The Definitive Guidebook to Zion Climbing Zion Climbing: Free and Clean

Climbing Zion Free and Clean is the most comprehensive climber’s guide to , arguably one of the most beautiful national parks in the United States. Inside you will find up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from 10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available to all that Zion has to offer. l 250 of the most classic free climbs, from Ashtar Command to Shune’s Buttress. Bryan Bird l 100 never-before published free climbs. l 25 of the best clean big walls, including Moonlight Buttress and Space Shot. l Most accurate and complete beta ever for Zion. l First ascent history—much of it previously unpublished. l Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations.

ISBN 978-0976523550 90000 >

7809769 523550 Contents

Introduction 9 The Beehives 48 Zion Climbing Gear 10 -Mary Lou Crag Leave No Trace 11 -Hello Mary Lou Getting to Zion Distances 12 When to Climb 13 Map- to the Grotto Staying in Zion 13 52 Overview Map 15 History 16 Isaac 53 Geology 22 Historical Essay- Tricks of the Trade Ratings 26 -Freeloader Key to Maps 27 -Tricks of the Trade Map- Lower 28 -Iron Like A Lion In Zion Kinesava 29 Moroni 59 -Tatoween -Road To Comorah -Jolly Green Jam Crack -Voice From the Dust -Lhasa -Plan B -Plumb Line -Molecules of Emotion -Cowboy Ridge -Crack In The Cosmic Egg -The Groper West Temple 36 -Southwest Ridge 68 -The Big Lebowski -Chimney Sweep -Gettin’ Western The Spearhead 70 Three Marys 44 -Iron Messiah -Left Mary- Gentleman’s Agreement -Up -Middle Mary- C.T. Chimney, More Cathedral Mountain 72 Than A Woman -Coke Explosion -Right Mary- Immaculate Conception, -Voodoo Rooves Theatre Goddess

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Map- , Cerberus Cerberus Gendarme 120 Gendarme, Touchstone Wall, and -West Face Routes- George The Animal Weeping Rock 75 Steel, Cynthia’s Handjob, Mean High Tide -South Face Cragging routes- Cave Crack, Angels Landing 76 Fails of Power, Cherry Crack etc. -Northeast Buttress -Touchstone Wall 79 Weeping Rock Area 128 -Cheyenne Social Club -The Great Beyond -The Oxbow Incident -Weeping Rock Chimneys -The Organasm -Organ Grinder The Great White Throne 130 -Essay- First Ascent of The Great White Angels Landing 82 Throne Historical Essay- Angel Hair -Northwest Face -The Lowe Route -Southwest Face -Angel Hair -Prodigal Sun Map- The Great White Throne and Red -Ball and Chain Arch Mountain 138 The Minotaur Tower 90 Red Arch Mountain 140 -The Megamahedral -Rites of Passage -Shune’s Buttress Moonlight Buttress Area 92 -Wigs In Space Historical Essay- Moonlight Buttress -Bits and Pieces -Sheer Lunacy -Lunar Ecstasy Carbuncle Buttress 144 -Moonlight Buttress -Made to Be Broken -Swoop Gimp Or Be Dust -Riddler’s Delight -Risk Management Map- Moonlight, Temple of Sinawava, 148 and Leaning Wall 100 -Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur -Practice Cliffs Temple of Sinawava 101 -Freak Show 151 -Toilet Cracks -South Face -The Silverback Map -Monkeyfinger - East Temple, Mt. Spry, and The 153 -The Monkey’s Always Send Dude Tunnel Wall Areas Mt. Spry 154 The Leaning Wall 108 -Sandblaster Historical Essay- Space Shot -Central Pillar -Equinox -Holy Roller -Cosmic Trauma -Dances With Zully -Space Shot -Swamp Donkey Desert Shield Area 116 -S. Ridge -Desert Shield -Disco Inferno

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East Temple 158 -Cradle to Grave -Lovelace -Strikes and Gutters -The Fang Spire -Hue and Cry -Wisdom Tooth -Negative Ghostrider -Cowboy Bob Goes To Zion Mt. Allgood 212 -Uncertain Fates -Final Seconds -Schnaggle Tooth -The Greer -Birthday Bash -Freezer Burn 214 -10th Division -Mojo Risin -Old Man of The Mountain -Mojina -Force Boyle Tunnel Wall Areas 158 -Tree House of Horror -Cragmont -The Headache Area 218 -Ataxia Tower Area -Tooele Tower -Kung Fu Theatre East Zion Sub Peak of 189 -Aries Butte -North Ridge -Checkerboard Mesa -The Confluence Area Bouldering 222 -West Face Routes- Golden Gate, Take Back The Rainbow, Smash Mouth Appendix Bridge Mountain 197 Index 226 -Sand Teton Climbs by Difficulty 229 G1 198 -Unholy Matrimony -The Reach Around -Slow and Delirious Gatekeeper Wall 202 -Locksmith Dihedral -Gatekeeper Crack 204 -Chastity Crack -Mythical Kings and Iguanas -North Ridge -The Vigil -Uklaw and Actack -Pie For Dinner -Central Pillar, Watchman Direct -The Hernia -S and M -Ivory Coast -The Silmaril

4 ZION CLIMBING: SUPERTOPOS Contents INTRODUCTION

Book Credits About the Author

Written by Bryan Bird. Bryan Edward Bird was born in Inglewood Aid climbing topos by Chris McNamara. California in 1977 and lived in southeast Photos by Eric Draper and Bryan Bird Los Angeles until his world was turned (unless otherwise noted). upside down at the early age of 13 when his Edited by Steve McNamara and Chris father moved the family to Beaver, . McNamara Bryan realized all too quickly that Beaver Layout by Chris McNamara was not the place for him and found his Overview maps and topos by Joseph way to at the age of 19 not Puryear and Chris McNamara long after a summer of learning how to top Cover Photo: Matt Wilder on Moonlight rope in the Tetons. Zion Canyon taught him Buttress. Photo by Eric Draper everything he knows about Back Cover Photo: Joe French on Disco and has become his home. He was fortunate Inferno. Photo by Eric Draper enough to move to Zion at a time when the Cover Design by David Safanda Design canyon was ripe for climbing and making Solutions. www.safanda.com friends. These motivated individuals helped Watercolors by Renan Ozturk: Zion shape his future and help him become the Ultrabright. Mixed Media on WaterColor active member of the climbing community Paper Mosiac 8ft X 3ft that he continues to be to this day. Bryan is now 31 years old, lives in Virgin, Utah with his wife and dog, and is still in love with this little corner of the desert.

5 FOR CURRENT R OUTE I NFORMATION, VISIT WWW.SUPERTOPO.COM INTRODUCTION

Warning.

Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport in which severe injuries or death may occur. Relying on the information in this book may increase the danger.

When climbing you can only rely on your skill, training, experience, and conditioning. If you have any doubts as to your ability to safely climb any route in this guide, do not try it.

This book is neither a professional climbing instructor nor a substitute for one. It is not an instructional book. Do not use it as one. It contains information that is nothing more than a compilation of opinions about climbing in Zion. These opinions are neither facts nor promises. Treat the information as opinions and nothing more. Do not substitute these opinions for your own common sense and experience.

Assumption of Risk There may be errors in this book resulting from the mistake of the authors and/or the people with whom they consulted. The information was gathered from a variety of sources, which may not have been independently verified. Those who provided the information may have made mistakes in their descriptions. The authors may have made mistakes in their conveyance of the information in this book. The authors cannot, therefore, guarantee the correctness of any of the information contained in this book. The topographical maps, photo-diagrams, difficulty ratings, protection ratings, approach and/or descent information, suggestions about equipment, and other matters may be incorrect or misleading. Fixed protection may be absent, unreliable, or misplaced. You must keep in mind that the information in this book may be erroneous, so use your own judgement when choosing, approaching, climbing, or descending from a route described in this book.

DO NOT USE THIS BOOK UNLESS YOU [AND YOUR ESTATE] PROMISE NEVER TO TRY TO SUE US IF YOU GET HURT OR KILLED.

Disclaimer of Warranties

THE AUTHORS AND PUBLISHER WARN THAT THIS BOOK CONTAINS ONLY THE AUTHORS OPINIONS ON THE SUBJECTS DISCUSSED. THEY MAKE NO OTHER WARRANTIES, EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED, OF MERCHANTABILITY, FITNESS FOR PURPOSE, OR OTHERWISE, AND IN ANY EVENT, THEIR LIABILITY FOR BREACH OF ANY WARRANTY OR CONTRACT WITH RESPECT TO THE CONTENT OF THIS BOOK IS LIMITED TO THE PURCHASE PRICE OF THE BOOK. THEY FURTHER LIMIT TO SUCH PURCHASE PRICE THEIR LIABILITY ON ACCOUNT OF ANY KIND OF NEGLIGENT BEHAVIOR WHATSOEVER ON THEIR PART WITH RESPECT TO THE CONTENTS OF THIS BOOK.

6 ZION CLIMBING: SUPERTOPOS INTRODUCTION

Acknowledgements

This project has been years in the making individuals (in no particular order) deserve and obviously I couldn’t have done it alone. our gratitude and recognition for their Thank you to everyone who has helped me efforts in helping to make it so much fun to along the way, especially my wife Charlie. climb in Zion National Park: Fred Beckey, Her support and technical advice has been Galen Rowell, Pat Callis, George Lowe, invaluable throughout the project. My most Jeff Lowe, Cactus Bryan, Mike Weis, Ron sincere gratitude goes to John “Floyd” Dixon Olevsky, Dave Jones, Glen Rink, Mark Pey, for having the patience to teach me how to Mike Strassman, Bill March, Bill Forest, properly scare the hell out of myself and Brian Smoot, Scott Fischer, Jim Dunn, for planting a seed in me that continues to Jim Beyer, John Tainio, Barry Ward, Alan grow to this day. Special thanks to my main Humphreys, John Middendorf, Brad Quinn, climbing partners, Joe French, Eric Draper, Bill Hatcher, Kyle Copeland, Daren Cope, and Brody Greer. Our adventures together Mugs Stump, John Allen, Lynn Wheeler, are priceless to me and have had a huge Billy Westbay, Conrad Anker, Cameron impact on my life. Jeremy Werlin provided Tague, Jeff Hollenbaugh, Craig Luebben, encouragement and technical counseling Doug Hall, Calvin Hebert, Doug Byerly, early on in the project. Brian Smoot, Dave Randy Aton, Brad Barlage, Drew Bedford, Jones, Doug Heinrich, Jersey Dave, Joe Seth Shaw, Doug Heinrich, Stacey Alison, French, Dow Williams, Brian McCray, David Mark Austin, Joe French, Eric Draper, Nate Bloom, and Mike Anderson (among others) Brown, Brody Greer, Dave Littman, Jared freely provided topos and information. Greer, Mark Folkerson, John Varco, Klaus Without them this book wouldn’t have Schock, Dean Woods, Travis Tomlinson, been nearly as cool. Mike Tea and Renan Scott Morley, Andy Carson, Rob Sears, Rob Ozturk provided the cool artwork. Thanks Sears Jr., Karl Dunn, Dave Smith, Mike to Brian Cabe for the grammar lesson. John Anderson, Mark Anderson, Rob Pizem, Wes Middendorf and Mike Anderson graciously Krause, Randy Cerf, Kaleb Padgett, Gaar provided the history of Zion climbing. I Lausman, Zack Lee, John Saylove, John would like to thank Nate Brown for his Sedone, Dan Snyder, Robbie Colbert, Bill encouragement, advice, information, and Ohran, Troy Anderson, Tyler Phillips, Carl contributions. Extra special thanks to Oswald, Dave Anderson, Drew Spalding, Joe French for spending countless hours Ty Hydrusko, Kevin Jaramillo, Ammon “researching” routes, and for his dedication McNeely, Brian McCray, James Martin, to the enjoyment of filling his ears with Paul Turecki, Larry Derby, Cameron Burns, sand. I would like to thank Chris McNamara James Garrett, Geoff Scherer, Ron Ramonde, at SuperTopo for helping to bring this Dan Stih, Les Ellison, Boulos Ayad, Renan project to fruition. It needed that final Ozturk, Cedar Wright… and everyone push. Thanks to anyone I have ever tied else who has contributed to the climbing into a rope with. Thanks to everybody who community. participated in the editing and feedback -Bryan Bird process. Thanks to everyone who put up a route in Zion. We are all fortunate to be able to rap from your bolts. I would like to thank Ron Olevsky for having a vision for creating clean climbs. Huge thank you to every person who has helped to develop the climbing in Zion. All of the early Zion pioneers had the vision and skill to create incredible adventures for the rest of us to go out and test ourselves on. The following

7 FOR CURRENT R OUTE I NFORMATION, VISIT WWW.SUPERTOPO.COM INTRODUCTION

Authors Note

Before I even get started I want to talk The following information is an attempt at about the difference between this guide doing just that. and other SuperTopo books. Thanks Collecting information pertaining in large part to the World Wide Web, to climbing in Zion started out as just a many of you have become accustomed to hobby that has led to an obsession. With extra-super-duper accurate and detailed so much rock to look at, I wanted to know information found in many modern day just what had been climbed. So I set out guidebooks. This book is going to leave to compile as much info as possible. Over some folks scratching their heads and the years my three-ring binder of topos, maybe even a little bit upset by the vague descriptions, maps, and stories has swollen and non-detailed nature of some of the beyond capacity. This book is my attempt at information. Many of the routes in Zion putting these pieces of information together National Park have only been climbed in an organized and comprehensible once or twice. That fact means that there manner. I have done my best to compile isn’t a consensus opinion on how hard or the information accurately, but with a good something might be. In places like project this size, there is much room for Yosemite the climbs have been done so error. I have also tried to climb as many many times that you have an overwhelming of the routes contained here as possible, amount of input or feedback on what a but I have not done them all. Many of the climb may be like. Here in Zion it’s just not route descriptions are second-hand at best. the case. My favorite part of the activity A good approach to the climbing in Zion of rock climbing is ADVENTURE, (i.e. would be an attitude that adventure is the not knowing the outcome of the day) and main goal, not so much about the numbers. because of that I have tried to leave it up Climbers who adventure around Zion to you, the guidebook user, to do some of should expect to encounter poor and soft the figuring out on your own. Many of the rock, inadequate anchors, vegetation, and folks who have drilled the bolts, cleaned of course sand. A pair of binoculars and the cracks, built the trails, and drawn the some good judgment can go a long way. My maps are, or have been, prolific in the friends and I have done much adventuring canyon. That means they enjoy the choss, here and are accustomed to the nature of weirdness, wideness, etc. and also that they the area. Our views on what’s good, bad, are good at dealing with it. This is not your hard, or easy may or may not reflect your average . Zion is a very alpine views. So… basically I’m trying to tell you climbing arena. Besides that, climbing isn’t to take this information with a grain of supposed to be easy. If it were, every jock sand, be careful, and most importantly, have and his girlfriend would crowd every one fun! of our cliffs across the country. Thank god that isn’t the case. Please use your own judgment. It has been my intention to leave my opinions out of the equation. I have spent most of my climbing career in and around Zion National Park. Over the years friends and acquaintances asked me to put my collection of information together into book form so that other people could enjoy what’s available in Zion.

8 ZION CLIMBING: SUPERTOPOS INTRODUCTION

Introduction than Yosemite . However, while By Bryan Bird and Chris McNamara Yosemite has just a dozen vertical big walls with a lot of low angle terrain and forest in between, almost the ENTIRE Zion Canyon is bordered by big walls ranging between 800 to 2500 feet in height. There are hundreds and hundreds of tall rock climbs and nearly endless cragging possibilities. OOften called the sandstone Yosemite, Zion SuperTopo.com - stop on by! National Park encompasses some of the There are three reasons to visit www. world’s largest and steepest sandstone supertopo.com before you trip: walls. In the main canyon. The 1) All the info in this introduction will be has carved through 2,000 feet of Navajo more up-to-date and have links directly to sandstone laid down as dunes about 170 what you are interested in. million years ago. The is arguably the 2) You can get route beta on all the climbs in country’s most beautiful big wall and this book in the Route Beta section. long destination. There are 3) You can post questions to the Climbers hundreds of aid and free climbs in the 800- Forum and ask for advice for your trip. 1500-foot tall range and more than a few taller than 2000 feet. Some climbs are “sport Zion Climbing Skills wall climbs.” meaning there is almost no This ain’t Yosemite! Zion climbing is intense approach and you can bail at any point on and adventurous. Prepare to get a little chain anchors. Other climbs involve intense scared. A lot of experienced granite climbers bushwhacking through cactus-covered are terrified when they first climb here. It’s slopes followed by massive commitment hard to know exactly how strong the rock on a week-long climb followed by a nasty is so even bomber-looking placements are descent. And, of course, there are a lot of sometimes suspect. It’s not that the rock is climbs between these two extremes. terrible (it’s usually just a little lower quality What stands out about Zion is just how than Indian Creek) it just takes a little many dead-vertical 1000 plus foot walls Bridge Mountain at sunset. Photo by Bryan Bird there are. Zion Canyon is a little smaller INTRODUCTION getting used to. You place more gear than you can climb after a day or two. Wait at you would in solid Yosemite granite and least a week in winter and early you must develop a sense when the rock is and when there is high humidity, cold strong and when it’s crap. temperature and already moist conditions. Watch for loose blocks in cracks and Zion Climbing Gear on ledges. Face holds may be rounded or sandy and take some getting used to. Solid Sandstone cracks are mostly parallel-sided, crack climbing skills are necessary. The which means they accept cams and often cracks are generally vertical, have poor reject nuts and hexes. That said, a lot of rests, and few face holds. The leader needs Zion aid routes follow lines of piton scars so extra endurance to hang out in strenuous having 2 to 3 sets of small offset nuts is key. positions in order to place gear at least On some routes like Desert Shield, it’s nice every six feet. Most climbers use athletic to have 4 to 5 sets! Protection pulls, even tape to protect their hands from abrasion. from textbook placements. Be conservative, and borrow or buy a lot of gear. Two 50m Climbing After Rain or Snow or two 60m ropes are standard for rappels. When sandstone is wet, it loses much Always back up every anchor, including of its strength. If this were just a safety bolted anchors. While most of the classic issue, you could climb after a storm and Zion climbs have good bolts, there is no maybe you would blow a piece or two. You such thing as an absolutely bomber bolt or probably wouldn’t die. Wet rock, however, cam in sandstone. Be cautious. Leave your is an environmental and aesthetic issue. cam hooks at home, they are destructive to Climbing (especially aid and face climbing) Zion rock. A standard Zion free climbing on wet rock eats the cracks up and key free rack consists of a minimum of two sets climbing holds blow off. You could destroy of cams ranging from 0.4-4” with one set the route. There are several face climbing of 4.5-6”, one set of nuts (again offsets are routes such as the aptly named Made To Be preferable) and long runners. Climbers who Broken that could be completely erased by are unfamiliar with sandstone climbing a careless individual unwilling to wait long will undoubtedly want more cams on their enough to allow the rock to dry out. So how rack specific to a particular route (i.e. more long should you wait after a storm? When finger to hand-sized pieces). Cordelettes the days after a rain consist of 100-degree are handy for building anchors as well as heat, and the rock started out hot and dry, backing up fixed anchors for descents.

10 ZION CLIMBING: SUPERTOPOS INTRODUCTION

Leave No Trace Bolts and Fixed Gear Sandstone climbing and the desert There are far more established lines in Zion environment in general is fragile. Here are than most people realize. It’s extremely some guidelines for climbing on sandstone: important for you to make sure that a route has not been done before you decide • When hiking, stay on approach trails and to drill any bolts. Adding of new bolts to off the crunchy, black cryptobiotic soil. If existing routes is unacceptable and should there is no clear approach trail, stay in the be avoided at all costs. If additional, or bottom of river drainages when possible. replacement anchors are necessary, the best • Keep your rack from scraping the rock. choice, by far is the Rawl 5-piece bolt. The • While rappelling or , prevent deeper the anchor, the better. A minimum your ropes from carving grooves in the diameter of 3/8” and a minimum depth of rock. Rappel slings wear out quickly in this 3” is the standard. Power drills are illegal. environment; be prepared to replace them Camouflaging anchors is of the utmost with rock-colored webbing. importance. This pertains to all components • Pitons destroy sandstone. Most popular of an anchor i.e. using neutral colored aid climbs are done clean. webbing, and painting bolts and chains to • Use clean gear whenever possible (except match the rock. Back up fixed gear at all cam hooks, which damage the rock). Check times. The density and quality of the stone to see if your intended route has been in Zion varies considerably with aspect and climbed clean. elevation. Climbers should be cautious and • Avoid hauling if possible. Some popular allow themselves time to develop the skills routes are getting scarred with white streaks necessary to determine the quality of the where haul bags have scraped off the brown rock. Visit www.safeclimbing.org to learn surface coloring of the sandstone. more about anchor safety and replacement. • Free climb as much as possible. Every time gear is weighted it erodes the sandstone a little more. It seems negligible now, but over decades, weighting gear as little as possible extends the life of Zion’s routes.

“Zion Ultrabright” Mixed media on water color by Renan Ozturk.

11 FOR CURRENT R OUTE I NFORMATION, VISIT WWW.SUPERTOPO.COM INTRODUCTION

Getting to Zion Court of the Patriarchs shuttle stop: 3.1 mi Zion is in southwestern Utah, along SR-9, Practice Cliffs pullout: 3.4 mi about 25 miles east of I-15. Once inside the Moroni/Employee Canyon pullout: 3.8 mi Park, if visiting April-October, the shuttle Emerald Pools Trail Head: 4.1 mi bus can get you to 90 per cent of the climbs. Zion Lodge shuttle stop: 4.3 mi Air Travel The Grotto shuttle stop: 4.8 mi St. George has a small airport, about 50 Great White Throne pullout #1: 5.3 mi minutes west of Zion, with pricey scheduled Great White Throne pullout #2: 5.5 mi flights to Salt Lake City and Burbank. Great White Throne pullout #3/Angels The closest larger airport is the McCarran Landing east face: 5.6 mi International in Las Vegas, about a 2.5 hour Weeping Rock shuttle stop: 6.1 mi drive. Salt Lake City Airport is a 4.5 drive Touchstone/Organasm pullout: 6.3 mi to Zion. St. George Shuttle (800 933-8320) Big Bend shuttle stop: 6.6 mi takes you from the airport to St. George. Cynthia’s Hand Job/Moonlight Butt.: 6.7 mi Without a car, you would need to hitchhike Desert Shield/ Moonlight Butt: 7.1 mi from St. George to Zion. Leaning Wall (Space Shot) pullout: 7.2 mi Temple of Sinewava shuttle stop: 7.8 mi Car Travel and The Shuttle Bus Pine Creek Bridge (The Fang Wall): 1.9 mi You can reach most Zion climbs by riding Pine Creek Swimming Hole pullout the free shuttle bus that runs April through (Cowboy Bob): 3.0 mi October. During this time, driving up-river Great Arch pullout (Cragmont): 4.0 mi of Canyon Junction is prohibited unless Tunnel pullout (Headache, Ataxia, you acquire a permit for a one-day ascent Kung fu, etc): 4.7 mi of a big wall. Permits are available at the backcountry desk in the visitor center. Driving Distances to Zion: There is also a free shuttle that runs up and Bishop, CA: 7.5 hours down State Route 9 through the town of Denver, CO: 9 hours Springdale. Busses run as often as every six Lake Tahoe: 11 hours minutes during peak visitation times. The Las Vegas, NV: 2.5 hours town shuttle buses begin running before Los Angeles, CA: 6.5 hours dawn and continue well after dark. Space Salt Lake City, UT: 4.5 hours is limited in the parking lot at the visitor San Francisco, CA: 11 hours center. Zion National Park encourages Yosemite: 10.5 hours visitors to park in the town of Springdale at Climbers and The the numerous and well marked areas along / State Route 9 and ride the free town shuttle Anything that we can do as individuals and to the river entrance located adjacent to as a “user group” to insure our permission Sol Foods Market. During the off season, to climb in Zion and other national parks driving your car up the main canyon is is crucial and is the responsibility of allowed and its possible to park below or everyone. Keep climbing areas clean: pick near your climb in the numerous paved pull up after yourself and others. Trash at the outs along the road. base of cliffs is one of the things that park officials notice the most. Try to keep the Mileage from the South Entrance booth: use of chalk to a minimum, especially on the roadside crags and boulders. So far the Drilled Pocket Boulder: 0.4 mi relationship between the NPS and the Zion Oak Creek turnoff (road to maintenance climbing community is a fairly good one. yard): 0.5 mi There are few rules established to govern the Canyon Junction: 1.5 mi climbers. Climbers thus far have basically Mt. Spry N.W. Face pullout: 2.2 mi been left alone, on the pretense that we have Twin Brothers pullout: 2.5 mi the ability to govern ourselves efficiently. Heavy regulation has been levied on the

12 ZION CLIMBING: SUPERTOPOS INTRODUCTION canyoneering community because of the wind and rain than in the fall. The tourist perceived impact of their sport. As climbers crowds show up in mid-April. we should take this as a warning. With the influx of more people to the sport and Summer the area, this attitude of self-governing will Temperatures hover around 90-100°. Climb undoubtedly change. It’s paramount that we the most north-facing walls possible. Expect all make an attempt to maintain a positive tons of tourists. relationship with the NPS. Cliff Closures and Permits When to Climb Many walls are closed from March- Spring and fall offer the best climbing September for peregrine falcon nesting. conditions. Winters are unpredictable Visit the NPS Zion Climbing site for a and summers are scorching and crowded. list of closed cliffs: www.nps.gov/zion/ Temperatures in the sun and shade differ planyourvisit/climbing.htm Commonly dramatically. With no wind, 65° in the shade closed cliffs are; Mt. Kinesava, Streaked Wall, can mean 100° in the direct sun. Always Isaac, Angels Landing, , The bring plenty of warm clothes and water. Twin Brothers, and East Temple. Some routes are closed for peregrine falcons You need a $10 backcountry permit from from March to September. Consider the the Visitor Center to stay overnight on a big flow of the Virgin River when approaching wall. Only 12 climbers per day are issued on Angels Landing. In spring and early permits for the most popular walls. Visit the summer it can be cold, tricky or even backcountry reservation site to see which impossible to cross. walls have the 12 climber limit and to learn about paying an additional $5 to reserve a Fall permit. (Even with a reservation, you still Climbing temperatures are often ideal from need to pick up your permit at the Visitor mid-September to mid-November with Center and pay $10.) temperatures ranging from high-80s to Staying in ZIon mid-60s. It can be scorching in September or perfect. Springdale is a great place to hang out. Climbers visit the town in the spring and Winter fall. Winters are empty and peaceful. Great Winters can be extremely cold unless you camping abounds and motels lower rates in are climbing in the sun. Before heading to the off-season. Zion, check the weather to make sure that Camping in Zion National Park the high temp is at least 50° for climbing walls and 40° for the crags and boulders. The South Campground is located near the Snowstorms are frequent and may last for South Entrance and Visitor Center. It costs days. Nighttime temperatures dip well below $16 per night and is open from March 13 freezing even in the best winter conditions. to October 31 on a walk-in basis (it fills up The area usually doesn’t get more than a early in the day). few feet of snow each winter. Remember you will have to wait days and maybe even The Watchman Campground is also located a week after a winter storm for the rock to near the Visitor Center. It costs $18 per completely dry out. night and is open year-round. Reservations are accepted for camping from late March Spring through October or by calling (877 444- Daytime temperatures begin to climb into 6777). Campsites are available on a first the 60s and 70s in March. However, expect come/first served basis during the off cold nights and possible snow into early season. April. Mid-April to mid-May offer good climbing temperatures, with more frequent

13 FOR CURRENT R OUTE I NFORMATION, VISIT WWW.SUPERTOPO.COM INTRODUCTION

Motels Climbing Gear There are a lot of nice motels in Springdale. There are two places in Springdale: The better priced ones: • Zion Rock and Mountain Guides - 1458 • Bumbleberry Inn - (435 772-3224) Zion Park Blvd. (435) 772-3303) Full gear • Majestic View - 2400 Zion Park Blvd. (435 selection and some rentals. 772-0665) • Zion Outdoor Center - 868 Zion Park • Quality Inn - 479 Zion Park Blvd. (435 Blvd. (435) 772-0990) Basic selection of 772-03237) climbing gear. Some climbing gear rental. • Terrace Brook Lodge - 990 Zion Park Climbing Guides Blvd. (800 342-6779) • Zion Park Motel - 865 Zion Park Blvd. Here are the guiding services in Springdale (435 772-3251) (they are not allowed to guide in Zion but There are much lower priced motels in can guide in nearby areas): nearby Hurricane. • Zion Adventure Company - 868 Zion Park Blvd. (435) 772-0990) - Some climbing gear Restaurants rental Here are some of our favorites in Springdale: • Zion Rock and Mountain Guides - 1458 • Coffee - The Mean Bean (932 Zion Park Zion Park Blvd. (435) 772-3303) Blvd. (435 772-0654) Other Services • Breakfast - The Pioneer Lodge (828 Zion Park Blvd. (435 772-3009) • Post Office at 624 Zion Park Blvd. • Cafe - Oscar’s Cafe 948 Zion Park Blvd. • Showers for $5 at Zion Rock and (435 772-3232) breakfast, lunch, dinner Mountain Guides - 1458 Zion Park Blvd. • Pizza - Zion Pizza and Noodle Co. (868 (435 772-3303) Zion Park Blvd. (435 772-3815) • Coin laundry at the Quality Inn. • Cafe - Sol Foods - 95 Zion Park Blvd. (435 • ATM at Zions Bank at 921 Zion Park Blvd. 772-0277) breakfast and lunch. Great patio. • Wireless internet at Pioneer Lodge Cafe at • Bar/Dinner - The Bit and Spur Saloon - 838 Zion Park Blvd. 1212 Zion Park Blvd. (435 772-3498) • Springdale Public Library at 126 Lion Blvd • Thai Food - Thai Sapa - 145 Zion Park (435 772-3676 Blvd. (435 772-0510) Rest Days Groceries There are a lot of great hikes in the park. Springdale Fruit Company - 2491 Zion Some of the favorites: Chinle Trail, Coalpits Park Blvd. (435) 772-3822) Three miles Wash, Angels Landing and Cable Mountain. west of the park entrance and sells natural, There are also a number of great slot organic and gourmet foods plus a great deli. you can learn about on Tom Jones’ Sol Foods Market - 95 Zion Park Blvd. (435 web site (www.canyoneeringusa.com). 772-0277) has the largest grocery selection A popular tourist option is to hike The in Springdale. For a supermarket, drive 20 Narrows. There is world-class mountain miles west to Hurricane. There is a Farmer’s biking just outside the park, all within a 40- Market supermarket in La Verkin at the minute drive: Gooseberry Mesa, The JEM junction of SR-9 and SR-17. The biggest Trail and Hurricane Rim Trail. Zion Cycles close supermarket is Lin’s in Hurricane. (868 Zion Park Blvd, Springdale) rents bikes and has topos. Coral Cliffs movie theatres Water and Alcohol in Hurricane have a discounted family night Fill water bottles at the Visitor Center or on Mondays; $3.50 (normally $7.50) on the campgrounds in the park. You will only current films. find 3.2% alcohol content beer in Utah Nearby Climbing Areas supermarkets. For the good beer and booze, go to the liquor store at the Switchback Mesquite, Kolob Canyons, Virgin River (877-948-8080) and pay a premium. Gorge, St. George Sport Climbing, The Overlook 14 ZION CLIMBING: SUPERTOPOS INTRODUCTION

THE NARROWS a s e M

st il Ea a Riverside Walk Tr 3 (paved trail)

Temple of Sinawava 4418ft 1347m

N W E Obse O ast e rv Y s at Rim t Poin io N Tr R t T n A ail im ra C 9 i l

T r ai l 6507ft O 1983m H Scout Weeping C E Walters Lookout Rock Wiggles Big 2 R Bend E C F A R C I T G A H E Cable Mountain N R 6930ft E Y A Angels 6496ft M 2112m D O T O R N O Landing 1980m A R U Trail N L 8 T M M Angels Hidden O Landing Canyon A U W 7 J 5990ft E N e Trail S T s 1765m H Ca T A t I ble I D M C I R ou N D nt B im ain E E T H ra 6750ft N il U T N 2057m r I a N i The Great White Throne l

6744ft C

2056m A

N C Footbridge A Y 7060ft N il O a The Grotto 2152m Y r N O T N

a t Grotto H n E YON e Trail Red Arch Mountain A AN y PS a 5930ft C K

1807m

Lower Emerald Pool Trail

Upper Emerald l i

a Pool Trail r T Middle Emerald Zion Lodge in Lady Mountain 4276ft a Pools Trail 6683ft nt 6945ft 1303m u Lodging, food 2038m o 2117m M service, trail rides p a Emerald Pools Trailhead D r 4 S t Footbridge a r ( E n Lodge parking h E e o d e

R r D

s B T e S e s R n H p A C Jacob Peak c 6.2mi e h P R r 10km 6831ft m A T I r 2083m i M R t a t i T e l O

A Mount d

P ) U Isaac Peak Moroni 5690ft N E 6825ft T E 1734m R 2081m Court of the A I H CHS N T PATRIAR Patriarchs Abraham Peak E TH Creek Viewpoint 6890ft F O Mountain of the Sun 2101m T ) R N 6722ft U d ch e 2049m O Bir t t C i

O

m

r r e e

p Y v

i s e R s Twin Brothers

r N 6863ft o h n 2092m To 9 and 89 , ( i e

l A g v Mt. Carmel Junction, i r 7157ft i i a r National Park, 2181m r V T D Spring through fall, Zion and Bryce Canyon National Park C c

h i Canyon Scenic Drive is open c

APRIL 1995 n n to shuttle buses only. Private e e LANDSLIDE B L c

L vehicles are not allowed d S A n k r beyond Canyon Junction. 7709ft W a n

o S o 2350m F D y E n K Mount Spry Bee Hive h a A t E C 6904ft r 5823ft R o Canyon Overlook Trail 2104m T N n 1775m 5 5124ft S o C i re e Z e k The Great Arch 1562m E 3.6mi in

H P (not visible from overlook)

T Canyon Junction 5.8km Pa’rus Trail trailhead

1.1mi Zi on-M 1.8km ount C N arme Tunnel l Highway Pa’rus Trail No bikes or pedestrians O (paved trail; bicycles H allowed. Ask about e p I and pets permitted) restrictions on large Zion Human w o vehicles. 1 r History Museum Z th 4000ft 1219m Bridge Mountain 6803ft Oak Creek 1.1mi 2074m 1.8km W a sh Zion Nature Center South Campground Junior Ranger Programs

il a Tr

an ZION NATIONAL PARK 6 hm South Entrance Watc Zion Canyon Theater Zion Canyon Visitor Center Cliffrose

Watchman Campground Obert C. Tanner Flanigans North 0 0.5 Kilometer Private campground Medical clinic (showers available) 0 0.5 Mile Canyon Ranch Desert Pearl/ Shuttle Information Post Office Zion Canyon shuttle Zion Canyon The Watchman 6545ft route shuttle stop Pizza & Noodle 1995m Bumbleberry/ Springdale shuttle Springdale Zions Bank route shuttle stop Springdale shuttle stop on request Bit & Spur Zion Park Inn or when people are waiting (flag stop) Other Visitor Information SPRINGDALE Paved road open to Ranger station Driftwood private vehicles Overlook/parking Drinking water

1.1mi Road distance and Restrooms 1.8km indicator Silver Bear Hiking trail Campground 9 Trails shown on Picnic area 1 Trail Guide at right Majestic Wheelchair-accessible View To 15 , Kolob Canyons, Amphitheater St George, and Las Vegas

15 FOR CURRENT R OUTE I NFORMATION, VISIT WWW.SUPERTOPO.COM INTRODUCTION

Human History Velez de Escalante and Francisco Atanasio Dominguez rode north from Mexico and by Bryan Bird eventually up the Virgin River and passed near the area of Kolob Canyons. They are the first known Europeans to visit the area. Jedediah Smith is believed to have explored the region sometime around Due to the lack of written account, little 1825. Mormon settlers began moving into is known about the early inhabitants of the the Kolob region by 1847 making their Zion area. Evidence suggests that the first home near New Harmony, Utah. In 1858 inhabitants of Zion date back to 8000 years Nephi Johnson followed a Paiute guide to ago or 6000 B.C. The first signs or evidence the mouth of the Narrows on a scouting of farming appears to have begun 2000 years mission to determine the farming potential ago. Archaeologists divide human history of the Virgin River drainage. His guided into four cultural periods: trip resulted in the settlement of the town The Archaic Period, this period covers of Virgin in 1861. In 1863, Isaac Behunin 6000 B.C. to A.D. 500 when small nomadic settled his family in the upper Zion Canyon groups of hunters and gathers roamed the near the modern day site of the Zion Lodge. area and left very little evidence of their He grew fruit corn beans and tobacco and is passing. By 300 A.D., these peoples began to credited with coming up with the name of farm corn, beans, and squash and have been Zion for the canyon. The Crawford family labeled Basketmakers. The Basketmakers left followed the Behunins into the upper Virgin an abundance of baskets in the pit houses in drainage and settled the area now known which they lived. as Oak Creek where the park museum now Farming became increasingly more sits. The Crawfords also had much success common into the Formative Period: A.D. farming in the canyon. Cattle became 500-1300. Archaeologists found evidence common in the region during this period. of small villages or pueblos throughout this Around this time, the towns of Springdale, period as the nomadic practices began to named after a pond located on the banks die off. Little is known about the details of of the Virgin River near the middle of day-to-day life of the Anasazi. The use of town, Adventure (now called Rockville), the bow and arrow became more common. Shunesburg (a modern ghost town located The two main groups of people of this era within the Trees Ranch orchards), and who left trace of their existence in Zion Grafton, (another ghost town located just were the Parowan Freemont and The Virgin outside the town of Rockville) were settled. Anasazi. These two groups are believed to John Wesley Powell and his cohorts visited have interacted with one another during the the canyon in 1869 after their foray into the end of the Formative period. The record of Grand Canyon. Powell believed the Paiute human history nearly vanishes around 1300 name for the canyon was Mukuntuweap and and is believed to be caused by widespread the name stuck. In 1895 W. R. Crawford, drought. O.D. Gifford, David Flanigan and three The Neo-Archaic Period spans from others climbed the peak between The A.D. 1300 to the 1700’s when traces of the Watchman and Bridge Mountain to scout Southern Paiute and Ute people began to a route for a possible road down Pine become more evident. They spoke common Creek, which they found impractical. John languages, traveled large distances and also Winder began the construction of the East grew crops. The Historic Period refers to the Rim Trail with the help of the residents of time span between 1700 and into the 1900s. Springdale. This trail would provide access The Historic Period retains a more to the site of the cable works on the rim of documented history and is overshadowed Cable Mountain, where a 2000-foot cable by European exploration and settlement. On car was erected for the task of moving October 13, 1776, Spanish padres Silvestre timber from the high country down into

20 ZION CLIMBING: SUPERTOPOS Human History INTRODUCTION the Virgin River drainage. Frederick S. trail was finished in 1936. Dellenbaugh created paintings of the canyon Little in the way of significant that were exhibited at the Worlds Fair in developments occurred in Zion Canyon St. Louis in 1904. His paintings helped to between the years of 1940 and 1990. One spark modern day tourist interest in Zion. of the largest floods on the Virgin River In 1909, President William Howard Taft occurred during the mid 1970s. proclaimed the area Mukuntuweap National The numbers of tourists visiting Zion Monument. Then 1917 gave birth to the National Park have continued to grow with National Park Service and the first director, the times. Due to the overwhelming amount Stephen Mather, who changed the name to of visitors and their vehicles, the shuttle bus Zion National Park. Congress added more system was implemented in the year 2000 land to the monument and changed the and continues to thrive to this day. name officially on November 19, 1919. The Kolob canyon section of the park became a separate monument in 1937 and was added to the park in 1956. The first automobile roads reached Zion in 1910. The first tourist accommodations, called The Wylie Camp, sprang up around the site of today’s Zion Lodge with a road going up the canyon as far as the Grotto in 1917. The road to the Temple of Sinawava was completed in 1924. Nevada Contracting Company began construction of the Zion-Mt. Carmel tunnel to connect the east side of the park to Springdale and finished in in 1930. The tunnel was the first million-dollar road project in the country. The Angels Landing The Jungle Bivy, Desert Shield. Photo by Andrew Burr INTRODUCTION

Geology by Bryan Bird

The magnificent scenery of Zion National history and creation of Zion National Park Park is over 250 million years in the took place during the Mesozoic Era, a time making. The Virgin River has slowly carved period running from 245 million years ago a beautiful canyon exposing almost 7000 to 65 million years ago. This was a time feet of strata. Erosion is a constant process, period in which the sea covered much of the working diligently on the slopes and walls North American continent. The seashells of Zion National Park. The cliffs in Zion and fossils provide evidence of this and are are relatively stable in comparison to found throughout the lower layers of rock higher altitude environments, where freeze in Zion. As the began and thaw play a more vigorous role in the to lift with the collision of the different changing environment. However, as rock continents, the sea began to recede and the climbers we are frequently reminded by rock middle layers of the canyon were exposed. fall that geology is constantly happening. During the middle of the Triassic period the In 1950 Herbert E. Gregory was the first Pangaea formation began to break apart. A scientist to take interest in and record the long arid period on the Colorado Plateau geological story behind Zion National Park. followed, resulting in the formation of The Colorado Plateau is a mass rivers, lakes, streams, and dunes. The lowest of land encompassing 130,000 square layer that will be of interest to rock climbers miles that fill the space between the is the Springdale Sandstone Member of the Rocky Mountains on the east and the , commonly referred Basin and Range to the west. Zion is part throughout this book as the Springdale of the formation known as the Grand Band or “lower cliff band.” The Springdale Staircase, which reveals many of the layers Band is a close cousin to the Wingate of the Colorado Plateau. The uplift of the layer found throughout the Canyonlands Colorado Plateau is caused by the collision area of Utah. Although not as spectacular of the North American and the Pacific as Wingate, it does demonstrate similar Plates. The western and eastern borders characteristics in the way it splits. have been shaped and changed by tectonic As the North American continent forces. This land mass averages just over a continued to migrate northward out of mile above sea level and remains intact as a the Pangaea formation, the mountains solid unit. Of the three types of rocks found of Colorado and Nevada created a rain on the earth (igneous, sedimentary, and shadow over the Colorado Plateau, resulting metamorphic), only the first two are seen in desert conditions and propagating the in the park. The majority of the exposed spread of what was known as the Navajo stone in the park is sedimentary, and Desert. The Navajo Desert covered 150,000 comprised predominantly of seven different square miles and is the largest dune layers of rock. These seven layers, in order formation known in North American of oldest to youngest or lowest to highest: geologic history. Late in the middle Jurassic Toroweap Formation, Kaibab Formation, Period the sea level began to rise again, , , contributing to the erosion of these dunes Moenave Formation, , and beginning the creation of the dramatic , Temple Cap Formation, cliffs that we climbers enjoy in Zion and Carmel Formation. The Navajo Layer, Canyon. The uplift of the Rocky Mountains the largest exposed layer in Zion and most stretching from Mexico to Canada caused spectacular of them all, is home to the the recession of the sea once again and majority of the rock climbing in the canyon. gave way to the creation of the Virgin River, The deposition of layers of rock in the whose power continues to cut through the

22 ZION CLIMBING: SUPERTOPOS ZION GEOLOGY CHINLE FORMATION NAVAJO FORMATION NAVAJO KAYENTA FORMATION KAYENTA MOENAVE FORMATION MOENAVE MOENKOPI FORMATION MOENKOPI TEMPLE CAP FORMATION

Illustration by Mike Tea - www.miketea.com Geology INTRODUCTION layers of rock and create the spectacular the walls are over 1000 feet thick and as Zion Canyon. little as 16 feet apart. Compare this to the The average day in Zion presents the canyon further downstream near the town Virgin River as harmless little creek. Those of Springdale where the river cuts through fortunate enough to witness the Virgin lower rock layers and the canyon is up to during flood stage can attest to its awesome two miles wide. Spectacular top-to-bottom power to move sediment. The Virgin’s crack systems are a trademark of the headwaters originate from the Markagunt Navajo cliffs of Zion and are well known Plateau north of Zion Canyon on Cedar throughout the climbing community. Mountain. The Virgin has two main arms or The Hurricane fault line runs north to branches: the North Fork, originally named south and extends from the Grand Canyon Mukuntuweap (main Zion canyon) by to Salt Lake City and is the only major fault native Paiutes, and the East Fork, originally line located within the park’s boundaries. named Parunuweap Canyon. These two However, there are many minor fault canyons join at the south end of the town lines that spur from the Hurricane Fault of Springdale and flow southward to Lake line and help promote plate movement Mead in Nevada. activity, resulting in cracks in the floor Navajo Sandstone is comprised of fine and walls of the canyons. The most recent quartz sand with variable amounts of iron major earthquake along the Hurricane oxide, (which gives it its red or pink color) Fault line occurred in 1992 and registered and calcite. Calcium carbonate and silica act a magnitude of 5.8. This tremor caused as the glue that holds the grains together, major damage to structures, evident in the allowing the Navajo layer to reach up to Balanced Rock subdivision located half a over 2000 feet in thickness. Desert varnish mile from the South Entrance to the park. is commonly found throughout the park, Gettin’ Western is one of the few routes in especially on the lower two thirds of the the canyon with documented change caused Navajo layer. Desert varnish forms face by this earthquake. The second ascent party holds and gives some of the rock a bullet reported more debris and “looseness” than hard outer layer. The Navajo layer is well the first ascent party. Since 1992, only minor bonded and less susceptible to erosion than tremors have been felt along the Hurricane the lower layers in the canyon. This superior Fault line. resiliency has resulted in the formation of It is estimated that Zion Canyon has slot canyons such as the Narrows, where been two million years in the making. Zion Canyon is a desert setting unmatched in beauty and grandeur. Forces such as plate movement, volcanic activity, drought, flood, freeze, thaw, and erosion have all played their part in its creation. The Virgin River continues to carve its way deeper into the earth. This relentless process shows us that geology is ongoing and is happening before Dust settling after a large rock fall from an unnamed peak above The Watchman Trail. Photo by our very eyes. Bryan Bird

24 ZION CLIMBING: SUPERTOPOS INTRODUCTION

With Regard to Zion poisonous flora and fauna, little or no fixed gear, extreme weather, almost no in-situ Alpinism water, and plenty of sand. By Nate Brown In the past, warnings such as this have been repeated in climbing media as a generalization for the entire park. Hopefully this book helps dispel the myth that Zion is only a place to climb scary aid routes. It isn’t fair to describe Fred Becky’s Great White Not often do climbers associate the desert Throne route and the Headache in the same with alpine style . The grave manner. The park has more to offer desert is generally hot, flat and dry. Zion climbers than the legend and lore of the past can be hot and dry, but don’t let this part has led many to believe. of the desert fool you. The alpine routes of That being said, the serious nature Zion, as opposed to the trade/aid routes, of climbing in Zion cannot be over- wonderful free climbing and family hiking, emphasized. This goes for short and long have historically been described with a skull routes alike. Good judgment rules over and crossbones. These routes are not for all decisions in any adventure found in everyone and their grave reputation is not Zion. Solid fundamental climbing skills are an embellishment. necessary to navigate the cliffs of Zion. For The larger peaks of the park, West many the legend will not be debunked and Temple, Bridge Mountain, Great White the loose, scary, myth will not be busted. Throne, Watchman, Sentinel, Abraham, Those who buy into that mindset should Isaac, Kinesava and the Towers of the take their Zion apprenticeship slowly,and Virgin, offer an incredible arena for have much respect for the realm they enter. mountaineering. Take peaks of this ilk For others, especially those with an open seriously. Many of the routes up these peaks mind and a positive attitude, many new, have only seen one or two ascents. Scout exciting, and, yes, chossy, doors will be descents prior to an ascent. It would be opened. irresponsible, and perhaps deadly, to depend on topos and written descriptions while descending the Sentinel or the Throne in the dark. Often the best way to become familiar with a descent is to ascend it first. A bolt kit is also advisable for the alpine routes. Ron Raimond used the French alpine rating system to rate the technical stretches of his bold traverse of the Towers of the Virgin and the peaks of the Court of the Patriarchs. In the future it may be that this is the best way to describe this type of climbing as opposed to the YDS, which only describes the technical aspect of the pitches. A 5.9 leader might find a route like the South Ridge of Kinesava (5.7) to be exciting and scary. Not because of the difficulty of the climbing, but because of the exposed, loose, and heads-up nature of the route (up and down). Expect to find lots of loose rock, big run-outs, stretches of vertical bushwhacking, difficult route-finding, Joe French on top of Mt. Johnson. Photo by Bryan Bird

25 FOR CURRENT R OUTE I NFORMATION, VISIT WWW.SUPERTOPO.COM INTRODUCTION

Ratings one measure of the difficulty of a wall climb. Weather, the length of the climb, skill, physical condition of the climber, the number of previous ascents, approach and Ratings descent, and many other factors all combine Grade ratings give a sense of the overall to determine the overall difficulty of a wall. commitment required on a climb. Grades Pitch ratings also can’t include the dangers of I and II refer to short crag routes. These bad bolts and poor fixed gear. ratings are seldom used. Aid ratings are based on the number of Grade I and II refers to cragging routes. bodyweight placements in a row. How is a “bodyweight” placement differentiated Grade III refers to half-day routes. from a “bomber” placement? The only way Examples: Voice From the Dust, The to know for certain is to take a fall. The Wisdom Tooth. next best way to find out is to ask yourself, Grade IV refers to full-day routes. Example: “Would I belay off this?” If the answer Shune’s Buttress, Touchstone Wall, The is “no” then it is probably a bodyweight Vigil. placement.

Grade V refers to shorter big wall routes. “C” This pitch goes hammerless. Fast parties may only take a day, but most “A” This pitch generally requires a hammer parties spend two to three days on the wall. to place pitons or copperheads. No routes Examples: Crack in the Cosmic Egg, Lunar that require hammers are in this book. Ecstasy. Grade VI refers to longer big wall routes. A0 Pulling on pieces for progress while in All but the fastest teams require at least two free climbing mode. Generally no aiders are days and usually many more. used. Grade VII refers to extreme alpine big walls A1 or C1 Easy aid: All placements are that require at least ten days of suffering bomber. Little danger of falling except on a huge wall in poor weather in a remote through pilot error. Most A1 pitches take area. Examples: Great and Secret Show, from one to two hours. Examples: Many Baffin Island; Grand Voyage, Great Trango pitches on Touchstone and Space Shot. Tower, Pakistan. A2 or C2 Moderate aid: one or two bodyweight placements over bomber gear. Free Climbing Ratings Five- to 30-foot fall potential. Examples: If you are not used to Zion sandstone, start Crux pitches on Prodigal Sun, Space Shot. a few numbers below your ability. If you Most A2 pitches take one to three hours. climb 5.11 at your home crag, start on a 5.9 A3 or C3 Hard aid: Three to five or 5.10. Ratings of offwidths and chimneys bodyweight placements in a row. Thirty- to seem much different than those for face 50-foot fall potential. Examples: Headwall routes and finger cracks. Because offwidths of Desert Shield and Swoop Gimp. and chimneys are initially so foreign and unpleasant, few people dedicate the necessary A4 or C4 Serious aid: Six to eight time to learn the techniques required to bodyweight placements in a row and a 50- climb them efficiently. A long route in Zion to 80-foot fall potential. without an offwidth is rare. A5 or C5 Extreme aid: More than nine Aid Ratings bodyweight placements in a row. Eighty- Keep in mind that aid ratings are only foot plus fall potential. Most A5 pitches take more than four hours.

26 ZION CLIMBING: SUPERTOPOS INTRODUCTION

Understanding the Maps

Topo Symbols

=

=

=

=

=

=

=

======

dirt road = slab wash Park Service Trail pendulum or arrow climbers' trail bolts approach/descent face climbing climbing route roof

rappel or 150' ledge

cornder bush bushy tree hook tree or straight-in crack

bridge gate

groove arête camp site bus stop bathroom or pit toilet parking area

Notes on Rack • “nuts” refers to any nut, stopper, or chock. “micro”= #1, 2; “sml”= #3-5; “med”= #6-8; “lrg”= #9-13 • for cams, “2 ea .75-1.5” means bring two sets of all sizes between .75” and 1.5”. Check the cam size chart to see which cam corresponds to which crack size. Topo abbreviations ow = offwidth lb = lieback­ p = fixed piton R = runout (dangerous fall) Metric system conversions 1 inch = 2.54 centimeters 1 foot = 0.305 meters 100 feet = 30.5 meter 50 yards = 45.7 meters

27 FOR CURRENT R OUTE I NFORMATION, VISIT WWW.SUPERTOPO.COM Overview Map: Lower Canyon INTRODUCTION Cragmont East Temple Temple

Bridge Slow and Delirious and Slow Slow and Delirious and Slow Kung Fu Theatre Fu Kung Kung Fu Theatre Fu Kung Mt. Spry Mt. Mt. Spry Mt. Mountain Mountain The Confluence The Gate Keeper Gate Trail The Watchman The Mt. Allgood Mt. Mt. Allgood Mt. Watchman Wall Wall museum Streaked Streaked pants pants green green Treehouse Treehouse of Horrors of of Horrors of 1 inch = 0.6 miles 0.6 = inch 1 Visitor Center Center Mojo Wall Wall Boil Boil Force Force cliff lower Angelino Angelino park park The Beehives The entrance entrance yard Hall Town library Springdale maintenance maintenance pizza

town park town O.C. Tanner Tanner O.C. Ampitheatre The Bit The Oak Creek Oak and Spur and Parunuweap Canyon Parunuweap The Alter The The Alter The of Sacrifice of of Sacrifice of 3 Marys 3 Springdale Fruit Company Fruit Gettin’ Gettin’ Western Western Big Big Big Big West Temple Temple Lebowski Lebowski Broken Tooth Broken Broken Tooth Broken Was Won Was Was Won Was The Witchead The The Witchead The How The West The How SE Ridge SE Cowboy Ridge Cowboy Subdivision Anasazi Plateau Anasazi Lhasa Plumbline Plumbline Free Lhasa Free Free Lhasa Free Chinle Trail Chinle Park Boundary Park Mt. Kinesava Mt. Wash Huber

28 ZION CLIMBING: SUPERTOPOS

West Temple north are now known as the Witch Head, the Broken Tooth, and the Rotten Tooth. All Approach time: 1.5-2.5 hours Descent time: 2-3 hours five peaks in the traverse were climbed free. When to climb: September-May Aspect: Southeast The climbs are described from left to right. Elevation gain: 2200’ on routes, 3300’ total 1. Southwest Ridge III 5.7 FA: Newell and Norman Crawford, 1933. , also known locally as This is a big hike and scramble with a few Steamboat Mountain due to its western 5th class moves. There is more elevation profile. This massive formation is one of gain than Cowboy Ridge but less exposed the tallest sandstone cliffs in the world and ridge climbing. Follow the approach for at 7810 feet the highest objective in Zion. Cowboy Ridge to the top of The Springdale Up until the spring of 2008 the only routes Band. established on the mountain were on the Move right, looking for a long-bush east faces. Brody and Jared Greer and Bryan covered ramp that enters a “V” notch in Bird finally cracked the huge expanse of the West Temple’s southwest ridge. Avoid west face in April of 2008 via a route up the following the wrong rubble ridge up to the center of the west face that went mostly free start of this ramp to avoid having to lose except for a few body lengths of climbing. elevation via intersecting gullies (take the They named their route How the West Was time to study your approach). Won (not included in this guide). Once in the ramp, continue along steep In 1998 Ron Raimonde and Dan Stih walls to your left until an obvious chimney completed an impressive multi-day traverse. break and access the notch from there They began on the South Ridge of the West (relatively easy ground with little if any Temple and finished on the north side of technical difficulty). the . Along their way they You enter the ridge above 6000 feet. Start summited every major peak in between. As out left from the notch to gain the ridge and a result of their efforts three unnamed peaks climb it direct, sometimes hiking, sometimes in the Towers of the Virgin complex received scrambling. Eventually you descend to new names. The peaks between the Sundial another deep notch by down-climbing a and the Altar of Sacrifice, from south to tall mature tree for the final step or two to

West Temple Summit West Temple Mt. Kinesava Summit Southwest Ridge

Gettin’ The Big Western Kinesava Lebowski Cowboy Ridge WEST TEMPLE

the ground. Regain lost ground to the left 2. Gettin’ Western V 5.11 of the ridge. Again you will find a ridge FA: Darren Cope and Brad Quinn, 10/90 (originally Gettin’ that goes from scrambling to hiking back to Western VI 5.10 A2). FFA: Doug Byerly and Doug Hall, 10/93. scrambling and forms a staircase of sorts to One of the more adventurous free climbs in the base of the red-colored sandstone and Zion. Be bold and be warned. Expect a bit crux of the route. of everything: quality rock, choss, run outs, You come to a very cool (if still standing) unprotectable chimneys, and bushy pitches. white sandstone feature directly on the An earthquake in 1992 may have altered the ridge. Ascend a small face which sports a route (i.e. more loose debris than what the crack (that takes gear). Coil the rope and first ascent team may have encountered). scramble along the ridge to the base of the There are two parallel crack systems 5.7 crux pitch. The final pitch begins in a that begin at the base of the cliff and head chimney with a flake, then continues up and towards the large, lone, ponderosa pine tree right past a few bolts to bolted anchor on marking the bivy for the first ascent team, the rim (50’). and the halfway point of the route. Both Once at the top, the true summit will cracks are climbable and there are options come into full view to the northeast. It is a all over. Use your binoculars, and scope the typical square top that can be accessed from best way for you. From the big ponderosa the south by dropping down into a broad pine, the angle kicks back a bit and the route flat bushy plateau and maneuvering your climbs the big left-leaning cleft in the peak. way through the brush to the other side, Approach: From the entrance to the park where you can hike up some loose scree drive south through Springdale. Turn right to a summit cairn with a register. You can on Lion Blvd. (second street on the right). continue on to the communications tower Drive west on Lion Blvd. to the cul-de-sac shelter for better views down into Zion at the end of the road. Either park in the Canyon and the Three Marys. cul-de-sac or, if your spending more than a - Text by Dow Williams day, park in the dirt lot about 400 feet back Rack: 1 ea .5-1.5”, slings, 1 rope. down the road towards the city park. Walk Descent: reverse the route making one up the paved road past the O.C. Tanner rappel (the 5.7 pitch). Amphitheater and drop into the drainage.

West Temple Summit West Temple Mt. Kinesava Summit Southwest Ridge

Gettin’ The Big Western Kinesava Lebowski Cowboy Ridge SW Ridge

Gettin’ Western The Big Lebowski Gettin’ Western N O R T H B A Y

13 5.9 stem 5.7 squeeze

5.8 hands 12 5.8 bushes 350’ to Southwest 5.8 R Ridge 18 sandy face 5.8 squeeze enter big deluxe bivy cleft down 15’ 10 dead tree in face easy 5th bushes 60’ 11 9 160' 5.10 5.11+ awkward 5.9 offwidth 1.5” 17 steep sand big hollow flake 400’ of 4th 3” and easy 5th 5.10 lieback 16 8 180'

NO! wedged blocks 5.10+ hands very scary! 5.10- offwidth 15 180' 5.8 squeeze 5.9+ 8” The Canal 5.7 chimney 180' 7 14 180' 5.7 bushes 5.7 stem The 4” steep 5.9 Big Tree 5.8 cracks 5.8 5.9 funky face slabs 5.7

13 6 Bush 160’ of 3rd Gardens 5 and 4th class

5.10 bush and sand 5.9 squeeze 180' 4 5.11- Gettin’ Western V 5 . 1 1 + bushes 6” Rack: 5.9 nuts (offsets useful) cams: 3 ea .33-1”, 2 ea 1.25-4”, 3 180' 1 ea 6” forrest 5.9 hands 60m ropess anchors thin hands 2 185' 5.8 offwidth

5.10+ steep 185' 1 5.7 sand and bush

39 FOR CURRENT R OUTE I NFORMATION, VISIT WWW.SUPERTOPO.COM The Big Lebowski WEST TEMPLE

Continue up the drainage for ten minutes. route lies a white headwall with a prominent Go left at the first fork in the drainage for red streak in it. The crux is a five-inch crack 100 feet, then begin to angle up towards a couple of pitches from the top. The Big the base of the cliff. The trail ascends a Lebowski was originally 5.10+ C1 put up steep sandy slope. Pay attention to two cliff over several days, 95 percent of it going free. bands. It is possible to skirt both of the Three weeks after the first ascent, James and cliff bands if you are careful to stay on the Brian climbed it in an impressive, one-day existing, but faint, trail. A thick bushwhack push freeing all pitches. is highly probable on this seldom-used trail, Approach: from the Springdale town hall especially if you are not careful in your and City Park walk west up the dirt road choice of routes to the base of the cliff. across the street to the south until it forks. Rack: see topo. Take the left-hand fork until it starts to curl Descent: Southwest Ridge (recommended) back around to the east. Pick up a faint trail or rap The Big Lebowski. that heads up the ridge towards the toe of the lower cliff band. Climb easy ground 3. The Big Lebowski IV/V 5.11a/b through The Springdale Band and follow FA: Eric Draper, Brody Greer, Jared Greer, and Bryan Bird 3/19- the ridge to the base of the West Temple. 21/04. FFA: James Martin and Brian McCray, 4/13/04. Just before the foot of the wall the trail This is one of biggest, longest and best traverses right and downhill to the start of free routes in Zion. Almost every pitch is the route. challenging and high quality. The route Rack: see topo. follows an obvious crack system that Descent: rap the route (the rappels are terminates on the large forested ledges surprisingly clean and straightforward) or under the left end of the plateau below the descend the Southwest Ridge route. actual summit cap. Just to the left of the

Jared and Brody Greer descending the Southwest Ridge of West Temple. Photo by Bryan Bird

40 ZION CLIMBING: SUPERTOPOS WEST TEMPLE

14 The Big Lebowski IV/V 5.11a/b Rack: 5.9+ nuts: 1 set (offsets useful) wide cams: 2 ea .33-5.5” 15 minute hike hands 21 to summit 1 ea 7 ” (optional) one rope extra webbing and runners 5.7 13 belay on 2 60m ropes block set of .5-1.5”cams Southwest and quickdraws for pitch 21 Ridge (5.7)

5.10 3rd and 4th 12 to Southwest Ridge

20 5.10+ 5.10 squeeze 5.9

11

bivy 19

5.11- Double White Russian 5.7 gulley/chim 10 loose

9 18 5.10 Hoodoo Rappel The What Have You 8 Bush Pitch tunnel through 5.9 5.10 stem nuts 5.9 ow 6 7 Tree Horns Tower 17 Donny’s good bivy for 4 The Jesus Throwin 5.9 Beaver 5.11 ow Rocks Picture loose Bypass 16 5 jugs on face Walter’s around roof Whites 5.10+/5.11- 5.10

4 15

5.10 Mustard Corner hands 3 14 5.7 World of 2 Pain 5.10 pg 1

5.9

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The First Ascent of The Big Lebowski By Mike Anderson

The collective climbing consciousness because what’s a “hero?” But sometimes reveres the ideal of the climbing lifestyle there’s a group of men who are, well, The – arranging life around climbing, not the Men, for their time and place. And I’m other way around. Most climbers, at one talking about the Springdale Crew in Zion point or another, wonder what it would be National Park. like to live in the mountains and climb every In 1994, Eric Draper didn’t realize he day the sun is shining, but the vast majority was setting his life’s path, but he knew he of us don’t do it; either we’re reluctant to wanted out of Salt Lake City, and he wanted sacrifice modern conveniences, or we simply to climb in Zion, so at the tender age of don’t have the courage to move boldly into 18 he found a job cleaning rooms in the the unknown. For some folks, bold moves Zion Lodge (a plausible cover to legitimize are just a way of life. Now this story I’m his new lifestyle), and moved to Zion. Eric about to unfold took place back in the early is a good man, and thorough. That same 2000s, just about the time of our conflict year a 17-year-old Bryan Bird first visited with Saddam and the Iraqis. I only mention Zion from Beaver, Utah, where he had been it because sometimes there’s a group of transplanted from SoCal by his family. Bird men—and I’m not going to say “heroes” was soon corrupted by the local climbers,

Jared and Brody Greer suiting up for another day on the FA of the Big Lebowski. Photo by Eric Draper The Big Lebowski History WEST TEMPLE and in 1997 he realized he needed to move Treehorn‘s Tower, Walter’s Whites, Donny’s to Zion. “Jersey” Dave Littman introduced Throwin’ Rocks, and The Jesus were perfect Eric and Bryan, and they started climbing descriptions, assuming an appropriate frame together. Their first wall route was Desert of reference. Without it, well then, you’re Alpine, a long, complex summit route on like a child who wanders into a movie… Bridge Mountain. They hiked past what is They climbed the route in a three-day push, now the Kung Fu Theatre and Confluence freeing all but about 50m, and establishing Crags on the way to that route, spotting a modern classic, and one of Zion’s longest plum lines and hatching future plans. routes. The brothers Brody and Jared Greer grew Soon after, they told Brian McCray about up in the small mountain town of Morgan, their new route and he roped up with James Utah. When Brody moved to St. George to Martin for a free attempt. They climbed attend Dixie State, he fell in love with the light and fast, hoping to finish the route in canyon country, and thought better of going a day. On the “what-have-you Bush” pitch, to college. In 1998 he set up a permanent James was moving slowly -- too slow for residence in Springdale and his little brother the record-setting McCray. So Brian started Jared, aka The Kid, soon followed. This simulclimbing up underneath him, pulling foursome of Draper, Bird, and the Greer in slack on the gri-gri as he climbed. It brothers, along with Joe French, who pissed off James, but also sent a message. arrived in 1995, would form the core of the Higher, on the crux Jesus pitch, McCray Springdale climbing community, the latest liebacked the insecure offwidth, all the while generation of Zion locals who have made sliding their lone #5 camalot up the crack. an unprecedented contribution to Zion They freed the massive route without a climbing, easily doubling the number of single fall, on-sight, in one day. While the routes in the canyon in a decade. route isn’t the hardest in the canyon, it is Alex McAfee became enthralled with one hard (don’t let the 5.11 rating fool you), and of several conspicuous crack systems on the stylistically speaking this effort by Brian and West Temple’s magnificent Southeast face, James stands out as the best free ascent in building a trail to the base of the route. But Zion history. he couldn’t convince anyone to climb it The Big Lebowski is not well known at with him. In 2003 the Greers picked up the the time of this writing, but at 2000 feet torch, building psyche for an attempt in the tall it is Zion’s most accessible long route. spring of ’04. They recruited Eric and Bryan, With high quality climbing, spacious who had dreamed of climbing that wall for ledges and fantastic views, it is destined to almost a decade, and the party was on. The become a modern classic. The Big Lebowski crew aligned their days off and after a day of represents only a tiny portion of the overall fixing and what have you, they set out. Only contribution made by the prolific Springdale an hour into the climb, Jared was jugging Crew, and rest assured they will continue the first pitch when he noticed something discovering fantastic routes for the rest of unusual above him on the rope. Bird soon us to enjoy for years to come. I don’t know realized it was a huge core shot caused by about you, but I take comfort in that. It’s chaffing on a patina flake. good knowin’ they’re out there, the Crew, “What do I do?” Jared pleaded. takin’ her easy for all us sinners. Sheesh… “Hurry the f!&@ up and get past it!” Bird well, that about does her; wraps her all up… screamed. Jared obliged and quickly raced it was a pretty good story, don’t ya think? past it, averting disaster. They rotated leads on the route’s 21 pitches, ensuring a very fresh leader on each pitch and festive belay sessions on the many spacious ledges. As they climbed, the route’s features seemed to mesh perfectly with passages from the crew’s favorite movie, The Big Lebowski.

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