©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

ايران مرکزی Central Iran

Includes  Why Go? Qom ...... 147 Central Iran, encompassing the magnificent cities of Esfa- Kashan ...... 151 han, Yazd and Shiraz, is the cultural tour-de-force of Iran. Esfahan ...... 158 Wedged between the Zagros Mountains to the west and the Dasht-e Kavir ...... 178 Dasht-e Kavir to the east, it offers the quintessential Persian experience and it’s no coincidence that it attracts the most Yazd ...... 182 visitors. But in an age that celebrates getting off the beat- Shiraz ...... 195 en track, this is one destination where this is a redundant Persepolis ...... 207 quest: for centuries people have crossed this land, following Pasargadae ...... 210 in the footsteps of ancient empire builders, their journeys commemorated in the artistic wonders at Persepolis. You can continue that journey today, tracing the silk route along desert byways, through city bazaars and across Best Places to mountain passes – in much the same manner as the region’s Eat famous nomads. Many of the caravanserai and khans that dot these routes have been restored and overnighting in one ¨¨Abbasi Teahouse & of these hospitable lodgings serves as an appointment with Traditional Restaurant (p172) history. ¨¨Bastani Traditional Restaurant (p171) ¨¨Shahrzad (p172) When to Go ¨¨Ghavam (p205) Visit in the spring when Persian gardens are in bud, mountain orchards are full of flowers and the rose fields around Kashan ¨¨Talar Yazd (p190) are at their fragrant best. Although there is some difference in climate from region to region, generally travelling in the extreme heat of summer Best Places to when temperatures can reach 50°C or more is not much fun Sleep between June to September. January and February can be equally challenging, not just ¨¨Abbasi Hotel (p171) in the Zagros Mountains, but across the whole region as locals ¨¨Barandaz Lodge (p181) hunker down against the freezing cold of midwinter. ¨¨Saraye Ameriha Boutique Hotel (p155) ¨¨Niayesh Boutique Hotel (p202) ¨¨Fahadan Museum Hotel (p189) Central Iran SightQ o m s 147

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, and browse among the Islamic book , and browse among the Islamic ) Visits by non-Muslims should officially be officially should non-Muslims by Visits Astane Sq spills into a neighbouring A favourite confection of Qom is sohun,A favourite 150 in groups accompanied by a guide approved by a guide accompanied in groups aincidentally are shrine stewardsby the (who of theabout the features information mine of an element complex); in practice, however, entryof discretion is exercised permitting in a must wear Women travellers. to individual No entrance at charge of free available chador, was by mobile phone 1. Discreet photography camerasvisit but large during our permitted discouraged. were bazaar in the heart of Qom, a short stroll from AstaneSq, is worth one of a visit as marketsthe most in Iran. authentic covered With a small khan is distin it usual labyrinth of alleyways, a sinfully sweet brittle made with pistachio,a sinfully sweet brittle and cardamom. Buying a tin almond, saffron (IR100,000)shops the of one from these of tea stand and a glass of tea from the square’s is part of the local experience. pedestrianised of the Imam plaza in front multistorey huge A under Mosque. Hassan and on Fridays During religious festivals if you – be sure to book ahead Qom is packed The is best place to stay plan to stop over. Hotel International Qom shops. Catering to more worldly appetites, worldly more to Catering shops. the square sell shops flanking the souvenir delicious local sweets. ground car park under this plaza is handy for those driving to Qom. 4 guished from other such trading places by trading guished from other such representing ‘business as usual’ for the local if no concession citizens of Qom, with little toplace great A visitors. or modernity to centuries. over of trade sense the continuity Square Astane (Map p150 Old Bazar (Map p150 s/d/tr IR1,890,000/3,060,000/3,920,000; s/d/tr p 1771 9208; 1771 with marble and pedestrianised, offering awith marble and pedestrianised, offering The Masumeh. vista of the Hazrat-e grand in quality on a carnivalesque square takes the evening when robed clerics hurry by towhile pilgrims and scholars congregate of theenjoy the open space, stroll the length gloriousand the the shrine between square blue-domed

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Sights Hazrat-e Masumeh Hazrat-e Qom is one of Iran’s fastest-growing cities Qom is one of Iran’s Much of what can be seen today was can be seen today of what Much 025 / POPULATION 1,250,000 / ELEVATION 933M حضرت معصومه The and spiritual centre of Qom, physical ofplace burial the is shrine magnificent this who died here sister Fatemeh, Reza’s Imam Reza was the eighth ofin the 9th century. the 12 imams who descended from Prophet as the only one of the 12 to be Mohammed; bur his sister’s (in Mashhad), buried in Iran o ( 1 haviour is particularlyhaviour around the appreciated shrine. Masumeh Hazrat-e has doubled since the revolu (the population tion) and the outskirts are being transformed apartmentof theWhile blocks. sprawl a by thenew unattractive, infrastructure is rather least brought new growth has at population be visited inQom can centre. life to the old or en route to from Tehran trip an easy day Kashan. rat-e Masumeh; this was an embellishmentan was this Masumeh; rat-e Shah in Ali added by the Qajar ruler Fath to be outdone Not the early 19th century. rulersby their predecessors, successive embellishments on various lavished have with thethe shrine complex years the over constructionthe – addition latest granda of plaza next to Astane Sq – being contributed of Qom. Ayatollahs by today’s bala and Najaf (in modern-day Iraq), they Iraq), modern-day (in and Najaf bala the site with courtyards of brilliant lavished theis it however, visitors, For work. tile cupola golden distinguishesgreat Haz that favid kings in the 16th century. Anxious to kings in the 16thfavid century. establish and prove their Shiite credentials Kar shrines at they the sect’s could match ial site has a special resonance as a place of intoare allowed Non-Muslims pilgrimage. the courtyards but not the shrine itself. built under Shah Abbas I and the other Sa % after second-holiest Mashhad, city Iran’s Qom (Ghom) is home to both the magnificentto both the is home (Ghom) and the hardline shrine Masumeh Hazrat-e the country ruled 1979. since clerics who have and studentsShiite scholars come from across to study in its madrasehs the world and browse in its famous religious bookshops,and browse in the shrine and locals at homage pilgrims pay to be need are conspicuously Travellers pious. when religious nature mindful of the city’s Discreet be visiting and dress conservatively. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Iran

Tehran p34 Northeastern Iran p246

Western Iran p77

Central Iran p146

Southeastern Iran Persian Gulf p230 p213

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Simon Richmond, Jean-Bernard Carillet, Mark Elliott, Anthony Ham, Jenny Walker, Steve Waters PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to Iran...... 4 TEHRAN ...... 34 WESTERN IRAN . . . . . 77 Iran Map...... 6 Sights...... 37 Bazargan ...... 80 Iran’s Top 16 ...... 8 Activities...... 50 Maku & Around ...... 80 Tours...... 53 Khoy ...... 81 Need to Know...... 16 Courses...... 53 Orumiyeh ...... 82 First Time Sleeping...... 53 Maraqeh ...... 84 Iran...... 18 Eating...... 58 Tabriz ...... 84 If You Like…...... 20 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . 61 Kandovan ...... 94 Month by Month. . . . . 22 Entertainment ...... 64 Jolfa ...... 94 Shopping...... 65 Aras River Valley...... 95 Itineraries ...... 24 Around Tehran. . . . . 72 Kaleybar ...... 97 Visas & Planning ...... 27 Alborz Ski Resorts. . . . . 72 Ardabil ...... 97 Regions at a Glance. . . .. 31 Mt Damavand ...... 74 Khal Khal ...... 100 Rey ...... 75 Zanjan ...... 100 Soltaniyeh ...... 103 TUUL & BRUNO MORANDI / GETTY IMAGES © MOHAMMADREZA DOMIRIGANJI / 500PX ©

OLJEITU MAUSOLEUM, SOLTANIYEH P103 JAMES STRACHAN / GETTY IMAGES ©

PERSIAN RUG WEAVING MASJED-E NASIR-AL-MOLK, P316 SHIRAZ P198 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 369

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

Martin, Klaas Flechsig, Larissa Chu, Leigh Dehaney, OUR READERS Leonie Gavalas, Lianne Bosch, Lisandra Ilisei, Luis Many thanks to the travellers who used the last Maia, Luzius Thuerlimann, Maarten Jan Oskam, edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful Maksymilian Dzwonek, Manfred Henze, Marc Verkerk, advice and interesting anecdotes: Adriaan van Dijk, Marcel Althaus, Marei Bauer, Marianne Schoone, Adrian Ineichen, Adrien Bitton, Adrien Ledeul, Agapi Mario Sergio Dd Oliveira Pinto, Marjolijn Polman, Galenianou, Alan & Lynn Taylor, Alan Keltner, Alberto Martin Hausmann, Mary Gavan, Mehmet Gavremo- Ibanez, Alexis Haneke, Alfred Schupp, Amanda glu, Michael Chow, Mike van kruchten, Mina Rahimi, Löwenberg, Amir Qaredaghi, Ana Hocevar, Ana Mirka Badinska, Mohammad Afshinfar, Mohammad Louro, Andrew Coker, Andrew Rerttman, Angus Lee, Ebrahimi, Mohsen Rezaie-Atagholipour, Momo Ankur Agarwal, Anna Zavyalova, Anne Ataii, Anton Nedderwedder, Monica Coppi, Monica Santosuosso, Kerst, Arlo Werhoven, Arne Gerberding, Aurélien Monika Marek, Nga Bellis, Nicholas James, Nick Grollemund, Bas Geelen, Basia Jóźwiak, Bastiaan Lubout, Olav Wissink , Oleg Zhernovoy, Olivia-Petra Bijl, Basudeb Banerjee, Behnaz Shaabani, Bojan Coman, Olivier Drouin, Parniyan Fakharzadeh, Parto Bokal, Cale Lawlor, Catherine Waters, Chevallier Shahvandi, Paul Downing, Paul Faust, Paul Tjiam, Elodie, Chiara Pentini, Christian Kayed, Christina Paul-Noël Dumont, Petros Mouchas, Phuong Tran, Gade, Cinzia Mina, Damjan Sinigoj, David Cassan, Pier Giorgi, Regi & Andi Keller, Regine Fisahn, Remko David Droob, David Treller, Desislava Slavcheva, Donga, Rens Geerse , Reto Vogt, Ricardo Puerto, Dominik Hetzer, Edda Senior, Edo Willemse, Elise Richard & Joan Williams, Roderick van de Weg, Roëlla Vonk, Elizabeth van Tilborg, Eloise de la Croix, Ester de Ruiter, Ronald De Hertogh, Rouhollah Fallahi, Roya Vila, Eugenio Ariztia, Eva Anita Steiger, Farnoush Moradifar, Ryan Mckechnie, Ryan Teo, Ryo Kakiuchi, Sheykhani, Florian Siebeck, Franca Gilissen, Franco Sadra Beygi , Sebastian Lopienski, Shahireh Nozari, Pagnoni, Frank Westerhof, Frans Ewals, Geert van Simon Coombe, Simon Walo, Simone Zoppellaro, Waveren, Gert Fisahn, Gilda Gazor, Greg Minshall, Siska D’hoore, Stefan Gruber, Stefanie Mikkers, Stela Hadrien Cazeaux, Helen Carmichael, Helena Foito Prodanovic, Stephane Baudemont, Susanne Janssen, dos Santos, Helena Henneken, Henry Bacon, Hojat Svein Skalevag, Sveta Selivanova, Terry Hooper, Kermani Nejad, Hon Chiu Vincent Ko, Ian Thomson, Thessi Summer, Thibaud Marcesse, Thomas Nash, Ioannis Mamoukaris, Jaap Hooijkaas, Jacek Jancza- Thomas Sarosy, Thomas Schneider, Tim Rom, Tobias rek, Jan Setnan, Jan-Pieter Visschers, Jascha de Leupold, Tobias Wolski, Tom De Mits, Tomasz Ko- Ridder, Jason Pemberton, Jeanne Watt, Jenny Hess, zaczek, Ursula Streit, Vida Pirlou, Xavier law, Xin Tian Jessie Toose, Jim Lowther, John Pasturel, Jonas Keil, Yong, Yao Zhang, Yasi Ayat, Yorian Bordes Joris Tieleman, Julia Dorenwendt, Julian Madsen, Kaldia Douag, Kamran Hasani, Katharina Lüke, Kay 370 WRITER THANKS Jenny Walker Iran is acknowledged as a country of wonders Simon Richmond – and this includes the legendary hospitality Many thanks to the following for their assistance extended to visitors. A general thanks, then, to in preparation for and during my research in Iran: all who helped contribute to the information in Andrew Burke, Gabe Kaminski, Laili Sadr, Mathew the Central Iran chapter. Specific thanks to Bijan

BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND Scott, Yi-Juan Koh, William Lodder, Navid, Sogand, Nabavi for setting the scene, to Mostafa Ramezan- Matin, Shirin, Ali, Farah, Ramin, Armin, Masoud, poor for attention to detail and most especially to Jalal and Berzhad. Mojtaba Heidari for his extreme efforts in extreme circumstances – not forgetting his signature coffee Jean-Bernard Carillet stops! Biggest thanks to beloved Sam (Owen), A huge thanks to everyone who helped out and husband, co-researcher and fellow traveller. made this trip an enlightenment, especially Mojtaba, Eric, Amir, Ibrahim, the young couple met Steve Waters on Qeshm and all the people I met on the road. At Thanks to all the beautiful Iranian people who Lonely Planet I’m grateful to Helen for her trust, smoothed my way, picked me up when I was miles and to the hard-working editors. At home, a gros from nowhere, bought me tea and chocolates, or bisou to Eva and lots of love to Morgane, whose chelo kabab, who taught me lessons in humility, support was essential. patience and honesty, who told me subversive jokes, made me laugh, shared their food and perse- Mark Elliott vered with my mangled Farsi. And thanks to Rahel, Many, many thanks to gallant guides Shahram and Kaz, Hamish, Megan and Roz for being yourselves. Mojtaba, to Helen, Dylan and Megan for making things possible and to Sally Kingsbury and my unbeatable parents for so much love and support. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Thank you also to countless kind Iranians and Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson travellers who were so generous with their time, BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of hospitality and information, notably Vali, Reza and the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol- family, Rino, Ahmad, Amir, Jalal, Mohammad and ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. Akbar. Cover photograph: Masjed-e Sheikh Lotfollah Anthony Ham (Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque), Esfahan, JPRichard/ A big thank you to my editor, Helen Elfer, for trust- Shutterstock © ing me to write about such a wonderful part of the world we both love. And to my co-authors – Mark Elliott, Jean-Bernard Carillet, Simon Richmond, Jenny Walker and Steve Waters – who together represent some of the finest writers writing guidebooks anywhere.

Destination Editors Helen Assisting Cartographer Julie THIS BOOK Elfer, Lauren Keith Dodkins This 7th edition of Lonely Product Editors Joel Cotterell, Cover Researcher Naomi Planet’s Iran guidebook was Anne Mason Parker researched and written by Senior Cartographer David Thanks to Jordan Hallewell, Simon Richmond, Jean-Bernard Kemp Indra Kilfoyle, Kate Mathews, Carillet, Mark Elliott, Anthony Book Designer Nicholas Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Ham, Jenny Walker and Steve Colicchia Martine Power, Kirsten Waters. The previous edition Assisting Editors Sarah Rawlings, Alison Ridgway, was written by Andrew Burke, Bailey, Imogen Bannister, Carly Shadi Salehian Virginia Maxwell and Iain Hall, Ali Lemer, Kristin Odijk, Shearer. This guidebook was Gabrielle Stefanos, Ross Taylor, produced by the following: Saralinda Turner ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Northeastern Iran شمال شرقی ايران

Includes  Why Go? Gorgan ...... 247 The Northeast’s primary attraction is Mashhad’s extraor- Semnan ...... 252 dinarily grand Haram-e Razavi complex – the shrine of Garmsar ...... 254 Imam Reza – which attracts pilgrims in their millions. Shahrud ...... 255 The main highway to Mashhad from Tehran parallels the classic silk route via a series of former caravanserai villag- Gonbad-e Kavus . . . . 256 es and towns edging round the vast desert emptiness of Mashhad ...... 257 the Dasht-e Kavir. An alternative route crosses the Alborz Bojnurd ...... 270 Mountains, descends to the highly developed Caspian Esfarayen ...... 271 coast then passes through Turkmensahra (an area that’s culturally Turkmen), skirting the ancient Hyrcanian oak forests of the Golestan (Paradise) National Park, mountain home to a small population of leopards. Best Places to There’s much to discover here – and you’ll need to come Eat this way if travelling overland to Turkmenistan – but foreign tourists remain extremely rare throughout the region. Cities ¨¨Cafe Sonati Tadaion like Semnan, Shahrud, Gorgan and Mashhad are vibrant and (p253) increasingly modern, but don’t expect to find many English ¨¨Babaghodrat (p264) speakers or even any Latin script on most signs. ¨¨Dehnamak Caravanserai (p254) ¨¨Flamingo (p255) When to Go April to May is beautiful, with steppe and mountains man- ¨¨Zendegi (p253) tled in technicolour flowers. Come on spring or autumn ¨¨Bagh-e Salar (p269) weekends (Thursday to Friday) to see horse-racing at Gon- bad-e Kavus. In December temperatures can occasionally dip to -20°C, but more likely hover around 0°C. Winter snows Best Places to block some minor roads (eg Kordkuy–Radkan) but can make spotting elusive leopard tracks in the Golestan National Park Sleep a bit easier. ¨¨Setar-e Kavir (p254) Avoid Mashhad around No Ruz (Iranian New Year) in ¨¨Radkan Arg Ecolodge (p269) late March and during religious holidays – innumerable ¨¨Javad Hotel (p262) pilgrim crowds turn the city into pandemonium. July and August are blisteringly hot and the Caspian region’s infa- ¨¨Vesal Homestay (p271) mous humidity peaks. ¨¨Vali’s Non-Smoking Homestay (p260) Northeastern Iran GSaerittin g There & Away 247

------WER O T گرگان 8am-2pm) ILDING BU ORIC T h 8am-midnight)

HIS h

ur Alley; Nur IR50,000;

pedestrian access tunnel

Basij Basij Sq; mamzadeh Imamzadeh

’suite‘) سويت (suite’ in Farsi) and they’re in Farsi‘) from the road that runs parallel to parallel runs that road the from This complex magnificent of historic Sights Sleeping Savaris and twice-daily buses to Damghan Damghan twice-daily buses and to Savaris . It’s a fun novelty if you’re driving by but driving if you’re a fun novelty It’s Gorgan was the birthplace of ‘eunuch- 017 / POPULATION 343,000 / ELEVATION 135M 150,000/140,000) and Gonbad-e Kavuz Savaris for Gorgan (front/back seat seat (front/back Gorgan for Savaris The that three-legged giant folly of a tower fantasy space a child’s Sq like sits on Basij 4 night you’ll at the evenings till fairly late In on the appear to be hitchhikers see what Sq, and possibly oth south side of Mofateh er major thoroughfares. Their boards actu ally read ing. Grab a coffee (IR80,000) to take advan take to (IR80,000) ing.coffee a Grab of the free customertage wi-fi. here is a pain without a car: you’llgetting the need to find F (Borj-e Basij; (Borj-e craft is actuallya jerkily revolving restau spins once in 45 minutes that rant-coffeeshop persuade the barista to set(if you it moving). also a ring of open-air seat there’s Upstairs (Basij (Basij Sq) House Taqavi p250; (Map king’ Aga Mohammad, who founded the who king’ Aga Mohammad, Itsexpansionist Qajar (1779–1925). dynasty limited is relatively architectural heritage visiting base for but Gorgan a fine makes forested steppes and Golestan’s the Turkmen mountains. 1 Tower Gorgan small, easily missed garage, around 800m from the trainstation, on the west side of Keshavarz Blvd (IR250,000, four hours) also start there, making a rest Telmastop at Dareh (95km). IR (IR250,000/235,000) start on the Gorgan Hwy, 2km east of Golha Sq/Hotel Asram. Gorgan % This appealing, has a expanding rapidly city thanks vibe and a colourful lively character, and an ethnicallyto an population mixed green Alborz where the location attractive stoop to meet northeastern the Mountains steppe. the Sari Hwy, a block north Sq. of Basij the Sari Hwy, 251) (p buildings houses the Golestan Miras Askto peep inside the cultural-tourist office. not your harem building – it’s ‘eight-wife’ photocopier cupboard. bureaucrat’s average

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011-3372 2133; http://sari 011-3372 . By train, arriving in Sari from com; Hotel Asram Hotel % ( 011-3323 1661; Keshavarz Blvd), a % . (Valiasr H and 140,000, five hours, departs Garmsar departs hours, Garmsar five 140,000, ir; off Sari–Gorgan hwy, Km11) is 14km ) . IR Getting There & Away Trans-Alborz Railway Trans-Alborz 011-3388 4497; 011-3388 40am) The are best places to stay The 16th-century Safavid regime’s moveThe 16th-century regime’s Safavid 011 / POPULATION 299,000 . Most long-distance buses use the big Dolat ahband; ahband; ehran or Garmsar is theone way of travelling % Sari Terminal light ( light 10 8 AirportSari ranians IR997,000/1,635,0 Iranians €40/55/80/100, eigners 00/2,087,000/2,152,000; ( pas . asramco@gmail ly worth a big detour. However, it’s a key it’s However, ly worth a big detour. trying to reachconnecting point if you’re Badab-e Surttransport,public by theand travelled if you’ve to arrive likely place you’re which Railway, Trans-Alborz the impressive switchbacks down steep valley sides from to the low-lying Caspian plateau the central coast. % is an capital of Mazandaran The sprawling place not real infuriating, traffic-snarled towards formal state Shiite Islam was a Shiite Islam towards formal state frommajor factorgrowth of Mashhad in the foremost city. to the region’s a shrine-village vellous, lonely towers, most astonishingly lonely towers, atvellous, are the lastRadkan and Gonbad-e Kavus, witnesses of former glories. ly wiped out in many places; even now thely wiped out in many cities are once-prosperous sites of several in the steppe. A fewmere undulations mar gols and Tamerlane were so complete so were that and Tamerlane gols was virtual civilisation settled Tabarestan’s Historically, the northeast the developed as Historically, Rises’) Sun Khorasan (‘Where [Iranian] the south (the Tabarestan/Mazandaran and of cul Millennia eastern littoral). Caspian 1000 a zenith here around ture reached great of the era’s many producing ago, years scientists and poet-philosophers. But the 13th- and 14th-century Mon of the ravages History a good restaurant-teahouse on its top floor. restaurant-teahouse a good wy Km10; Hwy Gorgan airport east of the city T the R Surt, the 8am Orost minibus leaves from the Stand Savari Mazandaran–Semnan ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

خليج فارس Persian Gulf

Includes  Why Go? Kish Island ...... 214 Quick – turn around: there’s an entire travel experience Bandar-e Lengeh . . . . 219 that you probably haven’t even considered. While you’ve Bandar Abbas ...... 219 been planning your Iranian sojourn around the jewels of Qeshm Island ...... 222 the country’s rich history (Esfahan, Shiraz, Yazd), to the southeast the Persian Gulf is equally deserving. Explore the Hormoz Island ...... 227 magnetic islands of Kish, Qeshm and Hormoz, which are absurdly easy to combine and are altogether different. While Kish is unashamedly glam and glitzy, Qeshm and Hormoz are refreshingly void of large-scale development and offer Best Places to a chance to glimpse a more traditional way of life – not to Eat mention an array of geological wonders. Along the coast, ¨¨Bandar (p221) soak up the vibes of lively Bandar Abbas and make a beeline for the delightful town of Kong, whose historical centre is ¨¨Fanoos (p220) peppered with charming old houses and monuments. Thus, ¨¨Kolbeh Darvish (p217) you’ll have the full monty. ¨¨Mir Mohanna (p218) ¨¨Shabhaye Talai – Golden Nights Beach Restaurant When to Go (p226) The gulf is hotter than Hades between April and November, with temperatures averaging 35°C and occasionally climbing ¨¨Kaleng (p226) as high as 50°C. Not surprisingly, life adjusts accordingly – most businesses start early and then shut up shop from about noon to 5pm. Best Places to During No Ruz (Iranian New Year; 21 March to 3 April) Sleep the entire coast is inundated by swarms of domestic tour- ¨¨Atilar Hotel (p220) ists and most hotels are full – avoid travelling here at this time. Try to visit during winter, when the temperature aver- ¨¨Mr Amini’s House (p225) ages between 18°C and 25°C, humidity is relatively low and ¨¨Mrs Fattahi’s House crowds are nonexistent. (p225) ¨¨Toranj Marine Hotel (p217) ¨¨Ecotourism Hotel (p219) - - n d a b n d a a ) l u n n s i I R

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D h b r k r A 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 #\ a h Me a r e d La Kish was known for the quality of itsquality for the Kish was known ; Kish a n h 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 #\ s h a 4 4 #\ a C B pearls; when Marco Polo was visiting the was Polo pearls; when Marco imperial courtChina, on in remarked he by one of of the pearls worn the beauty and was told they wives had the emperor’s the 14thcome from Kish. In century Kish remained obscurefell into decline and it until the 1970s, when it was developed as retreatand his for the shah a semi-private guests – complete air with international port, luxury hotels and a casino. History memoirs in the recorded is first Kish Island sailor commissioned the Greek of Nearchus, by Alexanderto explore the Great the Per Kish Ages the Middle 325 BC. In sian Gulf in became an important under centre trading one at and dynasty powerfulown its Arab time supported The of 40,000. a population which is believed was Harireh, main town referredto be the town poet to by the Sa’di work famous his in 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 M a #\ e b 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 s - - - reh #\ j a r a 3 t # – n ri F a f # 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 o d h a d m A \ # s m h n k n i s 4 4 H #\ d a . o e 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 K a l K r l 0 r i s B a #\ 0 I h 1 m 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 a m (p215 Harireh J 0 #\ a z #\ 5 i 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 L d n r a n of historical buildings and buildings historical of houses Island) Exploring this Island) Exploring that splendid old city a of the remains comprises and an old port house large 3 h d z v a جزيره کيش 4 4 e 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 l a u a s r D b L I A Fi 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 f #\ F a #\ r L 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 i ) n h U S a e #\ g G 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 y 5 5 5 i

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5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 yourself in a traditional port in a traditional yourself with plenty blessed town 2 1 Persian Gulf Highlights wandering through the through wandering of this city streets animated fish market. visiting its and S 076 / POPULATION 27,000 Kish Island land. Kish is largely ignored by foreign tour land. Kish is largely a visit because shame, a ists,That’s though. from to experience Iran way here is a great the perspective. Leave an altogether different mainland and comesight-laden cities of the sun in a relaxedhere to enjoy sea, sand and atmosphere.

Welcome to Iran’s Sunshine Coast, or Iran’s Coast, Sunshine or Iran’s Iran’s to Welcome hello it, say label you Costa Sol. However del the 1970s, since island that, to this attractive a beach resorthas become visitors where and and sample a laid-back can swim, shop most Iran’s lifestyle. local liberated relatively hedonistic Kish is booming. spot, Hotels, apartmentretailand blocks complexes(it the dominate status) enjoys free-trade-zone desertonce-empty landscape and domestic tourist numbers are on the rise, especially in freezing cold on the main when it’s winter, %

Kish Island

Persian Gulf 214 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 4

Welcome to Iran Welcome to what could be the friendliest country on earth. Iran is the jewel in Islam’s crown, combining glorious architecture with a warm-hearted welcome.

In the Footsteps of Empire Modern & Sophisticated Echoes of ancient civilisations resonate This is your chance to get to grips with Iran’s down through the ages in Iran. Some of modern history, too, particularly in Tehran. history’s biggest names - Cyrus and Darius, Enter part of the former US embassy, now Alexander the Great, Genghis Khan – all called the US Den of Espionage; gaze up left their mark here and the cities they at Tehran’s beautiful Azadi Tower, where conquered or over which they ruled are hundreds of thousands of people gathered among the finest in a region rich with such to mark the 1979 revolution and, in 2009, storied ruins. Walking around the awesome to protest against the regime the revolution and beautiful ancient capital at Persepolis, delivered; and visit the haunting Iran Holy experiencing the remote power of Susa Defense Museum to learn all about the Iran (Shush), and taking in the wonderfully Iraq war that so traumatised the country. immense Elamite ziggurat at Choqa Zanbil Tehran is also where you can take Iran’s con- will carry you all the way back to the glory temporary pulse at creative contemporary days of Ancient Persia. art galleries and liberal cafe spaces.

The Beauty of Islam Redefining Hospitality Iran is a treasure house for some of the Across Iran, a nation made up of numerous most beautiful Islamic architecture on the ethnic groups and influenced over thou- planet. The sublime, turquoise-tiled domes sands of years by Greek, Arab, Turkic and and minarets of Esfahan’s Naqsh-e Jahan Mongol occupiers, you’ll find the people (Imam) Square gets so many appreciative are endlessly welcoming. Offers to sit down gasps of wonder, and rightly so, but there for tea will be an everyday occurrence, and are utterly magnificent rivals elsewhere, if you spend any time at all with Iranians, in Yazd and Shiraz among others. And it’s you’ll often find yourself invited to share a not just the mosques – the palaces (espe- meal in someone’s home. Say yes whenever cially in Tehran), gardens (everywhere, but you can, and through it experience first- Kashan really shines) and artfully con- hand, Iranian culture, ancient, sophisti- ceived bridges and other public buildings cated and warm. It’s these experiences that all lend grace and beauty to cities across will live longest in the memory. the country 5 - Masjed-e Shah mosque, Esfahan (p159) Esfahan mosque, Shah Masjed-e Above: By Anthony Ham, Writer Why I Love Iran Love I Why What’s not The to love? landscapes here are wonderful, from high mountains to deep deserts where the soulful presence of the Asiatic cheetah still roams. There’s the archi For more about our writers, see p384 tecture and the magic ofthe bazaars. There’s the utterly civilised appeal of taking tea in a teahouse overlooking the river in Esfahan or with nomads out in the Zagros Mountains. Or wandering the mud-brick alleyways then of Yazd venturing to a Zoroastrian fire temple on the cusp of the desert. I love Yes, all of these things. But Iran’s greatest gift is its people.

RAFI NOURINIA / 500PX © ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Southeastern Iran جنوب شرقی ایران

Includes  Why Go? Meymand ...... 231 While central Iran’s gem cities are deservedly a far bigger Kerman ...... 232 draw, the southeast offers cave-houses, classic gardens, The Kaluts fortresses, deserted villages, oases and fabulous erosion (Lut Desert) ...... 240 patterns all set in scenery that intersperses great expans- Rayen ...... 242 es of desert with chains of high mountains. Especially if you’re mobile, this is a thrilling region in which to feel like Birjand ...... 243 a real-life explorer discovering timeless ancient sites...and Qa’en ...... 244 enjoying them all on your own. If planning a multiday loop, do it clockwise: Birjand and Kerman seem far more delightful if you’ve yet to see Yazd and Esfahan. And crossing the Dasht-e Lut westbound provides a Best Places to scenic crescendo that reaches a glorious climax at the Kaluts. Eat ¨¨Hamam-e Vakil Chaykhaneh (p237) When to Go ¨¨Shamsol Emare (p244) The best seasons to visit are typically early spring and late ¨¨Keykhosro (p237) autumn. In Kerman city (around 1750m) and surrounding towns, elevation tempers the heat but summers are impossi- ¨¨Shah Nematollah bly hot in the Lut desert. If you’re there from June to August, Sofrakhane (p240) arrive before dawn and be out by 9am. ¨¨Sofrakhane Sonati Qaleh In winter, desert temperatures are pleasant by day but can (p243) plunge to -10°C at night (when even oasis village homestays need heaters). Reaching the desert from Kerman involves crossing the mountains through a tunnel at nearly 2700m, Best Places to which can be temporarily blocked by winter blizzards. Sleep ¨¨Motevibashi Hotel (p240) ¨¨Keykhosro (p236) ¨¨Kashkiloo Lodge (p242) ¨¨Parvin Homestay (p241) Southeastern Iran Meymand 231

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تهران Tehran% POP 8.43 MILLION / 021 / ELEV 1300M

Includes  Why Go? Tehran ...... 34 Hugging the lower slopes of the magnificent, snowcapped Around Tehran ...... 72 Alborz Mountains, Tehran is Iran’s most secular and liberal Alborz Ski Resorts. . . . 72 city. Spend time here – as you should – and you’ll soon re- Mt Damavand...... 74 alise that the city is so much more than a chaotic jumble of concrete and crazy traffic blanketed by a miasma of air Rey...... 75 pollution. This is the nation’s dynamic beating heart and the place to get a handle on modern Iran and what its future will likely be. Exploring this fascinating metropolis will transport you Best Places to on a journey through more than 250 years of Iranian his- Eat tory – from the glittering Golestan Palace and the adjacent ¨¨Divan (p61) Grand Bazaar to the beautiful Azadi Tower and the notorious former US embassy. Then there are the city’s many excellent ¨¨Dizi (p60) museums and serene gardens. In such places, as well as in ¨¨Gilaneh (p61) contemporary cafes, traditional teahouses and on the walk- ¨¨Khoone (p59) ing trails in the mountains, you can relax and enjoy all that’s good about Tehran. ¨¨S.P.U Restaurant (p61) ¨¨Azari Traditional Teahouse (p59) When to Go The best time to visit Tehran is during the two-week No Ruz (Iranian New Year) holiday from 21 March. Given more than Best Places to 60% of Tehranis come from somewhere else and head for Sleep home for the holiday, the usual traffic chaos is replaced by ¨¨See You In Iran Hostel relative calm. (p55) During April and May, and September to early November, the weather is relatively mild. Summer is hot and can be ¨ ¨Howeyzeh Hotel (p56) very humid, and while winter isn’t as cold as some places, ¨¨Sepehr Apartment Hotel air pollution tends to be at its worst during December and (p58) January. ¨¨Firouzeh Hotel (p54) ¨¨Ferdowsi International Grand Hotel (p55) ) ) n l 35 a #] m m m o R n k k k )

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Understand Iran

IRAN TODAY...... 274 The struggle between liberal and conservative forces continues.

HISTORY...... 276 A tale of great empires, mighty invaders and the power of Islam.

PEOPLE...... 293 Many ethnic groups, but one unifying Iranian identity.

DAILY LIFE...... 295 How Iranians live and play, and the role of women in society.

IRANIAN CUISINE ...... 302 Dig into a diverse and distinctive cuisine.

FAITH IN IRAN ...... 306 An insight into Shiite Islam is key to comprehending Iranian life.

ARCHITECTURE...... 310 Beautiful Persian architecture has had a global influence.

CARPETS, ARTS & CRAFTS ...... 315 Persian carpet, arts and crafts are an integral aspect of Iran’s culture.

LITERATURE, MUSIC & CINEMA...... 320 Discover Iran’s outstanding writers, artists and film-makers.

NATURAL ENVIRONMENTS...... 326 Iran’s mountains and deserts are home to rare species. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 274

Iran Today Modern Iran seems to be forever sitting at a crossroads between Islam and the West, be- tween reformists and conservatives, between rogue state and responsible international citizen. Whichever of these Irans is in ascendance, the country remains one of the Middle East’s most important regional powers. And just as relations between Iran and ‘the Great Satan’ (USA) appeared to be thawing, along came Donald Trump.

Best on Film Regional Meddling Taste of Cherry (1997) Abbas Few countries hold as much power in the Middle East Kairostami tackles the taboo subject right now as Iran. Having taken up the mantle of de- of suicide. fender of Shiites and their interests across the region, The Apple (1998) Samira Makhmal- and having spent decades channelling funds into the baf’s stunning debut about two coffers of friendly governments and movements, Iran adolescent girls imprisoned by their now has a powerful voice in what happens in some of father. the world’s most important conflicts. Iranian-backed A Separation (2012) Asghar Farhadi’s Hezbollah is widely credited with propping up the Oscar-winning movie about a marriage Syrian government, fighting alongside government falling apart. troops to turn back the march of Islamic State and Taxi (2015) Brilliant ‘docu-fiction’ as other groups who would overthrow the Assad regime. Jafar Panahi gives a voice to ordinary In Lebanon and Iraq, both countries with Shiite ma- Iranians in a Tehran taxi. jorities like Iran, Iran has advisors on the ground and The Salesman (2016) Farhadi’s sec- provides financial support to ensure that its view of ond Oscar scoop looks at the effect of politics prevails. In this role, Iran provides a counter- an assault on a marriage. point to Saudi Arabia and the Gulf States as regional powers; Iran has also been vocal in its defence of Shi- Best in Print ite communities in Bahrain and Saudi Arabia. Perhaps Shah of Shahs (Ryszard Kapuściński; more than at any time in recent history, Iran is one 1982) Lyrical study of the Shah’s hold of the region’s most important kingmakers and policy over Iran and demise. decisions made in Tehran will play a role in determin- Mirrors of the Unseen (Jason Elliot; ing the future of the region. Which is, of course, just 2006) Perceptive and entertaining the way the Iranian government likes it. travelogue-history of Iran. Iranian Rappers and Persian Porn: A Iran & the United States Hitchhiker’s Adventures in the New Iran’s relationship with the West, particularly the United Iran (Jamie Maslin; 2013) Rollicking States, has long defined the image the country has of ride through Iran counterculture. itself and which it projects onto the world stage. The City of Lies (Ramita Navai; 2014) flashpoints have ranged from the CIA-backed coup in Gripping account of contemporary 1953 to the seizing of US embassy personnel in Tehran Iran told through a cast of Tehran in 1979. Since the Islamic Revolution, the relationship characters. has had far more lows than highs and remains one of profound mutual suspicion. Things began to thaw un- der President Khatami and many years of tough negoti- ations, sanctions and brinkmanship finally culminated ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

ايران غربی Western Iran

Includes  Why Go? Orumiyeh ...... 82 A land of wild extremes and wilder history, Western Iran Tabriz ...... 84 is the independent traveller’s adventure playground. From Jolfa ...... 94 the fecund Caspian coast to the stark, mountainous north- Ardabil ...... 97 ern borders and the crumbling desert ruins of the southern plains, the region hosts everything from paddy fields to bliz- Soltaniyeh ...... 103 zards to the original Garden of Eden. Bordering Mesopota- Rasht ...... 105 mia, Ottoman Turkey and Czarist Russia, its fortunes have Alamut Valley ...... 118 oscillated with the rise and fall of many great empires. This Shushtar ...... 141 deeply historic, starkly beautiful and incredibly hospitable place is also home to almost half of Iran’s Unesco sites. The region is a linguistic and cultural patchwork: Kurds predominate in Kordestan and Kermanshah; Lors in Ilam Best Places to and Lorestan; Arabs inhabit southern Khuzestan; Talesh Eat and Gilaki are the traditional languages of Gilan; and Azeris, whose language is more Turkish than Persian, predominate ¨¨Paradisa Ahura Daniel in the northwest. In remote regions, and in Kurdish towns, (p141) traditional dress is still worn. ¨¨Mostofi Restauant (p143) ¨¨Negarossaltaneh (p117) ¨¨Doorchin (p102) When to Go The craggy peaks of the Zagros Mountains from Hamadan ¨ ¨Shahriar (p91) northwards see snow arrive early and leave late – falls are from about November to March, while the sweltering low- lands around Shush begin to boil in June. Best Places to To make the most of the region, try visiting for the spring Sleep flowers, which bloom in April or May, or the autumn harvest of juicy grapes and delicious mulberries in September or early ¨¨Shushtar Traditional Hotel October. (p143) The crisp, clear air and low, golden light of winter make ¨¨Gileboom Eco Lodge it the best time for photographing those epic landscapes. (p111) ¨¨Hotel Anza (p97) ¨¨Bam-e Sabz (p112) ¨¨Navizar Hotel (p121)

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