Theise Manifesto
Beauty is more important than impact.
Harmony is more important than intensity.
The whole of any wine must always be more than the sum of its parts.
Distinctiveness is more important than conventional prettiness.
Soul is more important than anything, and soul is expressed as a trinity of family, soil and artisanality.
Lots of wines, many of them good wines, let you taste the noise. But only the best let you taste the silence. tasting ofnothing,thenyoushouldbedrinkingfarmer-fizz! rapturous withsweetnessinsteadofsomeJanuarytomatoyoubuyatthesupermarket hard asastoneand DIVERSITY, anddiversityleadstoVITALITY . Andifyou’drathereatalocalfield-ripenedsummer tomato Thing butisindeedaBEING,expressive ofwhere itgrew andwhoraisedit.Indrinkingityouhelpprotect You should drinkgrower-Champagne because,likeallhand-craftedestate-bottled wines,itisnotamere for massivePRandadbudgets,ortoholdonmarket-share. You shoulddrinkitbecauseitspriceishonestlybasedonwhatcoststoproduce, notmanipulatedtoaccount company. yours—by a“him,”notbyan“it.”You shoulddrinkitbecauseit'sbettertobuywinefrom apersonthanfrom a You shoulddrinkitbecauseit'shonestREALwinegrown andmadebyavintner—byFAMILY justlike goods” business. more thanthelowest-commondenominatorpapservedupbymegaconglomeratesin“luxury You shoulddrinkgrower-Champagne iftheindividuallydistinctiveflavorsofterroir-driven winesmatter Champagne likeawholehumanbeing? be persuadedto“consume.”Doyoureally wanttobereduced toamere “consumer”whenyoucandrink to vineyard, thanawine“formed”bymarketingswamiwho’s studiedtothenth-degree whatyoucan You shoulddrinkitifyou'dratherhaveawineexpressive ofvineyard, andthegrower's ownconnection You shoulddrink“farmer-fizz” ifyou'dratherbuyChampagnefrom afarmerthanfactory. You shoulddrinkgrower Champagneifyou'veforgottenthatisWINE. Why DrinkGrower Champagne?
Introduction Contents
Introduction // 1
Côte des Blancs
Pierre Gimonnet // 6
Varnier-Fannière // 10
Jean Milan // 12
Pierre Péters // 14
Vallée de la Marne
Marc Hébrart // 16
Henri Goutorbe // 19
Drinking the ’53 at Gaston Chiquet // 21
Gaston Chiquet // 22
René Geoffroy // 25
Moussé Fils // 28
Montagne de Reims
Henri Billiot // 30
Jean Lallement // 32
Pehu-Simonet // 34
A. Margaine // 36
Vilmart & Cie // 38
L. Aubry Fils // 42
Chartogne-Taillet // 45
Champagne Vintages // 48 Introduction
We’re now entering year 17 in the farmer-fizz-biz, and the numbers tell an interesting story. When I began there were 33 RM Champagnes imported into the United States. In 2013 there were 231. Introduction
Way back at the inception, when everybody thought get in on the action, but all the best growers were spoken that “no-name” Champagnes would never sell, their for. Taste honestly, gentle reader, and don’t settle for third- market share was a piddling 0.62%. As good as zilch. In best, because you don’t have to. 2013 that share had grown to almost 5%, a number I have In the top range you’ll find a treasure of different long held as a goal. styles and expressions. But again I’ll caution you; some I’ll preface it by saying that more and more good vendors will try to enlist you in a jihad over some item of growers emerge all the time. The success of the early controversy they’ve ginned up, and this is a waste of your wave gave courage to those who came after, who might time and a signal they can’t sell their wine on its merits. have gone on selling grapes to the Negoçiants or the (This is a pity, as the wines are usually excellent and don’t co-ops, but who saw how hip it was to make your own need a layer of dogma to be sold.) For that matter you’ll terroir-imprinted Champagne. So, there are a lot of good find an ecumenical range of styles within this portfolio, growers. But, are there enough to sustain a market share not because I’m a something-for-everyone kinda guy, of 5% or higher without diluting quality? Here I’m not but because I saw no point in redundancy. I’ve walked so sure. You should feel free to run these numbers past away from some very good growers because their wines any impartial observer you might wish (Liem and Baker were too similar to things I already had. So I urge you spring to mind) if you suspect me of being self-serving, to be suspicious of all doctrine, because the only sensible but I doubt very much there are more than around fifty doctrine is to avoid them altogether. growers whom one could credibly call superb. There are But why not aim for more than five percent? Why probably another hundred or so who are, let’s say, very not indeed? I don’t have any firm notion of what the good. But beyond those, I think there’s some middling upward limit could possibly be, but I have a concern I’ll RM Champagnes imported by merchants who wanted to share with you.
1 Journalists are talking to every cool grower. The celebrated “house-styles” of the Big Brands has less to cool growers are talking to one another, which believe do with their grape sources and more to do with various me wasn’t always the case. The increased attention additives present in the dosage liqueur. “After they’ve done being paid to every aspect of Champagne has had a everything they can to remove all flavor from the wines, (mostly) favorable effect on the negoçiants also, who they then add it back at the end with doctored dosage,” I
Introduction are less secretive and who even sometimes say things was told. Introduction that aren’t self-serving bullshit. If you look only at the All of this is entirely to be expected, but it does I leading American wine writers paying careful attention think compel us to ask: do we want to buy wine from to Champagne, you have to agree the status of coverage these guys? Especially wine with so much expectation has grown exponentially higher. Take a bow Josh, Brad, attached! “Champagne” carries a charge, and even those Antonio and Peter. of us who argue for its everyday usefulness at-table must I’ve generally spent this intro text considering all the admit that, emotionally, Champagne is used differently ways it’s whimsical and wry to tweak the Big Houses for all than other wines. We invest our hearts in it, whether we’re their silly behaviors (and mediocre wines), but I think I’ll celebrating or consoling, and in those moments do we ease off a little. I’m grateful that business is so good. My really want to be observing these solemn or glad occasions growers and I are making better friends with each passing with something a suit-with-a-spreadsheet designed? year. Most of you have well understood why it’s nicer to buy Champagne from families than from factories. TWO THINGS YOU PROBABLY DIDN’T KNOW Just two little points to make, though. There’s still a few stubborn holdouts who persist in repeating the Most of you do know that Champagne villages are argument that all Negoçiants are not evil and not all of classified on a so-called “scale of growths,” and that 17 their Champagnes are awful. Then they get all populist of these villages are Grand Cru, after which there’s a and claim we should drink whatever we think tastes good. slew of Premier Crus and then a very big glom of just- I find such an argument staggeringly obtuse, and seriously plain Crus. Many of you know, or have wondered, how unnecessary. they could classify entire communes, when any given If you want to consider the Big Houses based on how commune’s vineyards are bound to vary in quality. To they behave, i.e., how they ration information, how they use a blatant example, the least of (GC) Cramant isn’t as treat their customers, how they treat the growers they buy good as the best of (PC) Cuis, its neighbor. The natural grapes from, you’ll quickly learn that most of them are... question becomes, why isn’t there a classification of actual um, not very nice. Whenever I have a spasm of indulgent vineyards within communes, so that the best of them can tolerance, people who know the region better than I do be recognized? are quick to remind me how silly it is to cut these guys any The usual answer is, everybody knows which are the slack at all. Apart from which, to them I’m just a flea. best parcels and sites, but it would be politically impossible Most of the Big Brand Champagne is ordinary to enact such a granular classification, because all it could mediocre wine. It’s industrial, and tastes like it. It is, do is harm. That is, think of a grower who trades on his arguably, “reliable” and there’s something to be said “Grand Cru” Cramant, whereas in fact he has the lowest- for that. I admire how decent some of the wines are, quality land in the commune. If his parcels are suddenly considering how and in what volume they are made. But downgraded to Premier Cru, it’s tantamount to lifting insisting on drinking them because you should “drink Euros from his pocket. Growers would take to the streets what you like” is a waste of time and money. with pitchforks. So, it is argued; such a classification is It goes without saying that honorable exceptions impossible. exist. All of us know who they are. And it should go Except, it already exists. And is used. Just not shared without saying that I’m talking about the basic NVs with the likes of us. here; the Tête-de-Cuvées are almost always excellent and Each commune has land in categories A, B and C, sometimes superb, and cost about 70-100% more than and the hierarchy is taken into account for all manner they’re worth. of vineyard work including the issuing of the official One of my growers painted a bleak picture of permission to start harvesting. It is based largely on typical vinification at a Big Brand facility. His cousin microclimate. These things have been studied, observed, is a cellar-rat there. First the must is centrifuged and and are known. So JB Geoffroy might receive permission chaptalized and pressed very quickly with cultured yeasts, to pick his (warmest) category-A vineyards in Cumieres enzymes and nitrogen. The result, already denuded of 3-4 days before he’s allowed to start in the category-B much of its original flavor, is aged in stainless steel and vineyards, and Cumieres in general will begin earlier than,
racked frequently to avoid any H2S taint, fined and say, Damery or Dizy. filtered and rendered, in effect, neutral. There is nothing Ambient warmth isn’t everything. There are geological especially shocking here; these are industrial products, factors in play, as well as exposure, and it could well be after all, guided by expediency and market research. But that a grower’s cooler vineyard—say an east-facing parcel the worst is yet to come. What really constitutes the —will give his best wine because of a longer hang-time.
2 Degree-days alone are a blunt object. Yet! I think this watched them return to reasonableness, and was happy. information should be shared with the public, because I Less dosage is not always better. It doesn’t make think the more we know about where wines come from, your wine more honest, more pure, more transparent, the more deeply we will understand them. more sophisticated or more honorable; it just makes it Another thing we don’t talk about enough is this: more dry. Among the many dubious things we owe the When Didier Gimonnet told me “We waited to pick big Champagne houses is that they’ve poisoned the well and then had to pick all at once because the grapes were by making their commercial bottlings treacly-sweet in order to ripening immediately; we actually picked some lots with mask the deficiencies of the base product, or because they 10.5 and even 11% potential alcohol,” my first question presume their “market” wants the wines sweet. And so we all was how you keep the eventual Champagne within the believe that less sweetness is more desirable. First we let them typical 12.5% alc after the second fermentation. It turns dupe us, and then we duped ourselves. Introduction out there are two ways. One is, you manipulate the second Less sweetness is more desirable under two and fermentation by the amount of sugar in the liqueur de only two circumstances in Champagne: one, the wine tirage, and the other is you manipulate residual sugar. In tastes better that way; two, the drinker happens to short, you will create less supplemental alcohol by using honestly dislike sweetness in his Champagne. (We’ll less sugar in your sugar-yeast mixture. Which in turn leave aside for the moment the sweetness he accepts in means you won’t necessarily have the six atmospheres of myriad other things...). You cannot determine these pressure one presumes are present in normal Champagne. things until you taste. Can you imagine someone saying In fact this is far from uniform, and one grower told me, “I ate a lot of Fritos when I was a kid, and now I just “You can find everything from four and a half to six and can’t stand the taste of salt in anything.” Somehow it’s only all points between.” sugar that inspires these theological disputes. Something we hear less often is that not all secondary Tom Stevenson recently published an article in fermentations complete to absolute dryness. I don’t World of FineWine in which he said—someone finally suppose it happens a lot, but I’m also certain there are said—that Champagnes with less than 6 grams per liter Champagnes with residual sugar in the base wine before (g/L) wouldn’t age well. I’ll revisit this subject when I dosage is added. It’s worth remembering when you listen write about the many shades of “Brut” a little later on. to the dry or anti-dosage purists. Most of them of course There’s a fragile balance of power in Champagne. The mean exactly what they say, but we should at least bear in Houses need the growers to supply them grapes. Many are mind, when someone says how dry his wine is because he abjectly dependent on their network of cute little paysannes. uses little or no dosage, that his base wine may have had a The growers claim to need the Houses to act as flagships, dollop of its own sweetness. furthering the good image of Champagne throughout the I opened my existing Champagne catalogue and saw world. Publicly, the Houses put on a tolerant face as regards I’d written a desperate note: “Must we talk about residual the growers. Privately... well, you see. sugar any more?” This is the inevitable downside of the One grower with whom we discussed the “ethics” Champenoise entering the current of trendiness. of marketing grower Champagne said, “We ourselves Last year was the year-of-the-dosage-trials, as growers are really not in a position to criticize the Grandes let me further in to their process. I am touched by the Marques, because they break new ground for Champagne, collegial gestures of trust. I also have strong opinions open new markets, and eventually we get our small share on this question, or better said, one strong opinion. It’s of it too. We’d never have the ability to do that on our simple and seems self-evident, until you contemplate how own; we’re too small. Look, we taste around, we know infrequently it is applied. very well how mediocre their wines are, but we need them.” Wine should be balanced. Different wines are “It sounds like you also need us,” I observed, “to fight balanced with different amounts of sweetness, and a few this fight for you, to say the things you know but can’t say.” are balanced with little or none. The 4 g/L of a Lallement “Exactly,” came the reply. Rosé would simply not work with Margaine’s Rosé, but Champagne Fleury was threatened with a it’s perfect for Lallement. Other examples abound. lawsuit because the label on their Rosé bore a certain But why does this even need to be said? This is resemblance to Perrier-Jouët’s Fleur de Champagne kindergarten wine understanding! But, sadly, a common- (never mind the Fleury was a Rosé, in a clear bottle, sense proposition like this one is mortally threatened by unlikely to be mistaken for PJ’s wine except by the color- an obtuse and dogmatic insistence that drier is always blind), thus invoking trademark protection issues, PJ’s preferable. And this idea is just stupid enough to be having effectively trademarked flowers apparently. I can speciously seductive, and a lot of otherwise sharp cookies only imagine how threatened they must have felt by the were seduced. 100 cases of Fleury Rosé rampaging through the American So I was hugely encouraged when two growers shared market. But still, zero tolerance and all that. Around the their dosage trials with me, because these were two who same time I learned that Clicquot was suing a sparkling seemed at risk of slipping down the rabbit hole whereby wine producer in Tasmania who had the temerity to use dryness was forced into their wines as proof of purity. I a yellow label on their fizz. Perhaps the Houses should
3 collectively trademark VOWELS, so that the growers thereafter. Not when it’s one of the easiest slamdunk food would have to call their wine “Chmpgn.” wines of all. Many of you know this already, so I’ll spare you the exegeses. I have always disliked bombast and What is this thing called “Brut?” ostentation in any aesthetic object, and wines that scream to be noticed are exactly those I find easiest to ignore.
Introduction One thing it isn’t is drier than it used to be, But wines slide smoothly onto the palate and dance in despite those news reports that “Brut” would be confined to sync with food are the wines which, paradoxically, have 12 g/L or below, instead of the 15 g/L which was formerly the most to say to us. And Champagne, among such allowed. Well, that is not exactly true; it’s truthy, as Mr. wines, is perhaps the most refined and sensuous. Colbert would say. Because this fierce new rule permits a tolerance of 1.5 g/L in either direction. “Nothing’s going The 2005 problem to change,” is what I was told again and again. One time I ordered a vintage Blanc de Blancs from As recently as two years ago, I felt fairly confident one of the better négociants. It ought to have been good, that many 2005 Champagnes suffered from an off-aroma and it was. Out of curiosity I left half a glass to go flat. and flavor resembling rotten potatoes or moldering Tasting it at the end of the meal, I was startled to see how mushrooms. Among all the various explanations offered sweet it was. as to the possible cause, a geosmin infection seemed most The next morning at Pierre Gimonnet I tasted plausible. The problem, at first denied, was now being his N.V. Brut, which had 6 g/L residual sugar. This was discussed openly, and the CIVC (and credit where it’s certainly dry Champagne, correctly called “Brut.” But due, many of the big houses) were spending money trying a commercial Champagne with 15 g/L sweetness (the to get to the root cause. highest legally permitted, and very often seen across With the passing of a year, I’m more in the dark than the big brands), low acidity, neutral character, all of ever. Some of the affected wines have actually shed the
it disguised by CO2, is SWEET wine. It tastes like a yuckies and are now tasting clean. I have no idea how Rheinhessen Kabinett with 30 g/L residual sugar. this could have happened. If it is random bottle variation, And both of them called “Brut”!” then why?? If it is some thing that passed into and then The dosage liqueur is one of two things: either through the wines, then what?? And how? wine (of varying type) to which cane or beet sugar is Peter Liem reports having experienced the added, or concentrated grape must. And naturally, phenomenon with several 2006s—which I have not. But growers’ opinions differ! if this is true, then what does it suggest? Let’s remember, Insofar as all the must-concentrate seems to hail a starchy aroma and also the scent of fresh button from the Languedoc, I have some doubts. Uneasy is the mushrooms are typical for many Champagnes. Is 2005 mouth which speaks of terroir in one breath and describes aberrant only by having exaggerated these ordinary things? adding Languedoc must concentrate to Champagne in Or is it alien? Again, we don’t know, I don’t know, and the the next. Even more uneasy is the mouth intoning its only sensible thing to do as a professional and a human organic credentials while adding chemically produced being is to keep tasting, let all hypotheses be provisional Languedoc must concentrate to his wine instead of the and malleable, and admit the limits to one’s knowledge. organic alternative: sugar (organically grown) dissolved in Whether one likes 2005, assuming you have a pristine his own organic wine. What you have to probe to learn is one, is a simple question of taste. They’re heavy-footed that must concentrate is much easier to work with than and, by Champagne’s standards of finesse and grace, a conventional dosage liqueur. Easier means cheaper, and little crude. As always, exceptions exist. But it’s a vintage an earlier end to the workday. for tasters who like ’em gutsy. A basic conceptual error is to consider dosage exclusively Indulge me a minute. When I did a Champagne lunch as a corrective device by which an inadequate wine is made for the Chicago trade, I found myself talking a lot about viable. Thus you hear growers say “My wine is so good it the benefits of being wrong, or being clueless. When I was doesn’t need a high dosage. “What further complicates the younger I wanted to appear authoritative, and I thought issue is that sometimes this is true. But sometimes not! For the way one did that was to affect omniscience. And to me, the idea that dosage is a necessary evil to be minimized state big strong opinions. As the mystery of the 2005 at all costs is short-sighted. It also distorts the grower’s view vintage deepened, I found I felt happier. The demolition of his wine, because he is only seeing through a prism of of successive theories was a helpful lesson in humility, and sugar. Dosage should be adjusted according to a wine’s a reminder to always be prepared for surprise; wine knows beauty and to its aging capacity. more than we do, and it always has the last word. It seemed more valuable to share this with my fellow professionals Champagne at the table than to sound like I Knew My Shit because I harbored no evident doubts. I wonder if it did any good—who knows? I warn you now: if we do a wine dinner I won’t There’s more conversation about reduction allow Champagne to be used as an aperitif and ignored in Champagne, but one year I learned that the so-called
4 Gout de Lumière (the taste of light) is often mistaken affectation. We asked the ones we knew could be bluntly for reduction. A gentleman named John Woodward honest, and they claimed they weren’t smelling or tasting wrote this very useful explanation. what was blatantly clear to us. (We all know that wine [The gout de lumière is] “light-struck taint caused by growers can be somewhat blinded by being so close to methionine and vitamin B2 degradation with the their wines.) generation of a bevy of noxious smelling thiols. It will occur in There were “grassy” flavors in 2010-based wines also, just a few weeks on a retail shelf, even sooner under bright but these seem to have faded (even disappeared) over the flourescent lighting, and will persist in the bottle through past year. Where do they go? Will the more vegetal flavors cellaring.” To which I would only add, it is of course most of ’11 also disappear? I wish I knew. What I do know is, prevalent in clear-glass bottles, even frosted clear-glass, I can’t have you tasting those flavors, and then looking at which need to be wrapped in UV-ray repelling paper. I my notes where I don’t refer to them, and you think “Can Introduction experimented in the ol’ home cellar, putting one bottle he possibly NOT have noticed this?” of Rosé on the wine rack where it would be exposed to I suspect the 2010 grassiness was finally “cleansed” daylight, and I left another in its case. Opened them both away by ordinary development and/or by additional time after 30 days, and the difference was apparent. on the lees. Peters NV, one of the wines where the flavor There are more oaky Champagnes than ever was most conspicuous, is also one of the wines that have before. Trendy. Ugh, for the most part. Though some changed the most in the last 9-12 months. And so this is are very fine, the problem arises because oak always what I’ll do: first I’ll be honest and clear with you. I’ll say tastes... like oak. It’s like that period in cuisine when when that “2011” flavor is present and to what degree. everyone was cilantro crazy. Again, many of these oak- I’ll emphasize that the taste may very well be fleeting. driven Champagnes are fine and even excellent, but to I’ll point out that many of you won’t mind it, and some me they’re guilty until proven innocent. may even love it. I’m a low-tolerance taster where pyrenes There is a new problem to talk about, and in the are concerned, so I may be exaggerating its impact. But spirit of humility I’ll tell you what I tasted and admit I I don’t sleep well if I’m dissembling with you, because I don’t know what caused it or where it might go. want you not only to trust me, but to keep trusting me. Some time last year I ordered a Chablis by the glass in a restaurant. Serious wine list, good wine sensibility, A SMALL DIGRESSION ON THE QUESTION OF PRIDE how wrong could I go? As it turned out I might just have ordered the Reuilly, because this Chablis tasted like I’m often asked if I’m proud to have created a Sauvignon Blanc. A few weeks later there was another grower-Champagne revolution, and while I understand from a different grower, and I wondered whether this the question, I can’t think of it in terms of pride. That’s grassiness was a signature of ’11 in Chablis. partly because pride is a dangerous thing for me. I was I looked at my tasting notebook for 2012, where I’d a vainglorious young man, and it wasn’t pretty, and it have noted any 2011 vins claires I’d tasted in Champagne, took a good deal of blowback to beat it out of my system. and saw frequent references to “ladybug” flavors, and And believe me, I don’t want it back. So I avoid feeling thought ah-ha, the same flavors I saw in those Chablis. “proud.” A month ago in Burgundy I saw the flavor again, in I am, though, really happy this all happened. Whatever several of the whites. And not just satellite appellations; my role may have been, it began with me indulging my these were wines with pedigree. So it seems reasonable to love of Champagne, and wanting an excuse to be there conclude that flavors one might describe as “vegetal” or and drink the wines as often as I could. Then once there, “grassy” seem to be present in 2011 wines from at least I noticed how interesting the terroirs were, and how no this part of the world. I don’t know whether this is an one talked about them. I also noticed a nascent culture aspect of underripeness or whether actual ladybugs were of growers whom no one talked about either, because present, but this flavor is often there. they were being sold the wrong way. Slapping one or two 2011 wines are entering the non-vintage cuvées now, Champagne growers into your French-wine-portfolio and their “special” flavor enters with them. The flavor isn’t seemed to me to be tokenism. So I followed an instinct inherently objectionable—some people relish it—but it’s that this story was a compelling story, and set about to atypical. Though I tasted it in virtually every wine with tell it. I lucked out by having a splendid field of excellent ’11 juice in the blend, at times it was no more than a growers among whom I could cherry-pick. But each time nuance. At other times it appeared to dominate. It doesn’t I’m tempted to feel über-cool, I remember that you guys seem specific to Chardonnay, because I tasted it in a had to be receptive to the story (and the wines) and that few PN-based rosés. I also tasted it in TWO negoçiant it wasn’t me who made the wines; it was all these brave Champagnes I happen to have drunk in the past several unselfish growers, who could have made a better living weeks. One cynical observer pointed out that the big selling grapes like their fathers did. If there’s any “pride” houses would remove this flavor as part of the process of in this equation, it belongs to them and to you, not to me. removing all flavor, and yeah, that could be. My growers I am just very pleased that my work made things better. didn’t seem aware of the flavor, or perhaps this was an Because I know it did.
5
Didier. Didier.
hanging
heavy and clumsy.” ger Grand Cru,
VERY BEAUTIFULVERY O (chalk and clay) journalists for his views on yields Côte des Blancs // Cuis Côte des
Cru “soft” minerality dispersed through er
, especially from the climat “Croix “Croix the climat , especially from Cuis oir N alcohol of nearly 13% (T.T. here: 9-10% is alcohol of nearly 13% (T.T.
Gimonnet’s vineyards are vineyards more than 40 Gimonnet’s I admit I find obscure. It shows very little shows It obscure. find I admit I
ts neighbor just across the Cramant line is called “Les Cramant the ts neighbor just across Chouilly I The wines of
a berried tartness and a there’s fruit as-such. Instead minerality. alongside an indirect serious spine of structure like on the plain, “smells Aigu,” down The climat “Mont Gimonnet! to... according Gimonnet” again, and quince flowers are there Suddenly Gromonts.” why Who knows along with a tactile crushed minerality. all know when we they put the commune line just there, in general is the Riesling is a hoax…. Cramant terroir The very in neighboring old parcel Chardonnay. lover’s Grüner (planted in 1911) often recalls du Bâteau” “Fond is open and tangy; “Buissons” char. in its forceful Veltliner and most other climates echo Riesling at its greenest fit in the existing recipes. So either those recipes must recipes must either those So recipes. fit in the existing created. change, or new recipes of fruits and flowers, and redolent fresh are Blanche,” femininity lively a give They peonies. especially quince and viable as wines on their own. to a cuvée, and often are is indispensable feels that a certain amount of Cuis Didier Cru it costs him the Grand though to his style, even integrity. That’s designation in many instances. Cru (chalk); Cuis 1 er ÿ 1 A racy wines. These are very deliciously accommodating to
Later, when we were tasting the lots for assemblage, we agreed Later,
wines, which have all the density they need and no more. “In 2003
100. The wines tolerate a very low dosage, 6-8 grams per liter for
ÿ Grand Cru, Mareuil sur ÿ Grand Cru, Mareuil vineyard area // 28 hectares area vineyard // 20,800 cases annual production Chouilly Grand Cru, // Cramant Grand Cru, villages & soil types A 98% Chardonnay, 2% Pinot 98% Chardonnay, grape varieties // surely heard, a great left some grapes vintage,” he said. “And just as an experiment we
en years of tasting vins clairs with of en years this wine was useless to us; it belonged nowhere. We ended up selling it off. It was this wine was useless to us; it belonged nowhere. We “For me, we must have concentration, but also balance, elegance and harmony,” says harmony,” “For me, we must have concentration, but also balance, elegance and
with great class and savor. And sensible prices! with great class and savor. imonnet’s is a polished domaine as small-growers as small-growers is a polished domaine imonnet’s
After sev G F
WINE how the wines taste // The wines are suave, creamy and refined, with a wines rather than vigorous, stylish the fruit. Silky, the palate. Old vines impart a palpable creaminess. The majority of years old, the oldest parcel (in Cramant) is most Bruts. and ripeness. And he goes on making his lovely we had, as you’ve three weeks after the end of the regular harvest. They achieved a potential considered normal) and we vinified them separately. unanimously, 28-hectare winery, therefore is it because good is which wine, enough a glance // 28-hectareGimonnet at winery, Gimonnet, I’m beginning to grok his thinking about to grok beginning I’m Gimonnet, also better able to I’m in his pantry. these “ingredients” unease at the new understand his cognitive alien terroirs don’t They Vertus. and in Oger with which he has to work
go, with his 28 hectares, the most in the Côte des Blancs. Blancs. des Côte the in most the hectares, 28 his with go, taste can now and you area, his reception renovated He’s to be. It you know as the delicate ladies and gentlemen I wants to find some then Didier elegant. But I say, is, dare and instead piece of information about a harvest gone by, to (nowhere iPad of pulling it up on his up-to-the-minute a decidedly ratty pocket- be seen, in fact) he pulls it from scribbled by all the data are little notebook, where sized This I just love. hand.
This is more than just word-wash for him. He’s constantly challenged by callow This is more than just word-wash for him. He’s alien Pinot the contained , which the scandalous Paradoxe And even help us, he has a Rosé. heaven rule with his100%Chardonnay irst hebreached And now, Noir. amazing, this man who has always insisted that more elegant Champagnes, blending is indispensible to creating planning a trilogy of single-commune wines from is now Cramant; Oger, the outstanding 2012 vintage. Chouilly, maybe just this once, he says. Uh huh! Didier is proof that you can’t just let the cat’s whiskers out of the bag; if any part whiskers of just let the cat’s can’t you that Didier is proof she all gets out. the cat gets out
66 Pierre Gimonnet Pierre
Côte des Blancs Pierre Gimonnet guided at each issue that but nature isn’t wrong. to He and has the belly-richnessan extremely dry alone wine for his zero-dosage Oenophile Though hewasintriguedwhenIsuggestedit masculine; even 5%ofitinacuvéedominates Didier can’t see where it fitsinhisstyle. It’s too But happyasheistohave thisoutstanding tobacco,but suave sweet-smoky likecherry iridescent. Cramant iscomplexandincisive, notpowerful.
say, butheisconvinced thepress has gottenitall
could easilyflimflamit; weallknow therightthings N D Then camethe“ quite proud abouthisown, whichare generous. or shouldwe ever forgetthequestion ofvinedensity. idier is very muchthegadflyas regardsidier isvery yields,
and managed. His honestyisbracing. We wantittobesimple vine, how it’s andhow pruned itsproduction is
comes anywhere closetothe“truth” istolook
like that.For the metheonlyway toview Terres deNoël”—utterly
Champagne needs.
cuvée.
and yummy.
smoky, too
as astand-
the cuvée. the cuvée. The wine The wine different, vineyard, because through like none of a kindof low you have, andit’s standthantheytake. asmarter easy answers. They’ll sayyou’re scared totakeastand,but question andnotshrinkfrom itsintricacies,orinsiston me.” But hard the true, work isto actually think low yields are a must, andI want them to accept coolkids on thepersonyou thinkyou wanttobe.“The on suchscrapsofinformationasyou’ve accumulated–or anopinion based wine, theeasythingistoformandassert neighbor’s. In thisasinallvalue-weighted questionsin yields” on paper, but hisyield-per-vine is lower thanhis grower whohas10,000mayhave whatlooklike“high In aregion where 8,000vinesperhectare iscommon,a
D yields in Champagne make for winesof opacity, over-reduced sauces; black holesofintensity idier believes andis delighted to tellyou that too
they are not;theyare justwhathesaystheyare. you have ever complainedhiswinesare dilute, which noflavor canemerge. He prizes instead
moderation, transparency, andelegance. And examine the 7
Côte des Blancs Pierre Gimonnet
KPG-5 KPG-1 KPG-1H KPG-1M KPG-209
.V. .V. N
.V. .V. .V., 12/375ml .V., 3/1.5L .V., N N N osé de Blancs” Brut, R blend along with 10% still PN from Bouzy. It’s 35.8% Chouilly (Montaigu, a top a (Montaigu, Chouilly 35.8% It’s Bouzy. from PN 10% still along with blend Gastronome Cuvée 8 climat), 27.5% Cramant (mostly Buissons, very old vines), 11.7% Oger (Terres de Noël, Brulis, Champs Nérons), 14.8% Champs Nérons), Brulis, de Noël, very (Terres (mostly Buissons, old vines), 11.7% Oger climat), 27.5% Cramant Vertus. a top climat) and 0.4% Blanche, (Croix Cuis King it also smells like fresh now; right herbal (but not vegetal) The wine is very 11/2013—and shows young—disgorged couple months when it starts taste amazing with just that fish in another and will probably arriving. Salmon, j Brut, 2009 Gimonnet et Fils “Cuvée Gastronome” Pierre always that is, also in effect a “young-vintage,” dint of a gentler mousse. It’s by The concept is a food-friendly Champagne and Cuis. Chouilly also dominated by wine. It’s Vintage but not the a single year and 15% Oger with 20% Cramant Blanche), (Croix old) and 26% Cuis 58 years this case 39% Chouilly (Montaigu In 9/2013. for plot-names). Disgorged (see above this one; a wonderful mineral of the cuvée the vibrating aroma, and I love of mine, favorite This is always a subjective by a cobalt-like mineral dominated flavor all-in, loaded with clear upfront really of the vintage; it’s with the sunny greeting echo; both stirringly complex and also glad to see you. wet-forest with an ozone-y like iron, density, This is based on the on based is This Pierre Gimonnet et Fils “ Pierre Pierre Gimonnet et Fils Cuis 1er Cru Brut, Fils Cuis 1er Cru Gimonnet et Pierre Brut, Fils Cuis 1er Cru Gimonnet et Pierre Permit me an anecdote. I was on my way to dinner at SPQR in San Francisco, and they have an all-Italian wine list. I wine list. an all-Italian they have and Francisco, in San way to dinner at SPQR I was on my me an anecdote. Permit the street, down into D&M wines wandered So I shared. me especially if I indulge they’d and figured wanted Champagne amazed. it was opened my companion and I were When me. Lucky NV in the cold box. Gimonnet and found a bottle of was among the very it also agreed of best bottles We agreed. had,” we ever “This NV I’ve is the best bottle of Gimonnet had. ever NV we’d de Blancs any Blanc the level above is barely and 2006 (1%). It 2010 (6%) 2009 (12%) 2007 (4%) based on 2011 (77%), with Is 151” “Cuvée designation his part, a bracing integrity on glommed onto that trendy because he could have which shows Brut,” of “Extra it was better for the wine. it because be just above but opted instead to it keeps them fresher. not in tank, because in Magnum stored this wine is, the reserveThe salient aspect of vintages are of complexity; this wine in effect a chain-reaction have so we blend of that year, is actually the NV And, the “vintage” seasons in it. the fruitcould easily have of 25 growing of the was among the most attractive It should last us until veryI tasted an 11/2013 disgorgement which this year. late NV Gimonnet. has potential to turn into a classic ’11-based cuvées. It with (72%), 2008 on based and 133” “cuvée wine, quality (++) a it’s fact wine—in same the not is The MAGNUM at first, 10/2013, it had steely Magnum-aromas equal proportions of 06-05-04. Disgorged 13.3% of 2007 and roughly you In between of herbs on a sunny evening. and the finish is a beautiful garden but the palate is dramatically mineral need is patience and luck. Luck? all you complexity is spellbinding, and The grainy-green teeth. jagged steel get bitten by want to be there. sudden, and you all of a come alive Magnums because sometimes these Yes, Pierre Gimonnet et Fils Cuis 1er Cru Brut, Cru Brut, Cuis 1er et Fils Gimonnet Pierre
Côte des Blancs Pierre Gimonnet ’07s do. If you recall lastyear’s 2006withitsopen-armedgreeting, thisoneseemsmarkedly stern,fornow atleast. butitneedstime,timeandmoreAnd thisisdetailed,sophisticatedChampagne,judicious and prudent, time—asmany Champagne withPN,diditanywayandbrilliantly. Oger), disgorged 11/2013.Of coursethe“paradox” isthatthisarch-wizard ofBlanc deBlancs, whoswore he’d never make 52% PN (from Aÿ and Mareuil) and 48% CH (from Mareuil, interestingly, along with Cuis, Cramant, Chouilly and Pierre GimonnetetFils“Paradoxe”Brut,2007 is oneofsalt,bergamotandoldBaoZhong tea. Disgorged September 2012, it’s a necessarily superficial look at a wine with decadesin front of it, but that first impression Vielle Vignes deChardonnay Brut,2005,3/1.5L Pierre GimonnetetFils“MillésimedeCollection” splendid Whole. The bestvintagesince2002. a hugevolume ofsavor andbigmineral;it’s notpixilatedordefinedbutratheracomplexsaucethathasmarriedinto grip andclass;inthiscaseahighlyintricateflavor ofpatisserie,wet cereal, glidingweightlessly over thepalateyet asserting It’s a pure, classy Gimonnet fragrance—really, no other Champagnesmells this way—and the palate is saturated with Cuis (“for freshness andtheGimonnet signature”). It’s 65%Cramant (three climats,aboutone-third consistingofwell over 100-year vines),22.5%Chouillyand12.5% one oftheIcons oftheCôtedesBlancs. Disgorged January 2014,we’ll seethismasterpieceintheearlyAutumn, andthenyou’ll know whyGimonnet Clubis Could have beendesignated“Extra Brut,” FWIW. j Pierre GimonnetetFils“SpécialClub”Brut,2006,6/750mlj on theMalpeques… oyster talcandwhiteflowers; shellandsweated fennel,chervil, abeautifulsaltywine,starchy andstrict yet generous. Bring This isFleuron withoutdosage.It’s wine; 83%Grand finebone-dry henceitsweight, Cru, andasalwaysthisisavery Pierre GimonnetetFils“Cuvée chalky leesiness,withseductive slinkyvinosityandastunningfinish. expressive, itwillhugelyreward another7-10years. In factwithmore timeentirage it’s slimmingdown andshowing more “killer;” musselsandblackpepper, andpungentwith’06’s gorgeouslyweird playofroundness andpointedness.Already For methisisusuallyGimonnet’s mostmasculinewine.It’s strikinglyleesyandchalky, thekindofwiney’all wouldcall of thelevel ofsugaroracidity;it’s aquestionofelements.” Disgorged October 2012;I’ll mentionthelow dosageof6g/lonlybecauseasageremark ofDidier’s; “It’s notaquestion j Pierre GimonnetetFils“Fleuron” Brut,2006j Top Value A lert! O enophile” 2006
( j )
KPG-605VM KPG-907 KPG-406 KPG-306 KPG-706 9
Côte des Blancs Pierre Gimonnet
ger Grand Cru (chalk) O etical hybrid of Pierre Péters etical hybrid of Pierre Côte des Blancs // Avize Côte des ernier, but the fruit is unique. The fruit the but is unique. ernier, back-straining work of the old Coquard Coquard old the of work back-straining the
are fastidious and etched: even his Rosé. You You his Rosé. fastidious and etched: even are The style is a theor enis does full malo, and is another one who
Larmandier-B
D
press. undertakes and wines his Champagnes are so silky and refreshing: he micro- so silky and refreshing: his Champagnes are to use less sulfur and to the still wines in order oxygenates encourage the tertiaries to express. vize Grand Cru, Cramant Grand Cru, vize Grand Cru, Cramant A vineyard area // 4 hectares area vineyard // 3,000 cases annual production // villages & soil types 100% Chardonnay grape varieties //
t turns out Denis has as much land in Cramant as has as much land in Cramant t turns out Denis
N I 10 he does in Avize, and I also learned one possible reason and I also learned one possible reason he does in Avize, vigneron 4 hectare domaine with exclusively Grand Cru land. Young at a glance // Tiny, Varnier-Fannière making feline-snappy ultra-clear wines.
They exude dosage. as regards conceived correctly they are like the calligraphy are They class and fastidious detail. but graphite-y way, that in theyincisive are only ot slightly lower I learned they have And this year of Avize. than many Champagnes – about 15-20% less. pressure This may be why they feel so silky and limpid I’m on a total Varnier kick these days. I don’t know how Champagne can give more more give can Champagne how know don’t I days. these kick Varnier total a on I’m affectionate pleasure. Varnier-Fannière
Côte des Blancs Varnier-Fannière hit uponthe first chit-chat wasfierce. Did anyone elsewriteatasting note?? fine domain the very Paul Dethune inAmbonnay, andit’s 10% ofthetotal.Iknow thewinewasexcellent butman,the After a spell when this was just the basic NV plus red, this is now older—60% 09 and 40% 10; the PN still comes from Varnier-Fannière so Icanemote,y’know? andminerality.the surrounding fruit justshutup towritenotes. The chatterwasactive atthispointandIstruggled Y’all Half-half 2010-2011, and among the better of the wines containing ’11, as its aromas are delicate and well-jacketed by Varnier-Fannière GrandCruBrut, plus. Callit2.99999plusses,becauseit’s all here, astunning stab&jabofmineralandflowers. of this;it’s ofyoung Côte-des-Blancs, perfection andIhadtoflailmyselfwithagiantstick towithholdthatthird thevery OK, sowhatdowe andIhave have? never 40% 08, 60%09,disgorged12/2013,dosageperfect, smelledabetteredition this cuvéewillhailfrom amixoftheoldestvinesfrom various parcels. This Montrachet, whichfrom itsoutward appearance doesn’t looklikeagreat vineyard. buthere Iwilltestgoingforward, seemstoagree. intheCdBeveryone It’sthroughout Champagne,atheory likeLe the hillsides,butonflatterland yet nottoofarintotheplain. Soils are even chalkierlower down. Thismaybetrue Allow meadigression. One thingIlearnedis thatintheCôtedesBlancs, manyofthebestvineyards are notinfacton on theplain. From asingle parcel with77-year-old vines(andolder)calledClosduGrand Père inAvize, neartheviticulturalschool, This astonishingChampagneis THE SINGLEGREATEST VALUE IN THIS PORTFOLIO IN2014. Varnier-Fannière “CuvéeSaint-Denis”Brut, with theravishingchalkandflowers of’08. It maybeasgreat as2002;ithastheguts andlengthofthatvintage. fragrances splitthedifference ofthetwocommunes,greenChampagne, thisisextraordinary teaandgraphite;
I Clos isclearlyagreat vineyard, butit’s goingtoneedbereplanted, thankstoviralinfections,andinthenearfuture
trip toChampagne,andforsomereason he had a colleague with me one year making his they’re inspectingastone?Drinking Denis’ those magnifyinggogglesthejewelerswear
who gives theimpression hecouldfix your
Champagne.” Denis isamodern-looking
is likelookingatflavor through those
topic oftemperature control during Denis answered thequestionthus: R osé Brut, N .V.
N .V.
O N rigine” j j .V. j j
E xtra Brut, ( j 1990 wasgreat a glassof focus onhimas to whatIalready for recreation hurry. Ienjoy bottle of it as it another good monocru computer, )
N
deserved; it’sdeserved; excellent fizz. Then Iopened a .V. j
V that’s the Tête-de-Cuvée forPierre Callot, Champagne andwe dranktheClosJacquin and hisdomaineissmallsowe don’t arnier’s 1990andwe gotperspective ina
small grower inAvize. Andwe admired (and education)buteachtimeIreturn
wine. drinking “other” grower’s Champagnes
we really should.Ihadfriendsover for
have, Iamaffirmedandgrateful. This KVF-308 KVF-4 KVF-1 KVF-2 KVF-5 11
Côte des Blancs Varnier-Fannière owing, but that will end. In but that will end. In owing, Côte des Blancs // Oger Côte des The estate had been gr ger Grand Cru (chalk) O fact it will shrink to a size consistent with sustainability. consistent with sustainability. fact it will shrink to a size bought-grapes will cease (which may The cuvée(s) from kind of power, by which she will both endure and find the which she will both endure by kind of power, essence is a bright and way to her essence. And Caroline’s beautiful thing.
vineyard area // 6 hectares area vineyard // 9,000 cases annual production // villages & soil types 100% Chardonnay grape varieties //
oline’s condition isn’t fatal, but it entails a change- fatal, isn’t condition oline’s Car
of-life, and because I am very fond of her I am awfully sad first and foremost. That’s for the pain she must endure. as this is also the dimming of a gleaming bright star, There human being. woman and a seriously glowing is a resolute it will turn into a will not disappear; the glow And yet, 12 They have that pencil-y minerality beneath the loveliest imaginable fruit. They arehow the wines taste // They have that pencil-y minerality beneath the loveliest imaginable fruit. They truly miss them. Prices are amazingly reasonable and availability is better than you’d expectexquisite wines. Just don’t from a small domaine. Wonderful discovery marvelousJean Milan at a glance // Wonderful in the heart of the Côte des Blancs. Champagnes of purity and focus.
My emotions were flapping around like a racquetball this visit. The wines were almost were wines The this visit. like a racquetball around flapping emotions were My this domain. from years outstanding, the best in many veryentirely good, and a few were her, condition that will diminish is ill with a chronic Milan my friend Caroline But up ahead. about tell you the estate, which I’ll and this will enact changes in Jean Milan Jean
Côte des Blancs Jean Milan have the effect of restoring the “RM” designation) and a from his neighborhood. To him Oger is masculine and couple of different wines will collapse into single wines smoky, but again, I see it otherwise. Oger is big-bodied, now. This is also not a bad thing. yes, but it isn’t burly, and if I use a word like “queenly,” I If you’re new to this portfolio, then all you need to hope you’ll know I mean regal in a womanly way. know is Milan is the best grower in Oger, and the wines In fact there are at least two faces of Oger. One is thread the needle between minerality and fruits and overtly fruity and buttery, with pear and even stone fruit; smokiness, which is Oger at its most vivid and expressive. they can make you think of Puligny. The other is a shady Oger sits between Avize to the north and Le Mesnil coolness, with some of the cucumber-saline savor of to the south, and though it’s tempting to suppose its west coast oysters. What I have yet to find in Oger are wines are a stylistic bridge between those communes, I the Riesling-like green tea notes of Cramant, the Chenin Jean Milan see it otherwise. There’s more steep hillside land in Oger, face of Cuis, the deep earthiness of certain Mesnil, or a lot of it on a south-facing hill that gives the wines more the orange-blossom notes of certain other Mesnil. Oger generosity than, say, Cramant or Chouilly. Gimonnet stands alone—and is better for it. The Champagnes I’ll finds them entirely alien to the cool green stony wines offer you are all 100% Oger.
Jean Milan “Millenaire” Brut, N.V. KML-10
This cuvée, which was the “superior” NV, will henceforth be combined with the “regular” NV (called Brut Spéciale) and Côte des Blancs become a single wine. That being the case, I opted to offer only this one now, though the price is a little higher than was its simpler sibling. It’s 09 and 10 in equal parts, disgorged 12/2013 (and showing it), and it has some of the ’10 grassiness to shrug off, though its fluffy texture combines well with the rather herbal fruit. The lovely finish points the way forward.
Jean Milan “Transparence” 2007 KML-207 This is the extremely dry one. Disgorged 4/2012 so it’s had time to develop on the cork. It’s curiously tasty, this dry beasty, showing some of the mustard-green zing of the vintage but also the “shady” side of Oger terroir.
Jean Milan “Symphorine” Brut 2009 j KML-509 The name combines “symphony” with “Caroline,” and yes it’s a bit cute, but isn’t it better than yet-another reserve- prestige-selection etc? Disgorged 1/2014 it shows ’09 at its best; ripe, scallop and brioche, a markedly generous version of a normally “cool” Champagne. It’s from four parcels in Oger: Zailleux, Beaudures, Barbettes and Chênets. This is actually better than the single-vineyard Terres de Noël, which is why I’m waiting for the next vintage of Terres de Noël!
Jean Milan Grande Reserve Brut “Cuvée de Réserve,” N.V. j j KML-7 A superb edition of this wine. Remember, it’s a cask-vinified, long-aged late-disgorged old-school rural woodsy Champagne, aged agrafé (with a cork instead of a crown-cap), and it stands among the highlights of my Champagne trip. Equal parts 05-06, it exhales a truly fantastic fragrance, burnished and dignified, loving and compelling and woodsy, inferential and haunting. Good bottles of this have always been a singular pleasure, and this is all dripping trees in a warm rainy forest, leaf-floor, a fire somewhere far away blowing threads of smoke; tranquil, content and numinous.
Jean Milan “150 Ans” Brut, N.V. j j KML-512 Two wines were made (the other is a Rosé) to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the founding of the estate. The bottle’s in a funny kind of white wrapper, but the wine is sensational. Equal parts 08-09, some vinification in wood, and leaving everything extraneous aside, it’s a stirring and inspirational Côte des Blancs, and as gorgeous as Oger could ever be. Wanting to confirm my good first-impression, I drove a bottle over to the Mosel and drank it a week later with Johannes and Barbara Selbach and with Clint Sloan and Robert Houde (my amazing Chicago distributor) and if you don’t believe me, ask them—the wine rocks. (The Rosé, by the way, was showing the 2011 flavor courtesy of some Bouzy PN from that vintage, so I decided to wait and see what happens. Also a note to lovers of the Sec bottling “Cuvée Tendresse,” this is also showing that 2011 aspect, and until I know what happens to those wines I’m going to be ultra-selective in what I offer you.)
13 to
the wines as starched, in common with Mosel
ger Grand Cru, O we tasted Vins Clairs we the most exciting ere ger Grand Cru, e’s making a second single-vineyard wine now, Les wine now, making a second single-vineyard e’s (Cretaceous chalk) inally there’s a new non-vintage wine called Reserve inally there’s O These w H F E Côte des Blancs // Le Mesnil-Sur-Oger Côte des
because Rodolph’s of getting more, any chance is there out.Nor basicallymaxed we’re withthisgrowth ven are. eager to take their allocations, just as we customers are all as otherwise you, be planning and so should we’ll We’ll run October. out of wine by and I understood Rodolph’s the 2013 vintage, from greatest he told me it was perhaps the estate’s excitement; they of the wines as accepted several have harvest. (!) I’d as still wines. were, in road Mesnil-Vertus out near the a vineyard Jolis, Mont and wants a feminine there, has six parcels the plain. He see We’ll wines of Chetillons. consort to the very “manly” And The vin clair was excellent. in a few years. the results off the ga-hinges, a potion of a 2000 vintage was entirely and cocoa lobster and tonka bean and duck demi-glace 2000 at least as good as the powder; and malt and porcini it. drank alongside Chetillons we the quantity of which is homeopathic. Alas, theOubliée, pads. off the knee dustin’ I’m so completely superb, is wine high in acidity, they are exceptionally low in pH, which high in acidity,
vize Grand Cru A wines, a concentration of the minerally essence of the type, and straining at
palate and their trilling high notes of aroma. My best Germanpalate and their wine customers tend
Cramant Grand Cru, Cramant Grand Cru, vineyard area // 20 hectares area vineyard // 14,000 cases annual production // Le Mesnil-sur- villages & soil types 100% Chardonnay grape varieties // as though the fruit wanted to burst free and run at full gallop. Lately I have described
wine in general, then these are like Saar gives them their attack on the 14 Let’s put it this way: if Blanc de Blancs Champagne has something put it this how the wines taste // Let’s As many of you discovered these are blow-your-mind Champagnes; you sold themyou sold Champagnes; discoveredof you Pierre Péters at a glance // As many are these blow-your-mind out in a flash! Crystaline, jewel-like firmnessmealy depth give these a Krug-like profile nearly unique and immense among Blanc de Blancs. the leash for they have that crisp stiffness. Though not exceptionally prefer these to any Champagne I offer.
It’s a hive of activity, growing acreage, a new cuverie, several projects to upgrade the to upgrade projects several a new cuverie, acreage, growing of activity, a hive It’s theywines—as though place. all in all the buzz of a happening needed it—and Pierre Péters Pierre
Côte des Blancs Pierre Péters of ’11. upcoming edition, disgorged 12/2013,is all 2011, has thecolorof sockeye salmon, and of course the special fragrance In principleaChardonnay (from the parcel Musette) is blended with macerated Meunier and, I gather, co-fermented. The Pierre Péters gigantic weightless precision ofNigl’s bestwines. The finishisadoctoralthesisin terroir trigonometry. But itendsuplikecobalt ortitaniumconcentratedintoatinynarrow tubeandthenrammed ontoyour palate.It hasthe andsubstanceneedingairtoemerge. ’07attack,andtheusualtendencyoffruit Disgorged 11/2013; thishasthepeppery j Pierre PétersCuvéeSpéciale“LesChétillons”Brut,2007j hope that2009willsheditsyouthfully oafishwaysandslimdown intosomethingfine-grained. and quince.”It’s (4g/LRS)butdoesn’t dry very needamicro-fraction more. It’s thistypeofwinethatencouragesmeto entirely seductive, yet below and fennel-frond; all that is a swollen waveRodolph of chalk, chervil said “pink grapefruit The fantastic2009,abouttobesold,ismuch“sunnier.” (08islunar.) It’s classicbriocheandsaffron inavelouté that’s than many’08s,butliltingandincisive; whitelilacsandhyssop. The puristcanliedown withthe hedonist over thisone. What apair! The finaldisgorgementofthe’08is1/2014,andit’s racy, chalkyandsplendid;more mineralandlessflowery j Pierre PétersMillésimeBrut,2009j j Pierre PétersMillésimeBrut,2008j from Cognac,sotheChampagnehasaslybitofboisafterall. concentrate theydothemselves (doesanyone elseinChampagnedothis???)andageita60-literbarrel ofoldwood intense; vigorously white and green—verbena and osmanthus, talc and lilies. They make their own dosage from must- Alas!DisgorgedThe wineiswonderful. 6/2013,it’s all2008;tighterthanthebasicNVandinthiscasemore pointedly Champagne. It’s agedagrafé onthelees,alsoforlongerthanregular NV. be used. What he did instead was to age the wine an extra year intankbefore The wineanswers achallengepresented toPeters by aBritish winewriter, toloosenthewinesupby permittingcasksto There willbevery Pierre Péters“ curious toseewhere thisgoes. 2011. He saidhefoundit“malic, likeanunripepear,” butthere toemerge.I’m wasalsoamineralitystruggling deeply ofitshowsprocess ofknittingtogether;part theround doughinessofthe“solera” andtheothershows the vegetality of The lastdisgorgementof that ’10 cuvée was 9/2013 andI doubt ifthere’s any left of it. ’11-based wine is in the The new assemblage. One ofRodolph’s aimsistogive thiswinegreater age,andthisprocess takesthetimeitneeds. years, soyou cancallita“solera” ora“perpetual reserve” buttheprincipleissame—toconstantlyfreshen acomplex a classicPétersinleanvein. In principlethisishalfofthecurrent-prevailing year andhalfacuvéeofallthepreceding Time onthecork really didreward the2010-basedversion we soldlastyear, outgrassyandmorphedinto whichstarted Pierre Péters“Cuvéede R R osé “For littleofthisforus. eserve O A R ubliée” Brut, lbanne” Brut, éserve” Brut, N N .V. j N .V.
.V.
( j )
tirage, to create a “mature but not oxidative” KPP-311 KPP-307 KPP-209 KPP-208 KPP-1A KPP-6 15
Côte des Blancs Pierre Péters
in
land 75% fruit.
1983 Crus
averaging
wonderful
juicy
unlike any I know unlike any I know
erzy but richer, far erzy but richer, power of Verzenay, Verzenay, of power than Aÿ, altogether
V
e were talking about e were this portfolio, for Jean-
75% Pinot Noir from the
Cru (chalk) Burgundy, Mareuil could well could well Mareuil Burgundy,
fermentation in petite cuvée, er
r 1 O I really like. al d’
uit of Mareuil Pinot Noir is Noir Pinot uit of Mareuil iry Grand Cru, Chouilly Grand Cru,iry Grand Cru, Chouilly O venay V A ean-Paul has 15 hectares now, thanks to the purchase of thanks to the purchase now, has 15 hectares ean-Paul Vallée de la Marne // Mareuil-Sur-Aÿ Vallée J This came up when w The fr it was in The estate as such exists since 1963, but Cru, comme il faut than the savage more be Morey-St.-Denis. there’s and Mareuil Oiry, 1985. Along with Chouilly, An interesting moment to pay a call on one’s assumption moment to pay a call on one’s An interesting that filtration is always evil, eh? which is two new in Aÿ and one in Avize, parcels parcels. has sixty-eight different now news. He infer the rest. can probably You biodynamics. in Champagne: firmer and less malty not unlike less chunky than Bouzy, than less smoky perfumeysoftly less than Ambonnay, if it were Indeed Cumières. it, joining the Club began to grow Jean-Paul that fils — all 1er Cru. It’s d’Or Val and Avenay in Bisseuil with vineyards and 25% Chardonnay, Noir Pinot undergo malo. The wines old. 36 years er oir, 30% Chardonnay oir, N
vize Grand Cru, A Cru, Bisseuil 1 er ÿ 1 A Noir sites of the Vallée de la Marne with Grand Cru Chardonnay sites in the Noir sites of the Vallée t I was looking for
Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Avenay Val d’Or and Bisseuil and 25% Chardonnay from the Grand the Chardonnay from 25% and Bisseuil and d’Or Val Avenay Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Mareuil sur Mareuil vineyard area // 15.5 hectares area vineyard // 8,750 cases annual production // villages & soil types grape varieties // 70% Pinot grape varieties // of
Hébrart’s wines are buoyant and lithe with deft integrations of minerality and minerality areof wines integrations deft with lithe and buoyant Hébrart’s Blancs.
e’s always a surprise here. We were tasting vins were We always a surprise here. e’s
one in my line of work rises and falls with the one in my line of work Ther
When I first came to Hébrar Any
eat 1er Cru vineyards Cru eat 1er clairs and two samples were poured, the first was a little poured, clairs and two samples were was more its oak, while the 2nd clunky and showing The the same wine. were They and higher toned. refined two days before. the second filtered first was unfiltered,
could fruit. Champagne anyone I had all the rock-head and chipper more little a something sought I and want, wines are I certainly found it—Jean-Paul’s chummy. was predicted have I couldn’t what with fruit. But replete this point I can’t become. At they’d precise ever-more how the fathom—a Champagne that gives even recall—can’t of fruitbest of both worlds; the utmost purity with the get such brilliance and You utmost clarity of expression. This could taste each grape. you swear you’d transparency little domain is Champagne aristocracy.
fortunes of his agencies if you’re in business long enough. fortunes of his agencies if you’re sometimes for the better and change, Generations just a matter of time and again it’s sometimes not. Now Then, if get his legs under him. person to for the young But also, estates will coast. wait. Sometimes, can, you you was always excellent an estate that sometimes, like now, a fluke. think it’s happens one time, you It becomes stellar. not. it’s know happens again and again, you It how the wines taste // Hébrart represents a departure from the other producers in Chouilly and Oiry in the Côte des Blancs. Hand selected grapes, Bucher pressing, malolactic, hand remuage. wines marry the top Pinot Paul’s That said, he does produce a Blanc de Blancs from Oiry and Chouilly which 16 Exciting producer in the Vallée de la Marne producing Marc Hébrart at a glance // Exciting producer in the Vallée des Côte
Again and again I confront these Champagnes, tasting them there with him, tasting them there these Champagnes, tasting and again I confront Again had them in my them at home, and every drinking with you, time I’ve them elsewhere get Champagne really “Does found myself thinking I’ve years glass for the past several any better than this?” Marc Hébrart Marc gr
Vallée de la Marne Marc Hébrart happening together, leading toamintyfinishoffinicky refinement. —this isjustasgood.Avamping fragrance;andthepalateisinsane,athousandtinyexplosionsof flavor refined all sexy After thestunningqualityof lastyear’s edition—theonlyChampagneI’ve ever boughtasolidcaseofformyown cellar Chouilly. Disgorged 9/2013. This “superior” NV is 72% 2009 and28% 2008-07. It’s 65% old-vines Mareuil and PN,and35% CHfrom Oiry AMONG THEVERYBEST VALUES PORTFOLIO!IN THIS Marc Hébrart“Sélection”Brut, nothing likeit. especially mineral;itissavory, puff-pastry, muchMareuil, very andtotallydelicious;tomato-water, tonkabeans… Iknow a superbfragrance!Amarkedly flowerypalate—whatflowers Idon’t know—but really overt. Itisn’t inferential nor Champagne, that’sThis hasalwaysbeenawonderful littleofit.Andthishas onlyinconspicuousbecausewe getvery the echelledesCrus ). 65% 2010,35%2009-08.It’s andChouilly(Grand 30%Oiry and70%Mareuil Cru) (thoughrated99%on 1erCru Marc HébrartBlancdeBlancsBrut, hadn’t seenthatflavor yet, somynotesdidn’t remark onitsabsence. and taut.It isnotshowing anyof“the 2011flavor” whichisextremely interesting; thiswasthe2ndestateIvisited,and elemental; thepalateissprightlyandchalkyCeylon-tea-like.It istypicallydeftandfocused,atypicallyperfumey like apuppyversion ofthewine,thoughhedidwell toincrease thevolume wineintheblend. ofreserve The fragranceis When thisisonformitoffersanincomparableexpression ofPinot Noir, likesomeclearetherof Volnay. This editionis 10/2013. 54% 2011, 46% 2010-09. It’s 77% PN (from Mareuil, Avenay and Bisseuil) and 23% CH (from Mareuil). Disgorged Marc Hébrart“Cuvéede R éserve” Brut, N .V.j j N .V. j N .V.
KMH-2 KMH-6 KMH-1 17
Vallée de la Marne Marc Hébrart
KMH-5 KMH-309 KMH-708
j ) ( xtra Brut, 2008 j j E
) j ive-Droite” Grand Cru ive-Droite” R ( .V. N ive-Gauche- osé Brut, osé Brut, R R 18 Marc Hébrart “ Marc Oiry and Chauffour). 50% old vines CH from Longchamp and Chauzelles, climats Pruche, Aÿ (from 50% PN from Disgorged barrels. use in 3rd Vinified Gimonnet). from know one we and Montaigu—the Justice (climats Chouilly yeasts. ambient no cold stabilization, 10/2013. Unfiltered, Club does. than the Special wiggle-room him more Cru that would give Grand The original idea was a 50-50 blend from tasted. I have far the best version this is by with vintage 2004, Begun less oaky than Bollinger—but it’s wood—put in perspective, expressive and deftly ’08 flowers call it a unique aroma: Let’s meat jus, a slinky wonderful sideways attack and an butter, chestnuts and brown also salty and vinous, avuncular even; it develops. be watching eagerly to see how though, and I’ll Enormously impressive finish. attenuated ever-so-delicately 60% old-vines PN from Mareuil. 30% old-vines CH from Oiry and Chouilly, and another 15% of that wine vinified in vinified in that wine 15% of another and Oiry 30% old-vines CH from Chouilly, and Mareuil. from 60% old-vines PN 11/2013. Disgorged barrel. high-toned fruits—the more ’08 was yellow smells like Champagne. Riper plump than the ravishing ’08. It This is more wait this beauty while you a better Club? Drink there still, this is trulybut less incisiveness; splendid. Is power —more for the 2008. Marc Hébrart “Special Club” Brut 2009, 6/750ml j Hébrart “Special Club” Marc j Complex blend: 50% Mareuil CH from 2011. 43% Mareuil PN from 2010-09. 7% still red PN from Mareuil, from from Mareuil, PN from 7% still red 2010-09. PN from 43% Mareuil 2011. CH from blend: 50% Mareuil Complex 11/2013. 2010. Disgorged wears a conservative at work a lady librarian, who Think of pervy as least for has a definite image-tone, This wine me. little her imagine cheekbones. Now accentuate her high glasses that horn-rimmed in a bun, wears hair pulled back suit, has her it her clothes removes Off go the glasses. As she and tumbles. her hair loose; it flows shakes She work. getting home from or maybe she just likes feeling sexy. is visiting, her lover taste in dessous. Perhaps the lady has ooh-la-la is revealed sortWhat of wine does she find her mail. to read down and settles herself a glass of Hébrart she pours Rosé way, Either (the impact of the 2011), but it resolves The palate is a little catty than usual. overt A gushing fragrance, more this year? curious. Fascinating, greenness. into an oddly compelling Marc Hébrart Hébrart Marc
Vallée de la Marne Marc Hébrart Henri Goutorbe Vallée de la Marne // Aÿ
vineyard area // 22 hectares annual production // 10,000 cases villages & soil types // Aÿ Grand Cru, Mareuil sur Aÿ 1er Cru (Cretaceous chalk, limestone) grape varieties // 70% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay, 5% Pinot Meunier
Relatively speaking, these are “mainstream” by grower standards. Henri Goutorbe Vallée de la Marne Vallée
You won’t find old-vines Petit Meslier fermented with you know the family, as they’ve opened the very popular grasshopper antlers in an underground amphora shaped and badly needed Hotel Castel Jeanson in Aÿ, just a like your large intestine. But hey, all you Special-Club few steps from the winery. If you’re a grape-grower in lovin’ somms; Goutorbe is the current president of the Champagne you almost certainly know Goutorbe, as he’s Club. Let’s hope he gets the label situation sorted out. one of the leading vine-nurserymen. When word reached So yes, the wines taste like Champagne “should.” me they would indeed be interested in export, I was But as with any grower, there are quirks and specificities, delighted that no one had grabbed them. and if these are “conservative” they’re by no means I’m also really pleased to find a supplier for Aÿ Pinot fuddy-duddys. When they’re in form, they show a at last. There’s a consensus among fizz-heads that the “top- sensuous generosity and a suave maltiness that typify 5” Grand Crus are Aÿ, Ambonnay, Verzenay, Cramant and Champagne for many drinkers. But they also show an Mesnil, and for me Aÿ has always stood out for its special atypical precision and terroir character that identifies malt and blueberry aromas and overall class. If, as I’ve them as growers. written elsewhere, Ambonnay is Volnay or Chambolle, If you’ve visited the region recently there’s a fair chance then Aÿ is Vosne-Romanée.
Henri Goutorbe at a glance // “Venerable” might be an apposite term for an estate that’s existed for less than 60 years, but Goutorbes are a Grand Family of Champagne, and this domaine embodies the generous and vivacious side of the region. how the wines taste // They are ripe and extravagant; they are seldom mystic or searching, but instead direct and delicious. This doesn’t preclude a great refinement and class! It means they are oh-so-easy to love.
19
KGO-3 KGO-1 KGO-599 KGO-405 KGO-204
.V. N
ené” 1999 j j .V. R N osé Brut, R 20 Henri Goutorbe This is very good and will (with a small amount of ’09), 65% PN and 35% CH. All Aÿ, disgorged 9/2013, 2010-based elegant vein between Pinot. Right on the little Aÿ wonderfully pure are The aromas only get better as the ’10 fleshes out. and sumptuous. Henri Goutorbe “Collection an It’s the appearance of the cork. ago based on disgorgement date but it looked like 4-5 years tell me the They didn’t total sweetheart gorgeous adult Champagne; not gigantically long but a while it lasts, and the initial moments of entirely and intriguingly serious. and truffley, carob-y finish are Henri Goutorbe “Spécial Club” Brut, 2004, 6/750ml jHenri Goutorbe “Spécial Club” Brut, j skip because I may well the purchase defer but don’t still available, Amazing it’s 100% old vines Aÿ, disgorged 10/2013. wait for 2006. while we the ’05, which means a supply-gap over Aÿ of measure full the offering also it’s age with but ’04 of green manic gorgeous the all has It amazing. is wine The injection of vitality and lift; the finish is a minty a real than ever, latest disgorgement is fresher This malt and blueberry. “sweetness.” cereal shimmer until it yields to a wet 75%PN, 25%CH, all Aÿ. Disgorged 10/2013. I offered this two years ago, skipped it last year, and now want you to see to want you and now skipped it last year, ago, this two years 10/2013. I offered all Aÿ. Disgorged 75%PN, 25%CH, malt class and breed, also vintage, but there’s and sternness of the tread tastes like a healthy ’05, with the heavy it again. It outstanding terroir. a thumping solid Champagne from and oyster-mushrooms; Henri Goutorbe Millésime Brut, 2005 Henri Goutorbe Millésime BUT, I recently had a disgorgement from precisely that era, and the bottle was fabulous. So, um??? Returning to “back to “back um??? Returning the bottle was fabulous. So, that era, and precisely a disgorgement from had I recently BUT, this is than every other NV in the portfolio? mature much more notice how do you One, to say. in form,” two things loved why we did show disgorgement, this really it was still concussed from though Two, in any portfolio?) (Probably weight and combines and it deftly signatures, its straw are Malt, mirabelle and sweet the first place. this little bugger in flavors. bright and fresh with flavors “luxurious” This is the superior NV—there’s a “basic” NV that contains fruit from the Aube and Sezannais, and which is improving and which is improving and Sezannais, that contains fruit NV the Aube from a “basic” superior NV—there’s This is the could You 1/2014. and disgorged with 20% 06-05-04, based on 2007 (80%) currently It’s the last fewconsiderably years. that. I want to talk about “back in form,” but say it’s us found objectionable. most of aroma that potato-y on 2006 showed even on 2005 and the wines based seemed It Henri Goutorbe “Cuvée Prestige” Brut, Brut, Prestige” “Cuvée Goutorbe Henri
Vallée de la Marne Henri Goutorbe loveliness, aconsoling sweetness inthefinishthatfroze was onlyaninfinitelytender andmysteriouslycomplex condition. I was out past the galaxy of associations; there vitality ofagreat winefrom agreat vintage,inmiraculous full measure ofpower heroic, andthe thatwasvirtually the beginning of time. It had a 4 octave complexity, a to show me. followed thewineintowhatever dustystarlightitwanted never do. Still, my eyes filled and my voice caught, and I wine wouldentailoutrightsobbing,andthat that I’m infront ofothers, but this scared aboutcrying it, andittookallmystrength nottoweep outloud.Not and thewinewaspoured withdelicateceremony. Isniffed what, me,now? Nicolas saidthecork wasstrong, “perfect,” myself. The manIbrought tothatglasswasinastateof parlor where we tastedmightaswell have been achapel. suitably grave. Mortality, beauty, friendship;thelittle As heeasedthecork from theneckofbottle,Ifelt lastsummer.was open,meandmylittle60thbirthday of hislastfourbottles.Iwashalfintearsbefore thebottle year,know itwasmybirth ifheknew 1953.It wasone visit thewineatall. the cork tastewaswinningtherace.Still, Iwasgratefulto 5-10 minuteswithitbefore we allhadtoagree, sadly, that andwe hadagood some crazyesterizationoffructose, brown-butter, tonka bean, orange zest, maple, melon, were riotousuntilthe TCA subsumedthem; truffle, fresh—further evidenceof TCA—and theinitialaromas which implies Meunier. Yes, maybe. The color was oddly been demi-sec,whichwouldmakeitnon-vintagequality, than thatwe couldnotknow. Nicolas thoughtitmayhave cellar, i.e.moldy. The winewas“from the50s” butmore corked. Old offsmellinglikethe winesometimesstarts after itwaspoured noneofuscouldbesure itwasn’t The cork wasbalkyinthefirstone,andmoments Your handsgetallgoopyifyou holdabottle likethat. when thosebottlesare gone,they’re gone. this?Andthecellar,who amItodeserve afterall,isfinite: icolas sayshedoesn’t many peoplewho have very plunder thecellar. That makesmefeelbashful.Imean, love oldwines,sowhenwe visitit’s to anopportunity That’s easytodothere. Nicolas Chiquet,whoisamongmyfavorite people,andIknewI’d getlostinthewines. it wasacrisis-timeatthecompany, soIwasdistractedandjangly. But atleastwe’d bewith It wasaquietSunday andwe’d justdriven from Germany. My hotel’s wifiwasbalkyand Drinking the'53atGastonChiquet I I N T N t smelled like every weeping butteredt smelledlikeevery nutsince t wasadifficulttime,andIlongwayfrom wo wormy old bottles arrived, coated in cellar fuzz. icolas knew what the next wine icolas was, knew but I don’t I beartoleave thisworld? This world. that question.It well how very knew Ireally felt:How can I guesseventually.” But thiswinewouldn’t letmesplit ready fordeath?”andI’d say“For sure nottomorrow, but you ready todie?”andI’ll sayfuckno,butask“Are you “ready” fordeath.Imeaninanabstractway. Askme“Are penumbra alwaysaround beauty, Iaskedmyselfiffelt drinking awineprecisely asoldIwas,aware ofthedark ofthosethoughtsin. few You can’t helpit.Sitting there, on questionsofdeath.But sixty, you know, you leta me, I’m notespeciallylugubriousandI’m notfixated dancing thinginmyglasswasaheraldoftime. can’t ignore themnow. There’s notenoughtime.Andthis that ayoung manfeelshecansafelyignore. Iknow I time atmywellsprings, thetaproots andfountainheads my sources ofjoy, allofthemaskingmetospendmore to bealittlemore gentle,andIfeelpowerful shiftsamong changesinthebody,passion. Idofeelcertain askingme don’t feel“60,”whatever thatis,andIfeelnodilutionof to “turning sixty” becauseIdon’t know whatitmeans.I what Iheard wasunquiet.Ihaven’t given muchcredence murmurings inthewine,andsilencewasabalm.But souls coatedinsilk,expandinginfinitely. There were tonotforgetthis.It’sme, try hard, Iknow, buttry. that sweet sadmessageofthebeautyworld,telling withecstasyandregret,my heart assuchthingsalwaysdo, note,” somebodysaid,asIwrote andwrote. been quietforalongtime. “Wow, that’s some tasting I tookanotherlost sip of wine. Imusthave otherwise. the strangecritterswholive there. They getobstreperous wander down there now andagaindoacensusof all wine likethiscanlightuptheinterior, andwe need to never tostop. But Ialsodon’t wanttoforgetthewaya do. beatsoflivingandIwantthem Iwantthoseordinary want anothersingleoneofthosedays.But ofcourseI rapturous gravity oftheseexquisite flavors, Ithinknever when we forget what it actually is we moments of still-framed stunning kindness? The days The r And whatofallthedaysandbetw H ow muchtimedoI have left,Iwondered. Believe oom grew very quiet,fourtasters,stilled,our oom grew very do by living. In the een these 21
Vallée de la Marne '53 Gaston Chiquet that
served.
undergo interesting interesting fruit, more fruit, more
Cru, er always
oir N quite low in dosage, quite low
richness.
sell! Which is lucky for us,
Cru, Hautvillers 1 er They split the difference between
was “correct” and a little bland and bland little a and “correct” was ripest they’re slim and even at their ÿ 1
Vallée de la Marne // Dizy Vallée A were surprised with a bottle and two flutes were
opportunities to drink the Big Fella, but Fella, opportunities to drink the Big They areThey They areclassical, not romantic. our room when we checked into a hotel we checked into a hotel we when we our room and I felt sad that it represented “Champagne” “Champagne” and I felt sad that it represented
bottle.... Curiosity got the better of me, and we opened got the better of me, and we Curiosity style they have in common. Mind you, I don’t I don’t you, common. Mind in have they style
practices are another story, but the wine held up another story, practices are
certain scrupulousness. The parent company’s company’s The parent certain scrupulousness. Of course it was the Brut Imperial, and it was a Imperial, course it was the Brut Of
Champagne anteuil la Forêt (chalk and clay)
was at Chiquet less than a week later and played later week a than Chiquet less was at N ve sometimes heard myself say that Chiquet’s myself say that Chiquet’s sometimes heard ve much worse. I felt it was an industrial wine made much worse. I felt it was an industrial many unwary people, who probably don’t think they many unwary don’t people, who probably be. There’s a There’s be. should & Chandon’s is what Moët
I’ I volume that’s churned out, this wine might have out, this wine might have churned that’s volume Champagne and wonder why it costs so much. Yet at Yet much. Champagne and wonder why it costs so same time I felt considerable admiration; considering same time I felt considerable admiration;
oët back in my head when Nicolas’ NV was oët back in my head when Nicolas’
malolactic, but the Champagnes are M more character in everyChiquet has more way, diction, just more clearer interplay of flavors, and tasty. to so like the the business its end. European this Pinot Noir town. Their base wines base Their town. Noir Pinot this caramelly a suave they have yet NV walnutty clamor for one time we waiting in frequent. The it. been with a featureless, overtly fruity ones.
ÿ Grand Cru, Mareuil sur ÿ Grand Cru, Mareuil A hectares. hectares. probably probably
45% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Meunier, 20% Pinot 35% Pinot Meunier, 45% Chardonnay, is Champagne
Mareuil-sur- emerge from emerge from
well. I am struck I am well.
wines are. I usually wines are.
Crugny, Crugny, Cru (belemnite chalk); get the attention some terroir in Chiquet. Chiquet. in terroir pure wrote they were “quiet “quiet they were wrote
er fruity, but really they are they are but really fruity,
gorgeous, hedonistic wines that everyone can cozy up to.
grape varieties // grape varieties // Dizy 1 vineyard area // 23 hectares area vineyard // 18,300 cases annual production // villages & soil types like their maker!
They taste like the wines of a man who respects his land.
character of place—if you want character of place—if you
an excellent introduction. Chiquet’s Chiquet’s introduction. an excellent
e sensually in the Grande Vallée de la Marne. de la Marne. Vallée in the Grande show well young, thanks to the forward young, well show the wines of the Grande Vallée should Vallée the wines of the Grande
their Marne terroirs. Yet with their balance Yet terroirs. their Marne Brut Tradition, as I’ve seen from several old several seen from as I’ve Tradition, Brut
they can also age extremely well, even the even well, they can also age extremely wines combine a generous depth of fruitwines combine a generous
dating all the way back to 1964.”
yet in a way we’re tasting we’re way in a yet
e sell a lot of Chiquet, though I sense the eter Liem writes: “This is one of the finest
And
This is a large estate as Récoltants go, with 23 W P
tallest they’re willowy. reallythe the and Champagnes mineral adamantly thoughtful but not aloof, 22 They taste focused, refined and friendly. Even at their how the wines taste // They taste focused, refined and friendly. Gaston Chiquet at a glance // 23 hectare estate means we can get some wine to
I drank a glass of the NV while out to dinner recently. And as I did I felt the same as I did I felt And recently. of the NV while out to dinner I drank a glass it so perfectlybecause that wine, feel for I always affection and admiration threads not jumping through fruit. and its forward It’s its silken precision the needle between craftsmanship. just saturated with caring and it’s of terroir, hoops of fire Gaston Chiquet Gaston because these ar
think of them as either chalky or often because they don’t heroes,” what make they which from Aÿ, in and Aÿ Champagne to the only all-Chardonnay
wines generally fruitiness of me as is in some way misunderstood. By chiseled and articulate Nicolas’ how by I and thorough. careful precise, of the others do. in Hautvillers, vineyards Chiquets have examples to know what to know and depth non-vintage grower estates grower with a pronounced feel like, these are Chiquet’s Except for the definite Meunier fruit of the NV, nearly all Meunier fruit of the NV, for the definite Except the Chardonnay even anti-varietal, of the other wines are a dialect and more a Chardonnay Aÿ, which is less from usually hear. don’t of Aÿ we
Vallée de la Marne Gaston Chiquet would be.Even peppery. Not asthe 09buteven more asfruity incisive andclassy. blend. It’s more pungent and scratchy, as one would expect, but what I didn’t expect was how chiseled and delineated it THE NEXTASSEMBLAGE willbe2010-basedwith14% 2004and7%2009;disgorged10/2013,withthesamevarietal ofchalkiness, andacoolhintofwalnuts. brush unfussy essence. You’ll catch the pumpernickel flavor from the Meunier. You’ll notice how silky it is. You’ll feel a fleeting But Idoknow singlethingthere istolove this:theChampagneiscompletelydelicious,every aboutNV Champagneinits something. Basically, thatIdon’t know shitfrom shinola. so I thought. To my delighted surprise, this “fruit-forward” wine was better with the briny bivalves, and it taught me half-bottle ofChampagnetowash’emdown, andtherestaurant wasoutofPéters.I“compromised” withChiquet—or As always,40%Meunier, eastcoastoysters onedayandwanteda 35%CHand25%PN.Ihadaplateofcoppery already using’12. So: Champagnefrom thisgrower. noinfantiletemper tantrum recent elseisdeepinto2011andonegrower’s 7/2013disgorgement. 82%2009,8%08and07.Almosteveryone woozy,tasting norsellingcruelly bitinglyinexpressive wines. This isthesameassemblagewe soldlast year, justamore Something Iadore aboutNicolas isthathereally doescare aboutadjustinghisdisgorgementschedulesso we’re neither Gaston Chiquet“Tradition” Brut, N .V.
KCQ-1 23
Vallée de la Marne Gaston Chiquet
KCQ-8 KCQ-2 KCQ-405 KCQ-407 KCQ-304 KCQ-705M
j ) (
j .V. N
j ÿ Brut, 2005, 3/1.5L ÿ Brut, ÿ Brut, A A
.V. N osé Brut, R 24 Gaston Chiquet 110% but it includes the still that’s 40% PN and 30% CH, and yes all 2010, disgorged 10/2013, 40% Meunier, Now PM is this pretty! boy, 2009. Basically, is a mix of PN/PM and all from the way, by That still red, and I suck at math. red, like sucking on wisteria blossoms. scents of strawberries, chocolate, patisserie, leading to a finish that’s Gaston Chiquet “Spécial Club” Brut, 2007, 6/750ml j Gaston Chiquet “Spécial Club” Brut, so Noir), (Dizy—Pinot and 30% Greboury 59% Cerisier (Dizy—Chardonnay) (Aÿ—Chardonnay), Martin 11% Frère vintner who is athinking and not just proceeding the ’05, which shows from assemblage different see, an entirely as you rote. by detailed and salty and but it’s can be, and needs air, pungent, as ’07s to offer; it’s 9/2013, this is nearly ready Disgorged wine is a potion of this case lightness is a virtue, and this lovely delicious. In the truth—absurdly and to tell you incisive, delicate herbs and mint. white tea and white flowers, Disgorged 07/13, this keeps getting better. It’s 35% Aÿ CH (from “Croix Courcelles”), 40% Hautvillers PN (from PN (from 40% Hautvillers Courcelles”), “Croix 35% Aÿ CH (from It’s 07/13, this keeps getting better. Disgorged a grinning chalky beast, an incisive turning into blend! It’s d’Aÿ and 25% the Blanc our best PN parcel”) “Colombier, two the are Club Gimonnet the This and grapeseed oil. cold-pressed of sense and the torque of ton with a Champagne best ’05s I can recall. Gaston Chiquet “Spécial Club” Brut, 2005, 6/750ml jGaston Chiquet “Spécial Club” Brut, AMONG THE VERY BEST VALUES IN THIS OFFERING. BEST VALUES AMONG THE VERY fantastic Champagne and shows It’s on the cork. it mature so a chance to watch (09/11) as last year, disgorgement Same chervil, thyme, basil oil, burdock, of blueberry, included associations times my notes have various ’04 at its best. At of PN—the blend is 60- expression also a chance to see a vital and different hips, and it’s mizuna, sencha, chalk and rose 40 PN-CH. than the ’04. generous and is more a fine impression which gives VINTAGE, THE 2005 SEE WE’LL YEAR THIS LATER j Gaston Chiquet Millésime Brut, 2004 The mags carry a vintage designation, and this 2005 shows the scallop-y side of that year, even a bit of maitake, and clean a bit of maitake, and even The mags carry of that year, the scallop-y side and this 2005 shows a vintage designation, garni, all into a long rocky stock with bouquet veal for a large-format; barley and and ready round and delicious; quite Disgorged 10/2013 finish. Gaston Chiquet Blanc de Blancs d’ Gaston Chiquet Blanc Disgorged 7/2013, this has come a long way. It’s still adamant and still 100% 2009, but it’s become a fine forceful terroir terroir a fine forceful become but it’s and still 100% 2009, still adamant It’s long way. this has come a 7/2013, Disgorged is fading fast. and its early coarseness and wet-cereal-y, hazlenutty grow As it slims it should statement. Aÿ. I still cradle of PN that is the from 100% Chardonnay have seriously rad to this, it was I introduced in ’97 when Back PN. detached from terroir can see Aÿ You other. any think there’s don’t though a + wine also, was disgorged in 10/2013. It’s will be a 2010 that WINE THIS OF THE NEXT ASSEMBLAGE and filigree mineral and savory, and marjoram, but the palate is hugely sort, sencha very and sorrely; of a different green the vintage is quite the sourpuss tasted to date, and I wonder whether This is the best 2010 I’ve with a super juicy finish. for those of us who it may turn out to be a satisfying vintage 2009 loses flesh, 2010 gains it, and As thought before. I’d flavors. like acupuncture Gaston Chiquet Blanc de Blancs d’ de Blancs Blanc Chiquet Gaston
Vallée de la Marne Gaston Chiquet fruity Champagnes. reflect hisenthusiasm. reflect microclimate Geoffroy ataglance//Redgrapedominatedcuvées fromalocallywarm OK, here’s themanypreviews ofcomingattractions: villages &soiltypes//Cumières 1 annual production //10,400cases vineyard area //14hectares Geoffroy Ampelos Certification//lutteraisonnée grape varieties//41%Pinot sensational. a tiny amountshouldbe offered in 2015, and whichis 2002 vintage redux, disgorgement, from a new which moving Ithinkitwillneed4-5more forward, years. 2005 vintage,whichis…complicated,andwhileit’s releases itbefore the… and halfdoneincasks,ithasfantasticpotential.Ihopehe 2006 vintageisonitswayatsomepoint.70-30PN/CH 2-3 years, if allgoeswell. and tastelikeChampagne,rathergood! We’ll seeitin varieties. It’s the name of the parcel. It’s to smell starting Houtirants is the field blend of all the allowed Champagne
Jean-Baptiste Geoffroy is the most fanatical wine freak IknowinChampagne andhis Jean-Baptiste Geoffroyisthe mostfanaticalwinefreak N oir, 37.5%PinotMeunier, 21.5%Chardonnay
er Cru(calceroussoils,sandstoneandclay) Baptiste (or“JB”aswe know him)addedatwist. the prospect ofafascinatingtastingdosage,butJean- a fast-moving treadmill. One year we were greeted with consummate ourattraction,asitwere. quite seductive, thoughwe’ll needtowaitatleastayear to Coteaux ChampenoiseRouge, 2012Pinot Meunier is time.” Cool,OK;putmedown for“some wine.” 1999 vintage isanamazingmasterpiece,tobesold“some I don’t have anote. 2000 vintage,from whichwe had twocorked bottles,so Arriving atG Vallée //Cumières delaMarne eoffroy issometimeslikestepping onto
create thrilling, vibrant, thrilling,vibrant, create
wines wines 25
Vallée de la Marne René Geoffroy rue.
always
vineyards vineyards
among the
land here; indeed, land here;
Cumières, Hautvillers, Hautvillers, Cumières,
throughout the region. the region. throughout 42% Pinot Noir, 39% Noir, 42% Pinot more; everythingmore; be can
altitudes.
ved into brand newved quarters in street as Deutz and on the same street as and on the same street as Deutz street
excited what this means is that the most excited
which formalizes a set of practices just a baby- practices a set of which formalizes
or what the Germans call “integrated” call “integrated” or what the Germans ear I had the impression JB was also seeing the ear I had the impression of certifiably organic, and enforces the protocols of certifiably the protocols organic, and enforces
the so-called “Lutte Raisonnée” (or “sustainable (or “sustainable Raisonnée” the so-called “Lutte
e’s joined a group called “Ampelos” which called “Ampelos” joined a group e’s o begin with, consider Cumières. This Marne Valley Valley This Marne o begin with, consider Cumières. random inspections.
This y The family has mo H T This place rocks. The winery is constructed so that Jean- This place rocks. has to pump any never Baptiste among the best in And so his estate, already wanted to do. will climb to new the region, step short village is one of the few in Champagne whose usually all exposed to the southeast, and it’s are in 14 hectares own The Geoffroys Damery and Fleury-la-Rivìere, 19% Chardonnay. Meunier, question as one of balance, rather than trying to “force” was any sort of mean to imply there I don’t the wines dry. just talk as We it. him and me, far from debate between colleagues who can be candid. Aÿ, on the same on the same me two suppliers , which gives Goutorbe has the space he needs. also (finally) He gravity. handled by Look, basically do everything guy in Champagne can now he’s practice culture,” viticulture) with red grape It is first to start the harvest. is celebrated still red Geoffroy’s would guess which type of dosage of guess which type would and e were five: my colleagues and me and Peter Liem. my colleagues and me and five: e were o remind you, I know that MCR is easier and I know you, o remind W T W 26 We were almost perfectly aligned in the sense-of-sweetness, were We But of us. to four of the five i.e., sample #4 tasted sweetest it was And though it was my personal favorite, it wasn’t. and it used MCR. in theory, preferred have drier than I’d of three time to modify my hypotheses! Interestingly, So, fact in was this and best, #1 sample liked us of five the the least dry of the range, and was made with traditional is no substitute All of which demonstrates there liqueur. account for for tasting, and rigid philosophies that don’t fatuous and wines are needs of different the different intolerant.
cheaper to work with, and it conveys a heavier sweetness, a heavier sweetness, and it conveys with, cheaper to work still obtain the sense-of-sweetness can use less and so you worryI Languedoc, the is desire. source only the that you Languedoc grape- conventional me that and it troubles must concentrate is going into Champagnes whose and sometimes of want to speak of terroir are producers been able to taste direct when I’ve till now, organics. Up JB So the traditional liqueur. preferred comparisons, I’ve of would line up the wines in order We put me to the test. sweetness perceived was used.
types of dosage: traditional as different as well dosage levels ), liqueur and “MCR” (basically must-concentrated-rectified different e wouldtasteasingleChampagnewithfive voiced and one about which I have the method JB prefers, a certain wariness.
Vallée de la Marne René Geoffroy until Iseehow itdoes over time.) day bottlewas…let’s say“herbal.”(Incidentally, theBlanc deRosé showed aggressively vegetal, andI’m deferringanoffering This bottle’s been open a day, we are and the palate’s opened bottle is told. fruitier A newly more angular, whereas the one- It’s all2011,disgorged10/2013,anditcarries a faintwhiff of“2011”andarathermore prominent impactonthepalate. Geoffroy mon. be true, last disgorgementwas6/2013.Iwrote “wintergreen, andspicebox” verbena, cherry-smoke lastyear, anddemtingsstill It’s growing (relatively!) more sedatewithage,butit’s stillastunning“country” Champagne,thrillinglyunpolished. The Geoffroy Millésime It’s in-the-familyofthisalwaysmasterlycuvée, that represents hugelypromising, andcertainly AMAZINGVALUE. Let medemurfrom givingadetailednote,asitwassurlyfrom disgorgement,and2007needssomebabying inanycase. vinification, lessthanthe’06. side.80%CH,and10%eachPN/PM(that’sDisgorged 1/2014, and decidedlyonthedry afirst),and45%cask Geoffroy “CuvéeVolupté” Brut,2007( and tastingisall! Cumières andacuriousovertone PNfruit ofapples. doctrinaires. BalanceThis willmakefoolsofthedry iseverything, you’d Champagne,withalotofsmoky ever have associatedwithbalanceddry “10 grams;”you justtaste perfectly would be4or6,butitturnedoutto10,sothat’s how we bottledit.” OMFG—bless thisman. You don’t tasteanything Champagne,andthisoneisnot.“Afterdry tastingblendswith2,4,6,8and10gramsofsugar, Iwas sure thebestone It’s disgorgement (12/2013) of the a wine new we had last year. Let me put it to you this way. The 2006 was an extremely but becauseIhave enormousadmirationforthechoicesJBmadeinproducing it. OF THEVINTAGEIf IdidaWINE likelybethisone,notbecauseit’s forChampagneitwouldvery the“best” wine, Geoffroy “Cuvée along withsilkytexture andasurprisingsenseofrefinement. It’s also Meunier atitsmostsoy-shiitake. Champagneintheoffering. It dry maybethemostsheerlydeliciousvery The basisofthiswineisfront-loaded bigflavor 2010. This isstillthesamecuvéewe’ve hadsincelate2013;disgorged9/13,25%CH32%PN,43%PM,35%2009and65% Geoffroy “ R E osé deSaignéeBrut, xpression” Brut, E mpreinte” Brut,2007j E j j xtra Brut,2004,6/750mlj N .V. N
.V.
j )
KRG-604 KRG-807 KRG-207 KRG-11 KRG-9 27
Vallée de la Marne René Geoffroy oir, 4% Chardonnay oir, N Vallée de la Marne // Cuisles Vallée lizy-Violaine, Châtillon-sur-marne lizy-Violaine, O
ed about Moussé’s wines was ed about Moussé’s vineyard area // 5.5 hectares area vineyard // 4,100 cases annual production // Cuisles, Jonquery, villages & soil types (chalk, marl) 16% Pinot 80% Pinot Meunier, grape varieties // do, before I commit to a new do, before e this point, because I find it urgently necessary
What I liked and admir I visited twice and assembled wines both times. I I visited twice and assembled wines S 28 how the wines taste // Classy Meunier beauties; savory and dark-bready sorghum-sweetness of and with the with a certain reserve but also and containment – elegance is the right word. the variety, Our favorite among the Meunier pilgrims in the Marne Valley (and elsewhere), an up-and- Moussé at a glance // Our favorite among the Meunier pilgrims in the Marne Valley the newest member of the Club Tresors. coming young grower who’s
their poise and polish. They were refined, even intelligent even refined, They were their poise and polish. Champagnes go As a rule wines. the Meunier for Meunier ) Les Barres (e.g., Chartogne’s either into deeply earthy areas emphasiz one way of course is fine, but wines are Tasting agency. And I “drunk.” and another way being being “tasted” if the wines a case, my way through need to see, as I work as they seemed at the and attractive as interesting remain at but grows well A wine that shows moment of “tasting.” is too superficial. after the 4th or 5th exposure all tiresome to drink the wines as you taking Rennaissance of the Meunier long been aware o Imadeabeeline.Andallofitwastrue. Ihad in all the terra incognita Marne, in the place way up valley who’d of growers an ad-hoc group Thierry, near Château and wanted to give their old vineyards rediscovered first to got. I went it almost never the respect Meunier liked the people and the wines (and Loriot in Festigny, I think in all especially liked the landscape, the loveliest a case to ship back and drink. of Champagne), and mixed Moussé. Cédric young find to Cuisles, to went then I make one turn You is no simple matter. to Cuisles Getting turn off and then another into a side valley, off the Marne another and then smaller valley, into an even the side valley the way village, one of turn to the quietest most out of in can hear the chickens clucking you those places where so still. the next village, it’s
Several years ago Didier Gimonnet told me there would be a new member of the Club the of member new a be would there me told Gimonnet Didier ago years Several the verySpécial Club who would provide first was then president) (of which he Trésors but below-the-radar still was guy the that added He Meunier. from entirely bottling young and ambitious. man, a super-nice definitely an up-and-comer, Moussé Fils Moussé
Vallée de la Marne Moussé Fils is notintheforeground; it’s notentirely. blanketedby spiceand fruit—but wines, somecaskaging,ambientyeast60% 2011,40%reserve fermentation,andsome 2011flavor—though this Moussé Fils amount isplanned. and salty;solid(positively) earthy. small Awine thatstandsatattention.Again,tastedwithoutdosage,andavery He willrelease thisinJuly; thesampleItasted wasdisgorgedbefore myeyes, stillonthelees.It tastedfirmand generous Moussé Fils“SpécialClub”2009Brut,6/750mlj finish. He’s sogoodatChardonnay fizz, youwishhecouldmake more. apple-skin andgraphiterecalls Avize—maybe it’s from thesoilformerly-known-as-schist. Clean,satisfyinglength onthe All 2010, disgorged 7/2013.Cool and apple-y, than 09,buttheslim spine of has less sheerfruit blossomy and silvery; Moussé FilsBlancdeBlancs“ I’d acceptitasItastedit,it’s sobalancedandsuave, andminuteslongonthefinish. amount.” 95% Meunier; thepre-disgorged samplehadzero dosage,buthisplanforthefinalwineis“It small willhave a very Moussé FilsMillésimeBrut,2009( the cork hasmadeitanawfullytastywine. and likelytoselloutbefore theautumn. (ofcourse,asitwasassistedby moi)andtheextratimeon The dosageisperfect What we’re shippingnow, therefore, isstillthe2009-basedassemblage(50%,with50%08-07-06), disgorged3/2013, age. “Or The former Tradition” isdiscontinued. Please note:there usedtobe butwhatwe non-vintageBruts, TWO have doneistocollapsethemintoone,andgive thatonemore Moussé Fils“ the details.Cédricgrows alittleChardonnay butonlyuses environmental standpoint;getintouchwithusifyou want isindeedimpressive, especiallyfrom winery the new big; thenIcouldn’t gotothevineyards,” hesays. The might be.He shows photosofitonhiswebsite. is inadequatetoexplainingexactlywhatthisrogue-soil schist. Either myFrench ormyknowledge ofgeology used torefer toas“schist” butnow saysisnotprecisely they’re fit,symmetrical,contained. Theydon’t sprawl. together, color-coordinated, alltheflavors “drape” perfectly; and loaded with flavory Meunier charm, but they’re also I meanby it.Put itthisway:theChampagnesare highly but that’s asilly Terry-image andyou maynotknow what something ofhisown. Iwouldcallthatthing“good posture,” to thread theneedlebetween thoseprofiles andtoadd or they’re bombs,butMoussé hedonisticfruit seemsboth The estateis5.5hectar C uisles has20-40cmoftopsoilover whatCédric Something liketwograms, Iasked?“Yes, likethat.” The wineissolidandsophisticated,the firmfaceof Meunier. R N osé “Tradition” Brut, oire R éserve,” Brut, es. “Idon’t wantittobetoo O pale” N N j ) .V. j .V. N
.V. j
put-
everyone wins. everyone French taxlaws. spiritisn’tThe artisan compromised, and more ofthesemicro-negoçes exploitingatechnicalityin tiny “RM”onthelabel,butwe’re goingtoseemore and thang toyou. Yes Iknow you were taughttolookforthe it foraBlanc deBlancs;elseisallnoire everything . you buymore than5%ingrapes. it wouldmakehiman“NM”becausethat’s whatyou are if the world,itwouldseem.Makes sense,right?But perfect needs more wine—we’re nottheonlygreedy sybaritesin double hiscapacity, andhehasthewherewithal, and he neighbor. This wouldbeinCuisles alone.He could grew, from vineyards that“technically” belongtosaid them forafee.He thenbuysthegrapes,thathe himself he takesvineyards belongingtoaneighbor, andworks interestingrun past you. ramificationsIwantto Basically, This isirr Cedric discussedane elevant tomeanditshouldalsobeno w production modelwith KMS-609 KMS-509 KMS-3 KMS-4 KMS-2 29
Vallée de la Marne Moussé Fils
Billiot bottle will
enness over the last 3-4 enness over malolactic fermentation. eims // Ambonnay Fresh, bracing red-grape
R of fruit. Her wines have marvelous
and nil if you hold the wines six months after
Montagne de Montagne That would explain the unev years he may not have noticed when they didn’t work, work, didn’t noticed when they he may not have years taste.” really because he often didn’t years, I said, and she agreed. She added that the “Cuvée added that the “Cuvée She I said, and she agreed. years, oir, 25% Chardonnay oir, N mbonnay Grand Cru (limestone) mbonnay Grand Cru A not sloppy. Too firm to be sloppy! and impeccable Too not sloppy. most of all, as she can presume upon lavish and deep fruit flavors.
reductive when they’re first disgorged, and occasionally a
mid-palate flavors. Just 5 hectares in size, so availabilities are scarce!
vineyard area // 5 hectares area vineyard // 3,750 cases annual production // villages & soil types 75% Pinot grape varieties // the wines of Egly-Ouriet (Billiot’s friend and neighbor) they couldn’t be more different. Egly pulls friend and neighbor) they couldn’t the wines of Egly-Ouriet (Billiot’s
S show a slightly metallic aroma for the first few minutes. That’s rare show a slightly metallic aroma for the first few minutes. That’s disgorgement. Billiot seems to want liveliness If you know you down into its mealy-ripe depths; Billiot lifts you up on a billowing fountain stamina and brightness. They’re hedonistic but 30 Henri Billiot at a glance // 100% Grand Cru, particularly satisfying Pinot Noir here. how the wines taste // Billiots are not filtered and they never undergo say, let’s have, may he and first, at retirement uneasy an Ihadthesensehiswas now. erge hasfullyretired father had his formulas, and they A little. “My hovered. in his later said Laetitia. “But almost always worked,” Generational transfers can be tricky. Laetitia and her husband really have control of control have really Laetitia and her husband be tricky. transfers can Generational the domaine. That makes them very frisky and Henri Billiot Henri Champagnes with long, swollen
Montagne de Reims Henri Billiot will love thiswineoodlesandscads. lot likemodern White Burgundy. Patience willalsoberewarded astheoakissubsumed.Persons lesspersnicketythanI way back with future cuvées) at least for those of us for whom anything more than a little oak is too much. It’s actually a Still 2006,disgorged12/2013;itshows alittlelessclunkyoak (andtheyagree thiswinegottoooaky, andthey’re throttling Henri Billiot“CuvéeJulie”Brut, Must revisit. than the NV. This was a bit more hazy, not literally, but its flavors were obscured by the 11-thing and fresh disgorgement. The sameassemblageastheNV, with9%stillAmbonnayPN.Alsodisgorged 1/2014thoughacoupleweeks earlier Henri Billiot they’re tastingandthinkinginsteadofmerely adaptingtowhatever’s trendy atthemoment. it. Laetitia isexploringreducing thedosageintheirwines,andIagree thiswouldbewelcome provided thewinescanhandle aromas are likeanessenceofAmbonnay. smoky, good,quitenoirbutfresh; enveloping, meatyandvery luxuriousyet bracingas’07softenare. The empty-glass nights ago. That wineispure vintageBilliot, thoughthecommercial bottlesare more recently disgorged—12/2013.It’s The “plus” wasgiven tothesampleItastedinAmbonnay, butI’d remove theparentheses from thebottleIdrankfour Henri BilliotMillésime2007Brut( Still itfeltlikewelcoming anoldfriendhome. wine ishaleandclearbackfrom whatever afflictedit,butthedayIwasthere itwasstillstungfrom disgorgement. 50% 2011and10-09,disgorged1/2014,nomalo(asalways).Fresh aromas nearlyobscure the2011character. The Henri BilliotBrut But Istillown oldbottlesofLaetitia, andsheafter who sawitspear-droppy notesasexotic. Andwhynot? many drinkersandalsoby knowledgeable reviewers, called “flaw” in Cuvée Laetitiawasactuallyenjoyed by in thelargetank. single largeroneatpoint,andthere wasindeedaflaw used tobeanumberofsmalltanks,butwasshiftedinto that there was one dud in the solera. It turns out Laetitia and nottohave theappletaste.”Ishared mythought Laetitia” wasintheprocess ofbeingchanged,“to befresher If you don’t Avintagelike2007emphasizes thistendency. winecantastetart. domaloatoo-dry But Iapplaudthem; O f course what’s curious about all thisis,the so- R osé Brut, R éserve, N .V. N
.V.
N .V. j )
floor, 20 of strange oflate. classic ofgrower-Champagne, thathadbecome perhaps whom it is named concurred when I said it was a Billiot’s The earthy, de to be
Reims. (Bouzy, incontrast,isdarker butmore
Ambonnay isP
Ambonnay signature mightbestrawberry, forest-
sweet-100s. Allofwhichare present certainly in
the sweetest, most Volnay-like intheMontagne them
while Aÿisfirmerwithless berriedfruit). overt wines. Chardonnay. Ambonnay Pinot Noir seems inot land;350hectares andonly KBA-207 KBA-6 KBA-4 KBA-1 31
Montagne de Reims Henri Billiot eims // Verzenay R powerful, grippingly intense Pinot
oir, 20% Chardonnay oir, Montagne de Montagne N
ow. I ow. and a
just froth over over just froth
vineyard area // 4.5 hectares area vineyard // 1,700 cases annual production Grand Cru (limestone) // Verzenay villages & soil types 80% Pinot grape varieties // very fewChampagnes
rand Cru Verzenay. rand Cru donnay, as you’d expect in these parts.these in expect you’d as donnay, the blackest grapes in all Champagne... terroir expression. I am always secretly secretly am always I expression. terroir
and virile. As a Pinot village, Verzenay is Verzenay village, and virile. As a Pinot ’s vineyards are spread between between spread are vineyards ’s or otherwise, out “Lallement: to Lallement he boomed but when he got
Juhlin accords it special praise, saying “The accords Juhlin Char
Burgundy it’d be Nuits-St.-Georges, animal be Nuits-St.-Georges, it’d Burgundy Champagnes. Tiny producer, only four wines, but WHAT WINES! only four wines, but WHAT producer, Champagnes. Tiny and Verzy both Grand Cru. It’s 80%/20%, Cru. It’s both Grand Verzy and the genuine star of the Montagne de Reims... the genuine star of the Montagne
twenty different parcels, about half of which are about half of which are parcels, different twenty inimitable and yummy.
who wants to make gracious or delicate wines.
yeasts. This tiny little winery, producing all of producing This tiny little winery, yeasts.
well he did, and I can see why they appeal to he did, and I can well and iron notes... persistently long and hard for notes... persistently long and hard and iron
years before it settles down to utter perfection.” it settles down before years cases, is showing how things should be done. how cases, is showing than 40 years. Yes to malolactic. Yes than 40 years. Champagnes. There goes the secret. If you want me you If goes the secret. There Champagnes. tarting with his 2004s the wines aren’t filtered filtered tarting aren’t with his 2004s the wines
t’s a singular flavor and Lallement’s virile style and Lallement’s a singular flavor t’s ust four wines—but what wines! Original, Original, ust four wines—but what wines!
cold-stabilized, and they are fermented with are and they cold-stabilized,
Lallement I had hoped at one point to see the estate gr Let's talk about this G I J S As -type
Noir 32 There are There Lallement at a glance // Grand Cru village in the Montagne de Reims making
Pinot Noir/ Pinot grapes to a négoce was was told that a contract to deliver many older exemplifies it. This doesn’t seem the terroir for seem the terroir This doesn’t it. exemplifies someone village produces rich, peppery definitely Verzenay and sauvage. pepper Lallement and I’ll donate my organs to your family. donate my organs to your Lallement and I’ll it were If
delighted when Lallement’s your favorite among favorite your delighted when Lallement’s these complex, or ambient 1700 to totally approve of your gnarly hippitude, of your to totally approve crystalline texture. All of which these Champagnes display. crystalline Champagnes display. All of which these texture. what As do many others. But these virtues together with strikingly singular display are and distinctive focus him, as he lays high emphasis on precision,
Michel Bettane was flipping through this catalogue and issuing various mutters of various mutters and issuing this catalogue flipping through Bettane was Michel approval them!” I discovered Jean Lallement Jean
Montagne de Reims Jean Lallement (Psst! The 2008 vintageispromised forthisOctober. Lockitinnow but these’10sare really pixilated,atleastinthishouse. totype,duckbreastoff butitbecametrue androse hips;thetexture iscrisperandmore phenolicthan inripervintages, both Is asthisis,ithas there amore butnotthemint,andasdry singularRosé inallChampagne?Aubryhastheblackberry Jean Lallement I shall,however impatiently.) (NOTE: we’re stillawaitingthenextvintage,2008.He’s innogreat torelease hurry it,andI’m barely willingtowait.But wait as itgetsallcaramelized, likethe“candy” ofthebrown bitsyou scrapefrom thepan. another year onthecork; thefinishisn’t quiteassuave, barkier andcrustier, more saltandatfirstmore brash. Thenwatch signatures here are berries,orchids, violets;thisoneisseriously smokyandavery It reverses thevintagesofabove, soit’s 80-20’09-’10.Different parcels gointoit,givingstronger juice,andthe was THEBEST VALUE IN THE PORTFOLIO. It isagain.It probably alwayswillbe. The bluelabel,andour“Old Blue” isagoodol’ dawg. Thank you foryour response tomystatementoflastyear thatthis to perfection. a stellarChampagne.It’s themostmineraleditionI’ve tasted,andwithtimeonthecork itcouldcometinglinglyclose I’m this is thebestedition of this wine certain Jean Lallement“ just absurd, oneofthetreasures ofthewineworld. chalkier thanusual,andIhadthesensethere wasmore Verzy showing through. But really, beingis crystalline thissilvery It’s thesamecuvéeaslastyear, justmore recently disgorged—November 2012infact.If anythingitshowed leesierand always, 80-20PN/CH. and lacy, likethosecloseuppictures ofsnowflakes. So gossamer yet solong,itseemsclassierwitheachpassing year. As Now 80%2010,20%2009,disgorged9/2013. With ’10inthemixit’s butman,isthischiseledandfiligree more silvery Jean LallementBrut, It’s notlike there’s asoftmarket for Verzenay Pinot Noir. either calltheirblufforjustsellyour grapesanyoldwhere. wired inthem.Still, itwouldseemtobechild’s playto —one ofthegoodguys.But ofbehaviorishard- thissort just keepallyour grapes.” like apunk.“If we can’t have thosegrapesthenyou can the negoçedidwhatthey’re trainedtodo,andleveraged It wasabout15%ofwhatheselling theBig Boy. But reclaim justtwoparcels forhisown production. Just two! expiring. But here’s whathappened. Jean-Luc wantedto And thisisoneofthe gras andoyster shell,plusgreen teaand flowers. It’s all2010now, disgorged6/2013,hadsome reduction toshrug R R osé Brut, éserve” Brut, N .V.j j négoce we actuallyapprove of N .V.
N
j j .V. j j ever, and along with Varnier’s Cuvée Saint Denis it’s a ludicrous value for ( j )
from you asitis.” This seemedtoregister. wine, I’ll buyit. We cannever get enoughChampagne and are concernedthere’s no onetobuyalltheadditional “Jean-Luc,” Isaid,“If you keptyour entire production, huh?” But there wasonethingIcoulddo,anddidit. to phrase the question that didn’t amount to “No juevos, But Ididn’t feelitwasmyplacetoask. There wasnoway flow andqualityoflife. Still, Ihatetoletthebullywin. and equipment,nottomentionaradicalchangeincash- another 800caseswouldentailalargeinvestment inspace ) O f coursethere’s more toitthanthat. To vinify strong editionofthiswine.It wants KL KL KL T-3 T-2 T-1 33
Montagne de Reims Jean Lallement
Champagne is actually Champagne is actually eims // Verzenay R parcels; there’s some talk some talk there’s parcels;
Chardonnay from three parcels in in parcels three from Chardonnay
e quite different from Lallement’s Lallement’s from e quite different Cru (limestone); es from which es from er e has 9 hectares of which 6 are Grand Cru; the Grand are 6 which of 9 hectares has e Montagne de Montagne is Chardonnay in Villers-Marmery (home of our Villers-Marmery in is Chardonnay H Sillery – and Mesnil!
and fleshy, and correspondingly less sleek and and correspondingly and fleshy, remarkably ecumenical group: Verzy, Verzenay, Verzenay, Verzy, ecumenical group: remarkably
all, Verzenay. But Pehu’s wines are rather more rather more wines are Pehu’s But Verzenay. all,
Arnaud Margaine), but which he sells off – he wants but which he sells off – he Arnaud Margaine),
The six hectar The wines ar bottle only Grand Cru Champagne. His vineyards vineyards Cru Champagne. His bottle only Grand every way except basic essential flavor. Verzenay is, every basic essential flavor. way except
to divided into 39 bottled are Villers-Marmery. in after glossy filigree. balance hero a are Mailly, a still of producing oir, 22% Chardonnay oir, N
ger Grand Cru (Cretaceous chalk) O hard to take a second hard
Le Mesnil-sur- 78% Pinot grape varieties // vineyard area // 9 hectares area vineyard // 4,000 cases annual production Grand Cru, Grand Cru, Sillery Grand Cru, Verzy // Verzenay villages & soil types 1 Grand Cru, Villers-Marmery Mailly-Champagne o David Pehu is a man on the move. In In is a man on the move. Pehu o David redundant instead of something new. redundant
ut not really, as you will see. as you ut not really, was stoked to have discovered this man and his wines.his and man this discovered have to stoked was I B And our her
supplier in Verzenay, first because of the diplomacies Verzenay, supplier in and second because the portfolio space is taken upinvolved with something
was The Chartognes led me to him. It a couple years he promises an organic single parcel PN parcel an organic single he promises a couple years He be interesting. which should (Les Poules), Mailly from each from also plans to bottle a trilogy of Chardonnays, and Mesnil. Verzenay Villers-Marmery, single communes: Noirs Pinot Alongside these will be mono-commune who doesn’t this is a grower So Verzenay. and Mailly from he wants it to show. just talk about terroir; 34
The label, I’m told, is going to change. Good news. And David Pehu seems to want to Pehu David news. And is going to change. Good told, The label, I’m Verzenay wines, wine into 3-4 parcel-specific Verzenay deconstruct, for example, one always fascinates me. which is the kind of thing that Pehu-Simonet
Montagne de Reims Pehu-Simonet case Iwanttobuyussometimeseewhere this“thing” goes.If we offeritlaterintheyear it’ll bebecauseitcleaneditselfup. NOTE: there’s thingtoshed–ornotshed.In aRosé 100%2011,disgorged1/2014,thathassomeofcelery-broccoli any my reservations. Champagne hasadourcast,even withallotheraspectsinplace,especially length.Iwon’t blockitfrom you, butIhave of ’06,butImustsaywonderwhyit’s sodry. Maybe it’s aticofmine, andmaybeyou’ll thinkit’s butthe perfect, 50% PN Verzenay, 50%Chard from Mesnil and Verzenay, disgorged12/2013.It’s fullofcharacterandthestockiness Pehu-Simonet Millésime character. Disgorged 10/2013. at aseminarlastyear’s IPNCandtastersallagreed, it’s astatementofPinot Noir withsurprisingexpressiveness and Champagne, atleastifyou toward canbeseducedby peoplewhosebodytyperuns quirky smart “fleshy.” Iusedthiswine As alwaysfrom twoclimatsin Verzenay—Pertois andNoues. 60%incask,all 2009,it’s aseductive andsumptuous Pehu-Simonet Blancde searandcharmarks here crusty smokedporkapplewood chopwithaperfect andthere. ofwine,itwouldhave a5-o-clockshadow angularform;ahuskysort a PNstatementinanearthy at2-o-clock.Likean Partial malo,andnotonpurpose!It’s all09,70-30PN/CH,disgorged10/2013,dosageteensy, all Vernenay andasalways Pehu-Simonet “Transparence” charms offarmerfizz. Champagne islavish,glossy, witharomas ofplumblossom;it’s whatI’d call“swank” andyet ithasalltheangularwonky 70% 2011and30%a“solera” goingbackto2005.Disgorged 12/2013,70-30PN/CH,withall CHfrom Verzenay; the Pehu-Simonet “Selection”Brut, langoustine andchalklikeamadman,withclassicsaffron andbrioche. the wineissensational,showing thearoma ofhillsideMesnil; satsumas,fennelpollen,musselsand thepalateiswonderful, All 2009,allMesnil, allstainlesssteel, no malo,disgorged9/2013,theonly100%Mesnil IofferattheNVlevel—and Pehu-Simonet BlancdeBlancsBrut, N E oirs Brut, xtra Brut,2006 E N xtra Brut .V. j N N .V. .V. j
KPS-406 KPS-6 KPS-5 KPS-1 KPS-2 35
Montagne de Reims Pehu-Simonet almost
near Blanc de Blancs giving
e bigger bodied than wines of wines than bodied bigger e and less floweryWe shall style. eims // Villers-Marmery
R they’r
oir N Cru (clay-limestone) er e experimented with cover-cropping in his vineyards. in his vineyards. e experimented with cover-cropping H Montagne de Montagne and of course this translates eventually into Champagnes and of course this translates eventually when you as phenolic, especially that the palate can “read” the old know You rush-taste a bunch of them. through will These boys about Champagne with oily food? trope me. tongue, believe sandblast any goop off your Plus seemed to be favorable. and the results trendy, It’s a chance to say a fashionable thing. But a grower it gives be some of the most hauntingly beautiful and original Champagnes
Champagnes in this portfolio. 90% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot 90% Chardonnay, grape varieties // vineyard area // 6.2 hectares area vineyard // 4,600 cases annual production 1 // Villers-Marmery villages & soil types
and to my mind they’re just about as prettyDamn, they could as Chardonnay can be.
. Margaine
B the Côte des Blancs, be Riesling! Recent developments seem to suggest a transition to a more “serious” These can village for Chardonnay. a 95% see! It’s 36 A. Margaine at a glance // An island of Chardonnay in a sea of Pinot Noir creates fruitiness; tropical and minerality own their have how the wines taste // They thoughtful, exceptionally though I myself would say he’s that temperament. “humble,” Arnaud as describing accurate rad was naturally from and humility follows and focused, not especially careful wines, also, are His gushing. A curious facet of a visit to this domain is how made me The ’13 Chardonnays Clairs are. Vins good the after even Yet think of ’99s: very still classical. yet seductive range, 3.15 to 3.1 the in pH, very low showed they malo you’ll ever drink.
The redoubtable Brad Baker wrote a very reportMargaine in issue 17 of his wrote on Baker Brad flattering The redoubtable researched. is exceptionally well detail, and goes into great e-zine. It Warrior Champagne it. to read www.champagnewarrior.com/ChampagneWarriorIssue17.pdf Visit A the most simply delicious
Montagne de Reims A. Margaine lot of the Veuve Clicquotsignsinthevineyards; theyown a and decidefor yourself. though thehighersweetness (33g/l)obscures italittle.I repeat Iamfinicky aboutthesecattyflavors, and youshouldtaste As always this is the same base-wine as the NV Brut, which shows respect and integrity. It has some of the ’11 veggies A zippy ’07needsit.Digital hi-deftexture, racy, kirschandflint;highlysnappybutnot atalltart. No malo—brave man!34%incask,twoparcels, Brocot andBasleuri. The caskshowsfineeffecthere, andthe tovery A It’s from three parcels, Brocot, Montmedy andChampsd’Enfer. 25%incask. suspect it’ll bepowerful andbrooding before enteringahalematurity. last disgorgement(asoftenhappenswithsuccessive disgorgements),anditsravishingearlyphaseisdrawingtoaclose.I (11/2013)disgorgementsmellssensational,andthepalateispenetratingstrong.This new It’s atinybitdrierthanthe Taste thisnexttoHébrart’s 2008 Club, andseethedramatic significanceoftexture. floats, Hébrart Margaineadheres. A chalkyChampagneIknow.on formitisaboutthemostwistful,exquisitely white-flowerycrushed of ’11butlet’s allowrecent disgorgement,andwatchwhathappenswithtimeonthecork. forthevery When thiswine’s ’08, 12%’06and4%’02.It’s 92-8CH/PN,disgorged1/2014.ClassicMargaine aromas; thepalateshows thecattiness As alwaystheassemblageishighlyintricate,markedly soforasmallish grower. Ready? 48%2011,20%’10,12%’09,4% A salty-cheesy stuff. Maybe sauce. fish&chipsif you goeasyonthetartar thingIcannever do… The very and chalky, likefresh fishchowder madewithstarchy pastawater;lessmintthanginger, itneedsfood,butnottheusual Malo here, half-and-halfcask-tank, all 2010,disgorged1/2014,andofcourse,tres sec. The fragranceismarkedly talc-y A style any of is part our topcoats compulsively delightfully wines he’s in itsred 90% ofgrowers inGermany. like Riesling it would have been guessed as Riesling by It winewe wasdelicious!Anda2002reserve triedwasso be offered alongsidehis regular Rosé in about three years. whenever sacred Truths are asserted. in stone; it’s just one guy’s experience. To be considered, reduction flavors inthewines. Equilibrium issince restored. nitrogen andpotassiuminputsintothevines,leadingto it didn’t work. The firstfew yearshetriedit,itdepleted . Margaine“CuvéeLeBrut”Brut, . MargaineBlancdeBlancs . Margaine“CuvéeTraditionelle” Demi-Sec, . Margaine“SpécialClub”Brut,2007,3/1.5L( . Margaine“SpécialClub”Brut,2008,6/750mlj D Arnaud br Arnaud hasalsoexperimentedwitha I wouldnev
riving around Villers-Marmery you noticeall vineyards here. AndIimaginethisChardonnay
more—for theseare uniqueChardonnays. Yet I
their “style”—if indeedthishouseeven hasa
form forustotaste,show thekindsof
ridiculous; itreeked ofstrawberry, andwas
blending intohisRosé. This winewas
and basically, you know, vandalize ourhost. tasty. We wantedtosneakthebottleunder ought outsome2007Pinot Noir er claimthisisasacred Truth engraved E xtra Brut, N saignée Rosé, to .V.
N .V.
N .V. ( j )
( j particular cloneofChardonnayparticular planted so Iopine. There’s evidentlyquitesome topsoil). Yet Noir, Chardonnay becauseitseastward chat about Villers (anditsneighbor and expandstherangeofpossibilitiesfor Margaine. The villageexpresses faceof anew and ithadthatflavor, thoughwithouttheclass Now we have happened to accident. then chalk de Can but thought to Champagnessuchasthese. I thinkyou’d have tohave aschoolmarmish spring frosts, towhich j )
)
Reims, anislandofChardonnay inaseaofPinot
I tastedanothergr V regret. Why doanythingto diminishthesingular? there ever betoomuchdistinctiveness intheworld?
illers-Marmery isananomalyintheMontagneillers-Marmery you mightsay. You have ameteroftopsoil,
of thewinesbeingblendedawayandfeltnothing
Around the turn of the century onegrowerAround theturnofcentury
(in theCôtedesBlancs it’s just10cmof
try itandlo,wasgood.Others followed.try
Chardonnay evidentlycame to Villers by something unusualandactuallygorgeous.
the Chardonnay isprone. ower’s winefrom Villers-Marmery
In factthere’s somechit-
exposition guards against
T répail) being ideal for répail) beingidealfor
in thesevineyards.
debate about the debate aboutthe Champagne. Or Champagne. Or
palate to object palate toobject
Chardonnay KAM-407M KAM-408 KAM-5 KAM-1 KAM-7
37 of of
Montagne de Reims A. Margaine ilmart, Laurent Laurent business V
one of the of one than Vilmart, Vilmart, than but
Laurent’s father’s father’s Laurent’s and Burgundian about them that
though the flavors
myself say that no
bottle age these can
already remarkable, have have remarkable, already
getting into the silly
beautiful.
things have ramified for ramified things have eims // Rilly-la-Montagne R oir N we had to solve by grasping at it with our grasping by had to solve we the emotions can’t help but engage. There There help but engage. the emotions can’t
wines. There is a gleam There wines. the word “delicious” in most published “delicious” the word pre-clonal Chardonnay vines. “These grapes “best” grower is, I’ll let is, I’ll grower “best” necessarily beautiful. Some of the wines of the wines necessarily beautiful. Some
(calcerous clay and limestone) Cru (calcerous clay and
wines exciting wines and even of impressive
Alternately, when we respond spontaneously respond when we Alternately, er
e is a larger existential meaning to a larger e is can’t really say why. It might be similar to the It say why. really can’t
is a word we seldom hear in wine- we eautiful is a word eter Liem writes: “Vilmart is not only one of & Cie. P Ther B accidental. And without and the way these
of who the become almost uniformly speak. I absence of a as if it were wine seem to approach We tasting notes. sudoko puzzle intellects. and sensually, that aren’t crazy-good 2004 vintage. But they offer the flavor of they offer the flavor crazy-good 2004 vintage. But of of belonging, the silent harbor homecoming, the flavor never animated they’re when they’re And even welcome. to be coquettish or seductive flirtatious, because in order already wines Laurent’s And arch. be to have also you loving. They are accept you. Champagne, in grower-estates greatest the region.” of any type in the finest champagne producers of having to do with the circumstances life and for his isn’t significant in Champagne is more grower wines, which were that the and plenty are Montagne de Montagne Champagne or “the poor man’s Krug.” Vilmart’s wines Vilmart’s Krug.” man’s poor or “the Champagne in
illy la Montagne 1
R Laurent. “And they have an incredible Muscat aroma.” And Laurent, like
of complexity. Even at ground-level they’ve got lots of flavor, as ground-level they’ve got lots of flavor, Even at of complexity.
60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot 60% Chardonnay, grape varieties // // lutte raisonnée Ampelos Certification vineyard area // 11 hectares area vineyard // 9,000 cases annual production // villages & soil types has a wife who says he’s “a maniac for his vineyards.” has a wife who says he’s
e at Vilmart, I find I have a feeling of I have I find Vilmart, e at ou read this we will have been working for working been will have this we ou read
They’regrower best the described as often e were four people, standing shoulder to shoulder four people, standing shoulder to shoulder e were t’s not that the wines are always calm and serene. always calm and serene. not that the wines are t’s offer a resonance and majesty unique among small estates. I As I arriv When y
W
flavors.
Sometimes they’re frisky and even hyper—like the frisky and even they’re Sometimes
anticipation and pleasure similar to the feeling of arriving anticipation and pleasure only will the wines be beautiful, but I’ll Not at Dönnhoff. wines have Champs’ Laurent air. my own be breathing the lit-from- of making-it-look-easy, the level reached of that lapidarywithin-ness and serenity style so few wines I feel at home here. have. a few months with Laura Williamson, M.S. and I know M.S. and I know Williamson, a few months with Laura little I did a and Laura fruitfulbe will it joyous. and just to talk in meta-terms in Roslindale, up here “retreat” thing I do, and to toast our new about this ever-strange 2001 Vilmart’s of comradely bonds I opened a bottle that Champagne. And do I love Boy Coeur du Cuvée. its energy again by delighted I was drinking it with Laura me, that sense of beauty always moves It and luminosity. to ordained effort, as though it were with no apparent been just—like—that. have across a small table, and as the wines proceeded I felt I felt as the wines proceeded a small table, and across the kind that the room, a kind of intimacy settle over someone. Perhaps hiding from feel when they’re children the quotidian world outside, hiding from were we in gratitude and old wine, enveloped drinking a friend’s happiness. can every great producer, 38 At best, Vilmart’s wines are grandiose and resplendent. With sufficient how the wines taste // At best, Vilmart’s Wood-aged base wines give these Champagnes distinctly mealy & Cie at a glance // Wood-aged Vilmart take you up and up into rare altitudes were stated in BOLD CAPS. A further key to quality is the large proportion of are yellower than those from clonal vines,” says
At one point we stood in Laurent’s new treasure-room in the cellar, tasting a few wines a few tasting cellar, the in treasure-room new Laurent’s in stood we point one At But wines, to satisfy my curiosity. select. I wanted to taste unremarkable let us he’d known. ought to have as I remarkable, that isn’t Vilmart nothing at there’s Vilmart & Cie Vilmart
Montagne de Reims Vilmart & Cie gaudy and of like you are. You hardly feelyou wonderful. You feelactuallypretty wine in your glass is a psalm. Everything absent, thegrindingbackground buzz of just silence. a certain You noticetheever-present year, Ifeltasbeautyoftenmakesmefeel,thepresence “know”—won’t atallbeuseful. find yourself its beauty, if you ofmereof significance by virtue power. Ipromise you, profundity, that certain
unassailable consequence, amust-have foranyone I When Ir t’s cleartome Vilmart isaChampagneestate
vowed thinkingaboutwineintermsof tostart
even forjust aday(ortohumorme),you’d profundity,and Imeantrue notjusttheaffect
lurid. Beauty seemslikeaprerequisite for
eached theendoftastingwithLaurent tasters describeas“hedonistic” are merely starting over.starting Most ofwhatyou know—or
have tospeak.
dopey, meltingaway
ev eryone says is eryone
coping. The
thrum is thrum
this
of estate a pursuit of remarkable point anymore. Organic viticulture, low (truly!) yields, powerful interested parched, andthewaterwill alwaysbecleanandcold. becomes awell you candrinkfrom whenyou’re feeling if you candothis,you’ll have astayagainst burnout.It Other thanbeingadecenthabitofliving, you’ll findthat that, we bringmore ofourselves tothelipofglass. singlewine,andwhenwe remembermeanings orbitevery and cultureremember and that feelings and history to know thatyou tooare abletopausejustenough I get that. But I in turn need to know something. I need to know whatever maybedecisive foryou to buyornot. I’ ve written alothere, andIrespect that you need
gemstone gleamingamongthechalk.
and gracefulofallwines.Casksare hardly the
a vision of perfection makeLaurenta visionofperfection Champs’
in thepossibilitiesofthismostsuavely polish of fruit, andthedeliberatepatient polish offruit, 39
Montagne de Reims Vilmart & Cie
KVM-1 KVM-609 KVM-506 KVM-504M KVM-607M
)
j ( j ) (
.V. N r” Brut, 2007, 3/1.5L j r” Brut, 2009 j O O otes on the Cuvées otes on N 40 Disgorged 8/2013, this swings in a quick wide arc between silver and green, wet forest and the whole verbena-balsam- forest wet and green, silver between arc 8/2013, this swings in a quick wide Disgorged complex; also more leesier and silkier than the bottle was, and It’s year. madness of this beloved wintergreen-Chartreuse years will do—but try two wait long—even to do at least that. You needn’t deliberate and articulate. the finish is precise, Vilmart & Cie “Coeur de Cuvée” Brut, 2004, 3/1.5L j & Vilmart Vilmart & Cie “Coeur de Cuvée” Brut, 2006 j & Vilmart j false new wood, disgorged 3/2013. It’s juice, slightly more of the free-run the oldest vines, the “heart” The best parcels, which above spine iron an has This stronger. and deeper they’re wine; vintage regular the than “oakier” are these say to The finish is sea salt caramel, saffron, fruit. earth, the tasty depths, even in caramel, and somewhere embers of leather, are long and balanced, the best since 2002. and pan scrapings, and it’s sauce reduction graphite and fruit. more it showed where it in the Juhlin, but I preferred in the Janesse, was overwhelming It Vilmart & Cie “Grand Cellier D’ Vilmart does its micro-surgery wine is more thing; the albeit the Juhlin the bigger glass is called for, 11/2013. Here Disgorged if bracing right now, lovely, It’s Magnums. though with the pepperiness of young Jamesse, sumptuous and hedonistic from but will be a masterpiece in 4-5 years. I have two parallel notes, because we tasted from both the Juhlin glasses and from the newest darling, the Jamesse Grand Grand the newest darling, the Jamesse glasses and from both the Juhlin tasted from because we two parallel notes, I have of stems that certainly designed a couple and he’s Crayeres, sommelier at Ch. De is the excellent Champagne. M. Jamesse cunning way. do flatter many Champagnes in the most the slimmer glass it this wine, though from of pippin and apricot-y version cox-orange pumpkin-y and is a really this So, as it really for study, for seduction and the Juhlin Janesse suggest the wider-bowl malic and mineral. I’d silvery, was more disgorged 4/2013, 80-20 CH/PN, vin a splendid GCdO, either case it’s delineates the wine, almost deconstructs it. In clair in barriques for ten months. Vilmart & Cie “Grand Cellier d’ Vilmart Vilmart & Cie “Grand Cellier” Brut, Vilmart years for three this on the cork leave if you especially true here: about to say is true it’s of most Champagne, but What I’m first purchased. times the quality you get three you’ll or longer, are flavors signature each ’11, ’10 and ’09—as always 70-30 CH/PN, disgorged 6/2013. Its wine is one-third This year’s elegant and quickly integrating, also it’s that “’11-thing” lemon, and while it does show Meyer and lobster stock, saffron and the dosage is ideal. is not the regular NV Brut, but rather a superior NV or, seen from the other angle, the least among other angle, the least the seen from a superior NV or, but rather NV Brut, regular CELLIER is not the GRAND the luxury-cuvées. and foudre vines, half aged in older from vintage wine, majority Chardonnay, D’OR is the regular GRAND CELLIER half in barrique. 20% and 80% Chardonnay 50 yrs.), 100% barrique aged, the very DE CUVÉE is from oldest vines (all above COEUR sensible Laurent’s used, arising perhaps by confusion about the age of the barriques seems to be some There Noir. Pinot will be new any case, some of the oak some of it won’t. and vintage decide. In policy of letting the the quality of the Grand end with the 2000, and the fruitThis cuvée will it contained will improve CUVÉE CRÉATION. them?) and then continued, cuvée (remember started as a “millennium” It Cellier d’Or. Cellier and Grand estate. 11-hectare was one special cuvée too many for this but it turned out it Some Some
Montagne de Reims Vilmart & Cie but why?It itneeds;what’s hasallthefruit here wonderful iscomplexity andrefinement. A regal, intelligentwine. apple-yfinish. aromajourney from tothewonderfully theperfumed by usingthewiderglass, You canratchet upthefruit year.make itevery It’s pretty inasurprisinglycoolway, andit’s refined andclassy, andinitsprecise way, intense.A real Disgorged 12/2013,andaficionadoswillknow togetthoseorders innow, Vilmart &Cie“GrandCellier room. Whatever willhappenwiththese’11s? aromas. fervent There’s alottolikehere, butit’s likedrinkingaglasswhensomeone’s steamingcauliflower inthenext 7/2013, it’s blendishalf-half2010-2011,anditreminds 2008red meofcertain Burgundies, theirasperityandalso As always,90-10PN/CH,andagainasoneofthemostsingularvinousRosés inallofChampagne.Disgorged Vilmart &Cie“Cuvée R ubis” Brut, R ubis” Brut2009,6/750mlj N .V.
becausewe won’t getmuchandhedoesn’t KVM-309 KVM-3 41
Montagne de Reims Vilmart & Cie
few telling descriptors.
pink fizz in the entire region.
eims // Jouy-lès-Reims R Cru (clay-limestone) er eims 1 Montagne de Montagne Aubrys were true originals. I still am, and they still are. true originals. I still am, and they still are. Aubrys were of late is the dignity and more striking me more what’s But side—as marketing My been showing. have these wines pathetic as that is—keeps wanting to be playful about the of the wines, but my human side keeps pausing novelties R
yness; the (with Arbanne, Petit Meslier, and Fromenteau) Meslier, oir (with Arbanne, Petit N Champagnes, rather like a cross of Chartogne and Chiquet, but not exactly similarChampagnes, rather like a cross of Chartogne and Chiquet, but not exactly
expanded!
40% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Meunier, grape varieties // 30% Pinot vineyard area // 17 hectares area vineyard // 11,700 cases annual production // Jouy-lès- villages & soil types oduced the wines I was thrilled to ubry ubry Fils A
When I first intr And they do this in an idiom of naked dr eady to have your mind either. Class, depth and detail are Class, depth abundant. They are graceful, even when they’re intense. either.
They are flowery and high-flying 42 Aubry at a glance // Great find offering unique Champagnes. Among the best mainstream NV Brut is the “sweetest” wine in wine in is the “sweetest” NV Brut mainstream relatively the range, with all of six grams. and the many ways highlight all the heirloom varieties, hard to make shift with a how the wines taste // Given the breadth of the range, it’s to
The essential point of AubryThe essential the very is to limn a kind of country line between fine avant-garde. an absolute embrace of the classicism and L. Be r
Montagne de Reims L. Aubry Fils Philippe askedwaswhetherwe’d hadlunch.“No no, should askhimifwe cansniffsomeglue. our faces in disgust. We love our work, man. Next year we sniffing attheseteensyeye-dropper bottlesandwrinkling You shouldhave beentheflyonwall,with allofus flaws by whichonelearnstospottheirspecialtorments. as “Aubry’s Box Of Hell,” consisting of little vials ofwine- was unsure, and thusproduced what came to beknown thatgeosminwastheculprit.Heand mentionedatheory steak-y fish,tunaorswordfish, frizzledherbs,porcini dust, and chalktotheendof creation. high onthehillandstarkly chalky, andnow “from ayear we chaptalized nothing.”It’s andlikeabig round andrusky All 2009.60%CHinwood, 15%PMand25%PN,disgorged12/2013.It alwayscomesfrom thesamethree parcels, L. 2011, whichistosayit’s AubryRosé plusNZSauvignon Blanc. Whether thisabidesorshape-shifts, timewillreveal. This year’s edition is40%CH, 35% PN,12%Meunier-as-white and13%stillMeunier red. Disgorged 2/2014,itisall the pure berry. That isitssignature essence. It isvery L. Meunier expresses here asbarley, crackers.So rusks, thewineisrusky, rye, saline,iodé,mineral andappetizing. Among thebestofyear, infact. andabitgrassy, long,incisive, coppery very The ’11flavor isinescapable,butthisotherwise withafine mintyfinish. Ohsomething new?” no, we’ve alwaysdoneit;we justdidn’t tellyou. Disgorged 2/2014. CH, 25%PNand5%“other” whichmeansArbanneet.al.Acoupleyears ago,whenIlearnedofthis,asked“Is this 60% 2011and40%the“solera” whichever orperpetualreserve, you’d in1998.It’s rathercallit,started 45%PM,25% L. more. Iwonderifhispalatewillchange,anditdoes, happy reason, buthefeelsbetteranddoesn’t smokeany lastApril, andisachangedman. surgery That’s nota now,apart butonlybecausePhilippe haddouble-bypass in ourpalateshadwe infacteaten. calibrate hispouringsequencetoaccountfor the and thiswas were in.I’ve beendoingthisgigtwenty-seven years now, lunch; hewantedtoknow fine,” I began, but he cut me off. You see, he wasn’t offering do theytastelike?? What couldtheypossiblysay? these vinesplantedatall? What becameofthem? What cool,” butinsteadbecausetheywere curious. Why were didn’t dotheheirloomvarieties because“itwouldbe seriouspeople.flourishes ofpersonalityare two very They they are Butand certainly colorful. again, below these before them,noticingtheirbasicandunfussytruths. A A A I O W The ubry Fils“Ivoire & ubry Fils ubry FilsBrut, t’s ahoottastingwiththeseguys.Icantellthetwins ne year we arrived at1:30andthefirstthing e spokewithPhilippe Aubryaboutthe2005issue, dry, andtasteslikeripe blackberriesfrom whichthesweetness hadsomehow beenbledout,leavingtheflavor of (twin) brothers themselves can seem irascible,
a first.And VERY one. smart He would R osé, Brut, N .V. E
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we’re intriguingly vocabulary world, becauseeachuniquethingisanotherword inthe blended with apples; the not underripeness), still convincing. say is me but in as the the andlogitintotheirbook. Blackberry!” ol’ time.If you sayanassociation constantly mutteringflavors tothemselves, havingabig flavor-association thing;whentheypourasample group ofwines. dry always avery They love doingthe whether hissense-of-sweetness willchange.For thisis Jouy, Pargny and Villedommange, allPremier Cru. nearest Grüner mirabelle andsweet hay. The nearest cognatewasinfact full
Champagne, thankstoaregulation allowing “Pinot”
they dislikeArbanneandPetit Meslier, butallI can growers replanted withmore reliable varieties such not specifyingwhichPinot. Some growers have told wines. M I finallygottotasteArbanneandP After thephyllo A I’ of green flavors (i.e.thetastesofgreen things,
m
ubry’s isaseventeen hectare estatewithvineyards that’s asmaybe;whatItasteatAubryisentirely big-3 (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier) and eslier istheexotic: musk-melon,here the
Veltliner.
cognate isGros Manseng; peppermint,exotic glad there’s Arbanneand Petit Meslier inour
The Arbanne was, as anticipated, fascinating; of existence.
wine hadvery also withPinot Blanc, whichispermitted
Chardonnay” according toAubrys.
along xera devastation, theysay, low pH,and“needs tobe with lemon, litchi, cloves,
they stopandsay“Yes! etit Meslier as KAB-709
they are KAB-2 KAB-1
43 in
Montagne de Reims L. Aubry Fils
KAB-9 KAB-306 KAB-809 KAB-609 KAB-409
j ubry” Brut, 2009
A ) j ( r Campanae Veteres Vites” Brut, 2009 j Vites” r Campanae Veteres .V. j j .V. O icolas François N N osé “ R ombre D’ ombre N ubry de Humbert” Brut, 2006 j A dosage. 30% PM & PN co-fermented, 10% CH, 20% AR, 25% Pet-Me, 10% Pinot Blanc and 5% still PM. Blanc Pinot 10% 25% Pet-Me, PN co-fermented, 10% CH, 20% AR, sans dosage. 30% PM & ubry Fils “Dualis” Brut, ubry “ ubry Fils “Le ubry Fils Sablé ubry Fils “Sablé Blanc des Blancs” Brut, 2009 2009 Brut, des Blancs” Blanc Fils “Sablé ubry A A A A A 44 THE MOST PROFOUND AND REMARKABLE CHAMPAGNE IN THIS OFFERING, IN REMARKABLE CHAMPAGNE AND THE MOST PROFOUND YEAR’S. THAN LAST TRANCHE IS NO LARGER THIS 2ND BUT with mind-warping minerality. salty, The wine is explosively “sablé,” “two seasons,” no malo, and a in new aged for wood It consists of 1998 Chard, a first for them, a new cuvée. It’s in en tirage went season.” It “one wood for also 1999 PN that did malo, in 4-year There’s rather than 6. i.e. 4 atmospheres production: Total any dosage. 2013. Barely and was disgorged in February cap), not a crown (a cork, 2000 with “agrafé” 1000 bottles. a couple nights Churchill Winston Cuvée bottle of praised-to-the-skies (and criminally expensive) had a disappointing I’d My been striving for. seemed to have Roger the Pol darkness I felt the gravelly and as soon as I sniffed this baby earlier, and when he comes in for lunch the smells of outside, spent his life working image-vision was of an old, stoic man who’s The empty glass smells like pigeon finish. The wine is adamantly long, with a keen forest-y him. earth and smoke follow It see otherwise.you let AubrysIt speaks to a depth the don’t very This is the opposite of frivolous. and summer truffle. meaningful wine. is extraordinary, L. Named for the bishop who laid the cornerstone for the Reims cathedral, it’s equal parts CH (in oak) PN and PM, old cathedral, it’s cornerstone for the Reims for the bishop who laid the Named the almost corpulent Champagne, de cuvée, disgorged 11/2013, and while this is generally a resplendent, vines, a “couer chalk than last year. silk, talc and with more and crackery, new round disgorgement is generous, L. L. the countryside.” old vines of means “the It 2/2014. 15% AR, 15% CH, 5% PM and 20% PN. Disgorged 20% Pet-Me, the same parcel), 25% PG and PB (from know; you actually Champagne mixology, quince, chalk—it’s vintage of this. Orange-blossom, the sexiest-ever Maybe wonderful essences, minerals, langoustines; length into flower of herbs, interplay hyperactive rich yet complex, incredibly finale. an ore-like Also like It’s gate. the of out least at white, the then flattering more is and fluffy, and exotic really is this 3/2014, Disgorged The weirdest nutmeg and duck skin. Champagne, plus see all over you de Reims Biscuit and those pink petals, oysters it. and I adore in the region, wine iteration of the weirdest L. All the white grapes. 30% CH, 20% Arbanne, 30% Petit Meslier and 20% Fromonteau (a.k.a. Pinot Gris). Their word Their word Gris). Pinot (a.k.a. 20% Fromonteau and Meslier Petit 20% Arbanne, 30% grapes. 30% CH, All the white it 3/2014, Disgorged dosage. zero has wine this and 6 atmospheres), of instead (4 pressure low designate to used is Sablé truffle;Burgundy dough, chicken, raw be fresh fragrance it will follows it, but if flavor when I tasted and sharp arch was and duck stock-y. finish, long smoky char; an evanescent but with and strong ripe it’s L.
Montagne de Reims L. Aubry Fils Chardonnay from Gastronome! At their best they show a force of expressiveness borderingonthesupernatural. Gastronome! At theirbesttheyshowaforce ofexpressiveness spritzyand highlyleesy—onewinemademethinkofGimonnet’show thewinestaste// Extremely Cuvée at thetop. Chartogne-Taillet estate which occasionallysupplements ataglance//12hectare tree inthebirdycherry courtyard wasinfullbloom,easilyfourweeks early. spring cameearly. How early?IwasinMerfy onMarch atChartogne 14th,andthe You mayhave heard there wasnoreal wintertospeakofincentralEurope, andthe 2% grape varieties//40%Chardonnay, 38%Pinot villages &soiltypes//Merfy annual production //7,500cases vineyard area //11.5hectares Chartogne-Taillet sanguinity isflagging. can seehow giddyandconsolingtheworldcanbe,ifyour if oneofuscanfigure outhow, we’ll uploadalink,so you a littlevideofrom herI-Phone, torecord theidyll.Maybe sensiblewifeshot out,andmyvery singing itshornyheart A M S peaking ofbirds, anexceptionally lustyblackbird was rbanne ine often does, and when it does I can reset to
a friendinAvize.Racy, spicyChampagnes atthelowend;sumptuous,brioche-y (sand, claywithchalkandlimestone) N oir, 20%PinotMeunier, on theground inChampagne,andrefusing totakeany inits inception, by launch thisportfolio being my me andhisfamily. Alexandre and how Chartogne, good this all has been with my standard prevailing jocundity, justby thinkingabout E A fe lisabeth Chartogne went far out of her way to help went faroutofher way to lisabeth Chartogne help
w recollections… Montagne de
(legally!) withupto5% R eims //Merfy
Champagnes Champagnes liaison liaison 45
Montagne de Reims Chartogne-Taillet Introduction it is
are are
over over what
to to
only
the air the air
and how and how
minerality. minerality. how they have they have how
x vats. ors, and also if the ors, and also sometimes
walls in the soil, to see walls in the soil, to see
e a big advantage, let a e a big advantage, from the soil that give the the the soil that give from
e the wines reduced aspects e the wines reduced into the wine. I never tryinto the wine. I never
esult in wood (if it's not esult in wood lazy to work or plow his vines, vines, his plow or work to lazy tant passion our young hero brings hero tant passion our young too
soil, but the terroir is first the soil. The The the soil. is first soil, but the terroir the plant to grow, but that’s all; no all; no but that’s the plant to grow, of terroir. Their land, while good (Merfy land, while good (Merfy Their of terroir.
e variations, possibility to lose the freshness freshness the lose to possibility variations, e in the barrels. e thin and delicate than oxidation level for the wine, and we often we and wine, the for level oxidation cel is a very one). good
the roots stay on top of the soil because the stay on top of the soil because the the roots
n the eggs: a pure but also breathy wine, but also breathy n the eggs: a pure I mor but hav of the wine, big best r obtain the hiding the flav woody and par I mor the wine too much, The lees do not influence but also do not giv the ino as it often happens in ith Chartogne-Taillet one appreciates the one appreciates ith Chartogne-Taillet aybe this is all too geeky, but what it really shows shows but what it really aybe this is all too geeky, erfy in fact lies in the so-called Coteaux de Vesle; erfy in fact lies in the so-called Coteaux de
change I change it. What is the terroir? Some say it’s more than than more say it’s Some What is the terroir? just the the air from flavors is winegrower shame. I make a real it’s needs if something and reacting, are the roots take 46 elements roots finesse, complexity, grapes The plant only takes 4 elements from wine, 4 elements that anything to the that give permit to instruct my soil or my vines, I give. to have they flavors what or live to in the best conditions; want to let the vines live when the population in the soil is living how inthebarrels, wild more barrels: n the in many articles that the eggs make I also read very fruity totally false. It home, that's wines. At soil but when the terroirs, could happens on poor only influenced and the wine isn't is respected, from mainly and also but variety, grape the by lose this very the soil, we easy fruit, obtain a and on the wine, focusing on the mineral, terroir pure result is more the stones, subsoil influence (here, our salty or stony thanks to our chalk or from specific limestone). W M M The most impor “84%” on the Échelle de Crus) is not aristocratic.
significance the chalk. at Selosse: biodynamics. Here at Selosse: of his practicum a result his words: is covering beach of an ocean what was once the sits on Thus its 60cm of sand depression. the Reims is now mind and an ambitious spirit. is the questing of a restless and what the newis Which shows of Champagnes family then some.
easons. al lees production al lees production egroup the lees with the egroup e for me two inseparable elements. e for me two inseparable eally helps me to reduce the sulfur eally helps me to reduce esult is: e that Alexandre Chartogne is the most excitinge that Alexandre e moving casually. The winegrower decides The winegrower casually. e moving ’t surprised when Alexandre assumed the estate, surprised when Alexandre ’t n the eggs, the Brownien movement helps movement n the eggs, the Brownien n the barrels, the lees from the fermentations the lees from n the barrels, the lees to be always in contact with the wine. This r amount (thanks to the natur of sulfur), but also r wine who ar The r I ar to make a batonnage or not for many r I
ere’s an example. Alexander has installed two an example. Alexander ere’s t first all I knew was there was a son. Then I learned a son. was I knewt first all was there ometime in those years Elisabeth brought her (then) brought Elisabeth ometime in those years
-
- Concerning those eggs, there is a huge vinification is a huge vinification Concerning those eggs, there the vats the eggs, the barrels, between difference or enamel). (inox - t begins with a new/old approach to vineyard work, t begins with a new/old to vineyard approach H I I believ I wasn S A at Selosse. “That’s all I need; now he’s going to going he’s all I need; now “That’s stage-ing at Selosse. 46
fermentation/storage “eggs” in the cuverie. He wrote to wrote He in the cuverie. fermentation/storage “eggs” (having edited parts of which I reproduce us one year, misspellings etc.). (sheeps and horses), Critters bio-dynam-ish, one might say. viticulture detail, each aspect of soil analyses of remarkable is also Cellar-work challenged and changed as necessary. information almost too much there’s Indeed new. excitingly for info and source blog is a lovely Alexander’s here. to give Suffice all the basics. gives website updates, and the estate’s of inquiry a vivid spirit the likes of which here, to say there’s region. seen in this habit-riven never I have It’s a quest for a kind of immersion, an unquenchable desire a quest for a kind of immersion, an unquenchable It’s to experience. And I also believe he in Champagne. And I also believe producer young of wisdom when he said to me, “I the fountain drank from about something.” Because sure do not feel good when I’m soul. the hunger in a man’s measure you how that’s and I wasn’t surprised that he was ambitious. What did surprised that he was ambitious. and I wasn’t that he is to surprise me, is surprise me, and continues not only I know, the most passionately curious vigneron pursuing is He anywhere. maybe just but Champagne, in take the form of accolades—though something that doesn’t asks for answers. even come—and hardly these will surely
want us to buy three dozen wooden barrels…” wooden dozen want us to buy three a L’Arnsbourg, son to meet my wife and me at young been I’d Park. National Vosges 3-star in the northern remote stellar and affordable, that it was her, singing its praises to Awwww! 3-star meal. first be junior’s and she wanted it to he was interested in wine. Then one day, as we sat under a sat as we one day, Then in wine. he was interested schmoozing garden, in their early spring tree blossoming Chartognewith Phillipe urgently drinking some (and Alexandre that I learned beverages…) needed caffeinated was money for it. Yes it was self-interested, but not directly, and but not directly, self-interested, it was Yes for it. money without her. happened have it couldn’t
Montagne de Reims Chartogne-Taillet hippy and tart-berried—yet thewineisn’thippy andtart-berried—yet butratherredcurranty, atall tart, groseille, salmon-yandspicy. Disgorged 1/2014, and all 2010; roughly half-half PN/CH; it’s spicy and needly as ’10s can be, but it’s also salty, rose- Chartogne-Taillet whole personalityiswry, whenthemooditright. dancingandsmiling,withasaltyvocabulary delicate thanLesBarres; afinesplendid ladywithdemure manners. Notes of roasted tomatoes, cloves andginger, but the Again single-parcel, thistimePinot Noir. PNaromas, even alittlebacony, Leathery orlikepancetta orcoppa;it’s more Chartogne-Taillet “Les A low growl masterlyChampagne. ofvinosity;atruly oratorical, declamatory, andgenerous. and5-spice,underlyingstoniness;long,chewy andfantasticallycomplex;starfruit As you know, it’s ungrafted oldvines single-parcel Meunier. a patriarcheThe fragrance iswonderful, ofMeunier; it’s some. Scoring anyofthiswinehasbecomeabellwether inChampagneitself. ofyour hippitude,certainly You merit,you get Chartogne-Taillet “LesBarres” And absurdly solidandlong.Disgorged 1/2014. freesia andjust-fadingpeony, butit’s incandescentlydelineated,andifsuchathingcanbesaid,it’s dramaticallyrefined. mineralsandpear-blossom;tastesasthoughitweremouthful ofcrushed passedthrough scree andglacier-dust;ginger The firstinthesingle-parcel series,thebasewineisunfiltered, andthewinewillbelegendary. thedosageisperfect, A Chartogne-Tailletj BlancdeBlancs“Heurtebise,”Brut,2008j classy. more pointed.But thisgorgeouswineispointillistandsilky;gingermintwhiteflowers; incredibly incisive and Disgorged 2/2014,60-40PN/CH,andasalwaysmadefrom parcels withmore clayinthesoil,andthusacidity is Chartogne-Taillet MillésimeBrut,2008j powerful consideringhow lightonitsfeetitis. years, said“Wow, thisChampagnehasahugeamountofimpact.”Andyes, itdoes.It’s parade,andseriously asensory by theglass. So Chartogne weand theyserved dranksome.My companion,whomaynothave hadthiscuvéeforafew monthsagoatAmein A finalanecdote.Idinedafew San Francisco, andmycompanionwasa well-known wineauthor, full year, sobuyinyou freshly disgorged.I’d rathertellyou whatIsaidaboutPierre Péters:Plan! We’re notgoingtobeablekeepstockforthe intheprevious new-yearwinetomakeupshortfalls 4th-quarter,quarter whichmeansthewinesare younger andmore I have to tell you, though, we’re pulling ahead of our allocations, which is actually not helpful, because we take the 1st- polished andconcentrated. The pickofthe’11-basedNVs. for Champagne,showing almostRiesling-likegreen herbs,verbena andaloevera; otherthanthatitisbrightand stony, than lastyear’s masterpiece.It wasthefirst’11-basedChampagnewhere thegreen flavor wasactuallyagreeable, ifunusual Next timewe shipitwillbethisassemblage,disgorged3/2014,and50-50PN/CH,80%201120%10-09.It’s drier Chartogne-Taillet “CuvéeSte- R osé, Brut don’t dry. run O rizeaux” N A .V. j E nne” Brut, j j xtra Brut,2009,6/750mlj E xtra Brut,2009,6/750mlj
N .V. ( j )
KCT KCT KCT KCT KCT KCT -809 -809 -709 -308 -6 -6 -9 -1 47
Montagne de Reims Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Vintages
These will make you humble.
Most of you know that the vintage wines, i.e. the how it will find its inner gracefulness. ones above the NV level but below the tête-de-cuvée level (if there is one) are where the values are. 2008 has been lovable from the first instant. It’s a high- It’s tempting to start sussing a vintage when its wines acid and extremely flowery vintage that always smells begin to appear in the NV cuvées. Yet I find it can easily fabulous. It feels like an easy vintage to have a huge crush mislead, because the quality of material that goes into the on. But I felt that way about another floral high-acid year, Vintages actual vintage wine is different, and will often surprise you. 1998, and when that vintage left its babyhood it went into a shell from which it is only just starting to emerge. 2009 is a case in point. It looked like a sunny round But when you taste a wine like the ’08 Special Clubs from cheerful vintage as it entered the NV cuvées, but the vintage Hébrart or Margaine, nothing like those were made in wines are quite adamant and sometimes even clunky and ’98. So I’m tentatively declaring that 2008 is the best heavy-footed – or so it seems. 2009 recalls the young ’99s, vintage of the decade after 2002, which it resembles in another vintage marked by yellow fruit and which seemed miniature. rather vulgar on first glance, but those young ducklings turned into graceful swans with time. They slimmed down, 2007 is… small, a modest year of barely adequate ripeness, became sensuous and silky, and started showing class. My in many cases. Yet even this little vintage has given some “issue” with ’09, such as it may be, is based on a suspicion beautiful wines. They don’t seem like long keepers though. that growers will react to its low acids and give the wines insufficient dosage. The vintageseems less sanguine and 2006 looked like a big chummy galoot of a vintage as more kvetchy a year on. But I am beginning to learn that it entered the NV blends. Yet when the vintage-wines we hardly know just what a Champagne vintage will finally arrived, I was struck by the incisiveness of the chalky look like until it is out of its childhood. So the only accurate mineral blade-end that so many of them showed, especially things to say about 2009 are that it is ripe and strong, less the Chardonnays. At this point I’d say I really really like flowery than fruity, and it remains to be seen where and this vintage, and that it appears to be reliable. It doesn’t
48 Vintages
49 suggest any adolescent funks or tantrums. for each ’02 I think may be developing hastily, I open three or four that want to be left alone, as they should at this 2005 is the geosmin vintage or whatever the hell it is, or stage. In any case, the great wines of this excellent vintage was. Its basic nature is an undisciplined power; it is not offer everything the Champagne lover could ask for: a gracious vintage, even when it’s clean. Often it tastes focused aromas with flowers leading a charge including like the soapacious side of Pinot Blanc. Yet one finds fruits and spices; textures of restrained power and keen exceptions, wines of a certain gracefulness that absorbed expressiveness; flavors showing classic parameters, nothing
their strength of fruit. And as for the dubious aspects, that out-of-the-way. Certainly a marvelous vintage; potentially rotten potato thing so many of them had… all I can say is a classic. let’s get ready to HUM-BLLLE… because we didn’t know where it came from or why, and now we don’t know where If you find any older vintages,2000 is/was a good it’s disappearing to (in some wines) or why. year that seems to be aging fast, so drink ’em if you got ’em. 1999 is a beauty, or has become one. It’s the closest 2004 seems to have become the badge of entry into the thing to the Champagne paradigm, and very tasty now, society of True-Champagne-Lovers. It was a huge crop, though the top Chardonnays will keep and ought to be and much of its wine was competent and unexciting. But kept. 1998 is back from its cave, and showing well again the best of them were the purest most vivid examples of in a snappy acid-focused manner. Best in Chardonnay. green flavors Champagne may ever have shown. Green 1997 was an undemanding and entirely decent year, like balsam, wintergreen, spearmint, chartreuse, tarragon, which I haven’t tasted in eons. 1996 is and will probably verbena, lime-zest. It isn’t always a fetching vintage, and always be a conundrum. Is it finito now, since its fruit some wines need more time, but whew, when you land on is over-mature and seems to have detached from a still- a good one it’ll curl your toes. stinging acidity? Or is this just a phase? And how could it be a “phase” when so many wines taste so decadent? 2003 gave few vintage wines, not because of the heat I don’t know, I don’t know, I don’t know. I suspect the but because of the tiny crop. The wines were sometimes vintage was misjudged by people who love acidity, and good and always atypical, as if someone were marooned who often make the mistake of supposing wines age from in Chablis and tried making sparkling wine there–—in a acidity. But I also remember how profound those wines hot vintage. tasted in their youth, when we thought they’d never die, or even grow old. Then some of them got old before they 2002 is the Great One, about which the only caveat seems were ever young. to be the markedly quick evolution of some examples. Yet Like I said, Champagne will make you humble. If its true that the road to excess leads to the palace of wisdom, Terry Theise has been there and back. A brief perusal of his writing makes it quickly apparent that the man has no reservations about conveying his thoughts and feelings on wine, life, sex, philosophy and general cosmology. In Terry’s world, it’s all interrelated. We encourage you to jump headlong into the wonderful world of Terry Theise Estate Selections. Prepare yourself for a psychotropic experience.
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