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Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018
The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 Front Cover Image: Textile Detail of an Evening Dress, circa 1950s, Maker Unknown, Middlesex University Fashion Collection, London, England, F2021AB. The Middlesex University Fashion Collection comprises approximately 450 garments for women and men, textiles, accessories including hats, shoes, gloves, and more, plus hundreds of haberdashery items including buttons and trimmings, from the nineteenth century to the present day. Browse the Middlesex University Fashion Collection at https://tinyurl.com/middlesex-fashion. The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 Editor–in–Chief Jennifer Daley Editor Scott Hughes Myerly Proofreader Georgina Chappell Published by The Association of Dress Historians [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org Copyright © 2018 The Association of Dress Historians ISSN 2515–0995 Online Computer Library Centre (OCLC) accession #988749854 The Journal of Dress History is the academic publication of The Association of Dress Historians through which scholars can articulate original research in a constructive, interdisciplinary, and peer reviewed environment. The Association of Dress Historians supports and promotes the advancement of public knowledge and education in the history of dress and textiles. The Association of Dress Historians (ADH) is Registered Charity #1014876 of The Charity Commission for England and Wales. The Journal of Dress History is copyrighted by the publisher, The Association of Dress Historians, while each published author within the journal holds the copyright to their individual article. The Journal of Dress History is circulated solely for educational purposes, completely free of charge, and not for sale or profit. -
2017-2018 Updated Fashion Design
Fashion Design The Hoot Addendum #4 This addendum replaces the Fashion Design section (pages 231 – 238) of the 2017-18 The Hoot. Revised December 1, 2017 BACK TO CONTENTS | 231 FASHION DESIGN Innovation in fashion design results from a rigorous process of developing and editing ideas that address specific design challenges. Students in our program work alongside expert, professional faculty and guest mentors, who are current and visible designers, to become educated and practiced in all aspects of the design process. Throughout their experience, students produce original designs and develop collections for their portfolio. In their Junior and Senior year, students have the opportunity to work in teams to create unique designs under the guidance of mentors, emulating professional designers and following the industry's seasonal schedule. Recent mentors for the Junior and Senior class have included Anthropologie, Urban Outfitters, Nike, Roxy, Armani Exchange, BCBG, Trina Turk, Ruben & Isabel Toledo, and Bob Mackie. Junior and Senior designs are featured at the annual Scholarship Benefit and Fashion Show at the Beverly Hilton. FASHION DESIGN WITH AN EMPHASIS IN COSTUME DESIGN Students may choose to pursue an emphasis in Costume Design. With a focus on new directions in character development for film, television, live performance, concept art, and video, students emerge from the Costume Design Emphasis track as relevant, creative professionals prepared for the future direction of this exciting field. Under the guidance of critically-acclaimed costume design professionals and leading costume houses, students will produce original designs and dynamic illustrations, combining traditional and digital methods, for their portfolios. Costume Design mentors have included: Disney, Cirque du Soleil, Theadora Van Runkle, Betsy Heimann, Western Costume, Bill Travilla, and Bob Mackie. -
11. Contemporary Traditions a Chronicle of Exhibition Practice of the Jamdani by Abeer Gupta.Pdf
Projects / Processes Volume I Series Editor: Senjuti Mukherjee Constructing Traditions: The Jamdani within Exhibition Practice of Handicrafts Abeer Gupta Installation view of “Weftscapes: Jamdani Across New Horizons” at Serendipity Arts Festival 2019. Photograph by Philippe Calia and Sunil Thakkar. Weftscapes Jamdani Across New Horizons Curated by Pramod Kumar KG Venue Adil Shah Palace Installation view of “Weftscapes: Jamdani Across New Horizons” at Serendipity Arts Festival 2019. Photograph by Philippe Calia and Sunil Thakkar. PROJECTS / PROCESSES Curatorial Note Curatorial By Pramod Kumar KG Curatorial Assistant Ankita Chugh Artists Bappaditya Biswas, Rumi Biswas Exhibition Design Vertex Inc. Weftscapes examines a fresh approach to the creation and making of jamdani fabrics, both in its weaving, choice of raw materials, colour, patterns, designs and the end product – a finished garment. Multiple intertwined yet disparate stories coming together in this contemporary initiative. The versatility of the jamdani weaving technique involves the use of a supplementary weft technique. The idea here is to explore the various possibilities of introducing different yarns, materials, and constructions into the weave. The ingenuity of Indian handlooms and the dexterity of its weavers allows for a unique experiment where diverse materials and objects are strung and woven in by hand through the fabric. Bengal’s history is strewn with references to the Indigo trade and its impact on her people. An important aspect of jamdani was the use of the colour indigo which also lent its name to several lengths of fabric with the iconic Nilambari sari becoming popular across the subcontinent. This project has exclusively used the Indigo palette with its non-traditional yarns being dyed in organic Indigo vats; 10 Constructing Traditions namely in a banana vat, dates vat, and the henna vat. -
Jas Textile, Hooghly
We are counted as one of the most reliable manufacturer, exporter and supplier of premium quality designer sarees. These have massive demand in the market due to their optimal quality and attractive designs. - Profile - Incorporated in the year 2011, at Hooghly (West Bengal, India), we, Jas Textile are involved in manufacturing, exporting and supplying the finest quality range of Designer Sarees. The offered range comprises Classical Embroidery Sarees, Dhakai Jamdani Sarees, Cotton Tangail Sarees, Block with Kantha Stitch Dress Material, Block with Reverse Kantha Stitch, Tant Fabric Sarees, Tant Banarasi Sarees, etc. These are designed with high precision in order to meet the set global standards. Furthermore, the fabric we use in the fabrication purpose is procured from only certified and reliable vendors of the market. The offered range is available in variegated colors, styles and patterns. To meet the diverse requirements of customers, we offer our exclusive range of sarees in numerous customized options. We are offering these products to our esteemed clients at the most competitive prices. To fabricate the finest quality range of products, our organization has established a well-organized state-of-the-art infrastructure facility. This is equipped with all the most recent and essential technology to match the global quality parameters. In addition to this, we have segregated our infrastructure into various departments such as manufacturing, quality testing, warehousing and packaging. Handloom Sarees: The exclusive range of Handloom Sarees offered by us is widely appreciated across the globe due to its designer pallu and border. Our teams of creative designers beautifully design these sarees and suits using zari or kasavu (gold thread work). -
Florence Nelson Kennedy FASHION ILLUSTRATOR
^sp-""* ' Florence Nelson Kennedy FASHION ILLUSTRATOR Pat Kennedy Crump lorence Nelson Kennedy often called herself a "stubborn Swede." Determined would have been a better description. She started to draw at an early age and loved doing it; she ac knowledged that she was an artist and deter Fmined to pursue a career in fashion illustration. At first, she may not have known that this ambition had great potential in her time. In the early decades of the twentieth century, opportunities were plentiful for commercial artists of all types, as advertising and pub lishing depended heavily on illustration, rather than photography. One means of preparing for such a career, espe cially for students who lived far from metropolitan ar eas, was instruction by mail. Universities had proven that home study was an excellent method of training, but it was a new idea in the field of commercial art. The Federal School of Commercial Designing, estab lished in Minneapolis in 1914, was adapted from a thor ough course employed by the Bureau of Engraving, a Minneapolis printing and engraving firm. Early school advertisements drew immediate responses, and the firm's success grew. The school started thousands of artists on successful careers, and Florence Nelson Ken nedy was one of them.' 'Colgate Buckbee, "How An Idea Grew Into the World's Largest Home Study Art School," The Illustrator (Minneapo lis), Winter-Spring 1964, p. 4-5; Joseph G. Almars (son of Joseph Almars, one of the Federal Schools' founders), tele phone interview with the author, Feb. 11, 1992; Minneapolis Star, Jan. 2, 1964, p. -
Textiles for Dress 1800-1920
Draft version only: not the publisher’s typeset P.A. Sykas: Textiles for dress 1800-1920 Textile fabrics are conceived by the manufacturer in terms of their material composition and processes of production, but perceived by the consumer firstly in terms of appearance and handle. Both are deeply involved in the economic and cultural issues behind the wearing of cloth: cost, quality, meaning. We must look from these several perspectives in order to understand the drivers behind the introduction of fabrics to the market, and the collective response to them in the form of fashion. A major preoccupation during our time frame was novelty. On the supply side, novelty gave a competitive edge, stimulated fashion change and accelerated the cycle of consumption. On the demand side, novelty provided pleasure, a way to get noticed, and new social signifiers. But novelty can act in contradictory ways: as an instrument for sustaining a fashion elite by facilitating costly style changes, and as an agent for breaking down fashion barriers by making elite modes more affordable. It can drive fashion both by promoting new looks, and later by acting to make those looks outmoded. During the long nineteenth century, the desire for novelty was supported by the widely accepted philosophical view of progress: that new also implied improved or more advanced, hence that novelty was a reflection of modernity. This chapter examines textiles for dress from 1800 to 1920, a period that completed the changeover from hand-craft to machine production, and through Europe’s imperial ambitions, saw the reversal of East/West trading patterns. -
A Study of Fashion Art Illustration
Journal of Fashion Business Vol. 6, No. 3. pp.94~109(2002) A Study of Fashion Art Illustration Kang, Hee-Myung and Kim, Hye-Kyung* Lecturer, Doctoral, Dept. of Fashion Design, Dongduk Women’s University Professor, Dept. of Fashion Design, Dongduk Women’s University* Abstract The advent of the information age, advancement of the multi-media, and proliferation of internet are all ushering-in a new era of a cyber world. The artistic expression is unfolding into a new genre of a new era.. In the modern art, the boundary between the fine art and the applied art is becoming blurred, and further, distinction of fine art from popular art is also becoming meaningless. The advancement of science and technology, by offering new materials and visual forms, is contributing to the expansion of the morden art’s horizon. As fashion illustration is gaining recognition as a form of art which mirrors today’s realities, it has also become increasingly necessary to add variety and newness. Fashion illustration is thus becoming the visual language of the modern world, capable of conveying artistic emotion, and at the same time able to effectively communicate the image of fashion to the masses. The increasing awareness of artistic talent and ingenuity as essential components of fashion illustration is yielding greater fusion between fashion illustration and art &technology. This has resulted in the use of the advanced computer technology as a tool for crafting artistic expressions, such as fashion illustration, and this new tool has opened-up new possibilities for expressing images and colors. Further, the computer-aided fashion illustration is emerging as a new technique for expression. -
African Lace
Introduction Does changing an original material destroy its traditional context? If a material assumes new meaning or significance in a new context, is this inherently an appropriation of the object? What loss does this cause, and is it a positive change, a negative one, or neither? This lexicon revolves around African Lace. Through an analysis of this particular material, I broadly explain, craftsmanship, authenticity and reasons behind an object’s creation, including why and how it is made, from which materials, and how the object translates into a specific environment. Various kinds of objects are created in and relate to specific places and time periods. If situated in an environment in which it did not originate, the meaning of an object changes. In fact, the object is used from a new perspective. Although it is possible to reuse an object as a source of inspiration or research, it cannot be used as it was in its previous context. Thus, it is necessary to rethink the authenticity of an object when it is removed from its past context. History is important and can explain a materials origin, and it therefore warrants further attention. A lack of knowledge results in a loss of authenticity and originality of a historical material. In view of this, I develop this Lexicon to elaborate on the importance of this historical attention. It is interesting to consider how an object can influence a user in relation to emotional or even material value. The extent of this influence is uncertain, but it is a crucial aspect since any situation could diminish the value and the meaning of an object. -
Haute Designers, Master Weavers
TREND WATCH LFW Summer Resort ‘16 HAUTE DESIGNERS, MASTER WEAVERS Lakme Fashion Week has set a benchmark for Indian designers. MEHER CASTELINO reports on the highlights. ASIF SHAIKH GAURANG MAKU INDIGENE BANERJEE PAROMITA FIBRE2FASHION he fabulous Walking Hand in Hand – The Craft + Design + TSociety show was one of the highlights of the first day at Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2016. The innovative presentation featured India’s five top designers who teamed up with the best craftspersons and expert weavers. They displayed creations that combined designer and craft skills. Day Two was devoted to Sustainable and Indian Textiles. Designers presented interesting collections, showcasing textiles and crafts and also upcycling and recycling fabrics. The message was clear: fashion can be sustainable. Chikankari came Giving kinkhab The glory of the alive on the ramp under his amazing touches, leheriya was brought the creative guidance Rajesh Pratap Singh centre stage by of Aneeth Arora. worked with master Anupama Bose’s skills Master craftsman weaver Haseem and Islammuddin Jakir Hussain Mondol Muhammad for a Neelgar’s expertise. worked his magic on striking collection of The gorgeous leheriya the pretty summer formal westernwear. designs in rainbow dresses, cool blouses, Using rich, golden hues were turned into layered minis, softly brocade with floral stunning ensembles. embroidered long- weaves, Singh A ravishing red kaftan, sleeved covers, presented culottes with a feminine green/ delicately embellished cropped tops, bias cut blue gown, an electric midis, skirts and gowns jackets, dhoti pants, anarkali, a variety of in shades of white and capris, coat dresses, sarees in leheriya and pale blue/grey. -
Utilization of Nigerian Made Fabrics for Garment Making Among Academic and Non Academic Female Staff in Enugu State
UTILIZATION OF NIGERIAN MADE FABRICS FOR GARMENT MAKING AMONG ACADEMIC AND NON ACADEMIC FEMALE STAFF IN ENUGU STATE BY AGBO BLESSING NONYELUM PG/M.Ed/12/64238 DEPARTMENT OF HOME ECONOMICS AND HOSPITALITY MANAGEMENT EDUCATION, UNIVERSITY OF NIGERIA, NSUKKA JUNE, 2017. TITLE PAGE UTILIZATION OF NIGERIAN MADE FABRICS FOR GARMENT MAKING AMONG ACADEMIC AND NON ACADEMIC FEMALE STAFF IN ENUGU STATE BY AGBO BLESSING NONYELUM PG/M.Ed/12/64238 A RESEARCH REPORT SUBMITTED TO THE DEPARTMENT OF HOME ECONOMICS AND HOSPITALITY MANAGEMENT, UNIVERSITY OF NIGERIA NSUKKA, IN PARTIAL FULFILLMENT OF THE REQUIREMENTS FOR THE AWARD OF MASTERS DEGREE IN CLOTHING AND TEXTILE JUNE, 2017 APPROVAL PAGE The project has been approved for the Department of Home Economics and Hospitality Management Education, University of Nigeria, Nsukka DR. MRS. N. M. EZE Prof. E. U. ANYAKOHA Supervisor Head of Department ________________________ ____________________________ External Examiner Internal Examiner _____________________________________ Prof. C.A. Igbo Dean, Faculty of Vocation and Technical Education CERTIFICATION AGBO, BLESSING NONYELUM, a Postgraduate student in the Department of Home Economics and Hospitality Management Education with Registration Number PG/M.ED/12/64238, has satisfactorily completed the requirements for the award of Masters Degree in Home Economics Education (Clothing and Textile). The work embodied in this project is original and has not been submitted in part or full for another diploma or degree in this or any other university. _________________________ ____________________________ AGBO, BLESSING N. DR. N.M. EZE Student Supervisor DEDICATION This research work is dedicated to Almighty God for granting me wisdom, guidance and protection throughout the period of this study. -
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VISION Government Polytechnic, Aurangabad will be world class technical institute pursuing for excellence, catering to the needs of global community, striving for its harmonious development by inculcating lifelong learning skills to serve for the socio economic development having concerned for ecology and social harmony MISSION To create multi disciplinary best citizens to suit local, state, National and International needs having scientific temperament , moral ethics , values and multi facetted proactive personality by providing excellent education system ii Date CERTIFICATE This is to certify that the Curriculum of Diploma in Dress Designing and Garment Manufacturing Programme has been implemented with effect from 2011-2012. This Curriculum Document contains pages from to and from to Head of In Charge Principal Dress Designing and Curriculum Development Cell Government Polytechnic Garment Manufacturing Government Polytechnic Aurangabad Aurangabad Aurangabad iii Date CERTIFICATE This is to certify that the Curriculum of Diploma in Dress Designing and Garment Manufacturing Programme of Govt. Polytechnic Aurangabad (An Autonomous Institute of Govt. of Maharashtra), which has been implemented with effect from 2011-12 academic year, is equivalent to Diploma in Dress Designing and Garment Manufacturing Programme Implemented by Maharashtra State Board of Technical Education, therefore Equivalence is hereby granted. Member Member Member ( ) ( ) ( ) Member Member Member ( ) ( ) ( ) Member Member Member ( ) ( ) ( ) Member Secretary Chairman ( ) ( ) iv Index SR. CONTENTS COURSE PAGE CODE NO. NO. 1. Scope of Diploma In Dress Designing & Garment Mfg. ------ 8-12 2. Strategy adopted for Curriculum Development ------------- 13-16 3. Sample Path -10th Pass -------------- 17 4. Level Wise Course Structure --------------- 18-24 5. Semester Wise Course Structure -------------- 25-30 6. Basic Drawing-I [BDR-I ] 5D101 31-32 7. -
Indigenous Textile As a Veritable Instrument for Assuaging the Effects of National Economic Meltdown in Nigeria: Aso-Oke in Focus
IOSR Journal of Polymer and Textile Engineering (IOSR-JPTE) e-ISSN: 2348-019X, p-ISSN: 2348-0181, Volume 7, Issue 3 (May - June 2020), PP 01-11 www.iosrjournals.org Indigenous Textile As A Veritable Instrument For Assuaging The Effects Of National Economic Meltdown In Nigeria: Aso-Oke In Focus Oghale Okpu1and Ogundipe V. Abimbola2 1Department of Fine and Applied Arts, Delta State University, Abraka 2Department of Fine and Applied Arts, Osun State College Of Education, Ilesha Abstract: As the waves of the financial crisis began to pound the centers of world finance, there have been some belated recognition of the danger posed by short term capital flows. Countries afflicted by the financial crisis have been forced to take their own measures to protect their economy. This paper proposes the use of Indigenous Textile (Aso-oke) as one of the instruments by which the problem of national economic meltdown in Nigeria can be solved by providing self reliance and job opportunities to other numerous people. The paper examines the history of Indigenous textile (Aso-oke), and reveals the raw materials for producing it. The paper also examines the prospect of traditional cloth production with its accompanying benefit of assuaging the delectating consequences of national economic meltdown. The paper makes recommendations on how such prospects can be utilized for national development. Keywords:Economic meltdown, Assuaging, Aso-oke, Weaving and Loom. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Date of Submission: 12-06-2020 Date of Acceptance: 29-06-2020 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I. Introduction Everyone educated or not, has known by now, that something is terribly wrong with the economy of nations.