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A Number of New Ice Climbs Were Dis- Covered and Climbed in the Winter Season

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A Number of New Ice Climbs Were Dis- Covered and Climbed in the Winter Season 194 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1981 Ice Climbing in Colorado. A number of new ice climbs were dis- covered and climbed in the winter season. Several icicles were found in Paradise Creek Canyon near Rifle. Jim Balog, Jim Logan and Jon Krakauer climbed Parachute. They ascended three pitches of 80’ to overhanging ice; a tube or chimney of lacy ice capped by an overhanging curtain was the crux. The climb was thought to be harder than Bridal- veil. Bridalveil Falls, one of Colorado’s classic winter ice climbs and one of the most important ice climbs of the 197Os, has recently been the scene of controversy. The falls, which run over property controlled by the Idorado Mining Company, have been climbed numerous times since the 1976-1977 season. However, since mid-winter of 1979, Idorado has re- stricted access to the falls. Although Bridalveil Falls lie within a national forest, the company owns patented mining claims for the land and has a legal right to prevent people from using it. On February 20 Kevin Cooney and Tom Pulaski made the approach to the falls under the cover of dark- ness (the mining company has taken to posting guards near the entry), climbed it and descended to tind the sheriff waiting, ticket in hand. At a court hearing, Cooney was sentenced to a $250 fine, seven days in jail, or two years’ probation. MICHAEL KENNEDY Mount Alice, East Face, Rocky Mountain National Park, 1978. I made the first ascent solo of a new line on the right side of the east face of Mount Alice in August, 1978 (NCCS V, F9, A2). The route takes the crack line that diagonals up and slightly left. It had been previously attempted by unknown climbers. I did nine roped pitches, then unroped and climbed some 350 feet (up to F9) to the summit scree. The route went 90% free. JAMES BEYER CANADA Yukon Territory Mount Logan and Mount Kennedy. Climbing activity in Kluane National Park was again up this year. We had 30 groups made up of 158 people spending a total of 3693 man-days in the park. Five parties climbed the King Trench route of Mount Logan successfully: Canadians Dave Wood, Thomas Pulaski, Rick Hum, Dave King, Art Burrows and Paul Parker; Canadians Siegfried Noestaller, Walter Burns, Dominic Niehaus and Reinhold Plankensteiner; Canadians Martyn Williams, Hec- tor McKenzie, Bob Jickling, John Solem, Gordon Blanz, Russel Patrick and Mike Beedel; Swiss Kurt Hegglin, Franz Stocker, Hans Studer, Hans- Beat Siiss and Hans Renggli; and Canadians Roland Reader, Peter Mix, CLIMBS AND EXPEDITIONS 195 Stanley Rosenbaum and James H. Whitteker. Six groups climbed the east ridge: Canadians William Norrie, Paul Zimmerman, Tom Saunders and David Pors; Canadians Christopher Kubinski, Rick Engman, Leonard Potter and Columb Puttick; Canadians Kevin O’Connell, David Hobill, Saul Greenberg, Howard Bussey, Carl Lund and Paul Ritzema; Cana- dians Gerald Holdsworth, France Fux, Mike Maxwell and Robert Oruig; Canadians Rob Kelly, Peter Charkin, Pete Ford and Patrick Paul; and Canadians Willie Pfeisterer, Tim Auger, Peter Perrin, Murray Hindle, Tom Davidson, Chuck Hume, Ron Chambers, Rick Staley, Doug Burles and Lloyd Freese. Americans Franz Mohling, Paul O‘Sullivan, Jim Bock, Sarah Chaney, Chuck Huss and Tom Masterson successfully climbed the Centennial Ridge of Mount Logan but did not go on to the summit. Three groups climbed Mount Kennedy via the Cathedral Glacier: Americans James Eason, Peter Hoose, Linda Laterneau, John Murphy, Tim Neale and Tracy Sheer; Japanese Akira Nakamura, Hideo Saito, Kougo Sato, Shingo Yamamori, Masao Abe and Kautoshi Onishi; and Japanese Hide- hiro Sugawara, Kiyoshi Yamakawa, Masaru Watanabe and Katsuhiro Sasaki. LLOYD FREESE, Kluane National Park Mount Hubbard. Andy Williams of Alcan Air had said that we should not be distressed to see clear weather at Kluane Lake and still not be able to fly because of bad weather in the mountains proper. His warning kept recurring in our minds as we basked in the sun on Kluane Lake from May 18 to 24. By 3:30 P.M. on May 24 Peter Hoose, Linda Letourneau, John Murphy, Tim Neale, Tracy Sheer and I were busy setting up camp and sorting gear at 6400 feet on the Cathedral Glacier, which was to serve as Base Camp. En route, Hoose and I were landed at 7800 feet on the south arm of the Kaskawulsh Glacier where we placed a ten-days’ food and fuel cache for our return ski trip. We began the ascent of the lower icefall of the Cathedral about noon on the 25th. Camp II was established that evening at the base of the upper icefall at 8400 feet. The third day, in deference to the extreme heat beneath the cloudless blue skies, which were to continue for 13 of the next 14 days, we delayed leaving camp until six P.M. We found the route through the west side of the upper icefall to be straightforward and fast. We estab- lished our high camp at 10,500 feet, beneath the large snow bowl leading east toward Mount Kennedy. On May 27 we left about noon for what was an unsuccessful 9%-hour round-trip attempt to reach the summit of Kennedy. We were able to reach a prominent bergschrund 400 feet below the summit on the south face of the summit pyramid. On May 29, after a day’s rest, we started back up the bowl above us to look at a route we had seen two days before which led between high serac fields on the northwest face of Mount Hubbard and disappeared toward the north 196 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1981 ridge of Hubbard (first climbed by Poles in August, 1974). Turning left out of the bowl between Hubbard and Alverstone, we ascended the mod- erately steep ramp which threads its way between overhanging seracs, crossed a large, open bergschrund, and soon found ourselves on the east- west-trending plateau which rises to the west to meet Hubbard’s north ridge. Twenty minutes later we stood on Hubbard’s summit (15,015 feet). The following day was spent sitting out a small St. Elias storm. On May 31 we descended to Base Camp. On June 2 we packed our sleds and began the traverse to the Kaskawulsh. We skied 12 miles to place camp at 5000 feet on the Lowell Glacier just at the base of a small feeder glacier which bounds the south side of Ulu Mountain. The next day we skied 11 miles, placing camp west of the Cascade Icefall at 4500 feet near the south entrance to a prominent north-south-oriented pass. The pass was only moderately steep and after two hours we skied out onto the upper Lowell and headed across the glacier to a northwest- southeast-trending pass leading onto the upper Dusty Glacier and the bowl at the head of the south arm of the Kaskawulsh. After 8% miles we camped at 6300 feet three miles east-southeast of our objective can- yon. On June 5 we skied six miles to the pass onto the Dusty Glacier. Camp was placed at 8200 feet at the summit of the pass. The next morning brought an easy three-mile ski down to the 7800-foot cache on the south arm of the Kaskawulsh. June 7 was our last full day on the glacier. Peter Hoose and I went for a climb on the ridge which lies north of Pinnacle Peak. Viewed from our camp, looking west, there are two ridges, a south and a north ridge, which give access to a series of aligned summits along the major ridge. We selected the easternmost summit (lO,OOO+ feet). We approached its north ridge by skiing the ramp and bowl leading to its south-southwest side, which enabled us to ski to with- in 800 feet of the summit. We finished the climb by scrambling up 400 feet of loose scree before using crampons for the final 400 feet of cor- niced ridge. Phil Upton in Alcan Air’s Helio-Courier picked us up early on the 8th. JAMES E. EASON, Mountaineering Club of AIaska Canada-Coast Range “Chutine Peak”, Owens Peak, and Other Peaks of the Stikine Region. When an anticipated trip to Mount Logan fell through at the last moment I began scrambling to rescue something from the summer season. Two years previously my wife Betty and I and three friends had explored a portion of the northern Stikine Icecap from a base camp on Chutine Lake, B.C. (Canadian Alpine Journal, 1979, p. 36). We thoroughly enjoyed the area and knew that it still offered many worthy climbing objectives. We were able to recruit two of the previous trip members, Geoff Faraghan and John Hoiberg, and friends Nathan Hoover, Jason CLIMBS AND EXPEDITIONS I97 Winnett, Les Wilson and his son Chris. On June 27 we were back in our old Base Camp at Chutine Lake (950 feet). Poor coastal weather had ruled out the airdrop we wished to do on the icecap. For five days we worked on re-establishing our route to the icecap, making several first ascents of bordering peaks along the way, Finally the weather cleared and the plane returned to the airdrop. Food and fuel sufficient for ten days were dropped on the edge of the icecap at 6600 feet. We left Base Camp and reached the airdrop twenty-four hours later. After picking up the supplies, we set off on skis for a 40-mile loop east of the international boundary. Much of the time glacial fog swirled around us and we were forced to navigate by compass.
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