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Ing Zion Climbing: Free and Clean The Definitive Guidebook to Zion Climbing Free and Clean Zion Climbing: Climbing Zion Free and Clean is the most comprehensive climber’s guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful national parks in the United States. Inside you will find up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion’s best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park’s most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from 10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available to all that Zion has to offer. l 250 of the most classic free climbs, from Ashtar Command to Shune’s Buttress. Bryan Bird l 100 never-before published free climbs. l 25 of the best clean big walls, including Moonlight Buttress and Space Shot. l Most accurate and complete beta ever for Zion. l First ascent history—much of it previously unpublished. l Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations. ISBN 978-0976523550 90000 > 7809769 523550 Contents Introduction 9 The Beehives 48 Zion Climbing Gear 10 -Mary Lou Crag Leave No Trace 11 -Hello Mary Lou Getting to Zion Distances 12 When to Climb 13 Map- Court of the Patriarchs to the Grotto Staying in Zion 13 52 Overview Map 15 History 16 Isaac 53 Geology 22 Historical Essay- Tricks of the Trade Ratings 26 -Freeloader Key to Maps 27 -Tricks of the Trade Map- Lower Canyon 28 -Iron Like A Lion In Zion Kinesava 29 Moroni 59 -Tatoween -Road To Comorah -Jolly Green Jam Crack -Voice From the Dust -Lhasa -Plan B -Plumb Line -Molecules of Emotion -Cowboy Ridge -Crack In The Cosmic Egg -The Groper West Temple 36 -Southwest Ridge Lady Mountain 68 -The Big Lebowski -Chimney Sweep -Gettin’ Western The Spearhead 70 Three Marys 44 -Iron Messiah -Left Mary- Gentleman’s Agreement -Up -Middle Mary- C.T. Chimney, More Cathedral Mountain 72 Than A Woman -Coke Explosion -Right Mary- Immaculate Conception, -Voodoo Rooves Theatre Goddess 2 ZION CLIMBING: SUPERTOPOS Map- Angels Landing, Cerberus Cerberus Gendarme 120 Gendarme, Touchstone Wall, and -West Face Routes- George The Animal Weeping Rock 75 Steel, Cynthia’s Handjob, Mean High Tide -South Face Cragging routes- Cave Crack, Angels Landing 76 Fails of Power, Cherry Crack etc. -Northeast Buttress -Touchstone Wall The Organ 79 Weeping Rock Area 128 -Cheyenne Social Club -The Great Beyond -The Oxbow Incident -Weeping Rock Chimneys -The Organasm -Organ Grinder The Great White Throne 130 -Essay- First Ascent of The Great White Angels Landing 82 Throne Historical Essay- Angel Hair -Northwest Face -The Lowe Route -Southwest Face -Angel Hair -Prodigal Sun Map- The Great White Throne and Red -Ball and Chain Arch Mountain 138 The Minotaur Tower 90 Red Arch Mountain 140 -The Megamahedral -Rites of Passage -Shune’s Buttress Moonlight Buttress Area 92 -Wigs In Space Historical Essay- Moonlight Buttress -Bits and Pieces -Sheer Lunacy -Lunar Ecstasy Carbuncle Buttress 144 -Moonlight Buttress -Made to Be Broken -Swoop Gimp Or Be Dust -Riddler’s Delight -Risk Management Map- Moonlight, Temple of Sinawava, Mountain of The Sun 148 and Leaning Wall 100 -Northwest Ridge, Golden Spur -Practice Cliffs Temple of Sinawava 101 -Freak Show Twin Brothers 151 -Toilet Cracks -South Face -The Silverback Map -Monkeyfinger - East Temple, Mt. Spry, and The 153 -The Monkey’s Always Send Dude Tunnel Wall Areas Mt. Spry 154 The Leaning Wall 108 -Sandblaster Historical Essay- Space Shot -Central Pillar -Equinox -Holy Roller -Cosmic Trauma -Dances With Zully -Space Shot -Swamp Donkey Desert Shield Area 116 -S. Ridge -Desert Shield -Disco Inferno 3 FOR CURRENT R OUTE I NFORMATION, VISIT WWW.SUPERTOPO.COM Contents INTRODUCTION East Temple 158 -Cradle to Grave -Lovelace -Strikes and Gutters -The Fang Spire -Hue and Cry -Wisdom Tooth -Negative Ghostrider -Cowboy Bob Goes To Zion Mt. Allgood 212 -Uncertain Fates -Final Seconds -Schnaggle Tooth -The Greer -Birthday Bash -Freezer Burn Johnson Mountain 214 -10th Division -Mojo Risin -Old Man of The Mountain -Mojina -Force Boyle Tunnel Wall Areas 158 -Tree House of Horror -Cragmont -The Headache Area Eagle Crags 218 -Ataxia Tower Area -Tooele Tower -Kung Fu Theatre East Zion Sub Peak of Bridge Mountain 189 -Aries Butte -North Ridge -Checkerboard Mesa -The Confluence Area Bouldering 222 -West Face Routes- Golden Gate, Take Back The Rainbow, Smash Mouth Appendix Bridge Mountain 197 Index 226 -Sand Teton Climbs by Difficulty 229 G1 198 -Unholy Matrimony -The Reach Around -Slow and Delirious Gatekeeper Wall 202 -Locksmith Dihedral -Gatekeeper Crack The Watchman 204 -Chastity Crack -Mythical Kings and Iguanas -North Ridge -The Vigil -Uklaw and Actack -Pie For Dinner -Central Pillar, Watchman Direct -The Hernia -S and M -Ivory Coast -The Silmaril 4 ZION CLIMBING: SUPERTOPOS Contents INTRODUCTION Book Credits About the Author Written by Bryan Bird. Bryan Edward Bird was born in Inglewood Aid climbing topos by Chris McNamara. California in 1977 and lived in southeast Photos by Eric Draper and Bryan Bird Los Angeles until his world was turned (unless otherwise noted). upside down at the early age of 13 when his Edited by Steve McNamara and Chris father moved the family to Beaver, Utah. McNamara Bryan realized all too quickly that Beaver Layout by Chris McNamara was not the place for him and found his Overview maps and topos by Joseph way to Zion Canyon at the age of 19 not Puryear and Chris McNamara long after a summer of learning how to top Cover Photo: Matt Wilder on Moonlight rope in the Tetons. Zion Canyon taught him Buttress. Photo by Eric Draper everything he knows about rock climbing Back Cover Photo: Joe French on Disco and has become his home. He was fortunate Inferno. Photo by Eric Draper enough to move to Zion at a time when the Cover Design by David Safanda Design canyon was ripe for climbing and making Solutions. www.safanda.com friends. These motivated individuals helped Watercolors by Renan Ozturk: Zion shape his future and help him become the Ultrabright. Mixed Media on WaterColor active member of the climbing community Paper Mosiac 8ft X 3ft that he continues to be to this day. Bryan is now 31 years old, lives in Virgin, Utah with his wife and dog, and is still in love with this little corner of the desert. 5 FOR CURRENT R OUTE I NFORMATION, VISIT WWW.SUPERTOPO.COM INTRODUCTION Warning. Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport in which severe injuries or death may occur. Relying on the information in this book may increase the danger. When climbing you can only rely on your skill, training, experience, and conditioning. If you have any doubts as to your ability to safely climb any route in this guide, do not try it. This book is neither a professional climbing instructor nor a substitute for one. It is not an instructional book. Do not use it as one. It contains information that is nothing more than a compilation of opinions about climbing in Zion. These opinions are neither facts nor promises. Treat the information as opinions and nothing more. Do not substitute these opinions for your own common sense and experience. Assumption of Risk There may be errors in this book resulting from the mistake of the authors and/or the people with whom they consulted. The information was gathered from a variety of sources, which may not have been independently verified. Those who provided the information may have made mistakes in their descriptions. The authors may have made mistakes in their conveyance of the information in this book. The authors cannot, therefore, guarantee the correctness of any of the information contained in this book. The topographical maps, photo-diagrams, difficulty ratings, protection ratings, approach and/or descent information, suggestions about equipment, and other matters may be incorrect or misleading. Fixed protection may be absent, unreliable, or misplaced. You must keep in mind that the information in this book may be erroneous, so use your own judgement when choosing, approaching, climbing, or descending from a route described in this book. DO NOT USE THIS BOOK UNLESS YOU [AND YOUR ESTATE] PROMISE NEVER TO TRY TO SUE US IF YOU GET HURT OR KILLED. Disclaimer of Warranties THE AUTHORS AND PUBLISHER WARN THAT THIS BOOK CONTAINS ONLY THE AUTHORS OPINIONS ON THE SUBJECTS DISCUSSED. THEY MAKE NO OTHER WARRANTIES, EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED, OF MERCHANTABILITY, FITNESS FOR PURPOSE, OR OTHERWISE, AND IN ANY EVENT, THEIR LIABILITY FOR BREACH OF ANY WARRANTY OR CONTRACT WITH RESPECT TO THE CONTENT OF THIS BOOK IS LIMITED TO THE PURCHASE PRICE OF THE BOOK. THEY FURTHER LIMIT TO SUCH PURCHASE PRICE THEIR LIABILITY ON ACCOUNT OF ANY KIND OF NEGLIGENT BEHAVIOR WHATSOEVER ON THEIR PART WITH RESPECT TO THE CONTENTS OF THIS BOOK. 6 ZION CLIMBING: SUPERTOPOS INTRODUCTION Acknowledgements This project has been years in the making individuals (in no particular order) deserve and obviously I couldn’t have done it alone. our gratitude and recognition for their Thank you to everyone who has helped me efforts in helping to make it so much fun to along the way, especially my wife Charlie. climb in Zion National Park: Fred Beckey, Her support and technical advice has been Galen Rowell, Pat Callis, George Lowe, invaluable throughout the project. My most Jeff Lowe, Cactus Bryan, Mike Weis, Ron sincere gratitude goes to John “Floyd” Dixon Olevsky, Dave Jones, Glen Rink, Mark Pey, for having the patience to teach me how to Mike Strassman, Bill March, Bill Forest, properly scare the hell out of myself and Brian Smoot, Scott Fischer, Jim Dunn, for planting a seed in me that continues to Jim Beyer, John Tainio, Barry Ward, Alan grow to this day.
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