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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ايران مرکزی Central Iran Includes ¨ Why Go? Qom 147 Central Iran, encompassing the magnificent cities of Esfa- Kashan 151 han, Yazd and Shiraz, is the cultural tour-de-force of Iran. Esfahan 158 Wedged between the Zagros Mountains to the west and the Dasht-e Kavir 178 Dasht-e Kavir to the east, it offers the quintessential Persian experience and it’s no coincidence that it attracts the most Yazd 182 visitors. But in an age that celebrates getting off the beat- Shiraz 195 en track, this is one destination where this is a redundant Persepolis 207 quest: for centuries people have crossed this land, following Pasargadae 210 in the footsteps of ancient empire builders, their journeys commemorated in the artistic wonders at Persepolis. You can continue that journey today, tracing the silk route along desert byways, through city bazaars and across Best Places to mountain passes – in much the same manner as the region’s Eat famous nomads. Many of the caravanserai and khans that dot these routes have been restored and overnighting in one ¨ Abbasi Teahouse & of these hospitable lodgings serves as an appointment with Traditional Restaurant (p172) history. ¨ Bastani Traditional Restaurant (p171) ¨ Shahrzad (p172) When to Go ¨ Ghavam (p205) Visit in the spring when Persian gardens are in bud, mountain orchards are full of flowers and the rose fields around Kashan ¨ Talar Yazd (p190) are at their fragrant best. Although there is some difference in climate from region to region, generally travelling in the extreme heat of summer Best Places to when temperatures can reach 50°C or more is not much fun Sleep between June to September. January and February can be equally challenging, not just ¨ Abbasi Hotel (p171) in the Zagros Mountains, but across the whole region as locals ¨ Barandaz Lodge (p181) hunker down against the freezing cold of midwinter. ¨ Saraye Ameriha Boutique Hotel (p155) ¨ Niayesh Boutique Hotel (p202) ¨ Fahadan Museum Hotel (p189) 147 Visits by non-Muslims should officially be in groups accompanied by a guide approved قم Qom % 025 / POPULATION 1,250,000 / ELEVATION 933M by the shrine stewards (who are incidentally a Iran’s second-holiest city after Mashhad, Qom mine of information about the features of the (Ghom) is home to both the magnificent complex); in practice, however, an element Hazrat-e Masumeh shrine and the hardline of discretion is exercised in permitting entry clerics who have ruled the country since 1979. to individual travellers. Women must wear a Shiite scholars and students come from across chador, available free of charge at entrance No the world to study in its madrasehs (schools) 1. Discreet photography by mobile phone was and browse in its famous religious bookshops, permitted during our visit but large cameras pilgrims pay homage at the shrine and locals were discouraged. are conspicuously pious. Travellers need to be Old Bazar BAZAAR mindful of the city’s religious nature when (Map p150; h9am-8pm Sat-Thu) This lovely old visiting and dress conservatively. Discreet be- bazaar in the heart of Qom, a short stroll haviour is particularly appreciated around the from Astane Sq, is worth a visit as one of Hazrat-e Masumeh shrine. the most authentic covered markets in Iran. Qom is one of Iran’s fastest-growing cities With a small khan in the middle, and the IRAN CENTRAL IRAN (the population has doubled since the revolu- usual labyrinth of alleyways, it is distin- tion) and the outskirts are being transformed guished from other such trading places by by a sprawl of apartment blocks. While the representing ‘business as usual’ for the local new infrastructure is rather unattractive, the citizens of Qom, with little if no concession population growth has at least brought new to modernity or visitors. A great place to life to the old centre. Qom can be visited in sense the continuity of trade over centuries. an easy day trip from Tehran or en route to SIGHT Q O M Kashan. Astane Square SQUARE (Map p150) The city’s main square is paved 1 Sights with marble and pedestrianised, offering a S oHazrat-e Masumeh SHRINE grand vista of the Hazrat-e Masumeh. The Map p150; Astane Sq; h24hr) square takes on a carnivalesque quality in ;حضرت معصومه) The physical and spiritual centre of Qom, the evening when robed clerics hurry by this magnificent shrine is the burial place of while pilgrims and scholars congregate to Imam Reza’s sister Fatemeh, who died here enjoy the open space, stroll the length of the in the 9th century. Reza was the eighth of square between the shrine and the glorious the 12 imams who descended from Prophet blue-domed Imam Hassan Mosque (Map Mohammed; as the only one of the 12 to be p150), and browse among the Islamic book- buried in Iran (in Mashhad), his sister’s bur- shops. Catering to more worldly appetites, ial site has a special resonance as a place of the souvenir shops flanking the square sell pilgrimage. Non-Muslims are allowed into delicious local sweets. the courtyards but not the shrine itself. A favourite confection of Qom is sohun, Much of what can be seen today was a sinfully sweet brittle made with pistachio, built under Shah Abbas I and the other Sa- almond, saffron and cardamom. Buying a tin favid kings in the 16th century. Anxious to of these from one of the shops (IR100,000) establish their Shiite credentials and prove and a glass of tea from the square’s tea stand they could match the sect’s shrines at Kar- is part of the local experience. bala and Najaf (in modern-day Iraq), they Astane Sq spills into a neighbouring lavished the site with courtyards of brilliant pedestrianised plaza in front of the Imam tile work. For visitors, however, it is the Hassan Mosque. A huge multistorey under- great golden cupola that distinguishes Haz- ground car park under this plaza is handy rat-e Masumeh; this was an embellishment for those driving to Qom. added by the Qajar ruler Fath Ali Shah in the early 19th century. Not to be outdone 4 Sleeping & Eating by their predecessors, successive rulers During religious festivals and on Fridays have lavished various embellishments on Qom is packed – be sure to book ahead if you the shrine complex over the years with the plan to stop over. The best place to stay is latest addition – the construction of a grand Qom International Hotel (Map p150; %025- plaza next to Astane Sq – being contributed 1771 9208; www qomhotel com; Helal Ahmar St; by today’s Ayatollahs of Qom. s/d/tr IR1,890,000/3,060,000/3,920,000; aW), ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Iran Tehran p34 Northeastern Iran p246 Western Iran p77 Central Iran p146 Southeastern Iran Persian Gulf p230 p213 THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Simon Richmond, Jean-Bernard Carillet, Mark Elliott, Anthony Ham, Jenny Walker, Steve Waters PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD Welcome to Iran . 4 TEHRAN . 34 WESTERN IRAN . 77 Iran Map . 6 Sights . 37 Bazargan . .. 80 Iran’s Top 16 . 8 Activities . 50 Maku & Around . 80 Tours . 53 Khoy . 81 Need to Know . 16 Courses . 53 Orumiyeh . 82 First Time Sleeping . 53 Maraqeh . 84 Iran . 18 Eating . 58 Tabriz . 84 If You Like… . 20 Drinking & Nightlife . 61 Kandovan . 94 Month by Month . 22 Entertainment . 64 Jolfa . .. 94 Shopping . 65 Aras River Valley . .. 95 Itineraries . 24 Around Tehran . 72 Kaleybar . 97 Visas & Planning . 27 Alborz Ski Resorts . 72 Ardabil . 97 Regions at a Glance . .. 31 Mt Damavand . 74 Khal Khal . 100 Rey . 75 Zanjan . 100 Soltaniyeh . 103 TUUL & BRUNO MORANDI / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / MORANDI BRUNO & TUUL © 500PX / DOMIRI GANJI MOHAMMAD REZA OLJEITU MAUSOLEUM, SOLTANIYEH P103 JAMES STRACHAN / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / STRACHAN JAMES PERSIAN RUG WEAVING MASJED-E NASIR-AL-MOLK, P316 SHIRAZ P198 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 369 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. Martin, Klaas Flechsig, Larissa Chu, Leigh Dehaney, OUR READERS Leonie Gavalas, Lianne Bosch, Lisandra Ilisei, Luis Many thanks to the travellers who used the last Maia, Luzius Thuerlimann, Maarten Jan Oskam, edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful Maksymilian Dzwonek, Manfred Henze, Marc Verkerk, advice and interesting anecdotes: Adriaan van Dijk, Marcel Althaus, Marei Bauer, Marianne Schoone, Adrian Ineichen, Adrien Bitton, Adrien Ledeul, Agapi Mario Sergio Dd Oliveira Pinto, Marjolijn Polman, Galenianou, Alan & Lynn Taylor, Alan Keltner, Alberto Martin Hausmann, Mary Gavan, Mehmet Gavremo- Ibanez, Alexis Haneke, Alfred Schupp, Amanda glu, Michael Chow, Mike van kruchten, Mina Rahimi, Löwenberg, Amir Qaredaghi, Ana Hocevar, Ana Mirka Badinska, Mohammad Afshinfar,
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    IN THE NAME OF GOD IRAN NAMA RAILWAY TOURISM GUIDE OF IRAN List of Content Preamble ....................................................................... 6 History ............................................................................. 7 Tehran Station ................................................................ 8 Tehran - Mashhad Route .............................................. 12 IRAN NRAILWAYAMA TOURISM GUIDE OF IRAN Tehran - Jolfa Route ..................................................... 32 Collection and Edition: Public Relations (RAI) Tourism Content Collection: Abdollah Abbaszadeh Design and Graphics: Reza Hozzar Moghaddam Photos: Siamak Iman Pour, Benyamin Tehran - Bandarabbas Route 48 Khodadadi, Hatef Homaei, Saeed Mahmoodi Aznaveh, javad Najaf ...................................... Alizadeh, Caspian Makak, Ocean Zakarian, Davood Vakilzadeh, Arash Simaei, Abbas Jafari, Mohammadreza Baharnaz, Homayoun Amir yeganeh, Kianush Jafari Producer: Public Relations (RAI) Tehran - Goragn Route 64 Translation: Seyed Ebrahim Fazli Zenooz - ................................................ International Affairs Bureau (RAI) Address: Public Relations, Central Building of Railways, Africa Blvd., Argentina Sq., Tehran- Iran. www.rai.ir Tehran - Shiraz Route................................................... 80 First Edition January 2016 All rights reserved. Tehran - Khorramshahr Route .................................... 96 Tehran - Kerman Route .............................................114 Islamic Republic of Iran The Railways