I of the Kootenay Mountaineering Club Vol. 28, Autumn 1985
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, ff 4 I of The Kootenay Mountaineering Club Vol. 28, Autumn 1985 <ARAB The Journal of The Kootenay Mountaineering Club Vol. 28, Autumn 1985 <ARAD \ER '85 The Journal of the Kootenay Mountaineering Club Volume 28, Autumn 1985 EDITOR Jeff Ross OFFICERS OF THE CLUB President Fred Thiessen Secretary Jean Kennedy Treasurer Pat Ridge Trips Peter McIver/John Stewart Camps Fred Thiessen Social Dave Adams Rock School Paul Allen Cabins and Trails John Carter Conservation John Stewart Newsletter Anne Dean KARABINER '85 is published by The Kootenay Mountaineering Club Layout and Design Jeff S. Ross Technical Assistancez Graphic Communications Dept. Selkirk College, Castlegar B.C. (see credits, p.37) Cover photo,'85 Hiking Camp, The Valley of the Lakes Back cover, Headwaters, Woodbury Creek, Kokanee Glacier Park. photos: Jeff Ross Korobner '85 Toole of Contents President's Report, p.4 Editor's Forward, p.4 Inside Story, p.5 Jeff Ross Avalanche Danger Indicators, p.6 Brad Geisler sub. by Fred Thiessen Avalanche Beacon Evaluation, p.8 Parks Canada sub. by Fred Thiessen It's a Small World Out There, p.10 Jim Kienholz Ski Mountaineering in the Rockies, p.11 Bert Port Ski Mountaineering in the Valhallas, p.13 John Carter A Shot in the Dark, p.15 Jeff Lakes Monashee Park Journal, p.16 Craig Andrews Notes on Old Violet Mine, p.17 Jeff Ross Tribulations in the Himalayas, p.20 Steve Horvath Tragedy on Kanchenjunga, p.23 Jeff Ross On Location: South Moresby, p.25 John Stewart Adieu Dragon Lady, p.26 Jeff Ross Huascaran '85, p.28 Jeff Lakes Hiking,Camp '85, The Valley of the Lakes, p.29 Jeff Ross Verse Helen Butling ,Marie Earthy Satellite Camp, p.32 Jeff Ross Hiking Camp wk.2 verse Marie Earthy Hiking Camp wk.2 footnotes John Stewart Climbing Camp '85, Ape Lake, p.33 Various as noted Credits Pat Ridge, custodian of the clubs treasury, reports a healthy financial situation with no major ex- penditures over the last year. John Carter continues to keep us well informed on the cabins and trails in the area. Your continued in- volvement in the work parties he organizes is necessary to ensure the repair of the facilities we use in our outings. John Stewart has represented the club well in its conservation efforts by attending The Valhalla Park Prescent's Master Plan meetings, four other Mountain Parks meetings, as well as visiting South Moresby Island to add our voice to those seeking preservation of this Resort area. In addition, his efforts in coordinating this year's hiking camp, dispite a forest closure, were well ap- preciated by those attending hiking camp. by Fred Thiessen Jeff Ross, Karabiner Editor has produced the thickest issue in recent times, and our thanks to him. This is in contrast to the Alpine Club of Canada who will likely not publish this year due to a shortage of funds. and already it's time for reflection. 1985 was a T On our behalf the Federation of Mountain Clubs good year, the summer was warm and dry with of B.C. (FMCBC) continues to represent our club as theh best ever attendance on camps and an ambitious well as others as a lobby group for conservation mat- tripe schedule which was well subscribed to. ters as well as mountaineering politics. s The club's success is due to a hard working group of volunteers from within the executive and the In closing I would like to remind you we are a u group of volunteers and your efforts make the club membership at large. To all of them my thanks, for withoutm them we would not be a club. work, if you're not involved, and would like to be, m I wclild like to thank Anne Dean for the continu- please come forward. 0 inge excellent job she has done on the newsletter, and forr the day to day affairs of the club in my absence this fall. Also to Allan and Mary Baker who fold, stamp o and mail the newletter. Despite our fears of having to payf full reproduction costs for the newsletter, the generosity1 of a large Trail corporation continued, allowing9 for low printing costs. Although Rock School was8 attended by fewer students this year, it was a suc- cess.5 The usual compliment of instructors were on hand to teach as well as sharpen their own skills. Paul Allen'sh efforts were much appreciated by those who EcItor's tooka the course. s This year's trip schedule was the most ambitious oneg ever offered with hiking, mountaineering, canoe- Forwcrd ing,o and caving outings. For the most part trips were well attended and the more varied schedule appeared n to work well. To those who lead trips and to Peter by Jeff Ross McIvere and John Stewart who solicited leaders, the clubb is grateful. y For many members the camps are the summer's highlight,f and this year they were phenomenally suc- was a term used often in the formative years of O cessful,a with about 50 percent of the club's member- Canadian Mountaineering when European ship attending a camp. Due to the popularity of hiking hguides, and soon the world, discovered Banff, putting r camp in the Northern Purcells, it ran as two one week ,the Canadian Rockies and Canada as a mountaineer- t camps with a total of 45 people attending. ting destination, "on the map:' o Climbing camp drew fewer members, with a total Webster's, in definition 3A, states vicissitude, h of ofifteen attending. The '85 climbing camp was held "an alteration or variation in fortune': As used in e in qthe Coast Range for the first time, so given the those halyeon days, the word underscored the often distance from home, the turnout was good. suddenv and sometimes fatal variations in fortune, u Neville Jordison is presently in Calgary after i(sometimes anticipated and sometimes not), which i many years service as Social Chairman. Thanks to ccould befall those engaged in activities in the moun- c tains. Vicissitudes. Neville for his well organized and varied program. i Welcomek aboard to Dave Adams whom I recall has It wasn't planned that way, but many of the ar- s beenl in this position before. ticles in Karabiner '85 deal to varying degrees with s y 4 i t u d e s o f m o u n t a i n l i f e ! V i c i s s i t u d e sudden changes in fortune encountered in the moun- mountain, was not operating due to the abominable tains, ranging the gamut from the sometimes amusing, conditions. (interfacing with Nepalese porters and guides in But about an hour later we learned the Seventh Tribulations in the Himalayas), to the dispairing, Heaven Lift had been opened briefly to check on con- (Tragedy on Kanchenjunga). ditons, and that it had promptly been closed after the Reflecting on the material as a whole, the unified obvious had been confirmed. Trouble was, while it message that emerges is, it would seem to be wor- was open, two customers had gone up, so the hill thwhile if at more regular intervals we all reviewed our would have to be swept by the patrol. own levels of preparedness to deal with the vicissitudes When the call came out over the radio, my partner we potentially might encounter, in settings we either and I were the closest to the lift, so we volunteed to voluntarily or involuntarily find ourselves in "out pull sweep duty. As we rode up the steep slope into the there" The message is one which holds true be we day white, snow-choked void, we joked, figuring with a hikers, downhill skiiers, or climbers of peaks in the radar set and luck, we just might make it down off the Himalayas. top of the mountain in a half an hour. With our youth L' Chayim, (to life), and relative inexperience, we had only a limited ap- and oh, yes, may you enjoy this year's Karabiner. preciation of the situation we were about to enter into as we slid down the off ramp, probing ahead with our ski poles to find the verge between snow and sky. The top of Barrier Mountain was a large alpine bowl, and we had no intention of venturing out into it. Instead, for depth perception we would ski next to the treeline on the side of the bowl. Anxious to try and warm up a little after the chair ride, I pushed off first nsde down the steep slope, coming to a stop after skiing about 30 metres. My partner was defogging his gog- gles and I expected him to come along shortly. Somewhat mindfull of the risk factors now, I stood in Story the downslope lee of the treeline off the main slope and waited. It would not be wise to become separated by Jeff Ross in these conditions and perhaps 30 metres was already too much distance between us. In a couple more minutes I ventured about three or four metres beyond the trees out Onto the very steep margin of the bowl for o new snow had fallen for at least a week and a a "clear shot" to yell into the gloom for my partner, half, and the main runs were like boilerplate but I got no response."Wel1,111 try again in a couple with unskiable crust in the trees. However, by more minutes," I thought. Standing in the white week's end, a major Pacific front nudged up against nothingness my mind wandered, thinking of any the Cascades, producing a snowfall of over two feet of number of things more pleasant than my current space light powder, and the prospect of some fine skiing.