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F rom Contro ve r sy to C o m p romise to Coopera t i o n : The Administra t i ve History of C a n y onlands National Pa r k Samuel J. Schmieding, Ph.D F r om Contro v ersy to C o m p r omise to Coopera t i o n F rom Contro ve r sy to C o m p romise to Coopera t i o n : The Administra t i ve History of C a n y onlands National Pa r k Samuel J. Schmieding, Ph.D National Park Service, 2008 Samuel J. Schmieding, Ph.D, biographical information/academic affiliations etc. Copyright page Cover: Bates Wilson at Shafer Point looking at the Colorado River an the eastern part of the Canyonlands Basin. C 36552.223, SEUG Photographic Archives Design and layout by Randolph Jorgen Conte n t s vi • List of Illustrations ix • Acknowledgments xi • Chronology of Important Events 1 • Introduction 13 • Chapter One—Finding Terra Incognita: The Exploration and Settlement of Canyon Country 47 • Chapter Two—Defining Canyon Country: Natural Bridges to the Escalante and Beyond 81 • Chapter Three—Contested Place: The Political Creation of Canyonlands National Park 117 • Chapter Four—Starting from Scratch: The Foundation of Canyonlands National Park 155 • Chapter Five—Changing Directions: Canyonlands in the Age of Environmentalism 193 • Chapter Six—Surviving the 1980s: External Threats to the Park and Reorganization 233 • Chapter Seven—Reaching Maturity: Park Development, Salt Creek, and Learning the Resource 277 • Afterword 285 • Appendix A—Canyonlands National Park visitation 286 • Appendix B—Canyonlands Complex/Southeast Utah Group visitation 287 • Appendix C—Visitation at Cave Springs and The Neck, 1963–1964 287 • Appendix D—Canyonlands National Park, visitation by types of visit 288 • Appendix E— Visitation on Bureau of Land Management lands 289 • Appendix F—Visitation at Dead Horse Point State Park 289 • Appendix G—Visitation at Newspaper Rock State Park 290 • Appendix H—Grazing allotments, Canyonlands National Park 291 • Appendix I— Mineral, oil, and gas leases, Canyonlands National Park 292 • Appendix J— Road inventory, Needles District 293 • Appendix K—Road inventory, Island in the Sky District 293 • Appendix L— Road inventory, Maze District 295 • Bibliography 305 • Index Illustrations Note:The terms “Canyon Lands” and “Canyonlands” are used in the list of illustrations and in the narra- tive.The former refers to both the canyon country of southeast Utah and the region near the confluence of the Green and Colorado Rivers before the 1964 creation of Canyonlands National Park.The latter term was the proper name used to reference the park and region after that time. Figures 1 1857 G. K.Warren map of trans-Mississippi American West • 16 2 Images of Canyon Lands from 1859 Macomb Expedition • 19 3 1860 C. H. Dimmock map of Canyon Lands and Southeast Utah • 20 4 John Wesley Powell • 20 5 Thomas Moran lithograph of Powell Expedition on Colorado River • 22 6 Thomas Moran lithograph of Buttes of the Cross • 21 7 Images of “Land of Standing Rocks” from Powell expeditions • 24 8 Thomas Moran and William Henry Holmes images of Grand Canyon • 26 9 Geologic drawing of Canyon Lands region • 28 10 1886 Clarence Dutton map of Colorado Plateau • 27 11 Rancher John Scorup • 32 12 Ranch house in San Rafael Desert • 33 13 Junction Dam site • 35 14 Emery Kolb photograph of “The Land of Standing Rocks” • 36 15 Willis Lee photograph of Owachomo Bridge • 48 16 Windows formation near Moab • 51 17 U. S. Geological Survey sketch and photograph of Canyon Lands • 53 18 1935 NPS map of Lower Colorado River Exclusion zone • 55 19 1936 map of proposed Escalante National Monument • 56 20 Aerial images of Canyon Lands from Escalante surveys • 59 21 1938 map of proposed Escalante National Monument • 59 22 Ranching in Canyon Lands • 63 23 1944 map of proposed Grandview National Park • 65 24 1936 Wilderness Society map of roadless areas in United States • 62 25 Needles formation in Interior Department report • 66 26 Dark Canyon Dam site • 68 27 Map of Upper Colorado River Basin reservoir sites • 68 28 Bates Wilson and Alan “Tug” Wilson • 83 29 Needles region • 84 30 Glen Canyon before Lake Powell • 87 31 Road building in Canyon Lands region • 85 vi 32 1959 National Park Service survey of Needles region • 90 33 Kent Frost and Canyon Lands • 91 34 1960 NPS survey of “Land of Standing Rocks” • 93 35 1960 map of Utah State Parks proposals in Canyon Country • 95 36 Helicopter on 1961 Interior Department survey • 96 37 Frank Moss, Bates Wilson, and Stewart Udall • 96 38 1961 Interior Department map of proposed national park • 98 39 1961 National Park Service map of proposed national park • 98 40 Lynn Fausett paintings of Canyon Lands • 101 41 Charles Eggert filming in Canyon Lands • 102 42 1963 map of proposed Canyonlands National Park • 43 1964 map of Canyonlands National Park • 104 44 1965 photograph of Canyonlands Complex staff • 119 45 Tangren homestead at Anderson Bottom • 121 46 1964 map of oil and gas leases in Canyonlands National Park • 122 47 Historic map of cattle ranching in Canyonlands region • 123 48 Missile launch safety and evacuation zones • 124 49 Early Canyonlands infrastructure • 125 50 Electrical generation and well drilling • 126 51 Road construction in Island in the Sky District • 127 52 Proposed visitor center at Squaw Flat • 129 53 Map of development concepts for Canyonlands National Park • 128 54 1965 Utah Department of Transportation map of Canyon Country • 130 55 Four-wheel-drive vehicle on road in Chesler Park • 131 56 NPS survey team in Virginia Park • 136 57 Proposed Squaw Flat-to-Confluence road • 138 58 Proposal for expanding Canyonlands National Park • 142 59 Canyonlands Complex Superintendent Robert Kerr • 156 60 Kirk Cabin in Upper Salt Creek Canyon • 157 61 Grazing allotments in expanded Canyonlands National Park • 158 62 Grazing and fencing • 159 63 Island in the Sky visitor contact station • 160 64 Maze District facilities at Hans Flat • 162 65 Electrical generation and water storage facilities at Hans Flat • 163 66 Maze District geography • 162 67 Apartment building at Hans Flat • 165 68 Transportation concepts for Greater Canyonlands Region • 168 69 Road survey marker at Big Spring Canyon • 169 70 Archeological resources • 170 71 Calm and white water recreation • 172 72 Canyonlands Complex Superintendent Peter Parry • 175 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS vii 73 Wilderness plan for Canyonlands National Park • 179 74 Development plans from 1978 Canyonlands General Management Plan • 177 75 National map of potential sites for nuclear waste repository • 194 76 Southeast Utah map of potential sites for nuclear waste repository • 195 77 Activities at Davis Canyon nuclear waste repository site • 196 78 Exploration activities at Davis Canyon site • 197 79 Exploratory shaft for Davis Canyon repository • 197 80 Nuclear waste repository concept • 201 81 Bumper sticker opposing Canyonlands nuclear waste repository • 204 82 Audibility impacts from repository on visitors to Canyonlands • 205 83 Tar sands deposits in Utah • 206 84 River runners at Potash on Colorado River • 208 85 Trash from Friendship Cruise • 209 86 NPS patrol boats at Canyonlands • 210 87 NPS fly camp at Spanish Bottom • 211 88 Damage from all-terrain vehicles • 211 89 Backcountry foot trail issues • 212 90 Archeological resources • 214 91 Historic resources • 215 92 Southeast Utah Group Superintendent Harvey Wickware • 217 93 Southeast Utah Group Superintendent Walt Dabney • 234 94 Existing facilities in Needles District • 235 95 “Alternative A” for proposed development in Needles District • 236 96 Completed Needles District visitor center • 237 97 Proposed developments in Needles District • 239 98 Backcountry motor vehicle road issues • 240 99 Backcountry foot trail issues • 242 100 Angel Arch and Angel Arch Canyon road • 243 101 Vehicle access issues in Salt Creek Canyon • 243 102 Road in Lower and Middle Salt Creek Canyon • 246 103 Virginia Park closure sign and Jasper Canyon • 244 104 Desert bighorn sheep • 249 105 Backcountry infrastructure • 256 106 Cryptobiotic soil and pothole ecology • 252 107 Archeological resources • 253 108 Canyonlands completion project • 258 109 Potash mining and processing plant • 259 110 NPS jet boat on Colorado River • 255 viii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Acknowledgments Any major history project requires cooperation and before 1965), and the Federal Records Center assistance from many different people and institu- (FRC) which had records for Canyonlands from tions, as well as the understanding of family and 1965 to the present. NARA’s holdings could not friends. This history of Canyonlands National Park have been navigated without help from NARA has been no exception and could not have been archivists Eric Bittner, Richard Martinez and Marene completed without help from the respective staffs Baker,and the FRC staff, especially John Mangers and of the archives researched, the project’s oral histo- Martha Bell. Also in the Federal Center, the United ry interviewees, the National Park Service (NPS) States Geologic Survey library and photographic Southeast Utah Group (SEUG) in Moab, Utah, the archives proved helpful, and I give thanks to former NPS Intermountain Region (IMR) Office and NPS p h o t o g r a phic archivist Joe McGre go r, fo r m e r Technical Information Center (TIC) in Lakewood, archivist/librarian Carol Edwards, and present photo Colorado, the NPS-IMR Support Office in Santa Fe, archivist Colleen Allen. New Mexico, and the staff of Canyonlands National Park. Dr.Art Gomez from the NPS-IMR support office in Santa Fe provided invaluable insight on the project’s My gratitude must first extend to the Southeast outline and intellectual content, and aided my com- Utah Group. Eric Brunnemann, former chief of the munications with NPS personnel. Barbara Stanis- SEUG Cultural Resources Division, and Jerry Banta, lawski, former IMR support office librarian helped former SEUG superintendent, asked me to do this with pre-Canyonlands NPS history in Utah by pro- history based on my dissertation.
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