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Carlisle District: Rural Masterplanning GILSLAND January 2014 Page 1 Carlisle District: Rural Masterplanning GILSLAND GILSLAND Figure 1: Location of Gilsland January 2014 Page 1 Carlisle District: Rural Masterplanning GILSLAND Settlement Profile: Strategic position Gilsland is 15 miles north east of Carlisle and 12 miles west of Hexham. Gilsland straddles the border between Cumbria and Northumberland, at the western extremity of Carlisle district and Cumbria County. Local matters are complicated by the presence of two county, two district and three parish councils. There is a county sign on the bridge in the middle of the village where Cumbria meets Northumberland. The majority of residents live on the Northumberland side and tend to 'look east' to Haltwhistle, Hexham and Newcastle rather than west to Brampton and Carlisle. The settlement is approached by minor roads off the A69T, which provides access to Carlisle and Hexham. From Gilsland, minor roads head off north and north west as well as south east to nearby Greenhead (in Northumberland). The village is rather isolated as apart from occasional farm houses, Gilsland is the northernmost settlement for about 50 miles, with large tracts of forestry with popular public footpaths, cycle trails and bridleways to the north eventually linking with Kielder Forest and forestry and moorland to the south. Bus services are plentiful from Easter to October based on tourist requirements, but in the winter months Gilsland is less well served by bus services, whilst the railway station has been closed for many years and is now converted to a private residence. Gilsland has strategic historical significance and is situated on Hadrian’s Wall. As there is evidence of the wall and the settlement is on the edge of dramatic landscape, this creates a tourism focus for the village. General description of settlement This description covers the Cumbria side of Gilsland. Gilsland developed as a gradual amalgamation of hamlets during the 19th Century. Some hamlets, although nominally Gilsland are still isolated from the rest of the settlement, such as the cluster of houses round the Red Beck Bridge area to the north west of Mumpshall Bridge, the main bridge over the River Irthing. The settlement has a picturesque and dramatic setting on the banks of the River Irthing and the Poltross Burn. The buildings nestle in the lower part of the valley and many of the older houses are constructed of local, distinctively-coloured, grey stone, also used for low walls in the village and along the roads. More recent housing in Hadrian’s Crescent overlooking the river and visible from the road north are pale render. There is therefore a variety of residential properties, including larger houses, smaller terraces and some bungalows in the more recent growth. It is surprising that at least the older part and bridge are not contained with a conservation area. The Red Beck Bridge area of the settlement comprises a broader range of materials and colour in the built form, with some bungalows and some 2-storey houses. From everywhere in the village, the expansive, wild landscape backdrop of open grassland and moor with groups of hilltop trees is visible. The distinctive landscape is as much the determining element of the character of the village as the built form. Houses, gardens and small areas of amenity space are all well-maintained and there is an impression of affluence on this side of the village as many of the houses are large. January 2014 Page 2 Carlisle District: Rural Masterplanning GILSLAND The primary school is located on the south western edge of the village and has a nursery. This is a relatively recent building, although Gilsland has had a school since the 1870’s. St. Mary Magdalene’s Church is set away from the main settlement near the Gilsland Spa Hotel, built in Early English style. The milecastle stands on the south bank of Poltross Burn, and a water mill within the village used the burn's water to power the grinding of corn throughout the 19th Century. Topographical and landscape context The settlement sits at the confluence of the Poltross Burn and River Irthing. The Poltross Burn is a tributary of the River Irthing, which rises on Denton Fell and flows north-east, joining the Irthing at Gilsland. The valley is wider at the confluence where Gilsland is sited, but steep sided up and downstream. The River Irthing rises in the hills in Border Forest Park, and flows south defining the border between Northumberland and Cumbria. The river flows into a sandstone gorge and after flowing through Gilsland, its course turns west and is lined with sites from Roman Britain, including Birdoswald Fort, at the top of the steep gorge carved out by the river. River floodplains come close to the settlement edges; in the north from the River Irthing and along the Poltross Burn and south of the settlement. The wider landscape is rugged, expansive, with hummocks and knolls. There are long- ranging views out across the grazed rough pasture and moor. Incidental clumps of trees, often on hill tops and tree-lined deep valleys form a contrast to the smooth grazed landscape. The glacial landform is still actively being eroded; there are distinctive glacial landforms. The woodland is deciduous and the native red squirrel is under threat from the grey. The area is geologically diverse, with limestone, sandstone and shale outcrops in river gorges and crags, while the igneous layer of the Whin Sill creates further rugged outcrops, contributing to the distinctive landscape of the Hadrian’s Wall country. The steep-sided valleys are heavily wooded with deciduous woodland. There are areas of coniferous plantation to the north and south. There is an area of ancient woodland to the north of the Red Beck Bridge settlement along the Red Beck. There are large tracts of open access land to the north and south of Gilsland. The entire settlement is contained within the landscape of county importance designation and the Hadrian’s Wall Military Zone World Heritage Site, with important relics runs south of the main part of the settlement, between the river and the school. The village is contained within the Hadrian’s Wall buffer zone. Biodiversity The River Irthing and its many tributaries provide a comprehensive network of woodland bisecting the less diverse rough grazing pasture. Areas of moorland provide further habitat variation. The valleys are mainly deciduous and there are Forestry Commission planted coniferous plantations in the wider area as well as peat bog. The Red Beck valley supports ancient woodland and there is more ancient woodland further up the Irthing valley managed by the Woodland Trust. January 2014 Page 3 Carlisle District: Rural Masterplanning GILSLAND The River Irthing valley is part of the River Eden and Tributaries Site of Scientific Interest (SSSI, nationally important for wildlife and geology) and designated Special Area of Conservation (SAC, internationally important for wildlife). The river supports trout salmon, and otter. The local area is a haven for wildlife including red squirrels, foxes, badgers and deer, while abundant birdlife includes curlews, dippers and sand martins. Tourist features/context The village provides an amenity centre for visitors to Hadrian’s Wall and other historical and landscape features in the area. It is well-placed for visiting the Eden Valley, the North Pennines, Northumberland National Park and the Scottish Borders. Gilsland itself contains many other interesting and historic buildings and sites, although without designated heritage status. The surrounding landscape is spectacular and bus tours pass through the village. The Roman fort of Birdoswald is nearby and there are numerous other castles in the area. A new metal bridge was built over the River Irthing at Willowford to provide a pedestrian route from Gilsland to Birdoswald. The Poltross Milecastle" nestles between a swift-running stream, and the Tyne Valley railway line. The area around the Gilsland and Greenhead villages has a network of quiet country lanes and forest tracks, perfect for those exploring the countryside on bike and The Hadrian’s Wall Cycleway and Pennine cycleway lead cyclists through Gilsland. There are opportunities for salmon and trout fishing on the rivers. Just north of the village is Gilsland Spa Hotel, located as a tourist attraction for the beautiful scenery, and the chalybeate and sulphur springs. It is owned by the Co-operative group and was established in 1901 as a convalescent home for Co-operative society members. The hotel’s large car park is available for visitors to the wooded grounds and the Popping stone, where Sir Walter Scott is said to have proposed. An hotel was built on this site in the 1740s, making the area a popular summer resort by the 1790s and providing a nucleus for the accumulation of guest-houses found in Gilsland. The opening of a railway station in the 1830s led to a further boom in tourism. There are B&Bs in the area. Settlement dependencies Gilsland Primary School serves the communities of Gilsland, Low Row and Upper Denton as well as wider afield. A school first opened in the village in 1874 to serve the village community. The Bridge Inn pub is at the road junction in this side of the village. There are no other services in the Cumbria side of the village. A mobile post office attends the village. There is a village store on the Northumbria side of the village that has now closed. Many locals earn their living from business associated with the visitors to the Hadrian’s Wall World Heritage Site, but depend on Carlisle, Hexham, Brampton and Haltwhistle to provide services. January 2014 Page 4 Carlisle District: Rural Masterplanning GILSLAND Comments on scope for new development1 The scope for new development needs to be based on two important, but different issues.
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