SOURCE 03-26-06 DC EE M8 CMYK

M8 Sunday, March 26, 2006 x

ROADTRIP To Catch a Spy

Communist spy Elizabeth Bentley — who knocked Start back martinis at Martin’s Tavern — came in from D.C. here 50 the cold in 1945, helping the authorities who K ST. ultimately executed Ethel and Julius Rosenberg. 14TH STREET 66 110 495 Ra 495 1 pp 66 395 95 301 a h According to Jay Abdulla, who’ a 17 n a photo stand in s been running n 15 Lafayette Square o Manassas years, hawks pat for 25 c rol this a k 95 nice pigeo rea looking for a R. n lunch. VIRGINIA 234

Prince Driver’s William route Forest Outside the Willard Intercontinental, check nearby walls for chalk Park . JOPLIN ROAD R marks at waist level. Ex-Delta operator Eric L. Haney says foreign spies c have left these to alert each other for hidden messages at their drops. EXIT 150 a Hit the Battlefield Restaurant, where m o a cheeseburger costs $2.39. It’s like t MARYLAND o g you’ve taken a time warp back to when P Forest Park’s 37 miles of hikin cars had fins and girls wore poodles. Prince William es. Get lost on rough more than 15,000 acr 0 25 trails that cut th MILES

Fredericksburg 1 EXIT 130 WHERE: -related sites from and producer for the new CBS series squawking with interference, just hit 3 3 Washington to Williamsburg. “The Unit,” remembers setting up the gas and keep driving. EXIT 17 clandestine meetings across the area. Once in Richmond, it’s time for an 126 LAFAYETTE WHY: Deep woods, high-octane milk After he retired and went into business anecdote from the memoirs of ex-CIA BOULEVARD t, owner Fawad shakes and darn good barbecue in the for himself rescuing kidnap victims head Robert M. Gates: Spooks in his At the Afghan Restauran om the shadow of the CIA’s legendary training and protecting diplomats, Haney’s fa- spy school class did surveillance drills Abbasi shows off an American flageopened fr in sy in Kabul, which r camp. vorite spot to meet new clients was the here in the early morning hours — and U.S. Embas a decade. swank Willard Intercontinental, a fit- actually were flagged by local cops 2001 after more than

HOW FAR: About 160 miles or 3 ting start for your tour. who didn’t know what to make of 95 hours. “I have used its bar as a meeting them. Take our advice and head to 207 place for ‘operations for hire,’ ” he Shockoe Espresso and Roastery for a 17 ack in the mid-’80s, if you says. His cocktail there? chocolate-chunk scone and a cup of 301 thought spies were tailing “My drink is the same everywhere,” joe. Leave stalking to the pros. you, it helped to know a he says. “Salvador Libre — rum and Finally, head toward Williamsburg If you’re feeling sluggish, drag yourself good lesbian bar — since tonic with a twist of lime.” to the granddaddy of espionage spots. to the Shockoe Espresso and Roastery most of the surveillance After a visit to the Round Robin Bar, Squeezed next to the highway and the and ask for their Shockoe Shake — a They say if you touch the g teams were all men. take a stroll over to Lafayette Square, York River is , a roughly milkshake with two shots of espresso. olden B the counter at Pierce pig on This is according to , where Thomas Nelson Conrad sat on a 9,000-acre military facility that opened ’s Pitt , your art will go back to normal. (No, not r eries the ex-CIA officer whose memoir in- park bench during the Civil War and in 1952 and is known to spy aficiona- 360 eally.) spired the recent movie “Syriana.” secretly kept track of President Lin- dos the world over as the Farm. New “Any man walking through the door coln’s daily movements for the Confed- recruits complete training that’s said 17 Make a beeline for the Confederate would get a lot of hard stares,” he says. eracy. Then drive down Route 1 to the to include everything from parachute 295 White House, where a slave named 3 “He’d feel like a nun in a slaugh- Afghan Restaurant, a nondescript joint drills to basic weapons handling. Ac- Mary Bowser reported on Jefferson terhouse. Probably turn around and go that’s a favorite of intel operators, ac- cording to the CIA memoir “Blowing Davis’s activities for the Union. back out.” cording to Julie Sirrs, a former De- My Cover,” author Lindsay Moran Baer had a choice club of his own fense Intelligence Agency analyst who conducted one exercise wandering that he used when training spies on the specialized in . through Colonial Williamsburg dis- Richmond EXIT 74C streets of Washington and Northern “There’ve been quite a few farewell guised as a pregnant woman. You can 60 1 64 Virginia, but he can’t locate it any- lunches at their cheap buffet,” she says, learn about a distinctly colonial cover- 295 5 more. “Look, this happened 20 years “including my own.” The $7.99 price up at the wigmaker’s shop, or just hop 95 60 ago,” he explains. tag attracts people in the spy trade. over to Pierce’s Pitt Bar-B-Que — to However, one thing is clear: Wash- They’re civil servants after all, and chow down on some smoked Porky. 288 Though the agency officially denies ington and Virginia are littered with they like a good bargain. You can take your wire off now. It’s its existence, Camp Peary is the EXIT 234 Camp espionage sites. Just after the Army As you head south to the woods at quittin’ time. — Paul Bibeau CIA’s premiere training spot. Peary created Delta Force in 1977, it con- Prince William Forest Park, you might EXIT 238 l Road Trip maps are available online at 5 Williamsburg ocks in Colonia ducted a series of drills with the FBI find it hard to believe this peaceful, sce- At the Barber and Peruke Maker (aka Hiding behind the st eat way to meet through the city’s streets — an elabo- nic area was an espionage hotbed. But www.washingtonpost.com/roadtrip, as are Williamsburg is a gr ed. addresses and hours of operation (be the wigmaker), learn about the colonial ly get taser 199 people ... and possib rate game of hide-and-seek with the G- in the early 1940s, the U.S. govern- sure to check before you go). Have an art of covering male-pattern baldness. men. Eric L. Haney, who was in the ment sent operatives here to take spy- idea for a trip? E-mail roadtrip@washpost. first class of Delta and is now a writer craft training. If your car stereo starts com. MAP BY JEROME COOKSON FOR THE WASHINGTON POST; PHOTOS BY PAUL BIBEAU FOR THE WASHINGTON POST Jantzen ENTERTAINMNET FELD ©2005 SEPARATES

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