B31 to Carriacou Imray-Iolaire CHARTS FOR THE EASTERN ABOUT THIS CHART Compiled by DM Street Jnr This chart has been compiled by D M Street Jr using official sources and additional information acquired during over 50 years of cruising, racing, exploring, chartering and charting the Eastern Caribbean on his 46’ engineless yawl Iolaire built 1905. He is the author of many yachting books and articles first of which was ‘ Going South’ Yachting Sept 1964. His first guide Cruising Guide to the Lesser is regarded ‘the book that opened the Caribbean to the cruising yachtsman and made bare boat chartering possible’. It is worth reading for its nostalgic view of the Caribbean in the IMPORTANT ‘50s and ‘60s. Through the years this guide has been expanded to cover all the eastern For the latest chart Caribbean, from the western end of Puerto Rico east and south thru the islands to Trinidad, then westwards along the Venezuelan coast and off shore islands to Aruba. corrections visit Use Street’s Guides for interisland sailing directions, harbour piloting directions and www.imray.com interesting anecdotes of people, places and history. Street’s Guides are the only guides that cover all the anchorages in the Eastern Caribbean. Patience Wales, editor of Sail , once said, ‘Circle in red all the anchorages that Street describes that are not in the The information shown on charts is other guides and you will have a quiet anchorage’. liable to constant change; Imray Street has also been in the marine insurance business placing insurance for yachts of ensures that every chart is correct to all sizes and ages sailing in all areas of the world with Lloyds since 1966. Visit the printing date shown below. www.street-iolaire.com. Email [email protected]. The author and publishers believe that this chart is the most accurate and up to date Corrections received after this date available of the area it covers. It can, however, only remain so if mariners will notify may be downloaded from the publishers of any inaccuracy or need for correction of which they may be aware. www.imray.com as Correction The pilotage information on this chart is taken from Street’s to Trinidad to Notices. These are regularly updated Imray Laurie Norie & Wilson Ltd www.imray.com and the website should be checked. Internet sales for current and out of print editions iuniverse.com, alibris.co.uk and Amazon.com Smartphone users can Five popular sailing videos made in the late 80s early 90s featuring DM Street Jr are link directly to now available at www.thesailingchannel.tv. One of them concerns cruising the the Corrections Notice , the most popular one which was highly praised by Tom Cunliffe in his for this chart review in Sail, and Herb Mc Cormack in Crusing World is Transatlantic with Street , the story of Iolaire’s 1985 Transatlantic via Vigo, Madeira, Canaries, Cape Verdes. using the QR code. TheSailingChannel.TV offers all five videos in one digital package, The Complete Street, online at https://vimeo.com/ondemand/thecompletestreet

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Edition date: 2015 Charlestown Bay Corrected to October 2015

Mayreau Tobago Cays

Union I. Clifton Harbour

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1 most yachtsmen expect, two tides a day) but Pilotage notes by from Antigua north, the tides are diurnal, 1 one tide a day, though in actuality if you DM Street, Jnr Hr ZENITH check very accurate tidal gauges you will T EAST IDE discover two tides, one major, a second one Use in conjunction with so small to be barely noticeable, thus the tide Street’s Guide to the 1 tables refer to it as diurnal. Puerto Rico and Eastern Caribbean - Hr the Virgin Islands area is further complicated

W by the fact that on the south side of Puerto E

Martinique to Trinidad E D

I S

T T Rico and St Thomas, there is one tide a day,

Iolaire 2013

T

T S

I while on the north side of both islands there D

E E

W are two tides a day; east coast of Puerto Rico, B31 - Bequia to Vieques and Culebra have two tides a day. 1 Hr At one part of the year, the highest tide is Carriacou during the day, at other times of the year the highest tide is during the night. Schomberg, EAST TIDE GENERAL CAUTIONS the Danish naturalist, explained that during NADIR 1 the equinox, September and October, March Yachtsmen navigating this area are Hr and April, the evening tide is the highest, the reminded that whilst much of the region has rest of the year the daytime tide is the been resurveyed in the last 50 years much of highest. the data is of 19th-century origin. Since then, In periods of spring tides especially if the topography above and below the water may trades have not been blowing hard, the well have become altered by natural causes It is extremely important to allow for the set flood tide will overcome the Equatorial such as volcanic eruptions, movement of current and give an easterly set. In normal sandbanks, the growth of coral etc. This of the current which is made up of the easterly wind blown Equatorial current, circumstances in the passages the tide runs chart must therefore be used with caution. eight hours west, four east. However within Inshore navigation should only be reinforced by the ebb tide or partially (and occasionally completely) negated by the the Virgin Islands in Pillsbury Sound and undertaken in good light when the sun is Drakes Passage which are largely sheltered high. Navigational aids (buoys, beacons and flood tide. Taking advantage of a weather- going current can change a passage from from the Equatorial current, the tide ebb lights) are notable for their absence and/or and flood is six hours each direction. unreliability. being a real hard slog, to a glorious reach. It is important to read the sailing and pilot With tide and current setting you to Warning directions for the area concerned the night leeward, you will have to sail 010° to 015° The Caribbean is 0.4m to 0.6m lower in May, before, in order to plan the next day's run, above the rhumb line, but if it is setting you June, July and early August than it is in and to calculate your departure in time to to windward you will be able to sail a course winter this was noted in the 1867 Norie and guarantee arrival at the next anchorage 010° to 015° to leeward of the rhumb line. Wilson Sailing Directions in these months while the sun is still high. This makes a difference of 020° to 030° often shoal channels into various harbours should It is also important on interisland passages changing a dead beat to an easy close reach. be used with caution. Nanny Cay - Tortola, to allow for the set of the current. Stay to This often makes the difference between Manuel Reef marina, Wickhams Cay, Fat windward of the rhumb line. Take back slamming into it, or an eased sheet reach, Hog/East End Bay, Jolly Harbour Antigua bearings until you can see the island ahead. really flying. This is particularly true from St Rodney Bay Marina, Blue Lagoon - St In this day and age where GPS is more Vincent to St Lucia, Martinique to Dominica, Vincent, do not have tide gauges and require prevalent than hand bearing compasses, Deshaies (Guadeloupe) to English Harbour particular care. Yachts are increasing in size take GPS readings every half hour and plot (Antigua). whilst shoal channels can be used safely in them on the chart, make sure you stay to If you plan your passages so that you have winter, in summer, at low water springs; windward of the rhumb line between your the flood tide helping you it can make a there have been incidents when large yachts starting point and your anchorage. All large difference to your sailing time. The have grounded completely blocking the courses given in the text are rhumb lines. difference from setting off on a lee-going tide to a weather-going tide is generally channel for others. The author has Do not enter strange harbours at night. campaigned for many years for gauges to be Many lights are unreliable 020°, often as much as 030°. There is a short and brief rule of thumb method. The tide introduced to prevent these incidents. Norie and Wilson Sailing Directions to the starts running to the east soon after HIGH WATER FULL AND CHANGE Caribbean (1817) state, ‘When passing to moonrise, continues to run east until about leeward of the high islands stay within two an hour after the moon reaches its zenith The time of High Water at each location pistol shots distance of shore or seven (overhead) then it runs westward, during full and new moons (full & change) leagues (21 miles) off.’ Still as true today as reinforcing the westerly current. Then as the occurs at a set time after the meridian it was in 1817. moon sets, the tide starts running again to passage of the moon for each location. Tides and Currents the east, turning westwards again about an The time of the meridian passage for each hour after the moon passes its nadir (directly day can be found in Nautical Almanac, and (see als o Street’s Transatlantic Crossing underneath), see sketch. in Compass magazine. Guide ) In the Eastern Caribbean during the eg Location X – HW F & C 2h30m (from the Heading north or south, the current is on the winter months, the wind will vary from east- table on the chart) beam, setting you off your rhumb line course southeast to east-northeast, occasionally Meridian passage at X for Y date is, say, an appreciable amount. When heading going all the way around to north. The 0200hrs (from Nautical Almanac or Compass north or south, the Equatorial current is current sets generally west at a knot or more. magazine) setting you to the west. It is negated (and Thus the greatest problem encountered by occasionally, with spring tides, eliminated) by the yachtsman new to the area is that of Thus HW on Y date will be at 0430hrs. HW the tidal current. You must remember that allowing his boat to sag below the rhumb will be approximately 50mins later each the flood tide sets to the east, the ebb tide line course. At the end of the day, he following day. sets to the west. suddenly realises that the anchorage is well WIND Current (knots) to windward – a hard slog against wind and Boat Speed 1.5 1.2 1.0 0.8 tide. To avoid this situation keep a hand- In the eastern Caribbean during the winter (knots) bearing compass handy and take continual months, the wind will vary from east- 2 37 º 31 º 27 º 22 º bearings or GPS fixes; if you cannot see the southeast to east-northeast, occasionally 3 27 º 22 º 18 º 15 º island ahead, take stern bearings or GPS going all the way around to north when a 4 21 º 17 º 14 º 11 º fixes. big winter cold front from the states works 5 17 º 13 º 11 º 9º In this day and age where GPS is more its way eastwards to Puerto Rico. 6 14 º 11 º 9º 8º prevalent than hand bearing compasses, It generally blows 15 to 18 kts, but at times 7 12 º 10 º 8º 7º take GPS readings every half hour and plot it will drop off to 8 to 12 kts for days at a 8 11 º 9º 7º 6º them on the chart, make sure you stay to time, but also it can pipe up to a steady 20 9 9º 8º 6º 5º windward of the rhumb line between your to 25 kts with higher gust and stay this way 10 9º 7º 6º 5º starting point and your anchorage. The tides for a week or ten days. Be prepared for Degrees of set leeway trom Antigua south are semi-diurnal, (what heavy weather.

2 Meteorological information BOW AND STERN MOORING The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration’s National Data Buoy Center operate a variety of stations throughout the world. Eight such stations exist in the Eastern Caribbean recording a wide variety of meteorological information. Much of this data is available to the yachtsman via the NOBC website. Go to www.ndbc.noaa.gov/Maps/Caribbean and click on the station you wish to access. Wind velocities from shore stations in the Eastern Caribbean give little indication of winds expected offshore. The weather buoys to the east of the islands will give a good indication of weather and sea conditions to be expected in the islands 24 hours later. Buoys to the north will give you indications of the approach of a ground swell condition but remember the ground swell will approach at 25 to 30 kts per hour When the shore is steep-to, an anchor off the stern will be pulling uphill and will hold well. The bow can be secured by an anchor ashore or in shoal water. This type of anchoring is so lock on to buoys well north of the islands. essential to all anchorages that are open to the northwest ground swell. Every year Caribbean Compass puts out an updated version of their list of radio stations that give weather info of interest to the (line) then take a second anchor, carry it back through the other, and work it tight. (The sailor. to the stern, drop it, shorten up on bow two wraps will ensure the strop doesn’t slip Ground swells anchor until you have the correct amount of along the boom.) To make the loop, take a scope, then take a strain on the anchor you piece of line of the appropriate length, tie When ground swells are expected on the have dropped off the stern (but lead the the ends together with a sheet bend, and north coast of Puerto Rico, they are rode through the bow chock), and secure. mouse the tails of the knot with electrical predicted quite accurately on El Oso San Now that you have moored between two tape. Juan, Virgin Island news. Add roughly anchors there is no danger of swinging Secure a wire (or a length of high-tech line twenty-four hours for the ground swell ashore when the wind dies out at night. like Spectra or Dyneema) to the bail or strop. predicted to reach the southern end of the This is the permanent part of the boom Caribbean. RIG FOR DOWNWIND preventer. It should be about a foot shorter On any beach open to the northwest as far Take a spare line (spare sheet or dock line) at than the distance from the bail to the south as Antigua, there is the danger of the least the length of the boat, secure it to the gooseneck and have a thimble spliced into ground swell, especially if the beach ashore end of the main boom, pull it tight and the gooseneck end of it. A lashing line tied is quite steep and the sand really soft. I secure the line to the goose neck, coil and into the thimble will allow you to snug the strongly advise either a Bahamian moor or hang up the excess. Once underway and preventer up to the gooseneck and tight moor bow-and-stern when anchoring off it. running downwind, broad off, free it from under the boom when it’s not in use. If the ground swell comes in during the the goose neck, take it forward outside all Lead two spinnaker-pole foreguys, one night when on a single anchor it will pivot the rigging through a bow chock and secure each side of the boat, through blocks at the the boat around in the surf and within a few it to mooring cleat or anchor windlass. It is stemhead or the end of the bowsprit. Clip minutes the boat is driven on shore. then almost impossible to jibe. Rig the the snap shackles to lifeline stanchions Ground swells are completely headsail to a spinnaker pole of the opposite abreast of the mast and run the other ends independent of the Caribbean weather side, sail down wind wing and wing. As the aft to the cockpit. systems; they are generated by storms in the Maine coast schooner skippers would say, To set up the preventer when you’re North Atlantic. The season is mid-October to ‘Sailing down wind reading both pages of sailing, all you have to do is untie the line the end of March though very occasionally the book.’ If you do not have a spinnaker under the boom from the gooseneck and clip ground swells will appear in April. pole and the preventer is rigged really tight, the snap shackle of the leeward foreguy into For cruising therefore, May is fine: no a good helmsman can sail slightly by the lee the thimble eye. Make the lashing line long hurricanes; no ground swell. June the same, and keep the headsail filled. A useful rig enough that you can tie it loosely to the though there is still a risk of hurricanes. July when heading westward in the Virgins, lifeline and use it as a retrieval line when it’s is good but watch out for hurricanes. Puerto Rico westwards from Antigua. time for a jibe. BAHAMIAN MOOR The above is a jury rig that can be done Once the wind gets on the quarter and the with the material found on a bare boat. If boom is well eased, connect the preventer Bahamian moor is useful if you are anchored you own your own boat do a proper job as and set it up tight using a winch. If no winch where there is a reversing tide that will described below. is available, over-ease the mainsheet, take up overcome the wind when the tide is running If heading westwards from the eastern on the foreguy, then re-trim the main to eastwards, or anchored off a beach that is Caribbean to Columbia or Panama rig a make the foreguy tight. A jibe is now all but exposed to the ground swell. If you are on a proper easily rigged and unrigged main impossible. Bahamian moor you will swing in a circle boom preventer. that is equal to the length of the boat. Once anchored, back down with the Main-boom preventer/foreguy engine, slacking the anchor line or chain Every year, numerous sailors are injured, and 1 until you have veered (eased) plenty of scope some are killed, as the result of inadvertant jibes. These accidents can be avoided with 3 4 5 the use of a preventer/foreguy on the main 2 boom. For downwind sailing, the first and most essential piece of gear to put in place is a strong preventer on the main boom that can Key to the diagram Arc of Swing be easily rigged and unrigged. To set up an effective preventer, you need 1. Main boom a strong bail on the end of the main boom, 2. Mainsheet preferably angled forward at about 45 3. Bail or strop degrees. 4. Wire preventer If you don’t have a suitable bail, you can 5. Light line BAHAMIAN MOOR use a loop of line to make a strop. Make the loop long enough that you can wrap it twice around the boom, tuck one end of the loop

3 Downwind rig with jib and main Immigration in Carriacou. Entrance and exit is your draft permits. Anchor bow and stern to easy if you keep your wits about you. as otherwise the south flowing current will This rig is for normal downwind sailing with Buoyage is unreliable and confusing. When swing you beam to the swell giving you and the mainsail secured to leeward with a approaching from the south, once past uncomfortable roll . preventer on the boom and the jib poled out Southwest Point, stay 150m off shore or you Proceeding north, cross Jew Bay, do not try to windward. may hit ‘Bare Boat Bounce’ a pinnacle rock entering or leaving via the Jew Bay channel, surrounded by deep water. Even the locals do not use this channel. Once the Rum Shop, or fuel tanks bear As you approach St Hilaire Point eyeball 1 258º mag, run in on this line of bearing. Do the deepest water. 3m is the shoalest depth. not turn south towards the boats anchored Local knowledge from Dave Goodall who off the slipway, they are behind the reef. has lived on the east coast of Carriacou for 2 3 Continue eastwards until the haul-out slip over 30 years, he states that here is a greater 2 bears southwest before turning south. range of tide inside Grand and Watering Bay If you are sailing in and tacking in north than outside. It sometimes reaches 0·9m at of the reef, favour the north shore of the springs. Deep draft boats should time their harbour as it is steep to. Alternatively, come passage to pass St Hilaire Point at High 7 5 in south of the central reef on a bearing of Water, which is about one hour after 4 6 120º mag on the 180 metre hill, as marked, meridian passage of the moon and 12 hours and turn south into the anchorage off the later. This is reliable information is backed up yacht club. by Andy Snell who has cruised the area for Key to the diagram Anchoring in the nature reserve is the last 30 years. 1. Main boom preventer forbidden. It is not a good hurricane hole, go Follow the range transit used by the locals. 2. Lee spinaker pole foreguy south to or Trinidad. Open until water appears between 3. Light line Now that the Tobago Cays are a national Mayreau and Union, range / transit 4. Headsail park and all boats are being charged a fee approximately 021/201° mag. once past St 5. Lazy sheet for headsail per person per day, sailors will be looking for Hilaire Point to avoid the 0.6m shoal. Open 6. Working headsail sheet alternative anchorages. Watering and Grand Union slightly from the mangroves at the 7. Foreguy Bays are superb anchorages seldom visited north end of Carriacou range / transit The working sheet (#6) is run through the by yachts due to the officious Grenadian 350/170° mag. When heading south reverse end of the spinnaker pole. If the wind goes customs officials. this procedure. too far forward for the headsail to be poled These detailed directions are courtesy of to windward, this sheet is eased and the sail SOUTH COAST OF CARRIACOU Kristian Nygard, of Nomad , David Goodall trimmed to leeward with the lazy sheet (#5). When coming from the north you must first who had lived on the east coast of Carriacou enter customs and immigration in Tyrell Bay. since 1984, and Rex a local fisherman . CARRIACOU Then you can go to the south coast of Once in Watering Bay depending on your (Pages 127-137) (See Plan B32) Carriacou and anchor off the west or north draft, you can tuck up as close to Crab Island, or the reef south of Crab Island . Or you can Hillsborough (see Plan D) The main town of of White Island, or off the north of Saline anchor SW of the reef east of the church. If Carriacou, but it is a rocky and rolly Island. The next day, make a short 3M beat your draft is 1.8m or under you may be able anchorage. Yachts normally only stop to to windward to Kendeace Point and enter to anchor west of the reef. check in or clear, then on to another Grand Bay from the south. Anchor behind Carib Island and via dinghy anchorage. On the south coast of Carriacou there are visit the east coast, locally known as If approaching Hillsborough from the three anchorages, west and north of White Windward side. This is a great area to visit as north, hug the coast, pass inside the shoal off Island, north of Saline and Gt Breteche Bay, the windward side is the home of the Craigston Point, Frigate Island in line with all require good eyeball navigation as the Carriacou Boatbuilders who still build their the two radio towers on the first hill SW of scale of the chart does not permit much 30-35ft fishing sloops (and occasionally Pinnacle Hill, 228° mag, and all detail. North of Saline Island a Bahamian trading schooners) on the beach. They often will be well. When leaving northwards, moor is required as there is a strong tide that careen them here to paint the bottoms. This reverse the procedure. Best anchorage is reverses if it is spring tide and trades are is the place to buy Jack Iron rum which is so north of the east dock, halfway between the light. strong that the ice sinks like a stone. See docks and Silver Beach Resort, in sand Gt Breteche Bay is a good secluded Street’s DVD Streetwise . bottom with good holding. anchorage for at the most two boats, if the If approaching from the south, round wind is north of east. Eyeball navigation to CARRIACOU NORTHWARD Cistern Point and short tack up between where chart shows 3.5m. Cistern Point and Mabouya and on to the There is a reef between the anchorage (See B311) anchorage off Hillsborough, but be careful and the beach but there is a dinghy pass east The usual course is to pass along the west side of the shoal water when on port tack in and west of the reef to the beach, 100 yards of Carriacou, stopping at Tyrrel Bay. When L’Esterre Bay. long. leaving, pass north of the middle ground, hug Sandy Island is owned and protected from the coast, and make allowance for the rocks development by the government of EAST COAST OF CARRIACOU which extend about 200 meters offshore from 1 Carriacou. The people of Hillsborough The east coast of Carriacou must be Jack Iron Point. Sister Rocks ⁄2 a mile off the frequent the island on weekends and approached from the south as boats coming point are now lit (VQ(9)10s). Under power or holidays, and charter boats often anchor off from the north must clear into Grenadian sail, the best course from Cistern Point to its southwestern corner, their parties going waters in Tyrell Bay. Then the next day head Hillsborough Bay is on a bearing of 094º mag, ashore for lunch and snorkelling. east along the south coast to Kendance passing south of Maybouya and Sandy Islands Spearfishing is prohibited. This is a good and Point. Boats coming from Grenada will stop and being careful to avoid the reef on the justifiably popular daytime anchorage. at Tyrell Bay or the anchorages on the south southwestern tip of Sandy Island. Other than In recent years, more and more boats have coast of Carriacou before entering Grand Bay that, there are no dangers in this area unless been spending the night in this rather via Kendeace Point channel. you have a vessel drawing more than 3·5m. exposed anchorage. Since you are sheltered Working eastwards along the south coast Beating to windward through this gap is 1 good fun, as there is no sea and usually plenty by Carriacou (1 ⁄2M to the east), the sea can’t of Carriacou is strictly a case of eye ball get too rough, but the wind can whistle navigation. Do not do it before 1100 as of wind. across Hillsborough Bay. If you are going to before that time the sun is too low for Between Cistern Point and Hillsborough, spend the night, make sure you are well and eyeball navigation. deep-draught boats can easily run aground. truly anchored; two anchors set in a ‘Y’ to When entering Grand Bay hug the The old schooner range is still a safe one. Put the east would probably be best. windward side of the channel , the deepest Cistern Pt under the stern and the hospital Petit Carenage Bay Due east of Gun Point water. If you make a mistake and are too far building at the top of the mountain on the (Rapid Point) is Petit Carenage Bay, where to windward and bounce you will float off bow and proceed straight to the anchorage. there is an anchorage for shoal-draught into deeper water. If you hit on the lee side Once past Sandy Island, you can shift course boats behind the reef, and a good beach. It of the channel you will be driven into shoaler slightly toward the Hillsborough jetty. North is best suited to multihulls, centreboarders, water. As you enter the channel the current of Hillsborough there is one danger, or shoal-draught motorsailers. will usually be setting you to leeward. between Jack Adan I. and the mainland. This Tyrell Bay is now the main yacht anchorage Within Grand Bay it is a case of eyeball is a 1·2m spot with quite a few dents in it. and is also the location of Customs and navigation. Anchor as close to the reef as You can pass it inside by placing the hill on

4 Frigate Island directly in line with the two use by good reef pilots in ideal conditions. Bloody Bay If the wind is south of east, radio towers on Union Island, which are on Work your way as far eastwards as your Bloody Bay is a superb anchorage. Crystal the hill just west of the highest and draught will permit, and anchor, again using clear water, sand bottom, good holding, easternmost range on Union (course 028º a Bahamian moor. Though windswept you white sand beach, and no roads or mag). Be sure to stay on this range, as this will have a calm and quiet anchorage. habitation ashore except for an old shoal is particularly hard to spot. abandoned concrete house. If east or north PETITE MARTINIQUE of east forget it. CARRIACOU EAST TO (Page 139) - (See B311) MAYREAU ISLAND PETITE ST VINCENT Anchor west of the jetty. The bottom drops Under power, you can steer direct from Gun off steeply, to 11 to 13m of water and there (Page 115) (See Plan B) Point to the dock of Petite St Vincent and is good holding once the anchor is in but you Saline Bay A beautiful white sand beach but clear all dangers. Under sail, it will be a dead will need plenty of line (50 to 60m) if you rather a rolly anchorage. Good holding on beat to windward. On port tack, beware of want to be sure not to drag. white sand bottom. Two dingy docks but be the shoal off Petite Carenage Bay and the Fuel and water are available alongside the sure to bring a dinghy anchor to hold your shoal on the north end of Watering Bay. On dock in Petit Martinique. Ashore you will dinghy away from the dock. The ever present starboard tack, watch out for Punaise and find some of the best prices for alcoholic surge causes the docks to ‘eat’ dinghies Mopion, the two sand islands northwest of drinks in the entire Caribbean. unless you are very careful. Check against Petite St Vincent. Punaise may not be visible; cruise ship schedules and avoid when they it has been reported as under water. There is PALM ISLAND are due in. ample water between these two islands, but (Pages 117-120) (See B311 Plan C) Mariners are advised that the pillar Lt eyeballing is called for, as they are both Anchor west of the island, sand good buoy Fl.R.4s to the west of Grand Col Pt is continually growing and shifting. often missing. If this is the case, then the To head north from Petite St Vincent, pass holding but anchor close to shore as the bottom drops off very steeply. The tidal Range 15 transit on chart B311 should be midway between Punaise and Mopion and used to clear the dangerous rock. continue on course until Fota and the east current runs strong on a north-south axis, you may find yourself tide rode, and though Salt Whistle Bay An excellent anchorage but side of Petite Dominique are one finger open do not go too far into the bay, check depths (course 013º mag). This will take you well it is a safe anchorage, it tends to be a rolly one. carefully so you do not go aground at low east of Grand de Coi and east of the tide. It can be very crowded. detached reef off Palm Island. Care must be UNION ISLAND exercised here, as the current will be at a Windward Bay A wonderful place to get (Pages 120-123) (See B311 Plan C) right angle to your course and will tend to away from it all. Strictly for experienced reef sweep you leeward. Thus, you need to check Clifton Harbour Do not try to enter Clifton pilots using eyeball navigation. Pick out the continuously that you are still on range. If harbour at night. Newland Reef is marked by range on Ten Shilling Hill bearing 023º mag, you do not keep a good lookout, you may lit beacons, but they are not to be relied run on in using eyeball navigation. Only come to a sudden stop before you realise you upon. The best anchorage is tight up behind attempt in good conditions and light. Feel are too close. Grand de Coi is now marked by the reef. Nudge up as close to the reef as your way in, tuck up very close behind the a west cardinal beacon (VQ(9)10s). your draught will permit, drop anchor, back reef, moor bow-and-stern or Bahamian An alternative route clear of Grand de Coi down and set it. The holding is superb. If it is moor, make sure your anchors are well set, is provided by putting Glossy Hill, on the too crowded behind the reef, anchor sit and enjoy the solitude. A mile to western point of Canouan, in line with the anywhere in the main harbour, but windward you will see the Tobago Cays eastern end of Mayreau Island. Glossy Hill remember it is deep (most of the harbour crowded with yachts. will appear as a detached island west of being about 12m) so you will need 50 to 60m Take the dinghy ashore, pull it up on the Taffia Hill, as it is connected to Canouan only of anchor line. beach, walk across the island to the road up by a low sandspit. Roundabout Reef, in the middle of the the hill. Hitch a ride to the top of the hill to Beating to windward from Rapid Point to harbour and marked by a beacon (Fl(2+1)R) the Catholic Church for a magnificent view. the region of Union Island, you will want to at its southwestern end, is clearly visible and On a clear day north all the way to St avoid Grand de Coi. Catholic Island placed steep-too on all sides. Vincent, south to Palm, Union, Carriacou, east to the crowded Tobago Cays. They are a over the low land to the east of Fort Hill Frigate Island, Ashton harbour An excellent great contrast to Windward Bay that will (Union I) passes clear to the west of Grand de anchorage if you stay close to shore. 2m can only have one to two boats anchored Coi (course 022º-202º mag). North of Grand be carried north of Frigate Island, now enjoying the peace and solitude. de Coi, you will have to tack to the east to connected to the mainland by a causeway, to Then take a walk down the hill and stop clear the reefs to windward of Union Island. where the land is low. You will, therefore, at one of the many bars or combined North beyond Palm and Union Islands is get a cool breeze at night. Go slow, feel your restaurants and bars before heading back to about the most dangerous area of the way in (or send the dinghy ahead) and the boat. Grenadines (see Plan B). A reef at the north anchor at a suitable depth. Work on the When we were anchored in Windward end of Saline Bay, off Grand Col Pt, has marina project has stopped and the partly Bay on Ariel , a beautiful 150’ ketch that damaged many yachts proceeding north constructed piers are collapsing. Controlling drew 15’ came in and anchored. The guest along the lee coast of Mayreau. This shoal is depth in the harbour 1·5m (1999). departed in the big RIB out through the now marked by a buoy, but it is sometimes Chatham Bay An excellent anchorage. In missing for long periods of time . When it is north east channel and around the north years gone by it was a great place to get end of Mayreau. missing use the below described away from it all, but it is now very popular ranges/transits. To clear the end of this reef, and the solitude has been lost. TOBAGO CAYS TO CANOUAN put Fota one finger open from the east side The bay is accesible by 4x4 via a rough (See B311) of Petite Dominique (course 013º-193º mag). track and shelters have been built offering As you approach Grand Col Point at the drinks and light meals. From the northern end of the Tobago Cays north end of Saline Bay, Mayreau, check to Anchor in the northeast corner in 3·7m, to the western end of Canouan, there are no see if any of Petite St Vincent is showing east sand and good holding. The southeast part dangers. Glossy Hill is easily laid from of Palm I. If Petite St Vincent is at all visible, of the bay is shoal and reef encumbered. If Mayreau Baleine. If you are bound for the bear off to the west or you will come to a coming from the south, avoid Water Rock windward side of Canouan and are tacking sudden stop on the reef off Grand Col Point. (2m) which is hard to spot and has nailed a below Channel Rock, I urge you to set out in With this reef behind you, there are no other number of yachts. See chart B311. slack water or a fair tide. Great care must be dangers standing north from Mayreau to For some reason it frequently blows so taken to avoid the submerged Break Rock Canouan. hard in Chatham Bay that boats wait for days ½M southwest of Channel Rock. This rock is covered and breaks in a swell. Jim Hill PETITE ST VINCENT for the wind to die down only to discover that elsewhere the wind has been blowing touching the northwest side of Channel Rock (Pages 124-125) (See B311) at the usual 12 to 15kn. passes clear to the west of Break Rock The principal, though often crowded In Chatham Bay you may meet a man that (course 060º mag). Channel Rock in line with anchorage, is at the south of PSV. It has a deserves all the help you can give him. He is Taffia Hill passes Break Rock clear to white sand bottom and good holding, but if a deaf mute, but instead of sitting around windward (course 038º). it is not blowing hard and spring tides you feeling sorry for himself has made himself a may become tide rode, thus I advise a satisfactory living growing provision crops, Bahamian moor. There is another seldom- fruit and fishing, selling his produce and fish used anchorage north of the island, only for to visiting yachts.

5 WEST COAST OF CANOUAN There is good exploring along the south the swell, so the boats were not badly (Pages 101-104) (See Plan A) coast of the island. If the ground swell is not damaged. Hold a course of approximately running or if it is not blowing too hard, there 143º mag to the southwest tip of Petit The whole north end of the island is is sometimes an anchorage between L’Islot Rameau and all will be well. occupied by a very high end resort. After (Dove Cay) and the mainland. Due north of If, however, you approach the Cays from many changes, the luxurious resort is now L’Islot is excellent. Sail in and check it out. If the north but wish to pass through them and called Raffles. Visitors are not welcome. it looks calm, drop the hook and enjoy continue down direct to Palm Island or Petite Charlestown Bay (Grand Bay) If approaching yourself. Further east, between Taffia and St Vincent, sail to windward of Mayreau from the north, leave the northern green Jim Hills in Friendship Bay, is another Baleine and hold a course of around 215º beacon (Fl.G.4s) to port, head eastwards and anchorage, but the approach requires mag to the reefs to windward of Mayreau; anchor in the northeast corner of the careful eyeballing. Post someone in the pass to windward of the reef off L’Ance harbour; stay clear of the conspicuous white rigging and stand in cautiously under power Bandeau and into Snake Channel. This rock and the shoal extending south of it. or on starboard tack. There is good holding channel is narrow but deep; there is no If you anchor off the hotel, you will most here on a white-sand bottom, excellent water, port or starboard, but about 12m likely end up facing west and rolling, better swimming, and not too much of a swell beneath. Continue on this course with a crew anchor in the northeast cornerinsert by the unless the wind is from the southeast. You member in the rigging, not just on the coastguard base and dinghy to the hotel if will see a water tower, jetty and buildings bowsprit - this is essential, as the channel you wish. housing the fisherman’s co-operative. There takes a sharp turn to port and you enter it If coming from the south, when beating to is 1·8m along the end of the jetty. Ashore on a beam reach. Start sheeting in halfway windward to the head of the harbour, stay you will find friendly fishermen and may be through the channel. At the end, you will be clear of the shoals north of Nens bay and the able to buy fresh fish and lobster. almost hard on the wind, since the axis of the shoal off Bachelors Hall Point that is marked south end of the channel is southeast- by a red beacon (Fl.R.4s) at the eastern end. EAST COAST OF CANOUAN northwest. Once clear of the reef to Charleston Bay A beautiful white sandy (Pages 104-106) (See B311) starboard, you can ease sheets and head for Palm Island, Petite St Vincent, or wherever. beach, thus not a good anchorage, rocky and Windward Bay For the seasoned sailor, deep rolly especially if the ground swell is running. water can be carried to windward around Approaching the Tobago Cays from At the best of times the wind loops over the Friendship Point and a good way north the West hill creating a back eddy so anchored boats inside the reefs. Boats drawing 2·5m have If coming under power, no problem - just tend to face west. The best anchorage is in gone up through here. Within the reefs the head for southwest of Mayreau Baleine and the northeast corner in Charles Bay. Watch current is always running south, and at times pick up the established range. The course is for rocks and shoal water starboard side too strongly for a person to swim against. 143º mag. This leads directly to the when entering. Do not rely on the leading There is sufficient water but the area is anchorage, between Petit Rameau and Petit lights. littered with small coral heads. Bateau. If, however, you are beating to Corbec Bay Once a lovely little anchorage You are guaranteed an uncrowded windward under sail and cannot lay the but now the loading port for the anchorage with good swimming and range, be careful of the 2·1m spot on One development on the north of the island. snorkelling, and great shelter. Fathom Bank approximately 0·3M south- L’Ance Guyac There are a number of other For the seasoned sailor, deep water can be southwest of Mayreau Baleine and the anchorages northwest of Charlestown carried to windward around Friendship Point reported 1·5m spot a further 0·2M south of Harbour, if you’d rather be alone, L’Ance and a good way north inside the reefs. Boats this - very much a case of eyeball navigation. Guyac is a very attractive small cove with drawing 2·5m have gone up through here. Approaching the Tobago Cays from room for just one boat. It’s probably best to Within the reefs the current is always the South moor bow-and-stern. The beach ashore is running south, and at times too strongly for not too good, but the snorkelling is excellent a person to swim against. Riley Bay at the Not allowed by most bareboat organisations. and you may find small lobsters. south end of Windward Bay is full of coral When approaching from the south, you If you want a white-sand beach to walk heads but you can thread your way between should work well to the east until the middle on, go over a small spit of land onto the them. On the west side of Riley Bay are three hill on Palm Island is directly under High northern end of Rameau Bay. This beach, small superb private white sand beaches. The North on Carriacou. This leads between the although fine for sunning and exploring, is land rises steeply from the beach and much two disappearing sand islands and into the not good for swimming, as it goes from of it covered with heavy brush with thorns Tobago Cays. As you approach this narrow white sand to rock. However, the snorkelling making it impenetrable. There are numerous channel, you can get into trouble if a rain is good. coral heads easily avoided in good light at squall blocks out either Palm Island or South of L’Ance Guyac Pt, the point that the southern end of Windward Bay and at Carriacou. Thus, a bow range is useful. One forms the southern end of L’Ance Guyac, you the north end of Riley Bay. The coral heads that leads to the same opening is made by can find a moderately good anchorage if you then thin out north of Riley Bay and are very putting the southeast corner of Petit moor bow-and-stern and on a northwest- few, becoming almost non existent as you Rameau just closing with the northwest southeast axis in Little Bay. There is about 3m sail north. There is a full 2.4m of water all the corner of Petit Bateau. You are then set to of water quite close to shore, and everyone way to the north end of Windward Bay and go through the channel between the two can go snorkelling right from the boat, in Carenage Bay. The rock shown on the disappearing sand islands. Once through the making this a good lunchtime stop. chart in Carenage Bay does not exist. There channel, it is a case of eyeball navigation. One trouble with this range is that unless the Rameau Bay This bay is really too exposed is a break in the reef, a channel, at the north east corner of Windward Bay that is wind is well around to the south, it will be for anchoring, but along the shore are a impossible to use under sail; you will have to number of very small, isolated, white-sand estimated to have 2.1m of water through the break. The sea coming in over the reef flows motorsail to use it. beaches. You are just a short dinghy ride If you are approaching Tobago Cays from from the anchorage in Charlestown Bay. south through the entrance. To minimize the roll, anchor bow and stern, or yawls and Petite St Vincent, sail west until the peak of Nens Bay Shoal on the north side of the bay ketches leave the mizzen up so the boat is on Petite Martinique bears 163º mag over the is not shoal enough to break the swell. an east-west axis, gently pitching rather than stern, come to course 343º mag, eyeball your Holding poor - grass. rolling. way between Punaise and Mopion, and, SOUTH COAST OF CANOUAN once clear of these two islands, come hard APPROACHES TO THE TOBAGO on the wind until the eastern peak of Petite (Page 104) (See B311) CAYS St Vincent bears 192º mag. Stay east of this South Glossy Bay This anchorage is splendid line of bearing until Union Island (Pages 109-114) (See Plan B & B311) if there is calm water and no swell. A place bears due west. Then bear off until the to spend a pleasant afternoon, evening or Approaching the Tobago Cays from middle hill on Palm Island lines up with High night, enjoying crystal clear water, white the North North on Carriacou (course 045º mag). Stay sand bottom, long stretches of beautiful Coming from the north, you should pass to hard on this range until you have passed beach and, hopefully, no other boats. A windward of Mayreau Baleine, trim sheets, between the eastern and western reefs. The marina has been started in South Glossy Bay, and skirt to leeward of the reefs to the western one may be spotted by a small sand with two breakwaters constructed, but the southeast. Take care here, as a number of island. However, remember that these sand dredging of the inner basin has stopped. The boats have clipped this reef too close and islands are prone to disappear at irregular first attempt to build a marina here was in bounced off. Luckily, there is an inner and intervals. 1985. outer reef, and the outer reef breaks most of

6 If you are coming from between Palm and up this range very carefully - i.e. the accounts for the excellent fishing. No one Union Islands and heading for the southern southeast end of Petit Rameau should line would suspect that anyone would live on this entrance to the Tobago Cays, you must fight up with the cut in the hill that is north of the little pile of rocks, but someone does, and your way up to windward until, again, the low area of Mayreau Island. It is easy enough charges visitors for the right to camp or fish. middle hill on Palm Island lines up with High to remember this range when going out, but If it is not blowing hard, a north-to-south North on Carriacou. Follow this bearing into when you are coming back, tired and wet, it passage between the islands makes for a the Cays. is easy to miss, as you are coming downwind spectacular sail. Be sure to have your camera If the range to the south is obscured, a through the surf. If you miss this pass, you ready on the starboard side as you emerge second range on the northwest corner of will be swamped. from the channel. You will see an Petit Bateau just touching the southeast Worlds End Reef, east of Tobago Cays, impressively massive stone arch created by corner of Petit Rameau 071-251º mag, also provides a good anchorage under its lee if it the tides. leads in to the southern entrance of the is not blowing too hard. However, this Tobago Cays. anchorage should be attempted only by MUSTIQUE yachtsmen who are very experienced and TOBAGO CAYS (Pages 97-98) can handle their boats in tight situations. The anchorage in Britannia Bay is popular (See Plan B) You must be good at eyeball navigation and and to preserve the coral it is now forbidden The Tobago Cays are now a national park. All have plenty of ground tackle. If you want to to anchor; you must pick up a mooring. In fishing and gathering of lobsters by any spend the night at Worlds End Reef, you years gone by, Montezuma Shoal nailed a method is illegal. The park is being should be moored on a chain with at least number of boats, now the shoal is marked by developed, check at Union Island or Palm two anchors out - if you started to drag an isolated danger beacon (Fl(2)15s). Island to find the latest regulations. during the night, you’d be in serious trouble, Anchoring is not permitted and you must The tides run swiftly through the Cays, and as eyeball navigation simply doesn’t work in pick up moorings if they are free. It is best to your movements and activities (especially the dark, even with a full moon. arrive around noon when boats that have diving) should be planned accordingly. A LEAVING THE TOBAGO CAYS been there over night have left as, if the swift tide can take you by surprise; every moorings are full, you will have to anchor in season at least one insurance claim is made When leaving the cays to the north, just 20m of water in a reversing tide, which is for yachts colliding in these narrow channels. reverse the entry procedure. For boats hard work and uncomfortable. If you are approaching a crowded heading south, a route out of the Cays If the wind is east of north an anchorage anchorage, you may be wise to drop sail and marked by the northern end of Range 11 on can be found for one boat only south of Ellis motor in. Chart B311 is most favoured. Island. Make sure your anchor is in sand so Once into the Cays, you may anchor CANOUAN TO BEQUIA that you do not damage the coral which is in anywhere along the slot between Petit any case poor holding. Rameau and Petit Bateau in a full 4m. Use a (Before sailing check tide and curent Bahamian moor to avoid the stern being information.) This trip should be made at PETIT MUSTIQUE swung into the wind when the tide runs to slack water or when the tide is running to (Page 100) windward. This can happen even when it is windward. The distance is 20M, and should A small, steep island south of Mustique with blowing 20kn through the slot and the boat the tide be running its full limit of two knots no anchorges and little of interest. As far as will waltz in a 100 metre circle. Large boats to the west, a vessel making five knots I know, it is not visited by yachtsmen. usually anchor to leeward of the Cays. If the through the water would have to steer 045º anchorage within the slot is too crowded, a mag, as opposed to the 028º rhumb line. BALICEAUX good anchorage can be had close to shore, Unless the wind were southeast, this would southwest of Baradal. There is plenty of put you on the wind. During the winter, with (Page 99) (see Plan) room here, and no need for a two-anchor the wind toward the north and a leeward- 1½M long and a ¼M wide, north-northeast rig. running tide, you stand very little chance of of Mustique, this high, rugged, seldom- For those who value privacy and wish to laying West Cay, leaving you a tough beat visited island is inhabited by transients - be close to a reef, an anchorage can be made into Admiralty Bay. Against a foul tide, be fishermen who camp on the beach for weeks close behind Horseshoe Reef. It is cool, sure to hold high on the course, passing close or months at a time. In Bay at the breezy, calm, and bugless. If you are aboard to leeward of Pigeon Island. There southwestern corner of the island is a nice planning to stay more than a few hours, two are no dangers on the course to Bequia little part-time anchorage. When the ground anchors are recommended: a Bahamian unless you draw over 4.2m. Deep draft boats swell is running, however, this anchorage is moor during the full or new moon if the must avoid La Felicidad Shoal, a rock impossible; the surf breaks so heavily wind is light; or, during a small moon - neap northwest of Jupiter Point with only 4.5m onshore that even the fishermen cannot tides - and heavy weather, use two anchors over it. La Felicidad found out the hard way. launch their boats. But during the spring and ahead in a ‘Y’. It may be a little choppy here If you depart during a weather tide, the only summer, it can be a great spot. and will certainly be very windy, but you will difficulty will be a strong tide rip off the As you approach from the south, feel your be guaranteed privacy and good snorkelling. northern end of Canouan. Your course will way up, favouring the eastern shore. The probably be 028º mag or in periods of spring reef to the west is extremely difficult to spot. PETITE TABAC tides the tide may overcome the Equatorial There is only room enough for one or two In the middle 60’s when we felt that ten Current, lift you to weather and allow you to boats, so if it is crowded here when you boats in the Tobago Cays was a crowd, the steer 018º mag. A nice reach rather than a arrive, other anchorages can be found late Gordon Stout searched for a private dead beat which will usually be the case if anywhere along the western side of the anchorage. He investigated Petite Tabac and you leave on a west-going (leeward) tide. island, after you have skirted the reef. Once told all the chart skippers the anchorage was Once you reach Pigeon Island, Isle à Quatre anchored, go ashore and enjoy the view so shallow that his motor sailor drawing and Petit Nevis serve to break the swell, from the top of the hill. 1.2m barely squeezed into the anchorage. So giving a glorious sail the rest of the way in BATTOWIA until multihulls arrived not one investigated with plenty of wind and smooth water. Petite Tabac. Once you have rounded West Cay, you (Page 99) (see Plan) Kristian Nygrard of yacht Nomad reports may turn on the iron genoa and head for the As far as I know, Battowia is another island 8‘ can anchor at the mouth of the harbour anchorage at Port Elizabeth with no seldom visited by yachtsmen. There is no but little shelter from the reef. 2.1m can get dangers in the way, or you can put the sport harbour. If the trades are not blowing too well into the harbour, 1.8m quite close in, all back into sailing and beat up into the hard, an anchorage can be had west of the eyeball navigation in good light. Anchor harbour, but be very careful of the shoals on reefs extending to the west of Church Cay. A with care to avoid damaging the coral. its south side. Bahamian moor will be required here, since Expert divers and good small-boat SAVAN ISLAND the current runs strongly through the break handlers who want some exciting diving between Battowia and Baliceaux. I am told should go to the other edge of Horseshoe (Page 100) by the fishermen that a dinghy landing can Reef and to Worlds End Reef. When diving, Well to windward of Petit Canouan. If you be made in the cove on the southeast corner check the tidal section of this chart against are heading south from Mustique, this is a of the island. Here, in the past, small boats the meridian passage of the moon table possible overnight anchorage in settled would land to drop off and pick up supplies. which is in every issue of Caribbean Compass. conditions. One can anchor in the lee of this The island was a sugar island, the only Do your diving on a weather-going tide. If island, or between the islands with one reminder of which is a ruined smokestack at the weather is not too rough, you can reach anchor on the windward of the two and a the head of the cove. Now Battowia is them by dinghy via the small-boat pass second anchor on the reef to leeward. The uninhabited, but it remains a delightful through Horseshoe Reef. You’ll need to line current runs strongly there, which no doubt place to visit when the weather permits. 7 This is the island where thousands of boats moored on Belmont Shoal are either Caribs were imprisoned after they shoal draught multihulls or centerboarders! surrendered to the British. Many died and It is reported that this shoal now carries the survivors shipped off to British Honduras considerably more water. Some deeper and the Bay of Islands. draught boats are tucked inside the reef, and if you head for them you will come to a ISLE A QUATRE sudden stop. (Page 96) The anchorage is likely to be very Pretty to look at, but one must be something crowded. Find a spot clear of the ferry of a mountain goat to appreciate it. The channel which is roughly due west of the anchorage is below the house on the main dock. Check your fathometer before northwestern shore in three fathoms of anchoring as a sand dredger is operating, water. The house is perched on a ridge 120m gathering sand for construction. The harbour above the sea and facing directly into the may, therefore, be considerably deeper than trades. It must have one of the best views in the chart shows. Make sure you are securely the entire Caribbean. anchored before you go ashore. The southwestern cove of Isle à Quatre If you pick up a rental mooring be sure to (Lagoon Bay) can be entered by boats dive and verify that it is suitable for the size drawing 2m or less. There is a maximum of of boat. There is a good anchorage on the 3m in the cove. The cove is completely reef- north side of the harbour west of Bequia encumbered and should be attempted only Slipway . There may be more water than the by an experienced reef navigator under ideal charts show so use eyeball navigation and conditions. It is impossible to give detailed the fathometer to feel your way in. sailing directions: Just enter on the eastern L’Anse de Chemin This cove on the west side side of the cove and feel your way in, but of the northwest point of Bequia is seldom only under ideal circumstances with good visited by yachtsmen. With the wind south of light and with a crew member standing on east, the anchorage is calm and you’ll find the top of the bow pulpit or better on the 5·5m close to shore. There is good lower spreaders. snorkelling, and ashore are the ruins of an old sugar plantation. No road, no people - an PETIT NEVIS old-style, practically undisturbed West Indian (Page 96) anchorage. This is where the whales caught by the MARINAS, MOORINGS & REPAIRS Bequians are brought to be butchered, so Carriacou whale bones are strewn along the shore. Carriacou Yacht & Beach Club Most of the time, you will find the island  +1 473 443 6292 VHF Ch 16 deserted, except during weekends and Cassada Bay Resort holidays, when the people of Bequia come  +1 473 443 7494 VHF Ch 16 across to let the good times roll. Silver Beach Resort There is a good anchorage off the western  +1 473 443 7337 VHF Ch 16 shore of Petit Nevis, but the bottom falls off Tyrrel Bay Yacht Haulout so steeply here that you must nearly set your  +1 473 443 6940 VHF Ch 16 bow ashore before dropping anchor. When Palm Island the anchor is down, feed out plenty of scope. Palm Island Beach Club It is always calm here when it’s windy. You  +1 784 458 8824 VHF Ch 16, 68 can walk over to the windward side, where Union Island the beach varies from white sand to loose Anchorage YC gravel, depending on the storms that year.  +1 784 458 8221 VHF Ch 16, 68 This is an excellent picnic spot, and regardless Island Marine Special of the condition of the beach, it is always  +1 784 458 8039 VHF Ch 16 cool, with the trades blowing through the Petit St Vincent palm trees.  +1 784 458 8801 VHF Ch 16 BEQUIA Mayreau Salt Whistle Bay (Pages 88-96)  +1 784 458 8444 VHF Ch 16. 68 Friendship Bay (see Plan B30) The home of Canouan the last whaleboats in the western Tamarind Bay Resort hemisphere still hunting whales. In the late  +1 784 458 8044 VHF Ch 16 fifties they were launching six boats a day Canouan Beach Restaurant (S Glossy Bay) during the season. Now there are two. To  +1 784 458 8888 VHF Ch 16 reach Friendship Bay, tack up the south coast Mustique of Bequia, pass between Middle Cay and The Mustique Company Semples Cay, stand eastwards until you can  +1 784 458 4621 VHF Ch 16, 68 easily lay Semples Cay on starboard tack Request moorings in advance (remember the current may be setting you to Bequia leeward at 1 to 2kn), enter Friendship Bay Bequia Marina midway between Semples Cay and St Hilaire  +1 784 458 3246 VHF Ch 16, 68 Pt, and anchor in the northeast corner to Friendship Bay Resort obtain the quietest anchorage.  +1 784 458 3222 VHF Ch 68 Admiralty Bay (see Plan B30) The main town Daffodil Marine Services and anchorage of Bequia. Good shelter in all  +1 784 458 3942 VHF Ch 67 or 68 normal conditions but a veritable death trap Grenadine Yacht Equipment if a hurricane comes anywhere near as it is  +1 784 458 3347 VHF Ch 16, 68 open to the west and a ground swell pours in. The S side, Princess Margaret Bay is untenable in a N swell. For yachts of normal draught (2·5m or less) there are no dangers. Coming from the north, pass to the west of the west cardinal beacon (VQ(9)10s) off Wash Rock, then tack up into the harbour staying clear of Belmont Shoal. This nabs a tremendous number of bareboats as they do not realise that the 8