outdoor activity Old Times Afoot – Ancient Trails and the Local Home of

Old Times Afoot –

AncientText and Photos by Dept. of Economic Development Trails and the Local Home of Tea Translated by Shannan Hu Discover Taipei

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Baozhong Tea. (Photo by Lin Jui-chu) Take a nostalgic look back at old time and taste the refreshing scent of A Fun Adventure into the that road you’ll come across a venerable he general impression of Tea centuries-old trail, and soon you’ll detect Mountains for Ancient Mountain in Taipei’s Nangang the sweet, refreshing scent of Baozhong Treasure! T district does not go beyond Tea(包種茶). The pathway will take you Among the five ancient trails that a superficial, simple notion of tea- to the area’s quaint, old-time residential connect Nangang to both Shenkeng production hamlets and crudely built buildings, and delectable historical relics. and Shiding, which lie in hilly country restaurants that offer dishes featuring The many faces of “Tea Town” await to Taipei’s east, the Gengliao Ancient range chicken raised in the local hills. But your eager exploration – it promises to Trail is perhaps the one trail that remains there’s more. Much more. Travel down be a delightful experience! the most intact, the most completely Old Times Afoot – Ancient Trails and the Local Home of Tea outdoor activity

Old Times Afoot –

Along the way is a treasure trove prosperous tea-producing mountain, Ancient Trails and the Local Homeof fresh scent and botanical of Tea where an influx of traders and buyers preserved, and species. met and deals were sealed. Tujiao Hut, surprisingly is with its paint coming off and hanging in still in use by patches, and the Zheng Cemetery sit in travelers and subdued silence by the footpath; and a holidaymakers. few steps down is a mini-version Land The Gengliao Tea plantations can be captured along the trails. (Earth) God Temple--a mere thirty trail is a pathway centimeters in stature. These that one must historical relics bear witness to travel through happenings of bygone days on this when visiting the century-old trail. Mountain Boar Den, or climbing Tuku Mountain. Rediscover the Local Along the way is Hometown of Tea a treasure trove The development of the Tea of historical delights! Expect to breathe Mountain can be traced back to Emperor fresher air while Even though granite stairways climbing the Tea Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty, more than Discover Taipei Mountain. have been built along the trail to two hundred years ago. At that time the 61 accommodate travelers, the original Tea Mountain was a key landmark for pebbled route, a walkway so narrow enterprising traders, where camphor and that only one person can manage to appearance is the tea production for export were busily squeeze through, remains very popular only centenarian conducted. Mr. Wang Shui-jin and Mr. with the adventure-minded if they are house in the Wei Jing-shi, residents of Nangang’s Great disposed to a little prospecting. Go on Nangang district Hole Camphor Laoliao, had respectively up to the mountain’s mid-slope, and at that features bullet- researched and begun developed ways the back of a route-side pavilion sits a riddled walls -- the Pan Bullet-Riddled Wenshan Baozhong and Nangang stone-built hut, the Former Residence House, a heritage of war -- and it’s still Baozhong. The pair later realized that a of Huang Wang(黃王), with at least very much taken care of by its residents. A partnership would make their businesses seventy years of history under its belt. total of eight generations of the Pan family more profitable, and they formed a Inside the little hut is an antique tealeaf has inhabited the place, and if one cares to strategic alliance, ushering in Nangang's grinder. The ascending slope is nearing do a little math, this house is at least one- tea-based heyday. Their reputation spread as one soldiers on from here, but the hundred sixty years old! Those years have a great distance—even reaching the weeds and overgrowth lining both sides brought the house the same “everlasting” Malay Archipelago. Even today some of of the passageway might misinform you feel that imbues the neighborhood trails. Thailand’s old tea traders still tout their that you have stumbled onto the wrong The road that leads to Laoliao products as the “genuine Nangang article” artery. Fret not; just quicken your Ancient Trail(栳寮古道) is scattered to induce shopper interest. step and you’ll soon find yourself on a with lime mines on both sides, where About one-hundred and ten years scraggly macadamized road. Dainty workmen of the past toiled and sweated to ago, the Laoliao Ancient Trail was florets grow in riotous patches along develop new lands. We are now visiting frequently traveled by tea traders and the footpath. This section measures the remains and former residence of Mr. villagers. Before that, the trail provided only 300 meters in length, but pleasant Wei Jing-shi, the developer of Baozhong access to workmen harvesting camphor discoveries and scenic delights impart a Tea. Despite traces of life’s vagaries on trees. The pathway’s name thus bubbled delectable joy along the short distance. the dilapidated walls and courtyard, up naturally--the Camphor (Naoliao) The next ancient hut to make an this place was once the apogee of a Footpath. Its later title, Laoliao, was a outdoor activity Old Times Afoot – Ancient Trails and the Local Home of Tea

Tourists will have many opportunities to see how are picked while visiting Nangang Tourism . (Photo by Yang Chih-jen)

homonymic inspiration from Naoliao. Airport, the Neihu Incinerator, and Gengliao Ancient Trail was used by Mount Guanyin, taking in the panorama patrolling night-watchmen in the Qing of the Taipei Basin. dynasty; hence the name, as “” The vistas become

means “night watch.” Then, in the all the more Osmanthus jelly makes perfect dessert.

Discover Taipei Japanese colonial period (1895-1945), breathtaking (Photo by Yang Chih-jen) the path became an access road for tea as you pass 62 traders moving back and forth between the summit: Shenkeng and Nangang. This place is an intact no longer a hub of traditional-industry stretch activity, but now has a new mission-- to of lush provide merrymakers with a nostalgic, time-capsule sort of entertainment. For five or six minutes on the narrow pebbled stairway after you enter the footpath, look to the right to catch the

wonderful view of a mountain and the The refreshing jasmine-scented help ease your pressure. gaping mouth into which the new Beiyi (Photo by Yang Chih-jen) Highway (No. 9 Provincial Highway) enters. This highway cuts through the base of Tuku Mountain, the Mountain mountain forest Boar Den, and Gengliao Ancient Trail, and flora ecology, where extending up to Shiding and Pinglin. flowers are dressed in their Spend a few moments soaking in the finest sway into your reach. Before you significance that you are standing at a have reached the crest, you will have point where a passageway from bygone encountered a whole patch of rarely time connects to the modernity of life. seen Cyathea lepifera (“flying spider- Time On sunny days, travelers may want monkey” tree ferns), an undisturbed, to take a short moment and stop in their pristine tropical rainforest. The sighs to Frolic – A tracks on the pebbled stairway, to look and murmurs of a ravine stream here Reward for Climbing the back on the way they have come. This seem to lift the spirits of foot-weary Mountain! vantage point provides a magnificent travelers, lightening their physical Nangang Tourism Tea Garden view of the city's most notable fatigue. Nangang came to the fore in the local landmarks: the Grand Hotel, Songshan market as an agricultural hub, and the Old Times Afoot – Ancient Trails and the Local Home of Tea outdoor activity

birthplace of ’s Bāozhòng Chá. In growers assist visitors in learning the sure to add another 10 seconds each time the 11th year of Emperor Guangxu in the steps of the Bāozhòng : for the steepings, after the first round. Qing dynasty (1886), Wang Shui-jin and soak the leaves with boiling water at 100 This special tea ceremony promises the Wei Jing-shi of Province’s Anxi degrees Celsius, and leave them steeped best tea possible, minus any bitterness or County migrated to Taiwan, bringing tea- in the water for 30 seconds. Pour the mouth-puckering taste. It brings a faint, bush saplings with them. The duo began clear, freshly brewed tea into the serving delightful flavor to your tongue, sweet growing tea in Nangang, turning the town pitcher. This process is repeated three and smooth to the palate – providing into the birthplace of Taiwan’s Baozhong to four times, using the same tea leaves, much “tea” for thought! Cha. The popularity of Nangang tea and the tea will remain flavorful; but be grew to such an extent that tea products developed in nearby Shenkeng, Shiding, Pinglin, and Xindian had to be tagged These yummy osmanthus nectars will definitely satisfy your appetite. (Photo by Yang Chih-jen) with a “Nangang Baozhong Cha” label before they could be exported ! A small number of gardens remain in business in the Nangang area, most situated on Section 2 of Jiuzhuang Street, Nanshen Road, and Section 2 of Yanjiu Yuan (Academia) Road. Teahouse proprietors mostly grow and sell their own teas, keeping their business simple, and are widely liked by visiting merrymakers for being hospitable and laid-back. Other than seeing how tea

is picked and made during the harvest, Discover Taipei tourists are encouraged to sit down and 63 have a cup, to sample the aroma of the oldest—the original—.

Demonstration Tea Factory of Nangang This factory facility was consigned to the management of Nangang Farmer's Cooperative by the Taipei City Department of Economic Development. The refreshing jasmine-scented green tea help ease your pressure. For the longest time the establishment (Photo by Yang Chih-jen) has been the nexus of tourism and tea-culture promotion for Nangang's tea growers. Baozhong Tea growing contests are staged at regular intervals by the factory, in spring, autumn, and winter. Step inside and you will find a demonstration classroom where a tea- making machine sits, a historic display featuring tea-culture relics, and an event- planning and internship center. Visitors can get a glimpse into the Baozhong Tea manufacturing and packaging process, and become participants in passing on the legacies of Nangang tea. And here is the best part of this tour, one well worthy of anticipation: the in-house tea outdoor activity Old Times Afoot – Ancient Trails and the Local Home of Tea

親山步道 指示牌 碧山橋 The Green Mountain Bridge Qinshan Pathway Signs 鄰近步道 廁所 舊 Neighboring Pathway Bathroom 莊 建議行走路線 涼亭 街 Recommended Walkway Pavilion 二 舊莊總站 段 公路或產業道路 捷運 1 Highway or Industrial Roadway MRT station Jiuzhuang Terminal 2 2 親山認證打印台 公車 Station 巷 Qinshan CertificationStamp Service Station Bus station ction 2, Lane et, Se 122 親山步道登山口 商店及飲食 Jiuzhuang Stre 環山茶行 Qinshan Pathway Pass Shops and Food Service 醫護 Huan Shan Tea Shop 鄰近步道登山口 舊 Hospital and Medical Service Neighboring Pathway Pass 莊 公用電話 街 Payphone 二段 南 20 大 隧 0巷 道 Jiu 坑 The zh 溪 Na au nga g D ng n ak Tu S e nn t n el r g e Ri 更 e 舊 v t er 寮 , 莊 古 S 街 e 莊街 二 道 c 舊 二 段 t 段 i 2 22 親 o 32巷 J 5 n iu 巷 山 z Jiu 2 h zh , ua 步 L u ng 道 a a St n re Th n e e 山豬窟山 e g 魏靜時故居 t, S G 2 製茶傳習所 S ec e 0 栳 ti n Mountain Boar 0 tr Former Residence of o g e n l Tea Making 寮 e 2 i Den Mountain t , a , S Mr. Wei Jingshi L o Practicum 古 e an A 道 ctio e 2 n 石 n 2, 25 c T La i 碇 ne e h 23 n 隧 e 2 t 道 La n Ind T ol e u r T ia D str a h o 攔水壩 r i i e A a l S nc a l , o R h ient tain B o a i Trai The Water un a n di l 1 d n o ne 9 d g Barring Dam M a Q T e L u , i n h ad n n T o s e h l R a 路 en n 道 h P s a n t

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產 N a y 窟 巷 1 第一市民農園 豬 9 The First Citizen Farm , Lane 233 山 n 2 路 ectio t, S 深 e e r 南 t S g 舊 n Discover Taipei ua 莊 Jiuzh 街 3巷 二 段23 64 灰窯大尖 望高寮（土庫岳） The Gray Kiln Mountain Wanggao Liao (Tuku Mountain)

Ancient trails and pathway. (Photo courtesy of Dept. of Economic Development) Transportation Info Nangang Sweet Osmanthus Festival Osmanthus has been grown here in Nangang for just Before You Hit the Road about as long as Baozhong Cha, because it is a key ingredient 1 The Mini 5 shuttle bus will stop to pick up travelers in the mountain areas. Just wave the driver. However, in making the fragrant, jasmine-scented green tea. Local tea scheduled runs are infrequent and service is sporadic. farmers themselves cure fresh osmanthus, and ferment the Make sure you look up its timetable before you take off. dried flowers into popular osmanthus nectar using a traditional 2 For a half-day trip in the mountains, it’s advisable that recipe. The nectar is justifiably one of the most celebrated you arrive at the mountain pass before 7 am, and enjoy local specialty products. You will definitely not miss the patch breakfast in a nearby tourist teahouse, which are aplenty in this area. If you are disposed to sampling various after patch of glorious osmanthus woods grown by the farming dishes made with tea for dinner, we suggest that you residents as you move from the Tea Garden community on arrive at the pass before 4 pm. Jiuzhuang Street in Nangang, and follow the rural pathway, Let’s Go Mountain Climbing! crossing the mountaintop, to the mountainous areas in Shiding By MRT: Take the Banqiao-Nangang Line to Kunyang, of Taipei County, or travel down Nanshen Road to Shenkeng. followed by a ride in shuttle-bus Mini 5, and get In the eighth month of the lunar calendar the floral gems of off at Jiuzhuang 2nd Stop. osmanthus put on a dazzling show as they go into full bloom; By Bus: Take a United Operation Bus public bus, either 212, local communities move to organize the “Taipei Nangang 276, 306, 645, or Mini 5, to the terminal station, Osmanthus Festival.” With arresting forests nestled on Jiuzhuang. After getting off the bus, walk along the footpath along the bus-terminal station, to the mountain and in valley, art-deco arrangements along narrow entrance of the trail, at Lane 122. footways planked over the cliffs, clouds of delicate osmanthus Return trip: Cross the road to the Mini 5 bus stop, right announcing the arrival of a great party – the hills here veritably across the street from the entrance, on explode with color and texture, a treasure in every season. Jiuzhuang Street, Lane 2. Take the Mini 5 bus to Kunyang MRT station.