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Fortune Embroidered La Fortuna Bordada

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Fortune Embroidered La Fortuna Bordada LA FORTUNA BORDADA INDUMENTARIA TAIWANESA DEL MUSEO NACIONAL DE HISTORIA, TAIPEI, TAIWÁN FORTUNE EMBROIDERED HISTORICAL TAIWANESE EMBROIDERY FROM THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF HISTORY COLLECTION LA FORTUNA BORDADA INDUMENTARIA TAIWANESA DEL MUSEO NACIONAL DE HISTORIA, TAIPEI, TAIWÁN FORTUNE EMBROIDERED HISTORICAL TAIWANESE EMBROIDERY FROM THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF HISTORY COLLECTION EXPOSICIÓN Organizada por: Ministerio de Educación, Cultura y Deporte Museo Nacional de Artes Decorativas Museo Nacional de Historia, Taipei, Taiwán Comisarias: Tzu-an Chang y Genoveva Hui-miao Kuo Imagen y diseño: Petrichor Design & Interior Deco. Traducción de textos: Jen-yi Lai (inglés), Ramón Santos (castellano) Redactor de textos: Mark Rawson (inglés) Museografía y montaje: Museo Nacional de Historia, Taipei, Taiwán Museo Nacional de Artes Decorativas Instituciones colaboradoras: Safety Packing & Transport Co., Ltd. South China Insurance Co., Ltd. CATÁLOGO Diseño: Pei-en Lian Traducción de textos: Jen-yi Lai (inglés), Ramón Santos (castellano) Fotografía: Museo Nacional de Historia, Taipei, Taiwán Edición: Tzu-an Chang y Genoveva Hui-miao Kuo Impresión: Suhai Design & Production NIPO: 030-17-002-5 Introducción Introduction El bordado es el arte del diseño ornamental elaborado con aguja sobre Embroidery is the art of needle-working ornamental designs on silk, cotton seda, algodón u otros materiales. Los bordados como arte combinan la or other fabric. Embroidery as an art form combines the composition of composición de motivos decorativos, la mezcla de hilos de colores y las decorative motifs, the matching of colors of threads, and the techniques técnicas de costura. Flores, frutas, pájaros y bestias son los motivos más of stitching. Flowers, fruits, birds, and beasts are the most commonly used comunes en los ornamentos de los bordados chinos de trajes tradicionales, motifs in Chinese embroidery ornaments on traditional attire because of tanto por su aspecto decorativo como por sus connotaciones de buena both their decorative appeal and their auspicious connotations. In addition, fortuna. Además, la decoración bordada siempre ha sido indicador de embroidered ornaments are indicators of social rank. The varied motifs rango social. La variedad de motivos de pájaros y bestias en los trajes de of birds and beasts embroidered on official surcoats, for instance, denote los oficiales, por ejemplo, denotaba el rango exacto que poseían. Los specific official ranks. Ornamental designs embody traditional ideas of diseños ornamentales encarnan ideas tradicionales, asociadas a símbolos de auspicious emblems, conveying metaphorical meanings by means of buen augurio. Por medio de la asociación fonética, trasmiten significados phonetic association and symbolic connotation. Their decorative motifs and metafóricos y connotaciones simbólicas. Los motivos y formas decorativas se forms represent tangible prayers for happiness and fortune, expressed in all reflejan en plegarias por la felicidad y la fortuna, y se plasman en todo tipo types of daily-life apparel. de prendas de la vida cotidiana. Taiwan is an island situated to the southeast of China. From 1683 to the Taiwán es una isla situada al sureste de China. Desde 1683 hasta la mitad mid-1800s, Qing China governed Taiwan with a passive attitude, with laws del siglo XIX, la Dinastía Qing gobernó Taiwán con pasiva actitud prohibiendo banning free travel to Taiwan, which greatly constrained the social and mediante leyes el libre comercio, lo que constriñó de forma dramática el economic development of Taiwan. The great majority of Chinese who found desarrollo social y económico de la isla. La mayoría de la población china their way to Taiwan were unattached males. Even Qing officials and military que se dirigió a Taiwán estaba formada por hombres solteros. Incluso los personnel stationed in Taiwan were forbidden to bring their wives or families funcionarios Qing y el personal militar allí destinado tenían prohibido with them. Not until the second half of the nineteenth century were several llevar a sus parejas y familias a vivir a la isla. No fue hasta la segunda mitad of Taiwan’s ports opened up for trade, when Taiwan, as an immigrant society del siglo XIX cuando algunos puertos de Taiwán se abrieron al comercio saw increased growth of varied economic activities. produciendo un incremento de la inmigración y de nuevas actividades económicas. Taiwan didn’t grow cotton or produce silk, but many Taiwanese women were able embroiderers, working on fabrics mainly imported from China to A pesar de que en Taiwán no se cultivaba algodón ni se producía seda, make embroidery a significant source of local household income. In terms muchas mujeres taiwanesas, que eran hábiles bordadoras, trabajaban con of style, their works reflect the clear influence of Chinese embroidery of the telas importadas en su mayoría de China para hacer de los bordados una Fujian and Guangdong areas, with vivid color contrast, brilliant tonality and fuente importante de ingresos en el ámbito doméstico. En términos de estilo elaborate layouts. su trabajo refleja una clara influencia de los bordados chinos de las zonas de Fujian y Guangdong, utilizando fuertes contrastes de colores, tonalidades In the collection of the National Museum of History, there are approximately brillantes y diseños muy elaborados. 1,000 woven artifacts, mainly clothing and daily life items from the second half of nineteenth century Taiwan. Seventy-four sets of artifacts have been En la colección del Museo Nacional de Historia existen aproximadamente selected from the NMH collection, in two major categories—the attire of 1000 piezas tejidas, principalmente prendas de vestir y objetos de la vida the commonalty and the rank badges on officials’ surcoats—with the goal of cotidiana de la segunda mitad del siglo XIX en Taiwán. Para esta exposición presenting to the Western audience the art of embroidery and its rich cultural se han escogido 74 piezas divididas en dos amplias categorías: por un lado, significance. Special thanks go to the National Museum of Decorative Arts vestimenta de la gente común, y por otro lado las insignias distintivas en for its support of this exhibition, and the Taipei Economic and Cultural Office las sobrevestas (túnicas) de los oficiales militares. El objetivo es presentar in Spain for its assistance, without either of which the successful organization al público occidental el arte del bordado y su rico significado cultural. of the event would not have been possible. The National Museum of History Queremos agradecer al Museo Nacional de Artes Decorativas su apoyo para has spared no effort to promote international cultural exchanges. We hope, llevar a cabo esta exposición y a la Oficina Económica y Cultural de Taipei through these beautiful embroidered works, to share blessings and good por su ayuda, sin la cual esta exposición no se hubiera llevado a cabo. El wishes with our international friends. Museo Nacional de Historia no ha escatimado esfuerzos para promover los intercambios culturales internacionales. Esperamos que a través de estos bellos bordados podamos compartir bendiciones y buena fortuna con nuestros amigos internacionales. 4 5 Diseño Ornamentales Ornamental Designs Los diseños ornamentales encarnan ideas tradicionales de símbolos de buen Ornamental designs embody traditional ideas of auspicious emblems, conveying augurio. Por medio de la asociación fonética, trasmiten significados metafóricos metaphorical meanings by means of phonetic association and symbolic y connotaciones simbólicas. Los motivos y formas decorativas se reflejan en connotation. The decorative motifs and forms represent tangible prayers for plegarias por la felicidad y la fortuna, y se plasman en todo tipo de prendas de happiness and fortune, expressed in all types of daily-life apparel. There is a la vida cotidiana. Hay una considerable variedad de motivos ornamentales y considerable variety of ornamental motifs and designs, the most popular of which diseños, los más populares son: are: Motivos de flores y frutas: Las peonías representan riqueza y nobleza. Las Flower and fruit motifs: peonies represent wealth and nobility. Plums, orchids, ciruelas, las orquídeas, el bambú y los crisantemos representan el elevado bamboo and chrysanthemums represent the lofty spirit and virtue of the espíritu y virtud de los caballeros tradicionales chinos. La granada simboliza la traditional Chinese gentlemen. Pomegranate fruits symbolize fertility. fertilidad. Bird and beast motifs: the phoenix represents nobility, the bat happin ess, the Motivos de pájaros y bestias: El fénix representa nobleza, el murciélago felicidad, deer good fortune, the turtle longevity, etc. el ciervo representa buena fortuna y la tortuga longevidad. Chinese character-shaped patterns: characters such as 卍 (Wan, an auspicious Patrones en forma de caracteres chinos: caracteres como 卍 (Wan, un auspicioso emblem in religious arts) and 壽 (Shou, longevity), imply rotation, infinity and emblema en las artes religiosas) y 壽 (Shou, longevidad) implican rotación, longevity. infinitud y longevidad. Linear patterns: patterns of clouds, waves and endless knots, represent Patrones lineales: patrones de nubes, olas y nudos infinitos, representan buenos auspiciousness and prayers for blessings. augurios y bendiciones. Patrón de carácter 卍 Patrón de nudos infinitos Motivo de murciélago Pattern of character 卍 Pattern of endless knots Motif of bat Patrón de nubes ｜ Pattern of clouds Patrón de olas ｜ Pattern of waves Motivos de flores
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