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; •'-''' '•' - HSKsSsTm " '-v ' ,:.' »3 J.-,Y->. ' U OFF LIBRARIES D. P. McAULIFFE WILLIE K. FRIAR Administrator Editor PANAMA CANAL fra g FERNANDO MANFREDO Jr. VlCKI M. BOATWR1GHT Deputy Administrator RevieV Assistant Editor

OCTOBER 1, 1980 VICTOR G. CANEL Writers Information Officer Fannie P. Hernandez, Janet Len-Rios

In This Issue THE PANAMA CANAL COMMISSION, THE NEW AGENCY WHICH operates the Panama Canal, is one year old this month. This edition of the Review is part of the observance of that anniversary and reflected in its pages are some of the many changes resulting from implementation of the new Panama ABOUT OUR PHOTOGRAPHS-A Canal treaty which created the agency. camper's bright red tent adds a spot of A close look reveals a change in the Review itself. The logo, which appears on color to the the cover and above, has been slightly tranquil scene photographed modified while a new insignia is being for the cover created to replace the by Mel Kennedy who is also Canal Zone seal, which had been included in the name responsible for most of the beach scenes from the time the first issue appeared May 1, 1950. including the "Gold Coast "sunset at left. The cover story is a special tribute to the Atlantic side employees. Written by On the following two pages a panoramic Susan Stabler, lives who on the Atlantic side, it emphasizes the great diverstiy of view from atop Ancon Hill shows ships outdoor life and the beauty of the unspoiled beaches on the "Gold Coast." moving through the Canal A past the port nostalgic look at an Atlantic side landmark of yesterday is provided by of Balboa which, along with Cristobal, Canal pilot Norman Werner who writes of Colon's most famous saloon. is operated by the Panama Port Au- Graphic Branch photographers thority. Panama Canal Commission head whose work appears in this edition are: Mel Kennedy, Don Goode, Kevin Jenkins, Alberto quarters is in the right foreground. In- Acevedo, Arthur L. Pollack, and Bob Rogers. All side the back cover, a Norwegian dry artwork, unless otherwise credited, is by Carlos Mendez'. bulk carrier, followed by a U.S. oil tanker, passes through Gaillard Cut on a misty rainy season morning. Both Panama Canal Commission Board of Directors photos are by Don Goode. Kevin Jen- 8 kins visited Charco Azul to photograph Organization Chart 10 the new terminal for the update on the Canal Happenings 11 North Slope oil story, 28-33. page The The "Other Side" 12 sensitive portrayal of two small children Remembering Bilgray's 22 and their father on an outing, pages 42- The QE2 Moves Through Gaillard Cut 26 44 is by Arthur L. Pollack. The center- Link in the Oil fold, showing the "QE2" moving through A New Line 28 Gaillard Cut, is by Adrian Stallworth. The Locomotive Component Repair Facility 34 The "QE2", which holds the toll record, The Changing Scene 40 paid $89,154.62 on her seventh transit Exploring the Gentle Jungle 42 January 25, 1980. The Canal's Underwater Work Force 45

REVIEW RECEIVES AWARD-Although the 30th anniversary of the Review passed quietly in May, there was cause for celebration a month later when the October 1, 1979 edition won third place in the "house organ" category of the Blue Pencil Awards for outstanding publications. The Blue Pencil Publications Contest is sponsored by the National Association of Govern- ment Communicators, a non-profit organization devoted to education and professional development at the local, state and federal levels. This year there were 525 entries and 73 received recognition. Credit for this noteworthy achievement goes not only to the editorial staff, but also to personnel of the Agency Press and Duplicating Center who were responsible for the typesetting and composition.

Official Panama Canal Publication

All articles and illustrations in the Panama Canal Review may be reprinted in full or in part

without further permission by crediting the Panama Canal Review as the source. The Review is normally published twice a year. Yearly subscription is $3 for regular mail and $6 for airmail. The price for back issues is $1.50 for regular and $3 when sent by airmail. For subscriptions, send check or money order made payable to the Panama Canal Commission to Panama Canal Review, Panama

Canal Commission Public Information Office, A.P.O. Miami, Fla 34011 The editorial office is located in Room 100 Administration Building, Balboa Heights, Republic of Panama.

The Panama Canal Review

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and complex enterprise has and in all areas of the T.he year that has passed continued to provide to the Commission. since the last issue of the world stands as a tribute to Panama has cooperated REVIEW appeared has been a the dedicated and skilled work with us and assisted fully in time of change, but also a force of the Panama Canal carrying out the treaty's time of continuity and Commission. provisions. The channels of achievement. The enduring This past year has been communication and coordina- mission of the Panama Canal, remarkable because of the tion by which the new of course, has not changed. innumerable changes and partnership arrangements are

Now in its sixty-seventh year, innovations we have been put into practice have been the waterway continues to challenged to carry out by established. The binational carry the ships of the world virtue of the new treaty with Board of Directors has safely and efficiently across Panama, while also sustaining assumed its responsibilities in the Isthmus. Larger ships and the operation of the Canal. a spirit of cooperation and more tonnage are transiting We have made good progress practicality, and the other the Canal than ever before in in adjusting our management binational bodies created to its history. Also unchanged is and the entire operating deal with day-to-day problems the ceaseless effort which organization to the new pertaining to the canal and goes into maintaining and situation, as well as in our work force are functioning improving the Canal — the restoring stability to our work effectively. multitude of tasks involved in force. Our financial footing is The Panama Canal straightening and deepening sound. Training of our Commission is off to a good the channel, renewing and employees, which has always start in the new treaty era. overhauling the equipment, been an important objective, Future prospects are bright. protecting the banks, and has received renewed preserving the lakes and emphasis. It is the key to watershed which sustain the fulfilling the treaty require- Canal. The uninterrupted ment to increase the number service which this immense of Panamanians at all levels

October 1, 1980 A,,11 during the treaty during that period of time an We are living through a negotiations and even after even stronger sense of particularly challenging time.

the signing of the Panama partnership, which is the most But the past year has proved Canal treaties of 1977, which crucial element of the that the maritime nations of went into effect just a year transition period for the next the world can rely on the new ago, there were many who 20 years. treaty-created agency predicted that the very Nevertheless, we must to operate the Panama Canal concept of a partnership recognize that the risks were in the same efficient manner

between Panama and the there and it was only through in the future as it has United States would not the good judgment, sense of operated for the past 66 work. They cited cultural, responsibility and maturity of years. political, economic differences those involved that the and memories of many past dangers were avoided. Credit incidents between the two must go especially to the countries as their reasons. officials concerned with After a year of operation binational relations and to the

under the new pattern, it is thousands of Panamanians clear that those predictions and U.S. workers, many of were unfounded. The Canal is whom have had to face a operating effectively and effi- number of sacrifices due to ciently and we have evolved the Treaty implementation.

Above left: An Alaska oil tanker transits south as Administrator

D. P. McAuliffe, left and Deputy Administrator Fernando Manfredo discuss operations at Miraflores Locks. At right: The Panamanian flag flies in the place of honor in front of the Administration Building reflecting the new relationship between Panama and the United States.

The Panama Canal Review Panama Canal Commission Board of Directors Meets

By Fannie P. Hernandez

THE NINE MEMBERS OF THE the Panama Canal Treaty of 1977; Orleans; O'Hara and Paredes. binational Board of Directors of the election of Blumenfeld as These same four Directors the Panama Canal Commission, the Chairman of the Board; and the constitute the Committee on Long United States agency that operates designation of Executive, Budget Range Canal Improvements. the Panama Canal, met for the first Finance, and and Personnel Clark was named Chairman of time on June 2 in the Administration committees, and the Committee on the Personnel Committee and Building at Balboa Heights. Long Range Canal Improvements. members are Panama businessman During the historic three-day Chairman of the Board Heurtematte; Sidell, former General meeting the five four Blumenfeld U.S. and was named Chairman of President of the Carpenters and Panamanian board members, for the the Executive Committee, whose Joiners Union; and Paredes. first time, together assumed other members are Bushnell. The Board of Directors appointed responsibility for policy-making and Deputy Assistant Secretary of State Michael Rhode Jr. as the Secretary supervision of the affairs of the for Inter-American Affairs; O'Hara, of the Panama Canal Commission, Panama Canal Commission. Director of Port Commerce, New the head of the Canal's Washington, The U.S. members of the Board York and New Jersey Port D.C. office. are Assistant Secretary of the Army Authority; Rodriguez, Panama's President Carter appointed the Michael Blumenfeld and John A. Minister of Government and Justice; members of the Board of Directors Bushnell of Connecticut; John Clark and Paredes, Executive Director of on April 11, following the Senate's of Louisiana; Clifford O'Hara of Panama's Treaty Affairs Office. approval on April 2 of his choice of Connecticut and William Sidell of Members of the Executive candidates announced on January 7. California. Committee, with the exception of Assistant Secretary of the Army The Panamanian members are the Chairman, are elected each year for Civil Works since May 1977, and Edwin Fabrega, Roberto Heurte- by the Board. former Deputy Undersecretary of matte, Ricardo A. Rodriguez and Fabrega, Director General of the Army, Blumenfeld served on the Tomas Paredes. Panama's Institute of Hydraulic board of directors of the former Among the actions taken by the Resources and Electrification, was Panama Canal Company and as Board at that first meeting were the named Chairman of the Budget and chairman of the Canal Zone Civilian approval of regulations which Finance Committee. Members are J. Personnel Policy Coordinating govern the functions and respon- W. Clark, President of Clark Board. In his capacity as Assistant sibilities of the Board as specified in Maritime Associates, Inc. New Secretary of the Army for Civil Works, he also oversees the water resources development program for the Army Corps of Engineers. /.-. safety garb. Assistant Secretary of the Army for Bushnell, Deputy Assistant Civil Works Michael Secretary of State for Inter- Blumenfeld, Commission American Affairs since January Administrator D. P. 1978, has been a Foreign Service McAuliffe, right, and Officer since 1959 with experience Locks Division Chief in several Latin American countries. Lawrence Barca, left, are He also served as Deputy Assistant followed by Lt. Gen. Secretary of the Treasury for W. H. Nutting, Developing Nations, Finance. Commander-in-Chief, USSOUTHCOM, and Clark is president of Clark Lt. Gen. Welborn Dolvin, Maritime Associates, a New Orleans a member of the shipping firm, and a member of the Consultative Committee, board of Commissioners of the Port during a tour of Canal of New Orleans. He is a retired operations. captain of the U.S. Merchant Marine and a 1940 graduate of the U.S. Merchant Marine Academy.

8 October 1, 1980 Clark was president and director of the Delta Line from 1959 to 1979 and served as chairman of the Committee of American Steamship Lines. He also was president of the New Orleans International Trade Mart for five years and coordinated the development of the New Orleans international trade complex. O'Hara has served as director of Port Commerce for the Port Authority of New York and New Jersey since 1962, and as chief of the Port Commerce Division from 1953 to 1962. He is president of the American Association of Port Authorities, past president of the

North Atlantic Ports Association, Board members from left, Tomas Paredes, Ricardo A. Rodriguez, Michael president of the Containerization Blumenfeld, John A. Bushnell; back row, Roberto Heurtematte, Edwin Fabrega, Institute, and serves on the New John Clark, Clifford O'Hara and William Sidell York Chamber of Commerce and Industry's World Trade Committee, General of the Planning and currently serving as Panama's and Harbor and Shipping Administration Office of the Minister of Government and Justice. Committee. Presidencia and has served in a A former member of the law firm of Sidell, who retired last year number of other government posts. De La Guardia, Arosemena and as general president of the United Heurtematte served as am- Benedetti (1961-69), Rodriguez was States Brotherhood of Carpenters bassador to the United States and on two separate occasions a and Joiners of America, a position was concurrently Panama's member of the Legislative he held since 1972, is a member of ambassador-representative to the Commission. He has served as the Executive Council of the AFL- OAS. He is a prominent Presidential advisor, and legal CIO and chairman of its Housing businessman with a long public advisor to the University of Panama and Urban Development Committee career and was a negotiator of the and to the former Panama Canal and a member of the committees on 1955 Remon-Eisenhower Treaty, Authority. Rodriguez was also Civil Rights, Legislative and Political Controller-General of the Republic Minister of Government and Justice Education. Sidell is also a member and ex-officio board member of from 1974 to 1976. of the Executive Council of the Panama Government autonomous Paredes, an engineer, was Maritime Trades Department and institutions such as Social Security, appointed in February as Executive the Executive Council of the Economic Development Institute, Director of Panama's Treaty Affairs Building and Construction Trades and the Highway and Waterworks in the Ministry of the Presidencia. Department. commissions. He served as United He was the director of the former Fabrega, an architect and former Nations Commissioner for Technical Panama Canal Authority and served Minister of Public Works, was a Assistance, as Associate Managing also as its deputy director and as member of Panama's negotiating Director of the U.N.'s Special Fund director of Planning and Develop- team regarding "Lands, Water and for assistance to under-developed ment. Paredes was previously Administration." He has served as countries, and as Associate finance manager of Corporaci6n rector of the University of Panama Administrator of the U.N.'s Financiera Nacional (COFINA), and and was the principal member of the Development Program. After retiring taught engineering at the University firm De Diego and Fabrega, S.A., in 1969, he returned to his business of Panama. He also has served on Consultants and Builders. He held activities and local affairs. the board of directors of several the position of Deputy Director An attorney, Rodriguez is business firms in Panama.

The Panama Canal Review Shown above is the organization chart of the Panama Canal Commission, the U.S. Government agency, which operates the Canal. The Commission has a binational supervisory board of nine members. The chief executive officer, the Administrator, is a U.S. citizen; the Deputy Administrator is a Panamanian citizen. Beginning in 1990, the positions will be reversed with a Panamanian serving as the Administrator and a U.S. citizen as the Deputy. The Commission has about 8,000 employees, the majority, Panamanian.

The Commission replaced the former Panama Canal Company on October 1, 1979; on that date also the Canal Zone and its Government were disestablished.

Heavy traffic in Miraflores and Pedro Miguel locks shows that the Canal is "a highway of water" in this scene taken with a telephoto lens from Ancon Hill. During the first six months of FY80, 7,192 vessels transited the Canal.

10 October 1, 1980 Happenings at the Canal

It was "lights, camera, action" at Miraflores Locks for the filming of the "Love Boat,"

at left, and the "love bug" Herbie, at right; and below, a star of the Cunard fleet, the THE PANAMA CANAL OPENS "Cunard Princess," its gates to many different kinds makes her Canal of watercraft during the course of a debut. year—from sailboats to supertankers —but 1980 was something special. This year, two "princesses" and a "beetle" made their way to the locks, creating a stir of excitement for Canal watchers. The Princess Line's Island Princess, a regular Canal customer and now the setting for the popular U.S. television series "Love Boat," was filmed on location at Miraflores Locks earlier this year. The weekly TV show con- cerns the lives and loves of passengers aboard the cruise ship and features a new cast of stars each week, in addi- tion to the regulars who play the captain and crew. Aboard the "Love Boat" on this trip through the locks were Debbie Reynolds, Peter Graves and Ted Knight. Camera crews set up their equipment at the side of the lock wall at Miraflores to film the vessel in transit. The sleek, white vessel, about one- and equipment of the Locks, Dredg- Eight months out of the year the third the size of the QE2, eased its ing and Transit Operations divisions Island Princess cruises the Caribbean, 75-foot beam through the locks and the Panama Canal Information carrying 670 passengers on a tour that effortlessly as passengers filled the Office assisted the Disney Produc- includes Acapulco, Aruba and San decks to get a look at one of the tions crew with the project, which Juan, Puerto Rico. man-made wonders of the world. involved lowering Herbie into the Another princess that cruises the And speaking of man-made lower west chamber by crane during

Caribbean took her maiden voyage wonders, the little Volkswagen beetle a lull in ship traffic. Out of camera view through the Canal this year. The "Herbie" motored through the miter in the back of the car was Herbie's Cunard Princess, little sister to the gates at Miraflores for a scene from keeper, special effects man Hans Queen Elizabeth 2, was on an odyssey Walt Disney's latest movie about the Metz, who controlled the VW's move- that started out in San Juan and cul- peripatetic little car that thinks and ments while sitting waist deep in the minated with a first-time journey acts on its own. This particular Herbie half-submerged vehicle. northward to Alaska. Like the QE2, (there have been several hundred "Herbie Goes Bananas" was re- the Cunard Princess is a floating used in making the popular, Grated leased in the United States during the city, complete with elegant dining films) was an aquatic version con- summer and featured some Isthmian facilities, a beauty shop, hospital and sisting of a VW body mounted on a residents in its cast, including a couple even a night club, where passengers styrofoam float equipped with a small of Panama Canal control house can disco the night away. motor and two propellers. Personnel operators.

The Panama Canal Review 11

THOSE OF US WHO LIVE ON "the other side"— that is, around the Atlantic end of the Panama Canal— are reputed to suffer from something called the Atlantic side syndrome, brought on by the isolation of living there. "Other Side": pattern The Now a syndrome is a of symptoms, which suggests illness, and from the sound of the word one might way it is expect an Atlantic sider to have a the nervous twitch and an unhealthy pallor. But the truth is that except for an occasional bout of exasperation accompanied by deep sighing. At lantic siders manifest a remarkable vitality. In fact, the Atlantic side is By Susan L. Stabler often referred to as the Gold Coast, and many of its residents prefer to live there rather than on the more populated Pacific side. No, the Atlantic side syndrome isn't

6 It is a measure of Gold Coast unique-

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La Guayra

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Maria Chiquita a health problem; but perhaps one dern dwellings. Playgrounds abound Leslie displayed her amazement at the suggestion replied, rather cryp- could call it a problem of "perception." in all areas and most communities and For its primary symptom is the have ready access to swimming pools. tically, that she and her mother did not perception among residents there that Streets are wide and well lit at night, want to move across the Isthmus. planning and provisioning are done by whether you're in Gatun or Los Rios. When asked why not, she said simply, ." Pacific siders with the Pacific side in So where do the differences lie? "Our side is much more peaceful . . mind and with Atlantic side needs and On the Atlantic side, one is struck Adult impressions of the Atlantic concerns attended to only as an immediately by the wide open spaces, side do not vary greatly from the afterthought. Although they recog- an abundance of and proximity to youthful observations of the 7-year- nize that the Atlantic side commu- both fresh and salt water, miles old. Slow, easy, peaceful, friendly, and nities taken together have a tiny between communities, small popula- unharried are apt descriptions of life population compared to the Pacific tion and minimal traffic. Although on the other side. There is but one side, they interpret the by-the-book comprised of several civilian town- traffic light on the Atlantic side, dollars and cents approach to the sites — Gatun, Mindi, Margarita, located at the transisthmian entrance provision of health care, schools and France Field and Coco Solo—and to all points. One expects and finds commissary services as lacking the various military areas, the total uncrowded commissaries, small empathy extended to the Pacific side. population size on the Atlantic side is schools, and people who almost all

It is this perception shared by so limited that the entire area seems know each other's first names. Nearly Atlantic siders that tends to dis- rather to be one amiable, sprawling always, a relaxed, small-town at- tinguish them from their cousins on small town. It is this small-town mosphere prevails. the Pacific side in relationship to how atmosphere, coupled with distance This atmosphere isn't generated; it they view day-to-day occurrences in from officialdom, limited access to city plainly just exists, and distance from the community or on the job. life and an easy closeness to the Panama Canal Commission hierarchy To deal with this problem, to keep outdoors, which makes the Atlantic is, at least, a partial contribution,. It is the avenues of communication open, side unique. the nature of life around the Panama the Canal organization has tradi- Canal that a surface distance of only tionally assigned a top official to act as 50 miles, or an air distance of only 36

. of the unofficial "mayor" of the Atlantic side 6. . miles and miles of miles, can so isolate one end community to try to add the needed Canal from the other. Gatun boasts natural and easily personal touch. The Administrator's the most dramatic set of locks, and, at representatives push for greater rec- accessible beaches, one time, the Atlantic side was ognition of Atlantic side concerns, but intended to be the Canal head- many of the drawbacks of Atlantic untamed jungles, quarters, yet somehow along the way, side life are not amenable to change. the hierarchy established itself on the gorgeous reefs and The Canal administration can't do Pacific side. In fact, only one division, anything about the overabundant unparalleled beauty. 9 the Industrial Division, has its head- rainfall that makes getting around on quarters on the Atlantic side. the Atlantic side a matter of keeping Headquarters for all other facets of one eye on the clouds, and it would All Commission employees know Commission living are far removed take an Act of Congress to get a that collectively they have an un- from the everyday life of Atlantic bridge built to span Gatun Locks so disputed task — that of putting ships siders; and although this aspect of that we wouldn't have to sit in our cars through the Panama Canal. Atlantic Atlantic area living contributes to the and wait for the lock gate bridge to siders are particularly focused on this syndrome, it also contributes to a clear when we are on our way to responsibility because by occupation surprising esprit de corps. The Shimmy Beach or Fort San Lorenzo. most have a direct association with absence of administration breeds an But this brings us to another aspect locks, ships, tugs, launches and atmosphere of unstrained indepen- of the Atlantic side syndrome, the channels. The grass roots loyalty they dence and a deep dedication to the positive aspect that Pacific siders are feel to the mission of the Canal is job. prone to overlook. In having to echoed in their attitudes toward each The very distance from the central accept, or at least tolerate, what other as well. hubbub, however, also dictates a need cannot be changed, whether it's too As a result, it is more myth than fact for Atlantic siders to travel frequently much rain or too little attention from to say that Atlantic siders long for life between the two sides of the Isthmus. Pacific side planners, Atlantic siders on the more largely populated Pacific Consequently, it is a private joke are bound together in a close-knit, side. Bob Lessiack, retired assistant among Atlantic siders that the reach caring community, sharing each financial vice president of the erst- from Cristobal to Balboa is shorter other's concerns and meeting each while Panama Canal Company, tells a than that from Balboa to Cristobal. other's needs. story of his then 7-year-old grand- Residents of the Atlantic side must Oddly, when comparing the two daughter, who, with him, engaged in a more frequently travel far from home sides of the Isthmus, the fundamental conversation one day with former to attend meetings on the Pacific side similarities are very striking. Housing Governor H. R. Parfitt. The Governor than is true in reverse. It is a way of life on both sides is comparable. Both asked Leslie, an Atlantic sider, whether and, oddly, contributes still further to have their share of vintage housing she would like to live on the Pacific the unity that exists. interspersed with newer, more mo- side where her grandparents lived. If the absence of main offices gives

16 October 1, 1980 The Panama Canal Review 17 9

rise to a closeness among employees Celebrations and tragedies, too, on the Atlantic side, the mere size of bring together more than just friends.

population magnifies it. Num- spirit hovers that is understood, $A spirit hovers that the A bering only about 1,356 employees as appreciated and treasured by native is understood, appreci- compared to an approximate 7,230 Atlantic siders. They embrace and employees on the Pacific side, Atlantic support one another in a way ated and treasured by siders as a group are closely knit. Any reminiscent of Canal construction native Atlantic siders. Atlantic area celebration can easily days and earlier, nearly forgotten accommodate a maximum crowd in a times in American life. setting about half the size of a football One of the most cherished aspects field. One is reminded in particular of of Atlantic side living is its schools. the annual Holy Family Catholic Parents personally know teachers, Church Carnival. Here Atlantic siders and teachers personally know the join hands to put on and patronize a students in their classes. Cristobal charity event. Always the same faces High School usually graduates a class abound on either side of the counter, of one hundred seniors or less. The and always patrons and workers alike students are fiercely loyal to each are eager that the charity be a other, and the teachers look on their

success. It is ever thus, year after year, graduates with pride. It is interesting

and no one expects it to ever be any to note that on the Atlantic side there different. is a combined Junior-Senior High Something else Atlantic siders School comprised of students in never expect to be different is their grades seven through twelve, with a Christmas Eve celebration, replete total of approximately 630 pupils. On with a truck-drawn sleigh carrying the Pacific side, on the other hand,

Santa, his elf, his helpers and piles of one finds Curundu Junior High gifts. The Cristobal High School stage School (grades 7 through 9) with a band and many truckloads of caroling student load of 1,350 and Balboa High youngsters follow the sleigh, while a School (grades 10 through 12) with police car leads the entourage from students numbering 1,300. With such townsite to townsite delivering gifts to a striking difference in the total

eager children. enrollment picture, it is easy to see

18 October 1, 1980 why Atlantic side schools have a offering of recreational activities. but the turnout is always good. Any substantial crowd, special aura. There are abundant theaters, in- gathering draws a Although there are more and larger numerable restaurants, entertaining and conversations are picked up schools on the Pacific side than on the shows, ample hotels, and frequent where they left off the last time. that Atlantic, their curriculums are essen- cultural offerings. Colon on the Atlantic siders often feel they of both worlds. Whereas tially equal. Cristobal Junior-Senior Atlantic side, conversely, has been have the best High School, however, because of a hampered for decades by an inability they zealously enjoy their life styles, that Pacific side diminishing number of students, is to spread out and develop. Con- they know always the city is there for an evening out, a shopping finding it increasingly difficult to offer sequently there is little in that of an as many course selections as are entertainment or dining nature. Res- spree or a change of pace. Pacific to the offered on the Pacific side. But quality taurants can be numbered on one siders seldom make a trip But ah education remains, and, perhaps hand and there is but one inviting Atlantic side for like purposes.

. . missing. because the teachers are concerned theater. The Hotel Washington is . what they are about equal education on both sides of lovely, but has nothing of the allure of It's not by accident that the Atlantic Coast." the Isthmus, one finds a great deal of the night spots in Panama City. side is fondly called the "Gold sailor, the bota- teacher sharing in ideas and method- All this means that Atlantic siders The fisherman, the birdwatcher, the ology. Students are students every- either have to do without the bright nist, the biologist, the the water where, and Atlantic side kids behave lights and city people or they have to diver, the beachcomber, the surfer, exist on the like any other as they travel that travel further to enjoy them. Some- skier, and equalled bumpy path of school, athletics, times they travel, but as a rule they do Atlantic side in an abundance world. mere romance and friendship that we call without, and instead provide their own but few places in the A front door adolescence. In a small community, entertainment. half hour at most from any however, they are ever under the On the Atlantic side, everyone there are Gatun Lake, Limon Bay, the Atlantic Ocean, watchful eye of their teachers and listens for word-of-mouth notice that Chagres River, the easily their parents and their parents' there is going to be a fish fry at the miles and miles of natural and jungles, friends. Little goes unnoticed. Tarpon Club, a play, talent show or accessible beaches, untamed reefs and unparalleled Not only is there a significantly concert at the high school, steak gorgeous smaller Commission population on night, sailboat races, or a St. Patrick's beauty. side for the Atlantic side, but also poignantly Day celebration at the Gatun Yacht No one lives on the Atlantic of different are the Panamanian cities of Club, a dance at the Elks Club, or a long without becoming something Panama and Colon. On the Pacific kite-flying contest in Coco Solo. And an outdoor person. Where else in the fish for bass early in side, Panama City has a tremendous not only do they listen for the notice, world could one

The Panama Canal Review 19

Down the coast from Limon Bay are negotiating a small waterfall. It is beautiful and rich fauna. On the Nowhere on the Atlantic side do the On some alternate Sundays, larger and beaches. Unless one beaches where privacy is Atlantic side sloths, venturesome the Atlantic at these possums, and two great beauties of jungle and water sailboats as well as some encounters a syndromatic wait at the sacred. More often than not, gato solos still abound and are seen come together more exquisitely than race out from the Cristobal almost slowly through small ones Bridge, ^Moving Limon Gatun Locks Vehicular patrons respect the claim made by the regularly making their way across not- on the Chagres River. Motorboating Yacht Club into Limon Bay. getting to the beaches requires very automobile parked at the cleared too-busy streets. Recently in Gatun a down the river during the daylight or waters of the Chagres, an anchorage for ships waiting first the Bay is at little time. Shimmy Beach, located at the end of the road in. jaguarundi was spotted as it darted moonlight is a favorite pastime services or expecting to space hours for bunkering beach the dense jungle of the calm, Fort Sherman, is a public Probably the best-known beach on quickly from one side of the road to of many Atlantic siders. Moving slowly a Canal transit. It is a begin bars, for replete with lifeguards, snack Atlantic side is Pifia Beach. It is the other, a fleeting reminder of our through the waters of the Chagres the on either sheltered body of water excellent the river banks the like. It is as well as soda machines and also probably the most dangerous and untamed tropical surroundings. dense jungle of the river banks on its intended purpose, protected by a shark net and is a therefore, the most respected. The The lush vegetation on the Atlantic either side, one feels a oneness with side, one feels a one- for the day sailor or delightful outings. protected favorite spot for family undertow at Pifia Beach can unnerve side provides a perfect haven for nature that thrills the soul. And yet motorboat enthusiast. It is with nature that however, are ness few feet Further down the coast, and frighten even the hardiest hundreds of species of tropical and getting to the Chagres River is no by a breakwater which is a was the raw beaches that Atlantic siders swimmer. Americans and Panama- migrating birds. Bird watchers are more complicated or time-consuming thrills the soul. 9 less than two miles long and which bonanza. with rock regard as their real nians alike have built beach cottages guaranteed good luck any time they than getting to a little league baseball built at a cost of $5,500,000 Devil's Beach has something for Pina Beach and have on its shores make an outing, for the Atlantic side game. especially quarried at Porto Bello. at ten its dry everyone. Surfers hang on same sort of hideaways that holds a record for sightings in the that's it is on the Atlantic Walking the breakwater is a thrill. the And how season waves, beachcombers seldom abound on the shores of the Pacific Audubon Society's yearly Christmas side— in the absence of bright lights Not terribly dangerous on a calm day, divers delight in battle against the go away disappointed, Ocean at San Carlos, Gorgona, Rio bird count. and city people, Atlantic siders it can erupt into a sailing before lunch, bathers the morning, go its underwater beauty, and Mar and Santa Clara. Yet the charm The same lush vegetation which provide their own entertainment; raging sea when winds grow high. Chagres River in the motor down the bask in its warm water and bright Pifia Beach is that its visitors are harbors the birds and wildlife is a study because of their virtual isolation from Waves crash over its firmly placed of have a cookout at Pifia afternoon and sunshine. And there is a "secret" area usually only half an hour away from in itself. Atlantic siders seem to be the powers-that-be, they rely greatly rocks, and the breakwater then evening? Better still, Beach in the of Devil's Beach which one can reach surrounded by jungle, and the bo- on their ingenuity; due in large becomes a bitter reminder of its own home. own their nearness to nature, because of by walking through a small jungle Enjoyment of the outdoors on the tanical beauty of the jungle creeps part to their small population size, necessity. None of the Cristobal Atlantic siders can do any of these harbor and port areas nor the shores path. Atlantic side is certainly not limited to readily into Atlantic siders' backyard. Atlantic siders draw together in a spirit the time they have after work things in Beyond Devil's Beach are the more Wildlife enthusiasts find There are orchids and bromeliads in of loyalty and supportiveness; and, of Colon, Coco Solo, or Fort Sherman its beaches. afternoon. in an beaches, which can be reached to virtual houseplants so deli- could exist as they are without it. hidden the Atlantic side be a abundance and can be with their townsites nestled out to the Gatun Yacht Venture only by trek through thick jungle. At So unspoiled are the found readily by the sides of jungle ciously close to the ocean, the lake, There is only a two-foot tide on the wonderland. afternoon and you will Club on any of them can be approached Atlantic side, but the ocean is seldom least one nearby jungles that wildlife hobbyists roads. Over the years the jungles have the river and the jungle, they embrace some spirited undoubtedly encounter a couple of streams calm. only by fording and professionals rejoice in the remained virtually untouched. the tropical outdoors. windsurfers, riders of what is essen- tially a surfboard with a sail. Wind surfing, fast becoming one of the most popular sailing sports in the world, was introduced into Panama at the Gatun Yacht Club. The first rig was brought to the club by Gary Smith, senior control house operator at Gatun Locks. In less than a year a sort of windsurfing club has grown, and there are now about eleven boards and fifteen proficient windsurfers. It is a measure of Gold Coast uniqueness to look out across the lake and see solid and striped sails of yellow, orange, blue, green and purple frolicking around the ships at the entrance to Gatun Locks. Not too long ago, a visitor went so far as to windsurf from the Gatun Yacht Club to Pedro Miguel. Dry season and heavy winds are especially appreciated on the Atlantic side. Laser sailboat races are held every other Sunday at the Gatun Yacht Club. There is a fleet of about fifteen boats, crewed by people of all ages, sizes and both sexes. They compete in rigorous but enjoyable races out across the channel to Navy Island and back. At the club a youngster can learn to sail under the tutelage of able adults, and club members act as lifeguards for each other and for their young people. ON THE CORNER OF 10th Street and Bottle Alley in the Panama Canal terminal city of Colon stands an aged two-story building of European design. The upper story houses living quarters open to balconies cluttered with laundry drying in the warm Caribbean breeze. The ground level

is occupied by a commercial enterprise advertising Asian-made electronic equipment. Passersby seem unaware that the building was for fifty years the Gold Coast de facto civic center and gathering spot for the famous and powerful who had occasion to visit the Isthmus of Panama. From 1924 to 1974 the antiquated building housed the world renowned Bilgray's Tropic Bar and Restaurant, an oasis alongside a major ocean trade route.

Bilgray's Tropic Bar was a saloon in the finest tradition of the term. Like similar establishments located where shipping lanes constrict, such as the Cabo de Homos Hotel on

the Magellan Straits, it welcomed travelers and local patrons alike, as there were few other reputable places in town.

The Tropic Bar shunned juke N boxes, bright lights, and flashy ladies at a time when across the Isthmus in Panama City, Kelly's Ritz, the most well-known cabaret during Panama's boisterous era, packed them in to hear "a thousand pounds Remembering of harmony," four pleasingly plump girls who could really sing.

Bilgray's Tropic featured a fifteen- foot long, stand-up bar of heavy dark mahogany, paralleled by a Bilgray's brass foot rail, where a thirsty customer could perch and be sure of getting his money's worth. Below slowly revolving ceiling fans were circular mahogany tables twenty-six, by A. Norman Werner inches in diameter standing on the

tile floor. Bartenders and waiters in white shirts, black ties, and black trousers attended the customers at the tables, scurrying in with food from the adjacent restaurant. The restaurant was operated by a Chinese concessionaire who had remained in Panama after his people had finished their contribution to the creation of the Panama Canal. The walls of Bilgray's Tropic were Sketches by hung with autographed photos of John B. Morton the great and near great who had

22 October 1, 1980 passed through the doorless entrance. Among them were stars of the silver screen, such as Dick 6 Many a Canal worker stranded in Powell, Joan Blondell, and the swashbuckling Errol Flynn. There the U.S. could depend on Max Bilgray to were also photos of two of the cable the return Pentagon's greatest stars: Admiral funds for passage.9 "Bull" Halsey and General Dwight Eisenhower. Ike cashed his paycheck at Bilgray's when he was a philanthropic contributions, he was break, while other cantinas were junior officer stationed at a nearby considered a living legend by his bent on detaching the GI from his base. Later he visited the Tropic as many friends. He could frequently modest paycheck as quickly as a full general on an official tour of be found sitting at his corner table, possible. Servicemen, in turn, made the Isthmus. always attired in white clothes and a point of telling their comrades Most first-time customers to white shoes, entertaining Latin throughout the world to patronize Bilgray's, the ocean-weary seamen, American heads of state, past, Bilgray's when in Panama. And yachtsmen, or passengers from present or exiled (Argentina's Juan many a Canal worker stranded in ocean liners in port, crowded in to Peron cooled his heels at the nearby the U.S. could depend on Max have a tall, cool drink at a fair price. Washington Hotel during the 50's) Bilgray to cable funds for the return Local customers, who ranged from or Panama Canal Company passage to the Isthmus. Latin American politicians and U.S. employees whom he termed One of his favorite charities was servicemen and businessmen to collectively "canal diggers." Often the Nursing Sisters of Mercy, a to the beachcombers, were drawn this klatch would attract so many semi-cloistered order in Colon. Tropic to pass the time of day with friends that a second or third table When one of the sisters would come its proprietor, saloonkeeper extra- had to be brought to his corner. to the Tropic seeking a charitable ordinarie Max Bilgray. Max Bilgray's name became donation, tenderhearted but tough- Bilgray was an expatriate in synonymous with the port of Colon. talking Bilgray would cajole his Panama by way of Chicago and Renowned as a good Samaritan, he cronies to ante up, with a stream of California. He was a remarkable welcomed all to the Tropic Bar. profanity that would leave the sister human being. Beloved by the people During the war years his tenet was blushing. of Colon for his generous to give the serviceman an even His friends like to recall Bilgray's

pungent aphorisms. Once, when he spied a bejeweled patron trying

vainly to (it an ashtray from his bar into her purse, he quipped, 6 Songbird and Alfonso had to wrap the "Alfonso, get the lady a proper bag for her ashtray." When an old friend horse's hooves with burlap. 9 neglected his bar bill for several months he received a lyrical note from Btlgray, "Hi Mo, how about some dough." A Latin American enterprise chief of state, experiencing potentate in the back. Driving the or hair cut at the outdoor administrative difficulties, asked one wall of the rig through the deep puddles was set up against Bilgray for his opinion. The retort famous, bushy-browed corfiic building. Occasionally, a free-for-all was brief and to the point: squinting Groucho Marx. would break out among the hard Bilgray said, "Kid, you're one eye, During the years of World War II drinking servicemen. After the trying to play in the major leagues Colon had the dubious distinction of military police had returned the with sandlot ball players." being one of the most boisterous, revelers to their ships, Bilgray, the During the construction of freewheeling, wide-open seaports in surveying the damage and gesturing Canal, Colon was a Panama the world. Ships of war, troop and toward the cash register, would say, town. North frontier style boom To supply ships had to wait at anchor "I don't mind as long as that Americans, Panama was the (or their turn to traverse the 'typewriter' keeps clicking." The poised to explode into hearty "Songbird" Palmer, who said, "Let's sale of alcoholic beverages in the hemisphere equivalent of western elevated belt of water called the "big Tropic "typewriter" made a wealthy laughter at the least provocation, have a couple of drinks." Songbird Canal Zone, which had allowed only East of Suez to the British—a place ditch." The Tropic, which was open man out of Max Bilgray. Alfonso was checking his receipts had brought his horse into the bar. 3.2 percent beer. This change made where one could disregard the twenty-four hours a day, enjoyed a Longtime Tropic bartender when he heard some customers Startled, Alfonso threw up his fraternal and military clubs in the regulations and restrictions of heyday of activity. Soldiers and Alfonso once recalled a night when come clopping in from Bottle Alley hands, spooking the horse, whose Canal Zone popular with the U.S. conventional society. One incognito sailors emptied glass after glass in the bar was dead as a tomb. A jovial behind him. He turned and was legs flew out from under him on the community, and Bilgray's business visitor to Bilgray's during the 30's the saloon or had their shoes shined black man whose face seemed greeted by Canal employee slick tile floor. Songbird and Alfonso declined accordingly. who let her hair down was well- had to wrap the horse's hooves with When Max Bilgray suffered a known evangelist and temperance burlap so that the animal could stroke he decided it was time to leader Aimee Semple McPherson. regain his footing. close out his ownership of the Bilgray's impish imagination was up Following the war years Colon's renowned old Tropic Bar and to the occasion. To mark the event growth was tied to standard Canal Restaurant. He sold out to Archie he concocted a special drink in her commerce. Shipping agents kept Leon, a restaurant concessionaire, honor and dubbed it the "Hallelujah funds in the Tropic's safe so ships and cancelled over $40,000 in Cocktail." could be serviced twenty-four hours yellowed IOU's left by customers a day. Atlantic-side residents during his more than thirty years of Babylonian grape brandy continued to consider Bilgray's the business. Ice from the crest of Mount Sinai community center, even holding Cherished as one of Colon's Lemon from the desert of sin wedding receptions in the saloon. most illustrious citizens, Gomorrha and Sodom vermouth leading and Since the Tropic was located many honors were conferred upon Rum aged in Noah's ark between the U.S. residential the barkeeper from Chicago. Add Cain's syrup from the Garden midway district of New Cristobal and the President Ricardo (Dickie) Arias of Eden commissary, which stood across awarded Max Bilgray Panama's You then giue it the Hebrew shake, from the present Colon train highest decoration for civic and station, it was a favorite place for contribution, the Order of Vasco say "Hallelujah" after drinking Canal employees to stop off after a Nunez de Balboa— doubtless a shopping trip. unique honor for a saloonkeeper. Aimee's husband at the time, In Colon, the Free Zone was The Tropic continued to operate David Hutton, sued Max Bilgray for created and expanded rapidly. under several different managers slightly less than a million dollars. Saloonkeeper Max Bilgray, who was until 1974, and a parched seaman The suit was subsequently dropped recognized as an astute business- could still slack his thirst or order after generating sufficient publicity. man, was appointed chairman of the an incomparable shrimp curry and Those were the days when a Board of Directors of the Free rice while listening to a selection on horse drawn buggy on the streets of Zone, where he served until he was the recently installed juke box. But Colon was more common than an incapacitated by failing health. when Max Bilgray left the Tropic, automobile. Carriages, driven by In 1955 the govenments of the the spirit went out of the place. blacks of West Indian origin known United States and Panama signed Many Atlantic side residents of as "cocheros," would regularly the Remon-Eisenhower treaty. One Panama, however, still remember discharge their fares at the Tropic. proviso of the treaty turned over Colon's famous saloon and grow One evening as enormous sheets of New Cristobal, including the huge nostalgic at the mention of Bilgray's tropical rain were slanting down, a commissary, to the Republic of name. One Colon old-timer said, buggy pulled up to the saloon with Panama. The document also "Sure, I remember Bilgray's. It was the laughing "cochero" sitting like a eliminated the restrictions on the the very best."

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The Alaska Pipeline stretches from Prudhoe Bay to Valdez where supertankers take on oil for shipment to the terminal at Panama. Below, at left: Tanks at Terminal At Charco Petroterminal de Panama process ballast Azul on Panama's water. Below: The Pacific Coast Provides "Overseas Chicago" takes on oil at Charco Azul A New Link in the Oil Line

By Willie K. Friar

FTER COMPLETING ITS 9,800- built. The new terminal, Petroterminal A' mile journey from the Arctic de Panama, which cost $60 million, is a snows of Prudhoe Bay, Alaska oil cooperative venture of Northville In- comes ashore briefly among the dustries Corp., and Corp. Financiera tropical palms of Panama before Nacional, the economic development resuming its voyage through the agency of Panama. Completed in 15 Panama Canal to the East Coast and months by a construction workforce

Gulf ports of the United States. of 1,000 Panamanians, it opened April

The oil, transported in super 1 1, 1979. Prior to that time, the oil was tankers down the west coast of the handled by two British supertankers United States from the pipeline anchored in Parita Bay to serve as terminal at Valdez, is pumped ashore offshore terminals. at Charco Azul near Puerto Armuelles Petroterminal de Panama, S.A. is where a new terminal facility has been located about 20 hours by ship from

Supertankers from Alaska and smaller vessels able to transit the Panama Canal anchor in the tranquil waters of Charco Azul to discharge or take on

oil at the transshipment facility operated by Petrotermmal de Panamd. while a tug with special equipment cleans up a small oil spill.

the Canal. Storage facilities consist of three tanks of 833,000 barrels capacity each for handling oil and three smaller tanks with a capacity of 120,000 barrels each for receiving and treating ballast water. The ballast water is processed through a series of sepa rators which remove the oil and then discharge the water into the sea after careful monitoring to make sure it meets the pollution control regula tions of the petroleum industry. In the past, ballast water had to be returned to Valdez for processing. There are berthing facilities de- signed to handle very large crude carriers and smaller vessels. Pier No. 1 can service supertankers of 270,000 DWT tons, Pier No. 2, vessels of 120,000 DWT tons, and Pier No. 3 ships of 60,000 DWT tons. Floating equipment used in the operation includes three very power- ful tugs, three launches and an oil skimmer. slightest spillage. contribution to the economy The terminal has its own water The tugs have U.S. flag ships. About 30 ships are generation special for handling spills Panama than the off-shore operatic treatment and electrical equipment 'aged in transit cycles of laden and dire plants and an access road suitable for and as a backup, assistance is since it provides more than 40 ast voyages between Charco Azul latter 300 indirect or ancilla use by buses and taxis. The available from United Brands which jobs and about the East and Gulf coasts ports of to facilities in the workforce, all a makes it possible for the crews has area and has ones. Of the United States, Puerto Rico and the nearby except for three Ami come ashore and travel to equipment that can be used for Panamanian lin Islands. Supertankers too large for recreation or shopping while spraying chemicals. ican engineers and three British pilo towns ransit the Canal bring the oil down the ships are discharging or taking on Jose Arosemena II, General Man Since opening last year, the t< n Valdez to Charco Azul. There it ager of Petroterminal 5 cargo. de Panama, minal has handled more than umped into the storage tanks of attention is given to the S.A., considers the opera- vessels. Careful on-shore oterminal de Panama for transfer prevention of oil spills and quick clean- tion a safer way to handle the oil and The transportation of oil throu mailer tankers able to fit into the immediately with the points out that it also makes greater the involves two fief up is begun a Panama Canal ^y 1,000 feet Panama Canal locks.

19f 30 October 1, Panama Canal Review 31 PRUDHOE BAY OIL FIELD / / / VALDEZ

PANAMA CANAL I

The "Overseas New York," which set a new Canal cargo record April 28, 1978, when she transited with 64,603 long tons of Alaska oil, moves through Miraflores Locks on a northbound vovage.

Because of the draft restrictions of the Canal, tankers larger than 50,000 deadweight tons normally cannot transit the waterway when fully loaded and most vessels over 90,000 dead- weight tons cannot transit even when only partially loaded. North Slope oil is the largest single commodity moving through the Canal. From August 31, 1977, when the Washington Trader transported the

first North Slope oil through the Canal, to May of this year, 2,023 Alaska oil tankers have transited carrying 46.1 million long tons of oil and paying $63.8 million in tolls. The average toll paid by these tankers for the first eight months of FY 80 was $42,267 laden and $33,592 in ballast.

AVERAGE DAILY SHIPMENTS OF NORTH SLOPE CRUDE OIL THROUGH THE PANAMA CANAL FY-1980

thousands of barrels

ii — ^PR

The Panama Canal Review

6 One feels that here exists an easy companionship between human and machine. 9

The LCRF—where Canal 'mules9 get TLC

Transiting vessels depend on Commission toaiing locomotives to guide them safely through the locks chambers. The towing locomotives, in turn, depend on the Locomotive Component Repair Facility to keep them running at peak efficiency.

Top left, a windlass unit shaft is lifted to the shop mezzanine under the watchful eves of foreman Joe Carlisle, right, and David Castillo; top right. Castillo has a "close encounter" with a windlass unit component; above, the crane boa! "At/as" transfers a locomotive from one side o/ the locks (o the other and right, working locomotiues finish the task of guiding the "Dock Express" through Pedro Miguel Locks By Janet Len-Rios some of which weigh over eight tons. "plug-in" units, that is, they are- self- There are also seven two-ton cranes contained so that an entire unit can be WIDE FRONT DOOR with projecting THE arms that are used to removed and brought in for repair. rolls flatcar up and a trundles in transfer lighter loads from place to This feature of the locomotives greatly carrying huge, a gray hunk of place within the shop. Railroad tracks facilitates their repair since the work machine. As workmen cluster about, lead into the building to facilitate can be more efficiently sent to one an crane enormous whispers across transportation by rail of the locomo- specialized central shop rather than the room on ceiling-high rails to pause tive component parts. sending the workers and the neces- above the flatcar. A large, shiny metal Anyone anticipating a hot, noisy, sary equipment to each of the locks. hook slides down to deliver a harness dirty, offensive place will be agreeably Should anything go wrong with that will be fastened to the machine for surprised to find that it is none of either a traction unit (the part that lifting. When all is ready the workmen these. In addition to being air- allows the locomotive to maneuver stand clear. At the press of a button conditioned, the building has special along the rails or track) or a windlass the crane lifts, giving a slight shudder acoustical insulation to mute sounds unit (the part that controls the cables as it connects with its load and flexes so that under normal conditions there to the ships), of any of the sixty-five its mechanical muscles. White-gloved is no need for the workers to wear locomotives presently deployed at the hands and strong arms turn and hearing protection. And, although three Panama Canal locks, the unit is steady the machine as it is hoisted to there are oil spots staining the floor, removed and brought by truck or rail its assigned location and lowered into the facility is very clean considering its to the Pedro Miguel repair facility. position. The crane, once delivered of function. When a unit arrives at the shop, it is its load, murmurs back across the drained of oil, steam-cleaned, and ceiling, the flatcar rattles out, and the inspected to find the cause of its door slides shut. malfunction. The activity just described takes % Delays caused place regularly in the Locomotive The massiveness of the machinery Component Repair Facility (LCRF) at by malfunctioning is impressive. A windlass unit weighs Pedro Miguel. The LCRF overhauls, over eight tons and a traction unit over locomotives reconditions and/or modifies various six tons. When it comes into the component parts facility, of the electric can seriously the unit is lifted by crane onto a locomotives or "mules" that run along stand where it remains during the the rails on both sides of the locks affect ship overhaul while the smaller parts are chambers to control the ships as they removed and taken to other locations traffic. 9 pass through, and is one of the many in the shop for individual disassembly,

indispensable ingredients that go into cleaning and repair. When the in- the operation of the Panama Canal. dividual parts have been repaired or Delays caused by malfunctioning lo- replaced, the unit is reassembled, comotives can seriously affect ship The locks locomotives were made shafts are realigned, and the unit is traffic, so the work performed by the in Japan with the manufacture and painted. The process is not complete, LCRF is a vital part of the whole assembly of the component parts however, until the unit has been maintenance program that is so taking place in various Japanese bolted down to the test stand and essential to the efficient functioning of cities. Robert D. Donaldson, now tested to assure that it will, indeed, the waterway. assistant chief of the Panama Canal function properly in the field. Six craftsmen, one leader and one Commission's Engineering Division, For testing the windlasses, the foreman are currently employed in the and his family spent a total of five years cables that would be attached to the facility. The crew also regularly living in Japan while he was the ships as they pass through the locks includes several apprentices. resident inspector overseeing the are anchored in place to a large The idea for the repair facility took manufacture and assembly of the "double bitt" where the unit can be root in the early 1960's coincidental locomotives. Fifty-seven of the new subjected mechanically to the same with awarding of the contract for locomotives were acquired by the stresses endured under actual work- construction of the new locomotives. Panama Canal Company between ing conditions. While the shop has no The building itself encloses a 6,000 1959 and 1965 and eight more have facility to subject the traction unit to square foot space which includes a been received since that time. These loading, the unit is connected to a work area, office, storeroom, sanitary locomotives replaced the original ones motor and run to insure that it is facilities and a mezzanine for storage. that had been in service since the operating properly. When a unit has An outside covered area provides opening of the Canal in 1914. The new passed final testing it becomes a spare additional storage and a disassembly locomotives, which are both faster and will be placed back into service area as well as a location for steam- and more powerful than those they when it is needed as a replacement cleaning parts. replaced, have been a major factor in unit in another locomotive. Records The building contains a 10-ton making it possible to transit a greater are kept on each job to provide bridge crane, which runs on tracks the number of ships, as well as larger information that may help in future length of the building and bridges it ships, through the Canal. improvements, repairs or modifica- from side to side. This crane is used The locomotives are designed so tions. for lifting the heavy components, that the large component parts are The facility is equipped to repair or

36 October 1, 1980 Left, Wilford Smith discusses a modification to the traction units with Japanese engineer Katsuro Fukumoto of Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, builders of the locomotives. Below, Elmer Anderson operates the controls of

the bridge crane to lift and move an overhauled traction unit.

The Panama Canal Review 37 rehabilitate about three traction units and one and a half windlass units per month. Some of the units have been in the field for many years without major repair, a fact that attests to the reliability of their complicated design.

At the present time the facility is just keeping up with work on a demand basis. However, plans are under way to place the locomotives on a regular overhaul program which will mean that at the scheduled time the traction unit and the windlass units will be removed from the locomotive for reconditioning at the repair facility. At the same time the frame, together with the electrical and pneumatic systems

it contains, will be overhauled in the field. In effect, each locomotive will be

completely rebuilt from the rails up. It

is expected that through this program twelve locomotives will be rebuilt each year. The traction units are currently

being modified to what is called "dry sump" operation. In the original design, the machine's oil was stored in a reservoir below the gears with the lubricant pumped up and fed down over them. In the modified design,

while the oil is still fed down over the

gears for lubrication, it is immediately pumped back up and stored above the gears. The new system eliminates most of the current leakage and will cut down considerably on the $50,000 in man hours and materials consumed per year to clean up the oil from the locks walls, in addition to the cost of the oil itself. The first dry sump was installed in November 1978. The average cost of overhauling a traction unit is $30,000 and $40,000 for a windlass unit, including parts and meetings are held regularly. The sized bolts and washers, warm

labor. That may seem like a lot of movement of heavy equipment is colored brass cylinders, gleaming money, but the figure is under- routine in the shop, and everyone bearings in shiny races, and with fresh standable when you consider that the watches out not only for himself, but new gaskets hanging on the wall. The last locomotives purchased cost also for his co-workers. It's "heads up" cranes are painted bright sunshine $588,000 each and a single replace- as a huge crane glides overhead yellow, and interesting-looking tools ment gear can cost up to $2,500. carrying a part that may weigh from a are seen everywhere. One feels that Both new and reconditioned re- couple of hundred to several thousand here exists an easy companionship placement parts are used at the pounds. A notice reads, "work safely, between human and machine. There facility. While a complete supply of you are a valuable person." With such is an aura of awareness among the

spare parts is maintained by the a positive attitude toward safety, it is craftsmen about the value and impor- Division of Storehouses at Balboa, a no wonder that the shop has never tance of what they do and their pride large number are stocked at the had a disabling injury or that there has in their work is obvious. A quotation facility in what is known as the "back not been a lost-time injury among the that Carlisle has placed above the

room." On rare occasions it may be craftsmen now employed. office door in both Spanish and necessary to have a part made locally. For anyone who appreciates ma- English typifies the attitude of the

Safety is a prime concern at the chines, the shop is a fascinating place facility's employees, it reads, "the repair facility, a place where, ac- to visit with its clean, well-run priceless ingredient of every product

cording to foreman Joe Carlisle, atmosphere and its storeroom stocked is the honor and integrity of him who

"everything is dangerous," and safety with shelves and bins full of various makes it."

38 October 1, 1980 Working in what is no longer exclusively a man's sphere, machinist apprentice Myrna del

Cid, at left, checks the hydraulic system of a windlass unit; above, Helio Alves and Jose Gonzalez take a look at drawings depicting a windlass unit's inner workings; while, above right, machinist apprentices Ethelbert Mapp, Alvin Lim and Marcos Gutierrez listen attentively as Enrique Cumberbatch explains the unit's operation. At right, a traction

unit is checked by machinist apprentice Jorge Moreno and machinist leader Jerzy Bressel

during final testing before it is put back into service.

The Panama Canal Review 39

Commission police officers and members of the Panama National Guard share responsibility for protecting the lives of atizens in Canal townsites. The movie marquee at the Balboa Theater, the signs above the entrances to the piers and the logo on the sides of railroad cars appear in Spanish, an indication of new management. Panama Canal official vehicles sport the name of the Canal entity, the Panama Canal Commission, on their doors. Scene The last Canal Zone stamps are pulverized. These and other scenes below Changing reflect some major changes that have taken place The over the past year following the disestablishment of the Canal Zone and are evidence of the new relationship between Panama and the United States.

Ted Anas is not a child, but he enjoys sharing his love and knowledge of tropical plants with his two sons Trey, age 6 and Donovan, age 4. Ted is a competent guide because his work leads him to spend more time in the jungle and on the rivers than behind a desk. As a hydrological tech nician for the Meteorological and Hydrographic Branch of the En- gineering Division, Ted is out in the field a great deal of the time, working on such projects as watershed con- servation, river gauging and rainfall measurement. After a lifetime in Panama, Ted can tell you the names of tropical plants, which ones are edible and how to prepare them.

A nice thing about knowledge is that it can be shared, and Trey and Donovan learn a lot on outings with their father. Of course, the learning is just a happy consequence of having a good time together. Picking canned fruits and nuts off shelves in a grocery store may be

convenient, but it is not nearly as interesting or as much fun as going to the source and taking the prize with your own two hands. Growing up in BE A CHILD IS TO SEE Panama, Trey and Donovan TOthe world through eager eyes have learned that almonds and pineapples and with a mind innocent enough to do not have tin can shells; and believe what it sees but inquiring cannonballs are not always enough to ask why. Nature teases made of iron, but can also grow on trees. Like the child's curiosity with a world of most Isthmian children they delightful colors and shapes. In the know that a cashew nut is attached to the tropical climes, there is no end to end of a reddish, pear-shaped fruit the array of remarkable plants and and is safe to eat only after being trees which invite closer observation roasted. And they have observed that bananas and admiration. An outing to look at start as tiered rows of tiny these wonders of nature can appro- flowers inside a pinkish bud that the priately be called child's play. and plant dies after it has fruited. While people living in colder climates might find Father mangos, papaya and breadfruit and sons strange and exotic, to Trey and Donovan they are as familiar a sight explore the taste V and a as apples or peaches. gentle jungle of the

Canal area (Far left) A bunch of bananas can be a whole bunch of fun- (Top row, from left) The breadfruit is easy to spot once you know what to look for. X3rowing up in Some tropical curiosities such as the land crab require a firsthand look. A closer examination of the blossoms of the cannonball tree can be a prickly Panama problem (Second row, from left) Donovan and Trey ponder the novelty of almonds fresh off the tree. By Jan Meriwether To pluck an avocado from a sea of green is well worth the climb. A sprawling cashew tree provides a comfortable perch as well as delicious cashew nuts (Bottom left) A calabash in the hand is worth two on M the tree unless you have a taller brother to help out Homeward bound

Perhaps the best part of the day is the end, when Ted and the boys return home to show off their delicious finds and to enjoy the fruits of their labors with Ginny, the woman in their lives.

Below left: Ted frequently works against a backdrop of lush tropical vegetation. Below right: Ginny Arias

bestows a . imi/e of approval for the fresh papaya which the boys offer as proof of an afternoon well spent.

October 1, 1980 Commission Divers Canal's underwater work force v

While the repair of damaged Kenneth H. Willis, supervisor of Far left, a dtuer tender waits and commercial vessels is normally done salvage and diving. watches topside while a diver performs by commercial enterprises, Com- an underwater inspection on Candidates for the school the "Lloyd divers, are mission may, under special Liverpool"- above left, a diver gets an selected from among craftsmen em- circumstances, be asked to assist as he suits up for a dive: assist. ployed by bottom, the Industrial and Locks the red They are also involved in the task of and white flag signifying divisions and are drawn from such "use extreme controlling erosion under the locks caution, divers in the skills as machinist, welder, electrician water" flies from the diving barge and in keeping the waterway clear of as and pipefitter. The Locks Division and divers prepare to descend sunken debris. the Industrial Division like to maintain The job performed most often by a minimum force of about ten active the divers is the routine support given divers each. Willis and Elbert T. to other divisions in maintaining the Chappel, assistant supervisor of sal- Canal's floating equipment. Addi- vage and diving, are the only two tionally, the divers clean a lot of "sea assigned full time to the diving unit. strainers," the screens over the water The other divers.who must apply and tenders are cooling systems of ships' engines. The recruited from the ranks be accepted for training at the school, of the craftsman helpers. job the divers like least, and which work at their regular jobs until they are The diving course consists of six, fortunately occurs infrequently, is the needed for a diving assignment. Diving 40-hour weeks search for bodies after an accident. and begins with a is an "additional pay assignment," that rigorous physical examination which The Industrial Division operates a is, during the time that a person is includes an oxygen diving school to supply personnel tolerance test. for assigned to diving duty he receives a During this test students are seated the division's various underwater in higher rate of pay. the recompression chamber and are projects. Though the diving course is Students at the diving school "taken down" to a depth of sixty feet not regularly scheduled, the school is learn basic salvage theory, diving where they breathe 100 percent pure called into session on the average of physics, underwater physiology, first aid oxygen for thirty minutes. "Taking once a year as it becomes necessary and cardiopulmonary resuscitation down" means that the air pressure to replenish the diving staff due to (CPR). They also within the chamber is altered to attrition, promotion and retirement. learn how to prevent, recognize and treat air simulate the pressure encountered The school is under the direction of or gas embolism and decompression sick- when diving to a particular depth. ness. Above all, they learn to respect Ninety-nine percent of the candidates

their limitations as land-dwelling, air- pass the test, but the one percent who breathing mammals. cannot would encounter serious trouble as divers and are not per- The diving facility is housed in a mitted to enter the program. wooden structure most of which is a While it sometimes happens that an big open storage area for equipment applicant is an ex-Navy diver, for and supplies. Large tables hold example, and after the physical seemingly miles of hoses laid out in examination needs only to take a neat array, while on shelves in a small qualifying dive to become a member of room toward the back of the building the team, most candidates are novices stand a variety of masks and helmets and start the training from the very in orderly file. The room is heated to beginning. Divers, are trained to use keep it dry and to prevent the growth all types of diving equipment from of mold and mildew. All equipment is deep sea to light gear. Most Com- kept in top condition at all times so mission diving is done with air supplied that when heading out on a job divers by surface air compressors located on need only grab what they need and go barges. to work, having no worry as to Actual diving begins in a special 10- whether or not equipment will func- foot deep, 10-foot in diamater tank tion properly. which is equipped to allow com- The school's office and classroom munication between student and are located to one side of the building, instructor and also observation through where nameplates salvaged from glass portholes. It is in this tank that sunken ships decorate the outside the divers, already skilled craftsmen, walls. learn to use the tools of their trade The Industrial Division currently underwater. After becoming pro- has seventeen active divers, including ficient in the tank, student divers are the two diver supervisors; ten are graduated to practice in Gatun Lake, Panamanian, seven are U.S. citizens. where training takes place at depths There are also sixteen diver tenders, between 10 and 65 feet. Actual diving those who help dress the divers, run depths range from very shallow to

the compressors and generally handle about 160 feet, while the average is the above-water equipment. Diver around 40 feet.

October 1, 198 E Panama Canal Review 47 At left, divers examine the barnacle-

encrusted "Tairona" after it is raised from the sea; left below, the Diving and Salvage Depot on the shores of Gatun Lake; below, the recompression chamber.

One of the reasons why this particular site on Gatun Lake was selected for the diving school is the availability of a sunken ship, the "M. V. Brion, " for making practice dives. The ship sank in January of 1934 about thirty feet off shore. Due to the slope of the bank, the ship, which is lying on its port side, has its bow in 12 feet of water and its stern in 65 feet. This gives students the opportunity to test their skills in an authentic situation and to become aware of the problems they will face.

It would be difficult to overestimate the importance of the practical training the divers receive. Since diving is, in and of itself, a dangerous operation, adding a variety of hand and power tools can only increase the danger. Although most ofthetoolsare pneumatic, both electric arc and flame welding equipment are used under- water by the divers. Besides using tools with which they are already familiar, students must also learn to use the various types' of

48 October 1, 1980 OCEANGOING COMMERCIAL TRANSITS BY NATIONALITY

6 Months FY 1980

Nationality Belgian British Chilean Colombian Cypriot Chinese, Nationalist Danish Ecuadorian French Greek German, West Honduran Italian Japanese Liberian Netherlands Norwegian Panamanian Peruvian Philippine Singaporean South Korean Spanish Swedish United States USSR Yugoslavian All other Total

OCEANGOING COMMERCIAL TRANSITS OVER PRINCIPAL TRADE ROUTES

6 6 Months Months FY FY Trade route 1980 1979 East Coast United States— Asia 1,515 1,531 East Coast United States— West Coast South America 745 765 Europe— West Coast South America 655 573 East Coast United States— West Coast Central America 636 608 Europe— West Coast United States/Canada 464 452 West Indies— West Coast South America 232 160 East Coast United States. Canada— Oceania 192 185 United States Intercoastal (including Alaska and Hawaii) 191 192 South America Intercoastal 160 179 East Coast Canada— Asia 160 166 Europe Oceania 103 112 All other 1,516 1,564 Total 6,569 6,487

OCEANGOING COMMERCIAL TRAFFIC BY MONTHS

To//s (In thousands of dollars) 1 PANAMA CANAL TRAFFIC 6 Months PRINCIPAL COMMODITIES SHIPPED 1980 1979 THROUGH THE CANAL TRANSITS (Oceangoing) Commercial 6,569 6,487 (in long tons) U.S. Government 40 47 Free 4 7 Atlantic to Pacific Total 6,613 6,541 6 Months 6 Months Commodity FY 1980 1979 TOLLS , FY Commercial $140,269,644 $105,617,016 Com 6,003,810 7,126,998 US Government . . . 619.490 452,425 Petroleum and products 5,924,963 5,643,842 Total $140,889,134 $106,069,441 Coal and coke 5,786,899 5,624,675 CARGO, (Ocean- Soybeans 3,683,640 3,363,955 going) Phosphates 3,052,916 2,795,941 Commercial 78,722, 167 79.605.442 Sorghum 1,641,871 1,446,366 Chemicals and petroleum chemicals 1,284,548 1,119,858 US Government . . . 189.486 92.992 scrap Free Metal, 1,057,776 1,937,733 Wheat 962,815 2,851,969 Total 78,911,653 79.698.434 Manufactures of iron and steel 863,326 816,912 1 Includes tolls on all vessels, oceangoing and small Fertilizers, unclassified 717,055 567,414 1 Cargo figures are in long tons. Ores, various 559,729 696,038 Statistics compiled by Executive Planning Staff Caustic soda 540,502 403,210 Sugar 507,426 735,883 Paper and products 346,457 281,420 All other 6,232,769 5,752,866 Total 39,166,502 41,165,080 facilities can be reached. Since drydocking is very expensive, the ability to perform maintenance work underwater with as little interruption Pacific to Atlantic in service as possible results in considerable savings. This is true not 6 Months 6 Months only for transiting vessels, but also for Commodity FY 1980 FY 1979 Commission floating equipment such Petroleum and products 16,028,921 16,370,359 Ores, various 3,098,519 2,364,664 as barges, tugs, cranes, launches and Manufactures of iron and steel 2,967,477 2,761,109 dredges on which routine underwater Lumber and products 2,440,626 2,707,316 inspection and maintenance are reg- Coal and coke 1,065,064 1,562,542 Food in refrigeration (excluding bananas) 970,094 933,267 ularly scheduled. Sugar 944,819 933,722 Most diving is done with very little Sulfur 866,269 633,396 Pulpwood 808,940 868,870 visibility, usually a foot or two, and Metals, various 787, 145 692,966 often it must be done by feel alone Wheat 746,200 396,348 when there is no visibility whatsoever. Autos, trucks and accessories 658,882 549,006 Bananas 599,164 755,764 About 25 percent of diving work is Molasses 484,072 379,850 done at night, sometimes due to its Salt 392,486 456,742 emergency nature and sometimes All other 6,696,987 6,074,441 because of scheduling convenience. Total 39,555,665 38,440,362 Willis enjoys the fact that a

Commission diver's work is con- stantly changing, that even jobs appearing to be routine never really CANAL TRANSITS-COMMERCIAL AND U.S. GOVERNMENT are because they are seldom done twice under the same conditions. 6 Months FY 1980 A very special feature of being part 6 Atlantic Pacific Months of the diving crew is the close to to FY camaraderie, the esprit de corps, that Commercial: Pacific Atlantic Total 1979 Oceangoing 3,463 3,106 6,569 6,487 develops among members of the Small 1 291 122 413 485 group. Theirs is a special, shared Total 3,754 3,228 6,982 6,972 elation when a difficult task is Government: successfully accomplished, for they U.S. Oceangoing 21 19 40 47 are perhaps the only ones who fully Small 1 126 44 170 148 comprehend the difficulties involved Total 147 63 210 195 Total 3,901 3,291 7,192 7,167 in the job, its dangers, the cooperative Grand effort needed for its completion, and 1 Vessels under 300 net tons. Panama Canal measurement, or under 500 displacement tons Statistics compiled by the sensation of having to depend on Office of Executive Planning and to trust, in a very personal and immediate way, the skill and concern of others, for your very life.

50 October 1, 1980 "• 1

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