©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 505

Index

ABBREVIATIONS drinking 177-9 amphibians 442-3 B B entertainment 177-9 Aného 371-2 Bâ, Amadou Hampaté 402 BF food 177 animals, see individual baboons 441, 15 C Cameroon shopping 179 animals, wildlife Bafatá 215 CV Cape Verde sights 171-5 animism 405 Bafoussam 92 CI Côte d’Ivoire tourist information 180 Anomabu 183 Bafut 92 Gam Gambia, The tours 176 antelopes 440 Baía das Gatas 117 Gha travel to/within 180-1 Arabic 490-2 Ballabu Conservation Gui Guinea Achebe, Chinua 401 22, 425 Project 164 GB Guinea-Bissau activities 453-5, see also books 428 Bambara peoples 429-30 L Liberia individual activities, Burkina Faso 64, 71, 2 Bamenda 90-1, 91 locations M Mali Morocco 288-9 Bamessing 91 Adanwomase 193 Mia Mauritania Nigeria 312 Banana Islands 357-8 Adichie, Chimamanda Mor Morocco Togo 375 Banfora 68 Ngozi 401 N Arquipélago dos Bijagós 17, Banjul 154-6, adinkra cloth 193, 421-2 154 Nia Nigeria 213-14, 17 baobabs 440 Adjara 45 S Senegal art galleries 38, 122, 144, Baoulé peoples 430 Adrar, The 245-8 147, 302-3, 321, see also SL Sierra Leone Bassa peoples 230 Agadir 269-72 museums T Togo bathrooms 464 Agbodrafo 371 arts & craftwork 12, 420-8, beach boys 169 AIDS 484 12, see also individual beaches 12, 20, 455 A air travel 19, 467-8, 472, 473 arts, locations (Gha) 171 Abeokuta 308 airlines 468, 472 books 385, 426, 427 Akwidaa (Gha) 189 Abidjan 138-43, 140, 142 airports 467-8 arts centres 93, 157, 190, 321, 329, 337, 339 Assinie (CI) 146 accommodation 139 Burkina Faso 75 Ashanti peoples 429 Boa Vista (CV) 126 drinking & nightlife 141 Cameroon 104, 105 Assinie 146 Buchanan (L) 227 food 139-41 Cape Verde 135, 136 Assomada 112 Cap Skiring (S) 343-5 shopping 141-2 Côte d’Ivoire 150-1, 151 Atakora region 16, 50-1 Dakar (S) 325 sights 138-9 Gambia, The 169 Atakpamé 373-4 Freetown (SL) 12, 351, tourist information 142-3 Ghana 202 Atâr 245-6 356-7, 12 travel to/within 143 Guinea-Bissau 218 Atlantic Coast (Mia) 243-5 Gambia, The 161 Abomey 48-9 Liberia 232-3 Atlantic Coast (Mor) 262-72 Harper (L) 229 Abono 193 Mauritania 252-3, 253 Atlantic Coast & Serekunda Ilha de Bubaque (GB) 214 Abouzeid, Rabati Leila 402 Morocco 292, 293 (Gam) 156-64, 158-9 Kribi (C) 93-4 Abuja 312 Nigeria 319 accommodation 157-61 Limbe (C) 87 Abuko Nature Reserve 164 Senegal 347-8 activities 156-7 Lomé (T) 371 accommodation 452-3, see Sierra Leone 363 drinking & nightlife 162-3 Maio (CV) 129 also individual locations Togo 378 food 161-2 Mindelo (CV) 113, 116-17 language 491, 493, 495 to/from West 467-8 shopping 163 Monrovia (L) 226 Accra 171-81, 174-5, 178, 413 within 472 sights 156-7 Nouakchott (Mia) 241 accommodation 176-7 Aïsha 246 tourist information 163 Quinhámel (GB) 215 activities 171-81 Aït Benhaddou 285 tours 157 safety 169, 450 Akosombo 181-2 travel to/within 163-4 Santa Maria (CV) 124, 125 Akwidaa 189 ATMs 459 São Filipe (CV) 122 Map Pages 000 Amedzofe 182 Ayoûn el-Atroûs 248 Sassandra (CI) 146 Photo Pages 000 amoebic dysentery 488 Varela (GB) 215 506 beads 423-4, 424 Cameroon 105 bronze 427 Togo 379 Ben Amira 246 Cape Verde 116, 136 Brufut 164-5 within West Africa 474-6 ben Jelloun, Tahar 402 Gambia, The 169 Buba 215 bushbucks 440, 438 Benin 32, 36-56, 37 Guinea-Bissau 219 Buchanan 227-8 bushwalking, see hiking accommodation 36, 53 Morocco 293 budget 19, see also business hours 19, see also arts & craftwork 53 Nigeria 319 individual locations individual locations INDEX INDEX budgeting 38 Sierra Leone 363-4 Buea 86-7 Busua 188-9 business hours 54 Bobo peoples 430-1 buffaloes 440 Butre 188 climate 36 Bobo-Dioulasso 64-7, 66, 2 bumsters 169

B-C Bunce Island 358  culture 52 Boca de Coruja 119 C Burkina Faso 32, 57-75, drinking 53 bogolan cloth 422 Cactus silk 423 58-9, 395, 434 embassies 53 Boko Haram 304, 312, 451 Caine Prize for African environment 53 Bolgatanga 195-6 accommodation 57, 73 Writing 402 arts & craftwork 73 food 36, 53, 399 books 400-3, see also Calabar 310-12 budgeting 65 highlights 37 individual locations Calhau 116 business hours 74 history 52 architecture 428 Calheta 129 climate 57 holidays 54 arts & craftwork 385, calligraphy 427 426, 427 drinking 73 internet access 54 camels 245, 247, 248, children 456 economy 71 money 54 285, 290 cooking 398 embassies 74 opening hours 54 Cameroon 32, 76-105, 78-9 driving 469 environment 73 planning 36 accommodation 76, 103 environmental issues food 57, 73 politics 51-2 activities 103 446 highlights 58-9 population 52 arts & craftwork 102 festivals 435 history 72 religion 52-3 budgeting 77 health 483 holidays 74 safety 54, 451 business hours 103 history 181, 385, 387, internet access 74 slavery 45 climate 76 388, 391, 437 money 74 telephone services 54 culture 101-2 jewellery 420, 423 opening hours 74 tours 56 drinking 102 music 413, 418 planning 57 travel seasons 36 embassies 103 Nigeria 316 politics 71 travel to/within 55-6 emergencies 103 religion 405, 409, 410 population 73 visas 54-5 environment 102 Sierra Leone 361 religion 73 women travellers 55 festivals 103 slavery 391 safety 74, 451 Benin City, Nigeria 310 food 76, 102 textiles 421, 422 telephone services 74 Berber peoples 430 highlights 78-9 wildlife 439 travel seasons 57 Berlin Conference 391, 393 history 101 women 396, 397 travel to/within 75 Bertoua 100 holidays 104 border crossings 468-9 visas 74-5 Beti, Mongo 402 internet access 103 Algeria 470, 471 bus travel 19, 474-6, 479, bicycle travel, see cycling money 103 Benin 51, 55 see also minibus opening hours 103 biodiversity 441 Burkina Faso 75 travel planning 76 birds 441-2 Cameroon 104-5 Benin 56 politics 100-1 bird-watching Central African Republic Burkina Faso 75 postal services 104 Cape Verde 126 470 Cameroon 105 safety 104, 451 Gambia, The 164, 166 Chad 469 Côte d’Ivoire 151 sports 102 Mauritania 245 Congo 470 Ghana 203 telephone services 104 Nigeria 313 Côte d’Ivoire 151 Liberia 233 tours 97 Senegal 336, 340 Liberia 233 Morocco 293 travel seasons 76 Bissau 209-13, 210 Libya 470 Togo 379 travel to/within 104-5 black market 459 Mauritania 253 within West Africa blacksmiths 424, 426 Morocco 292 474-6 visas 104 Bo 359 Nigeria 319 bush taxi travel 19, 474-6 Campo 95 Boa Vista 126-8 Senegal 348 Benin 55-6 Canhabaque 214, 17 boat travel 471, 474, see Sierra Leone 363 Burkina Faso 75 canoeing 195 also canoeing, pirogue Togo 379 Côte d’Ivoire 151 canyons 286 travel Western Sahara 470 Gambia, The 169 Cap Skiring 10, 343-5, 11 Boukombé 50 Liberia 233 Cape Bojador 387 brass 427 Mauritania 253-4 Cape Coast 183-6, 184 Map Pages 000 Brava 128 Nigeria 319 Cape Point 161 Photo Pages 000 bread 399, 399 Sierra Leone 364 Cape Three Points 189 507 Cape Verde 33, 106-36, 107 Casablanca 266-7, 268 business hours 150 internet access 331 accommodation 106, 133 Casamance 340-5, 342-3 climate 137 medical services 331 activities 133-4 castles, see also forts culture 149 money 331 arts & craftwork 131-2 (Gha) drinking 149 safety 331 books 134 183-4, 186-7 electricity 150 sights 321-5 budgeting 108 Osu Castle (Gha) 171 embassies 149-50 telephone services 331

climate 106 St George’s Castle (Gha) emergency services 149 tourist information 331-2 INDEX culture 131 186, 13, 387 environment 149 travel to/within 332-3 drinking 132-3 cathedrals, see churches festivals 150 Dakhla 272 -electricity 135 cell phones 18, 463-4 food 137, 149 Dan peoples 431  C embassies 134 Ceuta 261 health 150 dance 65, 144, 207, 355,  E emergency services 134 Chã da Igreja 118-19 highlights 138 415, 421, 435 environment 132 Chefchaouen 260-3, 262-3 history 148-9 dangers, see safety festivals 134 children, travel with 455-6 holidays 150 Dapaong 375 food 106, 132-3 chimpanzees 227, 311, 358, languages 150 deep vein thrombosis 483 highlights 107 359, 440 money 150 deforestation 445-6 history 130-1 Chinguetti 247 opening hours 150 dengue fever 484 holidays 134 cholera 484 planning 137 desert expeditions 453-4 internet access 134 Christianity 409-10, 434 politics 148 desertification 446-7 internet resources 134 churches safety 150, 451 diamonds 360 language 135 Cathedrale St Paul, telephone services 150 diarrhoea 488-9 Abidjan 139 maps 134 travel seasons 137 diphtheria 484 First United Methodist money 134 travel to/within 150-1 disabilities, travellers Church, Monrovia 222 planning 106 visas 150 with 464 St John’s Maroon diving 124, 126, 133, 454 politics 130 Church, Freetown 351 Cotonou 38-43, 40-1 Dixcove 188 population 131 São Francisco monastery accommodation 38-9 Djingliya 99 postal services 134 & church, Cidade drinking & nightlife 40-1 Doe, Samuel 230 religion 131 Velha 111 food 39 Dogon peoples 431-2 responsible tourism 133 Cidade Velha 111 safety 42 Dômes de Fabedougou 68 safety 134-5, 451 cinema 382, 403-4 shopping 41-2 slavery 130 Burkina Faso 403 sights 38 Douala 83-6, 84-5 telephone services 135 Fespaco 404 travel to/within 43 Drâa Valley 285-6 travel seasons 106 Liberia 231 coupé-decalé 144 drinking 397-9, see also individual locations travel to/within 135-6 Mali 403 courses 184-5 language 491, 493-4, visas 135 Morocco 285, 404 Cova 119 496 women travellers 135 music 411, 415, 419 craftwork, see arts & driving, see car & car & motorcycle travel 19, Nigeria 404 craftwork motorcycle travel 468, 469, 476-8 Senegal 403, 404 credit cards 461 driving licences 477 Benin 56 climate 18, 23-5, see also Creek Town 311 drought 442 Burkina Faso 75 individual locations crocodiles 156-7, 196, dunes 286 Cameroon 105 climate change 467 442-3 dye pits 313 Cape Verde 136 cocoa 193 Cruzinha 119 driving licences 477 conservation 447-8, see culture 394-9, 405-10, Gambia, The 169 also parks & wildlife 429-36, see also E reserves, wildlife individual peoples Ghana 203 Ebodjé 95 sanctuaries Curral Velho 126, 131 hire 476-7 Ebolowa 94 consulates 457, see also currencies 18, 19, 460 insurance 469, 478 economy 382-3, see also individual locations customs regulations 456 individual locations Liberia 233 cooking cycling 453, 472-4 Ejiro, Chico 403 Mauritania 253 books 398 electricity 457, see also Morocco 293 courses 184-5 individual locations Nigeria 319 costs, see budget D elephants 195, 313, 359, road distance chart 477 Dakar 10, 321-33, , Côte d’Ivoire 33, 137-51, 324 360, 439-40, 446 326-7, 330-1, 4, 10 rules 478 138 Elinkine 343 accommodation 325-8 safety 450-1, 478 accommodation 137, 149 Elmina 186-7 activities 325 Sierra Leone 356, 364 activities 149 embassies 457, see also Togo 379 arts & craftwork 149 arts 329 individual locations carnets 468 books 149 drinking & nightlife embroidery 423 329-30 cars mouride travel 348 budgeting 139 Emecheta, Buchi 401 food 328-9 508 emergencies, see also Durbar (Nia) foufou 398 Ganvié 44 individual locations 313-14 Foumban 92-3 Gaoua 69-70 language 491-2, 494, Kriol Jazz Festival (CV) Freetown 350-6, 352-3, gardens 496 108 354, 12 Botanic Gardens, Bakau environmental issues Lantern Parade (SL) 362 accommodation 352 (Gam) 156 437-48 Le Festival International activities 351 Botanical Gardens,

INDEX INDEX Epic of Sundiata, The de Théâtre Amateur drinking & nightlife 355 Limbe (C) 87 387, 400 (Mor) 259 food 352-5 Centre Songhai (B) 44 Erg Chebbi 286 Les Fanals (S) 337 shopping 355-6 Cotton Tree, Freetown Erg Chigaga 286 Mardi Gras (CV) 23-4,

E-G (SL) 351  sights 351 Espargos 125-6 113, 134 Jardin Majorelle (Mor)

tourist information 356  Espinho Branco 112 Mindelact Festival 280 (CV) 114 travel to/within 356 Essaouira 267-9, 270-1 Garoua 97 Odwira festival (Gha) 191 French 493-5 etiquette 397 Garoua-Boulaï 100 Roots International fufu 398 food 398 gay travellers 457 Festival (Gam) 168 Fula peoples 432-3, photography 462 431 gazelles 440 Saint-Louis Jazz Festival European explorers 391 (S) 337 Gbarnga 228 events 23-5, see also Tabaski (C) 93, 462-3 G geography 437-48 festivals Gabú 215 Fête des Masques (BF) 65 geology 437-48 Évora, Cesária 132 Gambia, The 33, 152-69, Fêtes des Masques (CI) 23 Georgetown, see Ewe peoples 432 153, 443 Janjangbureh Fez 273-7, 274, 276-7 exchange rates 459 accommodation 152, 168 Ghana 33, 170-203, filariasis 484 explorers, European 391 activities 168 172-3, 13 films, see cinema arts & craftwork 12, 157, accommodation 170, fishing 134, 157, 165, 454 167, 12 200 F flamingos 340 budgeting 155 arts & craftwork 199 Fajã d’Agua 128 Fogo 120-4 business hours 168 books 181 female genital mutilation food 397-9, see also climate 152 budgeting 171 250, 396 individual locations culture 167 business hours 201 Fespaco 23, 60, 404 books 398 drinking 167 climate 170 Festival of World Sacred cooking courses 184-5 electricity 168 consulates 200 Music 24 etiquette 398 festivals 23-5, see also embassies 168 drinking 200 language 491, 493-4, economy 197 individual locations 496 emergency services 168 electricity 201 Baía das Gatas Festival vegetarian travellers 100, environment 167-8 (CV) 113 167, 289, 298 festivals 168 embassies 200 Carnaval, Bissau (GB) football 102, 358 food 163, 167 emergency services 200 209 forests 441, 447-8 highlights 153 etiquette 200 Carnival, Ribeira Brava history 166-7 festivals 200-1 (CV) 129 Bijilo Forest Park (Gam) 157 holidays 169 food 170, 200 Evala (T) 374 Forêt de Kou (BF) 67 internet access 168 highlights 172-3 Fespaco (BF) 23, 60, 404 Forêt de Fathala (S) 336 languages 168 history 197-8 Festival des Divinités holidays 201 Noires (T) 372 Gola Forest Reserve money 168 (SL) 360 internet access 201 Fête de l’Abissa (CI) 150 opening hours 168 Kpalimé area (T) 372 language 201 Fête des Masques parks & wildlife reserves money 201 (BF) 65 Makasutu Culture Forest 152 (Gam) 164 Fête du Dipri (CI) 150 planning 152 music 199, 413 Parc National de Taï politics 166 opening hours 201 Fêtes des Masques (CI) 147 (CI) 23 population 167 planning 170 Sapo National Park safety 169, 451 politics 197 Fez Festival of World (L) 228 Sacred Music (Mor) slavery 165, 166 population 199 forts 13, 186 273 telephone services 169 religion 199 Fort James (Gam) 165 Gamboa Music Festival tourist information 169 safety 201, 451 Fort Metal Cross (Gha) (CV) 108 travel seasons 152 188 slavery 183-4, 186, 197 Gnaoua & World Music travel to/within 169 telephone services 201 Festival (Mor) 268 Fort William (Gha) 183 visas 169 Fortaleza d’Amura (GB) tourist information 201-2 209 Gambia is Good Farm travel seasons 170 Yard 163 Fortaleza Real de São travel to/within 202-3 Map Pages 000 Filipe (CV) 111 Gambia River 166, 388, visas 202 443 Photo Pages 000 Ghana 186, 13, 387 volunteering 202 509 giardiasis 488 Hausa peoples 433 internet resources 19 L Gnassingbé, Faure 376 health 481-9 cycling 474 La Mare aux Poissons Gola Forest Reserve 360, books 483 environmental issues Sacrés 67-8 445 insurance 481 439, 448 Laâyoune 272 goldwork 424 internet resources 482-3 health 482-3 Lagos 302-9, 302, 306-7, golf 227 services 483 music 414, 416, 419 308-9 gorges 286 vaccinations 482 safety 450 accommodation 303 INDEX gorillas 440 heat exhaustion 488 iron-work 385, 426 activities 302-3 Grand Bassam 17, 143-5, heatstroke 488 Islam 406-9 drinking & nightlife

145, 17 Hepatitis A 484 itineraries 26-31 304-5 G -  Grand Popo 47 Hepatitis B 484 food 303-4  L griots 412, 416, 435 High Atlas Mountains 284-5 sights 302-3 Guet N’Dar 337 J tourist information 305 hiking 22, 454 Jalay’s Town 228, 17 Guinea 204-7, travel to/within 306-8 205 Burkina Faso 71 James Island 165 culture 206-7 lakes & lagoons Cameroon 87, 103 Janjangbureh 166 history 206 Akosombo (Gha) 181 Cape Verde 14, 108, 117, jelis 412, 435 music 206-7 Buba (GB) 215 128, 14 Jemberem 216 politics 205-6 Elmina (Gha) 187 Côte d’Ivoire 148 Jenné-Jeno 393 safety 451 Lac Rose (S) 334 Morocco 284-5, 286, 290 jet lag 483 Guinea-Bissau 33, 208-19, Mt Fogo 121 Lac Togo (T) 371 jewellery 423-4, 424 209 Sierra Leone 358-9 Lake Ahémé (B) 47-8 Joal-Fadiout 335 accommodation 208, 218 Togo 372 Lake Bosumtwe (Gha) Johnson-Sirleaf, Ellen 229 activities 218 hippopotamuses 196-7, 214, 193-4 Jonathan, Goodluck 304, arts & craftwork 217 359, 440-1 Lake Nyos (C) 92 315-16 budgeting 212 history 384-93, see also Municipal Lake (C) 94 Jos 312-13 business hours 218 individual locations, Palmarin (S) 335 Jufureh 165 climate 208 slavery Tengréla Lake (BF) 68 culture 216-17 Almoravids 385 landscapes 20-1, 437 drinking 217 Empire of Ghana 385 K languages 18, 490-501, see electricity 219 Empire of Mali 386 Kano 313-14 also individual locations embassies 218 Empire of Songhaï 386-7 Kara 374-5 Laye, Camara 402 environment 217 Europeans 388-92 Keita, Salif 413, 417 leatherwork 298 festivals 218 independence 392-3 Keita, Sundiata 387, 390 legal matters 459 food 208, 217 manuscripts 390 Kenema 360 leptospirosis 484-5 health 218 hitching 478-9 kente cloth 200, 421 lesbian travellers 457 highlights 209 HIV 484 Kere 214 Liberia 33, 220-33, 221 history 216 holidays 462-3, see also Khoran, see Quran accommodation 220, 231 individual locations holidays 218 kidnappings 235, 296, arts & craftwork 231 homestays 328 318, 451 internet access 218 books 231 horse-riding 144, 193 Kiffa 248 language 219 budgeting 222 kitesurfing 117, 124, 133-4, money 218 business hours 232 454-5 opening hours 218 cinema 231 I Kokrobite 183 planning 208 Ibadan 309-10 climate 220 Korhogo cloth 423 politics 216 Igbo peoples 433 consulates 231 Koro 67-8 population 217 Île de Gorée 333-4 culture 230 Kotu 161 postal services 218 Île De Karabane 343 drinking 231 Kou 67 safety 213, 451 Ilha de Bolama 214 electricity 232 Koumi 67 telephone services 218 Ilha de Bubaque 214 embassies 231-2 Kourouma, Ahmadou 402 travel seasons 208 Imlil 285 environment 231 Koussoukoingou 50 visas 218 immigration 464-5, 467 food 220, 231 Koutammakou 375 Gunjur 165 independence 392-3 health 231 Koza 99 indigo cloth 313, 423 highlights 221 Kpalimé 14, 372-3, insect bites 488 14 history 229-30 Kpelle peoples 230 H insurance 457-8, 478 holidays 232 Habila, Helon 401 Kribi 93-4 car 469, 478 language 232 290 health 481 Kumasi 189-93, 190 money 231 Harbel 227 travel 457-8 Kumbo 92 opening hours 232 Harper 228-9 internet access 458, see Kuti, Fela 304, 305 planning 220 Hausa language 497-8 also individual locations Kuti, Seun 415 politics 229 510 Liberia continued Cotonou (B) 38 Mediterranean Coast emergency services 290 population 230 Dakar (S) 329 258-62 environment 289 safety 232 Foumban (C) 92 Meknès 276-9, 280 festivals 290-1 telephone services 232 Kano (Nia) 313 meningococcal meningitis food 255, 289 travel seasons 220 Kumasi (Gha) 189 486 gay travellers 290 travel to/within 232-3 Lagos (Nia) 303 Mernissi, Fatima 402 highlights 256-7

INDEX INDEX visas 232 Lomé (T) 367 Merzouga 286 history 287-8 libraries 247, 248 Mindelo (CV) 113 millet 398 holidays 291 lighthouses 112, 126, Nouakchott (Mia) 240 Mindelo 112-16, 114 internet access 291

L 229, 325 accommodation 114-15  -M Palmeira (CV) 125 language 291 activities 113 Limbe 87-9, 88 Praia (CV) 108 lesbian travellers 290  literature, see books Maroua 97-9, 98 drinking & nightlife 116 money 291 Lobi peoples 70, 433-4 Marrakesh 15, 279-84, festivals 113-14 music 289 Lomé 367-71, 368 282, 15 food 115-16 opening hours 291 accommodation 367-9 accommodation 280-1 sights 113 planning 255, 259 drinking 370 drinking 281 tourist information 116 politics 287 entertainment 370 food 281 minibus travel 475 population 288 food 369-70 shopping 281-2 Cape Verde 136 postal services 291 safety 370 sights 279-80 Côte d’Ivoire 151 safety 291-2, 451 shopping 370 tourist information 282-3 Gambia, The 169 telephone services 292 sights 367 travel to/within 283-4 Ghana 203 tourist information 292 tourist information 370-1 Marshall 227 Mauritania 253-4 travel seasons 255 travel to/within 371 masks 231, 420, 421, 430 Nigeria 319 travel to/within 292-3 Mauritania 13, 34, 238-54, Missirah 336-7 visas 292 239, 2 mobile phones 18, 463-4 women travellers 292 M accommodation 238, 251 Mognori 195 M’hamid 286 mosaics 428 activities 251 Mole National Park 15, 195, Maal, Baaba 414, 418 arts & craftwork 250 444, 15, 438, 446 Maga 99 Ali ben Youssef budgeting 242 money 18, 19, 458-61, see (Mor) 279 Maio 128-9 business hours 251 also individual locations Grand Mosque, Makasutu Culture moneychangers 461 Saint-Louis (S) 337 Forest 164 climate 238 monk seals 441 Grande Mosquée, Makeni 358 culture 250 drinking 250-1 monkeys 182, 311, 359, Bobo-Dioulasso (BF) malaria 485-6, 485 440, 64, economy 249 2 2 Mali 234-7, 235 Monrovia 221-6, Grande Mosquée, electricity 252 224-5 arts 236-7 accommodation 222-3 Chefchaouen (Mor) 261 embassies 251 culture 236-7 drinking & nightlife Grande Mosquée, environment 251 history 236 224-6 Nouakchott (Mia) food 238, 250-1 239-40 politics 235-6 food 223-4 highlights 239 Hassan II Mosque (Mor) population 237 safety 226 history 249-50 266 safety 451 shopping 226 holidays 252 Kairaouine Mosque Malinké peoples 434-5 sights 222 internet access 252 (Mor) 273 Mamelles, Les 325 tourist information 226 language 252 Koutoubia Mosque Man 147-8 travel to/within 226 (Mor) 279 money 252 manatees 441 Moors 250 Larabanga (Gha) 195 opening hours 251 maps 458 Mora 99 Tamale (Gha) 194 planning 238 Mar Lodj 335-6 Morocco 34, 255-93, 256-7 Wa (Gha) 196 population 250 Mardi Gras 23-4, 113, 134 accommodation 255, Mossi peoples 435 safety 252 markets 290 motion sickness 483 slavery 251 Accra (Gha) 171, 179 activities 290 motorcycle taxi travel 479 telephone services 252 Atlantic Coast & architecture 288-9 Benin 56 tours 254 Serekunda (Gam) 163 books 402 Nigeria 319 travel seasons 238 Banfora (BF) 68 budgeting 260 Sierra Leone 356 travel to/within 252 Banjul (Gam) 154 business hours 291 motorcycle travel, see car visas 252, 253 Bolgatanga (Gha) 195 climate 255 & motorcycle travel women travellers 252 culture 288 Moulay Idriss 279 Mbour 335 drinking 289 mountains medical services 483 Map Pages 000 electricity 291 High Atlas Mountains medicine, traditional 489 Photo Pages 000 embassies 290 (Mor) 284-5 511 Jebel Toubkal (Mor) Musée National, mbalax 419 climate 299 284-5 Nouakchott (Mia) morna 132, 412, 416-17 culture 316 Kediet Ijill (Mia) 251 240-1 Morocco 289 drinking 316 La Dent de Man (CI) 148 Musée Régional de New Afrika Shrine 16, electricity 318 Natitingou (B) 49 Mandara Mountains 304, 16 embassies 316 Musée Théodore Monod (C) 99 Nigeria 305, 316 (S) 321 environment 316 Mount Verde (CV) 116 rap 414, 419 festivals 317-18 INDEX Mt Agou (T) 372 Museu Etnográfico de Praia (CV) 108 reggae 419 food 316 Mt Bintumani (SL) 358-9 Museu Municipal, São Saint-Louis Jazz Festival highlights 300-1 Mt Cameroon (C) 87 Filipe (CV) 122 337 history 315  M-O Mt Fogo (CV) 121 Museum of Traditional Senegal 346, 419 holidays 318  Mt Klouto (T) 372 Nigerian Architecture Super Mama Djombo 217 internet access 317 Mt Nimba (L) 228 (Nia) 312 Togo 377 language 318 Mt Nlonako (C) 442 National Cultural Centre Wassoulou 419 money 317 (Gha) 190 Mt Tonkoui (CI) 148 opening hours 317 National Museum, Accra Sindou Peaks (BF) 14, planning 299 69, 14 (Gha) 176 N N’Gaoundéré 95-7, 96 politics 315-16 museums National Museum, Banjul national parks, see parks & postal services 317 Calabar Museum (Nia) (Gam) 155 wildlife reserves safety 304, 312, 318-19 311 National Museum, Benin Natitingou 49-50, telephone services 318 Dar Jamaï Museum City (Nia) 310 16 (T) 278 National Railway nature reserves, see parks tipping 317 & wildlife reserves Espace Doual’art (C) 83 Museum, Freetown travel seasons 299 (SL) 351 Ndangane 335-6 Gidan Makama Museum travel to/within 319 (Nia) 313 Nejjarine Museum of Néma 248 visas 318 Wooden Arts & Crafts New Afrika Shrine 16, Nkrumah, Kwame 171, IFAN Historical Museum (Mor) 273 (S) 333 304, 16 197-8, 393, 390 Old American Legation newspapers Nouâdhibou 243-5 IFAN Museum, Museum (Mor) 259 Saint-Louis (S) 337 Benin 54 Prempeh II Jubilee Nouakchott 239-43, 240 Burkina Faso 74 Jos National Museum Museum (Gha) 189 accommodation 241-2 (Nia) 312 Cameroon 103 Sierra Leone National activities 239-41 Kalakuta Republic Museum (SL) 351 Cape Verde 135 drinking 242 Museum (Nia) 303 Slavery Museum (Gam) Côte d’Ivoire 150 entertainment 242-3 Museum (Mor) 165 Gambia, The 168 259 food 242 music 21-2, 411-19, , Ghana 201 Liberia National Museum 21 shopping 243 see also individual Guinea-Bissau 219 (L) 222 sights 239-41 locations Liberia 232 Maison des Esclaves tourist information 243 Afrobeat 305, 416 (S) 333 Mauritania 252 travel to/within 243 Afropop 413 Manhyia Palace Museum Morocco 291 Nova Sintra 128 Cameroon 418-19 (Gha) 190-1 Nigeria 318 Ntonso 193 Musée Communal Cape Verde 416-17 Senegal 347 Sogossira Sanon coupé-decalé 144 Sierra Leone 362 (BF) 64 drumming 412, 415, Niansogoni 69 O , oases 13 Musée d’Art Camerounais 10 413 Niger 295-8, 296 (C) 77 okada travel, see Évora, Cesária 132 culture 297-8 Musée d’Histoire de motorcycle taxi travel festivals 60 drinking 298 Ouidah (B) 45-6 Okri, Ben 401, 426 Ghana 199, 418 environment 298, 442 Musée da Silva (B) 44 Olumo Rock 308 griots 412, 416, 435 food 298 Musée de la Musique Guinea-Bissau 417-18 onchocerciasis 486 (BF) 60 history 297 gumbe 412, 417-18 opening hours 19, see also Musée de Poni (BF) 69 politics 297 individual locations highlife 418 Musée Ethnographique safety 451 Orango Islands National hip-hop 416, 419 de Porto Novo (B) 44 slavery 296 Park 214, 445 instruments 414-16 Musée Historique Niger river 439 Oshogbo 310 jelis 412, 435 d’Abomey (B) 48 Nigeria 34, 299-319, 300-1, Osun Sacred Grove 310 juju 418 Musée Honmé (B) 44 431 Ouadâne 247-8 Kuti, Fela 304, 305 Musée National du accommodation 316 Ouagadougou 60-4, 62-3 Costume, Grand Maal, Baaba 414, 418 books 401 accommodation 60-1 Bassam (CI) 144 makossa 418-19 budgeting 303 drinking 61-2 Musée National, Abidjan Mali 237 business hours 317 entertainment 61-2 (CI) 139 Mauritania 250 512 Ouagadougou continued Mole National Park Takamanda National R Park (C) 444 festivals 60 (Gha) 15, 195, 444, 15, Rabat 262-6, 264-5 , food 61 438 446 Tanji River Bird Reserve rabies 486 Orango Islands National (Gam) 444 getting to/from 63-4 Rabil 126 Park (GB) 214, 445 Tiwai Island Wildlife shopping 62 radio 413 Outamba-Kilimi National Sanctuary (SL) 445 sights 60 Park (SL) 359, 445 religion 383, 405-10, see

INDEX INDEX Wechiau Community tourist information 63 also individual Parc de Sarakawa (T) 374 Hippo Sanctuary travel to/within 63-4 locations, religions Parc National de Campo- (Gha) 196-7, 444 reptiles 442-3 Oualâta 248-9 Ma’an (C) 95, 444 Yankari National Park & O- reserves, see parks  Ouidah 45-6, 399 Parc National de Fazao- (Nia) 313, 445 S wildlife reserves  Oukaïmeden 285 Malfakassa (T) 445 passports 464-5, 467 Rhumsiki 99, 100 Oussouye 341-3 Parc National de la Paúl 119-20 Langue de Barbarie Pedra do Lume 125 Ribeira Brava 129 (S) 445 Petite Côte 334-7 Ribeira Grande 118-19 P Parc National de la rice 398 Paga 196 Peugeot taxi travel, see Pendjari (B) 51, 444 sept place travel Rick’s Café 267 palaces Parc National de Niokolo- photography 461-2 Ring Road 13, 91-2, 13 Dar el-Makhzen (Mor) 273 Koba (S) 340, 445 pirogue travel 10, 474, 11 riz sauce 398 Fon’s Palace (C) 92, 13 Parc National de Taï (CI) Gambia, The 157, 164 road safety 478 Moro-Naba Palace 147, 444 Ghana 187 Robertsport 227, 21 (BF) 60 Parc National de Waza rock climbing 358, 454 Palais de la Bahia (Mor) (C) 444 Guinea-Bissau 214, 215 Route des Pêches 43 279-80 Parc National des Senegal 11, 325, 335-6, Palais du Lamido (C) 95 Oiseaux du Djoudj (S) 340, 11 Route du Hoggar 470 Palais Royal (C) 92 340, 445 Togo 371 Route du Tanezrouft 470 Palmarin 335 Parc National Diawling planning, see also individual Route of Kings 48 (Mia) 249 locations Parc National de Taï 147, Rubane 214 444 Parc National du Banc budgeting 19 Rui Vaz 112 d’Arguin (Mia) 245, parks & wildlife reserves calendar of events 23-5 445 443-5, see also wildlife children, travel with 455-6 sanctuaries Parc National du Delta internet resources 19 S du Saloum (S) 336, Sabga Hill 91 Abuko Nature Reserve itineraries 26-31 445 safaris 439 (Gam) 164 travel seasons 18, 23-5 Parc National du Haut Afi Mountain Drill Ranch Burkina Faso 71 Niger (Gui) 444 West Africa basics 18-19 (Nia) 445 Cameroon 97 Parc National du Waza West Africa’s countries Ankasa Nature Reserve Cape Verde 108 (C) 99-100 32-4 (Gha) 444 Gambia, The 157 Parc Regional du W (B, plants 441, 442 Bijilo Forest Park (Gam) Ghana 15, 195 BF, N) 444 plaques 427 157 Liberia 226 Parque Nacional do Pô 70 Gashaka-Gumti National Catanhez (GB) 445 Morocco 290 Park (Nia) 314-15, 445 poliomyelitis 486 Parque Natural de Can- safety 450-1, see also Gola Forest Reserve (SL) politics 382-3, see also tanhez (GB) 216 individual locations 360, 445 individual locations Parque Natural dos beach boys 169 João Viera e Poilão Ponta do Sol 118 Tarrafes do Rio hitching 478-9 National Marine Park population 383, 429-36, Cacheu (GB) 445 internet resources 450 (GB) 214 see also individual Parque Natural Serra da kidnappings 235, 296, Kachikally Crocodile Pool locations Malagueta (CV) 112 318, 451 (Gam) 156-7 Porto Madeira 112 Poilão National Marine road 478 Kakum National Park Porto Novo 43-5, 118 Park (GB) 444 (Gha) 186, 444 Portuguese 495-7 Sahara desert 13, 437-8, 7 Ranch de Nazinga (BF) Kiang West National Possotomé 47-8 Sahel, the 72, 438-9 444 Park 444 postal services 462 sailing 124 Réserve de Biosphere du Korup National Park Saint-Louis 337-40, Dja (C) 444 Povoação 119 338 (C) 444 Sal 124-6 Réserve de Douentza Povoaçao Velha 126 Limbe Wildlife Centre (M) 445 Praia 108-11, 110 Salamansa 117 (C) 444 Réserve de Nazinga public holidays 462-3 Saly 335 Makasutu Culture Forest (BF) 70-1 San Pédro 146 (Gam) 164 Réserve Satellite du Cap Santa Luzia 116 Blanc (Mia) 244 Q Santa Maria 124-5 Quinhámel 215 Map Pages 000 Sapo National Park (L) Santiago 107-11, 112 Quran 407-8, 406 Photo Pages 000 17, 228, 445 Santo Antão 14, 117-20, 14 513 Sanyang 165 Sierra Leone 34, 349-64, statues 427 highlights 366 São Filipe 122-4 350 street names 43 history 376 São Nicolau 129 accommodation 349, 362 Super Mama Djombo 217 holidays 378 São Vicente 111-17 budgeting 351 surfing 188, 227, 351, internet access 377 Sapo National Park 17, business hours 362 454-5, 21 language 378 228, 445 climate 349 swimming 455 money 377

Sassandra 146 consulates 362 opening hours 378 INDEX scams 451 culture 361 T planning 365 schistosomiasis 487 drinking 361-2 Tabaski 462 politics 376 -scuba diving 124, 126,  S electricity 362 Tacheddirt 285 population 376-7 T  454 ,133 embassies 362 Tafi Abuipe 182 religion 377 sculpture 246, 310, 312, environment 362 safety 378, 451 426-7 Tafi Atome 182 festivals 362 telephone services 378 sea turtles 95, 214, 359, Takoradi 187-8 food 349, 361-2 443 talismans 425-6 tours 379 highlights 350 Sembène, Ousmane 402 Tamale 194-5 travel seasons 365 history 360-1 Senegal 34, 320-48, Tambacounda 340 travel to/within 378-9 holidays 363 322-3 Tamberma 375 visas 378 accommodation 320, internet access 362 Tamberma Valley 375 women travellers 378 language 362 346 Tangier 258-60, 258 Togoville 371 money 362 budgeting 321 Tanji 164-5 toilets 464 opening hours 362 business hours 347 Tanouchert 248 totems 425-6 planning 349 climate 320 Tarrafal 112, 120 Toubakouta 336-7 politics 361 culture 345-6 taxi travel 479, see also Touré, Ali Farke 412 drinking 346 safety 363, 451 sept place travel tourist information 464, see electricity 347 slavery 358 Cape Verde 136 also individual locations embassies 346-7 telephone services 363 Ghana 203 Tourou 99 emergency services 347 tourist information 363 Morocco 293 tours 471-2, 480, see also individual locations, environment 346 travel seasons 349 Togo 379 safaris, walking tours festivals 347 travel to/within 357, Tazaghart 285 363-4 traditional medicine 489 food 320, 346 tea 251, 289 visas 363 train travel 19, 479, 480 highlights 322-3 telephone services 18, Cameroon 105 history 345 signares 339 19, 463-4, see also Côte d’Ivoire 151 holidays 347 Silacoro 148 individual locations Mauritania 244, 254 internet access 347 silverwork 250, 298 Terjît 246-7, 13 Morocco 293 language 347 Sindou Peaks 14, 69, 14 textiles 193, 200, 313, Nigeria 319 money 347 Siné-Saloum Delta 334-7 420-3, 422 transporte misto travel 219 opening hours 347 slavery 13, 21, 186, 389, theatre 25, 114, 259 see also individual travel seasons, see planning 320 theft 74, 169, 378, 452- locations 3, 469 individual locations politics 345 books 391 thermal springs 313 travel to/from West safety 341, 347, 451 Africa 467-72, see also Bunce Island 358 Tiébélé 71 slavery 333, 334 individual locations Cape Coast 183-4 time 464 telephone services 347 travel within West Africa Cape Verde 130 Timichi 285 travel seasons 320 472-80, see also Ghana 183-4, 186, 197 tipping 461 individual locations travel to/within 347 Île de Gorée 333, 334 Tiwai Island 359-60 travellers cheques 460-1 visas 347 Jufureh 165 Todra Gorge 286 trekking, see hiking Senoufo peoples 435 Mauritania 251 Togo 34, 365-79, 366 tro-tro travel 180-1, 185-6, sept place travel 475 Niger 296 accommodation 365, 188, 193, 203 Gambia, The 169 Route des Esclaves 45 377 trypanosomiasis 487 Guinea-Bissau 219 snakes 443 arts & craftwork 377 Tuareg peoples 237, 423, Senegal 348 bites 488-9 budgeting 367 436, 7 Serekunda, see Atlantic snorkelling 126, 454 business hours 378 Tuareg rebellion 236, Coast & Serekunda, 237, 296 Gambia Société Nouvelle Sucrière climate 365 de la Comoé 68-9 tuberculosis 487 Setti Fatma 285 drinking 377 Somba peoples 49 Tubman, William 230 shopping, see also economy 376 individual locations Songhaï peoples 435 electricity 378 Tujering 165 language 492, 494, 496 Soyinka, Wole 401 embassies 377 Turtle Islands 359 shwarmas 399 sports 453-5, see also environment 377, 438 turtles 95, 124, 126, 189, individual sports food 365, 377 214, 359, 443 514 twins 436 visas 18, 464-5, see also websites, see internet women in West Africa 339, typhoid 487 individual locations resources 394, 396-7, 395, 434 volcanoes 120, 121, 125 Wechiau 196-7 women travellers 55, 135, Volubilis 279 Western Sahara 249, 272, 252, 292, 378, 465-6 U volunteering 202, 465 288, 470 World Heritage Sites, see Unesco World Heritage voodoo 23, 45, 46, 52-3, Western Sahara route 470 Unesco World Heritage Sites 22 Sites INDEX INDEX 371-2, 377 whale-watching 126 Cape Coast Castle Wum 92 183-4, 186 Voodoo Festival 23 wildlife 12, 20, 374, 439-43, see also individual Cidade Velha 111 animals T 

- Île de Gorée 333 W Y Z wildlife reserves, see parks  Yamoussoukro 146-7 Koutammakou 375 Wa 196 & wildlife reserves Yaoundé 77-83, , Mt Fogo 121 walking, see hiking wildlife sanctuaries 80 82 accommodation 77-81 Musée Historique walking tours 176, 187 Cercopan (Nia) 311 drinking & nightlife 81 d’Abomey 48 water, drinking 447, 489 Drill Ranch (Nia) 311 food 81 Parc National de water sports 126, 325, 455 Limbe Wildlife Centre Niokolo-Koba 340 waterfalls 14 (C) 87 sights 77 Parc National du Banc Cascade de Womé Mvog-Betsi Zoo (C) 77 tourist information 81 d’Arguin 245 (T) 373 Parc National des travel to/within 82-3 St George’s Castle 186-7, Chutes de la Lobé Oiseaux Du Djoudj Yekepa 228 , 13 387 (C) 94 (S) 340 yellow fever 168, 482, Saint-Louis 337-40 Karfiguéla Waterfalls Tacugama Chimpanzee 487, 487 urbanisation 395 (BF) 68 Sanctuary (SL) 358 yogurt 399 Kota Falls (B) 50 Tafi Atome Monkey Sanc- Yoruba language 498 V Kpatawee waterfall tuary (Gha) 182, 2 Yoruba peoples 436 vacations 462-3 (L) 228 Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary (Gha) Varela 215 La Cascade (CI) 148 196-7, 444 Z vegetarian travellers 100, Metchum Falls (C) 92 windsurfing 117, 124, 133-4, Zagora 285-6 167, 289, 298 Tanougou Falls (B) 51 454-5 428 Viana Desert 126 Wli Falls (Gha) 182-3 Wli Falls 182-3 Ziguinchor 341, 344 Vila das Pombas 120 weather 18, 23-5, see also Wolof language 498 zoos, see wildlife sanctuaries Vila do Maio 129 individual locations weaving 182, 193, 423 Wolof peoples 436 Zwedru 228

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 502

Behind the Scenes

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Röbel, David Roberts, Tim Rohe, Antti Saarela, OUR READERS Brigitte Schumann, Wanda Serkowska, Leti- Many thanks to the travellers who used the cia Sevillano, Federica Seymandi, Kourtney last edition and wrote to us with helpful Smienthree, Robert Sobotta, Lindsay Song- hints, useful advice and interesting anec- stad, Pamela Spears, Monique Teggelove, dotes: Jonathan Thompson, Peter Tjallinks, Gregg Tayo Akanni, Omar Alikaj, Dan Arenson, Bo Tully, Samantha Turay, Marc Van Der Stock, Banks, Jack Beven, Iain Bisset, Suvi Brown, Michiel Van Agt, Liesbeth Vanzeir, Paul Vialard, Jeroen Bruggeman, Lucky Burchett, Luke Katrin Voelter, Julie Wang, Philipp Wecken- Cape, Lauren Carter, Vlaďka Chvátalová, brock, Ryan Wilber, Craig Wirick, Emily Yost. Christine Cooper, Paul Costello, David Curran, Philippe De Roover, Grigorios Delichristos, Sumudu Dhanapala, Juergen Ditz, Lee Dobbs, AUTHOR THANKS Dagmar Dohr, Heinz Effertz, Lars Elle, Katy Ferrar, Kennet Fischer, Danny Fitzgerald, Kari Anthony Ham Foley, Kelly Foster, Nicolas Fournier, Kathleen Sincere thanks to all of those who have made Fowler, Eddie Fox, Lucy Fulton, Anne-catherine West Africa such a special place for me to visit Geerinckx, Marcin Grabiec, Persephone Har- throughout the years. Special thanks to Jan rington, Jonathan Harris, Steff Hazlehurst, and Ron, and to my three girls Marina, Carlota Jessica Henry, Lauren Herwehe, Nakajima and Valentina: Os quiero con todo mi corazon. Hideaki, Frida Hoekman, Nynke Hofstra, My work on this book is dedicated to Azima Priska Jeuch, Timothy Johnston, Hannah Ag Mohamed Ali – I hope you can return home Jones, Peter Kargaard, Erin Kieffer, Melissa soon, my friend. Klar, Karen Kort, Ulrich Kröll, Rommert Kruithof, Anne Langdji, Stephany Laperriere, Jean-Bernard Carillet Mark Latchford, Rena Leore, Miguel Machado, A huge thanks to everyone who made this trip Porshia Mack, Finn Mackenzie, Eythor Mag- a pure joy, including Arno, Gautier, Dominique, nusson, Kian Marius Kottke, Guy Mccollum, Julien, Myriam and all the travellers I met while Nicola Muehlig, Nicola Mühlig, Piers Newberry, on the road. I’m also grateful to my fellow au- René Olde Olthof, Dahlia Olinsky, Simon Pal- thor Emilie for her tips, and to Anthony Ham, tere, Achim Pfriender, Bernard Pollack, Joshua coordinating author extraordinaire. And finally, Posen, Kate Rawlings, Anton Rijsdijk, Tina once again a gros bisou to Christine and Eva. BEHIND THE SCENES 503

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Naomi Valeska Valeska Shahara Ahmed, Adrian Blackburn Larissa Frost, LarissaGenesys , Frost, Jouve India, Annelies Mertens, DiannePaton, Schall Trent Kerrianne meiner, Southway, Walker Gerard Mulvaney, Ross Taylor, Taylor, Ross Mulvaney, Jeanette Wall Cartographers Cañas, Julie Dodkins, Xavier Di Toro Assisting Layout Designer Cover Research Parker Internal Image Research David Nelson Language Content Branislava Vladisavljevic Thanks to Laura Ryan Crawford, Evans, (delicious land) of Guinea- of land) (delicious to everyone who helped out out helped who everyone to to Gilles in Dakar for some some for in Dakar Gilles to

, Hoji, for coming along for the ride the along for coming for Hoji, , -

merci terrasabi obrigada Brigitte Sarah Sarah and Tessa, for fun had on our foodie tours of of tours foodie our on had fun for Tessa, and A big big A the in Pick Holly Boslego, Matt especially Bissau, to road tough the on company her (for ett ‘Betty’ Amelia Manel, Ze King, Brian Varela), Mama the Djalo, Bassiro and Aicha Gomes, clan. Djalo-King extended the and Djombos Gamarra Gorka Cassama, Lassana to Thanks and Felipa to Bolama, of island the on and, welcome. warm a such for Dabo Queba to Othello to thanks special Liberia, lovely In and company his (for Karim Saad Garblah, Chawki Alpha, taximan Golafale, Saki couch), Fid Leone, Sierra In Jamal. and Bsaibes you Thank invaluable. was help Thompson’s Ami Jalloh, Koumba to also Shout-outs Fid! On Serif. Faty and Gbarpor Nelson Seye, nata Hortense to thanks d’Ivoire, Côte in road the Diallo David ‘Rainbow’, Amie Franck, and Anja Mutić Obrigada to thanks huge A fun. it more and making who made in Mindelo, her crowd and Samira go thanks Special city. with the in love me fall on Kate Vista, on Boa and Larissa Cristiano to con a great being for and Patti Antão Santo mum always-laughing my to Finally, nector. father. my memoryand the inspiring of Caroline Sieg time to the who took everyone to Thanks the count with me and for their tips share bars at waterside friendly conversations less, And a very The Gambia and Senegal. across special on the town. out nights sensational Kate Thomas - Jane Hart Jacqui Saunders - - taxi- Designer Assisting Editors Vic Penny Cordner, Bailey, toria Harrison, Kate James, Anne Shawn Mason, Anne Low, Commissioning Editors William GlennGourlay, van der Knijff Coordinating Editors Waby BriohnyTasmin Hooper, Senior Cartographer Jennifer Johnston Coordinating Layout Designer Managing Editors BruceAngela Ellemor, Evans, Tinson Managing Cartographer Adrian Persoglia Managing Layout - - - guidebook ride and were part of the journey – the journey of part ride and were West Africa This guidebook was com a night in a hotel in Wum without first eating eating first without Wum in a night in a hotel Grids! bag. a plastic fish from Cowley, whose company and high spirits in high spirits and company whose Cowley, driv whether unforgettable, were Cameroon been on, ever I’ve roads the worst ing down or surviving Kumba, of the mayor befriending who came to Africa for the first time in her the first for Africa to who came travelling be an amazing to 60s and proved hu of her sense lost She never companion. of and lots weather bad illness, mour despite Niall to also thanks Enormous long journeys. Thanks to Patrick Smith, Reuben Swift and Swift Reuben Smith, Patrick to Thanks Yeboah. Yaa MastersTom Masters, Rosemary to thanks of debt huge A there are simply too many to name here. And here. name to many simply too are there putting for Adolfo husband my to thank you life. up with this crazy Nana Luckham Emilie Filou profes tourism the travellers, all to Thanks in with sionals and friends who chipped or a a meal shared recommendations, brousse Mauritania, big thanks to Melissa Nielson Nielson Melissa to big thanks Mauritania, at Cora Sawaya, Natsuko and Andersson Adrar, in the driver my to and Sahara, Bab Jid Moma. Morocco to acknowledge everyone, but a everyone, acknowledge to Morocco Brand Kerstin this time to thanks particular and in Fez Johnstone Robert in Marrakesh, In Eid. for being a hostess for Alia Radman Paul Clammer in friends many too always are There duced by the following: edition was also coordinated by Anthony Ham. missioned in Lonely Planet’s Melbourne office, and pro Nana Luckham, Tom NanaMasters, Luckham, Tom Anja Mutić, Caroline Sieg, Kate Thomas Wruble, and Vanessa and Jane Cornwell wrote the TheMusic previous chapter. was was researched and written by Anthony Ham (coordinating Jean-Bernardauthor), Carillet, Paul Emilie Clammer, Filou, THIS BOOK This 8th edition of Lonely Plan et’s , 11, 163344. 11, , Cover photograph: Traditionally painted painted Traditionally photograph: Cover ACKNOWLEDGMENTS MC, Peel from adapted map data Climate ‘Updated (2007) TA McMahon & BL Finlayson Climate Köppen-Geiger the Map of World Hydrology and Earth SystemClassification’, Sciences Van Ariadne Ghana, house, mud flat-roofed Zandbergen/Alamy. Gordon, Ruth McDowall, Raphael Ayukotang, Ayukotang, Raphael McDowall, Ruth Gordon, and In Lagos, Lost (in absentia), Taibi Vincent pharmacy. the to me who took the dude

email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions and conditions the terms See it. or resell know, you everyone email it to the right thing with ‘Do - the above saying of way a longer for on our site our content.’ to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other In other only. purposes non-commercial personal, it for use to ask you to mass site, a peer-to-peer to this chapter upload don’t please words, © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, use, to you for it easier make To Ltd. Pty Publications Planet © Lonely fair think it’s we In return, digitally restricted. is not this chapter to access ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd VanessaWruble as- research excellent my to thanks Many generous the amazingly Idagu, David sistant (and Captain!), Rikki Stein Ghariokwu, Lemi Shi- (and Osaro, Kuti and Seun Femi Yeni, Osahon Asika, Obi Vibes), and Patches gogo, Chike AAF, and Azu Nwagbogu Akpata, Robin Davies-Okundaye, Nike Nwagbogu Glenna at Pandrillus, everyone Campbell, Abidjan. Thanks to all the wonderful people people wonderful the all to Thanks Abidjan. trips and time of worth years’ six in known I’ve Africa. West home, consider I that region a to

BEHIND THE SCENES 504