Dungeness National Wildlife Refuge “In Every Outthrust Headland, in Every Curving Beach, in Every Grain of Sand There Is a Story of the Earth.” — Rachel Carson

U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service Dungeness National Wildlife Refuge “In every outthrust headland, in every curving beach, in every grain of sand there is a story of the earth.” — Rachel Carson

Heerman’s gulls ©Dow Lambert Introduction Activities Dungeness NWR is open to the public year-round. Hiking, wildlife At Dungeness National Wildlife watching, and photography are Refuge one of the world’s longest popular activities on the Refuge. natural sand spits softens the rough Some areas are closed seasonally sea waves to form a tranquil bay, or permanently to protect sensitive fertile tideflats, and beaches of sand species. and gravel. Here wildlife find food, a place to rest, and protection from Location West of Sequim on Highway 101, winds and pounding surf. Recognizing turn north on Kitchen-Dick Road. the area’s importance to wildlife, Continue 3 miles to Dungeness President Woodrow Wilson declared County Recreation Area. Pass The “Blue Goose,” Dungeness Spit and its surrounding through the recreation area to reach designed by J.N. waters a National Wildlife Refuge the Refuge parking lot. “Ding” Darling, in 1915. has become the symbol of the Dungeness is one of over 500 refuges National Wildlife Dungeness NWR Dungeness Spit Refuge System. in the National Wildlife Refuge WASHINGTON System. A network of lands set aside Dungeness specifically for wildlife, the System is Rec. Area Lotzgesell our living heritage, conserving wildlife Road and habitat for generations to come. Kitchen- Dick Rd. SEQUIM To Port Angeles 101

0 1 2 3 MILES To Port Townsend

Dungeness Spit ©Long Bach Nguyen History of the Refuge The Market Many people depended on the rich Hunting Era bounty of fish, shellfish, and waterfowl in the waters surrounding Dungeness Spit for their livelihood. In the late 1800s and early 1900s, this was a prime area for waterfowl hunters who supplied restaurants in Seattle. A new invention — the power boat — allowed these “market” hunters easy access to flocks of brant that wintered in the area. S’Klallam people digging clams. ©North Olympic Library, Bert Kellogg Collection Ornithologist Walter Taylor reported, “During the months of November and December, 1913, Traditional For thousands of years S’Klallam and January and February, 1914, S’Klallam Use people visited Dungeness Spit to no less than 3,000 black brants gather shellfish, hunt waterfowl, are reported to have been killed and bury their dead. In 1872 the in the vicinity of Smith Island S’Klallam were forced from their [20 miles from Dungeness] by villages along the Dungeness River hunters who pursued them by by Euro-American homesteaders the use of power boats, most of and spent a difficult year living on the birds being killed in the kelp the Spit. In 1875 they bought 222 beds offshore.” acres to establish the settlement of Jamestown east of the Dungeness Public concern over rapidly dwindling River. The tribe secured Federal Crabbing on numbers of geese and ducks led to the recognition in 1980. Dungeness Bay, establishment of Dungeness NWR ca. 1900. in 1915. A Beacon for On December 14, 1857 the New ©North Olympic Library, Mariners Dungeness Lighthouse became the Bert Kellogg Collection first operational light in the Salish Sea. The lighthouse was 100 feet tall at first, but was lowered to 63 feet in 1927 because of cracking in the tower. Originally equipped with an oil-burning light and a bell, these signals were progressively replaced with newer technology and power sources. The lighthouse was placed on the National Register The New of Historic Places in Dungeness 1993. Today visitors may hike to the Lighthouse lighthouse and enjoy breathtaking USFWS views from the signal tower. Habitats of the Refuge Tideflats Nutrient-rich sediments accumulate The Power of About 10,000 years ago, melting on the lee side of Dungeness and Erosion glaciers left thick deposits of sand and Graveyard Spits. Although the mud gravel along this shoreline. As waves appears lifeless, millions of worms, carved steep bluffs from these clams, and crustaceans burrow deposits the material was gradually Western sandpiper beneath its surface. When low tide pushed north and east from the ©Dow Lambert exposes the mud, shorebirds such as headland, creating Dungeness Spit. dunlin, sandpipers, and whimbrels Weather and waves continue to erode eagerly probe for this hidden bounty. away the bluffs feeding the five-mile- long Spit, causing it to lengthen about Dungeness Harbor and Bay 13 feet (4.4m) per year. Protected from heavy surf and fertilized by nutrients washing down Dungeness Spit and the bluffs from the land above, Dungeness Bay overlooking it create a variety of and Harbor teem with fish and habitats that are home to 244 bird invertebrates. Eelgrass beds in the species, 18 types of land mammals, Bay provide food for brant, and a and 11 marine mammal species. nursery for young Dungeness crab, flounder, salmon, steelhead, and Refuge Diversity Forest and Bluffs cutthroat trout. In winter, flocks of On the bluffs above the Spit, waterfowl, loons, and grebes find food coniferous forests host black-tailed and shelter here. deer, songbirds, and raptors. Tree snags are convenient lookouts for Climate Change bald eagles. The bluffs are home to The low lying habitats of pigeon guillemots that burrow into Dungeness are at risk of the sandy soil and glaucous-winged significant impacts as the gulls that roost on the outcroppings. earth warms and climates shift. Higher temperatures Dungeness and Graveyard Spits melt polar ice caps, causing A line of driftwood above the high- American wigeon sea levels to rise which is water mark stabilizes the Spit and ©Dow Lambert of particular concern for this delicate Bald eagle environment. Peter Davis/USFWS provides shelter for shorebirds, as well as perches where peregrine falcons scan for prey. On the ocean side of the Spit, dunlin, sanderlings, and black-bellied plovers probe the sandy beaches for invertebrates. Harbor seals rest and nurse their pups at the tip of Dungeness Spit. The unique habitat of Graveyard Spit is protected as a Research Dungeness Spit and bluffs Natural Area. ©Dow Lambert Semipalmated plovers ©Dow Lambert

Olympic Mountains as seen from the Dungeness Spit. Sue Mayo/USFWS Strait of Juan de Fuca New Dungeness Light Station National Historic Site Open Year-Round Protection (5 miles from parking lot) Island NWR Lotzgesell Rd. . d s R

Kitchen- y a

Dick Rd. C

To Port Angeles S CARLSBORG equim Ba To Port SEQUIM Townsend Boat Landing Zone y 0 1 2 3 4 5 Miles Open year-round by BLYN reservation only*

Closed to All Strait of Juan de Fuca Public Access

Dungeness Spit Open Year-Round Boat Access Only (no wake zone) Dungeness Open May 15 to Sept. 30 Bay

N Graveyard Spit

Dungeness Harbor 0 1/2 1 MILE Cline Spit

Drive Marine Sequim - Foot Access Only Dungeness Open May 15 to Sept. 30 Way

Upland Forest Cays Rd. Off-trail and Rd. Dungeness Bluff Closed to All Public Access Recreation Lotzgesell Rd. River

America Area

of (Clallam County) Dungeness oice

V Lamar Rd. Lotzgesell Rd.

Kitchen-Dick Road Legend Clamming, Public Boat Crabbing N Launch E Hiking Saltwater Parking Dungeness National Wildlife Refuge protects critical Wildlife R Fishing p Observation/ habitat for wildlife and provides viewing opportunities for Primitive Trail people. To ensure that wildlife continue to have a place Photography n Restrooms Main Trail to rest and feed, some recreational activities are allowed Boating only in selected areas during certain times of the year. O (no wake zone) Refuge Boundary Areas of the Refuge are closed to provide sanctuary for Boat Landing Zone* wildlife during critical feeding, resting, and nesting times. Beach Use *By reservation; call 360/457 8451 Wildlife Highlights Brant Brant are small (about 3 pounds) dark-colored geese that rarely stray Waterfowl Dungeness National Wildlife Refuge far from salt water. Special glands lies on the Pacific Flyway, a migration remove salt from the seawater they route travelled by birds between their drink. Eelgrass, a plant nesting and wintering grounds. that grows in shallow The Refuge’s combination of mild bays, is their favorite maritime climate, shelter from food. About 1,500 brant storms, and abundant food also makes winter at Dungeness it an ideal winter home for waterfowl. NWR from October to About 8,000 ducks and 1,500 brant February. In March they spend the winter here. are joined by brant migrating north along Early in the fall, green- the coast with numbers Brant winged teal and mallards ©Dow Lambert peaking at around 4,000 in late April. feed on aquatic plants By mid-May they have left for their and invertebrates in the nesting grounds — the coastal tundra shallow water of of Alaska, Canada, and Siberia. Dungeness Harbor. American wigeon visit In the fall the entire Pacific Graveyard Spit at low population of brant (about 140,000 Harlequin ducks tide to graze on sea lettuce and birds) funnels into Izembek National are one of several Wildlife Refuge in Alaska. For a few sea ducks seen on eelgrass. When winter rains begin, the shoreline of these ducks visit fields and wetlands weeks they fatten on eelgrass. Then Dungeness Spit. on the mainland to feed on grain and most fly 1800 miles (3000 km) to Baja ©Dow Lambert tender grasses, returning to the California — the longest nonstop Refuge at night to roost. migration of any goose. Smaller groups stop further north, including Diving ducks, such as bufflehead, at Dungeness NWR. surf scoters, red-breasted mergansers, long-tailed ducks, common goldeneye, Once tens of thousands of brant and harlequin ducks hunt for mollusks, wintered in the Salish Sea, but today crustaceans, and small fish in the only 8,000 do so. Their numbers shallow waters of Dungeness Harbor are reduced by human disturbance, and Bay. When resting, they “raft up” coastal development, and loss of in large flocks offshore. In spring the eelgrass beds. courtship antics of bufflehead and scoters enliven the waters of Bufflehead and A pair of green- Dungeness Harbor. other ducks use winged teal dabble Dungeness Bay for tiny animals and Harbor as safe in wet mud. shelter in winter. ©Francis Caldwell Peter Davis/USFWS Shorebirds In spring up to 25,000 shorebirds stop Other Birds Summer birds nesting on the at Dungeness NWR to feed and rest Refuge include seabirds such as on their migration northward. For double-crested cormorants, black a brief interval they stop to feed on oystercatchers, glaucous-winged invertebrates in Dungeness’ tideflats gulls, and pigeon then continue their journey. guillemots. Rhinoceros auklets forage in the Unlike the fleeting burst of spring, deeper waters of the fall migration begins early and Dungeness Harbor and lasts several months. The first fall the Strait of Juan de Fuca. migrants appear in late July. About Look for red-throated 12,000 shorebirds loons, horned grebes, stop here in late In spring, pigeon pelagic cormorants, and gulls in the guillemots nest in summer and fall. Refuge bluffs. winter. Bald eagles are frequent Most continue ©Dow Lambert visitors to the Refuge and roost in south, as far as the trees overlooking the bluffs. Peru. A few Peregrine falcons hunt waterfowl and thousand dunlin, shorebirds from driftwood perches on sanderlings, and the Spit. Many species of songbirds, black-bellied such as Wilson’s warblers, Pacific- plovers will spend slope flycatcher, and rufous the winter here. hummingbirds, can be seen and heard in the woods during spring Whimbrel ©Dow Lambert Shorebirds have a wide variety of and summer months. foraging strategies so many species can feed in the same area without Mammals Harbor seals haul out on the tip of competition. Least sandpipers and Dungeness Spit and pup here in July. black-bellied plovers pick invertebrates Orca and gray whales are from the surface with their short bills, sometimes seen from the while long-billed whimbrels and Strait-side of the Spit. dowitchers probe for worms, clams, Columbia black-tailed and crustaceans buried deep in the deer, common in forests mud. Turnstones, true to their name, of the Refuge, are drawn flip over pebbles and flotsam with to the salty shoreline at their stout wedge-shaped bills to find dawn and dusk. small animals hidden underneath. Black oystercatcher The eelgrass beds in ©Dow Lambert Harbor seal pup Dungeness Bay and Peter Davis/USFWS Harbor are a nursery for young salmon, steelhead, and cutthroat trout that began their lives in the Fish and Dungeness River. Eelgrass beds Invertebrates are also home to the area’s popular namesake Dungeness crab. Common saltwater fish found on the Refuge include starry flounder, English sole, sculpins, and surf smelt.

Dungeness Harbor’s tideflats are rich in clams: butter, Washington, softshell, and horse clams are some common varieties. Wildlife Viewing Tips ■ Plan your visit according to the season and time of day. Mornings and Watching wildlife can be a rewarding early evenings are generally best for endeavor. Here are some basic seeing wildlife. Fall and winter are suggestions for successful viewing. the best times for seeing waterfowl. Shorebirds are most abundant during ■ Move quietly and maintain distance spring and fall migrations. between yourself and the animals. Although animals often disappear Birders when you arrive, they may return USFWS shortly if you are quiet and still.

■ For the best viewing of brant and shorebirds, walk 2-3 miles out on the ocean-side of the Spit and watch for birds on the bay-side, using driftwood as a blind. Be sure to stay out of closed areas.

■ Use binoculars or spotting scopes to clearly view wildlife from a distance. ■ Check your tide book. During low tide, shorebirds spread out on the ■ Bring a field guidebook to help you tideflats to feed and may be difficult identify various species, what habitats to see. At high tide they gather on they prefer, when they are active, and the shorelines in large numbers. what they eat. Conversely, brant feed on ingoing and outgoing tides, but roost on the shoreline during low tide.

Sanderlings. ©Dow Lambert Guide to Refuge Activities Beach Use Recreational beach use is allowed in and Regulations the green zone year-round. Jogging is allowed only on the beach adjacent to the bluffs west of Dungeness Spit. Hours The Refuge is open daily from sunrise Only hiking, wildlife observation and to sunset. photography, and fishing are allowed in the yellow zone. Entrance Fees $3.00 daily entrance fee covers up to 4 adults (16 and older). Children under Closed Areas Graveyard Spit, portions of Dungeness 16 enter free. Refuge Annual Pass, (Year-Round) Spit, a 100-yard buffer zone around these Federal Recreational Lands Pass, Senior areas, and all bluff areas are closed to or Golden Age Pass, Access or Golden public entry. Access Pass, Military Pass, Volunteer Pass, and a Federal Duck Stamp also Prohibited To minimize disturbance to wildlife, admit family or group (up to 4 adults). Activities some uses are not allowed including, but not limited to: jet skiing and wind- Hiking Trails An easy 1/2 mile trail takes visitors surfing on Refuge waters, pets, hunting, through the forest to an overlook on bicycling, kite flying, flying machines, the bluff above Dungeness Spit. The ball-playing, Frisbees, fires, camping, trail continues down a steep hill to the and disturbing or removing any Spit and becomes a 4.5 mile beach walk resources from the Refuge (except for to the lighthouse (10 miles round trip). fish and shellfish during designated Please stay on designated trails (main seasons). or primitive trail) as the upland forest is otherwise closed to public entry to Marine Mammals Harbor seals and their pups rest on protect wildlife. The bluff areas are Refuge shores and should not be unstable and extremely hazardous. approached or disturbed. They are They are closed to the public. protected by the federal Marine Mammal Protection Act. Boating From May 15 to September 30, boating (no wake) is allowed up to the 100-yard Camping No camping is allowed on the Refuge. buffer. Refuge waters are closed to For information on camping call the boating from October 1 to May 14. Dungeness Recreation Area, 360/683 5847.

Boating Access Public boat launches are located off- Lighthouse Tours Daily tours of the historic New Dungeness Refuge on Cline Spit and the Dungeness Lighthouse are offered from 9 am to 5 Landing which can be accessed from pm by volunteers of the New Dungeness Marine Drive. Boats may land only at Light Station Association (winter hours the designated landing site directly south may vary). of the New Dungeness Lighthouse from 9 am to 5 pm (winter hours may vary). Accessibility Visitors should examine their own abilities Advance reservations required; call and limitations before visiting the Refuge. 360/457-8451. Consult tides for hiking conditions. Contact the Refuge office for suggestions Fishing and The Strait side of Dungeness Spit is open on using the area safely. Shellfishing to saltwater fishing year-round, except for the area beyond the lighthouse. Tidelands Volunteer Dungeness Refuge has an active in Dungeness Bay and Harbor, excluding Program program of volunteers helping with public closed areas shown on the Refuge maps, information, education, maintenance, are open to shellfishing May 15 to Sept. and wildlife protection. If you would 30. Access east and west of Graveyard Spit is by boat only. Washington State like to become involved, call the fishing regulations and health closures Refuge office. apply. All oysters are privately owned and may not be harvested. The New Dungeness Lighthouse with Mt. Baker in the background. ©Dow Lambert Dungeness National Wildlife Refuge 715 Holgerson Road Sequim, Washington 98362 360/457 8451 http://www.fws.gov/washingtonmaritime/dungeness/ Washington Relay Service TTY 1 800/833 6388 Voice 1 800/833 6384 Telebraille 1 800/833 6385 U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service http://www.fws.gov Refuge Information 1 800/344 WILD July 2014