Global 國際茶亭 Hut Tea & Tao Magazine September 2016

Special Extended Edition

Taiwanese Tea History, processing & Lore GL BAL TEA HUT Tea & Tao Magazine ContentsIssue 56 / September 2016

Nostalgia It is that special time of year again: time for the extended special edition of our maga- zine, with lots of extra pages to explore a tea Love is topic in greater depth! This year, we’re staying home, touring the island of to learn more about Taiwanese oolong tea, sipping changing the world cups of Nostalgia along the way—one of the best we’ve ever shared! bowl by bowl Features 17 INTRODUCTION Special thanks to Li Guang Chung 27 HOW OOLONG GOT ITS NAME 29 29 VARIETALS OF TAIWANESE OOLONG 43 THE LOST ART OF OOLONG Interview with He Jian 49 A HISTORY OF TAIWANESE OOLONG By Ruan Yi Ming 57 73 57 ORGANIC OF THE NORTH 73 TRADITIONAL OOLONG NOWADAYS Interview with Lu Li Zhen Regulars 03 TEA OF THE MONTH “Nostalgia,” 2016 Traditional Oolong, Li Shan, Taiwan 37 GONGFU EXPERIMENTS 43 Outside the Boundaries 77 TEAWAYFARER Caitlin Mercado, USA © 2016 by Global Tea Hut All rights reserved.

懷 No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored 舊 in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by 之 any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, re- cording, or otherwise, without prior written permis- 情 sion from the copyright owner. From the Editor n September, the weather in Taiwan turns to tea. Traveling further into any tea region, history or topic It cools down and the oppressive heat of the sum- exposes just how vast, rich and varied the tea world is. mer lifts, allowing us to open the doors and drink a This can be intimidating, but it doesn’t have to be. It can greater variety of tea. And then there are the rains: a also be inspiring. Even after decades of study, I am often Itea session in the rain is one of the true joys of a tea lover. amazed at how much there is still to learn. Like a true The sibilant drone lulls you and encourages the tranquility romance, I want to know everything about my beloved, of the bowl. It is a joy to be inside—dry, warm and full recognizing also that I can’t. “Still in love after all these of contentment for all that you have in your life. At such years,” Master Lin often says. times, oolong seems to bring the right melody for that We hope that this issue inspires you to learn more drone of rain, and we find ourselves drinking traditional about, discuss and appreciate . Taiwan is our oolongs, aged oolongs and also Cliff Tea all the time. Of home. We love it here. The people are amongst the kindest course, that also means more gongfu tea around the Center. in the world and tea is very much at home here: in every Though it means a lot of extra work, this is one of our home and in all social settings—from monastery to fam- favorite times of year. The Extended Edition of Global ily gathering—inspiring peace and tranquility as well as Tea Hut is a chance for us to get into a single topic more friendship, hospitality and a love for kindness. And though deeply, making lasting contributions to the tea world. We it may not always be overtly discussed, we hope that all do this in lieu of a gift. And we spend several months dis- the interest, curiosity and demand for Taiwanese tea that cussing and planning, thinking about which topic we’d this issue generates will bring more of the right people like to explore more fully, knowing that these issues are a to the tea table: you! There is a growing organic, sustain- big part of the education in tea that Global Tea Hut pro- able movement in Taiwan, amongst farmers and tea lovers vides. Our first year, September 2014, we created the larg- alike. But it is struggling. All the farms we’ll visit in this est English-language publication on puerh tea (except for issue are, of course, organic and sustainable. However, the a sociological work by a Yunnanese scholar), which has majority aren’t. While it’s wonderful to discuss tea process- since become an invaluable source of tea wisdom for the ing, , brewing, culture and all else tea related, none thousands of tea lovers who have downloaded and read the of that will matter if there isn’t any tea. What will an issue online version. Articles from that monumental issue have on Taiwanese tea mean in fifty or a hundred years if there also been posted in many of our Further Readings posts aren’t any leaves? Wouldn’t we be a part of the problem if on our blog, which enhance and contextualize topics and we caused a great demand for Taiwanese tea from various also point out relevant articles we’ve already published. regions without this caveat? Explore and drink, as no mag- Then, in 2015, we translated and annotated the entire azine—no matter how extended—will be as educational or Cha Jing by the Tang Dynasty tea scholar . The hun- as rich as a tour of Taiwanese teas in the drinking of them. dreds of annotations alone have made the translation a But do so responsibly, caring about and preserving the teas much-needed contribution to the scholarship of tea. Lu you explore and the environment that made them. This is Yu is the most famous of all tea sages, and his influence is the Global Tea Hut way! without rival. This year, we’ve decided to stay closer to home, explor- ing and learning about Taiwanese tea together. Taiwan is, after all, one of the tea capitals of the world. As such, making an issue about Taiwanese tea, including culture, Wu De brewing methods, history, etc., would have exceeded the pages of even an extended edition. We had to focus our exploration a bit more. We decided to cover the many, varied oolong teas of Taiwan: where they grow, some of Further Reading their history, how they are processed, what varietals they are made from, and so on. You could say that this issue is This month, we hope to expand this already in-depth a geographical survey of Taiwanese oolong tea, including issue to make it one of the most comprehensive publi- not just where each tea is made, but how. As you will see, cations on Taiwanese tea ever. We hope that this issue our preferences for organic, traditionally processed oolong will contribute to a growing awareness of how wonder- have steered this vessel and very much determined the ori- ful and beautiful Taiwan is. entation and destinations on our journey. *Further Readings are posted on our blog each month.

2 of the

o explore Taiwanese tea We talk a lot about sustainability the ecology surrounding the cleared further than we ever have around here, but it is a topic worth area where monoculture is occurring, before, we needed a very discussing, and over again. In the and that negative impact will even- Tspecial tea along the way—something written by Emperor tually influence humanity. If we had worth stopping for, even amongst the Huizong, which we translated in to make such a sacrifice in the name gloriously lush mountains of Taiwan. April, he says that the arts, includ- of survival, for medicine that could We’ve sent out some great Taiwan- ing tea, are all flourishing because of save or ease the suffering of many, ese oolong teas over the years. Some a time of peace and prosperity. This for example, then it might be worth were special because of the work of the suggests that tea is, indeed a lux- weighing the benefits versus the long- farmer who produced them, like Mr. ury, even when used medicinally or term consequences of such so-called Xie’s Three Daughters or the GABA as a part of one’s spiritual cultiva- “conventional farming” (we think tea we sent one autumn; others were as tion. And if there ever was a time we the way plants have grown, naturally rich in history as they were in ecology, could afford luxuries that come at the from the ground for millions of years, like the Old Man Dong Ding Master expense of Nature (a big “if”), now is should be the real “conventional;” it’s Tsai donated or the special roasted not that time. It is important that we strange that such unhealthy practices Buddha’s Palm Master Lu donated. have more discussions about environ- have become so ingrained as to be This month’s tea is another gem in mental sustainability and the impor- “conventional”). Risking the health the Global Tea Hut oolong crown: an tance of how the things we make of the world and people to make sure eco-conscious, traditionally processed affect the world we are a part of. And everyone has enough food might be Li Shan oolong roasted by one of the as the second-most-consumed sub- worth discussing (might), though the most famous and best tea roasters in stance on Earth, Tea has an important lack of sustainability in such farming Taiwan’s rich tea history. As you can voice in such councils. makes the environmental view seem see, this tea has a lot going for it! There are nuances, but mostly the to be the clear and obvious choice. We send out a lot of magical teas, problems are obvious: feeling separate However, harming the environment and so many of them have been stun- from our environment and Nature and risking your own and other peo- ners. This month’s tea ranks amongst (a kind of spiritual illness in itself), ple’s health over a luxury like tea the best of them—right at the very humans have misunderstood the very seems absurd. peak of all Global Tea Hut teas! And real connection between the health And if tea is less of a beverage/lux- the three characteristics that make it of our environment and our selves. ury to you and more of an aspect of an exceptional Taiwanese oolong all You can’t have a healthy organism in self-cultivation or Dao, then the need invite further discussion and learning an unhealthy environment. Even if for the tea to be clean and grown in together: it’s sustainably grown, tradi- agrochemicals can be shown to have a way that does not harm the Earth, tionally processed and master-roasted minimal effects on humans, which is farmers or those with whom you by one of Taiwan’s best and most doubtful, especially in the long term, share it is even more essential. Our tea famous roasters, Tsai Ming Xun. they are definitely not healthy for should give, not take from the world.

3 Nostalgia

Li Shan, Taiwan Check out the Tea of the Month video to 2016 Traditional Oolong learn more! Taiwanese www.globalteahut.org/videos ~2000 Meters Tea of the Month Most of us trying to cultivate our- selves realize that our conduct will form the basis of our practice and also help us gauge the results. When we start cultivating the qualities of our highest self, a compass of com- passion starts forming and our con- duct in speech, action and thought starts being oriented in the direction of loving-kindness. Our ability to live from that orientation, along with our mistakes when we don’t, will be our guide in knowing how our practice is going. But these days, understanding the effects of one’s choices is more dif- ficult, as the globe becomes more con- nected. We have what some Zen mas- ters call “ghost karmas.” Ghost karmas are the results we can’t see, as they happen too subtly or too far away. Nowadays, our choices can impact the lives of people very far away, like which tea we choose, for example. For that reason, it is essential that we pur- chase and then prepare tea skillfully. If our aim is to find peace and connection to Nature through our tea practice, then we will be frustrated by conventional tea. How could we claim that the Center is a place of peace if the whole place orbits a tea practice that is built upon tea produced in a way that is violent to Nature? What would connection to Nature look like if the vehicle of that connection is Complaining about problems, the switch. Why wouldn’t they choose offensive to Nature? In trying to cre- agricultural or otherwise, is not the to grow tea in a way that is healthier ate peace or harmony with the natural Global Tea Hut way. We’d rather dis- for their land, their families and their world, we must use tea that is grown cuss the solutions, or at least talk customers? The only reason not to is in a way consistent with this goal. about the problems in light of change. if it is challenging to make a living Also, the way the tea is grown and There are four ways that we tea lovers doing so, or if they can earn more by processed, including the motivation can make a change in the world of increasing their production through behind it, will determine its ability tea, and perhaps in our relationship agro-chemicals. By creating a greater to bring such harmony into our lives. to Nature in general: choose only sus- demand for sustainable, clean tea and Harmony starts on the farm. We’ve tainable tea (obviously), use less tea, putting pressure on tea merchants all tasted the difference between a take care of the farmers and educate to carry such teas, we can all create store-bought, “conventional” tomato others. Each of these is worth dis- a market that encourages more and and one grown in a garden by some- cussing briefly as part of the eco-con- more farmers to make the change. one who loves gardening. The latter sciousness of our Tea of the Month, The second way we can help is better in every way: flavor, aroma before we turn to the traditional pro- comes out of the first, though it may and the way it feels in our bodies. cessing and roasting by Tsai Ming seem more philosophical and less Even as hospitality, interest or hobby, Xun. practical. The fact is that we cannot tea that harms Nature and the lives of Choosing sustainable farming is move forward by exclusion. We have others is unlikely to result in connec- the easiest and most obvious of the to include, remembering that farm- tion between hearts, especially since ways we can help. Don’t let vendors ers are the first victims of this kind of it is a sense of distance and separation convince you that this doesn’t mat- agriculture. They are the ones exposed that causes many people to ignore the ter. It does. Most farmers are trying to the chemicals in their strongest effects their purchasing decisions have to make a living, and the larger and form, and often the first to suffer on the ecology in Asia, as well as on more influential the eco-centric tea pesticide poisoning or cancer due the health and lives of local people. market is, the more people will make to exposure. We cannot ask farmers

5/ Nostalgia (Huai Jiu Zhi Qing, 懷舊之情) around the world to take care of the Tea merchants often promote tea, Finally, it is important for us all environment if they are not cared tea brewing methodology or even to spread this message to let more for. Due to centuries of feudalism, teaware that increases how much tea tea lovers know that their approach farming has become an undesirable we use. Obviously, they want us to matters and that they can make a dif- career, without thanks or respect. consume more. But the fact is that ference to the Earth, to the lives of However, we all need to remember properly grown and prepared tea is farmers and even on agriculture itself! that no matter what we do—doctor, very patient and a very small amount Recently, we went into a tea shop in lawyer or musician—we do it because can satisfy you for a whole day. Just the United States and our friend asked of farmers. If we had to find/create like food, if tea is grown and pro- the clerk if their was organic. all our own food, we’d have time for cessed properly and with care and The young woman answered the way nothing else. Actually, farming should then prepared in like fashion, we don’t she’d been trained to: ignorantly. She be the most respected career, as it sup- need so much to stay healthy. A lit- said, “No, but that is a good thing. ports and facilitates all careers. When tle tea medicine is enough for a day, Tea doesn’t taste nice when it is farmers are cared for and their families just like a few vegetables grown prop- organic.” Though this was sad to hear, have no financial needs, when they are erly and sustainably in nutrient-dense it was also a call to action. Education respected and honored for their con- environments will satisfy most of our is needed, and it should be free of tributions to society—only then do nutritional needs. Using less tea is endorsement. They need a Global Tea we have the right to ask them to care probably the most significant thing a Hut subscription at that shop! for their earth. If farmers are strug- tea lover can do to influence tea’s over- Our Tea of the Month comes from gling to make ends meet, discussing all environmental impact. This means one of a small, rare but growing kind environmental issues is moot. This is less each session and less throughout of sustainable, natural tea farm in cen- why it is important for our tea to be the month as well. When the tea is tral Taiwan. Finding high-mountain fair trade, supporting and contribut- fine, and prepared properly, we don’t oolong from places like Li Shan that ing to the lives of the farmers who cre- need much. This is a good reason to is grown sustainably is still rare, but ate our precious leaves. cultivate one’s brewing skills as well. more and more such farms surface.

6 Tea of the Month

There was a time when we rarely—if have you believe. We have been over selves or sold to larger corporations. ever—drank Taiwanese oolong tea. this before: different processing tech- This demand for greater quantities of There was low-elevation tea, like the niques evolved over time to suit differ- tea drove oolong production into pre- wonderful tea produced by Mr. Xie, ent varietals of tea. Farmers developed viously uncharted territory, creating and some farms in Sun Moon Lake their processing skills to bring the best new obstacles and challenges along were making red tea, as well as sev- out of the local varietal(s) they worked the way. eral farms in Pinglin that were mak- with. Such improvements happened Traditional oolong processing is ing , but finding clean through innovation, insight and some the most complicated and skilled of tea from the central mountains was trial and error. And while you can all tea production. This is not to say nigh impossible. The reason other process a region’s varietal(s) using the that it takes little skill to make a fine regions had more sustainable tea is methods of another place, it won’t be , for example. It takes a great that such tea isn’t as popular in the the same. And any tea lover will be deal of skill, in fact. But traditional central highlands. The value and rep- able to tell the difference. That said, oolong is more complicated and del- utation of “high-mountain oolong” oolong tea is semi-oxidized and tra- icate and there’s a narrower margin made large-plantation conventional ditionally the range of semi-oxidation of error—misprocessed leaves are rig- farms too profitable for farmers to was much narrower. As we will discuss orously down-sorted (even more so think about changing. The trend shortly, the range of semi-oxidation in less-profitable yesteryears). It takes towards sustainable tea began because is much greater nowadays, so saying decades to master. In fact, it will be of a growing environmental awareness an oolong is “traditionally processed” decades before a son is allowed to in Taiwan in general and also because means it falls into that narrower, supervise an entire production with lower-altitude regions, like Dong higher range of oxidation, as oolong confidence. And one thing we all love Ding, began using eco-conscious was processed for hundreds of years about tea is that it comes to us as an farming as a way to distinguish them- until the 1970s-80s. Simply put, tra- unfinished leaf. So much of the qual- selves and compete with higher-eleva- ditionally processed oolong means ity is changed with brewing skills, in tion farms. Nowadays, some farms are higher oxidation and roast. other words. Those of you with expe- starting to make the switch and you Oolong tea began some time rience brewing traditionally processed can find the rare Ali Shan or Li Shan in the early Qing Dynasty (1644- oolong will know just how finicky, tea that was grown sustainably, like 1911). It is withered indoors and out, sensitive and ultimately unforgiving our beautiful Tea of the Month. shaken, fired (sha qing), rolled and it can be. It requires the most skill roasted. It is the shaking that really (gongfu) to prepare well, and some- distinguishes oolong from other kinds times preparing it well makes all the of tea. (We’ll discuss this in greater difference between a glorious and sour Traditional Processing detail later.) This kind of processing cup! The fact that the processing takes went on relatively unchanged, with decades to master and requires great To understand why traditional minor improvements, until modern skill, has a tight margin of error and processing is rare, we have to once times. It wasn’t until Taiwan began requires brewing skills to make a fine again review a short history of Tai- modernizing that things began to cup was hardly compatible with the wanese tea. There is a growing trend change, influencing the entire tea increased mainstream demand for tea of traditionally processed oolong, world in many and varied ways. that occurred at the time. Farmers which in some ways follows the In the 1970s, everything was needed tea production that was mech- organic trend—in that it also began “Made in Taiwan” the way it is all anized and easy to master, allowing as a way for lower-elevation regions from today. This industrializa- employees to be trained in a matter like Dong Ding to compete in a mar- tion brought prosperity to Taiwan. As of weeks; they needed a wide margin ket that was leaving them behind as Emperor Huizong said in the Trea- of error so that slightly misprocessed well as in response to organic farming tise on Tea we published in April, it leaves would go unnoticed; and they methods. This is because organic tea is only when the land is prosperous needed the tea to be easy to prepare so responds much, much better to tradi- and peaceful that people can pursue that consumers could put it in a ther- tional processing since the leaves are art and culture like tea. And as the mos, a , a mug or a pot and often bug-bitten and therefore oxidize Taiwanese economy started expand- it would turn out fine. They needed differently than whole leaves that were ing, and food, shelter and life were all lightly oxidized oolong. protected by pesticides. Before we dis- abundant, the people started refining Light oxidation and little to no cuss the history of oolong in Taiwan, and exploring their rich Chinese heri- roasting produces a greener kind of we should first explain what tradi- tage and culture, including, of course, oolong that is easier to make, has tional processing is. tea, teaware, brewing methodology, a wider margin of error and can be Oolong is a semi-oxidized tea. etc. There was a boom in , brewed any way you like, maintain- Don’t be misled by this statement and as demand went through the roof. ing a bright, flowery fragrance that start thinking that “all tea is Camellia Small, aboriginal tea farms slowly appeals to the mainstream. This shift sinensis and the difference is in the started changing into large planta- in tea production later moved to the processing,” as many authors would tions, owned by the families them- mainland as well. This changed the tea

7/ Nostalgia (Huai Jiu Zhi Qing, 懷舊之情) Traditional Packaging hough we can’t send you all a 150-gram package of this month’s T tea, we can show it to you and celebrate that Mr. Tsai took the time to package this tea traditionally, just as it was processed. Because of the higher oxidation and roast, traditional oolong didn’t need to be vacuum-sealed (a method that creates a lot of waste). It was wrapped in paper and would only get better with time. The paper let the tea age properly and was convenient for folding up and refolding the tea after each use. Watching old tea vendors quickly fold up 150-gram packages of tea is something every tea lover should witness! They deftly fly through the many folds, which result in a rectangular paper box that fits perfectly around the tea. It goes without saying that tea drinkers back then would have known how to refold their packages, though with less speed or skill than the shopkeeper. Our Tea of the Month was wrapped by hand in a cool vintage paper with prints of traditional “Formosa” tea ads and a descrip- tion of traditional processing. The vintage-style wrapping and print add nostalgia to the tea. Most of the time, packaging says little about a tea, and the more well-packaged it is, the lower the quality tends to be. As in all stages of , anything that stands out is probably distracting from or covering up a fault. But this is the exception, as the love and extra care it took to hand-wrap this tea is a testament to the way it was produced.

world, including teaware, tea brewing their processing the way they did: genre known for clean tea (which is, and even puerh production and schol- to bring out the best in oolong vari- of course, another reason we don’t arship. As a result of these changes, etals. There’s also a reason why it went drink much of it at the Center). Taiwanese tea lovers began switching relatively unchanged for centuries. Though lower-altitude regions like to puerh because they didn’t like the Creating lightly oxidized oolong did Dong Ding have begun processing domestic transition to lighter oolong. breathe some fresh air into the oolong oolong with more oxidation and roast And their interest reinvigorated a world, resulting in many new innova- to stand out, and that has meant that deteriorating puerh culture, sowing tions and some wonderful new teas, some higher farms have also made the field that would grow into the vast but for a while, the new swallowed the limited amounts of traditional tea, garden of puerh we enjoy today. traditional whole. it is still rare to find tea from higher While lightly oxidized oolong can Due to marketing, the mainstream altitudes that has been traditionally be wonderful, it is often very fragrant started somewhat mistakenly regard- processed. Usually, when this does without much body. It is also rarely ing altitude as equivalent to quality, happen, it is because a shop owner produced in a healthy, sustainable way and lower-altitude farms lost a lot has ordered such rough tea (maocha) that is good for the Earth. Most of of patronage. Some of these farms because he wants to roast it himself, the time, it is more like a tasty appe- switched to organic and/or tradi- like our Tea of the Month. And, we tizer than a good meal. You may have tional processing to make themselves should remember, even so-called “tra- prepared a lightly oxidized oolong for stand out from greener high-moun- ditionally-processed” oolong in Tai- guests and then looked around after- tain oolong tea. As a result, traditional wan nowadays is nowhere near as oxi- wards, wondering what tea to drink. processing has once again become dized nor as roasted as tea was before Tea lovers are rarely satisfied by such popular in Taiwan, which is a great the 1970s. a tea, in other words. (That also suits thing for those of us who appreciate it Our Tea of the Month is very the producers, of course, since we more. No matter how you feel about unique for being an eco-conscious then drink more tea.) There are excep- lightly oxidized oolong, it is nice to high-mountain oolong, but also for tions to this, but usually traditionally have both. We just hope that more of being traditionally processed. Hope- processed oolong tea is richer, more the greener oolong producers will start fully, you can taste how clean this tea full-bodied and satisfying to drink. making the switch to Earth-friendly is and why traditional processing suits There’s a reason that farmers adapted agriculture, as it is definitely not a oolong tea, especially when it is clean.

8 Tea of the Month

You almost have to process such tea dried and roasted by Mr. Tsai Ming that for the location of his tea house. with more oxidation and roast, since Xun, a true legend in the oolong In those days, tea and all things cul- the leaves are often bug-bitten. roasting world. tural were booming and the In traditional oolong processing, thrived. there is no stage more important than After ten years, the tea house craze the roasting. The roast is what brings Tsai Ming Xun in Taiwan started declining and the out the best flavor in the tea and it entire tea market was subsiding. Mr. requires a high degree of skill. The Tsai Ming Xun doesn’t come from Tsai carried on for another five years master must understand each batch generations of tea processing, but before making a decision to convert of tea and adjust the duration and he has started a legacy of his own. the teahouse into a shop and just sell temperature very subtly to roast (and He was born in 1963 in Zhiayi, Tai- tea for a living. He has carried on sell- often re-roast) the tea to perfection. wan. At a very young age, he fell ing tea at the same location until now, Master roasting is hard to come by in love with all things tea, teaware making his tea spot more than thirty these days, which is another reason and antiques, saying, “I only loved years old. that many farmers turned to lightly the household items: the things that After the severe earthquake of oxidized, greener oolong. To complete have really and truly been used.” He 1999, much of central Taiwan was the hat trick of sustainably grown and opened a teahouse in 1985 at the age destroyed. Many tea areas were neg- then traditionally processed oolong, of twenty-two. He had gone down atively impacted, and tea lovers of all our tea was superbly and skillfully to Tainan for school and so chose kinds pitched in to help out in dif- ferent ways. In a previous issue, we tain the gardens and to harvest when that it is just the opposite—roasting talked about how teaware makers like the time came. is the last, and therefore least import- Deng Ding Sou gave free lessons to As we have often discussed, tea ant stage.” He says that each step is affected farmers to start them on a dif- production was different back in the more important than the next, so the ferent career path. At that time, Mr. day. Tea houses and shops would buy terroir and garden (location) are the Tsai bought up three small tea farms rough tea (maocha) from farmers and most influential factor in tea quality. to help give those families a chance then roast it to suit their customers’ “This is because each step determines to start over in the city. He worked needs. Mr. Tsai roasted all the tea for what follows: the location/terroir together with other locals, but says his teahouse and then shop for many will determine the best varietal of tea that he gave up on that after a few years and developed a reputation as to plant. The varietal and weather of years. “At that time, and sometimes one of the best tea roasters in Taiwan, that season/place will then determine still today, local farmers have a very winning competitions along the way. the harvest, which will determine different view of tea than us. They just He told us that if you had asked him the processing, and so on.” When we see it as a cash crop, not knowing how then, he would have said that roasting asked him how he became known as much passion and culture there is in was the most important part of mak- a master roaster, he said, “I think one tea. They don’t love it the way we do.” ing fine oolong tea. But these days reason I was so good at roasting tea For that reason, he started out mak- he feels otherwise: “Now that I have back in the day is that I had a unique ing tea himself with the help of some gone deeper into tea production and palate and knew how to choose tea employees he hired to help him main- have my own gardens, I actually feel that would suit my style of roasting.

完 美 芬 芳 Tea of the Month

Looking back, I realize that I would lacked body. And they often leave the microbial life and many other sub- turn down lots of maocha, saying, ‘I drinker uncomfortable. He said that tle influences we can’t even begin to don’t want to roast that, but I do want many modern tea lovers do not want notice.” He said that to master tea to roast that.’ This selection of the to learn all the details of the compli- processing, one has to get in touch right tea is where more of the quality cated tea world or understand the with as many of these subtle forces as of a fine tea lies.” history, chemistry and all that goes possible—to study history and tradi- Mr. Tsai doesn’t call his tea pro- in to tea. “They just want a tea that tion, learning and honing one’s skill, duction “traditional,” though he they can drink and feel comfortable, as well as modern science, which has doesn’t mind the term. He says that relaxed and bright—a tea that is deli- revealed the workings of many of he thinks his tea is a synthesis of mod- cious, fragrant and healthy.” Added these subtle factors to us. In under- ern and traditional, since tea lovers pressure from advertisements and dis- standing one’s tea, the master can and producers nowadays have a back- honest merchants using stories to sell adapt his processing to suit the tea ground in scientific research that tra- low-quality tea has also left a lot of and bring out its best quality. “A fine ditional farmers didn’t have, and they customers jaded. Mr. Tsai said some- tea should be smooth and delicious therefore understand the chemistry thing akin to what Master Lin always and leave you feeling comfortable. If and soil in ways that are very modern. says: “Without the need for words, you drink a tea and feel uncomfort- He hopes to combine modern under- they drink the tea and find its quality able in any way, that isn’t the tea for standing with traditional skills, in there.” Master Lin’s version is: “The you.” other words. truth is in the cup; tasting is believ- Our Tea of the Month was dried Tea back in the day was made ing.” and roasted by Mr. Tsai quite skill- on very small farms and processed Mr. Tsai went on to discuss the fully indeed. The higher oxidation and in simple rooms that were part of antagonism between lightly oxidized roast bring out a nutty apricot flavor the farmers’ homes. There weren’t tea and natural, more sustainable tea that is divine. They say that each stage any factories or processing facil- production. He said that in order to in the tea processing should enhance ities like today. He says that the make such fragrant, green tea in large the tea without leaving a trace of demand and market have, of course, quantities it is necessary to protect itself, so the roasting should not leave a roasty flavor, in other words. This tea is roasted superbly, with a strong We find a place comfortable due to just a few and bright aftertaste that lingers in factors, like that the weather is pleasant and the the mouth for many minutes after you swallow. We find the energy of surroundings lovely. But trees are tuned into the Nostalgia to be uplifting, gentle and minerals in the soil, microbial life and many other calming, even though it is quite yang. It fills you and carries you upward, subtle influences we can’t even begin to notice. but not forcefully. It is gentle, like a well-mannered lady of the Qing negatively influenced Taiwanese tea the tea leaves from insects, as their Dynasty. She plays you a guqin recital, quality. “Nowadays, a lot of tea makes bites would begin oxidation and comments on the sutras and makes you uncomfortable. Farmers can’t wait make such tea production impossible. you feel humbled by her magnifi- for the right weather to pick or pro- Therefore, higher oxidation and roast cence. cess the tea—not when their customer were traditionally suitable to tea pro- Drinking such amazing oolong is anxiously waiting for their tea. They duction, as there was no way to keep always helps demonstrate the power of have to pick, even if it isn’t ready or insects away completely. It would human and Nature working together if the weather is not conducive to tea require a lot of skill to process a tea in harmony. The powerful terroir of picking. And it takes a lot of skill to well and keep it very fragrant and the highlands of Taiwan combined overcome those kinds of challenges.” lightly oxidized if bugs had bitten the with master craftsmanship results in Mr. Tsai told us that his movement leaves. This means that this lighter-ox- something that transcends the world towards heavier oxidation and roast idized tea industry will never really be of human or Nature. In some ways, came because a lot of his customers, conducive to sustainability. “The mar- this is a metaphor for what it means in China and Taiwan, are Buddhists ket will have to decide if it wants such to be human in this world, and cer- and therefore vegetarian. “They are, fragrant tea or if it wants environmen- tainly for everything great tea is therefore, even more sensitive to teas tally conscious tea,” Mr. Tsai said. about: Heaven, Earth and Human that make you uncomfortable.” A lot Mr. Tsai concluded by telling us working together to co-create tran- of lightly oxidized, green oolongs are that trees are much more sensitive scendence. See if you can taste the more astringent and less desirable to than people. “We find a place com- rocky, high-altitude grace of Nostal- vegetarians. fortable due to just a few factors, like gia, as well as the superb skill of Mr. Along the way, making more oxi- that the weather is pleasant and the Tsai Ming Xun; and then see if, cup dized and roasted tea, he also found surroundings lovely. But trees are by cup, you and your guests don’t that the lighter teas were fragrant, but tuned into the minerals in the soil, start to taste what’s beyond…

11/ Nostalgia (Huai Jiu Zhi Qing, 懷舊之情)

Tea of the Month

Nostalgia Like so many of you, we also sit down with friends to share the Tea of the Month. And though we drank Nostalgia at a different time than you, we are reminded once again of the interconnectedness we share within this global tea community. Just as we set out altar cups in acknowledgment of our tea brothers and sisters the world over, we also drank this tea with all of you in mind, knowing that somewhere under this global thatched roof, you’ll likely be doing the same! And just as you might discuss your experiences drinking this tea with your friends, we did the same:

茶 Like a summer rain, She puzzles me. Slowly, drop by drop, this tea drenches the inside of my mind and tempers my spirit. Her wild travels are, nevertheless, incorporeal. -Jorge Garcia Colmenar, Spain

茶 Lush moist green landscapes, subtle aromas of honey and spring, a perfect nutty roast. This tea challenges my breath and lifts my spirit from the mouth to my upper nostrils, swirling inside the cavities of my head and warming my whole body. A gentle and powerful Qi. I feel it is perfectly balanced. -Mia Maestro, Argentina

茶 When I sipped the second cup, there were hints of cocoa that transported me into the lush Guinea plantations, together with an aftertaste of freshly cut leaves. The fifth cup awakened the roasted and honey tones that I smelled in the dry leaves prior to brewing and relaxed my mind into a gentle, meditative state. -Maria Palacios Felipe, Spain

茶 Perhaps the name “Nostalgia” refers to a time when oolong was traditionally processed, but I’d like to think it refers to the dreamy quality of this tea, drawing us into pleasant memories. This oolong is beautifully balanced, filling the entire mouth with strong flavors of fresh grass and flowers. The long aftertaste lingers between cups, creating a bridge so that the state of being elicited by the tea expands throughout the session. The brew is clear and oily, leaving the mouth salivating. -Qing Yu, USA

茶 From the very first cup, Nostalgia splashed up to my upper palate, centered my mind and gently warmed my body. These sensations unearthed a vision of a log cabin tucked away in the woods. It was a very full and abundant tea, as self-sus- tained as that cabin. It required little, but to sit and let cup after cup come to me. I didn’t need to concentrate on it in order to understand it. -Shen Su, Canada/Taiwan

Check out the video on brewing tips now! www.globalteahut.org/videos

13/ Nostalgia (Huai Jiu Zhi Qing, 懷舊之情) Brewing Tips ecause of the great skill that goes into the production of oolong tea, it has always been more B expensive. In the south of China, a new method of tea brewing developed along with oolong, called “gongfu tea.” Gongfu tea brewing was created by martial artists, and was therefore inspired by much of the same Daoist philosophy that informed those practices. By brewing the tea in small pots, with small cups, these masters simultaneously preserved this valuable tea and cultivated skills and refinement, grace and fluidity in concordance with their worldview. If possible, we would always recommend brewing an oolong like this gongfu: with an Yixing pot, porcelain cups, a tea boat and kettle/stove. If that isn’t possible, you can adapt this tea to any method of brewing or pot/cup/bowls that you have. Don’t feel like you have to brew this tea gongfu or not at all. A general rule for brewing oolong tea is to cover the bottom of the pot like the first, freshly-fallen leaves of autumn: covering the bottom, but you can still see it. This is important because ball- shaped oolong teas really open up a lot, and they therefore need the room to do so. Remember, it is always better to start with too little and add more than to use too much, which wastes tea. Give the tea a longer rinse, so that the balls can open a bit more before pouring. This helps ensure they won’t get bunched up near the spout before they are fully open. The ideal is to get all the balls to open equally and at the same time, which will produce an ethereal third through fifth ! A Basic Introduction to Taiwanese Oolong Tea

We’d like to start with a special thanks to Li Guang Chung, whose research was invaluable in creating this introduction. 烏 Taiwan is truly a tea paradise, full of bountiful tea varieties, tea culture and events, teaware artisans and masters. A Chajin can turn any corner and find another tea lover to share another perspective over a cup or two. The island’s wealth of tea is way beyond the scope of even an extended issue of Global Tea Hut. There is more oolong variety than we can explore, let alone all the other kinds of red and green tea the island offers. If you look 龍 at it, the island itself is shaped like a tea leaf! Our journey through Taiwanese oolong will be geographical. Like all true Zen masters, Tea has always been known by the mountain She comes from, since She is one with Her terroir. A few of the teas shown on the map to the right are varietals/ processing methods—Baozhong, GABA, Eastern Beauty and —but the rest are locations. We will move from the general to the specific, starting with an overview in this article and then moving into the history of Taiwanese tea, changes over time, varietals and then some informative articles on specific oolong regions and farmers. So let flick her magic waters on us and let’s climb up on this black dragon. He’s gentle, and will guide us well... Wen Shan 文山 / Pinglin 坪林 Baozhong (包種) GABA (佳龍) Muzha 木柵 Tieguanyin (鐵觀音)

* 北埔 Eastern Beauty (東方美人) *also found in Miaoli (苗栗)

Taichung 台中 Li Shan (梨山) Da Yu Ling (大禹嶺)

Nantou 南投 Mingjian (名間) Dong Ding (凍頂) Shan Lin Xi (衫林溪) Yu Shan (玉山)

Chiayi 嘉義 Ali Shan (阿里山) Taiwan Oolong

olong is the richest and most leaves from Wuyi mountain like a 1. The trees and the environ- refined of tea chests, filled green tea or an artificially fermented ment/terroir. with so many varieties and (not red!), they would not Okinds of tea that you couldn’t explore be nearly as good as green tea from a 2. The farming methods, viz., them all in a lifetime. It is technically green tea varietal or Liu Bao black tea. organic or not, fertilized or not, defined by the fact that it is semi-ox- Furthermore, they wouldn’t be as nice irrigated or not, etc. idized, but that barely sketches an as the oolong made from the same 3. The processing/drying of the outline of this huge genre of tea— leaves! tea leaves. especially since “semi-oxidized” can And this evolution continues on in mean everything from ten to seventy every tea-growing season, even now. If percent. When you add to that all the you travel to Wuyi, for example, and With puerh tea, for example, the different mountains oolong tea comes watch a true master make oolong tea quality is almost exclusively in the first from, the varietals of trees and varia- each year, you will see a lot of varia- of these—the trees and the environ- tions in processing, you have a huge tion from year to year. The overall ment. When producing a fine oolong, map, spanning Taiwan, Chaozhou methodology used to describe oolong however, all three are equally import- and mostly. We’d truly need the production is as general and rough a ant. It’s not enough to have great tea “black dragon” this tea is named after sketch for what actually happens as in a nice environment, since the com- to fly through the rich heritage, history any basic understanding of an artis- plicated processing will have as much and variety of oolong. But what a jour- tic process is. In any art, the basic to say as Nature. This is true of all tea, ney that would be! formula is always a very abstract and as a manifestation of Heaven, Earth When talking about genres of tea, simplified explanation of what the and Human energies, but none as it is always important to remember practitioner knows much more inti- profoundly as oolong tea. that the popular statement “all tea is mately, subtly and with complex dis- The basic steps that make up all one plant and the differences are in crepancies. Similarly, when a beginner oolong production are harvesting, the processing” can be very mislead- watches a master brew gongfu tea, he withering, de-enzyming, rolling and ing indeed. There is some truth in or she tries to grasp the basic steps roasting. But these steps are a part that statement, but authors who use of pre-warming the cups, showering of almost all tea production. What it rarely qualify it as much as they the pot, steeping the tea, showering really sets oolong apart is the with- should. the pot again, and so forth. But to ering/shaking. Because oolong is a Different processing methodolo- the master, there are great and very semi-oxidized tea, it is withered in a gies were developed locally over time important subtleties that change these very particular way—both indoors and are as much a part of the terroir steps from tea to tea, like the height and outdoors. Oolong is traditionally as the rain, sun or soil composition. from which you pour water into the withered on big, round bamboo trays And these regional variations in pro- pot, for example. that are stacked on shelves, allowing cessing grew alongside certain vari- The master farmers are chang- for airflow underneath. (Though pro- etals of tea. The masters who lived ing the way they make tea each and duction in larger quantities as well as and worked with these leaves were every season. Everything from when more modern, mechanized processing, listening to them, and that conver- they pick—which day and what time means that it is also often withered on sation was often responsible for the of day—to how long they fry the tea large tarps outside on the ground.) As evolution of any given processing to de-enzyme it will change based we discussed earlier, there are infinite methodology. In other words, oolong on the weather and season and how subtle variables in the withering of processing was developed over time the tea looks and feels to them. This fine oolong tea. We have even seen to suit certain varietals of tea because means that their processing must suit a master lick his thumb to feel the that is what brought out their greatest their trees and terroir, and not as some humidity during indoor withering, potential. The farmers mastered their fixed methodology, but rather as a and then ask his sons to bring a can craft by processing the tea the way it changing and adaptable process that, full of charcoal to place in the back “wanted” to be—for lack of a better like any skill, requires them to intuit right corner of the room where he felt word, we use “want” to describe the and then modify their processing to the humidity was too high. nature of the tea. Just as water “wants” suit the current leaves. In that way, During the withering, oolong to flow downhill, these leaves wanted oolong is as much the terroir and trees tea is also shaken. This shaking is the to be oolong. In that way, oolong is as it is the processing methods. most distinctive feature of oolong as much in the varietals of tea as it Oolong tea is the most refined tea processing. It helps to bruise the is in the processing. And that is true and complicated of all tea production, cells and further the oxidation of for most of the other seven genres requiring the greatest skill to make. the tea. When you see a master pick of tea as well (red and black tea can The processing can refine or ruin a up one of the big round trays and be exceptions to this rule, but not tea. Each kind of tea finds its quality dance the leaves around with grace, always). While you could process tea in a ratio between these three things: you may think that it looks easy—

17/ Basic Introduction to Taiwanese Oolong Tea until you try it and toss all the leaves machine-processed tea will be much Taiwan in the late 1970s and became onto the ground (or in your face). more uniform. predominant in the 1980s. And the Like all stages of fine tea, this too After withering/shaking, the sec- shift toward greener oolong also had takes great skill. The best shaking ond most important part of oolong to do with terroir and varietal. will just bruise the cells at the edges processing is the roast. If a farmer As we have discussed in previ- of the leaf, which will be apparent is roasting their tea themselves (as ous issues, the majority of Taiwanese when you brew the tea. When the opposed to selling maocha to a shop), oolong tea is produced from Ching shaking is done masterfully, there is they will usually just roast the tea shin trees, which were brought to a redness only at the edges of the tea, dry—to arrest oxidation and stop Taiwan from Wuyi. They are very all around each leaf. Nowadays, in a the processing—until all the tea is sensitive trees, which get sick easily. world of quantity over quality, most finished that year. They don’t have As Taiwan started to develop infra- stages of tea processing are done with the time to keep up with all the tea structure and prosper in the 1970s, machines. The shaking is done in a coming in, and rarely sleep during tea culture grew in popularity and large machine that turns around on an harvests. After the picking and initial farming started to increase. Marketing axis and tumbles the tea, bruising it, processing of the maocha is done, they moved production into higher alti- but not with the precision that a mas- will then roast the tea slowly and with tudes where Ching shin trees thrive. ter can manage by hand. care, knowing this is one of the most Higher altitude farms receive less Oolong tea is either ball-shaped crucial stages in the production of fine sunlight and the tea leaves therefore or striped, depending on how it is oolong tea. respond well to light oxidation. Again, rolled. The rolling is done to further Traditionally, all oolong tea had the innovations in processing were a break down the cells in the leaf and higher oxidation and roast than what result of changes in terroir. This can’t to shape the tea. Striped tea is rolled you see these days. The range of oxi- be stated enough, especially since so flat across large, ridged bamboo mats. dation that defined the genre of many authors mistakenly promote the Ball-shaped oolong, on the other oolong was much smaller for the first idea that all tea is one plant and that hand, is rolled in twisted-up bags. few hundred years of its development. the differences in kinds of tea are just You can tell a lot about a tea by look- Most old-timers can’t stand the lightly based on the arbitrary decisions made ing at the shape of the balls or stripes. oxidized, greener tea that is popular by farmers who choose to process Hand-processed tea, for example, will these days. Some say that “if it looks their tea as white, red, black, oolong, have a variety of shapes, sizes and like a green tea and smells like a green etc. And if you are reading between twists in the balls or stripes, whereas tea, then, well…” That trend began in the lines, as good teawayfarers,

18 Taiwan Oolong you can perhaps see the more pro- tage that has been developed, refined Lightly oxidized oolong teas, pro- found truth hiding between the rows and passed on that processing wisdom cessed by machine, lack character. of tea trees: there is no tea tree of itself. from generation to generation. They are standardized and too uni- Saying that there is no such thing And so you can understand how form, season to season and cup to as a tea tree of itself seems obvious, traditionalists might not see tea in cup. but necessary to state. We so often such simple categories as “oolong,” forget to connect the dots because especially when the whole indus- Background our rational mind is all about dissec- try has so radically transformed in a tion and analysis, fragmentation and single generation. Generally speak- Taiwan has developed a reputation exploration of conceptually cut-up ing, we find that most tea lovers will for the production of fine oolong such parts. There is no tea tree. Not really. slowly migrate towards deeper, darker as Bai Hao (Eastern Beauty), Dong Tea is an environment. Tea is the and more full-bodied teas over time. Ding, Baozhong and several other soil, the weather, the water, the rocks But that doesn’t mean we don’t enjoy varieties of high-mountain oolong and mountain. Oolong tea is not a a lightly roasted oolong now and tea. Modern business practices and formula in a textbook. (Show me a again. They can be spectacular! But agricultural research have combined farmer who uses a textbook to pro- a nice heavily roasted oolong at the with Taiwan’s ideal humid moun- cess his tea!) Neither is it in the leaves height of winter can change your tain climate to foster one of the most alone. Oolong tea is a certain terroir, day, and maybe even your week. dynamic and influential tea markets one that includes a particular pro- There is a power and breadth to an in the world. This contemporary suc- cessing methodology that suits the oolong that has been crafted in the cess story is built on a firm founda- environment, trees and leaves of that traditional way. It coats the mouth tion, as the island has for centuries place. It is also the culture and heri- and throat and has a lasting huigan. been an important hub for tea and

19/ Basic Introduction to Taiwanese Oolong Tea tea culture, though not without an dred kilometers across the Taiwan striped or ball-shaped. These two dis- environmental price. Its tea culture Strait. This is true of processing and tinctive shapes correspond to the orig- dates to at least the eighteenth cen- of varietals. (The exception to the lat- inal birthplaces of oolong: the north- tury. Even classic Qing Dynasty Chi- ter would be the Three Daughters of ern part of Fujian along the Danshui nese books compliment Taiwanese tea Taiwan: native varietals we will dis- River for the long and thin striped production and mention its centrality cuss in depth later on in the issue.) oolong like Wuyi Cliff Tea, which is to the people’s way of life. According The ancestors of today’s tea masters the very first oolong of all, and the to one such record, there were wild brought their trees from Fujian to southern tight ball-shaped oolong, tea trees in Taiwan as far back as the the highlands of Taiwan, along with which came after the northern striped mid-1600s, though it was not until the skills and knowledge necessary to tea, exemplified by Tieguanyin (Anxi the Yongzheng reign (1723-1735) of produce the fine assortment of oolong Iron Goddess). The northern Fujian the Qing Dynasty that the Taiwanese that has become so famous around striped oolong migrated to the hilly began to harvest and sell the tea from the world. The processing methods regions of the northern half of Taiwan these trees. found in Taiwan today can be divided and the southern ball-shaped oolong However, the tea trees developed roughly between the northern and was brought to the central highlands over the past two hundred years in central regions of Taiwan, correspond- via Muzha in the north. This is a cat- Taiwan are not related to those native ing to the proximate regions of north- egorization based on processing, not wild tea trees memorialized in such ern and southern Fujian. varietals/cultivars, which we will dis- historic records. Most Taiwanese tea As mentioned before, the two cuss later on in the issue. (Most con- is instead descended from the plants main types of oolong in the world sumers are satisfied with understand- and traditions of Fujian province in can be categorized according to the ing the processing and brewing of China’s southeast, just a few hun- shape of their leaves, which are either their teas and rarely explore varietals.)

20 Taiwan Oolong With an understanding of the two categories of oolong based on processing (striped vs. ball-shaped), let’s take a closer look at the types of Taiwanese oolong in those terms:

Northern Danshui River Tea: Baozhong (or Pou Chong) & Bai Hao (Eastern Beauty) Origin: Northern Fujian, Wuyi Cliff Tea Date of Import to Taiwan: 1810 AD (Qing Dynasty, Jiaqing)

The oolong from the northern region of Taiwan is pri- Cliff Tea of Wuyi, Baozhong acts as a bridge between green marily stripe-shaped, consistent with the tea trees and tea like Long Jing or Bi Lou Chun and the versatile world of processing techniques imported from the banks of the oolong. It offers a unique light taste, fresh and green, while Danshui River in the early 18th century. The most famous at the same time presenting the floral fragrances of oolong. of these are Baozhong (Pou Chong) and Bai Hao oolong. Baozhong is named after the packaging it was once wrapped (There is the exception of Taipei’s Muzha Tieguanyin, in, which distinguished it from other Taiwanese tea. which is farmed and processed in a more southern fashion. Another famous Taiwanese striped tea is Bai Hao It is, in fact, where the southern-style tea landed in Taiwan, oolong (Eastern Beauty). Its distinctive flavor is a result of after which it spread to the central highlands.) a natural chemical reactive process, borne of the interaction Taiwan began producing Baozhong as early as 1810 of the tea with its surrounding environment. In the sum- when immigrants from Quanzhou, Fujian cultivated mer, the population of leaf-hoppers (katydids, Jacobiasca tea trees to make flowered tea, like jasmine green tea, for formosana) reaches its peak, and most of the tender tea export. In the early 20th century, the export market col- leaves are eaten by these insects. As a natural self-defense lapsed with the chaos of World War II. Taiwanese tea pro- mechanism, the tea trees begin producing higher concen- ducers shifted their focus to the domestic market, which trations of polyphenols and tannins. These natural chem- demanded finer quality tea. This turned out to be a posi- icals mix with enzymes in the insects’ saliva, causing the tive change, as it forced them to research and develop the tea leaves to begin oxidizing before they are picked, which skills to generate natural floral fragrances from tea without produces a rich, fruity and floral aroma. Bai Hao oolong using actual flowers. Since then, Baozhong has been bred is further distinguished by the fact that it requires three to and processed to emphasize the aroma and complexity four thousand leaf tips to make six hundred grams of tea, of its fragrance, with a flowery fullness as the goal of fine where the same amount of another tea is usually made up Baozhong. Of all the oolong Taiwan produces, Baozhong of about one thousand. It is the most oxidized type of Tai- is the lightest in oxidation (sometimes as low as 5%). Its wanese oolong (70-80%), and is only harvested in Hsinchu elegantly narrow and naturally curved shape reveals its and Miaoli counties during the summer season. Wuyi heritage, but unlike the heavily oxidized and roasted

21/ Basic Introduction to Taiwanese Oolong Tea Central Mountain Area: Dong Ding Oolong & High-Mountain Oolong Origin: Southern Fujian, Tieguanyin Date of Import to Taiwan: Qing Dynasty, Kangxi Period

The processing methods of southern Fujian’sTieguanyin several years without the help of modern innovations like arrived in the central part of Taiwan as early as the Kangxi refrigeration and vacuum- or nitrogen-sealed packaging. reign (1661–1772). Its characteristic round shape comes Today’s more lightly oxidized (30% or lower) and more from a special cloth-wrapped rolling that also imparts a roasted style of Dong Ding oolong was fashioned by and for unique aroma to the tea. The tight shape limits the surface the annual Lugu Tea Competition. The lighter oxidation area of the leaf that is exposed to oxygen, enhancing and allows the judges to more easily inspect the nature of the preserving freshness. This is very important for high-moun- tea leaves. Lighter-oxidized Dong Ding relies on a heavier tain oolong. If it becomes stale, it loses its wonderful flo- roasting to bring out its mellowness and complexity, which ral fragrance. The most influential examples of this tea are is unique to this tea. Recently, many farmers in Dong Ding Lugu’s Dong Ding oolong and high-mountain oolong. have returned to higher oxidation as well. Dong Ding oolong originally referred to oolong har- “Formosa High-Mountain Oolong” is a generic name vested from the three villages of Pin Ding (another name that refers to all oolong tea harvested from plantations for Dong Ding), Yung Long and Feng Huang in Lugu more than 1000 meters in elevation. Such farms origi- , . Since then, it has come to nated in the 1970s in Mei Shan, . Farmers mean oolong from anywhere in Lugu. In the olden days, in Mei Shan originally depended on dragon eye fruit (long when farmers had to walk to the tea farms and carry the yan) and bamboo farming. In the 1960s and ’70s, they harvested tea leaves back on foot, they had to tighten their faced financial hardship when the demand for bamboo and calf muscles as they hiked. In the Taiwanese dialect, “ding” wood decreased. Local governments noticed the achieve- refers to this action. Every day, they climbed up and down ments of the tea industry in neighboring Lugu County the constantly foggy, slippery and cold mountain paths. and decided to help local farmers plant tea trees and learn “Dong” describes these cold and slippery roads. Hence, the the processing skills needed to revitalize their economy. name of the tea, “Dong Ding” alludes to the mountain hik- The higher elevation (Mei Shan: 1100m vs. Lugu: 700m) ing the farmers did in order to bring this tea to market. and humid and foggy climate made the oolong produced Dong Ding oolong has undergone some changes since in Mei Shan an immediate success. Its thick, refined con- the days when the leaves were carried up and down the sistency and rich, refreshing floral aroma quickly won the mountains on farmers’ backs. Traditional Dong Ding hearts of many tea drinkers in Taiwan. Following Mei oolong was oxidized more (~60%) and roasted less than Shan’s success, tea farmers have been continuously trying to those we see today. This is because more oxidized teas develop tea plantations at higher elevations. Nowadays, the have a more consistent quality. When walking was the most famous high-mountain growing regions are Yu Shan only means of transportation, it was vital to process the (1400m), Ali Shan (1600m), Shan Lin Xi (1700m) and tea with higher oxidation, as the leaves would start oxidiz- Li Shan (2500m). Higher elevations have become synon- ing the moment they were picked. Tea farmers and mer- ymous with higher-quality tea produced in more favorable chants could store this higher-oxidized oolong safely for and hopefully organic environments.

22 Taiwan Oolong

Master Lu Li Zhen roasting oolong tea.

Processing of Taiwanese Oolong

From the ethereally fragrant the following basic steps, each with Oxidation is one of the defining Baozhong to the caramel Dong Ding, infinite shades: elements of all tea. In general, people from the intoxicatingly fruity Eastern categorize oolong tea as partially oxi- Beauty to the teas grown at heights of Harvest/picking (cai cha, 採茶) dized during processing. On the oxi- thousands of meters, the Taiwanese Outdoor withering (shai qing, 曬青) dation spectrum, oolong tea tradition- oolong family presents an enchanting Indoor withering (liang qing, 涼青) ally spanned from 30 or 40% to 70%. and unique tea experience for all tea Shaking (yao qing, 搖青) However, nowadays the high-moun- lovers. But its diversity can be at times (Shaking & withering are repeated) tain oolong (for example, the Li Shan, confusing and daunting. Oolong tea Firing (sha qing, 殺青) Shan Lin Xi, or Ali Shan oolong of is an art, requiring the most skill to Rolling (rou nian, 揉捻) Taiwan) may have an oxidation degree make and brew, and should therefore Roasting (hong pei, 烘焙) below thirty percent. Baozhong cer- be appreciated with an artistic mind. (Often repeated) tainly does. When we were discussing this month’s Sorting (fan ji, 分級) Once you enter the oolong world tea with Mr. Tsai, he said that no two through the oxidation window, you oolongs are alike, especially these days To fully understand the diver- immediately face another two import- with a range of oxidation from as low sity of oolong tea, one must under- ant factors: degree of roasting and as five percent all the way up to eighty stand the interplay of three factors age. Roasting and aging the tea can with Eastern Beauty. “There are so that characterize each oolong: degree both be thought of as post-production many steps, and each one so subtle. of oxidation, roasting, and age. Of influences. Though they are different Every time a hand or even machine course, the cultivar of the tea plant in many ways, you can think of them touches a batch of leaves it does so also plays a decisive role in the overall as commensurate, so that aging a tea differently. This influence results in a aroma and taste, which we will discuss throughout the years is like roasting it unique tea.” Oolong is processed in in another article soon. for longer periods.

23/ Basic Introduction to Taiwanese Oolong Tea Roasting of Oolong (hong pei, 烘焙)

Taiwanese oolong tea masters Constant attention is required, as any 1. To lower the tea leaf moisture have inherited the roasting skills so negligence during the lengthy roasting content to about three to four per- essential to Wuyi Cliff Tea and Anxi may ruin the whole batch. cent so that the aroma and taste Tieguanyin. Proper roasting of an A good roasting not only achieves remain consistent over a longer oolong should achieve the following the three goals mentioned above, period of time. goals: (1) stabilize the tea quality; (2) but will also leave the tea free from 2. To remove undesirable smells, correct the aroma and taste; and (3) any sharp or harsh firing or charcoal/ especially any grassiness, usually increase the mellowness and complex- burnt/roasty flavors. Every stage of due to an insufficient kill-green ity. Traditional oolong roasting can be oolong processing should complement (sha qing) process. a very time-consuming and labor-in- and encourage the potential of the tea tensive process, especially for oolong without leaving any trace of itself. The 3. The high temperature during roasting causes complex chemical such as Dong Ding and Tieguanyin. ideal roasting retains the existing flo- reactions among tea leaf com- Roasting was often done by hand ral quality, adds a mature fruity aroma ponents. Two major reactions over hardwood charcoal fire, and the and blends the two in harmony. It are (1) the Mailliard reaction: tea had to be monitored constantly enhances the taste to create a lingering the carbonyl group of the sugars by sight, smell and feel. Even today, and penetrating experience that not reacts with amino acids, and (2) when modern machinery has mostly only entertains the mouth and throat, caramelization: the oxidation of replaced roasting over charcoal fires, but resonates smoothly with the body, certain sugars. Both reactions experience and patience still play vital changing the way the tea enters the result in brown-colored and aro- roles in the success of oolong roasting. subtle body or flow of Qi. In general, matic components, and hence the It is common for oolong such as Dong oolong tea may undergo additional, more amber-colored liquor with Ding to undergo several days of roast- heavier roasting steps, beyond the more complex aroma that comes ing, and Tieguanyin to take weeks. first, for the following reasons: from a more roasted oolong.

24 Taiwan Oolong As a general rule of thumb, the selected and stored by the owner so that forced farmers to improve their roasting degree usually aligns with the that its aroma and taste will develop product; and (3) The people: the oxidation degree. A higher-oxidized over a long period of time, maybe tens hard-working, honest and creative tea oolong can undergo a higher degree of years. producers in Taiwan are always refin- of roasting to develop a robust and Aging an oolong can significantly ing their skills. complex aroma and taste. A lightly improve its mellowness and develop Today Taiwanese oolong has oxidized oolong, on the other hand, is more complexity in the aroma and become one of the hottest tea fash- better with light or even no roasting. flavor. Aging oolong is not like aging ions in the world. Taiwan’s precious Roasting decisions are also largely puerh, where biological activity plays high-mountain oolong has even had a affected by the consumer market’s an important role in the transfor- large impact on conventional oolong preference. Take Tieguanyin, for mation of the tea. Puerh requires a production in mainland China. Still, example: Anxi of Fujian province in certain degree of humidity and air Taiwanese oolong faces a formida- China and Muzha of Taipei city in circulation, but aging oolong, on the ble economic challenge in the global Taiwan are both renowned for their other hand, is best in an environment market. More and more teas that Tieguanyin, but their styles are totally low in humidity and oxygen. This bear the name “Taiwan,” “Formosa,” different. Anxi Tieguanyin has little means that many of us in this com- Dong Ding,” “Bai Hao,” etc., are not to no roasting these days, as the mar- munity, who live in places that are really from Taiwan and only mar- ket has shifted to a floral aroma from less than ideal for puerh aging, can ginally resemble the original quality. the cultivar, which came on the heels of Taiwan high-mountain oolong’s success. On the other hand, the sour- This means that many of us in this community, ness and sweet, pungent aroma of Anxi Tieguanyin hasn’t caught on in who live in places that are less than ideal for puerh Muzha, which still follows traditional aging, can still age oolong. Generally, a more heavy roasting to caramelize and mel- low the aroma into something more robust oolong is selected and placed in a glazed, mature and fruity. earthenware jar. It helps to completely fill the jar so that there is less oxygen inside. Aging

Enjoying aged oolong is an unfa- still age oolong. Generally, a more These forgeries abound in Asia and miliar experience for most tea drink- robust oolong is selected and placed the West, promising tea at cheaper ers. Puerh, we know, generally gets in a glazed earthenware jar. It helps prices but without the quality for better as it ages, but fewer of us know to completely fill the jar so that there which the originals have become that something similar actually hap- is less oxygen inside. The jar is then famous. To overcome this problem, pens to oolong. While lightly oxidized sealed, often with wax, and stored in a Taiwanese tea farmers, producers and oolong tea is generally understood to cool place without sunlight or humid- merchants must continuously strive to be best when drunk fresh, it can also ity. More oxidized or roasted tea is improve and refine the quality of gen- be stored for years and improve with usually drier and therefore ages better. uine Formosa teas and courageously time—even though they are not the introduce them to the world market. ideal candidates for aging. We all We also would like to see Taiwan have limited space to store teas, so it Past to Modern shine as a bright example of organic is often better to choose a more heav- tea farming. As an island, Taiwan is ily oxidized/roasted oolong, such as Since early Chinese settlers protected by the sea, and could very Dong Ding, Bai Hao or Tieguanyin for brought tea plants and their process- well become the first fully-organic tea aging. ing skills to the island, the knowl- region in the world. This would surely We must distinguish between edge of oolong and tea horticulture put Taiwan at the forefront of oolong intentionally aged oolong and oolong has been significantly refined and production again! that has exceeded its shelf life but is improved. A thriving Taiwanese tea still left around. The latter accounts culture has arisen as a result of three for more so-called “aged oolong” on factors: (1) Nature: the perfect grow- the market. If a shop does not sell a ing conditions for tea trees and the tea and tosses it in the back, the con- rich geographic landscape of Tai- ditions for aging will be less than ideal wan itself; (2) Timing: the economic and the resulting tea will be inferior to boom in Taiwan since the ‘70s fueled a well-aged oolong. An aged oolong the domestic market’s demand for is the kind that has been carefully finer teas, creating a competition

25/ Basic Introduction to Taiwanese Oolong Tea 隱

退 How Oolong he old man sipped his tea. dying sun infusing the sky behind rapt, glimmering eyes. Grandpa’s sto- He had never grown weary them in the same sweet amber liquor ries were the highlight of their eve- of that flavor. His father had he’d just finished. nings… Tpicked oolong tea, as had his father’s The village boys were only clean father and grandfather. And his young right after a bath, and even then but “Long, long ago, people here grandsons would also one day pick briefly. The old grandpa didn’t mind picked tea just the way they do now. tea just like his daughter did now. It having them on his lap, though. He And they fried, shaped and fermented all made sense in a comfortable kind loved the boys, as his grandpa had it just the same, too. But they didn’t of way. He was proud to be a farmer once loved him when he came home know how to shake it the way we do. of oolong tea, and took pride in the dirty and ruffled by a day of adven- Oolong tea wasn’t the great treasure it fact that it was the best tea in all the ture. He too had once sat on his is today, and the farmers had a hard Kingdoms. Even the great emperor, grandfather’s bony lap and listened time selling it.” He looked at the chil- Lord of Heaven and Earth, was said to to stories. He smiled now at his own dren in mock-seriousness. “And the prefer the taste of oolong above all else. bony knees. It was a smile of content- children had to work all day instead The old man nodded, agreeing with ment. He was a part of something of playing by the river.” The older his own thoughts. He drained his cup longer and greater than himself. His one moaned and the younger Chang and watched his two grandsons sprint reminiscence of烏 his family’s legacy in gasped in disbelief. “At that time, across the yard towards the house, the tea put him in the mood to share it there was one farmer named Wu Long with the boys. He poured them each Wang (王烏龍). He actually liked a cup of tea and laughed at the awk- hunting much more than picking ward way they held the cups, smell- tea. He was young and loved to day- ing the liquor as he had once taught dream, and rarely brought home his them. He ruffled little Chang’s hair. quota of leaves. And that was why he “Do you know what makes oolong was nicknamed ‘Wu Long’ or ‘Black tea so special?” His bushy white brows Dragon,’ because he always took so flared askance. long to gather his leaves that he was “I do,” said the older Chen, not tanned dark by the sun. His fam- waiting for recognition. “It’s because ily was always complaining. No one of the shaking.” thought any good would ever come of “That’s good, Chen,” he sighed him. He did occasionally redeem him- patiently. He poured them each self, though, by bringing home a good another cup. “Let me tell you about catch to share for dinner. Wu Long the origin of oolong tea.” The boys Wang took his bow with him every- ignored the tea and stared at him with where. He wasn’t any good at pick- Got Its Name

ing tea or farming, but he sure was a breaking the bow over Chen’s head “Clever boy!” He patted Chen’s great shot with that bow. In fact, the and both the boys laughed. “Wu Long head. “And from then on, we have village’s annual archery contest was Wang went to bed with no dinner. He always shaken the tea. The village the only time everyone liked Wu Long was very sad. For two days and nights, elders were so happy with Wu Long Wang. The rest of the year he was a his father refused to speak to him. Wang that they named the new tea just a lazy dolt.” He paused to remind On the third morning, the village “Oolong” after him. He was allowed Chen of the virtues of hard work. elders were all waiting for Wu Long to hunt and daydream for the rest of “One day, Wu Long Wang’s father Wang when he woke up. He thought his days as he pleased. In fact, the vil- told him that he had better bring back he was in big trouble for sure. To his lage elders were so impressed with the a whole basket of tea leaves or he’d great surprise, they all shook his hand, tea that they elected Wu Long Wang break his bow over his head. Wu Long congratulating him and asking him if as a chieftan to sit with them on the Wang worked hard all morning and he had slept well. He looked at them, village council from then on!” He afternoon and filled his basket with confused. looked at the boys and asked, “Do the best leaves he could find. Just as “Wu Long Wang,” they said, “the you know the moral of the story?” he was about to sit down and be lazy, tea you picked two days ago was the “Yes grandpa, I remember,” replied he saw the biggest, plumpest rabbit best tea we have ever had. All of the little Chang. “Daydream a lot, but he’d ever seen. It noticed him and elders in the village have tasted it and don’t forget to jump at the rabbit darted away. Wu Long Wang sprinted agree that it is heavenly. You must when it comes!” after the rabbit, without even thinking show us where you picked it.” Wu of setting down the basket of tea on Long Wang showed them where he’d his back. Half of the leaves flew out found the tea, but they had picked behind him in a trail, but he didn’t that tea before. They asked him to tell stop. He had to have that rabbit.” The them exactly what had happened that old man paused dramatically to let the day.” The old man set Chang on the boys imagine the chase. “Finally, after ground next to his brother and leaned an hour or two, the rabbit grew tired in. “And do you know what they and Wu Long Wang used his bow to found out?” shoot it. He was so proud, he didn’t “I do, I do,” said Chen excitedly. even stop to rest, but skipped merrily “All the running had shaken up the back to the village. He showed his tea leaves and that’s why they tasted so father the rabbit, but his father only good. The tea was sweet and delicious had eyes for the half-empty basket just like yours is!” The children all sat of tea. He grabbed Wu Long Wang’s beaming up at Grandpa like tea lovers bow and—” the old man mimicked waiting for the best steeping.

龍28 Taiwan Oolong

台 Varietals of 灣 Taiwanese Oolong 烏 茶人: 龍 Wu De

茶 Deepening our understanding of the cultivars and varietals of Taiwanese oolong helps us on our journey through Tai- 的 wan. Remember, the environment, the trees and the process- ing skill of the producer define the quality of an oolong tea. 品 Different varietals relate to certain environments better, have unique characteristics and need to be processed accordingly. 種 No journey through Taiwan’s rich oolong heritage would be complete without a discussion of the kinds of trees themselves.

n 1644, the Manchus once again come in from the seas fill the valleys Like many plants, every tea seed conquered China, beginning the and highlands with the moisture that is unique, allowing it to rapidly Qing Dynasty. Around that time, tea loves. The humidity, temperature, evolve to new environs. And with- Ihuge waves of immigrants moved to rainfall, mists and clouds as well as out any of the grafting technology Taiwan to start new lives, often run- the gravelly soil are all ideal for tea used in plantation agriculture today, ning from the economic/political growth—so much so that you have all the traditional teas were what we problems resulting from such dynas- to wonder if the Fujianese found that call “living tea,” which, as many of tic change. Most of these immigrants out after they brought tea, or if they you will remember, means that they came to Taiwan from Fujian, one brought tea after they realized how were seed-propagated, allowed room of the brightest leaves on the great suitable the island would be for its to grow, lived in biodiversity, grown tree of , for Fujian is the cultivation. Of course, the destiny of without agrochemicals, not irrigated birthplace of oolong tea, as well as the tea trees was also rewritten by the and were cultivated with respect. The many other kinds of famous tea. Even journey across the strait… early farmers quickly realized that today, it is a certain stop on any tea One of the ancient names for tea when you moved tea to a new loca- lover’s tour of tea mountains, includ- is “Immovable.” All the earliest tea tion, it changed completely to suit ing Wuyi Mountain, where Cliff Tea sages had to find wild tea trees, gath- its new home. As such, you could say (Yan Cha) is grown, Anxi, birthplace ering leaves like any other sacred that tea becomes its environment, as of Iron Goddess (Tieguanyin), and Fu herb. It took a long time for tea to be the surroundings become the tea. Ding, where comes from… domesticated. For many thousands of As a sacred herb, tea has always It should come as no surprise, then, years, tea trees were of the forest—a decorated Chinese relationships, from that the settlers from such a tea land medicine that the shamans and Dao- business deals to spiritual transmis- would bring tea with them, hoping to ist mendicants sought out for its spir- sions, offerings to the gods and even plant it on the magical island they saw itual effects. Eventually, though, tea weddings. Even today, the Chinese shimmering above the mist, rising out was domesticated, and then carried wedding ceremony is centered around of the ocean like the great turtle their further by people than it could have tea: the bride makes tea for the beloved Guanyin rides through the spread on its own. Soon enough, tea groom, and his acceptance of the tea Heavenly waters. was propagated on many mountains into his body is an acceptance of his The tea that those early settlers in China, and new varietals started to new wife. One of the other aspects of brought thrived in Taiwan, especially evolve, with amazing new characteris- why tea was used in such relationships in the mountains. The soil is rich in tics, flavors, aromas and Qi. This rich is precisely that they also hoped these volcanic minerals and the mists that diversity continues to unfold today. commitments would be “Immovable.”

29 超 越 Taiwan Oolong

It should therefore come as no etals evolved to new environments, on research into new varietals of tea surprise that the tea trees planted in influenced by the unique terroir there, that would be suited to different ter- Taiwan quickly developed unique per- the farmers also evolved their pro- roirs around the island. They hoped sonalities due to the terroir here. It’s cessing—testing and experimenting, to optimize desirable flavors, aromas amazing how quickly this happens, “listening” to the results as they drank and other characteristics in Taiwanese especially when skilled craftsmen each year’s tea, and slowly changing oolongs and also promote a greater are involved. Not only do the trees their methods to bring out the best in resistance to pests, foreboding the det- evolve into new varietals naturally, but the tea. In fact, bringing out the best rimental effects pesticides could have farmers begin to create new hybrids, qualities of that varietal is what we on sustainable agriculture. They also researching the differences in search of mean by processing the tea the way it brought large-leaf seeds from Assam wonderful new teas. They also adapt “wants” to be processed. You could say to central Taiwan, creating the planta- their processing methodologies over the same about brewing any particular tions near Sun Moon Lake that were time, listening to how the leaves want tea. later abandoned, after the Japanese to be dried. Great skill (gongfu) is With the help of the Portuguese, left, and have recently been tended always a listening to the medium. In Dutch, and later the Japanese, Tai- again to produce marvelous, wild red tea brewing, for example, we try to wanese tea production would gain tea. brew the tea as it wants to be brewed. international repute. From 1895 to There is magic in the way tea trees Similarly, master tea makers adapt 1945, Taiwan was under Japanese have changed over time, evolving into their processing to suit the leaves, rule. At that time, the Japanese sought new varietals based on their terroir. the season, the rainfall, etc. Saying to increase all agricultural production When you see just how much vari- that they processed the tea the way it island-wide and took a great interest ety there is in the tea world, you can’t “wanted” to be processed is perhaps in Taiwanese tea. With the help of help but feel some awe, as well as a misleading, but English lacks the local farmers, they formed the Taiwan sense of great excitement and adven- proper sentiment. More literally, what Oolong Tea Research and Develop- ture, for there is so much to learn, so we mean by this is that as new vari- ment Station in 1926. They focused many teas to taste and so many cups

31/ Varietals of Taiwanese Oolong 品 Varietalhe terms “varietal” andvs. “cultivar” Cultivar are used often in dis- T cussions of tea trees. “Varietal” is a more general term 種 referring to any difference below the level of species, whereas “cultivar” refers to a man-made varietal. So a cultivar is a kind of varietal, in other words. Sometimes, in the West, any herb in hot water is referred to as “tea.” However, tea lovers 栽 like us will call an herbal brew “tisane,” and leave “tea” to tea, which is a group of camellia trees. Botanically, all camellias are in the family Theaceae 培 (which comes from the Greek “Thea,” or “Goddess”), along with other species like stewartia. Within that family of plants is the genus Camellia, which is then subdivided into groups, 品 one of which is “Thea,” which refers to all camellia leaves used for tea (or Goddess worshp, in other words). There are a couple dozen species in the group “Thea,” including Camellia 種 sinensis, irrawadiensis, taliensis, and some others. All of the “Thea” species of camellia are considered to be tea. A varietal or cultivar is a subdivision of any one of those species, with the vast majority of varietals/cultivars found in the species . Obviously, the world of tea trees is vast, and much more complicated than you’d think. There are more varietals in Yunnan, the birthplace of all tea, than the rest of the world combined. And many of those vari- etals are not cultivars, but created by Nature.

* Left is Kingfisher Jade (Tsui Yu, 翠玉).

to share! Some of the famous varietals tea here, and also about the amazing hybrids which were researched and of tea are wild mutations, created by variety of energy and healing available developed specifically in Taiwan. As the energies of Nature and Earth, through tea. we discussed earlier in this issue, when while others are the genius of gen- Many of you will recall that there we explored the Tea of the Month and erations of farmers and masters who are two broad categories of tea trees, in the introduction, the traditional, devoted their lives to the Leaf. And big leaf and small leaf. Big leaf tea classical varietals were brought over looking back at the many millennia of trees are the original tea, born in Yun- with immigrants during the Qing culture, heritage and spirit that have nan. They have a single trunk, with Dynasty. The native hybrids, on the gone into tea, a Chajin (tea person) roots that grow deeper and more other hand, are the result of decades can’t help but be overwhelmed with downwards. As tea traveled north of research that began when the Jap- gratitude. and east, whether propagated natu- anese controlled Taiwan from the end When it comes to Taiwanese vari- rally or carried by man, it evolved to of the 19th century up until WWII. etals, there is a lot of misinformation suit the colder climes. Small leaf tea The work the Japanese initiated, with and debate about details. Much of is more of a bush, with several trunks the help of local farmers, continued what a farmer understands about the and, of course, smaller leaves. In fact, after they left and resulted in the cre- fine details of tea genetics, hybrids the further north you go, the smaller ation of the Three Daughters of Tai- and varietals is uninteresting to us. the leaves—until you get to Japan, wan in the 1970s, all of which have Still, a basic understanding of the where the leaves are so small they are contributed greatly to the success and main varietals of oolong that have like needles when they are dried and fame of Taiwanese oolong. There are made Taiwan famous is worthwhile, rolled. And all oolong tea is consid- also many, many other cultivars that especially the “Three Daughters,” ered small leaf tea. we won’t have time to cover, as they as they are called. In exploring the Oolong tea in Taiwan can be are not used often or are used to make amazing variety of tea that have made broadly divided into two main catego- red tea, for example. In order to better Taiwan famous, we can learn about ries: the traditional varietals that were understand and appreciate Taiwanese the heritage, culture and history of brought from the mainland and the tea, let’s explore some varietals.

32 Taiwan Oolong Traditional Oolong Varietals:

Gentle Heart (Ching shin, 清心)

At the start of the Qing Dynasty, article, Ching shin is farmers transplanted several varietals closer genetically to to Taiwan, mostly bringing them Four Seasons Spring from Wuyi. All the varietals that (Si ji chun, 四季春). they brought were lesser-known and It also produces the undervalued teas. The famous vari- best and highest quality etals, like the Four Famous Teas of Taiwanese high-moun- Wuyi, were protected and weren’t tain oolong teas. With the allowed to travel. Even within Wuyi, right terroir and processing, it isn’t easy to get cuttings of first, or a Ching shin oolong can shine even second-generation , brightly, indeed. for example. Several of these varietals In order to distinguish these four were later abandoned, found to be teas, you have to look at the leaves, unsuitable to Taiwan’s unique terroir, their shape, and most especially the while others still thrive here—in new veins. All tea leaves have a central and bright forms only found on this vein that travels from the stem to the island. tip, but it’s the branching veins that In Beipu and Miaoli, where East- help determine the varietal. Ching ern Beauty comes from, they have shin and Si ji chun both have branch- Huang gan (黃柑) and Ching shin da ing veins that join the central vein at mo (青心大冇), the latter of which angles from 30 to 60 degrees, while can also make a nice green tea. In Jing shuan (金萱) and Tsui yu (翠玉) Pinglin, and to a lesser extent in display veins that come out at an 80- Beipu and central Taiwan, there is to 90-degree angle (almost straight). also the Wuyi tea varietal (sometimes You can then separate the pairs by called “Da ye (大葉),” which means looking at the shape because Tsui yu “big leaf,” though that’s confusing and Ching shin are longer and thin- because it isn’t a big-leaf tea tree; it ner shaped, while Jing shuan and Si merely has larger leaves than other ji chun are rounder. We’ll highlight varietals in Taiwan). There is also the these characteristics again as we dis- legendary Tieguanyin varietal (鐵觀 cuss each varietal individually. 音品種), brought from Anxi, Fujian Ching shin tea has a dark green and cultivated primarily in Taiwan’s hue when viewing the bushes in a Muzha region. The most famous of row, though color is never a clear the tea varietals that were brought determiner—not without analyz- here from the mainland long ago, ing the leaves. The foliage is also not however, is Ching shin oolong, which as dense or vibrant as Tsui yu or Jing means “Gentle Heart.” shuan cultivars. Some say Gentle Heart oolong Ching shin tea is often produced is named after the tenderness of the as lightly oxidized oolong nowa- fresh leaves, while others suggest that days. It has a refreshing flavor with the name refers to the fact that this a light liquor that tastes of flowers, kind of tea tree is sensitive. Ching green leafy vegetables or orchids. The shin doesn’t do well at lower altitudes, light greenish-yellow to yellow liquor since the trees can get sick easily, hav- is clear and thin, with some bitter ing delicate constitutions. Ching shin astringency at the front, and a lasting is by volume the largest percentage huigan (a sensation of cool, mintiness of Taiwanese high-mountain oolong, on the breath) when it is processed thriving at high altitudes where the properly. The Qi is light and uplift- air is fresh, clean and cool. This makes ing, cooling and breezy. Ching shin unique. Of the four tea varietals we are going to discuss in this

33/ Varietals of Taiwanese Oolong 清

心

Taiwanese Tea Tree Varietals Baozhong: Ching shin (清心) Eastern Beauty: Ching shin da mao (青心大冇) Dong Ding: traditionally Ching shin da mo (青心大冇), but nowadays can be Ching shin (清心) High-mountain oolong: Ching shin (清心) Muzha: Tieguanyin varietal (鐵觀音品種)

Throughout Much of Taiwan Three Daughters: Jing shuan (金萱), Tsui yu (翠玉) & Si ji Chun (四季春) Others: Huang gan (黃柑) and Da ye (大葉) Taiwan Oolong The Three Daughters:

Golden Lily (Jing shuan, 金萱)

Jing shuan oolong is a hybrid that was established in the 1970s. Its Taiwanese number is TW #12, though farmers often refer to it as “2027” or just “27.” These numbers refer to the process the Taiwan Oolong Tea Research and Develop- ment Station used to classify the teas as they were developing and testing them. As mentioned above, the leaves of Jing shuan are rounder while the branching veins come off the central vein at an almost right angle (80 to 90 degrees). From a dis- tance, the bushes have a yellowish-green hue, which may also help distinguish this cultivar. Jing shuan tea is primarily grown on Mt. Zhu in central Taiwan. It doesn’t thrive in the extreme cold of very high altitude gardens or plantations like Ching shin, but isn’t as suscep- tible to cold as Tsui yu. When it is healthy, Jing shuan has more vibrant foliage than other varietals. Jing shuan is one of the easiest of the four teas to distin- guish. The dry leaves have a golden, yellowish-green hue, as does the liquor. Jing shuan is famous for its milky texture and fragrance—often referred to as “Milk Oolong.” There is misinformation in the tea world that this name is due to the use of milk as fertilizer, but the name actually comes from the tea liquor itself: Jing shuan is thick and creamy, and if the terroir is right, with more sun, and the pro- cessing has been done well, it has a definite milky aroma which is very pleasing. Its fame has resulted in fake “Milk Oolongs” produced in mainland China that are sprayed with artificial milk flavors post production, giving them a strong and unnatural fragrance of milk. (Yuck!) Real Jing shuan has only a subtle hint of a milky fragrance in the aftertaste. The thick, oily liquor coats the throat. It has a deep and lasting Qi that resonates inwards. 金

萱

35/ Varietals of Taiwanese Oolong Kingfisher Jade (Tsui yu, 翠玉)

Tsui yu oolong is also a hybrid that came to life in the 1970s, after decades of research. In the Taiwanese index, it is TW #13, though farmers often refer to it as “2029” or just “29.” Like Jing shuan, the leaves of Tsui yu have veins at 80- to 90-degree angles, though they are long and arrowhead-shaped. When you stand back from a field of Tsui yu, the leaves have a bluish-green (kingfisher) tint to them and they are more vibrant, with lusher foliage than all the other four varietals we will discuss here. Tsui yu dislikes cold weather, so it can’t be grown at very high altitudes. It is predominantly grown on Mt. Zhu and in the lowlands around Ming Jian. Tsui yu has a flavor of seaweed, lima beans and often fruit. It is more famous for an aroma of wildflowers and an aftertaste of fresh fruit. Some say it tastes of lotus or lilac; others say cassia or peach. Much of this depends on the terroir, the season and the skill of the producer. The Qi is yin. It centers you in the heart. 翠 玉

Four Seasons Spring (Si ji chun, 四季春)

Though you could perhaps call Si ji chun a hybrid, it is a natural, wild varietal that arose in Muzha. Since it is a more natural varietal, it is heartier than the others. This is a testament to one of the principles we always promote in these pages when discussing what we call “living tea,” which is that the leaves produced by man will never compare to Nature’s. It’s possible to further distinguish man-made teas by calling them “cultivars.” These trees yield buds at least four times a year, which is where its name comes from. “Si ji chun” might also be translated as “Four Seasons like Spring,” referring to the fact that this bush can produce as much in other seasons as in spring. It is also thought to be the youngest of the Three Daughters, coming into commercial production in the 1980s. Si ji chun does not have a Taiwan classification number, since it evolved naturally. Of the four teas here, Si ji chun is more closely related to Ching shin than it is to Jing shuan or Tsui yu. The leaves of Si ji chun are round in shape with veins that shoot off at 30- to 60-degree angles. The leaves have a light green hue, with less foliage like Ching shin. The buds ofSi ji chun are often a gorgeous reddish hue when they emerge, which is a common mutation for many varietals of tea around the world. As some of you will remember from June of 2013 when we sent out this fabulous tea, Si ji chun has an exuberant, golden liquor that blossoms in a fresh, musky floweriness. It is tangy with a slightly sour aftertaste, like the Tieguanyin varietal it evolved from. Many Tai- wanese compare the aroma to gardenias. Of these four teas, it has the most distin- guishable flavor. The Qi is cleansing, pushing outward from the center. It rises up in gusts, and leaves you feeling refreshed. 四 季 春 Gongfu Experiments Outside the Boundaries Understanding Environment in a Cup

茶人: Sam Gibb

Refining our usual gongfu practice through understanding heat, brew- ing methods and teaware is great, but it is also nice to foray into the more subtle realms, like exploring sound/music’s relationship to the cup as we did last month. Sam decided to continue that exploration, testing the role the environment plays in brewing the same tea: outdoors and in, here and there. 平

e often say bowl tea is practice are movements towards com- itself. In recent issues, Shen Su has about returning tea to its plete peace and clarity within the been writing a number of articles on essence: leaves, heat and world of flow. chaxi (the tea stage). As you may have water.W One thing I love (and at the In the gongfu tea experiments, read, the tea stage is much more than same time find incredibly frustrating) we often stick to seemingly gross ele- what is happening on the tea table or about Zen and Tea both is that there ments: encouraging people to try the runner you choose to put down. If is another, outwardly contradicting different brewing vessels, ways of you go to see a live play, the perfor- side: the sensitivity to the physical. boiling water or brewing methods. mance is more than what is apparent. Gongfu tea is about distinction, as all These are the basics for us to begin Of course, we notice the actors, the improvement is a movement from the experimenting with. These are the costumes, the music and dialogue. gross to the subtle. If we’re too lost in building blocks on which our gongfu But where does the stage end? Is the the essence, we miss the world and our tea practice is built. The basics need audience not part of the show, too? chance to work with it. We create space to be strong and re-enforced if our What about the environment where with bowl tea, and then fill it with building is to last and continue to the play takes place? Maybe you go to gongfu tea. These two practices dance grow. “Advanced techniques are basic see a play in Shakespeare’s Globe The- together—seemingly contradictory, techniques mastered,” as Wu De often atre and then see the same show at the but actually in perfect companionship says. We must continue to retry our Margravial Opera House in Germany. that results in the growth of both. experiments from new levels of mas- Or how about the Minack Theatre in The essence of Cha Dao extends tery and sensitivity, ever and always Cornwall, which was built into a cliff far beyond the water, leaves, teaware honing our gongfu, our skill. But that face overlooking the sea? Several tons or the brewing method (gongfu or doesn’t mean we can’t step out of the of rock from the beach below were bowl tea). At a fundamental level, ordinary boundaries once in a while. hand-carried up the cliff by a retired Cha Dao is about seeing everything as This month’s experiment is one woman and her gardener! Would serving tea. This is a stage we have to such foray into the even more subtle, these not be different plays/experi- spend our lives working towards, and allowing us to dig a little deeper into ences? If so, how? A place has a magic yet can only be achieved in the pres- ourselves and our practice, asking all its own from the love and skill that ent, right now. Another way to frame the very open question: “What is the went into its creation and decoration. this would be to say that this moment impact of location on gongfu tea?” We The same should be true for our chaxi. is the only opportunity we have to wanted to explore the effect the place The location in which we sit may be view our life as service. So, as we often had on the tea, mouth sensations, the as much a part of our experience as hear, both spiritual work and our tea subtle body and the overall session the pot.

38 Gongfu Experiments

Stillness helps us become more walk in and out of the space, doing indoors or out, time of day, etc. Also, aware of what is happening around us other things like making a snack or please share your findings with the and simultaneously inside of us. We doing dishes! And third, I set up out- community on our website or through have all experienced this. If you have side in the garden next door where we social media. This way, we can all been on a silent meditation retreat grow our food. develop a deeper understanding of or even just woken up early enough, I brewed gongfu tea in each place, what harmony with our environment you know that physical stillness offers using the same three grams of a lightly truly means, learning from not only deeper connection to our lives. oxidized oolong. I noted my general our own experience but from our I started with three different loca- and specific impressions throughout community’s as well! tions and drank the same tea, gongfu, the session, both emotional and men- at the same time of the day. I consid- tal—mouth sensations, the movement ered mouth sensations as usual, see- of Qi within my body and anything ing if they changed in the different else I noticed. locations. The first was at the main This would be a great experiment tea table at the Center, which is sur- to do with others. You can discuss the rounded by tea and is only used for differences in being a host and guest . Second, I decided to in each location. There are so many All and everything in a cup compare the kitchen table. While we variations you can try and elements of tea. How does the world do drink a lot of tea there, it is not with which to experiment. Start with change the tea? And the tea exclusively used for this. People often focusing on gross differences such as change the world?

39/ Outside the Boundaries

茶 改 世 變 界 沒 世 改 有 界 變 改 茶 變 的

40 Some Historical Perspective on Taiwanese Oolong t helps to have a historical context In the following section, we are traveling onwards. While knowing for Taiwanese oolong in order to going to explore the history of Tai- the basic stages in oolong production understand how it got to where it is wanese oolong from a linear orienta- is great, we must remember that the Itoday. The changes in production have tion, focusing on the facts, the mar- master farmer is working on much been at least partially market-driven. ket, the people and events that are more subtle levels than these basic The art and spirit of tea production is known to have shaped the direction steps. When we first start brewing tea, something that is more difficult to find of Taiwanese oolong, as well as the we learn to put some tea in a pot and the ink for, and better left in the experi- changes in production methodology steep it for so long, but those gener- ence of drinking a magical oolong like over time. Again, we like a balanced, alities quickly vanish as we move to our Tea of the Month. We have tried to rounded approach to understanding subtler and subtler distinctions as our express as much of the poetry, mythol- tea. A good example of healthy and skill and sensitivity increase—what ogy, folklore and spirit of oolong tea whole comprehension is how Ruan kind of clay, what size and shape of as we can. This should be balanced, Yi Ming presents us with a very dry pot, which water, which fire, and so however, with some linear science and and factual account of how Eastern on. In the same way, each of these historical facts to ground our under- Beauty came about in the follow- basic steps is full of infinite subtleties standing of Taiwanese oolong, leaving ing section, while later in this issue to the oolong master. us with a deeper and more holistic (in the next section,烏 called “Organic So far, we’ve learned how to cat- comprehension of this magical tea. Farmers of the North”) we will read egorize Taiwanse tea by processing the legendary, poetic story of East- method, which most basically is ern Beauty’s creation. Neither is more divided into the shape of the dried tea true or deeper. A tea lover is a lover, leaf: striped or ball-shaped. Then we and a lover strives to know his or learned the main varietals of tea trees her beloved on every level: intellec- in Taiwan and which type of tea they tual, historical, spiritual and creative were traditionally used to make, like through the art of tea. Ching shin for high-mountain oolong It is important to start this tour and Baozhong, and Ching shin da mo through the history of Taiwanese for Eastern Beauty and Dong Ding. oolong with a basic understanding In the next article, Master He Jian of early oolong production, which, gives us a clear, brief and very elegant as we’ve mentioned, followed the summary of each kind of Taiwan- same steps for centuries. There were ese oolong, as well as how they have of course different production meth- lost some of the traditional art and ods to suit different varietals, but the craftsmanship over the years. In the general steps in traditional oolong following article, Ruan Yi Ming dives production continue today. This deeper into the processing of Taiwan- basic formula for traditional oolong ese oolong through historical records production is worth studying and and experience. learning, as it will form the basis for Before moving on to a historical a deeper understanding of all types of survey of oolong tea in Taiwan, we oolong production. We covered the thought that you’d like some advice basic steps in the introductory article. about aged and aging Taiwanese They are summarized on pg. 23 of this oolong. It is a question we get asked issue. You should learn them before about a lot. Aged & Aging Taiwanese Oolong

he tradition of aging oolong is why oolong traditionally didn’t Because oolong doesn’t require is as old as oolong Herself. As require vacuum sealing, or all that moisture or oxygen to store, like T with other types of tea, oolong extra machinery and wasted packag- puerh does, you can age oolong any- was quickly recognized to improve with ing. A stable roast meant the tea could where. Puerh really is best stored in age. Cliff Tea was traditionally aged for be wrapped in simple paper and pre- humid environments, especially if a while before it was sold, and other served that way indefinitely. Although you plan to age it for longer periods areas of China have also intentionally a solid final roast and good storage are of time, but oolong will happily trans- aged oolong over the years. Today, enough to keep the tea aging well for form wherever you live. Simply fill a aged oolongs are increasingly revered many years, many tea masters also like jar to the brim, which reduces oxy- in Taiwan, where you can find oolongs to re-roast the tea to keep the mois- gen in the container, and seal it with more than 100 years old on occasion ture content low during aging. Some wax. You’ll want to put a string in the and more than a few decades old with do this several times a year, or every wax so it will be easy to open. If you relative frequency. Here, some oolong five years or at other intervals, and it’s want to check on it more regularly, teas are marketed as “aged” after as common to light up the charcoal fire you can forgo the wax, but remember few as six years, but most tea connois- pit or switch on the electric roaster that every time you open the lid you seurs consider an oolong to be truly upon discovery of an accidentally aged are exposing it to unwanted air and aged once it’s 20-30 years old. Unless tea. However, we belong to another moisture—disturbing the tea’s medita- they’re stored in poor conditions, most school of oolong aging when it comes tion. It is best to leave the tea alone, oolongs will become incredible if you to roasting. More specifically, we don’t disrupting it as little as possible. simply wait long enough to drink re-roast our oolongs at all. We find Resist the urge to check on it, open it them. that it makes aged oolongs taste more or shake it to smell the leaves inside. All other factors being equal, like roast than aged tea, and that the Every movement will change the way more oxidized, darker-roast oolongs tea doesn’t respond well to the incon- it tastes years later. The more hermetic have an advantage over the greener sistencies of roasts (which are often the seal is for the entire duration of its oolongs when it comes to aging. One done by different people using dif- storage, the better the tea will be in of the key differences is moisture con- ferent roasting techniques over the the end. tent. Traditional oolongs only have years). A fine aged oolong often has a about two percent moisture content The instability of oolong teas that clear surface and a color like amber, in the leaves (compared to five per- are not roasted enough is why many notes of prune and Chinese medic- cent or more in greener, less roasted people say that they are not ageable. inal herbs in the flavor and aroma, leaves), so they change and ferment Since they are unstable, their flavor, and a balancing, powerful Qi. It feels more gradually and predictably. They aroma and Qi will fluctuate drastically silky in the mouth and smooth in the are less likely to crumble into dust over the first ten or even twenty years throat. It has huigan (a minty-cooling before their time or require excessive of aging, often passing through awk- sensation in the mouth and throat re-roasting to keep them from going ward phases. Eventually, Time stabi- after swallowing) and a sweetness that all musty and moldy. lizes all things, including awkward tea lingers almost as if it is being exuded In order to have low enough mois- (and teenagers), but for some time the from the throat. You’ll know when ture content for stable aging, oolong tea will not be as nice as it was when you’re brewing it well because the tea needs a longer “final roast” during fresh, nor as nice as a well-aged tea. leaves will begin to murmur to you of its initial processing. This is a natural This is actually true of all green teas, their past, present and future, speak- part of traditional oolong process- certain puerh and other teas that you ing kindly of their many years spent ing in Taiwan and it is still practiced would not ordinarily think of as good circling the sun, all the while whisper- in some parts of China, too. This candidates for aging. ing hints of the illusion of Time...

龍42 Taiwan Oolong of 尋 The Lost Art 味 Oolong 失 An Interview With He Jian (何健), Owner of the Yeh Tang 落 Tea Culture Research Institute 的 茶人: Yan Jie (顏婕) Donated By Wushing 傳

統 He Jian is one of the most influential Chajin (tea people) in Taiwan. He has been promoting tea culture for more than 烏 thirty years. He is one of the world’s leading experts on Yixing 龍 . His humble demeanor and love for kindness have made him a very important teacher to us. His perspective on Taiwanese teas is invaluable and we are honored to intro- duce him to our tea community.

magine yourself savoring a cup of flavor, in pursuit of a fragrant curl of Nangang style, each very different aged Wen Shan Baozhong tea from steam that wafted, dreamlike, through from the other. 1979. The tea leaves have witnessed history. Of the two tea growers, Wang Ithe passage of more than thirty years to Shuijin represented the Wen Shan bring you this sweet, mellow tea liquor Baozhong tea-making method, using with its warm, clean fragrance. As you Wen Shan Baozhong a technique borrowed from Wuyi tea breathe in, your nostrils are filled with (Pou Chong) 文山包 that involves twisting the tea leaves. the scent of tea, soothing away life’s With the existing Wuyi method as stresses and anxieties. Our search for Wen Shan is situated in the south- a starting point, he developed a pro- this traditional Taiwanese oolong fla- ern and south-eastern regions of the cess with a more thorough oxidation vor brought us to the Yeh Tang Tea Taipei Basin and was Taiwan’s ear- and roast, resulting in a stronger fra- Culture Research Institute on Taipei’s liest tea-growing area, with tea first grance and a deeper, reddish-colored Yongkang Street, where we listened being cultivated there in 1810. Wen liquor. Because of its distinctive flavor, attentively over the to vet- Shan Baozhong tea originated in Tai- some people are still quite enamored eran tea master He Jian as he tirelessly pei’s Nangang district in the late 19th of this stronger-scented, Wen Shan- recounted the stories behind Taiwan’s century. Its founding fathers were style Baozhong tea. Wei Jingshi, on traditional oolong tea varieties: Wen two natives of Anxi County in Fujian the other hand, modified the Wuyi Shan Baozhong, Muzha Tieguanyin, Province, Wang Shuijin (王水錦) tea-making method used for the Wen Dong Ding oolong, and Eastern Beauty. and Wei Jingshi (魏靜時) who immi- Shan style, changing the whole pro- His passion was contagious, and we grated to Taiwan. They established a cess right from the withering stage to fell in love with tea again. Master He’s tea plantation on a hillside of Neihu produce a more lightly oxidized tea tea and stories did more than inform Village in the Qixing region (near the with a greener liquor and a lighter, us; they left us inspired. Through his old Nangang Village), and started to sweeter fragrance. This was the Nan- words, we were carried along on a produce tea. From that point on, two gang style of Baozhong tea—the pre- journey through time, following the distinct styles of Baozhong tea gradu- decessor of the Wen Shan Baozhong rise and fall of that traditional oolong ally developed: Wen Shan style and tea that is commonly seen today.

43 寶

臧 Taiwan Oolong The term “red water” (referring to the color of the liquor) that dates back to the period of Japanese occu- pation was in fact used to distinguish the Wen Shan style from the Nan- gang style of processing. In 1921, the Baozhong Tea Institute was estab- lished in Nangang to promote tea production and pass on knowledge of tea-growing and manufacturing techniques to the local tea farmers. At that time, the bulk of the tea leaves were exported, together with those produced in the neighboring areas of Pinglin, San Xia, and Da Dao Cheng, with whom Nangang enjoyed close and mutually beneficial business ties. Later on, due to several factors such as mining and urban development, tea production in the mountains of Nangang slowly began to decline. The center of Nangang Baozhong tea production gradually began to shift toward Pinglin, where the envi- ronment was more favorable. From 1975 onward, the tea market gradu- ally became geared toward domestic consumption, and these two villages Eastern Beauty after heavy oxidation. that had sprung up because of the tea industry—Nangang and Da Dao Cheng—slowly went into decline. Baozhong tea has a light, elegant flavor and a distinct fragrance, and is well-regarded in the market. Fur- the favorable soil quality and climate, ist attraction, many businesses sprung thermore, the price of Baozhong tea is the area of the plantation expanded up in the area, and the influx of labor completely determined by the quality rapidly and Muzha became a Tieguan- and resources changed the face of the of the tea itself. The difference is obvi- yin-growing region. The main fea- local industry, causing the tea indus- ous, unlike tea leaves from most tea tures of the manufacturing process try to decline. The main internal fac- regions where the price is relatively included using leaves from the origi- tor, on the other hand, was that as uniform and there’s no way to dis- nal Tieguanyin bush varietal, followed farmland was passed down through tinguish the quality. In my opinion, by relatively heavy oxidation, repeated generations of tea growers, it was Baozhong tea’s distinctive flavor makes cloth-rolling, and hand-roasting. continually redistributed and divided it the most classic example of Taiwan- This created a unique flavor with a into smaller and smaller sections, dra- ese tea, and one of the best teas to rich, strong fragrance and a hint of matically decreasing the area available represent the small and refined char- tart fruitiness, and led Tieguanyin to for planting. Because of these core acter of Taiwan. become famed as a regional specialty external and internal influences, it tea that’s representative of the tradi- was inevitable that Tieguanyin would tional art of Taiwanese tea-making. undergo a fundamental change. Muzha (Mucha) In recent years, the characteris- In addition, the advent of tea Tieguanyin 木柵鐵觀音 tics of Tieguanyin, from the aroma to competitions had an influence on the the mouthfeel, have all changed a lot flavor of Tieguanyin. The authorities During the period of Japanese from that early style. So what were the hoped to stimulate the tea economy, rule, tea masters Zhang Naimiao ( main factors that contributed to the so from their perspective, the more 張迺妙) and Zhang Naigan (張迺 evolution of Tieguanyin’s flavor? The tea varieties entered in the competi- 乾) imported Tieguanyin tea seed- external factors include the develop- tions, the better. In order to keep the lings from Anxi and planted them on ment of tea plantations in Maokong competitions running, they needed to Zhanghu Mountain in Muzha Dis- in the 1990s that were aimed at sight- expand the area of origin of the raw trict (also called “Mucha”). Due to seers. After Maokong became a tour- tea leaves, so tea growers moved to

45/ The Lost Art of Oolong Pinglin to grow their tea, and started tional manufacturing method. If we Beauty’s distinctive taste and vigorous, to make Tieguanyin using tea leaves can promote the proper appreciation energizing liquor was received with from the Pinglin region. Tieguanyin of Tieguanyin, then people will rec- great enthusiasm and became very teas from areas of mainland China ognize its true rarity and worth and popular. also entered the arena alongside there will naturally be a market for it. Eastern Beauty can only be pro- Muzha Tieguanyin, slowly diluting Once demand is established, it will duced in one season of the year the distinctive traditional flavor of have a stimulating effect on the wider (global warming has caused the quan- Tieguanyin. industry. tity they are able to produce in win- I believe that the rarer the pro- ter to diminish). This makes it very duction of traditional Tieguanyin difficult for small-scale tea farmers to becomes, the more we need to high- make a living from growing it, and light the few remaining great tea arti- Eastern Beauty the production of Eastern Beauty tea sans, tea bush varietals, and tea-mak- 東方美人 in Taiwan is gradually decreasing. ing methods, to set a benchmark for The tea plantations are small and the the industry. I hope that this high Eastern Beauty tea is also called resources concentrated, which makes benchmark will become the pride of “Peng Feng tea,” or “Bai Hao (white it relatively easy to hand-select the Taiwan and set an example for Anxi, tip) oolong.” It’s mainly produced in choicest tea leaves that have been bit- so that once it has gained prominence, the Taoyuan, Hsinchu, and Miaoli ten by the small green leaf-hoppers its uniqueness will be better recog- areas of Taiwan. Its most recognizable whose saliva gives the tea its char- nized. To truly capture the “Guan- characteristics are its delicate, linger- acteristic sweetness. Because of this, yin spirit” that is so sought-after in ing honey aroma, and the way it com- the same few people tend to take the traditional Muzha Tieguanyin tea bines the traditional taste of oolong top prizes in the tea competitions. (named for Guanyin, the Bodhisattva with the richness of red tea—of all the Add to this the importing of teas of Mercy), you really need the genu- oolongs, it’s the closest in flavor to red from outside Taiwan (and other fac- ine Tieguanyin varietal, plus the tradi- tea. In 20th-century England, Eastern tors) and the result is that over time,

46 Taiwan Oolong this type of tea has also lost some of (a measure equal to 11 kilograms). its appearance and scent; it’s a mov- its unique characteristics. The level This had a big influence on the tea ing experience. How many tea lovers of oxidation has become lighter and industry and established Dong Ding get to experience that these days? It’s lighter, and environmental changes oolong as the leading player in Tai- become very rare. Now you just put have meant that the unique quality wanese tea competitions and the most the leaves in a tea-turning machine resulting from the green katydids’ well-known and influential of Tai- that rolls them for you. Likewise, after saliva is less and less prominent. The wan’s traditional oolongs. washing machines were invented, you tea that is now produced can easily These days, a situation worth rarely see anyone hand-washing their fetch ten to twenty thousand New pondering is this: in the competition clothes, and we all use electric rice Taiwanese Dollars per half a kilogram, categories for such a large-scale tea as cookers to make dinner—the taste of yet the brewed tea is a very pale gold- Dong Ding oolong, the majority of the that crunchy rice you fondly remem- en-yellow color and lacks the tradi- best-performing teas are in fact made ber eating from the bottom of the pan tional amber color and robust flavor from raw tea leaves sourced from very is now just a childhood memory. You it had in the past. So the fundamental high-elevation tea plantations and not can’t go back. These days, tea lovers quality of the tea has slowly changed. from Dong Ding itself. Of course, this are even more sincere and profound How could we allow such a distinc- is because highly elevated plantations in their interest, and more numerous tive tea to simply disappear, being have particularly favorable growing than we were back then, but there are among Taiwan’s most recognized spe- conditions, so the tea they produce so many things that they have never cialty teas and an important Taiwan- has a pleasantly soft, sweet taste. But had the chance to experience, and ese export, with a flavor appreciated because of this, the original purpose probably never will. It really is a great by even Queen Victoria of England? of holding a competition for local tea pity. Though we may not have the oppor- varieties—that is, to promote and bol- tunity to experience Eastern Beauty as ster the local tea-growing regions— it once was, we cannot lose sight of its has been lost. To draw a comparison: worthiness of our appreciation. in a sporting event, athletes should be judged by their skill on the sports field, and not forced to dress up and enter a beauty pageant instead! Dong Ding Oolong Although the high mountain teas are 凍頂烏龍 indeed very sweet and fragrant, Dong Ding has a richer, more full-bodied Dong Ding oolong is produced in taste and deserves to shine on its own 真 Lugu Township in Taiwan’s Nantou stage. When making tea, it’s import- County, at an elevation of 500 to 800 ant to work with the natural character meters above sea level. It’s quite heav- of the tea. Only then can you achieve ily withered and oxidized and goes the traditional local style and flavor through several rounds of rolling in that Dong Ding oolong should display. 理 cloth bags to give the leaves their ball- I truly hope that the Dong Ding like shape (one of the traditional skills tea region will be able to slowly involved in making Dong Ding oolong recover, and that after the ecosystem is rolling the tea with one’s feet). After and soil have been sufficiently cul- 在 that, it’s slowly roasted over a charcoal tivated, it will once again look just fire to give the tea its characteristic as it used to. Unfortunately, though rich, mellow fragrance. The crafts- understandably, no-one is willing to manship involved in making the tea is reproduce that traditional flavor of 杯 very delicate and complex, represent- days gone by because of the time and ing the art of Taiwanese tea-making at effort involved—the road to the past its finest. is a hard road to travel. Some time The Lugu Township Farmers’ ago, I had the chance to go to the Collective that sprang up around mountains and experience tea-mak- 裡 Dong Ding oolong tea made a very ing for myself. You couldn’t even go to significant contribution to the local sleep at night because you had to get industry: the volume of tea that they up every two or three hours to pro- submitted to annual competitions cess the tea—it was very hard work! represented two-thirds of the total Throughout the tea-making process, volume of all entries. Every year, the every time you turn the tea leaves volume of spring and winter tea sam- over, every time you gather them up ples that they submitted to the com- and spread them out, you can feel petitions totaled several thousand dian the subtle changes in the tea—in

47/ The Lost Art of Oolong The Small but Beautiful Culture of Traditional Taiwanese Oolong

The most outstanding features of Taiwan are its beauty and small size. In the past, our greatest source of pride was the purity of Taiwanese tea: the entire process from production to export and local consumption, the development of tea from an every- day drink to one of life’s most refined pleasures… every aspect of this devel- opment has been very complete, and has established a very high standard for tea in Taiwan. Take the sudden rise of aged puerh, for example. Aged puerh tea had been around in Hong Kong for a very long time and was a dime a dozen there; however, once it reached the palates of the Taiwanese peo- ple and they recognized its excellent qualities, it soon became very valu- able. Taiwan had a taste for puerh tea, Mainland China had the capital, and Hong Kong had the goods—so aged puerh really highlighted the charac- teristics of all three places and created a fully formed supply-and-demand relationship. When others provide a market, we need to establish the right standards for appreciating tea, instead of just blindly swaying with the mar- ket. Once we’ve really mastered this “small and beautiful” quality and established our authority in appre- ciating and critiquing tea, we’ll have a much bigger platform to make our voices heard. This will bring about many positive changes and enable Tai- wan’s traditional oolong tea to forge its own path in the world.

Master He Jian.

48 Taiwan Oolong

台 A History of 灣 Taiwanese Oolong 烏 茶人: Ruan Yi Ming (阮逸明) 龍 Donated by Wushing

茶 Such comprehensive exploration of the history of Taiwanese oolong has never before been translated into the English lan- 歷 guage. This issue once again demonstrates our commitment to traveling deeper into the tea world than any publication 史 ever has, exploring tea in all its facets. We hope this article, along with our Classics of Tea series, begins a new trend of making such works available to a Western audience.

he earliest techniques used to became some of Taiwan’s most famous The Origin and make Taiwanese oolong were specialty teas. adopted from Fujian oolong After the liberation of Taiwan Development of Tproduction methods imported by from Japanese rule, Puzhong tea Taiwanese Oolong Chinese settlers. Consequently, early (埔中茶) from Mingjian, Nantou Taiwanese oolong possessed charac- (名間鄉) and Dong Ding oolong Tangshan Tea Cultivated in Taiwan teristics of Fujian-style Wuyi Cliff Tea (凍頂烏龍茶) from Lugu, Nantou (武夷岩茶): a rich, savory aftertaste (鹿谷鄉) continued to be produced The first Chinese to cross the and reddish color. During the Japa- with a technique similar to south- Taiwan strait in order to culti- nese occupation, Taiwanese oolong ern Fujian-style Iron Goddess oolong vate the island predominately came continued to be produced using Fuji- (Tieguanyin, 鐵觀音烏龍茶). This from the Fujian and Guangdong an-style techniques and started com- method involves repeatedly kneading areas of China. These first-comers peting with Fujian oolong (福州烏 the tea leaves inside a special cotton called mainland China “Tangshan 龍) in the international market. In the satchel and slowly roasting the tea, (唐山),” a phrase taken from a com- 1920s, the international oolong mar- traditionally over coals. The roasting bination of the Chinese words for ket experienced a downturn and the process is what creates the tea’s dis- “Tang Dynasty (大唐)” and “coun- Japanese governor-general of Taiwan tinctive aroma and aftertaste and the try (江山).” According to historical took steps to diversify Taiwan’s tea reddish color of the liquor. By the records, tea plants have been culti- trade by actively promoting Taiwanese end of the 1970s, tea lovers in Taiwan vated in Taiwan for over 200 years. red tea production. Under the guid- began referring to this type of tea as Most oolong tea produced in Taiwan ance of the government-supported “red water oolong (hong shui, 紅水烏 today is harvested from varietals that Pingzhen Tea Manufacture Experi- 龍茶)” in order to distinguish it from were originally brought to the island ment Station (平鎮茶業試驗支所), other products in the oolong market. by early settlers from Fujian. These the development of lightly withered, Using a combination of literature and settlers also imported their tea pro- lightly oxidized, fragrant Baozhong tea personal experience, we can attempt duction techniques alongside the tea and heavily withered, heavily oxidized to explain how hong shui oolong plants. Thus, the methods used to cre- Eastern Beauty oolong (椪風茶) was gained significance in the develop- ate oolong and Baozhong teas in Tai- initiated. These products eventually ment of Taiwan’s tea industry. wan today really originated in Fujian.

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茶 史 Taiwan Oolong In History of the Development of Emperor Jiaqing’s reign (1810 C.E.). Fujian’s Wuyi Cliff Tea. The use of a Taiwan, author Daxue Cheng states, Chinese settlers from Wuyi moun- special cloth sack roller (布球揉捻) “In the 23rd year of Emperor Kangxi’s tain in Fujian began to sow tea seeds (also called a wrapped cloth roller reign (1684 C.E.), settlers from in Jieyukeng (modern-day Ruifang (包布揉) by some tea makers), a Guangdong province began arriving District (台北縣瑞芳地區) in Tai- rolling cloth sack (揉布球), and a in Yingge Stone Village (modern day pei County); others interpret this area ball rolling machine (團揉) during Yingge Township (鶯歌鄉) in south- to have extended from the Shiding the manufacturing process is what ern Taipei County) to cultivate and (石碇) maple forest to the Tuku area creates Dong Ding oolong’s distinc- develop the land. After an armed con- of Shenkeng (深坑土庫地區) in New tive fragrance and partially balled flict between settlers from Fujian (the Taipei City. shape. The craftsmanship of neigh- Hoklo) and Guangdong (the Hakka), In northern Taiwan, tea planta- boring Zhushan township’s Shan Lin the Hakka were removed and the tions developed along the Danshui Xi high-mountain oolong (衫林溪 Hoklo were permitted to cultivate tea River basin and the tributaries of 高山烏龍茶) also originated from in Chashan.” If Cheng’s account is Xindian Creek, Keelung River, and this manufacturing process. Besides true, it can be inferred that Taiwanese Dakekan Creek (now called Dahan the aforementioned Danshui River tea cultivation began during the reign Creek (大漢溪) of Hsinchu and tributary system, Lugu’s Dong Ding of Emperor Qianlong (1711–1799 Taoyuan counties). The land devel- mountain also had an important and C.E.), which is when the armed con- oped for tea cultivation comprised far-reaching influence on the Taiwan- flict between the Fujian and Guang- modern-day (for- ese tea industry, yet its tea appears dong peoples is recorded to have merly Taipei County) and Taoyuan to have its origins in Tieguanyin occurred. City (formerly Taoyuan County) and oolong (鐵觀音烏龍茶) from Jhan- Su Wen Ta’s (蘇文達) A Brief expanded out to Yilan County, Hsin- ghu Mountain in Muzha, Taipei, and History of Dong Ding Oolong posits, chu County, and . Harbor tea (gan kou cha, 港口茶) in “Su Dong Ding’s family genealogy, Expanses of high elevation cannot be Manchou, Pingtung. recorded in their Su family ancestral found in the topography stretching Muzha’s Iron Goddess oolong records, began with two Su neph- from Yilan to Hualian, over to Miaoli (Muzha Tieguanyin, 木柵鐵觀音烏 ews who crossed the strait to Taiwan and down to Taichung in central Tai- 龍茶) originated from Iron Goddess during the Kangxi period. Su Tan wan. Consequently, during both the oolong in Anxi, Fujian. During the (蘇坦) guided the development of Qing Dynasty and subsequent Japa- final years of the Qing Dynasty (when Dong Ding Mountain until his son, nese occupation, the government cat- Japan occupied Taiwan), Iron God- Su Quan (蘇泉), began cultivating egorized the cities of Taipei, Taoyuan, dess tea was brought to Taipei by tea the tea plants growing on the moun- Hsinchu, Miaoli, and Yilan into the master Zhang Nai Miao. His hard tain. Their children and grandchildren same tea district. It was understood work, perseverance, and zeal built the continued living in Dong Ding, ear- that the entire tea district used iden- reputation of Muzha Iron Goddess nestly manufacturing tea and farming tical tea production techniques and oolong (Tieguanyin). The secrets of new ground on Dong Ding Moun- cultivated tea belonging to the same this magical tea varietal and the art of tain. Their descendants Su Hui and Wuyi Cliff Tea varietals/cultivars. Peng its cultivation were then passed down Su Ru, as father and son, decided to Feng tea (椪風茶, also referred to as to locals in Muzha. Later, the Zhang completely leave the ancient farms “Eastern Beauty, 東方美人” or “white Nai Miao Memorial Hall was estab- and gardens to buy and sell contracts tip oolong, (Bai Hao, 白毫)” was later lished to commemorate his contribu- (leaving behind their moderately initiated in this area, eventually turn- tion to the development of Muzha’s established, century-old location).” ing into the renowned specialty teas Iron Goddess oolong. According to the above, the Su family of Ermei (峨眉) and Beipu (北埔), In the first year of the Qing also estimated that Dong Ding oolong Hsinchu and Toufen (頭份), as well Emperor Guangxu (1875 C.E.), was originally cultivated during the as Miaoli. This masterfully crafted tea the county of , Pingtung, years of Emperor Qianlong’s reign. was transformed from Wuyi Cliff Tea appointed its first county magistrate, Another generally cited source is (the original oolong tea) into a new Zhou Youji (周有基). Zhou’s affinity Heng Liang’s (連橫) chronicling in tea of its own. for tea and support for its cultivation General History of Taiwan: “During Another important birthplace of in Hengchun facilitated the planting the reign of Emperor Jiaqing (1760- Taiwanese tea developed along the of tea in southern Taiwan. In 1894, 1820 C.E.), a man named Chao Ke Choshui River valley. The crafts- Hengchun county records state, “Luo (柯朝) brought Wuyi (武夷) tea manship of Song Bai Keng tea (com- Foshan tea (羅佛山茶): Thirty kilo- plants from Fujian into Taiwan monly referred to as Puzhong tea meters northeast of the , and planted them in Jieyukeng (埔中茶) back in the day) from there are towering mountains and (傑魚坑), where they matured Mingjian, Nantou and Dong Ding precipitous ranges. The county magis- extremely well.” W. H. Ukers, who oolong (凍頂烏龍茶), manufac- trate, Zhou Youji, purchased tea seeds authored All About Tea in 1935, tured in Lugu, Nantou was derived and taught the local people how to believed tea cultivation in northern from south Fujian-style oolong, cultivate the plants… Their tea tasted Taiwan began in the fifteenth year of which is very different from north very pure and had a red color… Every

51/ A History of Taiwanese Oolong 傳

Traditional and modern, lightly-oxidized oolong

year their tea production amounted production of Harbor tea gradually sale and exported under the name to less than five kilograms.” The became mechanized after the 1970s, “Fuzhou oolong (福州烏龍).” county records also say: “Harbor tea it still retains its gray-green luster and In 1860, the Taiwanese port cities (港口茶): Twenty kilometers east its characteristic cold, raw taste, like a of Anping and Danshui opened for of the county, a place named Linhai densely concentrated pure white frost. trade with foreign nations and for- (臨海) also produces a small amount Harbor tea plantations, though small, eign businessmen leapt at the oppor- of tea that is similar to Luo Foshan tea still retain a special status in Taiwan. tunity. In 1861, Robert Swinhoe, in color, fragrance and taste.” stationed at the English consulate in I first witnessed the traditional Taiwan, was the first to point out the production techniques used to create excellent quality of Taiwanese tea, the Manzhou, Pingtung’s Harbor tea, in The Birth of Formosa close proximity of tea mountains to 1973. Produced purely and simply Tea (Taiwanese Oolong) the port of Danshui, and the potential by hand, the tea is curled, rolled and for developing a tea trade. In 1864, dried from within the same tea wok. In the early 19th century, Chinese the Englishman John Dodd went to The tea wok kneading processneces - from Fujian and Guangdong gradu- Taiwan to investigate the potential for sitates an exacting technique, giving ally began expanding the cultivation investment in camphor trees along the the tea leaves their green-gray luster, of tea in northern Taiwan. By the Danshui River. During his inspection, tightly knotted cord-like shape, and 1850s, the northern Taiwan tea plan- Dodd realized that the Danshui River an upward bend which resembles an tations that followed the hilly terrain basin was more suitable for grow- eyebrow. With an outward appearance of Danshui River and its tributaries ing tea. In 1865, he encouraged local almost analogous to Chinese Eyebrow were everywhere. At that time, much farmers to produce tea, and in 1866, tea (mei cha, 眉茶), we can speculate of Taiwanese tea was coarsely man- he established Dodd & Co. With the that Harbor tea’s craftsmanship origi- ufactured on the island before it was assistance of a man from Xiamen, Li nated in the Zhejiang region of China transported to Xiamen, Fuzhou, and Chensheng (李春生), Dodd acquired using the same production techniques other places, mainland China to be Taiwanese tea to promote his new tea as Chinese Eyebrow tea. Although the refined (sorted, blended, roasted) for enterprise.

52 Taiwan Oolong In 1867, Dodd transported Tai- tea (解塊機) was popularized and in inducing a higher oxidation level. wanese tea to Xiamen to be finished 1915, the field-side pan-fire drum After three to seven minutes of toss- (roasted, sorted and packaged) and (田邊式釜炒機) was invented, ing, the leaves shimmer in both fresh successfully distributed and sold the replacing the manual pan-firing green and gorgeous red tints respec- refined tea in Macao. In 1868, Dodd of tea leaves in woks. In 1927, the tively; different from Fujian-style established a tea facility in what is the use of the Type II Drier (乙種乾 oolong’s green leaves inlaid with red present day Wanhua district of Taipei. 燥機) became widespread as well. The veins. Aside from the tea transported to Xia- complete mechanization of oolong After pan-firing, a distinctive pro- men and Fuzhou for refinement and production resulted in a number of cess takes place in which the leaves are export, Taiwanese tea also began to processing changes that standardized placed inside a compression vessel and be sold directly to the United States oolong production, but at the cost left to rest for 10–15 minutes. This in 1869, initiating the “Formosa tea of traditional craftsmanship. The tea stifling environment causes the leaves (福爾摩沙茶)” and “Foochow tea leaves experienced a more prolonged to again become pliable and deepens (福州茶)” markets. Since then, withering period, a reduction of shak- the level of their oxidation. Once that “Formosa tea” also started being ing, and an efficient drying without process is finished, the leaves pres- called “Taiwanese oolong,” becom- simultaneous water accumulation and ent a beautiful copper brown color. ing internationally renowned for its moderate oxidation. These processes They are then lightly rolled in order excellent quality and distinct flavor. maintained the fundamental elements to avoid breaking off their white tips. Consequently, British and American of Fujian-style Wuyi Cliff Tea, pro- These improved manufacturing meth- businessmen began coming to Taiwan ducing the characteristic green leaves ods resulted in the most successful one after another to participate in the inlaid with red veins. The increase in foreign sales to the United States in growing Taiwanese oolong trade. By efficiency meant that in 1915 12,000 1923, where it would become Tai- 1872, five Western companies—Dodd metric tons of Taiwanese oolong were wan’s most recognizable oolong. This & Co. (寶順洋行), Tait (德記洋行), exported for the commencement of special tea is generically called “Peng Boyd & Co. (和記洋行), Brown sales on the international market. Feng tea,” “Eastern Beauty,” or “Bai & Co. (水陸洋行) and Ellis & Co. Hao (white tip) oolong.” Immediately (愛利士洋行)—successively arrived after Taiwan’s liberation from Japa- to set up offices in Taiwan. Eastern Beauty Oolong nese rule, when people said “oolong,” it specifically referred to this kind of (The Beginning of heavily withered, heavily oxidized Taiwanese Oolong Peng Feng Tea) tea, distinct from Fujian oolong. Manufacturing Methods In 1920, Taiwanese oolong export During Japanese Rule sales fell by more than half of their original volume. This development Taiwanese oolong manufacturing prompted the international tea mar- methods during Japanese rule fol- ket to turn its attention toward red lowed the production methods used teas. The Ping Zhen Tea Manufacture under Qing Dynasty rule, except the Experiment Station responded to the production was made more scientific trend of the times accordingly. The by the replacement of manual labor Station contrived the heavy withering with machines, which increased out- and heavy oxidation processes which put. For example, when using sun created the gorgeous color, aroma and withering to reduce the moisture con- taste of Eastern Beauty (Peng Feng). tent in tea leaves, a 10% water loss This amazing tea is sun with- rate is appropriate (i.e., the weight of ered until a 15–35% rate of water the raw leaves is reduced by 10%). loss occurs, almost double the 10– In the year 1905, the research 15% rate of water loss in Fujian-style and development of tea processing oolong. The front end of the indoor machinery was initiated, and by 1912, withering and tossing process employs its use was popularized, ultimately light tossing and a prolonged wither- replacing manual shaking during ing time, eliminating excess water in indoor withering. In 1911, the Japa- the tea leaves and creating ideal con- nese introduced the oolong tea rolling ditions under which the leaves can machine (望月式揉捻機) to replace be evenly dried. The color of the tea what they saw as an “unhygienic” gradually deepens to green-gray and practice of using the feet to knead the leaves give off a unique fragrance. the tea leaves. In 1912, the use of a In the final processing stage, the tea machine to break up clumps of rolled leaves are more vigorously tossed,

53/ A History of Taiwanese Oolong “Peng Feng” literally means to exagger- wanese oolong market began to slow, 1) The raw material tea used in mak- ate or tell a tall tale. The tea was called tea merchants took the unmarketable ing light Baozhong tea takes termi- this, as the story goes, because other oolong and transported it to Fuzhou nal-facing tea leaves that are two- farmers couldn’t believe that their for scenting with flowers. This process thirds open at a suitable plucking neighbors were able to sell a tea that resulted in Baozhong tea, and some- period. For the most part, the suit- was decimated by insects for so high what eased the hardship facing oolong able plucking period for oolong tea a price. This tale probably has some tea businesses. In 1881, Taiwanese leaves happens about a week to ten truth to it. (Of course, insects do play Baozhong tea production began in ear- days earlier. a role in this tea’s production, but I nest when tea merchant Fuyuan Wu have chosen to focus instead on the (福源吳) from the “Yuan-Long Hao 2) The rate of sunlight withering as lesser-known history of its production (源隆號)” tea company in Quanzhou compared to Fujian-style oolong is method.) city, Tongan county, Fujian came to reduced by half. Generally, the rate Taiwan to produce Baozhong tea. of sunlight withering for oolong is The Baozhong tea initially manu- approximately 10%, but the rate for The Origin and factured in Taiwan was largely unre- Baozhong tea is only 5%. fined oolong and was used as an Development of Taiwan’s unfinished raw material for scenting 3) The indoor withering time is Baozhong Tea with flowers. The flower tea variet- extended, but the tossing procedure ies included Jasmine (茉莉), Orchid is comparatively more gentle. This The tea initially manufactured (樹蘭), Chamomile (黃枝), etc. It means that the oxidation level of in Taiwan was Fujian-style oolong. was in 1912 that what we think of as light Baozhong tea is only about half In 1869, English businessman John Baozhong tea began. that of Fujian-style oolong. Dodd’s successful export and sale of There were two striped oolongs Taiwanese oolong to the United States in the beginning. According to books 4) The tea is pan-fired at a higher raised its international profile. For- and related documents published by temperature for a shorter duration, eign businesses leapt at the opportu- the Taiwan Governor-General Pro- speeding up the drying process and nity to purchase tea, and farmers fell duction Office, the difference in man- giving the finished tea a dark for- over one another in their eagerness ufacturing methods between the tea est-green luster and a golden-yellow to open new tea plantations, result- used in green, light Baozhong tea and brew. This is different from Fujian ing in unbridled tea production on Wuyi Fujian-style oolong can be sum- oolong tea’s gray-green luster and the island. In 1873, when the Tai- marized as follows: reddish liquor.

Very old oolong; some from Taiwan.

54 Taiwan Oolong Sometime around 1921, Wang Ainosuke Tanimura, and assistant Shuijin (王水錦) and Wei Jingshi engineer, Bokuni Inoue, jointly man- (魏靜時) of Taipei’s Nangang Dak- aged research to improve the shape of eng district created new technologies Baozhong tea. Using woks slanted at a for the manufacturing of Baozhong 60-degree angle, the Baozhong tea was tea. After successfully researching and fired and then rolled into the same developing green, fragrant Baozhong ball-shape of Iron Goddess oolong. tea, they found that Baozhong’s sweet, The tea was then roasted in a bam- flowery fragrance naturally arose from boo baskets until it was sufficiently proper withering and shaking with- dry. The production of ball-shaped out having to be scented with actual Baozhong tea was considered less diffi- flowers. This discovery revolutionized cult, and by 1930, tea seminars began methods for manufacturing Taiwanese lectures on managing spherical tea Baozhong tea. Starting in 1922, the production. However, before the lib- new methods for manufacturing fra- eration of Taiwan, Baozhong tea and grant Baozhong tea began to spread, other Taiwanese oolongs were still promoted through tea seminars. As a classified as striped teas. result, under Japanese rule, two types According to the Taiwan Tea Man- of Baozhong tea existed. One type was ufacturers Association (台灣區製茶 created in China, a flower-scented 工業同業公會), cloth-rolling tech- Baozhong tea, and was mainly nology was developed after the ret- exported to Java, Indonesia and Man- rocession of Taiwan to China. Their chukuo. The other variety was Tai- 2004 publication, Taiwan’s Tea Indus- wan’s distinctive naturally flower-fra- try: Fifty Years of Development, outlines grant Baozhong, exported mostly to the history of cloth-rolling in Taiwan: Vietnam and Thailand. Owing to “Cloth-rolling technology was intro- its unique aroma, taste, and specific duced in Taiwan in 1939 by Wang production technologies, fragrant Youtai (王友泰) from the Fuji Tea- Baozhong turned into an internation- shop in Taipei and Wang De (王德), ally-renowned tea that was character- both expats from Anxi, Fujian. This istically Taiwanese, becoming even cloth-rolling technique from Anxi— more recognizable than other Taiwan- the traditional way of making ball- ese oolongs of the time. shaped Iron Goddess tea—was intro- Hsinchu province in northern Tai- duced to the tea industry in Mingjian, wan originally relied heavily on man- Nantou and Muzha in the north. ufacturing oolong, but the oolong Later, when Wang departed Mingjian export market fell into a slump and in 1941, that processing methodol- the active spread of fragrant Baozhong ogy was transported to Dong Ding, tea production began in the 1920s. Lugu, and the cloth-rolling technique However, the majority of tea plant was taught by Eitakashi (永隆) until species in the province were Huang 1949. In the early 1950s, Mingjian, gan (黃柑) and Ching shin (青心) Nantou began producing cloth-rolled varieties of tea, which were not suit- Baozhong tea, and starting in the able for the production of fragrant 1970s, the technique gradually spread Baozhong tea. So, a switch began to to other tea regions.” the development of red tea and heav- In 1973, Lugu Township’s Mura- ily withered, heavily oxidized Eastern chin Eitakashi (永隆村陳) success- weight, the cloth-rolling machine Beauty tea. fully researched and developed a could knead three cloth sacks at one cloth-rolling machine. The cloth-roll- time. By 2000, the weight each cloth Shifting from Baozhong to ing machine could knead four cloth sack was able to contain increased to Partially Balled Baozhong Tea sacks at one time, but manual labor 7.5–10 kilograms, and the cloth-roll- And Then to Modern Oolong was still required to bundle each of ing machine could knead two sacks at the cloth sacks, which weighed 1- one time. Under both Qing Dynasty and 1.5 kilograms after rolling. In 1984, The invention of the cloth-roll- Japanese rule, manufactured Baozhong Mingjian’s Chen Qingzhen (陳清鎮) ing and bundling machines one after tea and oolong were both categorized successfully developed a cloth sack the other meant that machinery as “striped” or “twisted (條形茶).” bundling machine and the weight could take the place of people in the In 1929, the Pingzhen Tea Manu- each cloth sack was able to contain cloth-rolling procedure, saving labor, facture Experiment Station director, increased to 3.5–4 kilograms. At this increasing output and reducing costs.

55/ A History of Taiwanese Oolong Traditional basket for carrying tea utensils, stove for heating water for gongfu tea and a per- sonal roaster for waking tea up before brewing, which was com- mon at the time. These date to the mid-Qing Dynasty (1644-1911).

After the mechanization of In recent years, the cloth-roll- ing the pressing machine, cloth-roll- cloth-rolling, the tea’s shape also ing and bundling machines have ing machine and bundling machine evolved from the partially balled shape been replaced by the development together in today’s oolong production of manually cloth-rolled tea to the of a pressing machine. Although process. That way, function, ability ball-shaped tea produced by machine. the pressing machine’s high speed and cost-efficiency can come together For the most part, tea districts in Tai- saves time and produces tea with an without sacrificing the distinct aroma wan today produce either partially emerald-green luster and a refined and flavor characteristic of Taiwanese balled or ball-shaped Baozhong tea fragrance, because the tea does not tea. (which is now marketed as “oolong,” undergo cloth-rolling, its body is of course), except for the Wen Shan weak and it is not patient enough. and Nangang tea districts, where If we aren’t going to return to tradi- striped Baozhong tea is still skillfully tional hand-processed tea, then more produced to this day. consideration should be given to pair-

56 Organic Oolongs f you have followed us thus far on in the issue (with Guanyin watching and rainfall). While lightly-oxidized our journey through Taiwanese over the seas we travel). oolongs can indeed be fragrant, floral oolong tea, you are starting to get As we began down this road, we and a tremendous joy to drink, they Ithe lay of the land—at least as we see knew that we wanted to introduce the often lack the body of traditionally it. Of course, any attempt to explore general background of Taiwan, its rich processed tea, are less ageable and such a vast topic as Taiwanese oolong tea heritage, the varietals and kinds therefore need to be consumed more tea must make editorial decisions. of oolongs and where they are pro- quickly (while fresh), require more There are a tremendous number of per- duced. As we explored those basics, packing and were primarily created spectives we could cover, from linear the same themes started surfacing in and encouraged by an expanding tea information to history and from pro- our own understanding of Taiwanese market that needed mass-produced cessing to individuals who are import- oolong, the discussions we had with tea. Such tea was invented and driven ant in Taiwanese tea culture. When we tea masters as well as in exploring the in large part by quantity, not quality. started producing this issue, we weren’t history of this magical tea. You may The point of discussing this issue is sure where this would lead. Like you, have already noticed the two leitmo- not to be too harsh on modern farm- we started with a bit of wandering so tifs woven throughout our journey so ers or on lightly oxidized oolong. We that we could find the structure in the far: environmental sustainability and don’t want to hurt Her feelings. But maps we’re making, which is why we the loss of / nostalgia烏 for / revival of there is a growing nostalgia for tradi- chose to have these map-like sections traditional processing methods. tionally processed oolong tea in Tai- Modern innovation and a move- wan that is creating many new and ment towards lighter, greener oolong amazing innovations, as well as resur- production has indeed resulted in recting some very amazing old teas. some amazing, bright and delicious Traditional processing, with more new teas—teas that we love and drink oxidation and roast, is growing. The often at the Center. We hope that more awareness there is surround- you don’t find this whole Extended ing this issue, the more we can move Edition to be antagonistic to such towards a market that offers us the tea. However, there is a real magic choice of light, green, dark, full-bod- in traditionally processed oolong ied or even aged oolong. The other tea. Remember, oolong processing important reason to raise awareness didn’t change much for hundreds of concerning traditional processing years (other than the evolution that relates to the other theme of this issue: occurred in response to new varietals environmental sustainability. and the small adaptations that hap- As Mr. Tsai said in the article on pen each season due to the weather the Tea of the Month, sometimes we of the North

have to choose between fragrance and we have more than we need, or even for wisdom is “prajna.” “Pra” means sustainability. This depends on the want to. “before” and “na” is “knowledge,” so location and varietal, of course, but We always make a strong effort wisdom is that which is before knowl- it is often true that producing lighter, to overwhelm any discussion of the edge, or the “beginner’s mind,” as it greener oolong means that insects problems in the tea world, environ- is often translated in Zen. We try to must not bite the leaves, which would mental or otherwise, with solutions. avoid saying “repeat” here at the Cen- cause unwanted oxidation. One solu- We believe that change happens ter and focus on “renew” instead. That tion to this, of course, is to use nat- through inclusion, through exam- way, there is always more to learn, ural pest deterrents, like essential ple—through the heart! We wanted to greater skill to master and new moun- oils, predators, etc., but that requires save some space, therefore, for some tains of tea to explore! more effort and expense on the part of the brighter examples of proper tea Some of you will be meeting these of the farmer. The average cash-crop farming in Taiwan that we have cov- tea masters for the first time and oth- tea farmer won’t be willing to do that. ered over the years, echoing their sto- ers of you once more. Either way, let Lighter, greener oolong also intro- ries forward because those who care us learn from them: their approach, duces more machinery and packaging for the earth matter. We decided to method and, of course, their tea. to maintain freshness and promotes stick to the northern part of the island Deep bows to Masters Yu San He, increased consumption, since you since we have limited space (even in (余三和) Gu Shen Chien (古乘乾) feel pressured to drink the tea sooner and extended issue), and because the and Gao Ding Shi (高定石). rather than later. Traditional process- north has had a greater concentration ing suits bug-bitten leaves—of course of environmentally-conscious and sus- it does; it started before the invention tainable farmers, and for longer. There of pesticides. It can also be stored as is a shift happening in the central long as you like, and in simple pack- highlands—one we hope continues. aging like our Tea of the Month. And But that will have to be a different more important than purchasing story for another issue of Global Tea organic, or even living tea, the best Hut. thing a tea lover can do for the envi- Onward, then, through a journey ronment is to consume less. When we of some of the brightest farms and drink a lightly oxidized oolong, we tea masters in Taiwan. Most of these are rarely satisfied (although there are were published before any of you were exceptions). It often is like having an members—back in the days when this appetizer, and we quickly move on to was just a newsletter with a few dozen other teas afterwards. That, coupled readers. Their stories are worth renew- with a desire to drink it fresh, means ing, though. In Sanskrit, the word

龍58 Respect for Great Nature

茶人: Dan Smith

inglin is a township about a organic plantation tea, or living tea. Just a ten-minute drive outside of half-hour’s drive east from He kindly and proudly looks at us in Pinglin town, but it already felt like downtown Taipei. But once the same way, too! It’s broad smiles we were far into beautiful, undevel- Pyou’re there, it’s hard to believe that it’s and tea brotherhood whenever we’re oped Taiwan. Antonio and I were all so close. It seems to be another world, together. smiles. And it seemed the land was with beautiful rivers and stunning It feels great to connect with the smiling back at us, thanking us for views down green mountain roads. brotherhood and sisterhood at the caring so much about it. We explored Traveling there is like stepping back in center in Miaoli, and it’s remarkably the small gardens, breathed in the time to a wilder Taiwan of five hun- easy to connect with people and their fresh air, smelled the earth and qui- dred years ago. communities worldwide while staying eted down to connect with the space. About two years ago, I was very there, as you have already experienced Then we met Mr. Yu San He, who has fortunate to have been introduced to through reading this magazine and become such an important brother to a wonderfully honest, down-to-earth being a part of Global Tea Hut. us. tea farmer, whose tea gardens thrive It was such a beautiful and mem- Like us, Mr. Yu is a meditator and there. Master Tsai introduced us on orable weekend when Master Tsai a vegetarian. He’s a very rare kind a day trip to Pinglin. Many of you introduced me to the producer of of tea farmer, too. From the first, he have probably read about our dear tea this month’s tea, Mr. Yu San He. At shines with a kind of directness, look- brother, Master Tsai, in these beauti- that time, Antonio from Barcelona ing you right in the eyes in a way shier ful Global Tea Hut envelopes. (If not, was enjoying a long visit to the Cen- Taiwanese won’t, and there’s kind- I recommend reading about him in ter, and he came up to stay a few days ness in those eyes as well. He’s quick the back issues, which are posted on with me in Taipei. We joined a group to laughter, like any healthy person, our website for free!) And if you have of Master Tsai’s students on a day trip but there’s also a solid foundation visited Taiwan, you may have already to Pinglin. Antonio and I were very of quiet pride and confidence that met him in person. Master Tsai has glad to go along, and we both felt for- comes with following Nature’s call- done so much for organic tea aware- tunate to be part of the group. Anto- ing in being a responsible steward of ness in Taiwan. Recently, he’s also nio and I had already become fast the Earth. It’s so great to have a gen- begun to influence tea production in friends, and that camaraderie was felt uine relationship with this man and mainland China and Japan. Every- throughout the whole group, cross- his tea gardens. There are others like one involved with the Tea Sage Hut ing the language and culture barriers Yu San He creating another move- sees him as a brother on the same between Master Tsai’s Taiwanese stu- ment of tea culture here, but meeting course towards promoting sustainable dents and us. such bright and shining examples of

59

余 Master Yu San He 三 和

how proper tea production should be leaves—discarding the more mature Though it was more oxidized in the conducted leaves you with a sense of ones and pulling off the larger stems. past, the modern-day processing hope. Sometimes, tea lovers who care “Baozhong (包種)” tea is by far style could be described as the green- about the Earth can get downhearted. the most common type of tea pro- est of the oolongs—falling some- When I feel that way, I find solace in duced here. Though the name “Wen where between green and oolong tea. Mr. Yu’s bright smiles, the devotion he Shan Baozhong” is famous locally Though traditional Baozhong was has to his tea and land, and of course, and internationally, most Baozhong most always more heavily oxidized the stunning gardens themselves. tea comes from Pinglin and Shiding. and roasted, there may have been The land around Pinglin is beau- “Wen Shan” is the name of the district some very green batches in the early tiful. This area lies in the northern which also contains Muzha (famous days too, as it has been described as a foothills of the high-altitude Xue Ba for Tieguanyin) and it’s right next “qing cha (青茶)” or “blue-green tea,” Mountains of northern Taiwan. It’s a door to Pinglin, Shiding and Taipei since the Qing Dynasty. It is a striped mountainous area with no highways City. oolong, originally processed much or train routes that stretches south- Baozhong oolong is a northern like a Wuyi Cliff Tea until the shift east to Yilan and Hualian, and bor- Taiwanese tea that dates back to the to lighter, more floralBaozhong hap- ders Hsinchu and Miaoli counties Qing Dynasty. The name “Baozhong” pened. Baozhong is the oldest oolong to the southwest. Rivers roll down refers to the traditional paper packag- in Taiwan. through the area on their way to the ing of the tea leaves that was used in Pinglin and its tradition of ocean; they’re charged with the high sale and export. It also represents a Baozhong production have influenced mountain energy. Most rivers in Tai- well-known name for this regional tea. Yu San He. He very much sees a her- wan are dammed and hardly recog- There is no true Baozhong tea from itage in these traditions. The great- nizable, but here, they’re still teeming anywhere other than northern Tai- est portion of the tea he makes is with life. You also quickly realize just wan. There could be some people that Baozhong and his long experience of how much tea is grown in this area. make or sell tea from another part of making it enhances all the red, green, There are tea gardens of various sizes Taiwan and call it “Baozhong Style,” Bai Hao oolong (Eastern Beauty) around every corner. The small wind- but I think locals probably feel that and GABA tea he makes. He is very ing roads reveal one after another at there’s something wrong in doing so. connected with his tea and the land almost every turn. If you take a walk It is characterized by a light withering in Pinglin, northern Taiwan. His tea through Pinglin Town, you are sure (oxidation) that produces pronounced fields are just a few kilometers away to see many shops, with a few grand- yet pleasant, natural floral, cool from the largest natural water reser- mas and aunties sorting through tea and vegetal fragrances and flavors. voir serving Taipei.

60 Taiwan Oolong Mr. Yu has been growing tea We took a drive up to see the gar- and Master Yu’s tea is a beautiful dis- organically for more than ten years, dens. Mr. Yu is always happy to share cussion about gratitude and love. I but the vast majority of the tea farm- information about how the weeds, hope you feel Mr. Yu’s spirit in this ers in the area haven’t been. Great vegetables, insects and worms of the tea, and through it connect to some of amounts of pesticides and chemical natural ecosystem are enriching the the vibrancy and natural power of Tai- fertilizers are sprayed there, to the land. And, of course, he and Wu wan’s rolling northern hills… detriment of the ecosystem and the De hit it off and spent hours talking future of tea production in the region. together about Tea. He decided long ago to stop being a One noteworthy factor about his part of this problem, and has since growing methods is that he doesn’t become a bright example of someone use any organic fertilizer or irriga- who can produce fine tea without tion. This is one of the character- polluting the environment. He’s also istics of Living Tea, referred to as become rather well known nowadays, “ziran nongfa (自然農法)” in Chi- with several magazine and newspaper nese (literally, “natural agriculture articles covering the positive impact method”). It’s based on a philosophy he’s having on the region. of letting the tea bushes struggle on Mr. Yu proudly refers to his their own, helping them as little as tea farm as “Respect for Great possible, and letting the weeds grow 地 Nature Farm.” After getting to up around them. This encourages the know him and this amazing farm, trees to weave themselves into the local ecosystem without any foreign agents, and 球 Mr. Yu’s bright spirit shines grow stronger through it. I like to refer to such through his land and tea. farming as “beyond just It is a beautiful demonstra- organic.” It is much closer 天 to Living Tea—full of tion of how tea is a merging vibrancy and harmony. of Heaven, Earth and Man. I’ve been living in Taiwan 堂 for about five years now, Walking through his gardens, and his teas are a few big, you can feel the influence that solid step above any other organic teas I’ve experi- 人 the farmer has on the land he enced here. stewards. As many of you know, we need some tea pro- duced at higher yields 類 which is indeed filled with a rever- so that everyone can have tea. That ence for Nature, I broached the sub- means compromise. Organic plan- ject of donating to Global Tea Hut tation tea serves a very important 攜 and his eyes lit up—smiling on their function, producing larger quantities own just moments before his mouth of tea so that everyone can share in followed. A few weeks later, Wu De, this medicine. Not all tea can be Liv- along with all the residents and guests ing Tea, in other words. But it is also 手 at Tea Sage Hut, came up to meet Mr. nice to see the emergence of this mid- Yu. As usual, he served us a delicious dle ground, which we call “ecological meal of organic vegetables from his gardens”: tea that is constrained and garden just outside his centuries-old compromised in some ways, but less 邁 traditional Taiwanese courtyard home. so than most plantation tea, including We drank tea through a pleasant organic ones. afternoon, smiling and laughing like Mr. Yu’s bright spirit shines old friends. Mr. Yu was so happy to through his land and tea. It is a beau- 前 see the previous issues of this maga- tiful demonstration of how tea is a zine, and proud that so many people merging of Heaven, Earth and Man. around the world would share his tea. Walking through his gardens, you can He said he felt supported by the fact feel the influence that the farmer has that so many people believe in what on the land he stewards. Tea is a con- he’s doing! versation between Man and Nature,

61/ Respect for Great Nature

Beauty of the Eastern Isle

茶人: Wu De

eipu is a gorgeous valley in the merchants like Dodd, but eventually than how we feel it should be done. northwest of this Formosa, they achieved success and Formosa tea Rather than telling your tea how you covered in green fields and rice went on to international renown. want to prepare it, see how it wants Bpaddies set off by the occasional white Like any and all of the sane cen- to be prepared. This is indeed a way crane soaring up from that brighter turies before this one, the farmers of to master life as well. This mythical green to the dark green of the sur- Taiwan of course grew all their tea and unknown master didn’t quit; he rounding mountains. The mists are organically. Unfortunately, a lot of adapted his production to Nature. channeled into this valley daily, and the valleys here that are perfect for Rather than complaining, or using the loose soil is rich in nutrients. It’s tea production—with excellent soil, chemicals to tell Nature what he no wonder that early tea farmers chose humidity and a rich and diverse ecol- wanted it to do, he adapted his pro- this special place to grow tea, know- ogy—were also perfect for Nature’s cessing methods to suit this bug-bit- ing that the terroir here would pro- manifold insects. Most bugs, however, ten tea. This is, in fact, how all the duce a unique and amazing tea, but are not particularly fond of tea as it is world’s traditional tea processing they couldn’t know just how special it bitter and produces tannins to protect evolved. It wasn’t invented; it evolved would be… itself. Also, tea mountains are usually in response to new varietals of tea. In the 19th century, many immi- at high elevations where insects are Real farmers commune with the land grants were crossing the strait from less of a threat. In Beipu and some and converse with Nature. They lis- Fujian to start a new life in Taiwan. other regions, however, there are large ten to the tea trees, communicating Many started growing tea for export, populations of leaf-hoppers that will with them each and every day. They primarily to sell to famous merchants eat tea in the late spring and summer adapt and learn, growing and mas- like John Dodd. At that time, there months. For that reason, the farmers tering their processing techniques in weren’t yet any commercial planta- found their crops decimated every response to trees each and every sea- tions up in the high mountains that summer, and came to rely solely on son. (Even Mr. Gu Shen Chien him- would later make Taiwanese tea so the harvest of other seasons. self, a modern farmer who masterfully famous. Most of Taiwan’s tea at that They say that one legendary produces beautiful Eastern Beauty tea, time was exported and was grown in farmer refused to give up, and taught has changed and adapted several pro- the lower, flatter areas of the north- us all one of the pivotal lessons of a cessing steps to suit the tea of this par- west, like Beipu. Here, they could life of tea, whether it be farming, pro- ticular age.) have larger plantations and higher ducing or preparing tea: all mastery After some experimentation, yields. It took some time to craft a tea of any art comes in doing that thing our legendary Qing Dynasty farmer that met the high standards of foreign the way it wants to be done, rather developed a new and exciting kind of

63

古 Master Gu Shen Chien 乘 乾

oolong that was processed in a way Mr. Gu is a fourth-generation Center. His face lit up when we told that enhanced the bug-bitten sum- Eastern Beauty farmer who has, like him people around the world would mer leaves. While other farmers were his father before him, worked incred- have a chance to appreciate his tea as throwing away their crops, he sold it ibly hard to preserve this amazing much as we do. We hope that any of all to John Dodd. As legend has it, tea culture. They worked hard and you who visit Taiwan get a chance to this amazing tea was so good that it expanded their traditional holdings visit with him and share a traditional reached the august hands of Queen to a neighboring field. With increased Hakka meal and some amazing tea. Elizabeth II, who was herself a great savings and years of hard work, they His tea center also does a lot to pro- tea lover. She reportedly favored the were able to revitalize Beipu’s Eastern mote and preserve other aspects of tea above all others and named it Beauty production. In 2000, Mr. Gu’s Hakka culture like food, ground tea “Eastern Beauty.” Bao Ji Tea Company bought back sev- (leicha), pomelo tea, vinegar produc- In the 1970s, Taiwan’s booming eral abandoned Eastern Beauty farms, tion, regional art and music and even economy shifted from agriculture to cleared several hectares and planted bamboo tea utensils carved by hand. industry and technology. As the qual- saplings there. They have thrived and His son is actually also quite famous ity of life rose dramatically, people are beginning to produce tea again. for making amazing tea utensils. moved from rural places like Beipu Mr. Gu’s son has this year begun The magic of Eastern Beauty to cities like nearby Hsinchu. More to take an active role in the fami- starts with the leaf-hoppers who bite and more people became interested ly’s production, ensuring a future for the leaves in the early summer. They in culture as they grew more affluent. Eastern Beauty and a fifth generation usually eat the first flush and then the High-mountain oolong from central of magical Bao Ji tea. It is returning to plant responds by producing a second Taiwan grew in popularity through- popularity and more people are dis- flush with more tannins to discourage out the island and beyond, so much covering or returning to this amazing the insects. When these little green so that most people think of such tea. friends return, they often only bite tea first when they think of Taiwan- Mr. Gu’s organic Eastern Beauty part of the leaves before moving on to ese tea. The dwindling of land for tea is a real treat, as is any time in his less bitter plants. There are enzymes in plantations, migration to the city and company. He does a lot to promote their saliva which cause the leaves to the aging of the tea farmers them- sustainable agriculture that protects begin to oxidize before they are even selves threatened the very existence of Nature and traditional culture. He is picked, turning red around the edges Taiwan’s Eastern Beauty. There were simple, genuine and giving, and he and growing at a crooked angle from some families who carried on, none- enthusiastically leapt at the opportu- the stem. These unique leaves are the theless. nity to donate some of his tea to our ones used for Eastern Beauty.

64 Taiwan Oolong Eastern Beauty oolong production involves many unique steps not found in other teas, one of which is that the tea is actually sorted as it is picked, which requires a slower and more involved picking process. The highest grades are all bug-bitten leaves, and exclusively one bud with two leaves, as it is with most high-grade teas. This requires a much more careful and arduous tea-picking. The pickers must carefully select only the best bud-leaf sets and pick them one by one. This is, of course, only for the highest grades of Eastern Beauty tea. At Bao Ji Tea, Mr. Gu and his team produce five levels of tea. The lower grades can actually be picked at a normal speed relative to other hand-picked tea in the world. Don’t assume that just because these katydids are an essential part of Eastern Beauty production that all such tea is organic. Actually, very few Eastern Beauty farmers are organic nowadays. They have perfected the art of spraying their trees at the right times to prevent and allow bugs, and many still use chemical fertilizers and weed-killers as well. Mr. Gu’s method is special and his organic tea is rare and clean. He has recorded more than twenty species of insects that interact with and affect his tea, not just the jassids that bite the leaves. Real tea production involves an entire ecology. grade of the tea (higher grades are is yet to be shaken and smell the dif- Eastern Beauty is the most oxi- done indoors and monitored much ference between them quite distinctly: dized of all oolong teas, in part more carefully). On the roof, they the previously shaken tea is much because it begins oxidizing on the tree have black cloth with holes that can more full-bodied, richer and more fra- before it is picked, and in part because automatically cover the entire area— grant. The tea is then spread out once of the arduous withering process that rolling out like a garage door on elec- again to be withered even more. It begins as soon as the tea reaches the tric shafts when needed. They shade will eventually go through four cycles tea processing plant from the field. the tea during the noon hours, and of withering and shaking, though only Mr. Gu, his son and a helper sleep but then retract the slightly transparent the first is so long. a few hours during the three weeks of black cloth when it isn’t as bright. All At the end of the withering and annual Eastern Beauty production, of this requires careful observation stirring/shaking, the tea is piled (jing as is the case with most traditional and great skill. After the tea is ade- tze, 靜置/wo dui, 臥堆) to further oolong producers who still follow quately withered, it is laid in a long oxidize it. It is piled on a round bam- Nature and harvest but once a year, as pile to be shaken. The higher grades boo mat and covered with a cloth. their entire year’s income is dependent of tea are shaken entirely by hand, Nearly all Eastern Beauty farmers use upon this tea. while the lower grades are tumbled wet piling and withering throughout The tea is spread out on sheets to in a machine for twenty minutes and their tea production, as this is quicker wither for a long time. Eastern Beauty then shaken by hand. As Mr. Gu says, and more convenient. Mr. Gu says it tea will be oxidized to around 80% by “the machines cannot be trusted with could increase their production by as the time it is done. The initial with- our precious tea.” This shaking stirs much as 30%, but he doesn’t believe ering (shai qing, 曬青) is done for the tea up and exposes every leaf to that quantity is as important as qual- about fourteen hours on a covered, more oxygen. You can grab a hand- ity and therefore uses a completely dry sunlit roof and sometimes indoors, ful of the tea Mr. Gu has shaken and process, even drier than what was ever depending on the weather and the another from the part of the pile that done traditionally. He says these adap-

65/ Beauty of the Eastern Isle Master Gu picking tea and a close up of the tiny katydids that make Eastern Beauty special.

tations are his own, and they are what in crates for around twenty minutes to dry the tea and put it in stasis—a separates his tea from other Eastern before being rolled (rou nian, 揉捻). limbo that will last until the end of Beauties. When the tea is piled, it is The rolling breaks down the cell walls the growing season. Roasting oolong usually around 60% oxidized. It will of the tea and releases the juices. Mr. tea is the most difficult and poten- then complete the other 20% in four Gu reminded us once again that he tially dangerous aspect of tea process- to eight hours of piling, depending on doesn’t trust the machines with his ing. Roasting secrets are guarded both the weather and the grade of the tea. heritage, and therefore rolls his tea in Taiwan and China, and often only After the tea is fully oxidized, it three times, twice by machine and known to the father and son. As the is fired (sha qing, 殺青). This stage, once by hand. When the tea emerges roast takes days and requires constant literally called “kill-green,” destroys from its rolling, it is at its most fra- monitoring, there is no time to roast enzymes that make tea bitter and grant, and a handful is enough to all the tea during the growing season. arrests further oxidation. It is done send you to the fabled Heavens Chi- The need to have the tea processed in a gas-heated tumbler that is heated nese people once believed existed by day’s end consumes all the farm- to around 280 degrees. After just a across the strait and up Taiwan’s ers’ time. Consequently, tea is always few minutes inside, the tea is then cloud-enshrouded mountains. roasted briefly to arrest oxidation and rolled into a ball inside a wet cloth. After the rolling, the tea is once dry the leaves sufficiently for it to sit The cloth is damp only because Mr. again piled (wo dui) for twenty or in bags for the remaining weeks of the Gu’s special tea has up until this point thirty minutes. At this time it is growing season. Then, after the sea- been withered, shaken, piled and fired roasted gently at low temperatures for son’s tea has all been processed, the in a dry way—very unique for East- around three hours. This first roast is farmers can catch up on some much- ern Beauty production. This stage called a “water roast (shui pei, 水焙).” needed sleep and get started roasting of Eastern Beauty production is also It’s done in a large oven with trays the tea properly. That way, the roast- very unique. The tea will rest in tight that are inserted horizontally, like ing is done carefully and slowly, as it is balls, which are bagged and placed shelves. It is not a real roast, but just an important step.

66 Taiwan Oolong Before the final roasting the tea The final roasting is divided into Eastern Beauty with charcoal and must be sorted (fan ji). The tea is first three stages. It is done in large, round uses electric roasters for the four lower sieved through bamboo to remove bamboo roasters with electric ele- grades. all the fannings, which are later used ments underneath that are meant to The first roast is only two to four in tea bags. The larger leaves are then mimic the heat of charcoal, which was hours long, and is called the “zhou spread out on large tables where they used traditionally. Mr. Gu would love jing pei (做驚焙).” It awakens the are sorted by size and quality by hand. to use charcoal to roast his tea, but tea from its slumber. Then there is a This is necessary at this stage because recently the prices of hardwood char- second roast called the “pei ze di (焙 different grades of tea are roasted in coal have risen dramatically. Taiwan 之蒂),” which begins to enhance the different ways. Usually, lower grade has a very unique kind of smokeless tea and bring out its unique flavors. oolong teas have always been given a charcoal made from dragon eye trees. It is “roasting the body” of the tea. heavier roast to cover up the defects in We actually use it here at the Center The final roast is where the real favor the tea. In places like Wuyi—and here to heat all our water. It is renowned is enshrined into this amazing tea, is in Beipu as well—lower grade tea is worldwide for the amazing influence called the “pei xiang wei (焙香味),” also often a blend of different kinds of it can have on roasting oolong tea, but which means that it locks in the fra- leaves and cultivars, so the roast helps the tree grows slowly and over-har- grance. This is the point at which Mr. bring a kind of uniformity to these vesting has driven the prices beyond Gu uses charcoal for his highest grade teas. The highest grades will be com- what most farmers can afford. Mr. teas. posed exclusively of buds. Gu therefore roasts his highest grade The tea is then sorted once more and packaged for sale. It should rest for some time, usually at least a few months, to let the roast settle down and leave the tea. Otherwise, this will be the only recognizable flavor. They say that a good roast enhances the tea without leaving any trace of itself. As you can see, a tremendous amount of effort goes into the pro- Making Eastern Beauty duction of this amazing tea: billions of years of evolution, a glorious dance 1) Picking (cai cha, 採茶) of Nature between the tiny jassids 2) Indoor and/or covered withering (shai qing, 曬青/ and enzymes in their saliva, hours of wei diao, 萎凋) sweating in the summer sun to clear abandoned farms and replant this 3) Shaking—machine-tumbling or by hand in long piles tea, shirtless and sleepless weeks on (yao qing, 搖青/lan qing, 浪青) the roof of the tea processing cen- —Four cycles of withering shaking— ter withering, shaking, piling, firing, 4) Piling for oxidation (jing tze, 靜置/wo dui, 臥堆) rolling and roasting, and of course doing it all with great skill and a bit 5) Frying to kill green enzymes and arrest of gratitude, which Mr. Gu definitely oxidation (sha qing, 殺青) manages. This wonderful collabora- 6) Rolling to break down cells (rou nian, 揉捻) tion between Nature, from Heaven to 7) Piling for a short time (wo dui, 臥堆) Earth—and from the tiniest insects to Man—is an inspiration that concludes 8) Initial “water roast” to arrest the tea in stasis until in your soul, from sip to sip… season’s end (shui pei, 水焙) 9) Sorting (fan ji, 分級) 10) Final roasting stage I: awakening (zhou jing pei, 做驚焙) 11) Final roasting stage II: roasting the body of the tea (pei ze di, 焙之蒂) 12) Final roasting stage III: sealing the fragrance Eastern Beauty has much (pei xiang wei, 焙香味) more shaking and tossing than other oolongs, which 13) Final sorting and packaging is one of the reasons it is the most oxidized of all oolongs. This process of turning/toss- ing the tea as it oxidizes is called “lan qing (浪青) .”

67/ Beauty of the Eastern Isle

Beyond the Organic World

茶人: Steve Kokker

e are about an hour out of little while. “He likes to do things and bushes, be wary of our footing, crazy-hectic central Tai- slowly, to take the time needed to do be careful not to walk into spider pei, Taiwan’s super-mod- them.” We wait patiently, drinking in webs the size of my torso, and keep Wern capital of Eight-million-plus. It the Nature around us. The constant, an eye out for snakes. The tea is in the couldn’t seem further. This is truly rhythmic sound of crickets sets the form of trees here, much taller than lush, thick Nature. We drive up a steep brain waves to alpha. One of us goes the meter to meter-and-a-half high and winding road through ever-smaller off looking for multi-colored caterpil- bushes most of the world’s tea plants villages and into ever-thickening forest lars. are artificially kept. There are palm- and sweet air. I’d like to imagine that I wasn’t expecting someone as sized, bright green frogs at first indis- the aroma comes from the tea trees I’ve young and lively as the handsome, tinguishable from the tea leaves on come to see, but I can’t be certain. affable man who eventually drives up which they placidly sit. God is indeed We get out of the car on a partic- to greet us. Mr. Gao has considerable the DJ here; the soundtrack is wall-to- ularly tricky turn of this road, which presence and seems to be deeply com- wall crickets interspersed with bird- has been carved through the forest fortable in his skin. He looks us over, song. and rock, and wait for Gao Ding Shi nods, smiles and suggests that my This is not really a garden, nor to arrive. I’d been told that he is a true thin sandals might be good for a day certainly is it a plantation. It is sim- proponent of a natural, wild tea farm- at the beach but not for where we’re ply a hilly area on which tea plants ing technique dubbed “shengtai,” or going. He opens his car and pulls out are growing wild, into trees, and from “arbor,” and that to meet him would a mud-lathered pair of thick rubber which Gao Ding Shi plucks and pro- be… an experience. boots, knee-high, and hands them to cesses his fine teas. There are Camellia Waiting, we look around us: there me. “I wouldn’t want a snake to snap sinensis here, certainly—everywhere— are enormous butterflies, baseball- at you.” but not only. Other types of foliage hat-sized marvelous beauties; there grow exuberantly. “Whatever belongs are small snakes disappearing as if This Is a Wild here is welcome,” says Mr. Gao with from nowhere into the shrubbery. a smile, “whatever wants to grow here, When standing in the sun, the heat His neighbors think his patches please grow!” is uncomfortable. Today is about 38 of land are ugly—unruly, unkempt, That philosophy doesn’t end with degrees Celsius. Again. In the shade bug-ridden… and not even producing foliage; there are worms and bugs that by the side of the road, however, the much tea at that; a waste of land. want to live here, too, and munch on air is suddenly cooler, and the sweet- We walk to the most accessible the tea plants, and to that Mr. Gao ened moisture from the trees pro- of his tea gardens; the others would says, “Please, let them come. If bees vides embracing umbrage. My guides be an hour’s uphill hike. We need to wish to make their hive in one of the explain that Mr. Gao might take a push through the thicket of leaves trees, beautiful! If the worms and bugs

69

高 Master Gao Ding Shi 定 石

are happy eating from the trees, let case of Dong Fang Mei Ren (Eastern ers advertising their teas (“the best,” them eat. I also wish to drink from Beauty), a famous Taiwanese oolong “the rarest”) outside their homes in the tree, why shouldn’t they?” tea. “In any case,” says Mr. Gao with a otherwise unobtrusive, bucolic vil- He bends close into the shrubbery, shrug and grin, “that bug eats only the lages. Those posters bespoke a desire turns up a few leaves and branches bud and first two leaves. That means to redo their homes, add another before finding what he wants to show he has good taste! And he helps me car to the newly-constructed garage, me. Turning over a leaf with one make delicious teas!” perhaps get an alarm system to go hand, he beckons me closer with the Indeed, bugs and the tea plant with the solid electric gates they had other. “Look at this.” At first I make have lived in symbiosis for millennia recently installed to protect their out nothing: large tea leaf with thick and tea has been humankind’s best assets. Nothing wrong, perhaps, with veins running along its underside. I friend all along. Before mass-produc- wanting to improve one’s lot, but this squint but still don’t see anything out tion came along, bugs were either not striving comes with consequences: of the ordinary… until his calm smile feared as much, or controlled using when we reorganize our priorities, the and focused gaze lead my eyes to one natural methods. In Mr. Gao’s case, structure of our lives changes accord- thin, unusual, vein-looking bulge, they are not such a problem that he ingly. If you’re a tea farmer, you might very slight, the thickness of a pin— can’t process his tea; there are plenty start to make compromises in how the home of a little bright green pin- of leaves left for him. But that leads us you make and produce your tea— worm. to another philosophical aspect of the you will want more—not necessarily Indeed, the tea plant is favored small-scale organic tea farmer, a mind- better, but more. And to get more, by many bugs, some of them seem- set more environmentally friendly you need to harm the soil and the tea ingly out of Star Trek. There’s another than any organic farming technique: plants (and ultimately yourself) by worm that lives inside the branches, enough. using fertilizers and pesticides. one that looks like a crawling piece When one is instead guided by of fluff, a kind of caterpillar that Enough the principle of “enough,” there are lives inside the vein of tea leaves, and also consequences. You live in more another worm which imitates the It’s a concept I came across several harmony and cooperation with your look of a small branch. There are even times on my recent journey to Taiwan surroundings and are not tempted tiny, scampering green bugs called in meeting small-scale tea farmers and to make compromises. Gao Ding jassids that are allowed to bite into their families: the desire to have just Shi produces approximately 40kg the leaves, as the chemicals produced enough, not more. of tea per year, a little more if the by the plant’s natural defense - Some of them lived right next to weather cooperates, sometimes much nism lends a uniquely sweet aftertaste other tea farmers with much larger less if it doesn’t. This is a laughably for us tea drinkers—that is the unique aspirations, who paraded garish post- minuscule amount in the tea market,

70 Taiwan Oolong where tons are the usual unit of mea- with great certainty that he does not surement. The tea he makes, however, want those other things. he makes with great pride, with great “To truly live the simple life,” he care, and with love. This transfers so tells me while steeping one of his teas evidently into the leaf, and the cup, for us to taste, a Baozhong he calls that his customers gladly pay the 50- “Wan Xiu,” “you must be ready to put euro per 50 grams he charges for it. down many things: money money This high price ensures that this money, name name name. In the end, tea, when purchased for individ- ‘I’ am nothing—that’s important to ual consumption, will be cherished, remember.” enjoyed fully, with confidence that Every small-scale organic tea it is an unblemished gift of Nature farmer I encountered who worked in delivered via caring human hands. collaboration with the Earth (versus It’s as close as the tea lover can get to forcing it to provide what he wanted the ancient tradition of Man-Nature from it) espoused the same philoso- interaction. phy—of living as simply as possible If a tea merchant buys this tea, he while remaining comfortable and or she can almost certainly never resell desiring only that which is needed. it for a profit, and so thoughts of gain On top of that, none want to endan- dissipate. Instead, the tea will likely ger their own health by living near be shared, and often for free with chemicals. good friends and/or valued customers. The focus here is on the Leaf, not the Running the Family coin—as it should be! In any case, when one buys tea If big profits are not his motiva- from someone like Mr. Gao, one is tion, what fuels Gao Ding Shi’s dedi- focused on supporting the principles cation to natural methods of tea farm- embodied before you—not only to ing? Indeed, Mr. Gao has great reason acquire superlative tea. It’s a vote of to be sensitive to this issue: personal confidence for a lifestyle and approach tragedy. to Nature all too rare in this age of Along with tens of thousands of “more.” other migrants from China’s Fujian Mr. Gao wishes only to have province, just 180km across the Tai- enough—to keep his children in wan Strait, his great-great-grandfa- This loss, and seeing his family school, to live comfortably, to con- ther arrived in these parts from Anxi, suffer from needless poisoning, left tinue this lifestyle for his family the mountainous county renowned huge emotional scars in Mr. Gao (his and himself. Selling all of his tea as the homeland of Tieguanyin, per- eyes well up quickly when speaking allows this, and even to accumu- haps the world’s most famous oolong of his beloved father) and served as late small savings. He could easily tea. These mountains reminded him the catalyst for major life—and busi- think, “Hmmm, if 40kg brings me of home. He had grown tea in Anxi, ness—changes. this much, if I were to just double it and so when they moved to Tai- “The tea trees are my brothers to 80kg, still not much, I could get wan looking for a better life, they and sisters,” he says, “members of my a better car and more satellite chan- grew tea there, with the clippings extended family. They have fed and nels and take extra trips…” How- they’d brought from the mainland. protected my own family for genera- ever, to achieve this, he’d have to do The family’s next generations con- tions and I wish to return the favor.” many other things: change the way he tinued growing tea; technology and works, hire new people, make struc- the commercial tea market changed tural changes to his very simple pro- alongside them. By the time his father And Then, the Rains cessing space; start using some form took over tea production, Taiwan was of pest control; think more of how to in an exportation boom and volume Gao Ding Shi’s tea processing market his teas, maybe develop a web was therefore highly valued. Pesti- house lies at the bottom of a wind- site and hire someone to run it for cides were commonplace, often cheap ing road cut through thick swaths of him… These would be lifestyle and ones banned already in the developed trees and has a terraced view overlook- philosophical changes he is not ready world. His father died young and ing valleys. One feels embraced by to make. He knows that the seed of painfully of cancer, and other mem- the mountains, a welcome visitor in desire sprouts double-edged swords bers of his family developed cancer their realm. The processing area itself as buds. It’s not possible to have one and crippling diseases which by all is really just a concrete house, half thing (lots more money, say) without appearances seemed directly related to of which is living space for his aging a lot of other things, and he knows living alongside chemicals. mother, who spends most of the day

71/ Beyond the Organic World The author with Master Tsai and Gao.

peeling vegetables, making food and stormy lasts but a few minutes. Soon, some tea, and chat. Somewhat unusu- sleeping while her son, other fam- relentless vertical curtains of water are ally, he steeps his green tea for four ily members and a few hired helpers falling across the outside landscape. minutes at 40C, water quite cool. “A carry on making tea. The morning harvest yielded five good tea is good at any temperature,” This is not what many readers bamboo baskets-full (each the width he says gently. He steeps and pours his might have in mind when thinking of outstretched arms) of tea leaves of tea calmly, slowly, one thing at a time. about a tea processing plant; this is the Qinxin Heimien cultivar and they A lovely peace falls over the place, real life. There are bugs and flies com- were left to wither in the sun outside. nestled as it is in the forest and now ing in and out of the open doors; the With the first drops of rain, though, caressed by the lulling sounds of rain- floors are far from spotless; a friendly Mr. Gao scurries to bring the baskets fall. dog wanders about; laundry hangs inside and place them on racks to Before the weather clears and it’s next to baskets of drying tea. In short, wither there. He planned on making time to say goodbye, we have the lux- nothing Better Homes and Gardens some Dong Fang Mei Ren from those ury of spending a few hours in Mr. would aim their cameras at. leaves, but this slight change of pro- Gao’s calm company. Even aside from Yet this is artisanal tea production, cedure makes it more appropriate to what I know of his commitment to not sterile factory tea production. make red tea from them. Man plans, Nature and Tea, I have the feeling of Life happens here, and in the best God laughs. And man needs to qui- being in the presence of a truly beau- sense, we can taste it in the tea. Mr. etly, humbly adapt. tiful soul, someone living in total flow Gao washes his sturdy hands, which I say “luckily” about the rain. and happy with the easy partnership are thick from hard work—barely Had the day remained clear and dry, he has with life. calloused despite the almost constant Mr. Gao would have been too busy “Tea has taught me humility, to work he does—yet as elegant as a cel- with his tea leaves to attend much to be humble towards Nature. When we list’s, and opens a pack of jiao tai, the us. Making Dong Fang Mei Ren takes want to smell tea leaves, we bow down green tea he produces. more time and effort than red tea, to them, we don’t keep our head held Luckily, it starts to rain. Heavily. foreign guests or none. But now he high.” The transformation from sunny day to had some time to sit with us, pour us

72 Taiwan Oolong Traditional Oolong 傳 統 Nowadays An Interview with Master Lu (呂禮臻), 烏 President of the Association for the 龍 Promotion of Chinese Tea Art 茶 茶人: Zhang Yun Ying (張芸瑛) 的 Translated by Lucas Ledbetter 歲 月 In January of 2015, we introduced you to Master Lu Li Zhen, who is one of Taiwan’s wisest and most important tea mas- 時 ters. We recommend that you re-read that article so that you 光 will have a context for just how relevant his commentary is, as he has literally affected every one one of us and our tea appreciation. He’s made tea history, in other words.

ver the years, Taiwanese tea The varietal, region and pro- insufficient sunshine, there are often has been deeply impacted duction method of a type of tea all problems with the fresh leaves during by society and history. At result in variations, and all influence withering. There isn’t enough mois- Othe beginning of 1971, vigorous tea the flavor of a tea. But the environ- ture removed and the tea’s raw flavor exports were diverted down more del- ment is the most important of the is often over-pronounced. Some tea icate domestic trade routes. Following three. Take Muzha Tieguanyin, for merchants attribute these raw flavors the elevation of the fragrance and fla- example: its environmental charac- to the alpine air, and pass such mis- vor of oolong, tea gained the affection teristics are a northerly latitude and information on to the consumer, but of more and more people. The num- an elevation of about 350 meters. this is misleading. ber of people drinking tea gradually Since it receives long periods of sun- From all this, we can see that there increased, but at that time, Dong Ding shine, the and tannin content is a difference between the actual oolong tea, also known as “traditional of the freshly-picked leaves is quite effects of the environment and pro- oolong tea,” received the most atten- high. The tea has a heavy quality on cessing of tea and the consumers’ tion in Taiwan. Traditional oolong tea the tongue, and the bitterness and knowledge of it, which wasn’t there in led the way to the highest domestic astringency are strong. However, gao the past, and that the teas produced peak in Taiwanese tea’s history. shan tea’s (high-mountain oolong) traditionally and nowadays themselves growing environment is greater than form the fault line between the two. 1000 meters above sea level. Atop Properties Derived from the mist-shrouded peaks, it often gets the Environment foggy in the afternoon. The duration Processing: The of sunshine is short, and the caffeine Missing Link A plant should be in accord with content of the fresh leaves is therefore the environment in which it grows, low. The leaves are juicier, highly aro- What we normally call “traditional as that determines the substances and matic, and the pectin content is high. oolong tea” refers to tea that is heavily subtle elements contained within the The tea’s bitterness is slight when oxidized during processing, for exam- tree and also leaves. Just as “terroir” brewed, and it has a pleasant sweet- ple, Muzha Tieguanyin or Dong Ding is stressed in red wine, so should the ness as well. The mountain environ- oolong teas. In earlier times, Dong climate, soil, weather, etc., determine ment gives the tea nourishment for Ding oolong tea was highly oxidized how to create a balanced tea. Fine tea growth, but is also its Achilles’ heel and roasted and is in relative contrast is always made in harmony. when it comes to processing. Due to to the “flavor” of present gao shan tea.

73 In 1971, the traditional oolong quite a few times and the roasting I think the key to high-quality tea produced by tea farms underwent period was fairly long. In the end, that tea lies in letting the nature of tea withering in the sunshine for oxida- tempered the varietal and environ- “reveal itself.” This doesn’t just refer tion. A preliminary roasting, shak- ment’s “aggressive” flavor, transform- to the degree of oxidation we’ve been ing, and other processes made the ing its shortcoming into its specialty. discussing, but to every phase of the tea highly oxidized; during rolling, it High-mountain oolong tea cur- production process. Traditionally, was pressed in cloth by hand or foot. rently undergoes light oxidation, oolong masters tried to avoid creating The tea took on a ball shape and was and most of the stages of processing tea with raw flavors. If you let oolong called “balled oolong.” In withering are done by machine. What’s more, reveal its potential, it won’t have a this tea, masters would wait until the some people believe that small farm- green tea or fresh-off-the-tree flavor, raw tea flavor had left the tea leaves, ers using traditional production tech- and as such, it will be more conducive and then perform the next step. The niques should be phased out and that to tea craftsmanship—in the process- process was adjusted in accordance large-scale mechanical tea production ing, roast and even brewing skills. with Nature, echoing changes in rain- methods should be adopted instead, Asides from letting the tea “reveal fall, temperature, humidity, etc. for example, factory-farm cooperation itself,” there is another key point, These complicated but reliable (small farmers don’t have to set up fac- which is the tea’s dryness. The mois- production skills lowered the mois- tories; they just provide maocha and ture content must be less than 5%. ture in the tea leaves to an appropriate the processing is done by large facto- When the tea liquor has a fresh- degree. Not only was the aroma stabi- ries). This method not only can save ly-picked, raw green flavor, that indi- lized in the process, but the mouth- on wages, but can mass-produce tea, cates that the tea leaves have a high feel, flavor and heartiness (body) were which is advantageous to the devel- moisture content, and the tea will be also greatly increased. Moreover, such opment of the tea industry, market, bitter when drunk (the surface of the teas were suitable to be drunk right and economy. However, when tea tongue will have a slight astringent away or stored for later. leaves are machine-processed, they do feeling), and it will not be suitable Let’s look at another example: Due not acquire natural flavors. Manufac- for aging. Processing an oolong the to the growing conditions and charac- tured tea is only mediocre and lacks way it wants to be processed, reveal- teristics of traditional Muzha Tieguan- any special characteristics. It cannot ing its true potential, and making sure yin, it is intrinsically rather bitter. be adapted to the varietal, climate or it is adequately dry will make a fine Thus, tea farms used a relatively high environment and lacks craftsmanship oolong that is pleasant to drink and degree of oxidation, the tea was rolled and character. worth aging for some years as well.

74 Taiwan Oolong Roasting Preserves the Aroma

The main reason that nowadays mouth, the sweetness instantly floods hand, has a very different attitude tea mostly undergoes light oxidation your whole mouth. There is a slight, towards tea. and is not thoroughly dried is that pleasant bitterness in the sweetness. This topic can’t be covered in so at present, the “aroma” of the tea Different levels and flavors dance few words. Based on my years of expe- is emphasized. There are crude teas upon the tongue in tingling sensa- rience, many people like Taiwanese and raw teas that have a very appar- tions, melting the body and mind. tea after coming into contact with it. ent aroma when smelled. One could Only vintage tea can offer such an I believe that with the right attitude, describe this type of fragrance as experience. It is like the qualities of Taiwanese tea can achieve another “charming.” the tea are fulfilled by the aging. And peak, maybe even higher than the pre- Then how to stabilize the aroma? that is an experience which light, raw vious one. Tea that hasn’t been sufficiently oxi- tea with only a pleasant fragrance can’t dized can be roasted directly after ever compete with. drying. The tea’s fragrance will change with the high roasting temperature and will be preserved layer by layer. Industry: ThingsA re No This changes the “evenness” in the Longer As They Were original aroma into “heartiness.” In other words, it reduces the shortcom- To date, along with changes in ings of the tea, decreases the acerbity, technology and the environment, peo- and increases its supple smoothness. ple’s demand for tea has also changed. Tea that has not been roasted can be The market has been influenced by likened to a gorgeous woman who is these changes. For example, because uncultured, left alone on an island: modern people drink tea with increas- she is beautiful, but not as beautiful as ingly light flavors, lightly oxidized she could be. Similarly, fine tea from a teas have gradually gained popularity, fine source and location is great, but it as have the newer cultivars, like Jing won’t reach its full potential as oolong shuan or Four Seasons Spring. without the roast. In addition, tea information is Thus, when a tea farmer roasts a basically controlled by tea merchants. tea over a long period, the aroma is When consumers don’t have access to transformed from an obvious, charm- objective information that can help ing flavor into a mellow and complex them develop discernment, it’s very poem, deeper and more profound. easy to feel that a certain tea suits you, Take Li Shan spring tea as an exam- and to then grow a preference for it— ple (like our Tea of the Month): it has after a while, you become accustomed a clear floral fragrance as raw tea, but to this type of flavor. (Magazines like after roasting, it is transformed and this can obviously help!) reveals a mellow floral and fruity fra- There are also many challenges in grance, which smells gentle and pleas- the sales of Taiwanese teas, such as ant. The tea then seems to cling to the that Taiwanese teas have a low profit mouth, adhering everywhere and lin- margin. Sometimes, without any gering on. This takes the experience to mark-up, even after twenty years, a an even higher level. tea is still sold at a comparable or even I think the true quality one experi- lower price as it was back then. These ences when drinking tea is more holis- issues are not guided by a reasonable tic than just a pleasant aroma. In the system, resulting in a chaotic market past, we often talked about a tea’s abil- and tea farmers who can’t earn a live- ity to “rhyme (cha yun, 茶韻).” In the lihood. old days, tea was produced “in con- Taiwanese tea’s specialty lies in its cordance with the Heavens,” and it high quality. If quantity is demanded, was good for aging as well as drinking. how do we preserve and maintain that I have some Taiwanese oolong tea quality? Traditional craftsmanship here from the year 1916. The depths pushed Taiwanese tea toward a peak of the tea liquor have a burgundy and offered people memorable flavors. translucence. After the tea enters the The modern market, on the other

75/ Traditional Oolong Nowadays

Taiwanese tea’s specialty lies in its high quality. If quan-

tity is demanded, how do we preserve and maintain “ that quality? Traditional craftsmanship pushed Taiwan- “ ese tea toward a peak and offered people memorable flavors. The modern market, on the other hand, has a very different attitude towards tea.

76 Teawayfarer Each month, we introduce one of the Global Tea Hut members to you in these magazines in order to help you get to know more people in this growing international community. It’s also to pay homage to the many manifestations that all this wonderful spirit and Tea are becoming as the Tea is drunk and becomes human. The energy of Tea fuels some great work in this world, and we are so honored to share glimpses of such beautiful people and their Tea. This month, we would like to introduce Caitlin Mercado.

he came to me (in her ceremonial form) almost three years ago in a warm desert tipi amongst women who had gathered from all over the world Sto connect in subtle, ancestral and spiritual ways. Inside this desert tipi sat our beloved tea sister Tian Wu, in service. The space was dressed with much aestheti- cism, a tangible representation of the reverence held for what was to occur. Why would something so simple be dressed so beautifully? We silently settled into our cush- ions gathered around the chaxi listening to the hum of the kettles. Tian served the liquor with so much trans- parency and ease, as if she too had evaporated with the steam from our bowls. We were completely mesmerized by the leaf and its company of beautiful accoutrements; all elements together as one to become the gift of plant medicine lovingly gazing back at you from a bowl. As we sipped bowl after bowl, you could feel a presence of serenity fill the tent. Some sat with smiles on their faces and eyes softly closed, others poised and stoic, and then some, like myself, with dewy tears on their cheeks. To witness Her becoming in that ceremony triggered something deep within the center of my being. A remem- brance as if I had been in that seat before... I left that tipi with a heart reaching for more. every person served, no matter their practice, is recep- After that first experience with Tea in this new and tive to Her meditative properties. We all experience this profound way, I joined Global Tea Hut eager to learn longing of connection to the Earth, to each other and more about all Her shapes and forms and how she’s to ourselves. And She stimulates this so well within us. touched others the way She touched me that early des- As time passed and I developed a more intimate practice ert morning. My first visit to the Tea Sage Hut came with Tea, I found Her as a deeply healing sister/mother/ in the months following. And I have been fortunate friend in whom I was able to take refuge in during life’s to have just spent a month at the Center with the tea worldly challenges. A space to be held in Her warm brothers who so lovingly surrender to serve and care for embrace. the Hut and its guests and generously share in the Tea When I was asked to be wayfarer, I was more than Way. Hugging them was easy. a bit nervous... How could I possibly put to words the Tea, as I’m sure it did for many of you, arrived at a gifts She has given me? And to do so with an eloquence fortuitous time for me. After an imperceptible slowing so worthy of Her beauty? Many have already done so in my yoga practice and experiencing realizations about long before me. But I suppose the only true way to my intentions behind “practice,” I think I had been know is to sit and let the leaves show you. Just as Her consciously/subconsciously seeking a new path. And leaves open to unfurl within the earthenware, let that what was this? Tea as the most beautiful conduit for happen within yourself. Let Her sweep you off your meditation. Of the earth and for the earth. Tea began to feet. fill all spaces in which I would normally be mindless... I I am currently in San Diego but will travel for tea! If wanted to know Her more, connect more deeply with you ever find yourself in Southern California, I would her and by doing so connect more deeply with the earth love to meet any fellow tea brothers and sisters. May all beneath my feet. What I love most about tea is how cups be filled with the leaves of loving kindness!

77 Teawayfarer Inside the Hut Because of the large number of tea sessions happening around the world, we are going to post about them on our website from now on and use this section to discuss news happening around the world. If you have any news, like a wedding, birth or tea happening, let us know and we’ll write about it here. Also, our new website coming in the next few months will connect you to tea sessions around the world in a much better way than this page ever could!

The 2016 Light Meets Life Fundraiser is now in Wu De will be facilitating a six-day retreat in full swing, and all our 2016 teas are in. Check the site the Spanish Pyrenees. It will be a Zen & Tea One Fla- today to get some amazing tea and support the build- vor retreat focusing on the connection between med- ing of Light Meets Life. Also, we are transparent, so feel itation and tea. Participants will gather fresh spring free to ask about our costs and your contributions. water, meditate a few hours a day, learn chanting and have tea as well as Zen discourses throughout. It will be a rare chance to deepen your practice and learn tea We have a new page for Wu De’s teaching events at the same time. And, if that wasn't enough, it is be- ing held at a gorgeous venue in the mountains of rural around the world. Many of you are always asking for th th updates, so we thought it was about time to share them: Spain. This event will run from October 8 to 14 . If http://www.globalteahut.org/wudeteachings. you are interested in attending, please check out the website: www.casacuadrau.org. Wu De will also be traveling in Germany and the Czech Republic after the retreat, sharing tea and We have started broadcasting live videos at the teaching Cha Dao. Events are already posted! beginning of every month on our Facebook page. This is a great way to connect with us, learn together and ask any and all questions. Check it out!

The October issue is going to be all about Ele- Center News vation, which was a kind of initiation for so many of Before you visit, check out the Center’s us sitting for tea together here. We are asking the com- website (www.teasagehut.org) to read about the munity to submit Elevation stories and photography. schedule, food, what you should bring, etc. We’ve Chosen submissions will get free tea! had a big increase in our number of guests lately, so if possible, please contact us well in advance to arrange a visit. We are giving away two cakes of Ambrosia each month until the end of the year. All you have to do to We are looking for help with farming, pho- be eligible is take a picture of yourself serving Global tography, video and web design. If any of you Tea Hut tea and post it on Instagram with the hashtag have experience in these things and are inter- #servingglobalteahut. We have already given the first ested in staying at the Center to learn Cha Dao, few away! Don’t miss the chance! with free room and board, contact us!

We have started gathering money towards offering one annual scholarship to fly someone September Affirmation to the Center each year. Once we have enough, I honor my inadequacies. we will let the community nominate candidates. Let us know if you want to contribute to help Can I see that the vision of my character defects make this happen! and inadequacies is a gift? Without guilt, can I take a moral inventory, recognizing that the mind We have started a daily inspirational video that sees the mistakes is not the mind that made series, where we will share small clips of joy in them? Diagnosis is the beginning of all healing. the life of the Tea Sage Hut!

福 爾 摩 沙 島

www.globalteahut.org GL BAL TEA HUT Tea & Tao Magazine The best Tea magazine in the world! Sharing rare organic teas, a magazine full of tea history, lore, translations, processing techniques and heritage, as well as the spiritual aspects of Cha Dao. And through it all we make friends with fellow tea lovers from around the world.