Fo r Yo u Wi l l Be Mostly i n Ete rnity

Precedin pa es a nd cover : I M g g invite you to join me , John uir wrote to the ro u nd the w o r d a o me “ ’ A l , H lfD e R E 1 87 1 emin nt alph Waldo merson in , in a month s is th e ide n tifying symb o l of N e I n workshop with ature in the high t mples of the Yose mite Na tio na l Park . th e se v ie ws y o u w itne ss Ha lf great Sierra Crown beyond our holy Yosemite . It o m e ro m G ac ie r Po in t e D f l , will cost you nothing save the tim and very little of wit m assive El Capitan in $ h E e . that , for you will be mostly in t rnity Muir , the th e o re r o u nd and ro m f g , f pioneering conservationist and naturalist , had gravi ose mite a e res e c tive . Y V ll y , p ly tate d 1 868 e Th e c o ve r sh o ws a dista n t to Yosemite in as a sheeph rder and e - f- all - Ha lfDo m e aglo w fro m th e stay d on as sawyer and j ack o trades for Yosem F - M o u r ile Trail to Gla c ie r ite Valley innkeeper and guide James Mason Hutch Po in t . M ings . John uir and Yosemite : It was love at first M sight , and the energy appeared to be mutual . uir enjoyed a spiritual fusion and personal ide ntity with “ N Yosemite . o temple made with hands can com E pare with Yosemite . very rock in its walls seems to

glow with life . Some lean back in maj e stic repose ;

others , absolutely sheer or nearly so for thousands of e feet , advance b yond their companions in thought

ful attitudes , giving welcome to storms and calms e alike , seemingly conscious , yet heedl ss of every n m imm o . o v a thing going about them Awful in ste ,

ble majesty , how softly these mountain rocks are adorned and how fine and reassuring the company $ L — . M they keep ife , personality , consciousness uir found the se qualities in what most perceived as “ ’ inanimate nature . You ll find me rough as the $ “ h e rocks , wrote to a friend , and about the same

color granite . No r did Yosemite disappoint Emerson : This val ley is the only place that comes up to th e brag about $ ’ e e it , and xce ds it , he said . The philosopher s journal : haltingly records In Yosemite , grandeur of these mountains perhaps unmatched in the globe ; for here they strip themselves like athletes for exhibition and

stand perpendicular granite walls , showing their

entire height , and wearing a liberty cap of snow on E ’ the he ad . merson s admiration must have pleased M e uir , whos life seemed predicated on the eastern ’ “ sage s dictum : We must trust the perfection of the creation so far as to be lieve that whate ve r curiosity the order of things has awakened in our minds , the $ orde r of things can satisfy . Behind the intrepid John Muir at this time in his life lay his solo walk of miles from Indiana to the G ulf of Me xico . Behind lay his abandoned e care r as an inventor , his brief studies at the Univer

sit o f . y Wisconsin , and his Wisconsin farm boyhood

To acquaintances , to family , and even to supportive close friends , this loomed as a formless period for

M . R uir , indeed for all of society in that day eligion and science face d a new and jarring parting of the Th e e th e asc en ways . ris of evolutionary theory and d e nc e of new geological theories battered the -o ld centuries religious paradigm , particularly in uni

v e rsitie s th e . e and professions Sudd nly , no one knew quite how to view th e world .

John Muir was , in fact , finding out how to view it .

- If his long distance wanderings , and then his Yosem e ite forays , seemed formless , th y were nonetheless M M ’ formative . ore than a search for knowledge , uir s “ was a vision quest ; h e was developing his glacial $ e M eye as he called it . The Sierra p aks , uir realized , “ e Inc o m wer mountain fountains , watering first the $ parable Valley of Yosemite and then the agric ul ’ M tural plenitude of California s Central Valley . uir envisioned the Central Valley as a “ solar gold lake flowing out of Sierran springs and see ps . The giant - e sequoias , with sponge like root syst ms , similarly he ld precious water for timed release as th e life f ’ blood o California s agriculture . Muir’ s was an early and profoundly influential H e . ecological vision . saw the universe as flow Although he published statements of this pe rspe c tive 1 5 years before similar stateme nts appeare d in M e e scientific literature , uir has not r ceived prop r P credit for them . erhaps the experie nces he de scribed ih his articles were judged to o inte nse ly e personal to mbody sci e ntific the ory . Fo r Yo u Wi l l Be Mostly i n Ete rnity

Precedin pa es a nd cover : I M e g g invite you to join me , John uir wrot to the ro u nd the w o r d a o m e “ ’ A l , H lfD e R E 1 87 1 emin nt alph Waldo merson in , in a month s is th e ide n tifying sym b o l of N e I n workshop with atur in the high temples of the Yose m ite Na tio na l Park . th e se v ie ws y o u witne ss Ha lf great Sierra Crown beyond our holy Yosemite . It o m e ro m G ac ie r Po in t D f l , will cost you nothing save the time and very little of w it m assive El Capitan in $ h E . M that , for you will be mostly in ternity uir , the th e o re r o u nd and ro m f g , f pioneering conservationist and naturalist , had gravi ose m ite a e re s e c tive . Y V ll y , p ly tate d 1 868 e e Th e c o ve r sh o ws a distan t to Yosemite in as a sh pherder and - f- ll - Ha lfDo m e aglo w fro m the stayed on as sawyer and jack o a trades for Yosem F - M o u r ile Trail to Gla c ie r ite Valley innkeeper and guide James Mason Hutch Po in t . M ings . John uir and Yosemite : It was love at first M sight , and the energy appeared to be mutual . uir enjoyed a spiritual fusion and personal ide ntity with “ N Yosemite . o temple made with hands can com E pare with Yosemite . very rock in its walls seems to

glow with life . Some lean back in maj e stic repose ;

others , absolutely sheer or nearly so for thousands of e feet , advance b yond their companions in thought

ful attitudes , giving welcome to storms and calms e e alike , se mingly conscious , yet heedl ss of every n n m imm o . o v a thing goi g about them Awful in ste , e ble maj sty , how softly these mountain rocks are adorn e d and how fine and reassuring the company $ L — . M they keep ife , personality , consciousness uir found th e se qualities in what most perceived as “ ’ inanimate nature . You ll find me rough as the $ “ h e rocks , wrote to a friend , and about the same

color granite . No r did Yosemite disappoint Eme rson : This val ley is the only place that comes up to the brag about $ ’ e it , and xceeds it , he said . The philosopher s journal : haltingly records In Yosemite , grandeur of these mountains perhaps unmatched in the globe ; for here they strip themselves like athletes for exhibition and

stand perpendicular granite walls , showing their e ntire height , and wearing a liberty cap of snow on E ’ the h e ad . merson s admiration must have pleased M e uir , whos life seemed predicated on the eastern ’ “ sage s dictum : We must trust the perfection of the creation so far as to beli e ve that whatever curiosity the order of things has awakened in our minds , the $ order of things can satisfy . B e hind the intrepid John Muir at this time in his life lay his solo walk of miles from Indiana to th e G ulf of Me xico . Behind lay his abandoned e e car r as an inventor , his brief studies at the Univer

sit . y of Wisconsin , and his Wisconsin farm boyhood To acquaintances , to family , and even to supportive e clos friends , this loomed as a formless period for R M . uir , indeed for all of society in that day eligion and science face d a new and jarring parting of the e e ways . The ris of evolutionary theory and the as en d e nc e of new geological theories battered the

- centuries old religious paradigm , particularly in uni

v e rsitie s th e e . e o ne and prof ssions Sudd nly , no knew quite how to view th e world .

John Muir was , in fact , finding out how to view it .

- If his long distance wanderings , and then his Yosem e ite forays , se med formless , they were nonetheless M M ’ formative . ore than a search for knowledge uir s was a vision quest ; he was developing his glacial $ e e . Th e M y as he called it Sierra peaks , uir realized , “ e Inc o m wer mountain fountains , watering first the $ parable Vall e y of Yosemite and then the agric u l ’ M tural plenitude of California s Central Valley . uir “ envisioned th e Central Valley as a solar gold lake flowing out of Sierran springs and see ps . The giant e - e sequoias , with spong like root syst ms , similarly held precious water for timed release as th e life f ’ blood o California s agriculture . Muir’ s was an early and profoundly influential H e . ecological vision . saw the universe as flow Although he published stateme nts of this pe rspe c tive 1 5 years before similar stateme nts appeare d in M e scientific literature , uir has not r ceived proper P credit for them . erhaps the experi e nces h e de scribed ih his articles were judged too inte nse ly e personal to mbody sci e ntific the ory . A poste r v e rsi o n ofthi s pano rama is av ail abl e f ro m the se tti ng is Yose mi te Assoc i ati o n at th e in t n r m a dr s o w n o n 1 hi s pa o a a b d e s sh page 30 . se tti ng is in thi s pano ra M o unt Gibbs Cath e dral Pe ak Illness had thwarted Muir’ s original plan to travel o n - southward after his mile walk , on to Cuba R ’ and South America and the Amazon iver s source . H M . e uir went west instead , by steamer had left the university with walls for what he called the Univer $ E sit . y of the Wilderness nding up in California , Muir th e soon spied , walling the eastern horizon , Sierra Ne the h e re - vada , mountains would christen The Hi R ange of Light . s Sierran experiences would gain “ $ him mythological stature as John of the Mountains . “

Mr . e t Muir gazes and gazes , and cannot g his fill P Le C o nte rofessor Joseph , a University of C e alifornia geologist , wrote of this ind fatigable moun “ P taine e r . lants and flowers and forests , and sky and clouds and mountains seem actually to haunt his H e imagination . e se ms to revel in the freedom of this

life . I think he would pine away in a city or in L o n e . e C t conventional life of any kind , a respected natural scientist and religious apologist for the new M ’ evolutionary viewpoint , found uir s situation an “ oddity : A man of so much intelligence tending a — $ M . H r . sawmill not for himself , but for utchings This is California $$ Yosemite historian Margaret Sanborn wrote of “ M : No e uir one has made a more intensiv , pro

longed , and reverent study of Yosemite Valley and No the high country than John Muir . one understood N it be tter . othing was too insignificant for notation ; ’ nothing ove rlooked : a grasshopper s trail in the dust ; the lisp of a snowflake alighting ; fe rn fronds uncoil ing ; the distant calls of Canada geese winging high above the valley on winter nights ; th e silence follow ing each big storm ; the lunar bows in Yosemite Falls at full moon ; the night shadows of trees and rocks ’ cast by Venus light . Late in his life Muir characterized his early wan de rings by describing himself during that time as a “ - - - - se lf styl e d poetico trampo geologist bot . and ornith His natural , fateful change in itinerary — California instead of Cuba eventually spark e d new e life in him , helped lead to the creation of Yosemit N P e ational ark , and help d crystallize for America

and the world the national park concept . But if this “ M $ John of the ountains possessed vision , it was the concrete facts and details of natural history he e e command d , as well as the emotions his experienc s e th e e stirred , that propell d his advocacy for em rgent

1 2 ’ Next a es: Be a rin a u conse rvation cause into peopl e s minds and hearts . p g g ’ tu m n s e a b u rde n th e fy , His advocacy for conse rvation is still so prope lled l Me rc e d R ive r b e c k o ns y o u F e e today . acts and fe lings about natur were John de ep e r in to Yo se m ite Va lley . ’ H e e e e Muir s stock in trade . r lentlessly f rret d out the El a ita n so id a nd e te rna l C p , l e a t le t and Brida ve i Fa facts and probed his feelings whil wandering and f , l l ll, o ssam e r a nd e e m e ra g p , pond e ring our holy Yosemite . h l se e m to sta nd as its c o n trast t ing ga e ke ep e rs. Th e e e P real voyag of discov ry , wrote Marcel roust , consists not in se eking new landscapes but in ’ e e having new eyes . Yosemit Vall y s discovery by non - Indian people in 1 85 1 occurred when Ame rica F posse sse d new eyes for wildness and the sublime . ear and antagonism toward wild nature had marked e West rn attitudes in the preceding centuries , but a reaction of love and respe ct for nature had be gun to appear in Ame rican arts and letters by th e 1 83os . ’ E e Muir s hearty invitation to merson , so couch d in

e . r ligious metaphor , accents this cultural shift A e young doctor s rving with the Mariposa Battalion , th e - e first non Indian peopl to enter Yosemite Valley , “ recalled his experience : The grandeur of the scene was but softened by th e haze that hung over th e val — — le y light as gossamer and by th e clouds which e partially dimm d the higher cliffs and mountains , “ wrote Lafaye tte Bunnell . This obscurity of vision th e aw e e but increased with which I beh ld it , and as I e e e look d , a peculiar exalted s nsation se med to fill e my whole being , and I found my yes in tears with $ P R e motion . opular travel writer the everend Thomas “ e 1 860: G Starr King d clared in reat is granite , and $ the Yo - Semite is its proph e t $ C e nturie s e arlie r some believed Satan lurk e d in e e N Th e such ragg d t rrain as the Sierra e vada . proper e motion would have b e en fear and th e proper atti tude disgust . Beauty inhabite d only those things e Ye t exhibiting ord r and proportion . Starr King re turned to his congre gation and preach e d thre e

Yosemite se rmons . Looking down into th e Valley from Old Inspira P F H L tion oint , writer itz ugh udlow , traveling with e 1 863 th e paint r Albert Bierstadt in , summed up new view of nature : We did not so much se em to b e se e ing from the crag of vision a new scene on the old familiar globe as a new he ave n and a new earth into th e which creative spirit had just bee n breathe d . I e e e h sitat now , as I did th n , at the attempt to give my e N vision utt rance . e ve r w e re words as beggared for

1 3

El Capitan rep o se s in w arm e ve ning ligh t th a t in vests it w it u r h ill so y softne ss . The $ Ch ief c h a lle nge s ro c k c limb

e rs fro m a ro u n d the glo be .

I n 1 855 o mas . res , Th A Ay dre w Yose mite Fa s o o ll , pp ’ site ic tu rin the Va e s , p g ll y w o nde rs fo r a w ide p u blic fo r

the first tim e . This lith o grap h ’ was made fr o m Ayre s dra w

ing . Yo se mite e n th usias t Jam e s Maso n u tc in s a H h g , m a az ine u b is e r inc ude d g p l h , l Ay re s in the first sigh tse e ing tr ip to the Va lley .

1 6

Left : Sigh tse e rs s till se e k o u t sc e n ic Yo se m ite Fa lls in a ll Th e its m o o ds a n d se aso ns . c o mbine d h e igh t of the se fa lls of Yo se mite Cre e k is Th e i a R o ad 2 425 e e t. o , f T g c ro sse s the c re e k be t we e n White Wo lf and Po rc up in e Fla t w ith n o hint of th e fa lls

do w nstre am .

Lo ng de sc e n ts an d w indy c o n ditio ns re nde r misty a nd ve il- like ma ny Sie rra n r Th u tt r wa te fa lls . e s lo w sh e sp e e d use d h e re to c ap tu re Brida lve il Cre e k be lo w Brida lve il Fall ex agge rate s i t s ac az u a it . h l y , h y q l y ndia ns c a e d the wa te r a I ll f ll, w ic u n e s 62 0 e e t h h p l g f , P “ o h o n o o we r u wind. , p f l

1 9 n e f a abridg d translation o any Scripture of Nature . This fundamental about- face in thinking gave rise to th e possibility o f a national park conce pt in th e h 1 f Unite d State s in t e 9th c e ntury . But credit o r its p ro ba bility goes to the fortuitous combination of

John Muir and Yosemite . ’ Today s social historians de scribe thi s shift in attitude toward nature as a re action to urbanization h e . t e e and industrialization Also , se mingly boundl ss

Ame rican frontier was visibly closing . Once se e m in l e e e e e g y limitl ss , b av r and buffalo w re head d toward e xtirpation throughout the North Ame rican “ F - E vastness . o r land starved uropeans th e Ne w $ th e World was a candy store with no lock on door , “ En e nvironme ntal historian R ode rick Nash wrote . v iro nm e n tal responsibility was th e last thing on the ir $ th e e nd o f minds as th e y faced the setting sun . But th e frontie r hinted to a chaste ned Ame rica that th e

candy store could b e e mpti e d afte r all . 1 85 1 H e e Whatever the motivation , by nry Thor au , e whose writings would deeply influenc Muir , was

championing wildness at the Concord Lyceum . In an “ 1 858 A tla n tic Mo n th ly Thoreau asked : Why should no t w e have o u r national pre se rve s in which e e the bear and panth r , and some even of the hunt r ‘ e e b e e o ff th e e rac , may still xist , and not civiliz d fac ’ o f the earth for inspiration and o u r true re e $ w e e e cr ation Or should , lik villains , grub th m all $ up for poaching o n our own national domains $ E e Fe e merson , Jam s nimor Cooper , and others car P ri e d th e wild nature th e me in lite rature . ainte rs

e e . D Thomas Col , Ash r B urand , Thomas Moran ,

and Alb e rt Bi e rstadt ce l e brate d it in th e visual arts . s o f But a newcomer to the art , a new medium e e xpression , would also prove a staunch propon nt

for wild nature . Th e rise o f photography afforde d a n ew esth e tic

tool for advocating preservation of wild nature . The D e e 1 839 aguerr otype proc ss was invented in , but it P w o n was confin e d to u se in th e studio . hotography its freedom to move into the wilds with de ve lopm e nt - e of the collodion w e t plate process in 1 85 1 . Onc e th e e e th e lib rated from studio , it off r d public both Th e - e art and effective documentation . wet plat proce ss boaste d furth e r advantage : Multiple prints F r e e could b e made of an image . o aspiring wild rn ss ’

e e e . photograph rs , how ver , it wasn t all that asy This

20 Next a es : A s w e tra ve u bu lky p roc e ss de mande d that th e photographe r carry p g l p , Yo se m ite a lle H a l D o m e e e r e e ss e V y , f vi w cam a , tripod , larg and h avy gla plat s , slips bac k in to vie w in a n e th e e e r r th e ’ ch micals , and compl t da k oom into e a rly m o rn ing s ligh t . Wash

to e u e . E e u e e wild e rne ss tak a pict r arly xpos r tim s ingto n Co l u m n fo rm s th e De e n e a rl ve r tic a l le t sh a n k o re quire d from te n minute s to a full ho u r . spit y f f ’ hi Va lle ro i e . th e e O Su lliv an e s t s y p f l Off such physical d mands , Timothy , Charl fo re gr o u nd gra ve ba r th e Le e e e r e t Eadw e ard Mu l and r W d , Ca l on Watkins , y ’ c o lu m n s r o u n de d c ap is re e H e s e e to bridg , William nry Jack on , and oth rs b gan fle c te d in the Me rc e d R ive r . capture photographs o f th e 1 9th - c e ntury Ame rican F 1 860 to 1 880 e e e e . wild rn ss rom , th y produc d land ’ scape image s that stand today among th e world s gre at artistic accompli shments . Many o f th e se historic image s docum e nte d Yo Yo se mite Valle y and its Si e rra Ne vada e nvirons . ’ e te e e e H u n fo r s mi s first tourist had b n Jam s tchi gs , ’ P e o f H u tc hin s whom Mui r late r work e d . ublish r g Ca l i o rn ia Ma az in e h e st re f g , took arti Thomas Ay s ’ e with him o n his fi rst trip to th e Vall e y in 1 85 5 . Ayr s drawings and th e magazin e lithographs mad e from th e m gave the world its first Yose mite picture s . e e e th e o f Yo Charl s W d took first photograph , F 1 e e s 859 . e e to o e e s mit all , in W d , , trav l d with ’ H u th e e s e e tchings , Vall y fanatical publicist who v n h 1 7 P tu ally se ttle d h e re in 1 863. At t e 86 aris Inte r E r e e x e national xposition , Ca l ton Watkins hibit d his

1 7 x22— - inch mammoth plate Yose mite vie ws . Along e e e Eadw e ard Mu b rid e with his v ntual comp titor , y g , se s - e and An l Adams , Watkins rank among the all tim ’ r g e at Yose mite artists . Watkins image s had alre ady he lpe d inspire Congre ss and Pre side nt Abraham Lincoln to prote ct for p u blic u se Yose mite Valle y and r G v e G e 1 864 the Ma iposa ro of iant S quoias in , ’ e th e whil Civil War still rage d . But it was Muir s some time s- bizarre Yose mite wande rings and his re ad ing o f th e landscape that produc e d th e proof that “ you cannot save Yose mite Vall e y without saving its $ r W Sier an fountains . e o w e principally to John Muir ’ th e s0 0 e o f p today s national park .

N e e 1 860 e th e Bo s to n Tra n In ov mb r , subscrib rs to sc rip t n e wspap e r sat in the ir home s and office s to “ re ad : We we re ve ry tire d wh e n w e dismo u nte d at ’ $G ale n $Clark s lo g hut and canvas dining te nt in th e u e s r e glorio s for t $at Wawona $, thi ty mil s from Mari — . re e o u r e e n posa Ti d in body and in brain , tir d by s v rs o f e th e e e e t hou hors back riding , and by p rp tual f as o f floral be auty and sugar- pin e magnifice nce which

2 1

Th e R o a l A r c e s b e l o w Bu t no t re u ire a e e e e e t . y h had d light d y and h ar it did q , N rth D o m e e e r o u t r o m ’ o p f H s e s n e o n e long time to re sto re us . alf an hour r t u d r b e hind th e go lde n le a ve s of o f th e s te e v e th e n ta ly firs that tow r abo cabi , and a an o a k in Sto n e m a n Me ado w . o f te a e Fo r a n o th e r p e rsp e c ti ve of cup with our noon m al , fit for a mandarin ’ the a rc h e s se e th e A b e r t u t u s th e e , l p in good working trim for aft rnoon s Bie rstadt ain tin re ro du c e d We e e e e th e p g p e xc u rsion . w r only fiv mil s from Mam

n a e 48 . p g A n e e u moth Tre e s . asy upland rid of an ho r would le ad u s to th e $Mariposa $grove whe re th e ve ge table Titans w e had so ofte n re ad about with a wond e r $ tinge d with unbe li e f h e ld th e ir sol e mn court . Thi s e xce rpt comes from the fourth o f six Bo s to n Tra n

— - — sc rip t l e tte rs full l e ngth trave l articl e s re counting th e Yosemite journ e y o f Unitarian pre ache r Thomas

Starr King . r Subscribe rs save d th e se ri e s . Just be fo e moving to e e California from Boston , Starr King wrot a guid ’ book to New Hampshire s White Mo u ntains that

w o n him gre at stature in th e East as a trave l write r . ’ Bits and pi e c e s about Yosemite s spe ctacular fe a e e e e e e re tur s had circulat d for s v ral y ars , but h at last w as an authority on sce ne ry confirming that Yose m

ite was ind e e d sublime . Yose mite soon took its place h on the map and on th e grand weste rn tour . Wh e n t e e e e 1 869 transcontin ntal railroad was compl t d in , a f host o e aste rn notabl e s journe ye d we st to Yose mite . ’ Starr King s prose e xtolling sc e nery capitalize d on th e pow e rfu l Ame rican pride that had be gun to swe ll e h 1 4 in th e 1 9th ce ntu ry . This prid fu e l e d t e 86 fe de ral grant o f Yose mite Valley and th e Mariposa “ Big Tre e G rove to California as a re se rve for public $ re sort and recreation and he lp e d spark th e national “ Th r park move me nt . e argume nt was that Ame ica — ne e d e d cultural distinctive ne ss some thing differ e nt and di stinguished to hold up against th e older e e o f e and rich r antiquiti s the Old World , wrot R h N w e N . t e e od rick ash Specifically , World had a quantity and quality of wilde rness that transce nde d

anything abroad . As it was popularly p e rce ive d in th e Am e rica of — th e l 800s e e w as a mid to late , wild rn ss scenery conce pt John Muir worke d assiduously to broade n n — h e e e e t e e e . and d p and the more monum ntal , b tt r w e Big was b e autiful ; ve rtical w as wond e rful . Could compare favo rably with th e Swiss Alps $ Did w e have dazzling attraction s fo r th e world trave le r $ Th e e arly th e se G s e e e parks , Yo mite rant and Yellow ton , w r e e e e e e e pr s rv d as sc nic marv ls , not as for st or wildlif

29 R ight : A fire -sc a rre d se qu o ia p e rsists in th e Tu o lu m n e

Gr o ve .

Pio ne e ring p h o tograp h e r Ca r le to n Wa tkins la be le d this p h o tograp h Th e G rizzly

G iant 1 86 1 . I t s o ws G a e n , h l Cla rk of n o rma l s ta tu re sta nding aga ins t th e gia n t F r t se qu o ia of th a t na m e . i s gua rdia n of th e Yo se mite G ra n t w ic in c u de d th e , h h l Ma ri o sa Bi re e G ro ve p g T , Cla rk b u ilt a c a bin whe re the

gro ve m u se u m n o w s ta nds .

Next pages: G ra nite do m e s stand a b o ve Te naya La ke as se e n fro m Olmste d Po in t o n ’ e r n t e the Tio ga R o ad. W e i h h u n tr n ’ ighc o y o w .

30

u o u m ne Me ado ws w it its e e e . e r s rv s These conservation motiv s came later . T l , h ’ “ $ visito r c e n te r a nd o t e r a c il e h f The giant sequoias , Starr King s veg table Titans , itie s is a t re s o d o r a vast H w , h h l f we re simply adde d monume ntal bonuse s . o could p o r tio n of the Yo se mite - - El Yosemite miss , with its foot high Capitan , r wilde ne ss. Su c h su btle a nd e o f de ic ate a ttrac tio ns as a in t its singularly colossal domes , its pl thora plunging l p e $ bru sh a nd e lep ha n the ad waterfalls , and its giant sequoia grov s o we rs c o m bine d w it the Fo r th e e Ho w fl , h John Muir question was rath r , can m o u n ta in bac kdro m a ke $ p , we miss the mark so badly $ Was not nature much Tu o lu m ne Me ado ws a p lac e more than a collection of scenic wonde rs and curios th a t be c ko ns us to re tu rn $ e a a in and a a in . iti s Muir found in nature a dynamic flow . g g Just as Yosemite Valley was born of flowing e - e e glaciers , so , too , its lif giving streams w r born high o n the mountains springing from snowfi e lds and glaciers . To set aside only Yosemite Vall e y and the ’ G e e 1 864 Mariposa rov , as was don in , was , in Muir s h e e n h e e . t d e t e th e vi w , futil In neith r parts nor “ e F r whol would have inte grity . o the branching can$y $ons and vall e ys of the basins of th e stre ams that pour into Yose mite are as closely re late d to it as — are th e finge rs to the palm o f th e hand as th e $ e e o f th e branch s , foliage , and flow rs a tree to trunk , “

e e . e e e th e Muir xplain d Ther for , v ry naturally , all e e e fountain r gion above Yosemit , with its p aks , e e s can$y $ons , snow fi lds , glaciers , for sts , and treams , should b e include d in th e park to make it an e e harmonious unit inst ad of a fragment , gr at though h $ ’ t e fragment b e . Muir s Yosemite wande rings had f ne w o . As brought him a vision nature Muir saw it , e th e o f life itself flow d off crowns mountains , in turn giving life to surrounding realms .

’ w e To fathom the significance of Muir s realizations , must und e rstand th e cultural conte xt of a ce ntury ’ ago . Clouding pe ople s p e rce ptions of nature was the notion that humanity was lord over cre ation . Muir “

e e e e . Th e w e are consid r d this fals doctrin wo rld , e e — told , was mad esp cially for man a presumption no t s e th e h e upport d by all facts , wrote in his Th o u sa n d Mile Wa lk to the u G lf. Later h e e labo “ rated : No dogma taught by th e pre sent civilization se e ms to form so insupe rable an obstacle in the way of a right unde rstanding of the relations which culture sustains to wildn e ss as that which re gards th e world $ e e e fo r F r as mad sp cially the use s of man . a be tter to “ e w e e th e acknowledg , Muir thought , that all trav l

e e . E milky way togeth r , tre s and men ulogizing a e h e e e e e e b ar found d ad in Yos mit , Muir refl ct d that

38

u o u m ne Me ado w s w it its e e e . . r s rv s These conservation motives came later T l , h ’ “ v isito r c e n te r d t e r Th e e e a n o h fac il giant s quoias , Starr King s vegetabl Titans , itie s is a t re s o d o r a vast H w , h h l f we re simply adde d monume ntal bonuse s . o could p o r tio n of the Yo se mite - - El Yosemite miss , with its foot high Capitan , w r ilde ne ss . Su c h su b tle and e o f de ic a te a ttrac tio ns a in t its singularly colossal domes , its pl thora plunging l s p a e $ b ru sh a nd e lep ha n the ad waterfalls , and its giant sequoia grov s o we rs c o m bine d w it th e Fo r e H o w fl , h John Muir the question was rath r , can m o u n ta in b ac kdro m a ke $ p , w e miss the mark so badly $ Was not nature much Tu o lu m ne Me ado ws a p lac e more than a colle ction of sce nic wonders and curios tha t be c k o ns us to re tu rn $ e a a in a n d a a in . iti s Muir found in nature a dynamic flow . g g Just as Yosemite Valley was born of flowing e - e e glaciers , so , too , its lif giving streams w r born high on the mountains springing from snowfi e lds and se t e glaci e rs . To asid only Yosemite Valle y and th e ’ G e 1 864 Mariposa rove , as was don in , was , in Muir s

e e . e e th e th e vi w , futil In the end n ith r parts nor “ F r h whole would have inte grity . o t e branching can$y $ons and vall e ys o f the basins of th e streams that pour into Yose mite are as close ly re lated to it as — are th e fingers to the palm o f the hand as the $ e e o f e th e branch s , foliage , and flow rs a tre to trunk , “

e . e e e Muir xplained Ther for , v ry naturally , all the e e e e fountain r gion abov Yos mite , with its p aks , e e e e can$y $ons , snow fi lds , glaci rs , for sts , and str ams , should b e include d in th e park to mak e it an e o f e e harmonious unit inst ad a fragm nt , gr at though $ ’ th e fragment b e . Muir s Yose mite wande rings had n w f e o e . brought him a vision natur As Muir saw it , e e th e lif its lf flowed off crowns of mountains , in turn e to giving lif surrounding re alms .

’ To th e e o f e fathom significanc Muir s r alizations , we must unde rstand the cultural context of a century ’ ago . Clouding peopl e s perceptions o f nature was th e notion that humanity was lord ove r creation . Muir “ e consid red this false doctrine . The world , we are e e fo r — told , was mad specially man a pre sumption $ th e h e e not supported by all facts , wrot in his Th o usa n d Mile Wa lk to the G u l L f. ate r he elabo “ rated : No dogma taught by th e pre sent civilization se e ms to form so insuperable an obstacle in the way of a right unde rstanding of th e relations which culture sustains to wildn e ss as that which re gards th e world $ e th e s F r as made esp cially for u es of man . a be tte r to “ e w e acknowledg , Muir thought , that all travel the m e e e n . E milky way togeth r , tr es and ulogizing a e h e e e e e b ar found d ad in Yosemit , Muir r flect d that

38

Left : At Tu o lu mne Me ado ws the Dana an d Lye llfo rks of the Tu o lu mne R ive r c o me

to e t e r . e re $it askanc e a t g h H , su nse t the u n in wate r is , p l g g c hanne lle d th ro ugh the Grand Cany o n of the Tu o l umne R ive r be lo w Tu o lu mne r Me ado ws. Farthe do wn ’ stre am O Shau hne ss Dam g y , au th o rize d inside this na tio nal ark in 1 91 3 bac ks u p , p these wate rs as He tc h H e t

c h R ese r vo ir. e re ho w y H , ’ e ve r the rive r s wi dne ss is , l

unrestraine d. Below : Brac ke n fe rns ado rn a slope with a gree n be lt ab o ve the Tu o l

u mne R ive r .

Next pages: Se e n in pano ramic vie w fro m atop Me dli c o tt o me the u o u mne D , T l R ive r c o u ntry takes on a mo re P se ve re de meano r. o c ke d ro c k and rain p o o ls in the fo regro u nd exp ress in mic ro c osm the landsc ape that sw r e eps a wayf o m the m . Pages 44 and 45 : A t Dana Me ado ws Mammo t Pe ak is , h refle c te d a t ea rly mo rn ing in a su balp ine p o nd.

41

EADWEAR D MUYBR IDGE

Me rc e d R iv e r Sc ene o n the ,

1 867.

Landscape Photography The c o llo dio n we t-plate p ro c ess libe ra te d the ne w art of ph o tograp hyfro m the stu dio in 1 85 1 the e ar t a t ose m , y h Y ite Va lley was disc o ve re d by - The ark no n India n pe ople . p and la ndsc ap e ph o tography re w u to e t e r to re a t g p g h , g

mu tua l be nefit . 50 CH AR LES WEED

Mirro r Lake 1 865 . ,

5 1 EADWEAR D MUYBR IDGE

Me rc ed R iv e r Sc e ne o n th e ,

1 867.

Landscape Photography The c o llo dio n we t-p late p ro c e ss libe ra te d the ne w art of p h o tographyfro m the stu dio in 1 85 1 the e ar t at ose m , y h Y ite Valley was disc o ve re d by - The ark no n India n pe ople . p a nd landsc ape ph o tograp hy re w u to e t e r to re a t g p g h , g

mu tu al be nefit . 50 CHAR LES WEED

M . irro r Lake , 1 865

5 1 JULIUS BOYSEN

- Self Po rtrait . Bo sen is at left y , r h f w ith his b o t e r and athe r ,

I 901 .

52

A rtist Th o mas Mo ra n dre w his Glac ie r o n Mo u nt Ritte r fro m a ske tc h by th e in trep id ose mite ex lo re r l o h n Mu ir Y p , sh o w n h e re as a y o u ng ma n .

55 7 h lish me nt fthe N ti n l P A c h rono logy fro m 1 7 6 to t e e stab o a o a ark S e rv ice in 1 9 1 6 .

Si e rra N ev ada name d by Pa J ame s Cape n Adams v i sits Yo m t t r zz r n . t r A dre Pe d o Fo t se i e o c ap u e g i li e s . s “ $ G rizzly Adams he trai ns th e m

fo r s h ow . M e rc e d R iv e r name d w h e n M o raga E xpe diti o n e xpl o re s m its l owe r co urse . J a e s M aso n H utc hi ngs b ri ngs fi rst party ofs ig htse e rs r t to Yo se mite . Fi s sketc h e s of Yose mite made by Th o mas pe rs c rosse s pre se nt par and k Ayre s . Trail b uilt f ro m S o uth Fo rk (Wawo na) to Yose mite r Vall ey . G al e n Cl a k e ngage d to surv e y fo r wate r supply to r m n r r M a i posa F re o t g ant . S u v e o rs b u d rst o use a y il fi h ,

b ase ofSe nti ne l Roc k .

v - v g i ngs . Can as c o e re d h o use c o nstructed in Valle y o n site r 61 C e da Co ttage . Gal e n Cl ark

nt r and Tuo l umne R i v e rs . Pai e Albe rt Bi e rstadt make s fi rst

v i sit to Yose mite .

r g o up. M any prospe cto rs e nte r

56 1 8 7 0 Albe rt S now builds trail to flats

r x falls . R ail oad e te nde d c l ose r

so r J ose ph LeCo nte v i si ts Yo

r n G rov e g rante d to Califo rni a as Vall e y . G e at I yo e arthq uake

by do me sti c sh e e p g razi ng .

r tt t J o h n L . M u phy se l e s a Hi hc o untr Te naye Lake . g y r t u am surv e ye d . Fi s p bli c c p l m n 35 mm n us w e g ro unds e stabli sh e d in Val e y . $ us W “$ W $ $ m Tunne l c ut in Tuo l umne ’ G rov e s D e ad Gi ant . M o untai n

H o use b uilt at Gl ac i e r Po i nt .

57 1 8 7 9 S unday Sc h oo l U ni o n b uilds Co mmi ss i o ne rs re mov e ’ ’

m l in . B n i Yose i te Chape Vall e y l ac k s a d Le dig s h ote ls .

J . J . Coo k l e ase s ne w ly b uil t

Sto ne man H o use . Le g i sl ature o usts Bo ard ofYo

se mite Co mmi ssi o ne rs .

H utc hi ngs appo i nte d g uardi an. G al e n C l ark appo i nte d g uard ’ rr r mm Ac c o unt ofVall e y s di sc ov e ry ian agai n . Mi o Lake da e d B nn r . e . to n a it . publi s h e d by L . H u ll e l ge

Washb urn b roth e rs pay Se rib Yose mite N ati o nal Park c re ' ne r b roth e rs $ 7 5 to c ut tunne l ate d; M ui r s writi ngs i nfl ue nti al in mov e me nt to de s i g nate it a n t n a i o al park .

w ith h e adq uarte rs in Wawo na . Fi rst te l e ph o ne s i nstall e d in

H utc hi ngs re mov e d as guard

i n . nn n n . a ; W. E De i so appo i te d

t . s e ade d by J o h n B Le mb e rt .

n in r Cabi b uilt M a i posa G rov e .

Woode n l adde rs at Ve rnal Fall re pl ac e d by roc k ste ps

58 o nard name d rst ar re duce d in s ze . Ca o rn A rc hi e 0 . Le fi 1 9 05 P k i lif i a

c i v ili an park range r. Big Tre e G rov e to U nite d

C urry Campi ng Co mpany e s tab lishe d b y Dav id and J e nny rt t r s o r e nse n C urry . A i s Ch i J g

e stabli sh e s studi o in Valle y . si o n ofVall ey and M ari posa

Grov e to fe de ral j urisdicti on. ’ Supe ri nte nde nt s headq uarte rs mov e d from the Wawo na are a

o pe ne d fro m M e rc e d to El Po r

P to C ity ofS an F ranc i sc o . a

t o n n ro m Co . b uilds e l e ph e li e f

El Po rtal to S e nti ne l Hote l .

fi rst c ars i nto Yose mite .

tho rize s dammi ng and i nunda

Yose mi te Lodg e e stabli sh e d . r r Ste ph e n T. M ath e pu c h ase s oga o ad and g v e s it to fe d Ii sh es studi o ( now do i ng b us i Ti R i ta s e ra ov e rnme nt . oto r s e n a n l g M g e ss s A se l Adams G all e ry) . - re p ac e o rse draw n stages . Pi o ne e r inke e pe r J ame s l h M aso n H utc hi ngs di e s in arr n c i age ac c i de t . Co ng re ss e stabli sh e s N ati o nal

n . Park Se rv i c e . Ste ph e T r r ath e r appo nte d e cto . Si e rra C l ub b uil ds Le Co nte M i Di w m r W. B . e s na e d u e Me mo ri l i L i S p a Lodge n Valle y. inte nde nt ofYose mi te Na US . We ath e r Bure au i nstall s i l t o na ar . nstr m n P k i u e ts in Yose mite . Pre s ide nt Th e odo re R oo se v e lt v is its o s m t n Y e i e a d J o h n M u i r. 59

r n Scene y , a d a Ne w Way of Seei ng

El Ca ita n o o min a t e t e p , l g l f Yosemit struck John Muir as the sanctum sanc ’ e re is e r a s th e w o r d s $ “ h , p h p l torum of the Si e rra and th e grand e st of all the d ranite m o n o largest exp ose g D special te mpl e s of Nature . Art historian avid lith t wic e the h e igh t of the R e e Th e c i R o c k of Gib ra lta r . lff ob rtson rec ntly speculated that Yosemite Valley $ rise s 3 000 e e t r o m the th e e e e e e , f f may be global mast rpi c of thos aw some Valley flo o r a n d th e su mmit E e G artists Volcano , arthquak , lacier , Wind , and is a lm o st 600 e e t h i e r . f gh e — e Wate r . The s cret of its impact whether r marked a t H a l D o me a t ri t Wh f , gh ’ th e s e M th e e o h si ma ac k in m ass it m a ke s in religiou t rms of uir s day or g p y y l , o f — e e th e up fo r in its sc u lp tu re . cal terms our day sur ly li s with harmoni

ous sce nic beauty of its grand vistas . “ e e th e I sit in a kind of d licious dr am , scenery

unconsciously mingling with my dream , Joseph Le C o nte e r e r e , Univ rsity of Califo nia g ology p of ssor , e confid e d in his Yose mite trip journal . I hav heard o f e and read much this wond rful valley , but I can truly say I have n e ve r imagin e d th e grande ur of th e $ re ality . John Muir felt that in Yosemite Valley $ Nature had gath e red h e r choice st treasure s into No e e this o ne mountain mansion . templ mad with

e h e e . hands can compar with Yosemite , propound d “ $ Every rock in its walls se e ms to glow with life . Stre ams of visual artists have also atte ste d to its be auty since the wider world first heard of this

incomparable Si e rran vall e y . Its immensity and gran h H e e are de ur spark e d t e public imagination . r colos ro c kfo rms e sal sculptured , a stupendous coll ction of

e e e e e . wat rfalls , and , mbracing all , s r ne maj sty Art ists have long sensed the especially evocative spirit

ual and emotional qualiti e s of this national park . e e the e Th ir sens has not been lost on r st of us , pil grims from around the globe re sponding to Yose m ’ ite s allure . e But how did glacier , wind , wat r , and even vol c anic eruption and earthquak e sculpt thei r admitted global masterpiece $

’ Arising shortly after Yosemite Vall e y s discove ry by - e e e non Indian p opl , this question prov d difficult to W e e answer . e like to think that if it w r first posed

63

r n Scene y , a d a Ne w Way of Seei ng

El a ita n o o m in a t le t M h e C p , l g f Yose mite struck John uir as t sanctum sanc ’ e re is e r a s th e w o r d s $ “ h , p h p l torum of the Si e rra and the grandest of all th e x d ranite m o n o largest e p o se g D spe cial temples o f Nature . Art historian avid lith t w ic e the h e igh t of the R e e e T e c i R o c k of Gib ralta r . h lff obertson recently sp culat d that Yos mite Valley “ $ rise s 000fe e t fr o m the may b e the global maste rpiece of those awesome Va lley flo o r a nd the su m m it E e G e artists Volcano , arthquak , laci r , Wind , and is a m o st 600 e e t i e r . l f h gh e — e e Wate r . The secr t of its impact wh th r remarked a t H a l D o me a t ri t Wh f , gh ’ th e e s e th e e o h si m a ac k in mass it m a ke s in r ligiou t rms of Muir s day or g p y y l , e o f — e th e up fo r in its sc u lp tu re . cal t rms our day surely li s with harmoni

ous scenic beauty of its grand v istas . e th e e e I sit in a kind of delicious dr am , sc n ry e unconsciously mingling with my dr am , Joseph Le C o nte e , Univ rsity of California geology professor , e e confid e d in his Yosemite trip journal . I hav h ard e e e and r ad much of this wond rful vall y , but I can truly say I have never imagined the grandeur of th e s re ality . John Muir felt that in Yo emite Vall e y $ Nature had gathe re d h e r choice st tre asure s into N this one mountain mansion . o te mpl e mad e with

e e e h e e . hands can compar with Yos mit , propound d “ $ Eve ry rock in its walls se ems to glow with life . Streams of visual artists have also attested to its be auty since th e wid e r world first he ard of this

incomparable Si e rran valley . Its immensity and gran H r de ur sparked the public imagination . e e are colos ro c kfo rms e e sal sculptured , a stup ndous coll ction of

e e . waterfalls , and , mbracing all , seren maj esty Art ists have long se nse d th e e sp e cially e vocative spirit

ual and e motional qualities o f this national park . e e e th e e Th ir sense has not b n lost on r st of us , pil grims from around the globe responding to Yose m ’ ite s allure . e e But how did glaci r , wind , wat r , and even vol cani o eruption and earthquak e sculpt th e ir admitte d global maste rpi e ce $

’ Arising shortly after Yose mite Vall e y s discovery by - e e e non Indian peopl , this qu stion prov d difficult to e e e answer . We lik e to think that if it w r first pos d

63 today we could readily research it and reach c o nse n P no t so sus . erhaps , but certainly in the second half ’ of the 1 9th century . The question of the valley s origin caused many minds—and professional egos—to fo r 7 collide in often rancorous controversy 0 years . Why did this Valley only seven miles long and variably a mile wide set the stage for seven decades of scientific skirmishing$ D Josiah . Whitney , director of the California State G M eological Survey , and John uir were the chief The Y antagonists in this conflict . In o se mite Gu ide “ $ Bo o k Whitney branded John Muir an ignoramus G and mere sheepherder for his views . eologist

Clarence King , then a Whitney associate , publicly characterized Muir as an “ ambitious amateur$ in danger of “ hopelessly floundering $ and deluding real

geologists who had not inspected the terrain . Shifting cultural values marking that era decidedly R complicated the Yosemite controversy . eligious doctrine about landscape origins ran a collision

course with the upstart science of geology , whose own entrenched dogma drew fire from scientists beginning to accept the concepts of evolutionary

change and processes . These concepts included the M novel theory of glaciation , which uir championed .

as the key to how Yosemite Valley came to be . Swiss scientist Louis Agassiz formulated th e the ’ ory that the world s northerly latitudes were signifi

c antly shaped by episodes of extensive glaciation .

Agassiz first tracked the evidence in the Swiss Alps . With the benefit of hindsight we now know that such

evidence is not difficult to find . The difficulty then

lay in knowing what to look for . Geologists before Agassiz had searched for evidence of the c atac lys ’ M in mic Biblical flood . uir s intimate ramblings the High Sierra wilderness introduced him to abundant Pi glacial polish , striations , and erratic boulders . ’ nally he found actual glaciers near the Sierra s crest . Muir theorized that these were remnants of massive rivers of ice that had once gouged out Yosemite

Valley and sculptured its stately granite monuments . 1 9 1 3 D - F In , respected utch born geologist rancois M 1 7 E. atthes commenced a study that devoted ’ years to the question of Yosemite Valley s origins .

Employed by the US . Geological Survey and urged S M on by the ierra Club , atthes began by studying a Hi “ H larger section of the Sierra . s Geologic istory of

64 the Yosemite Vall e y saw print in 1 930 and still ’ se rv es today as th e basis for inte rpre ting th e Vall e y s ’ ’ e e r v e e origins . Matth s r po t indicat d Muir s hypoth sis

e e . of glacial formation but r ctified many d tails Muir , e 1 9 1 4 e e e who had di d in , had b n correct in th ory , Th but h e had ove rstated its application . e Sierra Ne e b e vada , Muir had conclud d , may regarded as o ne grand wrinkl e d sheet of glacial re cords . ’ Muir s credibility took a quantum l e ap with his discove ry of an active glacier on M e rc e d Pe ak in e e e the 1 87 1 . If r sidual glaciers wer still activ in e e e e e Si rra , th n massive pr d c ssors could have per E A a ins t c o n te m o ra r o r t o e e h e e . formed colossal work h r , speculat d ven g p y h ’ “ dox Jo n Mu ir c a m io ne d Agassiz e xtoll e d Muir s glaci e r studi e s : H e re is th e y , h h p the ne w th e o ry ofglac ia tio n first man who has any adequate conce ption of ’ to exp a in Yo se mite a ley s $ l V l

. glacial action e o o ic e vo u tio n . Mu ir g l g l , ’ e facin a e so o n e ic ite d th e Certainly Muir s succ ss lay partly in his methods , g p g , l ire a i rn ia Sta te Ge o l o which are legendary if not mythic : No sci e ntific ofC lfo

ist Jo sia . itne ic g D W y , p book in th e world can te ll me how this Yose mite h h ta re d a t the left w ith Cha rle s granite is put toge the r or how it has be e n taken E Hoffma n n a nd Clare nc e

. P K in e l o w m e m be rs o th e down atient observation and constant brooding g, f l f ’

v e e th e ic e sta te s e o o ic a s u r ve , in abo e the rocks , lying upon th m for y ars as g l g l y

1 863. th e th e did , is way to arrive at truths which are M grave n so lavishly upon them . uir e ntere d the H e live s of the glaci e rs . e d scribed himself moving ove r rocks like a glaci e r in a kind of mystical h “ ’ communion with t e Sierra 5 history . You ll find me th e h e e rough as rocks , wrote to a fri nd , and about $ the same color granite . Michael Cohen placed Muir in the era of th e gre at western American surveys during the period 1 860 to 1 e 890. T am expeditions were mounted by Ferdinand H e P ayden John W sley owell King , Whitney , and H e . e e e oth rs confront d alon , Cohen said of Muir , “ the same wild e rn e ss that the giants of western $ e exploration fac d with large e xp e ditionary teams . ’ Muir s methods we re totally different from th e e x i i ’ “ pe d t o ne rs . Th e y brought th e city into the wilder “ e H n ss Cohen wrote . e followe d his wild body th e e e into wild rn ss . Whe re as the nature of an e xpedition meant that it would likely be pre de te r “ ’ e th e it min d by civilization sending out , Muir s way e e allowed him to r evaluat his mission constantly .

’ th e e As we understand Si rra s geological story now , the are a that was to become the pre se nt range was once covered by wate r at the we stern margin of

65 r t w t m th rr v a 1 m l n r r Th e a e a th a as o be c o e e Si e a N e ad o 0 il i o ye a s ago . A mo e di sse c te d o nc e lay be ne ath a se a at th e w e st marg i n of l andsc ape e nsue d as th e w h o l e range w as Th r t at w rm o n t n t w m r . w N o rth A e i c a e oc k h as fo e d thi s Uplif e d a d til e d e stward . Thi s e stw ard tilt ’ se a oo r ro m de o s te d s t mud and mar ne ac c e e rate d the e rc e d v e r s ow and th e fl f p i il , , i l M Ri fl r n m w as u u nt t d a ov s a r v r ut r nt i v T o ga i s s s bse q e ly lif e b e e i e c de e pe i o ts all e y . he c li mate v n x n m nt n r n r r w n r l e e l a d fl e e d i to a o u ai a g e su g e c o o l e r a d dri e r. Fo e sts ofc o nife ro us mo unte d b a c a n o fv o c ano e s muc e tr e s nc ud n o m e se u as do nate d . y h i l h lik , i l i g q i , i ' tod s as ad an . ran t t at o rm d 3 milli n r ay C c e R ge G i e h f e O o ye a s ag o . A c anyo n l andsc ape ro m mo t n roc at th ro ots oft e s v o ano v o d w t nt n Th r f l e k e h e l c e s de e l pe i h c o i ue d uplift . e ag i ng e v e ntuall y wo u l d re mai n as th e c o re ofth e M e rc e d c ut its c anyo n as muc h as f e e t v r v It t t r m e rra e ada a te the o e r n se d me ntar de e . s r u ar st e a s w t sma e r Si N f l yi g i y p ib y , i h ll and v o l c ani c roc k g radually we ath e re d and

and pe rh aps mo re g l ac i al adv anc e s fill e d

o m are rare in w t its so ut e ast s de a mo st th e ase ofth t n rt Half Do me . D e s i h h i l b e s e e p o h the w o r d a do me s mo re as ste e as its no rt we st s de we st ac e unde rm n n the l , h lf p h i , f . i i g v t Wa a o me e v e r e xc e t fo r th e e r to . ro a u e r o rt o n t t n f ll so . s H lf D p y p P b pp p i h a h e e w h o l e $ Wh at h appe ne d$ Th e b ly 8 0 pe rc e nt ofthe o rig inal away . Ulti mate l y parts ofthe r r i mpre ssi o n o ne h as f ro m th e no rthwe st h alf is still th e e . sh e e ts pa all e l to th e o rig inal Vall e y th at thi s is a ro und Wh at pro bably h appe ne d is surfac e o f H alf Dome we re l e ft do me th at has lo st its no rth th at fro st- s plitti ng o fthe roc k proj e c ti ng o utward at th e c re st

i n o rr t . Th t th a ofa t n a r fth n r v r we st h alf s i c e c e a e b c k i y g l c i e o e e a l y e ti c al c liff . truth is appare nt w h e n yo u agai nst Half D o me abo v e Mir se e H alf D o me f ro m Gl ac i e r ro r Lake g raduall y q uarri e d lt i tua t n r Po i nt . s ac lly a hi idge - W. of roc k o ri e nte d N. E. S . n m a th r n t h r Do me Fo rmatio n . M a y do e s c ppe d e g a i e as e ode d

are v s e ro m ac e r o nt aw a . The te nde nc ofth e i ibl f Gl i P i , y y abo v e Yose mi te Vall e y (se e fracture s fo rme d duri ng e xfo li ma o n a e Half o me at o n to c ut c o rne rs is w at p p g D , i h e nt ne o me th e tarr u t mate re su ts in ro unde d S i l D , S l i l y l K n ro u nse t and man do me - e o rms e v e n t o u i g g p (i ) , y lik f h gh oth e rs h av e be e n fo rme d by th e starti ng s h ape may h av e l T f iat m n n n ar. t e x o at o n . o e x o e e a s e e a u e r Ca f li i b g l Lib y p, to c ast o ffin sc a e s ate s a rv e w o me and e m e rt , p , , b — l l F i i D L o r sh e e ts the spa ng offo f o me are ro c h e s mo uto n lli D — roc k l aye rs o n oth e rw i se un né e s e l o ngate ro unde d roc ks x i r — j o i nte d g ranite . E fo li ati o n s sc ul ptu e d by ic e fo rme d as c ause d b y o utw ard e xpansi o n gl ac i al ic e ov e rrode e xfo li ati ng

r r n t t r n . ofth e g ran te . h s oc c u s g a e o u c o pp gs i T i — i i as a re su lt of l o ad re li e f w h e n the ov e rb urde n th at o nc e m te a 1 4 30 Ve rnal Fall . The e rc e d v r n 1 7 Yo e mite alls . e r ose e u e s 3 e e t s F U pp Y i F ll ( , M Ri pl g f e e t owe r ose m te a 320 e e t and fo r its ast re at n e o re it re ac e s the f ) , L Y i F ll ( f ) , l g fli g b f h nte rme d ate c asc ade s 6 7 5 e e t c o m ne fo r a a e s re ad n in a road s e e t u to 8 0 e e t i i ( f ) bi V ll y, p i g b h p f It m t r t n u r e ne d the w de . s s c e a e s s ta ar r h e i g ht of fe e t . J o h M i lik i i pe c c ul a c h e d ' $ n w t it r n r n n r n f o m ts . ra o a a r U ppe r Fall s fo rc e to a th o g o c e i b s s b se du i g sp i g u off . m rr r T dro s 6 2 0 e t nto an N va F ll . Th t e a c a ac t Bridalve il Fall . he fall p f e i e da a e ig h y Si at a c ov e rom a an n v a le ust e ow un e s the e rc e d v e r 5 9 4 e e t dow nward l f h g i g l y j b l pl g M Ri f , Cat e dra oc s w c uttre ss ose m te ma in it oo e a t unde r n snow av a h l R k , hi h b Y i k g l k lik h i g m r nt rn n a e d re ct o os te El Ca tan . Br da ve anc e . e e n ro ac e o e a a d V ll y i ly pp i pi i l il l h S f Gl i P i , V l Fall is ofte n bl ow n i nto the filmy mi st th at N e v ada falls are like se t pi e ce s o n wh at is sugge sted the pre se nt name . Be innin in 1 91 3 e o o ist North America . Accumulating sediments deposited g g , g l g Franco is Matthes de vo te d 1 7 on the sea floor built up thick layers of rock . Crustal years ofstu dy to the questio n forces , essentially intense heat and pressure , warped ’ of Yose mite Valley s fo rma k ’ , l l , these roc strata lifted them above sea eve and tio n . He fo u nd tha t Mu ir s D ac ia t e o r was esse ntia flexed them into a folded mountain range . uring gl l h y lly c o rre c t bu t t at Mu ir had this time molten rock welled up from within the , h

o ve rstate d his c ase . i mic E Se s arth , then slowly cooled and crystallized beneath studies of the Va lley in the - the sea born rock , as well as forming volcanoes on - mid 1 930s establishe d its ’ ’ - E R . the arth s surface much like today s Cascade ange U shape dp rofile c harac te r — This embryonic granite became exposed after the istic ofglac ia tio n and sedimentary and volcanic overburden gradually defin itive ly de mo lishe d the

r . the o ies ofJosiah D Whitney . eroded away . This relatively gentle landscape under went subsequent uplift and westward tilt that steep ened the western slope and intensified the erosive

- power of major westward flowing streams , which cut

- V shaped canyons as much as feet deep . Finally the u pw arping land mass cracked along the present Sierran crest and the land to the c ast was left behind as the range continued to rise , creating the steep eastern escarpment . The great Ice Age saw glaciers advance from the crest at least 1 0 times in the past two million years . k Where the granite was jointed and crac ed , glaciers quarried and carried away great blocks . Where the granite was solid , the glaciers could only scrape ,

. G exc a buff , and polish laciers ground , gouged , and vated the canyons wider and deeper as U- sha ped troughs , at the same time removing the lower sec tions of tributary stream channels that intersected the major canyons . The carving action of the gla ciers that moved through the troughs of the Merced and Tuolumne canyons left the side canyons as hanging valleys and their streams as plunging water ’ M f n falls . any o Yosemite s domes also were ac c e tu ated at this time , as ice overrode exfoliating granite outcroppings and removed remnants of broken outer layers or shells .

Muir’ s stature as naturalist and writer derives staying power from what he sought on his forays into the M Sierran wilderness . A clue lies with uir saying of Yosemite Valley : Every rock in its walls seems to glow with life . Muir was not looking simply for an H e origin for the Valley . sought a new way of seeing R k nature . oc s aglow with life suggest a living land

. R M scape emarkably , this seemed not to be for uir a metaphor but a statement of fact . Yosemite Valley

72

Be innin in 1 91 3 e o o ist North America . Accumulating sediments deposited g g , g l g Franco is Ma tthes de vo te d 1 7 on the sea floor built up thick layers of rock . Crustal years ofstu dy to the q uestio n forces , essentially intense heat and pressure , warped ’ of Yose mite Valley s fo rma ’ , l l l , these rock strata ifted them above sea eve and tio n . He fo u nd that Mu ir s D ac ia t e o r was e e ntia flexed them into a folded mountain range . uring gl l h y ss lly c o rre c t bu t t at Mu ir had this time molten rock welled up from within the , h

ve r tate hi c a e . mic E o s d s s Se is arth , then slowly cooled and crystallized beneath studies of the Valley in the - t e sea orn rock , as well as forming volcanoes on - h b mid 1 930s esta blishe d its ’ ’ - E k R . the arth s surface much li e today s Cascade ange U shape dpr ofile c harac te r — This embryonic granite became exposed after the istic ofglac ia tio n and sedimentary and volcanic overburden gradually definitive ly de mo lishe d the

r itne . the o ies ofJosiah D. Wh y eroded away . This relatively gentle landscape under went subsequent uplift and westward tilt that steep ened the western slope and intensified the erosive

- power of major westward flowing streams , which cut

- V shaped canyons as much as feet deep . Finally the u pw arping land mass cracked along the present Sierran crest and the land to the east w as left behind as the range continued to rise , creating the steep eastern escarpment . The great Ice Age saw glaciers advance from the crest at least 10 times in the past two million years .

Where the granite was jointed and cracked , glaciers quarried and carried away great blocks . Where the granite was solid , the glaciers could only scrape , G e xc a buff , and polish . laciers ground , gouged , and vate d the canyons wider and deeper as U- sha ped troughs , at the same time removing the lower sec tions of tributary stream channels that intersected the major canyons . The carving action of the gla ciers that moved through the troughs of the Merced and Tuolumne canyons left the side canyons as hanging valleys and their streams as plunging water ’ M f a e n u falls . any o Yosemite s domes also were c c t ated at this time , as ice overrode exfoliating granite outcroppings and removed remnants o f broken outer layers or shells .

Muir’ s stature as naturalist and writer derives staying power from what he sought on his forays into the

Sierran wilderness . A clue lies with Muir saying of Yosemite Valley : Every rock in its walls seems to M k glow with life . uir was not loo ing simply for an H origin for the Valley . e sought a new way of seeing R nature . ocks aglow with life suggest a living land

. R M scape emarkably , this seemed not to be for uir a metaphor but a statement of fact . Yosemite Valley

72

no t Use of e tc e tc y a ey was the ruins of a past creation , as many H h H h V ll as a re se r vo ir to su San - R pp ly 1 9th century scientists tho ught . ather it was an Franc isc o with wa te r was integral part of a living landscape . Yosemite was a app ro ve d w he n Preside n t a wilderness still being shaped by dynamic , const nt Wo o dro w Wilso n signe d into D l t R forces and processes . iscovery of active glaciers a w he ake r A c t o n D e

c e mbe r 1 1 1 . Mu r 9, 9 3 Jo n i , confirmed this premise for John Muir . h the Sie rra u b a nd o t e r Muir arrived at this view of nature as dynamic only Cl , h “ ’ c o nse r va tio n in te re sts bit through great psychic and ph sical hardship . ll y I te rly opp ose d damming the u m ne R ive r acquaint myself with the glaciers and wild gardens , Tu o l (bottom $ h t and in u nda tin e t o o) , in and g as near the heart of the world as I can , he p g ’ “ Mu ir s w o rds t is o t e r , h h . wrote This represented a painful break with the $ ’ Yose mite . Mu ir was de vas rigid orthodoxy of his family s deep Christian roots . tate d. A resu lt of this expl o i It also ran counter to the prevailing utilitarian ta tio n within a de signate d attitude toward nature that repeatedly threatened na tio na l p ark w as the c re a ’ tio n o the Na ti na Pa rk Yosemite Valley s integrity and le d to the tragic f o l

Se r v ic e in 1 91 6. I n 1 938 uo l u mne R , damming of the T iver and the inundation ’ O Sha u hness Dam w as H H M ’ “ $ M ’ g y of etch etchy , uir s other Yosemite . uir s raise d by 85 fe e t to its S ierran wanderings often involved great privation p re se n t he igh t. and harrowing danger . Yet it is his p e rspective that we would do well to adopt to assure the preservation o f Yosemite and , indeed , the future livability of our beleaguered planet . The rewards are considerable : 1 908 In a journal passage , arguing against the utili M tarian view of nature , uir wrote that the true ownership of the wilderness belongs in the highest $ degree to those who love it most .

no t Use of e tc e tc y a ey was the ruins of a past creation , as many H h H h V ll as a re se r vo ir to su San - R pp ly 1 9th century scientists thought . ather it was an Franc isc o wit wa te r was e h integral part of a living landscape . Yosemit was a a ro ve d w e n Pre side n t ’ pp h wilderness still being shaped by dynamic , constant Wo o dro w Wilso n signe d in to D la w the R a ke r forces and processes . iscovery of active glaciers A c t o n D e

c e mb e r 1 9 1 91 3. J n Mu ir , o , confirmed this premise for John Muir . h the Sie rra u b and o t e r Muir arrived at this view of nature as dynamic only Cl , h r “ ’ c o nse va tio n in te rests bit through great psychic and physical hardship . I ll te rly opp ose d da mming the u u mne R ive r acquaint myself with the glaciers and wild gardens , T o l (bottom $ h n u oto ) a d in nda tin , in and get as near the heart of the world as I can , he p g ’ “ Mu ir s w o rds t is o t e r , h h wrote . This represented a painful reak with the b $ Mu r ’ Yose m ite . i was de vas rigid orthodoxy of his family s deep Christian roots . tate d. A re su lt of this expl o i It also ran counter to the prevailing utilitarian ta tio n within a de signa te d attitude toward nature that repeatedly threatened na tio na l p a rk w as the c re a ’ ti n o th Na ti na P rk Yosemite Valley s integrity and le d to the tragic o f e o l a

Se r v ic e in 1 91 6. I n 1 938 R , damming of the Tuolumne iver and the inundation ’ O Shau h ne ss Da m w as H M ’ “ $ M ’ g y o f H . etch etchy , uir s other Yosemite uir s raise d by 85 fe e t to its r t Sierran wanderings often involved great privation p e se n he igh t. and harrowing danger . Yet it is his perspective that we would do well to adopt to assure the preservation of Yosemite and , indeed , the future livability of our : beleaguered planet . The rewards are considerable 1 908 In a journal passage , arguing against the utili M tarian view of nature , uir wrote that the true ownership of the wilderness belongs in the highest $ degree to those who love it most .

74

however unevenly—and so greatly determines who

and what in this natural regime lives where . Life forms tend to occur in zones roughly limited

by elevation , moisture , and exposure , making moun

tain surfaces like biotic layer cakes . At one time these zones were given such names as Upper So n - N oran and Arctic Alpine . ow they are correlated to the dominant plant types in their communities of

vegetation . The former Upper Sonoran of the Sier D ran foothills , for example , is now called the igger

- - Pine Chaparral Belt . Arctic Alpine corresponds to ’ Z today s Alpine one , whose rigors above treeline

make it the most uniform of global habitats .

Birds , adept at rapid vertical travel , can exploit a

wealth of habitats to sustain themselves . The pere grine falcon is a predatory bird of cliffs and moun

tain heights , a fabled speedster that dives as fast as D 200 miles per hour . espite its own relatively light ’ weight , the falcon s dive , or stoop , can break the — — bones of and knock unconscious its prey . Grown

men have been knocked out by falcons . The peregrine falcon is an endangered species o r whose only known active nests , eyries , in the N N entire Sierra evada are in Yosemite ational Park . Peregrines have been driven to the brink of extinction o f - by the use organo chlorine pesticides , especially DD P T. esticide residues in contaminated prey

accumulate further in the falcon , perched as it is

atop its food pyramid . In the female this leads to thinning of the —b 36 eggshell y as much as percent , although the critical level is just 1 5 percent $R eproductive failure E follows in three to five years . ggshell thinning leads to egg breakage by the incubating female or even H dehydration . igh pesticide loads can even directly P S poison the embryo . In recent years the ark ervice ,

in collaboration with a private research group , has helped the peregrines by augmenting the nest in

- Yosemite Valley . The thin shelled natural eggs are removed to be hatched in a laboratory incubator and

replaced with artificial eggs . Just before the natural

eggs would normally hatch , the artificial eggs are replaced with two or three newly hatched nestlings

hatched in captivity . These chicks are immediately

adopted by the nesting pair and raised as their own . Manipulations such as augmenting falcon nests point up some of the difficulties and dilemmas of

82 ’ managing natural systems in today s world . Ideally , natural ecosystems and processes would simply be ’ left alone . But the peregrine falcon s important niche in the natural scheme suffers from continued L use of DDT in atin American countries , where migratory birds that falcons prey upon accumulate DT D residues , and from other pesticides still in use in the United States. The primary objective of the park ’ s resources management program is to restore , maintain , and , as practicable , simulate the natural processes that have ’ influenced the development of the park s ecosystems . The restoration of altered systems and the re intro duction of certain species are necessary to achieve this objective . The goal is to restore , to the fullest extent feasible , natural conditions that can be main tained by allowing natural processes to operate F N P largely unimpaired . ittingly , the ational ark Ser vice began aiding the falcon in the same decade that Congress designated 90 percent of the park as wilder ness and the park was named a World Heritage Site . Forests where natural fire has been suppressed fo r as much as a century may require restoration of P more natural conditions . ristine forests were more

Open than contemporary forests , with less dead and down wood and fewer trees crowding their under stories . Sporadic fires burned frequently enough F to preclude such fuel buildup . ire suppression has created the potential for destructive holocausts , allowing the density and height o f the understory to E increase . nough forest litter and undergrowth build up to fuel hot fires that can burn through protective bark and reach the crowns o ftall trees . To correct problems stemming from well - inten tio ned fire- suppression and to restore natural condi ’ now tions , the park s resource managers use pre F scribed burning . ires are set to simulate the burning patterns and intensities of natural fires and restore ’ fire s proper ecological role in the natural scheme . Prescribed burns are set only under optimum - F weather and fuel moisture conditions . urthermore , natural fires may be allowed to burn if they do no t re threaten public safety, historic or archeological sources , buildings and campgrounds , or sensitive resources . Fire is especially important fo r perpetuating giant L - sequoia groves . ong term ecological studies show

83 In su a ne and a ne re a ms ov e rs ze d root s ste ms mat ome a ne owe rs are o b l pi l pi l i y , S l pi fl p lli ofthe mo unta n wo r d sma is t n succ u e nt eav e s and re d nate d not b e e s b ut b s i i l ll i g , l l , y b y p — m v n al r w e aut u and most ra me ntat o n. o e de s ose ood re ma ns b if l p g pig i S li i g , h bl i n t n n nt r m t rown w r m nd n o o s e a s a e a os u d at o t m r t r . mati c . De a i g c di i pi pl l b liq i l e e pe a u e s c a e n e ant and an ma rat e r t an re e n a e ature Hi h co untr e rs o te n w it h ll g pl i l h h g , f g y hik f surv i v al : e xtre me w i nte r te m th at prote cts th e m f ro m de ne ss spide rs sc ampe ri ng ov e r e rature s e rs ste nt w nds struct ve sun ra s t at the t n snow an s to sc av e n e the p , p i i , i y h hi b k g s o rt row n se asons t n atmos e re at e e vat o ns co d- e num e d nse cts t at h g i g , hi ph hi gh l i l b b i h w rf m r w t in r so s and e x osure to nte nse c annot sc re e n o ut . a s u d a ts a o m lowe r e le il , p i D i p f f f

sunli g ht c o ntribute to de se rt and matti ng ke e p pl ants low to vatio ns . With e xc e pti o ns suc h Ba ant the ro nd w r o nd t o ns r o r t t nn Iike cond t o ns . s c u e e c as a ass e a ca ot i i i pl g , h i i g h pp h ' adaptati o ns to th e se h arsh are l ess sev e re than just i nc hes fly and the pika s fur-c ov e re d b e t nimal av t to cond t o ns nc ude dwar sm e r. e st t s o urse e a s e ada e d i i i l fi , hig h T hi y lf y f , h p lyi ng down on a mo untai n pass th e se de mandi ng c o nditi o ns o n a wi ndy day and th e n sitti ng N w r n n up. o onde nothi g sta ds tall in thi s mo untai n re alm$

te ar ne krumm o z 6 Whi b k pi , h l

3 Ye ll ow - be lli e d mar

‘ n and a ne re a ms ov e rze d roo t s ste ms mat ln subal pi e l pi l y , th mo unta n wo rld sma is tin mc c ule nt e av e s and red of e i ll g l , — m be autiful and most prag pig e ntatio n . S o e li v i ng al m n n o nd t o ns ine lants are a most row n mati c . De a di g c i i p l b c a e n e lant and animal rathr t an re e n a e ature h ll g p h g , f surv iv al : e xtre me wi nte r te m thatrotec ts th e m f rom de e ratures ers ste nt w nds strttiv e sun ra s t at the t n p , p i i , y h hi s o rt row n se aso ns t n atms he re at e e v at o ns h g i g , hi p hi g h l i

so an x o sure to nte nse c arrot sc re e n o ut . war m s , d e p s U dra ts wa t i il i D fi p f f n from lowerele sun t c o ntr ute to de se rt andi attin e e ants low to vati g g p p o ns . W t li h ib k l i h e xce pti ons such

n n . ro n w r e co d t o s Bas c p ant the u d , e e c o nd t o ns as a ra lik i i i l h i i g ssh o ppe r that cannot ' adaptat o ns to t e se ars are ss sev e re t an j ust nc e s $ and th - i h h h h i h y e pi ka s fur covered

cond t o ns nc ude dwar sm ar. e st t s o urs , h g h y e by e e t an ma s i i i l fi i T i lf f , i l h ave adaptedto Iyindown o n a mo unta n pass t e se de mand i h i ng conditi ons o n wi ndy day and th e n sitti ng updo w o nde r nothi ng stands talh thi s mo untai n re al m$

Plants and animals of th e 4 Al pi ne b uc kwheat mo untain wo rld: 5 White bark pi ne ’ 6 Wh lt ar l ' kmm e ' t IZ 1 Re d- ta e d aw il h k Wh ifgfieStgei 2 a Pik Dwarfwillow 3 Ye ow- be e d marmot ll lli Map lic he n h arv e st and sto re hay in late summe r and fall fo r w i nte r c o n rm t sumpti o n . M a o s b uild body fat in pre parati o n fo r hibe rna B r are the most le nti ti o n . i ds p ful v e rte b rate ani mal s h e re e c ause b n t e c an b , y flyi g , h y re adily dip i nto se v e ral e c osys ra r e a co ns te ms fo r fo od. P i i f l and oth e r rapto rs pre y ov e r v ast are as f ro m th e i r mo untai n

Rosy Fi nc h Al pi ne fo rget- me - not Campi on or catc hfly

Hai rcap moss What is the difference be that p e riodic fire create s both the h e at and the $ tween se uoias and redwoods q soil conditions sequoia see ds require for successful The ian t se u o ia be o w has g q , l , . F - germination ibrous , thick sequoia bark naturally a c o u m n ike tru nk u e l l ; h g , th e e e ro a s to u t b ra nc h e s ; a nd its bark protects tre against fir s that help ensure p p - H I t ie n a i n . is c innam o n c o lo re d. s sc g t o of the species istoric photographs depict tific nam e is Se q u o iade ndro n e th se groves as more open than today . Occasional I t is so me time s gigante um . natural wildfires once de stroyed the white firs that c a e d the Sie rra re dw o o d. ll ’ now crowd the groves understori e s and produce

Th e ta lle r a nd m o re sle nde r shade that sequoia seedlings cannot tolerate . c o ast re dw o o d Se uo ia se m , q M 1 986 To rectify another resource deficit , in arch , D F G th e the California epartment of ish and ame , N P US . F e ational ark Service , and the orest S rvice reintroduced California bighorn sheep to the ir for H mer igh Sierra habitat in the vicinity of th e park . A relativ e ly large and wide spre ad population of the se rene and grace ful bighorns once inhabited Yosem ’ ite s high country , but the animal was declared

' extinct in the park in 1 9 1 4 . Although environmental

conditions again favor the bighorns , the vast dis tance b e tween Yosemite and the nearest occupied habitat to the south mad e natural re occupation in

this are a extremely unlikely . Thus mountain big horns from a southern Sierra herd were relocated to Le e Vining Canyon just east of the park , where they

could be came habituate d to the winter range . Some e th e fe w e of the transplanted sheep di d in first we ks ,

but as spring progressed , the ewes started dropping lambs and some of the young rams began roaming

into th e park . ’ Key factors in the bighorn s extirpation h e re were e hunting outside the park , range encroachm nt , and diseases introduced by domestic sheep that onc e M e grazed in the park . John uir b gan his Yosemite sojourn as a sh e e pherder but became a vocal oppo nent of these “ hooved locusts for their destruction of ’ H e Yosemite s high meadows . e would doubtl ss love to e see today the curled rack and profil of the dignified , ’ inquisitive bighorn punctuate Yosemite s skyline . o ne th e The grizzly bear , time the lord of realm ’ here , lord of all except Yosemite s air space , dis

appeared around the turn of the century . The last grizzly killed in Yose mite met its fate east of Wawona 200 e in 1 895 . California boasts grizzly b ar place ’ e names and the bear s imag adorns its flag , but the last sighting in the state occurred in Sequoia Na ’ tio nal Park in 1 924 . (The bruin on California s flag was sketched from a Yosemite grizzly by artist

86

n n In total vo l ume the g i a t se Fro m se e d to sapling . Gi a t ' q uo ia is the wo rld s l arge st liv se q uo i as spro ut o nly fro m

m r . r m r ing thi ng . Bo ug h s of atu e se eds Eac h ye a atu e tre e s seq uo i as appe ar to ado rn sto ut may produc e co ne s th at co l umns rath e r th an trunks . co ll ecti ve ly be ar h alf a milli on Si ngl e se q uo i a li mbs may b e se e ds so small and light th ey - ar e r t an re c o rd s ze d tre e s oo e oat a e s . Gre e n l g h i l k lik fl k , ofman s e c e s and t e re a c ose d and a o ut the s ze of y p i h o l , b i ’ e ar to be no b uult- in m ts to e ns e s c o ne s ma sta o n p li i h gg , y y '

wt . r 2 th e se tre e s gro h Se q uo i as a tre e fo 0 ye ars . Afte r fo ur o r v r do not die ofo ld age . fi e ye a s li c h e n g rowth may se al th e m sh ut so th ey nn t t c a o re l ease h e i r se e ds . Th re e age nts h e lp seq uo i a r se eds e ac h the g ro und. r m t m 1 . Fi e ay dry h e and

cause a se e d e xplosi o n .

Bro wn c o ne re ady to dispe rse w m r s u rre s v o v e d asional or t r . r 2 . The o u as s u rre o r ne co e e c e s e s es not D g l q i l , ; q i l l f fi Fi

are e eats the c one s and o n 20 m on ears a o . on are the so but also burn c hi c k . l y illi y g ly b il ff m n re l e ase s th e i r se e ds . o c o pe ti g small e r spec i e s rv ofa t n c one ust reac n the ro und doe s suc as the s ade -to rant 3. La ae i y J hi g g h h l e

’ t w r i Fir h r f r bo r n b e e tle a so e e r not assure at se e ds e w te f r. e t e e o e is vi i g l h l p p h ill g hi , ,

m n t . Th od fo r a v n tal for i petuate the seq uo i a spec i e s . i a e e ds g i e se q uo a reproduc tive

Ch ew i ng th e i r way to the se e d se e ds we igh succ e ss. Fo r many ye ars all ' cone s nne r t ssue t e c ut ust one o und—to roduce res we re su re sse d in the i i , h y j p p fi pp ' k it r nt r its ve ns . The c one t e n dr e s anot e r ant e s a e a e ar to these re at tre es det i h i h gi li p p k , g

o m t f ll m n . n o ut and sh ri nks and itsse e ds sli m. A se q u i a se e d us a ri e t Si ce 1 9 7 1 some light Th b tl on bar m ne ral so n t n n r n a to the ro und. e ee e e o e n e s a d re sc r be d f ll g i il , pi i g fi p i ma we ave be e n assoc ate d du e cause the e ne r urns ave romote d ne w y ll h i ff , b gy b h p w t th o a n t s tor d in th n ro i h e se q u i si ce hi s e e se e d ca p duce growth . ’ spe c i e s ge nesi s 1 5 0 milli on a tap root th at re ac he s only Th i n n i r . r o n n In ant ye a s ago e c hi c ka e e s a e i c h le gth . gi se q uo ia groves areas ofso il are ge ne rally e xpose d o nly by oc

Cambium l aye r

Fire scar

S apwo od

In nature se uoia sa lin , q p gs fir tre e s may grow th is c lose do not row ri ht ne xt t he g o t to a se uoia howe ve r. he ir g q , T pare nt tre e as shown he re fo r b urning can le ave fir scars i ’ de nti icatio n ur ose s. White n th f p p o e se q uo ia s bark.

89 In total vo l ume th e g i ant se F rom se e d to sapling . Gi ant ’ q uo ia is the wo rld s l arge st liv se q uo i as spro ut o nly fro m m r B f tur s . E ar m t tr ing thi ng . o ugh s o a e se e d ac h ye a u e e e s se q uo i as appear to ado rn sto ut may produc e co ne s th at co l umns rath e r th an trunks . c o ll e cti ve ly be ar h alf a milli o n Si ngl e seq uo i a li mbs may be se e ds so small and li ght th ey

- ar e r t an re co rd s ze d tre e s loo e oat la e s . Gre e n l g h i k lik f k , ofman s e c e s and t e re a c ose d and abo ut the s ze of y p i , h p l , i ' e ar to b e no b u t- in m ts to e ns e s c o ne s ma sta o n p il li i h gg , y y ' w a tr f r 2 0 r . t the se tre e s g ro th . Se q uo i as e e o ye a s Af e r fo ur r do not die ofo ld age . o r fiv e ye a s li c h e n growth may se al th e m sh ut so th ey annot re a t r c l e se h e i se eds . Th re e age nts h e l p se q uo i a r t r se e ds e ac h he g o und . 1 r a dr t m n . Fi e m y y h e a d

cause a se e d e xpl osi o n .

Brown c o ne re ady to dispe rse

M ature Ge rmi nati ng se ed

88

' Th e o ffic ial spe c i e s di sc o v e ry se mi te s Tuo l umne G rov e in Th e se mammoth tre e s i nnab date fo r th e ant se uo a is 1 8 33 and t e ma a so av e ite d re mote w de rne ss and g i q i , h y y l h il , Th n w f re arde d as une 1 8 5 2 w e n se e n the e rc e d rov e . e e s o t e m me t s e t c sm g J , h M G h k p i i r h n r - an arti c l e abo ut th e tre e s w as Walke r pa ty c rosse d t e Si a d sc o n . A 2 0 foot c ross se c ' h rr n th nd n o no r t o n f u s e d and c rc u ate d . T e e a o e a s a o a se uo a trun s e d p bli h i l I i M T il , i q i k hi pp th r f i fi rst auth e nti c re c o rd ofthe e sse nti ally e o ute o th e e ast n 1 8 7 5 fo r th e US . Ce n - nni l g i ant se q uo i a was publi sh e d pre se nt trans parkTi oga R oad . te a e xposi ti o n th e fo ll ow in e nns v an a in 1 8 39 b ut Th e ar osa rov e was rst in e ar was d s ara e d as a P yl i , M i p G fi g y i p g n - n i 1 7 r C a o n . n n m n urn n b o n d ans n 8 5 . a oax o e rs di the pri ti g c o pa y b e d se e . y I i lif i h L gg d to the gro und be fo re the news The Me rc e d G rov e was not no t ne e d c o nv i nc i ng : O ne pape rs we re di strib ute d and di sc ove re d until 1 8 7 0 duri ng g i ant se q uo i a c an yi e l d as the arti c l e was not di sc ov e re d a surv e y fo r the fi rst wago n muc h wo od as an ac re ofv ir

r nt m t . i . n fo r many ye ars J ose ph Walke road i o Yo se i e Vall e y g Pac ifi c N o rthw e st fo re st . and h is party di sc ov e re d th e Logge rs se t to wo rk w ith a v T gi ant tre e s in w h at is now Yo e nge anc e . o dro p the l arge st tre e s re q ui re d 2 2 days ofw o rk f ro m fo ur me n usi ng axe s and m n r o st o us c rossc ut saws . o n fallin the ant trun s re ssure to sav e th e 7 5 re rst at o na Par S e rv c e U p g , g i k p Fi N i l k i m n re to r o te n s atte re d and s nte re d a n se uo a rov e s all c S te e n . Mat e r f h pli i i g q i g , Di ph T h i nto fragme nts of no e c o no mi c l oc ate d o n the we ste rn fl ank and h is daug hte r po se be si de f a ant m t av o th rra v m nt . se u v a ue . t e r e c e s e e e e ada o u ed o a trun c ress l O h pi ig h h Si N , g i q i k be e n too b ig to mov e and so The move me nt was gui de d by se c ti o n in 1 9 2 8 (ph o to be l o w

- had to b e bl aste d i nto trans pe o pl e suc h as J o h n M ui r and l e ft) . Tre e ri ng dati ng pl ac e s ‘ th tr l . w e e e Co e o r e . t art a s rt rta e un s . t o u e at 2 o c 9 3 . Th p bl h k Al h g h G g W S , bi h e we a and r tt e se uo a sa a Ca o rn a o urna st . awo na unne re e c e nte r k b i l , q i Vi li , lif i , j li W T l T ( wood is ph e no me nally de cay The G al e n Cl ark tre e in ph oto ) was tunne l e d th ro ug h ’ r m os m t r r v as a c ur re si stant . It fo und a e ady ar Y e i e s M a i posa G o e i osity fo r wago ne rs k t f r th m nu t r n f co mme mo rate s the man w h and ate r mot r e o e a fac u i g o o l o i sts . The ph o to e nc e o sts s n e s and d scov e re d e x o re d and first o n th e r t s o ws v s to rs at f p , hi g l , i , pl , ig h h i i

' li i i th e Mar tr w r ub c ze d th s rov . C r osa r v ra e sta e s . ar e e e s e e e a o e in 1 g p k L g p g l k i p G 9 31 .

’ al so c ut fo r e xhibiti o ns both be c ame its fi rst guardian afte r n r f w w r h e re a d ab o ad . A e e e c ut dow n j ust to pro ve how b ig th ey w e re . Ev e ntuall y publi c i nte rmitte ntl y ov er a 30- ye ar To the casual observer self- sustaining populations If the re is an anima l that s mb o izes natio na arks it of trout in Yosemite lakes may seem perfectly y l l p , is the a Y u bl c k be ar. o may natural . And black bears , having no natural enemies no t se e o ne in ose mite bu t Y , except humans , appear natural . Were there trout in i o u do it wi be an fy , ll Yosemite lakes before the Ice Age glaciers lumbered ex c iting expe rie nc e e ve n fro m the safe distanc e yo u through , killed them off , and left waterfalls that isolated them $ Was there a time when grizzly bears are advise d to ke ep . were — as now —not present to share this community with black bears$ As a baseline for its resources management pro gram the National Park Service adopts the ideal of a E pristine Yosemite . cological processes were largely undisturbed here when the men of the Mariposa Battalion rode their horses down into Yosemite Ahw h n h e Valley . The a e ec e living in the Valley before its 1 85 1 discovery did not greatly disturb the P ecological integrity of the areas they used . ark managers therefore take the environment of that period as the ecological benchmark for restorations and reintroductions . But even at that , no one seri o usly proposes to bring back the wolf and the grizzly bear because the park boundary could not contain k their predatory mobility . And par managers have no plans to poison those hundred and more Yosem k 1 850 ite la es that now contain trout but did not in , although this remains an option . E k cologically there is much we do not now . We must simply work with nature to the best of our P present understanding . atient cooperation , listen P ing , and astute observation increase wisdom . res k sures from within and without the par , even from other hemispheres , and the reality of many previous disruptions of the natural regime preclude our exe r cising unequivocally the ultimate wisdom of letting nature be .

92

l To day 2 5 0 to 35 0 bl ac k be ars e y dump. Th e y al so w e re fe d roam thi s park th at o nc e al so ne ar l o dge s to e nte rtai n v is ito r : h arbo re d th e g ri zzl y be ar. The s a bl ac k be ar o nc e ate 7 2 av e rage de ns ity is o ne bl ac k fl apj ac ks w ith syrup at a sitti ng ’ m t ll- be ar to two sq uare mil e s . M ost Yose i e s—a ti me re c o rd ye ars now th e re may b e th re e l arge be ar 6 9 0 po unds be ars - thi s v ari e s se aso nall y re ac h e d th at l arge s i ze o nl y — v n in o se m te a e a e c ause ofartific ial oo d li i g Y i V ll y , b f

go o d numbe r fo r the av ail abl e so urc e s . A naturally fo rag i ng In r r r m t r natural fo rage . e a li e pa k a u e bl ac k be ar h e re range s days be fo re th e N ati o nal Park w i de l y to fi nd se aso nally av ail S e rv i c e be gan aggre ssi v e ly abl e foods and we i g h s 2 00 to - managi ng h uman be ar c o n 300 po unds . Th e se be ars c an

tac ts u to 6 0 e ars v e d in ru n at s e e ds u to 30 m h . , p b li p p p the Valle and t e o nc e wo re y , h y a six- i nc h - de e p path to a Val

hav io r of be ars and to pre ve nt pe rso nal inj urie s and pro pe rty

e o e ma av e v s te d th e oft e se e o e . e c a e d a ute e o e w o se lan P pl y h i i h p pl Th y ll P i p pl , h Yo se m te re o n nte rm tte nt t e r o me wa ne e me an ua e and custo ms we re d fe r i g i i i ly h i h Ah h , g g if “ r in v that oo n ase ariy as ye a s g all e y l ks like a e t f ro m th e Miw o k . Al th o ug h t ars a o a n mo ut and t e m re arde d w t sus o n a o . o u e c b g Ab y g g pi g h , h g i h pi i y e o e had e un to se tt e n se v e s th e Ahw ah ne e c h e e mo st wo t e se e o e p pl b g l i l , Mi k , h p pl o t me an n dwe e rs in Ahwah w e re th e o n so r f m Yose mi te Valle y . Ab u AD i g ll l y u c e o ite s v i m 1 200 a c u ture re c o ne e . n n ose te a e the w o w ante d suc as o b , l g Li i g Y i V ll y Mi k , h nizab lé as th e re de c e sso r of dur n s umme r t e a ar s d an ne nuts ra t- s n p i g , h y pp i i , pi , bbi ki

n- rr wo e nt m rate d dow n to th e an t an n t In e a e s d se c o o ds . Si Mi k ly i g bl k , i f rr t f r w m he d in th e re o n . e a oo s o the nte r. re turn th e ose te wo e x g i Si f hill i , Y i Mi k ' the anc e sto rs of Th e Ahwah ne e c he e s c o ntac t c h ange d bl ac k b rac ke n fe rn still li v e in Yo w i th o uts i de rs w as pri nc i pally ro ot ( use d fo r patte rns in b as r m S o uth e rn Miwo k fo r trade . F o c oastal tribe s t e mse v e s to ne ar th e ac c c e an th e h l P ifi O , te d in th e land pe o pl e o btai ne d abal o ne and “

Th In t r t v . me . e o h e sh e ll s h e y al ue d hig hly li v e d in Yose mite O n the e ast s i de ofth e Si e rra N e v ada li v e d th e M o no t ak e o rm n v a e s w t re s de nt i r t th ln i i u s de e r and tro ut . S e ne s o u e d ans n b lb , , p F i g ill g i h i Mi f gh c ialize d me t ods o f at e r n wo e o e t e ra de d th e o ot s b ut wo u d ose h g h i g Mi k p pl , h y i f hill l l t e se oods as wel as s e c c ranc os o n th e c o ast and trac oft e m as t e retre ate d h f , l p ifi h k h h y coo n te c n ue s h ad e e n drov e e rds of o rse s to th e ki g h iq , b h h de v e o e d o v e r the c e ntur e s e rra w e re h o rse e s b e osa Battal o n was o rme d in l p i Si , h fl h p i f the pe o pl e li v e d h e re . Th e ar came a ri v al o fth e S pani ards o n the Few no t the e rra v ada e o re th e t n Califo rni a c oast in the l a e Si N e b f pu an e d to the c o nfli c ts .

’ ’ th at th e S paniards b uiit to c o n

ll m f m ’ Va e y . S o e o Yo se ite s na ti v e pe o pl e we re re l o c ate d fo r a fe w mo nth s to the F re sno v e r e se rv at o n and th e Ri R i , tt n b a ali o was di sbande d .

Mo rning : o n th

The I ndi an Vill age be hi nd th e both fe de ral and l oc al gov e rn pe o pl e c o nti nue d to li v e in m w r t Vall e y Vi si to r Ce nte r i nte r e nts . M ost pe o pl e o e e s abli sh e d nati v e v ill age s in pre ts th e I ndi an pe o pl e o f c l oth e s c ast off by w hite s o r Yo se mite Vall e y i nto th e e arly n i h r 1 8 7 2 ur a e d w t o d t had ar oft n In th wa e e n t e e a c s e e s s c e tur . e Ah h y , p h i h g l h y y hi y 1 2 0 ye ars afte r th e i r initial panne d f ro m l o c al stre ams . 9 308 111 6 N ati o nal Park S e r - N w o o su as r n v t c o ntact w ith no n l ndians . e f ds c h b e ad a d i c e e s abli sh e d a ne w I ndi an m B m Th e n oftwo m ne rs in Yo to rt as e c a e o u ar. a e ov n the re s de nts killi g i ill b p p l y Vill g , i g i se mi te Vall e y in 1 8 5 2 had le d the 1 8 7 0s Pai ute pe o pl e f ro m ofth e l ast v ill age i nto th e ne w

to th e o r an zat o n ofa se c o no a e w t w o m the o use s . In th e 1 9 6 03 so me of g i i M L k , i h h h o nd atta o n t at e xe c ute d o se m te had lo n trade d the e o e e t ose m te o de r b li h Y i g , p pl l f Y i , l fiv e Yose mite I ndi ans fo r pur be gan to se ttl e in Yose mite me mbe rs ofth e tribal g ro up t r o rte dl n the m ne rs . In a e a are n u e d b the d e d and a fe w am e s mov e d p y killi g i V ll y, pp ly l y i , f ili j ust a fe w ye ars life had prospe c t ofe mpl oyme nt by i nto N ati o nal Park Se rv i c e ot m nt r c h ange d dramati c ally fo r the l oc al b usi ne sse s . H e l s e re si de i al a e as w ith oth e r

B th mi n n o a m . In 7 Ahwah ne e c he e . y e d pl oye d I di a pe pl e s h o use e pl oye e s 1 9 0 the l oc al 1 8 5 03 oc a re s de nts we re e e e rs aundre sse s u de s nat v e e o e o rme d the l l i k p , l , g i , i p pl f e r e nd n t e m and t e and sta e ands and o u t me r c an nd an Co unc of b f i i g h , h y bl h b gh A i I i il parti c i pate d in tre aty ne gotia tro ut fro m th e m to put o n M ari posa Co unty to g i ve th e m n n v v in r ti o ns w ith c o mmi ssi o ne rs of hote l re staurant tabl e s . I di a se l e s a o i c e affai s th at w wo rmw o to s o ura ih t ofo ak co nc e rn th e m. To day a fe o d di c ge b uil po sts and shi ng l e d w w - . I famili e s of nati v e Miw o k and se c t i ntrus i o ns Th e y e re ith i nc e nse c e dar bark . t ute e o e v e in ose m te c a e d w t ne ne e d e s se rv e d c e re mo n a ur ose s Pai p pl li Y i pp i h pi l , i l p p a e w e re t e are e m wo rmwood and nc e nse -c e dar danc n and ra e r—and st V ll y , h h y , i i g p y ill

o nd ro ne o s . Th m r w pl oye d by the N ati o nal Park bark . P e sa pi b ugh do e s e s all e s e ath o use

e rv c e w e ot e r de se e n we re use d as t atc n . was use d fo r ur cat o n b e S i , hil h h hi g p ifi i - n T de nts li ve in M ari posa Co unty Ch uc k a s c o uld h o l d up to fo re danc i ng o r h unti ng . he

- and t ro u o ut the we ste rn 5 00 o unds ofac o rns . c o rns wo dwe n c a e d u mu h gh p A Mi k lli g , ll w r n h w n te d tate s . e e dr e d s e e d o u de d c a as u t of ne and U i S i , h ll , p , , b il pi and s ifte d and th e re sulti ng c e dar po l e s th atc h e d w ith 7 2 t o r o r t r m v it n - B th In 1 8 the s a e o d e u e ac e d o e o e s c e nse c e dar ar . e , pl f fl l h i b k y Th n 1 ma ne d ac o ak ac o rns c o l tann c ac d . e e ac ro 8 9 0s t s trad t o na dwe n i bl k , i i l hi g p hi i i l lli g

rn w r d o r in t r r . w v n lecte d in th e fall . Ac o s e e uc e d fl u s h e e g ade s as g i i g way to h o me s fas h sto re d in g ranari e s c all e d The fi ne st w as use d fo r thi n io ne d afte r si mpl e pi o ne e r

- - m so . Th mi r w n . ch uck ah s. Th e se s i pl e up e d g ade as use d c abi s - T struc ture s of i nc e nse c e dar o r fo r mush . he c o arse st fl o ur ne o e s ra e v ne and was use d to ma e oav e s ofa pi p l , g p i , k l - T w ow de e rb rush o r w te fir e e c o ns ste nc . he ill , , hi j lly lik i y ranc e s we re ne d w t h an i o r ro und o use was b h li i h g , h ,

F x Amidst Suc h l u , An Island of Stabi l ity

th e We were married here in valley last year , and ’ $ e R o n now we re returning for our anniv rsary , Voss L e and Janet Olson of San or nzo , California , told a “ writer for the Conservation Foundation . This place $ e e R o n is n v r the same , said of Yosemite Valley , “ ’ $ yet it s like coming home . John Muir said as much of the Sierran peaks rising above and beyond Yosem ’ ite s spectacular Valley : G oing to the mountains is going home . We always find that the strangest obj e cts in these mountain wilds are in some degree e familiar , and we look upon th m with a vague sense of having seen them before . What a sense of stability Yose mite evokes $Whether e you seek to stabilize your patt rn of living , your psyche , or your spirit , you find comfort in the feeling that Yosemite will be he re fore ver . One generation of rock climbers may se e Yose mite Valley as a e temple , the next gen ration as a mere gymnasium ,

be e e . but for both it will th r In contrast , most American cities will b e rebuilt within 50 or 1 00 F years . amilies commonly move from state to state , and in a social sea of such mobility , Yosemite constitutes an island of constancy . Amidst such flux Yosemite offers a good place to define family and interpersonal relationships . To make such claims might suggest nostalgic speculation except that so many people return to e Na Yosemite so many times . Yos mite boasts the ’ tio n al P ark System s highest rate of repeat visitation , ’ - a remarkable 67 perce nt . Two thirds of Yosemite s visitors have been he re be fore . Many return time and again . “ I was born in 1 92 1 and made my first trip to e e rand ar Yos mit as a baby , with my parents and g p $ “

1 23. P . 9 ents , Jack hinney reminisced That was in M w h o They slept me on a cot . y grandmother , was — e camping with us , had done a lot of baking cooki s , M e buns , and bread . y folks kept these goodi s in a wicker suitcase under my cot . The tent had no floor .

1 09 One night a bear came into the tent undetected , o u t 3 pulled that suitcase , dragged it off about 0 ’ o f yards , and ate every last piece my grandmother s

. e e baking The bear ate thr e dozen cooki s , some M buns , and two loaves of bread . y folks got the ’ th e wicker suitcase back in morning , with the bear s ’ claw marks in it . Of course , I don t remember the $ incident , Jack said . I was just a baby . But I remember being told about it and I remembe r seeing M the wicker suitcase . y grandparents still used it for $ years after that . According to the diary Jack ’ s father kept of the 8 trip , the bear raided their larder on Sunday , July , 1 923 1 4 , in Camp , the campground now known as

Lower Pines . The next night they secured their food

so the bears could not steal it . Jack recently retired from his career in vocational

' arts teaching and administratio n in Lo s Ange les area F r public schools . o part of each year now he wears a N P special ational ark Service uniform , not the stand

' a ard ranger uniform , but khaki shirt with a different VIP— - - . M patch Jack is a a Volunteer in Parks . any

people who love national parks , such as Jack , are giving their time and talents to augment reduced P S ark Service staffs , enabling the ervice to stretch

tight budgets further . “From the time I was a baby until I was out of high ’ school th e re were only maybe tw o years that I didn t $ “ go to Yosemite , Jack said . Then , when I was in the Navy aboard a heavy cruiser in the Pacific theater of ’ World War II , I missed a couple of years . But I don t ’ ’ think I ve missed a year since then . It j ust didn t $ seem like a complete year unless I went to Yosemite . His e fath r , a teacher before him , had summers off , and his family would camp in the same area every “ year . You would make friends who would come up

to Yosemite from year to year . Some people stayed M all summer back then . aybe the family would stay up and th e fathers would work during th e weeks and to come up on weekends . You looked forward

seeing your Yosemite friends each summer . 1 9305 When the opened , Jack was nine years old and the world of Yosemite travel was far different “ from today . There were lots of bears in the Valley and bear j ams on the road because the bears were o n still being fed . Yosemite Village was located the

south side of the Valley then , near Sentinel Bridge .

1 1 0

One night a bear came into the tent undetected , o ff 3 pulled that suitcase out , dragged it about 0 ’ o f yards , and ate every last piece my grandmother s Th e baking . bear ate three dozen cookies , some M buns , and two loaves of bread . y folks got the ’ wicker suitcase back in the morning , with the bear s ’ claw marks in it . Of course , I don t remember the $ incident , Jack said . I was j ust a baby . But I remember being told about it and I remember seeing M the wicker suitcase . y grandparents still used it for $ years after that . According to the diary Jack ’ s father kept of the S 8 trip , the bear raided their larder on unday , July , 1 923 1 4 , in Camp , the campground now known as

Lo wer Pines . The next night they secured their food

so the bears could not steal it . Jack recently retired from his career in vocational

‘ arts teaching and administratio n in Lo s Ange les area Fo r f public schools . part o each year now he wears a N P no t special ational ark Service uniform , the stand

“ ard ranger uniform , but a khaki shirt with a different VIP— - - . M patch Jack is a a Volunteer in Parks . any

people who love national parks , such as Jack , are giving their time and tal e nts to augment reduced P S ark Service staffs , enabling the ervice to stretch

tight budgets further . “From the time I was a baby until I was out of high school there were only maybe two years that I didn ’ t $ “ go to Yosemite , Jack said . Then , when I was in the Navy aboard a heavy cruiser in the Pacific theater of ’ World War II , I missed a couple of years . But I don t ’ ’ think I ve missed a year since then . It j ust didn t $ seem like a complete year unless I went to Yosemite . His father , a teacher before him , had summers off , and his family would camp in the same area every “ year . You would make friends who would come up

to Yosemite from year to year . Some people stayed M all summer back then . aybe the family would stay up and the fathers would work during the weeks and w to come up on weekends . You looked for ard $ seeing your Yosemite friends each summe r . 1 9305 When the opened , Jack was nine years old and the world of Yosemite travel was far different “ from today . There were lots of bears in the Valley and bear jams on the road because the be ars were

still be ing fed . Yosemite Village was located on the

south side of the Valley then , near Sentinel Bridge .

1 1 0 Th e road divided around a sequoia tre e that had ’ - e e be e n planted the re . It wasn t a high sp ed road th n , th e and you could drive off it anywhere , into woods e e o r into th e me adows . I rem mb r as a child the e v th e o ld danc hall , mo ie house , and barber shop in e e Yosemite Village . Ther was a large op n dump by ’ e e e e e Camp Curry , but it didn t s m to both r p opl at $

e . all . We took it for granted th n e Camping is an old tradition at Yosemite . Jam s H 1 855 Mason utchings and his tourist party , as well e e e as subsequ nt arly visitors , camped with saddl and e e pack horse s . Aft r roads reached the Vall y , wagons and buggi e s transported many campers and the ir para phe rnalia eve n though hotels had begun springing up ’

e 1 856 th e e H . in the Vall y in , y ar after utchings visit At a time wh e n Yellowston e could record but a $ e e F scant fiv hundr d visitors , reeman Tilden wrote Th e Na tio na l Pa rks e in , Yosemite Vall y was already a thriving tourist re sort . There is doubt that any scenic locality ever e njoyed such a quick publicity e and growth . Within a year from the day wh n the

' Marip osa Gaze tte published th e account of th e ’ H e e utchings tourist party s exp dition into the ar a , a camp for trave le rs had been built o n the south fork of Me e e the rc d , and trails for saddl parties were $ being pushed toward the valle y floor . H u blic Entrepreneur A . arris built the first p camp e ground in Yose mite in 1 878 . Camping equipm nt in the horse - drawn ve hicl e era routinely included e lab

e . e orat chairs and camp stools Such style equat s , e e perhaps , with our camping in recreational v hicl s today , but campers today do not dress formally as did those late Victorians and early Edwardians .

- e e . Women sport d full , collared , floor l ngth dresses ’ M - en s attire ran to three piece suits , dress shirts , and neckties , compromising with the outdoors only on the hat and boots . e Just camping at all was consider d roughing it , even in the 1 9205 and Jack Phinney recalled . ’ $ Yo u e didn t hav to backpack . Jack also remem be red what a horrendous chore it was to wash clothes by hand in camp . When Jack ’ s father first camped at Yosemite in les were sub was to avoid L horses . ater, when cars were allowed in the ’ a ranger would check o ut each car s brakes In 1 8 7 4 two to ll roads the su ant t e m in e arne st in , , ppl h Co ulte rv ill e and Yose mite Turn 1 9 1 3 w h e n th e y we re offi pike and the Big Oak Flat c ially all owe d to e nte r the Th ar am dst c o ntrov e rs a o ut oad re ac e d the a e . e R , h V ll y p k i y b fi rst stage c oac h arri v e d in th e i r pro pri e ty in nati o nal Th os m t a t r t ll r d an ar s . e e e e u . no e o oa J l y A h , p k Y i V ll y e xte ns i o n ofth e Wawo na R ail road arri v e d at ne arby El “ Th n ta in 1 9 07 . e s o rt e ro ute was adde d in 1 8 7 5 . o r , P l h li

ta e s re ma ne d the o u ar to arad se e o e c a e d it. S g i p p l p i , p pl ll ’ mode of~ trav e l until auto mo At its te rmi nus ne ar the park s e s av n rst re ac e d the o undar to ur sts trans e rre d bil , h i g fi h b y , i f Valle in 1 9 00 e an to to sta e c oac e s t at e d the y , b g g h h pli ste e p M e rc e d Canyo n up to Th All- r the Valle y . e Ye a Hi g h

’ ose fi rst v i sito rs w as te n by H utc hi ngs in 1 8 5 9 and

re s an art st. , i

’ before it could go in . Jack s family camped with a “ lean - to style tent that went over the car : You could “ open the car door and be right in your tent . The Curry Company would rent you camping gear and

hammocks and mattresses . The year the bear wiped out their baked goods was the first year the Phinneys had an assigned camp

. he a uarte rs ground The assignment was made at q , the c am ro und and when the campers got to pg , they

just picked out any vacant spot . Campgrounds had

boundaries , but no sites were designated . They 1 n F camped for 0 days that summer . O the ourth of July weekend t hings got crowded : Campgrounds M were so packed that tent guy lines would cross . y 2 1 932 father recorded in his journal for July , , that campers were registered in Yosemite ’ s public

Park Service interpretation inated and began to evolve — in 1 9205 . the In fact , the a park in many ways consti o f na Other Mount —soon nature turalist (Bert) Harwell probably influenced

his yen to work in Yosemite . Bert H arwell was an expert at bird - call imita Fo r tions , Jack recalled . me his programs were

pretty spectacular . Those were the early days of park interpretation and there was nothing to com

pare it to . It was exciting . Interpretation began in parks before the National

Park Service was established in 1 9 1 6 . The few inter rete rs p of those early days were called naturalists ,

trail guides , and sometimes simply teachers . John Muir was among the early and effective interpreters

of parks , mainly through his influential writings in M magazines and books . uir also occasionally guided individuals or parties of tourists and scientists through M Yosemite , however informally . uir made a great contribution to the future development of park in te rpre tatio n when he inspired and motivated a young E M k man named nos ills to observe , write , and spea

1 1 6

Wh e n Lady Asto r re f use d to th e art i sti c and mate rial c o m e v e n th o ug h it c ame o ut l e ss spe nd th e n i g ht in Yo se mi te fo rts o fth e i r e nv i ro nme nt e l abo rate th an o ri g i nall y r T o th r t nn . b e c ause th e h ote l s th e re w e re a e i mpo rtant . e c e di pl a e d I nte ri o r de c o rati o n f at r and th w n l n to o r m t v e te e n . o e e a e e a o e c o st oda p i i i , S ph T M h Ah h , T y at e r rst d re c to r o fth e ov e r th e e ars th e o te h as its d n n a is 1 30 e e t lo n M h , fi i y h l i i g h ll f g v w o t nn m r nt rn n at o na ar e r c e as s e d u e a e e a a d se ats 35 0 d ne rs . the N i l P k S i , h i bl i i Off Th w a n ote tio nal no ta e s nc ud n re at o n n u se t . e e e u e se t a s a p Ah h H l bl , i l i g G L g (i ) , p and th e o se m te ar and man e ads ofstate ro m re s c o us re u e fo r ue s s a so ar Y i P k y h f p l f g g t , l C urr C o m an re su te d ro m de nts to n s r nc e s and ium ro v de s an all- w e at e r y p y l f i ki g , p i , p i h ’ T z o m r nc sse s . o re a e su av n . N ll M ath e r s i nj ure d pri de . C p i e li c h h e ot a g ue sts ofth e le te d in 1 9 2 7 t e se w o r d a h ote l in a nat o na ar w a n e av e arr v e d ac c us p , h l i l p k , Ah h e h i c l ass l o dg i ng s c o nti nue to liv e M ath e r fo rc e d a me rg e r ofth e to me d to its l uxuri o us ap ’ r r w r v r n r up to th e pro mi se o fth e p e ss pa k s t o p i ate c o nc e s pro ac h to li v i ng . D u i g Wo l d re e ase at e r ssue d fo r th e sio ne rs and e th e ote the War th e w a ne e o ste d l M h i , , lik h l , II , Ah h h “ f o pe ni ng : Th e Ahw ah ne e is re su lti ng c o nc e ss i o ne r is U S . N av y me n o r a th re e de s i g ne d q u ite f rankly fo r pe o still go i ng stro ng . Budg e te d at ye ar pe ri o d in its te mpo rary ple w h o k now th e de li g hts th e Ahw ah ne e ro l e as a c o nv al e sc e nt h o spi tal of uxur o us v n and to w o m o e ne d at a c o st of $ 1 m o n fo r re a tat o n ofth e s c l i li i g , h p illi h bili i i k and i nj ure d . I mag i ne th e G re at Lo ung e as a do rmito ry fo r 35 0

ne e Hote l mai ntai ns its g rac e many d

e e e insect sp cim n coll ctions , maps , dioramas , and s e e e - e s th e live spe cime ns . Up tairs w r larg cross s ction ’ $ and cuts from Yose mite s big trees . Russe ll maintain e d that th e pione e r inte r pre tiv e work done in Yose mite proj e cte d its infl u e nce and its p e rsonne l into th e wider fi e lds of ‘ ’ nature guiding and muse um programs throughout H e e th e th e National Park S e rvice . judg d work ’ done by Yose mite s staff as instrumental in advancing th e naturalist programs in state parks and e lse whe re whe re o u t- o f- door nature teaching is o f $ fe re d to the public . Today th e National Park System probably ac counts for only 1 0 pe rcent of all park inte rpre tive e e activiti s nationwide , and parks in oth r nations have adopted programs similar to those developed in N e e . e the Unit d Stat s ational parks , a stabl and ’ e e integral component of our nation s id ntity , wer all b u t e e e born in Yos mite , and her our concept of th m P mature d and came of age . As Jack hinney will te ll o u o ne o u r y , this ranks as of chief contributions to ’ So — world culture . much and so far has Yosemite s influence spread .

1 23

Guide and Advise r

A ppro ac hi ng Yose mi te 1 2 8 Ge tti ng A ro und the Park 1 2 9 Ge ne ral I nfo rmati o n 1 30 V s to r C e nte rs use ums and xh b ts 1 31 i i , M , E i i I nte rpre ti v e Ac ti v i ti e s 1 32 Cam ro unds od n s and ood e rv c e s pg , L g i g , F S i H k n Bac k ac k n and lde rne ss Bas c s i i g , p i g , Wi i R o c k C li mb i ng 1 36 Bo at n F o at n o rse ac k d n and i g , l i g , H b R i i g , H ang G li di ng 1 38 Fi sh i ng 1 39 Educ ati o nal S e rv i c e s 1 39 Wi nte r Ac ti v iti e s 1 4 0 A rmc h ai r E xplo rati o ns 1 4 1 M anage me nt Co nc e rns and S afe ty Ti ps 1 4 2 N e arby Attrac ti o ns 1 4 3

1 27 By C ar Astride th e Sierra Ne vada to the Arch R ock Entrance is some ‘

e e to e tw o . crest , Yosemit li s close the Cali what l ss than hours Allow a fo rnia- Ne vada borde r where it angles minimum o f four hours for driving ’ T h e e e F southeastward . rang s st ep east from the San rancisco Bay Are a air D e rn escarpme nt limits auto access from ports . aily bus se rvice be tween th e the east : only R oute 1 20 East at Tioga park and Merced is available (see

Pass at feet in elevation Cali below) . ’ — fo rn ia s highest ve hicle pass pe n e e e R ail R trates th e park . Wint r p rsists in the By AMT AK provides train se r hi h c o u n tr R e e g y, and the Tioga oad may vice from Oakland to M rc d and remain closed by snow as late as mid from Lo s Ange les to Fresno and Mer F N e o f c e d . o r e e June . ormally it is fre snow and d tail d information and res

e Da e rv a io ns - e 8 72- 724 open to travel from M morial y t call toll fre ( 00) 8 5 . 2 e e e to N . 09 w k nd early ovember California Yosemite Tours , ( ) F to 383- 1 563 e rom south north , the South , in Merced , provid s daily bus R F R e Arch ock , and Big Oak lat entrances service from the AMT AK d pot in afford auto access to th e park via th e M e rce d to Yosemite Valley . more gently incline d Sie rran west slope . R oute 4 1 connects Fresno with the By Bu s Scheduled commercial bus South Entrance near the Mariposa lines serve Fresno and M e rce d from 4 F . 1 R e G rove of G iant S e quoias R oute 0 Lo s Ange l e s and San rancisco . gu e El larl e conn cts Merced , Mariposa , and y schedul d bus service to Yosemite e e Portal with the Arch R ock Entrance . Valley is availabl from the G r yhound R oute 1 20 West connects Mante ca te rminal in Merce d ; se rvic e from F with the Big Oak Flat Entrance . You resno is inte rmittent and subject to H H R can re ach e tch etchy eservoir change . You can obtain current bus ’ in th e park s northw e st quadrant from schedule information by calling the R oute 1 20 about o n e mile northwest Yosemite Transportation System h D e YTS 209 372- 1 24 1 th e P of t e Big Oak Fl at Entrance . riv rs ( ) at ( ) or ark

- of large vehicles may become nervous Information Office at (209) 372 0265 . in the last miles of narrow road ap YT S connects from the Vall e y to Le e ro ac hin th e e P p g limited parking at Vining , ast of Tioga ass , daily from ’

L Da . O Sh au gh ne ssy Dam . early summer through abor y Call Fo r recorded 24- hour road and YTS for th e curre nt sche dule (subject we ather information about Yosemite to change ) and make reservations 24

N - P 2 372 4 . e 09 605 . ational ark , call ( ) hours in advance Combin d with transportation se rvice s provided in th e Air R -L e e By eno ake Tahoe airports and park , or with bicycle r ntals , th se bus car re ntals offer the closest connection links mak e feasible a Yose mite vaca ’ o P E t the park s Tioga ass ntranc e . tion without a car . Fresno ’ s airport and car rentals serve those entering the park via the South

E - - - ntrance . Allow tw o and one half hours o f e b e driving time from Fresno . S d uled airlines intermittently serve Merced from Lo s Ange l e s and San F D rancisco . riving time from Me rce d

1 28

seful ddresses and Tele hone Num Yosemite Guide U A p Current activities , bers Ph o n e nu m be rs a re a re a c o de e ev nts , facilities , services , and safety ’ e r e th e 2 09 u n le ss lis te d o th w is . tips are listed in park s free news e h e Y se ite u P t o m G ide . u pap r , ick p a

National Park Service P O . 577 e e , Box copy at any ntrance or rang r station ,

e N P 95389 . e e Yos mite ational ark , CA visitor c nt r , concession accommoda N P e e e o r e ational ark Servic busin ss offic , tion , oth r public facility . 2 F r n ral ark phon e 372 0 00. o ge e p - r i f r Di l information call 372 0264 . Se v ces o sab ed Visitors A ge n e ral information packet de scribing 545 Yosemite ssociation P O . e A , Box , services for disabl d visitors is avail e N P 95389 at e e Yos mite ational ark , CA , able park ntranc and information - 2 4 f nf r o r i o . 379 6 6 . Call this number stations and visitor centers The packet

- mation about books , trail maps , and includes wheelchair emblem placards

art prints available from this nonprofit for sp e cial driving privil e ge s . me mbership organization that supports ’ h e e e e e I n f n m r n ll t case o a e e e c ca 9 1 1 . park s int rpr tiv , ducational , and g y

scie ntific programs . YA also sponsors th e Yosemite Field S e minars se rie s and a variety of other special activities that ’ augme nt th e National Park Servic e s r interpretive program . Catalogs and b o

chure s are available o n requ e st .

Yose mite Park and urr o m an C y C p y , 54 1 0 E H e e e F e ast om Av nu , r sno , CA 72 -4 93 7 252 848 . Call this number to obtain rese rvations fo r accommoda tions and information about other c o n — c e ssio n e r se rvices including Badge r P — ass winte r sports offere d in th e park .

Make camping reservations year- round Ti k r n through any c et o outlet . Fo r r 72- camping info mation call 3 0302 . See

Camping on page 1 33. Fo r recorded information on weathe r -4 Fo r and road conditions call 372 605 . — - - F lost and found items call 372 4720. o r me dical - services appointme nts or e mer ge n c ie s call 372- 4637 Fo r dental - ser

e - vic s appointments call 372 4200. TTY phones enable deaf persons with the ir o w n TTY s to ge t informa F r tion and room re servations . o park

- information (TTY only) call 372 4726 .

F - o r room reservations call 25 5 8345 .

1 30 u se o f e th e e H e th e Make optimum your tim in childr n , based at appy Isl s , is e park by stopping at a visitor ce nte r as oldest o f its type in th e Nation . Ch ck e e Yo se mite Gu ide soon as yo u can . Visitor c nt rs offer your for programs

o n e e e . information w ath r , road and trail and schedul s th e o f conditions , and availability camp Yosemite Museum e e site s . Audiovisual programs and exhib What was lif lik its de scribe fe ature s and thingsyo u fo r th e Miwok peopl e w h o live d in can se e and do in the time yo u have Yose mite Valle y be fore th e gold rush

- $ R e th e e no n e to e available . ang rs at information dr w Indian p ople this r gion desks can answe r your qu e stions and Many answers are found in th e Indian advise yo u o n activiti e s and fe ature s o f Cultural Exhibit adjace nt to the Valle y H R th e Fl at e e . e e are inte re st . angers at Big Oak Visitor C nt r r displayed e e o f Information Station and Wawona bask ts , tools , and oth r artifacts D h e e R ange r Station also can h e lp you plan Miwok culture . uring t summ r e e e e your time . Books and maps sold at Indian Cultural Int rpr t rs d mon e e e are e e e e th s outl ts us ful planning tools strat bask try , food pr paration , and and can add to your e njoyment afte r oth e r arts and crafts in a mode l Indian e are e e e e your trip , too . Thes publications Villag that has be n recreat d b hind sold by th e nonprofit Yose mite Associ the muse um and visitor ce nte r . Se e e e Th e Aw ah ne e c h e e e 1 02 to 1 03 ation as a b n fit both to visitors and , pag s , - Fin l e 1 04 1 07 . e rts Ga to th e National Park S e rvice . and also pag s A Th e F e G e e lery . in Arts all ry adjac nt Vall ey Visitor Center Locate d in to th e Indian Cultu ral Exhibit fe ature s e e e th e e e s o f Yos mit Villag , Vall y Visitor changing th matic di plays both e e e e e Cent r pr s nts xhibits and informa historic and cont mporary paintings ,

f . e e o u . e o tion r sourc s y should not miss A photographs , and oth r works art video program de scribe s fo r visitors Th e pie ces exhibite d capture th e dra w h o e o ne th e th e e s e e hav just day in park matic landscap , subtl intricaci s , R e e to se e e e . e e b st way Yos mit li f mod and countl ss moods of Yosemite , each ’ ’ e l s provide bird s - e ye vi ews o f th e Val re flecting the artist s p e rsonal re

l h e s o n se to th e n . ey and t e e ntire park . A slid program p mome t shown re gularly throughou t each day e s h M ri o a Grove Museum e off r an orie ntation to t e park . Still a p s Op n from e e s e e - to - e e oth r xhibit illustrat and xplain about mid May mid Octob r , wh n e e e are e e g ological formations and proc ss s , trams op rating in the grov , this de scribe h o w Yose mite came to b e a rustic lo g structure houses exhibits that e e o f th e national park , and int rpret plant and interpr t the natural history giant

e e e . e . wildlif r lationships , including b ars s quoias Ask about sche duled programs in th e Pi n r Y mi r n r Fu r visitor cente r auditoriums . o ee ose te H isto y Ce te nish e d o f historic buildings , most them H appy Isles Nature C enter R e ache d re locate d from th e ir original se ttings e e e at th e e nd o f e e - by fr shuttl bus upper lsewhere in the park , and hors drawn th e e H e N e e e are th e P e e Vall y , appy Isl s atur C nt r , wagons displayed at ion r

e th e s e e e e H e e . op n during umm r and arly fall , Yos mit istory C nt r at Wawona e e e F e - e e off rs films , xhibits , and natur pro rom arly May to mid Octob r , stag

. Th e R e P s th e grams Junior ang r rogram for . rides carry pa sengers across

1 31 ’ e e o n e e G l a wood e n cov red bridg , still its Childr n s walks , suns t talks at e e P o f e original sit , sparking to life this vig ci r oint , night prowls Si rran ’

e e e e e e . e v e n tt of Yos mit s pion r past In m adows , and a ariety of oth r ranger te rpre te rs in p e riod costume s offer conducte d activiti e s offe r me morabl e

th e e e e e . e e living history during summer , por park xp ri nc s Sch dules app ar in Y e traying pe ople and activitie s that helpe d the o s mite Gu ide . Varying in l e ngth ’ e e e e shap Yos mite s history and its des and duration , v nts are listed by loca e e tiny as a national park . Conducted tion , typ of subj ct or activity , and tours of th e C e nter are sch e dule d in time . Activities at or n e ar visitor c e n N h e are e o n . t spring and fall earby , Wawona ters also post d bulletin boards

H e e th e . otel , still operating , provid s a b au at centers and in campgrounds P e e tiful glimpse o f an earli e r tourist e ra . rograms off r d lightful insights into ’ ’ H H e e e e e istoric ill s Studio , on the hotel Yos mit s wond rs , past and pr s nt , e e e e grounds , is op n on a limit d schedule and include bird walks , cr k wadings , e e e in summer, displaying reproductions riv r floats , bear talks , g ology hik s , ’ o f k e e art works from the par s museum photography talks , traditional b v r collections . age and talk with an Indian , campfire e programs , films , and a myriad of oth r Tuol umne Meadows Visitor Center functions that will be tter acquaint you h R ’ Across t e Tioga oad from its name with th e park s re source s and valu e s . Yosemite heater e e sake , the Tuolumne Meadows Visitor T (admission f s) o f e e e Center , usually open from Memorial presents programs liv stag th ater D a e th e e e y week nd through September , pro and films , and Yos mit Associa vides full information se rvice s and pub tion offers fre e instruction in various ’ i E e M l c atio ns . xhibits off r John uir s cre ative arts at the Art Activity C e nte r o u perspective on the meaning and valu e s in Yose mite Valle y . In winter y can e e e of Yos mit , with quotations from the snowshoe among giant s quoias or ski

- e arly naturalist and conservation writer . cross country with a park range r (se e E e e e e e . xhibits f atur g ology , wildflow rs , Winter at Yosemit ) e e Th e e e P alpin and subalpine cology , bears , Yos mit ark and Curry Com ’ th e e th e e G e wildlife , ar a s human history , and pany and Ans l Adams all ry ,

e e e . e e e e e wild rn ss mann rs park conc ssion rs , also off r v ning

programs and photography walks , P L D h e arsons od e L . t g ocated near Soda seminars , and workshops uring E Springs at Tuolumne Meadows , this summer an astman Kodak Company e m historic structur , built by the Sierra photo specialist leads ca era walks and 5 1 9 1 e e s a o n r . Club in , is now op rat d during present slide progr ms photog aphy summer as an information and inte r Check the Yose mite Gu ide o r request r i e t v e . E n p facility xhibits focus o the brochures fo r schedule information . human history o f the Tuolumne Me a P - dows area . arsons Lo dge is a o ne mile walk from th e Le mbert Dome parking area .

’ Samplings of Yosemite s hiking o p vides John Muir Trail information and : E tions fill books short walks to scenic a map (see Armchair xplorations) . Fo r waterfalls or among giant trees , ardu trip planning information write to o u s Pe hikes to breathtaking vistas , multi Wilderness rmits at the park address .

day rambles among mountain heights . To pick a walk tailored to your inter H igh Sierra Camps L oop A moder e t - ests and physical condition , g the ate mile route , this loop links five advice of a ranger at a visitor center or High Sierra Camps and Tuolumne “H information station . iking from Yo Meadows Lodge . In most years these $ semite Valley, a free brochure available camps are in operation by early July L Da at the Valley Visitor Center , describes and stay Open through abor y week

nine hikes and the distance , hiking end . With their food service and tent

time , and difficulty of each . Trails in cabin accommodations you can trek ’ Yosemite s highc o u ntry may still be the High Sierra with a day pack or closed by snow when all traces o fwinter travel o n horseback unencumbered

have long since left the Valley . Check with gear . So popular is this route , o n N P trail conditions at visitor centers or however , that the ational ark Ser

at wilderness permit outlets . All vice has set a quota on the number of — e hikers not just backcountry overnight hikers using it . Backcountry r serva campers—should read and heed the tions must be made well in advance R H information about bears and drinking here . eservations for the igh Sierra P water o n page 1 35 . lease remember : Camps are required and are best made All ov ernight backcountry use requires in early January ofthe year you plan to — a wilderness permit see Wildern ess use them . Make reservations with the P m . P er its , next page Yosemite ark and Curry Company Lo F (see Campgrounds , dgings , and ood

John Muir Trail Stretching between Services) . Yosemite on the north and Whitney P o n M H ikin Sense and Safet No n- ortal the south , the John uir g y skid Trail extends 2 1 1 miles through the hiking shoes o r boots will serve yo u

M . heart of the Sierra . ost of the trail best Tennis shoes and heavy socks e lies above f et in elevation , some may suffice on some trails , but sturdier P F r 37 . o f it above feet . o miles the footgear is recommended lease stay

trail crosses the park , with road con on trails . Taking shortcuts is danger D tact in Yosemite Valley and at Tuolumne ous and causes damaging erosion . ogs o n Meadows . Best trail travel times are and other pets are prohibited all

between July 1 5 and September 1 5 . trails except those paved paths on the P Pack stock sometimes cannot negoti floor of Yosemite Valley . ets must be

- Au o n . e ate snow clad high passes even in a leash at all times Bicycl s , motor ro hib gust . Wilderness permits are required cycles , and motor vehicles are p m kin whil travelin fo r overnight stays in the park and on ite d on trails . S o g e g national forests (see Wilderness Pe r on trails is prohibited; yo u may smoke P D n e mits) . ossession and use of firearms while stopped . o o t drink untreat d

are prohibited in national parks and water o r contaminate lakes and streams .

discouraged in th e national forests ex Dispose o fhuman waste properly . ’ H tarr P . cept during hunting season . S s lease carry o ut all trash orses and

- - Gu ide to the High Sie rra R e gio n pro mules have the right o f way o n all trails .

1 34 e o u e 10 As stock approach s y , step to the and to avoid disappointm nts with i e o f e ist c s . e e uphill sid the trail , if possibl , and g Your r s rvation request must : remain qui e t while the animals pass . include Starting and ending date s ;

2 . . D m . Do not try to touch the Trailhead(s) ; 3 estination ; and 4 . N e umber of p ople and stock animals .

Wilderness Permits All overnight Keep your party size small . Small e r backcountry use re quire s a wild e rn e ss groups are easier to accommodate o n H e Max permit unless yo u are staying at a igh already h avily booked trailheads .

. e e 25 Sierra Camp The permit syst m h lps imum group size is , or eight for any f - - assure each party relative solitude o r cross country or off trail hiking . Stock a wi—lderness experience and aids search is limited to 25 head and is permitted e e . e and rescu op rations Information only on established trails . Writ or call from the permit system also helps the the Yosemite Association for its mail N P M ational ark Service protect Yo order literature list . aps and books ’ semite s popular wilderness and miti will enhance both your pre - trip plan gate impacts o n its fragile resources by ning and your ultimate appreciation o f regulating use . Yosemite . In the park you can get wilderness e ater arnin Giardia lamblia p rmits at the Valley Visitor Center , W W g , a M P e Tuolumne eadows ermit Kiosk (sea protozoan , may contaminat any sur R no h o w sonal) , Wawona anger Station , and face water , matter clean it

F . D the Big Oak lat Information Station looks . rink onlywater from approved Advance reservations for wilderness public supplies o r water that has been —b f permits are accepted y mail only boiled o r o ne minute . Iodine and chlo F 1 Ma 31 between ebruary and y each rine tablets are not as effective as heat , year . Write to Wilderness Permits at but you can rely o n iodine tablets if

. 50 o f n F the park address Up to percent boiling is o t possible . eces o fh u each trailhead ’ s daily capacity may be mans and some domestic and wild r T reserved ; the rest is filled on a first animals carry Gia dia . o help prevent - Y . o u o f come , first served basis may pick transmission this disease , bury your up your wilderness permit up to 24 waste at least four t o six inches deep hours before your trailhead departure . and at least 1 00 feet from any water o r Fo r o u t M hikes of Tuolumne ead watercourse . o w s o r to Little Yosemite Valley o r

H D o u Bear Vi arnin Y u i alf ome , y are encouraged to g o r w lde rn e ss pe r make a reservation o r to pick up your mit pac k e t in c l ude s in stru c tio n s o n

ermi D v p t a day ahead. aily trailhead h anging yo u r fo o d to pre e n t b e ars fre f quotas in these popular areas are ro m ge tting it . Mak e su re e v e ryo n e in quently filled . Include alternate trail yo u r party re ads th is info rm atio n b e o r f r heads dates when applying o fo re yo u r trip . So m e 250 to 350 b e ars popular trailheads , particularly with F o r riday Saturday departures . fe de ral l aw re q u iring pro pe r fo o d sto r

Tri Plannin G 8500. T h e Nat o n al Park Se rv ic e c o m p g eneral information i , ’ about backpacking in Yosemite is sup mitte d to u nlin king Yo se mite s b e ars R plied with your wilderness permit . ead fro m h u m an fo o d so u rc e s y i o ro u sl , g y this material carefully fo r your safety

1 35 ’ H ypothe rmia D angers Se e Winter Much o f Yose mite s spectacular dome Activiti e s fo r important information and big-wall sce n e ry is compose d o f

- - H e . on this all se ason killer . ypoth rmia high quality granite With its ge ne rally can occur even wh e n air te mpe rature s good summer and fall w e ather and ° f — are 50 F. e e o as high as as access , the park particularly — Yosemite Valley has be come an in h f from Parked ars te rnatio n al e fo r T e t C Thefts from m cca rock climbing . cars parked ove rnight at trailhe ads Fe w climbe rs can long resist its chal f - e e . Lo e o e som tim s occur ck your car thor leng near v rtical walls . Many ad ’ oughly and don t leave valuables visi v an c e d climbing te chniques and e ve n ’

. e o e e e e Th e ble It s b st t lock valuabl s in a car tools hav be n d veloped h e re . ’ trunk . park s most popular climbing areas are u o l u mne Yosemite Valley , T Meadows , r f H o se Use Recreational use o horses and sites along the Tioga R oad . Write e to th e fo r e e R mul s , burros , and llamas is appropri park fr ock Climbing in $

in . N P ate Yosemite Wilderness regula Yosemite ational ark information . e o n lo d tions and other provisions listed above It provid s tips transportation , g P e o h e o e t e e e e . t t apply leas c ntact park g a ings ; and anticipat d xp ns s , as well “ copy o f Information fo r Stock Users as practical facts . The climbing season $ N P f r in Yosemite ational ark be o e your usually extends from April into Octobe r . visit . It offers travel and safety tips and o n re Yosemite all e information head limits , travel V y The Valley offers

u n . El strictions , trail closures , grazing , many grade I through VI climbs loading and ove rnight boarding o f Capitan alone boasts more than 40

e e . e e stock , and bear and other safety warn grad VI rout s Short r rout s abound

ings . Stock and ride rs with limite d in the to Yosemite Decimal

mountain e xperience may have trou System category . There are some ’ h e ble since much o fYose mite s back and route s . Climbs in t to r n h count y is above fe et in elevation . range are o t common because t e Arrange guided trail rides and burro Valle y granite s are pre dominantly H n picnics with Yosemite Park and Curry smooth . olds o these faces are mini 72- 4 3 1 2 8 . o r e . b e Company liveries , telephone mal nonexist nt Weather can a H o t double threat in summer . days can e e bring dehydration , h at xhaustion , and

heat stroke . Temperatures can drop

below freezing in June , and rains can

b e cold in any month . The danger is

hypothermia , the rapid and potentially

fatal lowering o f body temperature .

Tuol umne Meadows Tuolumne has grade I to IV routes that vary from M to in difficulty . ost climbs are

o n glacially polished granite domes . Chocks are used almost exclusively fo r

prote ction he re . Tuolumne is located o n R oute 1 20 East (see map) and can

1 36

in R e T Boating and Float g afts may b tions are advised fo r all rides . w o re nted fo r le isure ly floats o n the M e rce d hour Valley rides go to Mirror Lake o r

R F . D e iver in the Valley while conditions Yosemite alls uring summ r , half o u h e are suitable . Trams transport y and day rides lead from t Valley to the to o fN F - e your raft from the takeout point back p evada all , and an all day rid - P to th e raft rental are a at Curry Village . goes to G lacier oint fo r stunning vis Th e e no t H D N concessioner do s allow solo tas Of alf ome , Vernal and evada

. e e to rentals W tproof your valuables and falls , and Si rran peaks sprawling se cure coolers and other items to the the horizon .

. Fo r to 100 raft in case Of capsizing children up pounds , walk Yosemite alle - V y Kayaks , canoes , and lead ponies and donkeys may be n 7 1 2 and rafts may be used o the Merced rented by th e hour . Children to

- R h e e . iver in t Vall y without a permit may enjoy the half day burro picnic . ’ From Clark s Bridge at the Pines G roup to El H an Glidin H Gl a campgrounds Capitan Bridge , g g ang gliding from P swimming aids such as life preservers , cier oint is permitted during summer inner tubes , and air mattresses may be under stringent rules obtainable by

- to . e use d . A approved personal writing the park Only Unit d States flotation device is required fo r each Hang G liding Association members $ oater under conditions o fheavy runoff wh o hold the Advanced R ating are

- . to (usually from spring until mid summer) allowed launch here , and then only The Merced closed to all swimmers is , with an advance reservation and ranger

rafters and boaters when water condi . To , approval Observe these colorful i t ons are too hazardous for safe use . to gliders descending the Valley floor ,

m . o r o u o u t a . Check with a ranger at a visitor y must be before , the

- - f r e . f f center o up to dat information deadline o r the last takeoff o the day . Boating on Lakes Boats and other Only 1 2 flights per day are allowed craft without motors maybe used o n dur ing the designated season . : Te n a a M the following lakes y , erced , Ma y, Benson , Tilden , Twin , Kibbie , f r and Many Islands . Special permits o boating o n any other park lakes must be obtained from the Superintendent . Permits are seldom granted except fo r necessary park Operations . Boating is no t permitted o n Hetch Hetchy R e ser n voir . All craft o the lakes listed above must carry a - approved per sonal flotation device fo r each person aboard .

H orseback R iding R iding stables at

Wawona , White Wolf , Tuolumne Mea dows , and Yosemite Valley rent mounts fo r guided trail rides . The Valley stables E to - operate from aster mid October , R the others in summer only . eserva

1 38 Fiv e trout sp e cie s inhabit park wate rs : Yosemite Institute Yose mite be come s R e e e e r th e ainbow , ast rn brook , brown , gold n , a gr at outdoor class oom with are e e e o r se and cutthroat . Only rainbows na Yos mit Institut field minars

e e e r no w e e e th e e e . tiv h r , and cutth oat xist in Off r d by Yos mit Association

’ ‘ C alifo r e e e s - o u o n e e . G e only lak old n trout , Yos mit Institut hands outdoor ’ e e few e e e nia s stat fish , liv in a lak s ducation programs bring school class s

- to th e fo r e e . Led above fee t in e le vation . Although park we k long s ssions O f e e e limite d stocking trout continu s in by authoritativ instructors , s ssions th e park in seve ral de signate d lake s typically include a se ri e s o f day hike s

e are no e e . Fo r and str ams , most waters long r and vening programs information e e to e e to e e e e e plante d and fishing is r gulat d h lp writ Yos mit Institut , Yos mit ’

e th e e e P O . Bo x 487 e e me t park s ov rall manag ment Campus , Yos mit , CA

- e e o f 95389 o r n 372 444 1 . obj ctiv maintaining natural sys , telepho e tems to th e fullest exte nt possible . Certain Yosemite waters may b e posted Yosemite Association Field Seminars — e with closure s check with a range r . Yos mite Association field seminars are offered from late winter through e w Fishing Licenses Pe rsons 1 6 ye ars o f October . Most class s run from t o to e age and Old r need a valid California seven days , exploring such subj ects as ’ Y e e e me a e e . o u fishing lic ns may purchase a botany , Yos mit s for sts and e e e o r e e license in Yos mit Vall y at Wawo dows , birds , Si rran g ology , Indian o r El P - e e e e na ortal year round , and at material cultur , nvironm ntal duca e e o r e e e Tuolumn M adows Whit Wolf tion , natur photography , and wat r

e e e . e e whe n ope n . Op n s ason runs y ar color painting A numb r Of summ r

no e fo r . e are e round , with minimum siz trout s minars backpacking trips ; wint r ’ Cree l limits fo r California s Sie rra Dis and some early spring programs e ntail

- F . tric t apply . rom the last Saturday in cross country skiing Most course s offe r

N 1 5 th e . April through ovember , limit a college credit option Course cata 1 0 o u e no e is trout , but y can ke p more logs are available at visitor c nters ; by

1 0 o n e . e to e than pounds and fish The r st writing the Yosemit Association ,

P. . B x 23 El P 1 r e . O o 0 953 8 o Of the year the limit is fiv trout , ortal , CA ;

- e 379 232 1 . California fishing laws apply , with som by calling e e f r xc ptions o special park regulations . ’ R esearch Library Yosemite s R e R egulations Yo u may fish only by search Library in Yose mite Valle y hook and line . A ro d o r line must b e houses o ne o f the National Park Ser ’ handhe ld at all times . Chumming is vice s most e xtensive and voluminous

e so e - ill gal ; is poss ssion Of live o r d e ad collections o f park based literature . It e no n to minnows , chubs , oth r bait fish , is open the public ; ask at the Valley e ro e o r to preserv d fish eggs , and fish , Visitor Center about days and hours Of u e f s o . DO n any these as bait o t fish operation . D f from road bridge s . igging o r bait is e expr ssly forbidde n . G athering grubs e o u t o f is permitt d , but only view Of roads and trails . Comple te regulations are available at visitor ce nters o r by to writing the park .

1 39 Boating and Floating Rafts may be tions are advised fo r all rides . Tw o rented fo r leisure ly floats o n the Merced hour Valley rides go to Mirror Lake o r D R F . e iver in the Valley while conditions Yosemite alls uring summ r , half o u e are suitable . Trams transport y and day rides l ad from the Valley to the to o fN F - your raft from the takeout point back p evada all , and an all day ride

- to the raft rental area at Curry Village . goes to G lacier Point fo r stunning vis Th e e no t o fH D e Ne conc ssioner does allow solo tas alf om , Vernal and vada

. to rentals Wetproof your valuables and falls , and Sierran peaks sprawling secure coolers and other items to the th e horizon .

o f . Fo r e to 1 00 raft in case capsizing childr n up pounds , walk Yosemite alle - e V y Kayaks , canoes , and lead poni s and donkeys may be 7 and rafts may be use d o n the Merced rented by the hour . Children to 1 2

- River in the Valley without a permit . may enjoy the half day burro picnic . From Clark ’ s Bridge at the Pines Group to El H an Glidin H G la campgrounds Capitan Bridge , g g ang gliding from P swimming aids such as life preservers , cier oint is permitted during summer inner tubes , and air mattresses may be under stringent rules obtainable by

- h e . used . A approved personal writing to t park Only United States flotation device is required fo r each Hang G liding Association members floater under conditions o fheavy runoff w h o hold the Advanced R ating are

- . to (usually from spring until mid summer) allowed launch here , and then only Th M rc i clo e to ll wimmer e e ed s s d a s s, with an advance reservation and ranger r r h n r n i T r fte n oate w e wate co . o r a s, a d b s d approval Observe these colo ful

tions are too hazardous for safe use . to gliders descending the Valley floor ,

m . o r o u o u t a . Check with a ranger at a visitor y must be before , the

- - f r . center fo r u p to date information . deadline o the last takeoff Of the day Boating on Lakes Boats and other Only 1 2 flights per day are allowed craft without motors maybe used o n dur ing the designated season . : o M the following lakes T naya , erced , Ma y, Benson , Tilden , Twin , Kibbie , and Many Islands . Special permits fo r boating o n any other park lakes must be obtained from the Superintendent . Permits are seldom granted except fo r necessary park operations . Boating is no t permitted o n Hetch Hetchy R eser voir . All craft o n the lakes listed above must carry a - approved per sonal flotation device fo r each person aboard .

H orseback R iding Riding stables at Me a Wawona , White Wolf , Tuolumne dows , and Yosemite Valley rent mounts f o r guided trail rides . The Valley stables E to - operate from aster mid October , R the others in summer only . eserva

1 38

Winte r transforms Yose mite into a snowy wonde rland Of both scenic inspir I ation and winte r sports . c e and snow conditions that close many hiking trails e u e op n up ski to ring , snowsho ing , and downhill skiing opportunities amidst h e t t e . t e te re br a h aking b auty In win r , p c ipitatio n above to fe et in el e vation usually falls as snow . Maxi 7 000 to mum snow depth occurs at , 1 e f feet . In 983 inch s o e Fl at e snow accumulat d at Snow , el va 90 e e o f tion fe e t . Up to p rc nt the ’ Sie rra s annual pre cipitation occurs b e e e N e e tw n ov mb r and April , and most of this falls from January through

March . Yosemite winter activities center Fl e P around Crane at , Badg r ass Ski G Area , the Mariposa rove , and Yosem Y e t u e ite Vall e y . See the o s mi e G id for schedul e s o f ranger- led winte r ac tiv i R ti e s and special programs . oads to these areas are kept Open but may be close d te mporarily during o r imme di

ate ly afte r heavy storms . Snow trails are e mark d , and ski and topographic maps are available at visitor centers are e and range r stations . Trails mark d fo r e ad beginner , int rmediate , and v an c e d e e o f l v ls crosscountry skiing , also known as ski touring and Nordic e e skiing . Trail l ngths vary from mil 1 to loops of some 6 miles . C rane Flat Crane Flat Offers cross country skiing and ranger- l e d snow shoe walks and ski tours o n a limite d

. L e n th e schedule Badger Pass . ocat d o G P R P lacier oint oad , Badger ass Ski Are a Offers both downhill facilities and

- cross country trails , snowcat tours , e e quipm nt rentals , and downhill and N R e e ordic ski schools . angers l ad r gu larly sche dul e d ski tours and snowshoe M . R walks ariposa Grove . angers in the Mariposa G rove lead walks among

truly giant sequoia trees . At nearby

1 40 must e e at the e P ss R e Th e e te s t n e s s r gist r Badg r a ang r Yos mi A socia io Off r book , ’ t A - e e e e r t e s s art Sta ion ( fram ) b for any ov nigh childr n book , maps , and prints are v e at th e e o n e e s e fo r e th e trip . Pe rmits a ailabl Badg r Yos mit ubj cts sal in

P ss R e e t r . Fo r e e st a ang r Station , Vall y Visi or pa k and by mail a fr li Of e e n R e t t t e se te s te to se e C nt r , Wawo a ang r S a ion , and h i m wri Yo mit Associa

P . x 4 F t t . t O Bo 5 5 e te N Big Oak lat Informa ion S ation ion , , Yos mi ational

- e Yose m ite Gu ide fo r r e P 95389 o r 379 2646 . Ch ck your cu r nt ark , CA , call e r F hours o f ope ration. Yo u must b p e ollowing is a se l e ct list Of books : e e e fo r e e e e par d and quipp d m rg nci s , z Y m ite a n th e R n e e e e e e . e . o se d a e s v r w ath r , and avalanch ha ards Adams , Ans l g

Li t . 7 of gh 1 9 9 . Winter D riving Tips Chains are O f r D Sie rra te e F. isc o ve rin te n re quired o n park roads that re main A no , S ph n g 7 Tre e . 1 s 9 3. ope n in winte r . Be e spe cially al e rt fo r e e e r o n snowplows , stall d v hicl s , ocks E e e . e e L . B dy , dward C and St ph n s e e e e road urfac s , and other un xp ct d D r . c G ranholm is o ve ing Sie rra Birds .

t t . e e e si ua ions Wh n roads are st p and 1 985 . e e slipp ry , g ar down and pump your

D n l k r r . brake s . o ot oc you b akes If Fo x e e . Jo h n Mu ir a n d H is , St ph n e t e your car go s in o a skid , tak your Le gacy : Th e A m e r ic a n C o nse r va tio n th e e e foot off acc l rator , pump your 1 1 . Mo ve m e n t . 98 e e e brak s lightly , and turn your st ring

e e G te R e . D isc o ve rin Sie rra wh l in the dire ction Of th e skid . ra r , uss ll K g Ma m m l 7 a . Most serious accid e nts are cause d by s 1 9 8 . e e v e th e sp d , alcohol , and crossing o r H H T. e al . Th e e u e . t S o ias o e arv y , q f c nte r line . Y se mite Na ti na l P r 7 o o a k . 1 9 8 .

H othermia D an er H o th e rmia is yp g yp H T e e N. h Ge o l o ic Sto r o ub r , King g y f ’ th e l o w e rin o f th e b o d s c o re t e m g y Y se t N mi e a ti n a l P r . 7 o o a k 1 98 . pe rat u re as a re su lt o f th e b o dy l o si ng h e at faste r h a it i t n s ro du e d . Po t e n R e D W . e s t o Ede n . A p c ob rtson , avid f tiall fatal h o th e rm a c an str k e ev e n H y , yp i i is to ry of th e A r t a n d Lite ra tu re of in su mm e w h e n w e tn e ss an d w nd r i Yo se m ite . 1 984 . c o m o u n d effe c ts o f l p c o o l air . t t ak e s R Y N e D v . ose m ite a tio na l m o r e h u m an liv e s y e arly th an do e s an y ob rtson , a id ’ Pa rk : Na tu re s Mas te r ie c e in o th e r s n e o u tdo o h Sto ne . i gl r azard . Sympto m s p

1 5 . de v e o fast an d as th e ro re ss o u 98 l p , y p g , y b e c o m e l e ss a abl e o f e al z in th e r c p r i g i ’ R e A Cl e r e e . imb s G u ide to op r , St v si n f c a H g i i n c e . an ds an d fe e t b e c o m e Yo se m ite Va lle F . e 1 4 y irst publish d 96 . n u mb as bl o o d is div e rte d to v ital o rgan s . Th i s re su l ts in u n co n tro ll abl e A Sie rra u e e . Cl b Na t Whitney , St ph n sh iv e r n fu mbl n an d r w ’ d o sin e . i g , i g , ss u ra list Gu ide t th e e rr N s o Si a e va da . W th o u t ro e r tre atm e n t th e n e x i p p t 1 7 9 9 . sta e s are stu o r c o l a e s an d de a h . g p , l p , t Sta dr se ek sh e lte r fro m w in d a y y , , v o id e xh au stio n e at l o ts o f h h - e n e r , ig gy fo o ds and w e ar a w o o l c a . , p

1 4 1 i n add t o n to th e u de lin e s an d afe o r e e i i g i s ty your prop rty is damaged by a b ar , tips pro v ide d w i th d e sc riptio n s o f sp e please re port the incid e nt to the ne ar fi ar a v itie s in h s G u de an d e s c i c p k c ti t i i t ranger station . Adv se r se c tio n o f u r h an db o o k i yo , pl e ase h e e d t h e t o llo w mg gu i de l i n e s Pets Pe ts must be l e ashed and under

an d re u atio n s . g l physical restraint at all time s . The y are no t e p rmitted on trails , in buildings , or D rivin D e e th e P g rive safely and def nsiv ly in backcountry . e t re gulations are Do e $Th within poste d spe e d limits . not stop nforced e Yose mite Park and e to e e e e in traffic lan s look at sc n ry , but Curry Company op rat s a boarding

b e e fo r e w ho do . al rt driv rs Chains kennel in Yosemite Valley . may b e required on some park roads in P winte r (se e Winter Activities) . ark H ypothermia D ange r Whe n body only in e stablishe d turnouts and park te mpe rature lowe rs faste r than the

e . e e e e ing ar as body can cr at h at , hypoth rmia

sets in and can b e fatal . This killer can R ivers Streams and aterfalls R e e e , , W iv rs , strik even in summ r ; fatal hypo e e b e tre ac h e e e str ams , and wat rfalls can th rmia may dev lop in air t mpera ° e ro u s at any time but especially wh e n tures O f 50 Fwh e n it is wet and — water levels are high . Approach cau windy o r you are exhausted . See Win tio u sly and b e al e rt fo r und e rmin e d ter Activ ities fo r important information

F e h n v r lif . banks and slippery rocks . ast curr nts t at ca sa e you e and cold wate r mak e a deadly combi N r im v rf ll . eve sw abo e wate a s o r Fire Mana ement o u nation g If y see smoke , in swift water . it may be from a prescribed fire set by National Park Service rangers under Wildlife All native animals are part proper conditions to help keep forests Of th e natural syste ms protected in the and meadows ecologically healthy and park . Keep a respectful distance from to restore natural conditions . It might ’ wildlife so yo u don t disturb their natu also be from a prescribed natural fire F — ral routines . eeding wild animals is probably ignited by lightning that is — F e to . dange rous and it is illegal . oodstuffs being allow d burn An early mistake must b e properly stored in vehicles or in national parks management was to F now suspended from tre e s so that b e ars suppress all fires . ire has been cannot get them . Store food in a ve hicle proven a vital process in keeping many

. e . trunk In vehicles without trunks , cov r natural ecosystems healthy Occasional e l l l food completely with a blank t , roll up wi d ands fires prevent fuel bui dups

h to as . t e . the windows , and lock doors Use that can lead cat trophic forest fires - e H o u bear proof food lock rs where pro owever, it remains imperative that y

- do i . v de d Use bear proof garbage cans . nothing careless that could cause ’ u o u K e ep a clean camp ; don t l e ave refuse fires . If yo see a fire y think may be

e e to . or unatt nd d food in camp anytime . a wildfire , please report it a ranger e e e Should you ncounter a bear , k p e your distance . If it approach s you , make loud noises and act aggre ssive to R B intimidate it . ead and heed ear arnin on a 1 W g p ge 35 . If you are injured

1 42 i n ad tio n to th e u de n e s an d safe t o r e di g i li y your property is damaged by a b ar , tips pro v id e d w ith de sc riptio n s o f spe please re port th e incide nt to th e ne ar i i a rk a v t e s in th s G u de an d e c l o p cti i i i i st ranger station . v ise r se tio n o f o u r h an db o o k Ad c y , pl e ase h e e d th e fo ll o w i ng gu ide li n e s Pets Pets must b e leashed and under

an d re u at o n s . e g l i physical r straint at all tim e s . Th e y are no t e o n p rmitted trails , in buildings , or D rivin D v e e e e th e Pe g ri e saf ly and d f nsiv ly in backcountry . t regulations are DO T within poste d sp e e d limits . not stop enforc e d $ h e Yosemite Park and e to e e e in traffic lan s look at sc n ry , but Curry Company op rates a boarding

b e e w h o do . e e alert for driv rs Chains kenn l in Yos mite Valley . may be required on some park roads in P winter (se e Winter Activiti e s) . ark H ypothermia D anger Whe n body only in e stablish e d turnouts and park temperature low e rs faster than th e

. e t e ing areas body can cr ate heat , hypo h rmia

se ts in and can be fatal . This killer can Rivers Streams and aterfall s R e e e e , , W iv rs , strik v n in summer ; fatal hypo e e b e tre ac h e e e e str ams , and wat rfalls can thermia may d v lop in air t mp ra ° e ro u s at any time b u t especially whe n ture s o f SO Fwhen it is w e t and — e e are . r water l v ls high Approach cau windy o you are e xhausted . See Win tio u sly and b e ale rt fo r und e rmin e d ter Activities for important info rmation F e h e . n v banks and slipp ry rocks ast curr nts t at ca sa e your life . and cold wate r mak e a de adly combi N r im r . eve sw above wate fall s or Fire Mana ement o u nation g If y see smoke , in swift water . it may be from a prescribed fire set by National Park Service rangers under Wildlife All native animals are part proper conditions to help keep forests o f the natural syste ms protecte d in th e and meadows ecologically healthy and park . K e ep a re spe ctful distance from to restore natural conditions . It might ’ wildlife so you don t disturb the ir natu also be from a prescribed natural fire F — ral routines . eeding wild animals is probably ignited by lightning that is — i F e to . dangerous and it is ill e gal . oodstuffs being allow d burn An early m stake must be properly stored in ve hicl e s o r in national parks management was to F now suspende d from tre e s so that bears suppress all fires . ire has been e cannot ge t the m . Stor food in a vehicle proven a vital process in keeping many

. e . trunk In vehicl s without trunks , cover natural ecosystems healthy Occasional e e food compl tely with a blank t , roll up wildlands fires prevent fuel buildups

to . the windows , and lock the doors . Use that can lead catastrophic forest fires

- H o u bear proof food lockers where pro owever, it remains imperative that y - do s v ide d . Use be ar proof garbage cans . nothing careles that could cause ’ o u o u K e ep a cl e an camp ; don t leave refuse fires . If y see a fire y think may be o r e to . unatt nded food in camp anytime . a wildfire , please report it a ranger e e e Should you ncount r a b ar , keep

e . your distanc If it approaches you , make loud noise s and act aggressive to R intimidate it . ead and he e d Bear arn in n 1 are e W g o page 35 . If you injur d

1 42 Th e e Devils Postpile National Monument and fore sts from a distance . lak and Sequoia and Kings Canyon National tufa are in th e re ce ntly de signate d Parks De vils Po stpil e is a formation Mono Basin National Forest Scenic o f columnar basalt o n th e Middle Fork Are a and Mono Lak e Tufa State R e ’

G e e . o f th e San Joaquin R ive r . laci rs s rve The lake s future is uncertain e o n e e o f th e Po st il e e e th e D e e O f e quarri d away sid p , b caus partm nt Wat r and e xposing a sh e e r wall of columns 60 Pow e r of th e City O f Lo s Ange le s F e o e lie e th e e e fe e t high . all n c lumns b low div rts wat r from its inl t streams R F s e e e u se jumble d like posts . ainbow all h r southward via aqu duct for in that 1 2 . 9 8 e drops 1 01 fe e t . The John Muir Trail sprawling metropolis By Ow ns

e th e e . L e to th e w as s pass s through monum nt A camp ak , south , ucked dry by ’ grou nd is op e n from about July 1 to Lo s Ange le s dive rsions . It is now calle d - D L F r D P il e e e e r e . mid Octobe r . e vils o stp li s w st Ow ns y ak o information write

L . h L o fUS . 395 e e t e e e n ar Mammoth ak s It is to Mono ak Information C nter , 2 PO . 9 Le e 4 1 e . 3 9 5 . closed in wint r Box , Vining , CA S e quoia and Kings Canyon National Parks can b e re ache d by car only from The San Francisco Bay Area Offers

e F e s N P . the w st , via Visalia , r no , and several ational ark System sites inf e . e e o r Bakersfi ld , California Som trailh ads These are listed below with their

395 . e e : can b e re ach e d from U S . Th s mation addresses ’ e N ill N i n l H i toric Site contiguous parks harbor myriad sup r Eugene O e at o a s , ’ 2 D 4526 F lativ e s: e th e PO . Bo x 80 9 ort Sp ctacular canyons , world s , anville , CA ;

e s th e e Point National H istoric Site P. O . Bo x larg t living thing , and high st , th e e e e 29333 P o f F mountain in Unit d Stat s outsid , residio San rancisco , CA

- 4 1 2 l n N i n l R ere Alaska . Canyons include th e foot 9 9 ; Go de Gate at o a e i n r Fo M F e e . e at o ea d p Kings Canyon Mount Whitn y A , rt ason , San rancisco , 41 23 hn M ir N i n l H i oric stands at fee t in e le vation . At CA 9 ; Jo u at o a st e th e G e e e Site 4202 M y ars Old , n ral Sh rman , Alhambra Avenue , artinez , Tree boasts both colossal size and an CA 94553; Muir Woods National Monu 4 4 P in ti u it . G e ment M 9 9 1 o t q y iant s quoias , survivors Of , ill Valley, CA ; th e A e e Re es National Seashore P R last Ice g , stand in a s tting that y , oint eyes , Th 94956 San Francisco Maritime fully matche s the ir majesty . e John CA ; and u e National H istorical Park 204 Muir Trail co rs s through both parks . , Building ,

Fo r D e Po st il e Fo M F 941 23. information about vils p rt ason , San rancisco , CA and S e quoia and Kings Canyon write to e e e e Sup rint nd nt , S quoia and Kings N P e R e Canyon ational arks , Thre iv rs ,

CA 9327 1 .

Mono L ake Wate rs draining Off Yo ’ se mite s ste e p e aste rn Sie rra e scarp e e e th e e e m nt nev r r ach oc an . Th y u L G e nat rally flow into Mono ake , a r at e e e no Basin d s rt lak that has outle t . ’ Mono Lak e s exotic tufa formations built by min e ral d e posits from high

e e s e e G P : 1 - - salinity lak wat r , look lik p trified tr O 988 201 939 80002

1 43