FAIR AMERICAN

of• 1780

18th Century War J By ERIK A. R. RONNBERG, JR.

MODEL SHIPWA YS CO. INC.

BOGOTA, N. J. FAIR AMERICAN 1780

18th Century War Brig

Sketches & Text

Instructions for constructing a model of the Revolutionary War brig from a Model Shipways kit, with information applicable to similar contemporary vessels, including advice to beginners and subtle points for the experienced.

By ERIK A. R. RONNBERG, JR.

MODEL SHIPW A YS CO. INC.

BOGOTA, N. J.

Printed in U.S.A. INSTRUCTIONS FOR KIT OF THE REVOLUTIONARY WAR BRIG FAIR AMERICAN, c. 1780 by ERIK A. R. RONNBERG, JR.

HISTORY.-Your kit of the Revolutionary War brig FAIR AMERICAN is based on Model No. 60 in the Henry Huddleston Rogers model collection at the U.S. Naval Academy Museum, Annapolis, Maryland. The model's origin is uncertain: one claim asserts that the model was made by the British Admiralty after the vessel's capture to study her fine hull form and enormous rig; another faction has argued that the model was made in America and subsequently used as a guide for a painting of a naval engagement involving the original brig. All that is certain is that the model was in English hands prior to its acquisition by Colonel Rogers and one can only wonder how the model got there if it had been made in America during the turbulent post-Revolutionary period, and by whom, assuming time, money, and talent were available for such an involved undertaking. Due to the number of vessels named FAIR AMERICAN which participated in the Revolution and the amount of conflicting data pertaining to these names, it is virtually impossible at this time Published by to identify the FAIR AMERICAN which the Rogers model represents. A brig of that name which Model Shipways Co., Inc. closely resembles the model participated in the GENERAL MONK- HYDER ALLY engagement of April, 1782. A painting by Verney of this action is in the Naval Academy Museum and the resemblance between the brig depicted and the Rogers model is close, but not conclusively so, and any further association between the model and this painting can only be conjecture, pending further Copyright c 1978 evidence. It should be added that at the time of that engagement, the brig was under English colors, having been captured from the revolutionaries a year or two previously. She was retaken by the Americans in the of pursuing the HYDER ALLY'S convoy up the Delaware when she ran 1st Printing aground.

SECOND PRINTING 1981 The Rogers model, whatever FAIR AMERICAN she represents, is an interesting example of a rigged model from her period. If built for the Admiralty, it may have been a "rush job" intended to answer pressing questions about hull form and without regard for the time-consuming frills commonly associated with "Admiralty models". The finish and carvings are a bit crude, and the ravages of time and wood shrinkage have not enhanced these features. Workmanship of the rigging and rigging fittings is more impressive and one wonders if rigging and were not the more important objects for Admiralty study, assuming this was the model's purpose. The model's rigging betrays some apparent anachronisms, the and main being the most obvious. Have there been efforts to "improve" the model's rigging during subsequent repairs or, if all rigging is truly contemporary, do we need to revise some of our notions about 18th century rigging practice? Certainly the Verney painting, done in 1802, cannot be wholly trusted and the fact that many of the Rogers models have been re-rigged, or newly rigged while in Rogers' possssion, might mean that all details of this model's rigging may not be trustworthy. A book review of the Rogers Collection catalog by R. C. Anderson in the MARINER'S MIRROR, vol. 41, 1955, p. 85 gives a fuller discussion of this controversial situation. The rigging of FAIR AMERICAN, as drawn in these kit plans, has been revised to agree with rigging practice described in Steel, Elements of Mastmaking, Sailmaking, and Rigging ( 1794) . Those wishing to rig their models with sails are advised to consult the sailmaking directions in Steel, using photographs of the Rogers model as a guide. For those who insist on replicating the rigging of the Rogers model, including doubtful elements, photographs of the model in the Rogers Collection catalog will readily show the details in question. A bibliography of source material used in the Model Shipways plans is included in the back of this booklet.

2 3 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS A cheap, accurate, but not always convenient way of transferring dimensions from plans to model is The kit described herein is essentially a "model of a model" with only minor changes as mentioned with tick strips, a narrow piece of paper being placed on the plan beside the object to be measured, previously. The Model Shipways plans as drawn by John R. ?tevens have been left in their original the object's dimensions being transferred by making tick marks with a sharp pencil on the edge of the format, the principal alterations being more labels, some additional views in the plan, revisions and strip. The dimensions marked on the strip can now be transferred to the construction material from which additions to the rigging plan, and a new plan. In the main, Stevens' conception of this kit the part in question is to be made. This method has the virtue of recording dimensions or distances for as a modified project for kit modelers remains unchanged. re-use or later consultation, provided notes are made on each strip as to what each mark records. This Our thanks to the Curator of the U.S. Naval Academy Museum for permission to take the lines off requires organization of thought and work habits, and the sooner you apply yourself to these ends, the the model. .. better. I am grateful to William A. Baker, Curator, Hart 1-~aucical Museum, Massachusetts Institute of So far as following instructions is concerned, the sequence offered herein is one that the author has Technology, for taking time to study the revised plans, checking the labels, and offering suggestions on found practical in the course of building nearly 100 models. If you don't like it, you are free to choose terminology and rigging alterations. your own order of construction and you may have a better model to show for it; however, beginners In the course of altering the drawings, a model of the FAIR AMERICAN model built to test might do well to follow this text closely to avoid pitfalls and awkward situations. If you think you can ideas and iron out the usual headaches over finding all the proper rigging leads. The model, illustrated make fittings which seem better than the castings provided, by all means do so; the more you add of your herein, was made jointly by me and my father, Erik A. R. Ronnberg, Sr., to whom I am grateful for own handiwork, the more confidence and pride you will have in your model and the closer you will come making numerous revisions and waiting patiently for me to do my bits of the mcdel's construction and · to scratch-building the ultimate goal of all kit modelers. finishing. You should now familiarize yourself with all parts of the kit. Take out all wood parts, measure Finally, thanks to Model Shipways Co. for ransacking its files for past gleanings and feedback on them, match them to the list of wooden parts, and mark each piece to identify it. All parts in the fittings this kit, and for their patience with any number of delays, corrections, afterthoughts, daydreams, and package should also be taken out, matched to their counterparts in the plans, labeled, and carefully boxed other dalliances with which I have plagued them. or sorted in small envelopes for ready access in the future. Before commencing work, you may wish to read these instructions from cover to cover to get a MODEL CONSTRUCTION better idea of the construction sequence and some of the problems to be encountered. Many of the smaller PRELIMINARIES subsequent operations can be tackled individually while you are waiting for glue or paint to dry. When This kit is to the approximate scale V" = 1', but more nearly approaches the metric scale 1 :50; 4 you've done all you can for one item that needs curing time, there's always something else that needs however, the use of drafting <>cales to either calibration will give sufficiently accurate results. tinkering. Methodical fiddling with small parts can boost your efficiency considerably and you'll be While a rig of this sort is not recommended for the novice building his first model, advanced surprised at your progress. beginners will find working to this large scale is easier than building a similar model to a smaller scale like Vl' = 1'. Many of the features of this hull and rig will be similar to those of a larger man-of-war, TOOLS so the prudent modelmaker who is working his way up to a CONSTITUTION or ESSEX will find Measuring tools have already been discussed in the previous section, and they will be necessary for this kit a constructive "primer" to the intricacies of larger nav:~.l vessels. all modelmaking operations. Breaking down tool requirements by major phases of construction, we have: A. Smoothing and shaping the hull: READING PLANS AND FOLLOWING INSTRUCTIONS. 1. Sandpaper- #80 (coarsest) through #220 (finest) aluminum oxide production paper. The greatest bugbear and deterrent to the average shipmodeler is that of understanding scale 2. Half-round file- 10" coarse cut. drawings and following a logical sequence of constru"tion. The thing to bear in mind with plans is that 3. Small chisel and gouge (blades V2" wide or less) - try the inexpensive Japanese block they are drawn to scale, the size of the model in the drawing being exactly the same size as the model you printers' carving sets. are to build. If a hatch in the drawings measures 1%" long by 1V 4" wide by Vs" high, then those are the 4. Knives- Xacto or your favorite jack-knife. dimensions of the corresponding hatch on your model. Right away this should tell you that measuring 5. Small bench vise (optional) . all parts, or finding their dimensions, is a critical part of modelmaking and you should be properly equipped B. Rails, deck, hull fittings: for this essential work. If you have an old set of engineer's drafting tools in your possession, you have made 1. Coping saw or jeweler's saw frame and fine blades. an important first step. If not, perhaps an engineer friend can loan you an old set or purchase a used set 2. Razor saw (Xacto or Zona) for you. College bookstores and pawn shops are excellent hunting grounds for used drafting instruments. 3. Pinvise and drills (1/8", 3/32", 1/16", #60, #65, #70, #75). If you must resort to purchasing individual instruments, then you will find the following useful: 4. Pliers- round-nose (for forming rings and eyes in wire) and chain-nose with serrated jaws 1. 6" dividers with needle points. (for general work) . 2. 5" spring dividers (These open and close by turning a thumb-wheel.) with needle points. 5. Hammer - Jeweler's type, 1 oz. head or smaller. 3. Spring bow dividers with one pencil point. 6. Wire cutters - square nose or diagonal. Useful but not essential is an architect's scale rule, but try to get one with as few different scales as 7. Needle files - round, square, half-round, equalling, Barrette, three-square (triangular) . possible to avoid confusion. A flat scale ruled only to V4" = 1' or to metric 1:50 would be ideal. A C. Priming and painting: machinist's steel rule ( 6") is indispensable and inexpensive; get one that's ruled in 1/32" and 1/64" 1. Stains for natural wood finishes. divisions on one side and 1/10" (0.1n) and 1/ 100" (0.01") divisions on the other. 2. Primer for surfaces to be painted. 4 3. Paint. Ventilating a case is more of a problem. Some of the kits now available for making glass cases 4. Thinner and brush cleaner. already have vent holes and slots built in. With plastic cases, however, you must drill at least a single 5'. Brushes - fine ( #0), medium ( # 4), wide ( # 12), round sable or sabeline. row of vent holes in both end-panes. The holes should be diameter and spaced no more than 3,!.(' 6. Sandpaper - wet-or-dry, 220-, 320-, and 400-grit. Vs" apart across the pane; drill near the bottom of the end panes to make the holes less obvious. D. Masts and spars, add: 1. 10" flat file, coarse. HULL CONSTRUCTION E. Rigging: The hull as furnished is machine-carved of selected pattern-grade wood such as basswood, poplar, 1. Tweezers- stainless steel preferable with blunt (1/32" wide) serrated tips. or obeche. Within machine limitations, the outside of the hull has been accurately carved, with the 2. Scissors - fine surgical or manicure type, short curved blades preferred. exception of the areas around the stern, keel, and sternpost (Fig. 1 , A, B, shaded areas). Before shaping 3. Bees wax and liquid wax shoe polish (optional) for tinting cordage. these areas, it is most important to mark the center line and the rabbet lines which form the areas to 4. Strapping wire ( # 3 2 soft iron) for blocks. which the keel is attached (Fig. 1C, D). On this model, the joining surface for the keel should be The above list is "basic" for a project of this complexity and you will probably want to add to the list straight and level, and the simplest way of doing this is to draw the hull back and forth over a based on past modelmaking experience and your own creative intentions. If you are a relative newcomer of coarse sandpaper that has been glued or taped to a flat surface, being careful to hold the hull level to this art, settle for middle-priced tools and work with them until you know their capabilities (and and not rock it from side to side while sanding. Do this only enough to remove machine marks along yours); then, if you want to invest in costly hardware, you will know what you're looking for. the joining surface and bring it to a minimum width of 5' /3 2". It may be necessary to repeat this if you template the hull and find it too deep, but for now, all that's needed is a straight smooth surface for CONCERNING GLUE finding the center line. The types of glue to use or avoid is a confusing topic for the beginner and often an emotional tG-. one for the experienced. Synthetic resin, "white glue", such as Elrner's Glue-All is probably the best F 1. choice for bonding wood to wood or to paper and is very easy to apply. Acetate glues, for model MM:.HJNE -CARVED Huu.. SHADS> ARfAS A~f' THo!Jt PARTS aeroplane construction, are not recommended; they work well on porous balsa wood, but cannot OF HUU. R.t~UIRING MOST 6IIAPIMT. f\ '\JOIN IN& Q.I~FAC£ ~~·""'" penetrate close-grained pine or basswood for an effective bond. Catalyst-resin glues, such as epoxy, ,..,, FOf( B. are very strong but very hard and will ruin a cutting-edge or file when these tools are used to remove excess or accidental smears. These glues must also be carefully mixed, a tricky job in the small quantities needed. However you choose, use any glue sparingly and neatly; small toothpick applicators have prevented many a heartache. For strong, snug fits, pin the pieces together or clamp them with clothespins, rubber bands, paper clips, etc. Miniature clamps for model makers are commercially available. For gluing metal to wood, or to other metal, the more modem adhesives are decidedly the best. Acetate glues (Duco or Arnbroid), contact cements (Pliobond or Weldwood), and catalyst-resin glues (Devcon or Marine-Tex) all work well, the last mentioned especially so. Ideally, parts to be joined should be socket-joined or dowelled with wire for greatest strength. It is also advisable to scuff gluing surfaces with a file or sandpaper to give "bite" for the glue. LEAD FITTINGS AND GLASS CASES The center line should be marked on the bottom of the hull using a straightedge and a sharp, The cast-metal fittings supplied in this kit are of a lead-antimony alloy and are intended to circumvent hard (3H or 4H) pencil. Finding the center at the skeg is not difficult, due to the narrowness of the problems in machining of parts which are beyond the abilities and resources of the average rnodeler. structure; however, care should be taken in determining a center point forward, the pinched area of When placed in a confined atmosphere, such as you would find in a display case, static electricity and the forefoot being best for this. Connect these two points with a fine line, taking care that the oxygen may conspire to oxidize the lead, turning it to a grayish powder. This is a slow process in glass straightedge doesn't slip. The center line should be extended over the bow and stem, but the hull cases, but in plastic cases which, when placed in sunlight, become electrified pressure-cookers, lead ends must first be ternplated to determine their correct shapes. fittings may deteriorate more rapidly. If you use these metal fittings on your model and plan to case it Profile templates.- These can be made from heavy Bristol board or sheet metal, the former being afterward, do the following: easier to make, the latter more accurate. In either case, saw the material to shape- do not use 1. Avoid using plastic cases if the model is to be kept in a warm sunny area. scissors; a jeweler's saw frame with a 3/0 blade will do the job nicely. File and sand the template edges 2. If you still want a plastic case, ventilate it. This is a good idea with glass cases, too. to their final dimensions; the edges of Bristol board should be coated with a clear lacquer to eliminate 3. Prime the metal parts thoroughly, before installation. fu~ziness. Sheet alurninurn, such as used for siding trim on houses, is available in many s~es and To prime th~ fittings, you can dip or brush them with lacquer before painting, or paint them with a finishes. A flat white enamel surface is best as it takes ink or pencil layout lines nicely. metal primer (automotive supplies) or with those primers produced by Floquil or Irnrie/Risley Bow and stem templates similar to Fig. 2A and B should be made and the ends of the hull Miniatures. Some modelers have gotten excellent results by painting the metal with a coat of Elmer's trimmed until they fit the template outlines closely. Sand more off the hull bottom if it seems too deep, Glue-All, watered down somewhat. Paint over Elmer's Glue with artists' water-base acrylic paints, and but use only files and sanding blocks in forming the end profiles. This is a simple matter using a flat in all cases, coat the entire surfaces of all lead fittings with primer and finish coats . If metal parts are file for the bow and its simple curvature; however, for the stem you will need a half-round file and to be glued to other metal parts, do this before priming and painting. sanding blocks as suggested in Fig. 1 G. Throughout this project, you will find that sanding blocks 6 7 PIG.. ~. made in a variety of sizes and shapes, and with a range of sandpaper grits, will be your most versatile Bow TeMPUJTE (and cheapest) forming-and finishing tools. Use your imagination and try to adapt them to as many jobs as you can. A. In shaping the stern, note in the plans how the bottom rises to the counter in a sweeping curve. The counter (Fig. lE) has curvature only in profile; athwartships (side-to-side) it is straight. The transom's shape is opposite that of the counter; vertically, it rises in a straight line, but curves gently THESE athwartships (Fig. 1 G). The transom should be carefully set to the proper angle of rake and faced TEMPJ..IJ'TFS SHOULD BE with a large flat file or the flat side of a half-round file. l=liT£D fJT Sections. -- The parts betwixt bow and stern will also need shaping, the accuracy of which will TilE CENT£~ depend on your mood and methods. Certainly, templates- metal or paper patterns which gauge the LJNE (£)· hull shape at intervals called stations- afford the greatest accuracy, but they can be tricky to make and use (Fig. 3A, B). Also, the carving at each station must be precise, not to mention the skillful blending of section forms with surrounding areas. We urge this operation only on the purists and those s~ill ed at fine woodwor~ing. 'Those who are otherwise must judge for themselves the worth of this underta~ing, trying first the midship section (No. 7 on the plans). From there, work forward, shaping Cf:Nr£1( LINE (i!) ~ c.

F tG-. 3. SECTION TEMPLRT£S B. STfJTIONS A. (DOTTED UNES)

Bow E. t RIIBBET UNES

8FISEIJNE­ T~MPLAT£ Hfi.J) IT$ To 8£ USED fJCCURIITELY. TO I Srt~rtaN ll T£MFtbTE MUST 8£ H£J.!J AT 90o To THE CENT~UNE IIND fJ"r '0° TO TJ.I£ 8/JSE C. l.JNE 1 WHICJI IN TNIS CASE KA8BE'r l.JNE DIVER C.ES Jl. 0 &J..OW THE KEEL RdB~T. EX!!.ESs "' ) /"/ IN 811/fPING i"'H£ D. £. wooo 'T'o _/- __ " I-IUJ...I... BorroM , Nor£ " v. /~ F. BE R~Mov£D : 1'\__TH£ DtsrtNcr ANGJ.£ WH£~~~I ') I I I {;TI I I 'j Siwf)tN'- THE HUI...L MEET'S ltE"E!._. /(££"-. RI18BET KEe... I __ J~ '--1 !...._2 SiRIUG.Hi. ro BfS~~~~D~ WRONG WRONG ( DO)I 'r OVEJr. DO.') 9 8 and' templating each section in turn. The forward sections are the easy ones, so experiment with them. Carving the bulwarks.- To protect the bulwarks from damage in shipment, they have been The aft sections should follow similar procedure, starting from amidships. Blending the in-between carved to about twice their proper thickness which is 5/32" at deck level, tapering to Vs" at rail areas to fair with the sections is the test for accuracy; if your hull is free of bulges, hollows, and level (Fig. 5). This job can be done very quickly using a small gouge (:Ys" , y2" wide) such as constrictions at all stations, then your work has been good. IF on the other hand, you find the work recommended in the tool list. The thickness of the bulwarks should be marked on top with a firm tedious, your eye indifferent to results, and some strange shapes developing in the hull, then you might (3H) pencil; rough-gouge the bulwarks to the line (Fig. 6), following with a small chisel to cut be better off putting your faith in the accuracy of the carving machine and finish smoothing the hull away the carving ridges left by the gouge. without templates. FIG-.~. 6. Remember that the most important part of smoothing the hull is to get all curved surfaces to flow without interruptions like bumps, flat spots, and asymmetry (Yes, both sides must be alike!). BuLWARkS A helpful tool for this is a narrow strip ( 18" long x 3,4" wide) of flexible wood or plastic (heavy acetate or "Lex an") with sandpaper glued to both sides ( 80-grit on one side; 120-grit on the other). Hold this "sanding batten" at the ends, drawing it fore and aft over the hull to work out any high spots, no more than a few strokes at a time in any one area. A large coarse half-round file will help in concave areas around the skeg, the forefoot, and under the counter. In the event of removing too much wood, build up the depressions with a filler such as Plastic Wood or Savogran, whichever type you find easiest to handle. Rough up the areas to be filled with coarse sandpaper, and in the case of Plastic Wood, apply thin coats, allowing each coat to dry 6· 10 hours to eliminate further shrinkage. RouGHING -~WN R~MOVING. GOUGE In ·shaping and smoothing the bottom around the keel, it is important to fair the hull to the WITH ~ SMnJ..L ('/f."- ~!. M~I?.KS WI7W I} rabbet line as shown in Fig-. 3C, D, E. In a shipshape hull, the bottom surfaces will meet the keel WIDE;) G.OUG.E. SMIJJ..A. CJIJSEJ.. . rabbet to form a clean sharp corner with no protruding ledges or undercuts. The same is true for S!1N{)IAJG. FOLI.. OWS, the stem and the stern post. If you've removed too much wood, beef up the rabbet areas with wood F ta... 7. filler and try again. BU!...W~RKS IJNDE~ Shop cradle.- Before doing work on the insides of the bulwarks, make a simple cradle to support 1'11£ QIJIIRiE!? DECJ( the hull and cushion it from the rigors of carving. The cradle can be made of wood, carefully shaped to conform to the hull bottom, padding the support surfaces with leather or soft foam stripping. If you are a slow worker and anticipate spending a long time on hull construction, you should definitely make a cradle like Fig. 4A. Fast workers who don't want to waste time on a one-shot cradle that will be needed for only a few months (The model will be transferred to permanent mounting blocb or pedestals after it has been painted.) can make a very serviceable cradle from a sturdy paper carton as in Fig. 4B, lining it with soft fabric like felt as even cardboard or corrugated paper can make ~NDING noticeable marks in the hull. In either type of cradle, be sure to leave deep enough slots at the bottom 3/...0c.K to accommodate the keel after it has been fitted. F'OR BVLWA~ FIG.. .lf. CRoss­ 1''- 1 Y/ l.!H1 SHOP CRRDL£S FOR HuLL S£CTION . NOTE: £JTH£~ C~ADI..£ UNE~S NOIT: B€VEL. SHOULD B£ fflDDED W/7'11 ~fliH~ OR, !=£/... T TO AVOID Working aft to the quarter deck, you will notice a step in the thickness of the bulwarks where M~R.I(ING. 'rH£ lllJI..J.... the quarter deck bulkhead is to be fitted (Fig. 7A). Similarly, there is a 1/16" step down in the level of the bulwarks to accommodate the bulwark plank. Measuring from the plans, align these two breaks with pencil marks and carefully face the ends square (Fig. 7B). The carved bulwarks may now be smoothed with a small sanding block (Fig. 7C), starting with 80-grit and finishing with 220-grit production paper. At this time, the gunports should be marked on the bulwarks, measuring carefully from the plans. At the center of each port, drill a 3/16" pilot hole, squaring the opening with a coarse square needle file and finishing the port with a fine Barrette fl. needle file. Main deck. - The main deck must now be prepared for gluing down the decking veneer. By running your fingertips over the deck surface, locate and carve or sand away any ridges or high spots left by the carving machine. Note that a "pad" (band of thick plank) runs amidships from bow to 11 stern, and it should be trimmed very carefully to 1V4./I width, or Vs" less as suggested in Fig. 8C. For sanding the deck surfaces, use a sanding block similar to Fig. 8B, using 80-grit and finally 150-grit paper. Be careful to form the deck camber as shown in the hull cross-sections on Sheet One of the MII!N DECI( plans. Note that the curve of the camber is constant throughout the length of the deck, meaning that (BEFOI?E PJ.ANKINt;.) where the deck narrows fore and aft, the "crown" is reduced much as the arc of a circle is reduced by a diminishing chord (Fig. 8E). P,. Scored Flanking Veneer.- This stuff will look quite good when applied "as is", but can be much improved with a little doctoring. Mix a small glob of walnut Plastic Wood with an equal quantity of lacquer thinner; with a small spatula, trowel this into the scored grooves, working it in well. Wipe off the excess with a rag dampened in lacquer thinner, rubbing across the grain. Before the wood has a chance to dry, brush on a coat of wood sealer on both sides; this will prevent excessive curling of the veneer. With the deck sanded, patterns should be fitted for the side panels of decking veneer which lie on both sides of the pad. Cut the patterns from stiff cardboard or heavy Bristol board. Once the c. patterns fit closely without binding or buckling, trace them on the scored veneer provided and cut the veneer to shape using a sharp-pointed knife (Xacto # 11 blade). After test-fitting and final trimming, the decking veneer may be glued down, using contact cement (Pliobond, W eldwood, etc.) or acetate glue (Testors, Ambroid, etc.); see Fig. 8C. Pins may be used to hold the veneer down at the edges; when removing pins, a tiny drop of water at each pin hole will close it. holes may be drilled before or after gluing down the main deck pad. If done before, mark the hole positions on the veneer so they can be located and reopened conveniently; if bored afterwards, care must be taken to prevent splintering the decking veneer. Bore the mast holes with a l/4" auger bit, being careful to bore at the correct angle of rake (slant of mast aft- measured from plans) D. while avoiding any tilting to port or starboard. Depths of 1V2" should be enough. An auger bit will do a cleaner boring job than a twist drill, if it's sharp; it may be mounted in a gimlet handle, like a corkscrew, instead of in a bit . Take your time. The main deck pad consists of a 1V4"-wide sheet of veneer with five l/4"-wide scribe lines. The forward end should be trimmed to fit the bow bulwarks closely (The aft end is not a critical fit.) and the veneer may be glued in place as with the side pieces of decking (Fig. 8D) . Nort AUG.N Waterways and covering board {optional}.- The FAIR AMERICAN model in the Rogers Wl'r}f 7'NIC~f~~~ OF 8Ef}MS Collection has scantily detailed inboard bulwarks, leaving many details to be guessed at. Waterways 'I r'J..IJNI( E'!JG..!;, and the covering boards are absent though they certainly would have been present on the actual vessel. F. BULWARK~ 11ND If your model is intended to replicate the Rogers model as much as possible, then disregard waterways W!7TERW,qyg G. CRoss--­ and make the deck plank lie to the bulwarks as neatly as possible, filling any gaps with tiny amounts SEC'r!ON of Plastic Wood carefully tamped in place with a thin applicator stick or piece of wire. The waterways and covering board, as near as can be guessed, should be pieced up as shown in Fig. 8F. The waterway plank is made from 3/32" square basswood strip, beveled 1/32" on its inboard edge as in Fig. 8H. This piece should be steamed until very flexible, then glued and pinned in place, working from the bow aft. When dry, sand the inboard face carefully until very smooth. Capping the waterway is a covering board, 1/16" thick by 1/32" wide, which overlaps the waterway bevel slightly, as in Fig. 8F and G. This should likewise be steamed to shape or the forward ends can be cut from 1/16" basswood sheet to facilitate fitting to the bow. Sand carefully after installation. Framing the quarter deck. - Three deck beams are to be made from basswood strips V4" wide by 5/16" thick, tapered to 3/16" thick at the sides where the beams rest on the "ledge" (Fig. 9A and B). WHt;N DRILLING. OU7' Note that the after beams will have less crown, due to a constant curve of the camber as discussed in SCUPPERS, S7"AR7' Wl TH # 60 DRILL FR0h1 the section on the main deck. With the beams glued in place, their tops should be faired with 120-grit BOTH SIDES UNTil HOL£.!3 sandpaper glued to a flexible batten 1" wide by 10" long, working from side to side gently and with M££'r. REPEAT' WI'T'H uniform pressure over the beams; this will eliminate any irregular spots on the beams which could A 1/t~' D~ILJ.... distort the contours of the planked deck. At this time, a toeing beam for the quarter deck bulkhead should be fitted, using any scrap material on hand. 12 13 FRAMING THE FIG.. '· The cabin bulkhead (Fig. 9C, D) may now be cut from the 1/16" thick basswood sheet provided and fitted with the cabin doors, either scribing them in place or making individual doors and installing GuARTcR DEcK B. them in frames cut out of the bulkhead. If you wish to exercise your skill and imagination in making tl SECTION the finer details, this is a good place to start. BEAMS REST The bulkhead and part of its supporting frame is capped by the great beam (Fig. 9D, 2) made ON MACHINE .... from lfs" x 1/16" basswood strip. The ends of this beam lie flush with the outside of the bulwarks. C.ARVI:D DEC..K B~M The detailing of the cabin bulkhead may be finished by adding moldings (Fig. 9D, 3) under the great J...EDGE 00.15 beam and at the foot of the bulkhead, using 1/16" x 1/32" wood strips. The bulkhead may now be primed and painted the finished color of the bulwarks (See section on painting.). Quarter deck planking. - For best effect, this deck should be planked with individual pieces TOE NG. 1/16" thick by 9/32" wide, lengths to suit. All planks are tapered aft; moreover, the seams follow M/tiN D£el( the curves of the waterways, converging aft as shown in the plans and Fig. lOA. When the deck planks have been set in place and sanded smooth, they may be stained to match the color of the main deck, or tinted slightly with a redish ochre to suggest an oiled pine deck. Quarter decks were often oiled and kept scrupulously clean to collect fresh water during tropic rainstorms. Contemporary DECK 5£AMS (3) descriptions of fresh water served up from the ship's stores will provide ample reason for this practice. A simple alternative to quarter deck planking is the scribed veneer provided in the kit. Here all fJ,/f• WIDE ; ~b ' TliiC}( AT plank seams run straight and parallel to the center line, making this a simple matter of installation. /:_; .lf"Ut "I..ONG- , WGTHS The decking veneer may be filled and stained as mentioned. Its sides and aft edge may be cut roughly Tb 5£ SHC'RIENED AS to shape, then filed flush with outboard hull surfaces after gluing. C. R£"

-! MIIKE4 BU/..KHIOIJ[) FI?OM T PAPER~~ OD1 1/16 SHEEr: e -[!-DO - I H~ES BUI... KHEf'tD DOORS -SC~/8£1) OI:) I \ .-1 .. A !_N _f~~-l Q_R.frt§RI~'r£1>. I tv------I I \ •l'Ai .... / ...... ------I l'V.... / ......

D. ' Rails.- The rails which cap the bulwarks are again modified in the Rogers model, being flush QuARTER DEcK CONSTRUCTION S£G.UENCE with the bulwark ceiling (inboard bulwark planking which covers the timberheads), whereas in GR£nr BEIJM general practice it lapped the inboard side as it did outboard .(Fig. 11A). The main rail caps the (j) DECX bulwarks aft to the fancy rail and continues aft as a simple molding strip (see plans). The fancy B£RMS 4 rail caps the raised portion of the bulwarks abreast the main mast and goes aft to cap the quarter CABIN deck at its waterways. The hances, or moldings which blend the fancy rail with the main rail, can Bu~J(HE~D be steamed or carved to shape and carefully finished. In fitting the rails, end-pieces should be joined with scarphs as shown in Fig. 12. This practice applies both to steam-bent and sawn pieces. Wales and "black strake". -Using dividers, measure and mark the top of the main wale from Fo~W!!IRD or£ HOW TOP OF BVI...WARXS ~ rAIRS WITH TOP 0~ GU~~­ the underside of the main rail at approximately 2" intervals. Drive lill pins at these marks for guides. D£CI( ,4T T'H£ SIDS. On each side, the main wale is made of two strips 1/16" x 5/32" which are glued and pinned tightly 14 15 fl. BuLWARk D~TIJILS F./G.. 11. 15. SE.C.T' ION AT GuN PORT FANcr RtJIJ.... oR "DI?tFr" c(F!Wct R~JL .... ~Fr) MIHN h- -J f PIN R8JJ.. "INBOflRl> EXTENSIOJI FiG.. 13, RIJI/... _I OF Mll/N 0 R~!J.... W/JL£S fiND ''BJJJCK SiR!JK£ fl. B.

"BUJCJr. S'rR!JI(E." NoTE 'TH~'T INBOARD £DG-ES OF MAIIJ-<¥- FRNcr RIJIJ...S ~RE FIJJSII 1/a"t Y3:l-- R~tlt.. gCf1RFS Wl TH /N80fJRD SURFflCES ot= Bl.ILWH~. .<_pc.%i.)(~6~ ~w,q~s .... SHIPs R.IJ/1... SJMPUFIED ------....,. i ,<. PIJW,fS ROUNDED PIIR.TS TRRNSOM F !G.. 1#. OF REJII..S fiRE. 8/MII..AI?J..:r 8/f)£ VIEW tlOIN~D. DorTED LINE A. SHOWS SHIP SCBR!=; USE 1/e I WOO.[) B. g OUD UNE SNOWS SHEEr FOR S!MPJ....JFI£D SCARF FOR 'mf.WS0\1 PIECE MODEL.

\ \ 0 ~ 0 BorroM oF T/i:hN~M P!EC FIG.. 1Z. WHEN FI+IREt> together. When the glue dries, remove the guide pins and snip the other lills close to the surfaces of WITH COUNrER. the wales, filing them flush. The "black strake", logically named for. the calor it was often painted, is glued and pinned above the main wale, leaving no unsightly seams between the two. When the glue has set, remove the pins, swelling the pin holes shut with tiny drops of water. These parts should now be sanded and primed; D. take care with their finish as they will be conspicuous features on the finished model. The transom. - A piece of Vs" thick basswood sheet is provided to cap the stern and form the £. SE.C.TION taffrail. Since the only curvature lies athwartships, the grain of the wood sheet should be vertical, ~Q lJARTER PIECE. parallel to the center line at the stern (Fig. 14A). Using the transom outline as shown in the plans, Sheet 1, make the pattern slightly oversize and glue the rough-cut piece to the stern, wetting the aft side of the wood and pinning as necessary. When dry, the bottom side of the transom should be faired carefully with the counter using file and sanding blocks (Fig. 14B). The transom outline should . then be retraced and worked to its final shape. Both sides of this piece should be carefully sanded until paper-smooth; the inboard side may then be primed. I I NltME i3orJRD The outside moldings for the transom are as shown in Fig. 14D, beginning with the quarter . MOJ..l)JNGS pieces which are best made from 1/16" basswood sheet cut across the grain in :Y8"-wide strips. Wet one side so the strip curls the other way and glue in place; using lill pins may split the wood strips so tape or rubber bands will hold things in place better. When dry, trim the quarter pieces to 3/16" widths, lapping the outboard side of the transom by 1/16" (See plans, Inboard Profile, Sheet 1.) . . Bridging the quarter pieces and the main wales are the fashion pieces which must be cut from the solid, fitted to the quarters, and finished to shape after being glued in place. The moldings which frame the nameboard are made from 1/16"-square strips, sanded to half-round sections, glued, and pinned to the transom. See Fig. 14D, E. 17 16 The gallery lights are left to the last and may be awkward to make at this state; however, the components can be made from basswood materials furnished, you may wish to try other woods whose finished dimensions and moldings of the transom will allow more accurate placement of the windows. combinations of hardness, fine grain, and flexibility or resistance to breakage lend themselves to this A Bristol board pattern of the transom should be made, marking carefully the position of each work. Boxwood, holly, maple, birch, cherry, or pearwood are all very suitable and one or more should window frame and cutting each window out of the pattern. The gallery lights may then be traced be available at nearby lumber suppliers. Don't forget the possibilities of laminated veneers, wood directly on the transom, using this pattern. The windows can be carved into the transom piece to shavings, cabinet trim veneers, even three-ply birch aircraft veneer. Some modelmakers have even about 1/16n depth, setting the frames in afterward. An alternative is to cut each window frame made these parts from brass and copper (easy to bend to exact curves) and soldered the pieces from very thin wood such as 1/3 2" 3·ply birch or from very heavy Bristol board, gluing each frame togther for a very tough, permanent construction that's easy to finish. Metalworkers, here's your chance. to the transom piece. The former method was used on the Rogers model with middling results; the Begin with making the cheek knees, first cutting them to profile, then finishing them to plan latter method, or variations thereon, should prove tidier and perhaps easier for some modelmakers. dimensions. Fit them first to the hull; then, if each knee is made in two parts (Fig. 16A), join the In fashioning the gallery lights, seven in all, bear in mind that three were dummy windows with roughed-out parts and glue them to the stem. Final shaping of the knees can be done when they are no glass: the center light (in way of the head) and the end lights were just painted wood in position, using small half-round files and sanding blocks. panels. For modelmakers wishing to add glazing to the gallery windows, this should be done only to the second, third, fifth, and sixth window frames. Stern post, stem, and keel. - The stern post is made from 3I 16" x 5I 16" stripwood, to be tapered as shown in the plans. It may be made slightly over-long, then carefully filed flush with the keel rabbet. The stem post should be made and fitted next, using 3I16J' basswood sheet provided. Cut it to hull plan dimensions, joining it carefully to the bow as shown in Fig. ~A. The bottom of the stem <2 D HG.. 16. G.I9WAON- ~ KEEJ..... ST£M, 4-...;T£/?N rosr kNEE~_/' ft. Vottv£10YOI?I( MOf)/t=l£1) FOR MOD£J.... ~ 0 -- ~ - --, HEAD~~IL.~NE£ I AS SH"'PW I FROM --~ I reASJC I WOOD &nt.l(. 1 1 CJIIIM~ WOoD I

Fic;-.17. RuDDER ._ RuDDER Po!?T

NorE HOW B. I?AIJ.. FO/.J...OW!J BEJ..t)w SECTION 'nit181.£ -1/0M£ Of:: BOI...WA~I(S.

Quarter deck rail and . - Make and install the paired stanchions on the fancy rail as shown in Fig. 18, measuring all groupings carefully from the plans and drilling all holes for the doweled ends at the proper angles. The stanchions are capped by the quarter deck rail which is glued in place and fastened securely with pins. Hances are carved and fitted at the forward rail ends, S£C.TIDN OF the quarter cavils glued in place, and the rail assemblies primed and painted. At the bow, the timberheads, knight heads, and chocks are made and positioned as measured ~ from the plans. It is advisable to mortise or dowel all of these parts for greatest strength. The catheads CcHF!rrE~ in the original vessel were heavy oak knees, selected for the most desirable shape, and cut to form GK.OOY£ as nearly alike as possible. On the model, the horizontal arms will measure 'Ysn overall; the upright (OPTIONAJ....) arms (bolted to bulwarks) will be 11/16" overall. The angle will vary according to how you tapered 20 21 the thickness of the model's bulwarks, but the ends of the horizontal arms (at the catfall sheaves) should lie at 3/3 2" above the level of the main rail. You may make the catheads as nearly alike as you wish, bearing in mind that this was not always the case in the original vessels. Transom - black with gilt moldings and lettering. Counter - black with red curtains and tassels. PAINTING THE HULL Masts - umber with black tops, topgallants, and poles. By now, all parts of the hull that are to be painted should be primed and sanded in preparation - black outboard; red inboard. for the finish coats. There should be no wood defects showing, no grease marks, and no evidence of - umber with black heel and pole. sloppy brush work. In all subsequent painting, use good quality sable hair brushes, rounds or flats Yards, flag staff - black to your preference. The brushes should be fairly wide for most work: #4 rounds or Vs" flats for Gaff and boom - umber with black ends. small or narrow surfaces, # 12 rounds or V " flats for large areas; for fine detail, use #00 and #0 rounds. 2 Lantern- black with gilt frames. Keep all brushes immaculately clean and avoid paint buildup in the bristles near the ferrules. Wash Decks, pumps, gratings- natural oiled wood. the brushes in soap and water after each day's use. In applying paint, flow on a film that does not dry in a streaked pattern, nor so thick that it MOUNTING THE MODEL hides detail or sags, forming unsightly "curtains". If you are right-handed, start at the right-hand The painted hull should be mounted on pedestals (or keel blocks if preferred) and test-fitted end of the painting surface and work to the left, making all brush strokes in left-to-right movements. to its finished baseboard. After this dry-run, transfer the hull to a working baseboard (a simple In this way, the trailing end of each brush stroke blends neatly with the starting end of the previous softwood or plywood slab, retaining the pedestals) for sparring and rigging. stroke. Left-handed painters should work in the opposite way, starting from left and making right-to-left A baseboard for display pur-poses should be made from select seasoned hardwood whose calor strokes. If the painting surface is small, you may be able to paint the length of the area in one stroke; and grain will contrast pleasingly with the basic form and colors of the model. Since the hull bottom try to minimize the number of brush strokes in any event. The above applies to the fast-drying hobby is white with predominantly light colors topside, a dark baseboard will make the hull stand out paints, such as Floquil, which are now available in most stores which stock model-making supplies. dramatically. Mahogany is the usual choice as with staining and filling, it ea~ be toned a deep red or Users of the more traditional media -lacquers, enamels, and signwriters' colors- should follow a rich walnut calor. Other suitable hardwoods might include cherry, walnut, teak, and brown oak; painting procedures as recommended by manufacturers and industrial consumers. these may or may not require filling and staining. It is desirable to have the baseboard's dimensions Scribing the waterline.- Fig. 19 shows the mounting of the model so its waterline (L.W.L.) is approach the overall dimensions of the model when rigged; this gives the model a more impressive parallel to the baseboard or work table top. A height gauge with a scriber tip is easily made and appearance, particularly if the finish has a gloss that reflects the model. In addition, if the model is will make a very useful addition to the modelmaker's tool crib. The mounted model is set on a moved and accidentally hits something, the baseboard is more apt to receive the shock instead of the perfectly flat, smooth surface (a piece of plate glass or formica counter top) and the gauge is drawn spars and rigging. around the model, scratching the paint surface lightly with the scriber. Repeat until the mark is MOUNTING OF MODEL FJG: 19. HEIGJtT GIUXl£ easily seen, yet does not chip the primer coat or tear up wood grain. The resulting scribe line will be easy to follow with masking tape or, if you paint to the line freehand, the tiny groove forms a ~. barrier to transgressions by the paint film. o:o- Masking tape.- A flexible masking tape such as "Bear" brand (Norton Abrasives) will give a sharp masking line with little or no "bleeding". The applied tape should be burnished along its edges, using a burnishing tool or the rounded chrome cap from a fountain pen. Masking fine lines can be done with drafting tape such as "Chart Pak" brand, following the same burnishing procedures. Mas~ing tape should not be left on the model for more than a few hours and all masking surfaces must be clean (Use HEIGHT OF /....W.L. (I...OAD SCRJ B£R T lP H8Gii7' a tack rag.). The tape should be removed as soon after painting as possible. IS "{)\JUS lED B'f WATER IJN£) lt/ STERN Col or scheme. - Based on the Rogers Collection model, the following paint schedule is suggested: MOVING. SCR/88, 1 (X) EQUIIJ...S H£/G.H7' OF TIGHTENING CUJMP Hull bottom below wales- antique white (Variation: antique white between wales and water S~.€W. line; G.W. cream below water line). 1-. W /.... ~~ BOW {Y). OR ...... f I I Wales and black strake- black. Bulwark plank (outboard) - yellowish buff (Mix Mud or Depot Buff with rust in equal parts.) . #813 P~DESIIJI- MfJr BE IIE/G.IIT£N£D BY SOLD£RINC:.. J...RR.6£ BRfJSS WASII~RS TO BOTTOM 1 FILING. FLOSii wj 1 Sheer strake (first bulwark plank below main rail, outboard side) -black. PED£STfll... BM£ (PouSH IJFT£/(WI!~DS) o~ .Br MOVNr!NG.. Main- and fancy rails - black tops, gilt outboard edges, red inboard edges. P~D£Si~J... TO 11 11/IRJ)WOO/) /)!SC OF SU/r/181.£ f/E-;a.Jir Planks between main- and fancy rails, quarter deck rails and stanchions - black. If you are finishing your first baseboard and are receptive to the more recently developed wood Beak head above sweep of lower side of main wale- black. sealers and finishes, consult your local paint dealers for advice on what to use and how. With the Faces of cheek knees, head rails, middle rails, head rail knees, figurehead, and trailboards - gilt. vast array of exotic concoctions presently available, it is extremely important to select stains, fillers, Catheads- black above bulwarks; red below. and finishes which are mutually compatible and do not require exotic application techniques. Bulwarks, inboard - Red (Mix scarlet with a fe~ drops of brown.). For keel fixtures, pedestals such as Model Shipways #812 and #813 are suggested; see Fig. 9A. Hatch coamings, bitts, capstan, binnacle, ladders, gun carriages, masts from deck levels to level Alternative mounts would be keel blocks of a contrasting type of wood such as walnut or ebony. of rails- red. Barely visible, and highly effective for that reason, are polished steel pins made from drill rod. Almost 22 23 MAKING MASTS AND SPARS. All spars are drawn to model scale in Sheet 2 of the plans. From the dowel stock provided in the any imaginative mounting technique will work if it is well finished, but restraint in the use of gaudy kit, match each dowel by diameter to each spar in the plans and label it accordingly. Do not trim the materials or complicated fixtures is recommended. Remember, it's the model, not the baseboard that dowels to their exact specified lengths, but leave them about one inch over-length during the tapering you are showing off! process. All of the spars require tapering to some degree and this is best done with a fairly coarse Final inboard details.- All hatches, bitts, pumps, capstan, binnacle, steering wheel, padeyes, flat file following the sequences in Fig. 21A. If you find yourself tearing up splinters or getting rippled ringbolts, and cleats should be secured to the main deck. Many of these items are furnished as castings .. chatter marks" on the dowels, the file you're using is too coarse; select one with a finer cut. The which must be cleaned up with files and sandpaper, primed, and painted. The cast fittings can be rounding process is finished with sandpaper, twirling the spars in one hand while sanding briskly with glued to the deck with either epoxy or contact cement. coarse paper. Finish with the finer grades of paper but without twirling the dowels. If you have The guns should also be mounted at this time. The rigging of the tackles and breech lines is access to a lathe, this can make the process a lot faster with less risk of .. flats" or .. egged" cross-sections. optional and these materials are not included in the kit. If you wish to rig the guns, then you should With care, spars can be turned by chucking the dowels in a power drill clamped in a bench vise. order an additional 5 dozen 3/32" single blocks and 3 dozen 3/32" double blocks, plus fine cordage In the final sanding, it is important to get rid of all cross-grain sanding marks which otherwise will and strapping wire. The breech lines, inhaul- and tackles are rigged as shown in Fig. 20. It is show badly if the spar is to be stained. A well-sanded spar will be glass-smooth with a soft sheen. advisable to glue the gun carriages to the deck with contact cement after eyebolts for purchase blocks After tapering, the spars can be trimmed to their proper lengths. Spar tips are apt to suffer a have been fitted; the gun barrels may be removed after fitting the breech lines and stored away for bit in the tapering process, so it is best to get rid of the last half inch or so at each end. Not all spars permanent mounting at a later date. If you decide not to rig the gun tackles, glue the carriages to the are symmetrical in taper; in fact, only the yards are this way. Fig. 21B shows the usual proportions deck anyway; they will be a nuisance to install at any later date. of tapers, but these should be checked against the spar plan to insure accuracy. After tapering, the heels of and topgallant masts must be squared by building them up p, :eo. with small wood slabs; use leftover pieces of 1/16" basswood sheet. Fig. 21C shows the basic sequence; note that the squaring process in steps 1 and 2 follows the same sequence as Fig. 21A, steps 1 ' 4. The fid holes are squared with a small needle file. Squaring of the mast heads (Fig. 21D) calls for careful measurements of all flats and confining them to their plan dimensions. The side flats for the bibbs are simply continuations of the mast head flats above them, but they feather out as they descend. The heads are similarly squared but they are not fitted with bibbs; rather, a shoulder must be built up (Fig. 23B) using the method shown in Fig. 22C. The lower yards and yards also call for additional treatment if you want to explore the finer aspects of 18th century spars. The middle one-quarter of each of these yards was left in its 8-sided state with the extremities rounded, and if the octagonal sections are to be shown, they must be built up as shown in Fig. 22A and B. This work should be done after the yards have been tapered. At the same time, the heavy shoulders at the yardarms ought to be built up in similar fashion. After piecing and gluing, the mid-section is tapered in its 4-sided state, followed by 8-siding and careful blending into the round parts. Sheave holes at the arms are first bored out, scored with a fine-pointed knife blade, the scoring then being smoothed out with a round needle file. Having tapered all spars and added all squared ends and 8-siding where necessary, you can now attend to the smaller details. Begin with cleats for yards and the main gaff, then bowsprit details, gaff- and boom jaws, and trucks. The bowsprit- and mast caps are included in the fittings set as castings, though it is preferable to make your own. Alternative caps can be made from hardwood such as birch, maple, or boxwood, or try one of the numerous sheet plastics available, such as Plexiglas or Lucite. This leaves the fore and main tops and topgallants to deal with. Castings of the tops are provided, but you will find your own efforts more rewarding and probably stronger. Repairing or replacing a Final outboard details. -The fore tack boomkins should now be securely glued to the beakhead, lead casting in this area is a heartbreaking job which no model-maker ever forgets. Castings or no, the stern lantern mounted to the transom, and the gangway stanchions set in the fancy rails. Check you should begin by making the bibbs from 3/32" thick wood sheet, tapering them as shown in the for any overlooked ringbolts and padeyes (Check both the hull- and rigging plans.) and touch up spar plan. Over the bibbs the top is fitted, and if building this from scratch, you should first make any imperfections in the paint finish. Your model is now at the stage where the original vessel would the trestletrees (y8n x 3/16"), chocks and crosstrees (1/16" x 3/32u), top (1/16u birch 3-ply), and have been launched. In colonial times, such an occasion would have been attended by a christening bolsters (5/32" x 5/32"). The chock which sits between the trestletrees forward acts as a spacing ceremony wherein the vessel was .. toasted" with a stiff tot of spirits after she was set afloat. Perhaps block for the topmast 'heel which keeps the topmast's center axis parallel to that of the lower mast. now would be the proper time for a similar blessing of your own little ship. Cheers! Prior to gluing the top veneer in place, drill the holes for the futtock plates. 24 25 TRP£RING. SPfiRS A. PROGRESSION OF *I=LitrS •

V!£ A C.OnRSE OR MEDIUM FJ...AT' B. FilE,

0 RO'rn'T"'E 180 o Rctrt!T£ ~0' ni'\ Ro;-AT/2 180 (j) ® @ ~ 8"SIDED • YRI!~· /'li:OPOR7'10Ni or: TI!PER$:J ® 0 ~nsrc______, c. /. 0 0' YARDARM SJDED SHOULDeRS ®8 ... IZ) 16 ..·-8/DED 'J:'~ GIIFF, =-:!;113~;?~·===~-2A~5=-=:==:-;; c. ~ ~ aoo~ cc=---~l------SGUARINC> MI1ST 1-IEE't...S TOPMASTS " T~Ll.j MASTS)

BLEND "SGUfiR£• TO , 11 ROUND 11'\ SQUARED \t)

FIG.. Z3. FOR£ .-fiND MAIN ToPS

Q) ® @

SGUI}J? J:ic;. oF LowER M~sr HE~Ds SHEAVE HOLE !=OR. Cflp 7£Nf'H FOR CHOCk, S~AT' TOPS/Ill.. V/V I=OW'D S/f)E~~-.:\---:;::;;;-; 9 "-SI D£1) AND V~Rl> TYE ~ T,.p£Kfl) I AS IN A. B YliRPARM SHCXJI..­ . D~s, Bur Nor ROfJNDSO. FJG-. Zl.

26 27 KNoTS FOR SHIP M oDE:J... s Fig. 23A shows the top assemblies as they should look at this stage; primed and sanded smooth, they are painted black. The topgallants are similarly con­ structed, minus the bibbs and the veneer topping. The crosstrees may be sawn or steamed to shape, preferably from hardwood such as boxwood, birch, or perhaps best, from bamboo split from an old fishing pole, or from chopsticks. Before fabricating the topgallants, you should get the lower mast caps over the topmast heads; otherwise, the caps must OVERHAND KNOT A ROUHD TURN later be split and glued together around the topmasts. The heels of the topmasts and topgallant masts may ToPMAST now be fidded and the major mast elements assembled. HEELS TWO HIILF HITCJIES Fig. 24 shows topmast heels lie in the tops. In all aspects of model sparmaking, preparation of surfaces for finish work is of paramount importance. Each piece must be sanded glass-smooth and free of any imperfections before assembly. Primer coats and stains are one-shot applications; any mistakes will show and are often impossible to correct. In cases of painting, two finish coats are probably all that will be allowable; it will be impossible to sand many inaccessible areas between coats, hence the need for careful preparation. Use a frisket knife (Xacto #4 or #9) to scrape or flick off any dust or wood particles painted into the surfaces. SQUARE" KNOT CLOVE HITCH RIGGING Your model's rigging falls into two categories: G!

of this booklet for those who wish to scale the rigging as accurately as possible. If using micrometers 1 appeals to you, here is a very good opportunity to use one. A FI1KEt>" Generally speaking, when selecting the size of thread for a given member of the rigging, it is EYE SPLICE better to err on the small side. Many beautifully crafted hulls have lost their looks of realism because of a heavy, clumsy-looking rigging job. Tarred rigging. -- Stockholm tar was the usual preservative for standing rigging and it was dark brown, almost black, in color. Mix burnt umber and black in equal parts and you will have about the right shade. Some riggers added turps and black paint to the tar to harden it and give it a rich, glossy R£PICAT black which had a very handsome appearance. CS SEIZE In tinting standing rigging, it is suggested that you try a thin paint -Floquil, japan colors, or W/GLU£, thinned enamels. Avoid a "jet black" color; even blackened tar had a slight brownish tinge to it. A little gloss will not hurt either, for it accentuates the lay of the rope or serving and imparts depth and THROitT SEIZIN& "life". This can be done to the Floquil paints (which are dead flat without additives) by mixing in a SUORT BEIZIHS..

little "Crystal-Cote" prior to painting. When dry, rub down the rigging by drawing it through your Ft(;.25. / fingers; this will eliminate any fuzzy appearance due to loose thread fibers. 28 29 FtG-. Z6. Cordage. - Running rigging of this period consisted mainly of manila rope, a very supple-fibered f cordage that ran smoothly through blocks and was easy to handle. New manila rope was a golden FITTING THE straw c~lor which tended to bleach on exposure to sun and salt water. Manila running rigging was A. CHI/IN PLBTES I seld~m, tf ever, tarred, and would rot out quickly if oiled. Depending on your tastes, this rigging can be tmted to resemble new stuff or old and can vary from a rich tan to a silvery weathered gray. RAKES O!= CHfiiN- f Cotton cordage, as supplied in the kit is too white and must be dyed; linen thread from the spool will P/...fJ/ES MUS i simulate bleached rigging well, but its calor can be deepened to simulate new rope. BE IN LINE WliH,' I To dye this stuff, you can use any one of the commercial dyes for fabrics available from stores RtJKES O!= TII£/R R£SP£C.T/V£ 8/kJ(..f I dealing with yard goods. Avoid dyeing the thread in tea or coffee; the tannic acids in these brews will srsrs -18HROL'l>S.f I 1 rot out the most durable of natural fibers. Paint will stiffen thread and oil stains will rot it; however, "Flo-Stains", made by Floquil Paints, will work, but they must be thinned or the line will be tinted too I I dark. Maple "Flo-Stain" is about the right calor. Perhaps the best tinting for thread is liquid wax shoe polish. There are several different brands offering brown polish in varying shades and tones which can be mixed with neutral polish to obtain a lighter shade. In using these polishes, you are not only tinting the thread, but you are also coating it with c.---. preservative which will extend its life. When dry, draw the thread through your fingers and this will lay down any surface fuzz and add a mild sheen which adds life to the line's appearance. Knot tying. -If overscale rigging doesn't spoil a good model's appearance, clumsy knots and seizings certainly will. Fig. 2 5 shows a variety of knots, hitches, seizings, and simulated splices which are essential for neat, strong rigging details. You should practice tying all of them, using your left hand to steady the thread, or to "feed" cordage; your right hand to manipulate or guide the thread BowsPRtT GAMMONING. FIG.. Z7. end, using tweezers as needed. Practice tying all of these until you can do them without fumbling or looking at these instructions for assistance! Bear in mind that the neatest knot !Work will come to (j) START ,qr BOWBPRIT @ MRKEhalyards, and other heavy running rigging specified in the rigging tables at the end of this book. The finer white cordage will do for lower yard-and topsail yard braces, whips, etc., but the topgallant running rigging may ~-LAST 'Tl.1f:N look best if the finer sizes of sewing thread are used. FIRST TVRN fe..OVE. THROt.JGI.{ Linen cordage. -For those who want museum grade rigging, linen has yet to be surpassed for ROVE THROOOH APT' END OF its durability and ship-shape looks. The rigging tables in this book give a list of cordage sizes to kit f=OW'D eJD OF @AMMON HOLE. scale, and those planning to rig their model with Model Shipways' linen need only match linen sizes GfiMMav HOJ.£. in the Model Shipways catalog with cordage diameters in the rigging tables. When rigging with linen, it is generally not advisable to use other kinds of cordage (cotton, nylon, etc.) on the model, due to setting tiny wedges around the masts at deck level. The heel of each lower mast can be prevented from their differing habits of shrinkage and expansion which can result in some odd-looking rigging leads. shifting by driving a head-less wire brad into the end grain (pointed end down) and then driving the Linen can be tinted and waxed as described previously. Most of the linen is 3- or 4-stranded with a heel pin into the bottom of the mast hole. Crude but effective. distinct rope-lay, making it possible to put in miniature splices and achieve detail and realism not Fitting the chainplates. - This task has been delayed until now because it is essential to have easily attained with other types of cordage. the masts stepped in order to determine the slant of each (or ) and its corresponding Stepping the masts. -The fore and main masts may be stepped temporarily assembled or the chainplate. Following the procedure shown in Fig. 26, mark the position of each chainplate on the job can be done piecemeal, beginning with the lower masts and rigging, followed by topmasts, topmast channels, notching the latter to receive the chainplate straps. A string may now be used to project rigging, etc.; this is simply a matter of personal preference. The lower masts must be stepped at their the slant of each shroud to where its chainplate is to be fastened to the black strake. This should be precise angles of rake (derived from plans) and must not "lean" to port or starboard. If, as suggested done carefully -slight deviations will be noticeable - and the chainplate hole marked and drilled ( #75 drill). Strap the with the #439 strap rings and trim each chainplate, bending the previously, you have bored oversize mast holes, you can adjust the angles of rake very easily by 31 30 upper end in~o a? open ~ye; whe~ the deadey~ strap is hooked to the chainplate, close the eye. Set these assembhes mto their respective notches m the channels and cap the latter with stripwood as shown on the hull plan and Fig. 26B. The chainplates may now be pinned to the back strakes. Paint the deadeyes, straps, chainplates, and channel caps; touch up the bulwarks and wales if thei~ finish was marred in this process. The bowsprit and. g~mo~ing. - ~e bowsprit is seated between the knightheads with its heel socketed to the ~owspnt bitts. Smce there IS no chock at the knightheads to hold the bowsprit down t? the rails, the gammoning and bowsprit must be relied on to hold this spar in place. Those who wish to secure the bowsprit as firmly as possible can glue or pin it at the knightheads. The gammoning is rigged as shown in Fig. 27, using medium black cordage which has been heavily waxed. Draw all turns around the bowsprit tightly and finish as directed. Sevvi~g. - As yo~ will. notice in the. rigging notes, many items of the standing rigging were covered :VIth .a ~rote~tive twme called serv~ng. This prevented chafing from sails and moving parts of the runmng nggmg; It also prevented crushmg of rope fibers when the shrouds, stays, etc. were placed B. one over the other around the mastheads. On the scale of this model, serving is possible to do with very convincing results, and a few perfectionists will undoubtedly want to add this nicety to their models. Fig. 28 illustrates the basic principle of serving; the serving mallet (for manual use) is very simple to make and the only other necessity is any sort of contrivance that will stretch taut the cordage to be served. Most serving on this model is over short lengths, so it is not necessary to mechanize this process. If you plan to do extensive serving work in subsequent models you might consider making a serving accessory to your fl. lathe or jury-rigging a serving machine using an old sewing machine motor. This matter has been FIG-. Z9. discussed in several advanced books and journal articles on ship modelling. Any fine sewing thread, such as stranded nylon or polyester, will make excellent serving twine; tinting can be done after serving, and it is advisable to coat the completed service with a clear flat lacquer or flat varnish. Service ends are started and finished with several hitches which are set with adequate scope for seizings. The lower shrouds are seated over the mast tackle pendants, beginning white resin glue. with the first starboard shroud pair, then the first port, followed by second starboard and second port. /'\ TSN!ION R.lXJND~ TURN SIMP' 'ru.-,.... Leaving the mast tackles to be rigged later, the shrouds should now be set up with deadeyes and 00~ ~r~CV roo lanyards. Starting from forward with the first-seated shroud, form a loop in its lower end and start a throat seizing (Fig. 2 5) . Before tightening the seizing, work it into a position where, when the is inserted, the loop can be pulled snug around it at the correct distance from the lower deadeye. The correct spacing of deadeyes can be scaled from the rigging plan; note also in Fig. 29 SERVING. T/af!TJ.:r the appearance of correctly rigged deadeyes and lanyards. When the throat seizing has been tightened (OPT/ONitL) WOVND4- Gt.J)fl) TJ/Rsf) and set with glue, finish off the rest of the seizings for that shroud and trim its end neatly. If you have trouble maintaining uniform spacing of upper and lower deadeyes, try using a "deadeye claw" as F tG za ~ERvtNs FtG. 31. . . MIHJ..ET shown in Fig. 29C. There are variations on the design and construction of this little gadget, should . and bowsprit shrouds. - The bowsprit is supported outboard by two shrouds (one each you have inclinations to tinker with it. side) and a bobstay from below. The bobstay is seized at its lower end to a hole in the stem knee· With the first deadeye seized in, reeve off the lanyard (Use a figure-8 knot for a lanyard stopper.) it is set up with deadeyes and a lanyard at the bowsprit. The bowsprit shrouds are hooked at thei; and set it up as shown in Fig. 29B, but make the lark's head temporary for later adjustments. The inboard ends to eyes in the main wales; the outboard ends are set up with deadeyes and lanyards as above procedure is repeated for the remaining shrouds in the same order as they are seated at the masthead. In setting them up, beware of pulling the masts out of line; taut shrouds are desirable, but was the bobstay. Deadeyes at the bowsprit are seized into collars as shown in Detail D on the rigging don't overdo. Before rigging the sheer poles and , allow the shrouds to settle in and stretch plan. These collars go around the bowsprit and are tightly set up by lanyards. The bowsprit shrouds for a few days. In the meantime, you can be busy with other elements of the standing rigging or in and. bobstay are seized to t~eir deadeyes as shown in Fig. 29B and Detail B in the rigging plan. When fitting out the yards. settmg up the lanyards, hitch the larks' heads, but do not glue or trim them until later when the Sheer poles and ratlines.- Sheer poles (Fig. 29A) are best made from tough, stringy wood lanyards have stretched out. like bamboo and cut to 1/32" square in section. Cast off the larks' heads on all shrouds of one side, Rigging the lower masts. -All cordage for the fore- . and main mast tackle pendants, lower glue a sheer pole in place, seize it securely, and re-hitch the larks' heads, setting them up for the last shrouds, and stays should be prepared for rigging in that order. The correct lengths of the mast tackle pendants should be scaled from the plans; shrouds and stays should be cut over-length to insure time, glue, and trim. With all sheer poles in place, proceed with the ratlines. Ratline stuff should be of very fine sewing thread; do not give in to the urge to make these lines 32 33 ~ MoR£ £LffBORfire- Mouss- FIG.. ~2. appear prominent in the standing rigging. Heavy ratlines will look very clumsy on your finished model, and if anything, slightly under-scale ratlines will have a more realistic appearance. Hand-in-hand with this problem is that of tying the ratlines to the shrouds: clove hitch them! It's not that hard to do (See Figs. 2 5', 29.) and this model is blessed with relatively few of them, so do the job right. Remember that ra~lines lie parallel to the horizon (Use the model's waterline for reference.) and they are spaced 1 )" apart to scale. Avoid drawing the shrouds together with ratline tension. One way to alleviate this is to pull each ratline's ends apart firmly before trimming; each segment should "sag" slightly between the shrouds. After each side's ratlines have been tied and adjusted, all clove hitches should be touched with thinned white resin glue and thread ends cut when dry. Finally, tiny wooden cleats should be seized to the shrouds as shown in Fig. 34. Use hardwood and glue the cleats to the shrouds before seizing. Fore- and main stays. - These are the heaviest lines in all of the standing rigging; the main stay has in addition a lighter preventer stay which is used for setting a . These stays' upper ends are secured around the mastheads and to themselves by means of a terminal eye and "mouse" as shown in Figs. 31, 32, and Detail C in the rigging plan. Several ways of "raising the mouse" are Topmast rigging. -The rigging of the topmasts follows similar procedure: burton tackle pendants shown in these drawings and it is up to the modelmaker to choose his method; chances are, if you've first, followed by topmast shrouds, topmast backstays, finally the topmast stays (Fig. 33). Again, omitted serving in your model's rigging, the method in Fig. 32 won't justify the effort required. delay rigging the burton tackles and set up the shrouds and backstays as you did the lower shrouds. The upper ends of the topmast stays are the same as their lower counterparts, but their leads below Srt1rs are different, as can be seen in the rigging plan; more on this later. D. Before setting up the topmast shrouds, you must first rig the futtock shrouds and their attendant hardware. The lower deadeyes of the topmast shrouds must be strapped to form a futtock plate MAIN Sr11r (Fig. 33B) which pierces the top and terminates in an eye to which the futtock shroud is hooked. Detail G in the rigging plan shows how futtock shrouds are seized to the lower shrouds; the futtock stave is 1/32" x 1/32" hardwood, similar to the sheer poles in form and function. Futtock shrouds should be rigged very taut, enough to start the lower shrouds slightly; their ratlines are rigged as elsewhere. S~ATING- OF A B FUTTOC.K PJ...8T£S TOPMAST ' RIGGING-

S£:47' FIRS'1' OVER S1'­ SIDE. H£AD VIEW Ert:s F /G.: S 0. MIJST IIJCJ. (oURSt" purchase is rove between a single-becket block on JtBBooM deck and the fiddle block, the hauling end being R!G.G.ING- hitched to the deck block at its strap. FIG-. 35, The fore topmast stay is doubled, seized, and CL£/fr seated over the topmast shrouds and backstays; its DIMENSiaiS two parts lead down to the bowsprit where the !=OR MO££J...: Bowsprit horses. - Rigged port and starboard, 4 ends pass through the bowsprit bees, to port and ~ LON(J. starboard. The stay ends are seized to fiddle blocks these are lifelines for crew members working on 3J3.z' Wll>£ and purchases are rove off as shown in the rigging the bowsprit. Shown on the rigging plan as 1/tr; 'TH!~ plan; the hauling ends are rove through fairlead holes Item #5, they are seized to eyebolts in the at the knightheads and hitched to the bowsprit bitts. bowsprit cap and set up with lanyards to eyebolts 1. FIG.. 5/.f. in the knightheads. They are supported at their mid-points by a stirrup rigged from the fore stay. Bow sPRIT HoRsE' NE"T'T/NG­ The stay is a single stay with a large spliced eye at its upper end which is seated on thumb At their forward ends, the horses are fitted with StMPUFI£0 FOR MoDE"L cleats at the mid-point of the fore topmast head; its lower end passes under an outhaul ring, through two wooden spreaders and a net which was used NETTING. Tlll(£Al> /S Cl..OVE-HI'TCJis:> TO HOF:.S£"5 !tNl> SPRfAPcKS. MESH IS FORMED a sheave in the jibb~om, and is set up to an outhaul tackle under the jib boom (See Fig. 35.). The to furl and stow the . Fig. 36 shows how this ~'[' WE"AVl-'4 S THREAD OVER ~NP UNDER. ; outhaul tackle is belayed to the pinrail in the bow (See belaying pin plan.). An inhaul is seized to netting can be simulated, using very fine sewing Touc.tt AU.. HITC.He3 AND ~OSSJNGS the jib stay outhaul ring, led aft, and belayed to the outhaul tackle's belaying pin. thread. WITH GL..UE. Rigging the yards. - The footropes should be rigged first, followed by the stirrups and Flemish Topgallant rigging.- The fore and main topgallant shrouds are first to be made up. The shroud horses, where applicable. Fig. 37A shows the system of seized eyes and lashings which can be used eyes should fit snugly on the mast shoulder; the lower ends pass through holes in the topgallant crosstrees to effect on your model. In the case of the stirrups, these can be modified, using slightly finer cordage and are set up to the topmast shrouds in fashion similar to the lower futtock shrouds, minus the staves. than the stuff, clove-hitching them to the yards and to the footropes; make an additional The topgallant shrouds have no ratlines. hitch around the yard, glue, and trim. The lower-, topsail-, and yards should next be fitted with their brace pendants, measuring The topgallant backstays are seated over the shrouds; however, they are not set up with deadeyes their scope from the plans, seizing them snugly to the yardarms, and gluing (Fig. 37B) . This method and lanyards, but with runner tackles which are shown on the rigging plan. is also good for the main () gaff vang pendants (Rigging Item #29) and bridles The fore and main topgallant stays are similarly fitting with small eyes at their upper ends and fit (Item #63). Yard tackle pendants, fitted with double blocks, should be seized to the fore and main snugly over the mastheads. The lower end of the main topgallant stay is fitted with bullseyes and lower yardarms, port and starboard; these are shown on the rigging plan, but do not reeve the yard lanyards and is set up to the aft side of the fore topgallant, where the masthead bullseye is strapped tackle purchases as they will be in the way at this time. with wire and hooked to an eyebolt in the aftermost crosstree. The fore topgallant stay leads down to The rigging plan will show a number of blocks strapped to the lower- and topsail yards at their a block at the end of the jibboom and aft to the bow pinrail where it is belayed. quarters (Mid-points) ; these may be tied in place using knot-work shown in Fig. 37C. This method is in fact useful for tying blocks to a variety of points: to stays, crosstrees, shrouds, booms, etc. You will use it often. Mast-, stay-, and burton tackles. - These purchases were used for loading and unloading cargo, getting aboard or overboard, sending heavy gear aloft, and on occasion, setting up the rigging. Lower yards - slings, trusses, and lifts. - The lower yards are suspended at their mid-points by The mast- and burton tackles are rigged both port and starboard; their parts are shown in the rigging rope slings (Fig. 38) and held to the masts by trusses (Fig. 39); Details F and H in the rigging plan plan and listed in the rigging tables. The stay tackles are single units and are similarly described. These offer additional views of this gear; the scope of the slings should be scaled from the model's rigging tackles should now be rove off, hooked, and belayed as shown in the plans; rigging the stay tackles profile. The bridle should be seized together and seated around the masthead and the yard sling fitted should be temporary, however, as they are apt to get in the way of subsequent rigging operations. around the yard before lashing both members together with the lanyard. 36 37 FIG. oZ The lower yard trusses are shown in Fig. 39 and Detail H. The pendants should be made up RIGG!NG OF YIJI?DS individually, minus the purchase blocks, fitted to the yards, and "married", reeving the pendants through the eyes of the opposite parts. The upper purchase blocks can now be seized in (The pendants FoK MOllE"t: rlf. 8'T'II?RUP9 should end about 3'' above the deck.); wire-strapped single-becket blocks should be hooked to the A. ro YARD Wlllt ClOVE- deck and the purchases rove and belayed. HI rCH£9 t4 ~J..UE The lower yard lifts are shown in Fig. 40; the pendants are seized to the yard arms in the same manner as other pendants. After crossing over the lower mast caps, they are led to purchases below; the upper purchase blocks should be midway between deck and cap when the yard is squared. Purchases similar to the truss purchases are rove off and belayed; in so doing, be sure the yard is trimmed level and not "cockbilled", or tilted.

loWER YARD J...JFT~ l.tFT PSNDANTS~ · C.RC>SS. OVER DsrtHL CAP.

liFT NoT£- PVRC!f/ASSS" PENDANTS PASS SE;/....~'(GD TC> FORWARD OF MAST C/....f.ATS TOPMAST SHRO RocwD Tu!i:.N3 WHICH PR~VENT tt£ i:NDS Wtr/1 THE"M FROM S/....IPPIN(J. OFF SG U8R£ KNOT. 'rHE CAPS.

FtG. lfQ

FtG-. ~8. Topsail yards- halyards, parrels, and lifts.- Before sending these yards aloft, seize the lifts to the yard arms in the same way as the brace pendants. You may also wish to make up the topsail LowER YIJ~D halyard tyes, runners, and tackles and reeve them off before seizing the tyes to the yards. Follow the I...OWER YIJKD 8t....IN(3..g FG.59. leads shown in the rigging plan, noting slinging methods (Detail L), and the pendants and lower TRUSSES blocks of the halyard tackles (Detail P.). The standing ends of the topsail yard runners are hooked to eyebolts in the aft ends of the port channels, similar to the halyard tackle pendants. When the topsail yards are slung, the halyards should be trimmed so the yards hang about ~!.(' above the lower

,,,, PO~CMS£ ) PARREL RIBS 6 PI:R YARD F t~ J.f 1.

38 39 The topsail yard parrels should be made up as shown in Fig. 41. The actual numbers of ribs and trucks needed will vary with the delicacy of the finished parts; if you find it difficult to make the ribs as thin and small as specified, use fewer of them or simply omit the glass beads. A1though this detail is very interesting, do not allow it to look heavy or out of proportion with the rest of the Braces.- These are the last items of rigging for your model and they make a pleasant, impressive topsail yard fittings. When the parrels have been assembled (Part of this job may have to be done finale! Begin with the topgallant braces, seize them to the yardarms, reeve them off, and belay them, with the yards rigged aloft.), the hauling ends should be led below, hauled taut, and belayed. This making sure the yards are braced squarely. View the model from directly overhead to be sure of this. tension will cause the yards to "cockbill", but this will be corrected when the lifts are rigged. The topsail braces are next; follow the rigging- and belaying plans for the correct leads and note The topsail yard lifts are standing lifts- their ends are fixed with no hauling parts. Having fitted especially the leads of the fore topsail braces, which go to lead blocks on the main stay. them to the yard arms, it is only necessary to seize the upper ends to the topmast shrouds. This The spritsail yard braces are led to the fore top before going to their belaying points at the seizing is shown in Fig. 33, but the thimble arrangement in the shrouds can be eliminated for simplicity's bulwarks; this yard can be tricky to brace square, so view it from all angles before making fast. The sake; put a seizing around the first shroud pair, just below the point where the lift is to be secured. fore lower braces lead to the main top and to deck; the main braces lead to the fore shrouds below Be sure that the topsail yards hang level and parallel to the lower yards when you have finished the futtock staves before descending to the pin rails. Where these braces cross, be careful not to let adjusting the lift seizings. them foul each other, an easy thing to do if you're impatient. Topgallant yards- halyards, parrels, and lifts. - The top gallant halyards consist of tyes and Finishing touches.- If you have left the gun barrels off the carriages, as advised earlier, glue purchases, the lower purchase blocks being hooked to eye bolts on the tops (over the port trestletrees), them down at this time. If your model has any shiny spots on the hull or rigging due to handling or the hauling ends of the ·purchases going to the port pin rails. The parrels are simple (Detail R), but excessive amounts of glue, these can be eliminated by giving the model an overhaul spraying with a also quite small, so you may wish to simplify them further with some hitches and round turns of your clear flat (or semi-flat) lacquer such as Krylon "matte finish". Warning! Test the lacquer spray on own devising. The yard lifts are rigged in the same way as the topsail yard lifts (Fig. 3 3); however, a piece of wood painted with your model's brand of colors to test for compatibility; if the spray these too can be modified when seized into the shrouds. causes the paint to wrinkle or crack, don't use it on your model! Spritsail yard- parrels and lifts.- The spritsail yard parrels (Detail K) are like the topgallant Your model is now ready for transfer to its finished exhibition baseboard. Handle carefully! If yard parrels, but larger and more conspicuous; in this case, they should be made as shown, and as pride of workmanship justifies, consider a brass name plate to mount on the board; consult the Model neatly as you can. The lifts are running-, or topping-, lifts, being rove through blocks at the bowsprit Shipways catalog for details. cap and belayed to the bow pinrail. Again, care should be taken to "square" the yard properly. This project completed, it is hoped that you have enjoyed building your model of FAIR Main {spanker) boom -lifts and sheet.- The topping lifts are paired; seized to the boom end, AMERJCAN, and that you have found this project an interesting and informative one. You may they are rove through single blocks at the main lower mast head, thence to the lift tackles (Rigging enjoy further reading and first-hand study of contemporary material, in which case we suggest that item #52) which are set up inboard. The spanker sheet is rigged as shown in the rigging plan and you consult the book lists and lists of museums and galleries in the back of this booklet. belayed to its traveler block. While this last item calls for a tiny wood fixed to the side of the block, it may be better simply to hitch the sheet to the block at its under side. the end of the Coil BIBUOGRAPHY main sheet carefully and lay it on the quarter deck. Main {spanker) gaff- halyards and vangs.- The paired vang pendants should be made up, Historical and 'fechnical Sources ical and statistical survey of shipbuilding in the fitted with blocks, and seized to the peak of the gaff. The peak halyard bridles should next be seized *Means In Print, 1978. colonies, including warships built for the Admiralty. If 1} Chapelle, Howard I., 'The History of the American nothing else, this book should bury for all time in place, and to each other, checking their leads and lengths (not too short!) against the rigging plan. the old myth that colonial shipwrights were a bunch The peak and throat halyards are basically alike, each consisting of a runner which passes through Sailing ]'{avy, W . W. Norton, 1949. Bonanza re, print. The standard reference on the development of of ignorant farmers. * a single block at the masthead and is either hooked to an eye in the gaff jaws or seized to the peak 5. Hutchinson, William, A 'Treatise on ]'{aval Archi, American sailing warship design from the colonial bridle. The whip end of the runner is seized to a single-becket block and the halyard whip is rove off period onward. Fair American is not discussed, but tecture, U.S. Naval Institute, 1969. Reprint of the between the runner block and a double block on deck, then belayed. The proportions of the runners there is much useful background information on the 1794 edition. The "naval architecture" is cursory and whips are very important; the runner blocks should not fetch up on the masthead blocks when Continental Navy and the problems of procuring and of less interest than the practical discussions of seamanship, navigation, medicine, and warship drill. the gaff is lowered, nor should the whips be so short in scope that they cannot raise and peak the suitable designs. Provides some wonderful insights to life at sea in VChapelle, 'The History of American Sailing , gaff properly. an 18th century man-of-war. * W. W . Norton, 1935. Bonanza reprint. An earlier Decide now whether you want the gaff raised, as shown in the rigging plan or lowered, as shown @Lever, Darcy, 'The Young Sea Officer's Sheet Anchor, work of a more general nature which includes inter­ in the model photos in this booklet. If raised, you can then rig the vangs so they will keep the gaff Sweetman, 1955. Reprint of the 1819 edition. Prob, esting discussions of colonial designs and vessels of from swinging about aimlessly. A flag halyard can also be rigged from the peak, but you might wish ably the best-illustrated guide to practical seamanship the Revolution. * to consider the period, war conditions, and therefore the flag which may be set on your model. of its period, this is an extremely helpful aid to G)chapelle, 'The Search for Speed under , W . W. visualizing the complexities of the hemp-rigged war, Before rigging the braces ... Finish off the stay- and yard tackles, hook their ends in place, and Norton, 1967. A penetrating analysis of American belay the hauling ends. If you plan to rig staysail halyards, / or sheets, this is a suitable ship of the early 19th century. Coming almost 40 attempts to design fast sailing vessels from the co­ years after Fair Americans time, there are bound to time to do so; if other embellishments like tacks, clewlines, reef tackles, and sheets are of interest, lonial period to the mid-19th century. Many of the be improvements in rigging techniques and fittings study their leads in Steel and Lever and rig them accordingly. Rig all flag halyards and make them 18th century designs are quite startling and their which do not apply to vessels of the 18th century. fast to shrouds or the flagstaff. Rig the fore tack boomkin guys (Rigging Item #8); bend the anchor comparison with Fair American is very interesting. Beware of jackstays, iron rigging hardware, and hawsers and secure the anchors. In short, get all odd rigging items rigged and made fast. 4. Goldenberg, Joseph A., Shipbuilding in Colonial some fore-and,aft rigging and check the older sources America, The Mariners Museum, 1976. A geograph, in Steel if you feel unsure. * 40 41 KEY TO RIGGING PLAN, Sheet 3 39. Jibstay outhaul tackle BIBLIOGRAPHY- Continued 40. Spritsail yard lifts, P & S N ate: standing rigging has been printed in black on the 41. Spritsail yard braces, P & S plans: running rigging in red. "P & S" denotes "port 7. Smith, Philip C.F. (Editor), The Journals of Ashley Contains many good hints on crafting techniques 42. Fore runner tackle, P & S Bowen ( 1728-1813) of Marblehead, Peabody Mu­ c.,) with a lot of details pertinent to Fair American. * and starboard". 43. Fore tackle runner, P & S seum of Salem, 197 3. Ashley Bowen was a Marble­ ty Craine, ]. H., Ship Modeling Hints G' Tips, Arco, 1. Fore topgallant stay 44. Main tackle runner, P & S head rigger who kept meticulous journals chronicling 1973. A collection of articles dealing with the more 2. Jib stay 45. Main runner tackle P & S the maritime activities around the Sal em-Marblehead mysterious and meddlesome modelling techniques. If 3. Fore topmast stays 46. Fore topgallant backstay runner, P & S area. He liked to dabble in watercolors, filling many things like making anchors, gratings, flags, etc. bother 4. Jib stay inhaul 47. Main topgallant backstay runner, P & S pages with fascinating renderings of vessels of all you, this book can be very useful. * 5. Bowsprit horses 48. tackle sorts, including a number of scarcely distin­ (00 Davis, Charles G., How to Ma~e Ship Bloc~ Models, 6. Bobstay 49. Yard tackles, P & S guishable from Fair American. A superb first-hand Sweetman, 1970. Useful collection of simplified tech­ 7. Bowsprit shrouds, P & S 50. Fore stay tackle account of early Continental Navy activities.* niques for making and detailing block-hull models. 8. Fore track Boomkin , P & S 51. Main stay tackle @Steel, David, Elements of Mastma~ing, Sailma~ing, Includes useful rigging tables. * 9. Fore stay 52. Main boom topping lift tackle, P & S 10. Spritsail brace pendants, P & S 53. Main boom topping lift runner, P & S and Rigging, Sweetman, 1960. Reprint from the 1794 15 Davis, The Ship Model Builder's Assistant, Sweet­ 11. Main stay 54. Vangs, P & S edition. Herein lie all the rules, definitions, and man, 1960. Has many useful articles on modelmaking 12. Fore lower shrouds, P & S 55. Spanker (main boom) sheet tables that can be applied to ships of Fair American's techniques; unfortunately, some of the text dealing 13 . Ratlines, P & S 56. Fore topsail halyard tackle time. The rigging details are mostly in tabular form with historical aspects of vessels and their construc­ 14. Sheer poles, P & S 57. Main topsail halyard tackle with few illustrations. If some riggmg leads seem tion is inaccurate. Anachronisms abound. Beware! * cloudy, check with Lever's Sheet Anchor for illustra­ 15 . Main shrouds, P & S 58. Throat halyard tions of comparable gear. * @ Grimwood, Victor R., American Ship Models, 16. Main preventer stay 59. Main brace, P & S W. W. Norton, 1942. Bonanza reprint. Contains an 17. Main topmast stay tackle 60. Fore topsail brace, P & S QV U. S. Naval Academy, Henry Huddleston Rogers interesting collection of American types for modelling 18. Fore topmast backstay, P & S 61. Fore brace, P & S Collection of Ship Models, Naval Institute Press, subjects; much useful information on modelmaking 19. Fore topgallant backstay, P & S 62 . Peak halyard 1954. Revised edition, 1971. A catalog describing all techniques and a very good chapter on tools and 20. Main topmast backstay, P & S 63. Peak halyard bridles items in the famous Rogers Collection now at the materials. 21. Main topgallant backstay, P & S 64. Lower yard topping lifts, P & S U. S. Naval Academy. The model of Fair American, 22. Main stay tackle pendant 65 . Main topsail brace, P & S Number 60, is described on pages 82 and 83. * 17. Petrejus, S. W., Modelling the Brig-of-War IRE]\[E, 66. Burton tackles, P & S "De Esch", Hengelo-Holland, 1970. A beautifully­ 23 . Yard tackle pendants, P & S 67. Burton tackle pendants, P & S illustrated volume on building a model of an early 24. Mast tackle pendants, P & S Modelma~ing Techniques 68. Fore topsail halyard tye 19th century brig-of-war. Some details are too late 25. Stirrups, P & S ( 10. Ansted, A. A Dictionary of Sea Terms, Brown, Son, 69. Fore topsail halyard runner of period, but descriptions of tools and techniques 26. Footropes, P & S Ferguson, 1967. A very fine collection of general 70. Fore topgallant halyard tackle will be useful to advanced modelmakers. * 27. Fore brace pendants, P & S definitions. Compact, well-illustrated. * 28. Main brace pendants, P & S 71. Main topsail halyard tye 11. Ashley, Clifford W., The Ashley Boo~ of Knots, 18. Pratt, Winthrop, A ]\[oteboo~ for Ship Model Build­ 29. Vang pendants, P & S 72. Main topsail halyard runner Doubleday & Co., 1944. This great compendium on ers, Model Shipways, 1950. A good little beginner's 30. Flemish horses, P & S 73 . Main topgallant halyard tackle knots and ropework contains detailed descriptions of guide to selection of tools and materials. Good articles 31 . Fore topsail brace pendants, P & S 74. Main topgallant brace, P & S nearly all applications of this art to the rigging of on sparmaking, rigging, anchors, and masthead con­ 32. Main topsail brace pendants, P & S 75 . Fore top gallant brace, P & S ships, much of it pertinent to shipmodel rigging as struction.* 3 3. Fore topmast shrouds, P & S 76. Fore topgallant halyard tye 77. Main top gallant halyard tye well. An essential bench-side reference for all serious 19. Wingrove, Gerald A., The Techniques of Ship 34. Main topmast shrouds, P & S 78. Flag halyards, P & S ship model riggers. * Modelling, M .A.P., 1974. A detailed, highly informa­ 3 5. Topsail yard lifts, P & S 79. Ensign halyard (12.) Campbell, George F., The Neophyte Shipmodeller's tive guide to more specialized ship modelling tech­ 36. Main topmast stay N ate : Rigging details, keyed in letters, are described on Jac~stay, Model Shipways, 1962. Describes model­ niques for vessels of many periods. Strong emphasis 37 . T opgallant yard lifts, P & S work of a get1eral nature, drawing examples from on metalworking and use of small precision machin­ 38. Main topgallant stay the rigging plan. many types of sailing ships from different periods. ery. For advanced modelmakers. *

43 42 RIGGING TABLES FOR FAIR AMERICAN. RIGGING TABLES FOR FAIR AMERICAN.- Continued Tarred Note: Cordage diameters given below are based on rigging tables in Steele (1794) for a naval brig of 160 tons. Since Fore and main topsail yard tyes (68, 71) Vs" Lightly tarred Fair American's tonnage was considerably less, the diameters in Steel's tables have been reduced approximately by 25%. Fore and main topsail halyard runners (69, 72) Ys" This reduction varies somewhat, depending on the purpose of each element of the rigging. For instance, horses (footropes) Fore and main topsail halyard tackles (56, 57) %" Tarred and served; stirrups Yz" were not reduced as their diameters reflect the weight of the men on them, rather than stress under sail; also, parrels Fore and main topsail yard horses (26) Vs" Tarred; served at yardarms and other cordage subject to chafing have been reduced by only 10 - 15% rather than a proportionate reduction on Fore and main topsail lifts (35) Yz" Tarred and served rigging tension. These reduced diameters are probably the smallest dimensions deemed practical for a brig of this Fore and main topsail brace pendants %" period and the larger elements of rigging (shrouds, stays, etc.) correspond well to schooners of Fair American's period Fore and main topsail braces ( 60, 65) Yz" Tarred and tonnage as recorded in the Ashley Bowen papers (See bibliography) . Fore and main tgl't. yard tyes (76, 77) Yz" Fore and main tgl't. halyards (70, 73) %" Tarred and served; stirrups %" Cordage Fore and main tgl't. horses (26) Yz" Tarred Item (and rigging key number) diameter Notes Fore and main tgl 't. parrels %" Tarred; served at yardarms Gammoning 1" Tarred Fore and main tgl't. lifts (37) %" Bob stay (6) 1%" Tarred and served; 2" lanyards Fore and main tgl't. braces (74, 75) %" Tarred Bowsprit shrouds (7) 1%" Tarred and served; 2" lanyards Spritsail yard sling Vs" Bowsprit horses (5) 1%" Tarred; ends served; !.4" netting Spritsail yard lifts ( 40) Yz" Tarred and served; stirrups Fore tack Boomkin guys (8) 1" Tarred; ends served Spritsail yard horses (26) %" Yz" Tarred and served Mast tackle pendants (24) 1l/z" Tarred and served Spritsail brace pendants ( 10) %" Fore and main tackle runners (43, 44) 1" Cargo hooks Spritsail braces ( 41) Yz" Lightly tarred Fore and main tackle runners ( 42, 45) Ys" Hook standing parts to channels Main boom topping lift runners (53) 1" Fore main shrouds ( 12, 15) 1l/z" Tarred: served at mastheads; lanyards %" Main boom topping lift tackles (52) %" All ratlines, fore and main ( 13) Tarred Spanker sheet (55) Vs" %" Tarred; served at gaff Fore stay (9) 2" Tarred; served at masthead; lanyards %" Peak halyard bridles ( 63) %" Lightly tarred; whips %" Main preventer stay (16) 1l/z" Tarred: served at masthead Throat and peak halyard runners (58, 62) Vs" Tarred; served at peak; vangs %" Main stay (11) 2!.4" Tarred: served at masthead Vang pendants (29) Ys" Anchor lashings same diameter Main stay tackle pendant (22) 1" Tarred; served at ends Cat falls Vs" Ensign halyard (79) %" Fore and main stay tackles (50, 51) %" Cargo hooks Flag halyards (78) !.4" Burton tackle pendants ( 67) %" Tarred and served Burton tackles ( 66) Yz" Cargo hooks Fore and main futtock shrouds Vs" Tarred Fore and main topmast shrouds (33, 34) Vs" Tarred: served at mastheads; lanyards Yz" Fore and main topmast backstays (18, 20) Vs" Tarred: served at mastheads; lanyards Yz" WOODEN SUNDRIES LIST Fore topmast stay ( 3) 1" Tarred; served at masthead and bees Fore topmast stay tackles Ys" Fiddle blocks F.A. Kit on 3/16" scale. Jib stay (2) Tarred; served at masthead and outhaul ring Vs" 1/8" x 1/8" x 12" ...... Head rail knees Jib stay outhaul tackle (39) Fiddle block 1/16" x 1/16" x 48" ...... Trim Yz" 1/8" x 1/2" x 12" ...... Head rails Jib stay inhaul ( 4) %" Seized to outhaul ring 1/16" x 3/16" x 24" ...... Cap rail 1/4" x 1" x 12" ...... Cheek knees Main topmast stay (36) 1" Tarred; served at masthead 3/32" x 5/16" x 12" ...... Channels, pin rails 1/4" x 5/16" x 16" ...... Quarter deck beams and toeing Main topmast stay tackle ( 17) Fiddle block 3/16" x 5/16" x 16" ...... Keel, stern post Ys" 1/16" x 1" x 6" ...... Quarter deck bulkhead Fore and main tgl't. shrouds Tarred; served at mastheads 3/16" x 3/4" x 4" ...... Rudder Yz" 1/16" x 1/8" x 12" ...... Quarter deck rail Fore and main tgl't., backstays (19, 21) Tarred; served at mastheads 3/16" x 1" x 6" ...... Stem post, head knee Yz" 3/32" x 3/32" x 12" ...... Quarter deck rail stanchions Fore and main tgl't., runners (46, 47) %" 1/8" x 4" x 3-1/2" ...... Transom piece 1/16" x 4" x 6" ...... Tops, hull trim Fore and main topgallant stays (1, 38) Tarred; served at mastheads 1/16" x 5/32" x 18" (4) .... .Main wales %" 1/4" x 1/4" x 6" ...... Bowsprit Fore and main lower yard slings 1Y,." Tarred and served 1/32" x 1/8" x 18" (2) ...... Black strakes Fore and main lower yard trusses 1" Pendants tarred; tackles %" Scored deck material Fore and main yard tackle pendants (23) 1" Tarred and served Fore and main yard tackles ( 49) %" Cargo hooks Fore and main lower yard horses (26) 1" Tarred and served; stirrups %" Fore and main lower brace pendants (27, 28) Vs" Tarred and served MODEL SHIPW A YS CO. INC. Fore and main lower braces (59, 61) %" Fore and main lower lifts ( 64) %" T arred; tackles Yz" 1978 Fore and main topsail yard parrels %" Tarred 45 44 Port Bow. A. Bobstay, B. Fore tack boomkin guy, C. Fore tack, D. Anchor lashings.

Main decl{, lool{ing forward. A. Main stay, B. Fore lower yard trusses. C. Main preventer stay, D. Main staysail halyard, E. Main staysail . F. Fore topgallant backstay and runner.

Fore top, lool{ing forward . A. Fore topsail clewline block, B. Fore topsail sheet, C. Fore lower yard lift, D. Futtock hooks, E. Lower yar.d lifts, crossing over at cap, F. Main topsail braces, standing and running parts, G. Main topmast stay and fairlead block, H . Main topmast staysail downhaul, I. Main topmast staysail halyard. Foredecl{. A. Main stay, B. Fore topsail sheets, C. Fore lower yard trusses, D. Fore lower yard lifts. Main top. A. Mainstay, B. Main preventer stay, C. Fore topsail braces, standing and running parts, D. Fore braces, standing and running parts, E. Main lower yard sling, F. Main clew garnet block, G. Main topsail sheet, H. Main stay tackle, I. Main tack,]. Main mast tackle runner, K. Main topgallant backstay, L. Futtock stave, M. Main sseet, N . Main topmast backstay.

Main top, loo~ing forward. A. Footropes and stirrups, B., C . Main lower yard lifts, D. Main topsail sheet, E. Main topsail yard parrels, F. Peak Halyard, G. Main boom topping lifts, H. Burton tackle, I. Main topsail halyard, ]. Main lower yard truss, K. Main lower yard lifts, L. Throat halyard.