Frommer's Zion & Bryce Canyon National Parks, 4Th Edition
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01 542877 FM.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page i Zion & Bryce Canyon National Parks 4th Edition by Don & Barbara Laine Here’s what critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.” —Booklist “Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine 01 542877 FM.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page ii Published by: WILEY PUBLISHING,INC. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744 Copyright © 2004 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as per- mitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for permis- sion should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317/572-3447, fax 317/572-4447, E-Mail: [email protected]. Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trade- marks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN 0-7645-4287-7 Editor: Liz Albertson Production Editor: Donna Wright Photo Editor: Richard Fox Cartographer: Elizabeth Puhl Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some con- tent that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 54321 01 542877 FM.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page iii Contents List of Maps vi 1 Introducing Zion & Bryce Canyon National Parks 1 1 Butch Cassidy Slept Here . .4 The Best of Zion & Bryce Canyon National Parks . .4 2 A Look at Zion . .13 3 A Look at Bryce Canyon . .15 Planning Your Trip to Zion & Bryce Canyon 2 National Parks 18 1 Getting Started: Information & Reservations . .19 2 When to Go . .20 A British Invasion . .22 3 What Should I Take? . .24 Permits You Can Obtain in Advance . .24 4 Getting There . .25 5 Exploring the Parks by RV or “Car-Camping” . .28 Renting an RV for Your National Park Trek . .29 6 Package & Adventure Tours . .30 7 Tips for Travelers with Disabilities . .32 8 Tips for Travelers with Pets . .33 9 Tips for Travelers with Children . .34 10 Protecting Your Health & Safety . .34 11 Protecting the Environment . .35 3 Exploring Zion National Park 36 1 Essentials . .36 Where to Find Restrooms in Zion . .37 Fast Facts: Zion National Park . .41 2 Tips from a Park Ranger . .43 3 The Highlights . .44 Wildlife Viewing & Bird Watching . .46 01 542877 FM.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page iv 4 How to See the Park in 1 or 2 Days . .47 5 Seeing the Park by Car & Shuttle . .48 6 Historic & Man-Made Attractions . .50 7 Ranger & Educational Programs . .51 8 Guided Tours . .52 9 Especially for Kids . .52 Hikes & Other Outdoor Pursuits in Zion 4 National Park 54 1 Day Hikes . .54 2 Exploring the Backcountry . .66 The Narrows: Safety First . .71 3 Biking & Mountain Biking . .72 4 Other Sports & Activities . .73 5 Where to Stay, Camp & Eat in Zion 75 1 Where to Stay . .75 2 Camping . .82 3 Amenities for Each Campground, Zion National Park . .84 Where to Eat . .85 6 Exploring Bryce Canyon National Park 89 1 Essentials . .89 Fast Facts: Bryce Canyon National Park . .92 2 Tips from a Park Ranger . .93 Wildlife Viewing . .94 3 The Highlights . .96 Restrooms at Bryce Canyon . .97 4 How to See the Park in 1 or 2 Days . .98 5 Seeing the Park by Car . .98 6 Seeing the Park by Shuttle . .100 7 Historic & Man-Made Attractions . .100 8 Ranger Programs . .101 9 Guided Tours . .101 10 Especially for Kids . .102 01 542877 FM.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page v Hikes & Other Outdoor Pursuits in Bryce 7 Canyon National Park 103 1 Day Hikes . .103 Hoodoo Photography: The “Light” Stuff . .108 2 Exploring the Backcountry . .109 3 Other Summer Sports & Activities . .112 4 Winter Activities . .113 8 Where to Stay, Camp & Eat in Bryce Canyon 115 1 Where to Stay . .115 2 Camping . .120 Amenities for Each Campground Near & In Bryce Canyon National Park . .121 3 Where to Eat . .124 9 Nearby Things to See & Do 127 1 Gateway Towns . .127 How’s This for Gun Control? . .128 2 Dixie National Forest . .129 3 Cedar Breaks National Monument . .132 4 Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument . .135 5 Kodachrome Basin State Park . .141 6 Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park . .142 7 Escalante State Park . .144 Rock or Wood—What Is This Stuff? . .145 8 Snow Canyon State Park . .146 A Nature Guide to Zion & Bryce Canyon 10 National Parks 149 1 Zion & Bryce Canyon National Parks Today . .149 2 The Landscape . .150 How Nature Paints the Parks . .152 3 The Flora . .153 4 The Fauna . .160 5 The Ecosystem . .175 01 542877 FM.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page vi Index 174 General Index . .174 Accommodations Index . .180 Restaurant Index . .180 List of Maps Southwestern Utah 3 Bryce Canyon National Park Southern Utah Driving Times 90 & Distances 27 Central Canyon 105 Zion National Park 38 Southern Canyon 107 Zion Canyon 56 Gateways to Zion & Bryce Kolob Canyons Area 59 Canyon 117 Kolob Plateau Area 67 Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument 137 Gateways to Zion & Bryce Canyon 77 01 542877 FM.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page vii ABOUT THE AUTHORS Residents of northern New Mexico for more than 30 years, Don and Bar- bara Laine have traveled extensively throughout the Rocky Mountains and the Southwest. They are the authors of Frommer’s Colorado, Frommer’s Rocky Mountain National Park, Frommer’s Yosemite & Sequoia/Kings Canyon National Parks, and Frommer’s Utah; are the lead authors of Frommer’s National Parks of the American West; and have contributed to Frommer’s Texas and Frommer’s USA. The Laines have also written Little-Known Southwest and New Mexico & Arizona State Parks (both for The Mountaineers Books). AN INVITATION TO THE READER In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s Zion & Bryce Canyon National Parks, 4th Edition Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744 AN ADDITIONAL NOTE Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time— and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets. 01 542877 FM.qxd 1/22/04 2:33 PM Page viii FROMMER’S STAR RATINGS,ICONS & ABBREVIATIONS Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists. Throughout the book, look for: Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun Kids Best bets for kids—advice for the whole family Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money Tips Insider tips—some great ways to save time and money Value Great values—where to get the best deals The following abbreviations are used for credit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa DC Diners Club MC MasterCard FROMMERS.COM Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com for travel information on more than 3,000 destina- tions. With features updated regularly, we give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At Frommers.com, you’ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car rentals—and you can even book travel online through our travel booking partners.