England Fans’ Guide to Russia in association with the England Supporters Travel Club FIFA WORLD CUP 2018 TRAVELLER TACTICS

PREPARATION Check out the latest travel advice for Russia and information on the different regions, local laws and customs

Healthcare FAN ID VISAS PASSPORT The European Health Insurance Once you have an official ticket If you do not have an official Look after your passport and Card (EHIC) is not valid in Russia, you will need to apply for a Fan ID. ticket you will need to apply for keep it in a safe place. Make so it is essential that you take This replaces the need for a a visa to enter Russia. Allow sure it is valid for at least out travel insurance appropriate separate visa. You must apply plenty of time and make sure it 6 months after the expiry date for all the activities you plan to do for it before you travel covers the length of your stay of your visa or Fan ID. Take 2 copies of it and always keep one with you

MATCH TICKETS GETTING AROUND ACCOMMODATION STAY UP TO DATE Only purchase tickets from Plan your journeys, Russia is You are required to register in every Sign up for travel advice official suppliers. You will need a huge country and distances host city visited within email alerts at a Fan ID linked to your ticket to between cities can be vast. Official 24 hours of arrival. Book gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/russia enter a stadium match ticket and Fan ID holders can accommodation in advance and apply for free travel on check that your hotel or host selected trains has registered your stay in each destination

BE RESPONSIBLE IF THINGS GO WRONG Always follow the advice of local authorities In the event of an emergency, call 112. and respect local laws and customs. For consular assistance, for example if you Anti-social behaviour including excessive alcohol lose your passport, call +7 495 956 7200 consumption will not be tolerated

#BeOnTheBall gov.uk/russia2018 @fcotravel @FCOtravel

000 FCO World Cup advice.indd 1 12/04/2018 15:06 Foreword

This book has been written and possibility of changes due to a fluid compiled by the Football Supporters’ situation. We would therefore recommend Foreword Federation, and it is the product of a you supplement what you find here partnership between ourselves, the by keeping an eye out for updated Football Association and the Foreign information as it becomes available and Commonwealth Office. We have through all the usual channels. long worked together to provide the best possible backing for English fans English football has a lot to be proud of, travelling to tournaments, but this time and central to that is its welcoming and the co-operation has been closer than inclusive nature. The English fanbase is ever, not least because of the challenging passionate and diverse, uniting people circumstances leading up to kick-off. of all backgrounds behind our team, and the World Cup provides a great It will be no surprise to anyone who opportunity to demonstrate all those has kept abreast of the news that there positive features in practice, in the have been some tensions in political stadiums and in the cities. So, no matter relationships with Russia, and this has what our race, gender, heritage, faith posed a few extra challenges in providing or sexual orientation, or even what club the sort of support services that regular we support, at the World Cup we are travellers have become used to previously. all England – let’s unite, look after one We have all done our best to provide as another, embrace the experience of much accurate and up-to-date information meeting new fans and new cultures and and advice as possible, but inevitably with a bit of luck, cheer England all the there will be a few gaps, and even the way to the final.

is even more the case when we consider A message from the manager the challenges involved in travelling to summer tournaments. I am very excited about our young and talented group of “It was always my players, and know you will once again dream to play for get behind them when they run out on to England so to have the pitch wearing the Three Lions. I know the opportunity from talking to them that they are all fans now to manage the too. Each has their own story of growing national team going up watching England teams compete on to a World Cup is an the biggest stage and each wants nothing incredible honour. more than to do their very best.

We have been working hard for several All of us connected to England - fans, months to prepare in the right way and are staff and players alike - have a unique determined to make the country proud. opportunity to inspire a nation and project the very best of our country to the rest of On behalf of my staff and the squad, I the world. We are in this together. want to express our gratitude to all fans making the trip out to the finals. We never Thanks again for your wonderful support.” take your support for granted but that Gareth Southgate Image © PA

www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 3 Contents Contents

Foreword 3 Welcome to the Free Lions Guide to Russia 6 Welcome to Russia 8 Getting to Russia 10 Getting around Russia 15 LGBT+ Fans in Russia 21 Safety and Security 24 Health and Health Insurance 28 General Information on Russia 30 Info for Disabled Travellers 36 The Group Stage 39

The group stage — Cities where England WILL play Volgograd Guide 44 Nizhny Novgorod Guide 52 Kaliningrad Guide 61 Moscow Guide 70

The knockout stage — Cities where England MIGHT play Rostov-on-Don Guide 84 Kazan Guide 91

Disclaimer

The Free Lions England fans’ guide within this book, but can accept no to Russia has been produced by responsibility for any loss, injury or the Football Supporters’ Federation inconvenience suffered by anyone (FSF), the national membership-based relying on its contents. Neither the FSF organisation for fans. nor the Foreign and Commonwealth Office can be held in any way We have tried our utmost to ensure the responsible for the contents of, nor the accuracy of the information provided views expressed in, this book.

4 Contents

Saint Petersburg Guide 98 Samara Guide 106

UEFA Rules 113 The Road to Russia 114 Respecting Russia 118 Tom Regan Q&A 120 The FCO in Russia 122

The other cities — The ones where England WON’T play Ekaterinburg Guide 124 Saransk Guide 129 Sochi Guide 133

About the FSF 138 The FSF in Russia 141 Essential Words and Phrases 144 In Case of Emergency 148 Checklist 151 Notes 152 Acknowledgements and Thanks 154

The FSF Website: www.fsf.org.uk

www.facebook.com/thefsf www.facebook.com/FreeLions

www.twitter.com/the_fsf www.twitter.com/FSF_FreeLions

www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 5 Free Lions Guide to Russia 6 provided inthispublication isthe outside sources. The information upon thisguide bookfrom any sponsors, withnoinfluence pushed We are nottiedtoany commercial notablechunkssome ofinformation. offered aswell financialsupport, as TheyCommonwealth Office. have and specificallytheForeign and of HerMajesty’s Government ever indebtedtothesupport For free you We say? are as know. need to webest can,covering you all will and current, asis contemporary followinformation pages to onthe Westandards. have ensured the quality, our adhering usual to high any itcomes to cornerswhen and we cut have not certainly But free meancheap doesnot RussiaGuide to Welcome Free the to Lions tournaments, given theextratimetoprepare. morein alittle depthwhenitcomestomajor for cover ‘normal’matches,we can matters While thefanzine usually onlyrunsto16pages information thatisrelevant toall travelling fans. independent, accurate andreliable providing the traditions oftheFree Lionsfanzine by We hopethatthisguidebook continues in friendlies alike. qualifiersand at tournaments, supporters Offering advice andinformation for travelling ofour ‘Fans’as part service. Embassy’ Federation at each Englandaway match by Footballand distributed the Supporters’ Free Lions Englandfanzineproduced isthe For unfamiliar our those with publication, fans product. result much aby isvery fans, for and visitstothehostcities, result ofour own personalresearch pointers toour loyal readership. us nottohighlight acouple of handy Nonetheless itwould beremiss of them flip over.decide to any broken should computers you scroll down, we areliablefor not version digital the besure you Althoughifyou are readingleft). repeat until thereare nopages (open read words, it, page; turn the sure you have read abookbefore we book, are the pretty far into If book use this How to you have yourself negotiated this Colour-coding As up-to-date as possible

As with previous editions we have During the production of this book opted to colour code the book. we have ensured the utilisation of This is done in the contents as well every possible source and means to as on the corresponding pages produce information that is up to date. throughout the book. But don’t However with fixed deadlines on a panic it is nothing too complex, printed publication, some information with just four colours. was not available to us at the time of print. Such is the way of things. Free Lions Guide to Russia The green pages contain all the lowdown on the cities England Therefore we are in the unfortunate will definitely play in: Volgograd, position whereby in some cases Nizhny Novgorod and Kaliningrad, authorities had been yet to finalise where we will provide the greatest certain arrangements, which is sadly amount of information possible. out of our control. We have highlighted We have also decided to highlight these areas where possible, and if you Moscow due to the high number of are travelling to Russia keep an eye out you who will enter Russia via the for our Fans’ Embassy teams in each capital, and the number of you who city as England progress through the are likely to use it as a base during tournament - we will be printing fanzines the tournament. ahead of each fixture which will be as up to date as it is possible to be. Those in orange are the cities England might play in, subject to qualifying from the group as either Online winners or runners up. These are Saint Petersburg, Rostov-on-Don, Kazan and Samara. Step out of the dark ages and into the light. Our FSF website - www. The observant readers will have fsf.org.uk - is thankfully not bound already figured out that those in to such deadlines, allowing us to red are cities England cannot play keep fans up to speed throughout in. However some of you may have the tournament. Also be sure to received tickets in the ballot for keep tabs on our various digital these cities or simply plan to visit channels. These will be operating them during your time in Russia, so during the tournament, as well cannot be ignored. The three cities as beforehand with relevant are Sochi, Saransk and Ekaterinburg. information that was not available before the book went to print. The fourth and final colour code is blue. This refers to a page that You can find us on Twitter @The_FSF( contains general information, and @FSF_FreeLions) as well as on ranging from specific FSF services Facebook (facebook.com/thefsf to travel advice on Russia in general, and facebook.com/FreeLions). sometimes provided by our partners.

www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 7 Welcome to Russia Welcome to Russia

Welcome to Russia, host of the 2018 Much like four years ago in Brazil World Cup. the issue of logistics given Russia’s geography has been a hot topic of As England supporters your discussion amongst supporters, planning may have begun when with the host cities of Ekaterinburg Harry Kane slid home an injury-time and Kaliningrad situated just shy Wembley winner in October 2017, but of 2,000 miles apart. But a feeling preparations have been underway in of adventure and for some a step earnest since late 2010. into the unknown builds excitement ahead of the tournament. The decision to award the tournament to Russia was taken This will be the first time Russia has by the FIFA Executive Committee hosted the greatest show on earth, and came at the same time Qatar but the former USSR did bid for the were declared as hosts for the tournament in 1990. However as the 2022 competition. The Russian World Cup historians amongst you will declaration of candidacy came recall, that year is fondly remembered in the January of 2009, with a for the success at Italia ’90. This also European host determined stands as the last time England beat following the withdrawal of all a nation ranked 20 or above in a non-European associations in knockout match in normal time. the October of that year. The country is certainly not new to It was Russia who were chosen hosting global sporting events - the ahead of co-host bids from Belgium/ 2014 Winter Olympics and Paralympics Netherlands and Portugal/Spain, and were held in Sochi, with the same city that of England who exited at the having staged a Formula 1 Grand Prix first round of voting with two votes. since the same year. Image © CC- www.cgpgrey.com

8 Mascot overshadowed by intense questioning Whilst much oftheinitialbuild-up was undercontrol. projects issues, Russia have seemto major the like buses logistical and smaller shuttle things the awaiting on finerdetails the compromises. But we while are still numerousits setbacks andconstruction tournament would without becomplete football It seemsnolarge-scale Preparations splashed onofficialmerchandise. across tournament venues, aswell as smile andorange adorned visor Be sure tospothischaracterful on Russia’s Channel1. chosennamebeingrevealedthe live excess Russians ofamillion - voted in scores”, wolf the was namedafter inRussiantranslates onewho as“the Zabivaka, friend.Called which furry Cup would without feel same a the event, aloneaWorld let No sporting 15th July. a month lateratthesame venue on the competition’s conclusion justover in Moscow’s Luzhniki Stadium, before when thehoststake onSaudi Arabia The tournament begins on14thJune constructed withinthelastdecade. significant renovations orhave been the otherhostvenues have all seen Samara, Saransk andVolgograd) whilst Rostov-on-don, Saint Petersburg, (in Kaliningrad, Nizhny Novgorod, been purpose built for thetournament, A totalofseven newstadiums have construction hurdles toovercome. touches’as ‘finishing withnosignificant undergoing whathave beendescribed The othersevenstadiums are currently Confederations Cup. three provincial citiesin2017’s alongwiththeaforementionedused Stadium. stadium The was Spartak the Luzhniki Stadium andSpartak both venues Moscow, inthecapital andSaintSochi Petersburg, aswell as and runninginthecitiesofKazan, five ofthestadiums were fully up In termsofstadia, asofNovember doping programme. role inareported state-sponsored for life from for all his Olympicactivity him hadbanned Olympic Committee justweeks theInternationalcame after resign from hisposition.The decision Vitaly Mutkocommittee was forced to of thetournament’s organising That said,inDecember2017chairman far smootherrecent preparations. president Blatter, Sepp have overseen expulsion ofitsformer anddisgraced the reforming FIFA, following the over theWorld Cup bidding process, www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup

9 Image © CC-Fifa Welcome to Russia Getting to Russia Getting to Russia

Typically speaking the greatest However if your FAN-ID is lost or hurdle to entering Russia is the stolen, you can get a duplicate from procurement of a visa, however one of the Fan ID distribution centres. as with last year’s Confederations You can also replace your Fan ID at Cup FIFA are running their FAN ID one of the distribution centres if it has system. This allows those who are a technical error. registered ticket-holders entry throughout the tournament. Further details if required and to arrange a FAN ID can be found at www.fan-id.ru FAN ID Visas With a FAN ID you’ll be entitled to a multi-entry and exit visa to and from Russia for the period 1 June to 17 If you haven’t bought an official ticket July 2018. In order to access any of in advance of your trip, you’ll need to the stadiums during the FIFA World apply for a visa to enter Russia. Cup, you’ll need to have a valid match ticket, FAN ID, and your passport. Make sure you apply for the correct type of visa, and that it lasts for The FAN-ID can be applied for after the length of your stay. For further receiving ticket confirmation or information on the visa process, see obtaining a ticket for a World Cup the Russian Embassy website (www. match. It is also very important to rusemb.org.uk) and the website of remember that whilst the FAN ID is VFS Global (www.vfsglobal.co.uk) essential for entry it is also required to who manage visa applications on leave Russia, so keep it safe. behalf of the Russian Embassy. Image © CC- Chany CrystalImage © CC- Chany

10 Before you travel to Russia, make If you lose your passport, you’ll sure that you’re aware of the terms need to get an Emergency and conditions attached to your visa. Travel Document from either the Overstaying can result in a delay to British Embassy in Moscow or your departure, fines, a court hearing, the British Consulate General in

or possible deportation. If you need a Saint Petersburg. The fee for an Getting to Russia visa extension, you should ask about Emergency Travel Document is this before your visa expires. £100. You’ll need to apply separately for an exit visa from the Russian Government at an additional cost. Arrival and customs The Embassy can advise you on the process.

When you arrive in Russia you will be If you lose your original passport issued with a migration card at border during the World Cup, this will affect control. One half will be surrendered your ability to use your match ticket on entry, whilst the other half must and Fan ID as your passport details are remain with your passport until exiting interlinked, so be sure to take good Russia. A lost migration card can care of it. result in a fine. It is often printed in English as well as in Russian. By Air

Moreover for those of you who are likely to enter Russia in possession of valuable electronics, antiques, musical instruments, large values of currency and other such items, you are required to declare these on your customs entry card. This card must then be stamped. Even if the customs officer suggests this is not necessary you must insist on your stamp of declaration. British Airways (www. This may seem trivial but this stamp britishairways.com) offer non- could prevent issues upon leaving stop flights between London and Russia, should it be then decided that Moscow and Saint Petersburg. an item in your possession should Aeroflot www.aeroflot.ru( ) also have been declared upon entry. run scheduled flights from both Gatwick and Heathrow to Moscow. As for your Passport, do not forget Easyjet previously offered flights this and ensure it is valid for a to Moscow, but this service was minimum of six months after the cancelled in 2015. expiry of your all important FAN ID or visa. Also be sure to sign your As with Brazil four years ago, flying passport, it has been known for is the most popular method of people to be denied entry into Russia transport to reach Russia. The three due to an unsigned passport. Image © CC-BriYYZ

www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 11 Getting to Russia

Moscow airports of Sheremetyevo, Domodedovo, and Vnukovo as well as the Puklovo International Airport in Saint Petersburg

Getting to Russia operate the majority of Russia’s international flights, and so will form the point of entry for the vast majority of fans from England.

It is worth noting, however, that some other hosts cities also have time consuming given the number direct international connections, of passport and visa checks. albeit not from the UK, so check out routes through contintental Europe. Many trains both in and out of Russia can be booked through the Russian All Moscow airports are now Railways website - eng.rzd.ru. connected to the city thanks to the Aeroexpress trains. These EUROPE depart hourly from Vnukovo, RZhD Russian Railways offer and every half hour from reliable services across eye- Sheremetyevo and Domodedovo, watering distances, although with the fare around R500. with the exception of carriages on the Moscow-Paris-Nice train, As for Saint Petersburg buses the compartment’s quality may run to from 05:30-01:30 Any of resemble that of domestic trains. the 39, 39Ex and minibus K39 can be used, from which the metro at Immediate neighbours Belarus, Moskovskaya metro station is then Moldova and Ukraine offer daily required to reach the city centre. connections, whilst from Finland four high-speed services run Further details of all transport daily to Saint Petersburg with one connections from airports will overnight train running to Moscow. be explained further within the A short connection is available city guides. from Poland to Kaliningrad.

Note - trains departing from Berlin, Prague and Warsaw all travel By Train through Belarus which requires an additional visa. Obtaining one is Given Russia’s numerous land not troublesome, but adds to the borders, 14 countries to be precise, ‘to-do-list’ when planning. A visa and connections to both land- must be applied for in advance at masses of Europe and Asia, train your nearest Belarusian consulate possibilities are endless. They are and can not be arranged at the often straightforward, but can prove border crossing. Image © CC- Gilliland Clay

12 ASIA Journeys can be made from Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan to

Moscow, with scheduled trains a Getting to Russia minimum of two to three times a week. But be warned, the trips are long and can take upto five days.

Other services see Moscow linked with Baku in Azerbaijan, whilst the trans-Siberian railway connects to Beijing. However only those with a CIS passport can pass between Azerbaijan and Russia.

UK infrastructure. Although queues at There are no direct trains these crossing points can be prove from the UK to Russia, with lengthy due to their popularity. any possible indirect journeys taking at least two days and two BORDER CROSSINGS: nights. Many of these also run Belarus - Highway crossings through Belarus, encountering cannot be used by those without the additional visa requirement, possession of a Russian or so you may prefer to travel from Belarusian passport Vilnius to Saint Petersburg. Estonia - Narva is the nearest to Tallinn of three border crossings. Russia has an array of neighbours You can even book a timeslot by so there are plenty of entry visiting www.estonianborder.eu - points, but be sure to fully check but only when leaving the country the visa and entry requirements Finland - Nuijamaa and Vaalimaa before travelling. both mark border points into Russia and often provide swift entry Georgia - No border permit is required and can be accessed By Car from Tbilisi using the Georgian Military Highway Entering Russia from any of Latvia - Checks are renowned to be Estonia, Finland and Latvia is slow but driving the M9 is a direct most practical due to their EU highway from Riga to Moscow membership, reducing hassle. Lithuania - Any of From the above there are many Chernyshevskoye–Kibartay, tourists doing the same, allowing Sovetsk–Panemune, Pogranichny– for relatively painless customs Ramoniškių and Morskoe–Nida can regulations on roads with good be used to pass into Kaliningrad Image © CC-shankar s

www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 13 Getting to Russia

Norway - A complicated border from Gdansk to Kaliningrad, as crossing at Storskog/Borisoglebsk well as from Warsaw, although the on the Kirkenes–Murmansk latter takes nine hours. road. Non-Russian registered

Getting to Russia vehicles are forbidden on the Nikel–Zapolyarnye section of the M18 highway between 11pm and 7am and any time on Tuesday, Thursday or Saturday. This leads to a lengthy diversion via Prirechniy with crumbling roads. Poland - Passing from Bezledy/ Bagrationovsk on the A195 highway involves lengthy queuing when reaching Kaliningrad.

By Bus

By Boat

Another option to reach Russia Eurolines, along with a selection is by boat, as you voyage the of other bus companies, operate surrounding seas. A summer ferry international services. travels to Sochi from Trabzon in Turkey, whilst in the north a boat Belarus - a number of daily buses can be taken from Lappeenranta travel from Minsk to Moscow, but in Finland which is then less than visa implications still apply two hours from Saint Petersburg Finland - there are daily buses by train. aplenty between Helsinki and Saint Petersburg More popular is the daily overnight Latvia - All from Riga; heading connection between Helsinki and to Moscow, Saint Petersburg Saint Petersburg, whilst passenger and Kaliningrad ferries also follow routes from Lithuania - Vilnius to Kaliningrad both Stockholm and Tallinn to Poland - Regular daily buses go Saint Petersburg. Left Image © CC- James Byrum, Right Image © CC- Gia Jose Image © CC- Cha Right Left James Byrum,

14 Getting Around Russia Getting Around Russia

The two World Cup tournaments since Germany 2006 have both involved By Air some considerable travel once we’ve finally reached the host country, Russia is well connected by and while Russia is somewhat less numerous domestic flights and far-flung than either South Africa there are a number of airlines that or Brazil, the internal travel will be operate internal flights between no less onerous. While train travel host cities. These can be found is an option for some, we expect through the websites below and with that as was the case with previous advanced booking lower prices can tournaments that the majority of fans be snapped up. However tickets can will be flying between host cities. be purchased up until departure from ticket offices even if it suggests Of course the decision ultimately lies elsewhere the plane is full, so it is with you, but distances in Russia are always worth double checking at vast to say the least and whilst driving the airport or a travel agent. conditions are generally acceptable a number of regulations and restrictions Aeroflot can complicate matters. www.aeroflot.com/gb-en Rossiya It would take the best part of 24 hours www.rossiya-airlines.com/en to drive from Nizhny Novgorod to s7 Airlines Kaliningrad for England’s final group www.s7.ru game, which is before you account for Ural Airlines traffic and comfort breaks. www.uralairlines.com UTAir While internal flights will be a starting www.utair.ru point for most, fear not, we will explain Pobeda (budget) all the options available and detail the www.pobeda.aero parameters of rail and road travel. Image © CC-BriYYZ

www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 15 Getting Around Russia

Luggage capacity can often be By Train less than 20kg per passenger, so check with your airline before Russian Railways flying, with some now allowing www.rzd.ru no luggage on non-refundable tickets. Whilst as is standard Real Russia procedure liquids of more than http://realrussia.co.uk Getting Around Russia 100ml must be packed in your hold luggage, anything less Russian Trains than 100ml can go in your hand www.russiantrains.com luggage but must be in a clear and sealed plastic bag. Getting around Russia by train is by some viewed as the most Also be sure to check with your convenient form of transport, airline or the airport before you especially with many trains fly as flights can be altered or allowing up to 36kg of luggage cancelled without being well per person, and some up to communicated, and please 50kg. The nation boasts an ensure you have your passport extensive rail network, as well handy for regular checks at as a reliable one. Of course many airports. during the tournament services will be in high demand, so In terms of safety it is booking in advance is advisory, recommended you stick to especially as fares can increase the major airlines, who have in line with demand. scheduled as opposed to charter flights and use the One option is to book from the larger airports where available. RZD website or app, which can Smaller regional airports may be done from upto 60 days be shiny new complexes but before departure. Although some may be under-equipped tickets can still be purchased or in need of renovation. from ticket windows, some major However such infrastructure stations offer a service centre. has been pinpointed as in Staff will help book your tickets need of an upgrade ahead of for a small fee and may speak the tournament, so the overall English. Machines are also picture is better than previously. available at major hubs and can be operated in English, but only It is advised that wherever accept bank cards. possible you print your boarding pass. The guard or immigration Some stations will still be referred officer will typically want to to by their previous name, so stamp this, so an e-ticket on your double-check when making any phone may not suffice and cause booking exactly where you are additional delays/complications. departing from and arriving into. Right Image © CC- Wikimedia Commons Image © CC- Wikimedia Right

16 Most ticket purchases come with a The wider rail network and its trains reservation, but be sure to check will usually run to Moscow time, so and ask for one if not, especially many stations will have a clock to if purchasing a ticket from a non- reflect this. Suburban trains tend to CIS country. Whether booking be the exception to this rule. online or in person you will need your passport. These details must FREE TRAINS match with your ticket or you will Following on from its implementation Getting Around Russia not be allowed to board. at the 2017 Confederations Cup, over 500 ‘free trains’ will be laid on In terms of the trains and journeys for the World Cup. themselves these are simply split into long distance and shorter You must have a ticket to the distances, such as commuter or match and a corresponding FAN suburban services. ID for the city where the game is being held to take advantage. The majority of long-distance trains also incorporate overnight Registration must be done by visiting travel, on which the standard of https://tickets.transport2018.com accommodation is mixed.These inputting personal details and ticket vary from Deluxe (lyuks) with luxury information. A boarding coupon compartments and private bathroom will be sent via email, along with facilities, to Sidyachiy (sitting class) confirmation of the free travel and comprising of seats without any the all important information of bedding. The other classes as you departure times and location. can imagine alter in quality and privacy in line with price, but bunks The service is operating on a are strongly recommended when first come first served basis, travelling overnight. These services with registrations stopping may be recognised as Skorostnoy, 24-hours before the trains Vysokoskorostnoy and Skoryy trains. scheduled departure.

The more local commuter services are less likely to be used, but are referred to as Prigorodnyy, however most cities operate sufficient public transport, such as Moscow’s metro system. But in terms of shorter distances the express suburban trains could prove useful. Fares are typically cheaper, travel-times less and they often connect regional capitals and other cities together.

www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 17 Getting Around Russia

Free Public Transport By Bus

A further option to travellers is to take a bus. Whilst they can prove quicker than some train travel, traffic jams around major cities can put paid to this. However they do offer Getting Around Russia reasonable luggage storage for a small fee and purchasing a ticket regularly ensures a reserved seat.

Long distance buses run by the state usually depart from the bus station, of which there is typically just one in most urban areas. However larger cities where commercial buses operate often depart from separate locations, Free public transport (excluding including near train stations. taxis) will be available in the host cities on matchdays. Private minibuses called a Marshrutky could also be utilised. The exact routes and stipulations Essentially formalised hitch-hiking, of this (such as whether it relates the private minibuses tend to to all Fan-ID holders or only to have fixed routes but flexible match-ticket holders for that day’s timetables and can be flagged game) are yet to be determined by down. Payment is to the driver and the local authorities, and may vary your drop off location arranged, from city to city. Keep an eye on the so a reasonable degree of spoken website and our social media closer Russian is likely to be essential. to the tournament for an update.

During the tournament we would recommend fans use public By Taxi transport to get to the stadium. No private vehicles will be allowed near Taxi prices vary nationwide but in to the stadiums among heightened general represent an expensive security procedures. way to get around, although this has been made more reasonable There will be a limited number of by the use of apps such as Uber public parking spaces close to and Yandex Taxi. They can also be stadiums for match ticket holders in ordered by phone or from hotel exceptional circumstances, e.g. if the receptions, but be aware that ticket holder has told the organising local operators will speak little if authorities in advance of a pre- any English. Hailing a cab down existing mobility issue. Image © CC- Artem Svetlov

18 Getting Around Russia

is possible, but less common alone driving into Russia given the nowadays. Pronouncing your vast distances between venues. destination and price correctly However if you choose to do so, can help get a lower fare, but a or even hire a car during your stay general rule of thumb is to trust this information is essential for you. your instincts throughout. In Russia, like most of continental Europe, they drive on the right hand side of the road and usually give By Boat way to the right, and seatbelts are mandatory and children under 12 It is possible to explore areas of can not sit in the front. Russia by boat, and summer river cruises link the likes of Kazan and Thanks to an improvement in both Volgograd. But as you would expect roads and driving standards driving whilst idyllic it is not an efficient in Russia is not as bad as it once way to get around, a voyage from was. But be warned large numbers Moscow to Saint Petersburg can of vehicles make traffic jams highly take the best part of a week. likely, particularly around the cities of Moscow and Saint Petersburg, and road conditions are not helped by the extreme climate. By Car If you are considering bringing your We do not anticipate many of own car into Russia you will need to you will be driving in Russia, let have all of the below with you. Image © CC-Alexxx Malev

www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 19 Getting Around Russia

• Driving licence • International Driving Permit (IDP) • Vehicle registration papers • Green card - third party Russian valid insurance • Customs declaration promising that you will depart Getting Around Russia with your vehicle • All documents ideally should be translated into Russian, it will save a lot of trouble (This can be done at your Russian Consulate) to be aware of upcoming traffic The same rules also apply to police. those with motorhomes, but be warned camping facilities are of When driving in urban areas a very low standard and largely speeds are usually limited to aimed at lorry drivers. We would 60km/h and go up to between advise sticking to main routes and 80-110km/h on the motorways. But keep your eyes peeled for Motels. be careful as there can often be 90km/h zones when leaving cities. You have to be over 18-years-old to legally drive or rent a car or If you see a traffic light flickering motorcycle, as well as being in whilst on green then it is best to possession of a valid full driving stop. The light is about to change licence and an International to yellow and subsequently red. Driving Permit. A police officer seeing you pass through on yellow will pull you over. Petrol is available in four main grades, with a litre costing As in the UK drink driving is illegal, between R30 to R40, whilst diesel with those driving not allowed to tends to be around R35 per litre. have a blood-alcohol content in It is advisory to fill up when you excess of 0.03%. You will first be have the opportunity, you can tested using a breathalyser, but can often travel for between 50-100km insist on a blood test at a hospital. without any services. The official Russian traffic police, Overtaking on the inside occurs GIBDD, are authorised to stop you regularly in Russia, and indicators and issue on the spot fines. They are used sparingly. Headlights have been known to set up speed are also very rarely utilised, with traps and collect fines upon issue, most road users opting for just despite this being illegal. Some locals sidelights even in the middle of use dashboard cameras, which may the night. If a driver does flash be an option, but in recent times their headlights it typically means corruption is far less common. Image © CC- Shankar S

20 LGBT+ Fans in Russia LGBT+ Fans in Russia Fans LGBT+

Given the current situation in Russia, generally supported by the population Foreign and Commonwealth Advice due to the conservative and Christian (FCO) should always be followed: Orthodox beliefs held by many. https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel- advice/russia. The FCO has also put In 2017 Russia was ranked 48th out together travel advice for LGBT+ of 49 European countries for LGBT+ travellers: bit.ly/fco-lgbt-advice rights and there are no laws that exist to protect LGBT+ people from With any trip abroad it is essential to discrimination on grounds of sexual understand your destination’s cultural orientation and/or gender identity. and ideological beliefs. Whilst often you are able to behave as you would in In April 2017 the Russian newspaper the UK, certain things must be treated Novaya Gazeta reported that men with caution in societies less tolerant accused of being gay were being than back home. rounded up by authorities in Chechnya, subsequently being detained in unofficial There is no reason not to come to the prisons, tortured and even killed. Until World Cup if you are LGBT+. However, such news broke, the crackdown, which although same-sex sexual activity has local groups report started in December been decriminalised in Russia since 1993, 2016, was largely unknown. It is estimated it is strongly understood and advised that that more than 200 people have been you do not publicly display your sexuality, targeted so far, and that the crackdown but this is up to the individual. is not only ongoing, but has extended to other areas of the North Caucasus. The As of 2013 “propaganda for non- areas of Chechnya, Ingushetia, Dagestan, traditional sexual relations” to minors and other Muslim regions within the North is prohibited, including talking about Caucasus should be avoided. homosexuality issues or gay rights, effectively prohibiting any public display It’s important to note that whilst no of LGBT+ rights. Such a law is also World Cup matches will be played in Image © CC-William Murphy Image © CC-William

www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 21 LGBT+ Fans in Russia

any regions of the North Caucasus, it is Recently Russian LGBT+ activists have important to understand nonetheless been detained for flying the Rainbow that Russia is a big country and attitudes flag during a demonstration. will vary from city to city, and in many cases it is no more dangerous than Fans travelling to Russia might parts of the UK. have a different experience to the situation faced by the Russian LBGT+

LGBT+ Fans in Russia Fans LGBT+ There are a handful of bars for the community on a day-to- day basis. LGBT+ community in both Moscow and So whilst we can’t guarantee safety, Saint Petersburg, of which the latter is circumstances could be different viewed as a largely liberal city, although during this time when the world’s in the capital, Moscow Pride was banned media will be focused upon for 100-years in 2012. the country.

Elsewhere the scene tends to be more Going to the toilet is a specific concern underground but www.English.gay.ru for trans people going to Russia for the is a handy resource for putting you in World Cup. We advise that you judge the touch with guides in both Moscow and situation on a case by case basis. If you Saint Petersburg. do not feel safe, try and find a fellow fan to accompany you. If there is a disabled Unfortunately the issue of LGBT+ rights toilet and you are alone, that could be has appeared a topic of taboo to the the safest option. authorities ahead of Russia 2018, unlike before the 2014 Winter Olympics in Russia will want the World Cup to go Sochi, when Russian President Vladimir without a hitch so it is highly probable Putin said that gay people would be there will be additional focus on welcome in Sochi. ensuring that homophobia and other forms of discrimination don’t take place. However a Russian Football Union official and World Cup ambassador has FIFA has suggested to Pride in stated that he believes fans will be able Football that any fans experiencing to fly rainbow flags at the tournament. or hearing homophobia in World Cup venues should approach the FIFA The former Chelsea player and the appointed representative (and there Russian FA’s equality officer, Alexei will always be at least one in each Smertin, advised there would be no stadium) should any appeals against ban on rainbow colours in Russia discrimination be unsuccessfully made and fans would not be victimised for to stewards or police. expressing feelings, although it is widely believed this could depend on Meanwhile FIFA’s disciplinary code individual circumstances. has recently been amended to cover further forms of discrimination This would contradict the including homophobia. Therefore abuse aforementioned ‘propaganda law’ and concerning sexual orientation can now Russian LGBT+ groups have questioned be punishable by expulsion from the how safe LGBT+ fans will be who raise tournament. The three step process the Rainbow flag during matches. instigated during the Confederations

22 Cup for dealing with discriminatory behaviour, including homophobic chants, will also be used during the World Cup, allowing match officials to to halt or even abandon games in incidences of discriminatory behaviour.

Additionally FIFA are introducing an in Russia Fans LGBT+ Anti-Discrimination Monitoring System at all World Cup matches (more details of which can be found here - bit.ly/ lgbt-monitoring), in which three match observers will support stadium security along with the investigations of FIFA’s disciplinary bodies, a programme that is in collaboration the Fare Network.

Moreover the Fare Network, formerly Football Against Racism in Europe, a pressure group that campaigns for equality in football has advised “gay people to be cautious in any place which is not seen to be welcoming to the LGBT+ community.” The group is set to distribute a guide to fans that are LGBT+ groups, as well as making contact travelling to Russia. with LGBT+ fan groups of Russian clubs such as CSKA Moscow. It is also encouraged that fans engage in any kind of solidarity that will also raise It is also advisory to find out who else awareness, with international pressure from your domestic club is travelling to cited as a genuine possibility to make the tournament. a difference. Stonewall encourages fans and campaigners alike to use the Furthermore you could find out of if FSE tournament as an opportunity to shine or Pride House will be there, allowing a spotlight on Chechnya and other you to plug into LGBT+ fans from violations in Russia within the framework other countries; you may also wish to of existing campaigns, such as download Grindr and other social apps. supporting and showing solidarity with the Russia LGBT+ network and others, @kickitout rather than creating our own campaigns. @FvHtweets @genderintell However in any situation please act with @justaballgame confidence, not aggression. @justlikeus_uk @prideinfootball This can be done by plugging into your @stonewalluk community, such as other England @stonewallfc fans who are going or those from other @hackneywfc Image © CC-Gennady Grachev

www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 23 Safety and Security

What we intend to do with this section is give a sense of perspective and reality, explaining things as we have experienced them first hand, along with the details from our contacts in Russia. An example would be that whilst many perceive Russians as Safety and Security either reserved or unexcitable, they are in many cases actually more emotional than ‘Westerners’.

Anyway, as always it is what you do with that information that will ultimately impact your personal safety. Many of you will be seasoned and well travelled fans, but anyone can unfortunately fall victim to crime, big or small. Numerous precautions, often simple things, can Safety and Security and should be taken to ensure you minimise the risk of being a victim, a lot of which simply boil down to common As with any major football tournament sense and trusting your instincts. the issue of safety and security always makes its way into the public The Foreign and Commonwealth Office discourse, and can often result in inform us that work is in hand between sensationalist reports with concerns for UK and Russian police to help ensure large numbers of people abroad. the safety of British supporters. This has included the visit of the UK police to Ahead of Russia much of this was set Russia in March 2017 and Russian police to stem from the trouble in Marseille to the UK in June 2017, and continues in during Euro 2016, when a number of the run up to the tournament. violent clashes occurred after Russian fans targeted England supporters in That being said, we advise you take the French city. some time to read the following pages of advice and information to help stay Since then, however, recent events have safe in Russia this summer. led to heightened tensions between the UK and Russia at a political level. While the British Embassy in Moscow is not General personal safety aware of any increased difficulties for British people travelling in Russia at this time, you should follow the security and For some this will be your first major political situation closely and keep up to tournament, for others it will be another date with this travel advice, which may in a long list, but whether seasoned change in the run-up to the tournament, veteran or first timer, it’s often at the and remain vigilant to the possibility of point of arrival in a new country that anti-English or anti-British sentiment. Image © CC- shbs, Pixabay you can be at your most vulnerable. A

24 relaxed and excited outlook can leave In the worst case scenario do not you open to opportunists, so stay sharp. panic and do not resist. Losing a few possessions is far less important than Do not leave your luggage unattended the safety of you and those you are with. and remain eagle eyed to any of your However as soon as you can and it is of belongings. If you take a taxi onwards course safe to do so make sure the crime from your point of arrival, make sure it is reported, ensuring you are issued with Safety and Security is picked up from official ranks or even a report and reference of the crime. This pre-booked through a reputable travel will be required by any insurer as proof agent. Ensure you have your luggage should you wish to claim for any losses before paying the driver their fare, against your travel insurance. another reason to use official taxis.

Once arrived and checked in at your Identification hotel or accomodation be sure to speak to the staff on hand. They can advise you on the best and safest places to go, as well as those to steer clear of. Of course if heading straight out be sure to think carefully about your belongings. Only take with you what you will need. Large amounts of cash, travel documents, jewellery and expensive electrical equipment should stay in your room, ideally in a safe if available. If not, ensure such items and documents are stored in your suitcase, which is secured by a padlock.

Of course in some cases some items from the above may have to be with you. So especially with anything It is not compulsory to carry electronic such as a mobile phone identification papers with you or camera, it’s best to not have them in Russia, but as a tourist it is constantly on display. Therefore it highly advised that you do so. This is advisable to keep these in a bag, immediately helps to avoid any ideally one across your body, rather misunderstanding and is useful than over your shoulder. This is easier should there be an emergency to keep close to your body when in situation. Not having your documents busy public areas. to hand means you can be detained for up to three hours whilst your Likewise with match tickets and travel identity is established. documents, on the occasion you are out and about with these, carry A police officer may salute you and them on your person. An inside jacket request your passport. Keep yourself pocket is best, as opposed to zipped alert to words such as ‘paspart’, ‘veeza’ pockets of bags. or ‘dakumenty’, Image © CC-Chris Fleming

www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 25 Safety and Security

It has been known for tourists to be Terrorism specific targets in Saint Petersburg, with crimes carried out by organised The official advice from the gangs, or even for bogus police government on the issue of terrorism officers looking to harass and rob within Russia is as follows: tourists. So always insist on seeing identification if stopped. But overall Safety and Security “Terrorists are very likely to try to incidences of major violence are carry out attacks in Russia. These linked with larger criminal activity, not have mainly been by Islamist and directed at foreign tourists. rebel groups in the North Caucasus, but attacks aren’t limited to this The spiking of drinks does happen and region. Some previous attacks have can consequently result in robbery and seen large numbers of casualties.” violent abuse. Be sure to buy your own drinks and keep sight of them at all times. “Although there’s no indication that British nationals or interests have DRUGS been specific targets, attacks could The possession of drugs is illegal and be indiscriminate, including in places the penalties severe. Heavy fines and visited by foreigners. You should be jail sentences are the typical outcomes vigilant in all public places, including for those found in possession. major transport hubs, tourist sites and crowded areas – particularly RACE where access isn’t controlled (eg The majority of visitors experience no open-air events and markets). issues, although unfortunately racially Previous attacks have targeted motivated attacks do occur. People of transport infrastructure.” Asian or Afro-Caribbean descent may sadly attract unwanted attention when “There’s a heightened threat of in public, particularly late at night. terrorist attack globally against UK interests and British nationals, from As always it is advisable to stay in groups groups or individuals motivated by the and not travel or explore areas alone. conflict in Iraq and Syria. You should be vigilant at this time.” SCAMS If you happen to spot a wallet, credit card, money or mobile phone on the Crime floor and locals are passing it by, it is best to follow suit. Picking it up can result in the owner suddenly appearing As with any foreign trip, most trips and accusing you of stealing said item. to Russia are trouble free but petty They will proceed to demand money to crime does inevitably occur. So be prevent them from calling the police. alert to possible pick pocketing and theft, as well as small scale DANGEROUS REGIONS mugging. Also be wary of those The North Caucasus remains an begging, usually groups of women unstable and potentially dangerous or children. region. Travelling to this area is strongly

26 SEXUAL ASSAULT If you are a victim of sexual assault you are firstly advised to contact a doctor. Tests will be conducted to determine if you have contracted any STDs, whilst if you are female you could be given emergency Safety and Security contraception. It would then be recommended to contact the British Embassy, where a member of the consular staff will do all they can to help you.

Emergency Numbers against FCO advice. The ability of the FCO and the British Embassy in Moscow to help in the case of an emergency In an emergency here would be severely limited due to Call 112 for emergency services. the security situation. In some more 01 Fire remote areas of Russia, specific natural 02 Police hazards include bears, so stay vigilant. 03 Ambulance

BORDER ZONES For consular assistance, contact With the exception of the official border the Embassy in Moscow or the crossings Russia’s borders tend to be off Consulate in St Petersburg. limits. Trekking in some border regions is allowed but a permit is needed. Being British Embassy Moscow caught close to borders without one Smolenskaya Naberezhnaya 10 could lead to a hefty fine and in some 121099 Moscow cases even deportation. Telephone number TRANSPORT AND ROAD SAFETY + 7 495 956 7200 (also for out of Take extra care when crossing roads hours emergencies) in large cities. It is known for drivers to ignore traffic lights or move as Office hours: Monday to Friday soon as they display green, without 9am to 5pm acknowledgement of those still crossing. Many drivers will stop at a zebra crossing British Consulate General in St but this is not done by all, so be careful. Petersburg Ul. Lafonskaya, 5 If you happen to be pulled over by the St Petersburg 191124 Traffic Police there is no need to worry. They will just want to check your papers, Telephone number so do not panic and run away. If you do +7 812 3203200 (also for out of this they will pursue you and shoot at hours emergencies). your vehicle, even if you are unarmed.

www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 27 Health and Health Insurance

routine vaccinations and boosters, as recommended in the UK. Those included would be the measles-mumps- rubella vaccine and diphtheria-tetanus- polio vaccine.

Other travellers may wish to have a Hepatitis A and Tetanus vaccine as well, with full details available at www. travelhealthpro.org.uk

Health and Insurance We would suggest having a dental check-up before your departure, especially if you are planning on staying for the whole tournament. It could avoid the possibility of an eye-watering bill from abroad. Also if The chaotic mix of pre-match drinks, you wear glasses it would be worth stadium hot dogs and moments that bringing a copy of your prescription often leave you at your wits end when or a spare pair of glasses, just in case following England does not necessarily you lose or break your specs. bode for the healthiest of lifestyles. But even if you are far more cautious Also make sure you know your blood sometimes accidents happen. Often group and keep a note of it, ideally with they are just that, accidents, but your other health documents. in such a situation some simple preparations make things much easier. It is generally just precautionary but What to take with you nonetheless very important.

When packing your toiletries we would Before you travel always recommend taking a few basic medicines for use during your stay. We are only talking diarrhoea tablets, pain It is wise to take some basic killers and plasters, nothing major, but precautionary steps before travelling. if you need them you will be mighty Should you fall ill or encounter any pleased you have them to hand. Even health problems big or small, you will better, they only take up a little room be grateful for thinking of these. in your bag!

It is advised you visit your health If you are driving in Russia you must professional at least six weeks before have a first aid kit in the vehicle, so you depart and that you are aware some of these items may be available of any medical conditions, be up to to you there. date on prescription medications, etc. All of those travelling are urged to Of course any GP prescribed medicines ensure they are up to date with the would also be wise to bring with you. Image © CC- Marcin WicharyImage © CC- Marcin

28 Health Insurance Card) will not grant Insurance you any access to free healthcare when at the World Cup. But if you are travelling through any countries within It is absolutely crucial that you double the EU to or from Russia, be sure to check your health insurance before have it with you. travelling. It will need to cover you for any eventuality that could occur throughout the tournament. If you are Specific medication yet to take out a policy we strongly urge you to do so immediately. As of June 2016 foreign citizens Health and Insurance Foreign Office advice is to ensure visiting Russia are allowed to bring such insurance is comprehensive. medication for personal use. But they The reciprocal healthcare agreement must not contain any narcotic or between Russia and the UK was psychoactive substances. terminated from 1st January 2016. There is also a list of these drugs If you already hold a travel insurance permitted on the Rossiyskaya Gazeta policy please check it is up to date website (in Russian) - http://bit.ly/ and valid for the duration of your trip russian-medicines and all countries that you may be visiting. Those with pre-existing medical However if you wish to bring conditions must ensure their insurer medication with you and it does is aware, or are made aware of these contain such substances, you will before a policy is taken out. This could need to provide a prescription in your stop a hefty bill for treatment, which we name. This must also be translated cannot imagine you would want. into Russian, as well as notarised. Notarisation services are available Also if you are planning on engaging from Notary Public in the UK. in any activities, make sure your policy accounts for and covers these. If you remain unsure whether you need The likes of bungee jumping and to provide the prescription and notarised watersports are often excluded from translation, you need to check with the policies. Injuries incurred during these Russian Embassy and Consulate, in may not be covered. London and Edinburgh respectively.

If you do happen to require any form of medical treatment and have to pay Air quality for some or all of the costs, make sure you keep any documentation and receipts regarding this. This will Air quality can vary, and in Moscow enable you to make a claim on your particular weather conditions can policy upon your return. worsen this. It is recommended you monitor the local media for Please note due to Russia being further information if you have outside of the EU your EHIC (European respiratory problems.

www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 29 General Information on Russia General Information on Russia

Northern Asia. A total area 17,098,200 Demographic sq km to be precise, which is one- eighth of the globe’s land mass and almost twice as much as the next Russia’s population is an estimated biggest country, Canada. 144.3 million people, meaning it is the ninth most populated country Encompassing a huge range of habitats on earth. Approximately 81% of and landscapes, from deserts and forests, its inhabitants identify as ethnic it is home to Europe’s longest river, the Russians. Other ethnic groups (of Volga, and the world’s deepest lake, Baikal. which there more than 100) include Tartars 3.9% and Ukrainians 1.4%. Economy 74% of Russians live in urban areas, with 12 cities having a population in excess of one million people. The economy of Russia is heavily influenced and reliant on oil and other natural resources, including Geography gas and minerals.

The reserves of black gold have Russia is the world’s largest country fuelled the country’s economic growth since the fall of the Soviet Image © CC- goodfreephotos.com by area, spanning across Europe and

30 five oncethetournament hasfinished. group stagematches,andpotentially all different federal districts during their This all meansEngland will visitthree Nizhny Novgorod, Samara, Saransk). Urals (Ekaterinburg) andVolga (Kazan, South (Rostov-on-Don, Volgograd), Sochi, (Kaliningrad, Saint Petersburg), Russia Russia (Moscow),West North Russia host citiesfor thetournament. Central 11 The otherfive districts houseall RussianCaucasus, Far EastandSiberia. any World Cup matches,theNorth Three districts ofthese will nothost several regions. each including with ofthese districts, Russia eight federal issplitinto ofRussia Districts The recent leadership ofVladimir Putin. Union underthe (USSR), particularly with themildest conditons experienced andCentralNorthern European Russia, The mostvaried climate comesin anddry. hot, described aswarm to summer monthsconditions are But during the thankfully snowfall. windsandheavy by easterly strong -30°C,drop widelyto accompanied havetemperatures beenknown to coldand isvery In generalwinter location timeofyour andthe visit. variesclimate dependinguponyour Russia’s vast size, advice regarding Of course you when account for Climate more than200mmonaverage ayear. havingno typically being thedryest, southern andsoutheastern regions experience themostrain, withthe In termsofprecipitation western areas dropping aslow as-50°C. March years, insome withtemperatures cover theground from Octoberuntil cold winters isfar greater. Snow can ofvery not unexpected,but theseverity comes inSiberia.Warm summers are The country’s mostextreme climate Mediterranean influence. climatic conditionstoa owes partly dry, although winters cold.The typically conditions.these Summers are hot and tothemildestof the Blackused Sea tend tobeshorter, withareas around In SouthernEuropean Russia thewinters unpredictable.somewhat with theSpringandAutumnperiods fallSnow can asearlyOctober, andevening periods. in theafternoon showers andthunderstorms dooccur day, but whilstgenerally dry, localised brings sunshine ofup toninehours a Summer usuallyalong theBaltic Coast. learning afew phrases tohelp you itmaybeworth Cyrillic alphabet,so the Slavicfamily. It isprinted inthe of part and Belarusian,asitisalso It related isclosely tothatofUkrainian population. ofthe minority small groups, ethnic represents this a other indigenous languages spoken by Although there are numerous nativesof which are proud. very Russian officiallanguage, isthe Language www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 31 31 General Information on Russia General Information on Russia

Rostov-on-Don, Saransk and Sochi go by Moscow Standard Time (MSK, UTC+3), Samara operates on Samara Time (SAMT, UTC+4) and Ekaterinburg on Ekaterinburg Time (YEKT, UTC+5).

Religion

Russia is a secular state, however many hold their faith in high importance. General Information on Russia Around 75% of the population belong to the Orthodox Christian denomination, whilst 5% are Muslims. Judaism, Buddhism, Catholicism and Protestantism are each practiced by navigate the likes of menus and road around 1% of Russians. signs. This may sound a tall order but the language includes borrowed words from both English and German, Police and some linguists cite it as easier to learn than French. In Russia the Politsiya are the federal However do be aware that there can be law enforcement agency. They were visual differences between written and established back in 2011, where they printed Russian, so if you really want to took over from the former police crack the language this may be worth service and operate under the investigating further. ministry of internal affairs.

Although do not fear, many people in They can legally stop anyone to check the larger cities can communicate in their documents and as a tourist this English. But outside of these areas becomes more likely. Also if you carry a communication can prove more bag on the metro do not be surprised challenging, the aid of a phrase book to have it passed through an x-ray and clear gestures can be very helpful. security machine.

Time Food and Drink

Russia has a whole 11 time zones, Given its expansive geography and although the World Cup in 2018 mix of character, Russian cuisine has only encompasses four of these. a multicultural feel, and the myth Kaliningrad has Eastern European of food being poor is generally an Time (EET, UTC+2), Kazan, Moscow, outdated one. Eating out ranges from

Image © CC- Wikimedia CommonsImage © CC- Wikimedia Nizhny Novgorod, Saint Petersburg, the finest of dining to basic meals,

32 or save thepleasantries for after. theexact eitherpay amount change. So beinferredcan thatyou donotwant the waitress withyour cash whenparting that sayingthankyou tothewaiter or and Saint Petersburg. beaware Also be addedtobills, inMoscow typically an eye outcharge for thatcan aservice inarestaurant.good service keep Also A tipof10%would bethenormalrate for readily available. drinks, water butis ofcourse bottled water inRussia andavoid havingicein It isgenerally tonotdrinktap advised all hostcities. spots andwesternisedoutlets for you in you will besure tofind various fast food However ifnothingwhetsyour appetite on acity-by-city guides. inthecity basis cuisineswillDetails oflocal beoutlined meals basedaround meat. be scarce insomeplaces many with may that vegetarianoptions noting Howeverfor budgets. all it’s worth cater so thereshould bechoicesto and often ascam. and often usually atdisadvantageous rates, the street -street exchanges are andexchange money onDo nottry your notesare inagoodcondition. be instantaneous. It helps also if although such transactions maynot facilities are available inmostcities, through. But bureau dechange sure you have enoughtoget cash currency otherthanrubles, make so inanyIt andpay isillegal totry ruble denominations. coins in1,5, 10kopeks 5and10 and 1,2, 100, 500, 1000, and5000rubles, with Notes are issued invalues of5, 10, 50, ruble. nearest rounded the to since 1998,although many pricesare current form hasbeeninexistence 100kopeksdivides into andinits Russia’s currency ruble, isthe which Money likely delay your departure. stamp for this,failing toobtainthiswill items upon arrival besure togeta Furthermore should you declare any you mayberefusedifitisnot. entry ID, whilstmakingsure itissignedas ofyour FAN theexpiry six months after Ensure isvalid your for passport atleast could befinedif you loseit. leave to needthis will Russia andyou You your with this retain passport. are issued at with border control and Keep holdofyour migration card you Documents www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 33 33 Image © CC-strecosa General Information on Russia General Information on Russia

that in general carrying enough cash for your day’s plans is wise.

It is also well worth letting your credit/ debit card provider know that you’re travelling to Russia and the dates of your visit to avoid your card being blocked for anti-fraud reasons.

Post offices Currency exchanges can also be General Information on Russia made in bank branches, such as SBERBANK. These along with other Details of the various post offices bureau de change will typically be and their opening hours can be found open Monday-Saturday. by entering the name of the city (in English) at www.pochta.ru/offices ATMs - referred to as bankomats, are typical in large and small cities, as well as many towns. Most machines Electricity can be opted into an English interface, but some may not accept foreign cards. Russia uses the classic European 2-pin plug sockets, therefore your The Central Bank of Russia advise adaptor used throughout qualifying to use ATMs installed in secure will be perfect. locations, such as government offices, bank offices, large shopping malls, Although it is worth double-checking hotels, airports, and similar sites that it supports 220 volt electricity. monitored by security services to If you still need to get an adaptor avoid ATM skimming. these can be picked up readily from electrical stores or even last minute at Visa and MasterCard - both credit the airport. They often come in packs and debit cards are the standard of two, handy for when you leave one alternative to cash, with even small at a hotel on the other side of Russia. urban areas accepting them. However if using anything else, such as American Express or other cards, you Telephones will be taking a chance.

Travellers cheques are not a popular All your typical mobile phones work choice and are rarely accepted in Russia. well in Moscow and Saint Petersburg, but signal can be intermittent Train stations typically take cards and outside of the larger urban areas. not just those in the big cities, but International roaming is available museums are often the opposite in across most cities, but proves costly terms of policy. So we would advise Bottom Image © CC-Freemage4life being outside of the EU.

34 • • • • • • • • • • • • • • IMPORTANT DIALINGCODES police. andthelocal British Embassy useful numbers inyour such asthe it, your phonewill work abroad, andstore mobile phoneprovider tomake sure if It’s checkingwithyour worth also UK cities toavoid roaming charges. purchase anewsim-card ifyou move a differentso you will network, needto operatesunderstand thateachcity on Howeveruse. to itisimportant is addedtothecard for immediate costing R150, ofwhichthesame value The ediny planisperhapsthebest, outside majorcities. per minute, but thisrate double can calls abroad tendtocostaround R7 in termsofsafety, whilstoutbound incoming calls, whichisapositive simdoesnotchargeA local for standard procedure. Do not worry,a passport. thisis be asked toregister which requires calls, thisishasslefree but you will card ifyou wishtomake overseas The cheapestoptionistobuy asim 863 -Rostov-on-Don 8342 -Saransk 846 -Samara 4012 -Kaliningrad 8622 -Sochi 843 -Kazan 343 -Ekaterinburg 8442 -Volgograd 831 -tocall Nizhny Novgorod 812 -tocall Saint Petersburg 495 -tocall Moscow code whencalling toRussia 7 -international telephonecountry from Russia 810 - international dialing code number outside your area code 8 -longdistance prefix to dial a always double check! to make sure thatthishasbeen done-so accommodation, but it’s your responsibility registration isusually done by your you visitwithin24 hours ofarrival. The You must register hostcity inevery making any bookingordeposit. sure tofully checkall thedetailsbefore Airbnb, but aswithany oftheabove be hotels. Anotheroptionistoexplore globallyseen aswell asRussian styled house many hotelchainsyou will have up toyou, but even thesmaller cities Of course where tostayis tochoose that you bookinadvance. so asever itishighlyrecommended rooms required, onhotel short can fall demand. Evenmatch majorcities the quantityto but the necessarily not anabundancewith ofdifferent options Accommodation inRussia leaves you Accommodation not provide comprehensive online access. this isnotalways free ofcharge andmay train have stationsalso wifiavailable, but public larger computer. Some andnewer whilst mosthotelsare likely tohave a theweb by surf visitinganinternet cafe, Without awifienableddevice can still you online. get be required to andapasswordpersonal details may someminor seems commonpractice free,Access isgenerally but as nowwith wifisimilarly rolled out. hassweptinternet across Russia, milleniumthe Since turnofthe the Internet www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 35 35 General Information on Russia Info for Disabled Travellers Info for Disabled Travellers

To quickly summarise the issues As for the host cities, many issues of disabled travellers may encounter accessibility are yet to be finalised, but when visiting Russia, it would be an keep an eye out on our website which idea to look at how disabled Russians will be loaded with further information live. Issues of being accepted within as and when we get it. society prove a major problem, with some even considering it as British Travellers may wish to visit unthinkable to be disabled. While www.holidaycare.org.uk which changes in the country’s human includes a whole host of travel rights law were made in the first information for those with disabilities. decade of the millennium, its application is less obvious. Even Liberty is also a recognised tour locations that claim to be accessible company that provides packages for all may still have steps up to for disabled travellers in Russia, ticket booths, for instance. ranging from city tours to cruises accessiblerussia.com Despite this, in recent years strides have been made with regards to disability, particularly during the Stadiums organisation and implementation of the Winter Paralympics in Sochi, 2014. Much of this was funded by the state It is expected that all of the World which should be seen as a good omen Cup venues will fall in line with FIFA ahead of this summer’s tournament. Image © CC- Jazz Garme specifications. So they should all

36 supporters getting tothevenuesupporters early getting across venues, however we all advise of theabove should bereplicated Examplesand theircompanions. accommodate four wheelchairusers within Moscow’s Stadium can Spartak It hasbeenclaimedthattheelevators • • • of Russia 2018: document outlining thesustainability The following isspecified by FIFA ina surroundingsimmediate game. ofthe on amatchday, inthe at least should experience minimaldifficulties be entirely accessible, meaningyou assistance toall spectators provide adequate information and Cup McDonald‘s Sponsor to stadium volunteers by FIFA World disability awareness training of descriptive commentary) livelending services, audio- (e.g.services ticketing, wheelchair entrances, routes, toilets) seating, areas, resting areas, special infrastructure solutions (e.g. parking special-access-tickets. befoundcan by visitinghttp://bit.ly/ Further information oneachcategory the match. to assistthembefore, during andafter complimentary ticket for acompanion (except people) obese will beoffered a All SpecialAccessTicket holders • • • • they four are arrangedinto categories: Referred asSpecial AccessTickets, to mobility. limited or forwith those bepurchasedto by people disabled provides a specific allocation of tickets For every ineach venue match FIFA Match ticketsMatch miss any oftheaction. is asure-fire way toensure you donot Obese PersonObese Easy AccessAmenity Easy AccessStandard Wheelchair User www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 37 37 Image © CC- Wikimedia Commons Info for Disabled Travellers Info for Disabled Travellers

little or no disabled access, with often only the expensive ones providing this. ATMs and other similar services may also prove hard to access, whilst many pedestrianised areas can be very difficult to negotiate for wheelchair users. The blind and partially sighted will also experience issues due to a lack of tactile markers on pavements. Info for Disabled Travellers

Tourist venues

Public transport Even a visit to the Kremlin is not easy when you take into account the Unfortunately, good disabled shoddy surfaces around Red Square. access to public transport is likely However in recent years access has to prove few and far between. The improved, albeit still sporadically. likes of stairs and toilets are not The Hermitage museum in Saint adapted to wheelchair users. Only Petersburg is now accessible thanks a quarter of buses in Moscow offer to a correctly adapted lift, whilst a reduced mobility access, whilst growing number of attractions have both Saint Petersburg and the access ramps and parking spaces capital’s underground systems are designated for the disabled. inaccessible if you are in a wheelchair. The blind and partially sighted will also experience difficulties finding Medication tactile markers within and on public transport systems. If you require specific medication you However many venues may lay on will need to provide a prescription shuttle buses for access to the in your name. This must also be stadium. It would be expected as in translated into Russian, as well as line with previous major tournaments notarised. Notarisation services are that these offer disabled access, but available from Notary Public in the UK. this information will all be confirmed once received. If you remain unsure whether you need to provide the prescription and notarised translation, you need to check with the Public venues Russian Embassy and Consulate, in London and Edinburgh respectively.

Places you would typically have Please see page 28 for further no difficulty accessing may prove information on health and health insurance. Image © CC-Kurtis Garbutt problematic. Many restaurants have

38 The Group Stage

Group A Fixtures Group A Table

Match Date Venue K/O Teams W D L GD PTS Russia v Saudi Arabia 14/06 Moscow 16:00 Russia Egypt v Uruguay 15/06 Ekaterinburg 13:00 Russia v Egypt 19/06 Saint Petersburg 19:00 Saudi Arabia Uruguay v Saudi Arabia 20/06 Rostov-on-Don 16:00 Egypt Saudi Arabia v Egypt 25/06 Volgograd 15:00 Uruguay v Russia 25/06 Samara 15:00 Uruguay

Vs. Vs. Vs.

Vs. Vs. Vs.

Group B Fixtures Group B Table

Match Date Venue K/O Teams W D L GD PTS Morocco v Iran 15/06 Saint Petersburg 16:00 Portugal Portugal v Spain 15/06 Sochi 19:00 Portugal v Morocco 20/06 Moscow 13:00 Spain Iran v Spain 20/06 Kazan 19:00 Morocco Iran v Portugal 25/06 Saransk 19:00 Spain v Morocco 25/06 Kaliningrad 19:00 Iran

Vs. Vs. Vs.

Vs. Vs. Vs. Image © CC- Wikimedia CommonsImage © CC- Wikimedia

www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 39 Group C Fixtures Group C Table

Match Date Venue K/O Teams W D L GD PTS France v Australia 16/06 Kazan 11:00 France Peru v Denmark 16/06 Saransk 17:00 Denmark v Australia 21/06 Samara 13:00 Australia France v Peru 21/06 Ekaterinburg 16:00 Peru Australia v Peru 25/06 Sochi 15:00 Denmark v France 26/06 Moscow 15:00 Denmark

Vs. Vs. Vs.

Vs. Vs. Vs.

Group D Fixtures Group D Table

Match Date Venue K/O Teams W D L GD PTS Argentina v Iceland 16/06 Moscow 14:00 Argentina Croatia v Nigeria 16/06 Kaliningrad 20:00 Argentina v Croatia 21/06 Nizhny Novgorod 19:00 Iceland Nigeria v Iceland 22/06 Volgograd 16:00 Croatia Iceland v Croatia 26/06 Rostov-on-Don 19:00 Nigeria v Argentina 26/06 Saint Petersburg 19:00 Nigeria

Vs. Vs. Vs.

Vs. Vs. Vs.

Group E Fixtures Group E Table

Match Date Venue K/O Argentina W D L GD PTS Costa Rica v Serbia 17/06 Samara 13:00 Brazil Brazil v Switzerland 17/06 Rostov-on-Don 19:00 Brazil v Costa Rica 22/06 Saint Petersburg 13:00 Switzerland Serbia v Switzerland 22/06 Kaliningrad 19:00 Costa Rica Serbia v Brazil 27/06 Moscow 19:00 Switzerland v Costa R. 27/06 Nizhny Novgorod 19:00 Serbia

Vs. Vs. Vs.

Vs. Vs. Vs.

40 Group F Fixtures Group F Table

Match Date Venue K/O Teams W D L GD PTS Germany v Mexico 17/06 Moscow 16:00 Germany Sweden v South Korea 18/06 Nizhny Novgorod 13:00 South Korea v Mexico 23/06 Rostov-on-Don 16:00 Mexico Germany v Sweden 23/06 Sochi 19:00 Sweden S. Korea v Germany 27/06 Kazan 15:00 Mexico v Sweden 27/06 Ekaterinburg 15:00 South Korea

Vs. Vs. Vs.

Vs. Vs. Vs.

Group G Fixtures Group G Table

Match Date Venue K/O Teams W D L GD PTS Belgium v Panama 18/06 Sochi 16:00 Belgium Tunisia v England 18/06 Volgograd 19:00 Belgium v Tunisia 23/06 Moscow 13:00 Panama England v Panama 24/06 Nizhny Novgorod 13:00 Tunisia England v Belgium 28/06 Kaliningrad 19:00 Panama v Tunisia 28/06 Saransk 19:00 England

Vs. Vs. Vs.

Vs. Vs. Vs.

Group H Fixtures Group H Table

Match Date Venue K/O Teams W D L GD PTS Colombia v Japan 19/06 Saransk 13:00 Poland Poland v Senegal 19/06 Moscow 16:00 Japan v Senegal 24/06 Ekaterinburg 16:00 Senegal Poland v Colombia 24/06 Kazan 19:00 Colombia Japan v Poland 28/06 Volgograd 15:00 Senegal v Colombia 28/06 Samara 15:00 Japan

Vs. Vs. Vs.

Vs. Vs. Vs.

www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 41

42 42

Semi Finals Quarter Finals Round of 16 30.06.18 Kazan Match For Third Place 06.07.18 Nizhny Novgorod 30.06.18 Sochi 10.07.18 Saint Petersburg 02.07.18 Samara 06.07.18 Kazan 2018 World Cup Final 02.07.18 Rostov-on-Don

Semi Finals Quarter Finals Round of 16 14.07.18 Saint Petersburg 15.07.18 Moscow 11.07.18 Moscow Semi Finals Semi Finals

07.07.18 Sochi 07.07.18 Samara Quarter Finals Quarter Finals

01.07.18 Moscow 01.07.18 Nizhny Novgorod 03.07.18 Saint Petersburg 03.07.18 Moscow Round of 16 Round Round of 16 Round 43 43 44 Volgograd Guide Image © CC Alexxx Malev eight separate districts of which the the ofwhich districts eight separate spanning 860sqkmitisdivided into rivers converge. Although officially DonandVolga where the is situated 1000km south ofMoscow, Volgograd in 1589, asTsaritsyn. then Located cities,foundedcountry’s oldest back Stalingrad, Volgograd isoneofthe manyto by previous its name of that islikelyA city more familiar Volgograd Guide Group Stage(localtime) Fixtures Average June 21°C temperature: Time zone:BST +2hours Population: 1,000,000 SouthRussia District: (Group G) Tunisia vs England Match (Group D) Nigeria vs Iceland (Group H) vsJapan Poland (Group A) Saudi Arabia vs Egypt 28/06 22/06 25/06 18/06 Date Date 18:00 21:00 17:00 17:00 K/O began hercareer inVolgograd. world record holderYelena Isynbayeva time olympicchampionpole-vaulter and while away from thebeautiful gametwo- football teamwas founded here in1909, heritage.A arichsporting boasts The city including trips. hiking,fishingandboat more rural activitiesare accessible also to theiriconicandimposingnature. But literallybe missed, due cases insome monuments andmuseums whichcannot isrenownedThe city for itsabundance of starring Jude LawandRachel Weisz. featured inthe filmEnemy attheGates, of you mayhave Volgograd’s seen story and high standard architecture. Some completed, explainingitsStalinesque the firstseeits citiesto reconstruction following andwas oneof thebattle hadtobecompletelyrebuiltThe city revolves around itsrole inthewar. the war. Muchofthecity’s tourism of bloodiest andmosticonicbattles ofStalingradthe Battle -oneofthe War IIwas shaped,itplayed hostto whereCited by asthecity World some stadium. football Central houses cultural life its and Getting There every 15 minutes and take 30-35 minutes depending on the volume of traffic.

By Air The 133 bus is an another option Volgograd Guide but is more served to reaching 20km north-west of downtown suburban communities, although Volgograd in the Dzerzhinsky will take you to the bus and District lies Volgograd’s international railway stations which are next airport, which links to the city via door to each other. the Shosse Aviatorov highway. This runs daily connections with both Bus fares can be paid in cash Moscow and Saint Petersburg, to the driver or conductor, or by mostly operated by Aeroflot and using a city travel card. S7. Although flights from Saint Petersburg can be indirect and Gumrak train station is currently less frequent. Connections are also the closest to the airport and frequent from Samara but again takes 20 minutes on a bus to tend to involve a stop. reach, although it is reported this www.aeroflot.ru will be extended to the airport in www.travelwith.s7.ru time for the World Cup, with an supposed opening on May 8th. Direct flights from outside of Russia are limited and tend to be from Istanbul and Thessaloniki. By Train Once landed there are three options to continue into central Located centrally in the city the Volgograd. The most expensive train station is well served for is to take a taxi which will cost long-distance connections, three of around 300-400 rubles when which are fellow World Cup venues. using a taxi app, but most travellers tend to take the bus. A train to the capital leaves most days, with a duration of 19 hours For typically less than a tenth it costs around R2000, whilst for of the cost, use either the 6 or Saint Petersburg the journey time 6k bus service into the city, but can typically be doubled. This note that the 6k only goes as far service however does run daily, Kosmonavtov in the Dzerzhinsky usually priced at R3000. Rostov- District. The 6 will take you on-Don is 12-13 hours travelling through to Komsomolskaya where time away and will generally set the railway and high-speed tram you back just over R1000. stations are situated, so be sure to check which is best for reaching Occasionally trains will operate your location. Buses leave at least directly from European locations

www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 45 46 Volgograd Guide Image © CC limkin similar to that of the Emirates Stadium. Emirates thatofthe similar to upper tierfollowsthe awaved design underway,seat installation of which inDecember 2017,installed the with saw pitch stadium its writing, the at timeof the completed befully to Volgograd Yet CentralDistrict. inits of atheart the sits stadium the Built banks onthe Volga ofthe River, Volgograd Arena -capacity 45,000 StadiumThe Volgograd Guide free-train free-train www.tickets.transport2018.com/ but must bereserved by visiting England matchagainstTunisia, Paveletskaya before the andafter Moscow Passazhirskayabetween Free trains will berunning also and seasonal. isbothscarcesuch aservice such andBucharest, asSofia but making your decision. and Russian road standards when take into account issues ofcomfort cheaper thanusingatrain, but respectively. Bothquicker and approximately R900andR1500 and Moscow14hours, costing Rostov-on-don isninehours away train station.Intermsofhostcities less thanakilometre from the the central bus station,whichis bebooked can Bus services from By Bus Eating andDrinking only 15-20minutes by foot. city’s famous Motherlandstatue) is but theMamayev Kurgan (with the away public so transportisadvisory, railway stationisagoodhour’s walk For example,in thecity. thecentral will dependonwhere you find yourself In termsofwalking tothestadium this toleaveoftime. advise plenty a five minute walk away but we would Vozrozhdeniya. It suggests are these will beTRKEvropa andPloshchad the tournament thenearest stops runs tothestadium, although during speed tram, thattypically a service centre bereached can by bus andhigh The ofthecity venue is4kmnorth 35,000.capacity reduced to the with stadium, inheritthe Rotor will Following tournament localteam the when itcomesto food, CafeMarusya , place withabitmore ofachoice But ifyou are lookingfor acafe-style the ground floorofHotelVolgograd. opento1am,itishoused on Pizzeria visitors a istheGrandCafe.Also The mostpopular spotfor many tank. the up fill to eateries people Volgograd offers plentyof With apopulation ofonemillion and aEuropean menu. whichoffers Craft craft beer Draft also German beers andpub grub. There is upwhilst Bambergserves anarray of beer,of meat, football andlive music’, for asa‘bar Poneslos pridesitself fans on Friday andSaturday nights. late. With Harats notclosinguntil 4am just acouple ofthebars thatopen Papa Bober(yes, that’s oneplace) are Harats, whichalongwithMamaNorka There isofcourse thestapleIrishPub, Mediterranean dishes. but awholerange ofseafood and highly rated. Offering notjust Italian, withBasilico orpasta, fancy pizza order oftheday.Take your pickifyou Volgograd Italian tobethe seems But aswithmany oftheoutlets in delicacies. thelocal somewhere totry Dvor renowned maybe for itsservice and fearless eaters, but Knyagininskiy the above will for cater bothfussy In termsofRussian Cuisine many of arangeserves ofGeorgian wine. is aGeorgian Restaurant, whichalso goodforalso larger groups. NaAllee andis bet, ONEGIN maybeabetter budget. Thereforemay notsuit every of anEnglish menu, although prices tourists for its steaks andprovision Bar andGrillispopular among your meal. and pricesthatshould notput you off all suffice. Theyalso provide free wifi Schastye EstandShokoladnitsawould around Volgograd public transport NavigatingWhen it comes to your way Around Getting largely accessible onfoot. exploring centre, city the is this However ifyou be happento just comes inthree regular formats. much like London’s Oyster card system. must beaddedtothecard, R50 further There isaR100activation fee, while any Soyuzpechat newsstands. Sovetskaya, Russian Mailofficesand Volna centre at 7Ulitsa service purchased upfrom the ortopped andcanbe city the trams within trolleybuses, tramsandhigh-speed Volgograd. Itcovers fares onbuses, prices andasurefire wayto explore A universal travel card offers reduced Travel card www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 47 Image © CC Alexxx Malev Volgograd Guide Volgograd Guide

Then when boarding your transport The fare is R25, or R23 if using a simply scan your card, which will print a travel card. receipt, or hand to the conductor. ELECTRIC TRAINS BUS, TROLLEYBUS, TRAM

Volgograd Guide The trains run parallel to the Volga, Bus is an all encompassing way to covering every district and many key get around the city and its suburbs, landmarks. The south is also reachable by whilst the tram and trolleybus train, unlike with the high-speed trams. systems link the centre to the north and west of Volgograd. A separate The main train station itself is centrally tram system also operates in the located and from the Komsomolskaya Krasnoarmeiskiy District. only a ten minute walk.

The fare on any of the above would be A fare will cost R40 regardless of the R20, or R18 if you pay with a travel card. distance to be travelled and can be purchased at ticket offices, self service Alternatively there are numerous machines and from a conductor on opportunities to board a Marshrutka. board. Although the latter is likely to These cover a whole host of routes, require a greater degree of Russian. but do not tend to have fixed timetables and spoken Russian is all CYCLING but essential. Cycling is popular in Volgograd and HIGH-SPEED TRAM there are a number of places to rent bikes, typically based around the The high speed tram covers five centre. Locals will typically cycle along of Volgograd’s eight districts the river embankments and to local Traktorozavodskiy, Krasnooktyabrskiy, parks, such as Gagarin Park. Tsentralnyi, Voroshilovskiy and Sovetski. It is made up of 20 stations (five of which are underground), but Things to see and do only 16 of these will operate during the tournament. Given its history and position in Russian Throughout the tournament the closest society much of the tourist picks and stops to the stadium will be TRK attractions centre around the city’s Evropa and Ploshchad Vozrozhdeniya. historical element. But if this is not your cup of tea there are a few other The service also reaches local landmarks options, and don’t forget the football is including the Central Park of Culture and on hand to ‘entertain’ as well. Recreation and Alleya Geroyev (Heroes’ Vista), and every stop offers a direct Mamai Hill, referred to as 102 during connection to the bus or trolleybus. Train wartime, is full of reminders of the connections are sometimes available, Battle of Stalingrad from statues to with a higher frequency along the lines memorials, along with a pantheon in the northern section. which marks by name over 7,000

48 stop only two blocks itiseasily stop onlytwo east, or from theplLenina high-speed tram alleya Geroyev through theriver park Just a20minute jauntbattle. from elementsee isapanorama ofthe whilstforthe battle, many themust followingmodel ofthedevastated city plentiful there exhibits isamoving popular. Amongstthe particularly with thePanorama proving Museum stoponthetourist route,further Stalingrad museum area isa typical Following such monuments the Volgograd Oblastheadquarters. unique buildings, theGovernment of andoneofVolgograd’s400th anniversary monument commemorating thecity’s Lenina (Lenin Avenue). These include a attractions are alongProspekt dotted Many ofVolgograd’s othermain wonders ofRussia. is considered tobeoneoftheseven onthesurroundingbattle ground and monument toall wholosttheirlives in Kurgan). At72m high itisastriking is astatueofMotherRussia (Mamaev soldiers killed. More centrally situated is recommended. era Lenina Ploschad (Lenin Square) For interested those intheSoviet museum (entryassociated R50). or avisittotheVolga-Don and canal a triptoworld’s largest Lenin statue, betiedinwith the museum visitcan Although slightly offthebeatentrack don’t goonaMonday-it’s shut! Ask tostopattheVinogradnaya and Lenina, whichwill take around anhour. (15a, 91a,93a, 93c, 93 or55a) from pr Toboat. getthere take amarshrutka available inEnglish ifthatfloats your A guide anoptionandtheyare isalso Volgograd thatpredate World War II. of few parts museum, itisoneofvery ethnographic andarchitectural by Gernguters. Now ahistorical, village ofwhatwas oncecolonised groups, itisessentially ahidden discounts beapplied can for larger hidden gem.PricedatR200, although has by asa beendescribed some time onyour handsOldSarepta visiting,ifyou worth have further But whilstevocative anddefinitely accessible costingR150. www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 49 Top Image © CC Wikimedia Commons | Bottom Image © CC Wikimedia Commons Volgograd Guide Volgograd Guide

Otherwise in keeping with other international chains are less frequent Russian cities Volgograd is liberally in the city. dotted with churches and other religious buildings. The most famous In terms of specifics Stary Stalingrad of which would be the Church of is centrally located and close to the

Volgograd Guide St Sergius of Radonezh, due to its main train station. It is also worth a mosaic decoration. The Church of look at if many of the chain hotels are the Assumption of the Holy Virgin is fully booked. Hotel Volgograd takes certainly pleasing on the eye and was it up in terms of standards as well as the city’s first catholic church in 1899. cost, but is located in a prime tourist spot and while again the Hotel Intourist Away from further relics and museums, sits centrally, it will set you back a few Mall Aquarelle is one of a few shopping more rubles. malls in which a handful of hours could be consumed. But if you are When it comes to searching booking. still seeking something different com and expedia are always popular there is a petting zoo located right choices, with the former claiming to by the Ploschad’ Chekistov bus-stop. have information of over 500 properties Although if that is not your idea of in Volgograd on their system. relaxation then a trip to the Volgograd- Baku Friendship Park might just be the But you can also try searching through afternoon you are looking for. Located www.hotels.fifa.com and www. around three quarters of an hour north welcome2018.com/en/hotels/ You can by high-speed tram along the Volga. select your required dates and find further information on the accommodation before making a booking. Accommodation Tourist Office Volgograd houses some of the grandest and most luxurious hotels along the Volga, but these are perhaps Volgograd has two travellers not ideal with a global football information centres. These offer all tournament coming to town, so the the usual services such as maps, city search for accommodation may guides (in several languages) and lead you further afield. Therefore free information. before booking anything make sure the location is accessible by public Information centres should have transport from the centre. Just multilingual staff who can provide because it says it is Volgograd it could information on the likes of local events, be within any of its eight regions. public transport and even guidance should there be an emergency. The chains of Hilton and Park Inn both have hotels in Volgograd, but be sure Traveller’s Information centre in the to book in advance as household Central District of Volgograd names are certain to be more Ulitsa Gagarina 12 popular amongst visitors, and such +7 (8442) 529-893

50 of 15,000. withacapacity Embankment, FEST will atthe62ndArmy belocated will game.Volgograd’s show every FAN Russian nationalteam,while others others will include matchesofthe that are itself, beingplayed inthecity mayonlybeopenforSome matches apply inanother. will that what appliedinonecity usualas the facilities, assume don’t likesthe as offive-a-sidewell pitches from tournamentsponsors, alongwith andinformation food stalls fast with they beequipped and while all will city, fromto city vary will however, for free.sizeandscale of these The onbigscreens, matches the watch gather and to areas allow supporters of Russia 2018a‘FAN FEST’. These providing aFan Zone, case orinthe to hascommitted city Each host Fan Zone on page 122. Commonwealth Office information Foreign pleaseseethe details and need any For assistance. additional should match you the and after days inthe city in the before, during berepresentativesthere will available There isnoembassy inVolgograd, but British Embassy +7 (8442) 501-153 Ulitsa Izobilnaya 10 museum andpreserve) Volgograd (at Staraya Sarepta the Krasnoarmeiskiy Districtof Traveller’s Information centre in www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup Saturday andSunday, 09:00—18:00 Monday —Friday, 08:00—22:00 9, Mira ul, Volgograd, 400066 Tel: +7 8442410821 Volgograd 400002 Address: 1Kazakhskaya Str., Regional Clinical HospitalNo7 +7 8442973956 Tel: +7 8442931090; Volgograd 400001 Address: 1Tsiolkovskogo Str., Regional Clinical HospitalNo3 +7 8442370347 Tel: +7 8442363623; Volgograd 400081 Address: 13Angarskaya Str., Regional Clinical HospitalNo1 Hospital: Hospital: Post Office 51 Image © CC Alexxx Malev Volgograd Guide Nizhny Novgorod Guide Nizhny Novgorod Guide

Group Stage Fixtures (local time) District: Volga District Population: 1,200,000 Match Date K/O Time zone: BST +2 hours Sweden vs Korea Average June temperature: 17.5°C 18/06 15:00 Republic (Group F) Argentina vs Croatia 21/06 21:00 (Group D) A city that has been referred to as the country’s wallet due to its trading England vs Panama 24/06 15:00 (Group G) heritage, Nizhny Novgorod is Russia’s fifth largest city. Founded in 1221 Switzerland vs Costa 27/06 21:00 when a Russian Prince constructed Rica (Group E) a fort at the confluence of the Volga and Oka rivers, the city is situated Round of 16 over 400km east of Moscow. Such a setting on the convergence of two Match Date K/O waterways adds to its picturesque setting, where its Kremlin sits high 1D vs 2C 01/07 21:00 surveying the surrounding urban area.

Referred to by some as Russia’s Quater Finals third capital, it has less of the hustle and bustle of Moscow and Saint Match Date K/O Petersburg, but is still one of the the W49 vs W50 06/07 17:00 nation’s most popular for tourism. It was included on a UNESCO list for Image © CC Wikimedia Commons Image © CC Wikimedia

52 in the north west oftheregion.in thenorth expected features, itisactually found centrefooled, whilstthecity hasall its ofbusiness. Don’t asacity growth be predominantlycity contribute toits districts, ofwhichthefive inthelower splitsNizhny into further eight of whichtheformer ismore historic, Divided into anupper andlower city, thewriterMaximGorky. after Gorky era, aswell asbeingrenamed to toforeignersclosed during theSoviet Nizhny asitiscolloquially calledwas having anincreasingly modernfeel. andculturalhistorical value, whilst the top100citiesglobally ofgreat Getting There Getting connections, withexpectedflight a number ofdirect daily Both S7andAeroflot operate internationalas some services. day,Russian citiesevery aswell countless internal flights tomajor The transport hub oversees Novgorod international airport. isNizhnysouthwest ofthecity Located lessthan20km By Air crossing theOkariver. and Leninskiy Districts,aswell as This covers both theAvtozavodskiy may befavourable totake theT-46. the Park Kultury metro it station,so marshrutka will onlygoasfar as and20, aswell astheT-29Buses 11 cost around R20for aoneway fare. all beused, believedthat can to marshrutkas busesandtwo two As for public transportthere are R1000 during theWorld Cup. is more expensive, costingaround 40-90 minutes) but asexpected quicker between (taking anything Theinto former thecity. isatouch choice ofeithertakingataxiorbus Once through customsyou have the is notdaily, bearthatinmind. so However by Lufthansa theservice available such asfrom Frankfurt. Direct international flights are atmostonceaday. typically and Ekaterinburg, butare these to thehostcitiesofSamara Direct flights be can also found take can so up tosevenhours. although doinclude these astop bemadetoKaliningrad, also can flights againavailable daily.Flights Petersburg, aswell asUTair, with The Saint sameairlines serve also times rarely more thananhour. having oneofthemore helpful oftheOkaandisknownbank for pl Revolyutsii onthewestern The train stationissituatedat www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup By Train 53 Image © CC- Rich Bowen Nizhny Novgorod Guide 54 Nizhny Novgorod Guide Left Image © CC- Wikimedia Commons, Right Image © CC- quinntheislander, Pixabay Nizhny Novgorod Guide previous Moskovsky. nameofGorky the stationasGorky, its after timetablesmayshow Some NOTE: free-train www.tickets.transport2018.com/ but must bereserved by visiting England matchagainstPanama, stations) before the andafter different Moscow (two between Free trains will berunning also hours, pricedaround R3000. takes of15 host city justshort while themosteasterlyWorld Cup younine hours R2600, back setting thattakesformer isadailyservice Ekaterinburg The maybeofuse. toKazanand accessibility In termsofheading eastbound more thanR3000. approximately 15hours, costing no bereached also can by train in aday.Saint Petersburgtwice hours. runsonly But thisservice fourMoscow inbetween tofive Sapsan/Lastochka will getyou to double thecosthigh-speed for R1300, however for around be reached dailyinseven hours heading eastorwest. Moscow can tend tofollow ofeither thepattern areConnections wideranging but buying tickets. centresservice whenitcomesto station (line 2)whichishopedto be Work ontheStrelka isunderway metro events. sporting other aswellOlimpiyets, asbeingused for tournament bythe club localfootball begraced will after pitched installed recently at timeofwriting.The the venue the with nearingcompletion joined byofblue and white, sections be columns will which many white tall features conservative”. exterior The more designisalittle Cathedral its Alexander Nevsky Novoyarmarichny tournament. atsummer’s this six matches host Volgaof the andOkarivers andwill overlooks stadium The joining the 45,000 Nizhny Novgorod Stadium -capacity StadiumThe the operator androute. costing up toR1000depending on 6-9take hours, between anything regimented timesthebus can unlike thetrain withits service from NizhnyHowever tothecapital. Buses operate onadailytobasis By Bus Due to its location near the location nearthe its Due to held up intraffic congestion. you offa distance away, andmayget taxiswillthe match,so have todrop ground are likely before tobeclosed only. Many oftheroads around the match days toallow for pedestrianuse totrafficwhich istobeclosed on BridgeoverKanavinsky theOkariver, allow minutes, 45 andgoacross the from thecentre. From theupper town (Moskovsky) andmore than3km from Nizhny’s mainrailway station In termsofwalking itisunder2km minute walk totheground. tothebus station-a15-20 and next This themainrailway isalso station as theMoskovsky Vokzal metro station. trolleybuses will onlygetyou asclose dropalso offnearby, but thetram and stadium. Buses andmarshrutkas will is afive minute walk from platform to open by thetimeofWorld Cup and could say. for everyone,watered, something you keepvariety ofplaces to you fed and away from Nizhny fast-food hasa Srednom isagoodkebab shop.But Shaurmana then happy now? Ifnot, McDonald’s around centre, city the Rumour hasitthere are four Eating andDrinking that housesvarious food outlets. centre justtothesouth ofthestadium You will findalarge also shopping during thetournament. and pub-grub, expectittobebusy floorsselection ofdrinks withawide might betheone.Spread across two onPiskunovahome thentheSport-Bar are searching for similarto something restaurants around Nizhny, but ifyou There are anumber ofJapanese dishes for around R400. noonandmidnight, with open between Ukranian fare, whichaswithPyatkinis your andVesyolayaoffers imports, not bemuch ofamerchant without from theVolga region. But you would yourself inanarray ofspecialities tovisitPyatkinandindulgechoose While inthemerchant you city may seafood toSiberiandelicacies. fit thebill. The menu varies from grilled Ekspeditsiya Severnaya Kukhnya may fancy finer Russian dining Restaurant what’s toidentify used what.But ifyou menu isnotinEnglish, pictures be can the equivalent of£5 andwhilstthe vegetarian options.Mostmealscost their popular dumplings, aswell as offers a range of dishes, including good prices.PelmennayaLepiTesto cuisine isavailable inabundance at RussianAway andpasta, from pizza kilometre from theKremlin ishandy. upmarket. But withina itslocation Bocconcino, although thisisabitmore be heaving.AnotherItalian optionis are applied, though often theplacewill lunchtime during theweek discounts withmealsaroundbank, R250. At relaxed feel anddoesn’t break the popular eateries.The Italian hasa Biblioteka isoneofthecity’s most www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 55 Image © CC- Harris Walker Nizhny Novgorod Guide Nizhny Novgorod Guide

If all else fails then locals recommend or trolleybus providing 70 minutes of Bolshaya Pokrovskaya Street (at unlimited travel after activation. the top of which is the Fan Zone and the bottom the Grand Chkalovskaya Travel cards are readily available for Staircase), or one block up from the purchase at all metro stations, as well waterfront on Rozhdestvenskaya Street as at a Pechat newsstand or local as places to eat and drink. Most bar post office. staff in pubs on these two streets will

Nizhny Novgorod Guide speak at least some English. BUSES, MARSHRUTKAS, TRAMS AND TROLLEYBUSES After all that food you may be after something to quench your thirst - you Bus and marshrutka routes are could try the English Embassy, the numerous, along with the 16 tram routes Sport Bar; and Erik the Red (part of and 18 different trolleybus routes. They a chain with pubs in other cities), of all also cover every district of the city, which the latter is also offering a ‘buy which makes things a little easier when three, get four’ offer to fans bringing navigating your way around. Free Lions with them. Don’t say we never give you anything. The number 2 tram may prove popular for those sightseeing as this covers the The Union Jack (of which there are whole historical centre in a loop. But three, a little chain, one of them is on all the transit options will get you to, or Rozhdestvenskaya Street) provides within a comfortable walking distance pub food, a big screen showing of the Kremlin and other key landmarks. football and menus in English. The fare for all is R20. This can be done Looking for a late one? The Art-Cafe by using a travel card, or simply by Bufet has music events, whilst the paying cash to the driver or conductor. Franky Cocktail Bar is open until 06:00 on Friday and Saturday nights. THE METRO Alternatively Tsiferblat is the city’s take on a board game cafe, but also opens Comprising two lines and 14 stations, late at weekends. the metro is the first in Russia to offer completely contactless payment. So if you don’t possess a contactless Getting around enabled device you will need to get a travel card.

TRAVEL CARDS It normally costs a standard R28 per journey, but it may be worth checking Single-ride cards are useful for paying with your bank what individual card either a Metro, bus, tram or trolleybus transaction costs are when abroad, fare, but other options may be more which may make the day passes a suitable. For R90 you can get an wiser investment. unlimited day-card providing travel on the above transport options. For R20 The Avtozavodskaya line has 11 you can get a travel card for the tram stations, covering the lower part

56 suburban destination. but increase toR60whenreaching a Prioksky District.Fares are R20, also finishing atProspekt Gagarina inthe a few stopsinsuburban areas before limit ithas thesoutherncity passing District.Once the Avtozavodskiy at Moskovsky Vokza andheadsinto summer months. This begins also line isonlyoperational during the runs all year round thePriokskaya irrespective ofdistance. Whilstthis Pochinki station.The fare isR20 endingSormovskiy atthe District, it travels tothecentre ofthe attheMoskovskyStarting Vokzal travelling ofthecity. tothenorth The Sormovo line isutilised when out ofthecentre. further little sights orifyour accommodation isa whenvisitingcertain it maybeofuse reaching different districts. However here are by mainlyused commuters for transport. The from trains thatdepart itisinfactthat, ahub for all public The central railway stationismore than ELECTRIC TRAINS until around midnight. station,whichopenfrom 05:15every Travel bepurchased cards can at on thisline. the Strelka metro stationwill be also Moskovskiy District.Oncecompleted other three inthe stationslocated Sormovsko-Meshcherskaya, withthe The lines beswitchedat can minutes from endtoend. oftown andisaboutupper 30 part in theNizhegorodskiy Districtinthe culminating atPloshchadGorkogo Park (Park Kultury station), before of town. atAvtozavodskiy It starts Things to seeanddo Things to Park.Embankment andSwitzerland Volzhskaya Grebnoi Embankment, Canal town andareas such astheNizhne- but sticktotheuppercycle doexist, impatient drivers. However spots to hill. The situationisnothelped by pushing theirbikes locals sees up inclines put tothis,whichoften pay around Many steep getting thecity. Cycling isnotacommonmethodof BY BIKE terminalsatthestations. serve electric trains atticket self- officesor Tickets bepurchased can for all where an eternal flame burns. where aneternal public,there isachurch the opento inside are for government usebut Volgathe river. Many buildings ofthe m highsurrounding walls overlooking aresame)two the andaseries of12 of13towers (ofconsists no which Fryazin Pyotr it by architect Italian Kremlin. century Designed 16th is its centrepieceThe ofNizhny Novgorod www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 57 Image © CC- Wikimedia Commons Nizhny Novgorod Guide 58 Nizhny Novgorod Guide Image © CC- quinntheislander, Pixabay Nevsky CathedralNevsky isthethird tallest in religious buildings, theSt.Alexander into thecity’s Intermsofother history. offer superb insight visuals andfurther complete withmulti-coloured exterior, green roof andtheStroganov Church, Michael Cathedral, withitsvibrant Sticking withculture, theArchangel H-bomb, isrecreated. team whocreated theSovietUnion’s flat ofAndrei Sakharov, who was onthe Sakharov MemorialHome, where the photography museum andtheAndrei from R170. Othermuseums include a from many cultural stages,withentry home toaplethora ofRussian art buildings isopenmostdays andis withintheKremlin’sMuseum many then you will be inluck. The Art And ifmore museums are your wish 10:00and17:00.between Nizhny’s openTuesday past, toSunday changing displays upon andexhibitions Tower. enter theDmitry can This houses further, for afew hundred rubles you still wanted toexplore theKremlin celebrations But ifyou inthevicinity. and evenings, orenjoy NewYear relax locals onsummer afternoons Whilst popular withvisitors many Nizhny Novgorod Guide a small Volga excursion boat orsitin is abitdaunting thenwhy notrelax on But ifthethought ofall thisgalavanting Pozharskogo andPloshchad Gorkogo. main squares ofPloshchadMininai street, whichconnectsthetwo the city’s mainandliveliest pedestrian should visitBolshaya Pokrovskaya, Those lookingtoexplore by foot the Volga beingashadedarker. rivers isadifferent colour, withthat of distinctly thatthe water see ofthetwo On theclearest ofdays, you are able to or number 2tram will take you there. 13 minutes. The number 26 trolleybus Volga below, withajourney justunder the gondolasfly82meters above the R100pertrip Costing opportunity. offers car auniquecable sightseeing If heights are notanissue thenthe and Metro Bridgeare ofnote. two Theviews KanavinoBridge ofthecity. the Volgathe Oka and two offer superb viewpoints. Eight bridges,sixcrossing Nizhny offers countless stunning But then iftimeisoftheessence DramaGorky Theatre. architectural such marvels asthe shows are offer noton,whichalso open tothepublic even when There are anumber also oftheatres disembark atChernyakhovsky Street. justtakewild cats, tram 6or7and including giraffes, zebras andmany Limpopo Zoo isrenowned (R400), In termsofotherattractions the name justafew. and mosque inSennaya Square, to Nizhnylocated Novgorod Synagogue Monastery,Ascension thecentrally domed cathedral atthePechersky stadium. Orthere isanimpressive five Russia andsitsadjacent tothefootball yet modern placetostay. forscope different groups inafunctional insize, there so hostels. Dormsvary is the night thentheSmileisoneofmany tighter oryou simplyjustneedabedfor reflect that.However if your budget is but asonethecity’s seen bestitsprices Jouk-Jacques offers aboutique abode, bonus ofriver views. links rooms andsome have theadded hotel iswell situatedfor transport Nothing specialfrom theoutside, the is theAZIMUTHotelNizhny Novgorod. upwards. Alongthesamepricerange Cup, withrooms pricedatR3000 willso prove usefulduring theWorld standards, houses many italso guests The Ibis ispopular due toitsstrong available inthecity. andHilton arechains ofMarriott both having public computers for The use. hostels will provide free wifi,withmany It isexpectedthatall hotelsandeven advance avoid to any disappointment. so asalways we advise you bookin beexponentiallydemand will higher, tournamenthappening football problematic. But asthere isamajor shouldn’t stay proveto that findingsomewhere industry tourism Nizhny’sDue to and size, growth Accommodation cultural monuments withinNizhny. six-hundred historic,architectural and anddowithoverof thingstosee As you tell can there isanabundance to enjoy afew hours intheafternoon. over 560stepsthere ofroom isplenty the sun ontheChkalov Staircase? With before makingabooking. information ontheaccommodation your select required dates and findfurther welcome2018.com/en/hotelsYou can andwww. www.hotels.fifa.com searchingBut through you try also can inVolgogradproperties ontheirsystem. to have information ofover 1,200 choices, withtheformer claiming com andexpedia are always popular When itcomestosearching booking. but makes for alongday! potential scramble for accommodation, fullafter time, thiswould avoid the trains thatarrive pre-match anddepart Another optionistobookthefree withmanycomparison otherhostcities. stadium isquite itself centrally in located ofthestadium, howevervicinity the There are notmany hotelsinclose www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup (admission ward) Tel: +7 831432872 Nizhny Novgorod 603126 Address: 190Rodionova Str., Hospital inthenameofSemashko Nizhegorodskaya OblastClinical Alternatively, Russia, 603076 Nizhegorodskaya oblast’, Nizhnij Novgorod, Prospekt Lenina, 54, language volunteers available. 33, whichwill have extraEnglish World Cup visitors will beHospital The hospitaldesignatedfor any Hospital: 59 Nizhny Novgorod Guide 60 Nizhny Novgorod Guide Image © CC- alex1983, Pixabay pages 122. Commonwealth Office information on Foreign please seethe details and any For assistance. additional should match you the need after days in the city before, during and representatives available inthe Novgorod, but be there will There isnoembassy inNizhny British Consulate https://nnwelcome.ru/ +7 (831) 230-3067 +7 (831) 230-3038 Nizhny Novgorod Nizhne-Volzhskaya Naberezhnaya 16Zh, Information Centre Nizhny Novgorod Traveller’s should there beanemergency. public transport andeven guidance information onthelikes events, oflocal multilingualcan provide staffwho Information centres should have Strelka. the opposite Okabank riverboat onthe the station, information centre nextto islocated In Nizhny Novgorod, traveller’s the Tourist Office Nizhny Novgorod Guide Saturday andSunday 09:00-17:00 Monday-Friday 08:00-20:00, Nizhny Novgorod, Russia, 603000 Bolshaya Pokrovskaya ul 57 Post Office capacity of15,000.capacity the MininandPozharsky Square, witha Novgorod’s FAN FEST will at belocated will game.Nizhny show every Russian nationalteam,whileothers others will include matchesofthe that are itself, beingplayed inthecity mayonlybeopenforSome matches applyinanother. will applied inonecity facilities, assume don’t thatwhat aswellusual asthe a-side pitches likes the sponsors, alongwith offive- andinformation from tournament stalls food fast they beequippedwith all will city,from to city however, andwhile vary will sizeandscaleofthese The onbigscreens, for matches free. the gather andwatch to allow supporters Russia 2018a‘FAN FEST’. areas These providing aFan Zone, caseof orinthe to hascommitted city Each host Fan Zone Kaliningrad Guide 1991. Wedged Poland between and Soviet ofthe collapse Union in inanexclavesits formed by the Prussia, Kaliningrad ofEast capital Formerly known asKönigsberg, the Group Stage (localtime) Fixtures Average June 15°C temperature: Time zone:BST +1 hour Population: 459,000 Russia Northwest District: (Group E) vsSerbia Switzerland D) (Group Croatia vs Nigeria Match (Group B) (Group vsSpain Morocco England vs Belgium 28/06 22/06 25/06 16/06 Date Date 20:00 20:00 20:00 21:00 K/O Its is marked growth by its further isitsmainbusiness.amber industry of trade into Europe, ofwhichthe haulage,of sea essentially agateway Pregolya River, isaneconomichub The city, situated atthemouth ofthe converted into tourist spots. having onlyinrecent years been andlandmarksfortifications ofconflict the SovietUnion breakup, withmany remained toforeigners closed until WorldUnion after War II.Infact it the region was awarded totheSoviet the has beennamedsince1946 after evident withinKaliningrad, whichit The element ofSoviet influence is century. 13th the Moskovskiy, was city founded the in Tsentralnyi, Leningradskiy and region. Splitthree districts into Kaliningrad ofthe iscapital city the Lithuania coast Baltic alongthe www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 61 Image © CC- Wikimedia Commons Kaliningrad Guide 62 Kaliningrad Guide Image © CC- Fuzz, Pixabay Getting There Getting numerous cultural hotspots. complemented by pleasant parks and effective public transportsystems, Kaliningrad Guide between R400-R600.But asis between Uber orYandex usually costing highway, withataxibooked through about 20minutes ontheA-217 25km ofthecity, north takes so Khrabrovo is International Airport offer connectionsas well. and Minskhave been known to regular connections,but Berlin Warsaw andRigaput onthemost are from other European cities. are notavailable from theUK,but Away from Russia direct flights no more hours. thantwo Flights should from take eithercity from Moscow. non-stop services with UTair offering andS7also by Ural Airlines andAeroflot, Direct flights from bothare run Moscow andSaint Petersburg. with dailyconnectionsfrom both isserved International Airport Kaliningrad’s Khrabrovo By Air of Russia train are services In termsofdestinationsoutside hours inbothcases. and thejourney takingatleast20 R2000 for thelowest ofclasses Petersburg, at withpricesstarting daily tobothMoscowandSaint be Yuzhny Vokzal. Trains run from Kaliningrad,departing would botharrivingand services, The train station for most around matches. early andlateflights, particularly operational for hours extended the tournament. This should see tobeintroducedset aheadof howeverschedule aspecific is 08:20 andthelastoneat22:00, the first at bus out oftheairport 07.00, thelastone, at20:20, with bus leaves thebus stationat 07:00 and22:00.Usually thefirst buses onlyrunningbetween sees runstoatimetablethat the airport Typically thetransit toandfrom byorcard. bepaid cash can R100 withafee for and baggage cost R80, but thiscould costup to take nomore thananhour and 40minutes. Itleave every should station only, generally services andbus theairport between travelling Running totheairport. e bus istheonlyoptionwhen Official adviceisthatthe244- transport isamuch cheaperoption. becoming arecurring theme, public By Train get caught out! at09:00-don’tactually depart timetabled toleave at 10:00will toSaint Petersburga service run onMoscow time.Therefore trains travelling out oftheregion It iswell notingthatany worth to avoid disappointment. tobookearlyinorderadvise group we matches.So would to thethree for theothertwo thematch,asopposed and after there isonlyonetrain before . However forfree-train thisfixture www.tickets.transport2018.com/ but must bereserved by visiting thematchagainstBelgium, after Moscow beforebetween and Free trains will berunning also European nationsare seasonal. of Poland andotherneighbouring connectionstothelikesfurther taking around sixhours, whilst R2000-R4000,costing between connections rundailytoVilnius city’s position.Two orthree surprisingly irregular given the details when making a booking. details whenmakingabooking. doubleso checkyour departure from theYuzhnydepart bus station, Not all international bus services com/en/ -www.kenigauto. Könnig Avto Eurolines -www.eurolines.com/en/ international/en Ecolines -www.ecolines.net/ just onceaweek. R5000 andtakes 24 hours operating destination, but thiscould costup to journey, isanother whilstStuttgart afield Tallinn isagood14hours fare andtakes 6hours. Further than aR1000;Vilnius hasasimilar costnomorenine hours andoften to Riga andWarsaw should last leave three timesaday.Journeys costing around R500andoften regularly, takingunderfive hours, to thestate.Buses runtoGdansk international asopposed companies from Kaliningrad tendtoberunby Long distancetoand bus services www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup By Bus 63 Image © CC- Wikimedia Commons Kaliningrad Guide 64 Kaliningrad Guide Image © CC- ermakovasve, Pixabay roof weighing inexcess of15,000 tonnes. ongoing following ofa completion the decorating underwayandinternal seats of installation the 90% with complete, west ofcentral Kaliningrad, isreportedly venue,new. The stadium just located city’s the Oktyabrsky Island,home to ensuredcity redevelopment the of Kaliningrad’s asahost selection Kaliningrad Stadium -capacity 35,000 StadiumThe Kaliningrad Guide driving inRussia. information19 &20for further on pages see lane.Please own entry five hours, whilstthe bus hasits heldatborder crossingsoften for aslesshasslewithcars it isseen But many peoplefavour thebus– from eitherPoland orLithuania. Kaliningrad beentered can by car Saint Petersburg. Ust-Luga whichis150kmwest of toBaltiyskbasis of from theport ferriesCar operate onaweekly By Boat By Car until 02:00 onFriday andSaturday accommodates for vegetarians. Open tothegrill, pan italso from thefrying up ofdishesjust suit. avariety Serving ChesnokRestaurantmay of abudget, dining establishments, orifonmore Away from themore sophisticated mealsmaycostupsome toR1500. view andafully fresh menu, although aquarium orwithasplendid waterfront is Italian.suggests serves also Orthere popular seafoodbut outlet, asthename open until 23:00. Parmezanisanother ofseafoodwide selection onoffer, more thanjustmoules-frites, witha inspired restaurant, up but itserves Madame BusheisaFrench cafe fromcuisine, R150. with dishes starting offerthe various ofeither options likeschoice. The ofFestandTabasko combination the -orat least pizza that offerthe restaurants sushi and Kaliningrad houses anumber of inRussia, beathing As seemsto Eating andDrinking good hour by foot. From centre thecity itwould bea the likes busestothevenue. ofshuttle watch forconstruction, so thisspace walk. However accessroads are under nearest still requiring a20minute links tothestadium, close withthe There are currently nopublic transport of25,000.capacity Although will these beatareduced events. andothersporting concerts stadium, tohost set whichisalso Kaliningrad will move inwiththe theWorldAfter Cup FC Baltika , with tables either in the Fish Club,withtableseitherinthe popular during thetournament. tobe Kiberda,whichisset bar sports British pub. Elsewhere enjoy locals cuisine andBritannicaisachain isanIrishpubLiBEERty offering hearty If you are thefamiliar after then gay-friendly.latter younger club music scene, withthe Stoned PonyandAmsterdamoffer a bar,is ahipsterwhisky whilstthe Elsewhere served. WB17Ddelicacy menu intrigues also withreindeer a for brewing four beers, thefood open late, asisKmel.Renowned as well asupmarket pub-grub. Both beers,patrons witharange ofhearty Britannica andZolterBierprovide then Kaliningrad tooffer. hasplenty If it’s more atippleyou are after whatever thetimeofdayornight! the menu for hassomething everyone, clock withviews across Square Victory Laor try PlasCafe.Openaround the yourBreakfast Cafewill start dayright, At theotherendofday refreshing you withcraftbeers. convenience andquality, aswell as gastro-pub without thepricehike for opening hours YeltsinBarcrosses change. With similarlyaccommodating nights pricesconstitutepocket all intersect inthecentre. meaningthatto southoreastwest, All resorts. seaside lines operate north trains withintheregion, such as to in theCentral Districtfocuses on Kaliningrad-Severnyi Station) (North where leave. long-distance services District isthemainstationfrom (South Station) intheMoskovskiy trainhas two stations.Yuzhny Vokzal inthecentre,Both located Kaliningrad ELECTRIC TRAINS are R20. whilst all theotherforms oftransit The fare for themarshrutkas isR22, stadium, yet). isaccessible(apart from the everywhere an additional by 14served marshrutkas that problem. With 32routes, aswell as one modeoftransport buses will solve afieldorpreferfurther stickingwith handy, but ifyou are lookingtotravel covering justthecentral areas. Both withtramson thewestern outskirts, tramtwo lines. Trolleybuses concentrate hassixtrolleybusThe city routes and TROLLEYBUSES BUSES, MARSHRUTKAS, TRAMS AND agreed inadvance. driversmost be prefer afare to somehave andwhilst option meters sourcebest forTaxis this. remain an foot but many seebuses asthe Some areas canbeexplored by itiswired up.of public transport sointerms itself city capital in the Kaliningrad population Oblast’s live Approximately halfofthe Around Getting www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup

65 Image © CC- Vovka, Pixabay Kaliningrad Guide 66 Kaliningrad Guide Image © CC- ermakovasve, Pixabay notoriously problematic. of 08:00-10:00 and 17:00-19:00 are in thecentre.particularly The hours conurbation congestionisinevitable, stress-free, but aswith any sprawling Driving around is generally thecity BY CAR lakes ofVerkhneye andNizhneye. whoexploreof locals parks andthe from arental outlet andfollow thepath Hireto cycling withinthecity. abike considering thearray ofplacessuited a limited one, whichispuzzling around Kaliningrad iscurrently The infrastructure inplacetocycle BY BIKE ticket machines. boarding atstationticket officesand conductors onthetrain, orbefore R200. Tickets bepurchased can from suburban could location costover Therefore atriptomore remote but increase withdistance travelled. Fares begin onall atR20, services Kaliningrad Guide information ondrivinginRussia. 19and20for pages see further Please suburbs atintersections. of routes thenleading offto various and outer ring-road withanumber roads essentially consistofaninner system isnotbeyond navigation.The within bus stops,whilsttheroad is forbidden onany sidewalk and isfreeparking unlessindicated,and But despitesuch issues street you craningyour neckinawe. ceilings leave with thatwill complete building seethe atcity’s heart, the to it was Königsberg. Entrance isR150 feature from tangible city when ofthe 700at least years previous. Itisa 1990’s building back the to dates the Restored significantly in Site. isaUNESCOwhich World Heritage cathedral, its avisitto begin with Any exploration ofKaliningrad would seeanddo Things to Many traditional buildings give an insight Alternatively Yunost (Youth) Park, into Kaliningrad’s past, which can if features a labyrinth of mirrors, an preferred all be viewed from on high. Upside-Down House, as well as a go- The lighthouse viewing tower is open kart centre. between 10:00-22:00, with entry R50. However if you fancy something with Kaliningrad Guide Kaliningrad If you still have an appetite for the city’s a bit more go then boat tours operate past then visit Friedland Gate where in the summer months. For R250 you you can view a 40-minute programme will be treated to a 45-minute voyage upon pre World War II Königsberg. which includes travelling around Kant Adult tickets are R20. Or take a trip Island where the cathedral is situated. to the Bunker Museum, in which the bombproof underground museum Elsewhere the local zoo houses one of charts East Prussia during the conflict. Kaliningrad’s largest fountains, as well as its resident lions and bears. Further remaining old fortifications and the like are dotted around the city But perhaps you may be short for with the Amber Museum housed inside time, so other than the cathedral the Dohna Tower. Home to thousands Victory Square may be worth your of amber exhibits, entry is less than valuable time. Known by locals as 200 rubles and is open everyday but Ploshchad Pobedy, the city centre Monday, 10:00-18:00. Souvenirs are offers a good photo opportunity available within the museum but you of a golden-domed cathedral and will also find many sellers out and a bustling area in the heart of about, hardly surprising with 90% of Kaliningrad. The streets of Kutuzova global amber stocks within the region. and Telmana are also popular spots.

Continuing in a similar vein the city art gallery offers a range of works, whilst the Accommodation History and Arts museum offers a more modern take on Kaliningrad through its exhibitions. But the Museum of the World The increasing nature of tourism Ocean may be that something different makes finding accommodation less you are seeking. Including maritime of an issue and more variable year infrastructure and real world aquatic upon year, in what for decades was creatures, it covers a lot and provides simply seen as a former Soviet guided tours every 45 minutes. Entry is outpost. The city has a typical mix R300 for this experience by the banks of of luxury hotels, apartments and the river Pregolya. hostels to suit all, with an Ibis and Radisson two of the household If you want to avoid being cooped names open to guests. up inside for too long then Central Park and Victory Park are a pleasant However with the World Cup on any way to unwind in the afternoon, or abodes doorstep beware of the converse with friends over coffee. inevitable price hike. Although for those Central also houses some monuments working within a budget accomodation and an amphitheatre. is not all sky high prices.

www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 67 Kaliningrad Guide

The Amigos hostel has beds for around information on the accommodation 500 rubles a night and also provides before making a booking. an option of bike rental, a service that can be hard to find around town. NOTE: If finding accommodation to suit Elsewhere the Akteon Lindros Hostel your budget or even at all is proving features friendly staff and like Amigos difficult, consider staying outside of Kaliningrad Guide Kaliningrad is well connected in terms of public the region. Some operators are and transport. But if both unavailable the others may follow suit with laying on Have a Nice Day hostel will ensure specific buses from Gdansk. Finding just that. It’s a bit more basic, but is somewhere to stay for a reasonable nothing to fear and ideal if you just price should be much easier there. need somewhere for shut eye.

Otherwise you may wish to look into Hospital: the hotel scene, which again has a number of options. Villa Severin is a pleasant guesthouse and rooms Regional Clinical Hospital often come at reduced rates should Address: 74 Klinicheskaya Str., you opt out of a breakfast, while Kaliningrad 236016 Hotel Kaliningrad marries a good Tel: +7 4012 578451; location with a reasonably priced yet +7 4012 578579 filling breakfast. Rooms for there are Medical Director +7 4012 578558 generally priced up to R2250.

For something a bit more special both Chaika and Heliopark Kaiserhof Post Office offer rooms with rates usually up to 5000 rubles a night. They have well furnished rooms and a number of Main Post Office of Kaliningrad: added amenities onsite. 22 Leonova Street, 236022 Kaliningrad, Russia If you are keen to stay close to the Mon-Fri 08:00-22:00 stadium then along the Pregolya Sat, Sun 09:00-18:00 riverbank near to the Königsberg +7 (4012) 21-98-68, 21-16-10, 21- Cathedral you will find the Kaiserhof 37-08 Hotel and Skipper Hotel. 236039, Kaliningrad When it comes to searching booking. 6, Krasnooktyabr`skaya ul, com and expedia are always popular Kaliningrad, 236039 choices, with the former claiming to Mon-Fri 08:00-20:00 have information of over 1,700 properties Saturday, 09:00-18:00 in Kaliningrad on their system. 100, Bagrationa ul, Kaliningrad, You can also try searching through www. 236024 hotels.fifa.com and www.welcome2018. Tues-Fri 10:00-14:00, 15:00-19:00 com/en/hotels/. You can select your Sat 10:00-14:00, 15:00-17:00 required dates and find further

68 Tourist Office but berepresentatives there will There isnoembassy inKaliningrad, British Consulate https://russia.travel/kaliningradskaja/ Tourist siteoftheKaliningrad Region +7 (4012) 536-593 Ulitsa Universitetskaya 2A,Kaliningrad Bunker Museum Traveller’s Information Centre at the http://visit-kaliningrad.ru/ +7 (4012) 555-200 Prospekt Mira 4,Kaliningrad Regional Traveller’s Information Centre should there beanemergency. public transport andeven guidance information onthelikes events, oflocal multilingualcan provide staffwho Information centres should have readily available. free offerings ofmapsandcity guides information centres, standard the with Kaliningrad hasanumber oftravellers Square, with a capacity of15,000.Square, withacapacity FAN FEST will attheCentral belocated will game.Kaliningrad’s show every Russian nationalteam,while others others will include matchesofthe that are itself, beingplayed inthecity mayonlybeopenforSome matches apply inanother. will that what appliedinonecity usualas the facilities, assume don’t likesthe as offive-a-sidewell pitches from tournamentsponsors, alongwith andinformation food stalls fast with they beequipped and while all will city, fromto city vary will however, for free.sizeandscale of these The onbigscreens, matches the watch gather and to areas allow supporters of Russia 2018a‘FAN FEST’. These providing aFan Zone, case orinthe to hascommitted city Each host Fan Zone information onpages Foreign andCommonwealth Office pleaseseethe additional details should you needany For assistance. match the before, during andafter available days inthe city inthe www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 69 Image © CC- ermakovasve, Pixabay Kaliningrad Guide 70 Moscow Guide Image © CC- 12019 Pixabay Moscow Guide Luzhniki Stadium SemiFinals Luzhniki Stadium Round of16 Group Stage(localtime) Fixtures Luzhniki Stadium W59 vs W60 Match 1B vs 1A Match (Group F) Germany vs Mexico Arabia (Group A) Russia vs Saudi Match (Group C) Denmark vs France B) (Group Portugal vs Morocco 20/06 26/06 14/06 01/07 17/06 Date Date Date Date 11/07 18:00 18:00 21:00 15:00 17:00 17:00 K/O K/O K/O Group Stage (localtime) Fixtures Stadium Spartak Luzhniki Stadium Final Luzhniki Stadium Round of16 (Group C) vsSerbia Brazil B) (Group Belgium vs Tunisia (Group H) Poland vs Senegal D) (Group Argentina vs Iceland Match W61 vs W62 Match 1H vs 2G Match 26/06 23/06 03/07 16/06 19/06 15/07 Date Date Date Date Date 18:00 16:00 21:00 15:00 15:00 17:00 K/O K/O K/O ensures a trip is characterised with fine The increasing diversity ofwealth not confined toitshistory. unlike Russian is some citiesthecapital architecture andcountless landmarks, of Complemented by anexpansive city and Red Square totherest ofMoscow. globally, withall roads from extending it symbol ofpower withinRussia and The Kremlin isbothavisual andactive Moscow’s crown jewel sits atitscentre. rivers, theMoskvaof two andNeglinka, atthemeetingpoint Founded in1147 and beyond.Sites threeUNESCO its Worldto Heritage annually flocking four tourists million travellers mass appealto its over with from finance, detract this doesnot but figureheadthe of Russian politicsand inEurope populated city most itis nation’sis the second The capital. colossus andcentre ofwealththat Moscow, vast the anindication into areas of metropolitan the within ofRussia’sA tenth population live Average June 17°C temperature: Time zone:BST +2hours Population: 12,300,000 Central District District: Getting There Getting wheelsviapedalpower. on two around andcruise picnic atthepark and visitors alike explore gardens, districts lies agreenWhere city. locals still amongstall ofthisandwithinits12 as withany Yet developed western city. culture from modernactivitiesandart, cuisine, reputable retail andimmersive Budapest andMinsk,with most from Berlin, Warsaw, Riga,Vilnius, bemade also connections can Petersburg. International Kazan, Ekaterinburg andSaint Nizhny Novgorod, Kaliningrad, the likes Volgograd, ofSochi, nature bemadeto also can Domestic flights ofanon-stop amenities. the expectedairport ofsixterminalswithallcomprises which Heathrow andGatwick, from bothLondonto thisairport Aeroflot operates services daily ofthecity 32km northwest AIRPORT INTERNATIONAL SHEREMETYEVO annually.passengers Vnukovo oversees around 12million most international flights, whilst city’s largest andmanagethe areand Domodedovo Airport the Sheremetyevo International Airport tocountriesthose inCentral Asia. operates internal connectionsor although Zhukovsky mainly andsince2016afourth, airports byMoscow isserved three major www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup By Air 71 Image © CC- AKuptsova, Pixabay Moscow Guide Moscow Guide

flights run by Aeroflot who are booking in advance to avoid based at this airport. disappointment with demand expected to be high come June.

Moscow Guide The quickest way into Moscow is by using the Aeroexpress train, Away from the airport the fare R470. It runs from terminal E Aeroexpress train takes around to the Belorusssky station in the three quarters of an hour, running northwest of Moscow’s centre, between 06:00 and midnight. The which is a further 20 minute metro fare is R470 and will take you to ride to the centre. Departures are the city’s south-east Paveletsky every half an hour between 05:30 station, which is then 20 minutes and 00:30. Buses are also available on the metro to the centre. and are cheaper, but drivers However if looking to save a few rarely speak any English, with final rubles, as expected the bus is destinations generally further from cheaper. The journey takes 30 the city centre. However there is a minutes and they leave every 15 night bus H1 between the airport minutes, or once every 40 minutes and Leninskiy Prospekt Metro between midnight and 06:00. Station, this runs every half an hour But if you prefer the train and are and may prove handy if your flight on a budget the commuter train lands in the wee small hours. fare is R120 (the same as most buses); it takes 75 minutes but Taxis are also available and to the has the same destination as the city centre have a fixed price of Aeroexpress. Official taxis come at R1800, but the Moscow traffic jams the fixed price of R1650. can make it slow progress indeed. VNUKOVO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT DOMODEDOVO AIRPORT Serving around 12 million Nearly 50km south of Moscow and passengers a year the airport is base for airline S7, the airport has situated 30km southwest of the undergone much work in the early city. Only half of the host cities 2000’s making it the city’s most can be reached by using non- efficient. From the UK direct flights stop flights which includes Nizhny are offered by British Airways but not Volgograd, although the and depart daily from London airport tends to provide the most Heathrow. However a number of daily connections to Kaliningrad low cost airlines fly from a host of from Moscow. From Europe European destinations. Popular Lufthansa and Eurowings operate examples include, NIKI from services from Germany, although Vienna, Lufthansa from Frankfurt more frequent flights tend to and Munich and Pobeda from be by UTair. They also provide Milan and Barcelona. Connections connections with Minsk and Riga. are also possible to all the other Turkish Airlines fly from Istanbul, host cities, but we would advise with Budapest accessible thanks

72 with your bank. aware ofcard transaction fees will save you afew rubles, but be Aeroexpress, thisisquicker and payment cardtoenter/exit the You your use can contactless hop aboard. right outside you’d tonot bedaft popular, but ifabus will drop you The Aeroexpress isthemost the besttransport togetthere. where you’re stayingandtarget travelling Identify from theairport. huge city, beprepared so when Be aware thatMoscowisa other airports. not aswell linked asthe tothecity CIScountries,between anditis at Zhukovsky tendtooperate following works in2016.Flights andwas onlyreopenedairport This isby far Moscow’s smallest AIRPORT ZHUKOVSKY INTERNATIONAL to surge pricing. around R1000, besubject but can with afixed pricetendtocost beagood90minutes.Taxiscan metro travel timetothecentre although whencombinedwiththe 15minutes,R55 andleave every are centre. and911) Buses (611 20 minutes viametro from the airport, terminates attheKievsky 06:00-23:00. The fare isR470 and hourly,and departs between Aeroexpress takes 35minutes When heading the into thecity from theUK. Air.Nodirectto Wizz go services • • • • • • details toavoid any issues. make sure you checkyour departure byserved more thanonestation.So cover all destinations this,withsome options ittakes ninemainstationsto China andMongolia. Given all these totheeastincludingand those well asmany destinationsinEurope trains tomostareas ofRussia, as Unsurprisingly Moscowserves www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup Domodedovo airport. Nohost Domodedovo airport. suburban trains tothe Paveletsky Vokzal -Runs ontimetables as Oktyabrsky MaybereferredScandinavia. to to Saint Petersburg, Estonia and Leningradsky Vokzal -Services Ukraine, Georgia andAzerbaijan to on-Don, but mainlyservices to Nizhny Novgorod andRostov- Kursky Vokzal trains -Ocasional and Romania notably Hungary, Republic Czech international destinations,most VokzalKievsky -Trains tovarious Nizhny Novgorod Samara, trains withsome to to Kazan,Rostov-on-Don and VokzalKazansky trains -Serves Germany, Poland andLithuania to Kaliningrad, aswell asBelarus, VokzalBelorussky -Connections By Train 73 Image © CC- tpltsky Moscow Guide Moscow Guide 74 Top Image © CC Wikimedia Commons, Bottom Image © CC-EvgeniT, Pixabay Moscow Guide need aBelarussianVisa. throughpass you Belarusso will and Paris, although many ofthese connect Prague, Vienna, Budapest travel time.Weekly also services R9000. Helsinkiisaround 13hours from Warsaw takes 19hours, fare Adirectservices. overnight train connected through anumber of Out ofRussia, Europe is of carriage. R9000 depending onyour choice train rideaway costingup to Ekaterinburg a30hour isoften less pricey.Elsewhere inRussia, run frequently andtendtobe to R6000.Overnight trains also per daythefare up isanything four seventimes hours. Departing Saint Petersburg isaccessiblein In termsofmoreservices specific • • • trains toNizhny Novgorod Russian Far but some East, offers connectionstothe Yaroslavsky Vokzal -Typically locations local VokzalSavyolovsky -Only trains toLatvia VokzalRizhsky -Stationserves cities have direct connections The StadiumsThe details so youdetails so are notcaught out. double checkyour departure of bus stationsaround thecity, from anumber depart Bus services the traffic capital. leavingthe by train, but thislargely dependson be quicker thanthesamejourney destinations around Moscowcan busthe price.Some tripsto bedoubled,this can alongwith Berlin, Prague andBudapest times of15-20hours, whilstfor Tallinn andVilnius have journey from Europe. Citiesincluding Riga, Long-distance busesare available By Bus is officially Spartak Moscow’s ownis officially Spartak thatstadium first remarkably the andisfour complete years to took stadium Opened in2014the Stadium -capacity45,000Spartak Okhotny Ryad orBiblioteka. around tenminutes from either Bothare onlineGory. 1and take andVorob’yovyStation Sportivnaya within walking distance oftheground, Accessible by metro, stationslie two centre.southwest ofthecity justsixmiles Complex Sports The stadium lies withintheLuzhniki tournament. the Russia’s after matches international additional venue tiersthe host will two with Complete pitch. the to beingmoved stands the with closer trackathletics hasbeenremoved remains, but exterior the historic has undergone significant The work. However stadium the sincethen andChelsea. United Manchester Champions League Final between locationas the forall-English the in recent years itiswell remembered Olympic track andfieldcompetitions, venue The matches. for1980 the including more3,000 than football events, countless sporting hosted builtvenueOriginally in1956the has Luzhniki Stadium -capacity80,000 are aired often ontheirbigscreens. cheap food andbeer, andlive sports drink. Kruzhka popular isalso withits from bread, rye atraditional Russian from, washed down withKvass, made crepes) with many fillings tochoose Teremok. Selling blinchiki (Russian McDonald’s andKFC, why nottry Away from thefast food hubs of can supply menus inEnglish. andmanyaccept plastic eateries Regarding places payment, most forare this limited.catering butoptions, solely restaurants Some places may vegetarian offer localcuisine. offering outlets chains andreasonably priced plentiful, but food soarefast the are restaurants High-end capital. food anddrinkintheit comesto You for bespoilt choicewhen will Eating andDrinking by numerous bus routes. 10 minutes walk, served whichisalso the Tushinskaya Metro Stationisonly five minutes walk away. Alternatively whichis and disembarkatSpartak Easily reached by metro, take line 7 centre, justinsidethecity’s ringroad. the stadium isabout 14kmfrom the ofMoscowSituated inthenorthwest be closedduringtournament. the museum, may althoughthis Spartak a alongwith a number ofstatues featuresArena. venue The further Bayernsimilar to Munich’s Allianz playing, coloursthe teams ofthe reflect featuring to alight system Confederations outside Cup, the with venueThe was2017 usedinthe clubsince the were founded in1922. www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 75 Image © CC- Wikimedia Commons Moscow Guide 76 Moscow Guide Image © CC quim gil everyday, cooks up French delicacies which isopenuntil midnight Brasserie Most(Teatralnaya metro), you will againbespoilt for choice. If you want topushout theboat rubles, many will costhalfofthat. cuisine, withmealspricedup to1000 upand serve proper Georgian (Taganskaya metro) buck thistrend (Pushkinskaya metro) andDarbazi least bitauthentic. BothKhachapuri willthese beoverpriced andthe ofEasternEurope.those Many of any country) cuisine, particularly authenticplaces advertising (insert pick, although you will alotof see Elsewhere it’s oftakingyour acase such fayre proximity. withinclose R1000, but are ofmany offering two for themainlandmarks withmealsoften (Lubyanka metro) offer primelocations Revolyutsii metro) andCoffeeMania dining. The BoscoCafe(Ploshchad be more expensive whenitcomesto Of course areas neartheKremlin will Moscow Guide

closer tothe centre.closer evening, especially for restaurants reservations are recommended inthe Wherever you todine, choose of Moscow’s lesbianmovement. (Mayakovskaya metro) was thefounder and dancefloors, whilst 12volts (Kurskaya metro) offers cheapdrinks Secret gay andlesbianscene. Additionally hasanexpanding thecity drinks andalternative tunes. you out until 06:00.Goodfor cheap (Metro KitayGorod) doesnotturf a hunger for more thenPropaganda until midnight daily, but ifyou have draught beers. It andbottled isopen one ofthecity’s greatest varieties of Room (Metro Borovitskaya) offers is acraftbeerplaceandRule Tap feel andtasteofhome.JawsSpot Okhotny Ryad metro) offer both a Pub Albion(Aleksandrovsky Sador or ChistyePrudymetro) andEnglish the If it’s more adrinkyou’re then after Both show live sports. across scene itsthree floors.party metro), hasalatenight whichalso (Ploshchad’ Revolyutsii or Kitay-gorod be enjoyed attheGeorgeBest flavour atmid-rangecan prices underR1000.Asimilaranything with mainsrisingfrom R500to and houses itsown micro brewery, metro) grub cooks style American familiar, But ifyou prefer tostick to the requirements. options whenitcomestodietary food, aswell asusually havingmore andexcellenthigh quality service dining picks BolshoiandSAVVA disheswith some over R2000.Fine (TurgenevskayaBobby Dazzler Favorite (Mayakovskaya

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of getting around,of getting themetro isgenerally By far thefastest andmosteffective way BY METRO returned toaticket clerk. be refunded toyou oncethecard is R35, whilstthecard’s value ofR50will journey onthemetro will costyou most stationsandtransport hubs. A beaddedatfareMoney can terminals, as buses,trams andtrolleybuses. onthemetro, beused can aswell This payment methodfor transit CARDTROIKA delays. warned thatthetraffic long can cause minutes ofyour request. However be but will tendtobewithyou within ten expensive thantheefficient metro, available inMoscow. These are more More andmore taxioperators are TAXI you relative with wishto ease and you seeeverything beableto will expansive andreliable. Soplanwell is public attransport that, a capital However beingsuch alargeand city possible. sizethat issimplynot its Moscow offer has to bybut givenfoot, youIdeally would explore that all Around Getting signage will beinEnglish. It’s but notingthatsome notall worth your browser isdirected to. need toregister through thewebsite Wifi isavailable onthemetro, you just purchased for 30and90dayperiods. seven days be also R800.These can One dayisR210, three days R400and limited by time, but notby journeys. The alternative isaticket thatis around R28 per trip. a full ticket of60journeys equates to reduced ifyou buy more journeys. So journey isR55, however thepriceis one to60onthatticket. Each or have Thisbebetween touse. can a number ofjourneys you wishtomake to buy. The first isto buy aticket with deciding ofticket whichtype you wish of machines oroffices. case Itisthena orcard andbycash usingticket Tickets bepurchased can by either and follow your route whilstonthego. or Android where you viewmaps can bedownloaded forapp can eitheriOS or withinoneofthecentral stations.An Line, theMoscow Central Ring(MCR), would bedoneonKoltsevaya (Ring) expect acouple ofchanges.This districts you are generally to set inside. Ifyou are moving between house mapsofthewholesystem by thelarge ‘M’signsoutside and 150 stations.All beeasilyidentified can and ringsthesystem over comprises Organised by ofradial aseries lines the hours of05:30-01:30. during rushhour. It operates between they dogetextremely busy especially a few minutes for although aservice, You are unlikely tobewaiting more than themostreliable.the cheapestandalso www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 77 Image © CC AKuptsova, Pixabay Moscow Guide 78 Moscow Guide Image © CC Mauro operated by biggerbuses. These only stopatthemajorstopsand are of semi-express bus routes. These Furthermore there are ahandful trolleybuses and oneisatram route. threeto Sheremetyevo are Airport, arethese busesincluding theH1 throughout the night. Sevenof thatrun services there are 11 stretches from 05:00-01:00, whilst The timetablefor such services and60ridesR1150. R1140 40rides number oftrips.20ridesR110, purchasecan aticket withanallotted bought for R55. Orlike themetro you R35, whilstindividual tickets be can Journeys withaTroika Cardwill cost BY BUS, TROLLEYBUS ANDTRAM much ofapurpose nowadays.serving tovisitandridethan and something It isgenerally more ofalandmark the sameticket procedures apply. is included inthemetro system, so There isonlyoneinMoscow andit BY MONORAIL Moscow Guide that isincreasing year onyear. bike anumber laneswithinthecapital, period. There are currently over 40 refunded attheendofyour rental at any rental station,withthedeposit being R400.Bikes bedropped can off account. 24 hours isR150, withaweek online andaddsufficient fundsto your although you must bepre-registered stationsaround service thecapital, Bikes behired can from over 150self- BY BIKE fine ofR300. which any encroachment will landyou a lanes populate many central roads, for forthen bepaying public transport.Bus up spending up moneytopark and available.albeit You often will likely end doesnottendtobecheap,and parking isabigissue in Moscow.Congestion We would notgreatly driving advocate BY CAR hand you afineofR1000.Ouch! barriers, andticket inspectors could throughout, stationsmayhave ticket Make sure you keep hold ofyour ticket increase ondistance. based public fares transport, atR20and start be madeinall theways aswithother suburban destinations.Payment can obviously anduseful for reaching These are more for, well, commuters BY COMMUTER TRAIN download aboxset toyour tablet. at atime, perhapsnottheplaceto so is limited to25 minutes and50people stopshaveSome wifi, ofthis but theuse numbers begin withanine. beidentified can astheir services have brought crowds flocking. from executions tocoronations everything itallhas seen sincethe15thcentury; Revolyutsii metro). Apublic that space notmissRed Squarecan (Ploshchad found your way totheKremlin, thenyou magnificent Kutafya Tower. If you have of thecounty’s powerhouse, including the still offers an iconicvisual andviewpoint However ifyou areoftimeavisit short allowed insidemany areas. visitors incheck.Notethatphotos are not you will notget lostwithpolice keeping buildingsthe further (additional fees), but perhaps even longershould you explore is likely totake atleasthalfadayand witness for can yourself for R350.Avisit 800 years ofpolitical history, whichyou The redhousesover exterior to 1156. ofthebuildingswith some datingback (Aleksandrovsky metro) isamust see, Given itscentral theKremlin location however longyou spendhere. for anactivity,should beshort not unlike citiesyou other may visityou So engage isanendlesslist. with to andattractions marvels architectural masses ofcultural do.The hotspots, to but to, what not Moscow whatto isnot problemplanningtimein The when seeanddo Things to cheap costingup toR1500. (Kuznetsky Mostmetro), although it’s not Yet ifyou Sanduny needadetox try Baths and you must withyou. bringyour passport adults. This must bebooked inadvance R980for 10:00-20:00 withentry between Closed onMondays, onotherdays itopens Tower offers aviewingplatform at340m. Got aheadfor heights? The Ostankino Wednesday andFriday. do operate 12onMonday, justafter tend tosell out inadvance but tours or PloshadRevolutsii metro), tickets Theatre (Ohotnii Ryad, Teatralnaya Again centrally you’ll findtheBolshoi R450. withentry collection ofRussian art, building housestheworld’s biggest Open Tuesday-Sunday 10.30-19:30 the (Tretyakovskaya, metro) isanoption. less favourable theTretyakov Gallery you prefer. Yet iftheweather isalittle relax, completewithhammocks should and placetositback and istheperfect oftheMoscowRiver it sitsonthebank looking for. With cafesandrestaurants, Kultury metro) maybejustwhatyou are Park thenatriptoGorky (Parkstyle But arest ifseeking from thecity’s 24/7 Arbatskaya for metro beused both. can lavish restaurants andnightclubs. The cafes, andthenewhouses thecity’s most The oldprovides vendors andtourist offer acontrast oneanother. between The streets andNewArbat OldArbat centre Moscowhasmuch toitsculture. Away from thearchitecture andhistoric audio guides available for R200. 11:00-17:00,between isR250, entry with andcolours. Opendaily patterns building isa mixtureofwondrous the southern endofRed Square this is St.Basil’s Cathedral. Situatedat Along thelines ofMoscow magnificence www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 79 Image © CC snow-dog, Pixabay Moscow Guide 80 Moscow Guide Image © CC snow-dog, Pixabay can regularlycan getgoodvalue for money. you Although inhandylocations often and don’t offer many extraamenities. rooms bequicklyso snappedup can a night. These tend tobesmall hotels, quality will costup typically toR8000 withabitmoreSomething and privacy offer andcosta few thousand rubles. dorms withlimited private rooms on popping up. It constitute will often accommodation isslowly but surely Despite this,reasonably priced affordable ones. asopposedto hotels helped by dominance ofluxury its not Afactor hithardest. where itwill during World the Cup, but Moscow is Of course apricehike is inevitable many ofcost. comeinterms will accommodation. problem The for of Moscow short acity isnot for bedscould cards beonthe Unlike citieswhereascramble other AccommodationThe Moscow Guide find you’re staying well outside theM25. it’s like bookingahotelin‘London’, onlyto in fact beout oftown. Inlayman’s terms centre. could Ahotelthatmaysay‘Moscow’ be sure tocheckthedistance from the Therefore whenbookingaccommodation of Moscowisnotbeunderestimated. It’s notingthatthesheersize worth before makingabooking. information ontheaccommodation required datesandfindfurther com/en/hotels/. You your select can and www.welcome2018. hotels.fifa.com You searching through try also www. can inMoscow ontheirsystem.properties to have information ofnearly4,000 choices, withtheformer claiming com andexpedia When itcomestosearching booking. the rates more thanreflect that. Of course are these luxury places,but thatwillR8000 tothose make you gulp. Elsewhere itispricesthatrange from Tourist Office should there beanemergency. public transport andeven guidance information onthelikes events, oflocal multilingualcan provide staffwho Information centres should have tourist advicewebsite. www.travel2moscow.com isanofficial • • readily available. free offerings ofmapsandcity guides information centres, standard the with Moscow permanent hastwo travellers Krasnaya Ploshchad3(the GUM) Triumphalnaya Ploshchad are always popular Office hours: Mondayto Friday09:00-17:00 (also for out ofhours emergencies) Telephone number +7495 9567200 121099 Moscow Smolenskaya Naberezhnaya 10 Moscow British Embassy British Consulate orEuros.unless itisUSDollars can prove rubles changeinto to tricky or insidebanks, althoughcurrency currency exchanges nearby are often LikewiseATM machinecapital. inthe You have will noissue findingabankor Money with a capacity of25,000.with acapacity FEST will atVorobyovy belocated Gory, will game.Moscow’s show every FAN Russian nationalteam,while others others will include matchesofthe that are itself, beingplayed inthecity mayonlybeopenforSome matches apply inanother. will that what appliedinonecity usualas the facilities, assume don’t likesthe as offive-a-sidewell pitches from tournamentsponsors, alongwith andinformation food stalls fast with they beequipped and while all will city, fromto city vary will however, for free.sizeandscale of these The onbigscreens, matches the watch gather and to areas allow supporters of Russia 2018 a‘FAN FEST’. These providing aFan Zone, case orinthe to hascommitted city Each host Fan Zone www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup Sat 09:00-18:00 Mon-Fri 08:00-20:00 125009 9, str.5, Tverskaya ul, Moscow, Sun 09:00-14:00 Sat 09:00-18:00 Mon-Fri 08:00-20:00 109012 Moscow, ul, Nikol`skaya 7, Chistye Prudy Open 24 hours, take themetro to Myasnitskaya ul 26, Moscow, 101000 Main Post Office www.366.ru www.366.ru city. allnumber oflocations over the chain36.6hasa Pharmacy +7General tel: 499 764 5002 8, Leninskiy Prospect Pirogov StateHospitalNo.1 General tel:+7 495 6806722 Ploschad Address: 3, B.Sukharevskaya Sklifosofsky Hospital General tel:+7 495 9450045 Proyezd Moscow Address: 5, 2-oy Botkinsky Botkin Hospital +7 495 933-66-55 Spiridon’yevskiy Pereulok, 5 Moscow European MedicalCentre Post Office Hospital: 81 Moscow Guide Title here Title

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82 [email protected] 0800 169 9414 www.theblizzard.co.uk Available inabothdigitalandhard copyformats from writers whoare passionate aboutthestoriesthey wanttotell. writing, featuring around 20articles from theworld’sbestfootball history. Eachissueisaneclecticmixof allthat’s goodaboutfootball range of football-related topicsfrom across theworld, andthroughout Every three monthsweproduce 190+pagesof top ­ -notch writing on a -notch writingona www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 83 Title 84 Rostov-on-Don Guide Image © CC Wikimedia Commons Rostov-on-Don Guide Group Stage (localtime) Fixtures Average June 21°C temperature: Time zone:BST +2hours Population: 1,100,000 VolgaDistrict: District (Group E) Brazil vs Switzerland Match Arabia (Group A) Uruguay vs Saudi Mexico (Group F) Korea Republic vs (Group D) (Group Icelandvs Croatia 20/06 26/06 23/06 17/06 Date Date 18:00 21:00 21:00 21:00 K/O holds, albeit young.holds, albeit cities but isproud ofwhatlegacy it far from oneofRussia’s historic most Foundedindustry. in1749 Rostov is rolenation’s in the an important pipe) around, holds but still dotted monuments (including a water placeunique with a cosmopolitan inSouthern city Russia.largest Itis Rostov-on-Don capital, isthe of the Located around 1000kmsoutheast Round of16 1G vs 2H Match 02/07 Date Date 21:00 K/O Getting there Getting pit-stop by heading those toSochi. tourism andisfrequently asa used south, Rostov isnotrenowned for its the region asgateway tothedeeper inlie. Despiteitssizeandimportance in whichtheWorld Cup stadium will it provides thepicturesque setting where betaken, tripscan boat and The River Donrunsthrough thecity, on your exact destination. 40-60minutes depending between with journeys takinganything Either route city. islessthanR100 ofthe and easternparts northern areas, whilethe286 covers the train stationandthecity’s western The 285downtown, serves the minibus routes. isjusttwo airport As itstandstransit away from the the newairport. which routes will bemaintained at available, but itiscurrently unclear destinations have previously been Samara European Some andSochi. having non-stopconnectionswith runbytypically Aeroflot,as well as Moscow andSaint Petersburg, byis served direct flights from both ahead oftheWorld Cup. The airport the preparations anddevelopment of has beenconstructedaspart and ofthecity 30km northeast islocated 2017. The newairport whichopenedinDecember Airport brand newPlatov International beingreplacedclosed, by the The recently international airport By Air disappointment. to bookearlyinorder toavoid we. So would advise com/free-train visiting matches, but must bereserved by before the to thecity andafter Free trains will berunning also main train station. from plPrivokzalnaya,depart the trains ofalong-distance nature will nineand15hours. Most between ranges from R1200toR2500, taking rising from R2000.Afare toSochi on theroute taken, withfares hours, but could last25 depending mayonlytake to thecapital 16 Services or southonadailybasis. trains, you so headeithernorth can Rostov-on-Don iswell by served daily route. should belessthanR700 for the hours toreach, where aticket fellow takes hostcity around ten another destinationofnote.The fare R1500.Volgograd would be leave onmultiple daily, occasions take upwards of15hours and betakencan toMoscow.These expensive orfully booked, buses If othertransport optionsare too each way. be spending upwards ofR1000 to beexpensive, you could easily Taxis, tend officialorotherwise, www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup By Bus By Train www.tickets.transport2018. 85 Rostov-on-Don Guide 86 Rostov-on-Don Guide Image © CC yuri-samoilov Russia you are less likely encounter to cities in Unlike savvy more tourist Eating andDrinking Prospekt andcross thefootbridge. then needtogetoffat Voroshilovskiy the centre from thestation,you will number 1and4trams runthrough takeof thecity thenumber 516.The the centre, areas whilstfrom northern station tothestadium but notthrough transport. The 39bus runsfrom the but accessibleby isalso public from thecentre across afootbridge, The stadium isaround 15-minutes walk League group stages. featured UEFA inthe Champions recently who there,matches ateam side FC Rostov play will home their 2013. Following tournamentlocal the in having started construction with suspended roof but isall complete stadium’s perimeter, internal andthe Work ongoingaround isstill the localsfor amongst restaurants. and popular spot place tourist Riverof the isatypical Donwhich bank left liesonthe stadium The Rostov Arena -capacity 45,000 StadiumThe Rostov-on-Don Guide are rarely direct. Volgograd where airandtrain links prove handyfor placessuch as due tothelongdistances, but can toorfrom forresort Rostov getting Buses are generally asalast seen Alternatively theAbbeyRoadPubas dishes up German-esque meals. may spotafew ofthem,whilstCheska budget food. Pinta airlive andserve sports-bar/pubs sport and But ifoldhabitsdie hard thenCheshka former agoodoutlet for vegetarians. offer mains for underR200, withthe you are BeliySlonandSmetana after the weekend. Orifit’s Russian cuisine Don’s whichisopenuntil bank 02:00at affordableseafood restaurant onthe expect from Rybaisa alarge city. is still ofcuisineyou thevariety would Despite lackingareal tourist vibethere andopenuntillocated 21:30daily. suggest. ZolotoyKolosiscentrally dinner astheschool bad setup would on themenu, andthefood isnotas Items beidentified can by theirpictures are affordable. available andcertainly eateries classic Russian cafeteria-style If you are keen toavoid hasslethenthe dine. to choosingwhere besharperwhen to soyou restaurants, within need will lack ofEnglishmenus andspeakers However feel sees a lesstouristy this at abnormalpricesinRostov-on-Don. many trapsoraverage tourist food Pinta should dothetrick.The is a chain so youis achainso

from the conductor on thetrain. bepurchasedand can atstationsor dependant onthedistance travelled, the stadium. Fares from R17-R60 vary no stationwithinwalking distance of whilethere iscurrently part, northern accessible withtheexception ofthe is get around. ofthecity The majority youso maywishtohopaboard to when reaching suburban destinations, These and are withinthecity used BY ELECTRIC TRAIN tend tooffer reduced rates oftravel. should you wish toatterminals,these onto beloaded atravelMoney can card and R17onthetrams ortrolleybuses. Fares are R25 for abus ormarshrutka andeasternareas.northern trolleybuses covering thecity’s central, on theright oftheDon,with bank Trams operateneighbourhoods between double thatnumber oftrolleybus lines. thereOtherwise are five tram routes and to travel thewholeofRostov-on-Don. beused imagine methodscan these marshrutka routes, asyou so can hasmoreThe city than100bus and BY BUS, TROLLEYBUS ANDTRAM occupied by commuters. be to citiesonlytend inother which explore, trainsto electric use the Many public visitors other transport. on-Don, but iswell city covered the by inRostov-There isnometro system Around Getting grub ofdrinks. withagoodselection Beatles memorabilia up pub serving you would expectisadornedwith like orthree two buildings piledupon station. The structure essentially looks the mostunusual istheformer river but intermsofarchitecture one of and statuesalongtheEmbankment, You will continue tofindmonuments music andcoloured lights. over 105jetstothetuneofpopular Petrovsky Fountain water from spurts sculptor,is thework alocal andthe Bathing’ was installed in2013and and features The toobserve. ‘Horse is populated withmany sculptures From acultural perspective thearea most popular amongvisitors. Embankment area oneofthecity’s areas besidetheriver, makingthe naturally found attracted tothe itself both commerce andtourism has cities. SituatedontheRiver Don, share acommontrait ofmany host Despite itsdifferences, Rostov does explore. enough to thereisstill match are here for afew days around a ifyouof asimilarsize.Nonetheless places asplentiful other not aswith seeanddobut are options things to different andlessabundant.There are onoffer are cultural attractions citiesthe host counterpart of its Given city’s inferior many the age to seeanddo Things to embankments andaround parks. local pleasant betaken ridescan alongthe up,lanes andspotstopark and Streets areas insome have dedicated within Rostov-on-Don are ontheup. Cycling infrastructure andpossibilities BY BIKE www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 87 Rostov-on-Don Guide 88 Rostov-on-Don Guide Image © CC o.did attention fromattention theoldmarket square, golden domesandbell-tower grab sits centrally, open08:00-19:00. Its ofthe VirginNativity Cathedral Along similarcultural lines the built. isR130. Entry years, longbefore was even thecity coverexhibits theregion’s of1600 past Open Tuesday-Sunday 10:00-17:30 visiting theRegionalworth Museum. more about thearea’s itmaybe past gigantic, but if you wishto discover Russian CivilWar (1917-1923) andis The CivilWar Monument marks the main street Bolshaya Sadovaya. on Pushkinskaya Ulitsa andthecity’s restaurants befrequently can located popular snack.Elsewhere cafes and stalls. Local kebab variations are a to life withlive food music andtasty Meanwhile atnight the area comes and restaurants atthebottom. one anotherandnow housesshops Rostov-on-Don Guide Golden Football ofRostov’. during theWorld Cup called‘The to berunningathematicbus excursion including Reina-Tour NTV, whichclaim but otheroperators frequent thearea food. These are runby Don’s Tours, trips are R550 whichincludes some and visitStarocherkassk, where day Alternatively voyage theRiver Don small funfair. spot tograb acoffee orindulge inthe surroundings. Park Gorky offers aleafy ofrelaxingmay beacase withinthe tourism isyet it so totruly kickstart, But inwhatisacosmopolitan city gold andsilverware. archaeological collection, including lore whichisvisitedfor itsunique andtheregionalart museum oflocal gallery,fine art a ofmodern museum In termsofmuseums, you will finda for ofproduce. itsrichvariety exploring beworth which mayalso which isincluded intheprice. anditis reveredcity for itsbreakfast comewithaviewoftherooms often more hotel.But the thantheairport excess ofR5000, four orfive times the DonPlazawithrooms pricedin Anothercommonchoiceislocation. who speakEnglish initscentral dwelling, itoffers free wifiandstaff the MarinsPark hotel.Apopular Further up thepriceladdercomes hostels withgenerally lower rates. bar, whilstBla Bla, KitandOliver are all complete withanonsiterestaurant and walkhotel ashort from thecathedral, tedious theDon-Kihotisathree star But sounds rather and forth iftheback centre, bereached whichcan by bus. be cheaperthanitscompetitors inthe Hotel.It tendsto stay attheAirport issues visitors to isthatsome choose oftheaccommodation An impact bookinadvance.to found, but asever we would urge you of Mercure andRadisson be canstill chainhotels the river.this the Despite centrallyorby located they are often prove andexpensive, limited although accommodation may options comes to hub,hardly atourist thereforeit when We have is city thatthe established AccommodationThe at theTourist Information Centre. outlining routes these becollected can routes around theareas sights. Leaflets offers also The designatedtourist city centrekart atLemar Track. Kartodrom go- andalocal climbing opportunities activities, such asPlanetawithits Rostov housesvarious also outdoor before makingabooking. information ontheaccommodation your select required dates and findfurther welcome2018.com/en/hotels/. andwww. www.hotels.fifa.com searchingBut through youtry also can Rostov-on-Don ontheirsystem. information in ofnearly600properties choices, withtheformer claimingtohave com andexpedia are always popular When itcomestosearching booking. to public centre. transport andthecity sure inrelation tochecktheirlocation have elaborate interiors, but be also comfortable stay, may even andsome stars will provide astandard and asthreeElsewhere hotelsadvertised www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup Tel: +7 863263-30-90 Rostov-on-Don Prospekt Bogatyanovskiy Spusk, HospitalNo.4Rostov-on-DonCity Tel: +7 863224 7958 Rostov 344015 Address: 170 Blagodatnaya Str., Rostov OblastClinical Hospital Hospital: You can 89 Image © CC strecosa, Pixabay Rostov-on-Don Guide 90 Rostov-on-Don Guide Image © CC 3dman-eu, Pixabay (daily 10:00-21:00) Ulitsa, Park,Gorky Bolshaya Sadovaya Don-Plaza Congress Hotel Rostov MainRailway Station Platov International Airport guides readilycity available. standard free offeringsofmapsand information centres, withthe available attravellersservices Rostov-on-Don hassmaller also +7 (863) 295-0914 +7 (863) 276-7908 344002 Russia 45, B.Sadovaya Str., Rostov-na-Donu, Rostov Region Traveller’s Information Centre ofthe Tourist Office Rostov-on-Don Guide Sun 09:00-14:00 Sat 09:00-18:00 Mon-Fri 08:00-20:00 344007 19, Soborny’j per, Rostiv-on-Don, Sat andSun 09:00—18:00 Mon-Fri 08:00-22:00 Roston-on-Don, 344000 Lermontovskaya116/63, ul, Post Office https://vk.com/tic.rostov

Square, with a capacity of25,000.Square, withacapacity FAN FEST willat Theatre belocated Rostov-on-Don’s will game. show every Russian nationalteam,while others others will include matchesofthe that are itself, beingplayed inthecity mayonlybeopenforSome matches applyinanother. will assume thatwhatappliedinonecity as wellusual asthe facilities, don’t likes the with offive-a-side pitches from tournamentsponsors, along andinformation food stalls fast with theybeequippedand while all will city, fromto city vary will however, for free.sizeandscale ofthese The onbigscreens, matches the watch gatherand to areas allow supporters of Russia 2018a‘FAN FEST’. These providing aFan Zone, case orinthe to hascommitted city Each host Fan Zone page 122. Commonwealth Office information on Foreignplease seethe and For assistance. additional details shouldmatches you needany England before, during andafter available days inthe city inthe Don but berepresentatives there will There isnoembassy inRostov-on- British Consulate should there beanemergency. public transport andeven guidance information onthelikes events, oflocal multilingualcan provide staffwho Information centres should have Kazan Guide Round of16 Group Stage (Local Fixtures Time) 1C vs 2D (Group C) France vs Australia Match B) (Group Iran vs Spain Match Germany (Group F) Korea Republic vs (Group H) Poland vs Colombia 30/06 20/06 24/06 27/06 16/06 Date Date Date 21:00 21:00 13:00 17:00 17:00 K/O K/O is one of the country’s oldest, having country’soldest, is oneofthe innovativethe andever-growing city Republic ofthe Capital ofTatarstan where Europe and Asiatrulyintersect. and markscity point the for many Kazan isranked asRussia’s happiest Quater FinalsQuater Average June 18 temperature: Time zone:BST +2hours Population: 1,200,000 Location: Volga District W53 vs W54 Match www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 06/07 Date Date o C 21:00 K/O 91 Image © CC Wikimedia Commons Kazan Guide Kazan Guide

celebrated its millennium in 2005. To some the muslim capital of Barcelona and destinations in Russia, Kazan is the centre of Tatar Germany. Direct flights are not

Kazan Guide Kazan culture and a city of true diversity. available from the UK. This coexistence of religions is depicted by the glorious cathedral To get to the city from the airport and mosque both housed within there are two options. As with the city. Moscow there is a an Aeroexpress train service, this takes half an hour Home to a number of the nation’s top but leaves at irregular intervals. It universities in recent years Kazan has is often two hours between each gained a reputation as being a capital service and even more infrequent of sport. In 2015 it hosted the FINA during the night. A one way fare is World Aquatics Sports Championship, R200 in standard class. The other before hosting games at 2017’s choice is to take the 197 bus into Confederations Cup, with football team town. These run two or three times Rubin Kazan having lifted the Russian an hour and are operational between Premier League title in 2008 and 2009. 05:00 and 23:00, with the last bus leaving the airport at quarter to ten.

Getting There By Train

By Air Kazan is relatively accessible by train once you are in Russia, with Kazan International Airport is 30km many services passing through south of the city and following its two stations from the east and wide-ranging improvements it is west. The stations are known as regarded as one of the country’s Kazan-1 and Kazan-2, but there best. Flights to the rest of Russia names may appear differently on are typically diverse with over 20 timetables or tickets. 1 is either cities connected by scheduled referred to as Stary Vokzal or services. But we would advise Kazan-Pass, with 2 recognisable booking in advance where on timetables as Vosstanie-Pass. possible. Connections to Moscow Both stations operate suburban and Saint Petersburg are daily and and long distance trains, so be put on by Aeroflot, S7 and UTair in sure to check your ticket. the main. Trains to Moscow take 11-12 hours Common direct international costing around R1500, whilst for a services are far less frequent journey to Saint Petersburg travel than Moscow for example, with time can be comfortably doubled. Istanbul and CIS countries offering To the east Ekaterinburg takes a few links. In the past non-stop approximately 14 hours and will flights have been possible from cost a little under R2500.

92 tournament. Opened in 2013 and used tournament. Opened in2013andused working order ahead summer’s ofthis isready stadium andinfull hearthe to Confederations Cupyou beglad will year’s inlast matches Having hosted Kazan Arena -capacity 45,000 StadiumThe the addedcomfort factor. train travel tosave ontime, with we would recommend usingairor Samara are available. But overall slightly citiesofNizhny closer and andthe tothecapital services of1000km away. Howeverpart surprise withMoscow thebest whichishardlybetween, ahuge areBus services few andfar order toavoid disappointment. we would tobookearlyin advise . So transport2018.com/free-train reserved by visiting www.tickets. the matches,but must be before to thecity andafter Free trains will berunning also By Bus than R100. fayre -mainmealsare less typically Ashkane-chai similar , serving Yorty en route you Kazan maywant totry but across ifnot of these thecity a creamysoup. fish There are four echpekmoks withbullion orukha, up Tatar their cuisine, you try can R50-R200cooksdishes between be found all Bilyarwith over thecity. its diverse flavourscan quiteeasily Nonetheless traditional cuisineand traditional Tatar food. serve proclaimingfood to outlets such kindofindependent asthe fast avoidbut to alsosomeofthose - large city’s eateries, quantityofthe traps’. Baumana houses street a sohaveside ofthis ‘tourist the has increased. However flip onthe number andvariety offood outlets itisnosurprise thatthefor tourists Given risingpopularity the ofKazan Eating andDrinking numbered 33.45, 62and75. number 2and13trolleybus orbuses Arena stop.Otheroptionsare the before disembarking attheKazan Kazan)northern are theroutes totake, central station) or6(runningfrom tram toaccessit.Tram 5(from the Kazanka, withmostvisitors usingthe the stadium lies onthebanks ofthe ofKazan Located inthenortheast events. entertainment as well asitbeingusedfor amixof play homegamesat venue, their the World CupRubin Kazan continue will to designed Wembley the Stadium. After arena’sGames, the also architects for events duringWorld the University www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 93 Image © CC Wikimedia Commons Kazan Guide Kazan Guide

If you are after something more frequent as in Moscow, a wait of five familiar Priyut Kholostyaka and minutes between services would be Art Cafe (06:00 close on Friday considered short.

Kazan Guide Kazan and Saturday) lay on international favourites as well as Russian meals. A single fare is R25 and can be paid At either there really is something for using self-service machines, which for everyone coming in at mid-range do give change. But if you are looking prices up to R500. to make multiple journeys purchasing a smart card or travel card makes trips Alternatively formal settings with finer cheaper the more you pay for. dining are available. Giuseppe is a critically acclaimed Italian close to the BUSES, MARSHRUTKAS, TRAMS AND Kremlin, with a formal mood and dress TROLLEYBUSES code. Or try Dom Tatarskoy Kulinarii, prices are more than double most Buses are responsible for two thirds of places (R1000+) but you can get rare public transport passengers in Kazan, dishes such as horsemeat. largely down to its great coverage, even in less populated areas. Services Otherwise the Central Market and usually begin at 05:00 and end around Bahetle supermarket will sort you out for 21:00 or 22:00, but more travelled snacks, whilst Stolle offers tasty pastries routes run until 23:00. without the pocket pinching prices. Or if it is refreshment you are after Away from bus travel there are ten Maximillian’s Brauerei Kazan is a chain trolleybus and five tram routes across microbrewery complete with dance floor. different areas of the city. Any of these routes, as well as the buses have a fare of R25 which can be paid on Getting Around board if required. All vehicles intercom information is broadcast in Tatar and Russian, and often English, too. As with many large cities Kazan has a sufficient mix of transport options. These COMMUTER TRAINS are generally reliable and punctual covering most of the urban area. Electric commuter trains run from both of the city’s main stations, Kazan-1 BY METRO and Kazan-2. Although largely used by commuters they can prove a handy One single line of 17km working north way of getting around quickly. Some to south makes up the metro system services operate in more central areas and takes 22 minutes from start to and offer a direct route to certain finish. Open between 06:00 and locations that would otherwise require 00:00 the metro is useful to get to two separate buses. the Kazan-2 station or when visiting the Kremlin. This is easily accessed BY BIKE from the Kremlyovskaya metro station, which itself is a 15 minute walk to You can cycle in the bus lanes of the Kazan-1 station. Trains are not as Kazan, and there are a number of

94 differ from many Russian cities given inKazan culturalThe attractions seeanddo Things to UNESCO World HeritageSite. which isa Cathedral andMonastery R100. Visitors flocktotheAssumption journey at16:30.The fare isaround island at08:45 and make thereturn (duration hours) two for thesmall visiting Sviyazhsk. leave Boats daily Many visitors wishtospendaday BY BOAT tocycle. choose be prepared for inclines some ifyou around thecentre andsuburbs -but Bikethe city. hire placesare dotted cycle routes lengthsaround ofvarying a museum (R100), was namedafter The Kul SharifMosque, whichincludes mosque, whichiswithinthegrounds. centres,city Kazan’s sitsadjacent toa other Kremlins thatpopulate Russian 22:00 daily.However inacontrast to sky-blue building atyour leisure until surrounding theimpressive whiteand you are abletoexplore theparks centrepiece. free isoften and Entry But whatdoesnotdiffer isthe Kremlin are present. supporters may which dependingonwhich vary beofferedwill ineight languages, city ofthe tours hassaid committee localtourism chairmanofthe The for onlya handfulofrubles. often and visitors arethese accessible to experiences city the tourism many of population.of their But thanks the to the diverse that they beliefs reflect www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 95 Image © CC amanderson2 Kazan Guide Kazan Guide

the imam who died when defending and rooms ranging between two to six the city from Ivan the Terrible’s army. beds. Next to the Kremlin you will find Completed in 2005 after a ten year Aillin Hostel (R500), although there

Kazan Guide Kazan project the museum supplies booklets is also the more established Hostel explaining the exhibits inside. If this Kremlin close by, with rates of R600 for whets your appetite for more of the a feel of Tatarstan. area’s architecture you may wish to visit the Annunciation and Peter Cathedrals, For more privacy the Milena Hotel and or the Soltanov and Nurullah Mosques. Hotel Shushma offer a quiet and clean stay, with the Kremlin within walking There are a number of museums to distance of both. Note that Milena has complement the religious buildings, such no lift. If fully booked, hotel Volga has as the National Museum of the Republic rooms costing R1500 upwards offering a of Tatarstan (R150) and Soviet Lifestyle welcoming yet tired looking place to stay. Museum (R160), of which the former is closed on Mondays. Alternatively Elsewhere Hotel Giuseppe will give you try the Tatarstan Museum of Natural greater comfort with a homely Italian History, home to a number of exhibitions vibe. Standard rooms will set you back including dinosaurs - entry is R150. between R3000-6000. As perhaps a last resort you could consider the Otherwise be sure to take a walk along Shalyapin Palace Hotel, but as the name Baumana street admiring the various suggests this is luxury and rooms will boutiques and visiting souvenir shops. cost you R7000 on a good day. Still got time to kill? Kazan boasts an impressive Oceanarium and even its When it comes to searching booking. very own circus. com and expedia are always popular choices, with the former claiming to have information of nearly 1,500 Accommodation properties in Kazan on their system.

But you can also try searching through When you consider the growth and www.hotels.fifa.com and www. development of Kazan it should come welcome2018.com/en/hotels/. You can as no great surprise that there is a select your required dates and find further reasonable variety of accommodation information on the accommodation that should suit all budgets, with a before making a booking. reported 14,000 rooms ready. Such development also sees the chains of Ibis, Park Inn and DoubleTree by Hilton all take up residence in the city. Hospital:

Budget accommodation is in supply Republican Clinical Hospital with a number of hostels available 138 Orenburgsky Trakt, Kazan, within Kazan. Bulgaru Hostel offers 420064 beds for around R500 per night and Tel: +7 843 231 2109 free wifi, whilst for the same price Tel: +7 843 231 2090 Oranjin Hostel offers various amenities

96 +7 (843) 231-6798 Ulitsa Pushkina 4,Kazan the KazanTIC) Excursions Centre (additional officeof http://kazantravel.ru/ +7 (843) 292-3010 +7 (843) 292-9777 Ulitsa Kremlyovskaya 15/25, Kazan Kazan Traveller’s Information Centre should there be anemergency. public transport andeven guidance information onthelikes events, oflocal multilingualcan provide staffwho Information centres should have readily available. offerings ofmapsandcity guides free centres, standard the with Kazan hasthree travellers information Tourist Office Sat 09:00-13:00, 14:00-18:00 Mon-Fri 08:00-13:00, 14:00-20:00 +7 843292-81-31 Respublika Tatarstan, Russia, 420111 Kremlyovskaya 8,Kazan, St, Post Office: Center Kazan, with a capacity of25,000.Center Kazan,with acapacity FEST will attheFamily belocated will game.Kazan’s show every FAN Russian nationalteam,while others others will include matchesofthe that are itself, beingplayed inthecity mayonlybeopenforSome matches apply inanother. will that what appliedinonecity usualas the facilities, assume don’t likesthe as offive-a-sidewell pitches from tournamentsponsors, alongwith andinformation food stalls fast with they beequipped and while all will city, fromto city vary will however, for free.sizeandscale of these The onbigscreens, matches the watch gather and to areas allow supporters of Russia 2018 a‘FAN FEST’. These providing aFan Zone, case orinthe to hascommitted city Each host Fan Zone information onpages. Foreign andCommonwealth Office pleaseseethe additional details you needany For assistance. should Englandmatches and after days inthe city in the before, during berepresentativesthere will available There isnoembassy inKazan but British Consulate http://visit-tatarstan.com/ +7 (843) 254-0159 Kazan International Airport Traveller’s Information Desk http://kazantravel.ru/ +7 (927) 033-1133 www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 97 Image © CC Staropramen, Pixabay Kazan Guide 98 Saint Petersburg Guide Image © CC Dennis Jarvis Saint Petersburg Guide Round of16 Group Stage (localtime) Fixtures 1F vs 2E Match D) (Group Nigeria vs Argentina (Group E) Brazil Rica vs Costa (Group A) Russia vs Egypt B) (Group Morocco vs Iran Match 26/06 22/06 03/07 19/06 15/06 Date Date Date 21:00 21:00 15:00 17:00 17:00 K/O K/O Third Place Play-Off Semi Final Average June 15.5°C temperature: Time zone:BST +2hours Population: 5,200,000 Russia Northwest District: L61 vs L62 Match W57 vs W58 Match 10/07 14/07 Date Date Date 21:00 17:00 K/O K/O Russia’s crown. prospered tobeconsidered ajewel in Soviet Union, Saint Petersburg has sincethebreakparticularly up ofthe World War. However recently, and bombingintheSecond well asheavy including Petrograd andLeningrad, as has experiencedmany namechanges, But itwas notalways revered so and thesights.to see hours ofdaylight withtourists flocking days exceedSea, inJune 18 often the Neva River attheedgeofBaltic Peter ItheGreat. Lying onthebanks of until 1703 was founded thatthecity by thousands ofyears, but itwas not intheareaSettlements dateback fiveits annual million visitors. creating viewpoints for picturesque islands comesome800bridges, outwards. channelsand Across its sprawls city from the which site centre isaUNESCO World Heritage own intheir right. The an attraction many with streets architecture, ofits itisaplace richinculturecapital and 700km Nearly second city. from the Petersburg isRussia’s beautiful Although only300years old,Saint Getting There Getting across Europe. Moscowisaround large cities,bothinRussia and tomany has non-stopservices (i.e.wifi throughout)the art and Pulkovocity. isstateof Airport south ofthe islocated airport Saint Petersburg’s onlymajor By Air traffic when departing. traffic whendeparting. to account for theunpredictable least three hours before your flight It at isadvisabletoleave thecity than R40. of theabove should notcostmore 05:50-01:30.minutes Any between 15 andtendstorunevery the city Kostiushko orUlitsa Gastello in the 39bus willyou ferry toUlitsa regular intervals. Alternatively 07:00-23:30 run at very these Moskovskaya. Operating between you tothenearest metro station number 39marshrutka will take are usingpublic transport. The ofbusesifyou itisacase so does notstretch totheairport, Unfortunately themetro system depending ontheexact location. driver, withthefare around R1000 help arrange your withthe location hour traffic. Officialtaxistaff will minutes depending ontherush cities andwill take 30-60 between generally much safer thaninother From ataxiis getting theairport and Milan. includethese Amsterdam, Berlin cities, availabletypically tocapital hours. Elsewhere direct flights are time, andajourney three toSochi Novgorod around double the likes of Kaliningrad andNizhny an hour longflight away, withthe www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup well connectedby train tomost Saint Petersburg isnot only By Train 99 Saint Petersburg Guide 100 Saint Petersburg Guide Image © CC quinntheislander, Pixabay Saint Petersburg Guide order toavoid disappointment. we would tobookearlyin advise . So transport2018.com/free-train reserved by visitingwww.tickets. the matches,but must be before to thecity andafter Free trains will berunning also need atransit VISA. travel through you Belarusso will Eastern Europe, but many trains trains reach destinationsacross .Other a stopatVyborg www.vr.fi under four hours, whichincludes Station andreaches Helsinkiin leaves four timesdailyfrom Finland trains. The most popular train by comfortablelongdistance Elsewhere Europe iswell serviced Novgorod, andVolgograd. Kaliningrad, Ekaterinburg, Nizhny trains daytohostcities every R3500. Inaddition there are direct should nothavemore topay than at R5000, but for classyou second comfort. First classtickets begin degree with avarying ofclassand overnight tothecapital departures Station. There are ten typically also daily from thecity’s Moscow atleastsixtimes depart these when usingtheSapsanservice, infouraccessed andahalfhours be During thedayMoscowcan advance where possible. recommended bookingin However asalways we would centres andticket machines. buy ticketscan from service wherestations inthecity you There are ahandful ofmajor inEurope. tolocations services of Russia, but hasmany quick The StadiumThe The venue The the all isequippedwith final oflast year’sConfederations Cup. and openingmatch the both hosted maysomeasit stadium befamiliarto Located onKrestovsky Islandthe 64,000 Saint Petersburg Stadium -capacity and Ecolines. are mainlyoperated by Lux Express (R1900, sevenhours). Such routes Riga (R1400, ninehours) andTallinn aslong.Daily busesrunto twice the train, buttake these atleast fraction ofwhatyou would on pay destination andticket pricesare a and routes. Helsinkiisapopular includingwww.avokzal.ru timetables station andhasahandywebsite whichisthemainbus Avtovokzal Buses from usually depart and quicker modeoftransit. train asamore isseen pleasurable international bus routes, but the Petersburg iswell connected on Saint Given itssizeandimportance By Bus So watchSo thisspace. footbridge from District. thePrimorsky Krestovsky Island, alongwitha the tournament whichwill beon station isscheduled toopenbefore The Novokrestovskaya Metro of halfanhour walk from theground. through thecentre but is the bestpart Ostrov. This isonline 5whichpasses The metro closest stopisKrestovsky centre areas andnorthern respectively. with theirroutes runningthrough the stop15-minutes walkservices away, or themetro. The number 10or25 bus centre andisaccessibleby eitherbus The arena isover 7kmfrom thecity UEFA CupWinners. Zenitto Saint Petersburg 2008 the was demolishedin2006,andishome Kirov ofthe site on the Stadium which sits stadium a mere The 15minutes. roofclosesin which and retractable additional facilities ofaslidingpitch modernfeatures,expected but hasthe bites withtheoption for takeaway or as well lunch astheothertypical Vino offers freshsoups, saladsand and maywishtotopup thetank.Soup yourself exploringthehistoriccentre Nonetheless you are likely tofind finer the cuisine at a price. budget indulge in give to you opportunity the These offer some eateries lunch-deals. areas orsuburbs, in quieter although Like any pricescandrop majorcity it isnow renowned quality. for its cheap particularly not still but whilst highprices, its with been associated Dining inSaint Petersburg hasoften Eating andDrinking and EasternEurope. hard totrack down outside of Russia around, offood anothertype thatis Georgian restaurants are dotted In addition slightly more expensive with many insidetheSennoyMarket . Locations are tucked often away, and readily available withmealsR250. Uzbek andTajik cheap food isvery otheruniquehouses some dishes. move for also Russian cuisinethecity Moreover whilst you won’t beableto amongst international favourites. restaurants thelikes serving ofItalian as well asaplethora ofmid-range fast food outlets native andsome ones, dinner time.You will findall the global to bespoilt for choicewhenitcomesto Other thanthatyou are honestlygoing frequented by locals. betourist traps can these andnever a menu including but bearmeat, Elsewhere restaurants mayadvertise meals andvodka shotsifyou fancy. being yet anotherexample ofhearty with NaZdorovye!(Sportivnaya metro) availablefood across isfurther thecity, cost over R2000.Such high-standard becheaper,can though dishes can menusand doeshave set which some will feed you up onaflavour of France (AdmiralteyskayaPetersburg metro) match are ontheradar. MiXinSaint prices to mealswiththehefty hefty Of course itisnotall snacks and common atpricesthatare affordable. food theme outlets withaJapanese Similarly you will findmany street distance Prospekt oftheNevsky metro. from R300-R400andare inwalking from.to choose Mealsatbothrange polish serve dishes ofself selection which isopen09:00-18:00 hasa there isMarketplace.The canteen www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 101 Saint Petersburg Guide 102 Saint Petersburg Guide Image © CC ninara placed for certain locations. A placed for certain metro may the beidealorbest not however asalready highlighted travelto around Saint Petersburg, There are anumber ofdifferent ways Around Getting Prospekt metro. until 06:00andlie totheNevsky close and GolubayaUstritsaare clubs open TheCentralStation lesbian scene. hasagrowingThe city gayand has staffwhospeakEnglish. Prospekt metro) isopen24-hours and usual, whilsttheTowerPub(Nevsky metro) will give many apint of their Dickens Pub(Sennaya Ploshchad Dumskaya ul andul Lomonosova. at largest islocated drinkingscene accommodate you -andthecity’s even restaurants will beableto off abeerorsippingoncocktail achieving either.Whetherit’s seeing few drinks you will have nodifficulty somewhere toenjoy thenight ora However ifyou are justlookingfor Saint Petersburg Guide Stops are marked by an‘A’ for buses, find themuseful if you are uptown. Trams are lesscommonbut you may afield such astothe airport. go further within theinnercity, whilstbuses also oftrolleybusThe majority routes are TROLLEYBUSES BUSES, MARSHRUTKAS, TRAMS AND displayed. identifiable ‘M’by thelarge letter A single fare isR45, withany station have inEnglish. signagethatisalso stations mapsandsome certain in Russian, but you mayfindthat Announcements are onlymade are steep! descents totheunderground stations neighbourhoods. Bewarned, the OperaCathedral andMariinsky Petersburg, from theSmolny apart well aslandmarks throughout Saint it isusefultoreach thesuburbs as up of67 stationsacross five lines 05:30 and01:00.Maderuns between effective andpopular system than drawbacksDespite some itisan BY METRO maximum fare ofR31. above groundR36 andanything hasa travel card ametro ridewill costyou than individual tickets. Whenusinga andgenerallythe city offer better rates offices insidemetro stations around bepurchasedThese can from ticket TRAVEL CARDS should job. dothe variousthe bus andtramroutes always metro isnot the while ideal But beingcentrally located. stations principle that iscontinued few with paying aroundpaying R30perkilometre. safe. Youis notvery will belookingat or calling ataxi, as hailing onedown yellow We exterior. would booking advise by itschequered signontheroof and isidentifiable inSaintA cab Petersburg BY TAXI a return ticket. hour you will make abigsavingbuying 40-minute trip.Leaving halfan every speeds ofup to70km/hr onthe the HermitagetoPeterhof andreaches hydrofoil runsonthetourist route from alternative modeoftransit. The offersThe city The Meteorasan BY BOAT day will bearound R130. pre-registered one.Hire touse for a deposited inanother, but you must be bepickedcan up and inonelocation Velogorod. Like ‘Boris Bikes’ these which ismostcommonlydonethrough Bikes be hired can all over thecity, BY BIKE midnight andare reliable. very the suburbs. rununtil These services transport youdistances andinto short The city’s electriccommuter trains can COMMUTER TRAINS around R45. where theydon’t operate, withafare down anywhere except pr onNevsky the marshrutkas. behailed These can The otheroptionistoboard oneof travel card. The fare onany isR40, unlessusinga willa ‘T’ hangfrom thewires above. an ‘m’ for trolleybuses andfor trams of the city for prepared those of thecity toclimb skyline, provides italso asuperb view dome. AniconoftheSaint Petersburg Ploshchad metro), withitsgolden is StIsaac’s Cathedral (Isaakievskaya 18:00. But perhaps even more lavish is openThursday toTuesday, 10:30- 1997. beup can toR400andit Entry and onlyreopened tothepublic in Worldunder siegeintheSecond War to store was potatoeswhenthecity to completethebuilding was used Prospekt metro). Having taken 24 years Church onSpilled Blood (Nevsky exuberant would bethe18thcentury throughout Oneofthemost the city. equally illustrious works ofarchitecture But isjustoneof many thepalace Winter Palace. and Picasso, thepickofwhichis house thework ofLeonardo daVinci you maywishtoviewthebuildings that showing ID.But aswell asthemuseum isR400,Entry withstudents free when Wednesdays at21:00. whenitcloses from 10:30-18:00 everyday, except rooms. Closed onMondays itisopen across thethree hundred something more thanthree million are displayed fromitems chosen acollection of (Admiralteyskaya metro), where attraction istheHermitageMuseum Arguably thecity’s primary exploration inthemselves. -an waterways its mazedbetween all buildings andworld famous museums combination ofmarvellous stunning isa city The ofone another. distance even meanssomeare walking within centrally.This are situated for visitors of Saint Petersburg’s key attractions majorcitiesalot other to In contrast seeanddo Things to www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 103 Saint Petersburg Guide Saint Petersburg Guide

its 262 steps. Entry is R250 with the there are a number of hostels. These same opening hours the as the Church offer cheaper rates and may be ideal if on Spilled Blood. you happen to be in a larger group.

No trip would be complete without When it comes to searching booking. spending time on the Nevsky Prospekt. com and expedia are always popular A four-mile long street it hosts countless choices, with the former claiming eateries, shops and further sights to have information of over 7,000

Saint Petersburg Guide including the Cathedral of Our Lady properties in Saint Petersburg on of Kazan. The hub of the city’s social their system. life, it is an area immersed in culture. Of the city’s islands Vasilevskiy But you can also try searching through (Vasileostrovskaya) is the biggest. www.hotels.fifa.com and www. Hosting a mix of monuments and welcome2018.com/en/hotels/ . You can museums it is also a good spot to bask select your required dates and find further in the summer sun beside the Neva river. information on the accommodation before making a booking. If you are looking for something more relaxing then sightseeing tours are readily available along the canals, or in Hospital: the evening visit the Mariinsky Theatre and enjoy the ballet or opera. American Medical Clinic nab reki Moyki 78, St Petersburg, Accommodation Russia, 190000 Tel: +7 812-740 2090

There should be plenty of EuroMed accommodation to go round in Saint 60 Suvorovsky Pr, St Petersburg, Petersburg, which is what you would 191124 expect from a city with such a large Tel: +7 812 3270301 tourist industry. If you are after the familiar then you will find dwellings Medem International Clinic and from the chains of Ibis, Marriott and Hospital Park Inn across the area. ul Marata 6, St Petersburg, Russia, 191025 However the main issue will come in +Tel: 7 812-336 3333 terms of affordability. A lot of places are expensive considering what you get in return for your many rubles. There is also a shortage of mid-range Post Office: hotels, so you may have to shop around and book in advance where possible to get a good deal. Pochtamtskaya ul 9, St Petersburg, Russia, 190000 That said given its size and popularity Open 24/7 amongst various different travellers

104 Tourist Office +7 8123203200 Proletarskoy Diktatury, 5) Russia Ul. Lafonskaya, 5(formerly Pl. Saint191124 Petersburg Friday 09:00-17:00. Petersburg, isopen Monday this - inSaintThere isaBritishConsulate British Consulate Mon-Sat 10:00-19:00 +7 (812) 242-39-09 Russia Sadovaya14/52 ul, Saint Petersburg, should there be anemergency. public transport andeven guidance information onthelikes events, oflocal multilingualcan provide staffwho Information centres should have Isaakievskaya plandatairport. the kiosksother at Hermitage, plVosstaniya, readily available. Thereare alsothree free offerings ofmapsandcity guides information centres,standard the with Saint Petersburg hasmany travellers with a capacity of15,000.with acapacity will atKonyushennaya belocated Square, game.Saint Petersburg’severy FAN FEST national team,whileothers will show will include matchesoftheRussian are itself, beingplayed inthecity others mayonlybeopenforSome matchesthat applyinanother. will applied inonecity facilities, assume don’t thatwhat aswellusual asthe a-side pitches likes the sponsors, alongwith offive- andinformation from tournament stalls food fast they beequippedwith all will city,from to city however, andwhile vary will sizeandscaleofthese The onbigscreens, for matches free. the gather andwatch to allow supporters Russia 2018 a ‘FAN FEST’. areas These providing aFan Zone, caseof orinthe to hascommitted city Each host Fan Zone information onpages. Foreign andCommonwealth Office additional the see detailsplease should you needany assistance.For during any England andafter matches inthedaysavailable before, inthecity There will berepresentatives bealso www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 105 Image © CC ninara Saint Petersburg Guide 106 Samara Guide Image © CC Wikimedia Commons Samara Guide Quater FinalQuater Round of16 Group Stage(localtime) Fixtures W55 vs W56 Match 1E vs 2F Match (Group A) Uruguay vs Russia (Group C) Denmark vs Australia (Group E) vs Serbia Rica Costa Match (Group H) vsSenegal Colombia 28/06 02/07 25/06 07/07 21/06 17/06 Date Date Date Date 18:00 18:00 18:00 19:00 18:00 16:00 K/O K/O K/O economic hub began. the development ofwhatisnow an to outsiders grew asits industry and the now remained pleasant city closed fallen during World War II.Post-war in Samara shouldhave thecapital core. Stalin even hadabunker built Moscow due toitsstrong economic was outlined asthereplacement for ninedistrictsComprising thecity and exhibitionthis. centreto dedicated programme, marked by museum its rolea substantial inRussia’s space War andisrecognised ashaving played pointcountry’sCivil ofthe starting the inRussia. city largest Samaramarks SamaraRegionof the sixth andisthe Volgathe river, capital Samaraisthe overlooking in1586asafortress Born Average June 19°C temperature: Time zone:BST +3 hours Population: 1,100,000 VolgaDistrict: District Getting There Getting the train orbus aviablealternative. prove outlay with anunnecessary Howeveror so. for many thiswill quickest clockinginat40minutes around R1000, but isusually the a taxiisthemostexpensive, in three different forms. Ofcourse Transport comes from theairport direct from theUK. services from Frankfurt, but there are no The mostcommonroute would be youadvise bookthisinadvance. outside Russia we would strongly are planningtofly directly from ifyou hitandmiss,so particularly Further afield direct flights are Ekaterinburg.city a regular withotherhost service more limited, withtheexception of other majorRussian citiesare far and UTair. Non-stopflights to operatedtypically by S7, Aeroflot as Saint Petersburg, are these are available toMoscow aswell Many dailyconnections Airport. Samara’s Kurumoch International is Around ofthecity 35kmnorth By Air from R25 toR60. route theyrecommend. Fares vary with your accommodation what is always double worth checking so it toaspecificlocation, getting These mayprove more usefulfor to thetown andrailway station. 406, peoplefrom ferry theairport along withMarshrutkas 392 and Additionally buses78 and652, scheduled departure. 30-minutes before thetrain’s and will leave theterminalaround included inthecostofyour ticket Aeroexpress platform. This bus is take you tothe from theairport into thecentre bus will ashuttle fare R150for adults. Whenheading minutes including 6stops,witha The journey takes onehour and20 at13:03from and18:30. theairport station at08:56and15:40, and in eachdirection. It leaves thetrain The Aeroexpress aday runstwice www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup will take 17hours. train, thefare isaround R1700 and accessibleby is anotherhostcity takeand can 24 hours. Volgograd tends torunonalternate days route toSaint Petersburg. This under R5000.There adirect isalso train, but thiswill costyou just The quickest istheZhiguli service durations 14-20hours. between withtheir of dailydepartures Moscow there are anumber trains through pass For thecity. youjunction, so will findmany Samara sitsonaprominent rail By Train 107 Image © CC Wikimedia Commons Samara Guide Samara Guide

The arena’s design is dedicated to Free trains will also be running the city’s aerospace heritage and is to the city before and after situated within Samara’s Radiotsentr the matches, but must be district. Post-tournament the Samara Guide reserved by visiting www.tickets. stadium will become the home of FC transport2018.com/free-train. So Krylya Sovetov. we would advise to book early in order to avoid disappointment. At the time of writing there are no public transport links within the vicinity of the arena, with some of the closest stops at least a 20-minute hike away. By Bus However it is expected this will be rectified in some format ahead of the Unlike many of the other host tournament, which is a relief given its cities a number of bus connections location out of the centre. actually prove more efficient between Samara and certain destinations. Perhaps the most Eating and Drinking popular is the nine hour service to Kazan, leaving three times a day. The fare is R750. Other Samara is yet to really catch the notable connections are to Nizhny tourism bug, a factor that is reflected Novgorod and Moscow. in its dining options. Choice is nowhere near as diverse as some cities, but prices are often lower making eating out and having a few By Boat drinks far more affordable. Saying this, even the fussiest of eaters will You can take a cruise to fellow no doubt still be able to navigate their host cities Kazan (from R7300) and way to a fast food jaunt. Volgograd (from R11,300), but these voyages will take three and five Zhili-Byli is open until midnight daily days respectively. and offers hearty good value Russian meals for around R250. That is a chain restaurant, but if you after something a bit more personal Kipyatok offers The Stadium that. The eatery serves up traditional national fayre, as well as some more experimental dishes from around Samara Arena - capacity 45,000 R300. Be sure to wash it down with a cranberry mors. The building work began in July 2014 and as of December Elsewhere the cosy Perchini Grill & 2017 the stadium’s roof was still Wine cooks up European favourites under construction, however the including vegetarian options, but you installation of the pitch and internal may prefer somewhere with a bit more decorations were well underway. life. If so for similar rates (R800) Kon

108 cheese andveg.cheese when itcomestofresh fish,meat, the week you will bespoilt for choice the Troitsky Market. of Openeveryday Self-caterers maybeinclined tovisit range ofDJ’s. late onFriday andSaturday’s witha night Skvoznyakisopenfrom 19:00- restaurant. Ifyou are lookingfor alively pub abroad, isinfact anupmarket despite itsnamesuggesting English you going.WhilstChurchill’sBar, drinks andkitchenclassicstokeep of Irish Pubwithagoodselection There isofcourse thetoken Shannon but morethe tasty simpledishes. crowd pleasers andpricesthatreflect is aGermanrestaurant withmeaty dance ontheupper floor.FrauMuller androom bar to complete withwhisky v Paltoisarenowned grill restaurant, these, itismore convenient and saves Many travellers prefer usingoneof UNIVERSAL TRAVEL CARD Around Getting except they theyare notavailable inthe areas, whilstthetrams doasimilarjob, throughout Buses cover thecity. all and 15trolleybus routes thatrun complemented by the24 tram routes inSamara bus network whichisalso There comprehensive isapretty BY BUS, TROLLEYBUS ANDTRAM you R25. A single rideonthemetro will cost 37 and67 togetthestation. trolleybuses 17and20, 12, orbuses1, go toMoskovskaya andtake either 25 toreach. Alternatively you can which thenrequires bus 50ortram the railway stationisAlabinskaya, to with tenstations,theclosest district. Madeup ofasingle line areas intheindustrial tothose across downtown from thewaterfront Samara’s metro runswest toeast BY METRO from ticket officesandpostoffices. trolleybuses bepurchased andcan valid onthemetro, buses,trams and fare onpublic transport R23. These are money. The card costsR100, witheach www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 109 Image © CC aleksandr zykov Samara Guide 110 Samara Guide Image © CC alexxx malev Botanical Gardens.Botanical including theVolga embankment and are lovely some spotstoridealong, Despite thisifyou dohire onethere andbikecity rental placesare limited. Cycling infrastructure issmall inthe BY BIKE stations. Alabinskaya andMoskovskaya metro oldtown, thisis3kmfromhistorical the The mainrailway stationisinthe on thedistance covered. ranging R20-R60depending between the easternsideofcity, withfares generally tosouth on runfrom north Samara andcover thesuburbs. Routes themorebetween remote of sections These train are services idealfor travel BY ELECTRIC TRAIN as Google MapsandYandex Maps. journeys usually possibleonappssuch A fare will costyou R25, withplanningof in theKrasnoglinskiy District. Likewise trolleybuses onlydon’t operate andsoutherndistricts. most northern Samara Guide entry fees.entry Inreality you needtobe popular despiteitshighwhich isvery comes intheshapeofStalin’s Bunker, If your interest your ishistorical, outlet depending present. ontheexhibits hours alter alongwithadmissionprices ru/4visitors beforehand, as opening their website www.samaracosmos. aerospace make industry sure you visit of the region’s thehistory Charting Samara. Cosmic Museum the Municipal then itwould totake bewise atripto If thatwhetsyour appetitefor museums onMondays.closed 18:00 and20:00onTuesdays itis costing R100toexplore. Open10:00- palaeontology andarchaeologylocal on natural history, on withexhibits The isSamara’s AlabinMuseum take city’s museums thattake your fancy. But rather thangalleries itmaybethe 17:00, isR100. entry displayed. 09:00- Opendailybetween where work produced by children is housed attheChildren’s museum Art Adifferent take is R110. onart attractionwithadmission important it isregarded asthecity’s most Home tomany collections andexhibits 18:00 anduntil 20:00onWednesdays. day except Tuesday 10:00- between The isopenevery Samara Museum Art should football fill the your time. food,sightseeing, drinkandofcourse other combinedwith which visit, to places there are ahandfulofnotable ifyoumonths. Nonetheless visitSamara seeanddo, evento duringsummer the numerous populatedwith is not things Samara oftourism Without arichhistory seeanddo Things to about local teamKrylya Sovetov.about local Admission isR100, withmany exhibits ofitskindinRussia.Museum Samara ishome totheonlyFootball nearby selling otherfresh delights. of thekiosks andexplore thestalls be for you. Indulge inatipplefrom one more relaxing theZhiguli Brewery may you are justlookingfor something However or iftimeisoftheessence mates andrubles togetherfor thisone. tour company toenter, pull so your with atour guide from aregistered has acentral location. undergone recent restoration work and Azimut isaround R2500, ithasalso Whilst the night, but isdatedinparts. ranging R3000-R4000a between Elsewhere theVolga Hotelhasrooms lockerstowels, andsecurity available. complimentary breakfast, free wifiand rooms. It doesthough offer a different dormsizes, but noprivate dwellings and hasanumber of Nice Hostelisoneofthecheapest The booking inadvance isadvisory. is few asalways so andfar between, As aresult budget accommodation around Samara. Inn dotted here, likes the with ofIbisandHoliday havecities chainhotels found way their premium prices.However most aswith beinhighdemandandcomingat to accommodation around islikely city the condensed periodoftime.Therefore across ayear, a alonewithin let welcoming hoards ofvisitors to accustomed isnot city The AccommodationThe before making abooking. information ontheaccommodation your select required datesandfindfurther welcome2018.com/en/hotels/. You can andwww. www.hotels.fifa.com searchingBut through you try also can inSamaraproperties ontheirsystem. to have information ofnearly300 choices, withtheformer claiming com andexpedia are always popular When itcomestosearching booking. rooms without abathroom from R500. less fussytheBristol-Zhiguli Hotelhas a goodrestaurant onsite.But ifyou are R8000, withanimpressive decorand Europe withrooms pricedup to youOtherwise mayoptfor Hotel multilingualcan provide staffwho Information centres should have guides readily available. free offerings ofmapsandcity information centre, standard the with Samara hasonetravellers Tourist Office www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 111 Image © CC Wikimedia Commons Samara Guide 112 Samara Guide Image © CC evgeni the matches onbigscreens, for matches free. the gather andwatch to allow supporters Russia 2018a‘FAN FEST’. areas These providing aFan Zone, caseof orinthe to hascommitted city Each host Fan Zone information onpage 122. Foreign and Commonwealth Office pleaseseethe additional details should you needany For assistance. any Englandmatches and after days inthe city in the before, during berepresentativesthere will available There isnoembassy inSamarabut British Consulate andmaintrainat theairport station. There are 24 also hour information booths http://tic-samara.ru/ +7 (846) 207-0739 +7 (846) 207-0738 443010 Ulitsa Frunze 140, 1stfloor, Samara, Samara Region Traveller’s Information Centre ofthe should there beanemergency. public transport andeven guidance information onthelikes events, oflocal Samara Guide Square, with a capacity of31,000.Square, withacapacity FEST will atKuibyshev belocated will game.Samara’s show every FAN Russian nationalteam,whileothers others will include matchesofthe that are itself, beingplayed inthecity mayonlybeopenforSome matches applyinanother. will applied inonecity facilities, assume don’t thatwhat aswellusual asthe a-side pitches likes the sponsors, alongwith offive- andinformation from tournament stalls food fast they beequippedwith all will city,from to city however, andwhile vary will sizeandscaleofthese The Tel: +7 8469561260 443095 159 Tashkentskaya Str, Samara, the nameofSeredavin Samara Oblast Clinical Hospitalin 09:00-17:00, Saturday 09:00-17:00 Thursday, 09:00-17:00, Wednesday Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Russia, ul Galaktionovskaya, Samara, Sberbank Sat-Sun 09:00-18:00 Mon-Fri 08:00-22:00 443099 24, Leningradskaya ul, Samara, Post Office: Hospital: Bank: UEFA Rules

UEFA’s standard stadium rules apply across all Euro

2016 venues. The list of prohibited items is pretty Rules UEFA much identical to previous major tournaments, although ‘any flying objects and drones’ are now included. Smoking is prohibited in all stadiums. NO SMOKING rod s

Bottles, cups, jugs, cans, Umbrellas Laser pointers objects made from PET, glass

Alcoholic drinks, drugs, stimulants Politicial, religious, Pyrotechnics or psychotropic substances propaganda materials

Flagize max. 2.0m x 1.5m No drones Professional cameras, Flagstaff max. 1m and 1cm video cameras

Weapons, explosives, knives, Promotional or commercial anything that could be adapted objects or materials Aerosol sprays for use as a weapon

Unwieldy items, large bags, etc Paper rolls, Mechanical or electronic devices 25x25x25 cm large quantities of paper such as megaphone, vuvuzelas

www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 113 The Road to Russia

Slovenia only to be held in a 0-0 draw in Gareth Southgate’s second game as England Manager.

On November 11 2016 England romped to a 3-0 win over local

The Road to Russia rivals Scotland at Wembley Stadium. Scotland bought over 10,000 travelling fans with them; the atmosphere inside the stadium was arguably one of the loudest heard for an England game. Goals from Daniel Sturridge, Adam Lallana and Gary Cahill capped an enjoyable night for England fans.

March 2017 saw England beat Lithuania 2-0 with goals from Jamie Vardy and Jermain Defoe. The game will be best remembered amongst supporters as the night six year old Bradley Lowery led the team out alongside his hero Defoe.

Onto June 2017 and the Scotland away fixture at Hampden Park bore witness to a thrilling draw between the two neighbouring nations. Alex England’s 2018 World Cup Oxlade-Chamberlain was the first qualification group consisted of 6 to score for England before two teams – England, Slovakia, Scotland, great free-kicks from Leigh Griffiths Slovenia, Malta and Lithuania. gifted Scotland the lead in a close encounter. In the 93rd minute Harry England’s first qualifying match was Kane drilled in a right-footed equaliser against Slovakia in Trnava which to earn England a point. resulted in a 1-0 win with the only goal of the game coming from Adam Travel Club members had an enjoyable Lallana in the 95th minute. The game is trip to the sunny island of Malta on most memorable for England fans as September 1 2017 to watch England it was Sam Allardyce’s only match as beat the Maltese 4-0. Two goals from England manager. Harry Kane and one a piece from Ryan Bertrand and Danny Welbeck helped Next up, England comfortably beat maintain England’s lead at the top of Malta at Wembley Stadium on October qualifying group. Three days later, in 8 2016 in a 2-0 win with goals from a much colder and wetter Wembley Daniel Sturridge and Dele Alli. Three Stadium, England beat Slovakia 2-1. days later, the Three Lions travelled to Lobotka scored first for the visitors in

114 what was a difficult first 30 minutes hand in the 94th minute to secure the for Gareth Southgate’s team before three points and England’s place at the Eric Dier equalised before half-time. 2018 FIFA World Cup in Russia. Marcus Rashford sealed the three points on the 59th minute but the The free ponchos provided at Three Lions didn’t secure qualification England’s final qualifier in Vilnius

to the World Cup until October 5 were definitely needed as Travel Club The Road to Russia against Slovenia. fans endured a very wet 90 minutes of football against Lithuania. Harry In a game that will predominantly be Kane’s penalty on the 27th minute was remembered for paper aeroplanes, enough to seal the three points and England struggled to take off (excuse ensure that the Three Lions remained the pun) against a sturdy Slovenian undefeated in their World Cup team. Fortunately Harry Kane was on qualifying campaign.

Match Schedule for England (Group G)

Match Date K/O Host City Tunisia vs England 18/06 7pm (GMT) 9pm (local time) Volgorad England vs Panama 24/06 1 pm (GMT) 3pm (local time) Nizhny Novgorod England vs Belgium 28/06 7pm (GMT) 8pm (local time) Kaliningrad

Nations since 1992 but haven’t been The Opposition past the quarter-finals since their sole victory in the competition, on home soil in 2004. They haven’t won a World Cup match since being the first African nation to win a game at the tournament, beating Mexico in 1978.

How did they qualify? Tunisia finished their group unbeaten and sealed qualification by beating their closest rivals Guinea 4-1, Youssef Msakni scoring a hat-trick in a superb counter-attacking display.

TUNISIA Star player? Other than Msakni, the highest-profile Who are they? player is probably Wahbi Khazri, now on This will be a fifth World Cup for the loan at Rennes from Sunderland where Carthage Eagles, who have been a he was a key part of Sunderland’s consistent force in African football successful fight against relegation for quarter of a century. They haven’t under Sam Allardyce, scoring a missed the final stages of a Cup of memorable volley against Chelsea. Image © CC www_slon_pics, Pixabay

www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 115 The Road to Russia

Previous encounters? BELGIUM England has faced Tunisia twice before, drawing 1-1 in a friendly in Tunis Who are they? before the 1990 World Cup and then This may be the most gifted beating then 2-0 in Marseille in the generation in Belgium’s history but as 1998 World Cup, Alan Shearer and Paul time goes by the pressure for them

The Road to Russia Scholes getting the goals. to deliver on their talent is beginning to grow. Belgium were one of the PANAMA few European sides to make the trip across the Atlantic for the first World Who are they? Cup, in Uruguay in 1930, but their This is Panama’s first World Cup best performance came in 1986 when qualification but there has been a they were beaten by Argentina in the sense that this has been coming. Four semi-final. They got to the final of the years ago, they needed to win their final 1980 European Championship. Concacaf qualifier to set up a play-off against New Zealand. Heading into How did they qualify? injury-time, they led USA 2-1 but then Other than the hosts, Russia, Belgium conceded twice to miss out as Mexico were the first European side to took the play-off slot instead. Panama qualify for this summer’s finals, have twice finished as runners up in the finishing top of their group, winning Concacaf Gold Cup, in 2005 and 2013. nine and drawing one of their 10 games, racking up a goal-difference How did they qualify? of +37 as they did so. Going into their final qualifier, Panama seemed to have little hope of Star player? qualifying automatically, but as they Kevin De Bruyne has perhaps had beat Costa Rica 2-1 thanks to Roman the better season domestically, Torres’s 88th-minute winner, the USA but Belgium’s main creative force lost in Trinidad & Tobago, meaning remains Eden Hazard. The Chelsea Panama had qualified automatically, forward is Belgium’s captain now despite winning only three of their 10 and, other than Romelu Lukaku, the qualifiers in the final group. leading scorer in the present squad with 21 international goals. Star player? The veteran striker Blaz Perez has Previous encounters? been a consistent presence at the England has met Belgium 21 times front of the Panama attack since before, winning 15 and drawing five, making his international debut in 2001. most famously at the 1990 World With 43 international goals he is the Cup when David Platt’s volley in the joint top-scorer in Panama’s history final minute of extra-time secured along with his team-mate Luis Tejada. England’s progress to the quarter- final. They drew 4-4 at the 1954 Previous encounters? World Cup, a Jimmy Dickinson own- England has never played Panama goal giving Belgium a point, and 1-1 before so this fixture is the first time at the 1980 European Championship they will meet. in Turin.

116 The Road to Russia

England’s World Cup History World Cup Finals: 14

World Cup qualifying campaigns: 16 England did not enter a World Cup competition until 1950 but since First World Cup: 1950 then has entered 17 subsequent tournaments. The Three Lions have Most recent World Cup: 2014 failed to qualify for a World Cup tournament on three occasions – 1974 Best performance: 1966 – Winners (West Germany), 1978 (Argentina) and 1994 (USA). Statistically England’s worst Semi-final appearances:2 – 1966 performance was in 2014 where the & 1990 Three Lions ended with just a single point after losses against Uruguay and Most World Cup goals: Gary Lineker Italy and a goalless draw against Costa – 10 goals Rica. Their best ever performance was of course in 1966 when England won Most World Cup appearances: the tournament (and on home soil!) Bobby Charlton – 4 – 1958, 1962, but their next best performance was in 1966 and 1970. 1990 reaching the semi-finals in Italy.

Did you know?

• Belgium’s nickname is the ‘Red Devils’ (easy to remember for Romelu Lukaku). • Tunisia’s one and only victory in their World Cup history came in 1978 against Mexico. • England has lost just once in 21 meetings with Belgium – their first win being in 1936. • Panama’s coach Hernan Dario Gomez is nicknamed ‘The Truncheon’ (El Bolillo) in his native Columbia. Image © CC RonnyK, Pixabay Image © CC RonnyK,

www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 117 Respecting Russia Respecting Russia

The World Cup in Russia is almost precautions. As with all overseas here, and with the squad gearing travel, it is crucial that you make sure up to play their best, it’s important you have travel insurance that covers that travelling fans take time to you for where you intend to go and all prepare as well. activities that you do there.

Read Travel Aware’s advice on Respecting Russia saying safe in Russia and enjoying the 2018 tournament.

Russia is a large country, spanning 17.1 million km² and across 11 different Preparing for Russia time zones. As with any foreign country, it is important that all British fans act appropriately and are • Read our Russia travel advice at respectful of Russia’s local customs, gov.uk/Russia2018 and sign-up whilst paying attention to the host for alerts to get notification of any country’s World Cup regulations. changes when you’re in Russia.

To help your experience go smoothly, • You should make sure you’re travellers should prepare their itinerary, aware of the terms and conditions travel and accommodation ahead of attached to your FAN ID or visa their trip, taking note of important before you travel to Russia. If you’re information about each location travelling through another country to and taking on board any safety get to or from Russia, make sure you Image © CC- goodfreephotos.com

118 check the entry requirements for that banned on the evening and day country and have any visas required. of matches in certain locations in host cities. The sale of alcohol • You will not be able to leave from shops is restricted, typically Russia if your FAN ID or visa from 11pm to 8am (10pm to 11am in has expired. In some cases, you Saint Petersburg).

may be required to pay a fine, be Respecting Russia banned from returning to Russia, or • You should note that the have to attend a court hearing. If distance between each stadium you need to extend your stay, you is considerable and will should enquire about this before involve long journeys. There your FAN ID or visa expires. will be an increased demand on flights, trains and hotels, so • Visitors are advised to remain you should book early to avoid vigilant, avoid any protests disappointment. Tell a friend or demonstrations and avoid or relative about your travel commenting publicly on political plans. Give them some idea of developments – especially due to the your itinerary if possible and an current heightened political tensions emergency contact number. between the UK and Russia. • You’ll need to register in every • Russia Day (12th June) is a host city you visit within 24 hours public holiday, and some service of arrival. This is normally done by providers may be closed. You your hotel, guest house or Airbnb should ensure you have adequate but it’s your responsibility to make stocks of prescription medicines or sure that this happens. any other items you may need. • Arrive early at matches to avoid • It is an offence to change money problems at the gate, or worse, from street traders in Russia. If you missing the start. Allow plenty plan to buy roubles in Russia, you of time to reach the stadium should take US dollars or Euros to – expect heavy traffic and big exchange. Only change money at crowds. Monitor local media banks, hotels and airport exchange and advice from the authorities bureaus. Most major high street to know the best route to the banks and currency exchange stadium on match days. providers in the UK can pre-order roubles (Russian currency). • Few of the host cities have experience of hosting international Preparing for matches events like the World Cup and have built new stadiums and transport infrastructure • During the tournament, the sale of in preparation. During the alcohol at events associated with tournament, there will be official the tournament may be restricted. English speaking volunteers The sale and consumption of in each one of the host cities alcohol in glass containers will be available to help visitors.

www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 119 Tom Regan Q&A

Q2) What experience are you bringing from previous international football tournaments?

We’ve had a lot of practical Tom Regan Q&A experience in the past 18 months – five major British football teams Free Lions – Profile Q&A have played in Russia in European matches. The FCO has supported the clubs and their fans, and worked Tom Regan, Head of World Cup team closely with the Russian and British at the Foreign and Commonwealth police. This has proved really useful Office (FCO). experience and we hope that the positive experience the majority Q1) What does it mean to be Head of of our fans have had can continue World Cup team at the FCO? through to the World Cup.

It is a real honour – I am a massive Our planning for this World Cup football fan. My first World Cup began a couple of years ago. In memory was Italia ’90. I remember that time, the British Embassy has my parents sending me to bed when met with the organisers, fan groups, England went into extra time against the Football Association, as well as Belgium and running downstairs the people involved in the World Cup in next morning to read the paper to Brazil. Hearing directly from the fans see how we’d got on. at the FA’s recent forum has prompted updates to our advice. The Foreign and Commonwealth Office (FCO) is the lead UK Q3) What are your hopes and Government department for Britain expectations for the 2018 World Cup overseas. As the Head of our in Russia? World Cup team, I am leading our preparations for the tournament. Our Off the pitch, we hope that fans will number one priority is the safety and have a safe and enjoyable tournament. security of fans heading to Russia for Some fans may have been to Moscow the tournament. I’ve travelled around and Saint Petersburg before, but to Volgograd, Nizhny, Kaliningrad the draw will allow them to see cities (and every other city) to meet the that few Brits have been to in recent organisers, receiving practical years. We hope that fans are well information on how the cities are prepared for their trip. This means preparing. We’ve asked questions having read the FCO’s Travel Advice, about transport and accommodation, and we’ve also produced some World and considered mobile British Cup specific guidance called “Be on Embassy teams to support fans in the Ball”. It gives fans lots of practical the unexpected event they need tips on issues they care about – how it. We’ll put as much practical the Fan ID system works, what to do information into our FCO Travel in emergencies, and any details on Advice to help fans prepare. specific cities.

120 On the pitch, I think it is the lot of an Q5) What is your advice to fans England fan to get more optimistic who are travelling to watch as the tournament nears, and the England matches? performances against Germany and Brazil were encouraging. I’m hoping Firstly, plan your trip in advance. that the players play without fear If you sign up to and follow the Tom Regan Q&A and that an early victory gives them top tips of our “Be on the Ball” confidence. I’m going to pitch for a campaign, then you’ll stand yourself glorious exit in the Quarter Final! in good stead. Secondly, note down the FCO and British Embassy Q4) How will the World Cup in Russia contact details (located on the next differ from previous tournaments? page). If the worst happens, the Embassy is there to help. There’s quite a few differences compared to South Africa and Brazil, Q6) How are you and your team the ones I’d highlight are: preparing for the World Cup?

Language – Since I first travelled We are sending teams of Embassy around Russia in 2015, there are more staff to be in cities where England English language signage in key places. play. We are in regular contact with But for some cities, such as Nizhny the local organisers to get as much Novgorod, this will be the first time they practical information that we can have received significant number of pass on to fans. We are working foreign visitors. Like travelling anywhere, closely with the Football Supporters’ a few words in the local language are Federation and the FA to answer any likely to be well received; questions that supporters have.

Distances – even though the The British Embassy has visited all tournament takes place in Western eleven host cities and will be visiting Russia, it’s still a huge distance. For again before the tournament. We’ve the first time in a World Cup, fans also taken Russian police officers to can apply for free train travel on the UK and UK police to Russia to selected trains. It’s a great offer – but strength cooperation. it’s important that these are booked in advance. Plan early as demand During the tournament, we will will be high. Likewise, give yourself increase the number of call handlers plenty of time to get from transport we have on standby in case people hubs to the stadium and time to clear have any practical issues that the airport-style security checks. the FCO in London or the British Embassy in Moscow can assist with. Russian dolls (“Matrochka” dolls) – no trip to Russia would be complete Finally, we have in place plans to without seeing or buying a few provide assistance for football fans Russian dolls. Fans that head to up to the end of the tournament. Izmailovo Market in Moscow will find We hope that there’ll still be lots of various English teams have been British football fans in Russia up to turned into Russian dolls. the 15th July…

www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 121 The FCO in Russia The FCO in Russia

The vast majority of fans with enjoy Key Info the tournament without incident. However, if you’re abroad and you need emergency help from the UK In the event of an emergency, call government, you should contact the 112. For consular assistance, for nearest British embassy, consulate example if you lose your passport, or high commission. There are call +7 495 956 7200. certain things the British embassy can help with: Further information, travel advice and contact details are available on www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/ THE BRITISH EMBASSY CAN russia. You can also sign up to email • Provide info on transferring alerts here. money from the UK • Help you get medical attention if Specific World Cup advice is you need it available on gov.uk/Russia2018 • Contact your friends and family • Put you in touch with lawyers if If you have any enquiries for FCO you need them consular staff before you go or while • Issue a replacement travel abroad you can ask questions via document (subject to a fee) the FCO Twitter service @FCOtravel. • Contact you within 24 hours of being in hospital/prison You can also keep up-to-date with the latest FCO travel advice by signing up to the FCO’s Facebook and Twitter feeds: www.facebook. THE BRITISH EMBASSY CANNOT com/fcotravel or twitter.com/ • Pay your hotel, legal, medical or fcotravel using #beontheball. any other bills • Investigate a crime • Make travel arrangements for you • Give you legal advice • Get you out of jail • Get you a ticket for the final! Image © CC- FirmBee, Pixabay Image © CC- FirmBee,

122 Tom Regan Q&A Ekaterinburg Guide Ekaterinburg Guide Ekaterinburg

was followed by a period of severe Location: Ural District depression and crime in the city. Population: 1,400,000 BST +4 hours Time zone: Situated on the borderline of continents 16.5oC Average June temperature: Europe and Asia, the city was founded close to the Ural Mountains by Peter I the Great back in 1723. A mighty 1755km Group Stage Fixtures (Local Time) from the capital the city is experiencing a period of growth and positivity, Match Date K/O steered by a mayor from a political Egypt vs Uruguay 15/06 17:00 party not loyal to the Kremlin. (Group A) France vs Peru 21/06 17:00 (Group C) Getting There Japan vs Senegal 24/06 20:00 (Group H) Mexico vs Sweden 27/06 19:00 (Group F) By Air

Located around 15km south-east of Russia’s fourth largest city began the city in the Oktyabrsky District is as part fort and part industrial the Koltsovo International Airport, base, particularly for mining. Named base for Ural Airlines. Therefore Sverdlovsk between 1924 and 1991 a lot of flights are operated by the city actually developed during Ural, but other Russian airlines the Second World War, as factories at such as UTair and Aeroflot service risk of attack transferred production Ekaterinburg. There are daily east. Despite this the city remained services to Moscow and Saint

Image © CC- Wikimedia CommonsImage © CC- Wikimedia closed to outsiders until 1990, which

124 the main station, which is located the mainstation,whichislocated All Trans-Siberian trains stopat 40 minutes depending ontraffic. or Yandex Taxi, with thejourney 30- than R500ifusingthelikes ofUber A taxiwill usually costnomore board conductor. offices, machinesand from theon- with tickets available atticket depending onyour destination, The fare varies from 30-60rubles 40-minutes, including sevenstops. dailyandtakestwice around electric train runstothestation Alternatively aKoltsovo Express regular bus fare isaround R28. mightstaying these beideal.The ifyou so know whereairport, you’re downtown destinationsfrom the of Marshruktas thatruntofurther en route. There are ahandful also route but makes anumber ofstops 06:00-00:00, thisfollows thesame the number 1bus runsbetween minutes. Otherwise taking 30-40 andthemaintrain airport station, and makes the nostopsbetween bus. This isoperational 24-hours istheshuttle from theairport city The mostconvenient way into the it’sso besttobookinadvance. but theirfrequency beirregular can the likes ofFrankfurt andPrague, international flightscan be found to and Nizhny Novgorod. Notable connections tohostcitiesSamara Petersburg, aswell asfrequent By Train stadium, but thenearest metro stopis comfortable walking distance ofthe 5, 7, 21,23, 27, and32all runwithina tothestadium tramsWhen getting 3, clubs. football oldest FC Ural nation’s oneofthe home to under Russian Law. arena The is stadium’sthe roof, isprotected which increase capacity without impacting novelThe solution was introduced to grounds stadium. the lookinginto original that oddlysitoutside the recent includesmost ofthese stands many ofrefurbishment. The stages 1953, but hasundergone sincethen was built originally in stadium The Ekaterinburg Arena -capacity 35,000 StadiumThe order toavoid disappointment. we would tobookearlyin advise . So transport2018.com/free-train reserved by visiting www.tickets. the matches,but must be before to thecity andafter Free trains will berunning also stop asSverdlovsk, itsformer name. timetablesmayreferSome tothe around R1500. time from Ekaterinburg, withfares This 15-hours istypically travel stopatfellowalso Kazan. hostcity toandfromAll thecapital services around 26-hours for around R4000. coupleevery ofdays andtakes to Moscow istheUral, whichruns centre. The mostcommonservice a 30-minute walk from thecity www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 125 Ekaterinburg Guide Ekaterinburg Guide

1.5km away at Ploshchad 1905 Goda. BY BUS, TROLLEYBUS AND TRAM Located only just north of the centre it is possible to walk from the Principal The city is covered in bus routes, with 1905 square in about 20 minutes. 89 of them to be precise populating even suburban areas. However centrally a tram or trolleybus should Getting Around also be sufficient to get you where you Ekaterinburg Guide Ekaterinburg want to go.

The fare is R28 which is payable to the driver upon boarding.

BY ELECTRIC TRAIN

The electric trains are very convenient and cover the north and east of the city particularly well. However a lot of the centre for example is not incorporated in the routes and will ultimately leave you having to change to a bus or tram to reach. Within the ELECTRONIC TRAVEL CARD city limits fares cost between R30-R60 and can be purchased at stations or These can be purchased for R75 and from the conductor on board. work for the metro, tram, bus and trolleybus when paying the fare. These BY BIKE can be programmed with a variety of plans, such as R500 for 20 trips or People don’t tend to cycle as an unlimited journeys across three days for alternative to public transport in R390. These can be paid for at metro Ekaterinburg. Nonetheless there are a stations, newstands and post offices, as number of recommended cycling spots, well as payment terminals which may such as parks and woodland areas be located at bus and tram stops. closer to the outskirts. Bike rentals can be found around the centre. BY METRO

The metro went into operation back Things to see and do in 1991 and covers 13km. Working its way across the city, it has nine stops within four of the city’s seven districts. The huge Church on the Blood marks In terms of the main train station, the area where Tsar Nicholas II, his wife Uralskaya is the closest stop and is a and children were killed by Bolsheviks few minutes walk away. back in 1918. There is also a chapel on the site of the city’s main attraction. A single ride is R28 (cash only), with metro stations open from 06:00 until Istorichesky Skver is one of the midnight daily. most idyllic yet bubbly parks within Image © CC- Wikimedia CommonsImage © CC- Wikimedia

126 Ekaterinburg Guide Ekaterinburg

Ekaterinburg. The landscaped park sits beside the city pond and marks where Hospital the city was forged back in 1723.

The Architecture and Design History Sverdlovsk Regional Clinical Museum depicts the spot where the Hospital #1 city’s mining industry began. Housing Address: 185 Volgogradskaya Str., the machinery used within previous Ekaterinburg, 620102 centuries, it is open 11:00-18:00 +7 343 351 1640 Tuesday to Saturday. +7 343 351 1697

If you don’t mind heights then visit the Vysotsky Viewing Platform. 180m up, which is reached by lift, you will Post Office get the best possible view across Ekaterinburg to enjoy from a 360 degrees perspective. Main Post Office pr Lenina 39, Ekaterinburg, Russia Limpopo is the largest waterpark in Monday-Friday 08:00-22:00, the whole of Europe and is open daily Weekends 09:00-18:00 between 09:00-22:00. 620077, Ekaterinburg If you want to visit some art galleries 10, Marshala zhukova ul, there is the Ekaterinburg Museum of Ekaterinburg, 620077 Fine Arts and the Vaynera Branch, the Mon-Fri 08:00-20:00 second of which houses more modern Sat 09:00-18:00 pieces. Entry at either is R150. Image © CC- Wikimedia CommonsImage © CC- Wikimedia

www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 127 Ekaterinburg Guide

Sverdlovsk Region Centre for the Promotion of Tourism Ulitsa 8 Marta 13, Ekaterinburg +7 (343) 350-0525 http://gotoural.com/

There is also a kiosk at the airport which Ekaterinburg Guide Ekaterinburg is open 10:00-19:00 Monday to Friday.

British Consulate

British Consulate-General Ekaterinburg 15A, Gogol Street Russia +7 (343) 253 56 00 Monday-Friday 09:00-17:00

Fan Zone

Each host city has committed to providing a Fan Zone, or in the case of Russia 2018 a ‘FAN FEST’. These areas allow supporters to gather and Tourist Office watch the matches on big screens, for free. The size and scale of these will vary from city to city, however, Ekaterinburg has two travellers and while they will all be equipped information centres, with the with fast food stalls and information standard free offerings of maps and from tournament sponsors, along city guides readily available. with the likes of five-a-side pitches as well as the usual facilities, don’t Information centres should have assume that what applied in one city multilingual staff who can provide will apply in another. information on the likes of local events, public transport and even guidance Some may only be open for matches should there be an emergency. that are being played in the city itself, others will include matches of the Ekaterinburg Traveller’s Information Russian national team, while others Service will show every game. Ekaterinburg Ulitsa 8 Marta 21, Ekaterinburg FAN FEST will be located at Russia Mayakovsky Central Park of +7 (343) 222-2445 Entertainment and Culture, with a capacity of 17,000. Image © CC- Wikimedia CommonsImage © CC- Wikimedia http://its.ekburg.ru/

128 Saransk streets creating agrowingstreets tourist modernEuropean with style historical more. Nowadays marriesthe city the role was no military its century influence dwindled and the 18th by as Russia grew outwardscity’s the However asafrontier fort. stood Saransk was founded in1641 and Group Stage(Local Fixtures Time) Average June 17.5 temperature: Time zone:BST +2hours Population: 307, 000 Location: Volga District (Group B) (Group Iran vs Portugal (Group H) vs Japan Colombia (Group C) Peru vs Denmark Match (Group G) Panama vs Tunisia Guide 28/06 25/06 16/06 19/06 Date Date o C 18:00 19:00 21:00 21:00 K/O which are taught inschools. alongside Russian -Moksha andErzya - otherlanguages speaktwo people also Mordovian. The indigenous Finno-Ugrian around 30%ofthecity’s inhabitants are the tributaries oftheSaranka andTavla, of theRiver Insar, where itisjoinedby most pleasant. Standing onthebanks frequently regarded asoneofRussia’s Republic ofMordovia,is thecity The administrative ofthe capital Leninskiy, centre wherethe islocated. Oktyabrskiy,districts and Proletarskiy economy. three Saranskisdividedinto Getting There Getting renovation works ahead ofthe undergoing important after Saransk hasrecently reopened The of International Airport www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup By Air 129 Image © CC- Wikimedia Commons Saransk Guide Saransk Guide

By Bus

A bus to Saransk from Moscow

Saransk Guide would be likely to take 12-13 hours on a good day.

The Stadium

tournament and is situated on the city’s southern tip, around 5 km from Saransk’s heart. Despite such works the airport is still particularly small and generally flights only operate to small regional airports. However during Mordovia Arena - capacity 44,000 the World Cup there are set to be scheduled departures to Moscow. The arena is located on the east of Saransk and is a bowl consisting of two tiers of seating. Building work began in 2010 but the stadium is By Train yet to be completed, partly due to a two-year stoppage reportedly The Saransk I railway station, due to a lack of a funding. However unlike the airport, does have as of late 2017 greater progress regular connections outside of the has been made with the pitch region. Notable daily services run planting underway and the roof to Moscow and Nizhny Novgorod. undergoing continued work. The capital is around 10 hours After the World Cup local side travel time and Nizhny generally FC Mordovia will move in and the 7-8 hours away. capacity will be reduced to under 30,000 spectators. Free trains will also be running to the city before and after The stadium lies within walking distance the matches, but must be of the city centre, but it is expected reserved by visiting www.tickets. that shuttle buses will be introduced transport2018.com/free-train. So during the tournament for supporters. we would advise to book early in Otherwise the Volgogradskaya Ulitsa order to avoid disappointment. transport stop is a brief walk from the arena. This is served by buses, Both Images © CC- Wikimedia CommonsBoth Images © CC- Wikimedia

130 trolleybuses and marshrutkas from most parts of the city.

Getting Around Saransk Guide

BY ELECTRIC TRAIN

Electric train routes run through Saransk from north to south along the River Insar. The line has four stops within the city itself, which includes the main train station.

The fare is R20 within the town, which doubles to R40 if travelling to the nearest suburbs. Saransk’s train schedules can be viewed on the Yandex Elektrichki app, which is functional in most Russian cities.

BY BUS, TROLLEYBUS AND MARSHRUTKA

All neighbourhoods in the city are covered by all of the above transport methods, while buses and Hospital marshrutkas also operate in the suburbs. In total there are 24 bus routes, 11 trolleybus lines and nine Mordovia Republican Clinical for marshrutkas. Hospital Pobedy Str., 14/5 Saransk, The fare is either R16 or R17 depending Mordovia, Russia, 430013 on the route taken, which can be paid +7 8342 760097 to the driver or conductor. +7 8342 761166

BY BIKE

Bike rentals can be found around Post Office the city, which comes as no surprise given the number of parks ideal for cycling. However not many people 31, Bol`shevistskaya ul, Saransk, frequently use bikes to get around, Russia, 430005 although some bike lanes are Mon-Fri 08:00-22:00, Sat-Sun earmarked to be in place in time for 09:00-18:00 this summer’s tournament. Image © CC- Wikimedia CommonsImage © CC- Wikimedia

www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 131 Saransk Guide

Traveller’s Information Centre of the Things to see and do Republic of Mordovia Ulitsa Bogdana Khmelnitskogo 26, Office 106, Saransk

Saransk Guide All of the major landmarks and +7 (8342) 777-677 attractions of the city are populated within its central areas British Consulate Millenium Square houses an impressive water fountain with its powerful jets complimented by LED displays, There is no embassy in Saransk but making it quite the spectacle Pushkin there will be representatives available Park of Culture and Recreation is a in the city in the days before, popular spot in Saransk. The park has during and after any England match a wishing well and duck pond, as well should you need any assistance. For as a theatre in summertime and runs additional details please see the along the banks of the Saranska. Foreign and Commonwealth Office information on page 122. The Museum of Mordovia Folk Culture has been open since 1999 and contains over 4000 exhibits from the Fan Zone 19th and 20th centuries. Admission is from R50. Opened in 2012 the Mordovskoye Podvorye ethnographic Each host city has committed to museum complex is an interactive and providing a Fan Zone, or in the open air museum presenting what life case of Russia 2018 a ‘FAN FEST’. was like beyond its recent history and These areas allow supporters to to its roots. Entry is R250. gather and watch the matches on big screens, for free. The size and The Yaushev State Music Theatre has scale of these will vary from city to been running shows since the 1930’s city, however, and while they will all and still does to this day. It’s open be equipped with fast food stalls Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Originally and information from tournament built in 1175 from wood the Church of sponsors, along with the likes of the Nativity of Saint John the Baptist five-a-side pitches as well as the now made of stone is open to visitors usual facilities, don’t assume that daily, 09:00-19:00. what applied in one city will apply in another.

Tourist Office Some may only be open for matches that are being played in the city itself, others will include matches of the Information centres should have Russian national team, while others multilingual staff who can provide will show every game. Saransk FAN information on the likes of local events, FEST will be located at Sovetskaya public transport and even guidance Square, with a capacity of 20,000. should there be an emergency.

132 Sochi Guide Sochi Guide

Group Stage Fixtures (Local Time) Location: South Russia Population: 401,000 Match Date K/O Time zone: BST +2 hours o Portugal vs Spain Average June temperature: 20.5 C 15/06 21:00 (Group B) Belgium vs Panama 18/06 18:00 (Group G) Sochi will be the southernmost city to Germany vs Sweden host World Cup matches this summer, 23/06 18:00 (Group F) in an area some describe as the Australia vs Peru ‘Russian Riviera’ due to its influx of 26/06 17:00 (Group C) tourists during the summer months. It was only founded in 1838 and had a series of names before Sochi was Round of 16 settled on in 1986, which it shares with a local river. Nestled at the coast with Match Date K/O the inland Caucasus Mountains behind, 1A vs 2B 30/06 21:00 the city runs along the Black Sea coastline and is Europe’s longest city.

Quater Final However to many outsiders it only emerged into the global spotlight Match Date K/O when hosting the Winter Olympic and W51 vs W52 07/07 21:00 Paralympic games in 2014. An event Image © CC- Dmitry Karyshev

www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 133 Sochi Guide

that along with the annual Formula 1 Grand Prix that is now held in the Sochi’s centre, as well as Adler, city has aided a surge of growth the urban area around the airport. Sochi Guide and development in recent years. These also run beyond such Infrastructure has been significantly destinations to places on the upgraded in terms of transportation, coast where you may be staying and also within Sochi’s cultural and or wish to visit. tourism sectors. Alternatively buses stop at the airport along their routes to various Getting There locations, including on the coast and in the mountains. Numbers 105 and 124 run to central Sochi, whilst 51 runs to the centre of Adler. By Air

Sochi’s International Airport is located 30km from the city By Train centre and has been completely reconstructed in recent years. Sochi’s station was significantly From there direct flights operate upgraded ahead of the 2014 to a number of Russian cities, but Winter Olympic and Paralympic the only host cities are Moscow Games, so as well offering and Saint Petersburg. These frequent services to nearby Adler are regular daily services run by it is also very well connected airlines such as Aeroflot, Rossiya with the rest of Russia. For the and S7. On occasions flights have capital trains leave multiple times been available to Ekaterinburg, a day and go via Krasnodar, a but these are on a seasonal basis. destination that may be familiar This is a pattern that is followed for to followers of the Europa League. flights to and from Sochi outside of These take between 24-37 hours, Russia. These services typically run with prices rising from R2500. via Istanbul and Vienna. There are regular departures to Rostov-on-Don that take around From the airport taxis can prove 15 hours and cost less than R200. expensive with prices moving Saint Petersburg is serviced upwards from R1000 depending twice daily with fares between on your destination, and heavy R3500-R6000, taking 40 hours. traffic in some areas of the city can make them less efficient than Free trains will also be running public transport. to the city before and after the matches, but must be Most visitors therefore tend to reserved by visiting www.tickets. take the train or bus from the transport2018.com/free-train. So airport. The train can be used to we would advise to book early in reach the main train stations in order to avoid disappointment.

134 By Boat

Either Trabzon, Turkey or Batumi, Sochi Guide Georgia can be reached by boat with prices around R4000. The voyage for both takes around 5-6 hours, but these will only run once or twice a week.

The Stadium

bus also runs from the airport to the stadium. Otherwise many trains heading to destinations further afield in Russia stop at Imeretinsky Kurort, which is within walking distance of the stadium.

Getting Around

BY COMMUTER TRAIN

Fisht Stadium - capacity 48,000 These are the best priced and usually fastest way to get around Sochi and The World Cup venue is located in the its districts. Fares will depend on the Olympic Park, where in 2014 it was distance you intend to travel and can used to host both the opening and be purchased from stations and on closing ceremonies for the games. The board trains, whilst most self-service stadium is structured to give supporters machines accept card. a view of mountains on one side and the sea the other. It re-opened in 2017 Many people will use the high-speed for the Confederations Cup after some Lastochka train, but check your route reconstruction works and is earmarked as this service will sometimes bypass to host further international matches for smaller stations that other services the national team after the tournament. stop at. It was named after Mount Fisht, a nearby peak in the Caucasus Mountains. BY BUS

Situated in the area of Adler the Buses cover the whole of Cochi, stadium is most easily accessed from including the most remote coastal and Adler train station, from where the 57 alpine dwellings. There are over 200 bus can be taken to the arena. The 57k routes, in which some services link Left Image © CC- Wikimedia Commons, Right Image © CC Evermore Commons, Image © CC- Right Left Wikimedia

www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 135 Sochi Guide

districts together. Buses are wheelchair mountainous terrain. You should have no accessible and air-conditioned, with issues finding somewhere to rent a bike, some even having wifi. with designated cycle lanes plentiful. Sochi Guide

Many routes around Sochi and Adler pass along Kurortny Prospekt. So if you Things to see and do are struggling to find a bus in the right direction, this is the place to go. The city’s arboretum is open daily BY MARSHRUTKA and houses over 1500 types of trees and species of shrubs. Entry is Sochi is without a metro system due R250, whilst for an additional R500 to its terrain and landforms, so many you can take a cable car to the top people use Marshruktas. These can and enjoy the splendid view. prove difficult for visitors with drivers rarely speaking English, but the vehicles Opened in 2010 the Museum of in Sochi are often state of the art Sochi Sport Honour has a series of following upgrades prior to the Winter collections charting the history of Olympic and Paralympic games in 2014. the Olympic movement. There are exhibitions on Sochi 2014 and items For more information on Marshrutkas of memorabilia on display. please see Getting around Russia on pages XXX and XXX. The Sochi Art Museum is home to thousands of pieces and regular BY BIKE exhibitions from local artists. It is the largest collection along the Cycling is a popular method of transport Black Coast. For an afternoon of to get around Sochi despite its activity visit Park Riviera. There is an Image © CC- yuna queen

136 Hospital Sochi Guide

City Hospital No.4 1 Tuapsinskaya Str., Sochi, 354057 +7 862 261 4175

Post Office

ul Vorovskogo 1/2, Sochi, 354000 Mon-Fri 08:00-22:00 Sat and Sun 09:00-18:00

Oceanarium with admission R200 Foreign and Commonwealth Office and funfair rides to be enjoyed for a information on page 122. few rubles.

The Town History Museum is open Fan Zone daily until 19:30, with entry R100. There are exhibits on World War II and notably a space capsule which Each host city has committed to spent nearly 20 days in orbit with a providing a Fan Zone, or in the case native on board. of Russia 2018 a ‘FAN FEST’. These areas allow supporters to gather and The Lenin Mosaic is an iconic spot watch the matches on big screens, in Sochi and a popular place for a for free. The size and scale of these memorable holiday selfie, while 4km will vary from city to city, however, from Adler train station is the Sochi and while they will all be equipped Olympic Park which hosted many of with fast food stalls and information the events during the 2014 Winter from tournament sponsors, along Olympic and Paralympic Games. with the likes of five-a-side pitches as well as the usual facilities, don’t assume that what applied in one city British Consulate will apply in another.

Some may only be open for matches There is no embassy in Sochi but that are being played in the city itself, there will be representatives available others will include matches of the in the city in the days before, Russian national team, while others during and after any England match will show every game. Sochi FAN FEST should you need any assistance. For will be located at South Mall of the Seaport, with a capacity of 10,000. additional details please see the Image © CC- Dmitry Kabanov

www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 137 About the FSF About the FSF

The Football Supporters’ Federation reciprocal pricing discounts for away (FSF) is the national supporters’ fans, saving thousands of fans money organisation for all football fans, from their matchday. representing more than 500,000 individual fans and members of The publicity and visibility gained by local supporters’ organisations from the campaign also caused the Premier every club in the professional league League to introduce a maximum cap structure, and many from further of £30 on all away tickets from the down the pyramid. 2016/17 season for three years. It was a huge step in the right direction, but we’ll continue to lobby the clubs Campaigns and leagues to make football more affordable for all.

As a campaigning organisation we We are also leading advocates of work simultaneously on a number of Stand Up For Choice, which aims for causes on behalf of fans. a return to the choice of whether to sit or stand when watching matches Away fans are often at the sharp in the top two divisions in England end when it comes to issues like and Wales. The campaign has been re-arranged kick-off times, policing ongoing for some time but things and stewarding and ticket price have really started to move in recent categorisation, and we hope our ‘Away years. First the Scottish Premiership Fans Matter’ campaign will not only and then the Football League have improve matters for away fans but backed rail seating trials, while clubs that home fans will feel the benefit. in the Premier League have expressed an interest in trialling modern standing Part of Away Fans Matter is the areas in their stadium, too. ‘Twenty’s Plenty’ campaign which aims to cap the price that away fans Work continues behind the scenes as we pay for their tickets at £20. This has make our case, and lobby the decision seen very high-profile successes over makers to trial new technologies. the past few years. The campaign has convinced a number of clubs We also take up specific cases that are in the Football League to introduce raised with us by individual members

138 or affiliated organisations, and we group is chaired by Ian Mearns MP, a encourage the participation of all season ticket holder at St James’ Park, supporters in this process. We receive and aims to strengthen the voice of emails and calls on a regular basis football fans in Parliament. from fans who feel they’ve been badly About the FSF treated by clubs, stewards or police. Our caseworker and volunteers work Join the FSF with supporters to help them resolve their problems and get the best outcome for all concerned. We can Strength comes in numbers, even point them in the right direction and membership of the FSF for legal advice, should it be necessary. is entirely free. You can sign up easily and quickly online at But it’s not all about us. In fact, it’s www.fsf.org.uk/join. not about us at all, but about you, the football supporter. All we need is your name, email address, and the club you support. The FSF welcomes approaches from supporters who wish to campaign As well as accessing all the on issues that matter to them. There FSF’s services, membership is a campaigns budget which can entitles you to take part in and be accessed by members to pay for vote at FSF meetings such as materials and other costs towards our annual conference. local issues, and we are able to offer co-ordination and logistical support to All our policies and the issues grass roots campaigns. that we campaign on are set democratically by our members, so if you think we’re missing a Lobbying trick by all means get in touch, come along, and make your case.

The FSF has regular meetings with the football authorities and Government, discussing a wide range of issues, many of them in response to concerns raised with us by supporters. We think it’s about time that the views of the major stakeholders in the game (ie us, the fans) were considered, and we work hard to engage in meaningful discussion on many of the game’s issues.

The FSF is also secretariat to the All Party Parliamentary Football Supporters Group. The cross-party Image © CC- JESHOOTS, Pixabay Image © CC- JESHOOTS,

www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 139 About the FSF

with a huge array of activities which have inspired participation Partners from communities who might not otherwise have got involved with the About the FSF beautiful game. The FSF works in close collaboration with our friends at Supporters Direct An example we’re especially proud and Level Playing Field (previously of within that is the explosion of known as the National Association LGBT+ led supporter organisations in of Disabled Supporters). FSF Chair recent years. Fans for Diversity was Malcolm Clarke sits on the FA Council instrumental in the creation of Pride as one of two fans’ representatives. in Football, the umbrella network for LGBT+ fan groups. There are now 30+ The FSF has good working relationships LGBT+ groups across the Premier with other campaigning organisations League and EFL. such as Kick It Out, Liberty and Show Racism the Red Card. But that’s not all Fans for Diversity is about. The initiative has also worked The FSF is also a founding member with West Ham-supporting senior of the European-wide representative citizens thanks to Sporting Memories supporters’ organisation Football and Any Old Irons, new female fan Supporters Europe. Officially groups such as Lady Imps, helped recognised by Uefa, FSE has been disabled supporters groups and a running since 2008, and has held whole host of organisations via our annual congresses across the Fans for Diversity hub at Leyton continent. The FSF is represented on Orient’s Brisbane Road. FSE’s committee by Chief Executive Kevin Miles.

Fans for Diversity Find out more

Fans for Diversity has a simple aim – to celebrate diversity among football fans and ensure that all fans can feel safe and welcome at football. Football is the world’s greatest game and it is for everyone, regardless of age, disability, gender, race, faith, sexual orientation or any other feature. Find out more about the Fans Since its launch in 2014 Fans for Diversity campaign by visiting for Diversity, run by the Football www.fsf.org.uk/campaigns/fans- Supporters’ Federation and Kick for-diversity. It Out, has delivered on that aim

140 The FSF in Russia

providing you with is accurate, up- to-date and delivered in the quickest possible fashion.

Chances are that if we don’t already know the answer to your question, we The FSF in Russia know the person who does.

Every tournament poses its own unique set of challenges, and Russia will be no different. Like Brazil, Poland- Ukraine and South Africa before it, the distances between venues in Russia will take it out of even the most seasoned travellers. The logistics of getting from A to B will be somewhat different from just hopping in the hire car and driving the relatively manageable distance from Lens to St Etienne, not to mention the fact that we’ll be dealing with a different language, a different alphabet and several timezones.

And all that’s before we even touch on the delicate geopolitical situation that’s developed in recent months. Fans’ Embassy The fans’ embassy has always been provided by fans, for fans, and that Our fans embassy service is already means it’s there to help you. It doesn’t a familiar sight to regular followers matter if you’ve been to every game of the national team, and we’ve since Italia ‘90 or if this is your first major followed England every step of the tournament, or even your first England way through qualifying for Russia, and game full-stop – everyone needs that since we assured qualification back in little bit of help or information sometimes. the autumn we’ve been ever so busy. The team will be on the ground in Your Free Lions team have paid visits each of the host cities in which to each of the cities where England will England are playing on matchdays, find themselves playing in the group as well as a day either side, and stages, as well as some likely knockout are contactable throughout the stage venues, as well. tournament. The precise locations for the fans’ embassy have yet to We have established connections with be confirmed at the time of going to the key local officials and agencies in press, but we’ll publicise the details all the host cities to make sure that as soon as we can on our website and the information and assistance we’re through our social media channels.

www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 141 The FSF in Russia

The Website Confidential advice

The Fans’ Embassy is run by football As usual, we’re making our supporters whose only interests

The FSF in Russia information available to fans in a are those of helping fellow fans. number of different ways (such as this Regardless of the help we receive very guidebook you’re holding). The from the Government or local biggest repository of information will authorities, we remain independent, always be the FSF website – www.fsf. impartial and objective. org.uk - unburdened as it is by page or word-count limits. The service we offer is entirely confidential - we will not pass on The website allows us to go into much information about any individual to greater detail on things that we’ve either local police or UK authorities, had to cram into this book, and will be and we are there to assist all football constantly updated in the run-up to the supporters, regardless of whether tournament, and as long as England they are englandfans members or in are involved. We’ve not only got a crack possession of a match ticket. team of fans’ embassy workers out on the ground in Russia but a dependable group of lads and lasses back at our Free Lions HQ to provide ongoing support.

A few of the key bits of information Regular travellers will be used to were not finalised when we went to receiving their copy of Free Lions, print in May, but by the time you read the FSF’s England fanzine which this they could already have been is renowned for its vital local posted on the website. We’d advise information and advice for fans (with you to check it regularly in the run- a bit of football chat and irreverent up to the tournament to make sure humour thrown in for good measure). you’ve got all the information you need to know. As is usual at major tournaments, we will be producing an issue of Free Lions fresh for each and every game. This Helpline means that while you’re all toasting the latest England success or drowning your sorrows, your talented and If you need urgent advice or handsome Free Lions team will already assistance on the ground in Russia at be hard at work on the next issue. any stage throughout the tournament (not just matchdays) and you can’t The deadlines are always tight, but find any of our volunteers, or if it’s out with the ability to get copies printed of normal fans’ embassy hours, our locally in Russia we’re confident as team are contactable 24 hours a day ever that we’ll be able to deliver on on our usual helpline number - +44 time, and crucially be up-to-date with 7956 121314. developments from the last game, as

142 well as being in a position to address tournament authorities means we any problems or concerns that are able to raise it with them, as your England fans may have. issue might be something that they need to address. Rest assured that however far England go into the tournament each and We’re also here to speak up for you The FSF in Russia every edition will be handed out by our in the event that something goes Fans’ Embassy volunteers in the host wrong – for instance we can advise, cities on the days either side of each try to arrange legal representation England matchday. or consular help, and generally put you in touch with the relevant people If you’re a collector, or just want to in the event of arrest, lost passports ensure you get a pristine copy of each and the like. edition as a souvenir, you can take out a subscription. We’ll be shipping the spare copies back from Russia after Social media the tournament is over.

Free Lions remains free, but we do Twitter or Facebook content make a small charge for postage and dominate the news agenda like never admin costs. Back issues of most before, and let it not be said that the England games are available, too. FSF doesn’t move with the times. Details can be found on the website. We’ve disconnected the fax machine and recycled our pagers, and gone all mod cons. For those of you whose How you can help smartphones have become an extension of your upper appendages, you can access all our information The work of the fans’ embassy through both our Facebook and revolves around information, but Twitter feeds. that is a two-way process. We have direct communication with a number Sometimes 280 characters are all of official authorities involved in you need, and so vitally important the organisation of the tournament updates, such as the location of the which means we’re well placed to fans’ embassy, ticket arrangements convey information to supporters, but for knockout fixtures, or updates on this also allows us to feed back the travel arrangements will not only be problems that supporters are facing. printed in Free Lions and updated on the website, but will also be tweeted Please let us know about any and Facebooked. difficulties that you are facing – you may not be the only one in that You can keep up to date with us at: situation, and the more we know the better placed we are to help other @The_FSF and @FSF_FreeLions on supporters who may be facing similar Twitter issues. If it’s a more general problem, facebook.com/thefsf our line of communication with the facebook.com/freelions

www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 143 Essential Words and Phrases

As with Ukraine in 2012 Russian is not only a different language, but also has its own alphabet. The cyrillic alphabet comprises 10 vowels, 21 consonants, and 2 silent letters.

Be prepared to come across letters that look familiar, as well as those that resemble nothing at all. But be careful, even the familiar looking have different sounds.

But do not be put off. Learning just a little Russian will aid you hugely and locals will be impressed, which will make things easier should you have any issues. Although if you are speaking to a Russian in English be sure to keep

Essential Words and Phrases your language simple and avoid colloquialisms, they will just add confusion.

Let’s have a look!

The Russian Alphabet

Upper Lower Upper Lower Pronunciation Pronunciation Case Case Case Case A a ‘ar’ as in far P p ‘r’ as in rock Б б ‘b’ as in box C c ‘s’ as in sun B b ‘v’ as in voice Т т ‘t’ as in table Г г ‘g’ as in go У у ‘oo’ as in moon Д д ‘d’ as in day Ф ф ‘f’ as in food E e ‘e’ as in ye in yet or e in exit X x ‘ch’ as in loch ness Ё ё ‘yo’ as in your Ц ц ‘ts’ as in boots Ж ж ‘s’ as in pleasure Ч ч ‘ch’ as in chat З з ‘z’ as in zoo Ш ш ‘sh’ as in short И и ‘ee’ as in meet Щ щ ‘sh__ch’ as in fresh cheese Й й ‘y’ as in boy ъ Has no sound (hard) К к ‘k’ or ‘c’ as in key or cat ы ‘i’ as in ill Л л ‘l’ as in lamp ь Has no sound (soft) М м ‘m’ as in man Э э ‘e’ as in end Н н ‘n’ as in note Ю ю ‘u’ as in use O o ‘o’ as in not Я я ‘ya’ as in yard П п ‘p’ as in pet

Now that is done and dusted, you might want to put it into practice. So here are some useful words and phrases to help you along the way in Russia.

144 Basics

English Russian Pronunciation Hello Здравствуйте zdrast-vuyt-ye Goodbye До свидания da-svi-dan-ya Please Пожалуйста pa-zhal-sta You’re welcome пожалуйста pa-zhal-sta Thank you Спасибо spa-si-ba Essential Words and Phrases Excuse me (for Простите Iz-vi-nit-ye / pa-zhal-sta attention/apology) Yes Да da No Нет nyet Cheers! Good health! За здоровье! za zda-ro-vye I don’t understand Я не понимаю ya nye pa-ni-ma-yu I don’t know Я не знаю ya ne znay Where’s… ? где gdye Right правый pra-vih Left левый lye-vih One beer одно пиво Odno pi-va

Numbers

English Russian Pronunciation один/одна/одно 1 a-din/ad-na/ad-no (m/f/n) 2 два/две (m/f) dva/dvye 3 три tri 4 четыре chi-tih-ri 5 пять pyat 6 шесть shest 7 семь syem 8 восемь vo-sim 9 девять dye-vit 10 десять dye-sit 100 сто sto

www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 145 Essential Words and Phrases

Signs you might see

English Russian Entrance въезд Exit Выход Open открытый Closed закрытый No entry ПРОЕЭД ЗАПРЕЩЕН Essential Words and Phrases Toilet туалет Metro station станция метро Train station вокзал Bus station автовокзал Airport аэропорт

Time & Date

English Russian Pronunciation now сейчас si-chas later поже po-zhih morning утро u-tra evening вечер vye-chir night ночь noch’ day день dyen’ afternoon днем dnyom today Cегодня si-vod-nya yesterday вчера fchi-ra tomorrow завтра zaf-tra Monday Понедельник pa-ni-dyel’-nik Tuesday Вторник ftor-nik Wednesday Среда sri-da Thursday Четверг chit-vyerk Friday Пятница pyat-nit-sa Saturday Суббота su-bo-ta Sunday Воскресенье vas-kris-yen’-ye

146 Food & Drink

English Russian Pronunciation Столик на двоих, A table for two, please Sto-lik na dva-ikh pa-zhal-sta пожалуйста I’d like the menu Я бы хотел меню Ya-bih khat-yel min-yu I’m a vegetarian Я вегетарианец Ya vi-gi-ta-ri-a-nits I’d like a beer please Я бы хотел пиво Ya-bih khat-yel pi-va

Breakfast завтрак zaf-trak Essential Words and Phrases Lunch обед ab-yet Dinner ужин u-zhihn Eat есть yest’ Drink пить pit’ Cafe кафе ka-fe Restaurant ресторан ri-sta-ran I’d like the... Я бы хотел Ya-bih khat-yel Chicken курица ku-rit-sa Beef говядина gav-ya-di-na Fish рыба rih-ba Ham ветчина vit-chi-na Sausage (cooked) сосиска sa-sis-ka Cheese сыр sihr Egg яйцо yeyt-so Salad салат sa-lat Vegetable овощ o-vash Fruit фрукты fruk-tih Bread хлеб khlyep Vodka Водка vod-ka Beer Пиво pee-va Wine Вино vee-naw Please bring the bill Счёт sh-yot (Night)club Клуб kl-oob Bar Бар bar Where are you from? Откуда ты? aht-koo-da tee I support.... Я болею за ya bol-ye-yu za…

www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 147 In Case of Emergency

Around Russia

You must have a FAN ID before you travel to Russia to attend any of the World Cup matches. It is also essential for entering Russia, but if you lose it in Russia you can obtain In Case of Emergency a duplicate at one of the FAN ID distribution centres.

If you do not have a FAN ID, you will need to apply for a visa. For further information on the visa process, see the Russian Embassy website and the website of VFS Global who manage visa applications on behalf of the Russian Embassy.

If you’re travelling on a British passport issued since January 2017, you should make sure you’ve signed your passport before you travel. Some British nationals who haven’t signed their new passports Pre-tournament Guide have been denied entry into Russia.

The European Health Insurance card Unlike Brazil, football may not be (EHIC) isn’t valid in Russia, so travel typically associated with Russia, insurance is essential – even if you’re but putting on a show and hosting only coming for one match. Insurance global events most certainly is. Yet can save you a lot of money if you whilst it is increasingly westernised, get into difficulties. Make sure your Russia still has many differences insurance policy covers you for any from the UK, so the planning activities you plan to do. involved is not as simple as it may be when flying to more familiar Russia is a huge country; all of the 11 destinations that are also just three host cities are located in the west of or four hours away. the country, but the distances between some cities are vast. Make sure you plan Of course most people who visit your journeys between cities carefully. Russia have a wonderful time and experience no issues. You’ll need to register in every host city you visit within 24 hours of arrival. So make sure you have just as The registration is normally done by wonderful a time by following a few your hotel or guest house, but it’s your safety tips, when travelling around responsibility to make sure that this Russia and going to a match. has been done. Book accommodation Image © CC- Dmitry Dzhus

148 local police.local such andthe astheBritishEmbassy store useful numbers inyour phone, to make sure your phonewill work, and Check withyour mobilephoneprovider being blocked for anti-fraud reasons. where you’re goingtoavoid your card Let your credit/debit cardprovider know available tohelp visitors inEnglish. official volunteers ineachhostcity During thetournament, there will be to8am. fromtypically 11pm alcohol from shopsisrestricted, inhostcities.Thelocations saleof evening anddayofmatchesincertain glass containers will onthe bebanned sale andconsumption ofalcoholin tournament mayberestricted. The alcohol atevents withthe associated During thetournament, thesaleof hotel safes. and leave spareandvaluables cash in whatyou need transport. Onlycarry town centres, andwhenusingpublic railwayairports, stations,around pickpockets snatchers andbag at As inothermajorcities,beware of has registered your stay. in advance, andcheckthatyour hotel Don’t bring bags into the stadium – stadium bringbags the Don’t into detectors. areas, including metal passthroughexpect screening to hours before kick-off. You should beopen3 Stadiums typically will security checks andsearches. ground, gothrough the andto to Allow yourself get plenty oftimeto DaysMatch British Embassy can do. can British Embassy to Russia, there arethingsthe certain experience any difficulties on your trip weHow help? can Should you com/fcotravel facebook.com/fcotravel Facebook andTwitter feeds: www. travel adviceby signingup tothe FCO’s keepalso up-to-date withthelatestFCO FCO Twitter @FCOtravel service . You can abroad you askquestions can via the consular staffbefore you goorwhile If you have any enquiries for FCO checks tostadiums. close in hostcitiesandadditional security will include limits ontraffic movement measures.by enhancedsecurity This FIFA World Cup 2018will beprotected and othervenues with associated From 1June to17July 2018stadiums receive fines. heavy caught withforged tickets are likely to each ticket. Ticket touts andindividuals stadium. AFan-ID will belinked tothe themselves aren’t sufficient to enter a means maynotbevalid. Tickets in Tickets bought through any unofficial to beingrefused entry. even beingmildly intoxicated lead can Licensing laws are strictlyenforced; is intoxicated and/ordisorderly. right torefuse toanyone entry who venues andfan zonesreserve the venues (including alcohol).All match will beavailable withinthematch foodLicensed anddrinkrefreshments to thestadium onmatchdays. the authorities toknow thebestroute mediaMonitor local andadvicefrom match. atendofthe the be collected likely will these betaken from you, to www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup using #beontheball. or www.twitter.

149 In Case of Emergency In Case of Emergency

• Give you legal advice • Get you out of jail • Get you a ticket for the final!

Embassy staff and members of the Football Supporters Federation will also be available at each venue where England are playing. In Case of Emergency

Further information, travel advice and contact details are available on www. gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/russia.

Specific World Cup advice is available on gov.uk/Russia2018

In an Emergency

To call a public ambulance, dial 103 from any mobile phone, 03 from any landline, or 112 for emergency services.

The British Embassy Can For consular assistance, contact the Embassy in Moscow or the • Provide info on transferring money Consulate in St Petersburg. from the UK • Help you get medical attention if you British Embassy Moscow need it Smolenskaya Naberezhnaya 10 • Contact your friends and family 121099 Moscow • Put you in touch with lawyers if you Telephone number need them + 7 495 956 7200 • Issue a replacement travel (also for out of hours emergencies). document (subject to a fee) Office hours: • Contact you within 24 hours of being Monday to Friday 9am to 5pm in hospital/prison British Consulate General in St Petersburg The British Embassy Cannot Ul. Lafonskaya, 5 St Petersburg 191124 Telephone number • Pay your hotel, legal, medical or any +7 812 3203200 other bills (also for out of hours emergencies).

Image © CC- Mike Brocklebank Image © CC- Mike • Investigate a crime

150 Links Check List

Passports and FAN ID See the Getting to Russia pages for information on passport validity and the FAN ID requirements Comprehensive Travel Insurance See the Health and Health Insurance pages for information on health provisions in Russia, and to check your travel insurance documentation Prescribed Medication Check the Health and Health Insurance pages Local Currency and Credit/Debit Cards See the General Information on Russia pages for information about money and associated services at the tournament Accommodation See the appropriate City Guide for details, and make sure you have printed out any booking confirmations Driving Licence See the Driving in Russia pages and make sure you have an international driving permit if you wish to get behind the wheel Internal Travel See the Getting To and Getting Around pages for information on travel, and don’t forget your e-tickets and reservations Sign up for Travel Advice Alerts See gov.uk/Russia2018 for more details

www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 151 Notes THE 2018-2020 ENGLAND SUPPORTERS Notes TRAVEL CLUB MEMBERSHIP IS NOW OPEN!

The fantastic support of Travel Club members both home and away helped England reach this summer’s World Cup. Be part of the action again for the 2018-2020 campaign by renewing or upgrading now. England Supporters Travel Club members benefit from: - Exclusive access to away match tickets.* - A limited edition membership pack. - Discounts on home match tickets. - Priority access to up to 8 tickets for each England home game. - Loyalty caps for every England game attended.** Existing Travel Club members who renew before the 31st July will receive £10 off their renewal price (£5 for juniors). To renew or upgrade visit: www.englandsupporters.thefa.com/p/ england-supporters-travel-club 152 *One per member, subject to availability, terms and conditions apply ** Excluding tournaments. Tickets purchased through The FA only.

14364_WORLD_CUP_TRAVEL_GUIDE_AD_ESTC.indd 1 03/05/2018 14:07 14364_WORLD_CUP_TRAVEL_GUIDE_AD_ESTC.indd 1 will receive £10off their renewal price(£5 for juniors). Existing Travel Clubmembers whorenew before the31st July England Supporters Travel Clubmembersbenefit from: renewing or upgradingnow. Be partof theactionagain for the2018-2020 campaignby and away helpedEngland reachthissummer’s World Cup. The fantastic supportof Travel Clubmembersboth home ** Excluding tournaments. Tickets purchased through The FA only. *One per member, subject to availability, terms and conditionsapply england-supporters-travel-club To renew or upgradevisit: - Loyalty capsfor every Englandgame attended.** - Priorityaccessto upto 8tickets for eachEnglandhome game. - Discountsonhomematch tickets. - A limited editionmembershippack. - Exclusive accessto away match tickets.* TRAVEL CLUB MEMBERSHIP ISNOW OPEN! THE 2018-2020 ENGLAND SUPPORTERS www.englandsupporters.thefa.com/p/ www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup 03/05/2018 14:07

153 Notes Acknowledgements and Thanks

The Football Supporters’ Federation were checked and the words edited by would like to acknowledge the Garreth Cummins and Liam Thompson. support and assistance offered by the following organisations and Our enormous thanks must also go to individuals, among others, during the design guru Kate Lewis, along with Helen compiling of this guidebook. Precious and Tom Sinclair at Daykin and Storey, who were good enough to take our Her Majesty’s Government, notably the flexible approach to things like deadlines Foreign and Commonwealth Office and cheerfully in their stride, and take our Home Office; the UK Football Policing vaguely worded thoughts and turn them Unit; Football Supporters Europe, into actual smart looking designs. the local organising committees and tourism offices in the various Russian Along with those, there are a huge many Acknowledgements and Thanks host cities. people to whom we should offer our thanks, for key contributions whether We would also like to thank the many large or small. photographers whose images adorn the preceding pages – where possible these At the tournament itself, our thanks must have been credited on the page on which also go to the Fans’ Embassy team of they appear, the names often referring Kevin Miles, Thomas Concannon, Dave to the Flickr accounts from where they Tomlinson, Anwar Uddin, Matty Willis, were taken. Any such images have been Peter Daykin, Thomas Smith, Luc Jones, reproduced under the Creative Commons Ashley Brown, Ally Simcock. Thanks, too, licence, and are original works by those go to those who helped us along the named individuals. way in the qualifying campaign, including Thom Bradley, Andrew Fleming, Kerry This guidebook is published by the FSF – Fleming, Becky Gamester, Amy Cowles. www.fsf.org.uk Our appreciation must also be shown to Designed by Daykin and Storey Ltd – (big intake of breath): www.daykinandstorey.co.uk Funke Awoderu, Kelly Brown, Stuart Brown, Alexey Cherepanov at Visit Russia, Printed by Acorn Web Offset Ltd – Danielle Cohen, Tony Conniford, Alistair www.acornweb.co.uk Cummins, Roger Evans, Lauren Gresty, Robert Lindsay (no, not that one), Shona The production of this guidebook has of Matthew and Eliza Nicholas at Kindred, course been a team effort, undertaken Alex Mickelson, Chris Paouros, Tom over a period of many months. The Regan, Elli Rhodes, Harpreet Robertson, Executive Editor is Kevin Miles, meaning Joe Stokoe and Graham White. that in the spirit of Kevin Nugent’s international career he takes the credit for There will be some people who, in the a tap-in following good deal of work done rush to get this book off to print, we by his teammates. Chief among those is have forgotten to name. Sorry about Fans’ Embassy team member Thomas that. We’re still really grateful for all the Smith, who is responsible for finding most work you did, just obviously not enough of the facts and crafting a good many of to remember your names. Maybe try the words contained herein. Those facts doing a bit more next time.

154 Keep in Touch Some of the arrangements for fans in Russia had not been finalised when this book went to press. Additionally, there will also be all sorts of changes and new developments, not only up to kick-off, but during the life of the tournament itself. There are several ways in which you can make sure you’re bang up-to-date with all the latest news – and they’re all provided by the FSF free of charge.

The FSF Website: www.fsf.org.uk/worldcup

www.facebook.com/thefsf www.twitter.com/the_fsf

The E-Lions Email Newsletter: sign up at the website

FREE LIONS, the FSF’s England fanzine – a new edition for every game, subscribe via the website

www.facebook.com/FreeLions www.twitter.com/FSF_FreeLions

And During The Tournament Itself:

The FSF Fans’ Embassy 24-hour helpline: +44 7956 12 13 14

Text Message Updates: To register text “RUSSIA UPDATES” to +44 7956 12 13 14 The Free Lions England Fans’ Guide to Russia From the Football Supporters’ Federation, researched and written by fans, for fans

Nobody knows better the sort of information that football supporters need when navigating their way through a major tournament than football fans themselves, and it’s this ‘by fans, for fans’ ethos that’s made the FSF’s Free Lions fanzine a staple at matches for nearly two decades.

We’ve left no stone unturned in uncovering all the vital information that matchgoers will need at this summer’s World Cup, as well as cultivating contacts behind the scenes with key people from the tournament’s organisation. If we don’t already know the answer to your question, we’ll be able to point you in the direction of someone who will.

For many, Russia will be a trip into the unknown, with a different language (and a different alphabet, to boot), but fear not. This guidebook is based on hundreds of hours of painstaking research, including visits to snowbound host cities this winter, to make sure it contains exactly the sort of information you will need if you’re to have a safe and enjoyable trip to Russia this summer.

This all wouldn’t have been possible without the support and advice of the Foreign and Commonwealth Office and the Football Association, and once again we’re able to provide these 152 pages free of charge. Take heed of its advice and use it wisely in planning and enjoying the best possible tournament experience this summer.