Vitoria, University of Past and Future

"As far as we, the Basques, are concerned, it is true that we were not the people chosen by Jehovah, by nature the chosen people, but nevertheless we do have five fingers on each hand, and a heart and ARGÓMANIZ soul..." And Its Parador Aranzadi. The Problem with Basque Ethnography

T he origins of are uncertain, although definitely very remote. As in the case of the rest of the Basque provinces, it seems highly likely that these could date back to over two thousand years before Christ, when Noah's legendary grandson, Tubal, reached this area.

According to ancient records –records which have been questioned, but never discarded, by historians– the so-called Tubals crossed the Pyrenees and came down onto the plains to settle in Navarre and Vasconia. "This would have been the origin of Euskera as the peninsula's first language," claim some experts, who are not even exclusively Basque.

What we can be sure of is that in Paleolithic times hunters and perhaps even farmers already inhabited these lands. This can be seen in the numerous remains scattered throughout the province, many of which are now on display in the Archaeological Museum of Álava (pottery, weapons, and cave paintings, among other artifacts).

The civilizing power of the Roman conquest reached the area early, at the start of the Christian era. We know that the Roman presence and influence were widespread, more so in Álava than in the northern territories, probably because the land was more hospitable and easier to travel through.

Evidence of the Roman presence on the Álava "plain" is abundant: tombstones; thermal baths such as those in Arcaya; the Trespuentes bridge over the Zadorra River; and the Roman road, or oppidum, at Iruña, just 11 kilometers from Vitoria.

After centuries of Romanization and Christianity, the much feared but also beneficial Muslim invasion also reached this area. At that time, Álava occupied a frontier position, with all the advantages and disadvantages this entails. It lay between two very different cultures: the Christian population to the north engaged in the Reconquest, and the peoples of the south who had become Arabized, but who were perhaps attracted by the habits and customs of a more refined culture, by commercial development and new technological advances. From that time on, the history of the lands of Álava merges with and becomes part of the passage of History itself. We are now in the Middle Ages, post-Conquest and Reconquest. We are traveling the Pilgrimage Route of St. James. These are confusing times –never quite as dark as is commonly believed– decades filled with conflict, and always uncertain. These are times of war, of Christian against Christian, of a continuous struggle between the monarchies of Navarre and those of Castile.

These were the times of what has sometimes been called Gothic Vitoria, when the Navarrese king known as Sancho the Wise founded the town of

ARGÓMANIZ AND ITS PARADOR 1 Vitoria to strengthen his position in the Gasteiz area, an through here. According to tradition, hospitals, important center of strategic importance on the Álava post-houses, inns, shops and convents were built by plain. Saint Domingo de Guzmán and Saint Francis Assisi themselves. There was also a prosperous Jewish However, it almost immediately became part of quarter. the Kingdom of Castile in the early 13th century, when King Alfonso VIII confirmed Álava's fueros, From the 16th to 18th centuries, the town or medieval charters, and even increased its experienced great economic prosperity, although it already considerable privileges. was also to experience the disasters of war. Napoleonic troops besieged and conquered Álava, The "Wise" King, Alfonso X, considerably occupying it until 1813, at which time they were expanded the town by building "the streets and expelled with the help of Wellington's armies. It houses needed by the priests and craftsmen." But it would also be subject to a siege by the Carlists. The would be another king, Juan II, who would grant Vitoria of today is a combination of elements from its Vitoria the status of city in 1430 varied past: art, religion, tradition and nobility. It is a city of education and cathedrals. And today it is These were times of great activity. The city was the center of the Basque Autonomous Community's an important market and stopping point for government. merchants and pilgrims. It was not by chance that the wool routes and pilgrims on the Way of St. James passed This "medieval Nuremberg", as Victor Hugo dubbed it, is all of the above, and much more.

Parador of Saints, Pilgrims and Other Demons

the blind who were not so blind, or beggars who shared out the T his magnificent Renaissance palace, now a Parador, is pilgrims' alms amongst themselves." located in Argómaniz, near Vitoria, a crossroads of cultures and civilizations, of wars and splendors, whose past has been crucial the Here the soil has always been generous and fertile for the shaping of the present. cultivation of many myths and legends, such as the legend of San Martinico: The visitor to Argómaniz should not expect to find great treasures or wonders of a brilliant past, which it never knew. Its streets bring to "In Ataún, they say that the Baxajaun (a type of devil or spirit, mind those of a nearly uninhabited village. Built as an estate for the lords of the forest) guarded the mysterious secrets of wheat cultivation. Iruraiz brotherhood, part of the Salvatierra group, it has been One day, a brave man, who would later become San Martinico, risked abandoned on many occasions since the time of Alfonso XI. visiting them in the cave where they lived. Fighting with the spirits and devils (no one really knows what they were) he deliberately fell into a Nonetheless, Argómaniz as a Parador offers its guests an pile of wheat to fill his shoes with the seeds (...) In this way, he was exceptional setting in which to recall, encounter, and better able to carry some of the precious grain back to the village. So, in understand a past which is still present. spite of all their efforts, the Baxajaun could no longer prevent the cultivation of wheat from spreading throughout the world..." Through these lands have passed Romans, Moors, Christians and Jews. This has been the scene of wars and a crossroads for caravans But the exploits of Saint Martinico did not end here. He also traveling to and fro between Flanders managed to snatch from the same and France and the ports of the spirits or devils the secrets of making Cantabrian coast. saws and welding iron, and the mysteries of mill building. For pilgrims traveling on the Way of Saint James, Vitoria was an obligatory The traveler will have as many meeting point as the roads from the opportunities as he or she may desire San Adrián tunnel and Salvatierra to enjoy the history and stories that joined, continuing on to Burgos and have been lived and relived in these Santo Domingo de la Calzada... "men parts. who make their pilgrimages to serve God and honor the saints," according That is what this Parador is like, a to King Alfonso X, the Wise. However, balcony looking out over the past, all were not saints, according to other while seeking to extend (maybe even documents which recount that these peer?) into the future. It dominates places were "schools of false cripples, the plain, as if to protect Vitoria-

2 ARGÓMANIZ AND ITS PARADOR Gasteiz, with Vitoria's hills forming a cloak around it. Some changes have been made to the interior of the Parador, although without losing sight of the original appearance. The ceiling The building has only been a Parador since 1978. This magnificent of what used to be the loft, now a large lounge and dining room, is Renaissance palace belonged to the large and influential Larrea family. particularly noteworthy. Juan de Larrea y Larrea rose to become a minister in the High Council of Castile during the time of King Felipe IV, the 17th century. Guests will immediately notice that all the beams, which are the He was also a professor at the University of Salamanca and a member only roof support, are exposed. The huge main beams rest on rows of of the Royal Treasury Council, as well as a knight of the Order of St. solid wooden pillars, each cut from a single trunk. It is also interesting James. to note that this framework is held together with wooden nails.

His son, Juan de Larrea Enayo, also performed high-level functions Both in the Parador and in the nearby village of Argómaniz, the in the court of King Carlos II, was a Knight of the Order of Calatrava, locals claim that when a loft, the area was originally used as a and also a member of the Council of the Indies. granary, and was the place where corn was stored and threshed, keeping it out of the wet weather that is frequent in the region. A This noble building also appears to have been a convent and shelter miniature thresher hangs on the wall as if to prove that such work was for the Discalced Carmelites at the instigation of one of the bishops done here in the past. born into this illustrious family. However, the Parador was already a palace as early as 1712. The numerous and illustrious visitors who frequent and have The building is relatively rectangular and is covered by an Arab-tile frequented the Parador include Ardanza, Pujol, Urralburu and Borrel, hip roof. The walls are of sandstone ashlar alternating with masonry. the presidents of Andorra and Aquitaine, painters, artists, and writers. The wood used for the carpentry work, still well preserved even today, Neither they nor any other visitor have been able to was cut in the oak forests of the Encia and Urbasa Mountains. fathom the mystery of the thresher. What animal would have been small enough to pull the tiny thresher in such a beautiful but small The Palace is three stories high, as is common in domestic space? Might it have been a goat? Might it have been a small donkey? architecture in Álava. However, it does have some characteristics peculiar to buildings for the nobility, such as, for example, the Perhaps it was the Baxajaun elves or demons themselves who came absences of eaves. This is possibly because such a solid and elegant this far to show the mortals the secrets of cultivating wheat... structure does not need this extra protection.

Gothic and Neo-classical Gasteiz

1. Old Cathedral of Santa María. 14th-century Gothic. 6 2. El Portalón. 15th-century inn. 2 3. Palace of the Escoriaza-Esquivel family. With a 4 11 Renaissance courtyard. 1

4. Doña Ochanda Tower. Tower and palace built in the 5 3 16th century. 13 5. Church of San Pedro. Built in the 14th century, with a Gothic façade. 6. Tower of the Anda family. 7 8 7. New Cathedral. Neo-Gothic. 8. Plaza de la Virgen Blanca. Square with a monument 9 commemorating the battle of Vitoria. 9. La Florida Park. Dating to 1820. 10. Ajuria Enea Palace. Home of the president of the 12 Basque government. 14 11. Archeological Museum. 10 12. Fine Arts Museum. 13. Bendoña Palace. 14. Armory Museum. Shows developments in weaponry from prehistoric times.

ARGÓMANIZ AND ITS PARADOR 3 Bon Appétit! Appetizers include Salads and dishes made with local produce, such as Chard Cooked in Batter; Eggs Scrambled with Tiny E njoy, because that is what a more than Perretxicos Mushrooms; and Snails, almost abundant and generous terrain allows, always served with a sauce. There is also excellent and because the cuisine of Álava has been well Chorizo pork sausage with some of the best loved and well preserved for centuries. Extremely potatoes in ; or Broad Beans with Ham; varied, and at times unorthodox, such is its Lettuce Hearts; Black Beans from Tolosa; diversity, and its uniqueness. and Purrusalda Soup.

This variety is the result of the virtues of Local meat dishes deserve their excellent contrasting land and climates. The Cantabrian reputation. Meat is often prepared in stews: grasslands thrive next to the plains watered by Pochas Beans with Quail, Oxtail, Beef Stew, the . From the mountains to the plains, Osso Buco... anything is possible in this setting: from the hills, from the gardens, from rivers and valleys, Lovers of game, even if only on a plate, need and the nearby sea. look no further: we are on a route followed by numerous migrating birds. There are also wild As the locals say, "Around here there's boar and roe deer in abundance in the always plenty, and it's good. For those who mountainous areas. want to try it, that's fine by us, and for those who don't, that's fine, too!" There is excellent fish, both Basque and served in the Basque style: Monkfish or Turbot in This is another example of the generous Green Sauce, Hake with Shellfish, cod hospitality with which visitors are received, or prepared in a multitude of styles, Cod or Hake rather welcomed. Almost without trying, they Cheeks in Pil-Pil sauce, or Piquillo immediately become one of the family, and that Peppers with Baby Squid. is saying something. If there is enough time, it is well worth venturing It should not be forgotten that noble and further afield to try other typical local dishes: Roast cultured people have populated this area for Lamb in Peñacerrada, Capons in Aramaiona, centuries, although they are far too modest and hospitable to let it Roast Potatoes in Valle de Arana. In the Álava section of La Rioja, show. This is reflected in the cuisine, for which they are known the try Lamb Chops Grilled over Vine Shoots, or fried peppers. The world over. "To be a chef here is not just a profession. It is also a way reception staff at the Parador can give you further information and of life." Or even an art form. directions.

The gastronomic societies are an interesting example of the The wines of this part of La Rioja are also a must, as are the importance of food to this region. These are reserved exclusively for cheeses made in the nearby mountains, and the many desserts: Pears men, although in more recent times some women have come to join in Wine, Intxursaltsa (made with milk and walnuts), Coxua them at table, but only on special occasions, with certain reservations: Sponge Cake with Cream, and Delicia Vasca (a very special type it all depends. of milk curd dessert). The Parador's spectacular lounge and dining room, located in what was once the Larrea Palace loft and granary, offers an excellent and extremely varied sampling of local cuisine. The diner's only problem is choosing from amongst such a large and tempting selection of dishes.

Along Romanesque Roads

herever the traveler may go, whatever turnings one takes, W there is always a pleasant surprise in store. Wander through the exceptional Romanesque Álava nearby, on the plain itself, or in search of lakes to the northeast on the edge of the other Basque territories; or perhaps towards the Upper Ebro or the oak and beech woods to the south; or amongst the olive groves, gardens and vineyards of this part of Rioja. The Parador can always offer more specific good advice, but the following are some of our suggestions:

4 ARGÓMANIZ AND ITS PARADOR Around Vitoria. Taking the A-4312, we visit the tower of the Ayala Valley. We take the highway which leads to the Hurtado de Mendoza family (Martioda) and the Mendoza Tower, A-68. There are several excursions from Murguía up Mount where the Heraldry Museum is located. On to Trespuentes and the Gorbea. The Nuestra Señora de Oro Monastery is nearby. The Iruña Oppidum. From here we take the dramatic Gujuli Falls can be visited along the Murgía to Izarra N-1 towards Vitoria as far as the Estella junction to visit the Basilica road. Orduña is also close by, from which we visit the sanctuary of of Estíbaliz (12th-century Romanesque). Then on to Gaceo to Nuestra Señora de la Angigua. From Orduña we head to Amurrio. admire the Gothic paintings of its church. In Arrízala we visit the Then to Quejana, a historic center and cradle of the Ayala family. Sorginetxe Dolmen and continue on to Salvatierra to stroll through Quejana has an ethnographic museum. the medieval quarter. If we turn off and head to Zalduondo, we can walk to San Adrián tunnel, part of the Way of Saint James. There are Western Valleys. We take the Madrid road and then turn off several yacht clubs on the banks of the Zadorra Reservoir. towards , heading for Subijana to visit the Cuartango Valley. Then via Pobes we reach Salinas de Añana (salt Gorbea Reservoirs. We take the road, turning off at pans which have been worked since Roman times). Following the Gopegi. The Gorbea reservoirs are nearby. We take the N-240 at road, we reach Valdegobía Valley (where there is an interesting Murua for Otxandiano. On to Olaeta, below the Amboto Crags, Romanesque church in Tuesta, and the Luyando and Hurtado de towards the beautiful countryside of the Aramayona Valley. Cruceta Mendoza Towers in Espejo). Further on, we find the Shrine of Pass to Villarreal takes us past the Urrúnaga Reservoir bathing and Nuestra Señora de Angosto (with a 16th-century altar-piece). In recreational area. Ollerías has a museum of traditional Basque Villanueva de Valdegobía, there are several interesting walks pottery. through the Valderejo Nature Reserve, rich in flora and fauna.

Parador de Argómaniz Ctra. N-1, Km. 363. 01192 Argómaniz (Vitoria) Tel.: +34 945 29 32 00 - Fax: +34 945 29 32 87 e-mail: [email protected] Reservation Center Requena, 3. 28013 Madrid (España) Tel.: 902 54 79 79 - Fax: 902 52 54 32 www.parador.es / e-mail: [email protected] wap.parador.es/wap/

Text: Miguel García Sánchez Design: Fernando Aznar

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