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Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907)
Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907) BuYun Chen Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in the Graduate School of Arts and Sciences COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY 2013 © 2013 BuYun Chen All rights reserved ABSTRACT Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907) BuYun Chen During the Tang dynasty, an increased capacity for change created a new value system predicated on the accumulation of wealth and the obsolescence of things that is best understood as fashion. Increased wealth among Tang elites was paralleled by a greater investment in clothes, which imbued clothes with new meaning. Intellectuals, who viewed heightened commercial activity and social mobility as symptomatic of an unstable society, found such profound changes in the vestimentary landscape unsettling. For them, a range of troubling developments, including crisis in the central government, deep suspicion of the newly empowered military and professional class, and anxiety about waste and obsolescence were all subsumed under the trope of fashionable dressing. The clamor of these intellectuals about the widespread desire to be “current” reveals the significant space fashion inhabited in the empire – a space that was repeatedly gendered female. This dissertation considers fashion as a system of social practices that is governed by material relations – a system that is also embroiled in the politics of the gendered self and the body. I demonstrate that this notion of fashion is the best way to understand the process through which competition for status and self-identification among elites gradually broke away from the imperial court and its system of official ranks. -
I. Guides to the State of the Field Song Research Tools
I. Guides to the State of the Field Page 1 of 125 Song Research Tools home | about | faq I. Guides to the State of the Field The late Etienne Balazs began formulating plans for an international, collaborative study of the Sung period as early as 1949 and formally initiated the "Sung Project" in 1954. The Project was responsible for some of the most valuable reference tools in this guide. Its history is related in: Ref (W) DS751.S86 1978x Yves Hervouet, "Introduction," (W) DS751.S86 1978x A Sung Bibliography Loc: Z3102 .S77 Hong Kong: The Chinese University Press, 1978, pp. vii-xiv. I.A. SOCIETIES, NEWSLETTERS, AND JOURNALS Societies Japan: Sōdaishi kenkyūkai 宋代史研究会 (Society for Song Studies): http://home.hiroshima-u.ac.jp/songdai/songdaishi-yanjiuhui.htm This site contains announcements for and reports on the annual meetings of the society, links to related sites, a bibliography of Japanese scholarship on Song studies (1982-2002) and a directory of Japanese scholars working in the field. Sōdaishi danwakai 宋代史談話會 (Society for the Study of Song History in Japan) http://www2u.biglobe.ne.jp/~songsong/songdai/danwakai.html Established in 1997 as a forum and reading group for young scholars of Song history active in Kyoto-Osaka-Kobe region. Includes meeting information, list of readings, and an announcement board. Sōdai shibun kenkyūkai 宋代詩文研究會 (Society for the Study of Song Literature) http://www9.big.or.jp/~co-ume/song/ http://www9.big.or.jp/~co-ume/song/danwakai.htm Includes announcements and a mailing list. Registration is required to get access to the full site. -
Indumenta Revista Museo Del Traje
INDUMENTA REVISTA MUSEO DEL TRAJE 02/2011 INDUMENTA Revista Museo del Traje 02/2011 www.mcu.es Catálogo de publicaciones de la AGE http://publicacionesoficiales.boe.es/ MINISTERIO DE CULTURA Edita: © SECRETARÍA GENERAL TÉCNICA Subdirección General de Publicaciones, Información y Documentación © De los textos y las fotografías: sus autores NIPO: 551-11-074-6 ISSN: 1133-8741 MINISTERIO DE CULTURA Ángeles González-Sinde Ministra de Cultura Mercedes E. del Palacio Tascón Subsecretaria de Cultura Ángeles Albert Directora General de Bellas Artes y Bienes Culturales Consejo de redacción Rafael García Serrano José Luis Mingote Calderón Concha Herranz Rodríguez Helena López de Hierro D’ Audabere M.ª Antonia Herradón Figueroa Irene Seco Serra Elvira González Asenjo Juan Gutiérrez Fernández-Barja Coordinación preedición Montse Moya González M.ª José Pacheco Portela Corrección de estilo Ana Guerrero Melguizo Información e intercambio Museo del Traje. CIPE Fotografías de piezas del Museo Avda. Juan de Herrera, 2 Lucía Ybarra Zubiaga 28040 Madrid José Luis García Romero Tel.: 91 550 47 00 Miguel Ángel Otero Ibáñez Fax.: 91 544 69 70 David Serrano Pascual http://museodeltraje.mcu.es Munio Rodil Ares [email protected] ÍNDICE Pág. La moda en la Restauración, 1868-1890......................................................................................................................8 Pablo Peña González Algunas consideraciones sobre el zapato femenino burgués (1860-1900) a través de la revista La Moda Elegante...................................................................................................................37 Marta Blanco Carpintero La fortuna de un motivo. El diseño de la granada en el tejido modernista catalán.....................................................................................50 Joan Miquel Llodrà Nogueras María Rosa Salvador o la pasión por la moda........................................................................................................78 Lola Gavarrón Monedas romanas en las colecciones del Museo del Traje. -
ASIAN ART Monday 8 and Tuesday 9 May 2017 Knightsbridge, London
ASIAN ART Monday 8 and Tuesday 9 May 2017 Knightsbridge, London INTERNATIONAL CHINESE CERAMICS AND WORKS OF ART TEAM Colin Sheaf Dessa Goddard Asaph Hyman ASIA AND AUSTRALIA Xibo Wang Gigi Yu John Chong Edward Wilkinson* Yvett Klein Hong Kong Hong Kong Hong Kong Hong Kong Sydney EUROPE Benedetta Mottino Sing Yan Choy Edward Luper Rachel Hyman Rosangela Assennato Ben Law Smith Ian Glennie Asha Edwards London, London, London, London, London, London, Edinburgh Edinburgh New Bond Street New Bond Street New Bond Street Knightsbridge Knightsbridge Knightsbridge USA Bruce MacLaren Nicholas Rice Ming Hua Harold Yeo Mark Rasmussen* Doris Jin Huang* New York New York New York New York New York New York Henry Kleinhenz Daniel Herskee Ling Shang San Francisco San Francisco San Francisco ASIA REPRESENTATIVES Summer Fang Bernadette Rankine Taipei Singapore Bonhams 1793 Limited Bonhams International Board Bonhams UK Ltd Directors Registered No. 4326560 Robert Brooks Co-Chairman, Colin Sheaf Chairman, Gordon McFarlan, Andrew McKenzie, Registered Office: Montpelier Galleries Malcolm Barber Co-Chairman, Harvey Cammell Deputy Chairman, Simon Mitchell, Jeff Muse, Mike Neill, Montpelier Street, London SW7 1HH Colin Sheaf Deputy Chairman, Antony Bennett, Matthew Bradbury, Charlie O’Brien, Giles Peppiatt, India Phillips, Matthew Girling CEO, Lucinda Bredin, Simon Cottle, Andrew Currie, Peter Rees, John Sandon, Tim Schofield, +44 (0) 20 7393 3900 Patrick Meade Group Vice Chairman, Paul Davidson, Jean Ghika, Veronique Scorer, James Stratton, Ralph Taylor, +44 (0) 20 7393 3905 fax Jon Baddeley, Rupert Banner, Geoffrey Davies, Charles Graham-Campbell, Matthew Haley, Charlie Thomas, David Williams, Jonathan Fairhurst, Asaph Hyman, James Knight, Richard Harvey, Robin Hereford, David Johnson, Michael Wynell-Mayow, Suzannah Yip. -
Traditional Chinese Clothing Information
TRADITIONAL CHINESE CLOTHING INFORMATION Traditional Chinese clothes were an evolution of their long, loose, straight-cut jackets and pants or gowns. The Hanfu, Zhongshan suit (Mao suit), Tang suit, and cheongsam (qipao) are the four most distinctive types of traditional Chinese clothing. The Hanfu ('Han clothing' — the. After the establishment of the People's Republic of China, the suit became a symbol of proletarian unity and was regularly worn by Communist party cadres until the s when the Western business suit largely replaced it. The specific hat knob on one's hat determined one's rank,as there were twelve types of hat knobs representing the nine distinctive ranks of the civil or military position. Other Types Traditional Manchu Clothing: It is the traditional dress of the Manchu ethnic nationality, usually in the form of long gown and sometimes with a jacket or waistcoat outside. In the s, the cheongsam changed with the influence of Western styles. Hanfu The Hanfu 'Han clothing' — the majority of Chinese are of Han ethnicity is the oldest of China's traditional clothes. White was worn when mourning and red was worn to show joy and happiness. In later years, linen, cotton, and silk were the prominent materials. China has many ethnic groups with a long history while Han people dominate most periods in history. It is suitable for wearing all the year round for both young and elderly group. Adapted from Japanese student wear, this style of dress became known as the Zhongshan suit Zhongshan being one of Sun Yat-sen's given names in Chinese. -
Tang Dynasty Clothing
Tang dynasty clothing Continue Unified and prosperous China was founded in the Tang dynasty (618-907). In Chinese history, the Tang dynasty was a period when politics and the economy were well developed and culture and art flourished. The women's dress and the personal decorations of the Tang dynasty were excellent in Chinese history. The clothing materials were fine, the texture was natural, graceful and elegant, and the decorations were brilliant. Although the shapes of the garments were still a continuation of the Han dynasty (206BC-220AD) and the Sui dynasty (581-618), they were influenced by western cultures and arts. High Tang's national power in particular was strong. Trade and cultural exchanges with Korea, Vietnam, Japan, Persian and other countries gradually became more common, sending each other ambassadors and accepting students from other countries. In this way, a special open and romantic dress style and personal decorations were formed. Due to communication with the Western regions, the impact of the dress culture of other minorities on the Tang Court also reflected a change in ideas and concepts. Chinese women were severely constrained by the old Kungfutse or feudal ethical code throughout the ages. The social status of ancient women was very low: they often served under the nameJileren (music performer), Guanji (official performer), Gongji (palace performer) andJiaji (family performer), and were considered playful and goods that rich people can sell and buy. Some women had rebel spirit in the Tang dynasty, so they climbed or jumped over walls and went into the wild to watch beautiful scenes and/or go sightseeing in the spring riding horses with men. -
Gao Qi, Wang Xing, Xu Ben, and Zhang Yu
Friendship and Place in Fourteenth Century China: Gao Qi, Wang Xing, Xu Ben, and Zhang Yu Levi Voorsmit (S0836494) [email protected] Supervisor: Prof. dr. H.G.D.G. De Weerdt Research Master Thesis, Asian Studies (Research Master) Leiden University, Faculty of Humanities Word Count: 29.534 2 August 2018 Contents Introduction ...................................................................................................................................... 3 Part one .......................................................................................................................................... 14 1. A farewell party for Tang Su ............................................................................................ 14 2. Memories of the north city wall district .......................................................................... 20 Part two .......................................................................................................................................... 28 3. The recluse dwellings of Xu Ben and Zhang Yu ............................................................... 28 4. The private estates of Li Rui and Chen Ruzhi .................................................................. 36 5. The Fan Family Garden and Numinous Cliff .................................................................... 43 6. The Requiting Kindness Monastery and Cloud Cliff Monastery ...................................... 50 7. The Stone Lion Garden in word and image .................................................................... -
The Dreaming Mind and the End of the Ming World
The Dreaming Mind and the End of the Ming World The Dreaming Mind and the End of the Ming World • Lynn A. Struve University of Hawai‘i Press Honolulu © 2019 University of Hawai‘i Press This content is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International license (CC BY-NC-ND 4.0), which means that it may be freely downloaded and shared in digital format for non-commercial purposes, provided credit is given to the author. Commercial uses and the publication of any derivative works require permission from the publisher. For details, see https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/. The Creative Commons license described above does not apply to any material that is separately copyrighted. The open-access version of this book was made possible in part by an award from the James P. Geiss and Margaret Y. Hsu Foundation. Cover art: Woodblock illustration by Chen Hongshou from the 1639 edition of Story of the Western Wing. Student Zhang lies asleep in an inn, reclining against a bed frame. His anxious dream of Oriole in the wilds, being confronted by a military commander, completely fills the balloon to the right. In memory of Professor Liu Wenying (1939–2005), an open-minded, visionary scholar and open-hearted, generous man Contents Acknowledgments • ix Introduction • 1 Chapter 1 Continuities in the Dream Lives of Ming Intellectuals • 15 Chapter 2 Sources of Special Dream Salience in Late Ming • 81 Chapter 3 Crisis Dreaming • 165 Chapter 4 Dream-Coping in the Aftermath • 199 Epilogue: Beyond the Arc • 243 Works Cited • 259 Glossary-Index • 305 vii Acknowledgments I AM MOST GRATEFUL, as ever, to Diana Wenling Liu, head of the East Asian Col- lection at Indiana University, who, over many years, has never failed to cheerfully, courteously, and diligently respond to my innumerable requests for problematic materials, puzzlements over illegible or unfindable characters, frustrations with dig- ital databases, communications with publishers and repositories in China, etcetera ad infinitum. -
Catholic Missionaries in Early Modern Asia
in Early Religious Cultures in the Early Modern World Catholic Missionaries Modern Asia Patterns of Localization Amsler, Andreea Badea, The Renaissance Ethics of Music Edited by Nadine Singing, Contemplation and Musica Humana Heyberger, and Hyun-Ah Kim Bernard Christian Windler Calvinism, Reform and the Absolutist State in Elizabethan Ireland Mark A. Hutchinson Indulgences after Luther Pa�dons in Counter-Reformation France, 1520-1720 Elizabeth C Tingle Conversion to Catholicism in Early Modern Italy Peter A. Mazur Missionary Strategies in the New World, 1610-1690 An Intellectual History Catherine Balleriaux F?�d and Religious Identities in Spain, 1400-1600 J1ll1an Williams John �wen and the Civil War Apocalypse Preachmg, Prophecy and Politics Martyn Calvin Cowan Medicine and Religion in the Life of an Ottoman Sheikh Al-Damanhuri's "Clear Statement" on Anatomy Ahmed Ragab Catholic Missionaries in Early Modern Asia Patterns of Localization Nadine Amsler, Andreea Badea, Bernard Heyberger and Christian Windler ,� !?io�!!!�f{!up For ore informat on about this series, please visit: www.routledge.com/ _ � � LONDON AND NEW YORK Rehg10us-Cultures-m-the-Early-Moderri-World/book-series/RCEMW 0 r First published 2020 Contents by Routledge 2 Park Square, Milton Park, Abingdon, Oxon OXl 4 4 RN and by Routledge 52 Vanderbilt Avenue, New York, NY 10017 Routledge is an imprint of the Taylor & Francis Group, an informa business © 2020 selection and editorial matter, Nadine Amsler, Andreea Badea, Bern�rd Heyberger and Christian Windler; individual chapters, the contnbutors The right of Nadine Am ler, A dreea Badea, Bernard Heyberger and _ _ � r: Chnstian Wmdler to be 1dent1fied as the authors of the editorial material, and of the authors for their individual chapters, has been _ asserted m accordance with sections 77 and 78 of the Copyright, _ viii Designs and Patents Act 1988. -
Sicilian Chinese Art Collections and Chinoiserie
ARCHITETTURA, ARTI E PIANIFICAZIONE DIPARTIMENTO DI ARCHITETTURA L-ART 04 – MUSEOLOGIA E CRITICA ARTISTICA E DEL RESTAURO SICILIAN CHINESE ART COLLECTIONS AND CHINOISERIE IL DOTTORE IL COORDINATORE Mei Xiaoxue Prof. Marco Rosario Nobile IL TUTOR CO TUTOR Prof. Pierfrancesco Palazzotto Dr. Alexander Auf der Heyde CICLO XXX 2018 ABSTRACT L'Europa ha creato uno stile unico di design decorativo nei secoli XVII-XVIII che è stato profondamente ispirato allo stile orientale di Cina, Giappone e India. Lo stile europeo è rimasto sconosciuto alla Cina in quel momento, ed è anche raramente menzionato nella storia dell'arte moderna e del design cinese. Tuttavia, la Chinoiserie ha rappresentato un tema ricorrente all'interno degli stili artistici europei, che non si presenta come una moda regionale, ma bensì come un movimento d'arte complesso e variabile in tutta Europa. La significativa ricerca sul design Chinoiserie è stata intrapresa nei XX-XXI secoli, con centinaia di monografie e articoli pubblicati in inglese, francese, tedesco e italiano, discutendo direttamente e indirettamente della Chinoiserie. La Sicilia, la più grande isola del Mediterraneo, ha un brillante patrimonio storico e culturale. Nella prima metà del XIX secolo, la Sicilia e il Regno di Napoli furono uniti nel Regno delle Due Sicilie dalla Casa di Borbone. La Chinoiserie fu introdotta in Sicilia un po' più tardi come stile decorativo ben sviluppato dopo essere stato influenzato in un certo grado negli altri paesi europei. Nonostante il numero limitato di prodotti orientali in Sicilia, le opere d'arte uniche qui sono encomiabili. Questa tesi interpreta la Chinoiserie Siciliana in quattro aspetti principali: le opere d‘arte tradizionali della Cina, i prodotti cinesi di esportazione, i prodotti mimetici dell‘Europa e la Chinoiserie siciliana all'interno del movimento d'arte europeo. -
Schuyler V. R. Cammann Papers 1146 Finding Aid Prepared by L
Schuyler V. R. Cammann papers 1146 Finding aid prepared by L. Rosen. Last updated on March 02, 2017. University of Pennsylvania, Penn Museum Archives 7/2009 Schuyler V. R. Cammann papers Table of Contents Summary Information....................................................................................................................................3 Biography/History..........................................................................................................................................4 Scope and Contents....................................................................................................................................... 5 Administrative Information........................................................................................................................... 5 Controlled Access Headings..........................................................................................................................6 Published Articles.......................................................................................................................................... 6 Collection Inventory.................................................................................................................................... 12 Correspondence......................................................................................................................................12 Personal................................................................................................................................................. -
China's Industrial and Military Robotics Development
China’s Industrial and Military Robotics Development by Jonathan Ray, Katie Atha, Edward Francis, Caleb Dependahl, Dr. James Mulvenon, Daniel Alderman, and Leigh Ann Ragland-Luce Research Report Prepared on Behalf of the U.S.-China Economic and Security Review Commission October 2016 Disclaimer: This research report was prepared at the request of the Commission to support its deliberations. Posting of the Report to the Commission's website is intended to promote greater public understanding of the issues addressed by the Commission in its ongoing assessment of U.S.-China economic relations and their implications for U.S. security, as mandated by Public Law 106-398 and Public Law 113-291. However, it does not necessarily imply an endorsement by the Commission or any individual Commissioner of the views or conclusions expressed in this commissioned research report. i About Defense Group Incorporated Defense Group Inc. (DGI) performs work in the national interest, advancing public safety and national security through innovative research, analysis, and applied technology. The DGI enterprise conducts research and analysis in defense and intelligence problem areas, provides high- level systems engineering services to selected national and homeland security organizations, and produces hardware and software products for government and commercial consumers. About CIRA This project was conducted within DGI’s Center for Intelligence Research and Analysis (CIRA), the premier open source and cultural intelligence exploitation cell for the U.S. intelligence community. Staffed by an experienced team of cleared analysts with advanced language skills, CIRA’s mission is to provide cutting-edge, open source, and cultural intelligence support to the collection, analytical, and operational activities of the U.S.