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Coniferous Forests of the Sierra Nevada. I. John Muir

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Coniferous Forests of the Sierra Nevada. I. John Muir University of the Pacific Scholarly Commons John Muir: A Reading Bibliography by Kimes John Muir Papers 9-1-1881 Coniferous Forests of the Sierra Nevada. I. John Muir Follow this and additional works at: https://scholarlycommons.pacific.edu/jmb Recommended Citation Muir, John, "Coniferous Forests of the Sierra Nevada. I." (1881). John Muir: A Reading Bibliography by Kimes. 199. https://scholarlycommons.pacific.edu/jmb/199 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the John Muir Papers at Scholarly Commons. It has been accepted for inclusion in John Muir: A Reading Bibliography by Kimes by an authorized administrator of Scholarly Commons. For more information, please contact [email protected]. THE CONIFEROUS FORESTS OF THE SIERRA NEVAn.\ . ! . VI EW IN TIH: SIE I,RA I'OR!i:ST. 'J'H E coniferous forests of the Sierra ' and significance of these glorious fon·, l·· Nevada are the noblest and most bea utiful manifested in the harmonies of th L· Ir ,J on earth. So short a time, however, has bution and varying aspects throug h• •"; elapsed since they were first discovered, ! seasons, as they stand arrayed 111 and so few comprehensive explorations have winter garb rejoicing in storms. 1 '"". been made, that they are as yet but little forth their fresh leaves in the SJll'ln g " 1 known. Thousands of appreciative travelers steaming with resiny fragrance, or rcpH'· 1 have beheld them in the distance, stretching heavy-laden with ripe cones in the n<1 1 · " ' darkly along th e range, the snow-clad sum­ gold of autumn. for knowledge "I II mits towering imposin gly above them, the kind one must elwell 11·ith the trees :l iHI ; ~ ' ' great central plain of California outspread with them, ll'ithout any reference to t ' "'' beneath ; ;md manr have passed through the mechanical sense. the lower ;1nd middle zo nes on their way to The distribution of the gener;li lr •I• 1 1 Vos..:mitc .Yallc v, obtai ning' fin e glimpses of zones is readily perceived. 'L'hest· n 1' • the yell ow and suga r pines and sil ver-firs in regular order, from one extremlt.1 ' ·! along the ,~ d ges of roads and trails; but range to the other, a distance of nc;Irl' fe w, indeed, h;11·e gon e hr enough, and hundred miles; and ho wever d c 11 " remained lon g enough, to · gain anything somber they may appear in gen ..: r;d 1 1' •·· lik e ;1 f:1ir conn ~ pti o n of the real grandeur neithe r on the rocky heights nor rl"" ' 1 rJ ft, 7 '-/7 ·- THE CONIFEROUS FORESTS OF THE SIERRA NEVADA. 711 ·- -·- ----·-· -------- --- -- the leafiest hollows will you find anything th e lower fringe of the fores t, composed of to remind you -of th e clank, malarial sdvas small oaks and pines, planted so far apart of the Amazon and Orinoco, with their that not one-twentieth of the surface of the boundless contiguity of shade, nor of the ground is in shade at clear noon-day. After monotonous uniformity of the Deodar for­ advancing fifteen or twenty miles, and ests of the Himalaya. The giant pines, making an ascent of from tii'O to three thou­ ·. and firs , and sequoias hold their arms wide sand feet, you reach the lower margin of th e . open to the sunlight, rising above one main pine- belt, composed of the gigantic ·: another o'n the mountain benches, marshaled sugar-pine, yellow-pine, Douglas spruce, most imposing array, each species keeping incense-cedar, and sequoia. Next you come Ol\'11 appointed place, and giving forth to the magnificent silver-fir belt, and lastly utmost expression of tree grandeur and to the upper pine belt, which sweeps up the with inexhaustible variety and bar- rocky acclivities of the alps in a dwarfed, wavering fringe to a height of from ten to inviting :openness of the Sierra woods twelve thousand feet. one of their most distingui shing char­ It appears, therefore,. that the trees form­ All ·· the species stand more or ing the upper and lower margins of the apart in · groves or small, irregular general forest are somewhat alike, dwarfed enabling one to find a way nearly and scattered l>y snow and frost, drought along sunny colonnades and and sun-fire, while colossal proportions are openings that have a smooth, park­ attained only in the middle regions, where surface, strewn with brown needles and both soil and climate are most favorable. Now you ·cross a wild garden, no11· This general order of distribution, with w, now . a ferny, willowy stream; reference to climate dependent on elevation, ever and anon you emerge from all the is perceived at once, but there are other har­ and fiow ers ·upon some granite pave­ monies, as far-reaching in this connection, that or high, bare ridge, commanding glori­ become manifest only after patient observa­ views above the waving sea of ever­ tion and study. Perhaps the most interesting far and nea'r. of these is the arrangement of the forests in One would experience but little difficulty long, curving bands, braided together into riding on horseback through the succes­ lace-like patterns, and outspread in charming belts, all the way up to the storm-beaten variety from one end of the range to the of the alps. The deep, precipitous other. The key to this singularly beautiful however, that come down from the harmony is the ancient glaciers; where they of the range, at intervals of eight flowed the trees followed, tracing their . ten miles, cut the belts more or les:; wavering courses along canons, over ridges, ly into sections, and prevent the over high rolling plateaus. The cedars of traveler from tracing them length- Lebanon, says Hooker, are growing upon one of the moraines of an ancient glacier. simple arrangement in zones and All th e forests of the Sierra are growing s brings the forest, as a whole, within upon moraines. But moraines vanish like comprehension of every observer. The the glaciers that make them. Every storm species are ever found occupying that fall s upon them wastes them, cutting . same relative positions to one another, gaps, disintegrating bowlders, and carrying by their various capabilities, away their decaying material into new climate, etc. ; and so appreciable are form ations, until at length they are no relations, one need never be at a loss longer recognizable by any save students, · 'ng, within a few hundred feet, who trace their transitional forms down from elevation above sea-level by the trees the fresh moraines still in process of forma­ ; for, notwithstanding so me of the tion, through those th at are more and more range upward for sever:1l thousand ancient, and more and more obscured hy and all pass one another more or kss, vegetation and all kinds of post- glacial those possessing the greatest ver­ weath erin g. are available in this co nnection, These studies in variably show that the as they take on new forms corre­ soils on which th e forests are growing were with the variations in altitude. not produced by th e slow erosion of the g th e level treeless plain s of the atmosph ere, !Jut IJ y the direct mechanical and San Joaquin from the west, action of glaciers, which crushed and ground ng th e Sierra foot-hill s, you enter th em fr om the solid fl ank of the ran ge, and, 7 xz THE CONIFEROUS FORES Y:S OF THF S IFRN/1 NF: t->:1/)/ l :..ThJ ncously from th e fo ot - hill ~ t .. ;1,. """' I .;; ummits, th e il a nk s 11·o ul <i IJ: 01 • l> een left almost l>:n c o f''' " ~' " ; ,,, m:llter, ancl th ese nol> k t; ,,., .. ; " ·mild as yet ha 1-c had n" n i . e nc:e. N umerousgron ·s: 11 1<1 tl .i. · ets 11·oidd uJH loubtedl r h :1 ,.,. ~:r • '" up on lake and aval:1n < iJ , .' 1., ., and ma ny a f:~ ir Hower a n< I ,,J, wo uld h:1ve fo und food ;; 11· : dwellin g place in ll' v :~ti w l ·. nooks and crevi ces, yet th ,· I'""' as a whole would see 111 " J, .,. rock desert. The tatt erl'd :di'" ·· frin ge of the present forest. , , ., , posed of Pi1111s t~ !bicalllis :tl>• l 1 aristaltT, in ma ny ]JlacL·s v\t.-1 ,• above the upper limit of'""" ' i, ,, upon lean, crumbling led ,:_;,· , : ' · wh en they have the <> Jll "•rt"' "' these little trees sho 11· thc11 1' ' ·h. keenly alive to the difti:rL' Il<, · I tween rich mealy mnr:1i11 •· ''". J::UGE 0 1·· 'rt-IE TI M Uim·LI N I:: ON l\IOLINT ~ IIA ST A . and their ordinary mcag<" 1. , T he yellow pine is :1 lso :1 J,_, ,, in their slow recession at the close of the ice­ tree, capable of li ving on sunshi11• · period, left them outspread in bed s available snow, but it assembles in forests, '"'' 1 for tree-growth. For, notwithstanding the tains noble dimensions onl y UJ'"" " '· ' many a ugust implements employed by tious moraines or oth er soi l-beds •J,. ,' Nature as modifiers and reformers of soils, from them; while the sugar-pi n,· ""' ' the glacier thus far has been the only great two silver-firs, which form so i' " l"" ' . producer. But however great the qua ntity part of the main forest belt, c:111 1 ~.
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