The ACM India Studies Student Handbook is created to make preparing for and living in India easier. It is revised each year to include more current information and contains information on various logistical procedures you will undergo for your trip. We've tried to answer some of the more common questions here, such as what to pack, how to call home, and good The italicized quotes in some sections are restaurants in Pune, but we do not claim to be comments and advice from past participants. comprehensive. The information you learn from exploring Pune by yourself will supplement and possibly supersede what you read here. But do take the time to read this handbook carefully and take it with you to Pune.

After your experience in India, please let us know if you have any suggestions for this handbook – particularly if any of the information is outdated – so we can improve the handbook for next year's group.

1 Before You Go

Pune sits about 190 kilometers from Mumbai (also referred to as Bombay) on the Deccan Plateau. The plateau accounts for Pune's temperate climate. The three-month rainy season may have already started when you arrive in July. While the monsoon often turns Mumbai into a murky mess, Pune's rains are not as heavy. You can expect rain daily, but typically it only pours for a short period before you can go out comfortably. The rains tend to taper off around September. October is generally hot, but the heat eases by November, when the nights will grow cool and you will probably need extra blankets!

Pune's population, including the Cantonment area, is about 3,000,000. As you know, the local language is Marathi, but English is spoken by many people. Do not be surprised if people practice their English language skills on you. Hindi is also widely understood. Often when you speak to rickshaw drivers, vegetable vendors and waiters in Marathi, they will answer you in Hindi. Nevertheless, you will find that your knowledge of Marathi will be a wonderful asset, bringing you closer to the local culture and further authenticating your experience in India.

Staff in Pune

The American Coordinating Representative (CR) varies from year to year and is a professor from an ACM college who has traditionally been an advisor to the program. Cathy Benton will serve as the Coordinating Representative for the 2008 ACM India Studies Program. She has taught classes in Asian Religious Traditions and Literatures at Lake Forest College, just outside of Chicago, for 21 years. 2008 will be her third time directing the ACM India Program in Pune. Her research interests include Asian religious story literature, firsthand accounts of religious practices, and the values and communications styles of different cultures. Cathy‘s first work experience in India was as a Field Officer for UNICEF, based in Madras, now Chennai, but since that time she has spent time in different regions of India, directing study abroad programs, doing research, and recruiting international students to study in the U.S. She has worked in Switzerland, Turkey, Bangladesh, and China – and she loves all forms of dance.

The CR arrives in early July and only stays with the program through the initial program orientation. In addition to working with other program staff, the CR also consults with students about their independent study project, and assists with everyday student life matters.

The Field Director in Pune is Suneeta Nene, who has been with the program since 1998. As the primary administrative officer, Suneeta coordinates the academic program and field trips, and helps students with official paperwork

Shrikant Paranjpe, who is the Head of the Department of Defence and Strategic Studies at Pune University, and Vidyut Bhagwat, who is the Head of the Women‘s Studies Program at Pune University, serve as Project Advisors, and they work with Suneeta, the ACM Coordinator, and the ACM students to set up project guides for the students.

2 Seema Gunjal serves as the Program Secretary who handles correspondence, the phone, and many arrangements for students. She works very closely with the host families and advises the families about what to expect from American students.

During the program‘s session, Anjali Bhagwat works in the Pune office to help the students adjust to living with their host families as well as adjust to the larger Pune environment. Anjali also helps the students with their travel plans and arranges different extracurricular activities.

Tukharam Ghute and Subhan Sayyed also work in the ACM Pune office, running errands and helping with the office maintenance.

ACADEMIC PREPARATIONS

Suggested Preparations

Self-preparation is the most beneficial aspect of pre-program preparation. Each student has different interests and levels of international experience. It is always a good idea to gain an understanding of the country‘s historical background. However, you should also research other cultural aspects that are of particular interest to you, which will give you more independence and confidence in your experience abroad. Your college library is a good place to find interesting books on Indian arts, politics, gender issues, and many other subjects. This will also prepare you for choosing a topic for your independent study project.

The web is an obvious place to turn for current news and events from India. Traditional periodicals in your school‘s library can also give you current information. The following are web sites you may find useful:

News and weather: www.webIndia123.com Culture: www.punelifestyle.com A Description of Pune during Ganapati Festival: www.rootsworld.com/rw/feature/pune.html Funky Travel/Culture Discussion: www.indiamike.com History and Tourism: www.world66.com/asia/southasia/india/maharashtra/pune Marathi Language Guide: www.marathimitra.com Also check out the Marathi Online Web Project. See the appendix for directions on how to launch this website.

Possibly the most valuable resource you have for self-preparation is other people who have been to this area of the world before. Talking with people about their experiences can reveal much more about what to expect than book knowledge. You may want to start with your Off-Campus Studies Director or Program Advisor, alumni of the program, Asian Studies Departments, or professors of Indian or international subjects. You will find it well worth your effort, and you may be surprised how excited people will be to share their experiences with you.

The best place to start your research is by purchasing a travel guide. It will also be a good resource for you while you are in India.

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Here are two of the travel guides that are most recommended by past India Studies participants.

● Abram, David, Nick Edwards, Devdan Sen, Mike Ford and Beth Wooldridge. The Rough Guide to India. 6th Edition. Rough Guide Travel Guides: November 2005. ISBN: 1843535017 ● Singh, Sarina. Lonely Planet India. 12th Edition. Lonely Planet Publications: September 2007. ISBN: 978-1741043082

Required Readings

Before arriving in India, your assignment is to read two – very enjoyable – books. The first book on the list, a novel about an Indian family, is required reading for the entire group. The second book, you and 3 classmates will read and present to the group for discussion. During July and August, in Pune, the group will get together for an informal tea and discuss what we are learning from these writers. All of the texts are available on amazon.com and through the numerous used book dealers on the web.

Required for the group: Rohinton Mistry, Family Matters

Group #1 Dharma’s Daughters

Group #2: Love and Longing in Bombay: Stories

Group #3: Mirrorwork

Suggested novel: Salman Rushdie, Midnight’s Children

Administrative Arrangements

Tuition & Refunds To save yourself long-distance communications hassles, you should check with the appropriate offices on your home campus (business, registrar, off-campus studies office) before you leave to be sure they know of your plans. Your tuition for the India program should be paid directly to your home campus business office before your departure so that the money can be forwarded to the ACM office to cover the educational expenses of the program. Tuition refunds will be based on the policy and schedule in effect on your home campus.

Program Fees The remainder of the program fee (minus the $400 deposit paid to ACM) should also be paid directly to your home campus before you leave. No part of the program fee already expended on your behalf will be refunded should you withdraw from the program. Students from non-ACM colleges will have different billing arrangements, but remember that all fees are still due prior to the first day of the program. Please note that you will be liable for any damage to hostel, hotel, or dorm rooms during your time on the program, and ACM is not responsible for any excess costs incurred for such behavior.

4 * If you are on financial aid and receive student loan checks that need your signature, consult your financial aid officer or bursar about making alternative arrangements. Under no circumstance should loan checks be sent by postal service or express courier to India. The checks may be lost or stolen.

Grades & Credits It is your responsibility to consult with your college registrar about grading, credit arrangements, and registration policies for off-campus studies. Check with your registrar about registration for the spring semester following your return so your academic progress is not impeded by the overseas program. Either register before you leave or arrange to have your registration materials sent to you at the program site. Give the registrar the address in India and remind him or her that everything should be sent by air mail to ensure reasonably prompt delivery.

During the first week of the program, you will be asked to indicate whether you wish to have letter grades recorded on your transcript or to use the pass/no pass option if it is permitted by your college. The grade choice form briefly describes the rules for each ACM college on the reverse side, but it would be a good idea to check on the rules ahead of time if you need to be certain how the courses will appear on your college record. Once the grade choice form has been submitted, you will not be allowed to make changes, so make sure you are clear on policies for awarding credit and for major and other requirements at your college.

In February or early March, grade recommendation forms will be sent to your college registrar, and the academic credits will be converted to your college's credit system. If there are any outstanding financial obligations due for your participation in the program, your grades will be held at the ACM office until all accounts are clear.

If you are not an ACM student, you should make the necessary arrangements in advance with your own college registrar.

WHAT TO BRING

Past program participants have found these items to be either necessary or convenient to take to India. One person's necessity is another's luxury, so use your own judgment, and consider these items in light of your own needs. If you have any questions, consult with the ACM office for clarification.

Luggage

While packing, keep in mind that you will leave India with more than you brought, and that airline luggage restrictions can be strict. To and from Mumbai, the airline will allow you a maximum of two checked bags and one carry-on. You should also keep in mind that you will transport your luggage several times while in India and that a large suitcase with little wheels is not a good choice for crowded streets. Some students have recommended traveling with one traditional suitcase and a duffle bag or other loose floppy piece of luggage. When you pack your bags, include your name and the program address inside each bag in case it gets lost.

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A word to the wise: put your essential documents, all your money, a few health care and toiletry items, prescription medication, corrective lenses and a change of clothes in your carry- on. Most lost luggage is found again, but you do not want to arrive in Pune with no clothing, no toothbrush, no Advil and a stress-induced headache. It is also a good idea to put valuables such as cameras and ipods in your carry-on luggage.

Essential Documents

Passport and visa Traveler's checks, credit card, money Passport purse or money belt Health insurance claim forms World Health Organization (WHO) card, or a wallet-sized record of your travel vaccinations, allergies, and blood type

Academic

Bring any academic material you know that you will need for your project, especially books published recently in the U.S. Certain books may be difficult to obtain in India. Depending on your research, a tape recorder, photographic equipment, or other supplies may be useful. Paper, pens, notebooks, etc. are all available, though you may want to bring some of your own since the quality and style of these supplies in India are quite different.

Computers

Many students are accustomed to working on computers or using audio-visual equipment provided by their colleges. Unfortunately, ACM cannot provide those technological resources. No e-mail access will be provided by the program. There are, however, numerous internet cafes—a misleading title because they usually don‘t serve anything at all—where you can go to email and do some work. These internet cafes can range from the luxurious to the very, very basic, but there are a great variety all over the city. Previous students have recommended bringing along flash drives. As with internet cafes in any country, you should take precaution to make sure your flash drives do not get infected with a virus—these can then infect the next computer you use.

Limited computer access will be available for typing papers at the India Studies office. Those who prefer to have their papers typed professionally will receive limited reimbursement. Students have been able to rent computers (for around INR 2,500-3,000 = $57-69/ month) during the final stages of their projects. Laptops are not available on a rental basis. If you want to bring a laptop computer, make sure to bring all necessary cords, adapter, converter and printer cable. Your laptop computer will probably have its own surge protector, but you need to double check to be sure. Also it is best to have a floppy drive on your laptop. It would be helpful to talk with a knowledgeable person about traveling with your computer and protecting it from the climate and power fluctuations. Pune will be hot at times, and you will not have air conditioning. You should also register the computer with U.S. customs before you leave and Indian customs when

6 you arrive. Make sure you fill out a re-export form. IBM compatibles can be used with the Pune office printer. Macs can be printed at a computer place on Bhandarkar Road for Rs. 10 per page.

Clothing

Clothing is more complicated when you are in a new and varied culture. It's a good idea to bring a dress outfit as you will have occasion to dress up, but you won‘t need a tie or nylons. You may find that you are more comfortable in India wearing clothing that is more modest than you would typically wear in America. This can be a delicate balance—female students have explained that many women wear sleeveless blouses, but tank tops with spaghetti straps would be inappropriate.

Bring cool and comfortable clothes. Indian “Students should be told to bring what they detergents and washing methods are hard on are most comfortable with at home as long as it's clothes; elastic will stretch and colors will not revealing... T-shirts and jeans are great.” fade, so don't bring anything that you would hate to see destroyed by vigorous hand washing. Good cotton and permanent press wash up nicely. Cotton clothes are cool and dry quickly, but they are not as sturdy or wrinkle-proof. Poly-cotton blends are the best. Some students have recommended linen garments. It is also recommended to pack some warmer clothes to wear during the travel break and during the monsoon season, which can be cold and damp. Past students have asked us to emphasize that jeans are okay! Some students buy and wear Indian clothes once they get to India to make them feel less conspicuous and less like American tourists. Indian clothes are also much more practical in rural settings or while traveling. Past students, however, remark that many Indian college-age students wear western clothes.

With all of this in mind, DON'T OVER PACK. The old adage about packing everything and then getting rid of half of it is probably good advice.

Suggested Packing List for Clothing

This list contains recommendations from past participants on what to bring. It is not meant to be a required packing list. Bring what you are sure to wear and will feel comfortable in.

T-shirts (but not tight fitting for females) Jeans Shorts for the beach or hiking. Both men and women will draw stares if they wear them on the streets in Pune. Something waterproof is essential. The monsoon rains in Pune have been getting heavier, so you really might want to get something sturdy! A waterproof jacket with a hood or a plastic rain poncho is more practical than an umbrella. Some clothes for cool weather, especially a sweater. Hat to protect you from the sun.

7 A good pair of walking shoes or sandals that will be good for all kinds of weather. Past students have told stories of walking through ankle deep water, so waterproof shoes would be ideal. Past students have also recommended Chaco or Teva sandals. Sneakers or walking shoes are necessary if you plan to walk in the nearby hills. Bathing suit, swim cap. For women, there are some areas in India where you can comfortably wear a two-piece, such as Goa, but there are other areas where that would not be appropriate. Unrevealing nightgown, pajamas, or robe, below the knees, but short sleeves are okay. Cotton underwear and socks. Depending on how traditional the family is, women are expected to hand-wash their underwear daily so you do not need to bring too many pairs. For women, short & long sleeved blouses, long and loose shirts, skirts on the long side, comfortable pants. Tight fitting clothes should be avoided, but you don‘t need to wear a sack cloth! For men, short sleeve shirts, comfortable pants, poly/cotton dress shirts.

ETC., For an Easier Trip

These items will be useful for you during those first few days when you don‘t really know what to do with your free moments. You might want to bring a reminder of home, a favorite novel, or game to pass the time alone or with others. Additionally, certain items will make your life and work easier in India.

Useful items for life in India

All of the following items can be purchased in India, or you can bring them along with you. Of everything that we ask students to bring, last year‘s group said that one item was most helpful to bring along from home: Ziploc Bags!

Appointment book Water bottle Watch Knapsack or day pack for short trips Travel alarm Extra duffle bag for presents Pocket knife with bottle opener Lock for baggage Small flashlight Ziploc bags in various sizes Extra batteries

Comforts and entertainment

Optional: Leisure books or novels (because English is so widely spoken you will find a good variety of English language books, many of which would not be available at home) Games/cards Favorite candy, food, etc. Photos of friends and family or other reminders of home (your host family will enjoy seeing pictures of your family)

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Required: Towels (Hint: if you want to reduce your luggage at the end of the program, bring old towels that you can discard when you leave) Loofah Slippers (for homestay) For women: American tampons

Personal Health Travel Kit

You may not use many of these items as a matter of course in the U.S., but a few might be helpful in controlling minor ailments as you adjust to different living conditions. If you rarely use antihistamines but are concerned about the pollution in Pune, just bring a sample size. Also remember you will be able to locate similar medications in India when you are familiar with the local chemists, so use your judgment. “Most medications are available here – headache medicine, antacids - don't bring If you bring prescription or over-the-counter much." medicines, be sure to keep them in their original containers, and bring the prescriptions along too. Carry all prescription medications in your carry-on luggage so that there is no danger of it getting lost. This will prevent hassles at customs and enable you to refill the prescription. Disposable syringes are available in India, but you might want to bring your own to be safe.

Don’t Forget

Prescription medications Sunscreen, minimum SPF 15 Anti-malaria medication Tweezers, small knife, scissors Corrective lenses with prescription Anti-bacterial soap like dial A small medicine kit with a few basic Water filtration or water treatment items such as band-aids, antibiotic supplies (bottled water is available and is cream, advil or tylenol, antihistamine, a good option) antacids, etc... Insect and/or mosquito repellent

Toiletry Items

Most toiletry items are available in India, so you do not need to bring a 6-month supply of everything. If you have strong brand loyalties, you may want to bring extras in case the specific brand is not available. However, more and more American and Western products are readily available in Pune. A small manicure set–with tweezers, nail clippers and scissors–and a small sewing kit will be useful, but make sure to pack this in your checked luggage as it can be confiscated by airport authorities.

9 Travel Passports & Visas

You will, of course, need a valid passport. Make sure that your passport is valid for several months after your scheduled return to the United States. If it expires before April 2009, you should get a renewed passport immediately.

The ACM office will acquire a student visa for you from the Consulate General of India located in Chicago. In order to do this, ACM will need your passport (by June 1) and visa application to submit it for processing. We will then obtain your visa and return your passport to you at the airport just before you leave for Pune. If you use your passport as a primary means of identification, be aware that you may not have access to it for more than a month. When your passport is returned, the visa will be marked on the interior pages as a large stamp.

For more information about immigration requirements as well as travel warnings and consular information sheets, contact the Bureau of Consular Affairs. (See Appendix)

Passport Security

Do not pack your passport in your checked luggage since you will need to show it several times while in transit. Always know where your important documents are—be sure to carry them!

Photocopy your passport (the page with the number and the place and date of issue) and carry it separately from your passport. Also bring a few extra photos and a copy of your birth certificate. In case of a lost passport, these items will be necessary, and having any of these items sent from home can cause a significant delay. You will be responsible for any expenses incurred in case of loss of your passport.

Especially while you are traveling, it would be safest to keep your passport separate from your wallet in a money belt or other concealed carrier. That way, if you should lose your wallet, you won't have lost your passport as well. This is useful advice both for traveling to India and for travel within the country. While India is a safe country, pickpockets are becoming more common with the increase in tourism, and international airports are always popular spots for thieves.

GETTING TO THE PROGRAM

Group Flight Arrangements

All participants are required to take the group flight. This year your flight is through Continental. The flight leaves from Chicago and has a connecting flight in Newark. All travel arrangements are handled by Oswald and Associates, Inc. You should have already received

10 detailed information about the departure arrangements, return flights, and travel restrictions directly from Georgia Oswald, our travel agent. Please contact Georgia Oswald or ACM if you have any questions.

ACM will purchase the tickets from Oswald & Associates, and they will mail the tickets to your home address over the summer. You will receive both your ticket to India and your return ticket for your flight back to the States. NEVER throw away any portion of your ticket. Guard your ticket as you would cash. If you lose your ticket, and someone else manages to use or redeem it, you will have to pay for a new ticket.

Continental Airlines will allow you to check two bags at no charge. Each piece can weigh no more than 50 pounds and measure no more than 62 linear inches ( one length + one width + one height). You can also bring one carry-on bag not to exceed 40 pounds and 45‖ in total dimensions along with one personal item, such as a purse or laptop computer. You will incur an excess baggage charge for any additional checked luggage, or luggage that exceeds the size and/or weight limits noted above. Any excess baggage charges are payable directly to Continental Airlines on check-in. Also keep in mind that if you are taking a domestic flight to Chicago, most domestic airlines now allow checked luggage up to 50 pounds without additional charges.

Getting through Customs You may or may not be asked to declare your electronic equipment at airport customs. Cameras, laptop computers, tape players, etc. are all things that may have to be declared. If you are carrying more than $1000, you must declare that as well. As a general rule, ACM students simply state that they have nothing to declare. Keep in mind that airports and customs around the world are always changing their rules, so you will want to pay attention. ACM students have generally been lucky with the customs people, but there's always a chance that customs will want to look through your things. Surprisingly, entering India is a lot easier for foreigners than it is for Indians.

Arrival in India When you land in Mumbai late at night, you will be met by the ACM Pune staff and the ACM Coordinating Representative at the airport. For security reasons, the staff will not be able to enter the airport. You will be given a 10 rupee note at the Chicago orientation to tip the bathroom attendant if you need to use the facilities in the airport. You will collect your bags and go through customs, and they will meet you outside. The staff will have signs and they will probably be able to match you face to your name, because of the passport pictures that were sent in advance! The group will then be transported by a private charter bus to Pune overnight, arriving there in the early morning hours.

You will spend the first two weeks of the orientation period in a local hotel close to the Pune program office. This allows you to get to know the other students on the program before everyone is dispersed throughout the city to live with his or her host family. Living in one location at the start of the program also gives you some time to acclimate to the traffic, the rickshaws, and the cultural shifts that will occur upon your arrival in India.

11 Registration with the Police

When you arrive in India with a student visa and plan to stay for more than three months, you will need to register at the Foreigner's Registration Office within seven days of arrival. Someone from the Pune office accompanies the entire group to the Foreigner‘s Registration Department of the Police Commissioner‘s Office. Their hours are 10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. (See Appendix)

You will need to bring the following to the Foreigner‘s Registration Office (the last three items will be at the Pune office):

Passport 6 passport photos 4 copies of the prescribed application form 3 copies of a document stating your affiliation to the Tilak Maharashtra Vidyapeeth

A general rule of thumb when dealing with the Foreign Registration Office is to dress neatly and conservatively and to speak as much Marathi as possible. This will help you get better service. The Foreigner's Registration Office will take all these materials and tell you to come back in a week or so. You will need to fill out the treasury chalans tendering Rs. 50 as the registration fee. Once you get your police registration papers, make two copies, one for you to put with the copy of your passport, and one to keep in the Pune office.

Registration with the American Consulate

The Pune office will also register you with the American Consulate in Mumbai (See Appendix).

TRAVEL IN AND AROUND PUNE

You have several transportation options in Pune. You can walk, take the bus, or take a rickshaw. Owning or operating a motorized vehicle is absolutely prohibited. At first glance Pune traffic can be quite frightening. Not only do people drive on the left side of the road, but also the sheer volume and variety of traffic getting from one place to another is challenging, exciting, and potentially dangerous. Past students have described traffic as ―insane,‖ but they also have found that there is a pattern to it. Their best advice: look left, right, up and down before crossing the street.

Rickshaw

Rickshaws are virtually everywhere in Pune. They look like covered scooters and take three people. This is the most popular way for students to get around. Before taking a rickshaw in Pune, you should be sure to talk to the India Studies staff; during the orientation they will teach you ways to be safe when using the rickshaws.

12 Your fare is determined by a meter. Make sure that the driver turns the meter over. You will be given a current fare card, it will translate the meter fare into the most recent rates and you will know if the meter tells the correct price. Some drivers can be shady, but if you demonstrate your command of Marathi, they will be less likely to attempt to fool you.

Bus

There are several bus terminals around the city where you can catch buses. The office in Pune can provide bus schedules for you upon arrival.

TRAVEL IN INDIA

Before you travel outside of Pune, be sure to consult with the program staff about your plans. It is always best to travel in groups of three or more. When traveling, be sure to carry your police registration, passport, and a copy of your passport (kept separately from the real thing). Keeping up-to-date on the current political situation and any U.S. State Department or Indian travel advisories is essential. Don't expect to visit Kashmir or Punjab, for example, since these states are off-limits to foreigners as stated in your student visa.

Make sure to plan your break well in advance; in fact, you can start right now! Start doing research while you are in the United States and then, when you are in India, you can finalize your plans. Make sure that you know exactly where you want to go and how you want to get there before you start making reservations. You will pay extra for changes and the staff cannot always help you in making those changes. During longer trips out of Pune, it would be useful to carry a guidebook along. One popular choice is Lonely Planet India. You must be back in Pune for the beginning of all scheduled class sessions. Please do not insult your professors or compromise the ACM program staff by coming back from the travel breaks late!

Bus

For short trips, the Maharashtra State Transport operates buses to every corner of the state. Three ST stands are located in Pune: Swargate to Khadakvasla, Sinhgad Fort, Mahabaleshwar, Wai, Kolhapur. Pune Station to Alandi, Ahmednagar, Aurangabad (Ajanta and Ellora Cave), Mahabaleshwar. Asiad buses leave every 15 minutes for Mumbai from the Pune bus station. Shivajinagar to Karla Caves, Lonavla. Luxury buses also leave daily for Mumbai.

Train

Transportation can be confusing and the ACM Pune Staff are willing to help and guide you while making your travel Remember that it is important plans. The Lonavla local takes you to Khadki, Dapodi, to take a chain and lock when Chinchwad, Kamshet, Malavali, Lonavla, and other stops. traveling by train; they can be Catch it either at Pune station or at Shivajinagar station. purchased in the station for about 35-50 rupees.

13 There are several fast trains to Mumbai and Holiday special trains in the afternoon each Saturday and Sunday. Reservations for trains to and from Mumbai are available one month in advance except for the Deccan Queen which are available ten days in advance. Make your plans early and go in the morning to either Pune station, the railway office on Karve Road, or a travel agent.

For longer trips by train, it's a good idea to buy your tickets well in advance. If your train goes overnight, request a berth. You'll get either a plain or padded berth with no bedding. You can avoid the hassles of making your own arrangements by using a travel agent. Some people, however, feel this just means a different kind of hassle. Try Tradewings on M.G. Road, Pegasus Travel on F.C. Road or Prasanna Travel, also on F.C. Road.

Air

Domestic air travel is a rapidly changing industry in India. While Indian Air used to be the only government-run domestic airline, various private domestic airlines like Jet Airways and Sahara are now in service. You can go to www.jetairways.com to get a sense of prices. Ask the program staff about the costs of flights before you leave, so you can budget accordingly. If flights are booked well in advance, a lower student-rate may apply.

Re-Entry Permits and Multiple-Entry Visas

Because of the type of visa that the ACM obtains for you, getting re-entry visas, multiple-entry visas and visa extensions is not possible. Once you have left India, it will not be possible for you to re-enter the country on your student visa. In addition, your visa is valid for 6 months past the date of issue. This means that your visa will expire at the end of December.

Visas for travel after the program

Visa information for foreign countries tends to change frequently. You should check into foreign visas on your own to get the most up-to-date information.

If you plan to go to Nepal, you will need a visa. You can obtain a tourist visa at the following entry points: Tribhuvan International Airport, Kathmandu; Biratnagar (Jogbani); Birgunj (Raxaul); Bhairahawa (Sunauli); Kakarbhitta (Panitanki) on the Nepal/India border; and Kodari on the Nepal/China Border. The fee for a 60 day, single entry tourist visa is $30 and can be extended an additional 30 days for $50. Make sure you have passport photos and American currency in addition to your passport.

For travel to Sri Lanka, a passport and onward/return ticket and proof of sufficient funds ($15 per day) are required. A tourist visa, valid for 90 days or less, may be granted at the time of entry into Sri Lanka. Yellow fever and cholera immunizations are needed if arriving from an infected area. Sri Lankan law requires all persons, including foreigners, who are guests in private households to register in person at the nearest local police station. Individuals who stay in private households without registering may be temporarily detained for questioning. This requirement does not apply to individuals staying in hotels or guesthouses.

14 Before making plans to visit Bangladesh, check with the staff in the Pune office about local conditions. Political demonstrations and labor strikes occur often. A passport and onward/return ticket are required. A visa is not required for a tourist stay of up to 15 days. Visas (landing permits) are available for a fee upon arrival by air.

Making travel arrangements to Bhutan is difficult. Tourists are admitted only in groups by pre- arrangement with Bhutan‘s Ministry of Tourism. Entry is available only via India, Bangladesh, Nepal, and Thailand; the border with China is closed. A passport and visa are required.

The U.S. State Department warns U.S. citizens to defer non-essential travel to Pakistan and evaluate carefully the implications for their security and safety before deciding to travel there. Information received by the U.S. Government suggests a continued need for vigilance on the part of American citizens resident in, or traveling through, Pakistan. You should carefully discuss any plans to travel in Pakistan with the staff in the Pune office. A passport and visa are required. The visa must be obtained from a Pakistani embassy or consulate before arrival.

GETTING BACK

A checklist of things to do before you leave India:

ACM Student Evaluation Remember to return your student evaluation form to the ACM office via email.

Travel Plans – Keep the Pune office informed of your departure plans and leave the program staff your contact information.

Police Registration Papers – There are departure formalities that you must follow. Take your passport and papers to the Foreigner's Registration Office within 8 days of your final departure from India. These formalities have to be done from Pune and in person. If you plan to travel within or outside India before your final departure date, make sure to save time for these formalities. It is wise to bring your confirmed airline ticket as well -- they might ask for it. Obtain an endorsement on your registration papers: "Reported to leave the country on __." You will have to submit these papers to the customs/airlines authorities at the airport.

Return ALL Library Materials

Return Confirmation and Baggage Allowances Remember you must reconfirm your return reservation with the airline 72 hours prior to departure, even if you did not request any changes. Check to see if baggage restrictions have changed when you reconfirm your ticket. If you have too much stuff, you may want to send a parcel. See the package section in Communications for instructions on sending packages home.

Check your Credit Card Balance If you have done last minute shopping, you need to ensure that you have enough money for the trip home.

Things to bring to the Airport You will need the following things at the airport when you leave: Passport

15 Confirmed air tickets Original police registration form Bank encashment certificates. You will need these to change extra rupees back to dollars. You cannot change back more than 10% of the total amount accounted for by the encashment certificates. It is much easier to spend all of your rupees.

Changing your Return Date

They will request the date change for you and advise you of your new return via e-mail. The date change fee is $250, plus any fare difference. Neither ACM nor Oswald & Associates is responsible if you are unable to secure space on a new return date. Please note that ONLY the date can be changed, not the cities from which or to which you fly. For more information, please see the appendix.

If you stay in India after the end of the program, you are in India independently and are no longer affiliated with the India Studies Program. Of course, you will probably keep in touch with the people you have met in Pune, but be careful not to impose. ACM is not responsible for you if you run out of money, become ill, have problems with the government or police, or problems with your travel arrangements. Please keep in mind that we ask you to leave India by December 25th; this is because your student visa will expire at this time and it is impossible to get this visa extended or renewed.

Packing Up to Leave

Give old unwanted clothes to charity. Ask your family or the Pune office if they know people who would appreciate them. While you're waiting in the airport, drop your Indian family a postcard. It would be nice to drop them a note after you have returned home, too. Many students write regularly after the program is over, and this correspondence is much appreciated.

Getting to the Airport

If you are taking the group flight back to the United States, the India Studies staff will arrange for a bus to take you to the airport in Mumbai. If you are leaving independently of the group, you will need to get to the airport on your own.

You can get to Chattrapatti Shivaji International Airport in several ways. The easiest option is to make a reservation with Sandi‘s Limo Service. For about Rs. 600, a driver will pick you up at your residence in Pune and drive you directly to the Mumbai airport. The trip takes about four hours. Ask the Pune staff how to make a reservation.

You can also take a train, get off at Dadar, and then catch a taxi to the airport. If your train arrives at Victoria Terminus in Mumbai, you can take the airport bus to Chattrapatti Shivaji for about Rs. 20. The bus departs hourly until midnight (less frequently thereafter) from the Air India building on Nariman Point. The trip to Chattrapatti Shivaji takes 90 minutes, and the bus stops first at the domestic airport. Better inquire a few hours in advance for current schedule and price to be safe.

16 Another option is to take the Asiad bus to Dadar, then catch a taxi. The taxi will cost about Rs. 200.

If you fly from Pune, watch out for baggage restrictions. The flight will land in Santa Cruz, so you'll have to catch a free airport shuttle bus to Chattrapatti Shivaji.

Health Reminder

You must continue taking anti-malaria pills for four weeks after returning to the U.S. Plan to have a medical check-up with stool test upon return. You may not even be aware that you are carrying parasites or worms, and you'll be happier to find out sooner rather than later.

Life in Pune COMMUNICATIONS

E-Mail

The program does not provide e-mail access for students. However, cyber cafes are available throughout Pune at very reasonable prices. This is by far the easiest and most common form of communication for program participants.

Fax Service

You can receive faxes at the Pune office. You can use the office fax only to send messages in case of an emergency.

Telephones

You can only use the Pune office phone in case of an emergency, and you will have to pay for any long distance calls. Many families also have phones in their homes, and you should inquire about their preferences before using the phone. They may let you make local calls, but you should not plan to use their phone for long distance calls. You can make direct long distance calls at any one of the yellow STD booths along major streets. Just dial 001 (for the U.S.) then the area code and number.

Many students in previous years have bought mobile phones in India, and they find them to be very helpful for communication with each other and their families in the U.S. Most recommend advising their parents to buy phone cards in the US and to then call them in India, incoming calls on cell phones are comparatively inexpensive or free. Please note that getting a mobile phone is not required by the program.

17

Express Courier Service

DHL Worldwide Express, Atur House, 16 Ambedkar Road or on F.C. Road is the best. Blue Dart Courier Service, 419 Aurora Towers (East Wing, 4th floor), 9 Molodiona Road, Pune, is connected with Federal Express. Both can send parcels, documents and letters all over India and the world. They guarantee fast delivery at a substantial price.

Sending Letters

The staff or your host family will help you to locate a post office nearby.

Sending Packages

By the end of the program, most students find they have more belongings than they started with. If you want to send some things home to avoid excess baggage charges, Sea Mail is the most inexpensive option and fairly reliable. Parcels arrive in 3 to 6 months. One frequent visitor has sent eight packages by sea mail, and they have all arrived. A special rate for books is also available. Air mail is more expensive for packages.

Purchase enough packing cloth (white or off-white) to wrap your parcel. You may want to wrap your belongings in plastic before putting them in the box. Either take the parcel to a tailor and ask him to stitch the cloth around it for you, or stitch it securely yourself. The seams must be sealed with sealing wax and pressed with a seal which cannot be duplicated. The Pune office can help you with this. Take the parcel to the post office, and ask for two copies of the customs declaration form. Declare the contents as gifts, and no one will have to pay duty at the other end. The value of the parcel can be up to Rs. 1000, and you will have to denote each item in the parcel and its approximate value. You will want to budget plenty of time for this visit to the post office. Get the parcel weighed, buy the stamps, and hand it over. Be sure to get a receipt for your parcel!

If you are only sending books, the procedure is a little different. The parcel should be wrapped in paper and secured with string. The seals still go. The book rate is cheaper.

Receiving Packages

Small and inexpensive packages can be sent to you in Pune. Have your packages sent in small, padded envelopes and declared as gifts. Sending them airmail helps them get through and assures they arrive before the program ends. Don't have valuable things sent in the mail as they may be held up in Mumbai, and you might have to pay a hefty 300% duty on them in order to get them released from the Postal Appraisal Department in Mumbai. Be warned that film and cassette tapes, for example, have been known to disappear in transit. If you'd like to receive a care package, tell your family that candy and chocolate arrive in good shape and aren't too expensive to send.

18 LIVING ARRANGEMENTS

Your Host Family

No matter how much you prepare for the difference between college study on your home campus and student life in India, there will be surprises and adjustments to make. To a large extent you will have to take upon yourself the responsibility for the success of your experience in Pune. For instance, the success of your stay with an Indian family will depend upon your ability to observe and adapt to a lifestyle very different from what you are accustomed to. Past participants have emphasized that this is crucial. Being honest with your Indian family builds trust and helps to avoid tension later. The differences you encounter will include food, household routine, amount of privacy and personal space, and protocol. You may also hear political attitudes you've never heard at home. Sensitive areas may be some of your family members' views of feminism, poverty, and Dalit (formerly labeled ‗the untouchables‘) issues. You may need to remind yourself that you are a guest in India, and that it is your responsibility to make adjustments to a different way of life.

In your Indian home you should keep in mind the courtesy expected of a guest. No matter what country you're in, it's polite to let your hosts know when you're going out and when you'll be back. Try to establish a schedule which does not disrupt your host family's routine. Find out when you're expected to be present for meals and other family events, and find out what your household responsibilities are. In some ways, staying with an Indian family is like being back in your parents' home again. You may have to remind yourself that you are in India to learn from your Indian family and friends, not to make them adapt to your expectations and preferences. Being constantly alert to what is going on around you is tiring at first, especially where using a foreign language means that just speaking requires effort.

In all this, we remind you that your home stay is an important source of experiential learning. The experience may make you recognize preconceived notions about contemporary India. It may sensitize you to cultural differences more subtle than you had anticipated. It will most certainly challenge you to see life from someone else's point of view and to stretch your own culturally-shaped perceptions. It will not necessarily be a simple task, but you will be richly rewarded if you are open to exploring the possibilities for learning that surround you in India.

“I really fell in love with my host family. I have become a part of the family - not just here in India, but also when I leave.”

19 Entertaining Guests

Entertaining guests while you are living with your host family in Pune can be an imposition on your hosts, and we strongly recommend that your family and friends stay at any number of the reasonably priced hotels located throughout Pune. Here are a few hotels close to the Pune office.

Hotel Ambassador Hotel Gaurish 1125, Model Colony Next to Hotel Vaishali Opposite Jagtap Dairy F.C. Road Shivajinagar, Pune 411 016 Pune 411 004 91 20 25660623 Fax: 91 20 25660623 Hotel Raviraj Email: [email protected] 790 Bhandarkar Institute Road 20 25439581/2/3/4 Hotel Ambience CTS No. 1105/2 Hotel Shryas Near Telephone Exchange 1242/B Apte Road Lakaki Road Deccan Gymkhana Model Colony Pune 411 004 Shivajinagar, Pune 411 016 91 20 25531963 91 20 25662751/2/3 Fax: 91 20 25536908 Fax: 91 20 25662754 Email: [email protected] Hotel Surya 1202/3, Shivajinagar Hotel Ashish Plaza Apte road, Near M. Phule Museum 1198 Shivajinager Pune 411 004 Fergusson College Road 91 20 25530181/2/3/4 25536541/2/3/4 Fax: 91 20 25531187 FAX 25532699 Email: [email protected] three stars

Hotel Deccan Park 299/19D, Fergusson College Road 91 20 25656511/2/3/4/7 FAX 91 20 25656515

Gifts for Your Host Family and Friends

We are not able to tell you in advance who will be your host family. It is best to bring gifts that are general in nature, as well as a few for children. Even if you don‘t end up in a family with young children, you will undoubtedly meet kids that would love a gift! Also, past groups have traded gift items with each other to make gifts fit family members. Don't bring much and don't spend a lot of money; just a few things from your part of the United States are fine. Previous participants point out that many of the families have had students before and have some of the items mentioned, and they recommend that you bring a few nice things rather than "lots of cheap

20 gifts." Some past students, especially women, have left their clothes (shalwar kamiz, the Punjabi outfit) with the families for the next student. That comes in handy for the first few days in Pune.

T-shirts, especially collegiate or Gum and chocolates athletic, are great gifts for brothers. Spices like oregano and basil. Treat Baseball hats with any U.S. team logos your Indian family to pizza and Card games like Old Maid and UNO spaghetti. Small games like Jacks, Jenga, frisbee Hershey‘s powdered cocoa is quite Match box cars, but not battery popular. operated Photos of your family, house, and Travel sewing kit friends. Pretty cosmetic bag or jewelery box Calendars with photos Sample sizes of perfume and cologne Picture books about your home state, or Scented hand creams and lotions other places in the U.S. Hair clips, ornaments, ribbons Stamps Pierced earrings, necklaces Paper weights since ceiling fans are in Knick-knacks – All homes have a abundance. special cupboard for these. Triple-fold umbrella Fancy candle sticks and candles Popular music Large Ziploc bags -- Bring some for Comic books/Magazines yourself as well; great for storing things. Plush printed towels  It would also be a very nice gesture to make a meal for your host family at some point during your time in India. You might want to bring a few of your favorite recipes from home so that you can share them with your Indian family.  ACADEMICS

Being in India is different from being on your home campus on a cultural as well as an academic level. You will not have a wide variety of courses and instructors from which to choose. Some participants have found this to be an advantage. Since the same people will be in your classes, you may be able to help each other make connections between what you are doing in class and what you are learning outside. You will see your colleagues from the program in class nearly every day. Their company can be a great support. There are, of course, disadvantages as well. You may find that your Indian professor is not as accustomed to leading discussions and answering questions from students as your professors are at home. Typical behavior in an Indian classroom might seem more formal than it is at home. Informal behavior, such as writing letters, passing notes, or combing hair in class is considered by Indian professors to be highly inappropriate. Simple courtesy is welcome whatever the cultural setting.

You will learn a lot about India simply by observing the way classes are organized and lectures presented. It will be up to you to follow the reading assignments without frequent assessment in

21 the form of quizzes from your instructors. The program faculty in Pune normally teach at the University and are most familiar with Indian ways of teaching. In the Indian educational system, students generally write one exam at the end of the semester, and these exams do not usually emphasize essay writing as much as the exams you may be used to. Most of our professors will try to accommodate student requests for specific reading assignments, but they will ask for no written assignments other than the exam and most are unfamiliar with the idea of class discussion. It will be up to you to investigate questions of interest which are not covered in class. Research and writing will be different, too, without the resources of your familiar college library, faculty, and computer. Again, this means you will have to make use of the resources which your local surroundings do offer: museums, architecture, newspapers, historical sites, people, and a different way of life. Your instructors, the ACM staff, and your student colleagues can offer advice, but this is an opportunity for intellectual growth which is highly personal and individual. What comes out of it will depend mostly on you.

Program Courses

Marathi class is mandatory for the full program. It will be intensive study held daily during orientation, and frequently during the academic term. The Certificate Course in Maharashtra Culture and Language consists of a fifteen week period broken up into segments with travel breaks. You will also begin the term with the Foundations Course, an introduction to life and culture in Pune. Additional courses offered in the past have included Marathi literature, history, politics, sociology, art history, philosophy, economics, music, geology, and religion. Course selection will be made in India. You will not be able to select these courses until after you arrive in India.

Independent Study Project

In addition to course work, you are expected to complete an independent study project under the guidance of an Indian faculty member. In the first few weeks, the director will help you prepare a workable project proposal. When deciding on a project topic, try to be flexible and open to new ideas. During orientation, you will have a chance to explore Pune to determine the best way to approach your research. After the orientation, time goes quickly, so it will be helpful to get started on your project right away.

Most students encounter unexpected logistical “For me, the project opened many doors to problems (language, travel, getting to know the meeting people and exploring Mumbai and Pune. people who can help you, etc.). Getting started It was also my main source of an academic early offers the best chance of solving those challenge, and kept me very busy.” problems in time to complete the project. In the past, many students have had trouble getting “With the project, whatever one puts in is started with projects and have found themselves whatever one gets out of it.” swamped in October and November. To prevent this and also to give more structure to the whole “The project was a major part of my experience, process of independent projects, you will be and a major part of how I found my place here.” given a schedule for update reports. All of these “The project was great because it gave us a things help students move along steadily on their chance to interact with the community.”

22 projects. A small amount of money will be made available to each student as reimbursement for project costs; this amount covers copying, translation, books, etc. Please see the Appendix for more details.

Tip: more than one student in the past has saved their entire project on a floppy disk, only to have the disk get corrupted or lost. It is best to save your project both on a disk as well as in files in your email. The last thing you want is to lose months of work at the very end of the program!

Credit and Grades

ACM recommends 16 credits granted for your work overseas. Marathi Language is recommended at 6 credits, the Independent Study Project at 4 credits, Foundations Course and all other courses at 1.5 credits. Before you leave home campus you should find out from your registrar exactly how many credits you will earn, and what graduation requirements they will meet. This information will not be available in India. Different colleges have different policies about credit; find out about such things as pass/fail options and how your India program credits will appear on your transcript. You should also discuss your plans for your independent project with your advisor and academic department, particularly if you want to use it to fulfill a requirement or serve as the basis for an honors or senior project. They will want to see the paper, so bring at least one copy home with you. During the first two weeks of classes in India, you will be asked to complete a grade choice form. This will inform the ACM Chicago office and your home college registrar which courses you have chosen and whether you wish to have letter or non-letter grades recorded for any courses. The grade choice form will give a brief description of each ACM college's policy for off-campus programs, but it would be a good idea to find out ahead of time. Grades will be forwarded to your registrar by the ACM office as soon as they are available, so it's important to fill out these forms.

To make re-entry into your home college go more smoothly, be sure to leave the Pune office address with the registrar, and ask him or her to send registration materials for your first term back at college. Give the registrar the dates for the Indian program and have the materials sent airmail.

Grades will arrive in the ACM office usually in February or March. They will be released to your college registrar only after all your financial obligations to the program have been met.

The ACM Library

The ACM library has a pretty good collection on a variety of topics such as philosophy, religion, politics, sociology, economics, literature, art, etc. It also has a large number of paperbacks left by previous ACM students.

How to use the library Except for the paperback collection, all of the books in the library are currently listed in a ledger labeled Library Holdings. The books in this ledger are classified according to subject. The books under each subject are not listed in alphabetical order. They are numbered in the order in which they came into the library. The books on the shelves are arranged according to subject and number (not alphabetically). A card catalogue classifies books

23 first by subject, and then alphabetically by author. The library list is currently being computerized, but is not completed as of yet. When you want to take a book out of the library, register your name in the ledger labeled Library Issue Register. All books must be returned by the end of the program.

Student Projects The Pune office has most of the project papers written by ACM students since 1969. The volumes on the shelf are arranged by year.

Other Libraries

Alochana (Women‘s Documentation Center) in Ganesh Nagar—has useful material. American Institute of Indian Studies has an excellent, if small, library at Deccan College. Crossword on Jangli Maharaj Road (Bookstore) The Fergusson College Library and the University of Poona Library might be used with the aid of your guide. Gokhale Institute, located off of F.C. Road. You may wish to use this library if you are doing a project in politics or economics. Ms. Nene can help you get a membership card which allows you to use books on the premises. Borrowing privileges are restricted to graduate students. If necessary, your instructor may be able to borrow books on your behalf. Borrowing privileges are Rs. 300 per week, but you might see if they issue a one day pass which is cheaper.

Extracurricular Activities and dance instruction are especially popular, and can provide a welcome change from Many students take advantage of class work. opportunities to get involved in extracurricular activities. Music, yoga, art,

LOST AND FOUND

Unfortunately, some ACM students have been the victims of theft. Be careful, especially while traveling on trains and buses as foreigners are an easy target. Carry your passport and money under your clothes and take the same precautions you would in an American city.

If anything of value is lost or stolen, report it to the nearest police station, especially if the lost item was recorded in your passport upon arrival in India. Sometimes various insurance policies at home can cover lost property, so it is essential that you get a police report for the insurance company.

With a little bit of planning you can quickly recover from theft. Make sure you keep copies of the following in a safe place: birth certificate, passport, student visa, police registration papers, plane ticket, traveler‘s checks, credit cards and serial numbers from electronic equipment like your camera and laptop computer. Having copies of these items will make them easier to replace. Suggestion: you may also want to keep a copy of these documents at home with your parents as well in case they need to make arrangements on your behalf from the United States.

24

Lost Traveler’s Checks

You must also report lost traveler‘s checks to the police. The police report must accompany your application for replacement. If you lose checks, you can replace them at LK Traders in Pune. Bring the serial numbers of the lost checks and the police report with you. It is important to keep track of your traveler‘s check usage…carefully kept records come in handy!

Lost Passports

In the event you lose your passport, follow to the procedure below. If you've registered your passport, kept copies of your papers, and have your birth certificate, the process will go more smoothly.

Report theft or loss immediately to the nearest police station. If the theft happened on the train, you will have to report to the railway police. You will have to give all the details about your passport, so it is crucial that you know all the information: number, date of issue, place of issue, visa number, and validity. They will give you a police report. Take the following things with you to the American Consulate in Mumbai: the police report your original police registration form certificate of affiliation to TMV all your passport and visa details your driver‘s license (to prove identity) a copy of your birth certificate (to prove citizenship) $97 for replacement, additional fees may apply for incidental expenses like photographs Two 2‖ x 2", identical black and white or color passport photos which meet the following requirements: image size (from bottom of chin to top of head, including hair) must be between 1‖ and 1 3/8‖ (no more, no less), taken in full front view, including head and shoulders, against a white background; printed on thin, unglazed paper (Hollywood Studios of Jangli Maharaj Road can take these photos quickly). You cannot be wearing dark glasses or hats in these photographs. a letter from the Pune office as well as a photocopy of your birth certificate may be helpful

You will have to explain the full details of the loss to the consulate.

You must fill out a detailed application as well as a few additional forms which are available at the Consulate. The questions on it are quite specific: parents' birth dates and places of birth, etc.

When all this is completed, it will take at least 2 weeks to get a new passport. An occasional phone call may speed up the process. You'll have to go to Mumbai to pick it up.

Because you will not have your Indian visa stamped in your new passport, you will have to carry your original police registration form with you.

25

Lost Plane Tickets

Make copies of your plane tickets and keep them in a safe place. Copies of your tickets may also come in handy if you don‘t have time to contact Oswald & Associates. If you have an e-ticket, Continental Airlines will be able to find you in their system with proper identification.

Lost Luggage

Have your luggage checked all the way through to Mumbai. If your luggage still does not make it to the Mumbai airport, you must fill out a claim form with a baggage agent before you leave the baggage claim area. They will probably ask you for the number on the adhesive claim ticket attached to the lost luggage. Don‘t worry, a sticker with this number is somewhere on your ticket jacket. You will also need to give them the program address and phone number in Pune. Make sure you get a receipt for your lost luggage and a phone number to call to check-up on it. Let the ACM office in Chicago know your luggage is lost, and they will track it for you from the U.S.

LIVING EXPENSES

We estimate that students generally spend about $250 per month on personal expenses for a total of $1,500 for the program. If you will be traveling extensively or staying after the program is over, plan accordingly. The program provides very modest stipends for local transportation and the field project. The current exchange rate (May 2008) is 41.2 Indian rupees to the U.S. dollar (INR 1 = $.024). Exchanging money on the black market is obviously illegal, and it is unfair to India, too. You risk expulsion from the program and deportation from the country by doing so.

Hard Currency

You should bring some hard currency. Past students have taken between $100-$200 with them. You can get a slightly better exchange rate for U.S. currency than traveler‘s checks; however cash can obviously not be replaced if lost or stolen. You can pay for airfare, train tickets, visa fees, accommodations at large hotels and incidentals at the airport in U.S. currency. You can also negotiate better prices for rugs and other expensive items by offering U.S. currency. In a pinch, it is also easy to exchange at hotels and such.

Credit and Debit Cards

ATMs are getting more and more plentiful and convenient. Almost all students rely on debit cards to get cash. Credit cards also offer cash advance options and often give the best exchange rate on purchases. Debit cards with the Visa and Mastercard logos are accepted at the HDFC bank ATM machine, Andhra Bank, as well as in Mumbai and Goa. Several students found that to be the most convenient way to get cash. Citibank is becoming more common in India and a Citibank VISA card could be used at a Citibank ATM. You can even use credit cards to make a

26 purchase at Indian stores or as a phone card -- just remember to check out the card holder benefits before you leave.

Traveler's Checks

You may want to bring some money in traveler‘s checks. Whatever type of traveler‘s checks you get, make sure you ask for a receipt from your bank (and keep this separate from your checks until you intend to cash them). Showing this receipt with your passport may make cashing the checks in India easier. A small fee may be charged for exchanging traveler‘s checks, so you may want to bring larger denominations.

An agent comes to the ACM India office once a week to exchange money for students in a reliable and convenient manner. In a pinch, a number of banks can exchange your traveler‘s checks for rupees.

Keep an accurate record of all your money transactions, serial numbers on your checks, and exchange receipts. You will need the exchange receipts to prove to the income tax people that you weren't working in India. You will also need them in order to convert leftover rupees back to dollars when you leave India. You will only be able to change back 10% of the total amount you exchanged, so don't change too many dollars. You may also need these when purchasing train tickets.

Getting Money from Home

You should bring all the money you think you'll need. The program staff will NOT be able to loan you money or cash checks for you. In a dire emergency, you can try one of the following methods.

With a debit card, you can ask your parents to put money into your account for your use. If you have an American Express card, you may change traveler‘s checks (up to $800) or cash a personal check at the AmEx office. Western Union wire transfer through AMBRO bank is very easy and quite a fast way to receive money. Money orders, Demand Drafts and checks cannot be cashed in India.

PERSONAL SAFETY AND OFF-CAMPUS STUDY

While studying off-campus offers new educational opportunities, it can also present challenges and risks that are different from those on your home campus. Just as you prepare for a new mode of learning on the program, you should also think about living in a new environment that may contain new kinds of risks and will not have the same support systems or forms of assistance that are available on your home campus or in your home town. Around ACM and throughout the country, off-campus study professionals are working to help students prepare for

27 the challenges of living and learning in a new environment. Here are some guidelines to keep in mind as you prepare for the ACM India Studies Program.

Traffic and Travel in Pune

You will be living and studying in a larger city than most of you are accustomed to, and traffic will be congested and faster. You will be commuting between your home and the Pune office each day by foot, bus, or rickshaw. Familiarize yourself with traffic patterns and practices early on. It will be immediately evident that cars travel on the left, not the right side of the road. Your host family and program staff can advise you about how to ensure your safety as you travel around Pune.

Health

While you are in India, you need to be aware of your health and your responsibility for monitoring new or familiar medical concerns. You have had inoculations against diseases that are not prevalent in the U.S., and you should pay particular attention to sanitation and food and water, especially in rural areas. Malaria is widespread in India, particularly in the rainy season, and you should follow preventative measures such as taking your malaria prophylactic regularly, wearing long sleeves, and using insect repellent. AIDS is also widespread. Also consult the Health Care section.

The challenges of adjusting to a new culture are an important part of what you will be experiencing in India. Adjusting to this new environment can be especially difficult when you are away from friends, family, and college faculty or staff that you know well. You will have days that are exciting and rewarding and also days where everything seems strange and exhausting. Program staff, host families, and new friends can help you recognize and talk through these pressures, and staff can also recommend counselors if you feel they might help.

Crime and Random Violence

By and large, Pune is a modern and safe city, and India is a hospitable and secure country. Like any place else in the world, however, Pune and other parts of India also have some crime and random violence. We encourage you to travel with a partner or in a small group. Follow your host family‘s advice about coming home at night and be extraordinarily cautious until you learn to read street signals or cultural signs that might be warnings. On your home territory, you know what the potential danger signs are; you should take special care until you learn the comparable signs in India.

Gender Relations and Sexual Harassment

It is natural for you to want to dress as you do on your own campus. It is important to remember, however, that many countries maintain specific stereotypes - both negative and positive - about Americans drawn from our films, television, and pop culture. Your appearance and behavior will be evaluated within the context of these stereotypes. In addition, as a foreigner, you will be

28 noticed and people will draw conclusions, based upon your clothing and other visual signals, about ALL Americans.

As a guest in a foreign country, your highest priority should be to demonstrate your respect for and interest in your host nation. By observing and conforming to your host country‘s attire, you not only express your respect for that country, but you also become more immersed in the culture. This conformity will most likely mean dressing more formally, as American dress is often more casual and informal than that of other countries.

ACM policy prohibits sexual harassment by program staff and students. Each student is entitled to participate in the program without having to deal with harassment or an uncomfortable situation. Any problems should be immediately reported to the program staff, whether it involves another student, program staff or faculty, host family, or a setting outside the program such as an agency where you are pursuing your independent project. It may be possible to help you identify a way of stopping the harassment, or it may be necessary for you to get out of that setting.

Consult with Staff

You will face tangible risks in India, just as anywhere else. It is important to learn how to recognize danger and danger signs that are different from those you know at home. Use your judgment to recognize, manage, and avoid these risks. Be sure to let people know if you are feeling concerned or unsafe. Program staff, host families, and others can help you learn to manage the risks in India, just as they can help you learn to understand the history and culture.

LEGAL AND ETHICAL ISSUES

While participating in the India Studies program, you will be living and studying as a foreign guest in India and will be expected to conform to the standards of Indian society. Keep in mind that you are subject to all Indian laws and that your visa can be revoked for infractions deemed serious by the Indian government. As a member of the ACM-sponsored group, you are very visible in Pune. Your actions will reflect on the program and could jeopardize the position and legal status of the program. The program has been in Pune for over thirty years and has carefully cultivated good relations with people in India; illegal or inappropriate actions can imperil both yourself and the program. The following issues have been identified by program staff as potentially problematic.

Political Involvement

Politics in India are extremely volatile and sometimes violent. Any participation in political organizations, rallies, etc. will be in violation of your student visa and could lead to deportation as well as endangering the program's educational status. In addition, you may be placing yourself in physical danger.

29 Money Changing

Black market money changing is illegal and can get you deported.

Sexual Activity

Social restrictions on relations between the sexes in India are much stricter than in the United States. When living with the host family, you must abide by their standards which will likely preclude even being alone with a member of the opposite sex. Don't offend your family or place yourself in an inappropriate situation. Although you may think you are being discreet, remember that your high profile in Pune ensures that your actions will not remain confidential.

Drugs and Alcohol

As in the United States, recreational drugs are illegal in India. The program or the U.S. consulate can do very little for you if you are caught in possession of illegal substances. Excessive alcohol consumption is unacceptable as a guest in an Indian family, and can also lead to problems with the authorities.

Travel

Parts of India and the surrounding countries have been plagued by communal violence and terrorism at times, so it is essential to keep yourself informed about the current political situation and any U.S. State Department or Indian travel advisories. You should consult with the program staff about travel plans, and abide by their recommendations about places to avoid. Do not travel alone; accidents can happen, and it is vital to have someone to assist you in case of trouble. It is absolutely prohibited to operate a motor vehicle while in India.

Serious infractions are punishable with expulsion from the program.

These issues will be discussed at length by the Director, who will give you more specific examples of inappropriate behavior. This list is not comprehensive, so if in doubt, ask. One of the challenges of living in India is listening for cultural cues about appropriate and inappropriate behavior from your family, friends, and staff members, who often will not explicitly state their views. The greater your sensitivity and flexibility, the greater your success on the program.

HEALTH CARE

Insurance

ACM does not provide health insurance for program participants. Please discuss your health insurance with your parents before you leave so that you fully understand what coverage you have and how to make a claim. Make sure that your college or family medical insurance covers both doctor and hospital expenses and that the policy is valid abroad. You should bring insurance claim forms and proof of coverage with you. You will be expected to pay for any medical expenses at the time of treatment in India and seek reimbursement from your insurance

30 company afterwards. Fortunately, excellent medical care is available at a fraction of the cost when compared to the U.S.

Notifying Your Family

You should be aware that, in case of illness or injury involving hospitalization or a series of visits to a doctor's office, ACM reserves the right to inform the person you designated as an emergency contact. This is necessary not only to keep your parents or guardian informed, but also to let them know that you are incurring medical expenses for which they may wish to seek reimbursement.

Your Medical History

If you need medical care in India, an accurate and complete medical history will help you get appropriate treatment. Thus it is important to have a complete physical examination and a dental check-up before departure. During this examination your physician can identify any existing conditions of which you should be aware, provide advice about health concerns and international travel, and administer the inoculations listed on the following pages. Any health information you provide to the ACM office is, of course, confidential. It will be released only to the program director and to the physician who treats you.

Some over-the-counter medicines are readily available and inexpensive in India. You should take a 6 month supply of prescription medication with you as well as a general medicine kit as mentioned in the What to Bring section. Make sure the pharmaceutical, not the brand, name is indicated, and ask your physician to type the prescription in Latin. Make sure this official pharmaceutical description accompanies your medication in your carry-on luggage. Do not place any prescription medications and corrective lenses you may need in your checked baggage.

The information provided here may appear worrisome, but you should know that prior students have had few health problems and certainly none serious. The breadth of this information is simply meant to help you make informed decisions about precautions for maintaining good health. For further information about international travel and health precautions, contact the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC).

Other Precautionary Measures before You Go

Most illnesses can be avoided simply by following these preventive measures: guard against insect bites, especially at night; do not handle any animals; do not swim or bathe in fresh water because of possible parasitic infection (salt water and chlorinated water are fine); be careful about eating uncooked foods; drink only bottled or boiled water and do not eat ice. Here are some other precautions which will help ensure good health:

31 AIDS AIDS is common throughout the Indian subcontinent and is transmitted primarily through sexual intercourse and intravenous drug use. You should educate yourself about AIDS transmission.

Lactobacillus/Acidophilus Both lactobacillus and acidophilus contain the culture found in active yogurt, and they help keep your intestinal flora healthy and digestion running smoothly. Many people find lactobacillus helpful in preventing or correcting stomach troubles. It is especially recommended after a course of antibiotics because such medicines wipe out good bacteria with the bad. Start taking acidophilus before you leave the U.S. At home, look for it in health food stores, and in India ask for Nutrolin B at a pharmacy.

Tuberculosis You may want to get a TB skin test before you go for your own information.

World Health Card Get a World Health Organization Card from your physician, County Health Office, or Public Health Service. This card records your inoculation history and will make giving your medical history to an Indian physician much easier. If you are unable to get one of these cards, keep a record of your immunization history with your important documents.

You are responsible for determining the medical requirements for entry to any other countries that you are likely to visit independently. Requirements differ from one country to the next, so it is imperative that you obtain this information before you go. You can contact the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, your physician, County Health Office, or local hospitals with travelers' clinics for more information.

What to Do if You Get Sick in India

Just as you may fall ill in the U.S. with colds, cough, or flu, you may encounter the same in India but probably more often. With simple precautions and common sense, most students maintain a fairly good health record while in India. Care with your drinking water is one of the most important precautions for you to take. Following are some of the more frequently encountered health problems, along with the treatments which are considered most effective.

Colds and Coughs These are quite common and frequent in Pune. The climate is desert-like in its high day temperature and low night temperature, sometimes more than a 20 degree difference. Also the humidity is usually low (except during the monsoon), giving rise to a dusty and smoky atmosphere. These colds and coughs usually respond to simple treatment such as rest, fluids, decongestants, and cold preparations.

Dehydration This is perhaps the single most important health concern you will face in India. In a tropical, dry climate like Pune, mild to moderate dehydration is significant. Besides water loss through urination and/or perspiration, insufficient water intake through lack of moisture in the air you breathe is equal to 700-1000 cc (almost a liter) under normal activity. This means a daily loss of nearly 2 liters that must be replaced by oral fluid intake. You may not sense this loss, but you may experience headaches, or feel tired and listless. All these symptoms can be corrected with ingestion of water, salt, and sugar.

32 In cases of fever, diarrhea, or increased physical activity (biking, trekking, walking), dehydration can become a major problem. This should be corrected by proper and sufficient intake of fluids. A commonly used preparation for this is "electral powder." Take it with lime juice, common salt, sugar, and water. Taking the last four ingredients without the powder will also help replace essential salts. Since students are generally active, they should try to take in at least 2 liters (the equivalent of 8 cups) of fluid per day in the form of water, juices, and tea. This is a minimal amount.

Fevers Fever can be caused by bacteria, virus, or both. It can also result from physical strain and dehydration. Viral fevers usually come on suddenly and are accompanied by a high temperature (103-104 degrees), body aches, leg cramps, listlessness, and chills. Many times they are accompanied by a reddish, fine, measle-like rash. A viral fever can last from 24 hours to one week. Treatment is bed rest, Crocin or Tylenol, and plenty of fluids. In most cases this is sufficient. When the fever prolongs, the resistance to other infections is reduced. At such times vitamins and antibiotics may be given to avoid complications of secondary infections like bronchitis, pneumonia, tonsillitis, and sore throats.

Stomach Problems If you get an upset stomach, the smart thing to do initially is alter your diet for a few days. Avoid oils, spices, and milk products other than yogurt. Stick to soups. Drink plenty of boiled water; dehydration can become a problem. A few days rest may take care of the complaint. Try to overcome the stomach trouble with your own defenses, but if the problem persists, see a doctor. It may be dysentery.

Dysentery is an infection of the large intestine, limited to the mucosal lining. The infection can be amoebic, viral, or bacterial. The most common dysentery is a mixture of two or all of these. Due to infection and swelling of the mucosa, these symptoms most commonly occur: loose, watery stools; stool with mucous and/or blood; semi-solid or sticky stools; and abdominal cramping. Less frequent symptoms are loss of appetite, chronic indigestion, chronic constipation, hyperacidity, headache, nausea, and the urge to pass stools following ingestion of food. Since most diarrheas indicate an infective process, drugs are used with the following rationale: to eradicate amoebas and bacteria which are present, and to restore normal mucosal pattern of intestine and its normal flora. Several combinations of drugs are available in India for the treatment of dysentery.

Diet If you are taking treatment for dysentery, stick to the guidelines mentioned earlier. Take plenty of fluids to correct dehydration and loss of mineral salts. Yogurt and buttermilk are fine as long as they are prepared with boiled water. Whenever boiling water make certain to boil for ten to twelve minutes. If you can't take milk products, be sure to take Nutrolin B.

More Health Information

Acne Because of the change in diet, (more oil and spice, fewer fresh vegetables) some people find their skin oily and more prone to breakouts. Bring along any special astringents or creams you use at home. It is difficult to get rubbing alcohol over the counter in India, but you can find witch hazel. Lakme makes a commercial astringent, special astringent, and a toner, but both have coloring and fragrance. You can get Clearasil in India, too.

33 Antibiotics If you start on a course of antibiotics, you must stay on the course for the entire period recommended. Even if you feel better, stopping the course of antibiotics early makes it less effective and may lead to complications.

Contacts Because of the dusty climate, many people who wear contacts at home find themselves switching back to their glasses.

Fruits & Vegetables Fruits which can be peeled (bananas, mosambi, sweet limes, santri- oranges) are safest. Peel apples, guavas, and mangoes. You can also soak apples and guavas in potassium feuromate, or wash them carefully in boiled water. Mangoes will be in season when you first arrive, but watch out for the overripe ones. Check them carefully for little holes in the skin. Beware of raw salads.

Exercise Many students miss the regular exercise they get at home, especially women who are used to jogging because it's not very easy for women to run in Pune. There is a very good, clean health club with a swimming pool, nautilus equipment, massage, and sauna for a reasonable price.

Hair loss Many students, especially women, find that they collect a lot of hair in their brushes. Both diet and anti-malaria pills can bring on a small amount of hair loss. Try to get plenty of protein. Usually your hair will return to normal when you get back to the States.

Water Stick to boiled water. Remember that water in restaurants is usually not boiled, even if they tell you it is. Bottled water (Bisleri), soda, tea, and coffee are fine to drink. Watch out for ice!

Going to the Doctor in Pune

A small fund is available to cover your everyday medical needs while you are in India, but it does not cover any large medical expenses such as the cost of hospitalization. If any large medical bills are incurred, the Pune office will loan you sufficient funds to cover the expense with the understanding that the student and/or his or her family must reimburse ACM.

CULTURE SHOCK

No matter how much you know about the culture in India, you will inevitably experience some form of culture shock. The following information is quoted, with some alterations, from the highly recommended book Survival Kit for Overseas Living by L. Robert Kohls. You may obtain it by writing to the publisher, Intercultural Network/Systran Publications, 70 W. Hubbard Street, Chicago, IL 60610.

Culture Shock is the term used to describe the more pronounced reactions to the psychological disorientation most people experience when they move into a culture markedly different from their own. It can cause intense discomfort, often accompanied by hyper-irritability, bitterness, resentment, homesickness and depression.

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Some people hardly notice culture shock and experience a brief bout. Their personalities provide these people with a natural kind of immunity. Most of us, however, will have to deal with culture shock over a period of several months.

All of us have felt frustrated at one time or another. Although related, and similar in emotional content, frustration is different from culture shock. Frustration can always be traced to a specific action or cause and goes away when the situation is remedied. Some of the common causes of frustration are: ambiguous situations, the actual situation not meeting preconceived ideas, unrealistic goals, inability to see results, and using inappropriate methods to achieve objectives. Frustration may be uncomfortable, but it is generally short-lived as compared to culture shock.

Distinctive Features of Culture Shock

Culture shock does not result from a specific event or series of events. Instead, culture shock comes from encountering different ways of doing, organizing, perceiving or valuing which threaten your basic, unconscious, belief that your encultured customs, assumptions, values and behaviors are right.

Culture shock does not strike suddenly or have a single principal cause. Instead the cumulative effects build up slowly, from a series of small, difficult to identify events.

Sources of Culture Shock

Being cut off from familiar cultural cues and patterns, especially the subtle, indirect ways you normally express feelings. All the nuances and shades of meaning that you instinctively understand and that make your life comprehensible are suddenly taken away.

Living, studying or working over an extended period of time in an ambiguous situation.

Questioning values that you had considered absolute may conflict with your moral standards.

Continually experiencing situations in which you are expected to function with maximum skill and speed, but without adequately explained rules.

As indicated earlier, culture shock often progresses slowly. Your first reaction to different ways of doing things may be, ―How quaint!‖ When it becomes clear that these differences are not simply quaint, you may dismiss them by pointing out the fundamental similarities of human nature.

Eventually, the focus shifts to the differences themselves, sometimes to such an extent that they become overwhelming. The final state comes when the differences are narrowed down to the most troubling few and then exaggerated. For Americans, the standards of cleanliness, attitudes toward punctuality, and the value of human life tend to loom especially large. By making the host culture a scapegoat for the natural difficulties inherent in the cross-cultural encounter, the sojourner now exhibits an acute state of distress. Culture shock has set in.

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Symptoms of Culture Shock

Homesickness Exaggerated cleanliness Boredom Chauvinistic excesses Withdrawal Stereotyping of host nationals Excessive sleeping Inability to work effectively Compulsive eating Inexplicable weeping fits Compulsive drinking Physical ailments Irritability

Not everyone will experience all these symptoms, nor will everyone experience the same degree of culture shock. Many people ride through culture shock with some ease, only now and again experiencing the more serious reactions. But many others do not. For them it is important to know that these responses occur, that culture shock is in some degree inevitable, and that their reactions are emotional and not easily managed rationally. Knowing this should help you better understand what is happening and reinforce your resolve to hastily recover.

How to Counteract Culture Shock

Find out as much as possible about your host country. One of the best antidotes to culture shock is knowing as much as possible about your environment. Consciously look for logical reasons behind everything in the host culture which seems strange, difficult, confusing or threatening. Even if your reasoning is wrong, it will reinforce the positive attitude that logical explanations do lie behind things that you observe in the host culture. Look at every aspect of your experience from the perspective of your hosts. Relax your grip on your own culture a little in the process. You cannot lose your culture, anymore than you can forget how to speak English, but letting go a little bit may open up some unexpected avenues of understanding. Do not succumb to the temptation to disparage the host culture. Do not associate with Americans who constantly complain and criticize the host culture. They will only reinforce your unhappiness. Identify a sympathetic and understanding host national (a member of your host family, a neighbor, another student, a friendly acquaintance) and talk with that person about specific situations and your feelings about them. Talking with Americans can only be helpful to a limited extent, because your problem lies with your relationship to the host culture. Above all, have faith in yourself, in the essential good will of your hosts, and in the positive outcome of your experience.

Skills Necessary to Combat Culture Shock

tolerance for ambiguity empathy low goal/task orientation communicativeness open-mindedness flexibility, adaptability reserving judgment curiosity

36 sense of humor strong sense of self warmth in human relationships tolerance for differences motivation perceptiveness self-reliance ability to accept failure

The most important characteristic is a sense the ultimate weapon against anger, tears, and of humor. No matter how many of the other annoyance. skills you have, the ability to laugh will be Coming Home: Reentry & Reverse Culture Shock

Reentry into your home culture can be both as challenging and as frustrating as living overseas, mostly because our attitude toward going ―home‖ is that it should be a simple matter of getting resettled, resuming your earlier routines, and reestablishing your relationships. However, world wide research has shown that reentry has its own set of special social and psychological adjustments. The following list of ideas may help make your reentry easier for you and for those at home.

Prepare for the adjustment process. The more you consider what is to come, and know about how returning home is both similar to and different from going abroad, the easier the transition will be. As one psychologist put it, ―Worrying helps.‖

Allow yourself time. Give yourself time to relax and reflect upon what is going on around you, how you are reacting to it, and what you might like to change. And give your family time for the same.

Understand that the familiar will seem different. Just as when you arrived at your off- campus site, you will be more aware of how your home looks when you go back. You will have a heightened sense of awareness that will last just a short time. You will have changed, home will have changed, and some things will seem strange, perhaps even unsettling. Take advantage of that time by writing your perceptions on paper. Look at it later, and think about why you noticed the things you did, and how your perceptions changed because of your experience in another culture.

Be sensitive to those around you. Upon returning everyone will ask about your trip, then they listen for a few minutes and tell about the new engine they put in their car, or about cousin John‘s wedding party. After a while they do not ask at all! Much frustration in returnees stems from what is perceived as disinterest by others in their experience and lack of opportunity to express their feelings and tell their stories. Showing an interest in what others have been doing while you have been on your adventure overseas is the surest way to reestablish rapport. Being as good a listener as a talker is a key ingredient in mutual sharing. Learn to give short responses, focusing on just one or two ideas about what you did while you were off campus. Save your long discussions for a few select people who have a basis for understanding your experience.

Reserve judgments. Just as you had to keep an open mind when first encountering the culture of a new foreign country, try to resist the natural impulses to make judgements about

37 people and behaviors once back home. What works in one situation may not work in another. Pick ideas that will work well for you, and disregard those that will not. Mood swings are common at first, so try to remain flexible. Respond thoughtfully and slowly so as to avoid quick answers and impulsive reactions.

Beware of comparisons. Making comparisons between cultures and nations is natural, particularly after residence abroad; however, a person must be careful not to be seen as too critical of home or too lavish in praise of things foreign. A balance of good and bad features is probably more accurate and certainly less threatening to others. The tendency to be an ―instant expert‖ is to be avoided at all costs.

Remain flexible. Keeping as many options open as possible is an essential aspect of a successful return home. Attempting to completely re-establish old social patterns and networks can be difficult, but remaining aloof is isolating and counterproductive. What you want to achieve is a balance between maintaining earlier patterns and enhancing your social and intellectual life with new friends and interests.

Find support and move on. There are lots of people back home who have gone through their own reentry and understand a returnee‘s concerns. Keeping in touch with the friends you made abroad can be a source of comfort. You can also help yourself by thinking about the future and the next challenge or goal that you may want to achieve.

DON’T MISS THESE SITES IN PUNE Many of these places will be included in the tour when you arrive. There will also be some individual field trips to these locations. Agha Khan Palace Mahatma Gandhi and other leaders for the Indian National Congress were imprisoned here during the 1942 Quit India Movement. Memorials to Gandhi‘s wife and secretary are located here.

Bund Gardens Also known as Mahatma Gandhi Udyan, these gardens are situated on the Mula- Mutha River. Constructed by Sir Jamshedji Jeejeebhoy, the bund provides water for the poor.

Chaturshrungi A temple high on a hill with a great view of Pune where a big fair is held in the fall. Located quite a ways behind Fergusson College.

Kotraj Snake Park.

Lal Deval Synagogue Built by David Sasoon in 1867 of red brick and trap stone in the English Gothic style.

Osho Ashram The still-thriving center founded by the late Bhagwan Rajneesh near the Blue Diamond Hotel in Camp.

Parvati Hill The Parvati and Devdeveshwar temples and Parvati Museum are a popular tourist attraction. Located on a high hill on Pune‘s south side.

38 Pataleshvar An eighth century rock-cut cave temple with massive pillars, a Shiva shrine and Nandi the Bull. Located at Shivajinagar off Jungli Maharaj Road.

Raja Dinkar Kelkar Sculptures, folk paintings, carving, and a large collection of betel nutcrackers Museum donated by Shri Dinkar Kelkar. Just off Bajirao Road.

Sambhaji Park Another favorite, with an aquarium.

Saras Bagh A park with pleasant lawns and the famous Ganesh temple built by Madhavrao Peshwa. Popular in the evenings.

Shaniwarwada Built in 1736, this former palace of the Peshwar rulers mysteriously burnt in 1827. Only the fortified wall, Nagarkhana, and a lotus pool remain. There is a light and sound show in the evening.

Shinde’s Chhattri A memorial to the Maratha warrior, Mahadji Shinde, which houses his chhattri (umbrella) and his silver portrait. Located on Pune‘s west side.

Tribal Museum and An excellent Museum of Worli and other tribal art and artifacts near Council Research Institute House in Camp.

Tulsi Bagh A courtyard with brassware, stalls, and a major temple in the heart of downtown.

EXCITING EXCURSIONS OUTSIDE PUNE

Talk to the India Studies Staff, they will be able to help you plan outings to some of these locations.

Alandi 22 km Site of the samadhi of Dnyaneshwar. A big fair is held here twice a year. The pilgrimage to Pandharpur (Dnyaneswar Palkhi) begins here.

Bedse Caves 52 km Less visited than Karla and Bhaja, and harder to find. Take the Lonavla local to Kamshet and walk through town. Then take a public jeep to Bedsa village. Walk up the hill.

Bhimashankar 122 km An elaborately carved Shiva temple, one of the 12 Jyotirlingas. An annual fair is held here during Mahashivrati.

Dehu 26 km Birthplace of the 17th century Marathi Saint, Tukaram.

39 Jejuri 48 km Temple of Khandoba. Read Jack Stanley‘s work on the god and temple before you go. A fair is held in December and a major holy day in July or August.

Karla and Bhaja Caves 55 km These Buddhist cave temples date to 1st and 2nd centuries BCE. Take the Lonavla local train to Malavli. Karla is an hour walk from one side of the tracks, and Bhaja is an hour the other way.

Lohagad and Visapur 52 km Separated by a one km ridge, the majestic hilltop forts provide an Forts excellent opportunity for trekking.

Lonavla 69 km You can take walks into the countryside from this popular hill resort.

Mahabaleshwar and 125 km Former British hill stations valued for their cool climate and great Panchgani views. The area looks a bit like the South Dakota Badlands. Plenty of places to walk and get away from the crowds and heat of Pune. Take the bus from Swargate Station and stay over night.

Mumbai 190 km When you want to spend time in a really big, cosmopolitan city.

Shirdi 200 km Town of Sai Baba, a Saint loved by people from all religions.

Shivneri 95 km The Shivneri fort where Shivaji was born.

Sinhagad 25 km Named after the lion-hearted general of Shivaji, Tanaji Malusare, this fort is 1,290 m high. Take the bus. ALUMNI SUGGESTIONS FOR ENTERTAINMENT Check the Maharashtra Herald, Sakal, and Pune Plus (of Times of India) for upcoming events.

Films

Try Empire and West End in Camp, Alka Talkies near Sambhaji Bridge, Inox in camp, or E- Square on University Road. Every multiplex has one or two English movies.

Hindi movies are everywhere. They are primarily musicals and run 2 to 4 hours. Take a friend along to interpret. The cinema is one key to Indian culture.

Vijay Talkies on Laxmi Road show Marathi films.

The Film Institute presents a wide variety of good foreign films. Sometimes they will ask you for a membership card, sometimes not. Go there for a schedule of events. For meaningful cinema, contact the Film Institute or Ashay Film Club.

40 Pune has many video rental stores, and most middle class homes have VCRs. One student recommended Chandan Video Library on Hong Kong Lane for a good selection as well as VCRs available for rent. Shangri-La Chinese Restaurant in between Law and Karve Roads has an excellent video rental store.

Music and Drama

The air-conditioned Bal Gandharva Theatre off J.M. Road is the main theatre for Indian drama, music, and dance. Another such theatre is the Nehru Memorial Hall in Camp. The Savai Gandharva Ranga Mandir between Tilak and Laxmi Roads hosts a number of Indian classical concerts, as does Tilak Smarak Mandir, which also presents Marathi drama. You can also see Marathi drama at Bharatnatyam Mandir at Narayan Peth. For tamasha, try Aryabhusan at Ganesh Peth; go there escorted.

The B.J. Medical College of Arts Circle runs an excellent concert series. They may host one event per month; sitar, sarod, etc. B.J. Medical College is on the grounds of Sasson Hospital near Pune Station.

The Ganesh Festival (also called the Pune Festival) invites great artists of India and arranges excellent concerts during the festival days. Free invitations to some of these concerts have been made available to ACM students in the past; therefore, don't buy the tickets before asking Ms. Nene about this festival

In late November or early December there is a three-day music festival in Pune called Savai Gandharva Sangeet Sabha. This festival draws some of the best classical musicians in India. DON'T MISS IT!

Pune Music Society hosts Western artists, usually at Gulati Hall, St. Vincent's School in Camp.

ALUMNI SUGGESTIONS FOR SHOPPING

You will find that Indian shops generally do not stay open all day. Most open after 9 a.m. and close at 1 p.m. They re-open at 4 until 8 or 9 p.m., and different parts of the city have different holidays. Camp is closed on Sunday and Deccan Gymkhana and Laxmi Road close on Monday. A lot of shops on Laxmi Road are open from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. these days. Another interesting place to shop is Zuna Bazaar held on Sundays and Wednesdays not far from Pune Station. You can buy utensils, images, and all kinds of stuff at inexpensive prices if you know how to bargain well. A 2004 alum mentioned Laxmi Road is cheaper than Camp and M.G. Road.

Book Stores

Crossword in Camp on Jangli Maharaj Road (there are also several other locations), Manney's in Camp, International Book Service in Deccan Gymkhana, by Sambhaji Bridge, Popular Bookstore on F.C. Road, Government Publications Bookstore near Ambedkar statue, Modern

41 Book Stall on East Street, and Majestic near Sneha Sadhan is the best Marathi bookstore in town. Look for used paperbacks in the shops on Hong Kong Lane in Deccan Gymkhana.

For Time, Newsweek, and The Economist try any big bookstore such as Manney's, Popular, or International. Also look for Manushi, an internationally known women's magazine, at Manney‘s. India has excellent news magazines. Try India Today, Frontline, and Sahara. A stall under the Garware Flyover carries these.

Cards and Stationery

Wonderland, Dhabolkars, Waman and Dastur, or Bombay Swadeshi are all in Camp. Hotel Blue Diamond carries beautiful, if expensive, stationery. Good quality paper, notebooks, and all kinds of office supplies are available at 5 Star Stationers in Wonderland. Deepa near Vijay Talkies on Laxmi Road is recommended for its stationery. Paradkar and Co. on M.G. Road will give you special orders of cut or ruled paper. They have high quality binder paper, stationery, etc. A nice card shop is next to the petrol pump on F.C. Road. At the end of F.C. Road and University, you will find inexpensive handmade paper. A visit to the Handmade Paper Institute is also worth the trip.

Cloth

Liberty Tailors; Guru Nanak in Wonderland; Indo Foreign Clother Store and Bombay Swadeshi are both on .M.G. Road; Ramgir Tailors is opposite Indo Foreign stores in Camp. APCO, Fashion Fabrics, Gandhi Khadi, Vaibhav Saris, Kirti Cloth, Nebru Khadi, Vaishali Saree, Centre Bhandar Store, Khinvasara (for fancy saris) are all on Laxmi Road.

Film, Developing, and Cameras

Film is available in India, but it tends to be expensive. One student recommended bringing at least one roll of 1600 film for caves, temples, and night festivals. Also, bring along an extra camera battery.

For color film developing, the Bombay Kodak Lab does a good job. You can drop your film off at Waman and Dastur's Photo Store next to Dorabjeels, and they will send it to Mumbai. Hollywood Studios in Deccan Gymkhana also develops color prints in a few days. They develop color slides and prints (only E_6, not K_14). They also do fast inexpensive black and white developing. They might also buy your extra film when you leave the country. Other recommendations include Konica film store on Tilak Road, Foto Fast on Laxmi Road, Shiram Photo on Bhandarkar. Nowhere is the quality really consistent, but a 2004 participant rated Foto Fast for color prints and Hollywood Studios for black & white. If you plan to develop your own film in the U.S., carry it home. Don't trust it to the mail.

If by chance your camera goes on the blink, one student recommends K.S. Naik at Camera Craft. He makes his own camera parts and is both accommodating and fair.

Foods

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In Camp, Chandan's on M.G. Road and Dorabjee on Moledina Road also have many things not found elsewhere in Pune.

Spicer College Store in Wonderland is run by Seventh Day Adventists and sells all kinds of vegetarian treats. Banana Cake, brown bread, peanut butter, tofu, brownies, Soya Milk, and on and on. Check the bakery next to Wonderland for coconut macaroons. Also in Camp, Kayani Bakery has brown bread, pound cake and cheese-biscuits (cookies). For brown bread and goodies, check Baker’s Basket on Bhandarkar Road.

Look for the sweet shop on Karve Road near Garware College. They let you sample everything!

Next to the German Bakery is a shop that sells granola and other expensive imports. It is definitely a nice break from chai and biscuits every morning.

The Agricultural College off Ganeshkind Road sells mushrooms. Chadan's and Dorabjee's have them too, but at higher prices.

You can get wonderful fresh-roasted, fresh-ground South Indian coffee in a small shop on a side street near the Garware flyover in Deccan Gymkhana. Look for the sign that simply says "coffee." There is also The Sweet Shop near the Deccan flyover.

Cheese is available at the Sunrise Cafe in Deccan Gymkhana. Check ABC Farms on M.G. Road for all kinds of dairy products: lemon lassi, curd, mango, ice cream, and various kinds of cheese.

Food World on Bhandarkar Road has great tofu and Dakini’s in Koregoan Park (Sapphire Apt. Shop No. 1) has tofu, hummus, falafel and soya products. You should note that Dakini‘s is closed on Thursdays.

Gifts

You'll find nice things on your travels and in out-of-the-way places. But check Karachiwalla's and the Kashmiri Store in Camp for nice images, wall-hangings, carpets and jewelry. According to past students, the Mundai Market area has more inexpensive, authentic gifts. Various exhibitions are a great place to buy gifts, especially those at the Tilak Smarak Mandir when advertised. It is a good idea to check out the prices in Pune before you travel so you'll know how hard to bargain when you're on the road.

Prabha Thakar at Dimpex International has handmade batik articles. She is located at 1, Kamalbag, 1062 Gokhale Road near OM Super Market just off Ganeshkind Road.

Real perfume is available at Vithaldas Narayandas and Sons at Phadke Haud in old Pune. Try the sandlewood, mogra, and rose.

43 Dulhan Glitters is good for costume jewelry while Tulsie Bhag is recommended for bangles, bindis and knickknacks.

Medicines

There are reputable pharmacies all over the city. Try Batavia Medico in Deccan Gymkhana. On Laxmi Road try Madhar and Company. At Pune Drug Store, you can probably get what you need, including distilled water for contact lenses. You will find that many of the drugs sold only by prescription in the U.S. are available over the counter in India, so be aware of what you purchase. You can buy all kinds of vitamins in India very cheaply.

Musical Instruments

Ajmersingh & Sons on Laxmi Road is recommended for musical instruments, especially drums.

ALUMNI SUGGESTIONS FOR RESTAURANTS

Moderate

Also check out the numerous pav bhaji and juice bars on Jangli Maharaj Road. Barrista Has a young, more Western atmosphere.

Café Coffee Day Law College Road A great place to hang out. Excellent vegan shakes. Try the Tropical Iceberg.

Cafe Sunrise J.M. Road A favorite hangout. Cheap food, good service, and nice atmosphere.

Coffeehouse Camp Practically an institution. Good coffee, snacks, and meals. Vegetarian.

Darshan Prabhat Road Fruit drinks and shakes, snacks. Best banana milkshake in Pune!

Faasos A good place for lunch. Near the ACM Office.

German Bakery in Camp near Ashram Brown bread, gouda, fruit juice. Speak Marathi and you may get a discount.

44 Hot Breads across from German Nice coffee shop where you can buy Kraft Bakery Macaroni & Cheese and other Western treats. Next to Hot Breads is a cyber café where you can make international calls with a credit card.

Hotel Diwar across from F.C. Basic but good.

Laxmi Dining Hall F.C. Road The cheapest thali around. Good potato raita.

Orient Express F.C. Road For good pizza.

Panchali J.M. Road Good and fast, great cold coffee with ice cream.

Pizza Hut Good for when you‘re homesick

Poona Coffee J.M. Road Go there for good, cold beer on tap. Free House peanuts and papad.

Purab near Sambhaji Bridge, Another good thali with puris and Deccan shrikhand.

Radhika Quick bite restaurant.

Rangoli Bhandettar and Law Has good dosas. College

Roopali F.C. Road A good place to sip Indian coffee. Inexpensive snacks. Try their shrikhand, puri, and veggie burgers.

Shabree Hotel Parichay, off F.C. Maharashtrian thali served in a garden. Road

Shjivsagar J.M Road Good vegetarian food and pizza.

Shreyas Apte Road A limitless and excellent vegetarian thali.

45 Step In F.C. Road

Vaishali F.C. Road Dressed-up sister of the Roopali with a nice garden. A gathering place for college students.

Up-Scale/Expensive

Amrapali off F.C. Road Good vegetarian food.

Anarkali Karve Road Excellent.

Beijing Chinese Law College Road Fairly good Chinese food. Remember Chinese-Indian is not like Chinese- American.

The Chinese Room East Street and Karve Road Good food and fast service.

Hotel Blue Diamond near Koregaon Park A coffeeshop, bar, and plush restaurant. Go for a real splurge and dine to live Indian music. The Coffee House is open 24 hours and has Saturday and Sunday morning all-you-can-eat buffet brunch for 80 Rs.

Hotel Deccan Park off F.C. Road Good Indian and continental food.

Invitation Ganeshkind Road near Chinese/Indian, nice garden restaurant. Ashok Nagar

Khyber J.M. Road Good Indian and Continental food. Ice cream, banana splits.

Kwality's East Street, Camp A national chain with good ice cream.

Latif's East Street, Camp Western and Indian fare.

Namaskaar by F.C. Gate Great non-vegetarian.

Oyster Restaurant Off Karve Road near Difficult to find, but well worth the trip. Maruti Mandir, past the Indian Institute of Education

46 Silk Route Koregan Park Thai, Chinese & Japanese food.

Smokin’ Joe’s lane after Hotel Blue Nearly genuine American pizza. Diamond

The Place next to Manney's in Camp Great meat or vegetarian "sizzlers."

Portico J.M. Road

Ravi Raj Bhandarker Road Several restaurants and a beer garden.

Shangri_la off Law College and Karve Good Chinese and Indian food and a Roads beautiful garden.

Suzy Wong Hotel Amir near Pune Chinese food and live music. Station

Tavern M.G. Road, Aurora Towers Nice view of Pune. Hotel (2nd floor)

Venky's F.C. Road A fast food place with chicken and mutton burgers and shakes.

Viceroy F.C. Road Very good kadhai food, both vegetarian and non-vegetarian.

Non-Classified

Abhisheck Restaurant

Chinagate J.M. Road Chinese food, but the wait can be long.

Banjara Hotel Restaurant

Naturals Ice Cream Next to Webworld

Richmonds Ice F.C. Road Cream

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INDEPENDENT STUDY PROJECT GUIDELINES

1. Schedule your time. Be careful not to let the time get away from you. Set a schedule for yourself for spending certain hours each week on your ISP work.

2. Project Topics.

a. Topics are generally related in some way to your life in Pune or in Maharashtra, but you have lots of latitude within those parameters. For example, you might think about topics involving technology and development or cultural topics involving history, literature, the arts, or crafts. It is important, however, that your goal in your ISP be related to understanding an aspect of India rather than focusing on a skill—such as photography, filmmaking, fiction-writing—that you could develop in the United States. Former students have done successful photography projects, for example, but the technical aspects of the photography should be subordinated to the analytical, along with the visual, study of the subject matter. The final project must have a strong academic angle, as well as possibly including artistic or experiential elements.

b. You might find that you are interested in involving yourself in an NGO as a way of acquiring an experience to help you understand your ISP project topic in more detail. Or, as other examples, students who have studied the educational system in India have volunteered in schools, or students who are interested in studying an aspect of Indian music or dance have taken lessons. Those experiences can be a vital part of your research for the final ISP and can be built into the final project, but the ISP must also include a variety of other sources and extend beyond your own experience.

c. Keep in mind that you are writing a one-semester independent study project, not a masters‘ thesis. Your topic should be as specific as possible and feasible. Think about what you might reasonably accomplish in and around Pune with the resources available.

d. Politically and socially sensitive topics should be avoided. (Because what is considered sensitive changes from time to time, you should be guided by the advice of the Pune staff in this regard.)

3. Government rules and visa regulations. While working on your projects, you must take extreme care in adhering to Government rules and visa regulations. For example, you should avoid active participation in rallies or demonstrations, delivering political speeches, photographing sites considered militarily sensitive, etc.

4. Changing project topics. If a student finds it necessary to change the project topic, she or he should discuss this possibility with the Academic Advisor. The student must obtain approval for this change from the Academic Advisor. Each student is responsible for reporting any problems to the program staff as soon as they occur so that the program staff can respond effectively.

Project Organization

1. Proposal: Project proposals should be formulated during the Orientation term in Pune, and approved by the Academic Advisor and the ACM Coordinator in the Pune office.

2. Credits: 4 semester credit hours

3. Length of Project Report: 25-35 double-spaced typed page

4. Copies of the Project Report: Three

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5. Financial Support: Financial reimbursement for actual expenses incurred will be made to a maximum of Rs. 1,500 per student. This included costs of field work, translation, interviews, Xeroxing, purchase of source material, etc.

You are required to keep records to account for expenditures related to the project. Please keep all receipts and other records in order to be reimbursed.

Limited additional financial assistance may be extended on the basis of academic merit of the request. A request for additional funds must be made in writing and should include the academic and practical reasons that justify it.

Expenses of private lessons connected with a project will be the student‘s responsibility.

6. ACM Ownership. If source material or equipment is purchased with ACM financial assistance, it will be retained by the ACM in the program library. Students are advised to route such proposals through their guides to the ACM Project Coordinator.

7. Selection of Guides. Guides for the projects will be selected by the Academic Advisor(s) in consultation with the ACM Field Director and the ACM Coordinator. The Program Secretary will assist in this and the follow-up work, such as establishing contact with the guides.

8. Research Help. The Academic Advisor, with the assistance of the Program Secretary, will aid students in their project work, e.g. translation arrangements, field work organization, interview arrangements, etc.

9. Progress Reports. Students will submit 4 progress reports: in the middle of the Orientation term, in the middle of September, in the middle of October, and in mid-November. All students will participate in project presentations and discussions at the project retreats.

10. Submitting Final Project Report. Students must submit their final project reports to the Field Director on or before December 5, 2008. You will need to submit two additional copies with the original; in addition, you will be asked to resubmit your four Progress Reports.

11. Evaluation. Guides use the following grading system to evaluate the Final Project Reports: A/A- Degrees of Excellent B/B-/B+ Degrees of Good C/C-/C+ Degrees of Satisfactory D Passing F Failed

While specific evaluations of ISPs will vary according to the nature of the project itself, the following criteria will be considered important in the assessment of the final evaluation: A strong, well-thought out research topic/question supported by a detailed, well-written exposition/argument. A clear articulation of an academic understanding, bolstered by significant research, of the topic. An extended discussion of the cultural significance of the topic to the Pune/Maharashtra area. If the student includes an experiential component (which is optional), then the personal experiences need to be analyzed according to a theoretical framework that the student has developed.

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India Independent Study Project Guidelines for Working with Research Guide

In order for you to best learn about the topic that you have chosen, you will be assigned a local research guide who is an expert in the area of your interest. Although it is almost impossible to match you up with someone who has done specialized research in your specific topic, the guide will have expertise in your specific field.

You will be meeting with ACM‘s academic advisors and the ACM coordinating representative before you are assigned a specific guide, and your statement of interest will help them with finding an appropriate guide. In many instance, you might be asked to contact two or three people to discuss with them your interests. In that case, it would be a very good idea to get in touch with them as soon as possible and then to tell the ACM academic advisors who seems to be interested in and knowledgeable about the topic that you have chosen.

It is important to remember that the ISP in India works with a slightly different structure than an ISP that you might do on your home campus. First of all, your guide may not be a teacher, even though he/she will be someone with known expertise in your area. In other words, if you are interested in studying architecture, you might be working with an architect rather than someone who teaches architecture. It will be a unique opportunity for you to work with a professional in your field. You may, depending on your topic, be working with a local professor, and it will be important for you to remember that student/professor relationships can be much more formal in India than they are in the United States.

During the course of the program, you should consult regularly with your guide to let him/her know your progress. Your guide will be suggesting books and other activities in order for you to explore your topic thoroughly. You will also have to do your independent research to find your own sources. Keep your advisor informed about the resources that you have found on your own as well as the different directions that those resources may have taken you from your original thoughts.

In some instances, your guide might send you to other experts in the field, and you might find that those experts have a different viewpoint of certain topics than your guide. In such instances, you should explore those differences—if they are central to your topic—and attempt to understand the nature of the intellectual conflict. Those types of conflicts can add depth to your understanding of certain issues.

In shaping the final product, as opposed to exploring substance, you should rely on your guide‘s advice, along with, during the course of the semester, providing your guide with a context of what you have done, so that he/she can best evaluate your topic.

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