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Old Times Afoot- Ancient Trails and the Local Home Of OUTDOOR ACTIVITY Old Times Afoot – Ancient Trails and the Local Home of Tea Old Times Afoot – AncientText and Photos by Dept. of Economic Development Trails and the Local Home of Tea Translated by Shannan Hu DISCOVER TAIPEI 60 Baozhong Tea. (Photo by Lin Jui-chu) Take a nostalgic look back at old time and taste the refreshing scent of A Fun Adventure into the that road you’ll come across a venerable he general impression of Tea centuries-old trail, and soon you’ll detect Mountains for Ancient Mountain in Taipei’s Nangang the sweet, refreshing scent of Baozhong Treasure! T district does not go beyond Tea(包種茶). The pathway will take you Among the five ancient trails that a superficial, simple notion of tea- to the area’s quaint, old-time residential connect Nangang to both Shenkeng production hamlets and crudely built buildings, and delectable historical relics. and Shiding, which lie in hilly country restaurants that offer dishes featuring The many faces of “Tea Town” await to Taipei’s east, the Gengliao Ancient range chicken raised in the local hills. But your eager exploration – it promises to Trail is perhaps the one trail that remains there’s more. Much more. Travel down be a delightful experience! the most intact, the most completely Old Times Afoot – Ancient Trails and the Local Home of Tea OUTDOOR ACTIVITY Old Times Afoot – Along the way is a treasure trove prosperous tea-producing mountain, Ancient Trails and the Local Homeof fresh scent and botanical of Tea where an influx of traders and buyers preserved, and species. met and deals were sealed. Tujiao Hut, surprisingly is with its paint coming off and hanging in still in use by patches, and the Zheng Cemetery sit in travelers and subdued silence by the footpath; and a holidaymakers. few steps down is a mini-version Land The Gengliao Tea plantations can be captured along the trails. (Earth) God Temple--a mere thirty trail is a pathway centimeters in stature. These that one must historical relics bear witness to travel through happenings of bygone days on this when visiting the century-old trail. Mountain Boar Den, or climbing Tuku Mountain. Rediscover the Local Along the way is Hometown of Tea a treasure trove The development of the Tea of historical delights! Expect to breathe Mountain can be traced back to Emperor fresher air while Even though granite stairways climbing the Tea Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty, more than DISCOVER TAIPEI Mountain. have been built along the trail to two hundred years ago. At that time the 61 accommodate travelers, the original Tea Mountain was a key landmark for pebbled route, a walkway so narrow enterprising traders, where camphor and that only one person can manage to appearance is the tea production for export were busily squeeze through, remains very popular only centenarian conducted. Mr. Wang Shui-jin and Mr. with the adventure-minded if they are house in the Wei Jing-shi, residents of Nangang’s Great disposed to a little prospecting. Go on Nangang district Hole Camphor Laoliao, had respectively up to the mountain’s mid-slope, and at that features bullet- researched and begun developed ways the back of a route-side pavilion sits a riddled walls -- the Pan Bullet-Riddled Wenshan Baozhong and Nangang stone-built hut, the Former Residence House, a heritage of war -- and it’s still Baozhong. The pair later realized that a of Huang Wang(黃王), with at least very much taken care of by its residents. A partnership would make their businesses seventy years of history under its belt. total of eight generations of the Pan family more profitable, and they formed a Inside the little hut is an antique tealeaf has inhabited the place, and if one cares to strategic alliance, ushering in Nangang's grinder. The ascending slope is nearing do a little math, this house is at least one- tea-based heyday. Their reputation spread as one soldiers on from here, but the hundred sixty years old! Those years have a great distance—even reaching the weeds and overgrowth lining both sides brought the house the same “everlasting” Malay Archipelago. Even today some of of the passageway might misinform you feel that imbues the neighborhood trails. Thailand’s old tea traders still tout their that you have stumbled onto the wrong The road that leads to Laoliao products as the “genuine Nangang article” artery. Fret not; just quicken your Ancient Trail(栳寮古道) is scattered to induce shopper interest. step and you’ll soon find yourself on a with lime mines on both sides, where About one-hundred and ten years scraggly macadamized road. Dainty workmen of the past toiled and sweated to ago, the Laoliao Ancient Trail was florets grow in riotous patches along develop new lands. We are now visiting frequently traveled by tea traders and the footpath. This section measures the remains and former residence of Mr. villagers. Before that, the trail provided only 300 meters in length, but pleasant Wei Jing-shi, the developer of Baozhong access to workmen harvesting camphor discoveries and scenic delights impart a Tea. Despite traces of life’s vagaries on trees. The pathway’s name thus bubbled delectable joy along the short distance. the dilapidated walls and courtyard, up naturally--the Camphor (Naoliao) The next ancient hut to make an this place was once the apogee of a Footpath. Its later title, Laoliao, was a OUTDOOR ACTIVITY Old Times Afoot – Ancient Trails and the Local Home of Tea Tourists will have many opportunities to see how teas are picked while visiting Nangang Tourism Tea Garden. (Photo by Yang Chih-jen) homonymic inspiration from Naoliao. Airport, the Neihu Incinerator, and Gengliao Ancient Trail was used by Mount Guanyin, taking in the panorama patrolling night-watchmen in the Qing of the Taipei Basin. dynasty; hence the name, as “geng” The vistas become means “night watch.” Then, in the all the more Osmanthus jelly makes perfect dessert. DISCOVER TAIPEI Japanese colonial period (1895-1945), breathtaking (Photo by Yang Chih-jen) the path became an access road for tea as you pass 62 traders moving back and forth between the summit: Shenkeng and Nangang. This place is an intact no longer a hub of traditional-industry stretch activity, but now has a new mission-- to of lush provide merrymakers with a nostalgic, time-capsule sort of entertainment. For five or six minutes on the narrow pebbled stairway after you enter the footpath, look to the right to catch the wonderful view of a mountain and the The refreshing jasmine-scented green tea help ease your pressure. gaping mouth into which the new Beiyi (Photo by Yang Chih-jen) Highway (No. 9 Provincial Highway) enters. This highway cuts through the base of Tuku Mountain, the Mountain mountain forest Boar Den, and Gengliao Ancient Trail, and flora ecology, where extending up to Shiding and Pinglin. flowers are dressed in their Spend a few moments soaking in the finest sway into your reach. Before you significance that you are standing at a have reached the crest, you will have point where a passageway from bygone encountered a whole patch of rarely time connects to the modernity of life. seen Cyathea lepifera (“flying spider- Time On sunny days, travelers may want monkey” tree ferns), an undisturbed, to take a short moment and stop in their pristine tropical rainforest. The sighs to Frolic – A tracks on the pebbled stairway, to look and murmurs of a ravine stream here Reward for Climbing the back on the way they have come. This seem to lift the spirits of foot-weary Mountain! vantage point provides a magnificent travelers, lightening their physical Nangang Tourism Tea Garden view of the city's most notable fatigue. Nangang came to the fore in the local landmarks: the Grand Hotel, Songshan market as an agricultural hub, and the Old Times Afoot – Ancient Trails and the Local Home of Tea OUTDOOR ACTIVITY birthplace of Taiwan’s Bāozhòng Chá. In growers assist visitors in learning the sure to add another 10 seconds each time the 11th year of Emperor Guangxu in the steps of the Bāozhòng Tea Ceremony: for the steepings, after the first round. Qing dynasty (1886), Wang Shui-jin and soak the leaves with boiling water at 100 This special tea ceremony promises the Wei Jing-shi of Fujian Province’s Anxi degrees Celsius, and leave them steeped best tea possible, minus any bitterness or County migrated to Taiwan, bringing tea- in the water for 30 seconds. Pour the mouth-puckering taste. It brings a faint, bush saplings with them. The duo began clear, freshly brewed tea into the serving delightful flavor to your tongue, sweet growing tea in Nangang, turning the town pitcher. This process is repeated three and smooth to the palate – providing into the birthplace of Taiwan’s Baozhong to four times, using the same tea leaves, much “tea” for thought! Cha. The popularity of Nangang tea and the tea will remain flavorful; but be grew to such an extent that tea products developed in nearby Shenkeng, Shiding, Pinglin, and Xindian had to be tagged These yummy osmanthus nectars will definitely satisfy your appetite. (Photo by Yang Chih-jen) with a “Nangang Baozhong Cha” label before they could be exported ! A small number of teahouse gardens remain in business in the Nangang area, most situated on Section 2 of Jiuzhuang Street, Nanshen Road, and Section 2 of Yanjiu Yuan (Academia) Road. Teahouse proprietors mostly grow and sell their own teas, keeping their business simple, and are widely liked by visiting merrymakers for being hospitable and laid-back.
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