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Zion & Bryce Canyon National Parks 4th Edition
by Don & Barbara Laine
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WILEY PUBLISHING,INC. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744 Copyright © 2004 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as per- mitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for permis- sion should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317/572-3447, fax 317/572-4447, E-Mail: [email protected]. Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trade- marks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN 0-7645-4287-7 Editor: Liz Albertson Production Editor: Donna Wright Photo Editor: Richard Fox Cartographer: Elizabeth Puhl Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some con- tent that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 54321 01 542877 FM.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page iii
Contents
List of Maps vi
1 Introducing Zion & Bryce Canyon National Parks 1 1 Butch Cassidy Slept Here ...... 4 The Best of Zion & Bryce Canyon National Parks ...... 4 2 A Look at Zion ...... 13 3 A Look at Bryce Canyon ...... 15
Planning Your Trip to Zion & Bryce Canyon 2 National Parks 18 1 Getting Started: Information & Reservations ...... 19 2 When to Go ...... 20 A British Invasion ...... 22 3 What Should I Take? ...... 24 Permits You Can Obtain in Advance ...... 24 4 Getting There ...... 25 5 Exploring the Parks by RV or “Car-Camping” ...... 28 Renting an RV for Your National Park Trek ...... 29 6 Package & Adventure Tours ...... 30 7 Tips for Travelers with Disabilities ...... 32 8 Tips for Travelers with Pets ...... 33 9 Tips for Travelers with Children ...... 34 10 Protecting Your Health & Safety ...... 34 11 Protecting the Environment ...... 35
3 Exploring Zion National Park 36 1 Essentials ...... 36 Where to Find Restrooms in Zion ...... 37 Fast Facts: Zion National Park ...... 41 2 Tips from a Park Ranger ...... 43 3 The Highlights ...... 44 Wildlife Viewing & Bird Watching ...... 46 01 542877 FM.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page iv
4 How to See the Park in 1 or 2 Days ...... 47 5 Seeing the Park by Car & Shuttle ...... 48 6 Historic & Man-Made Attractions ...... 50 7 Ranger & Educational Programs ...... 51 8 Guided Tours ...... 52 9 Especially for Kids ...... 52
Hikes & Other Outdoor Pursuits in Zion 4 National Park 54 1 Day Hikes ...... 54 2 Exploring the Backcountry ...... 66 The Narrows: Safety First ...... 71 3 Biking & Mountain Biking ...... 72 4 Other Sports & Activities ...... 73
5 Where to Stay, Camp & Eat in Zion 75 1 Where to Stay ...... 75 2 Camping ...... 82 3 Amenities for Each Campground, Zion National Park ...... 84 Where to Eat ...... 85
6 Exploring Bryce Canyon National Park 89 1 Essentials ...... 89 Fast Facts: Bryce Canyon National Park ...... 92 2 Tips from a Park Ranger ...... 93 Wildlife Viewing ...... 94 3 The Highlights ...... 96 Restrooms at Bryce Canyon ...... 97 4 How to See the Park in 1 or 2 Days ...... 98 5 Seeing the Park by Car ...... 98 6 Seeing the Park by Shuttle ...... 100 7 Historic & Man-Made Attractions ...... 100 8 Ranger Programs ...... 101 9 Guided Tours ...... 101 10 Especially for Kids ...... 102 01 542877 FM.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page v
Hikes & Other Outdoor Pursuits in Bryce 7 Canyon National Park 103 1 Day Hikes ...... 103 Hoodoo Photography: The “Light” Stuff ...... 108 2 Exploring the Backcountry ...... 109 3 Other Summer Sports & Activities ...... 112 4 Winter Activities ...... 113
8 Where to Stay, Camp & Eat in Bryce Canyon 115 1 Where to Stay ...... 115 2 Camping ...... 120 Amenities for Each Campground Near & In Bryce Canyon National Park ...... 121 3 Where to Eat ...... 124
9 Nearby Things to See & Do 127 1 Gateway Towns ...... 127 How’s This for Gun Control? ...... 128 2 Dixie National Forest ...... 129 3 Cedar Breaks National Monument ...... 132 4 Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument ...... 135 5 Kodachrome Basin State Park ...... 141 6 Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park ...... 142 7 Escalante State Park ...... 144 Rock or Wood—What Is This Stuff? ...... 145 8 Snow Canyon State Park ...... 146
A Nature Guide to Zion & Bryce Canyon 10 National Parks 149 1 Zion & Bryce Canyon National Parks Today ...... 149 2 The Landscape ...... 150 How Nature Paints the Parks ...... 152 3 The Flora ...... 153 4 The Fauna ...... 160 5 The Ecosystem ...... 175 01 542877 FM.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page vi
Index 174 General Index ...... 174 Accommodations Index ...... 180 Restaurant Index ...... 180
List of Maps
Southwestern Utah 3 Bryce Canyon National Park Southern Utah Driving Times 90 & Distances 27 Central Canyon 105 Zion National Park 38 Southern Canyon 107 Zion Canyon 56 Gateways to Zion & Bryce Kolob Canyons Area 59 Canyon 117 Kolob Plateau Area 67 Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument 137 Gateways to Zion & Bryce Canyon 77 01 542877 FM.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page vii
ABOUT THE AUTHORS Residents of northern New Mexico for more than 30 years, Don and Bar- bara Laine have traveled extensively throughout the Rocky Mountains and the Southwest. They are the authors of Frommer’s Colorado, Frommer’s Rocky Mountain National Park, Frommer’s Yosemite & Sequoia/Kings Canyon National Parks, and Frommer’s Utah; are the lead authors of Frommer’s National Parks of the American West; and have contributed to Frommer’s Texas and Frommer’s USA. The Laines have also written Little-Known Southwest and New Mexico & Arizona State Parks (both for The Mountaineers Books).
AN INVITATION TO THE READER In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s Zion & Bryce Canyon National Parks, 4th Edition Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744
AN ADDITIONAL NOTE Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time— and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets. 01 542877 FM.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page viii
FROMMER’S STAR RATINGS,ICONS & ABBREVIATIONS Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists. Throughout the book, look for:
Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about
Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun
Kids Best bets for kids—advice for the whole family
Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of
Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money
Tips Insider tips—some great ways to save time and money
Value Great values—where to get the best deals
The following abbreviations are used for credit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa DC Diners Club MC MasterCard
FROMMERS.COM Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com for travel information on more than 3,000 destina- tions. With features updated regularly, we give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At Frommers.com, you’ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car rentals—and you can even book travel online through our travel booking partners. At Frommers.com, you’ll also find the following: • Online updates to our most popular guidebooks • Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways • Newsletter highlighting the hottest travel trends • Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions 02 542877 Ch01.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 1
1 Introducing Zion & Bryce Canyon National Parks
There aren’t many places in the world where the forces of nature have come together with such dramatic results as in Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks. From arid desert and desolate canyons to pine-covered peaks and awe-inspiring rock formations, these two parks—located about 85 miles apart in colorful southern Utah— offer some of the American West’s most beautiful scenery, along with almost unlimited opportunities for hiking, camping, and other outdoor experiences. Zion and Bryce Canyon sit on the vast, high Colorado Plateau. They share this plateau with Utah’s three other national parks (Arches, Canyonlands, and Capitol Reef), as well as with Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona, Mesa Verde National Park in Colorado, Chaco Culture National Historical Park in New Mexico, a number of national monuments and state parks, the Hopi Indian reservation, and the vast Navajo Nation, home of America’s largest Indian tribe. The Colorado Plateau developed millions of years ago when forces deep within the earth forced the crust to rise, exposing many strata of rocks. Over several million more years, the power of ero- sion and weathering sculpted spectacular rock formations, colored with an iron-rich palette of reds, oranges, pinks, and browns. Both Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks are known for their stunning rock formations—Zion for its massive sandstone mono- liths, and Bryce for its more delicate limestone sculptures. But the wondrous natural architecture isn’t the sole reason for visiting these parks. You will also find shimmering pools of deep green water, a sometimes-roaring river, forests of pine and fir, broad panoramic views, a vast array of plants and animals, and even a bit of human history, all of which are discussed in the following pages. One thing that makes both parks so inviting is that they can be experienced in a variety of ways. Adventurers can savor challenging 02 542877 Ch01.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 2
2 CHAPTER 1 . INTRODUCING ZION & BRYCE CANYON
hiking trails and backcountry routes, while the curious can examine millions of years of geologic history and have the chance to see rare plants and animals. Meanwhile, those with an artistic bent can sim- ply lose themselves in the beauty of the parks. In searching for the essence of these natural worlds, you’ll find well- developed and maintained trail systems, overlooks offering panoramic vistas, interpretative displays, museum programs, and knowledgeable park rangers ready to help you make the most of your visit. You can’t possibly see everything there is to be seen here, and you shouldn’t try. Zion and Bryce Canyon are not to be visited as if they were amuse- ment parks, racing from ride to ride; these natural wonders are to be savored, embraced, and explored, and the best way to do that is to slow down. Take time to ponder the sunrise, sit quietly at the edge of a meadow and wait for a deer to emerge from the woods, and even, as the cliché goes, stop and smell the roses. Bryce Amphitheater is enormous, filled with countless delightfully shaped and colored formations and groups of formations, with telling names such as Wall Street, Fairyland Canyon, and Queen’s Garden. Meanwhile, the rugged stone monuments at Zion, such as the Watch- man and the West Temple, are overpowering and tend to highlight the insignificance of mankind in the total scheme of things. Among America’s western parks, these are two of the easiest to explore—to feel that you’ve gotten to know their very being. In large part, this is because their extensive trail and road systems enable visitors to explore these parks in fairly small, easily digestible bites, sampling one aspect, letting it settle, and then moving along for another taste. Bryce Canyon National Park is a bit more user-friendly than Zion, while Zion offers a greater variety of features to explore, from river canyons with colorful gardens to rocky windswept ridges. Bryce also has several fairly easy trails that lead right into the middle of some of its best scenery. This isn’t to say that Zion is hard to get into, but because of the greater variety of terrain it takes a bit more time and effort to achieve that same feeling that you know the park. One interesting difference between the parks is that at Zion you arrive at the bottom of the canyon, and in most cases look and hike up toward the rock formations. At Bryce Canyon you arrive at the top, along the rim, and look and then hike down into the amphithe- aters. Foot-power is the best way to explore both parks, although those without the physical ability or desire to hike find that there is still quite a bit for them to see. Zion has the greater variety of hik- ing trails—more than double the number at Bryce—as well as more 02 542877 Ch01.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 3
Southwestern Utah To Area Area Ski Area Escalante National National 12 Recreation Recreation — Glen Canyon Glen Canyon Highway 12 Scenic Drive Highway 12 Scenic Drive DIXIE FOREST NATIONAL To Lake Powell & To Lake Powell & Kodachrome Basin State Park State Park Grand StaircaseStaircase— 89 Tropic Escalante Nat'l Mon. Escalante Nat'l Mon. FOREST KAIBAB BRYCE CANYON NATIONAL PARK BRYCE CANYON NATIONAL PARK NATIONAL 12 Bryce DIXIE FOREST NATIONAL Canyon's Canyon's North Rim North Rim Hatch 89 To the Grand Alton 89 Kanab 89 Panguitch 143 Fredonia Mt. Carmel Junction Mt. Carmel Junction State Park State Park 14 DIXIE FOREST Glendale KAIBAB INDIAN NATIONAL Orderville RESERVATION Parowan Cedar Breaks National National Monument Monument 143 146 9 Coral Pink Sand Dunes Coral Pink Sand Dunes Brian Head Springdale Springdale 15 Cedar City ZION PARK 130 59 NATIONAL NATIONAL Kanarraville UTAH ARIZONA Virgin 17 9 56 15 Reservoir Reservoir iver AREA a R ar Quail Creek Quail Creek l
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4 CHAPTER 1 . INTRODUCING ZION & BRYCE CANYON
Fun Fact Butch Cassidy Slept Here
Robert LeRoy Parker wasn’t a bad kid. He was born into a hard-working Mormon family in the little southwestern Utah town of Beaver on April 13, 1866. The oldest of 13 children, Robert was said to be a great help to his mother, and worked on the small ranch his parents bought near Circleville, about 50 miles north of Bryce Canyon. It was in Circleville where the problems began. Teenager Robert fell in with some rather unsavory charac- ters, including one Mike Cassidy, the ne’er-do-well role model who reportedly gave the youth his first gun, and presumably from whom young Robert took the alias Cas- sidy. The boy made his way to Telluride, Colorado, worked for one of the mines there for a while, and then wan- dered up to Wyoming. A little more wandering took him back to Telluride—and, strangely enough, the Telluride bank was robbed. Butch Cassidy had officially begun his life of crime. In the following years, Butch—who gained the nickname after a short stint working in a butcher shop—became an expert at rustling cattle, robbing banks, and, his ultimate glory, robbing trains. Butch wanted to call his gang the Train Robbers Syndicate, but they raised such hell in cele- bration of their economic successes that saloonkeepers in Vernal and other Utah towns began calling them “that wild bunch,” and the name stuck. The Wild Bunch would travel through Utah, hiding out in the desolate badlands that were to become Bryce Canyon, Capitol Reef, and Canyon- lands national parks. Capitol Reef’s Cassidy Arch was named
extreme variations in elevation and terrain. Because Zion is lower, you’ll find more favorable hiking conditions in winter there, while summer hikers will appreciate the cooler temperatures in the higher elevations of Bryce Canyon.
1 The Best of Zion & Bryce Canyon National Parks From their rocky trails to their deep forests, Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks are enchanting worlds of discovery, spectacular sce- nic wonders, and magnificent outdoor playgrounds. In fact, the 02 542877 Ch01.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 5
THE BEST OF ZION & BRYCE CANYON 5
after Butch; this area was supposedly one of his favorite hiding places. If you’ve seen the 1969 movie Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, with Paul Newman as Butch and Robert Redford as his partner-in-crime Sundance, you can’t forget that spectacular scene in which Butch and his cohorts blow the door off a railroad car. Then they use way too much dynamite to open the safe, sending bills flying into the air. Apparently, the story is basically true, having taken place on June 2, 1899, near Wilcox, Wyoming. According to reports of the day, they got away with $30,000. The Union Pacific Railroad took exception to Butch’s antics. When the posses started getting a bit too close, Butch, Sundance, and Sundance’s lady friend, Etta Place (Katharine Ross in the film), took off for South America, where it’s said they continued a life of crime for a half dozen or so years. There are also some stories—unconfirmed— that it was in South America that Butch first killed anyone, that up until that time he had avoided bloodshed when- ever possible. According to some historians (as well as the movie), Butch and Sundance were shot dead in a gun battle with army troops in Bolivia. But others say it’s not so—that Butch returned to the United States, visited friends and family in Utah and Wyoming, and eventually settled in Spokane, Washington, where he lived a peaceful and respectable life under the name William T. Phillips, until he died of natural causes in 1937.
only real problems are choosing what to do, what to see, where to stay, and even where to eat. Because it can be bewildering to try to plan your trip with so many options, we’ve assembled the very best that these parks and the surrounding areas have to offer. THE BEST DAY HIKES • Emerald Pools Trail System (Zion National Park): If green is your color, you’ll love this trail—algae keeps the three pools glowing a deep, rich, and yes, emerald green. The first part of 02 542877 Ch01.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 6
6 CHAPTER 1 . INTRODUCING ZION & BRYCE CANYON
the trail leads through a forest to the Lower Emerald Pool, with its lovely waterfall and hanging garden. See p. 56. • East Mesa Trail (Zion National Park): Allow a full day for this 6-mile hike, which is an easier and shorter route to Observa- tion Point than the Observation Point Trail. From the promontory, you’ll get spectacular views down Zion Canyon, with the Great White Throne in the foreground and Red Arch Mountain beyond. See p. 63. • Navajo Loop/Queen’s Garden Trail (Bryce Canyon National Park): To truly experience magical Bryce Canyon, you should hike down into it, and this not-too-difficult combination of trails is the perfect way to go. Start at Sunset Point and get the steepest part out of the way first. You’ll see Thor’s Hammer, the towering skyscrapers of Wall Street, and some of the park’s most fanciful formations, including majestic Queen Victoria. See p. 105. • Rim Trail (Bryce Canyon National Park): This underrated trail is a delight, providing splendid views down into spectacularly scenic Bryce Amphitheater from a variety of vantage points 1 over its 5 ⁄2-mile length. More walking than hiking, the Rim Trail includes a half-mile section between two overlooks— Sunrise and Sunset—that is suitable for wheelchairs. Views are especially fine early in the morning, when you can watch the changing light on the red rocks below. See p. 107. THE BEST BACKCOUNTRY HIKES • Hiking the Narrows (Zion National Park): This is an experi- ence unique to Zion National Park—a hike through a 1,000- foot-deep canyon, with water filling it from side to side in most places. Although much of Zion is dry rock, this is any- thing but, and it’s an incredible experience for those in good shape and with strong nerves. It can be experienced in three ways—as a short day hike, a full-day hike, or an overnight hike—but all involve getting wet. Warning: Because the Nar- rows is prone to flash flooding, check weather forecasts and flashflood potential carefully before setting out. See p. 68. • Riggs Spring Loop Trail (Bryce Canyon National Park): Although this 9-mile loop can be hiked in 1 day, it’s better as an overnight backpacking trip. This enables you to take your time to see wildlife (possibly even mountain lions), as you hike through forests of Douglas fir, ponderosa pines, piñons, and 02 542877 Ch01.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 7
THE BEST OF ZION & BRYCE CANYON 7
aspen, with views of the white and pink cliffs soaring above. See p. 110. THE BEST WILDLIFE VIEWING SPOTS Check out chapter 10 for a complete guide to the flora and fauna of both parks. • Angels Landing Trail (Zion National Park): The difficult hike on this trail provides opportunities to see mule deer, golden eagles, peregrine falcons, and lizards; it also offers splendid views into Zion Canyon. Warning: The last half mile of this trail is along a knife-edge ridge—definitely not for anyone with a fear of heights. See p. 55. • The Riverside Walk (Zion National Park): Here, near the entrance to the Narrows, deep in a slot canyon carved by the Vir- gin River, you’re apt to see the American dipper bird—also called the water ouzel—as it dives into the water in search of aquatic insects. This is also the only place in the world where you’ll find the Zion snail, although it may be hard to recognize—it’s only 1 ⁄8 inch across. Warning: Because the Narrows is prone to flash flooding, check weather forecasts carefully before setting out. See p. 59. • Weeping Rock Area (Zion National Park): Easily accessible via a short but steep paved trail, Weeping Rock oozes water that nurtures lush hanging gardens and produces the perfect habitat for a variety of wildlife, especially birds. Watch for peregrine falcons, American dippers, canyon wrens, and white- throated swifts. See p. 60. • Riggs Spring Loop Trail (Bryce Canyon National Park): This little-used backcountry trail through a woodland provides an opportunity to see a variety of wildlife, possibly even one of the park’s elusive mountain lions. See p. 110. • Campgrounds (both Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks): It couldn’t be easier to see wildlife. Simply sit quietly at your campsite, preferably when few people are in the campground, and wait. You’ll see Uinta chipmunks in both parks, white- tailed antelope squirrels at Zion, and golden-mantled ground squirrels at Bryce Canyon. There are almost always plenty of birds, and you’re also apt to see mule deer, especially in Watch- man Campground at Zion National Park. See chapters 5 and 8 for campground information. 02 542877 Ch01.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 8
8 CHAPTER 1 . INTRODUCING ZION & BRYCE CANYON THE BEST SCENIC VIEWS • Zion Canyon Scenic Drive (Zion National Park): The 12- mile round-trip drive through Zion Canyon is impressive no matter how you do it—in your own vehicle (in winter only) or on the shuttle from spring through fall. In every direction the views are awe-inspiring, as the massive stone formations reach for the heavens. The road also provides easy access to a num- ber of wonderful viewpoints and trail heads just off the road- way. See p. 72. • Angels Landing (Zion National Park): The strenuous Angels Landing Trail leads across a high narrow ridge to a spectacular and dizzying view of Zion Canyon. Warning: The last half mile of this trail is along a knife-edge ridge—definitely not for anyone with a fear of heights. See p. 55. • The Narrows (Zion National Park): The sheer 1,000-foot-high walls are awe-inspiring, almost frightening, as they enclose you in a narrow world of hanging gardens, waterfalls, and sculpted sandstone arches, with the Virgin River pouring over and around your feet and legs. The Narrows are too narrow to allow you to walk next to the river, so you have to wade right through it—but the views make it worth getting wet. Warning: Because the Narrows is prone to flash flooding, check weather forecasts carefully before setting out. See p. 68. • Inspiration Point (Bryce Canyon National Park): An appro- priately named stop, Inspiration Point provides a phenomenal view down into Bryce Amphitheater, the park’s largest and most colorful natural amphitheater. From here you see the Silent City, packed with hoodoos (rock formations) that inspire the imagination. Some claim the view is even better just south of Inspiration Point along the Rim Trail, up a little rise, at what is usually called Upper Inspiration Point. See p. 96. • Queen’s Garden Trail (Bryce Canyon National Park): Presided over by majestic Queen Victoria, the thousands of colorful and intricately sculpted spires present a magnificent display when viewed from the rim. From this trail below, they’re even better. See p. 97 and p. 105. • The Rim at Sunrise (Bryce Canyon National Park): If you thought the hoodoos were magnificent in the full light of day, wait until you see them reflecting the deep colors of the morn- ing sun as it rises slowly above the rim. The changing angle of light creates a constantly moving panorama of shadow and 02 542877 Ch01.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 9
THE BEST OF ZION & BRYCE CANYON 9
color. Walk along the Rim Trail or stop at the viewpoints along the northern half of the park’s scenic drive. See p. 107 for the Rim Trail, and chapter 6 for information on the scenic drive. THE BEST NATURAL SPECTACLES • The Great White Throne (Zion National Park): A huge white monolith, the Great White Throne demands attention as soon as you glimpse it. Considered the symbol of Zion National Park, this massive block of Navajo sandstone towers 2,000 feet high, and can be seen from the scenic drive as well as from sev- eral hiking trails, including Observation Point Trail, Deertrap Mountain Trail, Angels Landing Trail, and Emerald Pools Trail. See chapters 3 and 4 for descriptions of the Great White Throne and the trails that give you the best vantage points. • The Narrows (Zion National Park): It’s difficult to compre- hend that this beautiful canyon, 1,000 feet deep and less than 30 feet wide in places, was carved from solid stone, beginning millions of years ago, by the often gently flowing Virgin River at your feet. But to see the flip side of the river, just wait for a rainstorm; it becomes an angry, destructive force that you can well imagine would slice through anything that got in its way. Warning: Because the Narrows is prone to flash flooding, check weather forecasts carefully before setting out. See p. 68. • Queen Victoria (Bryce Canyon National Park): Among the most impressive hoodoos in the park, from the right angle this honestly looks just like the photos of England’s Queen Victo- ria that you see in books and magazines. It even has the same air of superiority. See p. 105. • Bryce Amphitheater Capped with Snow (Bryce Canyon National Park): The hoodoos become transformed into intri- cately carved creatures topped with white icing, a fairyland in orange and white. You’ll get great views either from stops along the scenic drive or by walking the Rim Trail. See p. 107 for the Rim Trail, and chapter 6 for information on the scenic drive. THE BEST WINTER SPORTS LOCATION • Fairyland Loop Trail (Bryce Canyon National Park): There aren’t many cross-country ski trails that can match Bryce Canyon’s Fairyland Loop for scenic beauty. The trail leads 1 mile through a pine and juniper forest to the Fairyland Point Overlook, with spectacular views into Bryce Amphitheater, 02 542877 Ch01.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 10
10 CHAPTER 1 . INTRODUCING ZION & BRYCE CANYON
where a blanket of snow adorns the multicolored hoodoos with a sparkling white mantle. See p. 95. THE BEST CHILDREN’S & FAMILY EXPERIENCES • Junior Rangers/Explorers Program (Zion National Park): Although Junior Ranger programs are available at most national parks, the one offered at Zion each summer is quite extensive, with both morning and afternoon activities that teach kids what makes this natural wonder so special. See p. 53. • Weeping Rock Trail (Zion National Park): This short hike on a paved trail has interpretive signs explaining the natural his- tory of the area. But the best part is at the end, when the trail arrives at a rock alcove with lush hanging gardens of ferns and wildflowers, where you can lift your face to receive a cooling spray of mist from above. See p. 60. • Queen’s Garden Trail (Bryce Canyon National Park): Not only is this trail fairly easy, but it drops down into one of the most scenic parts of the park, meandering among unique and oddly carved hoodoos. It’s fun to let your imagination run wild, both for youngsters and the kid in all of us. See p. 105. THE BEST DRIVE-IN CAMPING • Watchman Campground (Zion National Park): Located just inside the park’s south entrance, Watchman Campground has well-spaced sites and lots of trees. In addition, this camp- ground is near the park shuttle terminal, providing easy access to the popular Upper Zion Canyon section of the park. And it even has electric hookups for RVs, a rarity in national parks. See p. 82. • North Campground (Bryce Canyon National Park): While both of Bryce Canyon National Park’s campgrounds offer plenty of trees, providing that genuine “forest camping” expe- rience, North Campground is closer to the Rim Trail than the park’s other campground, making it easier to rush over to catch those amazing sunrise colors. See p. 120. • Ruby’s Inn RV Park & Campground (near Bryce Canyon National Park; & 800/468-8660 or 435/834-5301): For those who want full RV hookups, a woodsy camping experience, lots of amenities, and easy access to the national park, this is the place to be. Part of a giant complex containing a motel, shops, swimming pools, and all sorts of other attractions and activities, this campground has trees and open space as well. See p. 122. 02 542877 Ch01.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 11
THE BEST OF ZION & BRYCE CANYON 11 THE BEST BACKCOUNTRY CAMPING • La Verkin Creek/Kolob Arch Trails (Zion National Park): You’ll have to sign up in advance for one of the isolated camp- sites along this spectacularly scenic trail in the Kolob Canyons. The trail takes you through forests of conifers, cottonwoods, and box elders, past hanging gardens and a series of waterfalls. There is also a side trip to a view of Kolob Arch—at over 300 feet wide, one of the largest natural arches in the world. See p. 68. THE BEST LODGING • Zion Lodge (Zion National Park; & 435/772-3213): The handsome Zion Lodge was built by the Union Pacific Rail- road. Tragedy struck in 1966 when it was destroyed by fire. However, it was rebuilt the following year in its original style, and continues to offer the best lodging and location in Zion. Situated in a forest with spectacular views of the park’s rock cliffs, it offers both cabins and motel rooms. The charming cabins each have a private porch, stone (gas-burning) fireplace, two double beds, and log beams. See p. 75. • Bryce Canyon Lodge (Bryce Canyon National Park; & 435/ 834-5361): This handsome sandstone and ponderosa pine lodge is the perfect place to stay while visiting the park. Opened in 1924, it has all the atmosphere of the 1920s, but it also has most of the modern conveniences people expect today. Especially recommended are its delightful cabins, which have been authentically restored and contain gas-burning stone fire- places. Those wanting a bit more elegance will enjoy one of the lodge’s suites, which are decorated with white wicker furnish- ings and have ceiling fans and separate sitting areas. See p. 115. • Flanigan’s Inn (near Zion National Park; & 800/765-7787 or 435/772-3244): Made of natural wood and rock, and set among trees, lawns, and flowers just outside the entrance to Zion National Park, this attractive complex has a mountain lodge atmosphere. It’s a place where you might actually want to spend some time—unlike some other area options, which are just good places to crash at the end of a busy day. See p. 79. • Best Western Ruby’s Inn (near Bryce Canyon National Park; & 888/848-6358 or 435/648-2203): The motel rooms here are fine—clean and well maintained, with color TVs, tele- phones, and air-conditioning—but the real reason to stay here is the location, just outside the park entrance. Numerous amenities are offered, from swimming pools and restaurants to 02 542877 Ch01.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 12
12 CHAPTER 1 . INTRODUCING ZION & BRYCE CANYON
shuttle service. This place has an incredible tour desk to book activities at. See p. 116. • Bryce Point Bed & Breakfast (near Bryce Canyon National Park; & 888/200-4211): The five rooms at this B&B are all unique, each decorated and named for one of Lamar and Ethel LeFevre’s children. Consequently, there’s a firefighter’s room, a commercial airline room, and so forth, all done tastefully and attractively. Most rooms offer beautiful views of Bryce Point through large picture windows, and there is also a handsomely furnished honeymoon cottage. See p. 119. THE BEST RESTAURANTS • Zion Lodge (Zion National Park; & 435/772-3213): You can’t beat the view here—large picture windows face the park’s magnificent rock formations—and the food is pretty special, too. Try the slow-roasted prime rib au jus or the very popular red trout. See p. 75. • Bryce Canyon Lodge (Bryce Canyon National Park; & 435/ 834-5361): A delightful mountain lodge atmosphere and excel- lent food make the Bryce Canyon Lodge Dining Room a win- ner. Decorated with American Indian weavings and baskets, the restaurant has two large stone fireplaces and picture windows looking out at the park. The menu here is similar to that at the Zion Lodge, with house specialties of slow-roasted prime rib au jus and fresh Utah trout, plus chicken dishes and vegetarian items. Then there are the lodge’s specialty ice creams and desserts, such as the exotic and very tasty wild “Bryceberry” bread pudding (you won’t get that at Zion!). See p. 115. • The Bit & Spur Restaurant & Saloon (near Zion National Park; & 435/772-3498): Although this looks like a rough- and-tumble Old West saloon at first glance, it’s really a very good restaurant, similar to one of the better restaurants in Santa Fe. The menu includes Mexican standards such as burri- tos, flautas, and traditional chile stew, but you’ll also find more exotic creations. Portions are generous. See p. 85. THE BEST SIDE TRIPS • Cedar Breaks National Monument (near Cedar City, a side trip from Zion National Park): A delightful little park, Cedar Breaks National Monument is a junior Bryce Canyon, with a spectacular natural amphitheater filled with stone spires, arches, and columns, and painted in reds, purples, oranges, and ochres. 02 542877 Ch01.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 13
A LOOK AT ZION 13
You can camp among the spruce, firs, and wildflowers that blan- ket the 10,000-foot plateau each summer. See p. 132. • Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument (near Bryce Canyon National Park): Among America’s newest national monuments, this vast wilderness, covering some 1.7 million acres, is known for its stark, rugged beauty, including striking red-orange canyons and deep river valleys. Unlike most other national monuments, almost all of this sweeping area is unde- veloped—there are few all-weather roads, only one maintained hiking trail, and two small developed campgrounds. But for the adventurous, there are miles upon miles of dirt roads and practically unlimited opportunities for hiking, horseback rid- ing, camping, and exploring. See p. 135.
2 A Look at Zion While it may be easy to conjure up a single defining image of the enormous Grand Canyon or the delicately sculpted rock hoodoos of Bryce, Zion is more difficult to pin down. Here you’ll find a col- lage of images and secrets, an entire smorgasbord of experiences, sights, and even smells, from massive stone sculptures and monu- ments to lush forests and roaring rivers. Zion is a park to explore, not merely to see; take time to walk its trails, visit viewpoints at dif- ferent times of the day to see the changing light, and let the park work its magic on you. First established as Mukuntuweap National Monument in 1909—mukuntuweap is a Paiute Indian word meaning “straight arrow”—its name was changed to Zion National Monument in 1918, and the area gained national park status the following year. Comprising more than 147,000 acres, the park covers a wide range of elevations—from 3,700 feet to 8,726 feet above sea level—and terrain that runs the gamut from desert to forest, with a dramatic river canyon known as the Narrows thrown in for good measure. These extremes of elevation have resulted in extremes of climate as well—temperatures in the desert areas soar to well over 100°F (38°C) in the summer, while higher elevations are sometimes covered with snow and ice in the winter. Due to this variety of conditions, Zion harbors a vast array of plant life, ranging from cactus and yucca to ponderosa pines and cottonwoods. In fact, with almost 800 native species, Zion National Park is said to have the richest diversity of plants in Utah. Be sure to watch for hanging gardens, kept alive with water from porous rocks, which you’ll see clinging to the sides of cliffs. 02 542877 Ch01.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 14
14 CHAPTER 1 . INTRODUCING ZION & BRYCE CANYON
Impressions Nothing can exceed the wondrous beauty of Zion . . . in the nobility and beauty of the sculptures there is no comparison. —Geologist Clarence Dutton (1880)
Zion is also home to a great variety of animals, drawn here in large part by the year-round water source. Indigenous mammals range from pocket gophers to mountain lions; you’ll also spy hun- dreds of birds, lizards of all shapes and sizes, and a dozen species of snakes. (Only the Great Basin rattlesnake is poisonous, and it usu- ally slithers away from you faster than you can run from it.) Mule deer are commonly observed grazing along the forest edges, and practically every park visitor comes across squirrels and chipmunks. A few elk and bighorn sheep may surface, although they’re seldom seen. Among the creatures unique to the park is the tiny Zion snail. See chapter 10 for more details on the flora and fauna of the parks. Of course, it’s not only plants and animals that need water. For some 1,500 years, humans have come here seeking not only water but also the plants and animals that the water nurtures. There is evi- dence that a group of people known as the Basket Makers lived here as early as A.D. 500, hunting the area’s wildlife, gathering berries and seeds, and growing corn, squash, and other crops. They apparently abandoned the area about A.D. 1200, perhaps because of climate changes. Members of the American Indian tribe called the Paiutes— whose descendants still live in southern Utah—are believed to have spent time in what is now the national park, but built no permanent homes. Spanish explorers were in the area in the late 18th century, and American fur traders came in the early 19th century, but there is no evidence that either actually entered what is now Zion Canyon National Park proper. Historians believe that it was not until the 1850s that European- Americans finally ventured into Zion Canyon. Probably the first was pioneer Nephi Johnson, who was shown Zion Canyon by Paiutes in November 1858, and for whom Johnson Mountain is named. He was among a group of members of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (known as Mormons) that was sent from Salt Lake City by church leader Brigham Young in search of arable land. By the early 1860s, the Mormons had begun to estab- lish farms and ranches in the area, near where Zion Lodge is located 02 542877 Ch01.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 15
A LOOK AT BRYCE CANYON 15
today and at other locations in what is now the national park. It was early Mormon settler Isaac Behunin who is credited with nam- ing his homestead “Little Zion,” because it seemed to him to be a bit of heaven on earth. In the 1870s, Major John Wesley Powell explored the area, describing Angels Landing, Court of the Patriarchs, and some of the park’s other now-famous landmarks in his journals. At about the same time, surveyor G. K. Gilbert was mapping southern Utah. He named the Narrows and described it as “the most wonderful defile it has been my fortune to behold.” Today, Zion National Park casts a spell over you as you gaze upon its sheer multicolored walls of sandstone, explore its narrow canyons, search for hanging gardens of ferns and wildflowers, and listen to the roar of the churning, tumbling Virgin River.
3 A Look at Bryce Canyon One of America’s most scenic destinations, Bryce Canyon National Park is a magical land, a place of inspiration and spectacular beauty where thousands of intricately shaped rock formations stir the imag- ination as they stand silent watch in their colorful cathedrals. Bryce Canyon is also one of the West’s most accessible national parks. Sev- eral trails lead down into the canyon—technically what geologists call an amphitheater—making it relatively easy to get to know this beautiful jewel up close. In addition, there’s an easy Rim Trail, part of which is wheelchair accessible, which makes many of the park’s best views available to virtually everyone. The canyon ranges in elevation from 6,620 feet to 9,115 feet, with desert terrain of piñon, juniper, sagebrush, and cactus at the lower lev- els, and a cool high country consisting of a dense forest of fir, spruce, and even ancient bristlecone pines. In between, where the camp- grounds and visitor center are located, is a ponderosa pine forest. Bryce Canyon is best known for its hoodoos, which geologists tell us are simply pinnacles of rock, often oddly shaped, left standing after millions of years of water and wind erosion. But perhaps a more interesting explanation lies in a Paiute legend. These American Indians, who lived in the area for several hundred years before being forced out by Anglo pioneers, told of a “Legend People” who lived here in the old days. The powerful Coyote turned them to stone for their evil ways, and today they remain frozen in time. Whatever the cause, Bryce Canyon is delightfully unique. Its intri- cate and often whimsical formations are smaller and on a more 02 542877 Ch01.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 16
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Impressions Such glorious tints, such keen contrasts of light and shade . . . can never be forgotten. . . . This is one of the grand panora- mas of the plateau country. —Geologist Clarence Dutton (1880)
human scale than the impressive rocks seen at nearby Zion, and Bryce Canyon is far easier to explore than the sometimes intimidating vast- ness of Grand Canyon National Park. Bryce is comfortable and invit- ing in its beauty; we feel we know it simply by gazing over the rim, and we’re on intimate terms after just one morning on the trail. Although the colorful hoodoos are the first things that grab your attention, it isn’t long before you notice the deep amphitheaters that envelope them, with their cliffs, windows, and arches all colored in shades of red, brown, orange, yellow, and white that change and glow with the rising and setting sun. Beyond the rocks and light are the other faces of the park: three separate life zones, each with its own unique vegetation, changing with elevation; and a kingdom of animals, from the busy chipmunks and ground squirrels to stately mule deer and their archenemy, the mountain lion. Also sometimes present in the more remote areas of the park are elk and pronghorn. It’s not known if prehistoric peoples actually saw the wonderful hoodoos at Bryce Canyon, although archaeologists do know that Paleo-Indians hunted in the area some 15,000 years ago. By about A.D. 700, the Basket Makers had established small villages in Paria Valley, east of Bryce Canyon in what is now Grand Staircase– Escalante National Monument, also discussed in this book (see chap- ter 9). By about A.D. 1100, Ancestral Puebloan peoples (also called the Anasazi) were living east of Bryce Canyon, and are believed to have visited what is now the park in search of game and timber. However, serious exploration of the Bryce area likely began later, with the Paiutes; and it’s possible that trappers, prospectors, and early Mormon scouts may have visited here in the early to mid- 1800s, before Major John Wesley Powell conducted the first thor- ough survey of the region in the early 1870s. Shortly after Powell’s exploration of the park area—in 1875—Mormon pioneer Ebenezer Bryce, a Scottish carpenter, and his wife Mary, moved here and tried raising cattle. Their home became known as “Bryce’s Canyon.” Although they stayed only 5 years before moving to Arizona, Bryce’s 02 542877 Ch01.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 17
A LOOK AT BRYCE CANYON 17
legacy is his name and his oft-quoted description of the canyon as “a helluva place to lose a cow.” The smallest of Utah’s five national parks, with an area of just under 36,000 acres, Bryce Canyon was declared a national monu- ment by President Warren Harding in 1923. The following year, Congress passed provisional legislation to make this area into “Utah National Park.” In 1928, the change in status was finalized and the park was renamed Bryce Canyon National Park, in honor of one of its early residents. 03 542877 Ch02.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 18
2 Planning Your Trip to Zion & Bryce Canyon National Parks
There once was a time when planning a visit to a national park— particularly those in the western United States—involved little more than choosing the dates and packing the car. You could be assured there would be campsites available, and you usually had the luxury of waiting until you arrived to decide exactly what you wanted to do. Those days are mostly gone; today the wise traveler invests a bit of time before leaving home, not only by reading books such as this one, but also by contacting park offices for maps and information, checking out lodging and camping choices, mak- ing reservations, and even researching restaurant, shopping, and side-trip possibilities. There are several reasons for this. First and foremost is that as more people discover the parks, they are getting more crowded, making it harder to secure campsites, lodging, and even parking. To combat this, it’s best to decide what you want to do at the park and then try to schedule your visit for the least-crowded time that is best for those activities. For instance, guided horseback rides are only offered during warmer months, but these are also the busiest times at both parks. Therefore, if horseback riding is something you want to do, schedule your trip for spring or fall, when the stables are open but the summer season crowds aren’t clogging the park. Another good reason for advance planning is that you don’t want to waste precious vacation time searching for a motel or campsite vacancy. Luckily, there are far more lodging and dining choices in and near the national parks than there were 10 or 20 years ago. At that time, we were happy if we found a restaurant that was clean and served basic American food. Today, dining out has evolved into an important part of the national park vacation experience. So don’t dread the planning work—like the preparation for any special event, planning a trip to a national park can be loads of fun. 03 542877 Ch02.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 19
GETTING STARTED: INFORMATION & RESERVATIONS 19
1 Getting Started: Information & Reservations INFORMATION Start with the national park offices for infor- mation on what to see and do, and for current warnings or changes that might not be included in this book, such as road or trail clo- sures, or extreme fire danger that might limit your park activities. Both of the parks have excellent websites, and we strongly recom- mend that one of your last activities before leaving home on your national park trip should be to check the park websites for any last- minute developments. For advance information on what to see and do in Zion National Park, contact the Superintendent, Zion National Park, Springdale, UT 84767-1099 (& 435/772-3256; www.nps.gov/zion). Officials request that those seeking trip-planning information write rather than call. It’s best to write at least a month before your planned visit, and specify what type of information you need. You can also purchase books, maps, and videos related to the park from the nonprofit Zion Natural History Association, Zion National Park, Springdale, UT 84767 (& 800/635-3959 or 435/ 772-3264; www.zionpark.org). Some publications are available in foreign languages, and several videos can be purchased in either VHS or PAL formats. Those wanting to help the nonprofit associa- tion can join ($35 single or $50 family annually) and get a 20% dis- count on purchases, a 10% discount on Zion Canyon Field Institute classes, and discounts at most other non-profit bookstores at national parks, monuments, historic sites, and recreation areas. Among the publications available from the Zion Natural History Association are the easy-to-understand 22-page booklet An Introduc- tion to the Geology of Zion National Park, by Al Warneke; and Explor- ing the Backcountry of Zion National Park: Off-trail Routes, by Thomas Brereton and James Dunaway. Those planning to spend a lot of time on the trails and in the backcountry should purchase the association’s topographic map, the Zion Topographic Map. The association also publishes a handy pocket-size Zion Canyon Shuttle Guide. For advance information on what to see and do in Bryce Canyon National Park, contact the Superintendent, Bryce Canyon National Park, P.O. Box 170001, Bryce Canyon, UT 84717, or call weekdays between 8am and 4:30pm mountain time (& 435/834-5322; www. nps.gov/brca). It’s best to write at least a month before your planned visit, and specify the kind of information you require. If you desire even more details to help plan your trip, you can order books, maps, posters, and videos (in VHS and PAL formats) from the 03 542877 Ch02.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 20
20 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP
nonprofit Bryce Canyon Natural History Association, Box 170002, Bryce Canyon, UT 84717 (& 888/362-2642 or 435/834-4600; fax 435/834-4102; www.nps.gov/brca/nhamain). The association does not offer memberships, but it does give a discount to current mem- bers of other national park natural history associations. Among the books that the association sells is the excellent Hiking Zion & Bryce Canyon National Parks (Helena, Montana: Falcon Press, 1997), by Erik Molvar and Tamara Martin, in which you’ll find detailed trail descriptions for both parks. The Bryce Canyon Auto and Hiking Guide, by Tully Stroud and Paul R. Johnson, is published by the association and has discussions of the various view- points and hiking trails, a variety of color photos of the park, and historic black-and-white photos. For those seeking more details on the park’s geology, the association publishes Shadows of Time, The Geology of Bryce Canyon National Park, 1994, by Frank DeCourten, John Telford, and Hannah Hinchman. Those planning other stops in Utah during their visit to these national parks should consider purchasing Frommer’s Utah, also by Don and Barbara Laine, the authors of this book. LODGING & CAMPING RESERVATIONS Both Zion and Bryce Canyon Lodges, which are among the best places to stay while visiting these parks, are often booked months in advance, especially for the busy summer season. Even the basic motels in the parks’ gateway towns often fill up, so we recommend making lodging reservations as early as possible. However, you can almost always find some place to stay, so don’t hesitate to take that spur-of-the- moment vacation. In fact, even Zion and Bryce Canyon Lodges will often have last-minute cancellations, so it’s well worth checking. Reservations are also recommended for those planning to stay at commercial campgrounds in the gateway towns for both parks, especially if you’ll be arriving in the late afternoon or evening. A reservations system has been implemented at one campground (Watchman) in Zion and one campground (North) in Bryce; all other campgrounds at both parks are first-come first-serve.
2 When to Go There are a number of factors to consider in choosing when to visit Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks. Those with children in school will usually have their travel schedules dictated by the school calendar, which means they will be visiting the parks at their busiest times. But this is not necessarily bad, because that’s also when both 03 542877 Ch02.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 21
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parks offer the largest number of children’s activities. Those with more flexibility in their travel schedules may want to avoid school vacation times and visit during the less crowded seasons. Another consideration is lodging. Rates at and near both parks are higher in the summer. However, visitors have more choices dur- ing the summer since some properties, including the wonderful Bryce Canyon Lodge, close in winter. See chapter 8, “Where to Stay, Camp & Eat in Bryce Canyon,” for complete lodging and dining information in Bryce, and chapter 5, “Where to Stay, Camp & East in Zion,” for complete lodging and dining information in Zion. THE CLIMATES Although Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks are in the same general area, there are differences in climate as a result of differences in elevation. Zion ranges from 3,700 feet to 8,726 feet, while the elevation at Bryce Canyon starts at 6,620 feet and rises to 9,115 feet. Both parks experience all four seasons, although the winters at Zion are relatively mild and little snow falls in the canyon. Weather- wise, spring and fall are the best times to visit Zion, with temperatures ranging from lows in the 40s (single digits in Celsius) to pleasant highs in the 80s (upper-20s to low-30s Celsius). Summer daytime highs often soar well above 100°F (38°C), with lows dipping only into the 70s (low- to mid-20s Celsius). During this time, hiking is best done in the early mornings, especially considering the frequent after- noon thunderstorms in July and August that can change a babbling brook into a raging torrent in minutes. Because of its higher elevation, Bryce Canyon is almost always cooler than Zion. May through October, daytime temperatures are pleasant—usually from the low 60s (mid-teens Celsius) to the upper 80s (lower-30s Celsius)—while nights are cool, dropping into the 40s (single digits in Celsius) even at the height of summer. After- noon thunderstorms are common in July and August. During win- ter, days are generally clear and crisp, with high temperatures often reaching the 40s (single digits in Celsius Celsius), while nights are cold, usually in the single digits or teens, and it is not uncommon to see temperatures well below zero. Snow is common in winter, although park staff plow the roads to the viewpoints. In both parks, weather conditions may limit some activities at cer- tain times. For instance, at Zion you’ll want to avoid long hikes in midsummer, when the park bakes under the desert sun; and at Bryce Canyon, winter storms can make hiking on steep trails treacherous. 03 542877 Ch02.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 22
22 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP AVOIDING THE CROWDS Both parks get their highest visitation in summer—particularly dur- ing school vacations, from early June to mid-August—and those who prefer fewer people should try to visit at other times. Zion’s quietest months are December, January, and February. Of course, even at relatively warm Zion it’s chilly then, and there is the possibility that you may have to contend with some snow and ice (although it rarely lasts). If your schedule permits, many consider it a good compromise to visit in April, May, September, or October, when the weather is usually good but the park is less crowded. Although Bryce Canyon National Park receives only two-thirds the number of annual visitors that pour into nearby Zion National Park, Bryce can still be crowded, especially during its peak season
Finds A British Invasion
Summer visitors to Zion National Park who want a change of pace can step back to Elizabethan England. It’s a much shorter trip than you might think, only 60 miles north to the community of Cedar City for Utah’s premier theater event—the Utah Shakespearean Festival. The Bard’s plays have been professionally staged in this unlikely setting since 1962, and the festival won the prestigious Tony Award for Outstanding Regional Theatre in 2000. The summer season, which runs from mid-June through August, includes six plays—usually three by Shakespeare and three others—in which top actors perform in true Eliz- abethan style in an open-air replica of the original Globe Theatre. (If it rains, productions are moved into the adja- cent enclosed theater.) Then there are two productions during the fall season, which runs from mid-September to late October. You can also take a backstage tour, offered Monday through Saturday, for $7 per person. A variety of other programs and special events are scheduled. The festival is held on the Southern Utah University cam- pus, 351 W. Center St., Cedar City, UT 84720. Ticket prices range from $16 to $44, with some matinees starting at $11. For tickets and information, call & 800/PLAYTIX or 435/586- 7880; or check out the festival’s website, www.bard.org. 03 542877 Ch02.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 23
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from mid-June to August. A better time to visit, if your schedule allows, is spring or fall. If you don’t mind a bit of cold and snow, the park is practically deserted in the winter—a typical January sees some 22,000 to 25,000 visitors, while in August there are well over 10 times that number—and the sight of bright red stone formations (hoodoos) capped with fresh white snow is something you won’t soon forget. At both parks, there are two other ways to avoid crowds at almost any time of year. First, get started on your explorations as early as possible in the day—preferably just after sunrise. Not only is the light best then and the chance of seeing wildlife much better than later in the day, but you’ll practically have the park to yourself, since the majority of visitors don’t usually get going until about 10am. The second way to avoid crowds is simply to walk away from them; most visitors never venture far from the major viewpoints. You can have a wonderful solitary experience if you’re willing to expend a little energy. Among the lesser-used day hikes at Bryce Canyon are Fairyland Loop and Peekaboo Loop; at Zion, try the Hop Valley and Observation Point Trails. At Zion you can also avoid crowds by spending time in Kolob Canyons, in the far north- west section of the park; this area is spectacular and receives surpris- ingly little use, at least in comparison to Zion Canyon. To really get away from humanity at Bryce Canyon, head out on one of the park’s two backcountry trails. (See chapter 4 for more day hikes in Zion and chapter 7 for more day hikes at Bryce Canyon.) SEASONAL EVENTS Most of the ranger-led activities, such as campfire and amphitheater programs and guided hikes and walks, occur during the summer, although a few are scheduled year-round, such as the once-a-month star-watching program presented at Bryce Canyon. Check the bul- letin boards at park visitor centers for current information. In the Bryce Canyon area, Ruby’s Inn (& 435/834-5341; www. rubysinn.com) sponsors several events throughout the year (call for the current schedule); and just outside Zion National Park, the Zion Canyon Visitor’s Bureau (& 888/518-7070; www.zionpark. com) in Springdale can provide information on upcoming events. IF YOU VISIT IN WINTER Winter can be especially beautiful in both parks, and is definitely less crowded than other times of the year. Because there are fewer park vis- itors, rangers will have more time to answer questions and discuss the park’s resources. In addition, you’re likely to see more of the bigger 03 542877 Ch02.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 24
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Tips What Should I Take?
In packing for your trip, keep in mind that this is a land of extremes, with an often-unforgiving climate and terrain. Those planning to hike or bike should take more drinking water containers than they think they’ll need—experts rec- ommend at least 1 gallon of water per person per day on the trail—as well as good-quality sunblock, hats and other pro- tective clothing, and sunglasses with ultraviolet protection. Summer visitors will want to carry rain gear for the typ- ical afternoon thunderstorms, and jackets or sweaters for cool evenings. Winter visitors will not only want warm parkas and hats, but lighter clothing as well—the bright sun at midday can make it feel like June. Take a first-aid kit, of course, and make sure it contains tweezers—very useful for removing cactus spines from your flesh if you should make the mistake of getting too close. Hikers, especially those planning to go into the Narrows at Zion National Park, will appreciate having a walking stick to brace themselves against the sometimes strong currents on the “trail” that’s actually more wading than hiking.
animals, such as deer and elk, although some of the squirrels and rep- tiles will be hibernating, and many of the birds will have flown south. There are disadvantages, of course. For one, far fewer ranger-led programs and activities are scheduled in winter. Also, sudden win- ter storms can keep you indoors and may leave hiking trails at both parks icy and treacherous. Those going to the parks in winter should carry a variety of clothing that can be worn in layers, to be added or subtracted as conditions change, and make sure to have warm boots with good traction soles. Because the roads getting to and from the parks are mountainous, cars should be equipped with snow tires and should have engine coolant that protects down to 20°F (–29°C) below zero, just in case one of those rare cold fronts moves through.
3 Permits You Can Obtain in Advance Permits for backcountry trips at both parks can be obtained several days in advance of the planned trip; however, they must be pur- chased in person at the visitor centers. One exception is at Zion, 03 542877 Ch02.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 25
GETTING THERE 25
where permits for overnight trips in the Narrows can be reserved one month in advance (contact park offices for details). Those plan- ning to fish must first purchase state fishing licenses, which are available at sporting goods stores and other businesses throughout Utah. For additional information contact the Utah Division of Wildlife Resources, 1594 W. North Temple (P.O. Box 146301), Salt Lake City, UT 84114-6301 (& 877/592-5169 or 801/538- 4700; fax 801/538-4745; www.wildlife.utah.gov), for their current Utah Fishing Proclamation. Zion National Park offers limited fishing opportunities; there are no bodies of water appropriate for fishing at Bryce Canyon National Park, although there is fishing nearby (see chapters 4 and 7 on hikes and other outdoor pursuits). Hunting is not permitted in either national park.
4 Getting There Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks are 83 miles apart by road. GETTING TO ZION NATIONAL PARK Zion National Park is located 46 miles northeast of St. George, 60 miles south of Cedar City, 83 miles southwest of Bryce Canyon National Park, and 120 miles northwest of the north rim of Grand Canyon National Park in northern Arizona. It’s 309 miles south of Salt Lake City and 158 miles northeast of Las Vegas, Nevada. BY CAR From St. George, travel north on I-15 10 miles to exit 16, then east on Utah 9 for 30 miles to the Zion Canyon section of the park. From Salt Lake City take I-15 south to exit 27, then Utah 17 south about 10 miles, and Utah 9 east about 20 miles. Though less scenic than the eastern approach to the park, this is the easiest route; it’s more direct, avoids possible delays at the Zion–Mt. Carmel Tun- nel, and delivers you to Springdale, just outside the park’s southern entrance, where most of the area’s lodging and restaurants are located. (See chapter 5, “Where to Stay, Camp & Eat in Zion.”) The Kolob Canyons section, in the park’s northwest corner, is reached via the short Kolob Canyons Road off I-15, exit 40. From the east, it’s a spectacularly scenic 24-mile drive from Mt. Carmel Junction on Utah 9 (the Zion–Mt. Carmel Hwy.), reached from either the north or south via U.S. 89. However, be aware that this route into the park drops over 2,500 feet in elevation, passes through the mile-long Zion–Mt. Carmel Tunnel, and winds down six steep switchbacks. Oversized vehicles are charged $10 for use of the tunnel (see “Regulations” in chapter 3, “Exploring Zion National 03 542877 Ch02.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 26
26 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP
Park”). From this approach, you’ll end up on the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive and then at the Visitor Center. Bryce Canyon National Park is north and east of Mt. Carmel Junction via U.S. 89 north (44 miles) and Utah 12 east (13 miles). Kanab is 17 miles southeast of Mt. Carmel Junction along U.S. 89. BY PLANE There are small airports at St. George and Cedar City, both located along I-15 and both served by Skywest Airlines (& 800/453-9417 or 435/634-3000 to St. George or 435/586-3033 to Cedar City; www.skywest.com). From either airport, it’s easy to rent a car and drive to Zion. Car-rental agencies with St. George offices include Avis (& 435/ 634-3940; www.avis.com); Enterprise (& 435/634-1556; www. enterprise.com); National (& 435/673-5098; www.nationalcar. com); and Thrifty (& 435/656-3247; www.thrifty.com). Car-rental agencies in Cedar City include Enterprise (& 435/865-7636); National (& 435/586-4004); and Avis (& 435/867-9898). The closest major airport to Zion is McCarran International Air- port in Las Vegas, Nevada (& 702/261-5211; www.mccarran.com), which is about 120 miles southwest of St. George via I-15. Most major airlines fly into McCarran, and most major car-rental agencies have outlets at the airport. The St. George Shuttle (& 800/933- 8320 or 435/628-8320; www.stgshuttle.com) provides daily serv- ice between St. George and the Las Vegas airport for $25 per per- son (2 hr. each way). GETTING TO BRYCE CANYON NATIONAL PARK Bryce Canyon National Park is 50 miles west of Escalante, 80 miles east of Cedar City, 83 miles northeast of Zion National Park, 120 miles southwest of Capitol Reef National Park, 135 miles northeast of St. George, and 160 miles north of the north rim of Grand Canyon National Park in northern Arizona. It’s about 250 miles south of Salt Lake City. BY CAR From Zion National Park, head east on Utah 9 about 18 miles to U.S. 89, north 44 miles to Utah 12, and east 17 miles to the park entrance road (Utah 63). Then go 3 miles south on Utah 63 to reach the park entrance. From St. George, travel north on I-15 10 miles to exit 16, east on Utah 9 for 63 miles to U.S. 89, north 44 miles to Utah 12, and then east 17 miles on Utah 12 to the park entrance road. From Capitol Reef National Park, take Utah 24 west 10 miles to Torrey, turn southwest onto Scenic Highway Utah 12, and drive for 03 542877 Ch02.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 27
Southern Utah Driving Times & Distances Dinosaur Salt Lake City 175 45 Nat’l Mon. :45 2:55 20 :20 Vernal Lightface numbers indicate driving times. Provo Boldface numbers indicate distances in miles. Times are estimated at a driving speed of 60 mph. COLORADO 137 2:17
205 3:25 Green River
NEVADA 53 UTAH :53 Moab 92 1:32 (Gateway(Gateway ttoo ArchesArches & Capitol Reef CanyonlandsCanyonlands Nat’lNNatat’l PParks)arks)
53 Nat'l Park :53
124 121 2:04 Monticello Cedar City 80 2:01 75
1:20 Bryce Canyon 1:15 1 83 Natural Bridges 97 52 Nat'l Park
60 1:23 Nat’l Monument 1:37 St. :52 George ZZionion NNat'lat'l PParkark 42 42 s :42 :42 65 ga Ve Kanab 1:05 s 0) Page, AZ a :0 Monument N.M. L (2:00)(2 (Access point o 78 0 1:20 ToT LasLas2 Vegas Vegas Valley 1120 for Lake Powell) ARIZONA North Rim of the Grand Canyon
about 110 miles, passing through the towns of Boulder and Escalante, to the park entrance road. From Salt Lake City, take I-15 south about 200 miles to exit 95, east 13 miles on Utah 20, south on U.S. 89 for 17 miles to Utah 12, and east 17 miles on Utah 12 to the park entrance road. BY PLANE The closest airport with regularly scheduled flights is at Cedar City, which is located along I-15 and served by Skywest Air- lines (& 435/586-3033; www.skywest.com). In Cedar City, you can rent cars from National (& 800/227-7368 or 435/586-78059; www. nationalcar.com) or Avis (& 800/354-4849 or 435/586-3033). Bryce Canyon Airport (& 435/834-5239), at 7,586 feet eleva- tion, is located several miles from the park entrance on Utah 12, and has a 7,400-foot lighted runway. Charter service is available from Bryce Canyon Airlines (& 800/979-5050 or 435/834-5341). Car rentals are available from Hertz (& 800/654-3131 for national reservations, 866/866-6616 ext. 7195 for local reservations). 03 542877 Ch02.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 28
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Fun Fact Bryce Canyon on the High Seas Believe it or not, Bryce Canyon has gone to sea! The U.S. Navy destroyer tender USS Bryce Canyon provided supplies and made repairs to hundreds of ships in the U.S. Pacific Fleet from 1947 to 1981.
5 Exploring the Parks by RV or “Car-Camping” One of the best ways to explore Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks, especially in warmer months, is in an RV, or in a car or truck while spending your nights in a tent—assuming you don’t mind roughing it a bit. One advantage to this type of travel is that early morning and early evening are among the best times to be in these parks, and it’s a lot more convenient to experience the parks at these times if you’re already there, staying in one of the park campgrounds. Another rea- son to camp is that if you have special dietary requirements, you won’t have to worry about trying to find a restaurant that can meet your needs; you’ll be able to cook for yourself, either in your RV or on a camp stove. But the best reason is simply that inexplicable feeling of content- ment that comes from waking up to the sound of birds singing and furry little creatures scurrying about outside your door—you’re liv- ing the national park experience rather than just visiting as if it were an amusement park. There are disadvantages, of course. Tents, small trailers, and even the most luxurious motor homes and fifth-wheel trailers provide somewhat close quarters. Facilities in national park campgrounds are limited, although they are being upgraded. Even in most com- mercial campgrounds, the facilities are less than you’d expect in moderately priced motels. But regardless of the drawbacks, camping is still a whole lot of fun—especially in settings as spectacular as Zion and Bryce Canyon. There are a few things that RVers might want to know. Entering Zion from the east in an RV will involve an extra fee and probably a short wait to get through the Zion–Mt. Carmel Tunnel, and there may be parking restrictions along the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive. However, entering the park from this direction is worth it, and you’ll find that taking your RV into these parks isn’t that much of a hassle, especially if you plan ahead. 03 542877 Ch02.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 29
EXPLORING THE PARKS BY RV OR “CAR-CAMPING” 29
Parking is limited, especially for motor homes and other large vehicles, so park your RV where you’ll be camping, and take shuttle
Renting an RV for Your National Park Trek
If you own an RV, you’re all set for a trip to Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks; but if you don’t, you might want to consider renting one. But first, let’s get one thing straight: You probably won’t save a lot of money. It is possible to travel fairly cheaply if you limit your equipment to a tent, a pop-up tent trailer, or a small pickup truck camper, but renting a motor home will probably end up costing almost as much as driving a compact car, staying in moderately priced motels, and eating in family-style restaurants and cafes. That’s because the motor home will go only one-third as far on a gallon of gas as your car, and they’re expensive to rent (generally between $1,000 and $1,200 per week in mid-summer, when rates are highest). But carrying your house with you gives you the oppor- tunity to stay in relative comfort in the national park campgrounds, which many park visitors feel is one of the highlights of their trip. It also lets you stop for meals any- time and anywhere you choose. An added benefit is that you won’t spend time searching for a restroom—almost all RVs have some sort of bathroom facilities. If you’re planning to fly into the area and rent an RV when you arrive, choose your starting point carefully. Rental rates vary depending on which city you pick up your RV in. Rental rates are usually less in Las Vegas, Nevada, than in Salt Lake City, and most of Utah’s national parks are closer to Las Vegas than Salt Lake City anyway. The country’s largest RV rental company, with outlets in Las Vegas and Salt Lake City, is Cruise America (& 800/ RV4RENT; www.cruiseamerica.com). RV rentals are also available from El Monte RV (& 888/337-2214; www.el monte.com). Information on additional rental agencies, as well as tips on renting, can be obtained from the Recreation Vehicle Rental Association, 3930 University Dr., Fairfax, VA 22030 (& 703/591-7130; www.rvra.org). 03 542877 Ch02.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 30
30 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP
buses as much as possible. It’s also helpful to drive either early or late in the day, when there’s less traffic. If you’ll be traveling in the parks in your RV and want to make it obvious that your campsite is occupied, carry something to leave in it, such as a cardboard box with “Site Taken” clearly written on it. Because many of the national park campsites are not level, carry four or five short boards, or leveling blocks, that can be placed under the RV’s wheels. You can buy small, inexpensive levels at RV and hardware stores, and you’ll discover that not only will you sleep better if your rig is level, but your food won’t slide off the table and the refrigerator will run more efficiently. Once you’ve got an RV or tent, you’ll need a place to put it, of course. Elsewhere in this book you’ll find information on camping in Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks, on nearby federal and state lands, and in the parks’ gateway towns. Those planning to camp else- where in the state can get information on Utah’s national forests from the U.S. Forest Service Regional Office, 2501 Wall Ave., Ogden, UT 84401 (& 801/625-5306; www.fs.fed.us/r4). The Utah State Office of the U.S. Bureau of Land Management is at 324 S. State St., Suite 301 (P.O. Box 45155), Salt Lake City, UT 84145-0155 (& 801/539-4001; www.ut.blm.gov). For information on Utah’s state parks, contact Utah State Parks and Recreation, 1594 W. North Temple, Suite 116 (P.O. Box 145610), Salt Lake City, UT 84114-5610 (& 800/322-3770, or 801/538-7220 for campground reservations; www.stateparks.utah.gov). Members of the American Automobile Association (AAA) can request the club’s free Southwestern CampBook, which includes camp- grounds and RV parks in Utah, Arizona, Colorado, and New Mexico. Also try The Unofficial Guide to the Best RV and Tent Campgrounds in California and the West (Wiley Publishing, Inc.) for loads of options.
6 Package & Adventure Tours A number of nationally recognized companies offer tours that include the Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks areas, although they don’t necessarily go within the park boundaries. In most cases, all you do is pay and then the outfitters arrange everything, includ- ing lodging, meals, and transportation. Offerings range from fairly standard bus tours to luxury adventure vacations where you spend your days hiking or biking and your evenings being pampered with gourmet meals, hot tubs, and first-class hotels. You’ll want to con- tact tour operators as far in advance as possible, since reservations 03 542877 Ch02.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 31
PACKAGE & ADVENTURE TOURS 31
are required and group sizes are limited. The adventure tour opera- tors generally specialize in small groups and have trips for various levels of ability and physical fitness. Trips are offered in a range of price categories, from basic to luxurious, and are of varying lengths. For a complete list of outfitters in Utah, as well as a lot of other use- ful information and Web links, contact the Utah Travel Council, 300 N. State St., Council Hall, Salt Lake City, UT 84114 (& 800/200- 1160 or 801/538-1030; fax 801/538-1399; www.utah.com). In addi- tion to the companies listed later in this section, two well-respected national companies that offer tours to southern Utah’s national parks are Maupintour (& 800/255-4266; www.maupintour.com) and Tauck Tours (& 800/788-7885; www.tauck.com). Here are some of our favorite tour operators: • American Orient Express, 5100 Main St., Suite 300, Downers Grove, IL 60515 (& 877/854-3545 (brochure requests), 800/ 320-4206 (reservations), or 630/663-4550; www.american orientexpress.com), offers a luxurious excursion from Santa Fe to Salt Lake City and on to Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks, with side trips to Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks included. You’ll travel in trains with restored vintage passenger cars outfitted in polished mahogany and brass, and dining cars decked out with china, silver, crystal, and linen, serving cuisine to match the surroundings. • Austin-Lehman Adventures, P.O. Box 81025, Billings, MT 59108-1025 (& 800/575-1540; www.austinlehman.com), offers guided multi-day mountain biking, hiking, and combina- tion tours in the Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks areas. • Backroads, 801 Cedar St., Berkeley, CA 94710-1800 (& 800/ 462-2848; www.backroads.com), offers a variety of guided multi-day road biking, mountain biking, and hiking tours in the areas surrounding southern Utah’s national parks. • Bicycling Adventures, P.O. Box 11219, Olympia, WA 98508 (& 800/443-6060 or 360/786-0989; fax 360/786-9661; www.bicycleadventures.com), offers guided multi-day hiking and biking excursions in the Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks areas. • GORPtravel, P.O. Box 1486, Boulder, CO 80306 (& 877/ 844-GORP; www.gorptravel.com), offers mountain biking, hiking, four-wheeling, horseback riding, rafting excursions and cattle drives throughout the West, including multi-day trips in the Bryce Canyon area. 03 542877 Ch02.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 32
32 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP
• The World Outdoors, 2840 Wilderness Place, Suite F, Boul- der, CO 80301 (& 800/488-8483; www.theworldoutdoors. org), offers a variety of trips, including multi-sport adventures that include hiking, mountain biking, horseback riding, and rafting to the Canyonlands area, plus hiking/biking trips in the vicinities of Bryce Canyon, Zion, and the north rim of the Grand Canyon.
7 Tips for Travelers with Disabilities Both Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks have made great strides in the past few years in making their facilities more accessi- ble to those with disabilities. Visitor centers at both parks are wheel- chair accessible, including the restrooms. At Bryce Canyon, a half-mile section of the Rim Trail, between Sunrise and Sunset Points, is fairly level, paved, and wheelchair accessible; several of the viewpoints along the scenic drive are accessible; the Bristlecone Loop Trail at Rainbow Point has a hard surface and is accessible with assistance; and Sunset Campground has accessible campsites. In Zion, accessible campsites are available in South and Watchman campgrounds; Riverside Walk at the end of Zion Canyon Scenic Drive is paved and accessible with assistance; Pa’rus Trail is a 2-mile paved and accessible trail, open also to bicyclists; and Zion’s shuttle system is completely accessible. In addition, rangers at both parks are extremely receptive to helping visitors with disabilities. The National Park Service’s Golden Access Passport, available free at all national parks, is a lifetime pass that is issued to any U.S. citizen or permanent resident who is medically certified as disabled or blind. The pass permits free entry and gives a 50% discount on park service campgrounds and activities, but it does not cover user fees or charges for services offered by private concessionaires. The Utah information and referral line for people with disabili- ties is & 800/333-8824. Amtrak will, with 24 hours’ notice, provide porter service, spe- cial seating, and a discount (& 800/USA-RAIL) for travelers with disabilities. If you’re traveling with a companion, Greyhound will carry you both for a single fare (& 800/231-2222). Both Amtrak and Greyhound have scheduled stops in St. George and Cedar City. Many of the major car-rental companies now offer hand-controlled cars for disabled drivers, and can provide those vehicles with advance notice. Wheelchair Getaways (& 800/642-2042 or 859/873- 4973; www.wheelchair-getaways.com) rents specialized vans with 03 542877 Ch02.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 33
TIPS FOR TRAVELERS WITH PETS 33
wheelchair lifts and other features for drivers with disabilities, with outlets in most of the southwestern states.
8 Tips for Travelers with Pets Although national surveys show that about two-thirds of pet own- ers take their pets along on their travels, the National Park Service still doesn’t get it. Practically all national parks, including Zion and Bryce Canyon, are not pet-friendly, and those planning to visit the parks should consider leaving their pets at home. Pets are prohibited on hiking trails, in the backcountry, and in all buildings, and must always be on a leash no more than 6 feet long. One happy exception is at Zion, where leashed pets are permitted on the Pa’rus Trail. Pets should not be left unattended in campgrounds at either park. Essen- tially, this means that if you take your pet into the parks they can be with you in the campgrounds and inside your vehicle, and you can walk them in parking areas, but that’s about it. Pets should never be left in closed vehicles, where temperatures can soar to over 120°F (49°C) in minutes, resulting in brain dam- age or death, and there is no punishment too severe for the human who subjects a dog or cat to that torture. At this writing, there are no boarding kennels within 80 miles of Bryce Canyon National Park. Pet boarding is available near Zion; contact Doggy Dude Ranch (& 435/772-3105). Those who do decide to take pets with them into these parks despite the fact that they are not permitted in most places, should take their pets’ leashes (of course); carry plenty of water (pet shops sell clever little travel water bowls that won’t spill in a moving vehi- cle); and proof that their dogs or cats have been vaccinated against rabies. Flea and tick spray or powder is also important, especially if
Tips Special Tip for Pet Owners Although pets are not permitted on practically any of the trails or in the backcountry in Bryce Canyon and Zion National Parks, those traveling with their dogs can hike with them over miles of trails administered by the U.S. Forest Service and Bureau of Land Management, adjacent to both national parks. Pets are also welcome, even on trails, in Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument (administered by the BLM) and in Utah’s state parks (see chapter 9, “Nearby Things to See & Do”). 03 542877 Ch02.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 34
34 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP
you will be taking your pet to Bryce Canyon, where bubonic plague is transmitted by the fleas that prey on prairie dogs and other rodents (see chapter 6, “Exploring Bryce Canyon National Park”).
9 Tips for Travelers with Children Visiting Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks with your children can be an especially rewarding experience, and is an excellent way for everyone to learn about the parks’ geology, plants, and animals, as well as to appreciate the unequaled beauty of nature. However, these parks are in remote areas, and their gateway cities are little more than small towns. There are no major chain grocery or discount stores, and although you will be able to buy items such as baby food and disposable diapers, you may not find the variety that you’re used to. Parents should carry a good supply of these items with them, or stock up before they leave larger communities such as Salt Lake City or St. George. It’s also a good idea to carry any prescription drugs you might need, and also to make sure you have the phone numbers of your doctor and pharmacist.
10 Protecting Your Health & Safety The rugged landscapes that make Zion and Bryce Canyon such beau- tiful destinations can also be hazardous. Since many areas in the parks are isolated, there may be no one there to help in an emergency. The trick is to be prepared, like any good Boy Scout (see box entitled “What Should I Take?,” earlier in this chapter). The most important thing you can do to help ensure your safety is to check with park offices and park rangers about current conditions before heading out. Southern Utah’s extremes of climate—from burning desert to snow-covered mountains—can produce health problems if you’re not prepared. If you haven’t been to the desert before, it can be difficult to comprehend the heat, dryness, and intensity of the sun. If you’re prone to dry skin, moisturizing lotion is a must; even if you’re not, you will probably end up using it. Everyone needs to use a good qual- ity sunblock, wear a hat, and wear sunglasses with full ultraviolet pro- tection. Hikers and others planning to be outside will also need to carry water—at least a gallon per person per day is recommended. The other potential problem is elevation. Bryce Canyon National Park rises to over 9,000 feet, and a side trip to Cedar Breaks National Monument (see chapter 9, “Nearby Things to See & Do”) will take you to over 10,000 feet. These elevations are high enough to produce 03 542877 Ch02.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 35
PROTECTING THE ENVIRONMENT 35
health problems for those not accustomed to them—there’s less oxy- gen and lower humidity up there than many visitors are used to. In fact, the most common complaint at the first-aid station at Bryce Canyon Lodge is shortness of breath. Those with heart or respiratory problems should consult their doctors before planning a trip to these parks, Bryce Canyon in particular. If you’re in generally good health, you don’t need to take any special precautions, but it’s advisable to ease into high elevations by changing altitude gradually. Also, get plenty of rest, avoid large meals, and drink plenty of nonalcoholic flu- ids, especially water. State health officials also warn outdoor enthusiasts to take precau- tions against hantavirus, a rare but often fatal respiratory disease, first recognized in 1993. About half of the country’s confirmed cases have been reported in the Four Corners states of Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona, and Utah. The droppings and urine of rodents usually spread the disease, and health officials recommend that campers and hikers avoid areas with signs of rodent occupation. Symptoms of hantavirus are similar to flu, and lead to breathing difficulties and shock. Other park-specific problems are bubonic plague, which is dis- cussed on p. 91 and flash flooding, which is discussed on p. 71.
11 Protecting the Environment Many of the wonderful outdoor areas that you’ll be exploring in Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks are quite isolated, especially in the backcountry at Zion. Not long ago, the rule was to “leave only footprints”; these days, we’re trying to do better and not leave even footprints. It’s relatively easy to be a good outdoor citizen— pack out all trash, stay on established trails, be especially careful not to pollute water, and, in general, do your best to have as little impact on the environment as possible. Some hikers carry a small trash bag to pick up what others may have left. As the park service says, pro- tecting our national parks is everyone’s responsibility. 04 542877 Ch03.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 36
3 Exploring Zion National Park
Utah’s most popular national park, Zion is a spectacularly beauti- ful spot that offers a wide variety of sights and experiences. The park is home to creatures of practically all shapes and sizes, from the minute Zion snail—almost too small to see at all—on up. Massive rock formations such as the Great White Throne give one the feel- ing that this land is something permanent, but the beautiful Nar- rows, where time and water have carved huge chunks of stone into a delicate work of art, prove otherwise.
1 Essentials ACCESS/ENTRY POINTS Zion National Park has two main sec- tions: Zion Canyon, the main part of the park, and the less-visited Kolob Canyons. The main east-west road through Zion Canyon is the park-owned extension of Utah 9; from this road, the park’s 12- mile round-trip Zion Canyon Scenic Drive heads north, providing access to most of the scenic overlooks and trail heads. Utah 9 crosses Zion National Park, giving the main section of the park two entry gates—south and east. The south entrance, at Springdale, is by far the more popular, with two-thirds of park visi- tors arriving there. Most area lodgings and restaurants are found in Springdale (see chapter 5, “Where to Stay, Camp & Eat in Zion”). In addition, the park’s two campgrounds and the Zion Canyon Vis- itor Center are located just inside the south entrance. There is no town at the east entrance, but that route is more scenic—it drops over 2,500 feet in elevation, passes through the mile-long Zion–Mt. Carmel Tunnel, and winds down six steep switchbacks. The tunnel can accommodate two-way traffic when standard passenger cars and pickup trucks are being used, but it is too small for two-way traffic that includes vehicles larger than these vehicles, so opposite-direction traffic must be stopped when larger vehicles are passing through (see “Regulations,” below). Those also visiting Bryce Canyon National Park will probably enter or leave Zion through the east entrance. 04 542877 Ch03.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 37
ESSENTIALS 37
Tips Where to Find Restrooms in Zion
The all-important restrooms at Zion are generally well main- tained, but vary considerably in the facilities that they offer. As at most national parks, the best restrooms are at the vis- itor centers, where you’ll find heated rooms with sinks and flush toilets. There are also public restrooms at the Zion Lodge shuttle stop. South and Watchman Campgrounds, the Grotto Picnic Area, the Human History Museum, and the Temple of Sinawava Trail Head have sinks and flush toilets. Lava Point Campground, Kolob Canyons Viewpoint, and Weeping Rock and Canyon Overlook Trail Heads have vault toilets. Although essentially outhouses, this type of facility has come a long way in the past 25 years—they’re clean, sanitary, and, best of all, they don’t smell. However, they lack lights, water for hand washing, and heat. There are no toilets along the trails or in the backcountry. During busy times, some facilities may run out of toilet paper, so it’s best to carry a backup supply.
The Kolob Canyons section, in the park’s northwest corner, is easily reached on the short Kolob Canyons Road off I-15, at exit 40. About 15 miles west of Zion Canyon, Kolob Terrace Road heads north from the village of Virgin off Utah 9, providing access to sev- eral backcountry trails (see chapter 4, “Hikes & Other Outdoor Pursuits in Zion National Park”) and the Lava Point Campground (see chapter 5, “Where to Stay, Camp & Eat in Zion”). This road is closed in the winter. To get to Bryce Canyon National Park, head north and east on Utah 9, U.S. 89, and Utah 12. VISITOR CENTERS & INFORMATION The park has two visitor centers. The Zion Canyon Visitor Center & Transporta- tion Hub (& 435/772-3256), near the south entrance to the park, has a wide variety of outdoor exhibits. Rangers answer questions and provide backcountry permits; free brochures are available; and books, maps, videos, postcards, and posters are sold. The Kolob Canyons Visitor Center (& 435/586-9548), in the northwest cor- ner of the park, right off I-15, provides information, permits, books, and maps. Both visitor centers are open from 8am to 7pm 04 542877 Ch03.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 38
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in summer, with shorter varying hours the rest of the year (call to find out when). The new Zion Human History Museum, located about one mile inside the south entrance, offers museum exhibits, park infor- mation and an orientation program, plus a bookstore. FEES Entry into the park (for up to 7 days), which includes unlim- ited use of the shuttle bus, costs $20 per private vehicle or $10 per individual on motorcycle, bicycle, or on foot (maximum charge of $20 per family). National Park, Golden Eagle, Golden Access, and Golden Age passes are honored. Oversized vehicles are charged $10 for use of the Zion–Mt. Carmel Tunnel on the east side of the park (see “Regulations,” below). Backcountry permits, available at either visitor center, are required for all overnight hikes in the park as well as for any slot canyon hikes. Permits cost $10 for one or two persons, $15 for three to six, and $20 for 7 to 12 people. Camping costs $16 per night for basic campsites and $18 to $20 per night for sites with electric hookups (located in Watchman Campground). REGULATIONS The mile-long Zion–Mt. Carmel Tunnel (see “Historic & Man-Made Attractions,” later in this chapter) is too small for two-way traffic that includes vehicles larger than standard passenger cars and pickup trucks. All vehicles over 7'10" wide (including mirrors) or 11'4" tall (including luggage racks and so forth) must be driven down the center of the tunnel, and therefore all traffic from the opposite direction must be stopped. These “over- size” vehicles must pay a $10 fee, which is good for two trips through the tunnel during a 7-day period. Drivers pay the fee at the entrance stations. Hours for the mandatory escorts for large vehicles are lim- ited during winter months (get details at park entrances or by calling park headquarters). All vehicles over 13'1" tall and other particularly large vehicles are prohibited from driving anywhere on the park road between the east entrance and Zion Canyon. Call the park head- quarters if you have questions about accessibility for your vehicle. Bicycles are prohibited in the Zion–Mt. Carmel Tunnel, the backcountry, and on trails, except the Pa’rus Trail. Feeding or dis- turbing wildlife is forbidden, as is vandalism and disturbing any nat- ural feature of the park. Dogs, which must be leashed at all times, are prohibited on all trails (except the Pa’rus Trail, where leashed pets are permitted), in the backcountry, and in public buildings. Backcountry hikers should practice minimum impact techniques and are prohibited from building fires. A limit on the number of 04 542877 Ch03.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 41
FAST FACTS: ZION NATIONAL PARK 41
people allowed in various parts of the backcountry may be in force during your visit; prospective backcountry hikers should check with rangers before setting out. You can purchase a backcountry permit at the visitor center in advance, and you can reserve permits for hikes in the Narrows (see p. 68 for more information). A free booklet called Backcountry Travel lists all regulations and has descriptions of close to 20 backcountry trails.
FAST FACTS: Zion National Park
ATMs The closest automated teller machine (ATM) to the park is at the Zion Canyon Theatre Complex (& 435/772-2400), just outside the south entrance, at 145 Zion Park Blvd. There is also an ATM at Zions Bank, 921 Zion Park Blvd. (& 435/772-3274). Car Trouble/Towing Services Emergency 24-hour service is available from W. J. Bassett Repair (& 435/772-3328) in Springdale. Emergencies Dial & 911 or 435/772-3322 24 hours a day, or locate the nearest park ranger. Gas Stations Springdale Chevron is located on the south side of town at 1593 Zion Park Blvd. (& 435/772-3922). Just out- side the east entrance to the park, there is a gas station at the Zion Mt. Carmel Restaurant (& 435/648-2829). Laundry There are no laundry facilities in Zion National Park, but coin-operated laundry machines and dryers are located at Zion Canyon Campground (& 435/772-3237), just outside the park’s east entrance, and in downtown Springdale in the Zion Park Motel complex (& 435/772-3251). Just outside the park’s east entrance, there is a coin-operated laundry at Mukun- tuweep RV Park & Campground (& 435/648-2154). Medical Services The Zion Medical Clinic, 120 Lion Blvd., Springdale (& 435/772-3226) is open daily May through Octo- ber, and about one day a week the rest of the year. For medical emergencies, dial & 911 or 435/772-3322, or locate the nearest park ranger. One of the larger hospitals in this part of the state is Dixie Regional Medical Center, 544 S. 400 E., St. George (& 435/634-4000). From the east entrance, the nearest medical facility is the Kane County Hospital and Skilled Nursing Facility, 335 N. Main St., Kanab (& 435/644-5811). 04 542877 Ch03.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 42
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Permits Permits, available at the visitor centers, are required for overnight backcountry camping (see “Fees,” under “Essen- tials,” earlier in this chapter), and special permits are also nec- essary to drive RVs and other large vehicles through the Zion–Mt. Carmel Tunnel (see “Regulations,” under “Essentials,” earlier in this chapter). Post Offices There is a post office inside Zion Lodge (ZIP 84767) and mail drops at each of the visitor centers. Spring- dale’s post office (ZIP 84767) is located at 624 Zion Park Blvd. (& 800/275-8777 for hours and other post office locations). Supplies You’ll find most of the groceries and camping and RV supplies you want in Springdale, just outside the park’s south entrance. At Zion Canyon Campground, on Zion Park Boulevard a half mile south of the park’s south entrance (& 435/772-3237) is a store selling groceries, souvenirs, and RV supplies, plus a restaurant. In downtown Springdale, the Zion Park Market, 855 Zion Park Blvd. (& 435/772-3251), stocks a good selection of groceries and also has video rentals. On the south end of Springdale on Utah 9 (the opposite side of town from the national park), is the highly recommended Springdale Fruit Company (& 435/772-3222), which sells fresh organic fruits, vegetables, and juices (try the fruit smoothies), plus trail mix and baked goods. It also has a picnic area. The Switchback C-Store, 1149 S. Zion Park Blvd. (& 435/772-3700), stocks snacks and pastries and contains the local state liquor store. Those in need of outdoor equipment, hiking boots, clothing, and the like will find what they need at Zion Rock and Mountain Guides, 1458 Zion Park Blvd. (& 435/772-3303; www.zionrock- guides.com), which offers both rentals and sales. Just outside the east entrance to the park, there is a small store and gas station at Zion Mt. Carmel Restaurant (& 435/ 648-2829). Telephones Public telephones are located at the visitor cen- ter, Zion Lodge, the Zion Human History Museum, and both Watchman and South campgrounds. Cellphone service is spotty throughout the park. Weather For current statewide weather information, contact the National Weather Service (& 801/524-5133; http://nimbo. wrh.noaa.gov/saltlake). For local weather information, call the park office at & 435/772-3256, Monday through Friday from 8am to 4:30pm. 04 542877 Ch03.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 43
TIPS FROM A PARK RANGER 43
2 Tips from a Park Ranger “Overpowering, but also intimate” is how former backcountry Ranger Dave Rachlis sees Zion National Park, adding, “These are some of the highest vertical rock walls that some people will ever see.” An added bonus is an extensive and highly accessible trail system, much of which was constructed in the 1920s and 1930s. “The park has a sense of grandeur, but then it also has access,” says Rachlis. “You can go up the West Rim Trail or you can go up the East Rim Trail, and you can get into these narrow canyons, and really experi- ence the park pretty easily.” Rachlis says that most visitors to Zion see only a small part of the park—what’s visible from the viewpoints—but he recommends that visitors stay at least a full day, adding, “In 2 or 3 days, you can see most of the major regions of the park, and get a chance to get out on the trails a bit for day hikes.” Those who want to explore the backcountry will need more time. A hike through the Narrows is “the ultimate slot canyon experi- ence,” says Rachlis. “You’re following a drainage, wading or swim- ming in a river in spots—in summer it’s one of the cooler areas of the park.” He adds, “One of the unique aspects of the Narrows is that the river runs year-round.” Rachlis also recommends the relatively easy La Verkin Creek Trail, which leads to Kolob Arch, believed to be the world’s largest freestanding arch. “It’s very intimate, very colorful—the rock is a lit- tle more orange-to-red than it is in the main canyon.” For the best scenery, Rachlis directs people to the West Rim Trail, which gets you up onto the plateau, where you can look down into the canyons. One mistake that some park visitors make, Rachlis says, is to downplay the dangers of the easy and moderate hiking trails, where most injuries occur. He says that people understand the hazards on difficult trails such as Angels Landing, where you’re inching along a knife-edge ridge; but you also need to be careful on trails with less- obvious dangers: “Sandstone is slippery, and a 20-foot fall can kill you as easily as a 1,000-foot fall.” Zion National Park has a growing reputation as a destination for rock climbers, but Rachlis says this is not the place for beginners. “There are no bolts placed on the walls for the most part; it’s free climbing, where people put their own anchoring in and then pull it out as they go up. Because of the softness of the rock, the difficulty of the crack systems here, it’s not recommended for casual climbers—it’s an expert climber’s paradise.” He recommends that 04 542877 Ch03.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 44
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those with less-than-expert rock climbing skills go to Snow Canyon State Park (p. 146). As for when to visit, Rachlis says the trails can be hot in summer, so the best times for hiking are probably spring and fall—from April to June and from September to November. The park is also less crowded at those times. He adds that the park has unpre- dictable weather, so it’s best to call to check on current conditions before showing up ready to hike.
3 The Highlights There is such a wide variety of things to do and see here that it’s dif- ficult to say which are the highlights, but probably the single most important activity for visitors is traveling the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive (by shuttle bus in summer, your car in winter), stopping at viewpoints where you can see many of the park’s best-known rock formations. Among the spectacular rock formations that you won’t want to miss is the Great White Throne , which can be seen from Zion Canyon Scenic Drive as well as from several hiking trails, including Observation Point Trail, Deertrap Mountain Trail, Angels Landing Trail, and Emerald Pools Trail (see chapter 4, “Hikes & Other Outdoor Pursuits in Zion National Park”). Considered the symbol of Zion National Park for many visitors, this massive and imposing block of Navajo sandstone towers 2,000 feet above the North Fork of the Virgin River. It can be especially impressive when colored by the setting sun. A postage stamp depicting the Great White Throne was issued in the 1930s. Another eye-catcher is the huge Checkerboard Mesa, which you pass when entering the park from the east. Looking as though some giant hand etched it, this huge dome of sandstone has a fishnet pat- tern created by a unique form of erosion and weathering. Although horizontal lines in Navajo sandstone are fairly common, experts believe that the rare vertical lines were formed by freezing and thaw- ing processes, and then enlarged by running water. For more infor- mation on the mesa, see “Seeing the Park by Car and Shuttle,” later in this chapter. Those who think of southern Utah as nothing but burning desert will learn differently at Weeping Rock, a short but steep walk along Weeping Rock Trail. Its name derives from the fact that water con- tinually runs from a spring down the vertical face of the rock, nur- turing hanging gardens. For more information on this feature, see 04 542877 Ch03.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 45
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Tips How to Snap Great Wildlife Photos The key to getting good wildlife photos is to know the ani- mals’ habits, such as where they go and when. Then, get there first and quietly wait.
chapter 4, “Hikes & Other Outdoor Pursuits in Zion National Park,” and chapter 10, “A Nature Guide to Zion & Bryce Canyon National Parks.” The Emerald Pools provide another look at the wet side of Zion—lush green plants, pretty pools of water, and two delightful cascading waterfalls. Located in a short canyon near Zion Lodge, the lower pool is an easy walk along a paved path, while the two upper pools require a bit of real hiking. The pools are named for their rich green color, the result of algae in the water. You’ll find more information on p. 56. At the end of the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive is the Temple of Sinawava, a picturesque canyon surrounded by rock walls reaching 2,000 feet into the sky. Here, you’ll discover the aptly named Pulpit and Altar rock formations, as well as maple and cottonwood trees and a spectacular waterfall that cascades almost 1,000 feet down the temple’s west wall during the spring and summer. This is the begin- ning of the Riverside Walk, discussed below and on p. 59. The Riverside Walk , one of the park’s easiest trails, should not be ignored just because it’s not a challenge. It begins at the Tem- ple of Sinawava and parallels the Virgin River, providing a good sense of the steepness of the canyon walls as you approach the Narrows. Along the walk are interpretative signs discussing this particular ecosystem. This is a good place to hear, and possibly see, the canyon tree frog, plus the American dipper and other park wildlife. For addi- tional information on the trail see p. 59 in chapter 4, “Hikes & Other Outdoor Pursuits in Zion National Park,” and chapter 10, “A Nature Guide to Zion & Bryce Canyon National Parks.” For a unique hiking experience as well as a close-up look at the power of water, venture into the Narrows , a section of the Virgin River where the canyon walls are less than 30 feet apart in spots but stand over 1,000 feet tall. To travel between these deli- cately sculpted rock walls, you’ll hike and wade. The Narrows can be experienced as a short day hike, a long 1-day through hike, or an overnight hike—although caution is needed because the Narrows is 04 542877 Ch03.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 46
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Wildlife Viewing & Bird Watching
It’s a rare visitor to Zion who doesn’t spot a critter of some sort, from mule deer—often observed along roadways and in campgrounds year-round—to the numerous varieties of lizards seen from spring through fall, including the park’s largest lizard, the chuckwalla, which can grow to 20 inches long. There has been an increasing number of sightings of desert bighorn sheep and even an occasional mountain lion along Utah 9 (the Zion–Mt. Carmel Hwy.) on the east side of the park. Along the Virgin River, you’ll see bank beaver, so named because they live in burrows dug into riverbanks instead of dams. If you’re interested in spotting birds, you’re in luck at Zion. The peregrine falcon, among the world’s fastest birds, is sometimes seen along the Angels Landing and Cable Mountain trails and in the area of the Great White Throne. It sometimes nests in the Weeping Rock area, where you’re also likely to see the American dipper, canyon wren, and white-throated swift. Bald eagles sometimes winter in the park, and you might also see golden eagles. Red-tailed hawks are fairly common, and you’ve got a very good chance of seeing great blue herons, American kestrels, Gam- bel’s quail, mourning doves, great horned owls, western kingbirds, common ravens, piñon jays, Steller’s jays, yellow- rumped warblers, wild turkeys, and American robins. Snakes include the poisonous Great Basin rattlesnake, found below 8,000 feet elevation; there are also nonpoiso- nous king snakes and gopher snakes. Amphibians found in the park include the Arizona tiger salamander, Great Basin spadefoot, red-spotted toad, and northern leopard frog. Tarantulas, those large, usually slow-moving hairy spiders, are often seen in late summer and fall. Contrary to popular belief, the tarantula’s bite is not significantly poisonous to most people, although it may be somewhat painful. Remember, it’s illegal to feed the wildlife. No matter how much you may want to befriend an animal by offering food, please remember that it’s not healthy for the wildlife to eat human food or to get used to being fed this way. For additional details on the wildlife at Zion, see chapter 10, “A Nature Guide to Zion & Bryce Canyon National Parks.” 04 542877 Ch03.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 47
HOW TO SEE THE PARK IN 1 OR 2 DAYS 47
prone to flash flooding. For details, see p. 69 chapter 4, “Hikes & Other Outdoor Pursuits in Zion National Park” and chapter 10, “A Nature Guide to Zion & Bryce Canyon National Parks.” An often-overlooked area of Zion National Park is the Kolob Canyons section, in the park’s northwest corner. With its narrow canyons and brightly colored cliffs, this is a somewhat different world than Zion Canyon. There’s a scenic drive with spectacular overlooks, and several hiking trails. See the section “Seeing the Park by Car and Shuttle,” later in this chapter, as well as p. 48.
4 How to See the Park in 1 or 2 Days The best way to see Zion is to spend a week in the park, starting with the visitor center displays and programs, then taking a Zion Canyon Scenic Drive trip on the shuttle bus, and gradually working from short hikes and walks to full-day and overnight treks into the backcountry. That’s the ideal; but for most visitors, time and finances dictate a shorter visit. If you have only a day or two, we recommend that your first stop be the Zion Canyon Visitor Center (& 435/772-3256), near the south entrance to the park, to see the exhibits, look through the free Zion Map & Guide, which describes various hiking and viewing options, and finally talk with a ranger about the amount of time you have, your abilities, and your interests. Because Zion has such a vari- ety of landscapes and activities, each visitor can easily create his or her own itinerary tailored to his or her own interests. If your goal is to see as much of the park as possible in 1 full day, we suggest the following: After a quick stop at the visitor center, hop on the shuttle bus, which hits the major Zion Canyon roadside viewpoints, plus the new Zion Human History Museum. When you get to the Temple of Sinawava (p. 59), instead of just taking a quick look and jump- ing on the next shuttle, hike the easy 2-mile round-trip Riverside Walk (p. 59), which follows the Virgin River through a narrow canyon past hanging gardens. Then continue the shuttle bus trek back to the lodge (total time: 2–4 hr.), where you might stop at the gift shop and possibly have lunch in the lodge restaurant. Near the lodge, you’ll find the trail head for the Emerald Pools (p. 56). Especially pleasant on hot days, this easy walk through a for- est of oak, maple, fir, and cottonwood trees leads to a waterfall, hanging garden, and the shimmering lower pool of the Emerald Pools. This part of the walk should take about an hour round-trip; 04 542877 Ch03.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 48
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those with a bit more ambition may want to add another hour and another mile to the loop by taking the moderately strenuous hike on a rocky, steeper trail to the upper pool. If you still have time and energy, drive back toward the south park entrance and stop at Watchman Trail Head (p. 60). Here, a moderately strenuous, 2-mile, 2-hour round-trip hike takes you to a plateau with beautiful views of several rock formations and the town of Springdale. That evening, try to take in the campground amphitheater program.
5 Seeing the Park by Car & Shuttle If you enter the park from the east, along the steep Zion–Mt. Carmel Highway, you’ll travel 13 miles to the Zion Canyon Visi- tor Center, passing between the White Cliffs and Checkerboard Mesa, a massive sandstone rock formation covered with horizontal and vertical lines that make it look like a huge fishing net. Contin- uing, you’ll pass through a fairyland of fantastically shaped rocks of red, orange, tan, and white, as well as the Great Arch of Zion, carved by the forces of erosion high in a stone cliff. At the east end of the Zion–Mt. Carmel Tunnel is the trail head parking for the Canyon Overlook Trail, a relatively easy 1-mile walk to a great view- point (p. 55). After driving through the tunnel (see “Regulations,” under “Essentials,” earlier in this chapter, for information on getting through the tunnel), you’ll traverse a number of long switchbacks as you descend to the canyon floor. The park’s shuttle bus system consists of two loops: one in the town of Springdale and the other along Zion Canyon Scenic Drive, with the loops connecting at the transit/visitor center just inside the south park entrance. April through October, access to Zion Canyon Scenic Drive (above Utah 9) is limited to shuttle buses, hikers, and bikers. The only exception will be overnight Zion Lodge guests and tour buses connected with the lodge, which will have access to the road as far as the lodge. Shuttle stops are located at all the major-use areas in the park, and shuttles run frequently (about every 6 min. at peak times). In winter, when visitation is lowest in the park, visitors
Tips Wildlife Viewing The earlier in the day you can get out on the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive, the better chance you’ll have of seeing wildlife. 04 542877 Ch03.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 49
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are permitted to drive the full length of Zion Canyon Scenic Drive in their own vehicles. Complete information about the shuttle and all stops is available at the visitor center. The ride through Zion Canyon is impressive by any standards, with massive stone reaching straight up to the heavens, and the North Fork of the Virgin River threading its way through the maze of rocks. In every direction the views are awe-inspiring. Pullouts along the road provide access to viewpoints and hiking trails (see chapter 4, “Hikes & Other Outdoor Pursuits in Zion National Park”). The first pullout is across from the Court of the Patriarchs, where a short paved trail leads to an impressive viewpoint. The next stop is Zion Lodge (p. 75), and across the road from the lodge is the trail head for the Emerald Pools trail system. The Grotto Picnic Area is about a half mile beyond the lodge, and a trail, paralleling Zion Canyon Scenic Drive, leads from the lodge to the picnic area. Across from the Grotto Picnic Area parking lot is a footbridge that leads to the Emerald Pools, Angels Landing, and West Rim trails. Continuing north into Zion Canyon, the road passes the Great White Throne on the right and then Angels Landing on the left, before the turnoff to the Weeping Rock Trail Head parking area. From here the road closely traces the curves of the river, with a cou- ple of stops to allow different views of the Organ, which to some resembles a huge pipe organ. Finally, the road ends at the Temple of Sinawava, where the paved Riverside Walk follows the Virgin River toward the Narrows, one of the most incredible sights in Zion. To escape the crowds of Zion Canyon, head to the northwest cor- ner of the park. The Kolob Canyons Road (about 45 min. from Zion Canyon Visitor Center at exit 40 of I-15) runs 5 miles among spectacular red and orange rocks, ending at a high vista. Allow about 45 minutes round-trip, including stops at numbered viewpoints. Be sure to get a copy of the Kolob Canyons Road Guide at the Kolob Visitor Center, which you will find right after you turn into the park. Here’s what you’ll pass along the way: Leaving Kolob Canyons Visitor Center, you’ll drive along the Hurricane Fault to Hurricane Cliffs, a series of tall, gray cliffs com- posed of limestone, and onward to Taylor Creek, where a piñon- juniper forest clings to life on the rocky hillside, providing a home to the bright blue scrub jay. Your next stop is Horse Ranch Moun- tain, which, at 8,726 feet, is the park’s highest point. Passing a series of colorful rock layers, where you might be lucky enough to spot a golden eagle, your next stop is Box Canyon, along the South Fork 04 542877 Ch03.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 50
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of Taylor Creek, with sheer rock walls soaring over 1,500 feet high. Along this stretch you’ll see multicolored layers of rock, pushed upward by tremendous forces from within the earth, followed by a side canyon, with large arched alcoves boasting delicate curved ceil- ings. Head on to a view of Timber Top Mountain, which has a sagebrush-blanketed desert at its base, but is covered with stately fir and ponderosa pine at its peak. Watch for mule deer on the brushy hillsides, especially between October and March, when they might be spotted just after sunrise or right before sunset. From here, con- tinue to Rockfall Overlook, where a large scar on the mountainside marks the spot where a 1,000-foot chunk of stone crashed to the earth in July 1983, the victim of erosion. And finally, stop to see the canyon walls themselves, colored orange-red by iron oxide and striped black by mineral-laden water running down the cliff faces. Probably the least visited area of the park is between Zion Canyon and Kolob Canyons, accessible via the Kolob Terrace Road (also called the Kolob Rd.). Heading north off Utah 9 from the village of Virgin, about 15 miles west of the park’s southern entrance, the Kolob Terrace Road climbs through a piñon-juniper woodlands, past grassy meadows, and finally up into a forest of tall ponderosa pines and old stands of aspen. There’s a viewpoint offering panoramic vis- tas across the park, a picnic area, vault toilets, and the small Lava Point Campground. Views from the road are good going up, but more dramatic coming down. This road is closed in the winter.
6 Historic & Man-Made Attractions There are no major historic sites at Zion National Park, but there is some archaeological evidence of the early peoples who inhabited the area, plus a few 20th-century structures of historic interest. Archae- ologists have found evidence of several historic and prehistoric cul- tures throughout the park. People from what is called the Archaic Period are believed to have occupied the area from about 7,000 to 2,500 years ago; people of the Virgin Anasazi Pueblo culture are thought to have lived at Zion until about A.D. 1150; and the South- ern Paiutes, who arrived in the area at about A.D. 1100, stayed in the area until European settlers arrived in about 1860. Although there are no designated and marked archaeological sites, hikers with sharp eyes may see pot shards, pieces of ancient stone tools, rock art, and other artifacts. There’s a site with rock art near the park’s south entrance; ask rangers for specific directions. Park officials ask that you refrain from touching these artifacts—especially rock art and 04 542877 Ch03.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 51
RANGER & EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS 51
painted pottery, because skin oils can damage them—and that you not move them. From the Weeping Rock parking area, you can see remains of a cable operation that was used to lower millions of board feet of timber from Cable Mountain to the floor of Zion Canyon between 1901 and 1926 (see section 1, “Day Hikes,” in chapter 4). The tim- ber was used for the building of pioneer settlements along the Vir- gin River. Along Taylor Creek in the Kolob Canyons section of the park are the remains of two cabins. The Gustav Larson homestead cabin, built in 1930 of white fir logs brought from Cedar City, is near the confluence of the North and Middle forks. Arthur Fife, a teacher at Branch Agricultural College (now Southern Utah University), also built a homestead cabin of white fir logs in 1930. This cabin is perched above the north bank of the creek (see “Middle Fork of Tay- lor Creek Trail,” in chapter 4). Also from that period is the Zion–Mt. Carmel Tunnel, which you’ll drive through if you’re entering or leaving the park on the east 1 side. Dedicated on July 4, 1930, the 1 ⁄4-mile tunnel cost over $500,000 and took over 3 years to build. Another historic structure, the handsome Zion Lodge, was built in 1925 by the Union Pacific Railroad, but was destroyed by fire in 1966. It was rebuilt the fol- lowing year and restored to its historic appearance in 1991. Several 1920s-era restored tourist cabins are located near the lodge. The park’s Zion Human History Museum, located one mile from the South Entrance, contains temporary exhibits on the peo- ple who inhabited this area and the objects that they created in and near the park. The museum is open daily from 8am to 5pm.
7 Ranger & Educational Programs Park rangers present a variety of free programs and activities. Amphitheater programs, which usually include a slide show, take place most evenings at campground amphitheaters. Topics vary, but could include the animals or plants of the park, geology, the night sky, mankind’s role in the park, or some unique aspect of Zion, like slot canyons. Rangers also give short talks on similar subjects at var- ious locations, including the Zion Lodge auditorium and Zion Human History Museum. Ranger-guided hikes and walks, which may require reservations, might take you to little-visited areas of the park, on a trek to see wildflowers, or for a night hike under a full moon. Schedules of the various programs and activities are 04 542877 Ch03.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 52
52 CHAPTER 3 . EXPLORING ZION NATIONAL PARK
posted on bulletin boards at the visitor centers, campgrounds, and other locations. The Zion Canyon Field Institute, operated by the non-profit Zion Natural History Association, Zion National Park, Springdale, UT 84767 (& 800/635-3959 or 435/772-3264; www.zionpark.org), offers a variety of 1 to 3-day outdoor workshops and classes for adults, covering subjects in the sciences, arts, and humanities. Programs take place year-round in Zion National Park and nearby Cedar Breaks National Monument (see chapter 9, “Nearby Things to See & Do”). Recent program titles have included Geology of Zion, Interpreting the Zion Narrows, Mountain Wildflowers & Trees, Wildlife and Out- door Photography, and Winter Photography. Fees for most of the pro- grams range from $40 to $80. Members of the Zion Natural History Association (p. 19), receive a 10% discount on Zion Canyon Field Institute classes.
8 Guided Tours Guided horseback rides in the park are available from Canyon Trail Rides. Just outside the park, guided hikes and rock climbing trips are offered by Zion Rock and Mountain Guides. Springdale Cycle Tours provides guided road and mountain bike trips. See chapter 4, “Hikes & Other Outdoor Pursuits in Zion National Park.” Several national tour operators offer guided biking, hiking, and backpacking trips in the park area (although not in the park itself— commercial guided hikes are prohibited in Zion), as well as more tra- ditional tours; see section 6, “Package & Adventure Tours,” in chapter 2, “Planning Your Trip to Zion & Bryce Canyon National Parks.”
9 Especially for Kids One of the nicest things about Zion National Park is the wide vari- ety of hiking trails that it offers—there is usually a path suited to every family member’s ability level. Among trails that children find especially enjoyable are the Weeping Rock Trail, because it leads to a fascinating rock that oozes water; and the various Emerald Pools trails, which take you to a series of attractive little pools, where you just might see—or at least hear—some frogs. The only problem at the Emerald Pools is that kids (and adults, too) have to resist the strong urge to submerge their toes in the dark green water. Older youths—perhaps young teens—who are in good physical condition will enjoy hiking into the Narrows from the end of the 04 542877 Ch03.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 53
ESPECIALLY FOR KIDS 53
Kids Kidding Around Kids love the huge screen and dramatic photography in the Zion Canyon—Treasure of the Gods production at the Zion Canyon Theatre (p. 128)
Riverside Walk, where a hike is almost a swim, and you’re staring up from the bottom of a 1,000-foot ravine. However, the Narrows can be very hazardous, so everyone planning to hike it should discuss their plans with park rangers before setting out. See chapter 4, “Hikes & Other Outdoor Pursuits in Zion National Park,” for addi- tional hiking information. Park rangers also run special programs just for children. Kids up to 12 years old can join the Junior Rangers/Explorers, participate in a variety of hands-on activities, and earn certificates, pins, and 1 patches. Morning and afternoon sessions, each lasting 2 ⁄2 hours, take place daily from Memorial Day to Labor Day, with children meeting at the Nature Center in the South Campground. There’s a one-time fee of $2 per child, and the age range is strictly enforced. 05 542877 Ch04.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 54
4 Hikes & Other Outdoor Pursuits in Zion National Park
Zion offers a wide variety of hiking trails and opportunities, rang- ing from easy half-hour walks to grueling overnight hikes. Several free brochures on hiking trails are available at the visitor centers, and the Zion Natural History Association publishes several good booklets describing established trails and off-trail routes (p. 19). Hikers with a fear of heights should be especially careful when choosing trails—many include steep, dizzying drop-offs. The authors and other experienced hikers provide the ratings here, and these are entirely subjective. Guided hiking, rock climbing, and biking trips in the area outside the park are offered by several local companies, including Zion Adventure Company, 36 Lion Blvd. (P.O. Box 523), Springdale, UT 84767 (& 435/772-1001; www.zionadventures.com), Zion Rock and Mountain Guides, 1458 Zion Park Blvd. (P.O. Box 623), Springdale, UT 84767 (& 435/772-3303; www.zionrockguides. com), and in the same building, Springdale Cycle, 1458 Zion Park Blvd. (P.O. Box 501), Springdale, UT 84767 (& 800/776-2099 or 435/772-0575; www.springdalecycles.com). National companies offering guided hiking/biking trips in the area are discussed on p. 30. Shuttle service for backcountry hikers and bikers is available throughout the area from Zion Canyon Transportation (& 877/ 635-5993 or 435/635-5993; www.nps.gov/zion/trans.htm), and Springdale Narrows Shuttle (& 800/776-2099). Those who want to try to arrange rides with fellow hikers can make use of a bulletin board at the visitor center.
1 Day Hikes Hikers have the chance to see the park from two completely differ- ent perspectives—a high plateau hike affords a look down into the canyons, while a descent into the canyons provides spectacular views skyward. 05 542877 Ch04.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 55
DAY HIKES 55
See chapter 3 for more information on the different areas and highlights of the park. RT stands for round-trip in the listings in this guide. SHORTER HIKES Riverside Walk (with assistance) and Pa’rus Trail are the only trails that are wheelchair-accessible. Angels Landing Trail A popular though strenuous hike that is most certainly not for anyone with even a mild fear of heights, this trail climbs 1,488 feet to a summit that offers spectacular views into Zion Canyon. But be prepared: The final half mile follows a narrow, knife-edge trail along a steep ridge, where footing can be slippery even under the best of circumstances. After crossing the footbridge over the Virgin River, turn north through a riparian woodland of cottonwood, box elder, and tamarisk, above which Angels Landing beckons. The trail climbs to the mouth of Refrigerator Canyon around the west side of the monolith. Grot- tos and overhangs dot the red sandstone canyon walls. Shortly before reaching the head of the canyon, a series of 21 switchbacks have been built into a cleft in the wall; they are regarded as one of the engineering marvels of the park. At the top of the switchbacks, you begin the gradual ascent to Scout Lookout, the saddle behind Angels Landing from which you get spectacular views into Zion Canyon. Here, the West Rim Trail heads off to the left, while the Angels Landing Trail turns southeast and begins the final brutal climb along the spine of a razorlike ridge. From this point, many stretches have support chains to hold on to, though there are no guardrails on Angels Landing itself. The views are stupendous, with the Virgin River gently bending around three sides at the bot- tom of the canyon, the Great White Throne and Red Arch Moun- tain to the southeast, and the entrance to the Narrows beyond the Temple of Sinawava to the north. See map on p. 56. 5 miles RT. Difficult. Access: Grotto Picnic Area along Zion Canyon Scenic Dr. Canyon Overlook Trail Panoramic vistas are the lure on this self-guided trail that takes you to an overlook offering a magnificent view of lower Zion Canyon, the East and West temples, the Towers of the Virgin, and the Streaked Wall. The trail, which is sometimes slippery because of sand, begins with a series of uneven steps cut into the sandstone. There are long drop-offs into the narrow chasm of Pine Creek Canyon. The hike has an elevation gain of 163 feet. 05 542877 Ch04.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page 56
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Emerald Pools Trail System Kids This can be either an easy 1-hour walk if you just visit the Lower Pool or a moderately strenuous 2-hour hike if you decide to continue to the other pools.
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