Theise Manifesto
Beauty is more important than impact.
Harmony is more important than intensity.
The whole of any wine must always be more than the sum of its parts.
Distinctiveness is more important than conventional prettiness.
Soul is more important than anything, and soul is expressed as a trinity of family, soil and artisanality.
Lots of wines, many of them good wines, let you taste the noise. But only the best let you taste the silence. “I’ll speak not as a wine grower, but as a wine drinker now; when I drink a wine, worked by people who spent three times longer in their vineyards, who always followed their grapes, who suffered the same climactic conditions as their vines, I dream. I dream, and it gives me pleasure, because I know there is a story, work, patience, passion, and the unique beliefs of the wine grower.”
- Alexander Chartogne
“...The borderline between enough and too much is a crucial aspect of the wine drinking experience. Today it is not at all uncommon for wines to make a pretty plausible and superficially attractive impression in the first moment—sweet and fruity aromas, then a soft, round taste—but after only a glass it starts tasting like unbearably gooey kitsch. The wine has not changed, rather the drinker has realized that the liquid in his glass is all make-up and silicone, possibly lacking any real body beneath these cosmetics. I call this taste fluffy white bunny because this type of wine appeals to our BABY-TASTE. Unlike adult-taste which is culturally-determined and therefore a serious obstacle to trans-cultural wine brands—the undeclared goal of the handful of huge companies who today dominate global wine sales—baby-taste is the same the world over. The truth is though that hardly any wines naturally have a fluffy-white-bunny taste. Nearly all of them acquire this in the cellar where the technical possibilities for the manipulation of wine are now almost unlimited. Only computer- generated virtual reality is more completely malleable, which means that in these corporations’ industrial production facilities the taste of vine biodiversity, of place and of regional wine traditions all become part of the COLLATERAL DAMAGE in the global wine sales war ...There are other descriptors for this NOWHERE-PLANET-WINE taste which is determined by marketing plans and quarterly figures. Reinhard Lowenstein of Heymann-Lowenstein in Winningen/Mosel calls it Plastico-Fantastico-Viagra, making clear how the enormous success of this wine style is based upon artificially stimulated desire...”
- Stuart Pigott tasting ofnothing,thenyoushouldbedrinkingfarmer-fizz! rapturous withsweetnessinsteadofsomeJanuarytomatoyoubuyatthesupermarket hard asastoneand DIVERSITY, anddiversityleadstoVITALITY . Andifyou’drathereatalocalfield-ripenedsummer tomato Thing butisindeedaBEING,expressive ofwhere itgrew andwhoraisedit.Indrinkingityouhelpprotect You shoulddrinkgrower-Champagne because,likeallhand-craftedestate-bottledwines,itisnotamere for massivePRandadbudgets,ortoholdonmarket-share. You shoulddrinkitbecauseitspriceishonestlybasedonwhatcoststoproduce, notmanipulatedtoaccount company. yours—by a“him,”notbyan“it.”You shoulddrinkitbecauseit'sbettertobuywinefrom apersonthanfrom a You shoulddrinkitbecauseit'shonestREALwinegrown andmadebyavintner—byFAMILY justlike goods” business. more thanthelowest-commondenominatorpapservedupbymegaconglomeratesin“luxury You shoulddrinkgrower-Champagne iftheindividuallydistinctiveflavorsofterroir-driven winesmatter Champagne likeawholehumanbeing? be persuadedto“consume.”Doyoureally wanttobereduced toamere “consumer”whenyoucandrink to vineyard, thanawine“formed”bymarketingswamiwho’s studiedtothenth-degree whatyoucan You shoulddrinkitifyou'dratherhaveawineexpressive ofvineyard, andthegrower's ownconnection You shoulddrink“farmer-fizz” ifyou'dratherbuyChampagnefrom afarmerthanfactory. You shoulddrinkgrower Champagneifyou'veforgottenthatisWINE. Why DrinkGrower Champagne?
Introduction Contents
Introduction // 1
Côte des Blancs
Pierre Gimonnet // 6
Varnier-Fannière // 10
Jean Milan // 12
Pierre Péters // 14
Vallée de la Marne
Marc Hébrart // 16
Henri Goutorbe // 18
Gaston Chiquet // 20
René Geoffroy // 23
Moussé Fils // 26
Montagne de Reims
Henri Billiot // 28
Jean Lallement // 30
Pehu-Simonet // 32
A. Margaine // 34
Vilmart & Cie // 36
L. Aubry Fils // 40
Chartogne-Taillet // 43
Champagne Vintages // 47 Introduction Introduction
I had a perfect time in Champagne last month, if by higher. Take a bow Josh, Brad, Antonio, Peter, and prepare “perfect” you understand it to include sliding 200 yards to welcome Mr. Schildknecht to your peerage. backwards down an icy hill in an ill-equipped taxi in a I’ve generally spent this intro text considering all the blinding snowstorm. That was something short of perfect. ways it’s whimsical and wry to tweak the Big Houses for all But everyone was happy, I learned a ton, and the wines their silly behaviors (and mediocre wines), but I think I’ll showed well. ease off a little. I’m grateful that business is so good. My These are happy times for farmer-fizz. In a year when growers and I are making better friends with each passing overall Champagne shipments to the U.S. were down 9%, year. Most of you have well understood why it’s nicer to ours were up 4%. There are more good growers on the buy Champagne from families than from factories. market all the time. The share of the RM category has Just two little points to make, though. There’s still grown considerably, nearly a full percent in the last year a few stubborn holdouts who persist in repeating the alone. Journalists are talking to every cool grower. The argument that all Negoçiants are not evil and not all of cool growers are talking to one another, which believe me their Champagnes are awful. Then they get all populist wasn’t always the case. The increased attention being paid and claim we should drink whatever we think tastes good. to every aspect of Champagne has had a (mostly) favorable I find such an argument staggeringly obtuse, and seriously effect on the negoçiants also, who are less secretive and unnecessary. who even sometimes say things that aren’t self-serving If you want to consider the Big Houses based on how bullshit. If you look only at the leading American wine they behave, i.e., how they ration information, how they writers paying careful attention to Champagne, you have treat their customers, how they treat the growers they buy to agree the status of coverage has grown exponentially grapes from, you’ll quickly learn that most of them are...
1 um, not very nice. Whenever I have a spasm of indulgent good as the best of (PC) Cuis, its neighbor. The natural tolerance, people who know the region better than I do question becomes, why isn’t there a classification of actual are quick to remind me how silly it is to cut these guys any vineyards within communes, so that the best of them can slack at all. Apart from which, to them I’m just a flea. be recognized? Most of the Big Brand Champagne is ordinary The usual answer is, everybody knows which are the
Introduction mediocre wine. It’s industrial, and tastes like it. It is, best parcels and sites, but it would be politically impossible Introduction arguably, “reliable” and there’s something to be said to enact such a granular classification, because all it could for that. I admire how decent some of the wines are, do is harm. That is, think of a grower who trades on his considering how and in what volume they are made. But “Grand Cru” Cramant, whereas in fact he has the lowest- insisting on drinking them because you should “drink quality land in the commune. If his parcels are suddenly what you like” is a waste of time and money. downgraded to Premier Cru, it’s tantamount to lifting It goes without saying that honorable exceptions Euros from his pocket. Growers would take to the streets exist. All of us know who they are. And it should go with pitchforks. So, it is argued; such a classification is without saying that I’m talking about the basic NVs impossible. here; the Tête-de-Cuvées are almost always excellent and Except, it already exists. And is used. Just not shared sometimes superb, and cost about 70-100% more than with the likes of us. they’re worth. Each commune has land in categories A, B and C, One of my growers painted a bleak picture of and the hierarchy is taken into account for all manner typical vinification at a Big Brand facility. His cousin of vineyard work including the issuing of the official is a cellar-rat there. First the must is centrifuged and permission to start harvesting. It is based largely on chaptalized and pressed very quickly with cultured yeasts, microclimate. These things have been studied, observed, enzymes and nitrogen. The result, already denuded of and are known. So JB Geoffroy might receive permission much of its original flavor, is aged in stainless steel and to pick his (warmest) category-A vineyards in Cumieres
racked frequently to avoid any H2S taint, fined and 3-4 days before he’s allowed to start in the category-B filtered and rendered, in effect, neutral. (Pierre Aubry told vineyards, and Cumieres in general will begin earlier than, Jefford the way raw materials are treated in Champagne say, Damery or Dizy. made him feel like a “luxury sugar-beet grower.”) There Ambient warmth isn’t everything. There are geological is nothing especially shocking here; these are industrial factors in play, as well as exposure, and it could well be products, after all, guided by expediency and market that a grower’s cooler vineyard—say an east-facing parcel research. But the worst is yet to come. What really —will give his best wine because of a longer hang-time. constitutes the celebrated “house-styles” of the Big Brands Degree-days alone are a blunt object. Yet! I think this has less to do with their grape sources and more to do information should be shared with the public, because I with various additives present in the dosage liqueur. “After think the more we know about where wines come from, they’ve done everything they can to remove all flavor from the more deeply we will understand them. the wines, they then add it back at the end with doctored Another thing we don’t talk about enough is this: dosage.” I was told. When Didier Gimonnet told me “We waited to pick All of this is entirely to be expected, but it does I and then had to pick all at once because the grapes were think compel us to ask; do we want to buy wine from ripening immediately; we actually picked some lots with these guys? Especially wine with so much expectation 10.5 and even 11% potential alcohol,” my first question attached! “Champagne” carries a charge, and even those was how you keep the eventual Champagne within the of us who argue for its everyday usefulness at-table must typical 12.5% alc after the second fermentation. It turns admit that, emotionally, Champagne is used differently out there are two ways. One is, you manipulate the second than other wines. We invest our hearts in it, whether we’re fermentation by the amount of sugar in the liqueur de celebrating or consoling, and in those moments do we tirage, and the other is you manipulate residual sugar. In really want to be observing these solemn or glad occasions short, you will create less supplemental alcohol by using with something a suit-with-a-spreadsheet designed? less sugar in your sugar-yeast mixture. Which in turn means you won’t necessarily have the six atmospheres of TWO THINGS YOU PROBABLY DIDN’T KNOW pressure one presumes are present in normal Champagne. In fact this is far from uniform, and one grower told me, Most of you do know that Champagne villages are “You can find everything from four and a half to six and classified on a so-called “scale of growths,” and that 17 all points between.” of these villages are Grand Cru, after which there’s a Something we hear less often is that not all secondary slew of Premier Crus and then a very big glom of just- fermentations complete to absolute dryness. I don’t plain Crus. Many of you know, or have wondered, how suppose it happens a lot, but I’m also certain there are they could classify entire communes, when any given Champagnes with residual sugar in the base wine before commune’s vineyards are bound to vary in quality. To dosage is added. It’s worth remembering when you listen use a blatant example, the least of (GC) Cramant isn’t as to the dry or anti-dosage purists. Most of them of course
2 mean exactly what they say, but we should at least bear in Less sweetness is more desirable under two mind, when someone says how dry his wine is because he and only two circumstances in Champagne: one, the uses little or no dosage, that his base wine may have had a wine tastes better that way; two, the drinker happens dollop of its own sweetness. to honestly dislike sweetness in his Champagne. (We’ll Another gratifying thing was to see the growing sense leave aside for the moment the sweetness he accepts in of activity among the growers in the region itself. There’s myriad other things...). You cannot determine these the 3rd annual tasting with the theme “Winegrowers things until you taste. Can you imagine someone saying continue to revolt in the name of Champagne’s terroirs!” “I ate a lot of fritos when I was a kid, and now I just being held in Aÿ. Eighteen growers will take part, a virtual can’t stand the taste of salt in anything.” Somehow it’s only who’s-who of the hotties: Agrapart, Bérèche, Chartogne, sugar that inspires these theological disputes. Introduction Doquet, Geoffroy, Goutorbe, Laherte, Tarlant among Tom Stevenson recently published an article in others. Such a thing would have been unheard-of back World Of FineWine in which he said – someone finally in 1997, but now there’s an ignition of enlightenment. said – that Champagnes with less than 6 grams-per-liter And Champagne, forever the most moribund of regions, (g.l.) wouldn’t age well. I’ll revisit this subject when I is now among the most interesting. write about the many shades of “Brut” a little later on. And there are more growers than ever on the U.S. I am also willing to accept the truism about market, 178 in 2011. That’s a lot of growers, pal. And the blender’s art. Blending is certainly an art when the market-share for this cunning little category is 3.43%. done well, though this doesn’t address the matter of Still, when I started this Quixotic thing in 1997, the share whether and when it’s necessary.The fact is there isn’t was 0.62%, so we have traveled a distance. a single decent Récoltant who sells the Négoce his best I opened my existing Champagne catalogue and saw grapes! Rather the opposite. And for any single Négoce I’d written a desperate note; “Must we talk about residual who truly practices the “blender’s art” there are two dozen sugar any more?” This is the inevitable downside of the who’re dumping a lot of mediocre fruit into one big tub. Champenoise entering the current. There’s a fragile balance of power in Champagne. The This year was the year-of-the-dosage-trials, as growers Houses need the growers to supply them grapes. Many are let me further in to their process. I am touched by the abjectly dependent on their network of cute little paysannes. collegial gestures of trust. I also have strong opinions The growers claim to need the Houses to act as flagships, on this question, or better said, one strong opinion. It’s furthering the good image of Champagne throughout the simple and seems self-evident, until you contemplate how world. Publicly the Houses put on a tolerant face as regards infrequently it is applied. the growers. Privately... well, you see. Wine should be balanced. Different wines are One grower with whom we discussed the “ethics” balanced with different amounts of sweetness, and a few are balanced with little or none. The 4g/l of a Lallement of marketing grower-Champagne said “We ourselves Rosé would simply not work with Margaine’s Rosé, but are really not in a position to criticize the Grandes it’s perfect for Lallement. Other examples abound. Marques, because they break new ground for Champagne, But why does this even need to be said? This is open new markets, and eventually we get our small share kindergarten wine understanding! But, sadly, a common- of it too. We’d never have the ability to do that on our sense proposition like this one is mortally threatened by own; we’re too small. Look, we taste around, we know an obtuse and dogmatic insistence that drier is always very well how mediocre their wines are, but we need them.” preferable. And this idea is just stupid enough to be “It sounds like you also need us,“ I observed,” to fight speciously seductive, and a lot of otherwise sharp cookies this fight for you, to say the things you know but can’t say.” were seduced. “Exactly,” came the reply. So I was hugely encouraged when two growers shared Champagne Fleury was threatened with a their dosage trials with me, because these were two who lawsuit because the label on their Rosé bore a certain seemed at risk of slipping down the rabbit hole whereby resemblance to Perrier-Jouët’s Fleur de Champagne dryness was forced into their wines as proof of purity. I (never mind the Fleury was a Rosé, in a clear bottle, watched them return to reasonableness, and was happy. unlikely to be mistaken for PJ’s wine except by the color- Less dosage is not always better. It doesn’t make blind), thus invoking trademark-protection issues, PJ’s your wine more honest, more pure, more transparent, having effectively trademarked flowers apparently. I can more sophisticated, or more honorable; it just makes it only imagine how threatened they must have felt by the more dry. Among the many dubious things we owe the 100 cases of Fleury Rosé rampaging through the American big Champagne houses is that they’ve poisoned the well market. But still, zero-tolerance and all that. Around the by making their commercial bottlings treacly-sweet in order to same time I learned that Clicquot was suing a sparkling mask the deficiencies of the base product, or because they wine producer in Tasmania who had the temerity to use presume their “market” wants the wines sweet. And so we all a yellow label on their fizz. Perhaps the Houses should believe that less sweetness is more desirable. First we let them collectively trademark VOWELS, so that the growers dupe us, and then we duped ourselves. would have to call their wine “Chmpgn.”
3 Introduction
What is this thing called “Brut?” highest legally permitted, and very often seen across the big brands), low acidity, neutral character, all of
One thing it isn’t is drier than it used to be, it disguised by CO2, is SWEET wine. It tastes like a despite those news reports that “Brut” would be confined Rheinhessen Kabinett with 30 g.l. residual sugar. to 12g.l. or below, instead of the 15g.l. which was formerly And both of them called “Brut”! allowed. Well, that is not exactly true; it’s truthy, as Mr. The dosage liqueur is one of two things, either Colbert would say. Because this fierce new rule permits a wine (of varying type) to which cane or beet sugar is tolerance of 1.5g.l. in either direction. “Nothing’s going added, or concentrated grape-must. And naturally, to change,” is what I was told, again and again. growers’ opinions differ! One time I ordered a vintage Blanc de Blancs from Insofar as all the must-concentrate seems to hail one of the better négociants. It ought to have been good, from the Languedoc, I have some doubts. Uneasy is the and it was. Out of curiosity I left half a glass to go flat. mouth which speaks of terroir in one breath and describes Tasting it at the end of the meal, I was startled to see how adding Languedoc must-concentrate to Champagne sweet it was. in the next. Even more uneasy the mouth intoning its The next morning at Pierre Gimonnet I tasted organic credentials while adding chemically-produced his N.V. Brut, which had 6 g.l. residual sugar. This was Languedoc must concentrate to his wine instead of the certainly dry Champagne, correctly called “Brut.” But organic alternative: sugar (organically grown) dissolved in a commercial Champagne with 15 g.l. sweetness (the his own organic wine. What you have to probe to learn is
4 that must-concentrate is much easier to work with than if this is true, then what does it suggest? Let’s remember, conventional dosage liqueur. Easier means cheaper, and a starchy aroma and also the scent of fresh button- an earlier end to the work-day. mushrooms are typical for many Champagnes. Is 2005 A basic conceptual error is to consider dosage exclusively aberrant only by having exaggerated these ordinary things? a corrective device by which an inadequate wine is made Or is it alien? Again, we don’t know, I don’t know, and the viable. Thus you hear growers say “My wine is so good it only sensible thing to do as a professional and a human doesn’t need a high dosage.”What further complicates the being is to keep tasting, let all hypotheses be provisional issue is that sometimes this is true. But sometimes not! For and malleable, and admit the limits to one’s knowledge. me, the idea that dosage is a necessary evil to be minimized Whether one likes 2005, assuming you have a pristine at all costs is short-sighted. It also distorts the grower’s one, is a simple question of taste. They’re heavy-footed view of his wine, because he is only seeing through a and, by Champagne’s standards of finesse and grace, a Introduction prism of sugar. Dosage should be adjusted according to a little crude. As always, exceptions exist. But it’s a vintage wine’s beauty and to its aging capacity. for tasters who like ‘em gutsy. A competitor in New York published some I repeat my admonition to resist seeing this in sales material saying his farmer-fizz was hipper than overbroad strokes. I am not boycotting 2005. But I will mine because it was drier. How he knew that, I have refrain from offering many wines I’d otherwise have no earthly idea. (Why he did it is clearer; just random expected to offer. And when I do offer an ‘05, I’ve vetted crapwad behavior.) My Champagnes are all over the place it as best I could, and believe it to be not only sound, but in residual sugar – as it should be! Beware of anyone who significantly worthwhile. comes at you belching doctrine, because the only sensible Indulge me a minute. When I did a Champagne doctrine is to be suspicious of doctrine altogether. And no lunch for the Chicago trade last October, I found myself doctrine I know in the wine world is as misleading and talking a lot about the benefits of being wrong, or pernicious as the dry doctrine. being clueless. When I was younger I wanted to appear authoritative, and I thought the way one did that was Champagne at the table to affect omniscience. And to state big strong opinions. As the mystery of the 2005 vintage deepened, I found I I warn you now; if we do a wine dinner I won’t felt happier. The demolition of successive theories was a allow Champagne to be used as an aperitif and ignored helpful lesson in humility, and a reminder to always be thereafter. Not when it’s one of the easiest slamdunk food prepared for surprise; wine knows more than we do, and wines of all. Many of you know this already, so I’ll spare it always has the last word. It seemed more valuable to you the exegeses. I have always disliked bombast and share this with my fellow professionals than to sound like ostentation in any aesthetic object, and wines that scream I Knew-My-Shit because I harbored no evident doubts. I to be noticed are exactly those I find easiest to ignore. But wonder if it did any good—who knows? wines which slide smoothly onto the palate and dance in There’s more conversation about reduction sync with food are the wines which, paradoxically, have in Champagne, but one year I learned that the so-called the most to say to us. And Champagne, among such Gout de Lumière (the taste of light) is often mistaken wines, is perhaps the most refined and sensuous. for reduction. A gentleman named John Woodward wrote this very useful explanation. The 2005 problem [The gout de lumière is] “light-struck taint caused by methionine and vitamin B2 degradation with the As recently as a year ago, I felt fairly confident that generation of a bevy of noxious smelling thiols. It will occur in many 2005 Champagnes suffered from an off-aroma just a few weeks on a retail shelf, even sooner under bright and flavor resembling rotten potatoes or moldering flourescent lighting, and will persist in the bottle through mushrooms. Among all the various explanations offered cellaring.” To which I would only add, it is of course most as to the possible cause, a geosmin infection seemed most prevalent in clear-glass bottles, even frosted clear-glass, plausible. The problem, at first denied, was now being which need to be wrapped in UV-ray repelling paper. I discussed openly, and the CIVC (and credit where it’s experimented in the ol’ home cellar, putting one bottle due, many of the big houses) were spending money trying of Rosé on the wine rack where it would be exposed to to get to the root cause. daylight, and I left another in its case. Opened them both With the passing of a year, I’m more in the dark than after 30 days, and the difference was apparent. ever. Some of the affected wines have actually shed the There are more oaky Champagnes than ever yuckies and are now tasting clean. I have no idea how before. Trendy. Ugh, for the most part. Though some this could have happened. If it is random bottle-variation, are very fine, the problem arises because oak always then: why?? If it is some thing that passed into and then tastes... like oak. It’s like that period in cuisine when through the wines, then: what?? And how? everyone was cilantro-crazy. Again, many of these oak- Peter Liem reports having experienced the driven Champagnes are fine and even excellent, but to phenomenon with several 2006s – which I have not. But me they’re guilty until proven innocent.
5
Didier. Didier.
hanging
heavy and clumsy.” ger Grand Cru,
VERY BEAUTIFULVERY O (chalk and clay) journalists for his views on yields Côte des Blancs // Cuis Côte des
Cru “soft”minerality dispersed through
er , especially from the climat “Croix “Croix the climat , especially from Cuis oir N alcohol of nearly 13% (T.T. here: 9-10% is alcohol of nearly 13% (T.T.
Gimonnet’s vineyards are vineyards more than 40 Gimonnet’s I admit I find obscure. It shows very little shows It obscure. find I admit I
ts neighbor just across the Cramant line is called “Les Cramant the ts neighbor just across Chouilly I The wines of
a berried tartness and a there’s fruit as-such. Instead minerality. alongside an indirect serious spine of structure like on the plain, “smells Aigu,” down The climat “Mont The very old parcel Gimonnet! to... according Gimonnet” (planted in 1911) often du Bateau” in neighboring “Fond char. in its forceful Veltliner Grüner recalls again, and quince flowers are there Suddenly Gromonts.” why Who knows along with a tactile crushed minerality. all know when we they put the commune line just there, the Riesling in general is is a hoax…. Cramant terroir other is open and tangy; “Buissant” Chardonnay. lover’s and most iridescent. climates echo Riesling at its greenest don’t fit in the existing recipes. So either those recipes So either those recipes. fit in the existing don’t created. must change, or new recipes of fruits and flowers, and redolent fresh are Blanche,” femininity lively a give They peonies. especially quince and as wines. viable on their own, often are and cuvée, to a is indispensable feels that a certain amount of Cuis Didier Cru it costs him the Grand though to his style, even integrity. That’s designation in many instances. Cru (chalk); Cuis 1 er ÿ 1 A racy wines. These are very deliciously accommodating to
Later, when we were tasting the lots for assemblage, we agreed Later,
wines, which have all the density they need and no more. “In 2003
100. The wines tolerate a very low dosage, 6-8 grams per liter for
ÿ Grand Cru, Mareuil sur ÿ Grand Cru, Mareuil vineyard area // 28 hectares area vineyard // 20,800 cases annual production Chouilly Grand Cru, // Cramant Grand Cru, villages & soil types A 98% Chardonnay, 2% Pinot 98% Chardonnay, grape varieties // surely heard, a great left some grapes vintage,” he said. “And just as an experiment we
en years of tasting vins clairs with of en years this wine was useless to us; it belonged nowhere. We ended up selling it off. It was this wine was useless to us; it belonged nowhere. We “For me, we must have concentration, but also balance, elegance and harmony,” says harmony,” “For me, we must have concentration, but also balance, elegance and
with great class and savor. And sensible prices! with great class and savor. imonnet’s is a polished domaine as small-growers as small-growers is a polished domaine imonnet’s
After sev G F
WINE how the wines taste // The wines are suave, creamy and refined, with a wines rather than vigorous, stylish the fruit. Silky, the palate. Old vines impart a palpable creaminess. The majority of years old, the oldest parcel (in Cramant) is most Bruts. and ripeness. And he goes on making his lovely we had, as you’ve three weeks after the end of the regular harvest. They achieved a potential considered normal) and we vinified them separately. unanimously, 28-hectare winery, therefore is it because good is which wine, enough a glance // 28-hectareGimonnet at winery, Gimonnet, I’m beginning to grok his thinking about to grok beginning I’m Gimonnet, also better able to I’m in his pantry. these “ingredients” unease at the new understand his cognitive alien terroirs They Vertus. and in Oger with which he has to work,
go, with his 28 hectares, the most in the Côte des Blancs. Blancs. des Côte the in most the hectares, 28 his with go, taste can now and you area, his reception renovated He’s to be. you know as the delicate ladies and gentlemen I find to wants Didier then But elegant. say, I dare is, It and some piece of information about a harvest gone by, I-Pad pulling it up on his up-to-the-minute of instead a decidedly pulls it from to be seen, in fact) he (nowhere data are all the notebook, where little ratty pocket-sized This I just love. hand. scribbled by
This is more than just word-wash for him. He’s constantly challenged by callow This is more than just word-wash for him. He’s alien Pinot the contained , which the scandalous Paradoxe And even help us, he has a Rosé. heaven rule with his100%Chardonnay irst hebreached And now, Noir. amazing, this man who has always insisted that more elegant Champagnes, blending is indispensible to creating planning a trilogy of single-commune wines from is now Cramant; Oger, the outstanding 2012 vintage. Chouilly, maybe just this once, he says. Uh huh! Didier is proof that you can’t just let the cat’s whiskers out of the bag; if any part whiskers of just let the cat’s can’t you that Didier is proof she all gets out. the cat gets out
66 Pierre Gimonnet Pierre
Côte des Blancs Pierre Gimonnet delicacy, berries,class, saltandumami,thecuvéeissymbiotic. 27.5% Cramant ,11.7%Oger, 14.8%Cuis and0.4% Vertus. impression Apreliminary (asit’s stillonthe lees)isoneof A preview; willbesoldlatein2013.It’s 90%CHand10%PNfrom Bouzy. Based on2011.35.8%Chouilly (Montaigu), Pierre GimonnetetFils“ size forme andmywife.My wifedoesn’t drink.” 2008 (72%).It’s cuvée133,infact.It Magnum years;isaperfect needstime,justafew thepotentialissplendid.“The The MAGNUM isnotthesamewine,butaDecember 15,2012disgorgementoftheNVtwoyears ago,i.e.,basedon mineral; onthefennel,carawayandwet-forest frequency, withablatantlychalkyfinish. It’s swank. oneisatypicalyoungThe new Gimonnet basedonacoolvintage–inthiscase 2010.It’s classyand asalways;articulate, complexity. It’s onereason thiswineissostylishandcomplex,even thoughithailsfrom asinglecommune—Cuis. 2008, thatmeansthe2008alsocontainsamélangeofmanydifferent vintages.So you have akindofchain-reaction of to their preserve freshness, and they are in fact (4.2%), 2007(5.2%)and2002(1%).But thisisn’t thewholestory. The winesare stored notintankbutMagnums “Cuvée 144”wasdisgorgedNovember 2012.It winesconsistof2009(9.8%),2008 buildson2010(80%),andthereserve you’ve neveryears, aged this wineafew believe me,you have noideahow stellaritis.End ofanecdote. The bottlewasdisgorgedin2009. That waswhy. Three-plus years onthecork andthewholethingistransformed.If any Blanc deBlancs NVwe’d ever had. isthebestbottleofGimonnet NVI’ve“This ever had,”we agreed. We bestbottlesof alsoagreed itwasamongthevery and foundabottleofGimonnet NVinthecoldbox. Lucky me. When itwasopenedmycompanionandIwere amazed. wanted Champagneandfigured they’d indulgemeespeciallyifIshared. So Iwandered intoD&Mwinesdown thestreet, Permit meananecdote.IwasonmywaytodinneratSPQRinSan Francisco, andtheyhave anall-Italian winelist.I Pierre GimonnetetFilsCuis1erCruBrut, Pierre GimonnetetFilsCuis1erCruBrut, Pierre GimonnetetFilsCuis1erCruBrut, guided at each issue that but nature isn’t wrong. to He and has the belly-richnessan extremely dry alone wine for his zero-dosage Oenophile Though hewasintriguedwhenIsuggestedit masculine; even 5%ofitinacuvéedominates Didier can’t see where it fitsinhisstyle. It’s too But happyasheistohave thisoutstanding tobacco,butsuave sweet-smoky likecherry Cramant iscomplexandincisive, notpowerful.
say, butheisconvincedthepress hasgottenitall
could easilyflim-flamit; weallknow therightthings N D Then camethe“ quite proud abouthisown, whichare generous. or shouldwe ever forgetthequestionofvinedensity. idier is very muchthegadflyas regardsidier isvery yields,
and managed. His honestyisbracing. We wantit tobesimple vine, how it’s andhow pruned itsproduction is
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the cuvée. the cuvée. the N.V. blends ofthose years. In other words, if I write—X–percent of The wine The wine .V., 3/1.5 .V., 12/375ml .V. different, vineyard,
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because through like none of a kindof low you have, andit’s standthantheytake. asmarter easy answers. They’ll sayyou’re scared totakeastand,but question andnotshrinkfrom itsintricacies,orinsiston me.” But hard the true, work isto actually think low yields are a must, andI want them to accept coolkids on thepersonyou thinkyou wanttobe.“The on suchscrapsofinformationasyou’ve accumulated–or anopinionbased wine, theeasythingistoformandassert neighbor’s. In thisasinallvalue-weighted questionsin yields” on paper, buthisyield-per-vine is lower thanhis grower whohas10,000mayhave whatlooklike“high In aregion where 8,000vinesperhectare iscommon,a
D yields in Champagne make forwinesof opacity, over-reduced sauces;blackholesofintensity idier believes andis delighted to tellyou that too
they are not;theyare justwhathesaystheyare. you have ever complainedhiswinesare dilute, which noflavor canemerge. He prizes instead
moderation, transparency, andelegance.And examine the KPG-1M KPG-1H KPG-5 KPG-1 7
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( j L xtra Brut, 2005 j E enophile” O pécial Club” Brut, 2005, 6/750ml j S good vintage, but like many vintages with high acidity and keen flowery aromas, it may go through a through go it may aromas, flowery keen and acidity high with vintages many like but vintage, good really 8 Disgorged September 2012, it’s a necessarily superficial look at a wine with decades in front of it, but that first impression impression first that but it, of front decades in with wine a at look superficial necessarily a it’s 2012, September Disgorged tea. is one of salt, bergamot and old BaoZhong Pierre Gimonnet et Fils “Millésime de Collection” Gimonnet Pierre Vielle Vignes de Chardonnay Brut, 2005, 3/1.5 de Chardonnay Vignes Vielle Pierre Gimonnet et Fils “ Pierre aerial and soaring than the usually more 2011; the wine is entirely Sept. tasted. Disgorged far the best ‘05 I’ve By a serious depth; conveys cloddish ‘05s; deeply mineral and very yet columns of freshness long, it seems to rise on thermal really I’m but ‘05, being – ‘05 Gimonnet classic quite not Darjeeling; trufflesblack and langoustines 2nd-flush and 57% Cramant, this vintage. Look for it the last part is possible from of this year. that such an expression touched to know aged vineyards. and mostly the venerably 30% Chouilly and 13% Cuis, 2012. disgorgement November New Pierre Gimonnet et Fils “Cuvée Pierre 45% the “heart (from terroir”), of the 23% Cramant 2012, it’s October dosage. Disgorged blend without The Fleuron pasta-water like fleshy, Stocky, severe. certainlyis wine The remotely not though strict Cuis. 24% and Oger 8% Chouilly, wine nakedly exposed a really unfathomable how it’s out after it was done. Chalk-dust. Honestly sifted the pasta when you like this could be so wonderful 2005. from Pierre Gimonnet et Fils “Fleuron” Brut, 2006 j Brut, Gimonnet et Fils “Fleuron” Pierre not a question “It’s of Didier’s; only because of a sage remark dosage of 6g/l mention the low 2012; I’ll October Disgorged of elements.” a question of sugar or acidity; it’s of the level would call y’all the kind of wine leesy and chalky, strikingly most masculine wine. It’s Gimonnet’s me this is usually For Already and pointedness. play of roundness gorgeously weird and pungent with `06’s “killer;” mussels and black pepper, another 7-10 years. it will hugely reward expressive, Pierre Gimonnet et Fils “Fleuron” Brut, 2006, 3/1.5 Brut, Gimonnet et Fils “Fleuron” Pierre ‘08 is a really really is a ‘08 Pierre Gimonnet et Fils “Cuvée Gastronome” Brut, 2008 Brut, Gastronome” “Cuvée et Fils Gimonnet Pierre Oger, Cuis, 16% 29% first time: 43% Chouilly, villages for the five The blend combines yet! it hasn’t mute phase—but Vertus. and 4% 7.5% Cramant then a youth and a floral jab of chalk. I sense comes a steely chalky customaryfervently floweriness refined After ‘08’s This ‘08 is ladylike, striking. length and detail are The arc. a 15-20 year over glorious maturity, midlife and a potentially lady. albeit a seriously determined 2012. disgorgement October New
Côte des Blancs Pierre Gimonnet zip-code ifyou score any. write anote,thinkingwe were justtastingfor fun.It isa++(+)experience though,andyou’ll betheluckiestpersoninyour drank late-disgorged(2012),andI didn’t alsovery thisyear –thevintagewas akindofleitmotifinourChampagnesojourn, asthere’sClub tobehad,ahistoricalartifact noCuis in theblend.It wasthefirst among aseriesofstupendous`89s we chalky andwithnoneofthisvintage’s steelydecadence.A++ wineatleast.Even more remarkably, there’s some1989Spécial Cramant, 25%Chouillyand30%Cuis, andthelate-disgorgedwineisinsanely chalky, elegantandcomplex;incisively bottleI’vevintage, every ever hadofithasbeensuperb (andIboughtaloton-release); it’s anatypicalblendforClub—45% Two olderwines,available intinyquantities… cup ofChampagnefun. refined. thoughthisismoreReminds meofHébrart, sapid,sternandchalky. disgorgement New Oct. ‘11,it’s aloving- Mareuil component. We shippeditlastyear, andit’s onlyimproved; yet focused, orderly offruit, stillagiddyparty and 66% Pinot Noir, 35%ofwhichisAÿ(Grand and31%from Cru) asiteinMareuil calledLesClefs. The Chard alsohasa Pierre GimonnetetFils“Paradoxe”Brut,2006j 1996 Spécial Club, oneofthestill-great winesfrom thatinscrutable
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Côte des Blancs Pierre Gimonnet
ger Grand Cru (chalk) O Côte des Blancs // Avize Côte des
trip trip vize Grand Cru, Cramant Grand Cru, vize Grand Cru, Cramant
topic topic A
Denis Denis
Champagne.” Champagne.”
who gives the the who gives
and his domaine and his domaine we really should. should. really we
ear making his first Champagne and we drank drank Champagne and we
small grower in Avize. And And in Avize. small grower that’s the Tête-de-Cuvée for for Tête-de-Cuvée the that’s
vineyard area // 4 hectares area vineyard // 3,000 cases annual production // villages & soil types 100% Chardonnay grape varieties // deserved; it’s excellent fizz. Then I Then fizz. excellent deserved; it’s arnier’s 1990 and we got perspective got perspective we 1990 and arnier’s
V
drinking “other” grower’s Champagnes Champagnes grower’s drinking “other”
have, I am affirmed and grateful. This This I am affirmed and grateful. have, wine.
is like looking at flavor through those those through is like looking at flavor (and education) but each time I return to to (and education) but each time I return
the back-straining work of the old Coquard of the old Coquard the back-straining work style is a theoretical hybrid of Pierre Péters Péters Pierre hybrid of a theoretical is style
those magnifying goggles the jewelers wear wear those magnifying goggles the jewelers they’re inspecting a stone? Drinking Denis’ Denis’ inspecting a stone? Drinking they’re are fastidious and etched; even his Rosé. You You his Rosé. fastidious and etched; even are The enis does full malo, and is another one who one who enis does full malo, and is another
Larmandier-Bernier, but the fruit is unique. The The but the fruit is unique. Larmandier-Bernier,
I had a colleague with me one y D I
Denis is a modern-looking gentleman Denis 10 1990 was great vigneron 4 hectare domainee with exclusively Grand Cru land. Young at a glance // Tiny, Varnier-Fannière making feline-snappy ultra-clear wines. what I already is small and so we don’t focus on him as don’t is small and so we for a glass of I had friends over Callot, another good Pierre it as it admired we opened a bottle of I enjoy in a hurry. for recreation the Clos Jacquin monocru the Clos Jacquin wines know when Champagnes spectacles. he hit upon the to Champagne, and for some reason during fermentations. control of temperature of me control the question thus: “For answered is an industrial way to produce temperature your computer, he could fix impression undertakes press. and and I also learned one possible reason he does in Avize, as hasasmuchlandinCramant t turnsoutDenis he micro- so silky and refreshing: his Champagnes are to use less sulfur and to in order the still wines oxygenates encourage the tertiaries to express. I’m on a total Varnier kick these days. I don’t know how Champagne can give more more give can Champagne how know don’t I days. these kick Varnier total a on I’m affectionate pleasure. Not only are they incisive in that graphite-y way, but they are but they are that graphite-y way, they in incisive only are Not affectionate pleasure. likeThey are They exude and fastidious detail. class dosage. as regards conceived correctly than pressure I learned this year they slightly lower have And the calligraphy of Avize. be why theyThis may and limpid. feel so silky 15-20% less. many Champagnes – about Varnier-Fannière
Côte des Blancs Varnier-Fannière before high-wire theend;thisisavirtuosic balancebetween seriousnessandseductiveness. mid-palate; it’s winsomeandastonishinglyhard tospitandatthe sametimeit’s seethinglyspicy;apotionofjasminejust pH of3.0–thewineisalmostextremely expressive, of`06’s laser-chalk,ofsuper-mineralparcels, butallwithathicker Avize and Cramant. Tiny quantity, stunningquality. From selected lots with the highest acidity – in this case 5.2g/l with j Varnier Fannière “GrandVintage” Brut,2006j more years, afterwhichitwillbecomeamélangeofoldvineyards from allthree communes. been. Andit’s nearingitsconclusion,thisspecificcuvée,becausethevineyard needs re-planting andsothere’ll bejustthree This hasanoutstandingGrand fragranceofpure Cru graphiteandapple;it’s anexegesis ofterroir, andasgreat asit’s ever Varnier-Fannière “Cuvée girlish one)withclarityandbreed abounding,likeanetherofBurgundy. andmore parfait ripetomato,anexcellentRosébefore, savory (thoughI’ll lessstrawberry misstheolddelicateflowery Pinot Noir from afinegrower inAmbonnaynamed Dethune, ona baseof Avize and Cramant. It’s alotmore vinousthan Disg Nov. ‘12. Acomplexblendandadeparture from itspredecessors; 30%‘08,40%‘09and‘10,with8%still Varnier Fannière your wayintosatisfaction,andexpress thesilkenchalkycharmofCôtedesBlancs. focused andclassyrefined, butithasnothingtoprove the loveliest balance!It’s justcharmingandtasty;whyshouldn’t awinemakeyou happy? This doesn’t pander;it’s digitally As alwaysone-third eachAvize-Cramant-Oger, half-half`09-`10,andasalwaysthisexcels from pure floralfocusand fruit, Varnier-Fannière GrandCruBrut, moderate itspointedness,butasitalwayshas,I’m sure itwillagain. mint family;the`08floweriness comeson;thepalateissaltyandalittlestock-likeas usual; itneedstimeonthecork to Avize and 20% Oger, half-half `07-`08, disgorged December 2012. Anincisive laser-focused fragrance in the green herb An Varnier-Fannière “CuvéedeJeanFannière homage tothestyleofwinehisgrandfathermighthave made,andthedriestwineinrange.40%Cramant, 40% R osé Brut, S aint-Denis” Brut, N .V. ( N .V. j j )
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Côte des Blancs Varnier-Fannière Côte des Blancs // Oger Côte des ger sits between Avize to the north and Le Mesnil to the north and Le Mesnil Avize ger sits between O ger Grand Cru (chalk) O a few sleepless nights, we’ve reached the best possible reached a few sleepless nights, we’ve Champagnes and thought outcome. I sat tasting this year’s these wines in the first place.” “This is exactly why I loved tempting to suppose its to the south, and though it’s those communes, I a stylistic bridge between wines are steep hillside land in Oger, more There’s see it otherwise. the wines more a lot of it on a south-facing hill that gives Gimonnet or Chouilly. Cramant than, say, generosity wines stony cool green alien to the them entirely finds is masculine and Oger him To his neighborhood. from but again, I see it otherwise. is big-bodied, Oger smoky,
vineyard area // 6 hectares area vineyard // 9,000 cases annual production // villages & soil types 100% Chardonnay grape varieties // es, and some fruit is purchased,
f you know the portfolio, you will maybe remember the portfolio, will maybe remember you know f you I The domaine is 6 hectar
than Milans had a few years where there were technical were there had a few where years than Milans which were for the reasons issues in many of the wines, The family was impeccably open and identified and fixed. I caused them sure with me, and though I’m transparent
one is still a Recoltante. of the 5% limit whereby in excess label, but this is see a little “NM” on Milan’s Thus you’ll who growers are There nothing to be concerned about. their cousins or other buy grapes, often from deliberately French tax flim-flamming of means a as often relatives, limit. the 5% laws, and in some cases they too exceed 12 They have that pencil-y minerality beneath the loveliest imaginable fruit. They arehow the wines taste // They have that pencil-y minerality beneath the loveliest imaginable fruit. They truly miss them. Prices are amazingly reasonable and availability is better than you’d expectexquisite wines. Just don’t from a small domaine. Wonderful discovery marvelousJean Milan at a glance // Wonderful in the heart of the Côte des Blancs. Champagnes of purity and focus.
If you’re new to this portfolio, then all you need to know is Milan is the best grower in is the best grower is Milan to this portfolio, new need to know all you then you’re If minerality and fruits and smokiness, between the needle and the wines thread Oger, and expressive. which is Oger at its most vivid Jean Milan Jean
Côte des Blancs Jean Milan yes, but it isn’t burly, and if I use a word like “queenly,” I stands alone—and is better for it. The Champagnes I’ll hope you’ll know I mean regal in a womanly way. offer you are all 100% Oger. In fact there are at least two faces of Oger. One is Milan’s 6 hectares are divided into 42 parcels; the overtly fruity and buttery, with pear and even stone fruit; average age of the vineyards is 43 years. Daughter Caroline they can make you think of Puligny. The other is a shady has really stepped forward of late, tttaking over most of the coolness, with some of the cucumber-saline savor of cellar work including creating the blends, and she’s the one west coast oysters. What I have yet to find in Oger are disgorging (mostly by hand) every two months. Her brother the Riesling-like green tea notes of Cramant, the Chenin prefers the vineyards, while their father moves slowly into face of Cuis, the deep earthiness of certain Mesnil, or retirement. A woman as powerful as Caroline is, let’s say, the orange-blossom notes of certain other Mesnil. Oger conspicuous in Champagne, and I admire her derring-do. Jean Milan
All these wines were disgorged in December 2012.
Jean Milan “Spéciale” Extra-Brut, N.V. j KML-2 This is back to being superb again; the best bottling in years. Half-half `08-`09, it has a wonderful fresh coolness, a perfect apple you eat in the shade, or a platter of Kumamotos on a breezy terrace—or both. It’s markedly long with a rich fresh- bready finish; an Extra-Brut that seems sweeter by sheer force of charm and length. I don’t remember a better edition of Côte des Blancs this impeccable wine.
Jean Milan “Sélection Terres de Noël” Brut, 2009 ( j ) KML-509 This single-parcel bottling can be one of the signature wines of the Côte des Blancs in its best years. 72-year-old vines, this tastes much drier than its 8g/l RS, and lands like one of the masculine 1er Cru Chablis; it’s round and chewy, almost like Peters’ Chetillons without the mass; it’s vinous and still muted from disgorgement.
Jean Milan “Grande Reserve 1864” Brut, N.V. j KML-11 It’s a blend of cask-aged wines from `03-`04, referencing an old, even atavistic style of Champagne—which explains the rope-enclosed seal. Good bottles of this Champagne are amazingly food-like, as if they wished to assume solid form, with the weight of antique furniture. This new rendition didn’t seem as oaky or as recherché as it’s been, but it’s murmury and autumnal, with a meditative length and a lot of forest-floor. Try not to serve it ice cold, and don’t look for “intensity” as much as depth and length. It’s a wise old soul of Champagne.
Jean Milan Rosé “Glamour” Brut, N.V. j KML-8 All 2010, 90% Oger Chard and 10% Bouzy PN, and if this unheralded vintage can give a wine this good, there’s hope I didn’t know about. Round and generously fruity; tomato-water and a tic of rhubarb; even just 10% of Bouzy is telling, with its meatiness spreading atop the chalk of Oger; the finish is delicate and reminded me of rhododendron honey. Buoyant and classy.
Jean Milan “Cuvée Tendresse” Sec, N.V. KML-4 The label is a portrait of a woman, Caroline’s great grandmother as a young wife, painted by her happy husband, Caroline’s grandfather, who baby-sat Caroline when she was a little girl. Caroline created the cuvée as a tribute to them both, this lovely adorable wine, formed in the pure love of a small girl. As always it’s the “Spécial” with more dosage, but not a lot more; 20g.l. in fact, on the dry side for the genre. This one was hard to taste, as it takes longer to assimilate a larger amount of dosage following disgorgement, but pink peppercorn and rosewater and celeriac, and a salty fennelly finish seemed to show. In effect you use this as you would a Kabinett wine; it even has hyacinth and wisteria notes, and lavender on the finish. Plus brioche and acacia-honey, with a suave sweet lick of hivebuzz. Where else can you get a “sweet” Champagne that’s 100% Grand Cru, apart from Selosse? I will be drinking lots of this and I have more testosterone than the entire World Wrestling Federation, so there.
13 to
the wines as starched, in common with Mosel
in the whole Côte des Côte whole the in anyone ger Grand Cru, O ger Grand Cru, regime. Péters is consolidating his regime. aybe Rodolphe e took us through our paces this year; seven vins seven our paces this year; e took us through t the beginning I had access to anyone I wanted in t the beginning I had access to anyone (Cretaceous chalk) inally there’s a new a called Reserve wine non-vintage inally there’s O F M A H Côte des Blancs // Le Mesnil-Sur-Oger Côte des
a vineyard out near the Mesnil-Vertus road in road Mesnil-Vertus out near the a vineyard Jolis, Mont and wants a feminine there, has six parcels the plain. He see We’ll wines of Chetillons. consort to the very “manly” was excellent. The vin claire in a few years. the results Alas, the the quantity of which is homeopathic. Oubliée, off the knee dustin’ so I’m wine is completely superb, pads. And when these wines are passionate and proud. He’s but especially for the past been forever on – as they’ve if wonder you – years three is better. Blancs and after many months of tasting and visiting Mesnil, only it was clear Péters was hors classe, an impression since. in the years strengthened malo) (including the experiments with avoiding claires and for each of the actual Champagnes, multiple cuvées. a harvestsRodolph later than his father did, so there’s to some cuvées that mimics sugar. phenolic “sweetness” a new muscle in your this way is like exercising Tasting it was, as it happened. how report I’ll body. high in acidity, they are exceptionally low in pH, which high in acidity,
e Mesnil-sur-
L vize Grand Cru A wines, a concentration of the minerally essence of the type, and straining at
palate and their trilling high notes of aroma. My best Germanpalate and their wine customers tend
Cramant Grand Cru, Cramant Grand Cru, vineyard area // 18.5 hectares area vineyard // 14,000 cases annual production // villages & soil types 100% Chardonnay grape varieties // as though the fruit wanted to burst free and run at full gallop. Lately I have described
e’s making a second single-vineyard wine now, Les wine now, making a second single-vineyard e’s odolph Péters is fastidious about these allocations. fastidious about is Péters odolph H R
When we tried to order after we’d already reached our reached already we’d after order to tried we When When I explained maximum, he seemed to be affronted. in nothing-gained proposition, it was a nothing-ventured taken their allocations, case another of his clients hadn’t want I allocations. their took clients all that me assured he to be him! wine in general, then these are like Saar gives them their attack on the 14 Let’s put it this way: if Blanc de Blancs Champagne has something put it this how the wines taste // Let’s As many of you discovered these are blow-your-mind Champagnes; you sold themyou sold Champagnes; discoveredof you Pierre Péters at a glance // As many are these blow-your-mind out in a flash! Crystaline, jewellike firmnessmealy depth give these a Krug-like profile nearly unique and immense among Blanc de Blancs. the leash for they have that crisp stiffness. Though not exceptionally prefer these to any Champagne I offer.
First the headlines. The estate is now up to twenty hectares. However, this won’t prevent prevent won’t this However, hectares. twenty to up is now estate The headlines. the First and you in 2013, both we and so starting our allocations, maxing out now, us from out-of-stocks by the have or we’ll purchase, and what we going to need to plan how are middle of October. Pierre Péters Pierre
Côte des Blancs Pierre Péters What willbeshippedtous—assuming we getany—is2008-basedandoughttobeeven better. the thingsyou desire from Champagne buthave hadtoageyourself. wine withanywoodflavor. expressive Andthewinewasexplosive, wonderfully andnot “mature” all butindeedtertiary; time Ihave heard ofthis;furthermore, itwasagedina60-literbarrel ofoldwoodfrom Cognac,makingittheonlyPéters bottled in2009andagedonthecork. Most intriguingly, thedosageisamust-concentratetheymadein-house, thefirst “mature butnotoxidative,” andwhatItastedwasthe“perpetual reserve” basedon2007,keptintankanadditionalyear, This isallabitofmystery, andIsupposeit’ll supply, beinterriblyshort but—theintentwastoofferanNVthat Pierre Péters“ are guarded coquettishly. AndthoughI’d liketoknow, Idon’t needtoknow, because thewineisconvincing. The Chardonnay (from aclimat calledMusette) isblendedwithmaceratedPinot Meunier, thespecificdetailsofwhich other words: Peters! jelly, richandvinous,arosé uniqueintheCôtedes inthesolidvein, thatdefiedcategorizationandisvirtually Blancs. In as thebalancehere it’s seemsperfect; later disgorgements.Iwoulddecideotherwise, allultra-ripetomatoesandrhubarb Based on2010with 20%oftheprevious blend. This disgorgementhas8g/lRS,whichhe’s contemplatingreducing with Pierre Péters the meaty`05,withlessespresso-savor than`02or`00.Ending notesofchartreuse. blastsofchalkandmint;it’s andrecherchéis anobvious masterpiece,lessearthy than`05;tertiary finer-grainedthan Disgorged November 2012.Animposingfragranceleadstoafoamy, fleshypalate;there’s here, nothinginscrutable this Pierre PétersCuvée Pierre PétersCuvée Superbly elegantandintricateforthevintage.Likely++quality. We previewed the2009also. Back toovert charm.Rodolph plus“a saysquinceandpinkgrapefruit, touchofsunlight.” “straight” andlogical.`06ismore andscrupulous flattering:`08more incisive. palate issleektothepointoffeelingstretched; it’s drierthanthe`06was,more sinewy, flavors; withlongoystery quite Disgorged December `12;ithasthesweetest fragranceofanyvintagesince`02,really high-tonedwhitehyacinth; the Pierre PétersMillésimeBrut, 2008j oyster shell. Time onthecork willreally reward thiswine. perhaps more overtly chalky, lesshyacinthandwisteriabutmore jasmine.Surprisingly denseyet pixilatedpulverized Finally the2010,disgorgedinDecember 2012.It wasgnarlyfrom disgorgement,butwithtimeitwillresemble the`08; Then we tasted the `09-based wine we shipped last year. It’s rounder and saltier, more brioche. Flowers in `08, butter in `09. This `08-basedwineishyper-aromatic; itwasthebestinmanyyears, andit’s theoneIhave inmycellarrightnow. oldwine.Or you quantityofvery couldsayitisamatureiteration containsacertain solerathat’s constantlyrefreshed. call a“perpetual solera,”whichmeanstheNVcontainswhichever vintageiscurrent, plustheprevious blend,andsoeach First we tastedthe2008-basedwine,whichwe hadonthemarket twoyears ago. whatthey Bear inmind—Pétersperforms Pierre Péters“Cuvéede Pierre Péters“Cuvéede Pierre Péters“Cuvéede Pierre Péters“Cuvéede R R osé “For eserve S S péciale “ péciale “ O A R R R R ubliée” Brut, lbanne” Brut, éserve” Brut, éserve” Brut, éserve” Brut, éserve” Brut, L L es Chétillons”Brut,2006,3/1.5 es Chétillons”Brut,2006j N ( N .V. N N N N j ) .V. .V., 1/3.0 .V., 6/1.5 .V., 12/375mlj .V. j
L L j j
j L j
j
KPP-306M KPP-310 KPP-306 KPP-208 KPP-1M KPP-1H KPP-1A KPP-1J KPP-4 15
Côte des Blancs Pierre Péters
in
land 75% fruit.
Crus
KMH-6
averaging
juicy
this portfolio, for Jean-
75% Pinot Noir from the
Cru (chalk) , Oiry, and Mareuil there’s and Mareuil , Oiry, fermentation in petite cuvée, er
r 1 O dly matters whether you’re in the “fruit” in the “fruit” dly matters whether you’re I really like. al d’
iry Grand Cru, Chouilly Grand Cru,iry Grand Cru, Chouilly e always been fond of these wines, but either e always been fond of these wines, but O venay V A Vallée de la Marne // Mareuil-Sur-Aÿ Vallée I hav As such it har Cru, gotten less stupid, because in gotten better or I’ve they’ve I find them almost without peer, years the past several in Champagne. not only in this portfolio but anywhere of few if any wines that so deftly I know why. you tell I’ll with the utmost focus combine the utmost fruit expression a about it. As a ruleThink reach when you and precision. the certain one precludes point in either fruit or precision, fruithi-def get clarity such of you Here here! Not other. could taste each grape. you swear you that fils Jean-Paul began to grow it, joining the Club began to grow Jean-Paul that fils — all 1er Cru. It’s d’Or Val and Avenay in Bisseuil with vineyards and 25% Chardonnay, Noir Pinot The wines undergo malo. old. 36 years camp camp or the “rock-head” camp or the “terroir” something” camp or just the “indefinable-Champagne- everything all of you you’d because these wines will give want. ever 1985. Along with Chouilly er oir, 30% Chardonnay oir, N
vize Grand Cru, 1983 A
wonderful
Cru, Bisseuil 1 er commits to it.
j .V. ÿ 1 N A unlike any I know unlike any I know
erzy but richer, far erzy but richer, power of Verzenay, Verzenay, of power than Aÿ, altogether
V Noir sites of the Vallée de la Marne with Grand Cru Chardonnay sites in the Noir sites of the Vallée
e were talking about e were Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Avenay Val d’Or and Bisseuil and 25% Chardonnay from the Grand the Chardonnay from 25% and Bisseuil and d’Or Val Avenay Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Burgundy, Mareuil could well could well Mareuil Burgundy,
Mareuil sur Mareuil vineyard area // 15.5 hectares area vineyard // 8,750 cases annual production // villages & soil types grape varieties // 70% Pinot grape varieties // ed, the second filtered two days ed, the second filtered of
or environmental conscience. or environmental
Hébrart’s wines are buoyant and lithe with deft integrations of minerality and minerality areof wines integrations deft with lithe and buoyant Hébrart’s
Blancs. uit of Mareuil Pinot Noir is Noir Pinot uit of Mareuil
t’s not that we’re sneering at bio-d in any way. I sneering at bio-d in any way. not that we’re t’s ean-Paul has 15 hectares now, thanks to the purchase of thanks to the purchase now, has 15 hectares ean-Paul The estate as such exists since 1963, but it was in I The fr J This came up when w The first was unfilter
eat 1er Cru vineyards Cru eat 1er
news. He now has sixty-eight different parcels. has sixty-eight different now news. He than less smoky perfumeysoftly less Ambonnay, than if it were Indeed Cumières.
the practice and any vintner who respect be Morey-St.-Denis.
biodynamics. You can probably infer the rest. can probably You biodynamics. to right the claim who outsiders are respect not do I What moral judge a grower’s in Champagne: firmer and less malty not unlike less chunky than Bouzy, comme il faut than the savage more before. An interesting moment to pay a call on one’s moment to pay a call on one’s An interesting before. eh? assumption that filtration is always evil, which is two new in Aÿ and one in Avize, parcels how the wines taste // Hébrart represents a departure from the other producers in Chouilly and Oiry in the Côte des Blancs. Hand selected grapes, Bucher pressing, malolactic, hand remuage. wines marry the top Pinot Paul’s That said, he does produce a Blanc de Blancs from Oiry and Chouilly which 16 Exciting producer in the Vallée de la Marne producing Marc Hébrart at a glance // Exciting producer in the Vallée des Côte Marc Hébrart Blanc de Blancs Brut, Hébrart Marc more There’s 80% `09 and 20% `08-`07. wine is 40% Oiry 2012, the October and 60% Mareuil. and Chouilly Disgorged Cru solidity (because as mineral, long and with Grand still lithe and incisively `08, but it’s rapturous than last year’s power start singing later this year. and this wine will really be better, Cru); balance couldn’t is Grand concerned Mareuil far as I’m
There’s always a surprise here. We were tasting vins clairs and two samples were samples were tasting vins clairs and two were We here. always a surprise There’s more was 2nd the while oak, its showing and clunky a little was first the poured, the same wine. were They and higher toned. refined Marc Hébrart Marc gr
Vallée de la Marne Marc Hébrart in itwascuriouslylong.One towatch. from Mareuil. Normally oneofmyfavorite Rosés, thisonewasstinginglyyoung andrathermuted,aloof, yet something Disgorged November 2012, and 50% 2010 CH from Mareuil, 41% 2010-2009 PNfrom Mareuil, and 9% stillred 2009 Marc Hébrart Disgorged September 2012. the winehasdepthandsex-appeal. ofway;saltyandstockybrown-butterywithevenextravagantly somecarob. manlysort Airawakensthearomas, and withelusive fragrance,butnotovertly‘06 starts oaky;thepalatethoughis more explosive, richand generous inan Wary asIamofoakywines,loved how the‘04developed and it’s clearIwastoocautious,andunderratedit. This (Justice) andChouilly(Montaigu).CH from Oiry Disgorged 5Nov. ‘11.Unfiltered, nocold-stabilization,ambient yeasts. The wineisvinifiedin3rd-use barriques. It’s 50%AÿPN(from Chauzelles andLongchamp)50%old-vines Pruche, Marc Hébrart“ astonishingandendlessfinishthatdefinescomplexitybeauty. allleadingtoatruly bewitching, plusthedancinganimation ofallitshundredthis isgreat elements;Champagneatitsmost winethathaseverything, at itsmostsublime.Lunar, mysticaromas, it’s whythevintageissoexquisite andpotentiallygreat. Andnomistake— Disgorged November 2012,theblendissameasabove `07-vintage,butthisisofanotherorder, andshows 2008 The singlebestyoung wineItastedinChampagnethisyear, andasgooditgets. Marc Hébrart“ ludicrous length. and onlyanipofsteelindicatesthecoolvintage.Lacy, intricatesun-on-snow poiseofwarmthandbrilliance,just Disgorged Nov. `12, it’s 60% PN from Mareuil andChouilly. and Aÿ, and40%CH from Oiry The aromas are expressive, was approved assuch,butthequantitywastoo smalltobottleasClub. It’s now hadthetimeIfeltitneededwhen Itastedandbypassed itayear ago. This wasinfacttheSpecial Clubblend, and Marc Hébrart“Prestige” Brut,2007( OF THEVERYBEST VALUEScox-orange. AnditisONE PORTFOLIO!!!IN THIS It’s superb, aparadigmofChampagneatitsmostelegant andseductive. Long,lacyfinishoftalc,chalkpower, jasmineand Mareuil &Chouilly. and35%CHfrom Oiry This isthebestbottlingIcanrecall. Disgorged Oct. `12,it’s 80%2008and20%`07-`06.65%old-vinesPNfrom Champagne, thisisfocusedandprecise andvinous. a timiddrinkerthattheChampagnesdon’t taste“weird,” itwouldbethisone.Butmainstream unlikenearlyevery Champagne flavors (brioche,saffron, lobster). If Ihadtopickjustonesinglewinefrom thiswholehappymessto reassure This ostensibly “superior” NV isn’t exactlybetter;it’s different. Higher-toned, more of what we normallythinkof as Marc Hébrart“ round `nred yet aspointedanacupuncture needle. The equipoisebetween isstriking. chalk-dustandsweet fruit butiscirrus-clear,fruit withthetexture ofcoolsteel. This one’s ateenybitslimmerthanlastyear—that’s 2010—but and 18%CH(from Mareuil). One ofthemostimprobable PN-based NVsinallofChampagne,ithaseuphoricvarietal Disgorged Oct. `12,andnow 60%2010to40%`09-`08.It’s 82%PN(from Mareuil, Aÿ,Avenay Val d’Or andBisseuil) Marc Hébrart“Cuvéede Marc Hébrart“Cuvéede R R S S osé Brut, pecial Club”Brut2008,6/750ml j élection” Brut, ive-Gauche- R R N éserve” Brut, éserve” Brut, .V. R KMH-5 KMH-5 ive-Droit” GrandCru N .V.j j j ) N N
.V., 12/375ml( .V. (
j )
E xtra Brut,2006j j )
KMH-706 KMH-706 KMH-308 KMH-407 KMH-1H KMH-2 KMH-1 17
Vallée de la Marne Marc Hébrart
and vivacious
searching, but instead direct
oh-so-easy to love.
Cru (Cretaceous chalk, er Vallée de la Marne // Aÿ Vallée ÿ 1 estate that’s existed for less than 60 that’s estate
A
oir, 25% Chardonnay, 5% Pinot Meunier 5% 25% Chardonnay, oir, N in
was ÿ Grand Cru, Mareuil sur ÿ Grand Cru, Mareuil
A Pinot Pinot just a as he’s as he’s
chance
reached reached popular
the “top- the
Chambolle, Cramant and Cramant
or class. If, as I’ve as I’ve class. If,
out for its special
preclude a great refinement and class! It means they are
limestone) 70% Pinot grape varieties // vineyard area // 22 hectares area vineyard // 10,000 cases annual production // villages & soil types ’re in form, they show a sensuous generosity a sensuous generosity form, they show in ’re oblem of the potato-y aroma has peeked in at oblem of the potato-y aroma Goutorbes are a Grand Family of Champagne, and this domaine embodies the generous
m also really pleased to find a supplier for Aÿ pleased to find a supplier also really m f you’ve visited the region recently there’s a fair there’s recently visited the region f you’ve
The pr I’ I When they years, but how the wines taste // They are ripe and extravagant; they are seldom mystic or side of the region. and delicious. This doesn’t 18 “Venerable” might be an apposite term for an Henri Goutorbe at a glance // “Venerable” gone. entirely it isn’t this house, and while it is improving which echelon, Club Special the at all at there not It’s odd skew an Club outsells the as numbers, our in creates go and come wines individual see might You NV. basic the dubious things away. this offering, as I screen from everything; perfect and know it’s because I’m This isn’t abilities, about my own any doubt, even because if there’s trust gamble with your for its benefit. I won’t one of the leading vine-nurserymen.When word Verzenay, Aÿ, Ambonnay, Crus are 5” Grand and for me Aÿ has always stood Mesnil, malt and blueberry and overall aromas
a grape-grower you’re If few the winery. steps from Goutorbe, certainly almost Champagne you know in export, I me they would indeed be interested delighted that no one had grabbed them. among fizz-heads that a consensus There’s last. at Volnay is Ambonnay written elsewhere, and a suave maltiness that typify Champagne for many maltiness and a suave and an atypical precision they also show drinkers. But them as growers. character that identifies terroir
These are the most conservative also say, in this collection—or I could of the Champagnes These are the least radical. you know the family, as they’ve opened the very as they’ve the family, know you in Aÿ, Castel Jeanson and badly needed Hotel Henri Goutorbe Henri then Aÿ is Vosne-Romanée. then Aÿ is
Vallée de la Marne Henri Goutorbe Aÿ blueberry ismarkedly vividhere, andthesmellof season’sAÿ blueberry firstfresh Sockeye. slimmed down and became tastyandelegant,soIwonderwhetherthisheavy-footednessinmany`09sisjustaphase. The length andwithasternnessthe`09sseemtobeshowing. Iremember feelingthesameway about`99s,whichthen Disgorged 12/12,and now all`09,35%CHand65%PN. The wineisrounder andmore generous thanlastyear’s, with Henri Goutorbe and blueberry. it; it’s aproud wineandquiteseductive, doughierthanmany`04s,withnotesofclementineandSatsuma, sweet straw JanuaryAs alwaysthisis100%old-vinesAÿ,andnew 2013disgorgementwillhave recovered by thetimeyou taste success thanthe‘02,ayear wheneveryone’s wineswere outstanding. with acoolstringofverbena, thewineissilly-longforitsbrilliance,anditwillfleshoutundercork. Amore dramatic the richnessof‘02,withall‘04stensileprecision andhigh-definition relief andincisiveness; theusualmaltispaired You aren’t bitasgoodthe2002.It’s goingtobelieve me,butthiswineisevery different, naturally;it’s thegranitaafter Henri Goutorbe“ I’m sofondofit.So, thisispotentiallythebestit’s beenforatleastthree years. solid, elegant and classic of itsmalty type, with aspects of mirabelle and sweet straw; the way it alwaysisand the reason I tasteditfrom different minutestheChampagnebecame kindsofglasses,andwhatseemedtohappenwas,afterafew However, thiscleared awayinabouttwominutes,andwasnever present onthepalate.So, um—??? This was disgorged in July 2012; it’s based on `07 with “15-20% `06” and I was surprised when the fragrance was `tatery. Henri Goutorbe“CuvéePrestige” Brut, R osé Brut, S j j pécial Club”Brut,2004,6/750mlj N .V.
N .V.
KGO-204 KGO-3 KGO-1 19
Vallée de la Marne Henri Goutorbe that ved. ved.
ser
undergo interesting interesting fruit, more fruit, more
Cru, er always
oir N quite low in dosage, quite low
richness.
sell! Which is lucky for us,
Cru, Hautvillers 1 er They split the difference between
was “correct” and a little bland and bland little a and “correct” was ripest they’re slim and even at their ÿ 1
Vallée de la Marne // Dizy Vallée A were surprised with a bottle and two flutes were
opportunities to drink the Big Fella, but Fella, opportunities to drink the Big They areThey They areclassical, not romantic. our room when we checked into a hotel we checked into a hotel we when we our room and I felt sad that it represented “Champagne” “Champagne” and I felt sad that it represented
bottle.... Curiosity got the better of me, and we opened got the better of me, and we Curiosity style they have in common. Mind you, I don’t I don’t you, common. Mind in have they style
practices are another story, but the wine held up another story, practices are
certain scrupulousness. The parent-company’s The parent-company’s certain scrupulousness. Of course it was the Brut Imperial, and it was a Imperial, course it was the Brut Of
Champagne anteuil la Forêt (chalk and clay)
be. There’s a There’s be. should & Chandon’s is what Moët was at Chiquet less than a week later and played later week a than Chiquet less was at N ve sometimes heard myself say that Chiquet’s myself say that Chiquet’s sometimes heard ve much worse. I felt it was an industrial wine made much worse. I felt it was an industrial many unwary people, who probably don’t think they many unwary don’t people, who probably
I’ I volume that’s churned out, this wine might have out, this wine might have churned that’s volume Champagne and wonder why it costs so much. Yet at Yet much. Champagne and wonder why it costs so same time I felt considerable admiration; considering same time I felt considerable admiration;
oët back in my head when Nicolas’ N.V. was N.V. Nicolas’ when head my in back oët
malolactic, but the Champagnes are M more character in everyChiquet has more way, diction, just more clearer interplay of flavors, and tasty. to so like the the business its end. European this Pinot Noir town. Their base wines base Their town. Noir Pinot this caramelly a suave they have yet N.V. walnutty clamor for one time we waiting in frequent. The it. been with a featureless, overtly fruity ones.
ÿ Grand Cru, Mareuil sur ÿ Grand Cru, Mareuil A hectares. hectares. probably probably
45% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Meunier, 20% Pinot 35% Pinot Meunier, 45% Chardonnay, is Champagne
Mareuil-sur- emerge from emerge from
well. I am struck I am well.
wines are. I usually wines are.
Crugny, Crugny, Cru (belemnite chalk); get the attention some terroir in Chiquet. Chiquet. in terroir pure wrote they were “quiet “quiet they were wrote
er fruity, but really they are they are but really fruity,
gorgeous, hedonistic wines that everyone can cozy up to.
grape varieties // grape varieties // Dizy 1 vineyard area // 23 hectares area vineyard // 18,300 cases annual production // villages & soil types like their maker!
They taste like the wines of a man who respects his land.
character of place—if you want character of place—if you
an excellent introduction. Chiquet’s Chiquet’s introduction. an excellent
e sensually in the Grande Vallée de la Marne. de la Marne. Vallée in the Grande show well young, thanks to the forward young, well show the wines of the Grande Vallée should Vallée the wines of the Grande
their Marne terroirs. Yet with their balance Yet terroirs. their Marne Brut Tradition, as I’ve seen from several old several seen from as I’ve Tradition, Brut
they can also age extremely well, even the even well, they can also age extremely wines combine a generous depth of fruitwines combine a generous
dating all the way back to 1964.”
yet in a way we’re tasting we’re way in a yet
e sell a lot of Chiquet, though I sense the eter Liem writes: “This is one of the finest
And
This is a large estate as Récoltants go, with 23 W P
tallest they’re willowy. reallythe the and Champagnes mineral adamantly thoughtful but not aloof, 20 They taste focused, refined and friendly. Even at their how the wines taste // They taste focused, refined and friendly. Gaston Chiquet at a glance // 23 hectare estate means we can get some wine to
I drank a glass of the NV while out to dinner recently. And as I did I felt the same as I did I felt And recently. of the NV while out to dinner I drank a glass it so perfectlybecause that wine, feel for I always affection and admiration threads not jumping through fruit. and its forward It’s its silken precision the needle between craftsmanship. just saturated with caring and it’s of terroir, hoops of fire Gaston Chiquet Gaston because these ar
think of them as either chalky or often because they don’t heroes,” what make they which from Aÿ, in and Aÿ Champagne to the only all-Chardonnay
wines generally fruitiness of me as is in some way misunderstood. By chiseled and articulate Nicolas’ how by I and thorough. careful precise, of the others do. in Hautvillers, vineyards Chiquets have examples to know what to know and depth non-vintage grower estates grower with a pronounced feel like, these are Chiquet’s Except for the definite Meunier fruit of the NV, nearly all Meunier fruit of the NV, for the definite Except the Chardonnay even anti-varietal, of the other wines are a dialect and more a Chardonnay Aÿ, which is less from usually hear. don’t of Aÿ we
Vallée de la Marne Gaston Chiquet finish. It helps if you likeacorpulentwine,andImaybetoocritical.suspect minewillbetheminorityview… hard tobelieve there’s no red init.Ithinkitneedstimetowork outacharred, fruit scorched notethatextendsintothe I preferred lastyear’s `08—thoughIalsolikethisone.It wasdisgorgedinOctober `12,andit’s smokyandalmostburly; Nicolas himselftendstolikehisstronger vintages whereas Itendtolikehisfiligree floweryones. So helikesthis`09and the Pinot Noir thatalmostalwaysexpresses it,orispresumed to. one ofthegrandPNterroirs inChampagne.Ithinkit’s stillthesolechancetoseepure Aÿterroir abstractedawayfrom are usedtothisby now,Y’all butwhenIfirstintroduced itbackin1997waspretty radtohave 100%Chardonnay from Gaston ChiquetBlancdeBlancsd’ than usual,itshows more; italsohas thelengthandthatadamantsternnessof`09,especiallyred-grape cuvées. it’s editionofthisreliably around, almostearthy lip-smacking wine;energeticyet graceful,andwhileithaslessMeunier most oftheNVsare now basedon2010,sothisismore poisedandrelaxed. It’s 40%Meunier, 35%CHand25%PN, woozyinexpressivetasting cruelly wines.So: thisisdisgorgedinJuly `12;it’s 82%2009,8%2008and2007.Again, Something Ijustlove aboutNicolas ishereally doescare aboutadjustinghisdisgorgementschedulessowe’re notalways Gaston Chiquet“Tradition” Brut, Gaston Chiquet“Tradition” Brut, Gaston Chiquet“Tradition” Brut, Gaston ChiquetBlancdeBlancsd’ N N N .V., 3/1.5 .V., 12/375ml .V. A A ÿ Brut, ÿ Brut,
L N N
.V., 3/1.5 .V.
L KCQ-2M KCQ-1M KCQ-1H KCQ-1 KCQ-2 21
Vallée de la Marne Gaston Chiquet
KCQ-8 KCQ-304 KCQ-305 KCQ-405 KCQ-704M to avoid cork. It was sensational, It cork. to avoid
j ) (
j L
ÿ Brut, 2004, 3/1.5 A
\ .V. N pécial Club” Brut, 2005, 6/750ml j osé Brut, S R 22 NOTE: all this talk about the “burly” 2009s prompted Nicolas to open a 1989 Club, as it was another low-acid year that was year as it was another low-acid to open a 1989 Club, Nicolas 2009s prompted all this talk about the “burly” NOTE: it upright this bottle in 1995 and stored He disgorged at first. thought to be maybe a bit graceless been a `71 or `70; militantly splendid and gorgeously “sweet.” classic `89 smoke, could have an imposing amazing fragrance, full of noisy genius, this wine; no repose smokes and heaven-fruits. It’s the complexity of all these different to comprehend Hard time to time. welcome from fine; an alpha is That’s to be gleaned. vintage, disgorged June 2012. It has the magnum-stiffness to start, an then it’s like you’re watching the watching like you’re has the magnum-stiffness to start, an then it’s 2012. It This is the 2004 vintage, disgorged June sleek tarragon-cut with verbena complexity; glowing fruitmetal melt, and then that cool magnum and that serene arrives, not a patient guy… years? I’m we wait 5 something is still encased in ice. Can as it is now, and flint. As pretty and chartreuse Gaston Chiquet Blanc de Blancs d’ Disgorged June `12. It’s the acceptable face of `05, the scent of fresh white mushrooms or impeccably good oyster oyster or impeccably good white mushrooms of `05, the scent of fresh the acceptable face `12. It’s June Disgorged a good stiff chalky heavy and there’s case on the palate; it isn’t chalkiness; it makes a strong and a delicate mushrooms, grapeseed oil, not quite the finish was like cold-pressed and The length feels almost slender, length and a doughy richness. impressed. I’m nutty. and 33% d’Aÿ Blancs de Blanc the sites that also give the steep Chardonnay in Aÿ, 33% from flat vineyards 33% from It’s climat, the Colombier.” best “our from Hautvillers, PN from was concerned all Nicolas in 2014, possibly alongside the new 2007 Club. for release some 2004 Club in reserve there’s (NOTE: its best.) showed it really before the`04 would vanish Gaston Chiquet “ Disgorged August `12, and all 2009. Where the `08 was like a potion of blossoms, this is like roasted green tomatoes. It’s tomatoes. It’s green this is like roasted the `08 was like a potion of blossoms, Where `12, and all 2009. August Disgorged better balanced it’s and sizeable robust and while it’s The fruit is just lovely, is half-half `08-`09. assemblage; the still-red less dosage side in acidity and thus received big and chewy low enough. 2009 was on the it’s than many `09s, though than it often needed. Gaston Chiquet Millésime Brut, 2005 Millésime Gaston Chiquet Gaston Chiquet The `04 ought to be available until October, so we’ll see the year out with this vintage. It’s the same disgorgement we’ve we’ve disgorgement same the It’s this vintage. with out year see the so we’ll October, until available to be ought `04 The those wines that 40%CH), one of (60% w. PN statement singular and lovely a it remains always had—Sept.`11—and chervil, thyme, basil oil, mizuna, burdock, included blueberry, times at various mine have zillion associations; attracts a hips. chalk and rose Sencha, and very in fact quite promising, so clean.) and mussel-y, toasty (The rusky, `05 was Gaston Chiquet Millésime Brut, 2004 j Brut, Millésime Chiquet Gaston
Vallée de la Marne Gaston Chiquet his vibrant, fruityChampagnes. René Geoffroyata glance // Baptiste (or“JB” aswe know him)addedatwist. Last year we were greeted with the prospect of a fascinating tasting of dosage, but Jean- Arriving atGeoffroy issometimeslikesteppingontoafast-moving treadmill. villages &soiltypes//Cumières 1 annual production //10,400cases vineyard area //14hectares R Ampelos Certification//lutteraisonnée grape varieties//41%Pinot must concentrateisgoing intoChampagneswhose and ittroubles methatconventional Languedocgrape- you that the only source desire. is the Languedoc, I worry so you can uselessandstillobtainthesense-of-sweetness cheaper towork with,anditconveys aheaviersweetness, wariness. a certain the methodJBprefers, andoneaboutwhichIhave voiced liqueur and“MCR”(basicallymust-concentrated-rectified), dosage levels aswell asdifferent types ofdosage;traditional
wines reflect hisenthusiasm. wines reflect T W o remind you, Iknow thatMCRiseasierand ené Geoffroy e wouldtasteasingleChampagnewithfive different
Jean-Baptiste Geoffroy is the most fanatical wine-freak I know in Champagne and IknowinChampagne and Jean-Baptiste Geoffroyisthe mostfanaticalwine-freak N oir, 37.5%PinotMeunier, 21.5%Chardonnay Red-grape dominated cuvées from a locally warm microclimate Red-grape dominatedcuvées fromalocallywarm er Cru(calceroussoils,sandstoneandclay)
drier thanI’d have preferred intheory, anditusedMCR. it wasn’t. And thoughitwasmypersonalfavorite, itwas i.e., sample#4tastedsweetest tofourofthefive ofus. But We were alignedinthesense-of-sweetness, almostperfectly was used. perceived sweetness put metothetest. We wouldlineupthewinesinorder of comparisons, I’ve preferred thetraditionalliqueur. So JB organics. Up tillnow, whenI’ve beenabletotastedirect producers are wonttospeakofterroir andsometimesof W e were five: mycolleaguesandme and Peter Liem. Vallée //Cumières delaMarne and would guess whichtype of dosage
create thrilling, thrilling, create 23
Vallée de la Marne René Geoffroy vineyards vineyards
among the
here; indeed, here; land
so a fine collection of collection fine a so their acidity, which I their acidity,
Cumières, Hautvillers, Hautvillers, Cumières, (in some instances) by (in some instances) by
throughout the region. the region. throughout
finer still with a wee bit finer still with a 42% Pinot Noir, 39% Noir, 42% Pinot
in wood, and Geoffroys in wood, and Geoffroys
And
and he wants to preserve understand why. His wines His understand why. they are sold. This is a very sold. they are time to hold onto wines for how dryhow he wants them to
musts are never centrifuged never musts are
which also increases the quality which also increases
from the press, but at Geoffroy they but at Geoffroy the press, from
the deuxième taille (second press), gradually the deuxième taille (second press), rougher. Usually the cuvée consists of the Usually rougher.
finest. Then there‘s the première taille (first the première Then there‘s finest. which formalizes a set of practices just a baby- practices a set of which formalizes
ear I had the impression JB was also seeing the ear I had the impression press is known as the cuvée, and is deemed is and cuvée, the as is known press of certifiably organic, and enforces the protocols of certifiably the protocols organic, and enforces
ost of you know in Champagne the first juice know ost of you the o begin with, consider Cumières. This Marne Valley Valley This Marne o begin with, consider Cumières. random inspections.
This y T M the best or how soon after disgorgement how restrict it to 1,800 liters, restrict be Champagnes could, I believe, is celebrated red still Geoffroy’s and pressing) thinner and The taille. of the première fermented Many are or fined. malolactic at all costs. I avoid warm vineyards, come from And he does preserve their acidity. would argue is at odds with Which in turn is exacerbated be. successful domainee, with no flexibility on the RS question. more question as one of balance, rather than trying to “force” was any sort of mean to imply there I don’t the wines dry. just talk as We it. him and me; far from debate between colleagues who can be candid. viticulture) with village is one of the few in Champagne whose red-grape It is start to first harvest. the Damery and Fleury-la-Rivìere, from first 2,000 liters disgorgement. post months 6-9 step short usually all exposed to the southeast, and it’s are in 14 hectares own The Geoffroys 19% Chardonnay. Meunier, a rue.
always
varieties varieties in effect,
planted
more; everythingmore; be can
altitudes.
ved into brand newved quarters in street as Deutz and on the same street as and on the same street as Deutz street
excited what this means is that the most excited
or what the Germans call “integrated” call “integrated” or what the Germans year we taste it in various stages, and it’s coming it’s and stages, various in it taste we year
the so-called “Lutte Raisonnée” (or “sustainable (or “sustainable Raisonnée” the so-called “Lutte
e’s joined a group called “Ampelos” which called “Ampelos” joined a group e’s omething’s always up at Geoffroy. He’s Geoffroy. at up always omething’s H S Each The family has mo field-blend in one parcel consisting of all five field-blend in one parcel practice culture,” 24
This place rocks. The winery is constructed so that Jean- This place rocks. has to pump any never Baptiste any firm idea how along, though neither JB nor I have is seriously vin Claire The 2012 it will ultimately taste. field- famous (the Nussberg a of me reminding good, saw a 2009-base still We vineyards). Vienna blend from en tirage in magnum, and a 2008, neither of which were, open for inspection. A bottle of 2010 with 50% say, let’s the shape of the beast. of the `08 mag started to show be will surely see. It nutty—but we’ll seems basically It “fruity.” and savory as opposed to floral or singular,
Aÿ, on the same has the space he needs. also (finally) He gravity. handled by Look, basically do everything guy in Champagne can now he’s to see, Meslier) (i.e. including Arbanne and Petit likely to call it trumps M He’s whether terroir varietal. of the parcel. which is the name “Houtrants,” on the same me two suppliers , which gives Goutorbe So, time to modify my hypotheses! Interestingly, three of three to modify my hypotheses! Interestingly, time So, fact in was this and best, #1 sample liked us of five the the least dry of the range, and was made with traditional is no substitute there All of which demonstrates liqueur. account don’t for tasting, and rigid philosophies that fatuous and wines are needs of different for the different intolerant. among the best in And so his estate, already wanted to do. will climb to new the region,
Vallée de la Marne René Geoffroy R R I tastedfourofthem. The onewe are currently outstanding… sellingisthetruly Vintage Wines CH, 10%PNandforthefirsttime, Meunier. It haslesswoodthanthe`06-45%) (NOTE: the2007willbesoldatendofthisyear; Isawanakedsampleofthewineentirage andnoteditspromise. It’s 80% STUNNING VALUE.forgotten, 80%CH–20%PN,nomaloand94%donein(large)wood.It remains A vinous juiciness, and its flavors of corn, lime,balsam,coconutandginger are stillalmostimposingly expressive. If you’ve than This is that wine. It’s still not remotely “sweet;” it has 5g/l instead of 2, but it has what it needs to be something more and whenItasteditaskedifcouldobtainit,orsomethinglikeit. thinkingitwasalittlestark. JBshowedI started meabottlehe’d keptofftotheside,whichhe’d given more dosage, disgorgementofSeptemberA new 2012.At firstthevery R than theimpressive butuncompromising `06. brioche made from goose fat instead of butter. I had no great hopes for `07s but thisis delightful, maybe more agreeable than the`06:goodforhim! The winedoesn’t tastesweeter. It Pinot haswonderful Noir aromas, likebaconasitcooksora Disgorged November `12.76%PN,11%Meunier, 13%CH,andthemajoritydonein(large)oak.Dosage is…higher R R by-the-glass foranItalianA perfect fine-diningplace.`09 really knows how toenjoy itselfinawinelikethisone. drier thanlastyear’s. The Champagneislikesweet strawinliquidform,withadelicatecreaminess andahintofporcini. Disgorged October 2012, and 70% `09 – 30% `08 – still the same assemblage as last year, but this later disgorgement is R we’ve allread about.Or isthevintagefundamentally green tasting? Judgment deferred more untilItasteitafew times. Disgorged November 2012; succulent Noir aromas lead to a curiously grassy palate, one I’ve associated with those ladybugs R R R PN, blatantsandalwoodandgreen pepper. The finishwaslongandechoey. determined originalwine;crusty, fruity, snappyandtartly whichitselfslowly esotericrendering transitionedtoatruly of now, disgorgedJune dry. `12,very The reduction wasstubborninthisbottle. When iteventually fadedthere wasa Possibly uniqueinChampagne:a50-50co-macerationofCH-PNthatseemstogive akindofetherrosé. It’s all2010 R But thereal stunnerwasagorgeous 1999, saltyandmagisterial.It willbesold“some time.”It betterbe! The 2005is…complicated.It needsmore dosagethanthesample had. The 2006hasfantasticpotential. wine shows nothing faintlycalm;it’s beast. aprofound jittery andspice-box.the wholepanoplyofverbena andwintergreen andcherry-smoke This disgorgementisOct 2012,andthe It remains among theGREAT `04s;anelectric,chargeddialoguebetween Chardonnay in(subtle,murmur)wood and ené Geoffroy Millésime ené Geoffroy Millésime ené Geoffroy “Cuvée ené Geoffroy ené Geoffroy ené Geoffroy ené Geoffroy “Cuvée ené Geoffroy “CuvéeVolupté” Brut2006j ené Geoffroy “Cuvée ené Geoffroy “Blancde A Study In Champagne;thisyou candrinkforjoy. Likemost`06sitshows astreamlined chalkybuzzbelow a R R R osé de osé de osé de E S S S xpression” Brut, E E E E aignée Brut, aignée Brut, aignée Brut, mpreinte” Brut,2007,12/375ml mpreinte” Brut,2007 xtra Brut,2004,3/1.5 xtra Brut,2004,6/750ml R osé” Brut, N N N .V., 6/1.5 .V., 12/375ml .V. N N .V., 6/750mlj .V.
L L
j j j
j dry profile ofthiswinewasviable,butwhenitsheditsbaby-fat dry
j
KRG-604M KRG-207H KRG-604 KRG-806 KRG-207 KRG-9M KRG-9H KRG-13 KRG-11 KRG-9 25
Vallée de la Marne René Geoffroy put- ed about Moussé’s wines was ed about Moussé’s es. “I don’t want it to be too es. “I don’t oir, 4% Chardonnay oir, N Vallée de la Marne // Cuisles Vallée lizy-Violaine, Châtillon-sur-marne lizy-Violaine, O uisles has 20-40cm of topsoil over what Cédric calls uisles has 20-40cm of topsoil over What I liked and admir C The estate is 5.5 hectar big; then I couldn’t go to the vineyards,” he says. The says. he go to the vineyards,” big; then I couldn’t new the winery especially from is indeed impressive,
moment of “tasting.” A wine that shows well but grows at but grows well shows A wine that moment of “tasting.” is too superficial. after the 4th or 5th exposure all tiresome intelligent even refined, They were their poise and polish. Champagnes go wines. As a rule the Meunier for Meunier ) Les Barres (e.g., Chartogne’s either into deeply earthy areas seems both hedonistic fruit-bombs, but Moussé or they’re and to add those profiles the needle between to thread posture,” I would call that thing “good something of his own. what may not know and you Terry-image a silly but that’s highly this way; the Champagnes are it it. Put I mean by also they’re but charm, Meunier flavory with loaded and perfectly; “drape” flavors all the together, color-coordinated, sprawl. They don’t fit, symmetrical, contained. they’re Champagne wasThe existence of such a soil in “schiste.” runningschist of vein a is there swears newsHe us. of all to and Cuisles, through directly Villers-Sous-Châtillon from go to you If unique in Champagne. it’s to his knowledge The sub-soils can look at photos. you his (or our) website soils penetrate them. Other can’t but the roots porous are of marls and micraster chalk common the usual mixture are to understandto this part have of Champagne – but we the claim, and also resist the geology behind Cédric’s we’re it—though “tasting” we’re assume to temptation certainly be schist. tasting something and it might as well
vineyard area // 5.5 hectares area vineyard // 4,100 cases annual production // Cuisles, Jonquery, villages & soil types (chalk, marl) 16% Pinot 80% Pinot Meunier, grape varieties // do, before I commit to a new do, before e this point, because I find it urgently necessary
everal years ago Didier Gimonnet told me there told me there Gimonnet ago Didier years everal o I made a beeline. And all of it was true. I had long I visited twice and assembled wines both times. I
S S
emphasiz one way of course is fine, but wines are Tasting agency. And I “drunk.” and another way being being “tasted” if the wines a case, my way through need to see, as I work as they seemed at the and attractive as interesting remain to drink the wines as you
(of which would be a new member of the Club Tresors verythe first provide would who president) then was he added He Meunier. from Club bottling entirely Spécial but definitely an up that the guy was still below-the-radar and ambitious. a super-nice man, young and comer, taking place of the Meunier-Rennaissance been aware in all the terra incognita Marne, in the way up-valley who’d of growers an ad-hoc group Thierry, near Château and wanted to give their old vineyards rediscovered first to got. I went it almost never the respect Meunier liked the people and the wines (and Loriot in Festigny, I think in all especially liked the landscape, the loveliest a case to ship back and drink. of Champagne), and mixed Moussé. Cédric young find to Cuisles, to went then I make one turn You is no simple matter. to Cuisles Getting turn off another and then side-valley, into a the Marne off and then another smaller valley, into an even the side valley turn to the quietest most out of the way village, one of can hear the chickens clucking in you those places where so still. the next village, it’s 26 how the wines taste // Classy Meunier beauties; savory and dark-bready sorghum-sweetness of and with the with a certain reserve but also and containment – elegance is the right word. the variety, Our favorite among the Meunier pilgrims in the Marne Valley (and elsewhere), an up-and- Moussé at a glance // Our favorite among the Meunier pilgrims in the Marne Valley the newest member of the Club Tresors. coming young grower who’s
It was my first appointment the morning was my first appointment that paralyzed big snowstorm after the It northern I was curious how and not on the main road, say, is, let’s Cuisles in mid-March. Europe myglissade to managed I and snow, the in pretty was sure Champagne But manage. I’d way there. Moussé Fils Moussé
Vallée de la Marne Moussé Fils knits, itwillbe yummy. Latein2013 itoughttobecharming. disgorged Nov 2012;rightnow ontheother, itfeelsbifurcated, steelononesideandfruit butassuming iteventually This istheirNV, basedon2010—oursasyou seeisalready olderthanwhat’s soldinFrance –assemblagewithstillPN, Moussé Fils vines Meunier. Can’t waittoseethisinfinalform. I tastedanexperimentalsamplewithoutenoughRS;ithad4 andneeded5.5-6.0,butit’s slimandlinearas`08is.100%old- Moussé Fils“ elegant, fine-bonedanddelicious. charming,fine-grained,cooland silky.wonderful, He saysit’s rare togetsuchripePNin Cuisles. Thewineispiquant, me have some. Alittle. This isthe50-50CH-PNwine,never to bedoneagain;disgorgedJanuary 2013,thepalateisjust When Iwhimpered pitiably, Imeandudemadeatotalpoodleof myself, beggingfortable scraps, herelented andlet Moussé FilsMillésimeBrut,2008j white tea,jasmine;it’s spicy, saltyand riotouslyfloral,even mineral.Aspretty asBdBcanbe. vintage wine“For thefamily” thathad Chard andPN.Imean,how dare they. Disgorged Nov 2012,thisis a potionof Chardonnay goes,andthisoneismasterly. All2008,butaneven smallerquantitythanusualbecausesomewent intoa customer, smart) This mayallhave beensoldtoone(very butifheleaves anyforthe rest ofus…it’s where allofCédric’s Moussé FilsBlancdeBlancs“ more ribsandshoulders;alogicalwinewithsomematurityshowing. and 40% `07-`06. The dosage is7.7g/l;the wine ismore serious,firmer—that’s 2008,ofcourse—withlessstomachand The “superior” NVwasdisgorgedNov closetotheabove, 2012;theassemblageisvery butthewineisolder:60%`08 Moussé Fils“ Meunier Champagne—so,we have ourNV! and two,givingbasically7.35g/lwasideal;seriousyet round andsubstantive; masculineandcaramelly. Areally superior Curiously, numberthree wasslimandlinear, thoughsometasterswould(incorrectly) findittoosweet. Theblendofone FIVE had9.8g/l. FOUR had9.1g/l. THREE had8.4g/l. TWO had7.7g/l. ONE had7g/l. needlessly sweet. FIVEwas“commercial” andcharming,butlackedthespecificityoffarmer-fizz. alone. yetTHREE wasmore stillnotcloying, exotic, ittasteddrierbutIdoubtedwas.FOURwastoosugary only more seductive, more end-palatelemonsnap. Good butthefirstwasbetter. Ablendofthetwowasbetterthaneither always it’s 82%Meunier and18%PN.Samplegooddidn’t ONEwasvery needtobesweeter. TWO wasrounder, I’ll share the dosage tasting with you. We tastedthemblind. The base-wineis 50% 2009and `08-`07-`06, andas it closerinstyletohis“superior” NV. This wine willbecomeincrementally more mature as the years pass, as Cédric kindly offersto age itlongerforusto bring Moussé Fils“ personally preferred, of andIwasalsocurioustoascertain of thebasicNVwe gotlastyear wasabitsweeter thanI it foraBlanc deBlancs;elseisallnoire everything . the details.Cédricgrows alittleChardonnay butonlyuses environmental standpoint;getintouchwithusifyou want W e tastedvinsclaires andalsodiddosagetrials.Some R S N O osé “Tradition” Brut, pécial Club”2008Brut,6/750ml oire r Tradition” Brut, R éserve” Brut, O pale” N .V. N N .V. .V.
N .V. j
ambient-yeast fermented,nomalo,andsuperblypretty. wine, aMeunier Rosé from a28-year-old vineyard, blend, whichwasexcellent. There willbeanewClub into justone. the twonon-vintagewinescouldsomehow becollapsed Among thestillwineswas2012S pecial Club KMS-608 KMS-508 KMS-3 KMS-2 KMS-4 KMS-1 27
Vallée de la Marne Moussé Fils
enness over the last 3-4 enness over eims // Ambonnay Fresh, bracing red-grape
Billiot bottle will show a R
of fruit. His wines have marvelous
malolactic fermentation. That makes
nil if you hold the wines six months after nil Montagne de Montagne and That would explain the unev
years, I said, and she agreed. She added that the “Cuvée added that the “Cuvée She I said, and she agreed. years, be fresher of being changed, “to was in the process Laetitia” my thought the apple taste.” I shared and not to have Laetitia out turns It solera. the in dud one was there that used to be a number of small tanks, but was shifted into a oir, 25% Chardonnay oir, N mbonnay Grand Cru (limestone) mbonnay Grand Cru A most of all, as he can presume upon lavish and deep fruit flavors. not sloppy. Too firm to be sloppy! and impeccable Too not sloppy.
mid-palate flavors. Just 5 hectares in size, so availabilities are scarce!
vineyard area // 5 hectares area vineyard // 3,750 cases annual production // villages & soil types 75% Pinot grape varieties // reductive when they’re first disgorged, and occasionally a
the wines of Egly-Ouriet (Billiot’s friend and neighbor) they couldn’t be more different. Egly pulls friend and neighbor) they couldn’t the wines of Egly-Ouriet (Billiot’s
erge has fully retired now. I had the sense his was now. erge has fully retired S
an uneasy retirement at first, and he may have, let’s say, say, let’s have, may he and first, at retirement uneasy an father had his formulas, and they A little. “My hovered. in his later said Laetitia. “But almost always worked,” work, didn’t noticed when they he may not have years taste.” really because he often didn’t them very frisky and rare That’s the first few minutes. for aroma metallic slightly disgorgement. Billiot seems to want liveliness If you know you down into its mealy-ripe depths; Billiot lifts you up on a billowing fountain stamina and brightness. They’re hedonistic but 28 Henri Billiot at a glance // 100% Grand Cru, particularly satisfying Pinot Noir here. and they never undergo how the wines taste // Billiot do not filter,
Generational transfers can be tricky. But this was the first year I felt that Laetitia andyear I felt that was the first this But be tricky. transfers can Generational of the domaine. had control her husband really Henri Billiot Henri Champagnes with long, swollen
Montagne de Reims Henri Billiot Champagne, thathadbecomeperhapsstrange oflate. named concurred whenIsaiditwasaclassicofgrower- still own oldbottlesofLaetitia,andsheafterwhomitis saw itspear-droppy notesasexotic. Andwhynot?But I many drinkersandalsoby knowledgeable reviewers, who called “flaw” in Cuvée Laetitiawasactuallyenjoyed by it strong, andnotentirely incommandofitsown strength. to throttle back on it.But thisis powerful, salty, quitestern, and—oaky. I don’t find itblatant,buttastesdiffer. Let’s call tamped-down RS- which letstheoakshow through more. They themselves feelthiscuvéehasgottentoooaky, andplan Now 2006 –I wasn’t convinced last year, thinking itwastoo woody, butlongerentirage (disgorgedDec. `12),and with Henri Billiot“CuvéeJulie”Brut, generation,thatplaysinadarkernot theexactsameform;ratherformofnew register. is really refined, that vintage also shows compact, berried,withtheindigofruit inBurgundy. Back in grand form, albeit other with…more. They weren’t different; likesiblingswholookalikebutoneofthemisnicer. very This PNfrom 2010 It’s thesamebaseasNV, assemblagewithstillPN;disgorgedinJan. `13. We triedtwoblends,onewith4g/landthe Henri Billiot and itreally tosing. started Billiot, andthesolid,aldentefinish.Iletaglassstandfor20minutes withalltheir stand-at-attentionAmbonnayfruit The wineis50%2010and`09-`08,disgorgedJanuary 2013,andrathershookup. It’s potentiallyexcellent andpure drier versions were coarse. They wanttochangethis,andsowe diddosagetrails.But Ihadtosaylikedthewines astheywere; the(potentially) Henri BilliotBrut Henri BilliotBrut in thelargetank. single largeroneatpoint,andthere wasindeedaflaw The O f coursewhat’s curiousaboutallthisis,theso- estate is also between Millésimes, so the R osé Brut, R R éserve, éserve, N .V. j N N .V., 6/1.5 .V. ( N ( .V. j j
) L )
( j )
of wait totastethemagain,andrepeatedly. encouraging bottlesofBilliot forseveral years, andIcan’t offering willbeclipped–butwhatremains are themost of whichare present certainly inBilliot’s signature mightbestrawberry, forest-floor, is firmerwithless berriedfruit).overt The (Bouzy, incontrast,isdarker butmore earthy, sweetest, most Volnay-like intheMontagne de
them Chardonnay. AmbonnayPinot Noir seemstobe Ambonnay isP inot land;350hectares andonly20
wines.
sweet-100s. All sweet-100s. All
Ambonnay Ambonnay
while Aÿ while Aÿ KBA-1M
KBA-6 KBA-4 KBA-1 Reims.
the the 29
Montagne de Reims Henri Billiot eims // Verzenay R rand Cru Verzenay. rand Cru powerful, grippingly intense Pinot
donnay, as you’d expect in these parts.these in expect you’d as donnay, the blackest grapes in all Champagne...
and virile. As a Pinot village, Verzenay is Verzenay village, and virile. As a Pinot ’s vineyards are spread between between spread are vineyards ’s
Juhlin accords it special praise, saying “The accords Juhlin Char
Burgundy it’d be Nuits-St.-Georges; animal be Nuits-St.-Georges; it’d Burgundy oir, 20% Chardonnay oir, and Verzy both Grand Cru. It’s 80%/20%, Cru. It’s both Grand Verzy and the genuine star of the Montagne de Reims... the genuine star of the Montagne
twenty different parcels, about half of which are about half of which are parcels, different twenty who wants to make gracious or delicate wines. Montagne de Montagne
N
and iron notes... persistently long and hard for notes... persistently long and hard and iron
years before it settles down to utter perfection.” it settles down before years cases, is showing how things should be done. how cases, is showing exemplifies it. This doesn’t seem the terroir for seem the terroir This doesn’t it. exemplifies than 40 years. Yes to malolactic. Yes than 40 years.
t’s a singular flavor and Lallement’s virile virile and Lallement’s a singular flavor t’s
Let's talk about this G I Lallement
If it were If and sauvage. Verzenay are There older 1700 style someone village produces rich, peppery definitely pepper many Noir/ Pinot
and and
very few
vineyard area // 4.5 hectares area vineyard // 1,700 cases annual production Grand Cru (limestone) // Verzenay villages & soil types 80% Pinot grape varieties // terroir expression. expression. terroir allement Champagnes. There goes the goes the There Champagnes.
L froth over Lallement and I’ll donate my donate my and I’ll Lallement over froth or otherwise, out “Lallement: to Lallement he boomed but when he got
just
Champagnes. Tiny producer, only four wines, but WHAT WINES! only four wines, but WHAT producer, Champagnes. Tiny inimitable and yummy, and all from a young a young and all from inimitable and yummy,
yeasts. This tiny little winery, producing all of producing winery, This tiny little yeasts.
well he did, and I can see why they appeal to see why they appeal to he did, and I can well
tarting with his 2004s the wines aren’t filtered filtered tarting with his 2004s the wines aren’t ust four wines—but what wines! Original, ust four wines—but what wines! Original, cold-stabilized, and they are fermented with are and they cold-stabilized, J S As
-type
vigneron who’s restlessly improving every year. improving restlessly who’s vigneron I am always secretly delighted when Lallement’s your your delighted when Lallement’s I am always secretly among these favorite family. organs to your complex,
secret. If you want me to totally approve of your gnarly gnarly your of want me to totally approve you If secret. hippitude, or ambient him, as he lays high emphasis on precision, focus him, as he lays high emphasis on precision, a crystalline texture. All of which these Champagnes a crystalline All of which these Champagnes texture. what As do many others. But display. these virtues together with Champagnes display are strikingly singular and distinctive
Noir 30 Lallement at a glance // Grand Cru village in the Montagne de Reims making
Michel Bettane was flipping through this catalogue and issuing various mutters of various mutters and issuing this catalogue flipping through Bettane was Michel approval them!” I discovered Jean Jean
Montagne de Reims Jean Lallement three nightsagowasfreakin’ amazing.So you figure guy. itout,smart but it was a weird day. I report in the interest of temp, andmore andthisonewasimmediatelyfruitier consolidated. It seemedsleeker, less“pulpy” thanittastedbefore, reduced. The bottlewasalltorn topieces,entirely different from anyI’d opened.So Iaskedforanother bottle, atcellar that day, the atmospheric pressure low, was very andthe first bottle Jean-Luc brought out was ice cold. And stubbornly wasn’t theculprit;July 2012 should beenoughtimeforawine with thismuchsubstancetorecover. It wassnowing allday itmanytimes, andnever hadreasondrunk toeatthosewords. But itwasanoddshowing on-the-day, anddisgorgement That’s whatIwrote lastyear, addingthatitwas thebestbottlingtodate.Iboughtthatwineforhomecellar, have delicious andabsurdly long. here—that’sThere seemstobe more andlessberry fruit ‘09—it’s infact. Lavishsilkytexture, explosively fruty helplessly asitis;it’sis thisasiodé,even asdry aboutflowers andeven green-tea. It’s 100%2009andentirely Verzenay Pinot Noir. If there’s amore butnotthemint,nor singularRosé inChampagne,someoneopenitfor me.Aubryhastheblackberry Jean I shall,however impatiently.) (NOTE: we’re stillawaitingthenextvintage,2008.He’s innogreat torelease hurry it,andI’m barely willingtowait.But wait needs isayear ortwoonthecork. first timeever, Ithoughtthe4g/lRSmighthave beenateenybithigher. finishis remarkable, andallthis Yet thetertiary As usualthisismore adamant,lessstillandlunar. It needsmore timetogetover disgorgement(Nov. 2012),andforthe as itgetsallcaramelized, likethe“candy” ofthebrown-bits you scrapefrom thepan. another year onthecork; thefinishisn’t quiteassuave, barkier andcrustier, more saltandatfirstmore brash. Thenwatch signatures here are berries,orchids, violets;thisoneisseriously smokyandavery It reverses thevintagesofabove, soit’s 80-20‘08-‘09.Different parcels gointoit,givingstronger juice,andthe was THEBEST VALUE IN THE PORTFOLIO. It isagain.It probably alwayswillbe. The blue-label,andour“Old Blue” isagoodol’ dawg. Thank you foryour response tomystatementoflastyear thatthis Jean 80-20 `09-`08andPN-CH. just absurd, oneofthetreasures ofthewineworld. chalkier thanusual,andIhadthesensethere wasmore Verzy showing through. But really, beingis crystalline thissilvery It’s thesamecuvéeaslastyear, justmore recently disgorged—November 2012infact.If anythingitshowed leesierand mead, heirloomhoney, brewer’s yeast, sometimeswithlemon-balmandsorrel, othertimeswithwalnutsandherboils. It’s speakwell from mypersonalfavorite, forthemselves; that,itsinnatevirtues butapart signature flavors ofapple-cellar, First noticeitsexceptional polishanddetail. Then takeanamazinglydistinctexpression ofterroir, redolent andatmospheric. We sometimescallit“the green label,”butwhatever we callit,it’s thefinestandmostdistinctive NVinallofChampagne. Jean either calltheirblufforjustsellyour grapesanyoldwhere. wired inthem.Still, itwouldseemtobechild’s playto – oneofthegoodguys.But ofbehaviorishard- thissort just keepallyour grapes.” like apunk.“If we can’t have thosegrapesthenyou can the negoçdidwhatthey’re trainedtodo,andleveraged It wasabout15%ofwhatheselling theBig Boy. But reclaim justtwoparcels forhisown production. Just two! expiring. But here’s whathappened. Jean-Luc wantedto was toldthatacontracttodeliver grapestoanégocewas And thisisoneofthe I hadhopedatonepointtoseetheestategr L L L allement “ allement Brut, allement R R osé Brut, éserve” Brut, N .V.j j négoce we actuallyapprove of N .V. j N
.V. j
full disclosure, but full disclosure entailstellingyou that a bottle I opened ( j ow. I )
from you asitis.” This seemedtoregister. wine, I’ll buyit. We cannever get enoughChampagne and are concernedthere’s no onetobuyalltheadditional “Jean-Luc,” Isaid,“If you keptyour entire production, huh?” But there wasonethingIcoulddo,anddidit. to phrase the question that didn’t amount to “No juevos, But Ididn’t feelitwasmyplacetoask. There wasnoway It’s notlikethere’s asoftmarket for Verzenay Pinot Noir. flow andqualityoflife. Still, Ihatetoletthebullywin. and equipment,nottomentionaradicalchangeincash- another 800caseswouldentailalargeinvestment inspace O f coursethere’s more toitthanthat. To vinify strong editionofthiswine;itwants KL KL KL T-3 T-2 T-1 31
Montagne de Reims Jean Lallement
Champagne is actually illery Grand Cru, eims // Verzenay S cels; there’s some talk of talk some there’s cels; R par
e quite different from Lallement’s Lallement’s from e quite different Cru (limestone); es from which es from er Chardonnay from three parcels in Villers- in parcels three from Chardonnay
e has 9 hectares of which 6 are Grand Cru; the Grand are 6 which of 9 hectares has e Montagne de Montagne is Chardonnay in Villers-Marmery (home of our Villers-Marmery in is Chardonnay H Sillery – and Mesnil!
and fleshy, and correspondingly less sleek and and correspondingly and fleshy, remarkably ecumenical group: Verzy, Verzenay, Verzenay, Verzy, ecumenical group: remarkably
all, Verzenay. But Pehu’s wines are rather more rather more wines are Pehu’s But Verzenay. all,
Arnaud Margaine), but which he sells off – he wants but which he sells off – he Arnaud Margaine),
The six hectar The wines ar bottle only Grand Cru Champagne. His vineyards vineyards Cru Champagne. His bottle only Grand every way except basic essential flavor. Verzenay is, every basic essential flavor. way except
to 39 into divided are bottled in after glossy filigree. balance hero a are Mailly, a still producing Marmery. oir, 22% Chardonnay oir, N
ger Grand Cru (Cretaceous chalk) O hard to take a second hard imonet e Mesnil-sur- L 78% Pinot grape varieties // vineyard area // 9 hectares area vineyard // 4,000 cases annual production Grand Cru, Grand Cru, Verzy // Verzenay villages & soil types 1 Grand Cru, Villers-Marmery Mailly-Champagne S redundant instead of something new. redundant
o David Pehu is a man on the move. In In is a man on the move. Pehu o David
ut not really, as you will see. as you ut not really, was stoked to have discovered this man and his wines. his and man this discovered have to stoked was I B And our her
supplier in Verzenay, first because of the diplomacies Verzenay, supplier in portfoliothe because second and taken is space involved up with something
a couple years he promises an organic single parcel PN parcel an organic single he promises a couple years He be interesting. which should (Les Poules), Mailly from each from also plans to bottle a trilogy of Chardonnays, and Mesnil. Verzenay Villers-Marmery, single communes: Noirs Pinot Alongside these will be mono-commune who doesn’t this is a grower So Verzenay. and Mailly from he wants it to show. just talk about terroir; 32
Among the many things that made me happy last year was your discoveryyour was of this fascinat- last year that made me happy the many things Among the these aren’t on the back, because pat yourself And a bow. Take Thanks! ing estate. characterful.most the among often theythough are offer, I Champagnes hedonistic most Pehu- Chartognes led me to him. It was Chartognes led me to him. It
Montagne de Reims Pehu-Simonet driver. forduck-breast with“forbidden” Igothungry blackrice,morels andsunchokes. blazing almostoppressive sunlight,but`10iscoolfresh shade. This isnota“lady’s” rosé unlesstheladyisaNASCAR aromas, thickvinositybutalsomusselshellandwhitemushrooms; asilkytexture andthe “shadiness” of`10.2009is Based on2010,with 25%ofthe“solera” in2006and8%stillPNalsofrom `10.Disgorged started Oct. `12.Deep-fruited Pehu- (NOTE: there’s avintage2006inthewingsforlaterthisyear; he’s doingdosagetrialsnow.) muscle andbroader shoulders.It’s andsalty. longandcrackery It swag-bagtheyhandoutatIPNC. shouldbeinevery aromas are dramatic,withsomeofthemead-likeapple-cellarnoteswe know from Lallement,butPehu’s wineshave more This willalwayscomefrom twoclimatsin Verzenay, Pertois andNoues; thisyear it’s all2009,disgorgedDec. 2012;the Pehu- buckwheat-y andmorel-like. balancedform;it’s yet perfectly sternly dry masculineandcapable—itcouldfix your car—butit’s alittlestoicandbroody, All 2007,all Verzenay, 80-20PN-CH,disgorgedNov. dry. 2012,andvery It remains astrong terroir statementina Pehu- doughy andsanguine.If you musthave specificassociations,thinkcardamom andsalsify. year’s, andit’s entirely deliciousandapproachable—a “boy isthistasty” ofwine;lotsterroir focusandbreed sort yet and 40%CH(Verzenay alone),disgorgedAug 2012;it’s really surprisinglymore creamy sothanlast andfruit-forward, It’s 70%2010and30% a“perpetual reserve” (asPétersdoesthem)datingbackto2006.60%PN(Verzenay-Verzy-Sillery) specific anddistinctive asonecoulddesire from farmer-fizz. By nature thisis remarkableits very Champagne; as glowy andsumptuousasonecouldaskfrom a “luxury” item,yet as Pehu- spine; there’s bitethatisn’t acertain sharp. If 2009sgothewayIthinktheywill,thiscouldbewonderful. vintage level. It’s all`09now, really firm yet lithe,mineral yet creamy; ithasthevintagesternnessbutalsoa real terroir Disgorged Nov. 2012;stillallMesnil, from parcels onthehill,andinfactit’s theonlypure Mesnil we have atthenon- Pehu- S S S S S imonnet “ imonnet BlancdeBlancsBrut, imonnet imonnet Blancde imonnet “Transparence” R osé Brut, S election” Brut, N oirs Brut, N .V.
E xtra-Brut, N .V. j N N .V. j .V.
N
.V.
KPS-3 KPS-6 KPS-5 KPS-1 KPS-2 33
Montagne de Reims Pehu-Simonet of
almost
Chardonnay Chardonnay
palate to object
Champagne. Or debate about the
in these vineyards. in these vineyards.
répail) being ideal for T
exposition guards against exposition guards
In fact there’s some chit- fact there’s In
near Blanc de Blancs giving
and less floweryWe shall style. eims // Villers-Marmery
ower’s wine from Villers-Marmery wine from ower’s the Chardonnay is prone. the Chardonnay R
they’re bigger-bodied than wines of they’re bigger-bodied
oir N something unusual and actually gorgeous. Chardonnay evidently came to Villers by by Villers to evidently came Chardonnay
try it and lo, it was good. Others followed. try followed. lo, it was good. Others it and
(in the Côte des Blancs it’s just 10 cm of it’s (in the Côte des Blancs
Around the turn of the century one grower century the turn of the Around one grower Cru (clay-limestone)
er of the wines being blended away and felt nothing of the wines being blended away and felt
you might say. You have a meter of topsoil, have You might say. you illers-Marmery is an anomaly in the Montagne illers-Marmery is an anomaly in the Montagne
there ever be too much distinctiveness in the world? be too much distinctiveness ever there more — for these are unique Chardonnays. Yet I Yet unique Chardonnays. — for these are more regret. Why do anything to diminish the singular? Why do anything to diminish the singular? regret. V I tasted another gr
Reims, an island of Chardonnay in a sea of Pinot in a sea of Pinot an island of Chardonnay Reims,
their “style” — if indeed this house even has a style — if indeed this house even their “style” vineyards here. And I imagine this Chardonnay is part And I imagine this Chardonnay here. vineyards
Montagne de Montagne chat about Villers (and its neighbor Villers chat about then chalk happened to have we Now planted particular clone of Chardonnay a schoolmarmish to have have I think you’d to Champagnes such as these. because its eastward Chardonnay Veuve Clicquot signs in the vineyards; they own a lot they own Clicquot signs in the vineyards; Veuve of of any thought but Can de Noir, Yet topsoil). accident. though without the class and it had that flavor, a new face of The village expresses Margaine. and expands the range of possibilities for quite some evidently There’s so I opine. to which frosts, Spring be some of the most hauntingly beautiful and original Champagnes
Rosé, to saignée Rosé, Champagnes in this portfolio. 90% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot 90% Chardonnay, grape varieties // vineyard area // 6.2 hectares area vineyard // 4,600 cases annual production 1 // Villers-Marmery villages & soil types
and to my mind they’re just about as prettyDamn, they could as Chardonnay can be.
e polish. I also had the most out- er claim this is a sacred Truth engraved engraved Truth er claim this is a sacred ought out some 2007 Pinot Noir Noir ought out some 2007 Pinot tasty. We wanted to sneak the bottle under We tasty.
and basically, you know, vandalize our host. vandalize know, you and basically,
blending into his Rosé. This wine was blending into his Rosé.
ridiculous; it reeked of strawberry, and was of strawberry, ridiculous; it reeked
form for us to taste, to show the kinds of the kinds of form for us to taste, to show
e experimented with cover-cropping in his in his e experimented with cover-cropping riving around Villers-Marmery you notice all the you Villers-Marmery riving around . Margaine D Arnaud br Arnaud has also experimented with a I would nev H These wines hav
delightfully in its red our topcoats
in stone; it’s just one guy’s experience. To be considered, considered, be To experience. guy’s one just it’s stone; in asserted. are Truths sacred whenever years. about three in Rosé regular alongside his offered be tried was so was delicious! And a 2002 reserve wine we It by Riesling as guessed been have would it Riesling like in Germany. 90% of any grower wines he’s compulsively
I among all the vins claires Noirs rageously fruity Pinot deal; the real which, I like Arnaud. He’s from tasted. Apart always thinking, always in on auto-pilot, he’s never he’s curiosity sincere quality of a demonstrates he and motion, reassuring. that I find vineyards. It’s trendy, and the results seemed to be seemed to be and the results trendy, It’s vineyards. a chance to say a a grower it gives Plus favorable. The first fewyears work. it didn’t fashionable thing. But and potassium inputs he tried it, it depleted nitrogen the wines. in flavors into the vines, leading to reduction is since restored. Equilibrium be Riesling! Recent developments seem to suggest a transition to a more “serious” These can village for Chardonnay. a 95% see! It’s 34 A. Margaine at a glance // An island of Chardonnay in a sea of Pinot Noir creates how the wines taste // They have their own minerality and tropical fruitiness; the Côte des Blancs, you’ll ever drink.
It was a markedly strong “performance” among these wines this year. Most striking was Most year. this these wines among “performance” strong markedly a was It of the and the return astringency, what had been sometimes-phenolic the absence of began together. when we from I remembered almost satiny texture A the most simply delicious
Montagne de Reims A. Margaine Margaine “CuvéeT from foodthatalsocontainssweetness. Germany –withsavory by thedreadful sweetness. Not atthisaddress! It’s disgorged Jan. 2012,andyou canuseitasyou wouldaFeinherb wine It’s thesamewineasregular NV –noneofthiswe ofcourseusethecrap forourdemi-secbecauseitsmanyflawsare masked You feelflowers springupon your palate. Hardly afusillade-o-sucrose here, butinsteadadelicatesweetness. Let’s sneakinabottlenexttimewe gofordim-sum! Margaine “CuvéeTraditionelle” Demi- below.smokiness further flavor isamazing! of thefruit Maybe even more amazingthanthechalkywashonfinish,andcherry-tobacco continues hismovement intoariper, fullerstyleforthiswine;it’s now amongourmedium-bodiedRosés—and thequality Disgorged Nov. 2012.76%CH,24%PNincludes11%stillred of`08and`09. The basewineislargely2010,andthis A (“Field ofHell”) whichis86years old. if you’re looking for a festive, polished and delicious large-format you needn’t keep forever, here it is. 74% Champs d’Enfer Disgorged Oct. 2012,thisisamazinglyopenandgenerous foramagnum;againflexibleapproach toRS ishelpful,and A in thefinish;gingerandAsianpear, andatexture likemeringue,inahauntinglypretty form,lyricandlingering. feminine fine-grainedwine,coolbutnotaloof, intensebutcontained,embeddedchalkinesslikethedustfrom a rockslide Disgorged Jan. 2013. The reputation of`08willbemadewiththefirstsniffaChampagnelikethis.Anextraordinarily From three parcels: Brocot, Montmedy andChamps d’Enfer. 25%wasdoneinwood,and100%went through malo. This iscompletelystunningChampagne. A base-2010; it’s hisusualmeyer-lemon, freesia, osmanthusandchalk;sleekflowery, withincisiveness andexpression. CH-PN. Disgorged Jan. 2013. This isreally superbcrafting:more wineand a more reserve liberaldosagetomitigatethe The assemblage is complex for a small domain! 36% 2010—35% 2009, 10% 2008, 10% 2007 and 9% 2004. 92-8 A A to grow intotheflavor beastitwantsto be,buteven now it’s snappyinitsangularway. mid-palateisintriguing.It2012. Crisp texture comesasnosurprise,butthechalk-dustygingery needsayear onthecork I blockyou? It’s 85%`07,15%`06,nomalo;36%ofthewinewasin4th-year barriquewithbattonage.Disgorged Nov. This wine’s attracted a small coterie of enthusiasts who like a more austere Champagne than I myself do. But why should A . Margaine . Margaine“ . Margaine“ . Margaine“CuvéeTraditionelle” Brut, . MargaineBlancdeBlancs . Margaine“CuvéeTraditionelle” Brut, R S S osé Brut, pecial Club”Brut,2006,3/1.5 j pecial Club”Brut,20086/750mlj raditionelle” Demi- N .V. j E xtra Brut,
S S ec, ec, N N N .V., 12/375ml .V. .V. N N
L .V., 12/375ml .V.
j j j
KAM-406M KAM-408 KAM-5H KAM-1H KAM-5 KAM-2 KAM-1 KAM-7 35
Montagne de Reims A. Margaine of
this
thrum is
than Vilmart, Vilmart, than
and Burgundian
though the flavors
myself say that no
bottle-age these can
already remarkable, have have remarkable, already
beautiful. eims // Rilly-la-Montagne R oir N we had to solve by grasping at it with our by had to solve we the emotions can’t help but engage. There There but engage. help the emotions can’t
starting over. Most of what you know – or know of what you Most starting over. tasters describe as “hedonistic” are merely merely are tasters describe as “hedonistic” the word “delicious” in most published “delicious” the word eached the end of the tasting with Laurent pre-clonal Chardonnay vines. “These grapes
“best” grower is, I’ll let is, I’ll grower “best” necessarily beautiful. Some of the wines necessarily beautiful. Some lurid. Beauty seems like a prerequisite for a prerequisite seems like lurid. Beauty
profundity, not just the affect and I mean true profundity, (calcerous clay and limestone) Cru (calcerous clay and
wines exciting wines and even of impressive
even for just a day (or to humor me), you’d for just a day (or to humor me), you’d even
Alternately, when we respond spontaneously respond we when Alternately,
er
won’t at all be useful. won’t
can’t really say why. It might be similar to the might be similar It say why. really can’t
vowed to start thinking about wine in terms of vowed
is a word we seldom hear in wine- we eautiful is a word B When I r ower in Champagne is more significant in Champagne is more ower year, I felt as beauty often makes me feel, the presence year, notice the ever-present You a certain silence. speak. I that aren’t you, I promise power. by virtueof significance of mere if you its beauty, yourself find – “know” of who the wines, which were that the and become almost uniformly absence of a wine as if it were to approach seem We tasting notes. sudoko puzzle intellects. and sensually, plenty are that certain gaudy and profundity, gr Montagne de Montagne Champagne or “the poor man’s Krug.” Vilmart’s wines Vilmart’s Krug.” man’s poor or “the Champagne in
illy la Montagne 1
R ilmart, Laurent Laurent business V
intrigued Laurent. “And they have an incredible Muscat aroma.” And Laurent, like
one of the of one I had mixed I had mixed
but
Laurent’s father’s father’s Laurent’s about them that
of complexity. Even at ground-level they’ve got lots of flavor, as ground-level they’ve got lots of flavor, Even at of complexity.
. It doesn’t mean I doesn’t means. It
getting into the silly
60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot 60% Chardonnay, grape varieties // // lutte raisonnée Ampelos Certification vineyard area // 11 hectares area vineyard // 9,000 cases annual production // villages & soil types things have ramified for things have
has a wife who says he’s “a maniac for his vineyards.” has a wife who says he’s
wines. There is a gleam There wines. opinions about different means I had different
e is a larger existential meaning to e is
They’regrower best the described as often eter Liem writes: “Vilmart is not only one of & Cie. n the early days when I first approached Vilmart n the early days when I first approached offer a resonance and majesty unique among small estates.
Ther I P I accidental. And without and the way these
flavors. can every great producer, 36 At best, Vilmart’s wines are grandiose and resplendent. With sufficient how the wines taste // At best, Vilmart’s life and for his isn’t base wines give these Champagnes distinctly mealy & Cie at a glance // Wood-aged Vilmart
finest champagne producers of any type in the region.” of any type in the finest champagne producers Champs, and started with Laurent working note Please emotions about some of the Champagnes. emotions” actually what “mixed doubted the worthiness or thought they were of the wines It mediocre. aspects of the wines. I was thrilled with some, too oaky. whether a couple were with all, and wondered of having to do with the circumstances take you up and up into rare altitudes were stated in BOLD CAPS. A further key to quality is the large proportion of are yellower than those from clonal vines,” says the greatest grower-estates in Champagne, in grower-estates greatest the
hyper – like the frisky and even they’re Sometimes alwayscalmandserene. notthatthewinesare t’s of they offer the flavor crazy-good 2004 vintage. But of of belonging, the silent harbor homecoming, the flavor never animated they’re when they’re And even welcome. to be coquettish or seductive flirtatious, because in order already wines Laurent’s And arch. be to have also you loving. They are accept you.
As I arrive at Vilmart, I find I have a feeling of anticipation and pleasure similar similar pleasure and anticipation of feeling a have I I find Vilmart, at Asarrive I wines be beautiful, but I’ll only will the of arriving at Dönnhoff. Not to the feeling of making- the level reached wines have Champs’ Laurent air. my own be breathing of that lapidary and serenity the lit-from-within-ness style so few wines it-look-easy, I feel at home here. have. Vilmart & Cie Vilmart
Montagne de Reims Vilmart & Cie Vilmart withgenial weather, thoughin factthere must have of whatwouldbethebig storm. I’d alwaysassociated estate a pursuit of remarkable point any powerful of so most dramatic disgorgement, disconnect size and varying without exception weafterward do is amakerofChampagne:“We dowinefirst,then profile. have—wisely—presented amore integratedandelegant on like you are. You hardly feelyou wonderful. You feelactuallypretty absent, thegrindingbackground buzzofjust interested wine
gracious, sovinous,lordly intheircarriage. unassailable consequence,amust-have foranyone the matterofoak,andhisrecent Champagnes I arriv I M I
t’s cleartome Vilmart isaChampagneestate n theearlydaysIthinkLaurent wasflyingblind in your glass is a psalm. Everything food-friendly ofallmyChampagnes,becausethey’re atter offact,I’ve found Vilmart amongthe
gemstone gleamingamongthe chalk. Y
metamorphosis. et heisadamantlyavintnerfirst,before he
and gracefulofallwines.Casksare hardly the
ed thisyear whileitwassnowing, thefirsthours
more. Organic viticulture, low (truly!) yields, a vision of perfection makeLaurenta visionofperfection Champs’
in thepossibilitiesofthismostsuavely between fruit andwoodimmediatelyafter between fruit polish of fruit, and thedeliberatepatient polish offruit,
but 2-3years onthecork makefora
newness. Oncenewness. inawhilethere’s abrief Champagne,” he says. Every base wine
sees atleasttenmonthsincasksof
have tospeak.
dopey, meltingaway
ev eryone says is eryone
coping. The took hisleave, andthenitwasjustLaurent andme. and whowasinquiteahurry. He dispatchedthe wines, I ran into a wine writer who had a busy day awaiting him, domain (Clint having headed to Paris for his flight home) with Laurent theevening before, andwhenIreached the been some scuzzy days. Clint Sloan and I had eaten dinner parched, andthewaterwill alwaysbecleanandcold. becomes awell you candrinkfrom whenyou’re feeling if you candothis,you’ll have astayagainst burnout.It Other thanbeingadecenthabitofliving, you’ll findthat that, we bringmore ofourselves tothelipofglass. singlewine,andwhenwe remembermeanings orbitevery and cultureremember and that feelings and history to know thatyou tooare abletopausejustenough I get that. But I in turn need to know something. I need to know whatever maybedecisive foryou to buyornot. beautiful Champagneasthesnow felloutside. and thiswasone,todrinkthefadedglowing embersofa wines andthere are great experiences,chargedmoments, who crieswhenheremembers hiswife. There are great a lottosayanymore, whomightseemtobeaustere, but off itsold-bottlefunk,andrevealed anoldmanwithout vitality,of theirfruity butthisonedidn’t really; itthrew wines freshen intheglass,asoxygen releases what’s left finish, andthedyingsweetness that’s somoving. Some old smoky palateseemedjustalittleweary, untiltheethereal father’s wine.It wasthecolorofbutterscotch,and I’ A ve written alothere, andIrespect that you need bottle arrived, an old Grand Cellier based on 1982, 37
Montagne de Reims Vilmart & Cie
KVM-3 KVM-1 KVM-1J KVM-608 KVM-505
L .V. j .V. N
.V. .V., 1/3.0 .V., N N r” Brut, 2008 j O osé Brut, R ubis” R otes on the Cuvées otes on N ome 38 Disgorged September 2012, it combines 2010/2009 and as always is 90% PN to 10% CH. Also as always, it is the most September Disgorged Bonnes of vapor foamy a like one’s This level. NV the at best the argue, could one and Champagne, in Rosé singular Burgundy. main-course Champagne, and truly of red like a corona new to it, think serious vinosity, you’re If Mares. Vilmart & Cie “Cuvée & Vilmart Vilmart & Cie “Coeur de Cuvée” Brut, 2005 j & Vilmart and last couple with the first press, the juice, the first 2,000 liters from of the free-run this is the “heart” know, you now By successful 2005, though an atypical Coeur a markedly And it’s become an iconic Champagne. It’s liters removed. hundred coppery themselves, of oysters ones like and actually a nuance mushrooms, just a surmise of oyster There’s de Cuvée. The `05 character polish. chrome as this wine often is, but more The wine is swank and poised, not as seductive Wellfleets. a wonderful finish There’s lighter on its feet than this often lumpen vintage. it’s Club is not absent, but like Gimonnet’s of sea-salt caramels. masterpiece, a very have you great 2010 disgorgement of the 2002 Coeur de Cuvée, the May have if you as a by-the-way, (NOTE: This wine has everything.) and the best Champagne I tasted this trip. Vilmart, the best wine in the history of 80% CH now (to 20 PN) and the base wine is aged in barrique, but barely any new wood. I had very (to 20 PN) and the base wine is aged in barrique, but barely high hopes for this. 80% CH now nothing like what I expected. And it’s a classic `08 than a white gentian and hyacinth; the palate is more is compelling; 2012, the aroma October Disgorged the aerial I thought. But to be a touch sweeter, could stand It lissome, curvy and very Chardonnay. it’s but Vilmart, typical as their that the `08s would enter a trough long suspected mineral length. I’ve whiteness of the wine is striking, as is the underrating it. It’s still imagine I’m and maybe this is an example. I like the wine hugely and yet florals subdued, youthful it usually is. Coeur de Cuvée up than the miniature Cellier stretching very of a Grand coiled. Almost more Vilmart & Cie “Grand Cellier d’ Vilmart I’m coming to realize this cuvée needs three years on the cork to realize the ideal Laurent has for it. Until that time it is for it. Until has the ideal Laurent to realize on the cork years this cuvée needs three coming to realize I’m and fondue, and the creamy wine, which is than others. I tasted the current unified more sometimes a mosaic of flavors, later this year. 2012, available upcoming wine, disgorged July I thought The new with the base wine aged ten months in large barrels. guy is `10, `09, `08 and as always 70CH to 30PN, been my fancy. going into it) but that may have now (which are Creations Cuvée this had some of the minty crackle of old wine is stroppy. young you can judge, when a most of the way The finish was good, and the finish is Vilmart & Cie “Grand Cellier” Brut, Vilmart Vilmart & Cie “Grand Cellier” Brut Vilmart is not the regular N.V. Brut, but rather a superior N.V. or, seen from the other angle, the least among the other angle, from seen or, N.V. but rather a superior Brut, N.V. regular CELLIER is not the GRAND the luxury-cuvées. and foudre vines, half aged in older from Chardonnay, wine, majority vintage CELLIER D’OR is the regular GRAND half in barrique. 20% and 80% Chardonnay 50 yrs.), 100% barrique aged, the very DE CUVÉE is from oldest vines (all above COEUR sensible Laurent’s used, arising perhaps by confusion about the age of the barriques seems to be some There Noir. Pinot vintage decide. In policy of letting the oak will be newany case, some of the and some of it won’t. the quality of the Grand end with the 2000, and the fruitThis cuvée will it contained will improve CUVÉE CRÉATION. them?) and then continued, cuvée (remember started as a “millennium” It Cellier d’Or. Cellier and Grand estate. 11-hectare was one special cuvée too many for this but it turned out it S
Montagne de Reims Vilmart & Cie (and air)butis onanupward climb. orange zest.” With airitgetsliketapiocapudding atop whichyou sprinkledmaltandchocolatepowder. Still needs time tolerate an angular profile; less flesh and dough and more and ginger. citrus Last year I wrote “langoustine,saffron and It feels younger and more archly pointed than the`99. Disgorged April 2011, it’s more Chablis-like, and you need to Vilmart &Cie“CuvéeCreation” Brut,1998,3/1.5 down andwhichwe all(OK, I)underratedatfirst. but whatafarewell! It’s interesting andbuzzingwithdeliciousness.Anditbuttresses thecasefor1999,whichslimmed but has the candied lemon flavors classic to this soon-to-be-extinct cuvée. This willbe the final vintage in magnums–— richness;it recalls thesupernal2001Coeurde tension behindthesoufflélightnesslobstery Cuvée instructure thepalateiscompellingly“sweet”fact). Cornfritters,mirabelleandstrawberry; andseductive, andhas thespring-loaded Wow, some aroma! This haseasilysurmountedanydisgorgement mutenessitmighthave suffered from. (Dec. 2012,in Vilmart &Cie“CuvéeCreation” Brut,1999,3/1.5 cerebral austere ofyoung reserve magnums.Incipient complexity, andmarkedly long. Disgorged February 2012.Allyou needispatience, andplentyofit.Braised meatandroot-veggie richnessbutwiththe Vilmart &Cie“GrandCellierd’ The Magnums O r” Brut2006,3/1.5 L L j j j j L j j ( j (
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KVM-498M KVM-499M KVM-606M 39
Montagne de Reims Vilmart & Cie
in
also
big-3
growers growers
etit Meslier as etit Meslier Champagne, thanks
not specifying which
they dislike Arbanne and few telling descriptors.
Cru (clay-limestone)
er that’s as may be; what I taste that’s
on the books as “approved.” as books the on with lemon, litchi, cloves, litchi, cloves, with lemon, low pH, and “needs to be pH, and “needs low still eims // Jouy-lès-Reims like Arbanne, Petit Meslier and Meslier like Arbanne, Petit eims 1 pink-fizz in the entire region. Be
R R along
xera devastation, they say, the they say, devastation, xera Chardonnay” according to Aubrys. according Chardonnay”
wine had very of existence. The Arbanne was, as anticipated, fascinating; as anticipated, was, Arbanne The
glad there’s Arbanne and Petit Meslier in our Meslier Petit Arbanne and there’s glad peppermint, exotic peppermint, exotic Manseng; cognate is Gros
. Veltliner
eslier is the exotic: musk-melon, here the musk-melon, here eslier is the exotic: ubry’s is a seventeen hectare estate with vineyards hectare is a seventeen ubry’s m of green flavors (i.e. the tastes of green things, (i.e. the tastes of green flavors of green After the phyllo P I finally got to taste Arbanne and M I’ A wines.
romenteau (Pinot Gris), (Pinot romenteau Montagne de Montagne (with Arbanne, Petit Meslier, and Fromenteau) Meslier, oir (with Arbanne, Petit F (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier) and intriguingly and Meunier) Noir Pinot (Chardonnay, told me have growers Some Pinot. but all I can say is Meslier, Petit still full cognate was in fact The nearest hay. mirabelle and sweet Grüner nearest blended with in the world, because each unique thing is another word vocabulary Cru. all Premier Villedommange, and Pargny Jouy, from ancient varietals from such as the varieties reliable with more replanted which is permitted in Blanc, with Pinot but “Pinot” allowing to a regulation convincing. at Aubry is entirely not underripeness), apples; the N we’re we’re
these?
change rothers rothers
they are they are 40% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Meunier, grape varieties // 30% Pinot vineyard area // 17 hectares area vineyard // 11,700 cases annual production // Jouy-lès- villages & soil types
B
they stop and say “Yes! they stop and say “Yes! Champagnes, rather like a cross of Chartogne and Chiquet, but not exactly similarChampagnes, rather like a cross of Chartogne and Chiquet, but not exactly
what condition our palates condition what
expanded!
entirely original to show us. Under us. Under original to show entirely
the “regular” wines weren’t enough, enough, wines weren’t the “regular”
Cuvées Precieuses are wines made are Precieuses Cuvées ubry ubry Fils a first. And a VERY smart one. He would smart one. VERY a first. And a
A
e there any Champagnes more original then any Champagnes more e there . f the quality of t’s a hoot tasting with these guys. I can tell the twins a hoot tasting with these guys. t’s
I Ar I O either. Class, depth and detail are Class, depth abundant. They are graceful, even when they’re intense. either.
eady to have your mind Aubry? They are flowery and high-flying 40 the heading Les Aubry at a glance // Great find offering unique Champagnes. Among the best And any Champenoise more iconoclastic than the than iconoclastic more Champenoise any And Aubry has something hard to make shift with a how the wines taste // Given the breadth of the range, it’s to
in our palates had we in fact eaten. in in our palates had we having a big to themselves, constantly muttering flavors say an association you time. If ol’ Blackberry!” and log it into their book.
calibrate his pouring sequence to account for the for calibrate his pouring sequence to account had double-bypass but only because Philippe apart now, not a That’s surgery and is a changed man. April, last any smoke but he feels better and doesn’t happy reason, I wonder if his palate will change, and if it does, more. this is will change. For whether his sense-of-sweetness the doing They love always a very dry of wines. group thing; when they pour a sample flavor-association no, had lunch. “No we’d asked was whether Philippe offering wasn’t he see, You off. me cut he but began, I fine,” at1:30andthefirstthing arrived we ne year lunch; he wanted to know now, years been doing this gig twenty-seven in. I’ve were and this was
We spoke with Philippe Aubry with Philippe spoke mentioned a theory the 2005 issue, and about that We as to be known what came and thus produced was unsure, culprit. He geosmin was the by which one learns consisting of little vials of wine-flaws to spot Hell,” Of Box “Aubry’s the fly on the wall, with all of us sniffing been should have You their special torments. our work, love We disgust. bottles and wrinkling our faces in at these teensy eye-dropper can sniff some glue. should ask him if we we year man. Next L r
Montagne de Reims L. Aubry Fils striking, andthewinesalivates foryou Blanc; it’s spicy, wolfish,clear andprecise, withthefluffytexture ofthe low pressure;rye-toast butthe are iron-salts and amazing wine,thebest-ever vintageforthiscuvée.30%CH—20%Arbanne, 30%PetitA truly Meslier and20%Pinot L to watchwhere this goes. of`08,thechromewhippet-sinew jaguarsleekness;rightnow thearomas are allArbanneandPinot Gris, butI’m curious casks of205-liters,average 3rd-use. RSis3g/l.Disgorged Feb. 2013,andshows it.It’s acomplicatedcritter, withthe 20% “Pinots Gris etBlanc!” 20%Petit Meslier. 15%Arbanne.Chard. 25%PN.5%Meunier. The Chard wasin It means“the oldvinesofthecountryside.” L rocky length; coppery, mineral. apple-skin,rye, with localoysters, because ittasteslikelocaloysters iftheywere Champagne.It’s likethefleshandshell,witharusk-y, in therange,withRSbetween 5-6g/l.Idrinkthisalot,becausehere inBostonit’s poured alot,becauseit’s wicked-good Half-half 2010-2009, 45% Meunier, 25% PN, 25% CHand 5% “other!” Disgorged January 2013. It’s the L L L . . . . . A A A A A ubry Fils“ ubry Fils“ ubry FilsBrut, ubry FilsBrut, ubry FilsBrut, L L a e N N N N N ombre d’ ombre d’ .V. .V., 1/3 .V., 6/1.5
L O O L r r CampaniaeVeteres Vites” Brut,2008 S ablé BlancdesBlancs”Brut, 2007j onthefinish. Disgorged November 2012.
dry wine least dry KAB-807 KAB-408 KAB-1M KAB-1J KAB-1 41
Montagne de Reims L. Aubry Fils
KAB-3 KAB-2 KAB-606 KAB-306
ubry” Brut, 2006 j A
.V. j j .V. icolas François N N .V. j .V. N osé “ R ubry de Humbert” Brut, 2006 j 2006 Brut, de Humbert” ubry osé Brut, ablé A R S ubry Fils ubry Fils ubry Fils “Dualis” Brut, ubry Fils “Dualis” ubry Fils “ ubry A A A A . . . . 42 L smells fruityThis and tastes entirely will always be “fruity.” this wine, especially to people who assume rosés showing I love sucked out all the fructose. distilled the taste of blackberries and somehow as if you’d bone-fricking-DRY, a from a still red with the balance 35% CH, 40% PN and 12% Meunier, 2012) is 2010; it’s This disgorgement (Dec. nuance of and that hauntingly vague The palate is silvery and tangy, saw (old) wood. This time the Chard back-vintage. wood is wonderful, edition of this. mineral finish. A strong as is the deliberate, Lower than normal pressure; “Sablé” is their term for it. 35% PN/PM co-fermented, 15%CH, 20% Arbanne, 20% is their term for it. 35% PN/PM co-fermented, 15%CH, 20% “Sablé” than normal pressure; Lower was done in The Chard isn’t. though in fact it rosé, than the regular seems sweeter PM. It and 10% still red Meslier Petit wonderfullywine, this of tasted and salty the yummiest and least studious vintage I’ve is This shows. barely it barrique but finish. gravelly still with a cool twiggy edge, especially on the deliberate, yet tomato-ey; rich and generous L I need to say this in loud bold print: THIS WAS THE MOST REMARKABLE CHAMPAGNE I TASTED LAST TASTED I CHAMPAGNE THE MOST REMARKABLE WAS THIS in loud bold print: I need to say this grab some. so tiny supply, will be in It Aubry. tasted from wine I have the greatest MONTH. And it is “sablé,” no malo, and a “two seasons,” aged in new wood for It consists of 1998 Chard, a first for them, a new cuvée. It’s in en tirage went season.” It wood for “one also 1999 PN that did malo, in 4-year There’s rather than 6. i.e. 4 atmospheres production: Total any dosage. 2013. Barely in February cap), and was disgorged not a crown (a cork, 2000 with “agrafé” 1000 bottles. a couple nights Churchill Winston Cuvée (and criminally expensive) had a disappointing bottle of praised-to-the-skies I’d My been striving for. seemed to have Roger the Pol darkness I felt the gravelly this baby and as soon as I sniffed earlier, smells of outside, and when he comes in for lunch the life working spent his image-vision was of an old, stoic man who’s glass smells like pigeon The empty finish. is adamantly long, with a keen forest-y The wine him. earth and smoke follow It you see otherwise. let AubrysIt speaks to a depth the don’t very This is the opposite of frivolous. and summer truffle. meaningful wine. is extraordinary, L Their “basic” vintage wine is named for the bishop who laid the cornerstone for the Reims cathedral. It’s equal parts equal It’s cathedral. for the Reims laid the cornerstone the bishop who wine is named for vintage Their “basic” dense and and is elegant and regal 2013; the wine February , disgorged a couer de cuvée PN-PM, old vines, CH (in oak) A guy’s dried fruits, plus argan oil, too; poultry period, the veggies of roasting long; lots blueberry. aromas—roasting, almost rugged,Champagne, but generous. L
Montagne de Reims L. Aubry Fils Chardonnay from Gastronome! At their best they show a force of expressiveness borderingonthesupernatural. Gastronome! At theirbesttheyshowaforce ofexpressiveness spritzyand highlyleesy—onewinemademethinkofGimonnet’show thewinestaste// Extremely Cuvée at thetop. Chartogne-Taillet estate which occasionallysupplements ataglance//12hectare A fewrecollections… 2% grape varieties//40%Chardonnay, 38%Pinot villages &soiltypes//Merfy annual production //7,500cases vineyard area //11.5hectares Chartogne-Taillet possible toestablishwhere thewineswere mostdelicious unknowablewonderfully things seemed to be. Yes, it was to theessenceoftasting. The more we tastedthemore dosage trialsofseveral wines,andthistakesaperson it was justhim and me, tasting and talking; we did an unquenchabledesire toexperience. even asks for accolades—though these will surely come—and hardly is pursuingsomethingthatdoesn’t taketheformof not onlyinChampagne,butjustmaybeanywhere. He that heisthemostpassionatelycuriousvigneron Iknow, What didsurpriseme,andcontinuestois estate, andIwasn’t surprisedthathewasambitious. meal. Awwww! affordable, andshewantedit to bejunior’s first3-star I’d beensingingitspraisestoher, thatitwasstellarand remote 3-starinthenorthern Vosges National Park. young sontomeetmywifeandmeatL’Arnsbourg, a to wantusbuythree dozen woodenbarrels…” was needed caffeinated beverages…) I learned thatAlexandre (anddrinkingsomeurgently with Phillipe Chartogne blossoming early-Spring tree intheirgarden, schmoozing he wasinterested inwine. Then oneday, aswe satundera and itcouldn’t have happened withouther. money for it. Yes it was self-interested, but not directly, on theground inChampagne,andrefusing totakeany initsinception,by beingmyliaison launch thisportfolio
stage-ing atSelosse. “That’s allIneed;now he’s going A P S S A E o I wasn’t surprised when Alexandre assumed the ometime inthoseyears Elisabeth brought her(then) lease note;toexperience,not“know.” This year lisabeth Chartogne went faroutofherwaytohelp lisabeth Chartogne rbanne t first all I knew wastheret firstallIknew wasason. ThenIlearned answers. It’s a quest for a kind of immersion,
a friendinAvize.Racy, spicyChampagnes atthelowend;sumptuous,brioche-y (sand, claywithchalkandlimestone) N oir, 20%PinotMeunier, reproduce (havingeditedmisspellingsetc.). exchange lastyear withKevin Pike, of whichI parts fermentation/storage “eggs” inthecuverie. He hadan riven region. here, thelikesofwhichIhave never seeninthishabit- all thebasics.Suffice tosaythere’s avividspiritofinquiry source forinfoandupdates,theestate’s website gives much informationtogive here. Alexander’s blogisalovely work isalsoexcitingly new. Indeed there’s almosttoo viticulture challengedandchangedasnecessary. Cellar- horses), soilanalysesofremarkable detail,eachaspectof work, bio-dynam-ish,onemightsay. Critters (sheepsand in aman’s soul. something.” Because that’s how you measure thehunger he saidtome,“IdonotfeelgoodwhenI’m sure about believe hedrankfrom thefountainofwisdomwhen exciting young producer inChampagne.AndIalso the nextsequenceofwines. and eachformulationyou triedtomakewassmashedby even then,itwasimpossibletopredict whatwouldwork, and expressive, and the two of us agreed almost eerily. But
I believ H - (inox orenamel). difference between theeggs,barrels, thevats thoseeggs,thereConcerning isahugevinification Dear Kevin, ere’s anexample.Alexanderhasinstalledtwo
ar I I n thebarrels, theleesfrom thefermentations t begins with a new/old approacht beginswithanew/old tovineyard e moving casually. The winegrower decides e thatAlexandre isthe most Chartogne Montagne de
(legally!) withupto5% R eims //Merfy
Champagnes Champagnes
43
Montagne de Reims Chartogne-Taillet Introduction it is
are are
over over what
to to
only only
the air the air
and how and how
minerality. minerality. how they have they have how
sometimes
walls in the soil, to see walls in the soil, to see
from the soil that give the the the soil that give from
into the wine. I never tryinto the wine. I never
lazy to work or plow his vines, his vines, plow or work to lazy tant passion our young hero brings hero tant passion our young too
soil, but the terroir is first the soil. The The the soil. is first soil, but the terroir the plant to grow, but that’s all; no all; no but that’s the plant to grow, of terroir. Their land, while good (Merfy land, while good (Merfy Their of terroir.
the roots stay on top of the soil because the stay on top of the soil because the the roots
ith Chartogne-Taillet one appreciates the one appreciates ith Chartogne-Taillet aybe this is all too geeky, but what it really shows shows but what it really aybe this is all too geeky, erfy in fact lies in the so-called Coteaux de Vesle; erfy in fact lies in the so-called Coteaux de want to let the vines live in the best conditions; in the best conditions; want to let the vines live when grapes complexity, finesse, complexity, grapes wine, 4 elements that anything to the that give permit to instruct my soil or my vines, I to give. they have or what flavors to live is winegrower shame. I make a real it’s the population in the soil is living how needs if something and reacting, are the roots change I change it. What is the terroir? Some say it’s more than than more say it’s Some What is the terroir? just the take 46 elements roots the air from flavors The plant only takes 4 elements from and the lees function. I mean, if the lees are good good lees are if the I mean, lees function. and the the bottling, ageing of the wine before during the useful during the same lees couldn't be why those is mainly function Their in the bottle? ageing protection. nutrition and to keep be verySo I judge that could interesting the Champagne and only the lees in contact with I put them out. during the disgorgement, to make the year tried this I So for this reason, lees in the bottle. Champagne with the too much lees are in the other hand, if those But I tried to put those lees out influencing the wine, your just described in you with the technique the during 2 days before The gravity question: vat. bottling in an Inox in some So I tried, and I'll see the difference... be ready. once the wine will years Alexandre W M M The most impor “84%” on the Échelle de Crus) is not aristocratic.
significance is the chalk. mind and an ambitious spirit. is the questing of a restless and what the newis Which shows of Champagnes family then some. biodynamics. Here at Selosse; of his practicum a result his words: covering beach of an ocean what was once the sits on Thus its 60cm of sand depression. the Reims is now
easons. x vats. al lees production al lees production ors, and also if the e a big advantage, let a e a big advantage, egroup the lees with the egroup e the wines reduced aspects e the wines reduced esult in wood (if it's not esult in wood (if it's e for me two inseparable elements. e for me two inseparable eally helps me to reduce the sulfur me to reduce eally helps esult is: e thin and delicate than in the barrels. e thin and delicate than in the barrels. e variations, possibility to lose the freshness freshness the lose to possibility variations, e oxidation level for the wine, and we often we and wine, the for level oxidation cel is a very one). good n the eggs: a pure but also breathy wine, but also breathy n the eggs: a pure n the barrels: more wild in the barrels, wild in the barrels, more n the barrels: n the eggs, the Brownien movement helps movement the Brownien n the eggs, but also do not giv as it often happens in the ino obtain the best r flav woody and hiding the par I mor The lees do not influence the wine too much, wine who ar The r I mor of the wine, but hav big to make a batonnage or not for many r for many or not a batonnage to make I with the wine. be always in contact the lees to This r to the natur amount (thanks of sulfur), but also r
Alexandre: for and helpful; thank you This is very interesting and the explanation. sending the pictures the eggs definitely looks from The Chardonnay in movement of the Brownien Because leesy. more settle the do you the eggs being so constant, how the the wine from can then remove lees so that you would do most of gravity or barrel, a vat egg? In the egg? do this in do you that. So how Kevin, how want to know question, you I understood your If the bottling. the wine before I put out the lees from got many I've it's the right comprehension, If one: but none that could be a definitive answers, The first thing I focus on is the lees comprehension - in many articles that the eggs make I also read very fruity home, that's totally false. It wines. At but when the soil could happens on poor terroirs, and the wine isn't only influenced is respected, from mainly and also but variety, grape the by lose this very the soil, we easy fruit, obtain a and on the wine, focusing on the mineral, terroir pure result is more the stones, subsoil influence (here, our salty or stony thanks to our chalk or from specific limestone).
- 44 The reply: Kevin then wrote: Kevin
Montagne de Reims Chartogne-Taillet from the usual blurry Blancfrom deNoirs. theusualblurry The vineyard hasmore clayandlimestone,thevinematerialisallmassaleselection. The wineshows aPommard andround andfocused;far saltyandmeatysalumeria,baconysavory earthiness, of 4.2-4.5g/l. The sweetness levels: ONEzero! TWO 3.5g/l. THREE 5.5g/l. The blendof2-3gave ussomethingintheneighborhood We thenblendedsamples1-2andalso2-3,agreed 2and3. equalparts thatthisfinalblendwasperfect; not worrisomeatthisstage;it’s amore mainstream PN,betterbalanced,thoughmaybealittletoosmooth. raises itatleastalevel, thoughthefinishisstilladmonishing. Thethird andfinalsample shows more dosageonthenose,but that becomes a bit dour on the end. fabulous entry The DOSAGE TRIAL FOR THIS SINGLE-VINEYARD 100% PINOT NOIR: The Chartogne-Taillet “ treads yet notheavynorcumbersome. what precedes itissopolishedandporcini-like you barely register it.Anotherfoodfizz,awineofsolidbootswith deep of savors; it’s butmore chewy grass-fedveal thanthegaminessofLesBarres. You maynoteafinishofsome asperity, but clearly too sweet at5.5g/l. and but wewith a wash bothfelt the wine was best with 4.5g/l, which was/is determinedly dry I’ll spare you thedetailsofdosagetrialswe did– writemeifyou wantthem—butinthiscasethethird samplewas CLAY IN THE SOIL. A NEW BOTTLING OF A SINGLE-VINEYARD MEUNIER, FROM A GRAFTED VINEYARD WITH MORE Chartogne-Taillet “ spices, likeChinese5-spiceinaglass;butterscotchandbacony savor; easilyandby farthebestPMI’ve yet tasted. spicyandprofound,and chewier; super-animateddynamic; it’s butwithamore complexinterplayof dry stillvery If you knowfineold-vinesPMfrom Loriot(in thevery Festigny) thissmellsratherlike it, butthepalateisentirely deeper The sweetness levels: ONE1.5g/l. TWO 2.5g/l. THREE (thefinalchoice)5.5g/l. The One. We bothknewinstantly. sample wassimilarbutmore extravagant, thoughthefinishwascuriouslysweet-sour. Thethird andfinalsample wasclearly buthere aroma andapalatebalancedon-the-dry-side, has aformidable it’s andanimation. OK,withsomuchfruit The second DOSAGE TRIALS FOR THIS SINGLE-VINEYARD UNGRAFTED OLD-VINESPINOT MEUNIER: The first sample Chartogne-Taillet “ grown up. It’s now, farintoLallementterritory a thrillingdeepastonishingnon-vintageChampagne. The finalwineisrifewithstuff;mineral,savor, meadandapplebivalve, entirely silkyandfondue,entirely loving and The sweetness levels: ONE:4.5g/l. TWO 5.5g/l. THREE 6.5g/l.FOUR(hisandmypreference) 7.5g/l.FIVE8.5g/l. winewas#4.SubjectivelyThe oneIlikedmostasaChartogne Ihankered for#5.But that’s justme. pullingmineralsample wasbackintofruit behindit,theoppositeof#4. to anticipateashis“style.” sampleIthoughtwashisstyle,fluorescent,The fourth snappy butwithfruit. Thefifthandfinal and thusunknit. The third samplewasprettier, more melodicandfeminine.Best sofar, tenderbutnotwhatI’d very come sample wasmore coarseandunknit,hard andshrill.Isuspecteditwasinthe danger-zone, sweeter than#1butnotsweet enough PN. The DOSAGE TRIAL FORNON-VINTAGE BRUT: The base-wineis60%2010and40%`09-`08—it’s 60%CHand40% Chartogne-Taillet “Cuvée Chartogne-Taillet “Cuvée Chartogne-Taillet “Cuvée Chartogne-Taillet “Cuvée first samplewasbrash andsnappy andoystery, maybeatictoodry, butbalancedinaleansinewyway. The second L L L es es Barres” es O A lliées” rizeaux” S S S S te.- te.- te.- te.- A A A A E E nne” Brut, nne” Brut, nne” Brut, nne” Brut, xtra-Brut, 2008,6/750mlj j j xtra Brut,2008,6/750mlj E xtra-Brut, 2008,6/750mlj N N N N .V., 1/3 .V., 6/1.5 .V.,j 12/375mlj .V.j j second sample shows more it’s fruit, less avuncular, but the dialectic L j j j L j j j
first samplehas a stunning aroma and a KCT KCT KCT KCT-1M KCT-1H KCT KCT-1 -808 -808 -508 -508 -708 -1J -1J 45
Montagne de Reims Chartogne-Taillet -6 -9 -306 KCT KCT KCT
.V. j .V. N osé Brut, R 46 All 2010, disgorged Jan. 2013, 60-40 CH-PN; it’s more silvery than last year’s but just as remarkable; red beets and beets red remarkable; as just but silvery year’s last more than it’s CH-PN; 60-40 2013, Jan. disgorged 2010, All You to make. with a statement embedded; this is a rosé and the laser-like fruit is more oystery, more tomato-water; it’s almost eat it. Chartogne-Taillet Chartogne-Taillet Chartogne-Taillet Millésime Brut, 2006 j Chartogne-Taillet 2012, November Disgorged Mother’s.) in that case, wine. (Or Father’s the `04 was still first edition of this cuvée; His but his wine, with its vivid “formula” his parents’ as always, so it’s the same parcels still 60-40 PN-CH and made from these are just acknowledge let’s know, You with perfectly judged RS. tobacco-ey, plummy, clear stainless steel aromas; solid laser- on clay); (though this one grows they seem “chalky” vivid wines, with almost mentholated aromas; arrestingly conciliation of peony and duck breast. with a lovely like coconutty, This is so stern and earthy it could almost be Chetillon; jasmine and lemon-zest, with green woodruffy even elements, This is so stern and earthy with green almost be Chetillon; jasmine and lemon-zest, it could gives the vineyard agrees Alexandre a bit Sauvignon-ish. it’s oysters—or to be an oyster—and He intended it for flinty. I like or which could be exaggerated in high-acid years. elements, which dosage might blanket, wine with some pyrene this but I liked the `07 more. Chartogne-Taillet Blanc de Blancs “Heurtebises” Brut, 2008 Blanc de Blancs “Heurtebises” Chartogne-Taillet
Montagne de Reims Chartogne-Taillet flowery thanfruity, andit remains to beseen where and things tosayabout2009are, itisripeand strong, less look likeuntilitisoutofitschildhood . So theonlyaccurate we hardly know justwhat aChampagnevintagewillfinally more kvetchy ayear on.But Iambeginningtolearnthat insufficient dosage. Thevintageseemslesssanguineand that growers willreact to its low acidsandgive thewines “issue” with`09,suchasitmaybe,isbasedona suspicion became sensuousandsilky, showing andstarted class.My turned intogracefulswanswithtime. They slimmed down, rather vulgaronfirstglance,butthose young ducklings another vintagemarked by yellow-fruit andwhichseemed heavy-footed – or so it seems. 2009 recalls the young `99s, wines are quiteadamant andsometimeseven clunkyand vintageasitentered cheerful theNVcuvées,butvintage 2009 isacaseinpoint.It lookedlikeasunnyround actual vintagewineisdifferent, andwilloftensurpriseyou. mislead, becausethequalityofmaterialthatgoesinto begin toappearintheNVcuvées. Yet Ifinditcaneasily ost ofyou know thatthevintage-wines,i.e., (if there isone)are where thevalues are. ones above theNVlevel butbelow thetête-de-cuvéelevel These willmakeyou humble. Champagne Vintages I M t’s sussingavintage when itswines tempting tostart this vintage,and thatitappearstobereliable. It doesn’t the Chardonnays. At thispointI’d sayIreally really like mineral blade-endthatsomany ofthemshowed, especially byarrived, theincisiveness Iwasstruck of thechalky it entered theNVblends. Yet whenthevintage-wines 2006 lookedlikeabigchummy galoot ofavintageas beautiful wines. They don’t seem like long keepers though. in manycases. Yet even thislittlevintagehasgiven some 2007 is…small,amodestyear ofbarely adequateripeness, miniature. vintage of the decade after 2002, which it resembles in `98. So I’m tentatively declaringthat2008isthebest orMargaine,Hébrart nothinglikethosewere madein But whenyou tasteawinelike the`08Special Clubsfrom toemerge. into ashellfrom whichitisonlyjuststarting 1998, andwhenthatvintageleftitsbabyhood itwent on. But Ifeltthatway aboutanotherfloralhigh-acid year, fabulous. It feelslikeaneasyvintagetohave ahugecrush acid andextremely floweryvintagethatalwayssmells 2008 has been lovable from the first instant. It’s a high- how itwillfindits inner gracefulness. 47
Vintages ou humble. is back from its cave, and showing well again well and showing its cave, 1998 is back from is a beauty, or has become one. It’s the closest or has become one. It’s 1999 is a beauty, f you find any older vintages, 2000 is/was a good find any older f you Like I said, Champagne will make y I
got fast, so drink `em if you that seems to be aging year `em. thing to the Champagne paradigm, and very tasty now, will keep and ought to be though the top Chardonnays kept. Chardonnay. in Best manner. acid-focused snappy a in decent year, 1997 was an undemanding and entirely tasted in eons. 1996 is and will probably which I haven’t since its fruit it finito now, always be a conundrum. Is a still- detached from and seems to have is over-mature could how And phase? a just this is Or acidity? stinging when so many wines taste so decadent? it be a “phase” I suspect the know. I don’t know, I don’t know, I don’t and acidity, people who love vintage was misjudged by who often make the mistake of supposing wines age from those wines profound how I also remember But acidity. die, never thought they’d when we tasted in their youth, they Then some of them got old before old. grow or even young. ever were for each `02 I think may be developing hastily, I open hastily, for each `02 I think may be developing or four that want to be left alone, as they should three excellent of this wines great the any case, In stage. at this could ask vintage offer everything the Champagne lover including a charge leading flowers with aromas focused for; and keen power of restrained fruits and spices; textures classic parameters, nothing showing flavors expressiveness; Certainly a marvelous potentially vintage; out-of-the-way. a classic. of them were the purest most vivid examples of the purest best of them were 48 is the Great One, about which the only caveat seems which the only caveat about One, 2002 is the Great Yet of some examples. quick evolution to be the markedly gave few2003 gave vintage wines, not because of the heat sometimes The wines were but because of the tiny crop. marooned good and always atypical, as if someone were a wine there–—in in Chablis and tried making sparkling hot vintage. seems to have become the badge of entry2004 seems to have into the crop, was a huge It True-Champagne-Lovers. society of But and much of its wine was competent and unexciting. the Green shown. have Champagne may ever flavors green tarragon, spearmint, chartreuse, like balsam, wintergreen, vintage, and always a fetching isn’t It lime-zest. verbena, land on when you time, but whew, some wines need more toes. curl your a good one it’ll is the geosmin vintage or whatever the hell it is, or 2005 is the geosmin vintage or whatever it is not is an undisciplined power; basic nature was. Its it tastes clean. Often when it’s a gracious vintage, even one finds Yet Blanc. like the soapacious side of Pinot wines of a certain gracefulness that absorbed exceptions, of fruit. And as for the dubious aspects, that their strength is say can I had…all them of so many thing rotten-potato know didn’t to HUM-BLLLE… because we get ready let’s where know don’t we and now or why, it came from where or why. disappearing to (in some wines) it’s suggest any adolescent funks or tantrums.
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