert and Darlene Hill won the AHTA Cup for taking the Multihull Cruising class aboard their Switch 51,

WWW.PHOTOACTION.COM / TIM WRIGHT , e-mail: [email protected] z Stainless Fasteners Stainless Fittings VHF Radios Flares & Life Jackets Snorkeling Equipment Fishing Gear ABN AMRO ONE 452 0311 ) 758 ( Fax: z , a classic 1950s Rhodes design, was FOR YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, AND MORE YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, FOR . Said Sailing Week Chairman Neil Forrester, “It Johnson Hardware Ltd. Johnson Hardware ‘You don’t need a carbon-fiber machine to excel.’ Sunshine Overall Winner in ASW 2007’s Cruising Classes running of Antigua Sailing Week on his 38-footer, Enzian was a wonderful moment to have winners from such different eras together at the prizegiving. It really brought to mind just how much of a transition the event has gone through, and how far we’ve come.” One of the best things about this event is that you earning her the Lord Nelson Trophy. In addition, her skipper Mike Sanderson accepted the Curtain Bluff Trophy for victory in the Racing I division, and the Budget Marine Trophy for a win in the 2007 Caribbean Big Boat Series. Sanderson was joined on stage by Cesar Barrios of Puerto Rico, who won the very first BVI’s Pusser’s Painkiller Thriller for the third time in a row in a time the third for Thriller Painkiller Pusser’s BVI’s son, 44 minutes. His time of 29 with a blistering on April behind him. two minutes Sean, finished 17-year-old third. This windsurfer Waters was Owen Event organizer sail any board or format with an open class event is is the Original event sponsor, Pusser’s Rum, accepted. of the Royal was served onboard ships Navy Rum that Navy for 330 years. line far off Scrub Island with a start The race started clear the give competitors room to enough east to then a 20- Beef Island Bluff. It was notoriously windless Channel to ride in the Sir Francis Drake mile downwind Nanny Cay lagoon. the finish off the that has won the same strategy Ewan sailed following deep, fol- for the last two years — sail him the event and “go the south coast of Tortola low the lifts along the [Sir Francis Drake] no farther than half way across in the Pusser’s Pub in Channel.” At the prizegiving competitor in the fleet, Road Town, Ewan, the oldest considering the very tough said he was “very surprised everybody thought competition today… Obviously With Owen and the [Sean] was the winner today. sails, I was surprised to other big fat boards and nice there.” see myself getting through than the 20-knots forecast The wind was a little lighter for the tail enders. The and started to lose its punch year due, to some to event saw a smaller fleet this in Puerto Rico. degree, to an Elton John concert race with the entire fleet However it was a far closer where in past years finishing in less than two hours coming ashore four hours competitors have still been after the start. sixth and all three Ewan’s youngest son Alec was in their fifth Highland Andersons will be competing Spring HIHO in July. 40th Stanford Antigua Sailing Week The 40th Stanford Antigua Sailing Week, held April 29th to May 5th, had it all: ideal Caribbean sailing conditions; a fleet of over 200 yachts in 16 classes; a fine slate of winners and many memorable performances; and a week of parties that gave this milestone edition of this annual regatta the shore-side merriment it deserved. The Overall Winner was the Volvo 70 Chain & Rope Anchors & Fenders Electric Wire Marine Hoses Bilge Pumps Lubricants & Oils 452 0299 ) 758 ( Tel: Tel: z

in the J/24 Class in the 26th annual running of

Rodney Bay, St. Lucia Hat Trick for Pusser’s Painkiller Thriller Alastair Abrehart reports: Ewan Anderson won the Dominica Goes to Bequia! Anthony Gunn and Hubert Winston report: The Dominica Yacht Club’s (DYC) historic first outing saw a team fielded to race in the Bequia Easter Regatta, held April 5th through 9th. Anthony Gunn, Hubert Winston, Valence Victor and Allan Daisley entered Rover this popular regatta. As far as the record shows, this was Dominica’s first representation and introduction to a competitive sailing event. We were proud to be the first as this will not be the last in our efforts to promote Dominica sailing. The DYC team was mostly a training effort and did not sail with spinnakers, but started and finished all races, ending as high as fifth, and placed sixth overall. All team members declared the entire weekend experience a great success not only for themselves but also for the DYC and for Dominica in general. “So many people were very happy and impressed to see the big Dominica flag flying on the mother ship and to see a Dominica Yacht Club entry into regional racing,” says Anthony. “This first participation into regional sailing is a great step for the DYC and for Dominica,” adds Hubert. “We had a ball and were well received by everyone,” confirmed Val and Allan, rounding out the DYC team. The DYC has also entered the BMW J/24 Invitational Regatta in St. Lucia in May, and are looking at plans to continue racing the Dominica flag around the region over the coming years. For more information visit www.dominicayachtclub.com. the previous edition finished in Cuba, it was decided to the previous edition finished Galante, Guadeloupe. end the 2007 edition at Marie race, sailed on Figaro The single-handed, one-design 27 participants this year, Bénéteau boats, attracted who finished fourth all male except for Liz Wardley March 25th. It took the overall. The race began on and 9 hours to cover winner, Nicola Troussel, 21 days Ile (an island off south- the 3,436 miles between Belle Marie Galante. ern Brittany) in France and The arrival at Marie Galante was extraordinary as this island, not familiar with racing events, made every effort to welcome the participants. All racers say they will be back next time! For more information visit www.tropheebpe.com.

Belle Ile – Marie Galante 2007 – Marie Galante Belle Ile Legendre reports:Stéphane edition, the For its fourth after a race was named Trophee BPE transatlantic After song: “Belle Ile – Marie Galante”. famous French REGATTA NEWS REGATTA JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 ized bytheBVITourismBoard.TheBoard ing toNormanIslandwhereagreatpartywasorgan- enough togivetimeforaswimatTheBathsbeforesail- fall atRoundRock.ClearanceVirginGordawasfast time fortheBVIhadusmakinganearlymorningland- which helpedthemrecoverfromtheirdifficulttask. could comeoutofthem,evenwiththecheesetray more frequentandforsomeitwasclearnojudgment was thebestofeachclassmadeadditionalrounds mainly fromSouthAmerica.Uncertaintyastowhich different whitewinesandthreeredwines, Louis. Thegameconsistedoftastingandjudgingthree tasting contestwhichwasofferedbytheMarinaFort trades blowing. mile ridetilltheend,with10to15knotsofeasterly island ofDésirade,itwasjustanice160-nautical was difficultinthemorningbut,afterclearing new marinaatMarigot,MarinaFortLouis.Thepace board, weheadedforSaintMartinanditsbeautiful towards theeastandleavingDésiradeIslandtostar- Triskell association. phere attheMarinaYachtClub,headquartersof and gettoknoweachotherinaveryrelaxedatmos- ture, eacheveningwasanoccasionforustoparty well. Duringthethreedaysofourstaypriortodepar- agement andrallysponsorMadrasRumdidthings wide enoughtravelift!)TheMarinaBasduFortman- multihulls, butthemarinaisnotyetequippedwitha haul-outs forparticipatingmonohulls.(Sorrythe du Fort,atPointeàPitre.Themarinaofferedfree was notabigdealafterfewpartiesanddrinks! Switzerland wererepresented.Thelanguagebarrier world. Australia,France,Italy,Malaysia,Scotlandand opportunity tomakenewfriendsfromalloverthe alities, whichisformewhatarallyshouldbe:the sailors eagertotastewhatIhadpreparedforthem. multihulls, carryingacosmopolitangroupofabout30 good sizedfleetdividedevenlybetweenmonohullsand through April8th.Tenboatsregisteredthisyear,a Transcaraibes yachtrally,whichranfromMarch16th ed duringthethree-week-long,eightheditionof Islands, theDominicanRepublicandCubawerevisit- After alastswimatGrandCasebay,latedeparture Some rallyparticipantswillneverforgetthewine- The firstlegstartedatGosierIslet.Tackingupwind The GuadeloupedeparturepointwasMarinaBas We enjoyedtheparticipationofsixdifferentnation- Guadeloupe, SaintMartin,theBritishVirgin Guadeloupe toCuba in 13FunStops on JostVanDykeendedourstayintheBVI. lowing dayawonderfulpartyatthewellknownFoxy’s who alsoofferedafreeexcursiononTortola.Thefol- presence oftheDirectorTourism,JanisBraithwaite, beach restaurant,wherewewerehonouredbythe also treateduswithanexcellentmealatTheBight Hotel wassafein25knotsofwind.Afteronenight’s destination. TheanchorageinfrontoftheSalinas the group. our friendTony,whowasanendlesssourceofhelpfor and fingerfoodwereofferedbyCommodoreFini tiful CasadeCampoYachtClub,wherefreecocktails and othersites.Eacheveningwasspentatthebeau- of activity,visitingSantoDomingo,AltosdeChavon Dominican Republic.Ourthree-daystaytherewasfull marina andthebestplacefromwhichtoexplore an idealplacetoleaveyourboatinaluxurious,safe Republic. MarinaCasadeCampoisagoalformany, from MarinaCasadeCampointheDominican by StéphaneLegendre Las Salinas,ahundredmilesaway,wasournext Two hundredandfiftymilesseparateJostVanDyke TRANSCARAIBES 2007 people. Wesampledthefamous surroundings, givingatasteofCubaanditsfriendly organized forallparticipantstovisitSantiagoandits International YachtClubinHavana.Anexcursionwas Miguel DiazEscrichfromtheHemingway was honouredbythepresenceofCommodoreJosé and pleasantofficials.Therally’sclosingceremony were accomplishedwithnoproblemsbyveryhelpful the finishatSantiagodeCuba’snarrowentrance. westerlies, thenrainandnothing,motoringto name. Atfirstwehadlightvariablewinds,thensouth- Passage betweenHaitiandCubadidnotdeserveits northeast wind,thisyearthenotoriousWindward we allleftforthattwo-dayjourney. Cuba, 300milesaway.Afteralastdrinkonthebeach, on toournextandlastgoaloftherally,Santiagode intact. Everyonewantedtostay,butwehadmove water wastransparentandcoralsflorawere seen, judgingbythequestionstheywereasking.The We wereprobablytheonlysailingboatsthey’dever a fewfishermensellinglobstersatunbeatableprices. miles long,goldsand,andnotasoularoundexceptfor quietest beachIhaveseenintheCaribbean.Five at theHaitianborder.Thisismostbeautifuland wedding anniversaryofacoupleinourrally. all ofthem,astheyjoinedusincelebratingthe31st our group.Wehadaterrificpartyonthebeachwith you howpleasedtheyweretoseesomelife,thanks without goingtothemainlandonce.Noneedtell officers dosixmonthsnon-stopdutyonthisisland, by offeringcoconutstoalltheparticipants.TheNavy were aroundandaveryniceNavyofficerwelcomedus ed becauseoftheEasterholidays.Onlytenpeople men normallywork,butduringourstopitwasdesert- Beata isanislandwhereacoupleofhundredfisher- Beata atthesoutherntipofDominicanRepublic. rest, wehadanotherwindypassage—80milestoIsla and finishinSantiagodeCubaonApril19th. gather atMarinaBasduFortonMarch29th,2008, advantage ofthisoptionwhenreturning. great help—thankyou,Tony!Manyboatstook having toclearimmediatelyataportofentry.That’s in theDominicanRepubliconhisreturntripwithout participant wouldbeallowedtostopinanyanchorage Dominican Navy,sayingthatanyTranscaraibesrally to getaletterfromtheAdmiral,ChiefofStaff ier. OurfriendTonyatCasadeCampoevenmanaged for thereturnjourney,whichwouldmakethingseas- stopped atonthewaytoCubawerepossiblestopovers Lesser Antilles.Allofthe13anchorageswehad Europe aftertherally;allotherscamebackto beautiful andunusualcountry. they wanttocomebackwithmoretimeenjoythis in alate-1950satmosphere.Allrallysailorssaidthat Tradiciones, atypicalplacewherelocalartistsperform Hemingway’s favoritecocktail)attheCasadelas The fleetfilledthealmostemptymarina.Clearances Although lastyearwehadexperienced35knotsof The followingmorningweleftforBahiaLasAguilas, For moreinformationvisitwww.transcaraibes.com. The nintheditionoftheTranscaraibesrallywill This year,onlytwoboatsweresailingbackto mojitos (Ernest JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 : Norbert Dember, : Felix Ollivierre, Bequia : Coli Ollivierre, Bequia (179) , Samuel Forde, Mayreau , Clayton Deroche, Petite , Victor Hazell, Mayreau Damien Harry, Canouan , Roy Delisle, Petite Martinique , Nick Harry, Canouan , Ken Deroche, Petite Martinique , Eran Bethel, Petite Martinique , Andy Deroche, Carriacou , Adolphus Forde, Canouan , Benson Patrice, Carriacou 2007 Winners Now for Now Matrix Pimpy Ark Royal Fidel Nerissa J Progress, Electric 3 Robin Hard Target Bad Feelings Mayreau Regatta Mayreau FISHING COMPETITION Heaviest total catch Mayreau (147 pounds) Most fish caught Heaviest single fish (14 pounds) 2) Martinique 3) Class 3 1) 2) 3) Class 4 1) 2) Class 2 1) 3) 2) DOUBLE-ENDERS Class 1 1) On Saturday night, the Miss Pee Wee Pageant was night, the Miss Pee Wee Pageant On Saturday as far as partying on the Sunday brought the peak, aboard Tony Crimi is cruising the Caribbean ical tradewind conditions: winds from the east at 15 to at 15 the east from winds conditions: tradewind ical of us Those showers. with scattered 20 knots, for the seats Bay had front-row in Saline anchored here ships calling With no cruise finishes. starts and for the staging area became the beach that weekend, non- The fast, party grounds. the regatta boats and to four. As in boats carried crews of two displacement most impor- we’ve seen, one of the other local regattas bailing. tant tasks was The five con- up on Station Hill. held at the school, Jady Forde, seven and eight, were testants, ages Badenock Shaniah Raguette, Razanni Tiffany Forde, The win- Grant. All had local sponsors. and Ronessa considering Forde. The girls all did well, ner was Jady front of such none had performed in that it was likely entire event, the pageant a large crowd before. Like the pride. was an example of community food and beverages were beach went. Music, local showed up. If you needed available to the crowd that the cricket match taking a break, you could watch visit with the racers tend- place at the foot of the hill, to the quiet beach on the ing their boats, walk over hill and enjoy the grand windward side, or hike up the Monday morning, the site view of the Tobago Cays. By Mayreau returned to the had been cleaned up, and is. quiet island that it usually S/V Ticketoo. by Tony Crimi Below: Party central! Regatta headquarters, Mayreau style

omewhere between the hustle and bustle of

Bequia, and the nature experience of the Tobago Cays, lies Mayreau. We’ve come to

S By chance, we happened to be in Mayreau during The 18-boat fleet raced in four classes. One race

An Island Showcase Island An 2007 MAYREAU REGATTA MAYREAU 2007 their 2007 Mayreau Regatta, held April 26th through 29th. The four-day event organized by the Mayreau Regatta & Sporting Committee was their first but, judging from the number of participants and visitors it drew, it won’t be the last. The event included a fishing tournament, games and a pageant, in addition to two days of sailboat racing. The racing drew boats from Union Island, Petite Martinique, Carriacou and Canouan, in addition to those from Mayreau. took place on the Saturday and two on Sunday, in typ- appreciate Saline Bay as one of the best places in the Grenadines to relax in the company of friendly people. With fewer than 300 residents, it doesn’t take long to feel like part of the community. Above: The spacious beach at Saline Bay became the staging area for the races, with many fine examples of the Above: The spacious beach at Saline Bay became the staging Grenadines’ double-enders taking part JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 443) and Trinidad andhisgroupIMIJ&Co.,withvocalist at theCrownPointHotel.GuitaristJoeyNgWaifrom enormous crowdfilledthelawnofRegattaVillage prevailed inthefirsttwodaysofregatta. rough andsteadynortheasterlywindsaround15mph was perfectweatherforsailing,theseanottoo year, butthatcouldn’tdampentheracingspirit.There in theNorthSea,justtotakepartTobagoSailWeek! from theShetlandIslands,200milesnorthofScotland Annie T to go,itwaswideopen.Ishouldmentionthecrewon Annie T only fourboatsregistered— Merlin were inatightcontestwith done, theladiesfrom eight-boat CruisingClass,withtwooftheirfourraces Huey Too 44), H Bruggadung II Charter, Cruising,Cruiser/RacerandRacing. the latestpositionsofboatsinfourclasses: Insurance respectively,gotmeuptospeedquicklyon sored bytheYachtServicesAssociationofT&TandGulf for theprevioustworacedays,whichhadbeenspon- filled meinwiththelatestregattadetails.Resultssheets party. BettyDavidson,RegattaPromoters’manager, Tuesday afternoon—justintimeforthepre-layday Compass Anniversary PartyandIhadthehonortobethere! main sponsorAngosturaputonaspirited25th HAPPY ANNIVERSARY TOBAGO! 25TH ANGOSTURATOBAGOSAILWEEK (Beneteau 53F5), entries, boat RacingClass.IntheCruiser/RacerClass’seight (Henderson 35)wereallinhotcompetitionthe11- But backtomyarrival.Atthepre-laydayparty,an Thirty-one boatsinallcametorace,fewerthanlast During thefirsttwodaysofracing,whichImissed, As usual,Iarrivedlateinthegame.Mymainjobat I Ltd., theTrinidad&TobagoSailingAssociationand this yearmadeabigdifference:RegattaPromoters t seemslikeonlyyesterdaysinceIwasinTobago.But igh Tension/bmobile (Excalibur 36).AndintheCharterClass,with . Forthethirdtime,guyscameallway (Jeanneau 51), Wayward by WilfredDederer Ambrosia didn’t letmesneakoutearlier,soIarrivedon (Cal 40)wereallbattlingforhonours.Inthe (Beneteau First), Petit Careme (Bavaria 42)—withtwomoreraces (Beneteau Oceanis432), Business Machine Alimata 3 Nirvana (Mumm 36)and Saga Boy (Beneteau First38)and Storm (Beneteau Cyclades (San Juan34)and (Jeanneau 50), (Riechel Pugh (Heritage 36) Rapajam Enzyme Inset: SkipperAndrewBurke(centerrear)andhisexcellentcrew at TobagoSailWeek2007,heldMay13thto18th. Pride ofBarbados! eating crackersanddrinkingwateratthesametime? ski withthreepeopleononepairofskissandwhile fun playingallkindsofsillygames.Didyouevertryto by boat.Participants,guestsandsponsorshadalotof you canaccessthissecluded,white-sandbeachonly cial permission)throughprivateland,butnormally went therebyaregattashuttlebuspassing(withspe- drinks, foodandgamesonNoMan’sLandbeach.I cians, hadthecrowdgoingtilllongaftermidnight. Michelle (youshouldseeherdancing!)andguestmusi- Wednesday wasLayDay,celebratedwithlotsof Bruggadung II blasting throughhotcompetitiontowardanoverallRacingClasstriumph and ahalfmiles Committee explained:“Weputthecourseaboutone years, PeterKnoxfromtheTTSAManagement Peter delaRosafortakingmeclosetotheaction. organisers —abigthankstothemotoryacht’sowner two racedaysfromthepressboatprovidedby go outonthewatertotakepicturesofremaining Now youknowwhatImean! This year’scoursehadchangedfromprevious After twodaysofpartying,Iwasmorethanreadyto farther north…

—Continued onnextpage —Continued ALL PHOTOS: WILFRED DEDERER WILFRED PHOTOS: ALL JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 skippered were thrilled , skippered by Huey Too, with skipper David Annie T to take first overall, with Wayward Saga Boy in overall third. a French entry skippered by Raynee , skippered by Lloyd de Roche, broke , skippered by Lloyd de Roche, Merlin Business Machine with skipper Paul Solomon, in fourth place. with skipper Paul Solomon, , skippered by veteran Barbadian racer Ralph , skippered by veteran Barbadian Alimata 3, Nirvana In Cruiser/Racer Class, In Cruising Class, it was a clean sweep for Trinidad In Cruising Class, it was a After all prizes were given, speeches made, the dinner In Charter Class, See you at next year’s Angostura Tobago Sail Week points, closely followed by fellow Trinidad entry points, closely followed Enzyme, of the Trinidad & Jerome McQuilkin, the President won six out of eight races Tobago Sailing Association, was runaway overall first. and, with just 11 points, Rapajam and Johnson, was overall second by Bernie Evan-Wong, a former Trini boat now based by Bernie Evan-Wong, a former in Antigua, took overall third. boats. the tie with Portillo, into overall third. skipper Marsha Farfan and her famous ladies-only skipper Marsha Farfan and followed closely by Rupert crew taking overall second, Grimshaw’s Downie from the UK made first overall with two firsts and two seconds. The guys on with their overall second (including first in Race 2!) beating plates emptied and the last drop of champagne drunk, everybody was united in their opinion: What a great sailing week it was! But the organizers still had a last sur- prise for the guests: Denise Plummer, Trinidad’s famous soca artiste, entertained the crowd with her greatest hits. — scheduled for May 11th to the 16th, 2008. tacti- Storm’s , skippered by , skippered by Storm High Tension/bmobile had a terrific time at the Tobago Sail Week had a terrific time at the Tobago Annie T Skipper Robert Thomson and his crew John 1, John 2, John 3, Kenny, Steven, Allan, Scott and Terry his crew John 1, John 2, John 3, Kenny, Steven, Allan, Skipper Robert Thomson and on cian John Gladstone says, “Everyone loves coming to Tobago; Les has made all of us crew very happy by bringing us here!” Trinidadian Michael Rostant, came third with 54 Californian Les Crouch, with 46 points. overall was the Trinidad-built Keeping up the family tradition, Business Machine skipper Marsha Farfan accepts the prize for Overall 2nd in Cruising Class. Marsha’s mother, Brenda, launched Business Machine’s successful ‘all-girl’ racing career tied High having second Rapajam Business Wayward Merlin , with two sec- in the Charter Wayward ; third was a tie and . just one point behind. just one point Business Machine Annie T Nirvana and with Andrew Burke on the Saga Boy Storm Bruggadung II Alimata 3 two seconds, placing . In Cruising Class, and Nirvana was still in second place overall with was still in second Rapajam Huey Too Bruggadung II, Ambrosia came in first, with After the daily prizegiving in the afternoon, the After the daily prizegiving On Friday, the last racing day, sponsored by the Hilton, And when it was all over, at the Prizegiving Ceremony On the Thursday, Charter and Cruising Class had Class and Cruising Thursday, Charter On the And no big surprises: helm, defended their first-place standing going into the final race with yet another daily first, which, with a third and a fourth place, made them the Racing Class Overall Winner for the second year in a row. Second organizers had planned a Karaoke competition for the organizers had planned a Karaoke too well in sailing you evening, so if you hadn’t done I had an early night at the could give it a shot singing! from home during the Hilton Tobago, my home away good care of me! Betty regatta — the sponsors took of the Regatta Promoters Davidson, heart and soul Karaoke night was a hit, office, told me later that the not to sing! At this but I had come to take pictures, ladies in the race office, point I also want to thank the Nancy, Phyllis and Renata, for their help. the crews lined up again at the newly constructed floating dinghy dock to be shuttled to their boats. It was another glorious race day. The wind picked up even a bit more, sometimes close to 25mph. There was the usual shouting and whistling around the marks, the crews on the boats fighting to secure their final positions. and Dinner on Friday night, it was clear that the Barbadian Class came second after between on points for overall first place going into the last day on points for overall first place of racing. Our friends from and third, leaving way in the lead after three days, followed by way in the lead after three and then Machine The Cruiser/Racers ended up with The Cruiser/Racers ended one more day to go, with one more day —Continued page from previous cur- considerably less that there is being …, the advantage to like seem really wind. The sailors more stable rent and racing Point; the Lagoon and Pigeon course off the the new already was.” better than it got even and Racing had two races, one race, Cruiser/Racer 15 and was east-northeast, between had three. Wind a bit choppy on the starting line only 20mph, the sea — great conditions. ond places and one first, held the number-one spot one first, held the number-one ond places and was en route day and, barring disaster, after the third her place as overall winner. to securing Tension/bmobile two firsts and JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 temperatures of72°F, ing areaofBoquete.At4,000feet,withyear-round inland mountainsofPanamaandthecoffee-grow- both forthemandthemarina. dockmasters/managers, whichwasagreatmove Mirage California friendsChuckandAnnSilversaboard Shortly afterourreturninNovember,old along withanicesprinklingoftransientcruisers. local Panamaniansmakesforaninterestingmix, lagoon. Thevarietyofbackpackers,surfersand bars, andrestaurantsperchedonstiltsoverthe experiencing amajorrealestateboom. banana shippingintheearly1900sandisnow little BocasTownwasoriginallyacenterfor area madeforsomegreatgunkholing.Thequaint marina, andthesurroundingAlmiranteLagoon and onewasdismasted75milesfromSanAndres. the reefsalongNicaraguan/Hondurancoast January 2007,twowereabandonedandloston leaving BocasMarinainDecember2006and some nasty“norther”coldfronts.Ofthefourboats December firstunlessyouarewillingtododge Eastern Caribbean,onedoesnotheadnorthon dow. Wehavelearnedthathere,unlikeinthe January afterwaitingforthatelusiveweatherwin- Panama toHonduras, for somegreatgunkholing’ surrounding AlmiranteLagoonareamade enjoyed ourstayatBocasdelToro.…andthe The BocasdelToroanchorageatsunset.‘Wereally Phone: +(5999) 4658936 Fax: 4658941 Email: [email protected] We alsomadeafewinterestingsidetripstothe There aremyriadneatlittlehotels,waterfront In andAroundBocasdelToro We reallyenjoyedourstayatBocasdelToro;the Viva New marinecenterpresentsthelatestDutchinnovationinboathandling equipment. finally leftBocasdelToro,Panama,inmid- arrived andsoonbecamethenewmarina Curaçao Marine by SteveJost Hauling capacity45tonsandCatamarans upto33ftbeam. —Continued onnextpage —Continued Ducking ‘Northers’ Safe drystoragewith24hourssecurity We arelocatedinthesafeharbor ofWillemstad. AWLGRIP® indoorspraypainting and manyotherservices. - Long-termstorage. www.curacaomarine.com JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15 —Continued on next page Isla Providencia Our next stop was Isla Providencia, another Today a Yamaha, tomorrow the Harley! Colombian island, about 60 miles north. Providencia is much more laid-back than San Andres. to escape the masses. For a circumnavigation of the of For a circumnavigation the masses. to escape took a which a motorscooter, one day we rented island for first-time event this was a as little encouraging to heal! marks for the fingernail am still waiting Pam. I With a population of more than 100,000, it is neces- The anchorage at Isla Providencia, ‘where God takes his vacations’. Here it was kick-back time The anchorage at Isla Providencia, ‘where God takes his for some snorkeling and a nice walk usually associated with the cruise-ship crowd. For the cruising sailor, the duty-free status makes for good provisioning and we found several good markets and restaurants. sary to explore the back side of the island if you want is a mix of salsa, reggae and even a dash of country dash even a and reggae salsa, mix of is a jew- of duty-free is the usual mix There and western. trendy stores, discount liquor stores, elry/perfume are outlets that electronic and “wholesale” boutiques, Our first leg north was a calm 200-mile motorsail to was a calm 200-mile Our first leg north Andres Glimpses of San in front of passage and anchored We had a smooth buildings. There are some beautiful beaches inside the barrier reef and we found the locals to be extremely friendly and helpful. They are mostly descendants of English Puritan settlers, Spanish explorers, Jamaican woodcutters and a variety of pirates who roamed and ruled this area centuries ago. The music Isla San Andres, a duty-free vacation island for a duty-free vacation Isla San Andres, off the Only 100 miles wealthy Colombians. island is a it is interesting that the Nicaraguan coast, away. It was Colombia, over 400 miles possession of land of blue of the rain and back in the nice to be out and brilliantly clear water. skies, tradewinds Marina. The but friendly little Nene’s the dilapidated a pricey private yacht alternative was Club Naútico, a week to use their dinghy club which charges US$50 low-lying San Andres has dock. Only 12 miles long, a lot of tacky 1960s and been largely overbuilt with much in need of repairs, ’70s architecture that is colonial West Indian mixed with a lot of charming —Continued page from previous rain from the heat, change offers a welcome Boquete also been discovered coast. It has of the and humidity Eastern Caribbean, unlike the retirees. Also, by expat in seems to start this area season in the rainy through January. continuing November, ‘Tomorrow the Harley!’ Pam and Steve braved a circumnavigation by scooter of Isla San Andres JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 ant motorsail,weweregreeteduponarrivalbyMr. population ofonly4,500people.Afteranotherpleas- tiful andmountainouswithgreen-coveredhillsa The islandisonlyeightmileslong,butquitebeau- frompreviouspage —Continued Spot thehat?Pamindulgesinaserenesolosoakatdesertedbeach alongside andquicklytookcareofallthecheck-in takes hisvacations,”wasgreetingastheytied cers aboard.“WelcometoProvidencia,whereGod ful launchwithbothCustomsandImmigrationoffi- Bush, thelocalship’sagent,whoarrivedinabeauti- lost inthispoorly-chartedareaovertheyears. I wouldn’tattempttoguesshowmanyboatshavebeen along theMosquitoCoastofNicaraguaandHonduras. ous minefieldofoffshoreatolls,coralreefsandcays in theBayIslandswindsitswaythroughatreacher- that theCaliforniansarealwaysmostfun. of thetime!Wethink,afteralltheseyearscruising, and weatherguruwhoisalwayscorrect…50percent machines. Damienistheself-appointedrouteplanner refrigerated winelockersandespresso/cappuccino icemakers, satelliteTVwithallthelatestDVDmovies, “mother ships”,completewithwasher/dryers,multiple Celestial 50fromNewportBeach,havebecomeour and DamienDebbieaboard Hoofbeats point andcruisinginfo.TonySharonaboard sending backconstante-mailupdatesofweather,way- on leaving Panama.PatandMaryAnnfromLongBeach eling withseveralfun-lovingCaliforniacouplessince coconuts withfruitandthosecutelittleumbrellas. pit andagreatassortmentofrumdrinksservedin palm-shaded tables,hammocks, about theperfectbeachbar/restaurant,completewith Rolando’s Hideawaywaseverythingyoucanimagine Roland, alocalJamaican-descendantRastadude. off asideroadatneatbeachhangout,ownedby would haveit,atthefarendofislandweendedup species ofbirds,insects,butterfliesandplantlife. nal bowl,whilehikingandstudyingthethousandsof you cansleepinatentcabinandeatfromcommu- and numerouseco-lodges,whereforUS$500anight world. Thereareseveralwell-runrestaurants,hotels the surroundingbarrierreef,thirdlargestin navigation oftheislandandsomeoutstandingviews an oldDutchfortandaspectacularviewoftheharbor. or so,thenclimbsupthroughthejungletoruinsof Catalina Island.Thepathfollowsthewaterfrontforamile snorkeling andanicewalkoverfootbridgetoSanta we’ve visited. ments allovertowninthemiddaysunofotherports paperwork. Afarcryfromtheschleppingofdocu- From Providencia,the350-milepassagetoGuanaja To theBayIslands At thispointImustmentionthatwehavebeentrav- Buddy Boats We optedforthebargain“motophoto”tour.Asluck Once againwerentedamotorscooterforcircum- For thenextfivedays,itwaskick-backtimeforsome Sailor's Dream , abrand-newBeneteau52fromDanaPoint, have beentravelingabitaheadofus —Continued onnextpage —Continued palapa Ticket ToRide bar, barbecue , a JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17 opted to stay in a swanky Ticket To Ride and Our next destination is Belize but first we decided to Off to Roatan Off most largest and Roatan, the was off to Next, it end of the we moved around the west The next day little marina on the south shore for a while, so it was time to part company. sail to La Ceiba on the mainland and check out the local boatyard there for a possible haulout in the fall. We are currently up a muddy river in the little Lagoon Marina, having arrived a day before the next “norther” hit. We’ve had two days of cold rain and wind, but it is predicted to be clearing tomorrow. developed of the Bay Islands, 30 miles to the west. Our to the west. Islands, 30 miles of the Bay developed spot, a dilapidated Harbor, was at French first stop a few fleet and a large shrimp home base for that is large grace is a only saving sailboats. Its rag-tag a short distance away. supermarket inside a long anchorage located island to a beautiful in paradise Once again, we were back barrier reef. seen in ages. the clearest water we have with some of is a world-class dive cen- The little village of West Bay and lots of funky little ter with numerous dive shops There were only four beach bars and restaurants. we soon learned this is boats in the anchorage and definitely not a good spot to be when the “northers” arrive. Roatan has also been discovered by the gringos as a place to invest in property and we passed numerous new, plush, gated developments. Our friends on Hoofbeat Bonacca is a four-acre island, jam-packed with narrow streets and stilt houses. There are no cars and the only access is by boat Guanaja following morn- day makes. The difference a What a years with hit hard in the past few Guanaja has been which devastated the northeast side of the island. This which devastated the northeast forest fire that wiped was followed by an uncontrollable the middle of the island. out a third of the forests in dive resorts, hotels and Several attempts to develop housing have also failed, but in spite of it all, the island remains a beautiful spot without all of the commercial aspects of other islands in the area. While exploring some of the little neighboring cays, we ran into Bill and Martha Pullum, a Florida couple who bought one of the cays several years ago and are currently building a 200- boat marina adjoining a 500-acre townhouse development. They invited Pam and me to join them the next day with some friends for a launch ride, lunch and a snorkeling trip on the north side of the island. To recip- rocate, I offered to photograph Bill’s marina project from his helicopter, which he keeps on a pad next to his house. This included a two-hour aerial tour of the islands. I think I got the better part of the deal. ing broke bright and sunny and we set off for a 15- we set off for sunny and bright and ing broke and clear Customs to Bonacca to dinghy ride minute mile island a half is a four-acre Bonacca Immigration. narrow with jam-packed Guanaja, from mainland of more than and a population streets, stilt houses, and the There are no cars on the island 10,000 people. by boat. only access is Mitch disasters, starting with Hurricane several natural After another calm overnight passage, we arrived at calm overnight passage, we After another complete are actually three little cays The Vivorillos received reports on the The following morning we gurus were wrong. Well, once again, the weather After hand steering most of the night to relieve the In order to break up the trip and eliminate some night some the trip and eliminate to break up In order the designated waypoint coordinates, only to find waypoint coordinates, the designated islands, no water — no palm trees, no nothing above The Maybe it all sank in a hurricane. breaking reefs. more than that the depth went from only clue was After cir- than 25 feet. Pretty spooky! 2,000 feet to less decided to area for awhile, we all cling the shallow the Vivorillo and then depart for anchor overnight arrival. Cays for a daytime fish camp and several with palm trees, a sizable anchor was set we were shrimp boats. Before our local fishermen who were approached by a couple of tails, two bags of cleaned willing to trade ten lobster and legs for a half pint conch, and a bag of crab claws and two recycled of local rum, a pack of cigarettes Life is good! baseball hats. Such a deal. cold front approaching SSB net of a strong “norther” Since the Vivorillos offer in approximately two days. to depart immediately minimal protection, we decided of Honduras, a 160- for Guanaja in the Bay Islands mile passage. The first 50 miles was a Our good luck had run out. knots of wind and six- beautiful beam reach in 15 of impeding doom was a foot seas, but our first clue at dusk from the large black cloud approaching had increased to 20 to north. By nightfall, the wind to build. For the 25 knots, with the seas beginning next eight hours we were hit with intermittent cold rain squalls, with the wind building in the 25- to 30- knot range. By midnight it was a steady 35 knots with ten-to 15-foot seas on the beam. As luck would have it, the wind moved forward, and by dawn we were experiencing 40 knots. autopilot, daybreak was a welcome sight, except for the ugly skies and seas. The last couple of hours the wind came on the nose, which meant motorsailing into 45-knot gusts and some really huge breaking seas. Needless to say, we were happy to arrive at the Guanaja entrance buoy. Other than a few frayed sails and nerves, we didn’t suffer any major damage. passages, we had all decided on a couple of overnight decided on a we had all passages, found an anchor- chart Damien an obscure stops. On was I am sure Cays, which the Edinburgh age called late 1700s. in the last surveyed —Continued page from previous JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 Luperon Chamber ofCommercevolunteeredtoprovidethe huge amountofmoneyforthelocaleconomy.The a month.With70boatsintheanchoragethatis nity, withtheaverageboatspendingaboutUS$1,000 shown theimportanceofcruiserstothiscommu- Chamber ofCommerce.Shetoldusstudieshave set upameetingwithregionalofficialsandthe as follows: join us. we gotSobeitaBrito,thelocalDirectorofTourism,to the helpof“HandyAndy”,everyone’sfavoriteboatboy, pressing problemstopresentlocalofficials.With meeting ofthelocalcruisersandchosefourmost something forthisyear’sclass,soweorganizeda you far. don’t speaksomeSpanishyourargumentswon’tget your US$10insteadofthe$20theyaskedfor.Ifyou often “unofficial”atbest,sotheymaybehappytotake that maybebecausethefeestheyarecharging argue withlocalofficialsandreachacompromise.But boats areanchored,itislikelyashoal. ful ruleofthumbis:ifyouseeabigareawhereno shoals aresandyandgenerallyeasytogetoff.Ause- new arrivalsconstantlyrunonto.Luckilytheseharbor South Sant’s directionsin could sinkyourboat.Togetinsafely,BruceVan whether youshouldgotoportorstarboard.Starboard pretty muchuselessbecauseitdoesn’tindicate ball tomarktheentrance.Thewhitecolormakesit last fewyearstherehasbeenonelargewhitemooring in troublecomingthroughtheouterreef.For in just30days. flourish onyourboat,dinghy,anchorrode,etcetera, believe thenumberandvarietyofcreaturesthatwill your boat’sbottomscrapedonceamonth.Youwon’t and itissofullof“organicmaterial”you’llhaveto can’t swiminit,youmakepotablewaterfrom important caveats. mend thisdelightfulanchoragetoo,butwithafew ing thehurricaneseasonof2006there.Idorecom- I Sobeita listenedintently,tooknotesandpromisedto 4) Inconsistentandincreasingfees,whilefeworno 3) Repairsonthedinghydock,whichwasunsafe 2) Markersontheshoalsinharbor. 1) Theneedforaredandgreenmarkertosafely Our issueswere—frommosttoleastimportant Last year,the“LuperonClassof’06”wantedtodo As tofees,Juliawascorrectinthatitispossible Once inside,thereareseveralunmarkedshoalsthat The mostseriousproblemisthatitpossibletoget The biggestnegativeaboutLuperonisthewater.You Bougainvilla services wereprovided. and sinking. bring boatsintotheharbor. issue of the AlmostPerfectHurricaneHole”inApril enjoyed JuliaBartlett’sarticleabout“Luperon, should befollowedtotheletter. The Rest of theStory D D Compass E E S S Gentleman’s GuidetoPassages . Wehadthepleasureofspend- T T I I N N : A A Union Island T T I I O O N N S S October 2006blogentry,“MutinyinLuperon”. site: web.mac.com/famouspotatoes2.Gotothe minutes ofourmeetings,theyarepostedonmyweb- much moreresponsive.Ifyouwouldliketoseethe see continuityfromyeartoyear,theywillbecome dialogue withSobeitaandotherlocalofficials.Ifthey age theClassof’07topickaleaderandcontinue unreasonable US$15toaridiculousUS$20.Iencour- even togosailingfortheday,hasincreasedfroman which hadtobepaideverytimeyoulefttheharbor, the innershoals.Astofees,departurefee, Derrick on official navigationalmarkers.Iheardthatourfriend with. Thanks,Sobeita!Unfortunatelytherearestillno repaired andthatissomethingweareveryhappy has beendoneinLuperon.Thedinghydockwas beginning tochoosetheiranchorages,yetnotmuch funds befoundtodoso. labor tobuildusasafenewdinghydock,shouldthe All inall,IstillrecommendLuperonastheperfect Well it’sanewyearnowandtheClassof’07is [email protected] Res: VHF16,Tel: (784)4588878 Palm Island,Mopion Day Charter,Mayreau,Tobago Cays, Wind andSea [email protected] Res: VHF16,Tel:(784)4588878 (Blocks &Cubes),Bakery(Frenchbread) Water Station,Dockage,Watertaxi, Ice The Dock [email protected] Res: VHF16,Tel:(784)4588311 and itsGiantAquarium Apr), Bar,Pizzeria,Pool,TableGames Seafood specialties,Livelobsters(Septto Seaquarium Restaurant&Bar Bougainvilla@vincysurf .com Tel: (784)4588316 Bathing suits,Furnitureandmore… Souvenirs, Craft,TeeShirts,Pareos, Okaou Boutique Unity has placedsomewhitemarkerson by JackFoard and anactivesociallife a goodanchorage,lowcrimerate,inexpensivefood Once you’vemadeyourwaysafelyin,Luperonoffers Famous Potatoes. the DominicanRepublic.Ihopeyouenjoy. has quiteafewarticlesandpicturesofLuperon Luperon. Mywebsiteweb.mac.com/famouspotatoes2 into ananchorageandnotfoundoldfriendfrom Over thelastsixmonthsitisrarethatwehavesailed community andfriendshipsthatmaylastalifetime. about 70to90otherkindredspiritsandyouwillforma out andexplorethisbeautifulfriendlycountry. cheap andsociallifeisabundant.Rentacarget were stolen,butallrecoveredeventually),foodis crime againstcruisers(afewanchorsandamotorbike only willyoubesafefromstorms,thereisalmostno always besomeofourfondestmemoriescruising.Not place tospendhurricaneseason.Ourmonthstherewill Jack FoardiscruisingtheCaribbeanaboard Perhaps theverybestpartisyouwillbeanchoredwith JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 and I’ll be sun21 sun21 SITUATED IN Fax: +7674487701 VHF: 16 Working CH: 19 UNIQUE IN DOMINICA THE CITY OF ROSEAU Capitainerie Tel: +7672752851 www.dominicamarinecenter.com [email protected] is now up for auction. Wüst is already plan- is now up for auction. Wüst is sun21 & soon Mercury Marine • Dinghy Bar • Fuel (Marine Diesel) / Water at the dock • Dinghy dock • Nearby laundry service • Secured moorings • Night security • Ice & Provisioning (Grocery store) • Bakery • Clean restrooms and showers • Garbage disposal • Telephone & internet WIFI connection • Yacht chandlery agents of Budget Marine • Light boat repair and cleaning • Activity desk (Tours, diving and water sport activities) • Visa / Master Card accepted wanting lulls and plenty of sun.” lulls and plenty wanting the day was during solar power generated Half the powered be continuously the yacht could stored so dropped speed the boat only the night, and through time. periods of for extended sky was overcast when the Marc conceived by Swiss shipbuilder The journey was 14-metre of MW-Line. The 12-tonne, Wüst, manager C60, based on the MW-LINE Aquabus catamaran is cruise being used as a tourist which is successfully 8kW Twin electric motors produce boat in Europe. of seven the boat to a maximum speed each to push long-range on energy-conserving knots, or five knots cruising. The building of the night-and-day trip expenses were funded by a group of individuals were funded by a group of trip expenses the transatlantic21 Association. calling themselves buy and prepare for the Costing about US$575,000 to trip, the globe in a similar boat. ning a circumnavigation of the Whale Watchers Trained guide and naturalist A five-day whale-watch tour by the International training workshop, sponsored and CARIBwhale, the Fund for Animal Welfare (IFAW) operators, association of Caribbean whale-watch Participants includ- began on May 14th in Dominica. Belize, Dominica, ed residents of the Bahamas, & the Grenadines, Guadeloupe, St. Lucia, St. Vincent Republic. Grenada and the Dominican [was] to provide partici- “The main focus of the course to safely and effectively pants with the skills necessary dolphin watching conduct successful whale and Trinidad-born Director excursions,” said Dr. Joth Singh, at IFAW. “There is of Wildlife and Habitat Protection in the whale watching tremendous potential for growth part of the global interest industry in the Caribbean, as in eco-tourism. We are opening up opportunities not only to individuals currently involved in whale watch tour guiding but also to fishermen and to young people who could join the industry. The intent is to ensure that opportunities within the whale watching sector are broadened to create benefits for more people.” “By providing an exceptional whale watch experience to visitors in the Caribbean, we can do our part to promote tourism here,” added Andrew Armour, President of CARIBwhale. “Whale watching helps the whole tourism economy, with whale watchers contributing economically through hotels, shops, restaurants and transportation.” UNEP to Tackle Caribbean Marine Litter The development of a draft “Regional Action Plan for Marine Litter Management in the Wider Caribbean” was part of a pilot project initiative conducted by the United Nations Environmental Program (UNEP) Caribbean Regional Coordinating Unit with support from UNEP’s Regional Seas Programme. The primary goal of this pilot project was to assist in the environmental protection and sustainable development of the Wider Caribbean Region related to the prevention and reduction of marine litter. The ubiquitous presence of marine litter, coupled with its physical, ecological, cultural, and socio-economic complexities, poses one of the most severe threats to the sustainability of the natural resources, sensitive habitats, wildlife and people of the Wider Caribbean. As part of this project, a review document was prepared on the existing status of marine litter issues and programmes, including a compilation of the available historical marine litter data. The draft “Regional Action Plan for Marine Litter Management in the Wider Caribbean” can be downloaded at www.cep.unep.org/operational-components/amep- resources/draft-regional-action-plan-for-ml-mgt-in-thecaribbean-29mar07.pdf. For more information visit www.cep.unep.org/operational-components/amep/marine-litter. Caribbean hoping for good winds. But on But winds. for good hoping Caribbean skip- sun21 sun21 quotes On the Water VHF Ch68 or Tel: (784) 458 3474 VHF Ch68 or Tel: Closed on Mondays silently motored into New York City on sun21 Open from 11:00am to 10:00pm. to 10:00pm. Open from 11:00am the Frangipani and Plantation House. In addition to our famous pizza we offer Situated in Admiralty Bay, Bequia between Admiralty Bay, Situated in MAC’S PIZZERIA seasonal specialties and fresh baked goods. For Reservations: per Michael Thonney as saying before the journey, “I spend many weeks each year on my yacht in the from Spain to the USA at five to six knots via electric engines. a real-time seismic monitor has been installed on the installed been has monitor seismic a real-time Jenny, located Kick ’em underwater volcano active rocks and eight of The Sisters west three kilometres a team of In May, north of Grenada. kilometers with and affiliated by the NSF scientists funded marine (WHOI) Institution Hole Oceanographic the Woods the only telemetry to monitor this, began using radio Caribbean. volcano in the Eastern active submarine since has erupted at least 12 times Kick ’em Jenny 2001. major eruption occurred in 1939; the last called a Real Time Offshore The seismic station, seis- (RTOSS), uses an ocean-bottom Seismic Station RTOSS directly on the volcano. mometer deployed high-frequen- data to be transmitted by allows seismic a nearby vil- land-based observatory in cy radio to a milliseconds will reach the shore within lage. The data of being collected. telemetry has been “This is the first time that radio an underwater seismic used to transmit data from Reves-Sohn, a WHOI monitoring station,” said Rob leader. Scientists will be geologist and RTOSS project and exhaling” of the able to observe the “inhaling expels seawater, magma volcano as it draws in and and superheated fluids. its efforts with the The research team is coordinating Agency in Grenada and National Disaster Management of the West Indies the Seismic Unit of the University will be incorporated (www.uwiseismic.com). The data network in the Lesser Antilles. into the regional monitoring is advised to observe a All shipping, including yachts, around Kick ‘em Jenny, 1.5 kilometre exclusion zone 12.3004°N, 61.6378°W. whose crater is centered at Grenada Legislation International Group Protests announced its On April 27, The Nature Conservancy amendment to opposition to a recently passed Grenada’s National Parks and Protected Areas Act that would allow the sale of national parks land in Grenada to private developers. Terry Adams Williams, Director of the Conservancy’s Southeast Caribbean Program, said, “This legislation seems to have been enacted so that private developers would have access to lands contained within any protected area…. This move will have serious implications for Grenada’s national parks, including Mt. Hartman National Park, which represents some of the last remaining habitat of the Grenada Dove, a bird that exists in no other place in the world. The legislation will also impact the Woburn-Clark’s Court Bay Marine Protected Area, which has some of the healthiest mangroves in Grenada.” He added, “In recent years, Grenada had demonstrated leadership and long-term vision with its efforts to design and implement a representative and functional national system of protected areas. With the passage of this amendment, the government has undone all the good it accomplished — all for the short-term gain to a private developer.” Minister of the Environment Anne David-Antoine had previously declared that the government of Grenada would “protect 25 percent of its marine and terrestrial areas by 2020,” a move that spurred other Caribbean countries, including the Bahamas and Belize, to make similar pledges. Solar Cat Crosses Atlantic A motorised catamaran recently made a slow but successful transatlantic crossing without consuming a drop of fossil fuel. Stored solar energy powered the May 8th, completing a non-stop 3,500-nautical-mile passage in 52 days. It’s the first time that a solar-powered vehicle has made the transatlantic crossing. A May 15th report in

BEQUIA Tel: (784) 458 3041

Eco- News New Location at Gingerbread Café Underwater Volcano Monitoring The US National Science Foundation (NSF) reports that Caribbean Specific Climate Change Caribbean Specific Assessment Needed reporting for Panos Caribbean: Dawn Marie Roper, at the University of Professor of atmospheric physics is calling for more the West Indies, Anthony Chen, change in the research to be done on climate and assessing Caribbean, especially in forecasting impacts on the region. done, especially in the “More research needs to be “We need to find out regional models,” says Chen. causing temperature what are the major factors and we need to use a sta- increases in the Caribbean that is designed for the tistical downscaling model use is really designed for Caribbean. The one that we temperate climates.” who wrote the about cli- Chen is one of the authors for the recently mate change issues in the Caribbean Panel on Climate published Intergovernmental Report. Change (IPCC), Fourth Assessment Meteorological Day, In a presentation made on World that the global climate March 23rd, Chen pointed out change are large scale, models used to predict climate like Jamaica.” He and they “do not see small islands also said that there are not many peer reviewed publi- cations on sea level rise in the Caribbean, which are sources of information for the IPCC. He was proud, however, that for the first time in the IPCC assessment there was a section on small islands, but he noted that only temperature and precipitation changes were considered in making the climate change predictions. Nothing definite, he said, was reported about sea level rise or hurricanes in the region. The IPCC’s Fourth Assessment Report (AR4) will present its predictions on the Caribbean climate this summer. According to the AR4 predictions, all Caribbean islands are very likely to warm during this century but the warming is likely to be less than the global aver- age. Professor Chen added that temperature data from the Piarco International Airport in Trinidad show temperature increases of a little more than two degrees Celsius. Data from the Jamaican Met office show that both maximum and minimum temperatures in the region were high. “We can be certain about temperature changes for the Caribbean because all the models show increases. The extent will depend on the (greenhouse gas) emissions,” he reported. With regard to precipitation, he said rainfall in the Greater Antilles is likely to decrease in June to August and December to March. He was unable to say what would happen in the other islands. Professor Chen also mentioned findings on hurricanes from a global climate model run conducted in Japan. This model concluded that the North Atlantic hurricane frequency will increase during the century, but that this was recommended as an area for more research. According to the AR4, climate models indicate that during the century sea levels rise will continue around the islands, but the rise will not be geographically uni- form. There are no regional models for sea level rise for the Caribbean. JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 travel throughouttheregionfromSt.Lucia,through yachting clientele.Withthisaddition,boaterscan and affordsusevengreateropportunitiestoserveour Caribbean definitelycomplementsourexistingassets strategic positioningofthesepropertiesinthe Andrew L.Farkas,CEOofIslandGlobalYachting.“The International intotheglobalcollectionofIGY,”said “We arepleasedtobringthemarinasofSunResorts subsidiary SunResortsManagement(SRM). acquisition ofSunResortsInternational(SRI)andits nas, hasrecentlyannouncedthatitcompletedits mier developers,managersandownersofluxurymari- Island GlobalYachting(IGY),oneoftheworld’spre- IGY AcquiresSunResorts all awaitvisitorsdownatBasil’sBar. inhibition-banishing cocktailsandarespitefromreality remember thatgreatburgers,succulentseafood, possible. So,whenpassingthroughtheGrenadines, organic Basil’sBarevenabitmorespiritual,ifthatwas pavilions fromBali.Thechangeshavemadethe bamboo seatingwithremarkableantiquecarved bar anditsstructures,recentlyreplacingsomeofthe intervening years,Basilhascontinuedtomassagethe somehow thatsuitedtheclientelejustfine.In were madeofbasketsfilledwithconcrete—but wiches andtheoccasionalbarbecue,seats time. Themenuinthosedayswaslimitedtosand- rum shopwhichgraduallyevolved,onetableata bar certainlyhas.Itsfirstincarnationwasthatofatiny may nothavechangedoverthelast30years,but Basil’s Baroverlooksthesparklingsea.Thelocation Perched ontherocksofBritanniaBay’sshoreline, cess ofBasil’sBar. is thisrampanthospitalitythathassustainedthesuc- hearts ofeveryone,fromtheelitetoeveryman.It gifted withacharmandmagnetismthathaswonthe Vincent, notknowingaMerlotfromfiletmignonbut the breeze.BasilwasbornandraisedinruralSt. whose laughtereruptswithregularityanddanceson At thecentreofthisnexusgaietyisBasilhimself, its ownright. novels, making“toBasil”closetobecomingaverbin Basil’s hasbeenimmortalizedinsongs,moviesand captured inlegionsofgossipcolumnsandmagazines. that havemarkedthelastthreedecadesbeen and amused.Thefamousthefancifulmoments way toBasil’sBarbefêtedandfed,entertained were right—mogulsandmajestyhaveallmadetheir Basil’s intheend”wrote “Like Rick’sBarinCasablanca,everyonegoesto operation ofMustique’slegendarywateringhole. Bar celebratesbothhis60thbirthdayand30yearsof Charles thismonth,astheworld-famousownerofBasil’s Mustique willswellwithcelebritiesandfriendsofBasil Dianne WilsonreportsthatthetinyGrenadineislandof Basil’s Celebrates30Years Business S S t t Briefs . . akgsPc pcl:+(599)553-3850 /+(590)690-222473 Packages Pick–up call: M M n.0135021 -al [email protected] 001-3057042314 E-mail: Int. a a a a r r t t e e n n The SundayTimes and deliver allyour goods. All you neediscontactustofast pickup Documentsetc. Freight, Overnight Packages, Express packagesanddocuments, same day, collect anddeliver doortolocalthe offer thenew system delivery Martin, St. Maarten/ the DutchandFrench sideofSt. fast andefficientCOURIERSERVICES to CIRExpress give newspapers etc... magazines, pallets, parcels, If you needtotransport , andthey [email protected] orcell(599)586-6709. For moreinformation,contactDanielPenningat ONE guest sailinglessonfollowedbyatourof ber PhilHarmerrecentlytreatedtheyoungsterstoa are heldat9:00 which islocatedatthebridgeinSimpsonBay.Classes lessons, usingOptimists,takeplaceattheYachtClub, youthsailing TheSMYC take themthroughthelagoon. sailing course,sailorscanthenrentthem“solo”and Lagoon Sailboatrental.Aftercompletingthetenhours ing lessonsareavailableonJeanneauSunfast20sfrom Theadultsail- ing programmanager,DanielPenning. both childrenandadults,taughtbySMYC’snewsail- The SintMaartenYachtClubofferssailinglessonsfor Sailing ClassesinSt.Maarten Virgin GordaYachtHarbour,seeadsonpage31. For moreinformationonSimpsonBayMarinaand For moreinformation,visitwww.igymarinas.com. berths intheworld.” are oneofthelargestmanagersanddevelopers development, andanother36,000beingplanned,we the company.Withnowover5,000slips,existingorin Caribbean, butalsoaddsdynamicleadershipacross gives ustheleadingpositionthroughout portfolio ofpropertiesintotheIGYfamilynotonly acquisition. “BringingtheSunResortsteamandits echoed Farkas’upbeatstatementfollowingthe Island GlobalYachtingpresidentCharlesGarner Caribbean offeringsalone. Resorts acquisitionadds442moreberthstoIGY’s interest inthethreeotherCaribbeanfacilities.TheSun Yacht HarborinSt.ThomasoutrightandallofSRI’s As apartofthetransaction,IGYacquiredAmerican Harbor, VirginGorda;andVillageCayMarina,Tortola. Bay YachtClub,St.Maarten;VirginGorda ities are:AmericanYachtHarbor,St.Thomas;Simpson Texas andfourintheCaribbean.TheCaribbeanfacil- management ofanadditional11marinas—sevenin Through itsacquisitionofSRM,IGYhasnowassumed private yachts. has attractedsomeoftheworld’smostspectacular well asresidentialunits.Sinceitsopening,themarina rants, entertainmentandrecreationalamenities,as upland developmentofworld-classshopping,restau- logically advancedandarecomplementedbyits are consideredbytheindustrytobemosttechno- yachts ranginginsizefrom60to500feet.Itsfacilities opened inSt.Thomas,USVI,andcanaccommodate signature marina,YachtHavenGrande,hasjust service andqualityatmarinasacrosstheglobe.IGY’s work ofpropertiesisalsosettingnewstandardsfor enhancing andrevitalizingtheirlocalareas;net- According toIGY,theirdevelopmentsarenotjust ence ofanIGYmarina.” to St.Thomasandalwayshavethepremierexperi- the DutchAntilles,intoBritishVirginIslands,andon Volvo OceanRacerand US$10 forSMYCmembersand$15non-members. — muchtotheenvyoftheirparents! AM on Saturdaymorningsandcost ABN AMROONE ABN AMRO crewmem- o oeifrainvstwww.marigotbay.com. For moreinformationvisit Cup amemorabletimeforvisitorsandlocalsalike.” on thebeach).ThishelpedtomakeCricketWorld including thehighlysuccessfulAlgozinLaBas(cricket wide rangeofcricket-relatedcommunityactivities Hathaway wasinstrumentalinhelpingtoorganizea full houseonthedocks,butmarinamanagerBob Manager, MollyMcDaniel.“Notonlydidwehavea the bay,”saidTheMarina’sPRandMarketing “World CupCricketwascertainlyanexcitingtimefor spare foryachtsupto240feet. largest oftheCaribbeancruisersandstillhasroomto Marina atMarigotBayiscapableofhandlingthe over thesemi-finalperiodalone,provingthatThe were someninemega-yachtsinexcessof150feet eventual winners,Australia.Amongthefloatingvisitors and thesemi-finalmatchbetweenSouthAfrica gent ofsuperyachtsvisitingtheislandforgroupplay The MarinaatMarigotBayattractedalargecontin- produce theexpectednumberofland-basedvisitors, hoteliers inhiscountry,withthetournamentfailingto Cricket WorldCupwas“alittlebitofadisaster”for Although St.Lucia’sMinisterofTourismsaidthatthe Howzat foraTurn-Out! other satellitenetworks. A1 andA2,beyondthecoverageareasofall the coverageareasofterrestrialsystemsinsea and datacoveragenotonlywithin,butalsobeyond, national standards.Iridiumisabletoofferbothvoice systems (SSAS)thatarecompliantwithIMOand e-mail, crewcallingfacilities,andshipsecurityalert voice anddataservices,includingbusinesscrew satellite network.Iridiumoffersanumberofmaritime es andrelatedequipmentusingtheIridiummobile Iridium partnersalreadyprovidethesetypesofservic- report theship’slocationatdifferentintervals.Several satellite system(GNSS)equipment;and,theabilityto a directinterfacewiththeship'sglobalnavigation ing eitherfrominternalposition-findingequipmentor Key requirementsinclude:automaticpositionreport- Testing oftheLRITsystemisduetostartduring2008. bility ofservicesofferedtothemaritimecommunity.” maritime agenciesbyenhancingtherangeandrelia- tive isakeystepinourefforttosupportthenational waterways. ParticipationintheinternationalLRITinitia- new securityinitiativetoprotectships,portsand “Iridium ispleasedtobeablesupportthisimportant Greg Ewert,Iridiumexecutivevicepresident,said, to portsandshipping. cious patternsofbehavioratseaandidentifythreats also makeitpossibleforauthoritiestoidentifysuspi- port toexistingsearchandrescuefacilities,LRITwill fic intheirwaters.Aswellasprovidingadditionalsup- permit portandcoastalstatestobettermanagetraf- to monitorthelocationsoftheirshipsatalltimesand global maritimesafetyandsecurity,enableflagstates embarked oninternationalvoyages.LRITwillenhance identity andpositionatregularintervalswhen ships andmobileoffshoredrillingunitstoreporttheir LRIT isaninitiativeoftheIMOthatwillrequiremost new globalsafetyandsecuritysystem. Iridium networkisuniquelypositionedtosupportthis over allseaareas,includingthepolarregions, only mobilesatelliteservicewithtrulyglobalcoverage range identificationandtracking(LRIT)ofships.Asthe Iridium confirmeditsnetwork’sabilitytoprovidelong- Maritime Organization’s(IMO)COMSAR11meeting, Following therecentconclusionofInternational New SecurityInitiative Iridium AnnouncesCompliancewith JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 , a charter angling Surf ‘n’ Turf MARTINIQUE BOATS FOR SALE www.acyachtbrokers.com E-mail: [email protected] The marina is owned by Jana Caniga and Dieter and Caniga by Jana is owned marina The showed us were met by Dieter, who Upon entry we its old and new history The lightship is amazing, engine room. When this For me the treat was the old During the afternoon, Dieter and Jana have a beautiful barbecue and Come evening, Alex fired up the smoker and, using This was one of those evenings. You know the sort of I’m sure Jana and Dieter will do well in their proj- Good luck to Jana and Dieter; they work hard and Port de plaisance du MARIN A&C YACHT BROKERS Burkhalter. They are cruisers themselves and have a and cruisers themselves They are Burkhalter. have obviously and Dieter Swan 53. Jana lovely The great detail. through in this project thought also and they are complete, itself is nearly marina bungalows and two-bedroomed some one- building bay. In the land overlooking the on their adjacent sailmakers, will also be mechanics, same area there and a mini-market. along the took our lines. Jana came our berth and we finished us and told us when dock, welcomed and take a most welcome to come mooring, we were We made the area and the lightship. look around voyage from after our “long” everything shipshape felt strange to took a walk ashore. It Prickly Bay, and concrete floating dock as step off the boat onto a dinghy. opposed to jumping in the restaurant. Dieter and being documented in the ship’s galley and the restaurant Jana showed us around the the head chef responsible and introduced us to Alex, and in the snack bar which for meals in the restaurant deck is an old light tower will be finished shortly. On the top and appreciate the that you can enter, climb to reefs. views of the bay out to the steam, but it was ship was built, it ran on coal-fired ago. Dieter told me that converted to oil many years the previous week, only they had the engine running worked. An engine of this for a short period, but it effort to start than mod- type involves slightly more to put the pistons in the ern-day diesels. You have using a giant metal bar. correct place to start with, the flywheel, two people After engaging this bar in the crankshaft enough to standing on it can revolve get the pistons into position. Each cylinder is then heated with a kind of blowlamp, using an open flame at the top of the cylinder head. Compressed air is then fired into the cylinder, forcing the piston down, and thereby turning the crankshaft. Fuel is then injected and the engine continues to run. I’m not an engineer, but that’s my understanding of its technology — or lack of. I’m sure Dieter would gladly show anyone around and explain. boat, came in for an overnight berth. The owner had just returned from a charter and brought with him a couple of fish for the evening’s barbecue: a mahi mahi and a barracuda. These were promptly handed to Alex to prepare. smoker; it looks like an old steam-driven tractor engine. There are three chambers that run horizontal- ly, the right-hand one of which is used for the fire. Wood is a good fuel, though charcoal can be used too. The centre chamber houses the grill where the food is cooked by heat, but without flame. The left-hand chamber/chimney has stacked shelving; any food placed on these shelves is cooked by smoke. the barracuda, demonstrated its ability. Have you ever smoked a barracuda? I can tell you, whether you like barracuda or not, this is the best! A fine appetizer was thus provided while Dieter supplied drinks and Jana prepared an impromptu salad. Alex then cooked the mahi mahi on the centre section of the barbecue. thing: people just show up, someone brings some fish or sausage and throws it on the barbie, a few beers and good company are enjoyed. ect, which will be operational June 1st. The project, unlike many, uses local labour and, when it is finished, will be an advantage to the local community as well as the cruising and boating community which Grenada relies on to a great extent within its tourism market. I am not a marina person, but I think the facilities are good and cruisers are certainly welcomed, in contrast to so many new projects which cater only for the megayachts. deserve to succeed. And if you want to see a good example of a lightship, pop round and see them. SS SS EE EE EE EE CC CC II II UU UU VV VV QQ QQ RR RR II II EE EE NN NN SS II SS II

TT TT KK KK RR RR II II AA AA HH HH MM CC MM CC II II Full Service Station: BB BB Mobile: +696 29 28 12 Conveniently located at - Grocery - Ice - Cigarettes - Cold Drinks - Fuel/Diesel/Gas - Laundry - Call Station Tel: +596 74 70 94 Fax: +596 7478 08 Tel: Open 7am to 7pm Sundays: 7am to 1pm - Breakfast (Coffee, Croissants) - Fishing Items The entrance to this bay is quite straightforward, as Carenantilles Dockyard LE MARIN long as you check the charts and spot the marker buoys lining the entrance through the reefs. At the head of the bay is La Phare Bleu. You can’t miss it: there is a large, bright red Swedish lightship on the starboard side of the marina. The ship is crowned with the blue-painted light housing that gives the marina its name. any visiting boats for a few days’ free stay, in order to any visiting boats for a few photo shoot. In true fill a few berths for an aerial contacted them and cruiser fashion, my wife Yvonne take advantage of their asked if we could come and who said we would be offer. Yvonne spoke to Jana, have a barbecue for you very welcome, “and we’ll also hectic week, we shopped in the evening!” So after our wine, rum, and flour so for the basic necessities — — and set off for the east- Yvonne could make bread ern side of Calivigny Island. by Phil Chapman Chaser ll

Didier and Maria . And we’d also been waiting for an inflatable . And we’d also been waiting

Saturday by appointment

tel/fax: (596) 596 74 88 32

A TASTE OF TASTE A located at Carenantilles dockyard LE MARIN/MARTINIQUE e-mail: [email protected] Open Monday to Friday 8-12am 2-6pm

Sails & Canvas (repairs & fabrication) MARINA LIFE! MARINA Voiles Assistance So, it was a strenuous week. How we have to suffer It was then we heard on the cruisers’ VHF net that They all arrived during the same week, so They all arrived during the We’d been anchored in Prickly Bay for a few weeks while We’d been anchored in Prickly when cruising the Caribbean! the new La Phare Bleu Marina was opening its dock to which weighs 250 pounds; the old generator, also 250 pounds; and the 150-pound bow-thruster, which we lowered through the companionway to be stowed under our nav-table seat. was in chaos while we shifted weight from one side of was in chaos while we shifted to make room for, and the boat to the other in order replacement generator, then winch into place, the toy — no, not a doll, a sailboat-cum-windsurfer. toy — no, not a doll, a sailboat-cum-windsurfer. awaiting a new generator, a factory replacement from awaiting a new generator, waiting for a bow-thruster Fischer Panda. We’d also been Cruisin’ Canuck friends on to be delivered to us for our Ladyhawke Above: Grenada’s newest yacht facility has a unique feature: a floating restaurant housed in a former lightship Above: Grenada’s newest yacht facility has a unique feature: Her engine still runs Below: The Swedish lightship in its original occupation. JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 YAMAHA GRENADA W.I. TRUE BLUE,ST.GEORGE’S, cnyeBros.Ltd. McIntyre EQUIPMENT MARINE SERVICE SPARES (DUTY FREEPRICES) ENGINES KMRN TEL: (784)4571806FAX:4561364 TOURS &CRUISES-CARJEEPRENTAL Y AMAHA MA Located CALLIAQUA,St.Vincent email: [email protected] PHONE: (473) 4443944/1555 E-mail: [email protected] PAIE opposite Howard’sMarine Outboard Engines2HP-250HP Duty-Free EnginesforYachts FAX: (473)444 2899 P.O. Box17,Kingstown Parts -RepairsService R INE DISTRIBUTOR LTD industry professional tounderstand. react inamannerwhich isdifficultforthelaymanand dire circumstancescauses theinsurerstosometimes the sustainingofamarket foryachtinsuranceinsuch commendable and sometimes heroic.Unfortunately yachts inthefaceofunprecedentedloss experienceis Their actionsinmaintaininganinsurance marketfor complex andsometimeshostilebusiness environment. pay theirclaimsandfunctionadmirably intoday’s fused jumble. and today’syachtownersareaninteresting andcon- gross understatementtosaythattoday’s yachtfleet concepts embodyingseaworthinessand utility. Itisa come byageanduse,orhavestrayedfar fromdesign today’s insuredyachtingfleethaveeither beenover- practical fortheirintendedservice,somesegmentsof lack basicseasense.Whilemostinsuredyachtsare ward eventscausedbyover-confidentboatownerswho numerous groundings,strandingsandotherunto- been tosalvors,surveyorsandboatyardsdue unintended consequencethereofistheblessingithas While theGPShasmadenavigationeasierforall,an across oceanswithoutasinglepaperchartonboard. identify portandstarboardwhileundertakingvoyages yacht ownerswhowearredandgreenshoelacesto come tomind.)WiththeadventofGPSwenowhave the restofrealworld.(Thewords“purenutcases” bly bedescribedas“eccentrics”whodonotthinklike escapees frommodernsociety,andwhatcancharita- nists, idiots,geriatrics,geniuses,adventurers, include competentandbusinesslikeowners,hedo- across life’ssocialandintellectualspectrumto management, theyachtinsurancepopulaceranges often drivenbyeconomicsensewithprofessional today. Whilethecommercialmarineassuredismore should benotedtofullyunderstandyachtinsurance commercial marineassured,adifferencewhich mine alone.” surveying firmandtheopinionsexpressedhereinare before Icommence:“Idonotrepresentanyinsureror The surveyor’subiquitousdisclaimerisappropriate sion adaptedtotherealitiesofNewMillennium. spective asthetraditionalmarinesurveyingprofes- change andconspicuousconsumption. that onlytwothingsarecertainintheyachtingworld: knows whatnext? monohulls beingsupplantedbymultihulls—andwho the stratosphere.And,horrorofhorrors,I’mwatching sel operationandyachtvaluessurgeupwardbeyond Hunters andLittleHarbors.I’veseenthecostsofves- replaced bytheSeaRays,Oceans,Beneteaus, Pearsons andColumbias,whichinturnarebeing by thefiberglassHatterases,Bertrams,Morgans, Stephens, ChrisCrafts,AldensandHinkleysreplaced Everywhere, Man”,I’veseenthewoodenElcos, sion systems.ToparaphraseHankSnow’s“I’veBeen electric, hydraulic,water-jetandotheryacht-propul- fiber yachthullsandthediesel,diesel-electric,eco- fiberglass, steel,composite,aluminumandcarbon- powered yachtandwaspresentforthebirthof ture andablurringofthelinesresponsibility. has resultedinamuchmorecomplexbusinessstruc- things marineinthelasthalfoftwentiethcentury yacht surveyor.Theunprecedentedgrowthinall ing hastodayproducedatruenauticalhybrid—the edge of“boating”,theunprecedentedgrowthyacht- surveyed byamastermarinerwhohadlittleknowl- nocrats. While60yearsagoayachtmighthavebeen veying organizationsandlonewolfsurveyor-tech- surveyor —werereplacedbyamultitudeoffinesur- the localshoresideshipmaster,mateorengineer-cum- veying operations—USSalvage,Londonand Millennium. Ihadafront-rowseatastheold-linesur- er intheyachtinsurancebusinessofNew mid-1980s andbecamereincarnatedasaminorplay- Yacht Insurance, In theyacht insurancerealmthere aremonumental Nevertheless, itismyexperiencethatyacht insurers The yachtassuredisafardifferentanimalfromthe An InterestingandConfusedJumble This journeyhasprovidedmewithauniqueper- All oftheseeventshavemademecometobelieve I attendedthedeathofwooden-hulled,gasoline- I escapedthecommercialmarinebusinessin Past, Present and Future by GuyMatthews recommendations and detailsofthelossoccurrence. the assured,statusof compliancewithpre-losssurvey survey findings,candid commentsaboutthelossand with aninformal(often handwritten)recapitulationof vessel inthetraditional mannerandfirstprovidesus list ofcompetentsurveyors.Thissurveyor surveysthe facts andassignasurveyorfromourin-house informal able causeofloss.Wequicklyassemble theavailable a firstanalysisofsubrogationpossibilities andtheprob- accurate lossreserve,detailsoftheinsurance coverage, report with are focusedonproducingacomprehensive preliminary marine underwritingisacombinationthereof. — surveyingisascience,adjusting anartand mental truthsofmarineinsuranceremain unchanged mystery toclaimspersonseverywhere,butthefunda- underwriting anditssecretscontinuetoremaina and underwriting.Theancientmysticalartofmarine claims astheinsurerwantshandled. sion oftheinsurer’sclaimsdepartmentandhandle handling. Inotherwords,weactasanabbreviatedver- not, issubjecttotheinsurer’sethicalviewsonclaims beyond thetraditionalsurveyfunctionand,likeitor type ofservicecompanyinvolvesresponsibilitiesfar ma totradition-boundsurveyorsindaysofyore.This many ofwhichfunctionswouldbeconsideredanathe- the claimandhandlingactualpaymentofclaim, reviewing damagesurveys,followingrepairs,adjusting increasing hordeofpiratesmaskingasyachtsalvors, age, coordinatingsalvage,sometimesbattlingwiththe and reinsurers,surveyingororderingsurveysofdam- clause, investigatingtheaccident,reportingtoinsurers survey submittedtocomplywiththepolicy’s application forinsurance,reviewingdetailsofthehull the confirmingofaccuracystatedfactson ment ofanadjustedclaim.Ourresponsibilitiesinclude primary determinationofcoveragetotheactualpay- type ofservicecompanyisamodelforthefuture. sionalism andreducetheircosts.Ibelievethatthis ways tooperatemoreefficiently,increasetheirprofes- managing generalagentsandlargebrokersareseeking idea whichissucceeding,inpartbecauseinsurers, and othersingle-specialtyfunctionaries.Itisaradical ing platoonsofinsurer-supervisedadjusters,surveyors ates asacontractualclaimmanager,therebyeliminat- of thefuture,anoperationinwhichasinglefirmoper- a harbingerofthemarineinsuranceserviceoperation ance isbetterthannoyachtinsuranceatall. all,” itisclearthatthecurrentlyavailableyachtinsur- comment that“prohibitionisbetterthannoliquorat er, seemshorrendous.ToparaphraseWillRogers’s in thefaceofalossexperiencewhich,tothisonlook- ers havekeptaninsurancemarketinplaceforyachts should bethankfulthatthesesometimesbraveinsur- faults anddraconianterms,theyacht-owningpublic today’s yachtinsurancepoliciesarenotfreefrom entire marineinsuranceestablishment.Although times bestowsaharshandunfairjudgmentonthe gets mostofthepublicity,forwhichpublicsome- a varyingextentbyeachinsurer.Thedifficultclaim covered, anddamage,whenisreimbursedto dling practicesareinthethroesofchange. an attempttoquicklysettleaclaim.Yachtclaimhan- send representativesoutwithcheckbookinhand tool inassessingdamage.Meanwhile,otherinsurers surveyor withacopyoftheoriginalhullsurveyas the distantpastthattheydonotevenprovideloss some insurers’practicesremainrootedsodeeplyin requires thatsomereformstakeplace.Nevertheless, size andincreasingcomplexityoftheyachtbusiness house personnel,ithasbecomeclearthatthesheer vising theminutiaeofalossadjustmentusingin- hiring theoccasionalsurveyorandphysicallysuper- insurers continuetooperateinatraditionalmanner, coverage, philosophyandattitudes.Whilemanyyacht differences inunderwriting,claim-handlingpractice, When aclaimisreportedtoourfirm,initial actions We havelittleifanyinvolvementinpolicywriting We dealwithallaspectsoftheyachtclaim,from In mynewberth,weestablishedwhatIbelievetobe The NewContractualClaimManager Most importantly,noteveryeventisintendedtobe a recitalofthebasiclossfacts,reasonably —Continued onnextpage —Continued JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 PM VHF CH68 Daily Bequia – 10:30 Phone (784) 458-3458 The Flamboyant Hotel AM St. Vincent, W.I. 458-3758 AM lunch and dinner We serve breakfast, Duty Free Duty ) North shore Admiralty Bay [email protected] Chandlery E-mail: Ph/Fax: (784) 458-3360 784 The Flamboyant Hotel -midnight (50% off all drinks) ( PM Tel: (473) 444-4247 in Lower Bay,in Lower Bequia OPEN until 3 Tel: Pool *** Sports TV *** Admiralty Bay, Bequia & 11 Open Daily 6:00 Located at PM RESTAURANT & BAR Candelight Dinners Monday to Saturday Monday -7 PLEASE RESERVE! Cocktails *** Relaxation *** Parties *** Information & Reservation: (473) 444-4247 Come and find us amongst the trees! & Shoreline Mini-Market in Grenada for fun and fine food for in Grenada Noelina & Lennox Taylor welcome you! PM A friendly atmosphere where you can sit and meet people. A friendly atmosphere where you The home of Grenada’s Longest Happy Hour!! Monday: Grenada Buffet & Crab Races Wednesday: Steel Band Music Friday: BBQ Dinner & Extempo Calypsonian 4 BEACHSIDE TERRACE Beachside Terrace - your special place special TerraceBeachside - your ★ PORTHOLE RESTAURANT & BAR & PORTHOLE RESTAURANT Located directly on the beach at both

JANE GIBB ” (Oscar value. The Yacht Owner’s Sundowner Stories, and Moreover, proper reporting requires written words In the Years Ahead It is impossible to predict with certainty what the I believe that there is a place in the yacht insur- I believe that in the future there will be more claim- This article was excerpted from a presentation given Guy Matthews is the author of I suggest that “for insurance“ surveys be no more “for insurance“ surveys I suggest that concise and should be equally The damage surveys strate damage. It is necessary for the report writer to depict damage in words. A few photographs are nice but should never be embedded in the report. which make sense. I regularly see surveyors who report on a vessel’s “new replacement Wilde’s comment about those who don’t know the difference between price and value comes to mind.) Ill- thought-out verbiage or faulty reporting detracts from the impact of the survey. yacht insurance business will look like in the years ahead, but I am certain that it will be different from the current model. Yachting has become as good an example of change and conspicuous consumption as can be found. The continued growth of yachting depends on many factors, not the least of which is the availability of insurance. The insurers who survive will have to be able to function effectively in an increasingly adversarial and hazardous market. ance business for a contractual marine risk-rating firm, operating much like the contractual claims manager. I once wrote a business plan for Marine Insurance Technical Services (MITS) which proposed a vessel/owner/area rating system for yachts. Unfortunately it went about as far as I could throw a storm anchor. I still believe that it is an idea which will allow the risk to be responsibly rated on its actual exposure. management firms handling all aspects of marine claims. The successful firms might be different from the firm described above, but the aggressive and enlightened marine surveyor is the person most capable of providing this service. Given the complexity of the modern yacht fleet, the competent surveyor with broad experience is better positioned to offer basic risk information to the insurers than anyone else on the planet. For example, this new approach could eliminate much of the broker-required written hurricane plans and other useless fluff and replace it with a sim- ple omnibus seaworthiness and storm-worthiness warranty for yachts. This new business approach will provide more opportunity for profit than a pure yacht- surveying business and will advance professionalism to the benefit of the yachting world. by Guy Matthews to the annual meeting of the US National Association of Marine Surveyors (NAMS) in Galveston, Texas, in April 2007. the vessel particulars, fair market value, condition of condition value, market fair particulars, vessel the recommendations and the and components, the hull vessel. of the and seaworthiness the safety affecting view recommenda- little need to have The insurers installation improvements, to cosmetic tions relating on pontification surveyor placards, of waste-disposal vessel, etcetera. operation of the by pages in length and accompanied than two or three listing the recommendations a separate attachment of the vessel. safety and seaworthiness affecting the in exact and should be framed All recommendations imperative language. to demon- on multiple photographs should not rely Guide to Marine Insurance: An Onboard Non- Technical Handbook, available from [email protected]. We provide the assured a written summary of rele- Good Surveyors’ Reports The surveyor’s reports are the most important tool in Since many insurers require not only a hull survey I am astounded by the superfluous fluff which some vant factors related to payment of the claim, including the field survey, information on deductible and depre- ciation, a written listing of the assured’s responsibili- ties in the event of loss, and a page from an infamous guide detailing useful facts for claimants submitting a yacht insurance claim. When repairs are completed, we review the costs and actually adjust the claim. We are available to the assured during the repair process to comment on those questions which normally arise in any damage repair. claim handling as well as being the objects by which the surveyor is judged by the world. I always empha- size that factual information should be reduced to writing and I always state that a surveyor’s verbal report does not eliminate the responsibility to reduce all — and I mean all — findings to writing. Photographs are nice, but the existence of photos does not negate the need to write descriptions of damage and other claim-related facts. of the potentially insured vessel, but also require a Letter of Compliance with Survey Recommendations for the coverage to incept, we see all types of survey reports. Many assureds submit a condition and valu- ation survey done for pre-purchase purposes to meet the policy’s survey requirement. Since a pre-purchase survey should be much more detailed and discrimi- nating than a survey for insurance purposes, the potential assured might find himself or herself in vio- lation of the policy’s survey requirement for a miscel- laneous noncompliance item such as the failure to replace a burned-out light bulb in the head. (I’ve never known an insurer to deny coverage for such an insignificant condition, but in today’s increasingly fussy technical environment, such a denial is not beyond the pale. I know of a dockside sinking claim in which a denial was proposed by a budding yacht insurance technocrat because the fire extinguishers were not tagged as recommended.) surveyors put in survey reports. I have in my files survey reports up to 45 pages in length on boats under 45 feet which could just as well have been two pages long. I find it hard to believe that competent surveyors are purchasing a computerized “universal survey report form” which is distinguished by the useless information included therein, the difficulty in locating pertinent particulars, and its excessive length. I strongly believe that survey report writing should be distinctive to the author, concise and sharply to the point. In the best of all possible worlds, the accuracy, conciseness and perceptiveness of survey findings, rather than sheer length, should be the justification for the fee. The insurer is interested in —Continued page from previous tra- later-produced and the recapitulation, This informal and “recommended”, with “found” field survey ditional or the of protest” a “note with a either combined for the preliminary are the basis statement, assured’s supple- report is Our preliminary the insurers. report to application adjuster’s review of the original mented by an and valua- and the original hull condition for insurance coverage. We one was required for the tion survey, if compliance and comment on the review this information accu- hull surveyor’s recommendations, with the original for insur- given on the application racy of information a multitude loss, amount of damage and ance, cause of preliminary factors. The properly done of other pertinent the road map to the final settlement. report becomes JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 use thisemailaddress: If youwouldlikemoreinformationaboutthisjoborsendyourCVtous,please Anyone withaninterestiswelcometoapply. have apositivedispositiontolifethiscouldbeyourDREAMjob. This isaFUNjobwithgreatearningpotential.Ifyouarewillingtoworkhardand We offer fulltrainingonsiteintheCaribbean. Dive master/instructorforeithertheCaptainand/orChefisaplus. Chef/Hostess withabasicunderstandingofcooking. licence. Requirements: CaptainwithaSkipper’s between CaptainandChefthemoresuccessfulyourcharterswillbe. The natureofthejobissuchthatbetterunderstandingandteamwork We prefercouplesthataremarriedORhavebeenlivingtogetherforatleastayear. 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Compass age, bouncingoffotherboatsandcallingthebasesforhelpeverytimeitblows. are gone,butitisgoodthat“bareboatbombs”notdraggingthroughtheanchor- a two-edgedsword.Itispaininthebacksidethatallgoodanchoringspots grass, andtherewasnoturtlegrassinFrancisBay. arrived, therewerebasicallynoyachtsintheVirginIslandstodamageturtle Rudy Thompson,DickAveryandIhavepointedoutthatinthe1950s,whenwe have establishedmooringsinFrancisBaytoallowtheturtlegrassregenerate.But chains, toregenerate.However,theycangetaheadofthemselves.Forexample, allegedly toallowtheturtlegrass,whichisuprootedbyanchoringandanchor put theminsomeareastopreservethecoralfromdamageandother puts youin60ormorefeetofwater,whereitisdifficulttoanchor. become impossibletoanchorunlessyouareoutsideoftheirarea.Inmostcasesthis the popularanchoragesinBVInowhavesomanymooringbuoysthatithas willing topayforsuchmoorings,ratherthananchorandriskdragging. which involvedthesitingofmooringsinpopularanchorages.Bareboaterswouldbe originated intheBritishVirginIslands.Itwasastrictlycommercialproposition quiet anchorage. minutes afterclearing Customs,walkonboardtheirboat mooredstern-toina A marinacouldbe built, andcharterguestscouldclimb off theplaneand,ten always perfectlyclear. into theharborand exits throughthechannelateastern end;thewaterthereis Christiansted harbour,St.Croix.InChristiansted, theseabreaksonreef,floods end, providingexcellentwatercirculation. NensBaywouldbeaminiature ing onthegapwouldfeedthrough harbor andoutthechannelateastern of GlossyHill. suggest buildingabreakwateracrossthe northsideofNensBay,thebayjusteast Glossy Hillthereisprobablyenoughrubble todosomethingreallyconstructive.I opment projectsintheregionhaveacheckered history,withtheblowingupof ing itpossibleforinternationalflightsto flydirecttoCanouan.Whileairportdevel- deck beforetheystarttogetseasickwhilestillatanchor. Moorings charterpartieshavebarelysteppedofftheirplaneandbeendelivered on dock variesfrombeingverydifficulttoimpossible.AttimesIamsurethat the Depending ontheseaconditions,landingadinghybeachoralongside the the Charlestownanchoragegoesfrombeinguncomfortabletountenable. the ever-presentswellthatcreatesbeach.Whengroundswellstartsrunning, Usually, ifyouhaveawonderfulbeachwillnotcalmanchorageasit is northeast corner,wherethereisnobeach. rock-and-rolling anchorage.Theonlyquietpartoftheharborisuptightinto the dition andsuitabilityforyourboat. well advisedtodiveandinspectanymooringyoutakeup,soasascertainitscon- cannot besaidofthemanymooringslaidatislandsfurthersouth,whereyou are able, well-established,well-securedandverywell-maintained.Unfortunatelythat moorings withintheVirginIslandshavedevelopedareputationforbeingveryreli- Island cutinSt.Vincent,ontoMustiqueandAdmiraltyBay.The“MoorSeacure” also throughouttheEasternCaribbean. other boatifyouarewillingtoseekthemout.ThisisnotonlytrueintheVirgins but still plentyofnice,secludedanchorageswhereyouwillbealoneorhaveonlyone January 1957;thelasttimeIcruisedthesewaterswasin2006.Thereare beaten track.MyfirstcruiseintheVirginIslandswasduringDecember1956and ruined theVirginIslandsforcruisingyachtsmanwhoiswillingtogetoff than tryingtoresettheanchorinablow. sionally setmooringbuoys,andthecrewswereoffenjoyingshore-sideliferather the radioofyachtsdraggingandcallingforhelp.Allwerewellsecuredtoprofes- towards PeterIslandlikeafinemist.Yetwithallthiswind,therewerenocallson gusts weresostrongthattheypickedupthesurfaceofwaterandblewitoff Island. Threetimesgustscamethroughthatlaidusovertillwewereraildown.The anchored inthatwonderfulsecludedcoveBluffBayonthesouthsideofBeef arrived withavengeance.MywifeTrichandIweresailingonfriend’sboat, January 2006,aftertwoweeksoflightairorcalmsintheBVI,ChristmasWinds and Harbors Having permanentmooringsinallthepopularanchoragesVirginIslandsis The ideaofpermanentmooringsspreadtoSt.John,USVI.ParksDepartment As acommercialpropositionitwaswinner,asisillustratedbythefactthatall The ideaofinstallingpermanentyachtmooringsthatcouldberentedforthenight Moorings, aTwo-EdgedSword A breakwateratNens Baywouldcreateacalm,all-weather harborforCanouan. If adecent-sizedgapisleftonthewestern endofthebreakwaterswellbreak- Glossy Hillisbeingblownuptoprovide filltoextendtheairportrunway,mak- Take alookatthetrulywonderfulbeachalongsoutheastpartofbay. On anothersubject,CharlestownBay(GrandBay),Canouan,hasalwaysbeen a A Roll-FreeHarbourforCanouan? Permanent mooringsslowlyspreadsouth,firsttoSt.Lucia,thentheYoung Despite theirproliferation,thewidespreadestablishmentofmooringshasnot The goodsideofmooringsisillustratedbythefactthat,insecondweek Of Moorings STREET TALK:FOODFORTHOUGHTBYDON JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25

—Continued on next page Navigating the good life Protected Harbor Nightlife Downtown Restaurant, Bar & Grille Beach Depth Up to 25 Feet at Face Dock at Face Depth Up to 25 Feet Foot Air Market 1 Minute by Open 24 Hour Security Gated Marina I Decide to Buy to meet the fact that I seemed unable Frustrated with Me and my Eskia, three-quarters of the way across Me and my Eskia, three-quarters waves getting higher… the Bequia Channel, with the kayakers in the Grenadines, and always encouraged to Grenadines, and always kayakers in the home in myself when visiting back take the plunge activities by the widespread kayaking British Columbia boat, … to finally acquire my own there, I decided might prefer traveling up and down the leeward sides leeward down the and up traveling prefer might while and reefs, visiting beaches islands, of the many of and brave some islands might cross between others kayaks can navigate sea waters. In principle, the wavy but of of condition, any type in just about the seas of for some levels are required advanced skill course and winds. situations with waves the more demanding Introducing the NEW Introducing PORT ANTONIO, PORT JAMAICA

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The Grenadine islands provide plenty of opportunity provide plenty islands The Grenadine occasionally, a boatman in the region has told me about told region has in the a boatman occasionally, on through, often paddlers coming seen the odd having visitors these chain. Clearly, tours up the island longer they out to date, as I could figure and, as far are rare on the Internet. or traces left any reports have not kayakers and challenging trips. Most for scenic, safe Channel 16 by Hans Baer nmarina.com • VHF

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Sea Kayaking Kayaking Sea T An Untapped Resource Canada and the US, as Visitors to northwestern will find sea kayak Searching the Internet, you locations such as There are activities in Caribbean Only once during the past dozen or so years have I well as to just about any major lake system in North well as to just about any major will note the thou- America and other continents, weekends and holi- sands of sea kayakers during sea kayak business- days, and the dozens of thriving and training on and along es providing boat rentals all these waterways. over the world, including enterprises and tours all the Galapagos Islands, such faraway locations as But I have not seen any- Australia and New Zealand. Grenadines in particular. thing mentioned about the Belize, South and Central America and the Bahamas. There are also some hotels and yacht charters where “ocean” or “sea” kayaking is mentioned, but usually this refers to the provision of the top-seated “ocean kayaks” referred to below. Yet, compared with the problems associated with the seasonal kayaking on the frigid waters of, say, the shores of the American and Canadian Northwest, paddling the warm and translucent waters of the Grenadines should be a sheer delight year-round. seen a group of sea kayakers here — a group of Dutch on a beach in Bequia with inflatable sea kayaks. They said they were on the way to paddle to Mustique. Also, and income from yachting. Over the last decade I have last decade Over the from yachting. and income — sea activity another boating why been wondering part of in this similarly developed — has not kayaking the world. JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 windy openseaconditions. generally suitablefornegotiatingmoredifficultand about incalmwatersandclosetoshore,butarenot for openoceanwaters.Theyarefuncraftrunning makes themverywindsensitiveandthusunsuitable bailing compositebodieswithahighfreeboardthat top seating—onesitson,notinthem.Theyhaveself- speed orstability.Toeachhisown! designs, dependingonwhetheryouwanttooptfor overnight trips.Theycomeinvariousshapesand some luggageinthebulkheadsfortouringand spray skirt.Theyalsohavetwosealableportstostore & theGrenadines! ing popularbothforlocalsandtouristsinSt.Vincent there aredevelopmentspromisingtomakeseakayak- a fewkayaksopenedatBuccamentBay.So,maybe kayak. Inaddition,thisyearatouristenterprisewith then IsawayoungVincentianwithtwo-seatersea the studentsatmedicalcollegeinSt.Vincent,and there suddenlywasasecondonebroughtinbyof always comeinthrees.AfterIacquiredmyownkayak, a goodbalanceofstabilityandspeed.Goodthings including theeventual36-percentCustomsdutybill. ing aboutUS$1,000to$1,500)formyownpleasure, spending agoodchunkofmoney(anewseakayakcost- by myself.Ijusthadtoconsidermyselfworthyof …even ifthiswouldforcemetodosomelocalexploring frompreviouspage —Continued I hadsomewhite-watercanoeingandkayaking My EarlyAttempts The so-called“oceankayaks”mentionedaboveare Sea kayakshaveacockpit,bulkheadsanduse I choseacompositeNeckyEskia,reputedtoprovide and amongthesebeautifulislands opportunities forsafeandchallengingtripsin,around Looking backtowardsSt.Vincent.Thereareendless cockpit fillingwithwater.Ihaddonesuchrollsmany the sprayskirtcomesintoitsown,preventing course wouldhavedoneanEskimoroll—that’swhere ways andIcapsized. take verylongbeforeafollowingwavepushedmeside- protective reef.Butwhenturningaround,itdidnot waves head-onafterpaddlingthroughthepassof Blue LagoonIwasthrilledtomeetmedium-sized size you.Thisiswhereskillandstrengthareneeded. push youthiswayorthat,unbalanceandevencap- unable tolookbehindeasily,thefollowingseamay Although youknowthatsomethingiscoming,being use propersailor’sjargon),itisadifferentstory. when thewavescomefrombehind(“followingseas”to can adjustyourstrokesandleanforbalance.But incoming wavesiseasier:youseewhatcomingand a kayakwithoragainstthewaves.Paddlinginto way canmakeyoudizzy. and constantlychangingshapesofwavescomingyour constantly alertand,atapoint,thechangingpatterns waters andrunningriversincanoes:youhavetobe between paddlingmynewseakayakinchoppyocean dle strokes.ButIsoonfoundthatthereisadifference Thus Ihavesomefeelingforwaves,currentsandpad- fabled NahanniRiverintheNorthwestTerritories. rivers andrapidsinAlberta,Canada,exploredthe experience fromalongtimeagowhenwecanoedwild Now, theexperiencedandwell-trainedpaddlerof On oneofmyearlyexcursionsoutsideSt.Vincent’s Also Ifoundthatthereisquiteadifferencepaddling should beacrossingfromUniontoMayreau. accessible byboatorviasomebushpaths.Mynexttrip tively safeaccesstoChathamBay,untilrecentlyonly past thevillageofAshtonshouldprovideeasyandrela- this stretch.PaddlingtotheleewardsideofUnionIsland boat, reachingreefsandlandseemsnobigproblemon be muchhigher,butifonecapsizedanddriftedwiththe ing seasweremanageable.Oftenthewavestherewould 30 minutes,andonthattripIwasluckythefollow- tles catchingabreathclosetoyourboat. take abreakat.Withluck,youmayevenhaveseatur- plenty ofpristinesceneryandmanysmallbeachesto protected calmconditions,clearturquoisewaters, around theCayspaddlingisatitsprimewithreef- a stiffwindtookaboutanhour.Ofcourse,inand ever-changing conditionsofthesurroundingseas. rather thancarelessandunprepared,regardingthe a mentalexercisetoremainobservantandfocused above experienceIpracticedthistechniquequitesuc- such asbyusingaso-calledpaddlefloat.Afterthe tions ofthetechniquesgettingbackintoyourkayak, ing boatcamebyandhelpedmegetbackintomykayak. manage togetashore.Onthisoccasion,however,afish- Island ChannelwhereIknewwouldfindfootingand ily directedmeandthefloatingboattowardsYoung quickly exitedthekayakunderwater. skilled withthisnowsoIwastednotimetryingand years agowithawhitewaterkayak,butIamnot needed allthetime.AftersometimeIfounditbecame waters, thewavesarenottoohigh,butattentionis waves following,onlytookabout15minutes.Inthese against agoodwind.Thereturn,withthewindand was aneasy25minutesinshortchoppywavesand Union Island.CrossingfromCliftontoPalmIsland in andaroundthewatersofGrenadinesout to waituntilseakayakingcatchesoninthisregion! niques canbeused,buttopracticetheseImayhave sea. Withseveralboatstravelingtogetherothertech- trying tobailitoutmaynotbesosimpleinarough an unstablecraftwiththecockpithalffullofwaterand back inmaybetheleastofyourproblems—sitting dent tomakemetryitinwavyconditions.Getting cessfully incalmwatersbutnowIneededatrueacci- A tripfromCliftontoBigSandBayonUnionIslandwas A paddlefromMayreautotheTobagoCaysagainst It waseasytofindontheInternetseveraldescrip- I waslittleconcernedbecauseafewswimstrokeseas- One ofmynextadventureswastoexplorekayaking In theSouthernGrenadines —Continued onnextpage —Continued JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27 Bequia Channel, Success! Bequia I of September, the end later, towards Months with up were nothing compared The waves building man, Mr. Charles, A few weeks later, a Vincentian such as the Bequia I noted that on longer trips, Yes folks, now I know that sea kayaking in the repeated the crossing attempt. This time I was alone. time I was attempt. This the crossing repeated to accompany boat operator engaged a small Again I so I some fuel, to go and fetch boat needed me. The rela- waters were my own. The to start off on decided paddling the after close to an hour of tively calm, but my accompa- and I saw no trace of waves grew higher again a tidal well, I noted that there was nying boat. As than drift- me towards Barbados rather current taking powerboat Venezuela. Fortunately the ing me towards because the and just in time, showed up eventually, worsened. situation definitely still worri- first attempt, but they were those on our east even- the current taking me to the some because to paddle with following tually required that I had crooked wave seas. Sure enough, one unexpectedly about three quar- got the better of me and I capsized, channel. There was no ters of the way across the the kayak and get- problem “rescuing” me, emptying conditions continued ting me back in. Although I managed to reach my somewhat on the rough side, entering Admiralty Bay destination in good time, having an easy paddle after about two hours, then towards Lower Bay. the channel in their and his 14-year-old son crossed directions and clocking two-seater kayak — in both two-seater longer kayak excellent times. I am told the not only by being may have a significant advantage, being longer, providing powered by two paddlers but, a safer ride in following seas. seas can take their toll in Channel crossing, wind and leading to dehy- terms of fluid- and electrolyte-loss, dration. One may not be aware of this problem until it is too late, since sweating is not noticeable in blowing winds and during dedicated exercise with constant need to watch waves and waters. I used a drinking bag with a hose but should have used it more often, because some leg cramps developed after the trip. Grenadines is fun, with endless opportunities for safe and challenging trips in, around and among these beautiful islands. I am looking forward to the time when I will just be one of dozens of kayakers in the region, and maybe rental business operators will contribute significantly to tourism in the area. Later that day we crossed the channel on a speedboat Our rescue boat came to assist and after some and after to assist boat came Our rescue Big and small meeting in the Tobago Cays, Big and small meeting in the where paddling is at its prime pher and videographer on board the boat never took a single shot — all she could do was hold on to the boat in terror throughout the ordeal. Clearly we were defeated, but also a good experience richer. and joined a beach party on Bequia. It turned out that all day the entire channel was in turmoil with waves and whitecaps that also gave the ferry passengers a rough time — definitely not the day for a kayak crossing. ally great fun seeing those towering waves move waves those towering fun seeing ally great I was the kayak myself and us and bounce towards down. on to up and hanging secure on board and to get we both managed struggles when crisis came home, a small Heading the kayaks. gas tank was engine stopped and the the rescue boat’s started After some bailing the engine under water. My photogra- were none the worse off. again and we I learned quickly that when paddling alone it is wise alone it is when paddling quickly that I learned Challenge The Bequia Channel to cross the early aim of mine was One obvious and calm waters after Easter Following a week of totally After 20 minutes paddling into the waves I knew we —Continued page from previous one in waters where only and navigate to be cautious rather safe shores towards sure to be pushed would be Otherwise, seeking open waters. off into than drift For is mandatory. boat with an accompanying backup the cost there would be no problem: tourist operations of kayakers backing up a group of hiring a guide-boat thus open up to most groups and would be acceptable or two-hour for trips in the one- endless opportunities the Grenadines. range throughout St. Vincent Bequia Channel between nine-mile wide I figured of Bequia. In good conditions, and the island hours. But no longer than two or three I should need are often adverse, with conditions in the channel of some three to five waves, wind, a westerly current counter-currents of equal knots and, sometimes, tidal wave patterns and white- strength, resulting in rough Coast Guard, the only caps. Checking with the SVG them was the time of the information I could get from on currents. So planning high and low tides — nothing game. a trip remained a guessing medical student, and I 2006, Tanzid Shams, a crossing the channel. We planned our first attempt at operator to accompany hired a single-engine boat and morning from the Blue us and set off early in the and felt good until we made Lagoon. Everything looked reef and suddenly found it through the opening in the grew bigger and bigger by ourselves facing waves that as high as a house. the minute and seemingly became the “Bequia Bullet” — a Not only that, we also saw the northeastern tip of landmark detached rock off right instead of the left, Bequia — move towards the meaning we were in a major and strong tidal counter- current that was carrying us toward Barbados. Clearly, this current, working against the prevailing ocean current, was responsible for the size and vigor of the waves. had to turn to starboard and run with the waves to stay in the channel. But of course that brought the immediate problem of “following seas” described above, and it took only three or four of these to unbal- ance us and make us both capsize. I had always wondered how it would feel swimming in big waves in the open ocean. Now I knew, and I must say it was actu- JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 over asteamingvolcanicvent ‘How wouldyoulikeyoureggs?’SeaCatcooksarestorativesnack roots, andSeaCatpointedoutasmall moderate climbthroughrainforest.Wepassed rain. WepassedTitouGorgeandheadedupthetrail.Thefirstpartwasasteady tle regretthatmyonlyhikingfootweararethesandalsIgototownin. We setofffromhisbaseinCastleComfortearlyandwereonthetrailat0650. the waybackrightovertopofmountain.Thatisoutmyleague! mile, hillyroad.Then,havinggottoPennvilleonthenortheastcoast,hewalkedall —asix- not merelywalkedthetrail,butfirsttotrailheadatCapuchin island, atrailIregardasreallypleasant.Whenhecamebackfoundthathad versation wehadafewdayslater.Hewasgoingtowalkroundthenorthendof what Ihadseenofotherreturnees,thoughthiswassomewhatexplainedbyacon- deal, anditisonlyanhourhalffromthetrailhead”.Thisdidnotquitejibewith zoomed offonedaytohikethelakeforumpteenthtimeandsaid,“It’snobig and saiditwasnobigdeal;theothercouplegaveuphalfway. ited Dominicatogetherandtookthehiketoboilinglake—onecouplemadeit more thanitshould.Ialsoknewtwocouplesthatusedtospeed-walk.Theyhadvis- esting trip,neitherseemedinarushtodoitagain.Thisimpressedmeprobably acting somewhatshell-shocked.Thoughbothreporteditwasonehellofaninter- they leftatthecrackofdawnandarrivedbackarounddark,coveredinmud trip. AtdifferenttimesIsentacoupleofhelperstocheckitout.Mymemoryisthat Through theValley ofDesolation Early inthemorningitwascoolandpleasant;dayfinewithoutthreat of As IwatchedSeaCatpullonsocksandhikingboots,feltforthefirsttimealit- Sea Cathadnotbeentotheboilinglakeforafewweeksandofferedtakeme. I wassomewhatencouragedbytalkingtoahikingcruiserinPortsmouth.He I decidedthisyearwasit.wantedtodohikebeforebecamesoancientcouldn’t. I begantothinkofthehikeDominica’sboilinglakeasalmostimpossible

to Dominica’s BoilingLake

ALL ASHORE… by ChrisDoyle gommier

(gum) tree, chataigner Dacryodes excelsa, trees withgiantbuttress

of the neath setsyouupfortherestofday. down thenarrow,sheerwalls.Atheadisacrashingwaterfall;showerunder- various shapelychambers.Wayabove,thesunlightfiltersthroughtreesand water inthebottom.Youswimbackacoupleofhundredyardsasitwindsitselfinto Gorge’s coldwaterattheendofhikeisperfect.TitouGorgeaslotcanyonwith lest Ibecametooenervatedanddehydratedtomove.OntheotherhandTitou them againtillnearthetop.However,Idarednotstayinmorethanafewminutes The waterwaspipinghotandcuredmyachingcalfmusclesinstantly.Ididnot feel pace. Bestsavethedawdlingforreturn. deal, butitisjustlongenoughthatworthmakinganefforttokeepasteady of theCaribbean’sbest;Ilookforwardtogoingagain,Nowadaysitreallyisnobig cantly easierandlessmuddy.Itisawonderfulhike,variedfullofinterest,one by midday.)Thetrailhasbeenmuchimprovedsinceearlierdays,makingitsignifi- hours, andthatwasinperfectconditionswithnorain.(WewerebackatTitouGorge the topsometimeinfuture. in hospital.Wealsothoughtaboutthestuntteamthatplannedtotightroperightover he managedtogetonalittleledgetheside.Hewasbadlyburntandspentmonths meant, butdidnothavetoexperienceit—theForestryDivisionhascutridge terrifying narrowpathwithaprecipiceonbothsides.Icouldseeexactlywhatshe Althea, oneofthepeoplewhohadinvestigatedthistripforme,describingasa to crossanarrowridgebetweenonemountainandthenext.Ivividlyremember trees gotshorterandmorestuntedasweapproachedthetop.Atonepointhad before headinguphill,moresteeplythistime,ontheothersideofvalley.The through theforesttoTroisPitonsRiver.Herewestoppedforagrapefruitbreak I expectedtogo.However,wesoonreachedaridgeandhaddescendquitesteeply to caulkthedugoutcanoes. kind usedtobuildpirogues.Someofthewhitegumwasoozingout;thisis

I tooktimeonthewaybacktobatheinoneofnaturalhotpoolsriver. Sea Catcouldhavegottenhereinanhourandhalf,butItooktwoquarter Looking atthemapyoucouldseeboilinglakeisupinmountains,souphill CHRIS DOYLE CHRIS and slipperyheslidbackdowncrashedpartlyinthelakebefore had fallenover.Whenclimbingbackup,theropebecamesowet had loweredhimselfdownonaropetotryandgetcamerathat enough seethebubblingwater.Wethoughtaboutguidewho watched thepoolandenjoyedmomentswhensteamcleared fast ofbread,stewedsaltfishandfriedplantain.Weateaswe platform attheedgeoflake.SeaCathadbroughtalongabreak- ing fromtheboilinglakenowuphilltonortheast. eggs; theytasteddelicious.Asweatethemsawthesteamris- went upanotchwhenSeaCatproducedtwoperfectlysoft-boiled Scenery thatlookslikeDante’sInfernoisnotmyfavorite,butit over ahotriver,whichhasplentyofbathingpoolslowerdown. interest, butonlytakessomeminutestowalkthrough.Youcross In reality,theValleyofDesolationisahighpointtripfor hot redmud,andfumarolesbelchingcopioushydrogensulfide. I hadimaginedwewouldhavetohikeformilesthoughsteaming time. Ithinkoneofmyhesitationsaboutthishikehadbeenthat whizzed awayofftocooksomeeggsinaboilingvent;Itookmy a scrambleaswedroppedintotheValleyofDesolation.SeaCat great mountainviews,andthenitgotsteep,slipperybecame still lookwaybackandseewherewehadcomefrom. cool. Andalthoughtheyobscuredtheviewtoeast,wecould in anotherwaywewerelucky;themistycloudskeepingus mally seetheboilinglakefarbelow.Todaywecouldn’tit,but sends newsofearthquakestoTrinidad.Fromhereyoucannor- mountain views.Thispointalsohousestheequipmentthat an openareahasbeenmadesoyoucanenjoythespectacular old ridgewhichwasleftasawallonthesouthside. down, makingitwideandsafe,butyoucanstillseepartofthe It isasteadyhiketogetthere.Finallyweemergedonnatural We nowstarteddownhillagain,atfirstonaneasytrail,with From hereitisnottoofartothehighestpointoftrail,where www.caribbeancompass.com CARRIACOU REALESTATE Tel: (473)4438182Fax:8290 Property Management on Carriacou e-mail: [email protected] or contactCarolyn Alexanderat For fulldetailsseeourwebsite: We alsohandleVilla Rentals& Land andhousesforsale www.islandvillas.com Down IslandLtd JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29 and about the same size. I fought real thing, fishing harbour where the fishermen still throw their tipico . To the There is room for 104 boats to slip into the Dominican Republic’s There is room for 104 boats nautical alternative reality Compass What will be well used at Ocean World, I believe, are the 200 dry-storage racks tak- What will be well used at Ocean World, I believe, are the bar shaded by sea grape Just outside Ocean World I stopped for a beer in a little The sea lions were fun and novel; I don’t get to see many of those in these waters. The sea lions were fun and novel; I don’t get to see many beach after walking It was time for a break so I sprawled out on the artificial Are we domesticating a I don’t know how you feel about captive dolphin facilities. to justify having tigers caged I gave the tigers a miss. There was no way I could find covering 34 acres, Ocean Situated between Florida and Puerto Rico with 104 slips out the answer to this But what happens on the water in bad weather? I found nets and row out at first light. it is safe to go alongside. ing boats up to 35 feet, and the refuelling facility… when gazed across the perfect white trees and watched the tourist coaches leaving. Then I and thought that perhaps it sand beach and sparkling waves breaking over the reef the NATURAL WORLD, which wasn’t entirely fair to judge Ocean World by my world, all those tourists and mega- we don’t all have equal access to. And did I really want yachts in my world? down the urge to do an underwater moony because it was too early in the day to get moony because it was too early in the day to down the urge to do an underwater kicked out. and having their bellies tick- And the audience watching the sharks being hand-fed led was a hoot. in the world (the Real World). through the acres of the largest captive dolphin facility seems to be a moot point: species or enslaving it? Whether we should be doing either the face of a severely impaired it is being done. I have to admit that when watching when I read about armed child light up when stroking a captive, I feel different from dolphins have a better deal dolphins escaping after Katrina. At least Ocean World’s Coast Trident submarine base than those guarding the Hood Canal, home of the West weapons) in 40°F water. (which is believed to contain a large stockpile of nuclear I had really come to see: the somewhere like Ocean World. Instead, I visited what the very elegant, cream-and- brand new marina. The best place to view it from is From way up there I could chrome cocktail lounge on the fourth floor of the casino. the natural deepwater chan- see a nasty little swell rounding the breakwater from well away from the con- nel. The moored vessels were all on long lines and strung What were the condi- crete pontoons. The ocean was a glistening, gentle turquoise. tions like when there was a sea running, I wondered? the ability to pump fuel at 60 World can accommodate yachts up to 200 feet. With The entrance is a well gallons a minute, this should be a Real World-class marina. depth. On shore there marked, deep channel and inside there is a 12-foot controlling and fishing shop, taxis and are smart conference facilities, a chandlery, a gym, a dive There is also a private car hire. A supermarket and boutiques are in the pipeline. 15 minutes away. helicopter pad on site and the nearest golf course is just there. They go back to the question by asking the captains of the vessels already I wrote about in the April Real World, up the coast to Luperon, the hurricane hole issue of I swam round and round. Sometimes in the cruising world it feels as though we are in the cruising world it feels as though we I swam round and round. Sometimes this was the living in a goldfish bowl but

JULIA BARTLETT Dolly’s Answer SPECIAL WORD: LOBSTER ALL ASHORE... ALL by Julia Bartlett JULIA IN JULIA Bob Goodchild Accredited Marine Surveyor

RYA (Commercial) Ocean Yachtmaster Society of Accredited Marine Surveyors Accredited Marine Society of Tel: Grenada (+1 473) 407 4388

[email protected] Marine Surveyors, Grenada Accreditation - American Boat and Yacht Council Yacht and American Boat Accreditation - Somewhere in the twilight zone between the REAL WORLD and the VIRTUAL Somewhere in the twilight zone between the REAL find for free, but it is In Ocean World I paid for some of the things that I normally Republic, the tourist To enter Ocean World, a marina resort in the Dominican I’m beginning to lose track here so let’s recap. let’s recap. track here so to lose I’m beginning the crucial-can’t- where I order That’s the place WORLD. the REAL First, there’s this one exists, it difficult to believe that VIRTUAL WORLD. I find Then there’s the PURCHASE – INSURANCE - DAMAGE Marine Survey throughout the Caribbean

OCEAN WORLD OCEAN Flyingfish Ventures Ltd WORLD there is OCEAN WORLD. tangible stuff with a different twist. was walking, so it was remi- coaches drive through a symbolic curtain of water; I dinghy. As I was already wet niscent of getting caught in a tropical downpour in the — guaranteed no jel- I decided to go snorkelling on the artificial reef in an aquarium me through the glass as lyfish. I stopped to wave at the people sitting and watching move-without-them boat parts and they take six weeks to arrive with the hurricane take six weeks to arrive with boat parts and they move-without-them parts. This manufacturer ships the wrong down my neck and the season breathing forever. eventually die, as in gone I can get sick and will is the world where 54, brand new, amount and get a Swan I can spend a reasonable but it does. Here for some- paid REAL WORLD MONEY the box. The fact that I have straight out of However, leaves me a tad perplexed. exists on a computer screen thing that only issued with, and the perky tits I wasn’t get new body bits, including here I can also I need never die. As a day-tripper, Julia found that the best place to view the marina was from the As a day-tripper, Julia found that the best place to view elegant cocktail lounge on the fourth floor of the casino JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 Pharmacy itemsareamazinglycheap. which hasgivenanewviewoflifetoworld-wearyeyes. Much hasbeenwrittenaboutthelasertreatment made feesunaffordableforthosewithoutinsurance. in mycountry(Canada),wheredentalplanshave Dentists, tooareexcellentandtheirfeefarlowerthan modest, attentionrapidandcarecompassionate. dures. Thisisinprivateclinicsbutthecostvery medical careandverythoroughdiagnosticproce- choose tohavesurgeryhere,attractedbytheexpert things aboutVenezuela. fair amountoftime,Iwouldliketolistsomegood But inloyaltytoacountrywhereIhavenowspent cal thesis.(Theygivescholarshipsto the wherefore”.Maybesomedayitwillbeasociologi- hearsay andinsiderinformationabout“thewhy up fromdailynewspapersandTV,norrepeatthe learn abitaboutthesocietyofpresent-dayVenezuela. that getsusthroughthedayandtryingonceagainto quick andstimulatingrapportwithnew-foundfriends ing toresurrectmyrustySpanish,establishingthe sized rentalinNewYork.Justcallme“baggagemule”! would incurmoreexcessbaggagecoststhanmyfanta- the heftyamountofluggagewecarriedtoDasBoot “fly-in wife”,Iaccompaniedmyskipper,mainlybecause a citydweller,urbandenizen,landlubber…oratleast back toPLC.AlthoughIhaddeclaredmyintentionbe (P/C/TMO) whereweleft also hadgreatfaithinthesecurityofboatyard crew whoresurrectedtheboatfromabubbledfateand Hugh, hadbeenimpressedbytheworkmanshipof PLC duringthe2006hurricaneseason.Myhusband, point ofourcircumnavigationandleft status duetothesuddendropinoilprices. society thathadbeenconfusedbydrasticchangesin dishes andtriedhardto“psychout”thementalityofa worked onmySpanish,learnedtocookafewlocal a jobteachingEnglishinsmalllanguageschool.I tas when ourboatdevelopedseriousosmosis.As (PLC), Venezuela,withoutpreviousintention,in1998 would discouragethefaintofheart. through, surviveorevenprosperinconditionsthat tentatively, “Whatisitlike?” sionate questfor leader tocreateanot-so-quietrevolutioninhispas- accounts”), nottomentiontheeffortsofapolitical A greatmanycruisers,particularlyAmericans, Medical/Dental CareandMedications I willnotgointodetailabouttheinformationpick Of courseIenteredgamelyintothesocialmilieu,try- After ninemonthsinCanada,onceagainwecame M Eight yearslaterwereturnedtotherealstarting We firstsetuptemporaryabodeinPuertoLaCruz I guessthat,allovertheworld,peoplemuddle Many cruisersareafraidtocomehere.Othersask , welivedhereforeightmonthsthenandIevengot Twelve GoodThings by HeatherBacon streets andthelocalmurders(all“settlingof the shortagesandless-than-serene uch hasbeensaidabouttherobberiesand about Venezuela socialismo criollo Argonauta I . anciandos up onthehard. Argonauta I velaris- now). in service bothfromex-patsandlocalsemployedthere. well tenyearsago,andthistimewehavehadexcellent Marino Oriente:theyhandledourosmosisproblem have hadverysatisfactoryrelationswith“__entro” We areinthelandofcruisercamaraderie. ation. Cruisersarealsoquicktohelpoutifnecessary. ing) andtiedupwithexpertiseinaMed-mooringsitu- and crew,guidedtoaspot(usuallyofourownchoos- come intoBahiaRedondawehavebeenmetbyPotter that particularfour-letterword.Buteachtimewehave thousand” soundedexpensive! amount ofdirtyclothing,notperload,and“sixteen he thoughtthepricequotedhadbeenforALLhisvast ferent geographicalpersuasioncomplainingbecause Unfortunately oneday,Ioverheardacruiserofdif- pressed, smellinglovely,andsometimesevenmended. Bolivars aload:approximately$2.50.Itcomesback load. EstrellitaatBahiaRedondacharges8,000 Compass laundry articleintheDecember2005issueof Caribbean. Perhapssomereadersremembermyboat Bahia Redondaisdefinitelythebestbargainin (not during when chaosreigns,Ihiemetothepool.Onagoodday nist. Whenboatchoresbecometoooverwhelming, weeks afterward.WhatcanIsay? With theadviceoftrustedcontactshehasmanagedto Networking is General ExpertiseofWell-ChosenTechnicians It wasPMO,thenCMOnowTMO.Neverthelesswe TMO ExpertiseandSecurity I willneverovercomemydockphobia.seizeupat at BahiaRedonda Dock Staff I believeChrisDoylesaiditfirst:the Laundry The perceptivemaysuspectthatIamaclosethedo- Pool atBahiaRedonda It wassnowinginOttawaonEasterandforafew Climate . Tahititookthecakeat$75foramodest Semana Santa so important. Hughspecializesinit. ) Ihaveitalltomyself! lavanderia at exchange ratewasabout3,O00BolivarstotheUSdollar. future willbebright. cruising groundoffers,wesincerelyhopethatthe cess. Fortheirsakeandforthevastpotentialthis who workhardandarestilloptimisticaboutsuc- market. Wehavegottoknowambitiouslocalpeople ments, resortsandbusinessesservingthecruiser met ex-patswithheavyinvestmentsincondoapart- change prevail.Butinourshorttimeherewehave the varietyofsceneryandatmosphere. piranha. Itisbeautifulcountry,worthexploringtosee baby jabirus(storks)intheirnest;theanacondaand Shetland ponyandtheworld'slargestlivingrodent; little capybara,acrossbetweenguineapigand animals andbirdswehadneverheardofbefore:the of ourmostmemorablenatureexcursions.Wesaw car arespectacular. and friendlypeople.Theviewsfromthetopofcable great restaurants,charming heat ofthecoast.Thetowniscleanandattractivewith is adelighttovisit.Itlovelybecoolagainafterthe ers, thisuniversitytownhighintheAndesmountains $80. Thatincludedachateaubriand! the storewith30dinnersforfouratacostofabout enthusiastic Leo)andthehonestyofcashierIleft on meat!”Butwiththeassistanceofmytaxidriver(the “That can’tcostsolittle—maybeIamspending$600 Costco inCanadafor$90. and gristle,itcostabout$20.Isometimesbuyoneat we willbefouronournextpassage.Trimmedofallfat cut toyourspecifications.Ichosequiteaheftyoneas beef. Youmustpurchasetheentirepiecebutthenitis ing toyourdesires.Yachtiesrecommend major portionoftheanimalchosenandcutitaccord- customer mightbeofferedabeer.Theybringoutthe times offeredacoffee.Itisrumouredthatlong-term invited tositdowninachairatthecounter,some- for sugar,flour,eggsandotherbasics. elaborate.) Whenyouseechicken,stockpile.Ditto shortages. (IamnotapoliticalanimalsoIwill trating sincetherehavebeenaseriesofimposed delicious andIhavefaiththatthewaterispure. you arephilosophicallyopposed.)Itisrefreshingand water andsugar.(Youcancuttheamountofsugarif 2,000 Bolivarsyougetafreshdrinkofblendedfruit, taloupe, guava,banana( selection offruits:strawberries,watermelon,can- I takebackwhenladenwithpurchases.) 1,000 Bolivars,comparedto10,000forthetaxiwhich nal taxithatIstillbelieveissafe.(Anditcostsonly break andIgodowntownby gave usanothertenyearsofshoretrips! minuscule leak,patcheditupatreasonablepriceand plus nevertheless.ButwonderfulLindafoundthe bargain herecomparedtoothercountries,but$1,000- Hugh hadbeenabouttobuyanotherCaribedinghy,a state. Linda,theDinghyDoctor,isalsofantastic. cles onelectricalequipmentthatwethoughtincritical Angel, wholivesuptohisname.Heperformedmira- find onlyskilledexpertstoworkonourboat.Icite lcrnc,Cadey Rigging Chandlery, Electronics, www.midatlanticyachtservices.com At timeofwritingthe“informal”( What willVenezuela’sfuturehold?Windsof Our visittothis Los Llanos A perennialinlandgetawayfavouriteamongcruis- Merida At onepointIgotreallyconfusedaboutmyzeros: I enjoyvisitinga“designerbutchershop”wheream Grocery shoppingcanbetime-consumingandfrus- Designer ButcherShops Kiosks onthestreethavearowofblendersand Batidos Woman dothnotlivebyboatworkalone.Ilovea Por Puestos PT-9900-144 HORTA /FAIAL YACHT SERVICES EU-VAT (15%) Importation Bunkered Fuel(+10,000lt) for Trans-Atlantic Yachts FAX +351292391656 TEL +351292391616 [email protected] MID ATLANTIC Services &Repairs Services Providing allvital AZORES ranchero cambur area ofVenezuelawasone posadas por puesto, in Venezuela).For mercado negro (guest houses) lomito the commu- : filetof ) JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31 ARBOUR 284 495-5685 H Fax: 284 495-5706 ACHT Y VHF Ch: 16 16ft channel • 24 hour security Shower facilities • • Telephone hook-up Full Service Marina Facility Marina Facility Full Service during hurricane season. • Web: www.vgmarina.biz 120 concrete slip berths LEAVE YOUR BOAT LEAVE Fuel dock and bunkering WE OFFER: ORDA • • Free satellite TV at each slip • G (single phase and three phase) Tel: 599-5442309 Fax: 599-5443378 located within convenient walking distance. IN OUR CARE THIS SUMMER IN OUR Electricity: 220V/ 50amp; 110V/300amps 284 495-5318 • Pick-up and drop-off from major supermarkets • Tel: 284 495-5500 laundry facilities, and an office of the BVI Tourist Board all in laundry facilities, and an office of the BVI Tourist Board IRGIN fax facilities, free wireless internet access, fuel, water and ice, fax facilities, free wireless internet access, fuel, water and offering insurance approved hurricane pits to secure your vessel offering insurance approved Join us this summer and continue to enjoy the hospitality. Wireless internet, banks and laundry within the complex Our facility located in the heart of beautiful Virgin Gorda comprises Our facility located in the heart a pristine and relaxing environment. BVI Customs and immigration chandlery, restaurant, bakery, clothing store, dive shop, phone and chandlery, restaurant, bakery, clothing store, dive shop, P.O. Box 4540, Airport Road, Sint Maarten, N.A., Caribbean Onsite amenities and services include a bank/ATM, a supermarket, Onsite amenities and services V

• a 111-slip marina and a boatyard with 12 acres of dry storage space a 111-slip marina and a boatyard We monitor VHF channels 16 & 79A (alpha – American system) Over and over again our guests refer to our marina as their “Home”!

Visit our website: www.sbmarina.biz E-mail: [email protected] IT’S MUCH MORE THAN A MARINA: IT’S HOME!

CHRIS DOYLE

Institution

a Bequia a Bequia

But, Brother King figured, if you can locate the eggs, collect the baby turtles, and But, Brother King figured, if you can locate the eggs, is not new. I first came This strategy for supporting turtle and tortoise populations I saw a turtle-rearing station, much like the one Brother King has in Bequia, when Starting up was not easy. Brother King had to start with his own resources until Rearing turtles is not easy either. You have to deal with fungal infections, and Apart from helping with the turtle population, the Old Hegg Sanctuary has had a The second way is perhaps more unexpected, but the Old Hegg Turtle Sanctuary If you asked a visitor about 30 years ago what they associated with Bequia, it 30 years ago what they associated with Bequia, If you asked a visitor about Old Hegg Turtle Sanctuary, founded and looked This is the doing of the non-profit rate for hatchling turtles is exceedingly low. It has He also knew that the survival Brother King’s ‘raise and release’ program has raised public awareness — as well Brother King’s ‘raise and release’ program has raised as hundreds of sea turtles then look after them till they are about two years old, they will have passed their then look after them till they are about two years old, enough to reproduce. most vulnerable stage and be more likely to live long so effective at eating the eggs across it in the Galapagos where introduced rats are be approaching extinction if and the young of giant tortoises that all species would Research Station. They visit it were not for the work of the scientists at the Darwin till they are about two the islands, bring back the eggs and keep the baby tortoises to the island they were years old and “rat proof”, at which point they are returned taken from. I was in Los Roques in Venezuela about 15 years ago. They also apparently do the same thing in Cuba. Brother King told me that in Cuba they have been keeping records and know now that the young hatched this way do return and lay eggs. he began to have something to show. Then he managed to get at least a little help from various well-wishers, including two checks from the Government of St. Vincent & the Grenadines. And it has gone on this way: Brother dedicates himself to the project and has somehow managed to keep it going with what help he can get. because of the close quarters they tend to chew on each other, causing wounds. While there is some information out there, turtle-raisers are a pretty rare bunch, so we are far from being able to buy a “Turtles for Dummies” book; a lot is done by intu- ition and luck. And Brother King’s guesses and luck have been good; he has released many hundreds of turtles, and when the present bunch leave it will have been more than a thousand of different kinds — a significant contribution the well-being of an endangered group. big effect in two other ways. It has been a wonderful educational opportunity for all those in Bequia, but particularly the kids, to come learn about turtles and to see them at close quarters and to appreciate what beautiful creatures they are. is probably now Bequia’s most famous visitor attraction. It is, after all, the only one of its kind in the Eastern Caribbean. Its location at the end of the road makes it a good fare for the taxi drivers, and they know that if nothing else, a visitor is likely to take a cab to see the turtles. It is also a great inducement to get people to take a ride: “You haven’t yet seen our wonderful turtle sanctuary?” It is a hard invitation to refuse. No wonder so many visitors now think of Bequia as the “Turtle Island”. would probably have had to do with boats and seafaring. I am sure over the years would probably have had to the to many visitors — ranging from model boats, to Bequia has meant many things jump up at the Frangi. I suspect if you asked Easter Regatta, to the Thursday-night of them would reply “turtles”. more recent visitors, many It is amazing that one man’s idea should have such after by Orton “Brother” King. ways. Brother King, a retired fisherman, decided to give a great impact in so many and in doing so, he kept himself close to the sea and back something to the world, of his life. Brother King knew turtles were endangered the creatures that were much the Caribbean are on the lists of endangered species). (all species of sea turtle in about five percent of eggs reach maturity as turtles. often been estimated that only I was once on a beach in the Galapagos Islands when I have seen this for myself; the cluster of hatchling turtles emerged and headed for the sand erupted and a big with their timing; they emerged in daylight instead sea. There was something wrong that none of them survived — wheeling frigate birds of at night. I would estimate started swimming. The birds swooped down and grabbed them as soon as they were running up and down would have taken them right off the beach, but tourists spectacle, but a futile chasing the birds to try and save the baby turtles; an amusing endeavor in this case.

Turtle Sanctuary – – Sanctuary Turtle The Old Hegg Old Hegg The DECK VIEW FROM TI KANOT BY CHRIS DOYLE BY CHRIS KANOT FROM TI VIEW DECK JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 with thepriceofUS$350,becausewhenIchecked well withchafepointsonthecorners.Thecrunchcame although itfit,didn’treallysupportthecanistervery were we?Someoftheweldingwasn’tthatgoodand over thetoptotakeapadlockandwewereallfixed—or back together.Theyfabricatedanewsectiontofasten to thenewsizeandtookitaweldingshopbeput adapted tofitthebill.Ididallmeasuringandcutit canister butwithafewcutsandjoinsitcouldeasilybe aft holderwithabrokenfastening.Itwastoobigforour the boatyardonedayIfoundadiscardedstainlesslifer- and toosmallforourstowagechocks.Browsingaround one faileditstest,butthenewwasmorecompact limited funds.Wehadrenewedourliferaftaftertheold normally use. conscious cruisers,but“cheap”isnotawordIwould money. Welookforthebestbuysordealsasbudget- resources weneedtobecarefulhowspendour income andinordertomakethebestuseofour turned outtohavetheirownpricepay. chases andprojectswhichIhadregardedas“cheap” reminded ofherwisdomrecentlywhenseveralpur- date andcalledsuchpurchases“cheap-dear”.Iwas would generallyresultinapricetobepaidatlater maintained thatbuyinganything“onthecheap” MRS. CHEAP-DEAR We wereinTrinidadlastyearwithalongrefitlistand Like manycruisersweliveonafairlymodest Some yearsagoinEnglandwehadafriendwho you do?Shippingitbackisveryexpensiveandwe had drippeddownontotheburnerplate!Whatcan becue grillwascoveredinburntmeatjuiceswhich age justbeforeleavingtheUSVItofind“new”bar- real rubcamewhenitarrived.Weopenedthepack- big tocarry,sohadbeshippedatacostof$38.The us. Theonlyproblemwasthatthebarbecuetoo ourselves. Theotheritemsourfriendsobtainedfor above thepricewehadseen,sodecidedtogetthat of asurprisewhenthePortSupplypricewasstill$60 the WestMarinepriceofUS$277.Itwasnottoomuch could sourcethedavitwinchatUS$178comparedto We hadalreadycheckedtheinternetandfoundwe cue andanelectricdavitwinchtohoistourdinghy. and couldgetsomethingsalittlecheaper! time asus.BestofalltheyhadaPortSupplyaccount States andthenwouldbeintheUSVIaboutsame anything wewantedastheywerereturningtothe who, whentheyheardourplans,volunteeredtoget shipped in.Wemetupwithsomegoodcruisingfriends might beagoodplacetogetsomeofourboatparts island chaintowardstheUSVIandthinkingthat you indifferentways.Wewereheadingnorthupthe such things,buttheproblemisthattheysneakupon US$275! Definitelyacheap-dearproject. Budget Marinecataloguethepropercradlewaslistedat We gavethemourlist,whichincludedanewbarbe- You wouldthinkthatoncebittenwecouldavoid THIS CRUISINGLIFE would have the brand-nameunit ultimately costmorethan re-sized liferaftholder Left: Ourscavengedand covered inburntmeatjuices! Right: Friendsshippedusa by GlynJohnson costs —atBudgetMarine We foundwecouldhave bought oneforthesame ‘new’ barbecuefromthe price —minusshipping States, whicharrived a chanceifyouremembermyfriend,Mrs.Cheap-Dear. for justacoupleofdollarsanhour. you costoutyourtimemayfindareworking you areabletodoeverythingyourself.Eventhen,if easily costmuchmorethanabrand-newboat,unless boat, whereeveryjobisabespokecustomone,can conditions foundonmostboats.Refurbishinganold on awholenewprospectinthecrampedandconfined the highlyefficientproductionline.Simplejobstake refurbishment onceyouhaveworkdoneawayfrom new modelsisthedisproportionatecostofrepairsand hand boatsgenerallycostalotlessthanequivalent project ofallisthat“cheap”boat.Thereasonsecond- mistakes havebeensmallones.Themostdangerous still liketogetone. adding ittothelistofcheap-dearbuys,exceptIwould longer available,sointhiscaseweweresavedfrom arrive shortly.Eventuallytheydecideditwasno was back-orderedwiththemanufactureranddueto to headbackdowntheislandchain.Theytoldmeit hadn’t receiveditandhadhopedtoleaveSt.Maarten There wasworsetocome,asfourweekslaterwestill mailed tosayitwouldbeUS$150postandpacking. me shippingdetailsatthetime.Theyeventuallye- the companyandorderedone,buttheycouldn’tgive guess thatwasanotherfinancialdisaster.Itelephoned Cheap-Dear buys. expected ittobe.DefinitelyanotheroneofMrs. plain orreturnitifwediscoveredwasn’thow saved theshippingcostandhadsomewheretocom- Port SupplypriceatBudgetMarineinSt.Maarten, could haveboughtthebarbecueforsameas bad; itwasn’ttheirfault. didn’t tellourfriends,aswewantthemtofeel were leavingforSt.Maartenthatdayinanycase.We Will weeverlearn?Probablynot,butyoumightstillhave We havebeenfortunatethatmostofourcheap-dear What abouttheelectricdavitwinch?Well,youcan With thewonderfulgiftofhindsight,werealized JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33 into the Alacazam bathing platform and Alacazam’s ?” Don’t people say the daftest things at times? . Mary was steering a course to clear the headland. On my return to the cockpit, Mary . Mary was steering a course set off again at a fair clip, giving me an unwelcome opportunity to relive the whole set off again at a fair clip, giving me an unwelcome there to be there. But we manage the risks by avoiding them where we can and mitigating their avoiding them where we can we manage the risks by to be there. But Alacazam Alacazam have boarding ladder folds up against the port quarter rail and is lashed securely there when not in use. boarding ladder folds up against the port quarter rail and

by Dick McClary Sailors are risk-takers by nature. We all know the sea doesn’t take prisoners. It’s a dodgy place to be and, prisoners. It’s a dodgy place know the sea doesn’t take by nature. We all Sailors are risk-takers efficiency, so the load doesn’t have a lot going for it in terms of hydrodynamic These days the McClary form a playful mermaid who dragged my shorts to my ankles My spirits were lifted briefly by the unseen activity of purpose depressed me still further. “Oh no; please Remembering that Mary had gone below for an undisclosed “Mary,” I called. Nothing. “MARY!” at the chart table. “Yes dear?” My concerns were unfounded — she was “I’m in a spot of bother.” “Where are you?” “Over the ******* transom!” “What are you doing Fortified by such sound advice, I continued to do so. Mary shouted, “Hang on!” and disappeared below again. At this point the naked and very shaken McClary arrived safe- I barely had the strength to climb the ladder, but eventually safely at the Castaways Hotel anchorage. We got The rest of the trip passed without incident and we arrived “******* drowning! Bring the boat up into the wind and stop her!” “******* drowning! Bring the boat up into the wind and change extended my arms by another metre or so and low- Centripetal acceleration during the ensuing rapid course Alacazam’s We, Mary and I that is, had just left the anchorage in Prince Rupert Bay, Dominica, and were heading for an just left the anchorage in Prince Rupert Bay, Dominica, We, Mary and I that is, had at what I did next. I cringe with embarrassment rather I commenced the process. Standing on I got into the dinghy — or OVERBOARD after all, we don’t after all, we don’t the other and put one foot in it. rail with one hand, I pulled the dinghy up close with hanging on to the quarter painter extended to its full five- I attempted to put the other foot in. Predictably, the Letting go of the quarter rail, The dinghy flipped, as did I, and six knots — which takes about a second and a half. metre length at a speed over to the painter — a reflex action astern semi-submersed, but still hanging on grimly I found myself being towed which probably saved my life. go would have provided welcome relief until I drowned, on my arms was considerable, and it was hurting. Letting dinghy and in the one-metre chop, would have been a fair- which, after an immediate beating-up by the pursuing ly prompt event. apparently unimpressed, having swum on. I liked and beyond. Depressingly, this came to nothing: the mermaid, those shorts; we’d been through a lot together. to improve my day. don’t flush,” I thought, reasoning that this would do little through the rungs of the boarding ladder, and had a trolling A fishing-rod holder is also clamped to this quarter rail The lure was secured in a plastic tube and the rod secured rod in it rigged ready to go when we got further offshore. Mary from quickly releasing the boarding ladder. My bel- to the boat by a lanyard, all of which conspired to prevent a bit garbled, and didn’t have the desired effect. lowed instructions as to how to sort this out were probably somewhat apprehensive as to the probability of a happy nightmare. I was now pretty exhausted and was becoming pair of scissors, which had me wondering if she’d remem- ending. Mary reappeared in the cockpit armed with a didn’t cut me adrift though, but pointed bered a beneficial clause in some insurance policy. She the fishing line with the scissors, heaved the rod into the wind again to my considerable relief. She then attacked avoided as it arrived with a crash alongside my head. I cockpit and released the boarding ladder, which I deftly equipment, but it didn’t seem appropriate to say any- was a bit miffed at the callous disregard shown to my fishing thing at the time. loss of my shorts, which I had to put down to fluid mechan- ly in the cockpit. There was some discussion as to the me about the mermaid. After administering various restora- ics and drag coefficients, as I didn’t think she’d believe was temporary, Mary gave me a bit of a telling off, empha- tive potions and convincing herself that my ashen pallor stupidity, of which there were several, I found difficult sised by a deal of finger wagging. All references to mindless to refute. The restaurant was closed. Oh well…. the dinghy the right way up — the seat was still there. ered my sagging morale by a similar amount, but it was nice when we stopped. Now all I had to do was get back aboard. ered my sagging morale by a similar amount, but it was nice effect where we can’t. Or so we should. But, now and again, some of us do something inexcusably stupid and if we should. But, now and again, some of us do something effect where we can’t. Or so with it. Like I did. we’re really lucky, get away for Martinique the following ten nautical miles south. From there we planned to depart overnight anchorage some on the cards, we were towing passage, and dinner ashore at the Castaways Hotel was day. As it was such a short to the bracket on the star- Oars had been stowed below and the outboard clamped the inflatable dinghy astern. both of which are done at the the single-reefed main and the hanked-on staysail, board-quarter rail. I had hoisted mast on our yacht, to remove the fibreglass seat and went below, after pointing out that I had forgotten handed over the helm to me as we were already broad-reach- my next task would be to unfurl the yankee, but from the Avon dinghy. Normally do something about the dinghy brisk northeasterly trades, I thought I’d better first ing at over six knots in the painter and got the dinghy up to lose. After setting the Autohelm, I hauled in on the seat, which I didn’t want to no way I could reach the seat. the transom, but there was JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 01646 1602 1515 1423 20 1325 19 (new) 1223 18 1119 17 1016 16 0916 15 0822 14 0731 13 0643 12 0556 11 0508 10 0420 9 0329 8 0235 7 0140 (full) 6 0045 5 0000 4 3 2 TIME 1 DATE June 2007 Call RonCooper(727)367-5004•www.coopermarine.com Fair tides! after itsrising,thetiderunswestward.Timesgivenarelocal. setting tojustafteritsnadir,thetiderunseastward;andfromnadirsoon reaches itszenith(seeTIMEbelow)andthenrunswestward.Fromjustafterthemoon’s the eastsoonaftermoonrise,continuestorununtilaboutanhourmoon passage (orzenith)ofthemoonforthisandnextmonth,willhelpyoucalculatetides. Street’s GuidesandcompilerofImray-Iolairecharts,whichshowsthetimemeridian passage fasterandmorecomfortable.Thetablebelow,courtesyDonStreet,authorof For moreinformation,see“TidesandCurrents”onthebackofallImrayIolairecharts. Note: themaximumtideis3or4daysafternewandfullmoons. Water, Donexplains,generallytriestoruntowardthemoon.Thetidestartsrunning Crossing thechannelsbetweenCaribbeanislandswithafavorabletidewillmakeyour MERIDIAN PASSAGE • 63x24PowerCatUSCGStabilitytestfor149PAX • FastdeliveryTwinDiesel-BasePrice$299,000

VIAL O MEIT DELIVERY IMMEDIATE FOR AVAILABLE All newOffshore53’catamaranTwindiesel, OF THEMOON 49 passengers,Baseprice$199,000 • Availableassingleordoubledeck CATAMARANS JUNE &JULY 0707 0617 0528 0441 9 0354 8 0306 7 0216 6 0124 5 0029 4 3 2 (full) TIME 1 0000 DATE 2333 July 2007 2238 2145 30 2055 29 2009 28 1926 27 1846 26 1806 25 1727 24 23 22 21 NEW SEATING FOR90PASSENGERS NEW 63’SAILCAT 10100 (full) 0008 0000 2314 31 2218 30 2122 29 2027 28 1936 27 1848 26 1804 25 1722 24 1641 23 1602 22 1521 21 1439 20 1353 19 1303 18 (new) 1209 17 1109 16 1007 15 0904 14 0805 13 12 11 10 a brightburningfire. to showMikehowabarbecue-fireisstarted.Withintenminutesthewatchmenhad could notlookatthatuselessbusinessanylongerandcamealongwithsomefuel sweater tothrowitbesidethewannabe-fire.Thenight-watchguardsfromyard back rigorouslybutwithoutsuccess.Hewassweatinglikehell,andpulledoff his was clearlyunaccustomed.Hetriedhardtokeepthefiregoingbyswingingapaper- a long-sleevedsweaterforfearofmosquitoes,beganthefire,taskwithwhichhe steaks. Finally,afteranhourofchatwiththisWilly,Mike,dressedinlongpantsand en friend.InsteadofthreeT-boneshehadanenormousamountpaper-thin evening. Mikehadevenvolunteeredtomakethefire. money andaskedhimtobringhomethreeT-bonesteaksforabarbecueinthe would pay. chance tobetakenupbythesingle-handers.Asecondvoiceaskedhowmuchhe couple ofdays.Therewasnoresponse.Oneguysaidagirlwouldhavebetter show agreatinterestindinner. wasn’t interestedintheconcertofwhistlingfrogseveningeither.Buthedid want toexplorethetremendousmarineandbirdlifeofmangrovelagoon, him. Butno;hedidn’tnoticethepelicans,didnotwanttogoforaswim, very differentthaninEurope,sowethoughtitallmustbeextremelyinterestingto this bigjumpacrosstheoceanintoacompletelynewworld.Manythingshereare different sailingboatsorthemanypowerboats,storedfourstorieshighinashed. breakfast wewentaroundtheboatyardwithhim.Nothinginterestedhim,not of weeksforajobasdiveinstructor,soMikecouldslipintoAngelus’space. ing. Butifyoudonot wanttowork,thenyoudonotseethe work. ing ameal,washing dishes, cleaningparts,byaskingwhatto do,lookingandlearn- work todo.Evenpeople whoarenotusedtoboatmaintenance couldhelp,bycook- out sailingforthefew monthsbeforetheendofhisholidays. Butwehadheapsof we thoughtcould testwhetherwecouldlivewithhimand eventuallytakehim mails toushehadwrittenthatwaswilling tohelpusgettheboatready.And yard wastooboring.Hecompletely uninterested intheslightestthing.Inhise- he leftfortown.Noproblem,wehadplain ricewithsomeveggies. the galleytherewerenomoresteaks.Mike hadshovelledtheminforlunchbefore But hisownclotheshewashedwithourwashing powder,andherinsedthemproperly. job forourvisitor;hescrubbedtheropesbut didnotrinsethem.Heleftthisjobforme. been washedbefore.Yes,ropesget everyyearon soapy waterandabrush.Ofcoursethey were dirty.Mikeaskediftheropeshadever our workforatleastonehour.Thenhestrolledup. the lateafternoonhesatdownonalogabout30metresfromusandwatched do guisher. AfterthisjobhedisappearedintotownforInternet.Whencameback in night before.Wegavehimthetaskofpaintingouralready-primedsmallfireextin- still left. existent. Mikewasoblivioustoallthis,butnoproblem,thereatleastsomemeat ing into well. Insteadofadinnerforthree,ithadtobesharedbetweensixpeople,allsqueez- course, twoofthewatchmenwhohelpedhimtomakefireinvitedthemselves as recommended thequalityandquantityofmeat.MikeinvitedWilly, of knew whyMikebroughtthatamountofmeat.ItwashisnewfriendWillywhohad boats, maintenance,andsailing.OursonAngelushadjustleft thing thathadtodowithsailing.Weexpectedayoungboy,keenlearnabout youth whenIwashappytobetaughtanythingaboutboatmaintenance,andevery- agreed, andoffered,tohelpuswithourboatprojects.Ithoughtbackmyown days withus,whilehelookedaroundforanotherboat. There wasnotevenathoughtofsailing.WeofferedtoletMikestayatleastfew cockpit cutopen;theengineroomneededacompleterefit,paintjobseverywhere. be welcomedaboardmanyboatsinthefollowingyearbeforeresuminghisstudies. When hesentthee-mail,infact,hadalreadybookedhisflightandexpectedto Mike, asweshallcallhim,hadjustfinishedschoolandnowwantedtogosailing. us butwantingtosailintheCaribbeanpickedouraddressfromsailingclub’slist. Sailing WithYou? Meanwhile itwasalready9:00 It wasalreadydarkwhenheturnedup,incompanyofanewly-madeanddrunk- After breakfastMikedecidedtogotownvisittheInternet.Wegavehimsome The nextmorningIaskedontheradioifsomeonewouldtakeMikeforasail It turnedoutthatMikehadneverbeforelefthishomecountry.Nowhemade And thenMikewasstandingwithhisbackpackinfrontof One hourwork—onesailing!ThisisthearrangementwehadproposedtoMike. The fourthdayMikedisappearedagain intotownforInternet!Maybelifeinthe For dinnerIplannedtousetheleftover steaks fromdaybefore.WhenIwentinto We askedhimtowashourropesfromthemizzen,andhandedabucketwith Next dayMikefoundoutthathissweaterhadbeenburnedinthebarbecue Countless e-mailswentbackandforth.Hewasthrilledtobewelcomedbyus At thattimeourboatwasonthehardformajorrepairs.Themastdown, It allbeganwithanenthusiastice-mailwereceived.Somebodytotallyunknownto then youdonotseethework” “If youdonotwanttowork, Angelos’ Can ICome meagre space,toolsandpartslayingeverywhere,thecockpitnon- by AngelikaGruener PM . Thethinsteakswerequicklydone,andnowwe Angelos —Continued onnextpage —Continued Angelos. . Thisalsowasnota Angelos After asturdy for acouple JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35 VHF: 16 CARRIACOU E-mail: [email protected] Sandy Island & Tyrrel-Bay Sandy Island www.scubamax.com Phone/Fax: 473.443.8175 • at PADI 5 * Standard Air-Fills [email protected] • and Snorkel Gear Rental Scuba • for Sailors Special Group Prices 50-ton hoist, 18ft beam, 8ft draft Fuel Dock, Water Do it yourself or labour available Mini - Marina Chandlery New environmentally friendly haulout & 15 Specialties in English & Deutsch & 15 Specialties ● ● ● ● ● ● PADI Courses from Beginner to Instructor from Beginner to Instructor PADI Courses • FUEL, OIL, WATER and ICE • at Hillsborough, Service for Sailors Rendezvous • pm or individually dives at 9.30 am and 1.30 Daily Phone/Fax (473) 443-7882 and VHF CH 16 and VHF CH 443-7882 (473) Phone/Fax Find us right in the town of Hillsborough! the town us right in Find Call sign: “Golf Sierra” VHF channel 16 at the cheapest prices in the Grenadines. Reynold Belmar. Tel/Fax: (473) 443-9110 supplies of For further information call Glenn Clement or www.doyleguides.com All the info you need if you are planning a cruise! All the info you need if you are planning a Welcomes you to Petite Martinique B & C FUELS A stepping stone as you ENTERPRISE Come alongside our splendid jetty and replenish your & updates on the web at cruise through St. Vincent, Grenada and the Grenadines. “Have you got the latest Windwards guide yet?” “Have you got the latest Windwards guide the Caribbean's best sellers! the Caribbean's Your Expert Guide to Carriacou’s Best Diving Best Carriacou’s Guide to Expert Your CHRIS DOYLE'S GUIDES CHRIS DOYLE'S Check out the features that make them Check out the Full Color sketch charts photography Aerial and scenic color relevant text Up-do-date, lively and Downloadable waypoints TRAINING INSTRUCTOR TYRREL BAY YACHT HAULOUT TYRREL BAY YACHT , a web- goes to press. . He showed no will to help, wanted . He showed no Compass ! Because for one hour sailing — one . Angelos Angelos http://caribbeanwhalefriends.org/index.htm Info & Updates readers to know that if you are in Bequia and have Compass This day Mike turned up again in the afternoon asking what we would have for we would asking what the afternoon up again in Mike turned This day It did in town completely depressed. came back from the Internet Next day Mike we kicked Mike out of After five days One year later a man we had known for years, let’s call him Fred, aged 56, asked One year later a man we had word from Fred that our sailing friend in Honduras A short time later, we received our boats and our life out at sea. We need lots of Most of us work hard to afford to pay the minimum, they They do not want to be “hands on”, they do not want need help to run our boats None of us, whether single-handed, couple or family, the hard, when it is dusty When there is work to do, usually when the boat is on Cruisers’ Site-ings The Caribbean Large Marine Ecosystem (CLME) Project’s goal is sustainable management of the shared living marine resources of the Caribbean through an inte- grated management approach. CLME has a new website: www.cavehill.uwi.edu/cermes/clme.html Carriacou Charity Auction us in Carriacou for special Melodye Pompa reports: Please make every effort to join raise funds (and fun!) for the activities during the Carriacou Regatta Festival as we Potluck Barbecue on Carriacou Children’s Education Fund (CCEF). The CCEF be held at the Carriacou August 1st, and the CCEF Auction on August 2nd, will Festival takes place Yacht Club at Tyrrel Bay. The entire 42nd Carriacou Regatta the last week-end. from July 29th to August 6th, with sailboat races held on us — if no tropical storms Our favorite auctioneer, Mike Jordan, promises to be with up with pledged dona- are threatening! Several businesses have already queued tions and we have at least one new business supporter, Patty’s Deli in Hillsborough. If you can’t be there for the fun, when passing through Carriacou please drop off “treasures of the bilge” for the auction, household items for the “$10 and Under” table, and craft items. These can be left at the Carriacou Yacht Club. And if you can’t get to Carriacou at all but want to help this worthy cause, there are several ways we can accept cash donations from afar. For more information on helping the Carriacou Children’s Education Fund, contact [email protected]. For more information on Carriacou Regatta visit www.carriacouregatta.com. an emergency, a problem or just need some local knowledge, he’s ready and will- an emergency, a problem or just need some local knowledge, Just call “African” on VHF ing to help you as he has helped many others in the past. Hotel bar. You’ve got a 68 or cell phone 593-3986 or ask for him at the Frangipani friend in Bequia. May 1st saw the launching of Who Ya Gonna Call? operator Winston “African” There are still Good Samaritans in this world. Water taxi Simmons would like site devoted to promoting “whale-friendly” policies in the Caribbean through public education and information on the impacts of decisions taken at meetings of the International Whaling Commission (IWC). The 59th annual meeting of the IWC is taking place in Anchorage, Alaska, as this issue of Many people in the Eastern Caribbean depend on good governance of marine resources for their livelihoods and for development to be sustainable. However, there is an urgent need to build capacity and network connections for adaptation and resilience, into present and planned marine resource governance. To assist in addressing this need, the Centre for Resource Management (CERMES) at the University of the West Indies is undertaking applied research on marine resource governance in the Eastern Caribbean. Visit this project’s website at www.cavehill.uwi.edu/cermes/margov_profile.html dinner. When the work crows over your head you do not think a lot about fancy food, a lot about fancy do not think your head you crows over When the work dinner. bored in he was lying work orders give him some for Mike to When I looked do you? for music, waiting to his favourite ears, listening in his salon, headphones the cool where we didn’t know were so busy us, while we a fool of This rascal made dinner. no work, no food. he never got the message: to begin. It seemed from home in in Venezuela is different his head that everything not get into skin, they speak the people have a dark streets have yellow stripes, Germany. The is loud, the cars see the tiles, the music on the houses he can another language, was homesick. that annoyed him. He definitely worn out — all —Continued page from previous us if he could come sailing with us for a few months. He wanted to escape from his with us for a few months. He wanted to escape from us if he could come sailing time, he said, we should be done with our boat main- family after Christmas. By that that we not spend too much time in any one anchorage, tenance. And he preferred sailing. We declined, for various reasons. And because as he actually wanted to go stays, we gave him the address of a friend, sailing we do have long anchoring at that time, who sometimes took friends. single-handed in Honduras/Belize week plus provisioning. His expenditures would come wanted money, 200 Euros per to the cost of the flight, it would be very expensive, to 1000 Euros per month. Added We were asked if the use of a mattress and dishes justi- and he could not afford it. a visitor on a yacht does not cause so much addi- fied this cost. In Fred’s opinion, amount of money. Fred saw himself not as a charter tional trouble as to justify that guest, but as useful company. to maintain our floating homes. We spend hours, days, skills, effort and patience of in good shape. Don’t get me wrong, we love our way and weeks to keep the boat matter that it is often hard work. But some people have life, we accept our work, no of onto our boats thinking that WE are in urgent need the idea they just can step I’m here, let’s go!” THEM and they can say, “Now a cool drink with rattling ice just expect to sit in the shade on the yacht holding staying longer in a place than cubes, awaiting dinner service, impatient that we are is worth the money they think is necessary. And they ask if using our mattresses they are asked to pay! can stay for free as friends. or company to entertain us. If WE INVITE somebody they stays too long it starts to But remember, friends on boats are like fish: if the fish and they will get served. In smell. If others INVITE THEMSELVES, they have to pay, we pay them, so that we can cases where we need crew or workers we hire them and tell them what to do. There is nothing else between. he can help you, expecting in and hot, there is never anyone coming along to ask if lazily creep around the mari- the end to go sailing with you. No, these people always our 18 years of sail- nas looking for boats that are all ready to go to sea. Throughout hanging on the travel lift, or ing, it has always been the same. If the boat is ready, you surely will get asked, it is certain from the season that the boat must be ready, “Can I come sailing with you?” Not on —Continued from page 6 always to be served; in short, we had more work with him than without him. He took work with him than without in short, we had more always to be served; turn around for left the boatyard he did not We said good-bye. When he his rucksack. managed further. from him about how he never received another e-mail a last wave. We hour work! JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 23) THUNDER 22) TRADE 20) THROW 18) TIDE 17) TOWAGE 16) TAR 13) TOOT 12) TOTAL 10) THRUST 9) TOE 8) TOPSAIL 7) TRICE 4) TICKET 2) TIGHT 1) TOY ACROSS Crossword Solution crew andothersclosetoyou.It’sokaysayno. Spend sometimeworkingonyourcommunicationswith yourself inroughseasyourrelationshipsandbusiness. forget theneedsofcrewandlovedones,youcouldfind others’ lackofunderstandinggetyoudown. a lotoftackingtostayonyourchosencourse.Don’tlet your handsbusywithsomethingproductiveontheboat. nities togetintrouble.Justquiveryourarrowsandkeep leaking everytimeyoutakeseasontheforedeck. caulking thatlastbitofdeckoverthefo’c’s’lethat’sbeen good energytocleanupprojectsthatneed“tweaking”,like machines, themonthshouldsailbysmoothly.Junebrings pump thebilgebeforedeparting! and spendsometimeofftheboat.Justdon’tforgetto irritations androughspots,nonetobetakentooseriously. stray fromyourchosenwaypoints.Buttheyarejustpetty ing yourcourse! traditional monthforweddings.Theremaybeonecross- turn offtheradioandusetelepathy? static onalllinesandevenapossiblebreakdown.Timeto and don’tletoutsidedistractionsmakeyouwanderoffit. June, butnothingserious.Sticktoyourchosencourse business orfinancialdealings. horizon asfastitcango.Don’tletthisscuttleyour tial influence. Sail offtosomequietcoveandmakethemostofthisceles- There willbeendlesschangesofsailandconditions. If yougettoowrappedupinyourowngratificationand Everyone willseemargumentativeandcranky.You’lldo A stormofhormoneswillgiveyoufartoomanyopportu- Other thanafewglitcheswiththegremlinsin Better totakeabreakfromtheusualonboardrituals There willbedistractionsgalorethismonthtomakeyou It’s lovethatmakestheworldgo’roundthisJune, Communication technologywillberifewithproblems: There maybeafewsquallsonyourcreativecoursethis Fickle loveisinfullflight,runningdownwindforthe Love willfillyoursailssomewhereinthesecondweek. JUNE 2007 SAGITTARIUS (23Nov-21Dec) CAPRICORN (22Dec-20Jan) QAIS(21Jan-19Feb) AQUARIUS SCORPIO (24Oct-22Nov) TAURUS (21Apr-21May) GEMINI (22May-21Jun) CANCER (22Jun-23Jul) PISCES (20Feb-20Mar) VIRGO (24Aug-23Sep) ARIES (21Mar-20Apr) LIBRA (24Sep-23Oct) 12) TRADER 11) TILLER 10) TIDAL 9) TWO 7) THRUM 6) TOME 5) TOUCH 4) TOSS 3) TIER 1) TORTUE DOWN 28) TARTANES 27) TIMBERS 25) TILT 24) THROUGH LEO (24Jul-23Aug) 27) TE 26) TOW 23) THIS 21) TOTE 21) TOLL 20) THUMB 19) TOSH 18) THWART 17) TIME 15) TED 14) TIES ON ANCHOR The cyclerunson. Guarded bytheSouthernCross. Fifty boatsatrest, Stars lightupthesky. Azure turnstoindigo, The sunsinksaway, Clouds areroseandgrey. Falls towardthehorizon. The afternoonsun White againsttheblue. Towering thunderheadsrise Beyond thewestridge Bound forMexico. Marching fromtheAtlantic The squalllinespasssouth, Fifty hullsgleaming. Indigo turnstoazure, The sunrunsitsarc, Rocky shores,saveone. Ringed bylush,ruggedhills. A broadopenbay, This ancientrefuge. In thesafetyofthisbay, A newdaybegins Dance onindigo. Slipping overtheeastridge The firstraysofthesun in forthenight. settled as thevillage a distantlaugh clink ofaglass, chorus offrogs, A fallin’frond, jungle breezes. scented, on lingerin’, wafted night sounds on theshorebelow, Wavelets murmured with thegloamin’. in stealin’ long shadows the tropiceve, in I wassettin’ in thetwo-bourbontwilight, In atimebeforeterrorists, Island Poets In theGoodOldDays — JohnRowland

— NicholasLee VAL WHITNEY VAL JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37 Solution on page 36 — , famous Virgin island charter yacht Nautical Alphabet: Nautical Amo ‘T’ Number Three Number ‘T’ and frames to the other 25) Heel over 27) ‘Shiver me ______’ vessels 28) Certain Mediterranean ACROSS on a charterboat, e.g. 1) Windsurfer 2) Without slack license 4) Slang for captain’s 7) To haul up 8) Type of schooner on boat 9) Type of rail screw propeller 10) Effort of a 12) Final count 13) Tugboat tale, ‘Little ____’ 16) Jack’s last name? 17) Payment for 25 Down 18) Can be spring or neap moves 20) Distance a pump handle 22) Famous Caribbean wind 23) Product of lightning from one side of planks 24) ______fastened; bolted DOWN 1) French for turtle ropes are stored 3) Place in ship where coiled position 4) Order to place oars in perpendicular the counter 5) Angle of stern timbers at 6) ‘Bowditch’ is one 7) Coarse woolen or hemp yarn 9) Minimum number of bearings to find position 10) Pertaining to 17 Across 11) Steering arm attached to rudder head 12) Baltic ______; type of wooden ship 14) Sail gaskets 15) Short for Edward 17) Greenwich Mean ____ 18) Rower’s seat 19) Reggae star, Peter ____ 20) Cleat that stops topsail reef earrings from slipping 21) Fee 22) Carry 23) Not that 26) To drag another vessel using a line 27) __ On-line! 6 9 25 26 18 13 14 rossword 11 C Caribbean Compass 2007 7 23 © 15 Caribbean Compass Caribbean [email protected] 23 ruising ruising 27 10 19 20 21 C www.caribbeancompass.com 45

ompass

28 Subscribe to the

1 8 22 24 16 17

C parlumps marooned JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38

ELAINE OLLIVIERRE 2007 © about lookingforaneasymealwhenhespiedthecav- had lostatoothandhisjawached.Hewasprowling bull sharkhadaneviltemperandhewashungry.He agreed longagonevertoharmMermaidMerry.Butthe shark. Sharkshadneverbeenaproblem,having and writingforthelittlefish! as amatteroffact.Sheevenheldclassesinreading she hadlotsofcompanions,allthecolourfulreeffish shiny thatyoucanseeyourselfinthem. the scalesofglassysweeperaresoperfectand the bodyloopsdownlikeaflatspoon,butbestofall, dle ofamirror.Underthisstraightback,therest straight backendinginashorttail,justlikethehan- sweepers arestrange-lookingfish.Theyhavea sweeper, becamehermirror. see howbeautifulshewas,soherfriend,theglassy brush. Likegirlseverywhere,MermaidMerrylikedto strokes bothmorningandnightwithabristleball hair. OfcourseMerrybrushedherhairahundred wrists andevenpinnedsomeintoherlong,redgold strings ofbeads.Sheworethemaroundherneckand pearls, somedecoratedwithlavenderalgae,into through thecavern. coloured seafanswaitingtosweepcoolwaterright and ifshefelttoowarm,thereweremanylilac- Mermaid Merrycouldlighthercandelabrumoctocoral, write on.Ifshewasn’ttootiredintheevening, pencil coraltowritewithandpapyrusprintalgae ever Merrywantedaquicksnack.Shehadyellow walls ofhercavernandwerereadyforpickingwhen- wine glassestodrinkfrom.Seagrapesgrewonthe outside herdoor,andshehadprettywhitemermaid’s cups”, atypeofseaweedwhichgrewconvenientlyjust sea moss. canopy. Themattresswasmadeofthesoftestwhite green netalgaewasdrapedabouttoformapretty Merry’s home.Pinklacecoraldecoratedthebedand Various seacreatureshadallhelpedinbuilding ing engineerswhoconstructsafeandcozyhomes. Merry and,asI’veexplainedbefore,jawfisharebuild- had designedthecavernespeciallytopleaseMermaid clear, tropicalwaters.Anoldandexperiencedjawfish usually liketoseethesunshiningdownthrough deep becausethecavernwasmadeofcoralandcorals that’s onlybecauseyouhaveneverseenone.Ihave. can laughandsaythatmermaidsdon’texist,but Then, oneday,outoftheblueswamaferociousbull Mermaid Merrywasneverboredorlonelybecause Now wecometotheexcitingpart.Yousee,glassy Merry threadedthelovelydeepgreen,shinysea Mermaid Merryservedteainher“mermaid’s Mermaid Merrylivedinacavernthesea,nottoo Y ments ofvarious speciesoffish andestimatetheirpopulations. helpful tofisheriesmanagement authorities,whoneedtobeable totrackthemove- fishermen arealsoable totagandthenreleasesomeofthefish theycatch.Thisis with mechanizedreels andfastpowerboats,theprincipleis same.Hook-and-line “catch andrelease”method. Althoughtheirequipmentmaylook moresophisticated, off thehookandthrow itstraightbackintothesea.Sportsfishermen alsousethis ly friendlymethodbecauseifanunwanted fishiscaught,thefishermancantakeit be attachedtoalongstick(rod).Hand-lining orhook-and-lineisanenvironmental- jetty. Thefishermenbaitahookattheend oftheline.Thelineitselfmayornot using lengthsoftwinetocatchthelittle fish thatarefoundinschoolsunderany are usuallyusedtocatchlargeocean-going fishsuchasbluefintunaandswordfish. minium orwoodenspearintoasinglefish, butexpertfishermencandoit.Harpoons These methodsaretheoldestinworld anduselittletechnology. one time,andwhichdoesnotdamagethe seafloor,isenvironmentallyfriendly. immediately released),orwhichtargetsonefishaloneratherthanhundredsat ronment. DOLLY’S DEEPSECRETS by LeeKessell ly aboutacertainmermaidIknow.Yes,you er fishhastodowiththestorywhenitisreal- On manyawharfanddinghydockinthe Caribbean,youwillseefishermen Harpooning isonesuchmethod.There’sa lot ofskillneededtothrustalongalu- Any fishingmethodwhichhasnoby-catch(ortakescanbe We havelookedatfishingmethodswhichcanbeverydamagingtotheenvi- ou’re goingtowonderwhattheglassysweep-

Are thereanywhicharenotsodestructive? Hel lo! M y n a

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sweeper’s pinktinted,shinyscales?Notonlyherown her mirror.Andwhatdidsheseereflectedintheglassy at thesametimethatMermaidMerrywaslookinginto Shark stormedtowardstheentrancetocavernjust ern. Perfect!Themermaidwouldbeeasypickings.Bull Glassy Sweeper!

the glassysweeper,

n CRUISING KIDS’CORNER became hermirror

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a liked tosee . she was, Cheers for friendly method. squares andfindthenameofacreature usuallycaughtbyanenvironmentally- write intothespacesprovided.Thenunscramble thelettersfoundingrey there willbefishonthedinnertableforforeseeablefuture! seafood. So,itisimportantthatcurrentfishstocksarewell-managedso the potsareraised. once again,itispossibletoreleasejuvenilecreaturesandunwantedspecieswhen damage thismaycause,potsandtrapsaremostlyenvironmentallyfriendlyas, when theseaisroughandbouncesthemaround.However,apartfromminor pots backupsomedayslater.Fishpotsandtrapsmaydragalongtheseafloor dwelling fish,lobsters,etcetera,andholdthemaliveuntilthefishermenhaul with alonglineandfloatingbuoytomarktheirpositions.Theyattractbottom- usually madefromgalvanizedironmesh)whicharedroppedontotheseafloor any unwantedfishcanbereturnedtotheseastraightaway. ing boat.Thefishermenpullintheirlinesassoontheyfeelsomethingbite,so trawling!). Introlling,fishinglineswithbaitedhooksaretowedbehindthefish- )ERASEEL FLIBUNE 7) CHATBYC 6) TABITHA 5) SESPICE 4) SPITHOF 3) PHOANOR 2) 1) Unscramble thefollowingseven-letterwordstakenfrompassageand Word Puzzle Unfortunately, thesemethodsalonecannotsatisfytheglobaldemandfor Fishpots andtrapsarebaitedcages(oncemadefromwoodorwickerbutnow An extensionofthehook-and-linemethodistrolling(nottobeconfusedwith the firsttimejusthowbeautifultheyallwere. reflective scalesofMistressGlassySweeper,seeingfor Glassy Sweeper!” So myfriends,let’sgiveaspecialcheertoMistress n’t reflectedthatbigbullshark’suglyfacejustintime. would havebeeninvainifdearGlassySweeperhad- announced: ror, helditbeforeherandwithprettiestsmile came forwardandstillholdingherglassysweepermir- the seafans,andelectriceel.ThenMermaidMerry gave thankstothegreennetalgae,spinyurchins, fish gatheredabouttocelebratetheirvictory.They into thedeeps. a boulderandgroaningsputteringlimpedback shark rearedup,didabackflip,knockeditsheadon right tobe,gaveitsuchalashofelectricitythatthe investigate andseeingthebullsharkwhereithadno the commotion,rushedoutofitshollowinreefto make himgaspinsurprise.Anelectriceel,hearingall the suddenthrustofwaterdownshark’sthroat instantly pushedtheflowofwaterinreverse,and spines likespearstowardofftheattack.Theseafans gathered togetherinformationandheldouttheir sentry dutyinoddcornersofthecavern.Theynow ones withthelong,sharpblackspines,werealwayson er intoatightcurtaintohideher.Seaurchins,the of herbedwherethegreennetalgaegatheredtogeth- her friend,theglassysweeper,dartedaroundback of long,sharpteethMr.BullShark. pretty face,butthebigopenmouthbristlingwithrows THE END And sotheydid,eachtakingturnstolookintothe “Indeed Ithankyouallforsavingmylifebut When everythinghadreturnedtonormal,allthereef Quick asaflash,Merry,holdingtightlytothetailof — Answersonpage 29 JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39 is dedicat- , “I was proud Compass Boaters’ Directory On the same occasion, Jesse was also presented On the same occasion, Jesse Boaters’ Enterprise gives special thanks to the book The Trinidad & Tobago Boaters’ Directory is available Publisher Jack Dausend tells Publisher Jack Dausend tells The 13th edition of the The 13th edition to grant the book dedication to Jesse. It was well to grant the book dedication to have someone so out- deserved and it is an honour He is a great man.” He’s standing here in Trinidad. noting that he had a also funny. At the book launch, to thank in a short list of “a few friends” he wanted then let a ten-foot sheaf of acceptance speech, Jesse to the floor. computer paper accordion Water Sailing Service with the South Bound II Blue Commodore of the Seven Trophy by Denis Webster, who observed that when he Seas Cruising Association, there were only eight vis- first visited Trinidad in 1994, anchorage and none in iting yachts in the TTSA times have changed! This Chaguaramas Bay. How by an amusing rendition of presentation was followed Jesse”, by The Mighty an original calypso, “Call provided by Scorpion Yachtie. Further entertainment Tassa Drums, and Pan Reflection and the Tri-Star refreshments from Angostura, Joe’s Pizza and “the doubles crew” rounded out the occasion. launch sponsors: Angostura, Associated Marine Design, Budget Marine, Coral Cove Marina, Dockyard Electric, IMS, Joe’s Pizza, the Mighty Yachtie, Power Boats, Tropical Marine and TTSA. at the Boaters’ Enterprise office and the YSATT office, both located in the Shipwright Building at CrewsInn Hotel & Yachting Centre, Chaguaramas, Trinidad, or at www.BoatersEnterprise.com. ed to Jesse James of Members Only Maxi Taxi Service, of Members Only Maxi ed to Jesse James to the providing outstanding service an individual all over the who come to Trinidad from many sailors Jesse, states that “Through world. The dedication our visitors in the much has been done to involve and Tobago.” multi-faceted culture of Trinidad Boaters’ Directory lists local sources for boat Boaters’ Directory of Trinidad & Boaters’ Directory of Trinidad & Boaters’ Directory of Trinidad , published by Boaters Enterprise Ltd , published recognizes and respects those sailors and . The arrival of the 2007/2008 edition of this . The arrival of the 2007/2008 Boaters’ Directory

The longevity and size of the The longevity and size of New in this edition is a chapter on cruising destina- Trinidad & Tobago Boaters’ Directory Tobago Boaters’ Trinidad & gathered on a hundred well-wishers A crowd of over The tions outside T&T, in support of the Caribbean Marine Association’s theme of “Many Islands, One Sea”. As the text explains, “The Tobago was heralded by guest guide to all things yacht-related President of the Yacht speakers Tommy Johnson, & Tobago (YSATT) and Services Association of Trinidad Director of Caribbean PJ Williams, Managing Propellers Ltd. services, storage facili- parts, repair and maintenance and gives information on ties, provisions, etcetera, tours, sightseeing oppor- official regulations as well as and useful maps are tunities, and more. Tide tables also included. Tobago cruisers who believe in an “active anchor” and a “where to next?” attitude…. Trinidad and Tobago offer just one part of the whole fantastic and beautiful Caribbean.” This edition’s cruising destination chapter features Curaçao, Grenada and Guyana. We look forward to seeing other neighboring destinations high- lighted in future editions. 2007/2008 in Chaguaramas, the lawn of Tropical Marine official launching of the Trinidad, on May 16th for the 13th edition of the ©2007. Paperback, 250 pages, color photos and maps. 250 pages, color photos ©2007. Paperback, US$5/TT$30. to Trinidad & Tobago & Trinidad to Latest Boaters’ Reference Boaters’ Latest & Tobago’s commit- reflects the success of Trinidad about 17 years in exis- ment to yachting. After only the twin-island state’s tence, what is now termed brings some US$25 mil- “yachting industry” currently year and directly employs lion into the country per 1,500 people. JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40

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Viewpoints Insider BOOK REVIEWBYBOBBERLINGHOF are enlightening. sweet, andmany humorous, somearebitter- what itisliketolivehere.Someare to givethereaderaninsider’saccountof vignettes, andpersonalaccountsthatattempts 978-1-4050-7136-9. Caribbean ©2006,paperback,209pages.ISBN13: Dream predecessors butwhenitishis turnhedeftlymanages Our herowatchesthe ragingbullgorethreeofhis enter theringina bullfight opentonewmatadors. Cuban travelstoSpain, and,penniless,decidesto refers toajoketoldby aCubantotheauthor:young tourist whenallyou wanttodoisblendin.Thetitle it alsodealswithhowfeelstobestigmatized asa dimly: Idoubtthisbookcouldbesoldin Havana.Yet society underCastro,uponwhichFidel mightlook al dissatisfactioninCuba,butitisalso acritiqueof recorded monologuesbecauseoftheirrealism. technique totheextremeandalmostfeel liketape- takethis Morning attheLibrary”and“Ond’Beat” account ofwastingtimeincourt.Philip Nanton’s“A Oonya Kempadoo’s“OurWorshipSir”, ahilarious the touristexperience”. readers whowanttogetbeyondtheexoticsurfaceof ers ofmainlyCaribbeanorigin,orwhoknowitwell,for collection ofpersonalviewsCaribbeanlifebywrit- goal wastoprovide“awell-writtenandidiosyncratic Indies. Shewritesinthebook’sintroductionthather of works,isalecturerattheUniversityWest but can’tkeepupwithdemand. traffic asheslicesandpresentshisnutseffortlessly, Vroom”), andacoconutvendor(“Shades”)whostops out “driving”everyday,atleastinhismind(“Vroom harmless madmanwholiveswithhismotherandgoes and ofplayingmasatCarnival.Thereisacolorful Shakespeare competition,ambiguitytowardstourists, match, trafficjamsinBridgetown,Carriacou’s West IndianChristmas,atypicalcourtroom,cricket larities inculture.Therearefirst-handaccountsofa Caribbean seemquaintandfoolishgiventheirsimi- The nationalboundariesoftheEnglish-speaking based onthetypeofstory,ratherthanbygeography. ated bythisreader. them waswellappreci- maligned, including frequently ignoredor these twoislandsare and Haiti.Since tions beingCuba with notableexcep- speaking islands, from theEnglish- dispatches are Caribbean Dispatches Caribbean Dispatches,BeyondtheTourist “The BullWhisperer”byIanCraigisastory ofsexu- Many storiesusedialecteffectively,none betterthan Jane Bryce,whocompiledandeditedthisselection The bookislooselyorganizedintofivesections, Most ofthe , compiledandeditedbyJaneBryce,Macmillan is aseriesofreports, www.macmillan-caribbean.com. Caribbean culture. insightful guideto thegreatdiversitythatis here, andtakenasa wholethisbooksucceedsasan ranging collection.Thereissomething foreveryone onate aswellothers,thisisnormalin suchawide- Though someofMs.Bryce’s40selections didnotres- Caribbean, ortoanyonewhoappreciates goodwriting. seeking adeeperunderstandingofwhat it meanstobe shut up.” contribution Icouldmakenow,thought, wouldbeto that ispoliticsinTrinidad,heconcludes, “Sothebest sobering, wittyandwise.Afterdiscussing themess must comefromwithin…. is nootherchoice.Theanswers,andthequestions, to interfere….Ifyoubelieveinself-determination,there own mistakes;anditisneithergraciousnorcourteous make itsownchoices,choosedestiny,it will unfoldastheymust.Societygoitsownway, how passionatelyyouseekitsbestinterests…Things identify withyouradoptivecountry.Itdoesn’tmatter years tolearnthis.Itdoesn’tmatterhowmuchyou sider cansaywillmakeanydifference….Ittookme20 the answertocrime,youkeepquiet—nothinganout- the immediate“swinging”ofwholeDeathRowas hear awell-knownpersonalityontheradiocallingfor ty thatlongagobanishedthedeathpenaltyandyou traded foradegreeofdiscretion.Ifyou’refromsocie- think ofanywhereelseas‘home’… locals do.Youletyouraccentsoften.nolonger else inconversations…andlistentothesamemusicas ole diet,drinkatlocalbars,shoutasloudanyone learn theartofliming,adoptlocaldressstyleandcre- longer youstay,themorecomplexthingsbecome...You becomes anissue,whetheryounoticeitornot….The roots inyouradoptivecountry,itsoonerorlater er anyone.Butifyouhavethetemeritytoputdown you. Foracoupleofweeks’holiday,thatdoesn’tboth- in somebodyelse’s,youcarryyourownculturewith saved thebestforlast.LennoxHonychurch’s ual encounterwithapriestess. in Haiti,featuringafairlyraw,orwell-imagined,sex- engaging thanmerelywitnessingvoodooceremonies “How IGotMyVodouVisa”,whichwasfarmore and cricketfans.MyfavoriteSimonLeeofferingwas and his“OvalLime”anequallyjoviallookatcricket about aculture-drencheddrinkingspreeinHavana, giving us: just gavehimthechoiceourComandanteisalways press demandofhim.“Quitesimple,”hereplies.“I “But whateverdidyousaytothebull,compadre?” he whispersinthebull’sear.Thebullfallsdowndead. to sidestepthebullafewtimes,andonfifthpass “Territory oftheHeart:JeanRhys’sDominica”isa touching reminiscenceofboththeeraandphys- Available atbookstores orfrom I wouldrecommendthisbooktoallvisitors whoare Mr. Taylor’scommentsareatturnshilariousand As partofthedeal,Caribbeanpleasureshavetobe When youleaveyourcountryofbirthandsettledown Have Igotyourattentionyet?hopeso,forI’ve Simon Lee’s“HowILostMyCamerainHavana”is ical landmarksofthatwonderfulauthor.Butmy favourite storywasJeremyTaylor’s“FittingIn”.In 1971 Trinidad,heteachesEnglishinaprestigious Catholic boys’highschool: with T.S.EliotandJaneAusten,thechoir He observescoolly: learned Englishfolksongsandseashantiesfor In thecrushingafternoonheat,westruggled the English-stylemusicfestival.Weventured into SamSelvonandtheearlyNaipaulstories, until parentscomplained—Trinidaddialect Socialismo omuerte and aren’tthepeople (now exaltedbysomeacademicsintoasep- arate language)wassimply‘badEnglish,’ and whatwasthisignoramusdoing ‘teaching’ it? writer, buthisfeelingofnot-quite- belonging neverlefthim;hewould He wentontobecomeareviewerand gym. Don’tyoujust always beaforeigner.Hemakes distinction betweenhimselfand other ex-pats: their owncultureandtoregard their newenvironmentmoreor It’s OKforexpatriatestoretain less asaplayground.There’s homes andparties,thesame usually afatcorporatecon- tract, anicesalaryand perks… waitersdiscreetly carrying horsd’oeuvresand well-aged liquors,thegreat and goodmingling back-slapping. Theexpa- receptions, thesame triate tribegathersatthe same bars,the !” (“Socialismordeath!’) wonderful love this place, ? JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41 Beyond the which was written by which was written Beyond the Islands Beyond the In last month’s review of the In last month’s Later in the review, Mr. Tyler autobiography autobiography Islands, and pub- Sir James Mitchell Caribbean, lished by Macmillan Paul Tyler noted our reviewer that “ of a man rising records the life from what once was a small, the distant colony to become leader of a newly independent nation and a recognized leader on the world stage.” suggested that for those uniniti- ated in the history of Caribbean politics and its “welter of names and organizations… a glossary glos- would be helpful.” In fact, a of sary explaining the acronyms relevant regional and international organizations is included. more Rather than being placed the conventionally at the end of at book, this glossary appears the the beginning, along with other acknowledgments and useful introductory material such as maps of the Caribbean and St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and a list of illus- trations (which include an abundant collection of black- CORRECTION This book is available at bookstores or from www.macmillan-caribbean.com. and-white photos ranging from a portrait of the author’s great-grandfather to and-white photos ranging from a portrait of the author’s historic moments cap- one of his youngest daughter taken last year, with many Table of Contents. We tured between). All of these items are clearly listed in the so eager to get to the can only assume that our reviewer, like ourselves, was he skipped over the first body of this illuminating contemporary life story that apologies to the author few pages and plunged straight into Chapter One. Our and publisher. and couldn’t find any up- Valkyrie by Julia Bartlett Now just suppose for the entire planet there was a cruising guide there was a cruising

Pinky: “That was your first mistake; being there. There was plenty of warning.” Pinky: “That was your first mistake; being there. There eye passes they’ll all rip out Skip: “Laying anchors in tandem is no good. When the at 45 degrees, then drink Percy: “I stock up with Imperial rum, lay my two ploughs Don’t make them any more Skip: “Ploughs are okay, but not a patch on a Rusty. Perky: “I wonder why they are called Rusty?” Porky: “When I was in Ivan…” on board.” Pinky: “You don’t know what happened. You weren’t even Percy: “You can’t beat Imperial. Ha! Ha!” though.” Skip: “Good anchors, Imperial. Bit weak in the shaft Perky: “I don’t like them. Expensive for what they are.” than Imperial.” Percy: “Expensive? Can’t get better rum for your money Porky: “When I was…” to this type of debate but Of course you and I wouldn’t be seen dead contributing Now just suppose there was a cruising guide for the entire planet, run by cruis- Okay, if you now superimpose our little skit over that idea you can start to have Such a cruising guide does exist and it’s called Captain Wiki and you can find it Captain Wiki’s ingenious creator, Ben Walsh, was planning to cruise to Margarita Captain Wiki is fashioned after Wikipedia.com, the on-line encyclopedia written, This is a limitless, free arena for us all to share our adventures, knowledge and The ultimate cruising guide is just waiting for us to write it up. Fame and power To grasp the full impact of what I’m about to tell you, I would like you to imagine To grasp the full impact of in the Drunken Sailor, and the old It’s happy hour. Beer is two-for-the-price-of-one The Cast: social worker who has spent too long working on her Pinky – wrinkled, anal, former legs, wears short, short shorts (from which his dang- Porky – thinks he has good a his engine, refrigeration, outboard and lack of Perky – deeply depressed about a ponytail tied over the balding bit, nicotine-stained Percy – grey straggly hair in out of old sails, knows how to use a sextant, built his Skip – sews his own pants Recognise anyone? Subject of the Debate: Anchoring for a Hurricane Five, back before hurri- Skip: “I swear by my Rusty anchor. It held me in a Cat put out five sixty-pounders Perky: “I tied into the mangroves in a tropical storm, Porky: “Well, in Ivan I was in Grenada and…” and away you’ll go. All you need is one Rusty.” the rum. Ha! Ha! That works.” called progress.” because they last forever. No built-in obsolescence. It’s we’ve all overheard it at the next table. ers, for cruisers, where everyone could contribute their own anchoring wisdom, waypoints, security experiences AND edit everyone else’s contributions, on line, instantly, easily and anonymously if they wish. some real fun. at www.captainwiki.com. with his partner Christine Pensivy on their yacht and freely edited, by contributors around the world. Originally intended for cruisers to post or read up on security issues, Captainwiki.com grew and grew and soon it became a destination guide featuring all the stuff that our cast of cruisers from the next table would know already: availability of fuel, spare parts, tips on storm readi- ness, and the best happy hours. strategies. It’s user-friendly and well-organised. Woe betide the business that rips a cruiser off now. Some nice touches are the free boat-position reporting map and the opportunity to post our own personal travel blogs. There must be a recipe page somewhere, there always is. are within every cruiser’s grasp. So if you are looking for a project this hurricane season, get out your log books, surf over to www.captainwiki.com and help build this Wiki site on your Wi-fi. Captain Wiki has been cast adrift in cyberspace and I, for one, am riveted to see where he ends up. Wiki-ed! to-date security information. Ben was a computer programmer in another life so he set up a website to fill the gap. this perhaps familiar scenario. at in earnest debate. Earnest debate is the stage before salts and would-be salts are realizes he or she is losing, senses an imminent squall least one of the participants hatches. and dashes off to batten the as well as her skin and is on her tenth boat in five years. tan and has fried her brains under a huge belly, has a full length mirror in the salon ly bits occasionally escape) good looking” to prospective first mates on the web. and describes himself as “very when it’ll just break again?” “Why shower? They don’t cruising mate. “Why fix it of cry you’ll recognise him by. fancy me anyway,” is the sort keep them short for the guitar) and one leg or the other fingers, chewed nails (has to really cool dude. leg vibrates continuously; a left the harbour for 20 years. own dinghy, sailed round the world, twice, and hasn’t canes had names.” and still sank.” in Cyberspace in is Cast Adrift Adrift is Cast Captain Wiki Wiki Captain JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 metre tugboat, the home, shoppinginEurope, thistimeacquiringa30- guests allthetime. He soldthevesselandwentback enough forawhileof dealingwithnewanddemanding ed onlyforabouta yearwhenhedecidedhad he starteduphisown charterbusiness,butthatlast- Germany allbyhimselfin16days.With the the the necessarycashtoacquirehisfirstvery ownvessel, because, afterthesaleof populated beach. houses alongthenowcrowdedandheavily Vincent hewasthensurroundedbyonlyafew guests. InhisrentedIndianBayhomeinSt. diving charters,mainlycateringtoGerman launch called and apartnerfirstinvestedin32-metremotor ink onhisMarineCaptainCertificatestillwet,he released fromtheGermanMerchantMarine, as yettomakesuchaninvestment.Freshly ago asa24-year-old,hedidnotquitehavethecash Although whenhecametotheCaribbean37years Wolfgang Olszewskididaboutfouryearsago. the cabinshavetobeattachedfirmly…. nails andscrews,becausethepicturesonwallsof land home.Anyextras?Well,youhavetobuyafewextra the supportcostsandutilitieswouldcostyouforadry- it, yourexpensesmayturnouttobeafractionofwhat in disrepairandyouknowhowtomaintainservice it. Aslongasyouwerecarefultobuyaboatthatwasnot fuel, payforinternetserviceandsoon.Butthatisabout pay for(ormake)yourowndrinkingwater,buysome will beamatterofthepast—butcourseyouhaveto decisions. Utilitybillsthewaylandlubbersknowthem onward, youaretheonewhomakeschoicesand you neednoformalities,andfromthefirstminute yacht —getalittlepalace!Tooccupyyourlivingspace it yourhome.AndbyboatImeannotatiny50-foot you shouldbuyyourselfanocean-readyboatandmake selecting yourpreferredclimateandviews?Wellthen or theyear,choosingyourneighborsavoidingthem, without rentalormortgagecharges,anytimeoftheday you canmovearoundatwillfromlocationtolocation, covers some75percentoftheearth,ina“house”that Wolfgang Olszewski 37 YearsintheCaribbean: DIFFERENT BOATSFORFOLKS This firstofhisbusinessesmusthave flourished Buying alive-aboardfloatingpalace:thatiswhat How wouldyouliketoliveonapieceofrealestatethat Moonlight and HisBoats by HansBaer , whichhesailedacrosstheAtlanticfrom Mocambo Seatruck-Stratmann , intendedtobeusedfor Mocambo in 1977,hehad , thefirst such Moonlight picturesque coastofMartinique Seawolfe, Seatruck, vessel inthisregion. engines allowing speedsupto 35knots.Secondly, he outrun thesestorms withthepowerofthree the Caribbean,including hurricanes.Firstly,hecould Wolfgang neverhad anyconcernsaboutweatherin between Englandand Europe,andthusequipped, seas ofEurope’sAtlantic coastsandtheNorthSea further down!). boat, time acquiringthe27-metresearescue andsalvage tugging defunctvesselsofallsizesbetweentheSouth American mainlandofVenezuelaandtheUS.Shewas also availableforcharterbyspecialgroupsneeding The The inter-island transport,suchasaclassofmedicalstu- dents relocatingtoSt.VincentfromGrenada. sense allowedWolfgangtoconsideranotherexpan- sion somefiveyearslater.Wolfgangsoldthe Good businessopportunitiesandgood Seewolf Seatruck Seatruck Seewolf look likearoutine:usinghisgainsandprofits and shoppingforanotherboatinEurope,this resting afteryetanothertowjoboffthe newly arrivedintheYoungIslandCutofSt.Vincent,1977 (watch theprecisespelling,itgetstricky in 1985andrepeatedwhatnowbeganto had beenbuilttocopewiththerough found plentyofbusinessinthoseyears, This timeheendedupwithabigone:the German maritimemuseumandwentshoppingagain. “small” boat.In1990hemanagedtosellita of lifesaving?Wolfgangbythenhadenoughthis required intheCaribbeanwaters. trouble. Eachyear,somefivetotensuchrescueswere saving operationsforcrewsofvariousboatsinserious into anapproachinghurricanejustforthefunofit! the monotony.IcanpictureWolfgangactuallyheading say, heenjoysthechallengeofaroughseatobreak seems tohaveaslightmasochistictraitor,shallwe was received,the were negotiatedoverafaxline,andoncethefinalorder was knownforpromptandreliableservice.Contracts US$10,000 to$30,000arun,andintheindustryhe tional. Rescueandtowingjobsbroughtsome immaculate shape,well-maintainedandhighlyfunc- around 1994whenshewasalreadyrevampedandin son crew.ItisonthisvesselthatImetWolfgang controls, essentiallyallowingittoberunbyatwo-per- highly organizedandwell-equippedvesselwithrobotic the any sizeorpullingthemoffreefs. boat operatorswiththecapabilityoftowingvessels And withthat,hewassuddenlyintheleagueofbig- 200 largestmotoryachts internationally. orated craftsmanship. Onandoff,thewellfurnisheddec- finishing touchestotheinteriorwithhighstandardsof technical functionalityofthevesselbutalsohadput port ofchoiceforrepairs. benign taskssuchastowingdisabledvesselstotheir beach inDominica,butmostcontractsinvolvedmore trickier jobsoncewastopullafreighteroffrocky site, reachingabout15knotsatfullspeed.Oneofhis of — sweetdoingnothing! Lastyear,theSeptemberissue Barts areabutunder thenewnameof far asWolfgangknows, sheiscurrentlysailingintheSt. functionality, reliabilityandbusinessopportunities. As Seawolfe a change:itwastimeagaintosell.Whoever boughtthe Wolfgang Olszewskibecamerestlessagain andneeded the anchoragesofCaribbean. its highwave-breakingbowbecameafamiliar sightin islands oftheLesserAntilles.Theblue Hairoun beers,enjoyingadreamvoyage amongthe an apparentlyunlimitedcapacityforconsumption of Rotarians fromasouthernGermantown, displaying sailing onsmallyachts.Ioncemetupwithagroupof ited storageforluggageandsupplies,overtherigorsof space towalkabout,luxuriousstateroomsandunlim- formance ofarescuevesselandtug,withplenty customers whopreferredthesolidandsturdyper- Now, whatdoyouthinkhappenedafterafewyears For thenextfiveyears, In betweentowingjobs,Wolfgangslowlytransformed By themid-90sWolfganghadperfectednotonly It tookaneternity—ofsomenineyears — andthen Exclusive Seawolfe, Seawolfe got apricelessvesselintermsofperformance, listed thevesselasnumber 151amongthe with its80tonsofaluminum,intoa provided charterservicestogroupsof Seawolfe was quicktoarriveatthe —Continued onnextpage —Continued Seewolf Dolce FarNiente performed life- Seawolfe Seawolfe with . JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 43 Marmaris indeed will Stockholm Oceanwolf Genoa NEW! newport - freeport voyage in fall 2007 Cherbourg Toulon Palma de Mallorca — which is pictured above % La Rochelle Oceanwolf 50 save up to World Class Yacht Logistics Class Yacht World Thirty-seven years in the Caribbean. That is like an It is hard to imagine that the But a sea of plenty it is no more — and he and we all regret this. eternity in this growing region that witnessed changes in political status, acquisition of independence and all that goes with the development of so many nations. Wolfgang’s boats have proudly sailed under several flags over that time period, starting of course with the British flag, then the historic “breadfruit” flag of St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and for the nearly 30 years since independence, the new “diamonds” version of the national flag of this country. These are all memo- ries many will envy Wolfgang Olszewski for, but he has earned it with hard work and dedicated services. remain his floating retirement home. He vigorously denies that he will get land-locked some time in the near future. What could be the next step? A cruise ship, a tanker or a freighter? How about a submarine? If he has any ideas, he is not telling. Let’s wait another five years, and time will tell. Actually, if someone came up with the necessary cash (in fact, three years ago a Swiss businessman was ready to do just that, only a very few years too early!), I am sure Wolfgang would not reject an offer. Now, you heard this from me first — just remember, my commission will be a meagre five percent! www.yacht-transport.com counter season Martinique Newport Freeport St. Thomas Port Everglades DYT Representative Martinique Representative DYT 07 15 74 596 + 596 Telephone: [email protected] Although Wolfgang is a sometimes At left, Maresby and Wolfgang on the bridge of anchored in Young Island Cut, 2007 and vegetables in Venezuela at a fraction of the cost in the Caribbean island republics the next. restless traveler and sailor, St. Vincent, right in the middle of the Windward Islands chain, always remains a kind of second homeland. It is here where he started his odyssey as a young 24-year-old captain. His picture album includes priceless scenes of over 30 years ago, with the Villa area of St. Vincent, for example, only showing What other changes has he witnessed over these a very few houses along the shores. many years? He never was much interested in fishing, but he mentioned that in the old days, large flying fish surrounded his boats most of the time. Now they are rare and small. Dolphins used to accompany him, darting around the bow of his vessels. But now these, too, are rarely seen. The only time he sees plenty of fish is when he touches down in Trinidad, witnessing foreign fishing boats empty their indiscriminate daily catches by the tons. So, the sea and the waters and waves are still the same and the islands still beckon for visitors to come and relax and enjoy our shores. , , was both Dockwise Yacht Transport France Transport Dockwise Yacht 856 931 [0] 493 + 33 Telephone: [email protected] anchored in the Seawolfe Oceanwolf . The hull construction of this . The hull construction ! Again, it is a two-crew operation

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Telephone: + 1 954-525-8707 Telephone: [email protected] Dockwise Yacht Transport USA Transport Dockwise Yacht n n n n n Yacht at Rest Yacht Mind at Ease Whenever I see the Wolfgang proceeded, after sailing it across from after sailing it across Wolfgang proceeded, Anyone thinking that Wolfgang was now ready for now ready Wolfgang was thinking that Anyone ker for commercial boat trades, and nobody seems to know as well as he what is available in the region or how to assess the seaworthiness of available vessels for the commercial user. Young Island channel in St. Vincent, I usually make sure to sneak up on her with my sea kayak for a visit over a cup of tea and some special biscuits obtained from the shelves of the richly stocked supermarkets in Martinique. Living on this ocean-worthy craft allows for a special lifestyle: Wolfgang and Maresby can go shopping for delicatessen and other specialties in Martinique one week and stock up on cheap root crops Germany to his beloved second homeland, St. Vincent, beloved second homeland, Germany to his From floor to refurbish her interior. to meticulously finished room and cabin now is cleanly ceiling, every deco- are well and tastefully furnished, and all rooms collected over rated with many of the memorabilia and operating in the more than 37 years of sailing smart-looking white motor Caribbean. Look out for a stack in any of the many launch with a yellow smoke Islands or Venezuela — anchorages of the Windward that’s the boat was such as to allow for stable ferry operations as to allow for stable ferry boat was such board. due to shifting of weights on with little tilt his Venezuelan friend and between himself and been sailing his floating Maresby, Wolfgang has now between Martinique home on the Caribbean waters four years. This time it is and Venezuela for the past although initially he largely for fun and pleasure, charters. As oppor- intended to provide some special his services as a bro- tunities arise, he is now offering wrong and right. He, of course, went shopping again in shopping again of course, went right. He, wrong and refers what he now came up with and this time Europe with a long boat: a 125-foot ferry to as his retirement North Sea passages in Atlantic and history of safe waters — the retirement and “dolce far niente”, probably with a solid probably with far niente”, and “dolce retirement selling the cushion after financial —Continued page from previous JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 44 in Grenada. a bitdifferentasithastodowithlittlecommunity lowed Jonah.Youknowthestories.Butthisstoryis boat fordays,thehugetunathatcouldhaveswal- De BigFish Story E as thischefdemonstrates For seafoodloversinGrenada,Gouyave’sFridaynightfishfryoffersmuchmorethanfriedfish, The caughtdoradowhosematefollowedthe the imaginationofallwhoarewithinearshot. veryone hasagreatfishstorythatcaptivates by Cruisin’Canucks great Fridaynightfestival.Ingaarrangesthesetypes tours daily,rangingfromround-the-islandtothis cruiser net’sWonderWoman,Inga.Shearranges with amaxitaxiridethatisarrangedbythelocal the daywastogoandcheckthisplaceout.Youstart I wastoldhadarebirthinrecentmonths.Theorderof The townofGouyavehasaFridaynightfishfrythat el 473-409-2264 Manager Jean-Yves Rouseré • @:[email protected] • Cell: 473-439-4913 • Tel/FaxOffice: VHF: ch VHF: [email protected] OR EMAIL: OR EMAIL: www.boglesroundhouse.com For moreinformation,For moreinformation, visit: visit: OR EMAIL: OR EMAIL: For moreinformation,For moreinformation, visit: visit: C on ta JYA atSIMBoatyard,Prickly Bay,Grenada c 1 t 6 us

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shu IN SKILLEDHANDS… tt boot. Dat,myfriends,isnofishstory. with wonderfulpeople,foodanddrinkthatischeapto of abiteoutourpocketbooksthananticipated. prise oftheeveningwasthatwholeeventtookless true gorgingthatwashadbyall.Thewonderfulsur- bus’s suspensionoverthehumpswastestamenttoa we weavedbacktoourhomebaseandthecreakof knowing thatwecoulddothisalloveragainnextweek. ing forourscheduledmaxibuswasonlypalatable their noses(well,bumsactually).Thethoughtofleav- and toouramazementabenchappearedrightunder they justlookedlikeneededaplacetositdown, ing party.Ourgalsinthegrouphadamomentwhen ing yourthirstwithlocalrumsandbeer. cross streetssoyouwouldhavenoproblemquench- to thenextbooth.Thebarwasatcenteroftwo cious temptationsinterruptedonlybrieflyforadance ready forconsumption. signs inNorthAmerica.Yetthesewereindeedrealand thought theyweretheplasticversionyouseeonneon And yestheywerebig,solargeinfactthatwefirst and steeredforitasifledbyalighthouse.Lobster. alities celebratingthebountyofseas. place forfolksofallages,colours,beliefsandnation- albeit foroneFridaynighteachweek.Thiswasthe the streetsgavethistownacarnivalatmosphere, chaos. Musicblaringandpeopleactuallydancingin sights ofcooking,preparingandgeneralorganized The smellandsoundswereascaptivatingthe fish imaginable,cookedalmosteverywaypossible. and dispersed.Youcouldhaveyourchoiceofevery there arenoworries. walked towardsthelightoffestival.InGrenada survival radarwouldbebeepinglikecrazyasyou street whichismostlyunlit.Inanyothercountryyour the fattedcow.Thoselobstersdidn’thaveachance. feeding frenzywiththeenthusiasmofpiranhaseeking school ofhungrytouristsdisembarkedtobegintheir Humps” signsignalledourarrivalintoGouyave.The with somehistoryandpointsofinterest.The“Slow ing capitalofGrenada. for thetwistsandturnsfromPricklyBaytofish- Grenadians. Youalmostfeltlikeyouwereinaparade forests andcommunitiesdottedwithwaving hour-long ridewasspicedwithoceanviews,rain- de worldinGouyave”,therewasacollectivecheer.Our fry wasansweredwith“Ithavedebiggestlobstersin the inquiryaboutwhethertheyhadlobsteratfish cessful inbaggingthosecraftycrustaceanssowhen quite vocalduringthejourney.Wehadbeenunsuc- Grenada, myfriends!” entire body,silentlyyellingatus,“Welcometo a customaryGrenadiansmilethatencompassedhis gated aroundtheon-timemaxitaxi.Ourdriverflashed makes everybodyfeelwelcomeanddoesitforfree. of thingsfortheloveGrenadaandcruisers.She le

So thereyouhaveit:aplacethatissafe,fun,filled The snoringthatwasheardbypassingmotoristsas These townsfolkreallyknowhowtothrowawelcom- The nextthreehourswerespentconsumingdeli- Through thegyratingbodieswesightedourprize We enteredthestreetsthatwereaflurryofactivity The entranceintothetownstartswithalongmain Commentary byChris,ourdriver,filledthetime Our littlegroupwasonaspecificmissionand The eagergatheringoffolksdroolingforfishcongre-

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✽ MARTINIQUE 10% rebate for ARC participants if you bring this ad! & Marine Centre & Marine Open 7/7 PADI Dive Shop Barefoot Barefoot Yacht Charters Yacht ✽ Chandlery Raymarine Electronics Raymarine Tel: +596 74 87 55 Fax: +596 74 85 39 ✽ ASA Sailing School for your Boat Restaurant, Bar, dinghy dock Restaurant, Bar, dinghy ✽ All the Supplies, E-mail: [email protected] Spare parts ordering & dodger repairs at great prices & dodger repairs at great http://www.barefootyachts.com ✽ St. Vincent - professional sail, bimini St. Vincent - professional St. Best Full Service Vincent’s & Safety Equipment Tel: (784) 456-9526 Fax: (784) 456-9238 Bareboat & Crewed Charters Bareboat & Crewed Internet Café - Fax and weather service Facility for Visiting Yachtsmen Visiting Facility for Surfshop - Watersports Centre - Boutique Surfshop - Watersports Blue Lagoon, St.Blue Lagoon, Vincent & the Grenadines ✽ email: [email protected] Doyle Barefoot - the only sail repair loft Doyle Barefoot - the only ✽ Port de Plaisance 97290, Le Marin mashed 1/8-inch thick 2 Tablespoons butter (or margarine) 1/4 Cup milk 1 egg, beaten 4 Tablespoons bread crumbs 1/4 Cup all-purpose flour 1 Cup canola oil for frying salt and spices to taste Combine mashed dasheen, butter, milk and egg into Scalloped Dasheen 2 pounds dasheen, peeled, cooked and sliced 1 medium onion, sliced fine 1 bunch chives, chopped small 1 leaf chadon bene, chopped small 1/2 pound cheddar cheese, grated 1 egg 1 1/2 Cups milk salt and spice to taste Layer sliced dasheen in a greased baking pan. Mix egg, milk, salt and spices and pour over the For the Gardeners Dasheen requires moist soil; along an irrigation or First fork the soil to a foot deep and a foot wide. Add Every two months, use a pound of rich phosphate Dasheen is ready to harvest when the leaves turn oil for frying salt and spices to taste strainer or colander Place dasheen slices in a large Dasheen Salad 2 medium onions, chopped 2 cloves of garlic, minced 3 bunches of parsley, chopped 3 bunches of chives, chopped 6 red pimentos, chopped fine 3 Tablespoons canola oil 3 Tablespoons white vinegar boiled and cubed 3 pounds dasheen peeled, 12 green or black olives, sliced thin 1 Cup mayonnaise Combine onions, garlic, parsley, chives and pimen- Dasheen Puffs 2 pounds dasheen, peeled, chunked, boiled and Dasheen Chips sliced about 1 pound dasheen, peeled and a soft mixture. On a smooth flat surface, mix bread- crumbs and flour. With your hands, form balls of the dasheen mixture and roll in the flour-and-bread- crumb mixture. Fry in hot oil until golden brown. Serve hot as a snack or side dish. Sprinkle with some of the onion, chives, chadon bene and cheese. Repeat, alternating layers of sliced dasheen with the onions, chives, chadon bene and cheese. Save some cheese for the final touch. The top layer should be dasheen. dish. Sprinkle with grated cheese. Bake at 350°F for 45 minutes, or until top is golden brown. Serve hot as a main or side dish. drainage ditch is perfect. Many people, like me, grow a few dasheen plants along the front drain to dress it up with a tropical landscaping effect. either a phosphate fertilizer or rotted manure to the bottom of the forked ditch. Dasheen roots or suckers are planted whole, three inches deep, two feet apart in rows four feet apart. fertilizer mix (e.g. 7-30-20) for every hundred square feet. Dasheen does not compete well against weeds during the first three to four months after planting, before its big leaf canopy is formed. The best method of controlling weeds is to pull them by hand. This should not be too difficult as the soil should be moist. Water is the key ingredient to making dasheen bush produce. yellowish and the roots protrude from the ground. This may be in six or eight months depending on location, soil fertility and wetness. Roots left in the ground usually stay in good condition until they start to sprout again. and blanch them. Drain and dry with towels. Sprinkle and blanch them. Drain and salt and cook in hot oil with onion, pepper or garlic and eat while warm as a until golden brown. Drain snack or side dish. tos with the oil and vinegar. Add dasheen cubes, olive slices and mayonnaise. Cool and serve. ) SERVING AT SEA BY SHIRLEY HALL SHIRLEY SEA BY AT SERVING

or canned) Gnocchi is the Italian version of potato dumplings Dasheen Gnocchi ( During one of the few times I sent my husband on a During one of the few times favorite throughout the Dasheen root is a true cooked to remove the Dasheen bush should be well of one or more large The underground roots consist Dasheen is a belly-filling starch with 250 calories

1 pound dasheen, peeled and chunked 1 pound sweet potato, peeled and chunked 2 Tablespoons olive oil 2 Tablespoons fresh basil, chopped small 1 bunch chadon bene, chopped small 2 cloves of garlic, minced 1 medium onion, chopped very fine 1 Cup dry white wine 2 medium ripe tomatoes, chopped small 1/2 Cup prepared marinara sauce (homemade salt and pepper to taste 2 large eggs, beaten 1/2 teaspoon grated nutmeg 1 Cup baker’s flour 1 Cup grated Parmesan, Romano or cheddar cheese Boil dasheen and sweet potato chunks in salted TO MAKE THE SAUCE: In a large skillet heat the oil, TO MAKE THE GNOCCHI: Drain the dasheen and Bring a pot of slightly salted water to boil. Carefully DASHEEN solo market trip to do the vegetable buying, he solo market trip to do became slightly purple returned with a tuber that a type of island-grown root when boiled. He said it was called dasheen. perhaps best known for its Caribbean, but the plant is called dasheen bush or broad heart-shaped leaves, leaf from this root that callaloo. I realized it was the made my favorite callaloo soup! use in soup, the leaves oxalic acid. In addition to their similar to spinach. The can be cooked as greens peeled and boiled, having “stock” or leaf stem can be Also the blanched young a taste similar to asparagus. the plant in heavy shade shoots obtained by growing supply a tender vegetable (usually under bananas) that of mushrooms. having a flavor somewhat like called a “mammy”), which central heads (sometimes may grow up to eight pounds. Around the dasheen head is a cluster of smaller roots, usually two to four ounces in size. Like potatoes, dasheen roots can be boiled, steamed or baked, used to thicken soups and stews, or fried to make chips. per Cup. It is low in fat, with no cholesterol and one gram of fiber, but 60 grams of carbohydrates. water until tender, approximately 30 minutes. adding basil, chadon bene, garlic and onions; cook for about three minutes. Lower heat and add the white wine, tomatoes and marinara sauce. Simmer for one minute. Then season with salt and pepper to your taste. sweet potatoes before passing them through a ricer into a large bowl. Add eggs and nutmeg and season to your taste. Add flour slowly and evenly, stirring constantly to prevent lumps. spoon the dasheen mixture into balls as neatly as possible. Drop balls one by one into the boiling water. Cook these dasheen gnocchi balls until they float, about five minutes. Drain and add to the skillet with the sauce. Serve warm with grated Parmesan, Romano, or cheddar cheese as a main dish. JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46 cookies andbreads,orspritzitonyoursalads. apples fromturningbrown.Youcanaddittosauces, juice keepsfruitssuchasmangoes,bananasand good asanymadefromFloridaKeylimes.Sourorange example, wildsourorangesyieldapieeverybitas nary recipeshasbeenworkingjustfine,too.For wild sourorangejuiceforlemonorlimeinordi- nades andsaladdressings.Infact,sofar,substituting that I’vetriedsofar.Itiscertainlyjustrightformari- recipes fromtheInternetthatcallforsourorangejuice And hey,itworksasaperfectsubstituteforallthe liqueurs. Let’sjustcallthisoneawildsourorange. Seville orBergamotusedformarmaladesand smooth-skinned, fancy-named,probably-pedigreed I’d betonsourorange,thoughit’sdefinitelynotthe might beisstillunclear.Lime?Lemon?Sourorange? believe thereis. use. AndthankstoideasfromtheInternet,Inow going towasteseemsashame.Surelythereissome market. Buttheveryideaofaluscious-smellingcitrus locals, neverevengettingtoshowitsuglywartsat with theselimes?”IaskJudy. him land,comerightup.” plant thistreehere?” in thesegorgeousislands.“Judy,”saysI,“didyou homesteaders thatarrivealmostdailytomakeahome way withplants,pottingthem,sellingthemtothenew the tropicalair.Judyisknowninthesepartsforher hillside, prettytreeslendingthecrispsmelloflimesto is anotherdelightthisfinemorning. laugh butJudydoesn’tbothertoresistandhergiggle cross. Tobegrabshisownmouthtocoverurge and yikes!Mymouthturnswrongsideout,myeyes pale greenjuicedribblesdownmyelbow.Itakealick ings foraMargarita.Isqueezeoneofthehalvesand mouth waters,makingmewishfortherestoffix- hands methetwojuicyhalves.Onesniffandmy from thetree,whacksitopenwithhismacheteand oranges, thesebaseball-sizeorbsarecoveredwithwarts. much largerandnotgreenatall.Roundorangelike delightful Bocatoreña,callsthemlimesthoughtheyare WILD SOURORANGES? Just exactlywhatsortofcitrusfruitthisspecimen Apparently thispitiful-lookingfruitisshunnedby “We doesn’teatdem,”Judysays.“Decowsdoes.” Yeah, mykindofgardening!“So,whatdoyoumake “Oh, no!”saysshe.“Mejus’fireshimoffandwhere There aredozensofthesetreesgrowingaboutthe Judy’s husband,Tobe,plucksalumpyspecimen T ugliest citrusfruitsI’veeverseen.JudyGreene,a south ofBocasdelToroinPanama,Ispotthe romping aboutapasturecarvedfromjunglejust by MaryHeckrotte • gasstation • tel+fax+internet • water/ice/laundry • deepwaterstern-toberth gas station:(+)596 596661730 POINTE DU BOUT, MARTINIQUE RESTAURANT e-mail: [email protected] Open 7/7VHF:16/68 CUSTOMS CLEARANCE Tel: (+) 596660545 DOCK, BAR WHACHA GONNADOWITHALLTHOSE… 14˚33N -61˚03W & With happygrinsallaround,Joellentookhomeonly Lemonade” andbroughtjugsofittothenextpotluck. Voila! Shedubbedherdeliciousproduct“Hard fermented. Shepouredabitovericecubesandsipped. Oops! Buttoherdelight,inabsencethejuicehad while shewasawayfromhomeforacoupleofweeks. jar ofjuiceasideonthecabinetandforgotaboutit to sweetenthejuiceenoughforherliking,sheset make lemonadefromthesewildsouroranges.Unable experimenting withlocalproduce,thoughtshecould juicer orsqueezetheorangesbyhand. enough onceyou’vesqueezedthejuice.Justuseany you’re probablyusedto.Butthey’llstrainouteasily uncultivated, theseorangeshavemoreseedsthan will betheonesthathavemostjuiceinside.Being fruits thatfeelespeciallyheavyfortheirsizeasthey than sourest.Butdotrytopickthe — afterall,youcan’tgetmoresour greenish tobrightorangeisquitefine fruit youpick,anyshadefromstill shoes! Don’tworryaboutwhatcolor pierce thesolesofmyknock-offCroc very wickedthorns.Thethornseven pretty, leafytreeshidehalf-inchlong, you cancarry.Butbecareful:these trouble gettingpermissiontopickall with uglyoranges,you’lllikelyhaveno your particularprescription. tor ifyoushouldavoidcitrusjuiceswith effect. Youmightwanttoaskyourdoc- wild sourorangemayhavethesame all grapefruitjuiceforpatients.This River grapefruit,thelocalhospitalbans Florida, forexample,thehomeofIndian absorbed byyourbody.InTitusville, fruits affectthewaymedicationsare You gettheidea. sweet o.j.plusonepartlemonorlime. juice. Oryoucangetbywithonepart regular orangejuiceandgrapefruit travels, youcansubstituteequalparts find wildsourorangesinyourtropical smells wonderful. with sourorangejuiceandrind—it even rubbedmywoodencuttingboard on meatorfishbeforecooking.AndI Squeeze asourorangehalfandrubit My friendJoellenJeffers,aladyalwaysopento If youdospottreesoverburdened One precaution,though:somecitrus Now ifyou’renotluckyenoughto Happy Hour! salt, andabottleoftequila,you’llbewelcomeatany if youtakeasackofwildsouroranges,shaker rim ofyourglasswithacutpiece,too.Andnodoubt, and colaoravodkatonic—don’tforgettorubthe nicely forvinegar—andthesewildonesdothejobwell. however, welearnthatsourorangessubstitutequite suggestion madebythenativesofYucatanarea, predisposition whichsomeofussurelylack.)Froma (Appreciation ofthisconcoctionmayrequireagenetic half andcoatthemwithsaltahotchilipepperpaste. Lemonade isnowafavoriteon the tasteismostrefreshingatcocktailtimeandHard Though Ican’treallytellthereisany“alcohol”effect, empty jugs.Andthankfully,shesharedherrecipe. Squeeze alittlesourorangejuiceintoyournextrum In Mexico,saysonewebsite,folkscutsourorangesin —Continued onnextpage —Continued Camryka . JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47 RoomMate BilgeBuster 401.732.6770 www.quantumpureaire.com water for 10 minutes Sour Orange Pie 8 ounces cream cheese, softened 1/3 Cup sugar juice 4 Tablespoons sour orange whipped topping mix) 1 carton Cool Whip (or prepared 1 graham cracker crust and 6 ounces of Cool Mix cream cheese, sugar, juice, Sour Orange Bread 1 Cup sugar 2 Tablespoons sour orange juice 6 Tablespoons milk 2 eggs 6 Tablespoons butter, softened 1 1/2 Cups flour 1/2 teaspoon baking powder 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1/4 teaspoon salt 1 Tablespoon sour orange peel, grated 1/2 Cup sugar 1/4 Cup sour orange juice In a small mixing bowl, combine flour, baking In a small bowl, make a glaze of 1/2 Cup sugar and 1 Cup sour orange juice 1 Cup sour orange 1 onion, thinly sliced pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground black Pinch cayenne 1 clove garlic, crushed and minced 1 hot pepper, seeds removed 2 Tablespoons minced parsley, 2 Tablespoons minced cilantro and pat dry with paper Remove fish from salt water 2 garlic cloves, crushed cloves, 2 garlic fresh ginger freshly grated 1 teaspoon seeds cumin 1/2 teaspoon coriander 1/2 teaspoon turmeric 1/4 teaspoon pepper ground black freshly 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 1/8 teaspoon cloves Pinch ground chicken, until smooth. Marinate Mix all ingredients Seviche Sour Orange in salt white fish fillets, soaked 1 pound cleaned Eliminate Mold, Mildew & Odor Whip. Spread into graham cracker crust. Put remaining Cool Whip on top of pie. Refrigerate for at least 3 hours before serving. powder, baking soda, salt, and orange peel. In a large bowl, combine sugar, 2 Tablespoons juice, milk, eggs, and butter. Stir dry ingredients into wet ingredients. Pour batter into a greased 9” x 5” loaf pan. Bake at 350°F for about 1 hour or until a tooth- pick inserted in the center comes out clean. Let cool slightly in pan on a rack. Remove from pan. Put bread on a piece of foil. 1/4 Cup juice. Prick bread over the top with a small skewer then pour glaze over all. Let cool completely then slice to serve. Good with cream cheese. towels. Cut fish into bite-sized pieces and place on a towels. Cut fish into bite-sized In a small bowl, mix platter. Cover with sliced onions. pour over fish. Place in remaining ingredients and before serving. refrigerator for at least 4 hours pork, or beef for 1 hour then grill, stir-fry, or broil. for 1 hour then grill, stir-fry, pork, or beef as it cooks. can be used to baste meat Extra marinade fax: 401.732.6772 [email protected] Quantum Pure Aire USCG Labs Approved Maintenance Free 30 Day Money Back Guarantee

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number of BOATERS BOATERS of number Join the growing growing the Join Breathe Easy Sour Orange Chimichurri 2 Cups parsley, stemmed, minced 10 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed 1 Cup olive oil 3 Tablespoons sour orange juice 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes 1 teaspoon salt Freshly ground black pepper to taste Combine all ingredients. Put in a covered glass jar Tandoori Marinade 1/2 Cup coconut milk 4 Tablespoons sour orange juice 2 teaspoon salt Put all except sour cream in a small saucepan over saucepan small in a cream sour all except Put French Dressing Sour Orange orange juice 1/4 Cup sour mustard 1 teaspoon dry 1 teaspoon paprika salt 1 teaspoon seasoned grated onion 1 Tablespoon seed 1 teaspoon celery 1/2 Cup sugar 1 Cup olive oil blender mix all except olive oil. With In a blender, and keep refrigerated. Can be used right away but is best after 2 days. Will keep several weeks. Great on steaks and other meats. medium heat. Cook and stir until mixture thickens and stir until heat. Cook medium cool 15 minutes. heat and let Remove from slightly. and container Put into a covered sour cream. Stir in fruit salad. serving over chill before in the oil. Store in a cov- running, very slowly dribble ered jar. Serve with green salads. s Mustique ’ and Choice Meats Sunday: 9am to 12pm in the Grenadines.

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Corea THE FOOD STORE Your #1 Choice for Provisioning Homemade Cuban Mojo Sauce Homemade Cuban cloves crushed 3 large heads of garlic, peeled, 2 teaspoons salt black pepper 1 teaspoon freshly ground 1 1/2 Cups sour orange juice 1 Cup minced onion leaves 2 teaspoons dried oregano 3 Tablespoons minced parsley 1 Cup olive oil oil well, preferably in Mix all ingredients except olive Wild Sour Orange Marinade 1 1/2 Cups sour orange juice 1/2 Cup olive oil 4 cloves garlic, crushed 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper 3 bay leaves, crushed 3 Tablespoons minced cilantro Mix all ingredients in a plastic Zip-loc Bag. Add Wild Orange Marinade for Fish and Seafood 1/4 Cup sour orange juice 1 teaspoon grated sour orange peel 1 Tablespoon olive oil 1 Tablespoon crushed tarragon Salt to taste Ground white pepper to taste Combine all and pour over fish or seafood. Marinate Wild Orange and Honey Fruit Salad Dressing 1 egg slightly beaten 1/2 Cup sour orange juice 1/2 Cup honey 1/2 teaspoon salt Freshly ground white pepper 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger 1 Cup sour cream Joellen’s Hard Lemonade Joellen’s water 2 1/2 Cups sugar 1 1/4 Cups orange peel grated sour 2 teaspoons juice sour orange 1 1/4 Cups medium sugar into a saucepan over Put water and a blender. Set aside at room temperature for at least a blender. Set aside at room over medium heat, 30 minutes. In a small saucepan (very hot!). Remove the bring olive oil to about 280°F in the garlic and juice saucepan from the heat. Whisk as the oil may fizzle and mixture. Be very cautious to medium heat and splatter. Return the saucepan Taste and add more salt or bring to a full rolling boil. from heat and let cool to pepper if desired. Remove a glass jar in the refriger- room temperature. Store in using. Good on almost any ator and shake well before fish or seafood. chicken, lamb, pork, beef, pork, beef or chicken and marinate for one or two hours. Meat can then be grilled or broiled. for 30 minutes. Grill or broil. high heat. Bring to a boil, stirring until sugar dis- to a boil, stirring until high heat. Bring minutes. Add from heat and let cool 20 solves. Remove and cover Pour into a jar or bottle peel and juice. weeks (or so) at room temperature for 2 loosely. Let sit don’t put a over ice cubes. Be sure you and then serve may cause container as fermentation tight lid on the to break. the container —Continued page from previous JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 48

JONAS BROWNE &HUBBARD(G’da.)Ltd. Hubbard’s The FoodFairhasitalland alotmore. or afineselectionofliquorandwine, or fruits,toiletries,householdgoods, products, meat,freshvegetables Whether it’scannedgoods,dairy conveniently locatedsupermarkets. best pricesinGrenadaatourtwo on thewidestselectionand Stock Up over 7DaysinBequia Shore BasedCourses Day Skipperand Starts Monday18thJune2007 young streetst.georges + rare Jewelry, Wooden-Ware&Hammocks e-mail: [email protected] interior design exotic arts+crafts Yachtmaster, Instructor Yachtmaster (784) 457-3623 John Cawsey Cost 1900$EC Tel: (473)444-4573 until 7:00pm Friday &Saturday 9 amto5:30pm Monday -Thursday Grand Anse: Tel: (473)440-2588 1:00 pm Saturday until Friday until8:45pm 8 amto5:30pm Monday -Thursday The Carenage: grenada

tel: 440-2310 Dear Dear S/Y Mismo Stevie Morris on myway. issue wasagiftfromthegods,readableandfun,Iam the Bartlett. HersisthefirstnameIlookforwhenopen which the “cruising”community seemedtoconclude such asmanymonths ofdiscussioncopyrightsin not aparticularissue. Includingmemorablemoments ple jumpingtoconclusions.” TheForumingeneral, read theForum:“Ain’t nothinglikethesoundofpeo- generalized, which occasionally comestomindasI Dear Forum, message toavoidthishappening.Thanks. include yournameontheletteraswell as thee-mail name. Whensendinglettersasattachments, please Worked againstIndians,whynotbareboaters? out, liketheoldwagontrainsof WildWest. lem, theycouldraftupinabigcirclewith bowsfacing except ifabunchofcruisersreallyfeelthis isaprob- which mightbeusedasevidenceatalaterdate. Remember torecordthewholeincidentinyourship’slog, on overaftertheaccidentandgeteverythingyouneed. until morning,whentheymayhavemovedon.Goright ship’s log.Iftheydohityou,notwaittogetthedetails you agoodcaseinlaw,soentertheconversationyour You cannotforcethemtomovebuttellingdoesgive anchored tooclose,itisyourobligationtotellthemso. wait tillitisdone.Atthispointifyoufeeltheyhave anchor untiltheydo,soyoureallyhavenochoicebutto boat muchmorevisible. cockpit withalight,whichwillmakeyour likely tocauseaccidents.Youcanalsolightupyour which, likebeingyelledat,isverydistracting,and essary visibility.YoushouldNOThaveastrobe as lawrequires,showanall-roundlightofthenec- with thelessexperienced. experienced skipperandalmostensureanaccident away frommyboat!”Itwillendupconfusingevenan here!”, “Whatdoyouthinkaredoing?”or“Get ing boatandyellingthingslike,“Youcan’tanchor really dumbstufflikeshininglightsattheapproach- it isimperativethoseonanchoredyachtsdon’tdo night andtakesalotofconcentration.Forthisreason she doesitright.)Itistruethathardertoseeat it up,whichisperfectlylegitimate.(Asanchoring,if in amongtheanchoredyachtsandbegoingtopick skipper intendstoanchor.Shemayhaveamooring you cannotknowwhetheranapproachingyacht’s sense forthearrivingboattoanchoroutsidefleet, time. Whileyoumightthinkitwouldmakemore fishermen andothernavigatorshavetodothisallthe have youarrivinglate.)Furthermore,professional per, Ioftendidso.(Charterschedulessometimes because inthedaysIwasaprofessionalcharterskip- her waysafelythroughananchorage.Iknow, see boatsatnightand,ifshetakeshertime,thread nothing youcandotostopthem.Agoodsailor and evenmoresowhendamageisdone,there when someonenavigatesclosebytheiryachtatnight, bor atnight“can’tseetheanchoredboats.” trator?” Shealsosaysthattheskipperenteringahar- the caseofanaccident,“Howtogetholdperpe- yachts iftheywanttoanchortoocloseyou?”Andin among anchoredboats.Sheasks,“Howtowardoff bringing boatsintoananchorageatnightandpassing Compass Congratulations onfindingwriterslikeJulia My sailingmentorhadanexpression that Ihave Editor’s note:Weapologizeforlosingthis writer’s Apart fromthatIdonotknowwhattosuggest, You cannotknowwheresomeoneplanstodropan To lessenthelikelihoodofgettinghityoushould, While Isympathizewiththosewhofeelanxious In “AnchoringHabitsandQuestions”(April Compass Compass Compass ), AngelikaGruenercriticizedskippersfor Readers’ Forum and herarticleonLuperonintheApril , , approved ofbythecoastguard isasemergencylights. once aminute,not asecondorhalfsecond. the lightisshowingall thetime:notonceanhour, while atanchornight. Iwouldthinkthismeansthat requires youhaveanall-roundwhite lightvisible Caribbean for? flashing strobesreallywhatyoucame tothe Cays onamoonlightnightwithonehundred brightly night. Istherenopoetryinyoursoul?Are theTobago totally ruintheatmosphereofabeautiful Caribbean tracting andconfusing. anchored boatswithstrobelightswould beverydis- strobes. Tryingtonavigatethrough afieldof have finditamongaforestofyachtswithflashing light atoneendofapairleadingmarkswhenyou lights. Imaginetryingtopickupthequickflashing they makegoodemergencylights—andlousyanchor attention; thatiswhattheyarefor,andwhy Laura, butyouarebarkingupthewrongstrobehere.” there willbethingsthatgobumpinthenight.Sorry the betterothersailorscanseethem,lesslikely lights: “Anchorlightsaretheretoattractattentionand Sargent’s complaintaboutstrobesusedasanchor flashing anchorlight)wroteinresponsetoLaura per of Dear Tortola, BVI Captain ThomasWarner he wasdrowning!” with thestrobe?Weall(commercialshipping)thought the timeofourpassageheasked,“Whowasnitwit Sea roughlythesametimewehad,andonlearning the captainofagrainshipwhichhadpassedup approach tolighting.Wewereentertainedatdinnerby of closepassesallweeklong,despitetheirinnovative Sudan, thecrewofthatvesseltoldharrowingstories commercial shipspassingby.OnarrivalatPort with amastheadstrobegoingallnight,towardoffthe a lotofshippingintheRedSea,andoneboatsailed up theRedSeawithagroupofotheryachts.Thereis nal, sortoflikeflyingaflagupsidedown. required isasomewhatarcanemodeofdistresssig- have themon.Infact,havingonwhennot the vesselisnotunderway,or“running”,itneed lights alsohaveaspecificpurposeinColRegs,andif find avesselafternightofpartyingashore.Running firing offaflaretoseewhichwaythewindisblowing. value ofastrobewhenitistrulyneeded.Sortlike use; ithasotheruses,andcasualusewilldegradethe Therefore, astrobelightisnotappropriateforcasual in amanoverboardorotheremergencysituation. push thelimitbecausenormaluseforastrobeis tion tonormalanchorlights,butflashingstrobes will beavarietyoflightsinmostanchoragesaddi- Using somecommonsense,captainsrealizethatthere for avesselatanchorareprovidedinColRegs. Dear Yacht Camille Peter Boardman what hisboatis. brighter bulb,butnever,nevertrytoconfuseusas I thinkheisbeingtotallyirresponsible. north cardinalbuoy(continuouswhiteflashing),then (special mark). green flashing(channelbuoy),andyellow ing usedasanchorlights:redflashing(channelbuoy), light, Iknowitisananchoredboat. light system.If,forinstance,Iseeastationarywhite total chaos.Let’ssticktotheinternationallyagreed lights toputonourboats(ashehas)therewouldbe night —buttowhat?Ifwealldecidedarbitrarilywhat regarding flashinganchorlights. Dear S/Y Ambia Hutch One Love, then, inmyopinionyouarea(n)______(yourchoice).” “no”, I’llaffirmthatitisso.If“yes”,Iwilladd,“Well, being flashedbyyourstrobeisyours?”Iftheyanswer mine istoask,“Areyouawarethattheonlyboatnot to theoneDoylesuggests(“Whatisemergency?”), who usestrobesasanchorlights.Asanalternateline Laura Sargent’sMarchletter,regardingnon-thinkers where itischeapertostealit. cyber-savvy oftoday,isalmostalways.Orincases it ismoreconvenientthanbuying—which,forthe that stealingcopyrightmaterialisokayincaseswhere The onlythingIcan findflashinglightsonyachts Added tothistherearelegalconsiderations. Thelaw Then thereisjusttheaestheticconsideration; they Derrick, Idonotthinksheis.Yes,strobescatch Derrick Harveyof A quicknoteinresponsetoabytheskip- In closing,someyearsagoIwassailingwithfamily Similarly, theuseofrunninglightstomoreeasily If heisworriedaboutbeingseenshouldputina If MisterHarveywishestodisguisehisboatasa On mywayherefromGreeceIhaveseenthefollow- Of courselightsaretheretoattractattentionat In replytoDerrickHarvey’sletterintheMayissue Thanks forDoyle’sletterintheAprilissue,and Compass Compass Compass Aldebaran II , , , , DerrickHarvey.Theproperlights Aldebaran II —Continued onnextpage —Continued (the boatwiththe JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 49 business insurance SAIL cell: 340-513-3147 cell: 340-513-3147 POWER e-mail: [email protected] e-mail: 340-0714-6271 office: it is too late. it is too www.maritimeyachtsales.com Fax: 340-777-6272 Marine Fax DM Street or unsatisfactorily settled, Then, if the claim is denied Insurance www.street-iolaire.com insurance is until you have a claim. have you is until insurance The insurance business has changed. business has insurance The insurance,no good cheap is but there There is good insurance,There is cheap there Rather, can only say, broker the honest No longer can brokers talk of low rates. talk of low No longer can brokers insurance.You never know how good your how know never insurance.You “I’ll do my best to minimize your increase!” your minimize best to “I’ll do my settlement record cannot be beat. Iolaire Enterprises (353) 28 - 33927 or e-mail: [email protected] I have been in the 40 years, 36 with Lloyds, and my claims 47 Stevens, 1981 1979 46 Morgan CC, Oceanis , 1994 44 Beneteau 1978 44 CSY walkover, 1995 42 Hunter Passage, 42 Catalina MKII, 1996 $ 185,000 39 Stevens, 1981 38 Island Packet, 2000 $ 79,000 37 C&C, 1985 $ 109,000 36 Frers, 198535 Island Packet, 1991 $ 159,000 $ 210,000 35 Morgan, 1971 $ 255,000 198834 Tartan, 32 Gulf Pilot House, 1966 $ 121,900 32 Bristol, 1976 $ 29,000 55 Cheoy Lee LRC, 1980 $ 46,000 198050 Marine Trader, $ 32,000 2003 45 Silverton MY, $ 115,000 34 Mainship, 1979 Coastal, 1990 33 Wellcraft $ 48,600 27 Grady White, 1997 $ 48,500 198526 Fortier w/cuddy, $ 415,000 $ 329,000 $ 49,000 $ 50,000 $ 149,000 $ 22,000 $ 59,900 $ 42,000 $ 40,000 Independent Boatyard St. Thomas, USVI Boatyard St. Thomas, Independent

BELA ALMEIDA they are suitably if —Continued on next page , Compass My partner and I read with interest the complaint That said about Jolly Harbour, a week later we went We love Antigua but several conversations with oth- The only other place I came out feeling I had been I get sick sometimes when I read all the pontificat- when I read all the I get sick sometimes in May’s Readers’ Forum about the treatment received at the Immigration, Customs, and Port Control Office at Jolly Harbour, Antigua. We too went in to the Immigration office with a smile and greeting to be met by the most officious and rude behaviour ever experienced in all the islands we have checked in to. The female in charge seemed to delight in throwing her weight around, smirking glances to her male colleague and demanding full subservience from us lowly visitors. She was completely unfriendly and unprofessional in her behaviour. While we respect that officials have a job to do (I had a 25-year career in the Civil Service Public Sector, dealing with Customer Service), this lady was not interested in pleasantries. We left her office feeling that we had committed some crime by visiting Antigua and it was only at her personal discretion we were not going to be impounded! As we then had to wait for over an hour for the Customs Officer to turn up, we had plenty of opportunity to watch her behaviour with everyone else and it made interesting viewing. Port Control was a relief and the ladies in that office were professional and very pleasant. to the airport to collect a friend who was visiting us for two weeks. She came out of the airport in tears and totally stressed with an Immigration lady in tow, who seemed to have a problem recognizing that our friend would be staying on our sailing yacht for the entire trip! ers have shown we are becoming a little bit nervous and tired of the way visitors are treated by some Immigration officers and it should be brought to the attention of the Tourist Board. The French islands are a delight to check in to; very courteous, polite and paper-efficient. Oh yes, and they don’t have a radio or television on! How unprofessional is that? slapped across the face with a wet fish was in Portsmouth, Dominica, where the Immigration Officer made a huge thing of the fact that he thought (bless him) I had aged — badly — since my passport was issued eight years ago. My partner tried to sweeten things by saying to me that I was even more beautiful, but the damage was done and I'm now convinced I need a face lift! Dear with a bowline under everybody else’s line so they can they line so else’s everybody under a bowline with refas- about without worrying in their dinghy go off think. idea!” you all a wonderful my line. “What tening have to dinghy go, I to let my I come back Then, when you mine. I will tell are tied over the lines that untie all in tie all the lines future. I will will do in the what I back to my that I will laugh all the way such a mess can do is cut the lines so that all you boat. I will splice back and ask will suggest that you all go them. Then I a dinghy. is the correct way to tie your fathers what should be the supposed cruisers ing about how don’t even meanderings when they defended in their the latest rules of seamanship. I think know the basic going to play who declared that he was was that guy matter that it in enclosed harbours, no with his strobe These people should be annoyed other harbour users. to Daddy and then ask made to take their toys back — him if they can play with them qualified to do so. able or, more to the point, I am as always, Mike East S/Y Nostromo NOTE: North Cardinal’s characteristics, quick flashing white. NOTE: North Cardinal’s characteristics, , Compass I will tell you all about something a lot of you don’t For example, I tie my dinghy up at a dinghy dock I also think the next thing he should do is put strobe We all know big ships don’t keep a good enough If, God forbid, he is still not seen and he gets run Unfortunately he probably won’t get picked up We will now need to give some thought to what we We don’t want any confusion out there, it’s danger- PS. What about flashing headlights on the car at PPS. Now, about Union Jacks being used as ensigns…. However, even if you can do this, keep in mind that keep in mind can do this, even if you However, at night about flashing anchor lights I read the letter flashing anchor light is I think the yachty with the know about. It is called courtesy. Hello, all you supposed cruisers, lights in his port and starboard navigation lights. This should make him more visible at night; while under- way with the boat painted day-glo orange (all dark colours such as blue, green, etcetera, should be banned by law — not visible enough at night), he will be very easy to spot. Just in case the flashing of the navigation lights gets in sync with the wave motion — i.e. flashing when the boat is in a trough — a clever flash-frequency unit could be installed to adjust the flash rate to counteract this, modern electronics being so good. lookout for small boats. Watch keepers drinking coffee or reading, never looking to the sides or behind. Perhaps our intrepid sailor should do his best to cross just ahead of all tankers, cruise liners, coast- ers and trawlers just to make sure they see him. Maybe sounding his horn in short blasts to be on the safe side — don’t think short blasts mean anything nowadays. down he can rest assured that while he is in his day- glo orange liferaft with a flashing strobe light on top he will be as visible as he can be! because we will all think that’s the guy at anchor with a strobe light. can use for the lights on cardinal buoys and port and starboard buoys. It might be best remove the flashing lights and fixed lights (these lights appear to be flashing when they dip below the wave crest) or they might get confused with boats at anchor or boats under way. Probably best not to have lights on buoys at all, too confusing. ous enough. For safety’s sake we all need to be on the same page at all times. night or a bank of flashing orange lights on top or even flashing blue light with siren. Lots of room for improvement here, don’t you think? Paul Frost Silver Ankh Dear there are plenty of things you can legally do, but the legally do, but you can plenty of things there are you don’t. better off if world is Chris Doyle Ti Kanot written a agree — the collision regs were and I have to took the and maybe it’s time the yachters long time ago guidelines. showed the way for some new initiative and sort of thing governing boards for this In general, the any idea of by old fuddy-duddies without are controlled can be done with it. modern technology or what be seen at night. We all not trying hard enough to visible than a steady all- know a flashing light is more take it to the next level round anchor light. He must orange; that will make him and paint his boat day-glo as visible as he can be. —Continued page from previous tell tell us and different, please something If you know it. reference for us the JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 50 to findquietanchoragesfarfrom“TheMaddingCrowd”. are notdescribedintheotherguides.Thisenablesthem anchorages thatarepopularwithbareboaters. pictures anddescribehotels,bars,restaurants describe ALLtheanchoragesinEasternCaribbean. places andhistory.Street’sGuidesaretheonlyonesthat piloting directions,plusinterestinganecdotesofpeople, ARE MOREECONOMICAL! www.iUniverse.com andwww.seabooks.com Real sailorscircleinStreet’sGuidetheanchoragesthat Real sailorsalsobuytheotherguides,thathavepretty Real sailorsuseStreet’sGuidesforinter-islandandharbor experience intheCaribbean,series’fourvolumes BUY STREET’SGUIDES cover theEasternCaribbeanfromPuertoRico at bookshopsandchandleries,orfrom Written byanauthorwith50yearsofsailing STREET’S GUIDES the coastofVenezuelatoABCs. Street’s Guidesareavailable REAL SAILORS down throughtheislandsand Dear CC which Barbuda MarineAssociation,forhisresponse, Dear Name WithheldbyRequest fies me. frompreviouspage —Continued as however, Iamnotconvincedthatapublicforumsuch know ofthemsothatcorrectiveactioncanbetaken, this typeofbehaviourandtheGovernmentneedsto totally disproportionatetotheincidents. the damagedonetotouristindustryofAntiguais good experiences.Bypublishingafewbadexperiences each yearwithoutincidentbutoneneverhearsoftheir second letter.TensofthousandspeoplevisitAntigua this otherwisebeautifulcountry. the futureandhavenotbeenentirelydeterredfrom that theyintendtoreturnAntiguaatsometimein future discrimination.Oneistopresumefromthis have withheldtheirnamesonthegroundsoffeared out oftheseincidents,firstly,bothcorrespondents Immigration Serviceishighontheagenda. the PrimeMinisterandofTourism.The is holdingayachtingsymposiumwhichwillinclude appropriate authorities.On16thMaytheGovernment respondents. Ihaveforwardedtheircomplainttothe the Antigua&BarbudaMarineAssociationtoyourcor- Jolly Harbour. Dear Sally Best regards, campers” regularlyvisitingAntigua,aselsewhere. a clearindicationthattherearegreatnumbers of“happy and RegattaNews,forexample)provideour readerswith pages (seeotheritemsinthismonth’sInfo&Updates Symposium” inthisissue’sInfo&Updates,page5. taken inAntigua.(See“AntiguaHoldsYachting address thesituation—suchasthosecurrentlybeing with reliablenewsaboutanystepsbeingtakento the attentionofarelevantauthority,addingbalance a first-handreportandthen,bybringingtheto Compass of “Chinesewhispers”exaggeratingtheoriginalversion. internet andwordofmouth,oftenwithacertainamount ately circulatedontheyachts’“grapevine”viaradio, Word ofanynegativeincidentisinevitablyandimmedi- our goalistoimprovethesituationacrossboard. the countryinquestion.Oncontrary,longrun initely notourintentiontodamagethetouristindustryof national government,bypublishingsuchlettersitisdef- about anegativeexperiencewithrepresentativeof about it—isexpected.Andwhenreaderswritetous when clearingintoacountrytendnottowriteus who receiveacourteousandprofessionalreception have nothadthissortofbadexperience.Butpeople vis-à-vis thegreaternumberofvisitorstoAntiguawho assistance withbuildinghercustomerserviceskills. officer inquestioncanbeidentifiedand,onehopes,given times anddatesoftheincidentssothatImmigration writer oftheletterabovehassubsequentlyprovided even “warmer”welcomethenexttime.However, question, incaseshemightbeonhandtogivetheman not havetheirnamesknowntotheImmigrationofficerin enjoy Antiguaandintendtorevisit,butwouldprefer appropriate authorities. our correspondents’concernstotheattentionof Dear John, Antigua &BarbudaMarineAssociation John J.Duffy,President Yours sincerely, apologies. cials who,Iamsure,willwishtoextendtheirown will happilyplacethemintouchwithGovernmentoffi- problem experiencedbyaverysmallminority. view ofwhatisundoubtedlyaproblembutonly selection ofgoodexperiences.Itgivesanunbalanced views unlesstheyarecounteredbyarepresentative hour” and amps/hour.Theuseful unitsforonboard time, energyispower multipliedbytime. and speed.Justas distanceisspeedmultipliedby Confusing energyand powerislikeconfusingdistance confusion aboutthe terms“energy”and“power”. your Mayissue.Thisotherwiseusefularticle isfullof “Managing YourOnboardPower”byGlyn Johnsonin onboard electricalsupply,Ilookedforward toreading We askedJohnDuffy,PresidentoftheAntigua& Please leavemynameoutofitasthatwomanterri- As Isaidinmypreviousletter,thereisnoexcusefor Secondly, Iwouldrequestthatyoudonotpublishthis There aretwothingsIwouldliketoaddressarising Once again,pleaseextendmyapologiesonbehalfof I amsorrytohearofanothersimilarincidentat Also, theongoinginclusionofpositivereportsinour We understandyourconcernsaboutthesetwoletters It doesindeedsoundasthoughbothletterwriters Thank youforyourpromptresponseandbringing If yourcorrespondentscaretocontactmedirectI The articlerepeatedly usestheterms“ampsper As acruisercontinuallytryingtomanage my Compass Compass, Compass Compass follows. is ofteninthepositionofbeingabletopublish is agoodmediuminwhichtoairthese , Readers, ) the showing thehardworkdonebyourpeople inthepast to traveltheplacestheysee. sites onlandandseawhichexcitethereader’stowish fect English,thepicturesarefineshotstakenoflocal hands (likeothersIhaveseen),thewordingisinper- ed on,theinkdoesnotcomeoutondearreader’s best Ihaveeverseen. should go: responds.) Dear S/Y Kelly'sEye Mike Cobbe involved intheNet,pleasedon’tmakecallsthen. Therefore, unlessit’sanemergencyoryouare you can’thearMelodyedoesn’tmeansheisn’ton. ple callotherboatsduringthattime?Justbecause on from0815to0830hourseveryday.Sowhydopeo- everybody knowsthattheSafetyandSecurityNetis bandwidth —anditappliestotheVHFnets,too. okay butnotbrilliant, andthefishingisiffy. palm treesandwith whitebeaches.Thesnorkellingis island. Theyaremostly beautifulislandscoveredin we spentthenextsix weekstravellingfromislandto headed fortheSanBlas archipelago(340islands)where Sunrise responding. responsibility tocheckforaclearfrequencybefore put thatintocontext—ifsomebodycallsyou,it’syour that thestationreceivingcallcontrolscall.To just don’tknowthem.Soheregoes. aren’t ignoringcorrectradioprocedures;perhapsthey because oftheverbalclutter.Presumablypeople stage thatit’sbecomingdifficulttomakeacall “switching”… Icouldgoonandon.It’sreachingthe three”, “rogerroger”,“pickafrequency”,“thisis”, phrases suchas“shallwego”,“andup(ordown) Dear Trinidad &Tobago Tony Ramesar to thefuture,agoodfutureindeed. of thenewspaperis“Compass”Iamsure itwillpoint — theproudhistoryofourCaribbean. Dear CC straight whennecessary. such asyourselftakingthetimetowriteandsetthings too. Weverymuchappreciateknowledgeablereaders suspect manyofourreadersareabitunclearonthis, comes tothesubjectofelectricalterminology,andwe Unfortunately, weallseemtobeLudditeswhenit article hadrecognizedthattherewasaproblem! process —ifanyofthethreeuswhoproofread tions. Wewouldhaveclearedthisupintheeditorial Dear Kim, Kewaydin Kim Ahlers been titled“ManagingyourOnboardEnergy”. enough. Thereisnoneedtointroducemore. in theeditorialprocess.Thissubjectisconfusing cle isrifewiththisconfusion.Youcouldclearup in nauticalmiles(speedmultipliedbytime). has goodspeedandthenquotetheasdistance time. Continuingtheparallel,youwouldn’tsayaboat day inthearticle),becauseitisnotusedformuch that itisnotabigenergyconsumer(oneamp-hour power device(16ampsinthearticle),butpointis the energy,notpower.Anelectricalheadisahigh- head astakingtoomuchpower…”goesontocalculate taining, “Manypeoplewouldconsideranelectrical “power” isintended.Forexample,theparagraphcon- just theterminologythatiswrong—causingconfusion. tical miles. by two,butrathermultiplyingthemtogettennau- would coveratfiveknotsintwohoursbydividing division. Youwouldn’tfigurethedistancethatyou ent arithmeticoperation:multiplicationratherthan than aslash)isunimportant,itimpliesverydiffer- think thislittlepunctuationdifference(adashrather which isampsmultipliedbyhours.Whileyoumay energy areamp-hours(assuminga12Vsystem), I workintheaviationfieldandoftengetcopiesof Thank youforalsofeaturinghistory,which tomeis The colorisjustrightforthetypeofpaperitprint- “ “ ( Could Ialsomakeanotherpleaabout8104?Surely That’s it.Anyadditionalwordsareatotalwasteof “ We leftCartagena,Colombia,inlateJanuary and As anexample,let’sassumethefictionalyacht The singlemostimportantprotocoltorememberis Every morningonSSB8104wehearwordsand I wishtheentirestaffmuchsuccess.Since thename Thanks verymuchforyourcorrectionsandclarifica- By theway,articlewouldmorecorrectlyhave I couldgoon,butthinkyougetthepoint.Thearti- Also inthearticle,term“energy”isusedwhen In fairness,thearticledoesgetarithmeticright,it’s Kelly's Eye Kelly’s Eye,Sunrise Sunrise, Kelly'sEye Sunrise Compass Compass Compass Compass is callingus( eight onefivefive.” . Imustsayyournewspaperisoneofthe checks foraclearfrequencyandthen , , Readers, , eightonefivefive.” Kelly’s Eye —Continued onnextpage —Continued ). Theconversation .” JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 51 ’01 $370K ’01 $690K ’87 $ 59K ’00 $ 75K $170,000 Super maintained! Lowest on Market! 4cab/4hd,2 avail from... 53' 1968 Gallant 53' 1968 Immaculate condition! POWER Classic Van de Stadt Design MULTIHULLS 40’Jeanneau Sun Odyssey, 3cab/2hd38’ Hunter 380, 3cab/1hd37’ Jeanneau Sun Ody. 2cab/1hd, Motivated37’ Beneteau Idylle, 3cab/2hd, ’00 $109K ’00 $112K ’99 $ 89K Sail Power $475K 45’ Prout Catamarans, 2 cab Never chartered! ’9542’ Lagoon, 4cab/2hd, Extensive upgrades42’ Solaris Cat, 4cab/4hd, in Rio Dulce $260K 40’ Fountaine Pajot Lavezzi, Owner’s Version ’92 ’03 $295K 37’ Heavenly Twins, 2cab/2hd $269K 56’ Horizon Motor yacht, ’86 $119K 50’ Hatteras Sportfisherman, 3 cab/2 head48’ Horizon 48 Motor Yacht, 3 cab/3 head42’ Nova Marine Trawler, Sundeck trawler ’8142’ Hershine 42, Motor yacht 4 cab/4 head36’ Heritage East 36 2cab/2hd, 2 avail from ’92 $ 59K $295K ‘0035’ Maxum SCR 3500, 2 cab/1 head ’98 $310K ’8927’ Eastern 27 Down East, 1 cab ’01 $249K $ 99K $187K ’01 $129K ’06 $ 99K 37’ CSY 37 Cutter, 2cab/2hd Good upgrades36’ Tiburon, 1cab/1hd Solid cruiser! ’7836’ Beneteau M362, 2cab/1hd, $ 45K 36’ Jeanneau Sun Odyssey, 2cab/1hd36’ Hunter Vision 36, 2cab 1 owner since new! ’9235’ O’Day, 2cab/1hd, Great condition $ 59K ’7646’ Fountaine Pajot Bahia $ 47K ’99 $ 65K ’87 $ 42K ’79 $125K ’81 $ 49K ’01 $129K ’86 $349K [email protected] Tel: (340) 779-1660 Fax: (340) 779-2779 St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00802 www.stthomasyachts.com Many upgrades Well maintained! SAIL Performance Cruiser Luxurious&spacious Square rigged, 3cab/2hd ’30 P.O Box 638, Road Town, Tortola, British Virgin Islands Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28, Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28, $119,000 website: www.bviyachtsales.com / Call for a complete list of over 70 boats Bluewater Cruiser Tel: 284-494-3260 Fax: 284-494-3535 email: [email protected] ST. THOMAS YACHT THOMAS ST. SALES Call, fax or visit our website for a complete list of boats for sale Call, fax or visit our website for a complete 43' 1984 Young Sun Pilothouse, 40' 1987 O'Day Sloop 2 strms, new engine, well maintained 40' 1987 O'Day Sloop 2 strms, new engine, well radar, liferaft 43' 1979 Young Sun Bluewater cruiser, AP, $ 78,000 $115,000 44' '82 Ta Chiao CT50' '90 Morgan Catalina, 3 strm, new eng, chain plates Canoe Stern, Perkins 4-108 32' 2003 Sea Ray Sundancer Low hrs, great weekender $125,000 36' 1989 Grand Banks Trwl, Classic, Twin Cummins $105,000 $145,000 42' '81 Post Sportfish $170,000 48' '89 Hi Star Trawler Twin DD's, very good condition 375HP Cats Sundeck, 3 strms, $159,900 $100,000 64’ Haj Kutter Schooner, 46’ Hunter 460, 3cab/ 2hd 2 avail. from45’ Jeanneau Sun Ody. 3cab/3hd45’ Bombay Explorer, 2cab/2hd World cruiser! ’7844’ Beneteau 44CC, 2cab/2hd, In great shape! $ 59K ’9444’ CSY 44 2cab/2hd, Reduced – Motivated! ’77 44’ CSY Walkover, 2cab/2hd, Great condition! ’79 ’00 $189K $ 85K 43’ Jeanneau Sun Odyssey, 4cab/2hd, 2 avail. $165K $149K ’0143’ Mason, 2cab/1hd, World Cruiser!43’ Serendipity, 2cab/1hd, $175K ’99 $149K 43’ Nautor Swan, 2cab/1hd, Great price42’ Dufour Gibsea, 2 cab/2 hd, ’8142’ J Boat J/130, 2cab/1hd, Fully equipped! $119K 42’ Hunter, 2cab/2hd, New Listing41’ Morgan 416, Ketch, 2cab/2hd ’70 ’9340’ Island Packet, 2cab/2 hd, New Listing $ 79K $199K 40’ Beneteau M405, 3cab/2hd, Loaded!40’ Bayfield, 2cab/2 hd, New Listing!40’ Catalina 400, 2cab/2hd, New Listing ’98 $219K ’03 ’95 $199K $119K ’83 ’95 ’84 $ 78K $119K $ 99K 52’ Jeanneau Su Ody, 3cab/3hd Loaded!51’ Formosa Cust. Ketch CC, 3 cab/3hd50’ Beneteau 50, Cutter, 5cab/5hd47’ Vagabond, Ketch CC, 2cab/2hd ’0346’ Kelly Peterson, 2cab/2hd, Immaculate!46’ Formosa Peterson, 2cab/2hd, $405K ’80 $199K ’83 $199K ’02 ’87 $329K $269K 60’ Palomba Cust. Pilothouse CC, 5 cab/2hd54’ Hylas CC, 3 cab/2hd, Immaculate condition ’99 $739K ’70 $119K 54’ Gulfstar 54, 3cab/2hd, Compass Editor’s note: as they are headed Discovery, which was lovely. which was lovely. were transitting the canal and needed line were transitting Starlight Dancer Promesa Readers, ] Compass We want to hear from YOU! Please include your name, boat name or address, and a way we can contact you if We do not publish individual consumer complaints or individual regatta results com- Letters may be edited for length, clarity and fair play. Send your letters to: [email protected] or fax (784) 457-3410 or Compass Publishing Ltd. Readers’ Forum, Box 175BQ, Bequia, St. Vincent & the Grenadines The statement was issued at the close of a five-day whale-watch tour guide/oper- The statement was issued the whale-watching indus- We the undersigned, employed by and/or associated with others attending the 59th We are, therefore, calling on our own governments and In mid-March we were out of supplies and so we left for the port city of Colon port city of we left for the and so out of supplies we were In mid-March This is a statement issued by CARIBwhale and others involved in or supporting This is a statement issued Friends of ours on the yacht Friends of ours we had to problems which we both developed medical/dental At the same time a few odds and ends and then will head back to the We are now just sorting out of other than the good supermarkets, but the facilities Colon is nothing to speak Grenadines Grenadines Dominica Dear clarification is required. plaints (kudos are okay!). We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your name may be withheld in print at your request. Petra Charles, Anchorage Whale Watch Dive Center, Dominica Petra Charles, Anchorage Whale Watch Dive Center, Dominica Pernell Fagan, Anchorage Whale Watch Dive Center, Derek Perryman, CARIBwhale Inc, Dominica Daniel Perryman, Dive Dominica, Dominica Augustus Bernard, Dive Dominica, Dominica Gerard Sharplis, Rendezvous Tours, Dominica Ishanna Emmanuel, Rendezvous Tours, Dominica Jesse Armour, Whale Dive.org, Dominica Fitzroy Armour, Whale Dive.org, Dominica Ignatius Mitchell, Fisherman, Dominica Joseph Thomas, Fisherman, Dominica William Lawrence, AL Dive, Dominica Dave D. Fabien, AL Dive, Dominica Jerry Daway, Island Style Fishing Charters, Dominica Lambert Charles, Lambee & Sons, Dominica Dominica Simon Walsh, Dominica Watersports Association, Dominica Nigel Riviere, Dominica Youth Environmental Organization, Dominica Inelle Laville, International Fund for Animal Welfare, Dominica Michael Johnson, International Fund for Animal Welfare, Richard McCaulay , Friends of Nature, Belize Janeen Bullard, Bahamas National Trust, Bahamas Association, Kim Beddall, CARIBwhale, Inc/Samana Bay Boat Owners Dominican Republic Tahera Benjamin, First Impressions, Inc, Grenada Albert Christopher, First Impressions, Inc, Grenada St. Vincent & the Noyle Bailey, Caribbean Youth Environmental Network, St. Vincent & the Yohan Little, Caribbean Youth Environmental Network, Earl Halbich, Fantasea Tours, St. Vincent & the Grenadines Kim Halbich, CARIBwhale Inc/Fantasea Tours, St. Vincent & the Grenadines Ronnell Small, Fantasea Tours, St. Vincent & the Grenadines Hallam Daize, Sea Breeze Nature Tours, St. Vincent & the Grenadines Caroline Aimable, Mystic Man Tours, St. Lucia Lionel Pinard, Captain Mike Charters, St. Lucia Jason Moise, Hackshaw Boat Charters, St. Lucia Paul Hackshaw, CARIBwhale Inc/Miss-T Charters, St. Lucia Micky Lamontagne, Hackshaw’s Boat Charters, St. Lucia Pernel Johnny, Caribbean Youth Environmental Network, St. Lucia Crisey Darcheville, Caribbean Youth Environmental Network, St. Lucia Joth Singh, International Fund for Animal Welfare, United States of America Kelvin Alie, International Fund for Animal Welfare, United States of America Kate Nattrass, International Fund for Animal Welfare, United States of America Olive Andrews, International Fund for Animal Welfare, Australia ator workshop which took place from May 14 to 18 in Dominica. ator workshop which took place from May 14 to 18 in of commercial/scientific whal- try in the Caribbean, have experienced that voting in favor families and communities. ing negatively affects our livelihood and that of our extended of our region and to take meeting of the IWC to consider the legitimate aspirations industry and thus the seriously their responsibility for protecting the tourism economies of the region. Signed, Watch Dive Center, Andrew Armour, CARIBwhale Inc/Anchorage Whale which is the Caribbean/Atlantic entrance to the Panama Canal. Here we sadly bid Here we Panama Canal. to the entrance is the Caribbean/Atlantic which and Bibi on buddy cruisers, Wayne farewell to our —Continued page from previous of these. enjoyed some and we crabs in season lobsters and however get One can to ones are exported as all the big not, though, The lobsters are are huge. The crabs the US. the whale-watch industry in the Caribbean. We the undersigned urge Caribbean and the whale-watch industry in International Whaling Commission (IWC) meeting other delegates to the upcoming of commercial or “scientific” whaling. [ to vote against any resumption Open Letter in Support of Whale Protection Open Letter in Support of get sorted out and which are now a thing of the past. My knee, which collapsed of the past. My knee, and which are now a thing get sorted out has improved operated on immediately, thought would have to be and which we develops with it. If it goes again I will have it oper- so we are waiting to see what ated on here in Panama. of season starts. These are storms with winds San Blas before the Chocosana most unpleasant. The rainy season has already started around 50 knots and are buckets down. and, boy, when it rains, it We are very good thanks to the legacy left by the US. related to the Panama Canal maintain it and don’t let it decay as the city of Colon has. just hope the Panamanians Roger and Frankie Marshall Yacht Infinity back to Texas and we want to return to the San Blas. We did, however, meet up the San Blas. We did, however, and we want to return to back to Texas and Mary Lou on again with Karl an experience the Panama Canal and what went with them through handlers so we The scenery and the central part is huge. enormous, and the lake in that was. It is to remember. That was an experience spectacular to say the least. vegetation are is taking place May 28 to 31, as this issue of The 59th meeting of the IWC goes to press. JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 52 Tel (868)739-6449 Stadt, 139K/US,Trinidad, Pearson, 45K/US,40'Vander Euro, 34'SanJuan,40K/US,36' Soleil, 285K/US,44'Bavaria,150 Simpson Cat,86K/US,52'Grand Roberts 95K/US,42'Roger 100k,72' PwrCat,P.O.A.,45' P.O.A., CustomKetch40' Rassy 45'$350K/US,Hallberg CMS YACHTBROKER [email protected] Tel (246)231-0464E-mail Barbados YachtClubUS$8,000 stack packmain,5hpOB.At elliptical leadkeel,newjib& foam sandwichconstruction, "FANCY SAILOR"33'RACER [email protected] (+596) 696-907429E-mail equipped. US$75,000Tel Well maintained,6berths,fully fortable andspaciousvessel. fiberglass hull,seaworthy,com- Martinique, recentlyrestored, 45' MOTORSAILER E-mail [email protected] US$115,000 Tel(268)721-0983 Jolly Harbourboatyard,Antigua. system andmuchmore.Locate 2 anchorsplusrearrollinganchor radar arch,davits,elecwindlass, drop downtransom,custom awning w/flapsandrailcovers, 80 watermaker,fullcover frig, 3burnerstove&oven,PUR GPS, solor&wind,12vcoldplate water tank,ICOMSSB,WAAS post, newinteriorfloor,Alum New supportandcompression cruising boatwithlotsofextras. 1985 GOZZARD36 1914 [email protected] 52' IRWINKETCH [email protected] Yannis Tel(784)458-8513E-mail condition. US$150,000Capt. Kawasaki Yards,Japan.Running Northern LightsGen.Built1967 130hp FordLehman,15kw Mahogany onOak&Teak, S/Y HURRICANE72'KETCH DETSRLCTO PG LOCATION ADVERTISER aiba trArie niu 55 53 17 33 53 Antigua Martinique 49 Martinique 40 11 Caribbean StarAirlines St.Lucia 51 Trinidad Guadeloupe Caribbean YachtingB.J.Inc. 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Cruiseready. autohelm, radar,watermaker, els, windgenerator,windvane, specs. Refit2000-2004.Solarpan- GALLANT 53 [email protected] Tel (868)680-6563E-mail Ready torace!US$17,000 new ST40speed/depth,etc. Tacktick wirelesscompass, cruising), excellentcondition, 15hp OB,8sails(racing& paint &bottom,Yamaha tered) basedinTrinidad.New J-29 "GENERATION" [email protected] request. US$30,000E-mail inventory &photoson last anti-fouledJune'06, epoxy system2yearsago, ed with5coat"Westcoat" dinghy/suncover, hulltreat- 8' aluminium-bottomed crusing. CurrentlyinAntigua, So. Africa,fullyequippedfor 30' MIURASLOOP1982 PROPERTY FORSALE MISC. 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by Julia Bartlett

AGENT FOR NEW JEANNEAU YACHTS

YACHT CHARTERS, BROKERAGE, SERVICES, RACES

Home for the for Home

WWW.CARIBBEANYACHTINGBJ.COM

When we are sailing to different Caribbean countries, we check them out first When we are sailing to different ago I found that once I stepped off the plane I was For example, about four years That is not cricket. The deal was that if you Then there are the speed cameras. one-armed bandits and Two years ago when I arrived back I was surrounded by of choice. I needed warm I had to go back this year in January, not my season people give them the Now, as I understand the thrift/charity shop thing, So here’s my “Home for the Hurricane Season” advice: isn’t from your coun- • At all times keep at least one driver’s licence valid that your face on the • There’s a lot to be said for the burka. They can’t recognise buy one lottery tick- • I can’t help with the gambling thing. Personally I always ticket if you are going to • Check out when the sales are on before booking your especially with those I would love to hear how other Caribbean cruisers cope, Right now I’m going to ride my bike back home through the town of Bocas del Accidents? We don’t have them. We can’t go fast enough because of the potholes. I love the Caribbean.

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on Safety and Security Net. But there is nothing like that for me when I go back to But there is nothing like that for me when I go back on Safety and Security Net. there are things it would be good to be warned about the UK for the summer — and 11 be such a shock after living in the Caribbean for in advance. Then they wouldn’t months a year. in. everywhere I went. Big Brother had seriously moved being monitored by cameras I’m I accepted; being monitored at the pub I did not. Being monitored at the airport I’m talking beams and a log fire. Is someone back there not talking some dive here; There was a camera in the car park, too. Are they going counting the pints I drink? me get behind the wheel after a half too many? to call the cops if they see a fair cop; you should have been on the ball and seen got caught speeding it was the nothing fair about it. We’ve always heard that them coming. But now there’s on their technology to keep up with the criminals. police have to constantly work got the other way round. There were speed traps. We With the lowly motorist it’s lights to warn each other and developed the radar warn- around that by flashing our on motorway bridges! ing gadget that you stuck on the dash. Now they put cameras bridges? England did- Come on chaps, outside a school I can live with, but motorway happened? Do I have to come n’t used to be a police state when I lived there. What back and sort it out? Do you really want that? Caribbean to the UK via other lottery machines. In the airport! I usually fly from the to get to the UK if you go via countries (travel tip: for some reason it’s less expensive of thousand, ozone-killing air several other countries and rack up an extra couple gaming machines. In the miles), so I see other airports. Other airports don’t have for them. Outside the supermarket in the UK you can’t move your trolley are, machines of one sort or newsagents, in the pub — you name it, and there they look. Don’t they know that another for gambling. And it’s advertised, everywhere you Las Vegas, Hong Kong or gambling is an addiction that ruins lives? This not No wonder I choose to Singapore; it is MY England. Correction: it was my England. spend my life in the Caribbean. afford to shop in them clothes with a vengeance so I hit the charity shops. I couldn’t were on and there I could and I am not kidding. Thank goodness the January sales in somebody else’s wardrobe afford to shop for fashionable clothes that hadn’t hung for years before they died. for free and they don’t pay clothes, they get a deal on the rent, people work there volunteering in them if taxes. What am I missing here? Wouldn’t it be less boring made some revenue? they had customers? Wouldn’t the charity benefit if they fine notices to Florida. try of origin. Personally, I let them send the UK speeding under it, which means that video cameras and nobody knows what you are wearing the feet and Pooh Bear on you never have to change out of those cosy jimjams with the front. is hurt and I don’t buy any et and I’m so disgusted that I don’t win that my pride more just to show them. need extra layers to prevent hypothermia. cross between an ATM, a one- automated check-in machines at the airport that are a even know about them, did armed bandit and a computer game. (See, you didn’t are taking all the fun out of you?) Am I going to be frisked by a machine too? They flying. Toro, in the pitch black, without any lights and after several beers too many. The police won’t care because they don’t have lights on their bikes either and those in the cars are too busy talking to their girlfriends on their cell phones to notice, but that’s only if the girlfriend isn’t in the back seat. WHAT’S ON MY MIND MY ON WHAT’S JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 54 Nick’s Donuts Le Chateaurestaurant Rick’s Café Food Fair Foodland Island WaterWorld Tropicana Grenada YachtClub Port Authority Marine World Art Fabrik Tikal The PublicLibrary appear inbold): of the Read inNextMonth’s Ahoy, Caribbean CuisinewithCoconuts Caribbean Compass Compass An IrieWelcomeinJamaica PICK UP! Cruising CommonSense Readers! WheninGrenada,pickupyourfreemonthlycopy Compass …and more! Aquanauts Horizon Yachts True BlueBayResort Bananas JYA Turbulence De BigFish Budget Marine Spice IslandMarine McIntyre Bros. Fish &Chicks True ValueSupermarket La Boulangerie at anyoftheselocations(advertisersinthisissue : Bel AirPlantation Grenada MarineCanvas Grenada Marine Island View Nimrod’s RumShop Clarke’s CourtBayMarina Island Dreams Martin’s Marina Enza Prickly BayMarina Essentials Mini-Mart TBA TBA TBA 48 50,Fax:059672,[email protected], www.yoles-rondes.org around islandinsevenlegs.SociétédesYolesRondes(Martinique),tel(596596)61 31 -5Aug 30 29- 6Aug 27 -7Aug 26 -39 25 -27 25 24 23 -11Aug 23 -6Aug 23 20 -5Aug 20 -25 21 18 -5Aug 18 -20 17 16 -18 14 14 13 -1Aug TBA 30 30 29 -10July 29 -30 29 28 -8July 27 -3July 24 -25 24 23 -24 23 -24 21 -1July 21 -24 21 -24 21 19 18 16 -23 16 -17 15 -7July 15 -18 12 9 -10 8 -17 7 6 -12 2 -3 1 JUNE 12 -14 9 -10 8 -11 8 6 -15 6 -8 5 -18 5 4 3 3 2 1 JULY If youwouldlikea nauticalortourismeventlistedFREE inourcalendar, please sendthename anddate(s)oftheevent name All informationwascorrecttothebestof ourknowledgeatthetime Grenada SummerRegatta Annual ArubaReefCareProject Antigua -BarbudaRace.JHYC FULL MOON Fête desquartierduNord-FlamandsBoatRaces,St.Barts Rebellion Days.PublicholidayinCuba Constitution Day.PublicholidayinPuertoRico Bolivar’s Birthday.PublicholidayinVenezuela Statia Carnival.Publicholidayin USVI LifestyleFestival,St.Thomas.www.usvimf.com Schoelcher Day.PublicholidayinMartinique Saba Carnival.Publicholidayin Luis MuñozRivera’sBirthday.PublicholidayinPuertoRico St. LuciaCarnival.Publicholidayin Underwater Cleanup,Bonaire.www.dive-friends-bonaire.com Bastille Day.PublicholidayinFrenchWestIndies.YoleracesMartinique 11th AngolaConstructionSailingCompetition,Bonaire [email protected], www.antiguayachtclub.com Green IslandWeekend.AntiguaYachtClub(AYC),tel/fax(268)460-1799, FULL MOON(“bluemoon”:thesecondfullmoonthismonth) www.weyc.net (WEYC), Tortola,tel(284)4951002,fax495-4184,[email protected], 16th Firecracker500Race&ChiliCook-Off,Tortola.WestEndYachtClub Fisherman’s Birthday.Boatanddinghyracesinmanyfishingcommunities. Bequia Carnival.www.bequiatourism.com Battle ofCaraboboDay.PublicholidayinVenezuela Summer Sailstice,worldwide.www.summersailstice.com Financial ServicesChallengeRace,BVI.RBVIYC 10th AnnualSt.KittsMusicFestival.www.stkittsmusicfestival.net St. Thomas,USVI.STYC,www.styc.net 15th annualScotiabankCaribbeanInternationalOptimistRegatta, Summer Solstice Kayak Centre,Chaguaramas;[email protected] Labour Day.PublicholidayinTrinidad&Tobago.DragonboatRegattaat Father’s DaypublicholidayinPuertoRico Bonaire DiveFestival.www.diveintoadventurebonaire.com North SailsOne-DesignKeelboatChamps,www.tropicalsailloft.com www.transcaraibes.com Les SaintesRegatta,Guadeloupe Queen’s OfficialBirthday.PublicholidayinsomeCommonwealthcountries fax (284)494-6117,www.rbviyc.net IC24 Worlds,BVI.RoyalBVIYachtClub(RBVIYC),tel(284)494-3286, and [email protected] Morgan’s Run2007rallyfromCartagena,ColombiatoOldProvidence Corpus Christi.Publicholidayinmanyplaces Provo Mariners’Week,Turks&Caicos.www.maritimeheritage.tc tel (599)544-2075,fax544-2091,[email protected],www.smyc.com Open LaserChampionships,St.MaartenYachtClub(SMYC) FULL MOON St. BarthsOpenFishingTournament Vincy Mas.PublicholidayinSt.Vincent&theGrenadines Chief Minister’sCupYouthRegatta,Tortola.RBVIYC 12th AnnualBequiaFishermen’sDay.www.bequiatourism.com Dominica [email protected] Charlotteville Fishermen’sFestival,Tobago.(868)660-5521 Tortola BVICarnival Independence Day.PublicHolidayinVenezuela Carnival inSt.John,USVI US IndependenceDay.PublicholidayinPuertoRicoandUSVI. CARICOM Day.Publicholidayincountries Emancipation Day.PublicholidayinUSVI Curaçao FlagDay.Publicholidayin Territory Day.PublicholidayinBVI this issueof 42nd CarriacouRegattaFestival.www.carriacouregatta.com HIHO WindsurfRegatta,BVI.www.go-hiho.com 21st AnnualArubaHi-WindsAmateurWorldWindsurfingChallenge HIHO CaribbeanPassagerally,BVI.www.go-hiho.com n LaRoutedesTepuysrallyfromMartiniquetoPuertolaCruz. 2nd 23rd TourdesYolesRondes,Martinique.DepartsTrois-Iletsandsails Culturama, Nevis Antigua Carnival Cropover Festival(Carnival)inBarbados Tobago HeritageFestival.(868)639-4441 Nevis Carnival Vincy Mas(St.VincentCarnival).www.svgtourism.com BVI EmancipationFestival and contactinformation oftheorganizingbodyto contact eventorganizersdirectlyforconfirmation. Compass •[email protected] CALENDAR went topress—butplanschange,soplease . www.st-barths.com JUNE 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 55 Sea Scout team Angels & Saints par- ticipated in First Annual Charity Dragonboat Festival in Trinidad Cruisers are also welcome to attend scout meetings welcome to attend scout Cruisers are also contact volunteer To learn more and to sign up, is looking forward to improving its showing at the to improving its showing is looking forward Regatta, Labour Day Dragonboat next race, the the Kayak Tuesday, 19th June, at scheduled for the support and welcomes Centre in Chaguaramas, to cruisers. What a perfect opportunity of interested the Scouts in person. meet some of St. Mary's sessions at the Scout Room, and training les- participate in swimming College, on Wednesdays; Serpentine St. Mary's College pool on sons at the and kayaking and Road on Thursdays and Saturdays; in Chaguaramas on alter- biking at the Kayak Centre nate Fridays. 634-1110, coordinator Niels Lund at (868) volunteer Beth [email protected]; Blackford at (868) 641-8125, Troop Leader Andrew [email protected]; [email protected]; Buckmire at (868) 681-8144, Maharaj, (868) 620- or Troop Admin Matron Sally 6180, [email protected]. by Beth Blackford by Beth The kids I’m talking about are members of the 6th talking about are members The kids I’m parents, Buck is also Along with many involved inflating PFDs while you’re at it. And what about that while you’re at it. And what inflating PFDs you’ve been repair job on the transom little fiberglass to see a few scouts the opportunity putting off? Give contacts list- it’s done. Call one of the first-hand how “cheering of this article to line up your ed at the end supplies. you head out to buy your section’ before troop is based Sea Scouts (6TSS). The Trinidad & Tobago oldest Scout College, and is one of the out of St. Mary’s guidance, It’s clear that the dedication, groups in Trinidad. Troop Leader Andrew (Buck) and mentoring provided by vibrant, young leaders. Buckmire is producing tomorrow’s to be reckoned with! producing a dragonboat team is a driving force behind Troop Matron Sally Maharaj one of the strongest com- the Angels and Saints — First Annual Charity petitors at the March 18th Trinidad. The Dragonboat Festival in Chaguaramas, girls had the best overall mixed team of boys and entered, although scor- cumulative time of 25 teams seventh place. The team ing quirks finished them in

Here’s what you can do to “give something back” (for can do to “give something Here’s what you the skills regular practice to master Sea Scouts need other things you can do Here are some examples of

whatever!) while you wait out the hurricane season in you wait out the hurricane whatever!) while coach a local Trinidad. Volunteer to Chaguaramas, — in knot- boys and girls aged 12 to 17 Sea Scout — duty, com- and repair, galley tying, boat maintenance skills that weather, and other nautical munications, a daily basis. you perform on and Leading qualify for Ordinary, Able, necessary to same skills, requirements. These Sea Scout badge in the Scout Promise coupled with the integrity found “I promise that I will do (you know, the one that goes go a long way toward my best, to do my duty” etcetera) to become successful, preparing these young people of tomorrow. productive adults and the leaders Going for a daysail? Why to help them learn the ropes: along to help out and learn not take a couple of Scouts you’re out there, practice from the best (you)! While procedures during a your man-overboard recovery test and service your self- swim call. You might as well Give Back to Trinidad — Help a Sea Scout a Sea — Help Trinidad to Back Give RICHARD BLACKFORD RICHARD Published by Compass Publishing Limited, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and printed by Trinidad Publishing Company Limited