RIVISTA DI CULTURA DEL TERRITORIO Maggio 2015 Anno 7 Numero 1 Issn 2036-8283 22 the Mouth of the River Stella
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RIVISTA DI CULTURA DEL TERRITORIO maggio 2015 Anno 7 Numero 1 issn 2036-8283 22 The mouth of the River Stella. Photograph by Stefano Zanini. 2 • 22 Forced to Focus on Quality… for the Pleasure of the Rest of the World In the 60s, agriculture in Friuli ised vineyards was low, most of was based on general farming: the grapevines were grown in every farm produced milk, meat, spaced rows and cereals were wine and grains. The leading cultivated between them. sector was undoubtedly that But that society and that land- of breeding dairy cattle which scape were going to change meant in practice 650 cooperative abruptly because of the irruption dairies. The cheese that was ob- of modernity and technical pro- tained, known as Montasio, was gress. General farming had to of high quality. Over 50% of it was yield to specialization. Many sta- consumed in the farm itself and bles were closed and the dairies was accompanied by a traditional decreased drastically in number. food of our land, ‘polenta’, a mush Many farmers turned to the mon- obtained from corn. oculture of corn, but this didn’t As for wine, beside some limited affect much the regional economy. high quality productions, produc- Others began to specialize in the The charm of the landscape and the tion in general was concentrated production of wine, taking advan- care of the buildings are elements on nutritional purposes, to face tage of the special geographical that complement the wine economy and are a resource for tourism. Lis harsh rural life. According to this and climatic conditions of the Fadis Wine Farm, in the municipality of logic, the percentage of special- region. Cividale del Friuli. 22 • 3 The average size of the farms in export half of the wine we pro- Friuli, mostly small, necessarily duce, and we have changed from a led to quality production, which production of wine sold mainly in was the only way to compete in an bulk, to a production that is mostly increasingly complex market. In sold in bottles. this sense, there is a saying among This has given rise to a production our vine growers: In Friuli we are chain that has important industrial "forced" to concentrate on quality. implications. Think, for example, The climate of our region, beside to the production of machines for Wine originated ancillary economic increasing wine quality, makes it oenology and all the equipment activities of all respect; one of these possible to grow large and diversi- that is required for wineries. And is the production of labels, often fied vine varieties and, therefore, we cannot forget to mention the delegated to also famous designers, artists and graphics. Sometimes they to get a production diversification production of labels for bottles and can be an attractive advertising vehicle that reflects our identity, that is an the production of corkscrew that for both cultural tourism and mass hinge between the Mediterranean can count on artists and graphics tourism. The Merlot grape variety, world and the continental Euro- of proven talent. which in Friuli gives a wine that bears the same name, in the second half pean one. Our wines are different Surely the creation of DOC zones of the 19th century has spread in our from those of Austria even if we (Denomination of Controlled region and has gained primacy among are so close, but they are also Origin) has stimulated the ad- the red wines. The label shown here different from those of the Italian vancement of quality of our wines, dates back to the early 70s of the 20th century. region of Apulia or from those of but the credit goes mainly to wine Dalmatia. Their characteristics, growers who have been able to so multi-faceted, are a priceless understand the times and the the production of grafted cuttings. heritage. changes that were necessary. Many The future of our region, therefore, The vineyards are now all special- of them, it must be said, work in a is related to the vine and wine: we ized and have a visual impact on difficult environment such as the have the right climate and, above the landscape which is extraordi- hills or the karst highlands. As for all, we have the human resources narily positive, dialoguing with its the plains we must say that they and professionalism. The prestig- peculiarities and characterizing it. are largely formed by the ‘grave’ ious achievements, unthinkable The cellars, once poor buildings lands (a word that Friulian has in only twenty years ago, do not make with the floor often in clay, have common with French), where the us neglect the problems that, here become "temples" of wine: the stones prevail. Only in recent times as elsewhere, this sector is facing. study of the architecture, the the tenacity of our farmers have The pragmatism of our wine- attention to detail, the elegance been able to make them profitable. makers and their ability to fight of the houses and the non-rare But it is precisely on that stony common struggles reassure us and, presence of works of art are all ‘grave’ lands, beside cooperative above all, make it possible for us to elements that complement this cellars of considerable size, that reassure those who appreciate our wine economy. And the new direc- the nursery activity related to viti- wine around the world: the Friulian tives of the Regional Tourism Plan, culture has developed. If the wines wine will delight also future gener- rightly, consider these aspects as of the Graves of Bordeaux are ations. one of the priorities. known throughout the world, vine In the last century's, 60s and 70s, nurseries of our ‘grave’ lands sup- Sergio Bolzonello the regional demand of wine was ply grapevines all over the world. Vice-President twice the production. Now the Here there are the real ‘roots of of the Autonomous situation is reversed because we wine’ and Friuli is a world leader in Friuli Venezia Giulia Region 4 • 22 INDICE Tiere furlane RIVISTA DI CULTURA DEL TERRITORIO Autorizzazione del Tribunale di Udine 9 n. 14/09 R.P. del 19/06/2009 Regione Autonoma Friuli Venezia Giulia Direzione centrale Risorse rurali, agroalimentari e forestali Maggio 2015 - anno 7 - numero 1 [email protected] Monsieur le Direttore responsabile/Senior Editor: Christian Romanini ([email protected]) Sauvignon Comitato di redazione: Grabriella Bucco, Diana Candusso, Christian An all-worthy French Romanini, Angelo Vianello, Pietro Zandigiacomo became citizen of Coordinamento editoriale/Editor-in Chief: Enos Costantini the world (but first it Hanno collaborato a questo numero/ became Friulian) Contributors for this issue: - Sergio Bolzonello Enos COSTANTINI ([email protected]) - Gabriella Bucco ([email protected]) - Giuseppe Cordioli ([email protected]) - Stefano Cosma ([email protected]) - Enos Costantini ([email protected]) 27 33 - Daniele Cˇotar - Ian D'Agata ([email protected]) - Marianna Deganutti ([email protected]) - Enrico Filaferro ([email protected]) - Luca Manfé Sauvignon The Grape ([email protected]) - Carlo Petrini Blanc in Friuli Varieties and ([email protected]) Referenze fotografiche/Photos: Venezia Giulia Wines of Friuli Quando non indicato le fotografie sono di/ If not otherwise stated: A strong identity, although Enos Costantini: front cover, right flap, pp 2, 6-7, Venezia Giulia 8, 9, 10, 12-13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 23, 25, 27, 29, 32- still a "work in progress" 33, 37, 39 left, 40, 42, 46, 49, 50, 52, 59, 69, 76, 90, 91, 92, 97, 121, 127, 128 left, 132, 133, 134, 135, 136, 137, 138, 139, 141 left, 144 Ian D'AGATA Ian D'AGATA Massimo Crivellari (POR FESR 2007 - 2013, Archivio Turismo FVG): left flap, pp 96 below, 130-131 Claudio Mattaloni: pp 34, 28, 39 right, 51 Laura Tessaro (New Cibarium, ersa 2008): pp 95, 96 above Stefano Zanini: pp 31, 36, 117, 126 right 53 61 Florence Zumello: pp 93 Ricerche iconografiche/Iconographic research: Enos Costantini Impaginazione grafica: Regione Autonoma Friuli Venezia Giulia Ufficio Stampa e Comunicazione Si ringrazia per la collaborazione/Thanks to: Enrico Filaferro Fulvio Stampa/Printed by: La Tipografica srl, Basaldella di Campoformido Tomizza’s &HUWLILFDWR3()& Grapevines and depiction of 4XHVWRSURGRWWR qUHDOL]]DWRFRQ PDWHULDSULPD GDIRUHVWHJHVWLWHLQ PDQLHUDVRVWHQLELOHH Wine in Trieste the Karst GDIRQWLFRQWUROODWH 3()& ZZZSHIFLW Chi riproduce, anche parzialmente, i testi Stefano COSMA Marianna DEGANUTTI contenuti in questo fascicolo è tenuto a citare la fonte. 22 • 5 69 72 81 Friuli Venezia Giulia, a hidden Montasio A preciuos treasure cheese leg a Friulian story Luca MANFÈ Daniele CˇOTAR Prosciutto di San Daniele 90 93 99 The numbers Friuli: a region and the rust, the where you domesticated always want to Friuli Venezia and the wild "come back soon Giulia’s sea Gian Paolo GRI Carlo PETRINI Giuseppe CORDIOLI 107 117 132 A Unique Agriculture and Region: Natural civic heraldry Environments in Friuli and Plant Wine & Art Venezia Giulia Endemics The Art of Wine in Friuli, this is how a Winery becomes an Art Gallery Enrico FILAFERRO Umberto ALBERINI and Araldicacivica.it Angelo VIANELLO Gabriella BUCCO 6 • 22 22 • 7 The Abbey of Rosazzo has been famous since the Middle Ages for its wine, in particular for Ribolla. It is here that a vine, with such very particular characteristics like the Pignolo, was saved. 8 • 22 Sauvignon: the lower side of the leaf. 22 • 9 Enos COSTANTINI Monsieur le Sauvignon An all-worthy French became citizen of the world (but first it became Friulian) The aim of this brief presentation of the Sauvignon variety is outlining its histo- ry, first in Friuli and then in Italy, with a tail piece regarding its motherland, the douce France. Sauvignon in Friuli Beautiful Sauvignonasse's bunches.