WASHINGTON COUNTY NEWS, ST. GEQEGE, UTAH JUNE 23, 1927 All Aboard For Zion canyons were wholly different. I eyes.' I can't do even as the College By Henry Irving Dodge confess I didn't see how that could girl would do for I can't tell you how in The Elks Magazine be. But I soon found that they were I reacted to the scene. I don't think different in every respect, but the Once upon a time the good Lord I reacted at all. I was wonder- coloring—and. perhaps, they were said: "Men have been doing foolish stricken, that's all—plumb wonder- different even in the coloring. things—trying to interpret me. I'll stricken. I utterly failed at. first to What can one do when he has but give them a hint. I'll make some­ take in the beauty of it. But my •a week in which to view the major thing graceful, dignified for them to spiritual eyes gradually opened as canyons? The digestive organs of follow. For I love the beautiful." we progressed into Zion Canyon. his imagination are clogged. He is For the approach into this wonder­ Then the good Lord—obviously fortunate if he can, in the retrospect, the use of the pronoun here is in- land is gradual. keep them even hazily distinct and We left Cedar City, southwestern pertinent—made Zion Canyon. separate. There are smaller, or bet­ "Sublime," observed the good Utah, a night's train ride from Salt ter, less magnificent canyons—sub­ Lake City, about nine o'clock in the Lord, "but not enough." Again the ordinate canyons to be visited which good Lord picked up His chisel, morning. Traveling by a great- one never heard of. Any of smooth-riding automoble bus over a gouged out the earth and fashioned these "little fellows," if it were the the Grand Canyon. I fine road and through moderately only, one of its kind extant would be I picturesque scenery, and all keyed- Again the good Lord contemplated worth going around the world to His. handiwork: "Too magnificent, -up for the first sight of the canyon, see. we made the sixty-two-mile trip to too thunderous, too gloomy, too som­ Verily, on reaching Bryce Canyon, ber, too terrifying. I'll give them Zion National Park in a little more after standing subdued in .wonder on than three hours. something in lighter vein, fanciful— the North Rim of the Grand, one Nature is the greatest of all dram­ for I love the fanciful." wouldn't have given it a second atists. She never perpetrates an So the good Lord swung His chisel glance if its distinctly different beau­ anti-climax unless man meddles with into the earth again and gouged out ty did not enchant one. I can't ex­ her work. The approach to Zion is a great bowl—Bryce Canyon. Giv­ plain. I can only say, "Go see for no exception. The scenery up to a ing free rein to His fancy, the good yourself." certain -point lias been progressively Lord fashioned in this bowl all kinds As for describing the scenery with beautiful. Suddenly we rounded a of figures and on its walls He etched my feeble pen, I can only say that no curve and entered at the rear of a almost everything that was ever one would have the impudence to at­ vast amphitheatre. Away in front of made as if recording the history of tempt it but a college girl or a pat­ us was the stage. We approached as all creation—from then to now. ent lawyer, whose business it is to if we would enter upon it. Here is But more of this later. describe everything, but whose stuff the setting. Mark well the meta- - One said to me, "Go to Zion Can­ no one ever reads. yon for the spiritual influence of it. phors. "The Watchman"—a moun­ The experience of Kipling is con­ If you are threatened with the effect tain on the east—guards well .the soling. The noted Englishman was — without — cause superstition — approach. Having passed this guar­ standing on the bank of the Colum­ , atheism—go there. Go there, and dian in safety, we laid our pro-pition- bia River—notebook and pencil in while you're there for the Good al offerings upon the "Altar of Sacri­ hand. Lord's sake, keep still. Don't try to fice," a slender, flat-topped pinnacle "What yer doin'?" said a native, describe it. Just contemplate. of ivory, stained red, it seemed, with approaching. Humbly, joyously contemplate." the blood of martyrs. We next pas­ "Trying to write a description of sed "Bridge Mountain"—on the east Said another, "If you want to look it." —and entered into Zion proper. into Heaven, go ipto Zion Canyon and ' "Bub, yer better put up yer pencil However, we found other rites and look upward; if you want to look in- i and paper because it just simply cermonies to perform before entering to Hell, stand on the edge of the can't be done." to Sublime Presence. We passed tlio Grand Canyon and look down." I was told that Kipling said later, "Court of the Three Patriarchs," In a way this is true, for you dwell fl when writing about the Yellowstone, pausing a moment to contemplate in the bottom of Zion and look up "I don't expect anybody to believe their magnificance. Again we did, where the chaste, granite figures this." If I were gifted enough to homage—devout and reverent con- • point into the sky. At the Grand, convey even a suggestion of the won­ templation—at the "Temple of the you stand on the rim and look down ders of the canyons, I'd repeat the Sun," whose Summit catches the first —down into a red inferno. That's J later words of Kipling. glimmer of the rising sun and re­ the way it struck me. From the The college girl, unless the good flects the last glories of the same. bottom of Zion, you look up and Lord should guide her hand, would worship and appeal, but you draw tell you of her reactions to the scene. We proceeded at. leisure through back from the edge of the Grand But you would not get anything of the main court to the base of "El Canyon in terror. what the scene was. The patent Gobernador, the Great White So much lias been written of the lawyer or the civil engineer would Throne," whereon the foot of man vast and awful splendors of the give you the facts and figures, geom­ has never trod. While worshiping Grand Canyon of the Colorado, that etrical descriptions. But, oh, what's here the rustle of the angel's wings the sublime beauty of Zion has been (he use! I doubt even if Poe would on "Angel's Landing" (in front of overlooked. .attempt it. the Throne) and the chimes of the , After visiting Zion, Bryce, Grand, I can only say that the many color­ "Great. Organ" (at its side) may be , Cedar Breaks, my loyalty for my first ed photographs I have seen are not a heard (in fancy) in the sighing of love—Zion—is unshaken. whit exaggerated in color—and of the wind through the trees and the I had heard that the three great course, not. in form. This I know. For this I have seen with my own a

ogist in the services of the Govern­ gurgling and swishing of the river ment, wrote: display of vertical moldings, and the as it wends its way over the stones. "In an hour's time we reached the Remember these great forms are not ridges, eaves and inhered angles are crest of the isthmus and there flash­ fretted with serrated cusps—small mountains as we always think' of ed before us a scene never to be for­ mountains but colossal pinnacles of projecting ornaments common in gotten. In coming time, it will, I Gothic tracery. Exact symmetry Is ivory, it would seem, vari-colored believe, take rank with a very small and with naked sides—some like wanting, but Nature lias brought number of spectacles each of which home to us the truth that symmetry loaves of bread standing on end. will, in its own way, he regarded as Zion Canyon is a group or cluster of ,is only one of the infinite range of the most exquisite of its kind which devices by which beauty can be real­ these—an intimate family group, the world discloses. one might say. A museum of the ized. "Across the Canyon stands the "And finer forms are in the quarry Gods—a garden of heavenly spectres. central object of the picture, the In reverent mood, you may pro­ Than ever Angelo evoked!" West Temple, rising four thousand To my impudent, inerudite soul all ceed to the "Temple of Sinawava" £»»* above the river. Its glorious and worship in your own untrammel- the canyons lacked symmetry in summit was the object we had seen whole and in detail. But what does ed way; then on to the "Mountain of an hour before. Yet it is only the Mystery" and work your own charms man's sense of symmetry amount to central object of a mighty throng of in the Divine Scheme of things? trying to unfold Nature's secrets structures wrought up to the same concerning it. Thus endeth the Another writer—lie must have exalted style. Here are great pedi­ been a painter or a geologist or a metaphor. ments—triangular or circular orna­ The mountain—or, rather, pin- civil engineer—courageously adven­ ments—covered all over with the tures the following: j nacle—top plateaus have never been richest carvings. The effect is much explored. There's no way to climb "A 'Yosemite Valley done in oils' like that- which the architect of the comes close to a description of the those smooth perpendicular sides Milan cathedral appears to have des­ that reach up three thousand feet principal features of Zion National igned, though here it is vividly sug­ Park. This gorgeaous valley has from the floor of the canyon. No gested rather than fully realized. one knows what living things obtain about the same dimensions as the "A row of towers half a mile high famous Yosemite Valley. Extordin- up there. One presumes they are is quarried out of the palisade and only birds and insects whose sanctu­ ary as are the sandstone forms, the stands well advanced from its face. color is what most amazes. The ary has not yet been violated by the There is an eloquence to their forms airplane. deep red of the 'Vermilion Cliff is which stirs the imagination with the prevailing tint. Two-thirds of What makes Zion the Temple is singular power and kindles in the the way up the marvelous walls and ! that in it you're always looking up. mind of the dullest observer a glow­ temples are painted gorgeous redsj With most other canyons you're al­ ing response." above the reds they rise in startling ways looking- down, and one never You will observe that the writers white. The 'Vermillion Cliff rests associates looking down with wor­ do not attempt definitely to describe upon three hundred and fifty feet of ship. Let any man stand there in the shapes of the great towering even a more inslent red relieved by those beautiful silences and declare creations that they see. But one mauve and purple shale. That in there is no God and he's got more and all use oriental architecture for turn rests upon a hundred feet of courage than I have. Or he is a big­ their purpose, I suppose, because other variegated strata. Through ger fool. these are, to the Western mind, biz­ these successive layers of sand and Zion is my first and only love arre. Minarets, domes, temples, shales and limestones, colored like a among the canyons. The others singly and in groups, are the meta­ Roman sash, glowing in the sun like fascinate me hut I don't love them. phors used. Others see in the trac­ a rainbow, the Mukuntuweap River They are marvelous beyond the con­ ery on the walls the handiwork of has cut its amazing valley. The en­ ception of man. But there is a the etcher or the sculptor. But to trance is between two gigantic stone chaste sweetness, a spiritual warmth each and every one the natural tem­ masses of complicated architectural to Zion that the others haven't got. ples suggest incomprehensible, de- proportions which are named the It's a sanctuary of the soul. There's vine art. Dutton goes on: West Temple and the Watchman. a certain intimacy to it. You feel ; "Directly in front of us a complex The latter is seen from a foreground : toward it as you would toward your group of white lowers, springing of river. From a stairway of many mother. That's because you're so from a central pile, mounts upward colors it springs abruptly twenty-five j close to it—not worshiping at a to the clouds. Out of their midst, . hundred feet. Its body is a brilliant ; distance. You feel like petting it, and high over all, rises a domelike red. The West Temple, which rises running your hands over the smooth T mass which dominates the entire directly opposite and a mile and one- sides of its images. Y ou couldn't do landscape. It is almost pure white, half back from the rim, is over a that with the Grand Canyon. witli brilliant streaks of carmine des­ thousand feet higher." I can only, most inadequately, sug­ cending its vertical waals. It is im­ Hal G. Evarts. also using (he arch- gest my reactions as I walked down possible to liken this object to any itectual metaphor, writes in the there through the valley of heavenly familiar shape. Yet its shape is far Saturday Evening Post: specters. Abler men than I have from being indefinite; on the con­ "It seemed that we gazed out made sincere efforts to convey some­ trary, it has definiteness and individ­ I across some vast oriental city that thing of the wonders of Zion. Each uality which exhort an exclamation of .stretched away for a dozen miles. lias used the terms of his trade in surprise when first beheld. The l Scores of gaudy mosques and tinted doing so. But mark how they have, ; towers which surround it area study towers, striped citadels topped off by each and every one, resorted to arch­ of fine form and architectural effect. flat-roof gardens rose in countless itectural metaphors. They are white above and changed to tiers from this congested, painted More than forty years ago, Cap­ rich red below. A curtain wall, metropolis. . . . And the coloring! tain C. E. Dutton, a celebrated geol­ fourteen hundred feet high, descends vertically from the eaves of the tem­ ples and is decorated with a lavish 3

too- far. A pleasant-looking stout Imagine a tremendous city of spires there tire three. This includes man broke the solemn silence of the and turrets ... its building catch­ everything—guide. luncheon and party with "How pretty!" The art­ ing every dazzling reflection of the horses. istic members of the group immed­ sunset. . . . There were soft apri­ We left Zion Canyon in the morn­ iately fell upon him and killed him cot and salmon tints, vague pinks ing about eight o'clock—by auto, the —and very properly—and threw his and creams; lemon blending into only practicable means of transport­ remains into the gorge he had insult­ deepest orange . . . with here and ation — traversed a considerable ed. there a haunting suggestion of pale breadth of desert, crossed the Arizona mauve. Brilliant red spires stood line and reached the North Rim of the The North Rim is eight thousand beside domes of ivory white. In Grand Canyon at nightfall. five hundred feet, or thereabouts, in many of these fairy structures the To look at the Grand Canyon on a elevation. The mad Colorado dash­ stratifications pitched so abruptly as still, moonlight night, as I did, gives es and twists on its way to the sea to lend a spiralling barber-pole ef­ one the creeps, fills one with dream- some six thousand feet below. From fect." ings. On a dark night it is even this point one may look out and down upon the temples Deva. Bra­ Here are some useful facts: more wierd. But, when lighted up at midnight with lighting, while the hma. Zoroaster. Wotan's Throne. An excellent road has been com­ Mann, Buddha. Isis, Angels Gate, and pleted from the Park entrance to the electric storm plays around and throughout the maze of aerial is­ Cheops Pyramid. The creations Temple of Sinawava, some seven and away down below are made after the one-half miles. Twenty-six miles of lands down there in the depths, it is like the sudden opening and closing forms of colossal domes, circuses, trails, so well maintained as to he us­ coliseums. This is proper, for the able at all seasons of the year lead of the one great window of an infer­ no. Surely it is the devil's paradise Grand is vastly bigger than the oth­ to the most important points in the er canyons. Park. One may journey on horse­ at that moment. The lightning re­ back from the floor of the canyon to veals all kinds of weird things. And "To appreciate it," said McKee. the East and West Rims. The West the thunder cracks and roars and | "is not a matter of mere sight. Rim trail begins at the foot of bellows through the Canyon as if the I You've got to absorb it. get it devil himself were indulging in an | through the pores rather than j Angel's Landing, is tunneled along a ; I ledge of the wall for two hundred orgy of frightfulness. I wondered if through the eyes." J feet into a deep flower-filled gorge, Dante had ever stood on Bright Angel And talk about heat! Just stand i then zigzags up nearly to the level of Point at midnight in a thunder­ at the rim on a sunny day and feel j the top of Angel's Landing. The storm. Terrifying by night, yes, but the baking waves come up. I was I other trail leads from the foot of on a beautiful day, the sunlight told there was a difference of twenty- I Cable Mountain up to the East Rim. flooding it, all the terrors, the eon-- degrees between Wiley's Camp at the Zion Lodge, a delightful hostelry, jured, awful things of the night be­ edge and the park ranger's station | consisting of a main central building fore are forgotten. Nothing but two miles back. | and a large number of square, two- wonder! Wonder! It is in the An amazing phenomenon of the i bedroom cottages, nestles under the night that the Canyon lives; in the Canyon is a wonderful echo. You towering East Wall between the daytime it sleeps, basks, smiles at may stand, as we did, at the extreme Mountain of the Sun and the Great you, grins at you, as fancy pleases, point of Cape Royal, some five thou­ White Throne. Here one may be that great red city of the Silences, sand feet above the river, and shout. accommodated for five dollars a day that devil's paradise. Don't fail to Your call repeats itself eight' times —room and board. Or you may get see it, experience it, as I did, in a with perfect clearness, the last repet­ your breakfast for a dollar, your thunder-storm. For that's the time ition being the clearest of them all. luncheon and dinner for a dollar Satan himself is in command, the Think of that, eight times! If any­ twenty-five each and may occupy time when Satan cuts loose. one says I'm a lair, ask him how he one of the excellent bedrooms for a It is said that persons often go in­ knows. He won't be able to tell dollar fifty a night. The meals are to hysterics on being brought sud­ you. But I know it's a fact. I've excellent and so are the sleeping ac- denly to the rim of the Canyon. heard it with my own ears. commodations.' That's the way it strikes one. Some We lingered at Wiley's Camp at An attractive free public camp­ are dumbfounded; others, who have the edge of that red inferno, that ground Bias been established about no sense of the sublime, are inclined devil's paradise, that mausoleum of half a mile from Zion Lodge in the to make light of the scene. Here's baked colossi, for a day. Then we I shadow of The Great White Throne a classic intance: A commercial started for Bryce Canyon, retraced for motorists having their own camp­ Englishman said, after gazing down­ our course across a portion of the ing equipment. Shade trees and ward for a few moments: "It's a desert, again entering Utah and pure water are available. So, one good place (o throw your razor blad­ reached our destination in the even­ may sleep in his own bed, get his es." ing. meals at the Lodge or do anything A young woman who had taken a Bryce is a vast, irregular-shaped else he darn pleases. course in nursing in a metropolitan bowl, perhaps two miles across and Also, one may hire horses and hospital and was obsessed with her a thousand feet deep. Its rim is guides with which to nose about the profession, and, above all things, eight thousand feet in elevation. Park or mount its almost precipitous practical, observed, after listening to I shall quote briefly from one sides. The rates for these are very the rhapsodies of the artists of the ambitious writer's attempt at a des­ seasonable—something like a dollar party, and pointing to a figure scrol­ cription of Bryce: an uour for a horse. If you like to led by nature on one of the walls op­ "In the maze of architecture up­ make the journey to the Rim, which posite: "It looks for all the world rising from Bryce's sunken gardens, may take you a day and for which you like a diptheria germ. That was where pine, spruce and manzanit:, will require a guide, it will cost you all she saw. A case in point illust­ spread their greens, there are the ten dollars for the round trip. If rates the danger of tempting Fate styles of China and Egypt, of the there are two of you, it will be seven Toltecs, Incas. Greeks and Goths: fifty each, or five dollars apiece if H- tion, even by A few feet, preceo.i- beautiful either of face or ;.'-,,.' inii sirongei. irei'haps, i.s the r<-.sem- ami they or* ••waring those rr.ir'.yV along the rim of the Bowl. fQO ., blance to those decaying Dvavidian change kaleldoscopically, v „ torian monstrosities called, "ben;,...', 0 counterpoising the slight forward jl temples bursting with decoration, in seen those illuminated advert'"' clination of the body known ;.<; n the jungles of Burnt ah and Java: signs in shop windows which ••!,'""' pagodas, mosques-, minarets, kiosks. you one face as you approach -.' • 'lie fairy castles, cathedrals, theaters. another as you get opposite. -- "Grecian Bend"—a kind of turki. flying buttresses and stairways, sus­ welf. You observe the figure v-.,' slant. pension bridges, niched and fenestra­ you will call St. Paul. Move .-. h", Again is manifested irrever«.n, ted walls, peri-styles, colonnades, ten. twenty, fifty feet and St. a.', democracy. For right beyond V;r lotus columns, leaning towers, slim has become Ritchelieu or nerh-- toria one sees—in bas-relief again.. spires, massive pylons, pyramids, Richard the Third. You see the ml! the wall—a line of convicts follov,-jn|; obelisks, pilasters capped by tilted lines of a lady-in-waiting; hut -• one another step-by-step and cb,?„ disks, cones supporting cones, org­ back view of her is an orang-out -•• up and disappearing through a my-;, ans, shrines and altars. All the perched on the spire of a cathedra' teric-us door. One would fear tha. architects of antiquity might have Nature is- playing pranks, emphasis-.. I walked aloug the Rim for ah,, • drawn their inspiration from the sil­ ing her contempt for the social ord(. a mile. Tilings that I had seer. r ent cities of Bryce. of things which man has ordained that my stimulated fancy had ,.,., . "And these dream-tissue cities in But if you move a few paces the l> had now become something .-.!.. ne the realm of muted mystery have of convicts may become a procession Perhaps the advancing daylight, >,, • weird inhabitants statued in vari- of saints—quien sabe? cast shadows; perhaps the gods wei-> gated stone; giants and gnomes, j All this yon see in Bryce, for it | laughing at me for a presumptuous a popes and queens, kneeling peni- j the portrait gallery of the gods and ass of a man. But it seemed :o ;• .. tents, companies of marching sold- ! of the fools, kings, knaves, saints as if the very tracery on the wr,!--- iers, gargoyles, fauns, satyrs, and had men. was elusive. nymphs, witches, horses, dogs, liz­ "You pays your money and you Bryce Canyon is democratic in ;• ards, frogs and turtles—figures that takes your choice," says Mother N'a- favors. It lends itself no more ;.-, seem to move, sway and posture in ture. "If you don't like queens, we fancy or artists or poets than it doe; the flashing play of light and shad­ can give you soldiers, knights, beef­ to the imagination of the child, ;:..• ow. The least vivid imagination eaters, Tommy Atkins or doughboys old woman or the Piute Indian, it needs a check-rein." —regiments of them. If you don't is a veritable playground of the fan­ Very good. I am not capable of like cardinals, we can give you flat- cies. The child will cry, "Look. Dad. anything like that. I can only tell hatted dominies, or bearded pirates. there's a wolf chasing a deer over you how it appeared and appealed to It's all the same to us—crowns or there." And the father will see it me. My first view of Bryce was by cathedrals." at once—see the eye and the ear. moonlight. Everything was hazy, You get to have an affection for the imminent fangs, the antlers. tb» ghost-like, entrancing and silent as these creations on short notice, a tail, legs and all. And the Piute. the fancies of a maiden. The sun­ proprietary interest in them if you seated further on, fashions from the rise over Bryce is indescribable. I have discovered them and pointed same group a hunting scene to his can only think of it as one vast mass them out. to your friends—by the liking. of aesthetic splendor—that is, splen­ power of your imagination have con­ dor shot through with the Divine I have a marble clock at hoine jured them from their granite ob­ Spirit—super earthly. with pillars. I saw its colossal scurity. If you knew them longer I am going to forestall criticism by counterpart right in the middle you would be intimate with them as declaring that I did not measure the the canyon. Beyond it was a grave­ you are with your old friend the "Bowl" with the instruments of an yard of serried, heroic mounds— man-in-the-moon or certain stars. engineer. Nor did I analyze or Valhalla of the giants. Over these From the photographs one would classify after the fashion of the geol­ mounds galloped a knight, complete­ think there was nothing there hut ogist. But this I do know; how I ly horsed, caparisoned, speared and serried ranks of cardinals and vir­ re-acted to it. otherwise equipped for the fray. gins. It impresses you that way at I am a total abstainer—so far as On the walls of the canyon, the first. But Nature is just as fond of rum is concerned. But I am free to gods have etched innumerable figur­ pirates as she is of prophets. confess that I, too, like the ambitious es of history—but all jumbled up- A friend grabbed me by the arm writer of the foregoing description, There are, however, clearly defined and pointed, "saw things." I, too, saw gnomes groups such as that of Queea victor­ "See that group of roistering, ,n? and popes and queens, witches, frogs ia and her ladies-in-waitiag. T-' bearded sailors just beyond Queen stands at the point of a prou" I Queen." and turtles. The only difference is 1 that to my vision these creatures did ontory as if reviewing whole iegi" " "By heck, I do,'" said I. not "sway and posture." of valorous Englishmen—Britisher* "A minute ago I saw them from I mean. Her figure is short »n<. , over there. Then they were a hand I am convinced, after seeing Bryce dumpy—pardon the hated word. bu Canyon, that the good Lord has a I of apostles." no other will do as well. She wear? Nor do I think the colors, marvel- sense of humor, above all, a divine the inevitable widow's cap and v'' attribute, else why did He make His i ous as they are, and not one whit ex- There are the over full eyes, the little • aggerated in the books, are as mar­ servant Nature so marvelous a cari­ beak of a nose, the incotnparai-''' caturist, so adroit an,, etcher? velous as the conformations that dignity that no one but Victoria •'•' lend themselves to the dullest as «'p" As you stand facing the canyon : could have given to such a ".ice • as to the most, active fancies of man. from any one point you will see many ; figure. Back of the Queen, In u- How is this for a general mix-up- figures, startlingly resembling hu­ terely respectful attitudes, is ca man, brute, artistic creations. The here is a group which might he group of ladies. They are much '•'• led "The Court of the Angels;" ->vnile possibilities of such fancies are with­ ler than Her Majesty, nor are '•'••' out limit. As you change your posi­ (•" (Continued on Page Four) s- another, near by, made up entirely of ijjje a politician going on a spree. Writes one authority: j rare ancf radiant maidens is "The Tl)is is no exaggeration. "Within its limitless' labyrinth Heavenly Choir." There is the her­ Nor does Nature concern herself countless ^million of grotesque and oic figure of Richelieu at the end of with living things alone. She gives magnificent architectural forms, this kneeling group and, along in vou in this museum of Bryce, cathed­ anointed with all the colors of the line and as fantastically inappropri­ rals, pipe-organs, tracery and lacery spectrum, flash into the eyes of the ate, a she-bear of heroic proportions that would do credit to an etcher. beholder," with her cub, which is about the size She deals in sculptured groups of Again mark the architectural of an elephant; next in this mixed loving-cups, chalices, stalactites of metaphor. The writer goes on: panorama is the headless body of infinite delicacy, inverted now and "The erosional structures are Mary Queen of Scots in high collar, standing on bases of red; dragons, blends of Egyptian and massive, puffed sleeves and in the act of hand­ castles, all in minature. One is a medieval Gothic walls. ... In ling her crown, or head, I couldn't group like a board of ivory chessmen. board aspect the color scheme is tell which, to some knightly gentle­ One may see all kinds of bottles, flat pink, red, orange, yellow, lavender. . man. Along the line are nuns and and round, and wonderful clocks, . . An artist has counted more pontiffs—nuns in attitude of prayer and great lamps decorated in the than sixty tints at Cedar Breaks. . . —pontiffs with heads erect and most delicate, lacy way. . Along the rims are several easily- hands outstretched in benediction. Imagine, if you will, a toy shop—• reached view-points, among them There are chaste Madonnas and Cos­ shelves and sides covered with little Point Supreme and Point Perfec­ sacks and Indian princesses, carved metal toys that you get for a penny tion." huge in ivory. I think apostles and each; soldiers—serrated regiments Here mark the similarity to virgins predominate, cardinals run­ of them; lions and their cubs, setting Bryce: nings them a close second. Bearded hens in their nests; fat-faced Ger­ "Conspicuious in the welter of Father Abrahams in flowing robes man officers in helmets; that's the I forms below are innumerable red, are much in evidence. At first it way it is. Surely, Nature doesn't . castellated bastions in paralled rows; seems all Abrahams and virgins and care how she arranges her curios. long, riding dragon-like forms of pipe organs. Then, as you move on, Like Zion, one may get adequate, ' pure white; and huge, sprawling observing, your Lincolns, your Vic­ yes excellent, accommodations at dinosaurs covered with blood. torians, and your Roosevelts emerge Bryce and at quite as reasonable j "In vastuess, in variety of color, in , from the perplexity of facts before figures. wild grandeur, Cedar Breaks is the you. From Bryce Canyon to Cedar greatest of Utah's painted amphi­ All of the male figures, princes, Breaks is a run of something move theatres." philosophers, priests or baboons in than three hours. That may all be. But after the this museum have perfectly formed Cedar Breaks is wonderful, magni­ round of the major canyons I can features, even to eye-sockets. Tn?j ficent; it lias almost every tiling that only declare that Zion is my first and are so real that you feel you could "o your fancy can conjure, but I think only love. up and shake their huge,stone hands it should be visited first of all the ; or pull their tails. You could wall; canyons. As many have observed, if on one of those noses or even on one it were the only one it would be of the eyebrows just as a fly would worth traveling around the world to walk on yours. But you mustn't do contemplate. But after enjoying the it if you waut to see anything. For sublime beauty of Zion, shuddering if an-insect walks on the end of your at the awfulness of the Grand Can­ nose, lie sees nothing but a porous yon and feasting eye and fancy on bulk, not wholly engaging. No, per­ bryce. there's little else to be said. spective is necessary to beauty—in One is pretty well fed up on canyons. all cases. Not that I have the impudence to 8Peak in any sense deprecatingly of I have only scratched the surface l, of suggestion-^suggestion of the ie unspeakable beauty of Cedar grotesque as well as the beautiful. creaks. Imagine, if you can, this V;ist amphitheatre, its forested rim | On the. right from where I stand is a e monkey's face—a bit of a nose, and < n thousand three hundred feet in endless upper lip, and facing it the s'evation. The Breaks is eroded Uvo thousand feet down in.to the perfect profile of Levi P. Morton, D| one of our former Vice-Presidents. nk cliff formation at the summit of Just beyond is Richard Croker, ^arkagunt Plateau. It covers an rea of sixty square miles in the Sev- bushy eyebrows, beard, firm paw and er all. Here is a headless camel obso- National Forest. To the north lutely perfect, and beyond, a whale "e blunted, volcanic crest of Bryan standing on its tail—its own. not the. lead rises nine hundred feet righer, camel's—as if to lift its nose above fording a panorama of practically of southern Utah, Nevada and the rim of the canyon and see what r is going on outside. And there is a '•° thern Arizona. « cat and kitten and a monstrous ba­ boon. You see Nature has other loves than cardinals. Next to Rich- . ard Couer de Lion is a huge owl. c How .wise he looks, the old stone; j bird with bulging eyes. And he is | I wearing a plug hat tilted to one side, j