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Alpinisticka Skola Prirucnik.Pdf ALPINISTIČKA ŠKOLA PRIRUČNIK ZA ALPINISTE PRIPRAVNIKE I ONE KOJI SE BAVE SLIČNIM EXTREMNIM SPORTOVIMA Literatura: AO HPD Željezničar - Marko Dukši Adnan Behrem Jabanica,2010. Alpinistička škola AO "Behrem Planinar Extrem Team" PREGLED SADRŽAJA 1. UVOD..................................................................................................................2 2. ČVOROVI...........................................................................................................3 3. OPASNOSTI U PLANINAMA......................................................................10 4. PRIPREMA PENJAČKOG USPONA...........................................................13 5. KOMUNIKACIJA U STIJENI.........................................................................16 6. PRUSICIRANJE.................................................................................................19 7. ABSEIL.................................................................................................................21 8. SITNO ALI BITNO............................................................................................23 9. UMJESTO ZAKLJUČKA...................................................................................28 BEHREM PLANINAR EXTREM TEAM www.behremplaninar.com Strana 1 Alpinistička škola AO "Behrem Planinar Extrem Team" 1. UVOD Ovajpriručnik zamišljen je kao pomoć polaznicima alpinističke škole pri praćenju predavanjate kao pomoć pri spremanju ispita za naslov alpinist pripravnik u Alpinističkom odsjeku “Planinarskog saveza BiH”. To nikako nije cjelovit udžbenik za početnike već samo na jednom mjestu sabrane najvažnije informacije o temama koje je lako prepričati u sažetom obliku. Teme se uglavnom dotiču sigurnosti u alpinizmu, dakle osnova bez kojih se ne može (bar ne dugo). Za kvalitetan osvrt na ostale teme, ali i za potpuno shvaćanje dobrog dijela ovdje spomenutih,potrebno je i redovito praćenje predavanja kao i aktivno sudjelovanje u terenskoj nastavi. Alpinističke škole u Bosni i Hercegovini trenutno nemaju oslonac ni u kojem udžbeniku domaćih autora,dok je strana literatura, iako vrlo kvalitetna, iz praktičnih razloga uglavnom zanemarena.Apeliram na zainteresirane pojedince iz penjačke zajednice da doprinesu stvaranju obimnijeg djela koji bi povećao učinkovitost nastave alpinističkih škola u BiH. BEHREM PLANINAR EXTREM TEAM www.behremplaninar.com Strana 2 Alpinistička škola AO "Behrem Planinar Extrem Team" 2. ČVOROVI Pravilna upotreba čvorova u alpinizmu osnova je za sigurnije penjanje i popratne aktivnosti.Čvorove treba izvoditi uredno i brzo što se uči na terenskoj nastavi, a vježba kod kuće. Ako ispravno uže igdje pukne pod ravnomjernim opterećenjem, puknut će upravo na čvoru. On neizbježno oslabljuje uže,a naročito ako je neuredan pa je urednost ovdje vrlo poželjna.Kod izrade čvora posebno treba obratiti pažnju na klasičnu pogrešku nezavršavanja istog do koje dolazi zbog odvraćanja pažnje. Dogodilo se već da penjač misleći da je navezan i osiguran krene penjati s užetom samo labavo provučenim kroz pojas. Zbog toga jednom započeti čvor treba odmah i završiti, a ne ostaviti za kasnije.Vrlo je važno primjeniti prave čvorove u pravim situacijama,a kao podsjetnik neka posluži ovaj pregled čvorova,njihovih namjena i specifičnosti koje svaki alpinist pripravnik treba znati i razumjeti. Navedena su i druga imena čvorova kako bi se čitatelju olakšalo pronalaženje dodatnih informacija (npr. skica sa načinima izrade) u drugim pisanim izvorima i, naravno, na Internetu. BEHREM PLANINAR EXTREM TEAM www.behremplaninar.com Strana 3 Alpinistička škola AO "Behrem Planinar Extrem Team" BEHREM PLANINAR EXTREM TEAM www.behremplaninar.com Strana 4 Alpinistička škola AO "Behrem Planinar Extrem Team" BEHREM PLANINAR EXTREM TEAM www.behremplaninar.com Strana 5 Alpinistička škola AO "Behrem Planinar Extrem Team" 2.1. Dvostruki zatezni Drugi naziv: double fisherman's bend Služi za povezivanje dva kraja užeta. Dva penjačka užeta povezuju se ovim čvorom kad je potrebno izvesti abseil duži od pola dužine jednog užeta. Sigurno povezuje užad različitih debljina. Najčešće se ipak primjenjuje za zatvaranje zamke povezivanjem njenih krajeva. 2.2. Lađarski Drugi nazivi: lađarac, clove hitch Služi za pričvršćenje užeta na karabiner. Primjenjuje se za samoosiguranje na štandu ili za pričvršćenje užeta uz stijenu (pri izradi rukohvata – “galendera”). Jednostavno se podešava,lako razvezuje, upliće, a možese izvesti i jednom rukom. 2.3. Polulađarski Drugi nazivi: polulađarac, half/Munter/Italian hitch Služi umjesto spravice za osiguravanje.Osim za osiguravanje partnera prikladan je i za abseil, ali pri tome jako uvrće uže i time otežava njegovo izvlačenje iz štanda.Zbog toga je koristan kad spravice nema, ali trebalo bi ga izbjegavati kad je ona pri ruci te u korist karabinerske kočnice. 2.4. Prusik Služi umjesto raznih mehaničkih hvataljki za uže.Koristi se za samoosiguranje kod abseila,prusiciranje te prebacivanje palog penjača na štand. Najbolje drži kad je svezan u zamci barem 4 mm tanjoj od užeta na koje se pričvršćuje. Dobro hvata i već opterećeno uže. BEHREM PLANINAR EXTREM TEAM www.behremplaninar.com Strana 6 Alpinistička škola AO "Behrem Planinar Extrem Team" 2.5. Modificirani prusik Drugi naziv: Klemheist knot Čvor kao i prusik s tim da je prikladan i za blatno uže, a izvediv je i sagurtnom umjesto zamke. 2.6. Karabinerski prusik Drugi naziv: Bachmann knot Čvor kao i prusik s dodatnom pogodnošću u vidu “ručke” kojom se lako poteže uzduž glavnog užeta.Također je izvediv i sa gurtnom umjesto zamke. 2.7. Bulin Drugi nazivi: pašnjak, najlonski, mrtvi, bowline Služi za izradu nepomične omče koja je alpinistu korisna u raznim situacijama. Obično se primjenjuje za prsni navez te navezivanje penjačkim užetom oko struka ili na penjački pojas.Lako se otpušta nakon pada. Nije siguran bez dodatnog sigurnosnog čvora. 2.8. Osmica Drugi nazivi: vodički, figure of eight on a bight, Flemish loop Služi za izradu nepomične omče. U omču se navezuje preko karabinera pa je moguće navezati se i na sredinu užeta. 2.9. Dvostruka osmica Drugi nazivi: dvostruki vodički, double figure of eight on a bight Služi za izradu dvostruke omče. Njime se isti dio užeta može pričvrstiti na dva karabinera ili u slučaju nepredviđene potrebe improvizirati pojas. Omče nisu sasvim nepomične tj. moguće ih je naizmjenice skraćivati i produživati. BEHREM PLANINAR EXTREM TEAM www.behremplaninar.com Strana 7 Alpinistička škola AO "Behrem Planinar Extrem Team" 2.10. Osmica s uplitanjem Drugi nazivi: vodički/osmica s uplitanjem/navođenjem, figure of eight follow-through, threaded figure of eight Služi za izradu nepomične omče kroz zatvorenu strukturu (metalni prsten, pojas). Osmica s uplitanjem najčešće se koristi za navezivanje penjačkim užetom na penjački pojas. Ne zahtijeva sigurnosni čvor na slobodnom kraju užeta. Apsorbira dio energije pada pri čemu se dosta zategne. 2.11. Kravatni Drugi nazivi: tape/water knot, ring bend Služi za povezivanje krajeva gurtni. Svoju primjenu nalazi za zatvaranje gurtni pri izradi alpinističkih kompleta. Zahtijeva redovite preglede jer klizi prilikom upotrebe.Puno može poslužiti za zatvaranje ili povezivanje zamki kad je važno potrošiti što manje užeta na čvor, a nije bitno hoće li se zamke nakon opterećenja moći odvezati. 2.12. Ambulantni Drugi nazivi: reef/square knot Služi za spajanje dva kraja užeta pri izradi prsnog naveza te nošenja alpinistički smotanog penjačkog užeta na leđima. Nije siguran bez dodatnih sigurnosnih čvorova sa obe strane. 2.13. Provizorni Drugi naziv: mule knot Služi za pričvršćenje slobodnog kraja užeta kod osiguravanja partnera. Njime se blokira spravica za osiguravanje ili polulađarac te se pažnja može posvetiti primjerice prebacivanju palog penjača na štand. Nije siguran bez dodatnog sigurnosnog čvora. BEHREM PLANINAR EXTREM TEAM www.behremplaninar.com Strana 8 Alpinistička škola AO "Behrem Planinar Extrem Team" 2.14. Karabinerska kočnica Služi umjesto spravice za osiguravanje kod abseila ili za spuštanje palog penjača sa sidrišta. Ne uvija uže za razliku od polulađarca. 2.15. Garda Drugi naziv: alpine clutch Služi umjesto samoblokirajuće spravice, dakle propušta uže samo u jednom smjeru. Koristi se u raznim sustavima kolotura (primjerice sv. Bernard). Nemoguće ga je otpustiti pod opterećenjem,već ga je predhodno potrebno rasteretiti. 2.16. Pletenica Služi za pričvršćenje napete zamke na karabiner, primjerice u kombinaciji sa prusikom u sistemusv. Bernard. Jednostavno i lako se otpušta pod opterećenjem. Ne treba zamijeniti ovaj čvor sa“pletenicom” za spremanje zamke! 2.17. Kaubojski Drugi naziv: poluprusik, cow hitch, girth hitch, Lark's foot/head Rezultat napola izvedenog prusika. Služi u raznim situacijama kada zatvorenu zamku ili gurtnutreba svezati oko neke druge zatvorene strukture (primjerice druge zamke, metalnog obruča, stabla, pješčanog sata, penjačkog pojasa). 2.18. Šestica Drugi naziv: perec, overhand knot Preferirani čvor za spajanje dva penjačka užeta prilikom abseila i za tu svrhu ima bitnu prednost pred dvostrukim zateznim čvorom – ne zapinje lako prilikom izvlačenja užeta. BEHREM PLANINAR EXTREM TEAM www.behremplaninar.com Strana 9 Alpinistička škola AO "Behrem Planinar Extrem Team" 3. OPASNOSTI U PLANINAMA Čovjek se opasnostima oduvijek i stalno izlaže – bez obzira na to čime se bavi i gdje se nalazi.Ali, opasnosti u planinama većinom su drugačije prirode od onih na koje smo svakodnevno navikli (npr. cestovni promet, razbojstva, terorizam...). Zbog toga penjač-početnik mora dobro upoznati moguće nove rizike
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