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Master Xie Yuan Zai (謝元在)

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Master Xie Yuan Zai (謝元在) of the ver the course of this issue, ous reasons are the thick, juicy leaves to a particular terroir. Farmers were we are going to explore diet, of this varietal, as well as its strong and learning, honing their skills through 茶 food and some of the Cen- powerful flavor and aroma, and the some trial and error, as well as a deep Oter’s food philosophy as well as recipes. patience of this tea—one of the lon- connection to a life of tea, trying to To accompany such a culinary explo- gest-lasting teas there are. The vibrancy process their local varietals in a way that ration, we need a delicious tea—one of the tree, the processed leaves and the would highlight their greatest qualities that excites us in fragrance and aroma, liquor suit the name, in other words. and fulfill the tea’s potential. It would bringing delicious cups to the table The first waves of immigration not be correct to say that oolong, for along with all the food we’re going from the Mainland to Taiwan were example, is just a method of processing to be cooking. For that, we decided from Fujian, and the colonists quickly tea, because that processing was ad- on one of our favorite types of tea, recognized that Taiwan had the per- vanced to suit certain varietals of tea. Tieguanyin. fect terroir for tea production. They And as varietals have changed, moving Tieguanyin originally comes from began bringing seeds over to start tea from place to place (whether natural- Anxi, in southern Fujian. Like all production, encouraged by the West- ly or carried by people), so too have oolong, it began in the Qing Dynasty ern market, which was looking to ex- processing skills adapted and changed, (1644–1911). Oolong tea processing pand. Anxi Tieguanyin varietals and creating a whole array of different teas. evolved in Wuyi, in northern Fuji- processing were brought to Muzha in Nowadays, there is a lot of experi- an, and slowly spread south to other northern Taiwan, where they continue mentation. Farmers process teas from tea-growing regions, like Anxi. Though today. Ball-shaped Tieguanyin oolong- one region in the way that they are oolong tea began in the Qing Dynasty, style processing then moved from Mu- made elsewhere. This trend is due to tea farming in Anxi is ancient. There zha to central Taiwan, where it slowly faster communication, more access to are many wild trees there, and one that adapted to suit the varietals, leaves and information and a greater connection is over a thousand years old, with a terroir of Taiwan. As oolong produc- to the rest of the tea world. And some six-meter crown shining beneath the tion in Taiwan grew into its own ma- of this innovation is great. Some new sky as testament to the history and turity, the processing became more and teas sparkle with spirit and feel like heritage of Anxi tea. more unique, which brings us to an they were made with the insight that The most renowned Qing emperor important point worth reviewing. has always pushed any art forward. Qianlong (1711–1799) was a great tea Many authors, especially in En- Others are created out of marketing— lover. He loved Tieguanyin and is said glish, write that “all tea is Camellia to make cheap and inferior copies of to have been responsible for spreading sinensis and that the differences in teas the much better original. In other its acclaim throughout the empire, are all in the processing.” This is very words, the new experiments do occa- and also for naming it. According to misleading. First of all, as we have dis- sionally result in amazing teas, but the legend, Tieguanyin was discovered by cussed often, many species of Camellia majority of such teas don’t turn out a contemporary farmer named Wei are used to make tea, though Camellia well. A Taiwanese tea processed like a Yin (魏飲, ca. 1700–1775), and was sinensis is certainly the most popular. Wuyi cliff tea might be a nice tea in its originally called “Wei Yin Tea” until It is also important to remember that own right, but it will never compare to the emperor renamed it. In the coming processing methods developed over a real cliff tea, at least not by cliff tea pages, we will share the legend of how time in response to certain varietals of standards, and a connoisseur of cliff tea Tieguanyin got its name, but the obvi- tea, which in turn evolved in response will always be able to tell them apart. 3 Tieguanyin Mingjian, Nantou, Taiwan 2017 Traditional Oolong 烏傳 統 Taiwanese 龍 ~500 Meters Tea of the Month Tieguanyin Processing Unlike most other kinds of tea, usually short, and depends on the sun. The oxidation process is then ar- Tieguanyin is best picked at noon, The indoor withering also lasts longer rested by firing. (This is technically not rather than early in the morning. The than other kinds of oolong and can true as oxidation will continue in the strong leaves of this hearty varietal take as long as fifteen to even twen- tea indefinitely, which is what happens thrive in the sun. The leaves are thick ty-four hours. when you age an oolong tea, but it and strong. Like all oolong teas, the The most defining step in all oolong does slow to such a molasses drip that best method is to pick one bud and production happens during the indoor we can, for all practical purposes, say two leaves in sets, though most farmers withering, as the leaves are shaken ev- that it is halted.) The firing of oolong is nowadays pick larger sets to increase ery hour or so to bruise the edges of done in large metal woks, traditionally yield. the leaves. This breaks the cells down, heated from underneath using a wood- Traditional oolong production is oxidizes the edges more and makes the fire stove. The duration of the firing semi-oxidized, usually between 40% tea more flavorful. The best oolong depends on the moisture content in and 70%, with some outliers like leaves will have a red rim around the the leaves. Eastern Beauty, which has heavier edges after brewing, but this can only Immediately after the firing, the tea oxidation. All of the processing steps really be achieved when the processing is rolled. Tieguanyin is a ball-shaped in Tieguanyin take into account the is done by hand. Most oolong nowa- oolong, which means it is rolled in a thicker, tougher leaves of this varietal, days is shaken in large tumblers, which twisted-up cloth bag. Traditionally, which furthers the argument we just do not bruise the leaves so perfectly or this was done with the feet, though discussed that processing techniques uniformly, and rarely just on the edges. nowadays the ball-shaped bag is rolled evolve to suit certain varietals. This The withering and shaking will con- over metal ridges by a machine that starts with the withering, which is usu- tinue until the farmer is satisfied with presses the bag down and spins it in a ally piled more deeply than other types the aroma of the tea leaves, which are circle. This vigorous rolling is yet an- of oolong. The outdoor withering is checked regularly. other example of the ways in which 5/ Tieguanyin (鐵觀音) 鐵觀音從葉子到杯子 The Processing of Tieguanyin from Tree to Cup Plucking Roasting (hong pei, 烘培) 鐵烏 Withering (indoors and outdoors) 龍 Re-Roasting 誕 生 Shaking 觀 Sorting (lan qing, 浪青) (fan ji, 分級) Firing 音 Packaging (sha qing, 殺青) 雲 Rolling/Shaping 中 Preparation (ro nian, 揉捻) 翱工 翔 Roasting Dry Cloud-Soaring (zhou shui bei, 走水焙) 藝 (yun teng, 雲騰) processing techniques have evolved to the traditional processing of oolong as issue of what traditional processing is suit certain kinds of tea. The rolling of a glass in which the oxidation and roast and the changes in oolong production tea is to break down the cells and bring work together to fill it up, starting in Taiwan. the juices to the surface for brewing. with the fact that such oolongs were It also shapes the tea. Tieguanyin is, oxidized 40–70%. In other words, of course, the first ball-shaped oolong. an oolong oxidized to 40% has more Traditional Oolong The thickness of the leaves means room for roast, whereas one oxidized to that the striped-oolong-rolling, across 70% has less roast. (This doesn’t apply Processing in Taiwan ridged bamboo trays, like the first-ever to modern, lightly-oxidized oolongs, oolong, which is Wuyi cliff tea, would which are fragrant, light and floral, and In the 1970s, everything was not be strong enough to break the cells a heavy roast would therefore just burn “Made in Taiwan” the way it is in Chi- of Tieguanyin leaves down. Also, the them.) Back in the day, farmers would na today. This industry brought pros- shape wouldn’t hold, since the leaves often send maocha (unfinished, rough perity to Taiwan. As Emperor Huizong are so tough. A more rigorous rolling tea) to shops who would roast it to said in the Treatise on Tea we published was required. Rolling cliff tea in a bag their customers’ tastes. Roasting skills in April 2017, it is only when the land like that would damage the more deli- are often very secret, passed down from is prosperous and peaceful that people cate leaves used to make yancha. father to son and held as dear as great can pursue art and culture like tea.
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