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Alpinistička Škola AO HPD "Željezničar"

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Alpinistička Škola AO HPD MARKO DUKŠI ALPINISTIČKA ŠKOLA AO HPD “Željezničar” Zagreb, 2006. Alpinistička škola AO HPD "Željezničar" PREGLED SADRŽAJA 1. UVOD..........................................................................................................................................1 2. ČVOROVI...................................................................................................................................2 3. OPASNOSTI U PLANINAMA.................................................................................................10 4. PRIPREMA PENJAČKOG USPONA......................................................................................13 5. KOMUNIKACIJA U STIJENI..................................................................................................16 6. PRUSICIRANJE........................................................................................................................19 7. ABSEIL......................................................................................................................................21 8. SITNO ALI BITNO...................................................................................................................23 9. UMJESTO ZAKLJUČKA.........................................................................................................27 Alpinistička škola AO HPD "Željezničar" 1. UVOD Ova skripta zamišljena su kao pomoć polaznicima alpinističke škole pri praćenju predavanja te kao pomoć pri spremanju ispita za naslov alpinist pripravnik u Alpinističkom odsjeku HPD “Željezničar”. To nikako nije cjelovit udžbenik za početnike već samo na jednom mjestu sabrane najvažnije informacije o temama koje je lako prepričati u sažetom obliku. Teme se uglavnom dotiču sigurnosti u alpinizmu, dakle osnova bez kojih se ne može (bar ne dugo). Za kvalitetan osvrt na ostale teme, ali i za potpuno shvaćanje dobrog dijela ovdje spomenutih, nužno je i redovito praćenje predavanja kao i aktivno sudjelovanje u terenskoj nastavi. Alpinističke škole u Hrvatskoj trenutno nemaju oslonac ni u kojem udžbeniku domaćih autora, dok je strana literatura, iako vrlo kvalitetna, iz praktičnih razloga uglavnom zanemarena. Apeliramo na zainteresirane pojedince iz penjačke zajednice da doprinesu stvaranju obimnijeg djela koje bi povećalo učinkovitost nastave alpinističkih škola u Hrvatskoj. 1 Alpinistička škola AO HPD "Željezničar" 2. ČVOROVI Pravilna upotreba čvorova u alpinizmu osnova je za sigurnije penjanje i popratne aktivnosti. Čvorove treba izvoditi uredno i brzo što se uči na terenskoj nastavi, a vježba kod kuće. Ako ispravno uže igdje pukne pod ravnomjernim opterećenjem, puknut će upravo na čvoru. On neizbježno oslabljuje uže, a naročito ako je neuredan pa je urednost ovdje vrlo poželjna. Kod izrade čvora posebno treba obratiti pažnju na klasičnu pogrešku nezavršavanja istog do koje dolazi zbog odvraćanja pažnje. Dogodilo se već da penjač misleći da je navezan i osiguran krene penjati s užetom samo labavo provučenim kroz pojas. Stoga jednom započeti čvor treba odmah i završiti, a ne ostaviti za kasnije. Vrlo je važno primijeniti prave čvorove u pravim situacijama, a kao podsjetnik neka posluži ovaj pregled čvorova, njihovih namjena i specifičnosti koje svaki alpinist pripravnik treba znati i razumjeti. Navedena su i druga imena čvorova kako bi se čitatelju olakšalo pronalaženje dodatnih informacija (npr. skica s načinima izrade) u drugim pisanim izvorima i, naravno, na Internetu. 2 Alpinistička škola AO HPD "Željezničar" dvostruki zatezni lađarski polulađarski prusik modificirani prusik karabinerski prusik bulin osmica dvostruka osmica 3 Alpinistička škola AO HPD "Željezničar" osmica s uplitanjem kravatni ambulantni provizorni karabinerska kočnica garda pletenica kaubojski šestica 4 Alpinistička škola AO HPD "Željezničar" 2.1. Dvostruki zatezni Drugi naziv: double fisherman's bend Služi za povezivanje dva kraja užeta. Dva penjačka užeta povezuju se ovim čvorom kad je potrebno izvesti abseil dulji od pola duljine jednog užeta. Sigurno povezuje užad različitih debljina. Najčešće se ipak primjenjuje za zatvaranje zamke povezivanjem njenih krajeva. 2.2. Lađarski Drugi nazivi: lađarac, clove hitch Služi za pričvršćenje užeta na karabiner. Primjenjuje se za samoosiguranje na štandu ili za pričvršćenje užeta uz stijenu (pri izradi rukohvata – “galendera”). Jednostavno ga se podešava, lako razvezuje, upliće, a može ga se izvesti i jednom rukom. 2.3. Polulađarski Drugi nazivi: polulađarac, half/Munter/Italian hitch Služi umjesto spravice za osiguravanje. Osim za osiguravanje partnera prikladan je i za abseil, ali pri tome jako uvrće uže i time otežava njegovo izvlačenje iz štanda. Stoga je koristan kad spravice nema, ali trebalo bi ga izbjegavati kad je ona pri ruci te u korist karabinerske kočnice. 2.4. Prusik Služi umjesto raznih mehaničkih hvataljki za uže. Koristi se za samoosiguranje kod abseila, prusiciranje te prebacivanje palog penjača na štand. Najbolje drži kad je svezan u zamci barem 4 mm tanjoj od užeta na koje se pričvršćuje. Dobro hvata i već opterećeno uže. 5 Alpinistička škola AO HPD "Željezničar" 2.5. Modificirani prusik Drugi naziv: Klemheist knot Čvor kao i prusik s tim da je prikladan i za blatno uže, a izvediv je i s gurtnom umjesto zamke. 2.6. Karabinerski prusik Drugi naziv: Bachmann knot Čvor kao i prusik s dodatnom pogodnošću u vidu “ručke” kojom ga se lako poteže uzduž glavnog užeta. Također je izvediv i s gurtnom umjesto zamke. 2.7. Bulin Drugi nazivi: pašnjak, najlonski, mrtvi, bowline Služi za izradu nepomične omče koja je alpinistu korisna u raznim situacijama. Obično se primjenjuje za prsni navez te navezivanje penjačkim užetom oko struka ili na penjački pojas. Lako se otpušta nakon pada. Nije siguran bez dodatnog sigurnosnog čvora. 2.8. Osmica Drugi nazivi: vodički, figure of eight on a bight, Flemish loop Služi za izradu nepomične omče. U omču se navezuje preko matičara pa je moguće navezati se i na sredinu užeta. 2.9. Dvostruka osmica Drugi nazivi: dvostruki vodički, double figure of eight on a bight Služi za izradu dvostruke omče. Njime se isti dio užeta može pričvrstiti na dva karabinera ili u 6 Alpinistička škola AO HPD "Željezničar" slučaju nepredviđene potrebe improvizirati pojas. Omče nisu sasvim nepomične tj. moguće ih je naizmjence skraćivati i produljivati. 2.10. Osmica s uplitanjem Drugi nazivi: vodički/osmica s uplitanjem/navođenjem, figure of eight follow-through, threaded figure of eight Služi za izradu nepomične omče kroz zatvorenu strukturu (metalni prsten, pojas). Osmica s uplitanjem najčešće se koristi za navezivanje penjačkim užetom na penjački pojas. Ne zahtijeva sigurnosni čvor na slobodnom kraju užeta. Apsorbira dio energije pada pri čemu se dosta zategne. 2.11. Kravatni Drugi nazivi: tape/water knot, ring bend Služi za povezivanje krajeva gurtni. Svoju primjenu nalazi u izradi stremena iz gurtne ili za zatvaranje gurtni pri izradi alpinističkih kompleta. Zahtijeva redovite preglede jer klizi prilikom upotrebe. Iznimno može poslužiti za zatvaranje ili povezivanje zamki kad je važno potrošiti što manje užeta na čvor, a nije bitno hoće li se zamke nakon opterećenja moći odvezati. 2.12. Ambulantni Drugi nazivi: reef/square knot Služi za spajanje dva kraja užeta pri izradi prsnog naveza te nošenja alpinistički smotanog penjačkog užeta na leđima. Nije siguran bez dodatnih sigurnosnih čvorova s obje strane. 7 Alpinistička škola AO HPD "Željezničar" 2.13. Provizorni Drugi naziv: mule knot Služi za pričvršćenje slobodnog kraja užeta kod osiguravanja partnera. Njime se blokira spravica za osiguravanje ili polulađarac te se pažnja može posvetiti primjerice prebacivanju palog penjača na štand. Nije siguran bez dodatnog sigurnosnog čvora. 2.14. Karabinerska kočnica Služi umjesto spravice za osiguravanje kod abseila ili za spuštanje palog penjača sa sidrišta. Ne uvija uže za razliku od polulađarca. 2.15. Garda Drugi naziv: alpine clutch Služi umjesto samoblokirajuće spravice, dakle propušta uže samo u jednom smjeru. Koristi se u raznim sustavima kolotura (primjerice sv. Bernard). Nemoguće ga je otpustiti pod opterećenjem, već ga je najprije potrebno rasteretiti. 2.16. Pletenica Služi za pričvršćenje napete zamke na karabiner, primjerice u kombinaciji s prusikom u sustavu sv. Bernard. Jednostavno i lako se otpušta pod opterećenjem. Ne treba zamijeniti ovaj čvor s “pletenicom” za spremanje zamke! 2.17. Kaubojski Drugi naziv: poluprusik, cow hitch, girth hitch, Lark's foot/head Rezultat napola izvedenog prusika. Služi u raznim situacijama kad zatvorenu zamku ili gurtnu 8 Alpinistička škola AO HPD "Željezničar" treba svezati oko neke druge zatvorene strukture (primjerice druge zamke, metalnog obruča, stabla, pješčanog sata, penjačkog pojasa). 2.18. Šestica Drugi naziv: perec, overhand knot Preferirani čvor za spajanje dva penjačka užeta prilikom abseila te za tu svrhu ima bitnu prednost pred dvostrukim zateznim čvorom – ne zapinje lako prilikom izvlačenja užeta. 9 Alpinistička škola AO HPD "Željezničar" 3. OPASNOSTI U PLANINAMA Čovjek se opasnostima oduvijek i stalno izlaže – bez obzira na to čime se bavi i gdje se nalazi. No, opasnosti u planinama većinom su drugačije prirode od onih na koje smo svakodnevno navikli (npr. cestovni promet, razbojstva, terorizam...). Stoga penjač-početnik mora dobro upoznati moguće nove rizike koje preuzima kao i načine kako da ih smanji na njemu prihvatljivu mjeru. Uobičajena je podjela opasnosti u planini na objektivne i subjektivne. Objektivne su opasnosti nepredvidive, a nikakva ih posebna priprema ne može umanjiti.
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