Leggi l'articolo su beautynews #SuzyNYFW: Drastic Classicism From Marc Jacobs; Michael Kors Is Sporty
Marc Jacobs: Drastic Classicism
Bodies stretching and folding as sporty dancers advanced in a flurry of action… the Marc Jacobs show was exceptional, even before any fashionable clothes appeared across the empty floor-space.
Marc Jacobs Fall 2020 Runway Show Karole Armitage's choreography adds dramatic tension to the Marc Jacobs Autumn/Winter 2020 show Dimitrios Kambouris
This was THE show of the Autumn 2020 New York season – sport and grace combined to produce an eternal, youthful elegance and at the same time an urgent energy. The audience, sat at coffee tables as though part of the everyday story, took in the tidy head scarves, the dresses with short hemlines and the normality of it all compared to the complex and historical looks of last season.
pagina 1 / 17 Marc Jacobs Fall 2020 Runway Show Tidy scarves, short hemlines and colour at the Marc Jacobs Autumn/Winter 2020 Show Slaven Vlasic
Women in smart, often tailored outfits, in sweet colours such as buttercup-yellow and girly pink, emerged to extraordinarily fresh effect. They were the fashionably elegant surface, while a team of dance figures in athletic garments writhed beneath. Sometimes the two elements came together, as the models revealed light sportswear underneath their more formal clothes.
“Valuing simplicity and timeliness without forgoing our elaboration of individuality, variety and character,” explained the designer, who might have been referring to the effect of a single mad hat – all curly fronds – a fashion echo of the wild dancing.
pagina 2 / 17 Marc Jacobs Fall 2020 Runway Show Elaborate simplicity was the recurring motif of the Marc Jacobs Autumn/Winter 2020 designs Slaven Vlasic pagina 3 / 17 The Jacobs mentor was Karole Armitage, the choreographer and dancer whose fiercely abrupt gestures formed the core of the presentation. The designer described the dancer’s work as “the outermost expressions of our innermost feelings”.
Even without a single garment – but perhaps including the colourfully dressed Nicki Minaj – the show would have been fascinating. But however intelligent and articulate a designer, the proof is in the clothes. And they were stellar.
To describe the collection as classic seems ludicrous when the first impression was of the figures throwing themselves across the wooden floor. But from the plainest of dresses to a narrow-tailored trouser suit or a sparkly dress, the clothes were streamlined, elegant and never difficult or ridiculous.
pagina 4 / 17 A forward-looking, modern and lean ethos at the Marc Jacobs Autumn/Winter 2020 show
The Marc Jacobs concept seemed to be to offer a clear and lean wardrobe while conveying the controlled energy underneath. pagina 5 / 17 The collection was resolutely modern, from slim trouser suits and colourful dresses to shimmering evening clothes. The message throughout was of elegance, positivity – and the ever-present wild energy hidden below.
Marc Jacobs Fall 2020 Runway Show The Autumn/Winter 2020 Marc Jacobs collection - sweet colours and room to move Jamie McCarthy
Were the clothes ever complicated or awkward? The opposite was true; from loose tailoring offering space to move to the simple, rigorously shaped dresses, the show presented an unparalleled collection of day-to-night garments.
pagina 6 / 17 Marc Jacobs Fall 2020 Runway Show NEW YORK, NEW YORK - FEBRUARY 12: Models walk the runway at the Marc Jacobs Fall 2020 runway show during New York Fashion Week on February 12, 2020 in New York City. (Photo by Slaven Vlasic/Getty Images for Marc Jacobs) Slaven Vlasic
It is hard to think of another New York presentation with this level of sincerity in dressing women – and such a knack for suggesting what lies beneath.
pagina 7 / 17 Marc Jacobs Fall 2020 Runway Show Marc Jacobs moments before plunging into darkness, at his Autumn/Winter 2020 show Dimitrios Kambouris
As Jacobs appeared at the centre of the long line-up of models, he stepped forward, stamped his foot – and vanished into darkness. That personal statement was as decisive as the show.
Michael Kors: Cautiously Sporty
Come snow, come sun, come the alarmingly fast spread of coronavirus – and the consequent shut down of the Chinese market – Michael Kors remains beamingly optimistic.
pagina 8 / 17 Elegant winter warmth on the runway for Michael Kors Autumn/Winter 2020
After nearly 40 years as a fashion designer, he believes passionately in serving his customer, whether that happens to be Bette pagina 9 / 17 Midler (who just dropped him a text) or the women in Miami for whom he is is prepared to hold a trunk show, even on vacation.
Michael Kors AW/20 Fashion Show pagina 10 / 17 Stylish and utilitarian hybrid knitwear from Michael Kors Autumn/Winter 2020 Aurora Rose
As in his life – so in his clothes. They are designed to be worn. And the big, thick but stylish knits hit just that spot of usefulness for Winter 2020.
The designer describes these chunky new knits as ‘hybrid’, meaning that they can be worn in different ways, taking advantage of a new lightness. On the runway, they looked easy and cosy – two of the designer’s favourite words and the reality of the pieces he had put together.
pagina 11 / 17 Artful use of checkering by Michael Kors for Autumn/Winter 2020
“I think it is about privacy,” he added, referring not just to the to the chevron and checkered materials he served up as an all- pagina 12 / 17 embracing poncho or a cape, but also to the ‘scourge’ of the internet.
Michael Kors - February 2020 - New York Fashion Week pagina 13 / 17 Cosy with a twist from Michael Kors Autumn/Winter 2020 Peter White
The collection, for both men and women, was classic Kors – with a twist – which is the way he likes it.
pagina 14 / 17 Privacy from the elements in knitwear from Michael Kors Autumn/Winter 2020
This embracing of winter-warm, unisex clothes was finally interrupted by the introduction of glitter, making the evening pagina 15 / 17 clothes more striking, but still practical.
Michael Kors - February 2020 - New York Fashion Week pagina 16 / 17 Michael Kors' glittering dress in recycled sequin for Autumn/Winter 2020 Peter White
“I think my approach to fashion has always been about things that are timeless and an investment,” the designer said, admitting that he did not archive his work in his early days and that when he tries to fill that gap of garments from the Eighties and Nineties, he finds that people have kept, not sold, his designs.
Kors, looking at the new collection, said, “Every day there is something so difficult to comprehend. Are the best things that you can wear the ones that make you feel you are in a chic security blanket? Yes! The new collection fills the gap with things that allow you to feel comfortable, cosy and relaxed”.
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