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Keragaman Kebaya Pengantin Gaya Solo (Studi Deskriptif Mengenai Makna Kebaya Gaya Solo Dalam Prosesi Pernikahan Di Surabaya)

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Keragaman Kebaya Pengantin Gaya Solo (Studi Deskriptif Mengenai Makna Kebaya Gaya Solo Dalam Prosesi Pernikahan Di Surabaya) Keragaman Kebaya Pengantin Gaya Solo (Studi Deskriptif mengenai Makna Kebaya Gaya Solo Dalam Prosesi Pernikahan di Surabaya) QONITA NABILA [email protected] Departemen Antropologi, FISIP, Universitas Airlangga Abstrak Salah satu siklus yang dialami oleh tiap manusia adalah pernikahan. Pernikahan merupakan salah satu proses peralihan penting yang dimulai dari tingkat hidup remaja ke tingkat hidup berkeluarga. Pada tahap pernikahan ini masyarakat di Jawa memiliki beberapa ritual adat yang harus dilaksanakan guna untuk mensyukuri apa yang telah terjadi selama proses fase kehidupan tersebut. Pelaksanaan ritual adat pernikahan sesuai apa yang sudah diberlakukan secara turun-temurun. Dalam pelaksanaan ritual adat pernikahan terdapat unsur-unsur yang mendukung keberlangsungan prosesi ini, salah satunya ialah kebaya. Kebaya memiliki peran selama prosesi pernikahan adat Jawa. Peran tersebut terlihat ketika calon pengantin perempuan menggunakan busana kebaya selama prosesi pernikahan tersebut. Dalam penelitian ini menggunakan metode deskriptif kualitatif untuk memperoleh data mengenai fenomena keragaman kebaya pengantin gaya Solo di kota Surabaya. Hasil data yang didapatkan bahwa keragaman kebaya pengantin gaya Solo yang digunakan selama proses pernikahan memiliki dua konsep, yaitu kebaya tradisional dan kebaya modifikasi. Kedua konsep kebaya yang berkembang tersebut dapat diketahui dengan klasifikasi warna, bahan, dan bentuk. Kata kunci : pernikahan, keragaman kebaya Abstract One phase of human experience is a marriage. In this phase, Indonesian societies celebrate by doing some rituals. It aims to be grateful by what happens in those process of the wedding. For Javanese people, wedding ritual is held as common custom in many years ago. One of the elements that support in Javanese traditional wedding is Kebaya. Kebaya has a role during the procession of Javanese traditional wedding. It shows when the bride wears Kebaya during the procession. This research uses qualitative method and descriptive method to attain and process the data. The result describes that Kebaya in Solo style has its own meaning. It is known by the form, colour, material and design. It shows that Kebaya has two shapes, there are Kutubaru and Kartini. Those two concepts are known by their colour material, form, and pattern. Key words: Javanese traditional wedding, the diversity of Kebaya PENDAHULUAN bagi negara ini. Masing-masing suku bangsa memiliki wujud budaya yang Keragaman suku bangsa di berupa hasil karya. Salah satunya Indonesia sudah menjadi identitas AntroUnairdotNet, Vol.VI/No.2/Juli 2017, hal 167 kebaya yang muncul di kalangan berlangsung, yaitu kebaya. Kebaya masyarakat Surabaya dalam merupakan pakaian tradisional melaksanakan pernikahan. wanita Indonesia yang dibuat dengan kreatifitas seni yang tinggi dari Upacara adat perkawinan bahan-bahan khusus menjadi busana merupakan serangkaian kegiatan dengan bentuk yang unik. Kebaya tradisional turun-temurun yang tidak hanya sekedar untuk menarik memiliki maksud dan tujuan agar perhatian orang dalam upacara perkawinan akan selamat sejahtera pernikahan, tetapi juga untuk serta mendatangkan kebahagiaan di menciptakan suasana resmi dan kemudian hari (Wiyasa, 1990:1). hikmat, sehingga perwujudannya Tiap-tiap manusia mengalami siklus tidak hanya mewah dan meriah, pernikahan, yang mana harus lambang yang diungkapkan dirayakan dalam bentuk upacara merupakan cerminan dari corak ataupun pesta. Pelaksanaan upacara kebudayaan dalam arti nilai-nilai pernikahan membutuhkan persiapan pada masyarakat. Seperti halnya yang mendetail, sehingga acara yang dikatakan oleh pernikahan dapat berlangsung Koentjaraningrat (2002) bahwa dengan khidmat. Dewasa ini upacara deskripsi-deskripsi diutamakan untuk adat dalam sebuah perkawinan sering memperhatikan bentuk, teknik dilaksanakan oleh kalangan pembuatan, motif perhiasan, dan masyarakat kota. Hampir tiap-tiap gaya dari benda-benda kesenian. orang tua menikahkan anaknya Kebaya yang digunakan pada saat dengan upacara adat. Di Jawa pernikahan memiliki ragam mulai upacara pernikahan terdapat dari bentuk, warna, bahan, dan corak. beberapa tahapan, mulai dari nontoni, lamaran, peningset, serahan, Busana kebaya yang digunakan pingitan, tarub, siraman, panggih dalam acara pernikahan terinspirasi manten, dan acara resepsi. Di kota dari para bangsawan dan raja Surabaya upacara pernikahan adat Keraton Kasunanan Surakarta serta Jawa masih banyak digunakan. Istana Mangkunegaran, Solo, Jawa Terutama untuk busana yang akan Tengah. Dahulu, dalam acara digunakan ketika prosesi pernikahan Jawa gaya Solo pada AntroUnairdotNet, Vol.VI/No.2/Juli 2017, hal 168 busana dan tata riasnya masih kota Surabaya. Pada penelitian ini sederhana. Kebaya dengan bahan peneliti meneliti mengenai pakaian yang lebih baik seperti keragaman kebaya pengantin gaya beludru, berbagai jenis kain sutera Solo yang digunakan selama prosesi dan tenunan halus lainnya mulai pernikahan adat Jawa di kota muncul di lingkungan masyarakat. Surabaya. Dan penelitian Penggunaan kebaya digunakan dilaksanakan di Surabaya yang mana menurut kelas sosialnya (Yuana, masyarakatnya sudah tergolong 2007). Bagi kalangan bangsawan dan modern dan masih mau priyayi, jenis kebaya mereka dihiasi menggunakan busana kebaya gaya dengan renda-renda halus. Orang- Solo dalam pernikahan. orang kerajaan mengenakan kebaya METODE berbahan sutra dan beludru mewah dijahit dengan hiasan benang-benang penelitian ini penulis emas dan perak. Ditambah dengan menggunakan metode deskriptif aksesoris bros dengan model dengan pendekatan kualitatif. Bagi beranekaragam. Beda lagi dengan Moleong (2004) dengan rakyat biasa, kebanyakan kebaya menggunakan metode tersebut akan yang mereka gunakan terbuat dari didapatkan hasil ilmiah yang didasari bahan katun saja. Kebaya berbahan dengan fenomena yang sedang katun ini biasanya digunakan untuk terjadi. Dan dapat menggambarkan kegiatan sehari-hari maupun acara- fenomena tersebut dengan jelas dan acara resmi atau pesta. Sedikit sekali mendalam sesuai dengan fenomena. bagi mereka yang memiliki kebaya Pendekatan ini diharapkan mampu dengan bahan kain brokat atau sutra. menghasilkan uraian yang mendalam Kebaya yang digunakan untuk mengenai ucapan, tulisan, atau pelaksanaan pernikahan khususnya perilaku yang dapat diamati dari adat Jawa terus mengalami suatu individu, kelompok, perkembangan sesuai trendnya. Hal masyarakat atau organisasi tertentu. ini dilakukan agar kebaya yang Metode ini akan menggambarkan tergolong busana tradisional ini dapat ragam kebaya yang ada di kalangan bertahan di kalangan masyarakat masyarakat khususnya dalam rangka AntroUnairdotNet, Vol.VI/No.2/Juli 2017, hal 169 pernikahan. Khususnya tempat simbol. Misalnya saja kebaya persewaan busana adat pernikahan, pengantin gaya Solo yang memiliki tempat rias pengantin, dan pemangku warna dan bentuk yang beragam hajat yang melakukan pernikahan merupakan simbol bagi yang adat Jawa gaya Solo di Surabaya. menggunakannya. Kemudian ada Dalam menentukan lokasi ini rujukan yang merupakan suatu benda berdasarkan fenomena masyarakat yang menjadikan rujukan simbol. kota Surabaya masih banyak yang Rujukan ini dapat berupa apapun menggunakan busana kebaya Jawa yang dapat dipikirkan dalam gaya Solo. Hal ini terbukti dengan pengalaman manusia. Contohnya, banyaknya persewaan busana yang kita dapat menunjuk pohon atau menyediakan koleksi busana bintang sebagai simbol, akan tetapi pengantin kebaya gaya Solo yaitu kita juga dapat menunjuk makhluk- Citra Anda, Rias Ari, Adjie makhluk mistis yang belum pernah Wedding, Citra Retna, Lelly dialami sebelumnya. Kita juga dapat Chandra, Gemini, Griya Kencana merujuk pada simbol-simbol lain dan Ayu, Hera, Kinara, Raddin, dan menjadikannya rujukan ke dalam House of Andini. Tempat persewaan rantai makna yang tidak ada hentinya tersebut dipilih karena sudah (Spradley, 1997:121-122). Unsur memiliki ‘jam terbang’ yang banyak. yang terakhir yaitu ada keterkaitan Dan tempat persewaan diatas antara simbol dengan sebuah memiliki koleksi busana pengantin rujukan. Kebaya yang merupakan gaya Solo. simbol memiliki keterkaitan dengan pernikahan. Pada penelitian ini Dalam penelitian ini, peneliti simbol yang terlihat ialah adanya menggunakan teori dari Spradley tahapan-tahapan yang panjang dalam (1997) mengenai Realisonal Simbol. melaksanakan prosesi pernikahan Simbol merupakan apapun yang Jawa yang didukung dengan busana manusia rasakan atau yang dialami yang dipakai selama proses itu oleh manusia, mulai dari adanya berlangsung, khususnya kebaya warna, suara, objek, tindakan, dan pengantin Solo. Dalam teori berbagai kegiatan dan situasi sosial relasional simbol terdapat 4 prinsip, yang kompleks, hal ini dapat menjadi AntroUnairdotNet, Vol.VI/No.2/Juli 2017, hal 170 yaitu prinsip relasional, prinsip prosesi midodareni, akad nikah, kegunaan, prinsip kemiripan, dan panggih manten, dan resepsi. Dalam prinsip kontras. Akan tetapi penulis prosesi pernikahan adat Jawa hanya menggunakan beberapa tersebut banyak yang harus prinsip yang berkaitan dengan dipersiapkan jauh-jauh hari. Karena pembahasan, yaitu kegunaan, unsur-unsur yang digunakan pada kemiripan, dan relasional. saat prosesi pernikahan tersebut banyak. Mulai dari tempat prosesi PEMBAHASAN pernikahan, waktu pelaksanaan Surabaya dihuni oleh prosesi pernikahan, benda-benda atau berbagai macam suku dari berbagai alat-alat prosesi pernikahan, dan daerah. Masing-masing tentunya orang-orang yang berperan selama memiliki kebudayaan sendiri. prosesi tersebut. Pernikahan adat Misalnya dalam melakukan prosesi Jawa
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