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Self Rescue for Rock Climbers
Self Rescue for Rock Climbers So you know how to climb, maybe you are even proficient at lead climbing. Have you ever thought about what would happen if something goes wrong? What if the climber you are belaying gets injured, and you are unable to lower them back to the ground? Simple accidents like this have been the beginning of many serious injuries and even fatalities. With some basic theory and techniques, you will have the tools needed to confront these problems in a calm, systematic manner. This one day skills course will teach you how to use the equipment you already are carrying, to improvise rescue systems and get you and your team out of a jam. Every climber needs to know these skills! Skills covered: • Technical systems review, including belaying off the anchor • Belay escapes • rope ascending and descending • counter balance ascending and descending with an injured climber • raising systems, including 3:1 and 5:1 • lowering systems with a knot pass Prerequisites: Basic outdoor rock climbing experience required. Lead climbing experience is recommended, but not required. All programs directed by Adrian Ballinger AMGA - IFMGA Certified Mountain Guide ©2004-2016 All Rights Reserved Alpenglow Expeditions ! Price: $189 Location: Alpenglow runs our rock climbing courses on the Iconic Donner Summit, in Truckee, California. Specific meeting location details will be provided before the course starts. What to bring: The weather can vary wildly on Donner Summit, from cold and windy to hot and sunny. It is important that you have the proper clothing to be comfortable while in the field. -
Rescue Response Gear Rigging Lab Sisters, OR Rope Rescue Course
Rescue Response Gear Rigging Lab Sisters, OR Rope Rescue Course Text Awareness Level Operations Level Technician Level This textbook is for the exclusive use of participants of the RRG Rigging Lab. Pat Rhodes RRG Rigging Lab Rope Rescue Course Text, © 2011, Rhodes 2 Rope Rescue Course Text Disclaimer: This book is intended for the exclusive use of participants of the RRG Rigging Lab. Rope rescue is inherently dangerous, even if the techniques, procedures and illustrations in this book are diligently followed, serious injury and/or death may result. This book makes no claim to be all-inclusive on the subject of rope rescue. There is no substitute for quality training under the guidance of a qualified instructor. Insofar as the author of this book has no control over the level of expertise of the reader of this material, or the manner this information is used, the author assumes no responsibility for the reader’s use of this book. There is no warranty, either expressed or implied, for the accuracy and/or reliability for the information contained hereof. RRG Rigging Lab, Rope Rescue Course Text, © Copyright 2011, Rhodes. All rights reserved for the contents of this manual. NO unauthorized duplication by any means without prior written permission from the author. RRG Rigging Lab Rope Rescue Course Text, © 2011, Rhodes 3 RRG Rigging Lab Rope Rescue Course Text, © 2011, Rhodes 4 RescueRig Rope Rescue Course Text Contents Section 1 Awareness Level 6 Chapter 1 Commitment to Excellence 6 Chapter 2, Managing a Technical Rescue 12 Definitions 27 -
Protecting an Abseil: a Study of Friction Knots
Protecting An Abseil: A Study Of Friction Knots The article below was prompted by local Queensland bushwalking clubs having gained liability insurance for abseiling after many years of not having access to that skill. Many members needed upskilling and thus Federation Mountain Rescue took the opportunity to look at all aspects of training and methods etc. Dr. Ron Farmer is a climber of many years standing, he was present for many of the first ascents at Frog Buttress and other notable mountains and cliffs around south east Queensland and wider a field. He is a founding member and president of Federation Mountain Rescue which was formed 40 or so years ago and that organisation was responsible for vertical rescue and lost persons in remote areas rescue well before the state emergency service came into being. FMR has had a significant role in developing training methods to prevent the need for rescues both in the bush and the vertical world. FMR is now mostly a bushwalking training and occasional search and rescue organisation. This document is a continuation of that effort. - Phil Box. Any feedback on this study is welcome. Dr. Ron Farmer's email address is [email protected] Phil Box's email address is [email protected] The original authorship rests with Dr. Ron Farmer, I have been asked to submit the study on rockclimbing.com and also on chockstone so that it`s findings are as widely available as possible to the climbing community. EXECUTIVE SUMMARY OF AN EXPERIMENTAL STUDY OF SOME FRICTION KNOTS COMMONLY RECOMMENDED FOR PROTECTING AN ABSEIL August 2005 - February 2006 AIM The aim of this study was to examine the suitability of various knots for protecting an abseil with a self-belay. -
The Great Knot Competition
Outdoor Education 9 The Great Knot Competition Date of competition: ________________________ Learn to accurately and quickly tie useful knots from memory! The student with the most winning times on the knots will win the competition, with a second runner up. Incorrectly tied knots or memory aids will disqualify quickest times. 1st Place - First choice of chocolate bar 2nd Place - Chocolate bar Knots to be Timed: 1. Square Knot (Reef Knot) The square knot can join 2 ropes of the same size. It is the first knot we learn to make with our shoelaces. It looks like a bow and is hugely unreliable. Its breaking strength is only 45% of the line strength. The simple and ancient binding knot is also known by the names Hercules, Herakles, flat, and reef knots. It helps to secure a line or rope around an object. It creates unique designs of jewelry. 2. Figure 8 Follow Through Based on the figure 8 knot, figure 8 follow through knot is one of the ways of tying a figure 8 loop the other one being the figure 8 on a bight. It secures the climbing rope to a harness thereby protecting the climber from an accidental fall. 3. Bowline The bowline (pronunciation “boh-lin”) is a knot that can itself be tied at the middle of a rope making a fixed, secure loop at the end of the line. It retains about 60% of the line strength and has a knot efficiency of 77%. 4. Barrel Knot It is a friction knot (or slip knot) meaning that it will self-tighten around the object it is tied to when loaded. -
Climbing Fences,, Ropes, Knots and Rope Making
CLIMBING FENCES, ROPES, KNOTS AND ROPE MAKING TECHNIQUES Stolen from UK Indymedia - www.indymedia.org.uk/en/2006/07/346369.html?c=on#c152797 Many activists get arrested cutting through military fences and so get the extra charge of 'malicious mischief'. Using a ladder to climb fences is impracticable as you tend to get intercepted and charged for approaching a base with a ladder. You can buy 'telescopic-ladders' but they are very expensi ve so here is the cheapo solution. You can buy metal key -ring clips with chains for about a £1.50 from cornershops and newsagents. You can then clip the chains to fences to allow use as foothold and handholds. If the keyring clip is less than 7mm in diameter at it's thinnest - and most of them are - you can clip onto even the thin fences that they use at places like Faslane. Bolting a piece of flat wood to the chain means the foothold stands proud of the fence and makes it is easier and quicker for severa l people to use in the dark. These are pocket -sized / foot -sized so are easily concealed and only four are required to help the least fit activists easily climb an 8m fence, and are also cheap enough to be disposable in a rush. If you are very careful attaching it to the fence then you don't even set off the high-tech vibration sensors that military fences often utlise, at least until you start climbing. Make sure the wood you use is strong enough to take your bodyweight after drilling - also - test them once you've built them. -
Editorializing Carol Wang the Constrictor Knot
Knot News International Guild of Knot Tyers – Pacific Americas Branch July 2011 Carol Wang-Editor ISSN 1554-1843 Issue #84 or reference. Nope. At least, not in Ashley. (Not Editorializing yet, anyway. More on that later.) Carol Wang Looking at the mechanics of the knots to see why My apologies for the lateness of the newsletter. I wi! the Ashley version works, and how my version not bother you with excuses but only promise to do my works, I figure that the crossing over the top of utmost to be more timely in the future. the simple overhand knot portion provides a compression. The more it’s tightened, the harder This issue sees the first of our Knot Tyer Profiles, it’s compressed, and the longer it holds. starting with a bang with J.D. Lenzen, author and YouTube video mainstay. An article of exploration and analysis that ends up finding a flag already planted but nevertheless enriches the knot world with new insight. We get our long promised closer look at Karl’s knotboard. Reviews of iPhone/iPad knot related apps, and the usual reporting on the activities of the branch. The Constrictor Knot--Two Versions Tig Dupré [Figure 1: Clove Hitch] One of my favorite binder knots is the Constrictor Knot (ABOK #1249). I’ve used it for More closely studied, the Ashley Constrictor many things: temporary repairs on a garden hose, seemed to have evolved from a Clove Hitch binding coiled line for over-the-shoulder travel, (Figure 1), with the running end brought back and binding leather zipper pulls. -
Knotting Matters
Guild Supplies Price List 2004 Item Price Knot Charts Full Set of 100 charts £10.00 Individual charts £0.20 Rubber Stamp IGKT Member, with logo £4.00 (excludes stamp pad) Guild Tie Long, dark blue with Guild Logo in gold £8.95 Badges - all with Guild Logo Blazer Badge £1.00 Enamel Brooch £2.00 Windscreen Sticker £1.00 Certificate of Membership £2.50 Parchment membership scroll Signed by the President and Hon Sec For mounting and hanging Cheques payable to IGKT, or simply send your credit card details PS Don’t forget to allow for postage Supplies Secretary: - Bruce Turley 19 Windmill Avenue, Rubery, Birmingham B45 9SP email [email protected] Telephone: 0121 453 4124 Knotting Matters Magazine of the International Guild of Knot Tyers Hitched knife and sheath by Yngve Edell Issue No. 83 Back cover: Thump mat on replica ship ‘The Mathew’, Bristol President: Jeff Wyatt Secretary: Nigel Harding Editor: Colin Grundy IN THIS ISSUE Website: www.igkt.net 2004 AGM 5 Submission dates for copy Proud to be High - Pt II 7 KM 84 07 JUL 2004 KM 85 25 SEP 2004 Knotmaster 14 Alternative to Sliced Eye 16 Wine Lovers 18 Make Your Own Tools! 19 Knot Gallery 22 Ring Prusiks 28 The IGKT is a UK Registered Charity No. 802153 Lessons from the Art 30 The Bollard Loop Saga 33 Except as otherwise indicated, copyright in Knotting Matters is reserved to the My Life in Knots 37 International Guild of Knot Tyers IGKT 2004. Copyright of members articles Knotless Knots 39 published in Knotting Matters is reserved to the authors and permission to reprint Kemp’s Trident 42 should be sought from the author and editor. -
Field Trip #1 Prep
Basic Rock & Glacier Climbing Course 2018 – Tacoma Mountaineers FIELD TRIP #1 PREP – FUNDAMENTALS Knots, Prusiking, Belays, Leader Tie-off and Belay Escape FIELD TRIP #1 PREP– FUNDAMENTALS PREPARATION Dates: February 13 th or 14 th Starting Time: Arrive at 6:15 pm and be ready to go by 6:30 pm 1 Time: Duration: Approximately 3 /2 hours NOTE: Due to the amount of material that is covered and the time required to create your prusiks, this field trip may last as late as 11 PM. Location: Tacoma Mountaineer Clubhouse 2302 North 30 th St, Tacoma ▪ Have seat harness checked and approved ▪ Practice knots ▪ Construct leader tie-off, chest harness, and slings Purpose: ▪ Construct and size your Texas Prusiks ▪ Practice prusiking ▪ Observe belaying and leader tie-off with belay escape demo ▪ Attend lecture #1. Prerequisites: ▪ Read Lecture 1 reading assignments ▪ Read Freedom of the Hills : Basic Safety Systems………. ….. Ch 9 Belaying …………………………Ch 10 Glacier Travel ………………...…Ch 18, pgs 394-399, pgs 408-410 Assignments: ▪ Read Basic Rock & Glacier Climbing Manual Field Trip 1 Prep material ▪ Practice tying the required knots ▪ Watch this video on the basics of belaying (PBUS device method) : http://blog.alpineinstitute.com/2013/10/toprope-climbing-belay- technique.html EQUIPMENT See Required Equipment FT1P on the Equipment Matrix Bring webbing and perlon materials as described in Required Equipment (Lec.1) Additional Equipment Notes Special Notes & Items 1. Wear Mountaineering boots or sturdy leather hiking boots (NO Tennis shoes!!) 2. Wear appropriate clothing – dresses/skirts and shorts are not appropriate PROCEDURE When you arrive you will be assigned to an instructor. -
Tacoma Intermediate Alpine Climbing Handbook Table of Contents Introduction
Tacoma Intermediate Alpine Climbing Handbook Tacoma Intermediate Alpine Climbing Handbook Table of Contents Introduction .................................................................................................................................................................. 4 Tacoma Intermediate Program .................................................................................................................................... 4 Application Process and Sign-Up .............................................................................................................................. 4 Tacoma Intermediate Program Qualifier .............................................................................................................. 4 Intermediate Student Status ................................................................................................................................ 5 The Modules ............................................................................................................................................................. 6 Intermediate Snow Skills Module (Soft Snow) ..................................................................................................... 6 Intermediate Anchors and Self-Rescue ................................................................................................................ 6 Intermediate Rock – Traditional Single and Multi-Pitch Climbing ........................................................................ 7 Intermediate Glacier Travel Module -
Static Rope Accessory Cord Cowstail 0.2 3788 4 11 Mm Static Rope Accessory Cord Cowstail 1 4529 5 11 Mm Static Rope Accessory Cord Cowstail 2 4725
MW SME Exchange of Information Seminar September 2017 NATO MOUNTAIN WARFARE CENTRE OF EXCELLENCE Report on the testing of selected items of personal protective equipment against falls from a height and techniques employed in mountain warfare NATO MOUNTAIN WARFARE CENTRE OF EXCELLENCE Contents Excerpt 5 1 Introduction 7 Standardized safety 7 State of development of mountain warfare techniques within NATO and Slovenia 8 On the seminar 8 The purpose of the seminar and its main goals 8 Learning objectives 9 State of the art 10 2 Methodology 10 3 Results 12 Temporary anchoring 12 Lifelines 16 Traverse lines 26 Low-stretch rope main line 28 Full Dyneema rope main line 30 Ascent and descent on ropes 33 Few tests of falls in lead climbing 37 Abbreviations 41 List of Figures 41 List of Tables 41 References 42 Appendix 1 – Knots testing results 43 Appendix 2 – Seminar field Testing results 55 Appendix 3 – Conclusions and recommendations 77 This is a product of the NATO Mountain Warfare Centre of Excellence (NATO MW COE). It is produced for NATO, NATO member coun- tries, NATO partners, related private and public institutions and related individuals. It does not represent the opinions or policies of NATO or NATO MW COE. © All rights reserved by the NATO MW COE. This product may not be copied, reproduced, distributed or publicly displayed without reference to the NATO MW COE and the respective publication.” Photos: NATO MW COE archive or respective authors, as indicated. 4 Report on the testing of selected items of personal protective equipment against falls from a height and of techniques employed in NATO mountain warfare1 Excerpt This report was made possible by the NATO Mountain Warfare Centre of Excellence and its upcoming seminar on entiteled MW SME Exchange of information. -
Military Mountain Training
Federal Ministry of Defence and Sports S92011/27-Vor/2014 Supply No. 7610-10147-0714 Manual No. 1002.09 Austrian Armed Forces Field Manual (For Trial) Military Mountain Training Vienna, July 2014 Approval and Publishing Austrian Armed Forces Field Manual (for trial) Military Mountain Training Effective as of 1st December 2014 This Field Manual replaces the “Mountain Operations” Field Manual, parts I – IV, Supply number 7610-10133-0808 Approved: Vienna, 8th July 2014 For the Minister of Defence and Sports (COMMENDA, General) 2 Approval and Publication Austrian Armed Forces Field Manual (For Trial) Military Mountain Training Responsible for the Contents: SALZBURG, 27th June 2014 Chief, Air Staff, Austrian Joint Forces Command (GRUBER, BG) SAALFELDEN, 27th June 2014 Cdr (acting), Mountain Warfare Centre: (RODEWALD, Colonel) 3 PREFACE This Field Manual (FM) for trial (f.t.) serves as a basis for the training and application of mountaineering techniques within the Austrian Armed Forces (AAF) and will be distributed to the units in need of it. It is to be seen as the predecessor of the final version of the same-titled AAF FM, which will be published after the testing phase of this manual. The present FM (f.t.) was developed in cooperation with the German Bundeswehr (Bw) in order to ensure standardized training. In the Bw it is called C2-227/0-0-1550 “Gebirgsausbildung”. This FM (f.t.) is meant to provide knowledge and skills on: - geographical, geological, meteorological, and common basics for military operations in mountainous terrain, - safe and secure movements and survival in mountainous and high mountain regions, – mountain rescue, and – mountaineering equipment, which are preconditions for the accomplishment of military tasks. -
How to Big Wall Climb Want to Climb the Nose of El Capitan?
How to Big Wall Climb How to Big Wall Want to Climb The Nose of El Capitan? This is the first step-by-step aid climbing guide that takes you from your first step in an aider to the summit of El Capitan. Like anything worthwhile, big wall climbing requires hard work. That said, it’s not that difficult to get to the top of Yosemite’s El Capitan, the top prize of the world’s rock climbers. To scale El Cap you only have to free HOW TO climb 5.9 and know very basic aid climbing How to skills. The daunting challenge is to put those skills together efficiently, a trick most climbers never master. That is where this book comes in. It’s the first How To big wall book specifically BIG WALL organized and clearly designed to address the process of building big wall skills, step by step. Big Wall Climb Author Chris McNamara has climbed El Cap more than 70 times and has set several speed records there. He has climbed more than 100 CLIMB big walls, is a noted wingsuit BASE jumper and is the founder/CEO of SuperTopo, publisher of highly-regarded climbing guides for areas ranging from Alaska to Red Rocks with special attention to Yosemite. If you are a reasonably good climber psyched to do El Cap or a similar bad ass big wall, you probably can do it. Each week read a new chapter in this book and follow instructions. The objective The prize Climb The Nose of El Capitan (or similar bad ass Climbing El Cap and enjoying the process.