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Home , Aballava, AD 117, AD 122, Alauna (Maryport), Aspatria, Banna (Birdoswald)

View across the Solway from Bowness-on-Solway. Photo

Hadrian’s Wall Country boasts a spectacular ROMANS IN CUMBRIA coastline, stunning rolling countryside, vibrant cities and towns and a wealth of Roman forts, ’S WALL AND THE museums and visitor attractions. COASTAL DEFENCES The sites detailed in this booklet are open to the public and are a great way to explore Hadrian’s Wall and the coastal frontier in Cumbria, and to learn how the arrival of the Romans changed life in this part of the Empire forever.

Many sites are accessible by public transport, cycleways and footpaths making it the perfect place for an eco-tourism break.

For places to stay, downloadable walks and cycle routes, or to find food fit for an Emperor go to:

www.visithadrianswall.co.uk

If you have enjoyed your visit to Hadrian’s Wall Country and want further information or would like to contribute towards the upkeep of this spectacular landscape, you can make a donation or become a ‘Friend of Hadrian’s Wall’. Go to www.visithadrianswall.co.uk for more information or text WALL22 £2/£5/£10 to 70070 e.g. WALL22 £5 to make a one-off donation.

Published with support from DEFRA and RDPE. Information correct at time Produced by Anna Gray (www.annagray.co.uk) of going to press (2013). Designed by Andrew Lathwell (www.lathwell.com)

The European Agricultural Fund for Rural Development: Europe investing in Rural Areas visithadrianswall.co.uk Hadrian’s Wall and the Coastal Defences

Hadrian’s Wall is the most important Emperor in AD 117. Evidence suggests he structure built by the Romans in Britain. It inspected work on the Wall in AD 122. was constructed on the orders of Emperor Hadrian to mark the northwest limit of The Wall extended across the narrowest part the and to control the of the country − from Bowness-on-Solway in passage of people and goods across the west to Wallsend in the east – a the border. distance of 80 Roman miles or 73 modern miles (117 km). From In the AD , well the to before Hadrian built his Bowness, the Wall was famous Wall, the initially constructed of advanced turf and, along with the into northern Britain. coastal defences, may The first forts along have been the first part the Cumbrian coast of the frontier to be built were probably in response to threats from established at this time to native tribes. Hadrian’s Wall and the defences along the protect a chain of harbours that supplied the army. Left: Coin of Emperor Hadrian Cumbrian coast are part of the ‘Frontiers of Society of Antiquaries of Newcastle-upon-Tyne the Roman Empire’ World Heritage Site. The By the AD 80s the Romans controlled The military structures were highly physical evidence represents the legacy of one much of what is now but had to organised. Major forts were located 8.2 of the greatest and most influential Empires transfer troops to deal with problems Roman miles (11.5 km) apart. Between these along the Danube River. The army back were smaller fortlets (), one the world has ever seen and the remains to the isthmus between the Tyne and the Roman mile apart, with two small or are among the finest and best preserved Solway and constructed a line of forts lookout stations between every . anywhere in the world. along a military road – the . Communications were relayed using Hadrian’s decision to build the Wall was beacons and semaphore signals. The The ‘Frontiers of the Roman Empire’ World part of his policy of consolidating the cross-section drawing below reveals further Heritage Site was inscribed by UNESCO in 2005 Empire’s frontiers after he became defensive structures including the . and includes Hadrian’s Wall, the German and the in Scotland. NORTH SOUTH

Above: Section of Hadrian’s Wall near . Hadrian’s Military /Robert Smith Wall Road Vallum Cover image: Swarthy Hill milefortlet 21. Andrew Heptinstall Above: Cross-section through Hadrian’s Wall, based on an original illustration by English Heritage. Juliet Whitworth 1 As the coast was vulnerable to sea-borne of the Empire. As well as the military 1. Birdoswald () attack, the defences extended southwards presence, each of the major forts attracted (GR. NY615663) to . The coastal a civilian settlement that sprawled out from were not linked by a wall but consisted of one or more of the main gateways. One of the best preserved forts along separate forts, milefortlets and turrets Hadrian’s Wall. The partially excavated site clearly shows the outlines of the following the same defensive pattern as Hadrian’s Wall was abandoned when the fort, its gated entrances and internal new Emperor, Antoninus Pius, ordered an on the Wall, with a road linking them granaries. The east gate is one of the best together. The fort and port at Ravenglass advance into Scotland and the construction preserved on the Wall, with was connected by road to forts at of a new frontier made of turf, between a particularly fine section Hardknott (Mediobogdum) and the of Forth and Firth of Clyde – the of Hadrian’s Wall nearby (Galava). Antonine Wall. A generation later the army (easily accessible from the had returned to the line of Hadrian’s Wall. car park). West of the Following a major campaign north of the fort a section of the turf Above: Birdoswald Roman Fort wall is clearly visible, Andrew Heptinstall Wall under Emperor Severus, the whilst a magnificent Regiments from Dacia (modern Romania) northwest frontier was peaceful view over the Irthing and Thracia (modern Bulgaria) were based compared with other parts of the can be at Birdoswald in the early AD. Empire for much of the third and early gained by walking By the 5th century, the north granary Above: Running dog brooch had become the site of a large timber inlaid with blue enamel fourth centuries. up the hill from Tullie House Museum & Art Gallery Trust, the south gate. building, probably a hall, suggesting the How long the coastal system remained in Troubles began again in the fourth century continued use of the fort site as a base for a local warlord. use is uncertain. Many smaller structures as the Empire faced increasing instability on Left: Statue of Fortuna found in the commandant’s seem to have been abandoned shortly all frontiers. Centralised administration of house at Birdoswald Small visitor centre, gift shop and Juliet Whitworth after being built, but the main forts and Britain from Rome ended around AD 400. tearoom. Admission charge. www.visithadrianswall.co.uk/ some milefortlets were in use for much Evidence suggests many of the forts along birdoswald longer probably because of their Hadrian’s Wall were occupied into the fifth importance in supplying the frontier by sea. and sixth centuries possibly providing the power base for local warlords seeking The garrison included regiments of control and security in the absence of auxiliary soldiers recruited from different centralised power. Over time Hadrian’s Wall parts of the Empire. Along with merchants and the coastal defences fell into disuse, and traders who arranged supplies for the with the stones re-used in other buildings. army, the northwest would have been a Below: Willowford Bridge multicultural area reflecting the diversity Roger Clegg

2 Above: Reconstruction of Birdoswald Roman Fort www.visithadrianswall.co.uk 3 English Heritage 2. Banks East and 4. Carlisle ()

Pike Hill Signal (GR. NY396561) (GR. NY574647) The Roman fort of Luguvalium (‘fort The excavated foundations of this turret of Lugh’) at Carlisle was established in and a stretch of Roman wall are among AD 72 on a site between the and the first tangible remains of Hadrian’s Wall Tullie House Museum. It became the in Cumbria (if travelling west to east). To focus for a thriving civitas, complete the south, the line of the Vallum can be with forum, temples and baths. made out. A short walk away is Pike Hill Following the decline of centralised signal tower. This pre-dates Roman rule in Britain, Luguvalium Hadrian’s Wall but was incorporated into continued as an administrative centre, Above: Church with the Anglo-Saxon cross to the right. it as the Wall was being built – hence Anna Gray reverting to its Celtic name of Luel the offset alignment of the base stones. 3. Bewcastle (Fanum Cocidii) (later corrupted to ‘Carlisle’). The panoramic views from both sites are A second fort (Uxellodonum) was built stunning. (GR. NY565747) at . This was the largest fort on Free access. Adjacent car park. This was an fort, built six miles the Wall. It housed a 1000-strong cavalry (10 km) to the north of Hadrian’s Wall. regiment called the Ala – a crack Nearby Priory was founded c.1169 The most distinctive feature of this fort force of Roman soldiers trained for rapid and is largely built of stones from Hadrian’s Wall. Admission charge. is its hexagonal shape. Unusually, the deployment along this section of Hadrian’s www.visithadrianswall.co.uk/lanercost bath house is situated within the fort’s Wall. Above: Circular openwork southeast corner (normally it is found mount with Jupiter’s eagle at centre Lanercost Tearoom is adjacent to the priory and Hadrian’s Wall Path National Trail follows Tullie House Museum & Art Gallery Trust, Carlisle outside the fort’s perimeter). A has a large car park. the south bank of the river Eden in Carlisle regiment from Dacia (Romania) and is accessible through Bitts Park. Below: Reconstruction of Pike Hill signal tower was based here in the . Based on an illustration by English Heritage, Tullie House Museum and Art Gallery is built redrawn by Juliet Whitworth. The fort has been the focus of partly over Luguvalium. The new underground community life in Bewcastle Roman Frontier Gallery tells the story of 400 for 2000 years with a church, years of occupation on the Roman Empire’s most motte and castle and northerly frontier. The interactive and family- a farm all located within friendly displays invite visitors to consider the the perimeter. effect of Roman rule on Britain and the impact of constructing a frontier on native people Free access. through comparisons with modern frontiers and barriers across the globe. Other Roman finds Above: Cumbria Photo St Cuthbert’s Church dates to the from Luguvalium are on display elsewhere in the Carlisle Cathedral is built largely of Roman 13th century. Its graveyard holds one museum. Admission charge. Café and gift shop. stones taken from the fort, which contrast of the finest Anglo-Saxon crosses www.visithadrianswall.co.uk/tulliehouse starkly with the red sandstone of later in Britain, referred to by the scholar also straddles over the fort building work. The Cathedral was built Nikolaus Pevsner as one of the and Roman stonework can be seen in its in the 11th century and the choir rebuilt greatest achievements of its date in masonry. First constructed at the end of in the 13th century. At its eastern the whole of Europe. Dating from the the 11th century, the castle was a major end is the largest and most complex late 7th century, the cross has runic strongpoint on ’s border with decorated Gothic window in inscriptions, ornamental reliefs and Scotland and saw many and England, which retains much of its three figures depicting Christ, John battles, the most important being original stained glass. Free access; the Baptist and probably St John the during the second Jacobite uprising donations welcomed. Evangelist. Free access; donations against George II of in www.visithadrianswall.co.uk/ welcomed. Car park in front of 1745. Admission charge. carlislecathedral the church. www.visithadrianswall.co.uk/ Left: A relief of Mercury found in Stanwix, Carlisle carlislecastle Tullie House Museum & Art Gallery Trust, Carlisle Right: with its finely carved stonework 4 www.visithadrianswall.co.uk 5 3 A74(M) Bewcastle ROMANS IN CUMBRIA •Longtown Gretna• Birdoswald 1 • HADRIAN’S WALL AND THE Banks 2 A74 8 Lanercost A69 • COASTAL DEFENCES Bowness-on-Solway• • Priory 5 7 44 A689 •Brampton • •Beaumont AONB Burgh-by-• 6 Sands 4 h 9 A69 r t F i •Kirkbride Carlisle 43 y B5307 a w l • North o A595 S 42 AONB • B5302 3 • A74(M) Bewcastle B5301 M6 3 B5305A74(M) A6 Bewcastle B5300 •Alston A596 A595 • •Longtown Gretna• Gilsland • Birdoswald 10 B5299 •Longtown 1 • Banks Gretna• 2 Birdoswald Gilsland A74 1 • 11 8 Lanercost A69 Banks• Bowness-on-Solway• Haltwhistle2 • •Port Carlisle A74 Priory 8 A69 A594 5 Lanercost • Solway Coast Bowness-on-Solway•7 44 Roman site descibedA689 •BramptonArea designated as a Haltwhistle Drumburgh• •Beaumont•Port Carlisle1 Priory AONB Burgh-by-• in booklet World Heritage Site A596 6 5 SolwaySands Coast A689 •Brampton A66 9 Drumburgh• 47 A69 44 t h BassenthwaiteAONB •Beaumont i r • •Kirkbride Burgh-by-•Other Roman sites Area of Outstanding •F Lake Carlisle 43 6 y B5307 Sandswith public access 41 Natural Beauty (AONB) a 9 4 A69 w t h l Silloth• i r •Kirkbride o F B5292 A595 RomanB5307 site withCarlisle 43 S A595 y a 42 AONB w Keswick A66 A5091no public access Beckfoot• l Silloth• • North Pennines o B5302 A595 S Wigton• AONB Moresby• Hadrian’s Wall 42 Whitley Castle B5301 12 A5086 Beckfoot• A591 M6 B5302 (course of) A6 • B5305 Wigton• B5300 Crummock •Alston A596 Roman road Whitley Castle Water A595B5301 (course of) M6 39 Allonby• A6 Ennerdale Ullswater B5305 •CleatorAspatria• Moor B5300 •Alston 10 Water B5299 A596 A595 SCALE Allonby• 0 2 4 6 miles (approx) • •Egremont Aspatria•T R I C T 0 2 4 6 8 10 km (approx) 11 D I S B5299 10 E copyright and database (2013) Survey data © Crown Contains Ordnance Maryport• K P A R K L A N A L M6 A594 I O Hadrian’s Wall Country can be explored by train, 11 A T N Roman site descibedbus or cycle. Go to www.visithadrianswall.co.ukArea designated as a A595 1 Rydal Maryport• in booklet World Heritage Site A596 Wastwater Hardknott for timetables and journey planning38 information. A66 A594 Roman Fort •Ambleside Cockermouth• Other Roman sites Roman siteArea descibed of Outstanding Area designated as a ay 1 Workington• • le Railw Lake skda 41 in booklet World Heritage Site A596 & E •Dalegarth with public access Natural Beauty (AONB) lass • ng ve A66 Ra BassenthwaiteA593 Above: Roman auxiliary soldier, c. AD 125 IRISH B5292GreenCockermouth• Roman• site with Other Roman sites Area of Outstanding English Heritage SEAWorkington•A595 Lake 41 Ravenglass• 13 • Keswick A66 A5091no public access with public access Natural Beauty (AONB) 6 • Coniston• 7 Coniston B5292 Windermere Roman site with Moresby• LoweswaterA595 Water Hadrian’s Wall

12 A5086 37 A591 Keswick A66 (course of) A5091no public access Derwentwater • • Whitehaven Crummock Ullswater Roman road Moresby• Water Loweswater Hadrian’s Wall

12 A5086 A591 (course of) 39 (course of) Ennerdale Buttermere Ullswater Derwentwater • Moor • Whitehaven SCALE Ullswater Roman road Water 0 2 4 6 miles (approx) (course of) 39 St Bees• •Egremont T R I CEnnerdaleT Buttermere Ullswater0 2 4 6 8 10 km (approx)36 •Cleator DMoorI S E Water SCALE K P A R K L A N A L 0 2M6 4 6 miles (approx) St Bees• I O •EgremontA T I C T N I S T R 0 2 4 6 8 10 km (approx) A595 D Grasmere Rydal K E Wastwater Hardknott P A R K 38 L A N A L M6 Roman Fort I O •Ambleside A T Seascale• Railway N M6 kdale A595 Rydal & Es •Dalegarth Grasmere lass • ng Hardknott ve Wastwater 38 Ra Eskdale •Ambleside IRISH Green A593 Roman Fort •Windermere

SEA 13 Seascale• Railway Ravenglass• •Muncaster kdale & Coniston•Es •Dalegarth lass • ng Coniston ve Ra Eskdale Windermere IRISH Water A593 34 •Windermere Green 37 SEA 13 Ravenglass• •Muncaster Coniston• Coniston Windermere Water 37

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34 5. Beaumont 6. Burgh-by-Sands () 8. Bowness-on-Solway (Maia)

(GR. NY348593) (GR. NY329591) (GR. NY223627) The medieval church of St. Mary’s stands The cavalry fort of Aballava underlies the The Roman fort of Maia (meaning ‘larger’) on the site of a 12th century Norman eastern end of Burgh-by-Sands. It was lived up to its name as the second largest motte and bailey castle, which in turn was built to guard a major crossing point fort on Hadrian’s Wall. It was built to built on top of a Roman turret. The square over the , and garrisoned guard an important crossing point over building stones of the church are clearly by regiments from northern Europe and the estuary (the Bowness wath). The north Roman in origin. Inside are information North Africa. The road follows the original wall has since been lost to the sea, but the panels describing the history of the site east−west access route through the fort. original east−west passage through the and surrounding area. St Michael’s Church incorporates Roman masonry fort is followed by the present-day road. A Roman road heading south to Kirkbride Free access. Donations welcomed. in its construction. The 14th century tower was built to provide a place of refuge for inhabitants Above: Drumburgh Castle (not open to the public). has been identified in the field opposite Below: Stages in the development of Beaumont during Scottish raids. Note its thick walls, heavy Roger Clegg Juliet Whitworth the church. grid-iron door, Roman diamond hatching on internal stones and the curious animal carvings Outline of Roman turret 7. Drumburgh (Congabata) Roman Fort set into the wall. A series of interpretation panels in the tower undercroft explain the history and (GR. NY265598) heritage of this fascinating village. Free access; donations welcomed. A small fort at the western end of Burgh Burgh-by-Sands is strongly associated with Marsh was built to guard the Sandwath Edward I (the ‘Hammer of the Scots’). The ailing crossing over the Solway. Nothing remains king had made his way to Burgh-by-Sands to cross of the fort today as the stones were looted St Michael’s over the Solway Firth to Scotland, but died on 7 to build Drumburgh Castle. Church July 1307. His body was laid to rest in St Michael’s Church before being taken to Westminster The stones of the Pict Wal wer Kings for burial. A monument was built on the spot Arms where he died (GR NY326609). pulled down to build Drumuygh. Norman motte & For the Wal ys very nere yt. Above: Outline of Roman fort of Maia overlying bailey castle present-day Bowness-on-Solway. Based on an original John Leland, c.1542, Vol. vii, fol. 69 map by Paul Austen. The imposing edifice of Drumburgh Castle once Juliet Whitworth commanded extensive views over Burgh Marshes. The pavilion at The Banks marks the western The original was built almost entirely end of Hadrian’s Wall Path National Trail. of stones from the fort and Hadrian’s Wall. See if you can spot the two Roman altars from the road. St Michael’s Church lies outside the southern boundary of the fort and is built of Roman masonry. The original bells were stolen by Scottish raiders in the 17th century. Under pursuit, the thieves jettisoned the bells in the Church of St Mary Solway Firth where they lie to this day. In retaliation, Bowness villagers took the bells from two other churches in Scotland, which can be seen at the back of the nave. The highly ornate Norman font is a church treasure worth close inspection. Free access; donations welcomed.

Above: The Moorlands Pan bearing the names of Maia (Bowness) and Coggabata (Drumburgh) Above: Ceramic head of a female British Museum found at Burgh-by-Sands www.visithadrianswall.co.uk 8 Tullie House Museum & Art Gallery Trust, Carlisle 9 9. Kirkbride 10. Swarthy Hill 11. Maryport () each officer commanding a regiment for three to four years before moving on to a (GR. NY229574) (Milefortlet 21) (GR. NY038373) new posting. (GR. NY067400) The timber fort at Kirkbride marked the This large fort is believed to have been The adjacent Senhouse Roman Museum contains western end of the Stanegate (an earlier This is the only site along the Cumbrian a major supply base for the northern the largest collection of altars (currently 23) ever Roman road established about AD 105 coast where the layout of a milefortlet is frontier. The fort and its large civilian recovered from a single site, with most dedicated under Emperor ) and was linked by settlement to the north are located on to Jupiter. A watchtower provides extensive views clearly visible. The turf and ditches over the fort. Admission charge. road to the fort at Bowness-on-Solway. are easily recognisable, along with a road a hill with spectacular views across the www.visithadrianswall.co.uk/senhouse The fort probably fell into disuse when cutting east−west through the centre. Solway to Scotland and the . Hadrian’s Wall was built. The site of the original Roman port is Free access. Follow directional signs from not known but it may have been to Kirkbride Church, dedicated to St Bride the cycle path then continue along the the northeast in a now silted-up inlet. (or St Bridget), is likely to be of Anglo-Saxon footpath to the milefortlet. origin. It is sited over the west gate of the fort Alauna at Maryport was connected by and contains Roman masonry in its construction. Below the milefortlet are the remains of the road to Derventio, the Roman fort near Opposite the church is a narrow gulley or ‘wynd’ saltpans. There were many Cockermouth. cutting through the western ramparts of the saltpans along the north Cumbrian coast, but the Roman fort. This would have been used to bring ones at Crosscanonby (built c.1650) are among Around 1870, a series of altars were supplies into the fort from ships anchored in the the best preserved in England. Free access to site. unearthed from pits outside the fort. bay. Free access; donations welcomed. Crosscanonby Nature Reserve is a diverse mix Recent excavations have revealed that of habitats rich in bird and insect life. Circular walk Above: Fine example of a Below: Reconstruction of Milefortlet 21. the altars had been re-used for the around site with interpretation panels. Free access Roman samian bowl found near Maryport Based on an original illustration by Kate Wilson foundations of a large timber building Anna Gray Juliet Whitworth to site with adjacent car parking. constructed on the highest point of the hill. The altars were dedicated to Jupiter, king of the Gods, by the commanders of the regiment garrisoned at the fort and probably came from a nearby temple. The altars may form part of an annual series dedicated by officers and provide a fascinating insight into the multicultural nature of the Empire and the Above: Inscription to Jupiter. It reads: ‘To Jupiter, best, career paths greatest, Capitolinus, for the welfare of Antoninus Augustus Pius. Postumius Acilianus, prefect of the First of its senior Cohort of Dalmatians [set this up]’ officers and Senhouse Roman Museum administrators. Officers at Alauna came from Italy, Provence (southern France), Noricum (modern Austria), North Africa and possibly Spain with

Left: Altar to Jupiter N discovered at Maryport in 1870 Juliet Whitworth Above: Aerial view of the fort at Maryport English Heritage 10 www.visithadrianswall.co.uk 11 13. Ravenglass (Glannaventa) Little remains of the fort itself other than some faint earthworks. However, recent (GR. SD088959) excavations are revealing further evidence Ravenglass was an important Roman port of Roman occupation at this site. and supply centre for the inland forts. Free access. To reach the bath house, From here a road ran inland, connecting cross the over the railway and the forts at Hardknott (Mediobogdum) turn left on reaching the private road. and Ambleside (Galava). These forts may The bath house is a quarter of a mile have been built to control mining for lead further along. and silver in the mountains of the , with Ravenglass providing the Nearby Muncaster Castle stands on an elevated port facilities for export by sea. The fort at platform, thought to have been the site of a Whitley Castle (Epiacum) near Alston was Roman signal station. Admission charge. similarly constructed to control the supply www.visithadrianswall.co.uk/muncaster of lead and silver from mines in the North The relative remoteness of Hardknott Fort (Mediobogdum) on its spectacular rocky mountain Pennines (www.epiacumheritage.org). platform has helped preserve many of the Above: Reconstruction of Ravenglass is best known today for its internal features, with the headquarters building, the Roman fort at Moresby commandant’s house, bath house and parade Juliet Whitworth bath house, the walls of which stand ground all clearly visible. The fort was connected nearly 13ft/4m high and are the highest to Galava at Ambleside by a Roman road over the 12. Moresby (Gabrosentum) of any Roman domestic building in tortuous Hardknott and Wrynose passes. northern Britain. Free access. (GR. NX982211) St Bridget’s Church lies just outside the east gate Below: Plan of Ravenglass bath house from the 1881 excavation. Situated to the north of Whitehaven, of the Roman fort, replacing an earlier Anglo- Re-drawn by Juliet Whitworth Gabrosentum occupies a classic fort site Saxon church; the solitary chancel arch being all formed by a low promontory overlooking that remains of the earlier structure. the sea to the west. Regiments from Nearby is Moresby Hall with its imposing classical frontage added around 1620. This was the home Thrace (modern Bulgaria) and northern of the Moresby family and then of the influential France were stationed here. The ramparts Fletcher family between 1576 and 1721. The are still visible in the field to the west original hall was built of stone taken from the fort. of the church. Moresby Hall is now a country guesthouse. Free access. Below: St Bridget’s Church at Moresby with old chancel Below: Roman soldiers re-enactment scene Hypocaust arch in foreground. Changing area English Heritage Anna Gray

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walls found in 1881 but now buried

Below: Ravenglass bath house Peter Hughes

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