MARCH 2017 ALL YOU THE MONTHLY GUIDE TO CAN DO IN THE CITY Venice ®

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www.where-venice.com CITY GUIDE

LIKE A SCENE FROM A MOVIE

GIFT IDEAS OUT OF TOWN NATURE, HISTORY AND SPAS

SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | ENTERTAINMENT | SHOPPING | DINING | MAPS Museo Di Torcello

TORCELLO Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta

Chiesa di Santa Fosca

100 m SINA O R A L EL D A D TRA Venice March 2017 S

ISOLA DEI LAGHI 12 FOCUS the guide

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P I Z M Chiesa di Santa Caterina E Z N O TA D E L P IZ Z second Italian Chanel BURANO O CAMPALTO Fragrance and Beauty 100 m MESTRE boutique

ISOLA CARBONERA 34 DINING Located just steps from the Biennale, the Serra dei Giardini is a unique 44 SIGHTSEEING place to dine and relax SAN FRANCESCO DEL DESERTO

Convento di San Francesco 44 SIGHTSEEING del Deserto & MUSEUMS Parco San Giuliano The Casa dei Tre Oci is ISOLA DI TESSERA

a new exhibition space ISOLA SAN GIACOMO IN PALUDE dedicated to visual arts

52 ENTERTAINMENT Save an Extra 10% Relax and rejuvenate TREPORTI Take this page to our Guest Services to at the unique Spa receive an extra 10% off outlet prices. boasting a spectacular SHOPPING view on the Island ALL YOU MARCH 2017 THE MONTHLY GUIDE TO 22 CAN DO IN THE CITY Venice ® ISOLA CAMPALTO of Roses

STR A DA CO LOR ATA C A L L E A N G E L O O Z A N T I O L N VE ON ASA C

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Z I R O IE Immerse yourself in V RO MURANO A CAMPO B Chiesa dei Santi E L L SAN BERNARDO CAVALLINO TREPORTI A TO C S Maria e Donato RI F C L O E D N E D LL O CAMPO A CA R M SAN DONATO IST E E M N T T

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SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | ENTERTAINMENT | SHOPPING | DINING | MAPS This month's round-up of shows, ISOLA SAN GIORGIO 58 ESSENTIALS COVER art exhibitions, concerts VIA FAUSTA A Ponte dei Sospiri 24 LUXURY TOP BRANDS Information and tips V I A L E D E L L A L I B E R TA’ Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

breathtaking view E A and performances. Key looks for the season, from D ON to experienceParco T the best CANOSSIAN Monastero "Villa Groggia" LA RO GA Ospedale Fatebenefratelli DE Carmelitane Scalze R E A L L A SA N G IROLAMO San Raffaele Arcangelo E AL FONDAMENTA SACC L C OVE AL U Rio di Sant'Alvise C C UOVE ALL E N E LARGA PEN CAMPO

ASE N CAS SANT'ALVISE

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fashion and footwear to jewellery AL A FOND. O C PIAVE T Rio della Sensa C A L AL C that VeniceE has to offer ARLO COLET LE DEL F IT MEN P TI Santa Maria delle Penitenti CA

O L ONDA FOND R F O N D A M E F O E F N D A N D E E M E AME R N E N TA TA F O N L D E L PIAV NT S A L E D A M E N TA FON A N G I R O L A M O G C A CA DA Madonna dell'Orto CA P U Z Z I MENT NN S E AR N A L A E N MAD R S A . EG ON C NA IO F O N D A M E N TA B D ELL' ORT San Girolamo O and accessories. AT T E L L O 12 VENICE MOVIE MAP ARIE SAN MICHELE Ri o FO CAMPIELLO della N DAM E BECCDEL SCARLATTO FPonteON dei Tre Archi M E E L NT DA adon A D F O N D A M CO MENTA SA CANNAREGIOCAMPO FO na N LLE CAMPO E N TA M I S NDA DEI MORI TA dell'O R CA FONDAMENTA CA DI GHETTO NUOVO ME INI E R NT N A DEI E O I C O R D I GI T T rt OB T M o TI E A SA ORI BE Canale di Cannaregio R H IO N A NAREGIO VE G H RO A CAMPIELLO E C , Rio della Misericordia ON L C E TI DE LA LAVANDER C Museo Ebraico T AL V E C E VECCHI L S E LARG LA CERERIA I, FON Discover and identify those A AL T TE N San Giobbe C E D DE AR S A F ET M E CALL A EN COR M À RS TE R LA CALL CA NOV E E LLE PERLERI FA D

CA L T N E E L F A LL E MA O Palazzo Nani IO IS A N F ERÀ N I C O R T D A M E N M N DAMENTA TREV ordia E IA S L CA E RIO L ic TA BAZ NA NA CA L M I S ’A RI E O Rio L E D L SAVORG C FON.DA ALL d DE L E DEL e Servi E CAT E P CALL I IST OR NIELE CANAL R IC O R D I Abazia O E R CATEN N NTA INI E E CAMPIELLO A R L A CAMP S N della Misericordia A CALLE L SAN MARZIALE A C A A G C RIO TERÀ S. LEONARDO RIO FO S O places most frequently captured CAMPO T ND UN ERÀ L F A Chiesa dei Gesuiti “FIVE STAR” E SAN LEONARDO N D IA I E F A le della Miser 36 D LE LA OND MENTA TRA LL R L NUOVA ISOLA MB MAD O CAMPO CA LO D IC ALE AMENT CA Palazzo Labia O ER ana FONDAMENTA Parco C NA S SAFFA I i RO E C A Salone del Tiepolo M l LL A P . A D Savorgnan San Leonardo, D OL to ES C N N R E S DEL TRONCHETTO P I DI I A s O I NTA R ET TE CA' N FO R o E E O L RÀ TA C L CAMPO U A CH La Maddalena VE AT Q E RIN IE CAMPO Ap C AL E SA CHE A L N IS A C SAN GEREMIA DR i AL Santa Fosca OL L RA FO DEI GESUITI LE C A A NDAM

San Marcuola C MI A NOVA STRADA L A D CAMPIELLO N E ENT L E A ZE E L C D STAY IN TOUCH E I C CAMPO E N L A DEL REMER Sant ALL A T EL FOND. C DEL TRO R LL A F ’ SAN MARCUOLA EN L San Geremia A M ei LE S.AND A E G CA FON I AGN AZ LA H PRIUL S N AN REA ET G Casino E S RGA D ER C d AL A D SP MAP PAGEST O 62-63 LE V T A A and portrayed in the history VA o A PI ICO O i M NCH DI OLT L E EN L M I BO RESTAURANTS VE di Venezia I E I AI S.Marcuola R E T RD D C MENT C TERI E People Mover Venezia ETT FOND. S A D C A L NI C CAMPO DE LE E NO C e H A IA AL I RTOR VENI O d LE O A I L I VE n O E D » Museo LE ERBE Z ER L ALL VALL À LISTA a DE OND R r A C R L F Z e CAMPO G C L I l A FO O ISOLA DELLE TRESSE a Civico ST DE LA CARITA’ CO ETT TE n UL NDAMENT U olc a A I P I O R C C D E ALL

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O N O C YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936® ® WELCOME TO VENICE whereMAGAZINE Venice www.where-venice.com WHERE ITALIA SRL Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 [email protected] www.where-venice.com PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Andrea Jarach ([email protected])

EDITORIAL (PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL)

MANAGING DIRECTOR Daniele Misrachi

EDITORIAL COORDINATION Alessandra Finzi ([email protected])

MAGAZINE EDITORIAL STAFF Carey Bernitz, Elena Binda, Simona P.K. Daviddi, Elena Peverata, Stefania Vida

MAGAZINE ART DIRECTION Elisabetta Giudici, Joy Lacanlale

WEB EDITORIAL STAFF Chiara Fonzi (coordination), Fabio Lancini (art direction), Giulia Minero (editor) [email protected] WHAT A TOURIST! Angelina Jolie lived in Venice for several months while shooting ‘The Tourist’. In order to have a ‘little privacy’, she rented the entire Palazzo Mocenigo where she ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Where® Italia, Shutterstock stayed with her children and Brad Pitt. Ah…those were the days! CARTOGRAPHY CITY MAP: © Where Italia srl. - 2016 - Original Map by Urban File - www.urbanfile.org Fast Trains Network Map by Dmitry Goloub This year, the month of March offers Venice a relatively peaceful time. MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo, Isa Although the influx of tourists never completely stops, the calendar at Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni (coordination "Welcome to Italy") this time of year means that there is a long break between the festivities

PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT of Carnival (which ended on 28 February) and the Easter celebrations, COORDINATOR Paola Grilli which fall in April in this year. This could be a good time to enjoy a less ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto crowded Venice, enhanced by longer days and a milder climate. In fact, if VENICE ADVISOR Stefano Traine (T: 340 3026288) everything goes according to plan and the weather is on your side, you

HOTEL RELATION MANAGER Maria Granata will find yourself enjoying a city that is so beautiful that you’ll have the ([email protected]) impression of being permanently on a film set. CUSTOMER SERVICES Moreno Gallo, Cristina Garbini, Maria Grazia Rubino You can limit yourself to enjoying the marvels that nature and one-

REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 thousand-five-hundred years of history have put together for you or, WHERE® ITALIA SRL, ISCRITTO AL ROC No. 20182 DEL 14 SETTEMBRE 2010 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH you can opt for a more organized itinerary and have fun discovering PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) all the views, squares, streets and canals that have been used as movie

Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to locations. If you choose the latter, we have already done some of the apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next issue. work for you. This month’s Focus offers an overview of the feature films shot in these places. Test your knowledge and have fun seeing how IN ITALY Where® is also published in Milan by Where® Italia, in Rome by Tourist Media srl many titles you remember! and in Naples by IES Comunicazione srl As spring approaches, sailing to the islands becomes an even greater EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS WHERE® VENICE È DISTRIBUITO SOLO NELLE CAMERE DEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI pleasure. Don’t miss a visit to Murano, Burano and Torcello, three VENEZIA E DEL VENETO. WHERE® VENICE IS AVAILABLE ONLY IN THE ROOMS OF THE MOST EXCLUSIVE destinations associated with Venetian craftsmanship: glass, lace and an HOTELS IN VENICE AND IN VENETO. absolutely fabulous gastronomic experience await you only 30-minutes MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP EXECUTIVE away by vaporetto. CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III Finally, keep an eye out for unplanned happenings (also listed on our PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris IV MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning website). As with most Italian cities, Venice loves organizing spur-of-the- Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the moment festivities to welcome spring. information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.

Published in association with Elena Binda, Editor Where® magazine and the where® logo are registered MVP trademarks of Morris Morris Visitor Publications Visitor Publications.

www.wheretraveler.com 3 [ SIGHTSEEING]

Top in town MORE AT PAGE 45 and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures.

PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it is superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. Canal Grande DANIMISRA

Piazza San Marco with the Basilica and the Tower Ponte di Rialto PHOTO ©

EDITOR'S TIP Free subscription on www.where-venice.com/ItaliaLuxury Palazzo Ducale Dear Reader, as you can see from reading our magazine, the editorial staff of Where® has done its best to accompany you on your discovery of Venice. Have we BASILICA DI SAN MARCO lined on both sides by shops. It includes as building - is enclosed in a cylinder perforated been helpful? Please let us know what you consider most This is the most important Catholic church many as 120 steps. like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, interesting or let us have your feedback if you’d like more in the city, and one of the most important combined with the view that can be enjoyed on in-depth information. This will help us to offer you an monuments in Italy. The original church CANAL GRANDE reaching the top, is well worth a visit. even better service in this and the other cities where dates back to before the year 1000; inside, Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful we are present! a triumphant array of domes and transepts, street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the TEATRO LA FENICE mosaics and gold, marble and numerous main waterway of Venice. Lined on both Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored Fill out the questionnaire at www.where-venice.com/ other treasures. sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, to its former splendour (the last time was ItaliaLuxury and as a sign of our gratitude you will receive churches, hotels and other public buildings, between 1996 and 2003), for centuries a FREE SUBSCRIPTION to the rich digital version of our PONTE DI RIALTO it offers a journey back into history, evoking La Fenice theatre has been Venice's principal NEW MAGAZINE ITALIA LUXURY, offering an exclusive This is the oldest and most beautiful of the pomp and splendor of the ancient stage for world-class opera, music, theater, overview of Italian treasures. the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Serenissima. and ballet. Receiving "Italia Luxury" on a regular basis will enable you Originally built during medieval times as to stay connected to the country that you love, ensuring a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE that you are always updated about lifestyles and trends, point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of DI SAN ROCCO cultural programs, events and new openings. It’s a great market, it is still a hub of commerce and is Palazzo Contarini - an exquisite, late Gothic A Renaissance complex consisting of a church way to help you plan (or fantasize…) about your next visit.

4 WHERE VENICE I MARCH 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 5 WHERE NOW | HOT DATES MARCH

UNTIL MONDAY

AUTHENTIC VENETIAN ARTISANSHIP

Hosted at one of the Lagoon’s most spectacular house museums, this is your last chance to visit the exhibition 27 dedicated to Venice’s famous Cadorin dynasty. Three generations of artists, architects, sculptors, restorers, musicians and photographers working in Venice between the 18th and 19th centuries and establishing themselves as a constant presence on the thriving Venetian art scene are showcased here. More than 200 works are on display in the truly spectacular setting of the Palazzo Fortuny house museum.

The Cadorin bottega. A dynasty of Venetian artists Palazzo Fortuny San Marco, 3958 (Campo San Beneto) fortuny.visitmuve.it

MARCH HOT DATES Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating tradition, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates. © EGIUDICI_WHEREITALIA

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FROM FRIDAY 24 CARMEN, THE PRICE OF FREEDOM ► This comic opera in four acts by Georges Bizet was performed in Paris in 1875 for © PAOLO SOLARI BOZZI, KAP HOPE, SCORESBYSUND, EAST GREENLAND, 2016 the first time. It will be staged SATURDAY-SUNDAY © CARSTEN EGEVANG, WEST GREENLAND, THULE, 2014 at the Teatro la Fenice this evening under the direction THE FORCE OF NATURE of Calixto Bieito. Distinguished ▲ The appeal of the Arctic region, pianist and conductor Myung- an awareness of topics related to Whun Chung will conduct environmental sustainability and the performance. Veronica 25-26 climate change are the themes explored Simeoni and Roberto Aronica FROM THURSDAY in ‘Arctic. The Final Frontier’. The exhibition features 120 black and white will appear in the title roles of images by Paolo Solari Bozzi (Rome, 1957), Ragnar Axelsson (Iceland, 1958) and Carmen and Don José. This AMERICAN DANCERS ON TOUR Carsten Egevang (Denmark, 1969), three masters of photo reporting whose unusual interpretation is based ► Founded in 1985 in New York by choreographer David Parsons and light designer work explores the landscapes and people of Greenland, Siberia, Alaska and on its last season’s successful Howell Binkley, Parsons Dance embodies a mixture of athletics, acrobatics and Iceland. Until 2 April. version. Until 4 June. poetry. Boasting more than thirty years of performance, the company has gained The exhibition is set against the spectacular backdrop of "Casa dei Tre Oci", a international acclaim and has become one of the best-loved groups on the old splendid example of early 20th century Venetian architecture (see page 44). Carmen, Georges Bizet 16 continent. A leader of contemporary and post-modern dance, its creations combine the expressiveness Teatro La Fenice of the body in combination with narrative elements and dramatic cues, engaging the emotions of the Arctic. The Final Frontier San Marco, 1965 (Campo San audience and captivating them with these personal interpretations. Until Saturday 18. Casa dei Tre Oci - Giudecca - Fondamenta delle Zitelle, 43 Fantin) Open daily 10am-6pm (closed on Tues). www.treoci.org www.teatrolafenice.it Parsons Dance Teatro La Fenice (Teatro Malibran) - San Marco, 4387. www.teatrolafenice.it

WEDNESDAY PEGGY GUGGENHEIM TUESDAY CELEBRATES SURREALIST ART ◄ This week marks the opening of an exhibition SHOWCASING dedicated to the work of Rita Kernn-Larsen. Little JEWELRY known outside her native Denmark, Kern-Larsen, ► The Museo del Gioiello (Jewelry 1 a prominent Danish surrealist artist, whom Peggy Museum) in Vicenza is the first Guggenheim met in Paris in 1937, was invited by 14 in Italy and one of the few in the Peggy the following year to exhibit her paintings world dedicated exclusively to at a one-woman exhibition at the London-based jewelry. It is definitely worth a visit if you happen to ‘Guggenheim Jeune’ gallery, a show that launched be in the area during the afternoon (3pm-7pm). This Peggy’s career as a patron of Surrealist art. unique 450 sq.m space, designed by Patricia Urquiola, This intimate exhibition inaugurates the two new is housed inside Vicenza’s Basilica Palladiana, which ‘Project Rooms’; spaces designed to host special recently inaugurated its second exhibition edition projects, with the aim of analyzing the work of 20th (2017-2018). An artistic project curated by 10 new century artists or specific themes connected to the international curators which highlights the culture Peggy Guggenheim collection. Until 26 June. of the area and aims to promote the fabric of jewelry Free presentations of the exhibition daily (3pm). production that has made Vicenza the ‘capital of Rita Kernn-Larsen. jewelry’. Surrealist Paintings Museo del Gioiello 2nd edition 2017-2018 Peggy Guggenheim Collection, Project Rooms. Piazza dei Signori 44, Basilica Palladiana, Vicenza Dorsoduro, 701 (Palazzo Venier dei Leoni). www.museodelgioiello.it www.guggenheim-venice.it

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MUSEO EBRAICO DI VENEZIA ANNUAL EVENTS IN VENICE Cannaregio, 2902/b. Map D2 www.museoebraico.it › 15 January – 5 March 2017 JANUARY FACES AND STORIES OF A COMMUNITY. New Year’s Eve Concert > Arias and operatic Portraits objects memories selections at La Fenice Opera House. FONDAZIONE CINI. SAN GIORGIO FEBRUARY MAGGIORE TUESDAY Carnival of Venice > Shows, masked parades Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. Map G6 and music in ‘calli’, squares and palaces. www.cini.it › 18-31 March 2017 APRIL FROM PORTRAIT TO THE ICON. Festa di San Marco/Feast of St. Mark > (25 April) The charm of an actress through photography © EGIUDICI_WHEREITALIA In addition to being a national holiday, on 25 April 7 CA’ PESARO – INTERNATIONAL GALLERY Venetians also celebrate Saint Mark’s day. ART MEETS ASTRONOMY Venice Night Trial > (29 April) OF MODERN ART ▲ A breathtaking visual journey through our Solar System to the borders of the Urban trail run 16 km through the historical centre of Venice. Santa Croce, 2076. Map E3 observable Universe, through famous images captured by the Hubble Space www.capesaro.visitmuve.it Telescope, a hugely successful collaboration between NASA and ESA. In addition MAY › 11 February – 28 May 2017 to these images, the exhibition features installations by 10 Italian artists who Festa della Sensa (or Ascension festivity 27-28 May) > WILLIAM MERRITT CHASE (1849-1916) A masked parade in St. Mark’s Square to celebrate have created paintings, sculptures and site-specific installations inspired by the Un pittore tra New York e Venezia Bellini e i Belliniani, Palazzo Sarcinelli (Conegliano). Marco Bello, Circoncisione (XV-XVI century) the Serenissima and the ‘Sposalizio del Mare’ marvels of space. This combination of science and art provides the viewer with a (Marriage of the Sea) ceremony different perspective of the Universe around us, inviting us to think about where MURANO GLASS MUSEUM humanity fits into the grand scheme of the Universe. Until 17 April. Fondamenta Marco Giustinian, 8 (Murano). Off Map JUNE/JULY This exhibition will travel to other locations in Europe, the USA and Australia. www.museovetro.visitmuve.it Vogalonga (4 June) > 43rd edition of the 30 km rowing › 7 October 2016 – 25 April 2017 Our Place in Space marathon through S. Erasmo, S. Francesco del deserto, Burano, MURANO OGGI. Emozioni di vetro 10 Artists inspired by Hubble Space telescope images Mazzorbo, Murano and the Grand Canal. Istituto Veneto di Scienze, Lettere ed Arti - Palazzo Cavalli Franchetti The competition is open to the public. CA’ D’ORO – GALLERIA GIORGIO Biennale of Art “VIVA ARTE VIVA” Campo Santo Stefano FRANCHETTI (13 May-26 November, Arsenale and Giardini) > www.spacetelescope.org Piazza San Marco, 63. Map F4 57th international exhibition of Contemporary Art www.cadoro.org › Biennale of Dance > (23 June-1 July) 3 March – 2 July 2017 SERENISSIME TRAME. Tappeti della Feast of San Piero de Casteo > An end-of-June festivity WEDNESDAY Collezione Zaleski e dipinti del Rinascimento to celebrate the arrival of summer: the focal point of the event a Venezia is the Island of San Pietro di Castello. PEGGY GUGGENHEIM COLLECTION JULY/AUGUST Dorsoduro, 704. Map E5 Festa del Redentore / Feast of the Redeemer > www.guggenheim-venice.it (16 July) One of Venice’s best loved festivals, the event features Peggy Guggenheim Collection › 12 November 2016 – 13 March 2017 a parade of boats in the Giudecca and fireworks. 15 A MIXTURE OF CHARM TANCREDI. A RETROSPECTIVE. Biennale of Theatre (25 July-12 August) My weapon against the atom bomb is a blade AND ENIGMA of grass. OUT OF TOWN AUGUST/SEPTEMBER ► Described as “paintings featuring › 25 February – 29 June 2017 VICENZA. GALLERIE D'ITALIA-PALAZZO International Exhibition of Cinematographic Art > hybrid animals and scenes of RITA KERN-LARSEN. LEONI MONTANARI (30 August-9 September) Now in its 74th witchcraft”, the works of Bosch, a Surrealist paintings Contra' Santa Corona, 25. Vicenza consecutive year, the exhibition is organized fascinating, enigmatic artist, are www.gallerieditalia.com by the Biennale of Venice. unveiled at Venice’s Palazzo Ducale. COMING SOON › 4 February 2017 – 7 January 2018 This unique exhibition will capture the LA BIENNALE DI VENEZIA 2017 LE AMBRE DELLA PRINCIPESSA SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER attention of the public and academics www.labiennale.org Regata Storica / Historic Regatta (3 September) > VIVA ARTE VIVA – 57TH INTERNATIONAL alike, and serve as a means of TREVISO. MUSEO DI SANTA CATERINA One of Venice’s foremost rowing competitions, it is preceded by ART EXHIBITION Piazzetta Mario Botter, 1. Treviso. highlighting Venice’s artistic heritage. a spectacular parade of historic 16th century craft. Arsenale and Giardini www.lineadombra.it The focal points of the exhibition Biennale of Music (29 September-8 October) › 13 May – 26 November (preview 10, 11, 12 May) › 29 October 2016 – 17 April 2017 are three works by the artist that are Venice Marathon (22 October) BIENNALE DANZA STORIE DELL’IMPRESSIONISMO. preserved in Venice and have been › 23 June – 1 July I grandi protagonisti da Monet a Renoir, NOVEMBER recently restored to their original BIENNALE TEATRO da Van Gogh a Gauguin Festa della Salute > 21 November splendour. Until 4 June. › 25 July – 12 August A popular religious feast day. 74TH VENICE INTERNATIONAL FILM CONEGLIANO. PALAZZO SARCINELLI Jheronimus Bosch e Venezia FESTIVAL Via XX Settembre, 132. Conegliano (Treviso) Palazzo Ducale Ca’ d’Oro - Galleria Giorgio Franchetti. DECEMBER › 30 August – 9 September www.mostrabellini.it Floral carpet with fighting animals. Piazza San Marco, 1 Christmas Concert at St. Mark’s basilica BIENNALE MUSICA › 25 February – 18 June 2017 Central Persia, Isfahan? 16th century

www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it HEALD PEGGY GUGGENHEIM COLLECTION, VENICE. PHOTO- DAVID › 29 September – 8 October BELLINI E I BELLINIANI (Galleria Moshe Tabibnia)

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OLD-WORLD ELEGANCE While Venice holds even those visiting it for the With its exquisite stuccoes and hundredth time in thrall, it’s no surprise that countless tables overlooking St. Mark’s directors and filmmakers also fell under the spell of the Square, Venice’s historic Caffé Venice Florian has appeared in numerous city. In fact, several of its most breathtaking, mysterious films, including 'The Talented views have taken centre stage in more than 700 feature Mr. Ripley' (in the opening page) films. This one-of-a-kind movie map will help you and 'Summertime' (seen here on movie map the left). Established in 1720, a discover, and identify, those places most frequently stopover at Florian is an absolute captured and portrayed in the history of filmmaking. must, to rediscover the authentic mood of 18th century Venice. BY SIMONA P.K. DAVIDDI

anals, ‘campielli’, alleys, neighbourhoods It’s past one o’clock and you’re starting to feel hungry. and gondolas, plus domes, exquisite After a short walk, you’ll reach the famous Antica Locanda mullioned windows, scenic bridges and Montin, in Fondamenta Borgo 1147, where the lunch majestic bell towers. There is no view of scene of one of the greatest classics of all times, the lagoon city that has not appeared, The Anonymous Venetian (1970), starring Florinda at least once, in a motion picture. Each Bolkan and Tony Musante, was filmed. Cportrayal has always been unique: whether immortalized On walking back towards the Grand Canal, you’ll find in romantic, melancholic, mysterious settings or acting as a another Venetian landmark that has appeared in several backdrop to love stories or thrilling chases. films. This is the Basilica of Santa Maria della Salute: in Zelig Our itinerary starts from the main ‘gateway’ to Venice, (1983) it acts as the backdrop for the interview conducted the Santa Lucia railway station, where Angelina Jolie and by social commentator Susan Sontag – who plays herself – Johnny Depp met in The Tourist (2010), and where in regarding the mysterious identity of its main character, the Venice, the Moon and You (1958), unlikely gondolier, satirical Woody Allen. In Lara Croft: Tomb Raider (2001), Alberto Sordi buttonholed foreign tourists. After crossing the Basilica is the church where the ‘Illuminati’ meet, and it the Ponte degli Scalzi and heading south, we reach can be seen behind the shoulders of Ripley (Matt Demon) the Scuola Grande di San Rocco, where Woody Allen in The Talented Mr. Ripley (1999) during his dialogue attempted to seduce the beautiful Julia Roberts in with Dickie’s father (the scene was filmed at the Westin Everyone Says I Love you (1996). The Scuola Grande’s Europa & Regina). It also appears in The Tourist, when sumptuous Sala del Capitolo is featured once again in Angelina Jolie is seen boarding a water taxi on her way Lasse Hallström’s Casanova, where it is used for a ball to the Venice Biennale…however, it’s a shame that, in the organized by the Doge. film, the church is shown on the left of the landing stage meaning that instead of heading towards the Arsenale, the After skirting the Grand Canal and entering Sestiere headquarters of the event, the actress is actually going in Dorsoduro, we come to Ca’ Rezzonico, whose rooms the opposite direction! served as a backdrop for several scenes featured in Moonraker (1979) starring Roger Moore as James Bond. ST. MARK’S SQUARE: A DIRECTOR’S DREAM Just a little further on, another favourite Hollywood The opposite bank of the Grand Canal can be reached location is Campo San Barnaba, home to the church of the from the Basilica via a comfortable gondola-ferry. This same name. The famous scene from Indiana Jones and gondola is larger than the standard type and is designed the Last Crusade (1989), in which Harrison Ford climbs to carry 15 people at a time (at exorbitant prices). The out of a manhole in the middle of the ‘campo’, startling docking station of the Grand Canal, located almost directly customers seated at the tables of a nearby bar, was shot in front of Campo Santa Maria del Giglio, is home to the here. The church, which also appears in the film, was Hotel Gritti, immortalized by Woody Allen in Everyone used as a location housing an imaginary library. Campo Says I Love you. The interior of La Fenice Opera House, San Barnaba is also the home of the shop owned by the which is just steps from the Hotel Gritti, was used to shoot antique dealer with whom Katherine Hepburn fell in love parts of Luchino Visconti’s Senso (1954). In fact when a fire in Summertime (1955). And, Rio San Barnaba was also the destroyed the opera house in 1996, enlarged frames from place where this leading lady fell into the water. Hepburn this film sequence actually helped restorers to reconstruct was forced to repeat the scene of her fall three times. The its original plans. Just a little further on, you’ll find palazzo same setting, with a totally different atmosphere, was used Contarini del Bovolo, renowned for its picturesque, 16th for the scenes featuring the first boat chase through the century Byzantine staircase. Legend has it that this was the canals in The Italian Job (2003): due to the high speeds home of Desdemona, but in his 1952 version of Othello, at which the boats flew through the canals, the producers Orson Welles portrays it as Brabantio’s house in Cyprus. were forced to ask the lagoon authorities for a series of We have now reached the heart of Venice, St. Mark’s special permits to shoot the scenes. Square. Photogenic, scenic and stunningly beautiful, PHOTO BY DELFINO SISTO LEGNANI AND MARCO CAPPELLETTI © DFS GROUP.JPG

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Rialto Bridge. However, before crossing it, if you look at the bank lying just to the left of it, set between Palazzetto Dolfin and Palazzo Remer, you will recognize the palazzo that collapsed into the Grand Canal in Casino Royale. Obviously the building that collapsed was only a digital artifact! Lying beyond the bridge is the Rialto fish market where, in The Tourist, in order to escape from his pursuers, Johnny Depp leaps down from the roofs above the fish market onto the awning of one of the stalls (an interesting fact: these scenes were shot on Monday, when the market is closed). While looking over the Grand Canal, we are reminded of numerous scenes from famous films. These include 007’s improbable crossing on a sail boat in Casino Royale – during the the square has appeared in numerous films because it doesn’t exist). In Nosferatu in THE GRAND CANAL shoot, the crew were forced to dismantle the and film sequences that have gone down in Venice (1988), Klaus Kinski is seen crossing the Now let’s head towards the Arsenale in Sestiere mast several times in order to allow it to pass movie history: from the scene in which Sean mist shrouded square while, in Casanova, the Castello. In Senso, this building, which was under the bridges – Nikita (1990), Luc Besson’s Connery as 007, throws a tape into the waters square is magically restored to its original 18th formerly one of the largest factories in Europe masterpiece, in which the young spy/assassin POSTCARDS FROM THE LAGOON of the canal in the final scene of From Russia century splendour with horses and carriages, during the pre-industrial era, becomes the travels around Venice in a motorboat with her On the left, a picturesque view of the with Love (1963), to another 007, Roger five-hundred extras were hired to make the barracks where the countess goes in search of boyfriend, wearing a straw gondolier’s hat and Grand Canal, one of the ‘sets’ best-loved by Moore, who, in Moonraker, is seen hurtling setting more lifelike. Even the final scene of her lover while, in The Tourist, it is used as the carrying a model of a gondola, the final regatta directors and immortalized – among other past St. Mark’s Square, while escaping his The Talented Mr. Ripley was shot in this area, headquarters of Interpol. After a pleasant stroll in Casanova and several scenes from Inferno places- in several scenes from 'The Tourist' pursuers on a super motorized gondola that at the tables of Caffé Florian, one of the oldest amidst ‘campi’ and ‘campielli’, we come to the and The Merchant of Venice (2004). During (starring Angelina Jolie and Johnny Depp) conveniently converts into a speedboat. An cafés in Italy. beautiful church of Santa Maria dei Miracoli. the shooting of the latter, both the Rialto Bridge and 'Casino Royale' (featuring Daniel Craig). interesting fact: during the shooting of the Lying next to the square, and spanned by the Used by Orson Welles as a setting for the and the Canal were closed to the public for a Above, the sumptuous Sala degli Stucchi landing sequence, Roger Moore fell into the Bridge of Sighs, is Rio Canonica, which made marriage between Desdemona and Othello, few hours. Several other locations in Sestiere of the iconic, Lido-based Hotel Excelsior. water five times! In Casino Royale (2006), the a recent appearance in Ron Howard’s Inferno this church is decorated with polychrome Cannaregio are also worth a visit: the Ca’ D’Oro, This was one of the locations chosen to film hotel, inhabited by James Bond alias Daniel (2016). In the film, the lead, Tom Hanks, is seen marble which, according to legend, was stolen whose rooms were used to shoot scenes from scenes from 'Once Upon a Time in America' Craig, boasts a magnificent view over St. Mark’s crossing the canal on a ‘Mototopo’, a typical from the building site during the construction Romeo and Juliet (1954), the Scuola Grande of (starring Robert De Niro and Elizabeth Square (but don’t try looking for this hotel, lagoon craft. of St. Mark’s Basilica. Now we are nearly at the Santa Maria della Misericordia, where the dance McGovern).

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HISTORIC LOCATIONS On the page at the side, a recent picture of the Antica Locanda Montin (Fondamenta Borgo 1147) and one showing what it looked like in 1970, during the filming of 'The Anonymous Venetian', starring Florinda Bolkan and Tony Musante HUGO PRATT’S VENICE (below, the façade of the Casa dei Tre Oci). On this page: above, the historic An eclectic artist but, above all, the exist, and you only need to stray slightly and elegant Hotel Des Bains, on the creator of Corto Maltese, a ‘graphic novel’, from popular tourist itineraries to find party scene in The Tourist was set, and the Lido where, in 1911, Thomas Mann celebrating its 50th anniversary this year, them: Calle Amor dei Amici is in Sestiere campo del Ghetto Novo, where Alida Valli and set his short novel titled 'Death in Hugo Pratt wrote: “There are three magical San Polo; the tiny Bridge of Marvels is Farley Granger fell in love in Senso. Venice', and also the place where, and hidden places in Venice: one is in Calle in Dorsoduro and the Calle dei Marrani in 1971, Luchino Visconti shot dell'Amor degli Amici, one is near the is actually the Salizada Santa Giustina in THE ISLANDS AND THE LIDO the screen version of the book Ponte delle Maravegie and the other is in Sestiere Castello. Moving onto the islands, we find the former (on the left). Calle dei Marrani, near San Geremia in the The tavern that appears in Corto’s stories Benedictine monastery of San Giorgio Old Ghetto. When Venetians feel that they is the Trattoria da Scarso in the little Maggiore. Dating back to the 10th century, can no longer endure the establishment, square of Malamocco, while Pratt chose but restyled by Palladio in the 16th century, they go to these secret places where, Titian’s home in Cannaregio, in Corte del it was depicted as Portia’s palace in The Looking for the perfect shoot? on opening the back doors to these Tiziano, as Corto’s domicile. Finally, one of Merchant of Venice (2004). Villa F on the courtyards, they wander off into beautiful Pratt’s favourite haunts in Venice was Caffé Island of Giudecca, appears in The Tourist, Venice’s lavish, high-end shopping centre and stomachs for dinner. Take a tour of the Romena Brugnerotto spaces, and other stories..." Despite their Florian, whose celebrated Corto Maltese while the nearby Casa dei Tre Oci (its name (please note that weekends can get crowded areas around Campo Santa Margherita or Tourist Advisor grandiose names, these three places really cocktail is dedicated to him. refers to the three large windows on its and you might have to queue). the Fondamenta della Misericoria, where www.rominvenice.com facade) was used as Valeria’s (Florinda Bolkan) Are you interested in capturing real life you can even drink a Spritz, the Venetian house in The Anonymous Venetian. On scenes rather than monuments? In the aperitivo par excellence, on a boat. reaching the Lido, the Hotel Des Bains, mornings, head to the Rialto Fish Market, Taking nighttime photographs of the city located on the Lungomare Marconi is worth where the locals and restaurant owners can also be a unique experience. Don your a mention. It was here in 1911, that Thomas purchase fresh fish. However, remember walking shoes and set out from the Zattere Mann set his novel titled Death in Venice, and that markets are above all places of business, because the Giudecca offers numerous also here in 1971 that Luchino Visconti shot Visitors to Venice always bring a camera with so you can understand how vendors feel interesting views, when lit up. the screen version of the book. An interesting them hoping to capture the essence of the when a photographer ‘hogs’ the space in What happens when it’s foggy, a fairly usual fact: the director brought in six trucks loaded city. This is not always easy and weather is a front of their stall waiting for the ‘perfect’ occurrence in Venice? Dismal days shouldn’t with object d’art and Art Noveau furniture to common concern for all photographers. image. We therefore suggest that you work stop you from capturing some amazing reproduce the hotel’s fin de siecle splendour. There are days in which the sky is so clear quickly, without getting in the way of the shots of the city’s churches and ‘palazzi’. This elegant hotel also ‘played’ the Shepeard that you can see the mountains lying behind business people. While in the area, you Stand on one of the city’s many bridges, the Hotel in Cairo in The English Patient (1996), Venice. Seize the moment and climb to the can stop in at one of the nearby bars; try bridge of the Accademia is a good option, while nearby the equally luxurious Excelsior top of the Bell Tower of San Giorgio, where an aperitivo or a ‘cicchetto’ at Lino Fritto. and find the right light to work with. – and more specifically its sumptuous Sala you’ll have a bird’s-eye view over the city. Where ‘real life’ scenes are concerned, Finally, if you’re a fan of winter seascapes, degli Stucchi – was the Long Island restaurant A new favourite aerial observation point, make sure to snap a few photos of Venice’s head to the beaches of either Alberoni or where Robert De Niro reserved a table for his especially at sunset, is the highly sought- Aperitivo hour, the time when Venetians Pellestrina, which still boast traces of their date with Elizabeth McGovern in Once Upon after terrace of T Fondaco dei Tedeschi, relax, socialize and prepare their palates original wild nature. a Time in America (1984).

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▼ BURBERRY This Burberry twill cotton low-top sneaker ▼BOGGI MILANO with House Check motif and suede ► DECLARE Building on its reputation for sharp tailoring, Italian leather trim adds a touch of chic to all Luxurious minimalist Made- menswear label Boggi Milano dresses today’s outfits. Available at the Al Duca d’Aosta in-Italy items, Declare’s bags contemporary man. For spring 2017 it proposes GIFT boutiques (www.alducadaosta.com) are renowned for their these two custom-fit shirts. One in poplin stretch it.burberry.com unconventional, sophisticated cotton with a Tokyo collar and the other in flamed aesthetic. This jade green, full denim with a soft collar. www.boggi.com GUIDE grain calf leather shopper can be purchased at the brand’s San Polo boutique. www.dclr.it Whether you choose an accessory or a fragrance for him or for her, a jewel or some local items, you will certainly be spoilt for choice in the magic of Venice. Take advantage of a stroll through its picturesque ‘calli’ to treat HER yourself to an accessory or some other alluring detail of style. Where® guarantees that you won’t ◄ TIFFANY & CO. One of the most feminine models of all leave empty-handed! Tiffany Keys, this ‘Daisy’ pendant in 18k pink ◄ JAEGER-LECOULTRE gold features an elegant floral design, offset Featuring timeless Art Deco by a round diamond. A brilliant beacon of lines, this stainless steel ‘Reverso optimism and hope. www.tiffany.com Classic Medium Small Second’ watch houses a small seconds counter whose clean-cut lines add a touch of charm to the timepiece. The back of its case can be personalized with a hidden engraving. www.jaeger-lecoultre.com HIM

▲ GEMS OF VENICE From a unique boutique and workshop located in the heart of ◄ CALVIN KLEIN Venice, this work of art is part of ▲ MICHAEL MICHAEL KORS ‘Eternity Intense’ for men opens with a fresh, an elegant collection of stunning The spring/summer 2017 aromatic touch of bergamot with base notes pieces. Memories of a distant past accessories ‘Resort’ line by MICHAEL of cedarwood and iris that celebrate the infused with a contemporary look. Michael Kors focuses on clean-cut intensity of this fragrance. www.gemsofvenice.it lines and graphics. The collection it.calvinklein.com also highlights a black and white theme as shown by these ‘60’s-style sunglasses. www.michaelkors.it

18 WHERE VENICE I MARCH 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 19 WHERE NOW | ITINERARY

The island is the capital of handmade lace, a craft kept alive for centuries by the wives of fishermen waiting for their husbands The island of Burano to return from sea. The work is extremely exacting, with each woman specializing in a In addition to Murano and Torcello, this island on the Venetian Lagoon should not single stitch. Since there are seven stitches in total, each piece is passed from woman be missed. Loved (and widely photographed) by tourists, it is famous for its colourful to woman to finish. Groups of women work houses, butter biscuits and above all, its handcrafted lace. By Stefano Traine diligently for days to produce items, whether large or small, of matchless beauty: trims for dresses, accessories, tablecloths, gloves, umbrellas and masks, all made from this delicate, white lace, crafted with a painstaking attention to detail that has lasted for centuries. For example, though it can take up to five months to make a rectangular tablecloth for 12 people, the island’s lace makers are now equipped to deliver your item of choice to anywhere in the world. (Please note: since an authentic, handcrafted item takes hours of work, you need to be cautious if the price seems too low. The risk that the lace is not handmade and not even Venetian is now a sad reality). While on the island, make sure to visit the Museum of Lace-Making to understand why something so exquisite should not become extinct (Burano, Piazza Baldassarre Galuppi, 187).

BISCUITS AND OTHER SWEET TREATS Butter biscuits known as Buranelli (either ring or S-shaped), are famous on the island and you will be offered them wherever you go. However, this is not the only specialty that you’ll find. The island has a long-standing gastronomic tradition linked, above all, to fresh fish. Here is our pick, among the many, of several historic eateries. Da Romano (famed Zilli for its ‘risotto di Gò’); Da Ruggero al Gatto Nero (all the pastas and desserts are made in-house, and the fish is so fresh and delicious that even Jamie Oliver has recommended Al Gatto Nero on his television show); and finally Ai Pescatori e Dal Vecio Pipa. Bon Appetit! POCKET BURANO A little less famous than its twin, Murano rainbow, are truly spectacular! However, HOW TO REACH BURANO You can also take the - the island of glass, with which it is often the origin of this tradition of painting the One Vaporetto line runs from Venice houses of Burano home as confused, due to the similar names (only the houses in bright colours was not only for to Burano: the number 12. The journey a souvenir. On the island first letter changes), lace, in no way inferior to aesthetic reasons. Legend has it that its lasts for approximately one hour after you can find a number of its sibling’s blown glass, has made tiny Burano fishermen, often confused by frequent banks embarking at the Fondamente Nove artisans specializing in the famous. With a population of only three of fog (and, truth be told, by the amount of stop (the Vaporetto runs at 10 minutes reproduction of brightly thousand inhabitants, its colourful houses liqueur consumed to keep them warm…), past and 20 minutes to the hour). If coloured, miniature districts. make it is one of the most picturesque places devised a chromatic code that would help you’re not in a hurry, the Venetians However, the noblest craft of on earth. them identify their own landing piers more recommend another alternative: you can all is the lace-making. The lace easily after a long day’s fishing. Each colour take the 14 line from San Zaccaria (the made here is truly an example THE HOUSES corresponded to a family, to their house and Pietà stop), which stops at the Lido. It’s of an ancient art! Thank heavens for smartphones! The idea to their address. a good opportunity to take a look at the of arriving on Burano and realizing that venue where the Film Festival is held, you’ve forgotten your camera could be a BURANO LACE and admire the works by MOSE, the huge catastrophe. The island’s row of houses, Burano’s brightly-coloured houses are not the hydraulic engineering project completed whose facades boast all the colours of the only thing worth admiring. to protect the Lagoon.

20 WHERE VENICE I MARCH 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 21 SHOPPING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM ACCESSORIES Since 2001, Giorgio Fontanive has continued to run W The Guidelines this family-owned business, established by his father- M H E O This directory, grouped by category, is a list of Anatema in-law, a Neapolitan glove maker. The brand recently R . C E T R Rossana Righini delights customers with her scarves, opened a second branch in Cannaregio, in Rio Terà R A V E L E establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. brooches, costume jewelry, bags, hats and silk, San Leonardo. Open daily 9.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm- handmade ties. Her windows and display cases 7.30pm. www.fannygloves.it. San Polo, 2723 (Calle MAP LOCATIONS-Note that references in bold express the owner’s philosophy: “The culture of Saoneri) T. 041 5228266. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to beauty, the magic of elegance”. PASSION TIP Tomà stop). Map D2 the coordinates on the street maps on pages Anatema also stocks small Murano glass jewelry. Francis Model 62-63. Open daily 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.anatema.it. Stylish, high-quality bags with a focus on colour. TRANSPORT-References to vaporetto lines and San Polo, 2603. T: 041 5242221. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 Established in 1965, this small artisanal ‘bottega’ has stops are based on departure from the Santa (San Tomà stop). Map D4 Lucia railway station. always remained faithful to the diktats of Made in Declare Italy craftsmanship. Located just steps from the Rialto SHOPPING -Shopping hours are generally from Although the goods sold by this small independent Bridge, Ruggero De Zorzi devotes himself to his craft 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still brand are targeted at an international clientele, its with pride and passion. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. take the traditional lunch break. Most shops owners are true blue Venetians. Its sleek black fitout www.francismodel.it. San Polo, 773/A (Ruga Ravano). are closed on Sundays (except those located in provides a dramatic backdrop for its sought-after, T: 041 5212889. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato stop). central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask butter-soft leather bags and accessories handcrafted Map E3 by artisans using full-grain Tuscan leather. Open your concierge. G. Pagan daily 10.30am-7.30pm. www.declarevenice.com. San Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is The result of ongoing research, G. Pagan’s bags Polo, 2671 B/C (Calle Seconda dei Saoneri) T: 041 generally included in the price of goods. and accessories are made from prized materials: 8223227. Other locations: San Marco 3801 (Calle crocodile, python and even eel. Everything here is della Mandola). T: 041 5225559. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 TAX-FREE SHOPPING about style, it’s worth a visit! It also has another store (San Samuele stop). Map D3 » By law, non-EU residents are entitled to in Calle della Mandola. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased Fanny Gloves San Marco, 54 (Sotto le Procuratie). T: 041 5208924. and exported from the EU: before finalizing Colourful, handmade gloves, from the most classic to Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant the most eccentric, lined with cashmere, silk or lapin. Map F5 whether they are eligible for a tax refund.

UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: [email protected]

GIULIO PALAFERRI GIULIO PALAFERRI UnionPay is a global payment network originated from China, responsible for the inter-bank payment via UnionPay system worldwide. By June 2016, over 350,000 merchants in PHOTOS © Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 30,000 merchants are located in Venice. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous Beauty “à porter”! retail groups, such as DFS Group, McArthurGlen Designer outlets, SINA hotels, Airport dutyfree Chanel, the historic maison renowned for its double ‘C’ logo, has chosen Venice to launch its second Italian shops, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders. Chanel Fragrance and Beauty boutique. By Stefania Vida DINING Reservations for most restaurants are strongly space inspired by the universe of the requirements of each and every woman. Lastly, >> www.chanel.com advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not maison, where aesthetic codes and ‘Parfum’ is an olfactory space devoted to the San Marco 1254/A compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as A the elements with which Madame universe of fragrances, enhanced by made-to- T: 041 2708699 a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include Chanel loved to surround herself are perfectly measure rituals. The experience is completed by the word “coperto”, a small surcharge re-interpreted through the creativity and a corner dedicated to ‘Les Exclusifs’, a collection corresponding to the cost of the service and Contemporary shopping bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, modernity for which the brand is renowned. of 16 iconic fragrances inspired by the life of semiformal clothing is usually considered de Located in the heart of the city, thanks to Coco Chanel. rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars experience interactive experiences and dedicated events, The boutique also offers a services menu are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ Spread over four floors surrounding an inner courtyard, luxury department store this dynamic concept store opens the doors to designed to offer customers a 360-degree area is specifically offered. Coin Excelsior in Cannaregio is located just steps from the Rialto Bridge. A trip into Set meals: prices are per person and usually the world of Chanel. ‘Chanel experience’. Services on offer include the universe of fashion dedicated to the worlds of clothing, beauty and accessories. refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). The boutique comprises three specific areas: quick makeup tutorials, more structured € = 30 € or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / The ground floor hosts some of the world’s most coveted perfume brands including Make-up, Soin and Parfum. In the ‘Makeup’ maquillage workshops , a ‘trip’ in discovery €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. Jo Malone, Bond No. 9, Byredo and Diptyque as well as a sought-after selection of area, you will find the latest trends, makeup of Chanel’s scents thanks to personalized products dedicated to beauty. The first and second floors are devoted to women’s wear previews, exclusive creations and a ‘Virtual consultations and the creation of a bespoke SIGHTSEEING collections while, on the third floor, the offer of menswear is targeted at a discerning Information about our selection of museums Makeup’ station which, thanks to an App, offers beauty routine using the house’s fabulous array and monuments is checked as carefully as clientele in search of a gentlemanly selection of contemporary and classic apparel. customers the option of simulating a makeup of skincare products. possible. However, telephone numbers, Finally, the top floor is the go-to space for Coincasa’s must have home decorations. look and then receiving images of the look The whole is completed by a rich calendar opening hours, works displayed and site The store’s inner courtyard hosts ‘Be Happy’, the site-specific lighting installation created via e-mail with a detailed list of the cosmetics of events including makeup and skincare accessibility are subject to change depending by well-known storyteller and multidisciplinary artist Felice Limosani. on the time of the year, restorations, loans or used. On the other hand, the ‘Soin’ section is a workshops as well as experiences dedicated to Open daily 10am-8pm. www.coinexcelsior.com. changes in management. Ask your concierge. dedicated area showcasing different treatment discovering and testing classic Chanel scents on Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3

lines designed to satisfy the wishes and your hunt for ‘the one’.

22 WHERE VENICE I MARCH 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 23 [ FASHION DESIGNERS ] Luxury Top Brands

BALENCIAGA—www.balenciaga.com LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com VALENTINO—www.valentino.com

A new addition every day! Open daily 10am-7pm. Calle Vallaresso, Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10.30am-8pm. Open 6.30am-9pm. Marco Polo Airport. 1310. T: 041 5230806. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 T: 041 2698001. (open 6.30am-9pm). The world of designer San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500. Vaporetto (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Sporting a flower embellished leather boutiques in Venice is VERSACE—www.versace.com Map F5 shoulder strap, this season’s flirty ‘Scout’ bag BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com. Open Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, making waves, and the by MICHAEL MICHAEL KORS adds a touch Mon-Sat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sun 11am- 1462 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 5200057. majority of big-name brands MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.com. of spring to your look. 7pm. San Marco, 4822. T: 041 2411945. San Marco, 1461 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso are located around Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto-Riva del Carbon stop). Map F5 • Marco Polo Airport. 2960312. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco- St. Mark’s Square, the great stop). Map F4 T: 041 2611556 (open 6.30am-9pm). Vallaresso stop). Map F5 heart of Venice. By heading BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta. MISSONI—www.missoni.it. Open daily 10am- towards the Accademia com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. San Marco, 7.30pm. San Marco, 1312 (Calle Vallaresso). from St. Mark’s Square, you 1473 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5205197. Sizing Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso In CHANEL’s precious ‘Les 4 Ombres’ palette, each T: 041 5205733. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 will find yourself in Calle colour can be used on its own or blended (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 Women clothes stop or S. Maria del Giglio stop). Larga XXII Marzo, the widest Map F5 for a more intense look. IT EUR US UK street in the city, lined with MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com. Open daily 10am- 36 32 1 4 the window displays of the CHANEL—www.chanel.com. Open Mon-Sun 7.30pm. San Marco, 1471 (Salizada San Moisè). 38 34 2 6 10am-7pm. San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII T: 041 8106066.Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San 40 36 4 8 most coveted international Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 42 38 6 10 brands. A system of ‘calli’ (San Marco-Valleresso stop). Map E5 44 40 8 12 FENDI—www.fendi.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am- PRADA—www. prada.com. Open daily 10am- 46 42 10 14 (the word for street in NEW OPENING 7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7pm. San Marco, 1582 CHANEL BEAUTY San 7.30pm. San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San 48 44 12 16 Venetian dialect) known Marco, 1254/A. T: 041 2708699. Vaporetto (Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Vaporetto Moise). T: 041 5283966. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). as the ‘Mercerie’ leads line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Valleresso stop). (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 Map F3 Map F4 Women shoes from the Clock Tower in RENÉ CAOVILLA— www.renecaovilla.com. IT EUR US UK St. Mark’s Square to the FRATELLI ROSSETTI—www.fratellirossetti. CHURCH’S—www.church-footwear.com Open daily 10am-7pm. San Marco, 1296. 36 36 6 3 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am- com Open daily 10am-7pm. Campo S. Rialto, where Venice’s old T: 041 5238038. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 37 37 6.5 4 7pm. San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso). Salvador, 4800. T: 041 5230571. Vaporetto ‘botteghe’ (workshops) (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 38 38 7.5 5 T: 041 2410147. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 line 1 (Rialto stop). Map F4 • Open Mon-Sat 39 39 8.5 6 have now been replaced by (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. San Marco, ROBERTO CAVALLI— www.robertocavalli.com 40 40 9 7 1477 (San Moisè). T: 041 5220819. Vaporetto luxury boutiques. Open daily 10am-7pm. San Marco, 1314. 41 41 9.5 8 DAMIANI NEW OPENING line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). www.damiani.com. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Map F5 T: 041 5299020. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 Men clothes » From a few months, the world’s San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). most coveted brands have a T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com Open IT EUR US UK (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 Mon- Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. San SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com. Open Mon- new home that gathers them all 50 46 36 36 Marco, 4412 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. San Marco, 52 48 38 38 under one roof: T Fondaco dei DIOR— www.dior.com Open daily 10am-7pm. 8503048. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco 1302. T: 041 5202211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 54 50 40 40 Vallaresso stop). Map F4 • Armani Jeans at (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 Tedeschi, the first luxury Venetian Piazza San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de 56 52 42 42 I’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Vaporetto Marco Polo Airport. department store, located just 58 54 44 44 line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— 60 56 46 46 steps from the Rialto Bridge. Map F5 GUCCI—www.gucci.com. Open daily 10am- www.ferragamo.com. Open Mon-Sat

7.30pm. San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7pm. Men shoes DOLCE&GABBANA—www.dolcegabbana.it Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 T: 041 2778509. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 IT EUR US UK 233/266 (corner of Mercerie dell'Orologio). • Open daily 10am-7.30pm Piazza San (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5 40 40 7.5 6 T: 041 5209991. Vaporetto line 1 Marco, 258 T: 041 5229119. Vaporetto line 1 • Marco Polo Airport. T: 041 268357 41 41 8 7 (San Marco-Giardinetti). Map F4 (San Marco-Giardinetti stop). Map E5 (open 6.30am-9pm). 42 42 8.5 8 43 43 9 9 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.com. HERMÈS—italy.hermes.com. Open daily TIFFANY & CO. NEW OPENING 44 44 10.5 10 Open daily 10am-7pm. Bocca di Piazza 10.30am-7pm. San Marco, 1292. T: 041 www.tiffany.it. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San 45 45 11.5 11 San Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Vaporetto 2410715. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco- 46 46 12 12 line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Vallaresso stop). Map F5 Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037.

Map F4 Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com. Open ETRO—www.etro.com. Open daily 10am- daily 10am-7pm. San Marco Ascensione, 7.30pm. San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso). 1301. T: 041 2770695. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 TOD’S—www.tods.com. Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; This season’s catwalk mood from VERSACE is infused PRADA'S spring/summer women’s collection, T: 041 5232599. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 • Sun 10.30am-1pm/2pm-7pm. with an air of fresh innovation. The brand’s trademark including these sandals embellished with floral (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Marco Polo Airport, Viale Luigi Broglio, 8 San Marco, 2251 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). sensuality is combined with ‘practical’ details in terms Map F5 (open 6.30am-9pm). T: 041 5415072. T: 041 5206603. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 appliqué, is inspired by gardens in bloom. of both shapes and fabrics. (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5

24 WHERE VENICE I MARCH 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 25 Museo Di Torcello

TORCELLO Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta

Chiesa di Santa Fosca

100 m SINA O R

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CALLE PERLERI LL TERÀ V N E DE E F O A E MA Palazzo Nani ALL N FONDAMENTA SAVORG N D A M E N C RIO MI O TERÀ FARS IA SENA I A CA R TA N CALLE TREVIS M I S E R ’ABAZ O Rio de ServiFON.DA L CALL DEL E DEL DE CATERI CA PIST NI O LL OR E Abazia P E LE RIELL LE I C O R D I CATEN N CANAL NTA INI E E CAMPIELLO A R L AN CAM della Misericordia A CAL R D O A SAN MARZIALE A S C AL E O N A G C RIO TERÀ S. L RIO TERÀ FO CAMPO UN ND FOS Chiesa dei Gesuiti SAN LEONARDO NA D IA I E FONDAMENTA D A LA MEN LE L MB MADDALE ORD NUOVA ISOLA A CAMPO CALLE L Palazzo Labia TA TR C FONDAMENTA S SAFFA Parco COLO NA E Canale della Misericordia ARO Salone del Tiepolo L AP L

A Savorgnan San Leonardo, OL C N R E CA' DEL TRONCHETTO PES I DIET I A O I NTA CAT R TE N FOND. MISERIC RO LA RÀ CAMPO UE CH La Maddalena VE Q E IE RINA CAMPO C E SA L ND ISOLA NOVA DEL ALLE CALLE SAN GEREMIA AL Santa Fosca RA FO DEI GESUITI C NDAM

San Marcuola CA MIN LA RACHETA DE STRADA NOVA CAMPIELLO E ENT LLE E C D A ZE C L CAMPO E N DEL REMER ALL A TR ELI FOND. CA F ’ SAN MARCUOLA EN L San Geremia A MISER LE L S.AND A E G CALL FONDA T PRIULI AI H REA A Casino E SAN C RGA D PIET RONCHETTO ALLE AGAZ SPAGNA TT V A ICOR O VE M OLTI M EI BO ENTE di Venezia E L S.Marcuola ENTA Rio dei Santi Apostoli E L

C C TER People Mover Venezia FOND. A D N D CH L C CAMPO DE SA LE E D I C IA e ALLE RTOR VENIER E L OVE d L AVALLETTI I I n O a Museo DEL L LE ERBE L AL r A C FONDAM CAMPO G C l A OZZI ISOLA DELLE TRESSE a Civico STUA LI FONDA DE LA CARITA’ TERÀ LISTA DI n a IU O C M CALL PR NO EN DEI CORDONI

RI Di Storia LE VIGNOLE ZA CORTE DEL O E TA DO P E L OR BE S.Stae San Felice L O P REMER A Riva de Biaso F R AZ R DI BIASI Naturale IU GA CAL CA L RIO TE L L C I E DE ENDIS Santa Maria RIVA R L VO CALLE STELL A San Zan DEL RU À BARBA FRUTARIOL LTO T Palazzo E LE Rio Ca’ Dolce L ETO L RAM L H O A di Nazareth ERÀ LE VELE DEL

Parcheggio Bus Turistici TEGO IO M CORTE DEL C Degola CA ORA Gidoni E FONDAMEN AG CAMPO EG POZETO ON R D M E LZI O T T DE ORO VENEZIA SAN ZAN DEGOLA’ OR A F L CAMPIELLO CA E

S RI IT ALL . DEL A O FONDAMENTA NOVE C C O DE LA MADONNA R AL San Stae C IST LL DEI SAL LE D LE NI E P T L TRON Ca' Pesaro ST UE NTO CA CAMPIELLO CAMPIELLO Ponte RADA A MENTA CAMPO RIO TER I LLE S NO Santa Sofia VALMARANA T’ DEL PESTRIN SQ A AE Galleria Internazionale SANTI APOSTOLI N C L C A DEL A ALLE Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia NDA ’ DE T À CORTE degli Scalzi L N ERD .S SAN SIMON ARI ’ISO S O R FO LA C VA OVA V DA BATAGIA San Lazzaro B N d'Arte Moderna R I E DE A OR A ER S CALL CO CORTE L GRANDO T IA DEL FOR Ca’ D’Oro NTI LIST LLE I A CAMPIELLO CORTESE A dei Mendicanti Ferrovia C C. DEL E ’ D’ A IA ND CALLE A CAL UC AL CAZZA F C A STELLA C O RIO B RAMO S SALIZ E CORTE NOVA LE LUNGA E ARG L DE CALL C. L NDIC T LIZADA SA C LA L VIDA ENTOR A C NTA C CA A ORSETTI A S LL IO ALL ISOLA NOVA DEL TRONCHETTO a S Santi Apostoli ME E O CAMPIELLO San Simeone SA E EI DEI CALLE LLE n P SAV CAMPIELLO M WIDMANN IO TI RO CALL a OR CALLE O E San Simeon C. LA CA CAM DELLA CASON GAB Z Cà d'Oro Profeta EL l ET R ZI IE LI E D G T PONTE DELLA LIBERTÀ CORTE DEL NNAREG I PUNTA SABBIONI Piccolo San Giacomo INATI LL NUOVA EL r TIOZZI I CA R RUG A CA a LO V ECCHI CAMPIELLO GA DEI A S.Canciano OspedaleDAMENTA D SS. Giovanni e Paolo ARM PAN n O Chiesa Evangelica N dall'Orio SAN CANCIANO CAL N N Rio Dei Mendicanti C C. TR C NTA DE LE GRUE M DRIO LE A A d MA LE IC CAMPO D A C D SCUO LA TESTA FO Ferrovia SAN A L e WI CA IN Luterana AME E LE E P A LLE G D GHETTO VECCHIO LIZ D DIREZIONE MERCATO ITTICO B NAZARIO RUGA BELA D E CALLE People Mover Venezia FOND E ME A RE L S Santa Maria E ARI S FONDAMENTA SANTA L A AL CAMPO IM Palazzo CAMPO Z L CALL O FOND C S.MARIA NOVA EONE SAURO E L AL AM SAN GIACOMO Mater Domini D CAMPO DELLA CALL C Soranzo E E ENT LA E DEI B DALL’ORIO L San Cassiano PESCARIA IAN RG CAMPO I ANZ A Santa Maria del Pianto SAN SIMON C G AL R . A CAL A SAN GALL Capello Palazzo Grioni SANTA MARIA C E LIZAD O INA G S SA NTA Giardino di Palazzo FON ARZO L MATER DOMINI OT O R P.le Roma ERG E D CAMPO CAMPO TO IO DEI MIRACOLISanta Maria B P EL I O FORN Ferrovia RTE L Soranzo Cappello DAMENTA SAN CASSAN BO E TTI TIN SAN BOLDO CAMPO DE LA A Basilica dei O DE A AT CALLE ORS L GO dei Miracoli E C M Z ETT H T . E D NDAME EN I O S BECARIE DEL EL DE LE A NA ASCHI V CALLE LL E CASTELLO . R LLE I C OC N BO E NZ San Giovanni C Santi Giovanni e Paolo E CA CAL A ALL FO O FA E IN DE LA C LL CAMPO CA DEL CAMPO ST ’ D C LDO BO LE D B FORN CAL E . B IU E CALL DE CESARE BATTISTI C NV CA’ CA C RI CA O G OLO Grisostomo OCH I LE C LLE E N DE MUTI Z GIÀ HE CA SANTI GIOVANNI L CINI C. DE L’ ST A TUA PPU LA T CORTE CANAL AL LA B ’AN O EL C S L DELLA LI

M A A Ponte T ONDO OT IA CA TE A L BELLA VIENNA FON DE S GN A T E PAOLO SAN O E TO D EC A T S MEN Teatro Malibran LE EL AT CAMPO I IS ETE A T ’ S LA I C L T A C ALL ALL T NUOVE A R M E D H A C E LE ER L A SE della Costituzione SAN GIACOMETO SOS N C C N O I N FON. DEI TOLE SE NN A C U LA CROCE ER . DE ENTA DE C BE I OVE A SC OR RUG DE Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto I . CA T M CAM SA R CAMPO AN L A O E E E AME T IO SCAL D CORTE SECONDA CCHIO SESTI F C DA MO GL R LE DEL E A D R LA LUNA L L PI GIOV PA CA RI LL SS S E N ALLE DEI DEL MILION SANT’AGOSTINO CARAMPANE ELL ALL CALLE MA CO O TE ANS C N RA RO E IER L CA FON San Giacomo O DE FON E A R N O DE CAVALL LE CORTE DEL O CA R P TER R E DE L’A N O F DE À ON GON RE B BAR LE E VE BAR D IA DE DE L RE TEATRO LE CAM E L I S LE . L T CAMPO AL OLE L LE A L DELL' diI Rialto C E IZADA S.G. GR R D CALL CHIA S C Casa di Marco Polo L CAL C IO TE A C L LE CAL R CAST LLE VE SANTA A . A DEL C A CA L M AMENTA PAPADO CA RAM A E SAN FR DE A A O C FET E VEC CALLE S ZO IER GIUSTINA SECONDO NT CAMPIELLO C S PAN LA CAMPO Z A Canale De ScomenzeraR Sant'Andrea ZO AN ANCES G Giardino Z RAD SESTIE A À S O E CAMPIELLO DETTO DE E E DON RIALTO CO San Francesco INI ALL ALBRIZZI O L A LIO C RUGA D BARBARIA R LO C A’ E N ALLE DE LA LAC DEL SOL E NUOVO Fontego CASTELLO A CA FOND Papadopoli Z MUR T' DEUM TO ELA ANDREA CALLE ZO della Vigna AME L

CAL CA S N PIET CALL L N C TA C dei Tedeschi E O LLE D A E AS N CAL NA DE CO L L E ZO VA CALLE LA CELESTI NU E D E A Z R C O A L EI C ALL ELLA V . CCO O D P EL E DEL E DE CAMPO E D C CI C D C EL A DEL F Sant’Aponal . ONTEG .M L OSE A . D I AMAI CAM NQ ART PI SANTA CAMPIELLO DELLA E CALLE DI MEZ E DE OMB D O D CAMPO GHET O I P E N LL L U ST EN O CALLE MAGAZEN R GIUSTINA I U GO D. CONFRATERNITA O SAN POLO EL CALLE DEL TE A Ponte CA GA E F SAN STIN UR CA D SA LL PAL E CALLE LI O N FONDAM E PELL SANTA CROCE N SAL L GI G LE D CAMPO L I CAMPO IAZ CORTE O CAMPO RA I ON ZO CORTE VA AR ZZ IZ RE AP O di Rialto LLE ZADA TREVISAN N M RI RDON CAMPO A EN O I VI E SAN APONAL DEL NI C O A O I SAN BORTOLOMIO DELLA CELESTIA M TA F DIREZIONE PORTO MARITTIMO R C T ERÀ P C CALLE LATERAN San Nicola TA HI DEL VOLTO PRESTRIN EL P E L I IO O M S D E People Mover Venezia NI AN CAMPO E R PIAZZALE ROMA E X ESI NE M D T V O LL O SHOPPING SHOPPING R O A A A LME M CAMPO da TolentinoA N ’ARC L CALLE NUOVA TABACCHI À C SAN LIO LT D RA M Rialto N L O NT E LLE O ADO O A E CIM O C CAMPIELLO I CORTE C. CAMPIELLO ALL OR M ISO CA M LAV LENTI SAN POLO AD CAMPOSan Silvestro S E L TARI D SANTA MARIA RISTO OR A D DEL MORION RIO TERÀ SANT'A I ESI DEI OMBASEI LIZ DEL V BI SALIZAD DA C E DE AD . RU RA FORMOSA ONDU E DRI A SANTA TO DOLE LE C F A N A E LA L B I S P FONDAMENTA San Lorenzo GIUS CORTE MELONI SAN SILVESTRO C. A LE L TINA EL L D N LIO L L FON C LE E E D D A L A DEI PRETI CAMPO AL L GAL D DE LA F. F. C APR DE C C C I C . C.

R AZZ DEI ND RA A RZI AL I ALLE ER LE C E CAMPO RE C O L SANTA TERNITA Rio de le Muneghete L CALLE LARGA SAN LO O A E L RENZO VIDA RE A I TRONCHETTO DEL LA I B Fontego C R I . LARG CA Santa Maria RGA M R I L A S ON. A SAN LORENZO San Rocco Basilica M FO CORTE DEL A

L CE F Chiesa Rettoriale ER LI I Z O D AZZIN R BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO CALL CALLEZ R Santa Maria Z Dolfin Manin Z E SABION CAMPO CORTE Formosa Palazzo N A O M DA E Palazzo Rava I FONDAMENTA MINOTTO E dei Frari O DEL MONDO Rio Nuovo T CAMPO di S. Polo L CORTE NOVA IN CAMPOIELLO STAGNC. DEL DE LA FAVA S T A MA Rialto CORTE I CA della Fava NUOVO IO F ORET ELLODE DE LA PASINA LIC A I E Grimani M Rio San L DE N ON SACCA CALL AR FOND CORTE LLE DE L’OG P SAN SALVADOR CA T DEI FRARI (Palazzo Cavalli) ZAR LIO SA C DO Rio Del Magazen M O I C. A D AL SAN O LIZADA A o della Consolazione O E A E SA CORTE D Z C LE N O

C AM M BEMB V LVADOR CORTE ONI CA BAN A A S LE DO Unique in Venice O EN CALLE L RUBBI DE SAN L A FABBRICA TABACCHI CAMPO L NT TA DE ME ENTA SAN ORENZO LE N S.Silvestro LICINI LLE E A ERERIA EL O CA T O CAMPIELLO A D DAMENT C O T DR SAN ROCCO SV Lab D ANT’A CALL SA E FON Palazzo E SA QUERINI L SAL Teatro L San Giovanni A E S E GA S LA AL C L STAMPALIA RUG N NO A L MUS S I IZA CCO C L L G I L E L EVER orenzo DA S O E CA Querini OR L From the ’Follow Your Dream’ collection by DODO, S MA T MA Carlo Goldoni San Salvador DE A C A CASTELLO E C R R C di Malta E C A E . DE ZA GIU E AN PANTALO N R N A CORTE DEL i MEZ S L CA Palazzo A N I L o R S CORTE O C L L I L A E Z SA L LE E DEL C O ALBI LE Stampalia FF CORTE CAL L As itsO name suggests, more than a shop, SV Lab is a Sa O O TEATRO R ZULIAN B E E DE A P T TE R FRUTARIOLI D L I COR n S N E IA CORTE DELLE GATE E L Querini-Dubois O A PIT CA CA L TEA LL N L SA L’ IERI DEI ALBA CA E EL AN NUOVA CAL Palazzo L NE D al BAL L LO CA C La Biennale di Venezia E e CORTE DEL ALLE L L L E CORTE ION this braceletZO is embellished with precious components L R va INA d E E R LLE L CALLE DEI FURLANI BON POZZO ROVERSO CAMPIELLO LO CAMPO A E ZORZI n GR C P CA C dor C LU SBIACCA STRETA CALL D TRAMONTIN CA DA CALLE DEI PRETI CAL AVAL IS .D T IO ZA RÀ DEI PENS a Grimani creative workshop that itsELLO ownerPISC Carlo Sartori likes LI Educational Arsenale E LU E A DUE POZZI E r IMA CO L D S CAMPOIELLO L SAN TOMÀ N LLE TAG ETI DIREZIONE PORTO MARITTIMO E A RONA I PR RIO TE G SA C MA E DE C L PIA L NI E DE C IAPI REME AL A I R CO C DE LA Arsenale di Venezia l L L CALLE B CAL L .DE ZAR LLE FONDAMENTA CAZZIOLA a A I FABB E DE L RA C. D CALL C E I E FRATERNA ASEGO n A S L B E ELLA thatC highlight its creativity to perfection. A I P D C CA a LO ANSan Giuliano E AL San Tomà IGN ALL CAL G L to describeZEN R as “hisTE parallelZ world”. Not just a shop C. D L C E L OL U GAZEN L GA I LIA CORTE E DEL MA I SC E CR E I CALL DE DEL TRAG San LucaCAMPIELLO EL MA N San Giovanni Novo L San Beneto IA E D DEL FORNO UD OS C CAMPO San Pantalon LL T B La Biennale di Venezia Rio dei T DELLA CA CA AL E Sant'Angelo S N I AS SAN ZUANE RDO ARI R CHIESA L LE SM CA O A L CORTE L’ T Giardino delle Vergini ol E NOVO TA DE ION FO ent HET CAMPO REDIVO D CRE EN Teatro alle Tese LLE EI N sellingCORTE shoes andGRAGOLINA accessories - a place where you A AM DAM ini Palazzo SA Palazzo ECI M SP SPE S FOND LIZA I ENTA CO Z TO DEL LEONAC D AR CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE A . PI A S L’ ADA A RI R A GR A N GOL N DE SCINA SAN MARTIN LA A O FORNO CHIE I NUOVO Z CALLE DEL FIGHER N TON NTON E PI SAN PANTALON Giustinian Nervi ARI RI O O IN CALL VECCHIO NA DE DURO I T Rio de le Vergini CAMPO L A RI San Giorgio O D D FONDAMENTA RIZ SESTIERE G A RCO E A L GA RAGUSEI ON EL RA D G PET N AN M . COR Persico NI MANIN C. E E S can create a sophisticated, eccentric total look - but M Scattolin CA T E L C AR I LONN Palazzo Fortuny O CAL DI SAN MARCO EA E LE C L LARGA RI dei Greci ATER D ’ A C. AZZ O LLE IC CAMPO L TR N P CA ON Canale delle Fondamenta Nuove

LE C. A R AN FUSERI S. Toma' SX S STR RÀ C C I O LE L LLE O DE LA SAN OCANDE E AL CALLE LE E LE L D L DEL R L L A LA CERTOSA I E O LLE A CA L A C O L L RIO TE C R A L GI PROVOLO E C CA CORTE DELL’ALBERO OLA C I E T E D D E C. DEL N NAT LLE T E N O O B G NDAMENTA PROCURATIE A LO also anC open space where it is not unusual to find CALLE CONT R R BAL E PI O A I L CA I O IN F R AGH À E PIAZZETTA R

ENI V IN O A D Arsenale di Venezia ALL TIERE DORSO SI V MA LE M S GA L C.D SELLO D ST ARINA ER S Rio Del Palazzo S ZA AL L N

C CAMPO Palazzo FONDA RI O C A A L DEI LEONCINI PE S OTO C S O S E SALI E ND A CORTE CALL DE Palazzo Balbi NN D AT E E T ND. NA À L SAN TERAZZ LLE TO C. DE L E I ER RA Basilica di San Pietro di Castello SES C ER A MO PRI A FO I O T A I TORRETTA CA MO DE LA PERGOLA C FABB E location features over the classics of the male wardrobe: the suit, a second Mocenigo A E F T L IO ON ES ASSE LORENZO R M LLE A C E CAMPO N CAMPO F CAL R OR artists at work... Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun E ON C L CA CA D ELLO I NA L C A AM R P N CALLE LL AL LE DEL V SAN GALLO I DE E LARGA R TR T DO T L LBA LE A A CERERI AP PIE C D R PI C TI A TA BANDIERA CALL E M EI FO LE D E EN C ’ A T A D . LLE A L MO O RO D CORTE A DE San Zaccaria S N NTA F LE E DE C LA GRI ME E DE E SE T N OSA SCAR E EL OV CI A CR A S ONDA N DE CALL L’A CAL DELLE ANCORE BIA L V E MORO LLE San Martino RAG R A O E 100 top fashion brands for menN skin that is so comfortable that it can be worn on any FONDAM NA S. S EL CA OS SEO FO A A CA RS T F O N D A LL IN TA’ Basilica ERA A L AD V ALLE E E C LLED A IOL 11am-6pm. www.svlab.it. San Marco, 2663 (Campo I PE A E D M E C A CAL TAR C OL L P FONDAMENTA N TA A R S E N M A FRU E L C

ALLE ’ V C CAMPO DI S C. E L US C O RAMO LA EN C TR TT A ELE AL EC di San Marco PIO A L A DE L ALLE DEL U C L

L E E DEI Gerolamo San CHIA E O Santa Maria CO MU E L SALIZ CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI IN DEL D TA ROSSA E E SANTA CAMPIELLO CAMPO RT LA M VA and DE women, carefully selected to occasion. Other locations: Cannaregio (inside the FONDAM I I E R L CAFE I O DOSE LE San Giovanni Battista TERC NE N ARSENALOTTI HE E ELE LE C CAL ZZ Bacino VE

Bacino Stazione Marittima EG L

e San Maurizio). T: 041 5220595. Vaporetto line 1 (Giglio della Pietà d NT DE LA DEI E CROSERA L FO L DEI MARGHERITA T RON V LE IER LI CA O CALL DEL A IN CAL VIDA CAMPO RI in Bragora SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO SQUELINI Orseolo ET La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale a ZZE A SAN MARCOA E F

SALIZADA S. SAM I FRE RI MOR Rio DE OND. RI E C. VOLTO B D NOL A offer its clientele qualityALLE and elegance.G Santa Lucia Railway Station, Platform 6- Fondamenta E R C. DEI TO L SANT’ANZOLO IN n E BOT C SC ARRO SCA O NTA DE L' ARZ RIO TERA I O CA O PI L C E S OGI C stop). Map E5 L INA ’ San Fantin E L DE P LLE D ALL CAMPO RDO OZZE DE E C E F O N D CA NA a R E GHE AL Palazzo R L ALL PIAZZA SAN MARCO Palazzo Ducale E AL A M LLE BER L EGHE E CA A C E N CA CA L R I VA D E G L I S C H I AV O N I L TA A N L E DEI A OT LA CHIES NI R S E D GLI SCHIAVONI A LLE DE E N LE C O EN A L GUAR l E ES R E DRIO R E L L R D MU TA CAL C CA I V A D E S LO Grassi FO Ca'Macana CARMINI R These include casual men’s lines for a sporty-chic Santa Lucia, 20) and Marco Polo Airport. Open LE C CAL L E LE UG Carmini G CA H ALLE RI D Santo Stefano NI I DEI AR FO SAN PIETRO DI V Museo CAS

BRIATI L CA ARA A O T ’ M D LE A A E L LLE T CA L LE LE CA L IANI C A L D INT C E L VECCHIA Rio del E A E L’ . San Samuele A A DE LE r PRIMORIN CA T E R Correr VID Ca' Rezzonico O A RG QU MEN T D A E A A NAL RAM RE a Teatro la Fenice E CON N ’ T look, sartorial designs for savvy-style gentlemen and L A Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. www. FONDAMENTA SANTA MARTA E’ D CAMPO COR A CAMPO LAMO S. Samuele AS LO Santa Maria T E CAMPIELLO MOIS E SA ALLE FOND S. Zaccaria (Pieta') L P n A Canale Scomenzera L C. S DE CAL C A ● A C LA T SANTO STEFANO A ZI DEI CALEGHERI E A D CIN NA Ca' Rezzonico NSIO dei Carmini SC IS EN ART GALLERIES S. Zaccaria (Danieli) MEN d E P C C L RA A MO DE O L A ZE S A TANA ALLE A A San Moisè N women’s wear, featuring the iconic accessories of the boggi.it. San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 S San Barnaba e FONDAMENTA F O N ZZ RTOR CAMPO E D A M E N TA T C. San Maurizio R I O D E L L EL C ER A RDINI MOLO SAN MARCO A TA Palazzo Loredan A DEI FORNI FOND N A S CRO LO GHER LL CAL LONGHI A LO A SAN MOISE’ C A CAMPIEL TA CORTE CAL C N F E CC CA . ON A LA L D AMEN V I LE C ’ N ARZO LLE M N L PO O OR FO MICHIEL II L O S C XX CALLE V L A latest collections, including small leather goods and OR DE LE 2960321. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso

RIE D R A L IA LLE Bugno Art Gallery E DE A E ARG L ERA I E L E TR CH CAL CA E A L L S F L L

CAL Rio San Moise Arsenale ED A CAMPO A LO MENT NICOL N L O Santa Maria CA RESS ZO E DEGLI R F L ED LE E VA AN I I TRE IZ P S L RI Museo Storico Navale di Venezia RIDO LLE TA A P L PR IE T O A N SAN MAURIZIO I ’ MA A ZIEN O CI A C NUO CALLE DEL IA del Giglio O N RA San FrancescoR RCA HIN N M ALLE SAN SA I bijoux, for a glamorous, cosmopolitan aesthetic. The stop). ETI OACC D Map F4 C CAMPO TTO CALLE DI CA Situated in front of the La Fenice Theatre, the OR FOND. SAN GI ARTIR C N ZE E E LUNGA SAN BARNABA A V F L L P Angelo CAMPO L GIUST SANTA MARIA LL A di Paola N N A SE A San Nicolò CA CALLE S A N T ' E E CAMPO DEL F O N D A M E N TA C DRIO IL A C EMIA DEL GIGLIO I BASTIA STRIN C A G ALL CORTE E Raffaele CIMITERO LLE San Vidal E R T DE IMANI CAL dei Mendicoli E N A I G E L L PISANI T store offers numerous special facilities and services LAR BAROZZI ALL galleryR has cooperated with well-known artists D

L C EATA EUF ON DONI AGHETTO FI E B S. Marco (Vallaresso) N NA E ETTO CAMPO I E E CASE NUOV L L CALL P Palazzo CAL E D E DE L’ANZOLO U CAL 100 m L L A C Ca'Macana CAMPO TI CAL VIA GIUSEPPE GARIBALDI LE Istituto Universitario RAFAEL CAMPIELLO CAMPIELLO L L A C SAN SEBASTIAN I Corner Ca' Giustinian for its customers, including a Personal Shopping E

T on the Venetian scene including Guidi, Giuseppe LE TRAGH S SAN VIDAL CONTARINI L TT AT B

L’ CH Di Architettura O DEPARTMENT STORES E CO della A L A S E L L A C FO

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NGE INI C C GAZZ PPO A DORSODURO V EL

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N AT O A OGNISAN LE DEL DOGE DA P E L A I V T S I One of the oldest and finest mask Ca’Granda PI D. D. ’ CALLE DIETRO E R O NA L service and Tax Free Shopping. Open Mon-Sat L C

A Accademia Santomaso, Emilio Vedova and Armando Pizzinato, L N PA A A M L R AL San Sebastiano O SA C E E A

CA T TTI L

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N N NA O E SAN BASILIO T CALL Palazzo E

RI S FFE U I G O L O P E I SEB Coin Excelsior SAN ALI Ponte C O R ZAD CAMPO C making workshops in Venice for 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.alducadaosta. . A S as well as other international contemporary painters. E SE AN BESA NT Pisani O S A CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI DELLA CARITÀ N I R A G E P P E S DORSODURO ASTIAN G dell'Accademia N ER IO GIA A I B CALLE DE LA CHIESA D C FO N Santa Maria R I VA D E I B Chiesa di Ognissanti . NDAM Gritti N O I ENT D O N A REMITE SA Located in Cannaregio, just a few steps from the DE E del Giglio M E O A E COLO GN T com. San Marco, 4945. T: 041 5220733. Vaporetto line L I C SANT E Carnival, theatre, film production and N Gallerie Particularly noteworthy among the illustrious names TA LL I C E E Salute N M A R I N A C L L CAMPO O R M a n CA I al e CO Grand EC I TTI FO SAN BESAGIO dell'Accademia NDA ME S S S A O Palazzo NTA T NDA SAL L DAMEN UTE E T T E M A R T I R I O N Rialto Bridge, this luxury department storeB store CAMPO CA EL FOND. DE FO CA L 1 (Rialto stop). Map F4 LA L FO E DEL represented by the gallery are Luca Campigotto, parties. Ca’ Macana crafts authentic P Genovese DELLA L IST L ORT O Collezione Peggy OG R C. C SANT I D E C N SALUTE O IS C I A DA NT San Trovaso ' R AGN I E Guggenheim T DE ESE CAMPO DI N Punta della Dogana extends over four floors surrounding the original E L ENTA SAN GIUSEPPE E I P LE F C SAN VIO E ONDAM NI ALLE I CALLE DEL BASTION T Paolo Ventura, Ben Vautier, Mario Schifano, Arman, I DAM S E T N AL NA handmade masks in the same way that C I E NI A T C FO EN LL NA E R FODAMENTA ZATTERE TA O D ELL O San Giuseppe B N A Boggi Milano ON CAMPO CH Basilica di LIN IE indoor courtyard where designer Felice Limosani’s TIA San Gregorio SA I SAN TROVASO SCARIN MENTA NA IER di Castello S. Basilio O 100 m A Salvo, Joe Tilson, Maurizio Galimberti, Marco Zanta, FO F ND. VENIER DA I LE FONDAMENT Santa Maria Venetian artisans did 800 years ago, EN ON SEBAS OND R AL PONT F della Salute An easy yet sophisticated look for businessmen BRAGADIN CAMPO lighting installation is showcased. The store provides O ENIE TA ENI N ISEPO NI ISCINA V N CUM NI O V ATE SA E LONGO P RÀ C Giovanni Chiaramonte. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am- NT TER SAN ISEPO TA ON RIO RÀ T'A I E never repeating a decoration in order O T SAN RIO TERRÀ I EN I SALO R DO SAB A FON on the go, but, above all, a guarantee of style for U FONDAME PAL SOR R a selection of both Italian and International fashion LE IO RE A

DEL

DA CAL C TE E FONDAM E 7pm; TESun 4pm-7.30pm by appointment. www. Santa Maria A O LL T D

A E i CAPPU R A LU MEN N V I A L E X X I V to ensure that each mask is unique. NES SA R Z LI Giardini Z À Z ADA Z LE PA ZI CORT L del Rosario DEL those who appreciate quality. Boggi Milano offers n M S A G G I Sant’Agnese FORN DEO CA N I NTA O O ALO brands, as well as furniture (on the top floor), i D TAFORNACE Chiesa di NA A CALLE bugnoartgallery.it. San Marco, 1996/d (Campo San G CAMPO DI DEL NAVARO NI AME

d L Chiesa di Santa Maria LE RA SANT'AGNESE RI O TE RRÀ SAN VI O LA San Giorgio Maggiore B Their masks were featured in important F r ON A FOND E D CINA SANT'AG garments aimed at a contemporary, modern and AM F della Visitazione EN IS NT OR cosmetics and luxury perfumery (ground floor). a TA ZA P S. Giorgio T ME TE Fantin). T. 041 5231305. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San i RE A AI G N

ESU ND I A A T C I G film productions including “Eyes Wide FO BIL E cosmopolitan man who is not prepared to sacrifice

Giudecca Hilton RA Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www.coinexcelsior.com.

L L O S A N l CU Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4 Zattere N I V I

TE F e ONDA E L O NOVEMBRE FOND N M L Shut” by Stanley Kubrick and in operasAMEN TO BEATE G EN R A L E G IA R TA ZATTERE DELA CREA d CALLE V IULI CA AN United States I A CHE CAMPIELLO A C A L LLO S M O L E M O N T E P DEL VAPORETTO PI A S U B I O R o ITO ZUC Pavilion L E SA LE including those staged by the Vienna NT O Contini Galleria d’Arte Russia i VIA AL CALLE Spirito Santo FO R N C DAMENTA D Pavilion Giudecca Hilton ZATTERE V I N I MC . Opera House. Established at the end of the 1960s by Stefano ISOLA DI IALE P U B B L IC I O F N T ONDA Spirito Santo PI Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo CALLE DE LA SA Japan SE A B O Contini to indulge his passion for art, the gallery SAN AVE FONDAM SAN GIORGIO C . D E SACCA CA Pavilion L C A R S O Dorsoduro 3172. T: 041 2776142. MEN CALLE DEL VAPORETTO ENTA SAN BIAGIO is a reference point for dealers and collectors T I N O

MAGGIORE TA CALLE DE CA LLE LARGFISOLA A D T LLA CHIESA EI L NTA SAN GIOVANNI S www.camacana.com AV ' RANE TO RI OT E ANT'E

specializing in contemporary art works and HIN LE R A L E C PON ONDAME N E TE F LLA N LA V A L L E G E A RA C RE C Ò NER sculptures. In addition to Venice, other branches . LENA Sant'Elena I Z U G N A SACCA SA San Gerardo Sant'Eufemia of the Contini galleries are located in Mestre and P A S ICOL Zitelle N Giudecca Palanca F. Le Zitelle C A L CAMPIELLO F O N D A M E N TA S A N T ' E U N SAN CATALDO L E SANT'ELENA SAN BIAGIO CAMPIELLO E C SAN GERARDO LL Teatro Verde A Cortina D’Ampezzo. Artists showcased include CALLE R N A R O VIALE Aeroporto Nicelli Venezia Lido F E M I A CAL Botero, Mitoraj, Christo, Picasso, Fontana and LE CONVE RT ITE FONDAMENTA ZITE R I V I E R A S A FONDAM V I A L E I V N O V E M B R E E Giacometti. Open daily 10.30am-1pm/2pm-7.30pm. NTA Parco delle PONTE O PIC style are the hallmark traits of VenetianCO shoe designer LO Rimembranze PASSION TIP The only shop in town where you V I A L E V I T T O R I O V E N E T O T E Gabriele Gmeiner LL'OLI www.continiarte.com. San Marco, 2288 (Calle Larga Lido S. Nicolo' AR GIUDECCA M CA Michele De Fina. Open dailyRRANDO 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. L L E E LE DE F O N D A M E N can find authentic gondolier’s hats. Open Mon-Sat COS FE TA Redentore L LO CAMPO DI MO I AL S A N G I Austrian by birth and Venetian by adoption, ERB TA A C O M O XXII Marzo). T: 041 5230357. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San IL C E DA L CAMPIE L E SANT’ELENA www.micheledefina.com. San Marco, 318/A (Calle C ON DE FONDAMENTA CROCE C CAL AL NOB TRET T E A L 10am-7pm. www.giulianalongo.com. San Marco, 4813 S I LUNGO CALLE MASON LE

E LL E Gabriele Gneimer is a real footwear guru, boasting RO O Marco-Vallaresso). Map E5 L E O GRANDE LE CA M SP Scuola Navale Militare A O T E PONT C AN M C I H E L A N G E L O della Canonica). T: 041 3030189. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 I ZIO A N CAL O CAL G R C (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 5226454. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 GI LE "Francesco Morosini" DE ME L AN N LA an impressive resume. The designer studied at CORT I CROCE A L L E R A M O ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA F A S C Santissimo Redentore LE (San MarcoL stop or San Zaccaria stop). Map F4 Galleria RavagnanO (Rialto stop). Map F4 FONDA E R CA CALLE U FO AMENTA Q LLE ACCADEMIA D NDAME several of the world’s most prestigious design D S NTA PAL LE GER LADA A L CA CALLE ON CALLE MORE C N F SCU O Founded in 1967, in a fairly small yet evocative space LA Santa Croce K L I schools and several of her handcrafted pieces are E Piedàterre C E C AMPO J B O R A La Parigina E VIA CALLE SCUO E in the historic centre, the RavagnanO NDERI Gallery is one LA L CA F U LLE AL RIO CR BER O exhibited at museums. Her shoes, known as ‘Ferrari NGHANS DE DELLA Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the TA

N LLE L L E An historic Venetian shoe shop which has been A E CA

C M A of the city’s oldest, most exclusive art galleries in Footwear’, are built entirely around the shape of her Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing producing its own-name sleek, butter-soft leather FOND Rio del Ponte Lungo the city. It exhibits works by artists of national and LÒ CALL customers’ feet. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/2pm-6pm. selection of handmade slippers where Alessandra E ORT I shoes for men and women since the 1940s. It also international renown, exports art works throughout By appointment only. www.gabrielegmeiner.com. and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ Hundertwasser' Garden V AI C stocks a wide selection of international brands the world and participates at prominent international San Polo, 951 (Campiello del Sol). T: 338 8962189. including Church’s, Timberland, Camper, Michael (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre PI R O ERA SAN NICO and American art fairs. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; I Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map E3 treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Kors, Bikkemberg sandals and Siton loafers. Sun 10am-6pm. www.ravagnangallery.com. Piazza RIV O La Parigina also carries an assortment of luxury Their creations are available in coloured velvet, RIN San Marco, 50/a. T: 041 5203021. Vaporetto line 1 (San MA Giovanna Zanella brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, sportswear. www.laparigina.it. Open daily 10am- Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 For the past ten years, Venetian designer-cobbler 7.30pm. San Marco, 733. T: 041 5231555. Vaporetto provided by their customers. PASSION TIP Giovanna Zanella has been creating exclusive lines of line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 • Open daily Highly original and absolutely unmissable! Open Melori & Rosenberg Gallery DELL'OSPIZIO shoes for men and women at her workshop located 9am-1pm/4pm-8pm. Venezia Lido, Gran Viale S. M. daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. Opened in 1996, it was the first Gallery to exhibit An exclusive collection V I A just a stone’s throw from the Rialto Bridge. Each pair Elisabetta 14, T: 041 2420475. Vaporetto line 2 (Lido San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). contemporary art in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo. The Merchant of Venice exemplifies the historic role played by the city of Venice, V I A F R A N C E S C O D U O D O is endowed with its own, unrepeatable personality stop). Off Map T: 041 5285513. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato). A unique Italian representative for Luigi Rocca’s V I A C I P R O and Giovanna refers to them as “magical, haute Map E3 artworks, the Gallery also showcases the artworks worldwide, in the art of perfume-making. It carries a selection of different product lines couture creations” because they are often enhanced Macrì of other well-known Italian and international artists. René Caovilla inspired by the tradition of the Venetian Republic; sublime craftsmanship and trade by a surprise element like touches of nylon, cobra This shoe boutique in San Marco - its other branch Open daily 9.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm. www. S. Servolo In the 1950s, twenty-year-old René started working with the Far East. At its Flagship Store in Campo San Fantin you can discover the new, heads, pistils or fringes. Open Mon-Sat 1.30pm-8pm. is located in Frezzeria - has been a reference point melori-rosenberg.com. Cannaregio, 2919 (Campo V I A M . F O S C A R I N I at his family’s footwear factory, revealing his talent exclusive ‘La Fenice’ collection, a tribute to the Gran Teatro La Fenice, one of the V I A F R A N C E S C O D U O D O www.giovannazanella.it. Castello, 5641 (Calle near for discerning Venetians since the 1970s. Its owner del Ghetto Novo). T: 041 2750039. Vaporetto line 4.1 as a ‘footwear sculptor’. Based in Venice, he has Campo San Lio). T: 041 5235500. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 Jacopo Nobili sells sought-after, classic men and or 5.1 (Fondamente Nove stop). Map D4 world’s most legendary opera houses. Conveying the perfect harmony between music collaborated with fashion houses of the likes of IA AQUILEIA ISOLA LA GRAZIA V (Rialto stop). Map F4 women’s shoes, distinguished by their Made in Italy and olfactory pleasures, this collection has been designed to offer customers a unique, Valentino, Dior, Galliano, Chanel and is noted for the SAN SERVOLO aesthetic. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 420 CLOTHING RIVIERA SANTA MARIA ELISABETTA V I A F R À M A U R O Giuliana Longo stunning line of "jewel shoes" he co-created with sensorial experience. The two fragrances for him and her are bottled in exquisite IRNE (Calle Larga). T: 041 522 9956. Vaporetto line 1 (San M A milliner boasting a longstanding family tradition Marco stop) Map F4• Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Karl Lagerfeld. Shoe-designer to the stars, A-listers MEN & WOMEN flacons interpreted in chromatic shades of light blue and gold, the hallmark colours of V I A S dating back to the early 20th century, Giuliana Marco Frezzeria, 1583. T: 041 522 8997. who adore his creations include Gwen Stefani, Robin the theatre. www.themerchantofvenice.com Longo’s fame has spread far beyond the boundaries Wright, Britney Spears and Sarah Jessica Parker. Al Duca d'Aosta Flagship Store San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. of Venice, thanks to her unique Venetian aesthetic. Michele De Fina PASSION TIP His pumps in Venetian lace are truly Originally established in Venice in 1902, Al Duca Her shop is the dream hat-cupboard of any d’Aosta now boasts stores in six cities across the Spezieria all’Ercole d’Oro Cannaregio, 2233 (Strada Nova, Santa Fosca). T: 041 720600. VICOLO ZENO Highly select leather shoes, its owner oversees each iconic! Open daily 10am-7pm. www.renecaovilla. Tempio Votivo Triveneto region: Venice, Padua, Verona, Mestre, Della Pace Di Venezia V I A PA O L O E R I Z Z O true sartorialist, amidst old-world furnishings, stage of the working process from the cutting of the com. San Marco, 1296. T: 041 5238038. Vaporetto line Concept Store Murano Fondamenta dei Vetrai, 114. Murano. T: 041 5274297. VIA NEGROPONTE

Treviso and Udine. The historical four-storey Venice G R A N V I A L E S A N TA M A R I A E L I S A B E T TA ELE D'ANNUNZIO original panama hats and handmade headgear. leather to the end creation. Craftsmanship and Italian 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 V I A Z A R A

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cafés and even an annual summer music festival. Tax Pomellato La Bottega dei Mascareri refund for Non-EU citizens. Open daily 10am-10pm. Established in 1967 as an artisanal workshop, over The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in Artistic glass in Murano www.mcarthurglen.com. Via Marco Polo, 1 (Noventa the years, its contemporary jewelry has captivated the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian di Piave, 30 minutes from Venice). T: 0421 5741. Off wearers around the world. Pomellato creates highly masks, including jesters, elves and characters from Map sought-after collections featuring a range of stones the ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th boasting myriad colours and ultra-feminine designs. century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for Palmanova Outlet Village Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www. the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are Just one hour from Venice, Palmanova Outlet pomellato.com. San Marco, 2031 (Calle Larga XXII considered among several of the most established Village offers 90 stores with the trendiest brands Marzo). T: 041 5231909. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco- manufacturers of collector’s items. PASSION TIP discounted by up to 70% and open all year Vallaresso stop). Map F4 They were the first mask makers to embellish their around: Adidas-Reebok, Aldo Bruè, Baldinini, Crafted in rose gold set with a diamond and masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am- Alberta Ferretti-Moschino, Calvin Klein, Fedon, Salvadori a white ceramic heart, DAMIANI’s ‘D.Icon’ 6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80 (Vaporetto Iceberg, Ixos-Malloni, Nike, Piquadro, Pollini and ROLEX RETAILER Salvadori was founded in necklace typifies the maison’s sophisticated, line 1 or 2, Rialto stop). T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, many others. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. In Venice in 1857. A member of the World Federation glamorous design. 2720 T: 041 5242887 (Vaporetto line 1 or 2, San Tomà addition to shopping, Palmanova Outlet Village of Diamond Bourses, Salvadori purchases its stop). Map E3 makes you discover a land full of history and taste: diamonds from Antwerp and Tel Aviv, accompanied the picturesque hills of the Collio region, the by Dodo, the brand founded by Pomellato in 1995, is by the highest diamond quality certificates. Open The Merchant of Venice landscapes of Friuli’s Dolomites and the Alps, close by now a classic either for gift or collection purposes Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www. The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this brand to the Karst plateau with the historical sites of the thanks to its iconic good luck charms, each of which salvadori-venezia.eu. Diamond Atelier Venice: Piazza which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in Venice’ is Great War and the star-shaped city of Palmanova, has its own special meaning. www.dodo.it. c/o Coin San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Salvadori Boutique housed in the former, mid-17th century apothecary of a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Open daily 10am- Excelsior (www.coinexcelsior.com). Cannaregio, Rolex: Piazza San Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Salvadori San Fantin, located just steps from La Fenice Opera 8pm. www.palmanovaoutlet.it. Take the A4 highway 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto Boutique Panerai: Piazza San Marco, 47. T: 041 House. Its neo-Gothic décor and ornamentation in Venezia-Trieste and exit at Palmanova. Infoline: stop). Map F3 5200899. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso walnut, wood and terracotta, reflect the typical style stop). Map F5 T: 0432 837810. Off Map of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice Gems of Venice is not only a line of products but a wider project Glassmaking had already become an sought out the glassblowers of Murano to For more than thirty years, Gems of Venice has Tag Heuer which includes a concept store in Murano, the integral part of life in the Venetian lagoon produce their famous works. JEWELRY & WATCHES sourced the most precious stones, which are then Since 1860 Tag Heuer has been setting milestones Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa Croce, the Spice Audemars Piguet processed at its workshop near the Rialto Bridge, in in Swiss watchmaking. It is the first watchmaker in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, after As a result of this experience, during the shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) and the World A must-visit stopover for luxury watch lovers. A the heart of Venice, to become authentic wearable to master luxury sports chronographs with an the year 1000 A.D. its production had mid-20th century, real masters of the art of Venice space at the Marco Polo Airport. www. purveyor of classic watches since 1875, Audemars art. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-9.30pm; Sun 10.30am- unsurpassed precision. Tag Heuer’s constant become so important that it was protected began to emerge in Murano including themerchantofvenice.com. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am- Piguet is the place to go for elegant timepieces, 2pm/3.30pm-6.30pm. San Polo, 1044. T: 041 5225148. quest for innovation, excellence, performance and 7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 by specific laws: the furnaces used to Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal. made to the very highest standards. Open Mon-Sat Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 prestige is reflected in its partnerships with the 2960559. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso create the molten glass were a constant fire Their works are highly coveted objects, 10.30am-6.30pm. www.audemarspiguet.com. Piazza Red Bull Racing F1 team. Open daily 10am-7pm. IWC Schaffausen stop). Map F4 San Marco, 18. T: 041 5285519. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto www.tagheuer.com. San Marco, 1298 (Salizada hazard in the narrow streets of Venice. As true collectors’ items which are often Swiss watchmaker IWC has opened an elegant space stop). Map F4 San Moisè). T: 041 5211401. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto Venini a consequence, all the glass workshops displayed at museums. in Venice’s famed and fabled St. Mark’s Square. The stop). Map F4 An artistic space, where you rediscover all the Boncompagni Venezia brand’s new boutique, located in one of the most were moved to Murano where they are still Murano has numerous glass factories, elegance and sophistication of the exquisite This historic boutique in St. Mark’s Square stocks beautiful cities in the world, is a must-visit for any Tiffany & Co. located today. several of which boast an age-old history creations handcrafted by Master glassmakers some of Italy’s most coveted jewelry brands, offering watch enthusiast. Fans of its luxury timepieces are NEW OPENING Founded in 1837 in New It was here that eyeglasses were invented (i.e. Barovier&Toso) or a list of particularly from Murano. A prime location for passionate its clientele a unique selection of beautifully crafted invited to discover the fascinating world of IWC’s six York, Tiffany & Co. is a world-renowned jeweller. ® collectors, or those whose want to further their in the 13th century and here that, in 1369, prestigious collaborations (i.e. Venini). pieces. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-6pm. watch families, its innovative craftsmanship and all Since its introduction in 1886, the Tiffany Setting knowledge about an entirely Italian art, Venetian mirrors began to be produced. It was also Crafting authentic Murano glass is no www.boncompagnivenezia.com. Piazza San Marco, the allure of high-end watchmaking. Open Mon-Sat has been known as the ultimate symbol of love, glass creations, meticulously handcrafted by 130/131/132. T: 041 5224563. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.iwc.com. paving the way for Tiffany’s legendary collection here that, in 1450, Angelo Barovier invented easy task and does not come cheap. Large Master craftsmen. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www. stop). Map F4 Piazza San Marco, 43. T: 041 8842451. Vaporetto line 1 of engagement rings. Bold, modern collections, crystal. Glass was a rare commodity objects require hours of work, so don’t venini.com. San Marco, 314. T: 041 5224045. Other or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 including the elegant, minimalist creations throughout the Renaissance: it was only expect to take your custom-made lamp Cartier designed by Elsa Peretti and the brightly-coloured location: Fondamenta Vetrai, 47 (Murano). T: 041 in 1827 that production on an industrial home on the same day. Furthermore, In addition to its renowned collections of haute Jaeger-LeCoultre lines by Paloma Picasso, have made Tiffany a 2737204. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto or San Marco A meeting place for collectors and haute stops). Map F4 level began. At that point, blown glass or each piece is unique meaning that small joaillerie, Cartier is also famous for its priceless destination for those seeking spectacular beauty, timepieces, a perfect mix of design and technology, horlogerie enthusiasts, at this boutique customers style and the very best in design. Open daily 10am- glass produced by lampworking became imperfections are an integral part of the enhanced by precious metals and diamonds. Open will have the pleasure of discovering the latest 7.30pm. www.tiffany.it. San Marco, 1336 (Calle a highly prized material used for artistic value of the object. Finally, the island’s Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.cartier. creations and exquisite timepieces designed by Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Vaporetto line 2 (San purposes, achieving its height of splendor glass factories are equipped to make safe it. San Marco, 1474/1475 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 this master of Swiss watchmaking. Open daily Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

during the Art Nouveau period. Artists deliveries anywhere in the world… ask 8842511. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso 10am-7pm. www.jaeger-lecoultre.com. Piazza San stop). Map F5 Marco, 65. T: 041 884241. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto including Lalique, Dammouse and Tiffany your concierge! stop). Map F5 PASSION SHOPPING Chopard Ca’ Macana Famed for its creativity, state-of-the-art technology Nardi Venezia One of the oldest and finest mask making Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or (April-September). www.TFondaco.com. Calle del and outstanding savoir-faire, the Swiss Jewelry brand A combination of a love of precious stones and a workshops in Venice for Carnival, theatre, 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3 Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). opens doors to jet-set luxury and glamour, while its passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s film production and parties. Ca’ Macana T: 041 3142000. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). traditional watches are made with all the aplomb of jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, the T Fondaco dei Tedeschi crafts authentic handmade masks in the Map E3 a master craftsman. Open daily 10.15am-6.30pm. epitome of sheer Venetian elegance. Open daily The recently renovated 16th century building same way that Venetian artisans did 800 www.chopard.it. Piazza San Marco, 51. T: 041 5231883. 10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. Piazza San that extends over 7000 sqm is a luxury shopping, years ago, never repeating a decoration Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto food and cultural destination. Surrounding a FASHION OUTLETS in order to ensure that each mask is unique. stop). Map F5 central courtyard, the store offers the best in Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet Damiani Thanks to their expertise, they also hold leading Italian and international fashion brands, With more than 130 stores, cafés and restaurants, NEW OPENING A reference point in the Omega conferences and courses on the history of Venetian accessories, jewellery and watches, wines and visitors can find their favourite labels with price world of high-end jewelry, Damiani is renowned Omega is a pioneer in the field of watchmaking. masks and traditional mask-making techniques. spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich reductions of up to 70%, all year round, and further for its unmistakable style and innovative technical Quality and innovation are key to the vision of one PASSION TIP Their masks were featured in selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially discounts at the annual summer and winter sales. solutions, including its ‘a lunette d’illusione’ of Switzerland’s most famous haute horologists. At important film productions including “Eyes curated cultural program on the 4th floor and From iconic fashion brands like Prada, Gucci, Armani, setting designed to highlight the brilliance of its its Venetian boutique, you can find all the excellence Wide Shut” by Stanley Kubrick and in operas the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. In Fendi, Jil Sander and Paul Smith to sporting labels, stones. www.damiani.com. San Marco, 1320 (Calle of these precious creations thanks to its extensive including those staged by the Vienna Opera partnership with Premier Tax Free, the store like Nike and X-Bionic, and high-street favourites, Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 2 (San collection of luxurious timepieces for men and House. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.camacana. VENINI’s hand-blown ‘Veronese’ glass vase will also offer an instant detax at the cash desk Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 women. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. com. Maskmaking and Courses: Dorsoduro, 3215. like Guess and Desigual. Easy to reach from Venice, was blown for the first time in 1921 thanks to when the payment is made by credit card, the Treviso, Jesolo, Padua and the beaches in the www.omegawatches.com. San Marco, 1291. T: 041 Showrooms: Dorsoduro, 3172 and Dorsoduro 1169. Vittorio Zecchin, one of the main exponents and Dodo first of this kind in Europe. Open daily, 9.30am- region, it offers endless entertainment, from the 5220820. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco stop or San T: 041 2776142. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). innovators of Muranese glass art. Limited edition. 7.30pm (October-March) and 9.30am-9.30pm The range of luxurious yet cute gold jewelry created Zaccaria stop). Map F4 Map D5 children’s adventure play area to restaurants and

28 WHERE VENICE I MARCH 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 29 SHOPPING SHOPPING Top antiques

Libreria Antiquaria Linea d’Acqua Antique books and priceless prints focusing primarily on preservation and authentic bookbinding methods. PASSION TIP Specializes in 18th century illustrated books, maps and views of Venice and engravings by 18th century Venetian masters. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm-7pm; Sat 10.30am- 12.30pm. www.lineadacqua.it. San Marco 3717/d (Calle della Mandola). T: 041 5224030. Vaporetto line 1 Venezia, Le Stampe Turio or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Studio Arga The owner of Studio Arga, Gabriella Tallon’s expertise curtains. PASSION TIP A unique place! Since 1875, in Oriental and Asian antiques makes this gallery a the company has practiced the art of weaving on must-visit reference point. Open by appointment. original looms that once belonged to the Venetian www.argainc.com. San Marco 3659/a (Calle della School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-4pm (Sat-Sun Verona corner of Rio Terà dei Assassini). T: 041 2411124. by appointment). www.luigi-bevilacqua.com. Santa Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto or San Samuele stop) and line Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Vaporetto line 1 (Riva de Biasio stop). Map D3 2 (San Marco stop). Map E4

Tessitura Bevilacqua Venetia Studium Tessitura Bevilacqua Artisanal weavers specializing in the production The Lando family’s mission is to create and sell of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and “modern object that speak an ancient language”. Venetia Studium not only stocks a wide range of Venice is infused with so many Antichità San Samuele Fortuny® lamps but also splendid silk pillows, fabrics, historical and artistic artefacts An antiques dealer since the Seventies, Silvana handbags and other accessories inspired that the city’s passion for antiques Vianello is renowned for her research and expertise by the ambiences loved by Marià Fortuny. Open in the field. PASSION TIP San Samuele specializes daily 10am-7pm. www.venetiastudium.com San is literally embedded within its in religious antiques, with a particular focus on Marco, 2425. T: 041 5236953. Vaporetto soul. There are so many large and sculptures dating from the 13th through 18th line 1 or 2 (Rialto or Santa Maria del Giglio stop). small workshops that it is almost centuries. Open: Mon-Sat 10am-12.30pm/3.30pm- Map E5 impossible to list them all. Where® 7.30pm. San Marco, 3130 (Calle delle Botteghe). T: 041 5204900. Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop). Map Venezia, Le Stampe Turio has selected a pick, renowned for E4 At this small, refined showroom, Camilla Nicolai their quality and tradition. continues a family tradition established at the Ca’ Nova end of the 19th century by her great grandfather Boasting over 40 years in the industry, Ca' Osvaldo Böhm. Stocks a wide selection of frames, Alessandro Zoppi Nova which means ‘new house’, has decorated antiques and handcrafted Venetian objet d’art. A true son of Venice, Alessandro Zoppi, one of the several of Venice’s most elegant homes with its PASSION TIP Specializes in antique decorative most passionate and authoritative collectors and upholstery fabrics. Wallpaper, curtains, tablecloths prints. Open 10.30am-1pm/3.30pm-7pm. Venetia Studium art merchants in the city, spent his youth travelling and hand-woven sheets. Open Mon-Fri 9am- www.venezialestampe.it. San Marco, 4606 extensively abroad. In 1961, he moved to London 12.30pm/3pm-7.30pm; Sat 9am-12.30pm. www. (Calle Teatro Goldoni). T: 041 5234318. where he stayed for a few years. The owner, for canovatessutitendaggi.com. San Marco, 4264/a Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

more than a decade, of the highly prestigious (Campo San Luca). T: 041 5203834. Vaporetto line 1 or Antichità Cesana, today, Zoppi’s house-museum 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 Antichità San Samuele Ca' Nova features a number of pieces from his impressive collections, with a particular emphasis on artistic Franco Dell’Orto glass objet d’art dating from the 16th through This well-known antique carpet gallery stocks a 20th centuries. PASSION TIP Visiting his fabulous range of large Caucasian and Persian rugs, house-museum, or even talking to Alessandro European tapestries and large-scale decorative Zoppi, is like taking a marvellous journey back pieces. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm- in time. By appointment only. T: 335 6657005. 7.30pm; Sat 9.30am-12.30pm. www.francodellorto. email: [email protected]. com. San Marco, 2052/b (Calle delle Veste, near Teatro La Fenice). T: 041 5224736. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Antichi Splendori Maria del Giglio or San Marco stop). Map E5 Devoted to the ongoing search for objet d’art and antiques, the mission of this highly qualified Le Zoie antique dealer is to keep the interest in authentic Michele Dal Bon’s atelier is infused with personality. masterpieces alive. Its San Lio-based store in PASSION TIP This eclectic shop showcase rare Venice offers a careful selection of the city’s artistic antique watches and jewelry but also specializes in treasures, with a particular focus on antique jewelry, collections that are unlikely to be found elsewhere, Murano glass from the 11th to 20th centuries and including objects inspired by ancient ‘theriaca’, a paintings of Venetian landscapes. Open Mon-Sat medical concoction also known as Venice treacle. Open 9.30am-7pm. Castello, 5545 (Salizada S. Lio) T: 041 Tues-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. www.lezoie. 5239265. [email protected]. Vaporetto line com. San Polo, 1566 (Calle dei Boteri) T: 041 2758694. Antichi Splendori 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3 Alessandro Zoppi Franco Dell'Orto

30 WHERE VENICE I MARCH 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 31 IN SEARCH OF EXCELLENCE BY STEFANO TRAINE Ottica Mantovani dal 1871

AN ANCIENT OTTICA MANTOVANI VOCATION Venice’s natural ability Sun and prescription glasses, the most for trade dates way technologically advanced lenses and the back in time. Bearing most comfortable, fashionable frames. in mind that each day, Managed by the Carlon family since the 40’s. Isola di San Michele www.xxxxxx.org whatever the season, Santa Croce Cannaregio Viale xxxxx, 6 the city’s treasures www.otticamantovani.it Nicolao Atelier T: 02 xxxxx San Marco, 4860 (Mercerie del Capitello). attract thousands of More info: www.wheremilan.com visitors from all over T: 041 5223427. the world, it’s no surprise that every corner of Venice is San Polo packed with shops and Gems of Venice Castello ‘botteghe’ selling all Vino e... Vini kinds of merchandise. Dorsoduro San Marco So, we suggest Testolini that you try to be a Jade Martine little selective when Ottica Mantovani NICOLAO ATELIER shopping. Make sure An artisanal tailor’s shop that makes Venetian- that you choose a shop Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore style period costumes for movies, plays, that really expresses commercials and Carnival parties. the soul of the city. Giudecca Here are a few tips for quality shopping. www.nicolao.com Cannaregio, 2590 (Fondamenta della Misericordia). T: 041 5207051.

VINO E... VINI This must-visit wine ‘boutique’ is located just steps from San Marco. It carries a prestigious selection of Italian and foreign wines as well as an extensive assortment of dessert wines and exclusive grappas. GEMS OF VENICE Castello, 3566 (Salizada del Pignater). In the heart of Venice near the Rialto T: 041 5210184. Bridge, this is a unique boutique and workshop where precious stones are cut and transformed into genuine, wearable works of art. For more than thirty years, Gems of Venice JADE MARTINE has sourced several of the world's The most luxurious lingerie in Venice can be most precious stones including jade, found at this small yet charming boutique diamonds and gems… taking us back that Stephanie and Leila run with ‘Venetian’ to the fascinating voyages of Venetian warmth and French charm. Sophisticated merchant Marco Polo. underwear and accessories, either for personal use or ultra-feminine, high-quality gifts. This boutique stocks a wide assortment of beautiful items, and courteous assistants are always on-hand to offer useful advice. www.gemsofvenice.it A reference point in St. Mark’s since 1995. San Polo, 1044 (Ruga Rialto- Rughetta Ravano) T: 041 5225148 San Marco, 1645. T: 041 5212892.

More info: www.where-venice.com

32 WHERE VENICE I MARCH 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 33 DINING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM TASTING EXPERIENCE Alla Madonna Antico Martini Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s Located next to the La Fenice theatre, with its Enoteca Al Volto most picturesque corners, the Rado family elegant dining rooms, welcoming atmosphere and Excellent wine accompanied by traditional has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its attentive staff, the Antico Martini serves some of ‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca welcoming ambience, characterized by an ancient the best seafood in town. €€€. www.anticomartini. Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop for the com. Campo Teatro Fenice 2007. T: 041 5224121. atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and typical regional cuisine served here. €€€. www. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop) or 2 ristoranteallamadonna.com. San Polo, 594 (Calle (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).Map E5 6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T: 041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. Vaporetto stop). Map E4 line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E4 Antico Pignolo

The hand of owner Eligio Paties, is apparent in its L’Aciughet a Alle Testiere beautifully laid tables and impeccable service. The Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long Set in the heart of Venice between the Rialto traditional Venetian menu is accompanied by a well- “paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with Bridge and St. Mark’s Square, this tiny restaurant stocked cellar boasting more than 900 labels from butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in is the connoisseurs’ choice for fresh fish and all over the world. €€€. www.anticopignolo.com. San oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons, seafood, with a menu that changes frequently Marco, 451 (Calle degli Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’ and a discerning selection of wines. €€€. www. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo osterialletestiere.it. Castello, 5801 (Calle del SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto Mondo Novo). T: 041 5227220. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 Conca d’Oro line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4 (Rialto stop). Map F4 Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, the

Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers Antica Carbonera Osteria alla Rivetta Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor: One of Venice best-known, most traditional of the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht “cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and time, this Venetian institution has been turning that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings. out some of the best pizza in town. €€€. www. Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041 concadorovenice.com. San Marco, 4338 (Campo Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since it 5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5229293. Vaporetto F4 first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw fish line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. €€€. www. TRADITIONAL anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle Bembo). T: 041 Da Fiore 5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 ITALIAN CUISINE A renowned Venetian restaurant that offers top- Antiche Carampane notch cuisine in a sophisticated, elegant setting. A Beccafico Arte A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it Thirty-five years ago, Mara and Maurizio Martin It offers several dining spaces and a small inner has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is a go-to transformed an old osteria into one of the city’s courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key, address for foodies and connoisseurs of fine dining. most famous restaurants. Impeccable service and contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection Its excellent menu, enhanced by the freshest, superlative Venetian dishes composed of carefully with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on top quality ingredients is accompanied by an selected seasonal ingredients have made Da Fiore Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com. Cannaregio, astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays and a must-visit destination. Closed on Mondays. €€€. 2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro Mondays. €€€. www.antichecarampane.com. San www.dafiore.net. San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3 stop). Map E5 Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto- Mercato stop). Map E3 A la Vecia Cavana © SVIDA_WHEREITALIA Set within the picturesque environment of an old restructured cavàna (a typical sloped building used to house boats), this restaurant serves delicious traditional Venetian and Italian cuisine. €€€. www. An oasis in the city marsillifamiglia.it. Cannaregio, 4624 (Rio Terà SS. Apostoli). T: 041 5287106. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ If you’re in search of a unique view or a place to relax after sightseeing or shopping, look no further. Head d’Oro stop). Map F3 Acqua Pazza to the Castello district, located just steps from the Biennale’s Giardini venue. It’s impossible not to notice a Set against the magical backdrop of Campo beautiful Liberty-style steel and glass structure: the Serra dei Giardini. By Stefania Vida Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining experience under the stars. This small corner of Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing dishes. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San Marco, 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 he Serra dei Giardini offers a range tepidarium’ to house the palm trees and other La Serra dei Giardini is now an interesting (Rialto stop).Map E4

of options, from a bucolic lunch decorative plants used for the International meeting place and pleasant area where Al Colombo surrounded by greenery to a trendy Art Exhibition. visitors can relax and read books and T A meeting point since 1986 for an international aperitivo. At the Caffè La Serra, you can Later on, for more than one hundred years, magazines about gardening and nature. clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark sample snacks, aperitivi, tisanes, smoothies the ‘Serra’ represented a workplace for The ‘Serra’ includes a permanent display of features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer, and other organic products. This picturesque generations of gardeners whose secrets were rare plant species, an educational space for guests can dine outside under the romantic light location doubles as a meeting space and a handed down from father to son. In Winter, schools, adults and families, and a cultural of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www.alcolombo.com. San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or venue hosting cultural events, and deserves the premises of the Serra were used to house centre for gardening enthusiasts. The venue 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3 to be mentioned on account of its historical those plants that were particularly sensitive to also sells plants and gardening equipment. background. An interesting fact: the address of the cold weather, but also for the cultivation Al Mercà Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine. the ‘Serra’ is Viale Giuseppe Garibaldi, the only of many others, needed for the creation of the Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect ‘road’ among Venice’s myriad ‘calli’! municipal flowerbeds of the Lido and Venice, >> Serra dei Giardini spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long LA CARAVELLA Originally known as ‘Serra Margherita’, and to decorate the rooms of aristocratic Viale Giuseppe Garibaldi, 1254 day of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17. Set in an evocative and romantic ambience, this haven of culinary excellence boasts a Castello’s Serra dei Giardini was built in 1894 Venetian dwellings during meetings, (Castello district) T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 fabulous selection of Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. See page 37 (Lido stop). Map E3 with the aim of creating an ‘iron and glass receptions and events. www.serradeigiardini.org

34 WHERE VENICE I MARCH 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 35 DINING DINING “Five star” restaurants

Tradition, innovation and creativity: Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite in several top hotels in Venice. By Stefania Vida Club del Doge completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia La Cusina La Cupola c/o The Gritti Palace (www.thegrittipalace.com). L’Alcova with a touch of culinary excellence thanks c/o The Westin Europa & Regina Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a (www.starwoodhotels.com). T: 041 794611. Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99. contemporary, gourmet twist. Its evocative, romantic San Marco 2159. T: 041 2400001. www.clubdeldoge.com. T: 0 41 2413111. ambience conjures up the colours and furnishings www.lacusina.it. The restaurant welcomes guests for a romantic www.casagredohotel.com. of an ancient Venetian vessel. PASSION TIP In For a regenerating lunch break between visiting dinner or lunch overlooking the Grand Canal, where Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over summer, guests can dine ‘al fresco’ in its picturesque, one sight or another or for a romantic dinner, La a welcoming ambience and authentic upscale the Grand Canal, L’Alcova is ‘the’ temple of internal Venetian courtyard. Open: lunch 12pm-3pm, Cusina is the ideal place to enjoy a combination of cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs. dinner 7pm-11pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San taste and relaxation. Choose a table overlooking one. From April to October (weather permitting), PASSION TIP Its dining room faces directly over Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5 the Grand Canal to enjoy a panoramic view of guests can dine on its stunning panoramic terrace. the Canal, in front of the historic Rialto Market, from the city’s historic architecture, while savouring Dining daytime (informal) 12pm-6pm. Dinner daily which the restaurant sources the ingredients for its La Cupola the restaurant’s seasonal dishes which enhance (formal) 7pm- 10pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa menus, accompanied by an astute selection of wines c/o Hotel Carlton on the Grand Canal the rich local flavours of Venice and the islands Maria del Giglio stop). Map E5 from various regions of Italy. Open: lunch 12pm- Santa Croce, 578. of the lagoon. Open: lunch 12pm-2.30pm, dinner 2.30pm, dinner 7pm-10pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ T: 041 2752200. 7.30pm-10pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San De Pisis d’Oro stop). Map E3 www.carltongrandcanal.com. Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5 c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo. A jewel in style both the venue and the atmosphere. San Marco, 1413/d. La Caravella The menus are inspired by the traditions of Venetian, Le Maschere T: 041 5207022. c/o Hotel Saturnia Italian and international cuisine with genuine c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice. www.bauervenezia.com. Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399. ingredients but with an innovative and original San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755. For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the T: 041 5208901. touch. An ideal place for your celebrations or for a www.starhotels.com. backdrop of the historic Basilica di Santa Maria della www.restaurantlacaravella.com simple romantic evening in Venice. Vaporetto line 1 Loved and patronized by Venetian locals, the Le Acquerello Restaurant is the ideal place for a romantic dinner, Salute. Those in search of a more intimate experience Opened in 1963, the La Caravella restaurant (Riva de Biasio stop). Map C3 Maschere restaurant is set against the backdrop

c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski Venice. boasting a decidedly designer-style décor and a soft, can opt to dine in its elegant dining room, furnished of a luminous ‘Campiello’, a typical Venetian Isola di San Clemente, 1. evocative colour scheme. In addition to the à la carte with classic period pieces, reminiscent of the ancient courtyard. Here you can sample authentic T: 0 41 4750111. menu you can also choose from a selection of typical pomp and splendour of the Serenissima. €€€. Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and www.kempinski.com. gourmet Venetian dishes, the perfect way to soak up Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience, The gourmet cuisine of Acquerello restaurant the flavours and atmospheres of the lagoon city. €€€. guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly, makes enhances the flavours of Italian and Venetian Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5 Do Leoni Le Maschere one of the most unique and original tradition with creative and surprising c/o Hotel Londra Palace. restaurants in Venice. Open: lunch 12pm-2pm, combinations of Executive Chef Vincenzo Di Aromi Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni). dinner 7pm-10pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto Tuoro. PASSION TIP Its view is as breathtaking c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. T: 041 5200533. stop). Map F4

as its food: situated next to the XII-century church Giudecca, 810. www.londrapalace.com. of San Clemente, the restaurant, boasting a large T: 041 2723311. The Do Leoni restaurant, one of the temples of Oro terrace, is located next to one of the island’s www.molinostuckyhilton.it. Venetian cuisine, pays homage to the symbols of c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. private landing stages and offers an incomparable Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine, Britain and of Venice. Chef Loris Indri combines Giudecca, 10. view over the lagoon and St. Mark’s Square. offering a choice of pasta, meat and seafood dishes, the traditions of classic Venetian fare with more T: 041 240801. Open for dinner: 6.30 pm-10.30 pm. €€€. Hotel’s created using only the freshest ingredients based creative dishes, to titillate the palates of even the www.belmond.com. complimentary boat from piazza San Marco. Off on traditional recipes. Recognized by well-known most discerning diners. The chef’s culinary art is Experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this Map international gastronomic association “Chaine des further enhanced by its two atmospheric dining enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro Rotisseurs”, Aromi is the ideal spot to celebrate a spaces: an indoor dining room whose decor includes reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your Aman Venice Restaurant special occasion. Open on a seasonal basis, the artistic crystal and original paintings and its summer seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the c/o Hotel Aman Venice. Aromi restaurant offers guests a summer terrace with Veranda on the Riva degli Schiavoni. €€€. Vaporetto Terrazza Danieli golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo). a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal. line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4 its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian T: 041 2707333. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Palanca stop). Map C6 tradition. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner www.aman.com. Il Giardino Segreto 7.30pm-10pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 4.1 (Zitelle stop). The exclusive restaurant at the Hotel Aman Canova c/o Boscolo Venezia. Map F6 Venice offers a delightfully unique menu, thanks c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna. Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500 to several specialties created by starred Milanese San Marco, 1243. (Calle Larga Piave). Terrazza Danieli chef Davide Oldani, who infuses his culinary T: 041 5289840. T: 041 2208110. c/o Hotel Danieli (www.danielihotelvenice.com). offerings with all the vibrancy of his ‘pop cuisine’. www.baglionihotels.com. www.venezia.boscolohotels.com. Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. PASSION TIP Standouts, for those who haven’t Winner of the Fogher d’Oro and Gambero Rosso Venice meeting point for lovers of fine cuisine. T: 041 5226480. yet tasted them, include his timeless ‘cipolla awards, the Canova boasts an intimate, elegant In an elegant and intimate atmosphere, you can www.terrazzadanieli.com. caramellata’ (‘caramelized onions’) and ‘Zafferano atmosphere. Chef Daniele Zennaro offers menus enjoy international specialties and delicacies of the A trip to discover traditional flavours. Executive e riso’ (Saffron and rice’). €€€. Vaporetto line 1 (San and tastings featuring the best of traditional Italian cuisine, created by highly skilled chefs and Chef Dario Parascandolo will treat you to an Silvestro stop). Map E4 Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only the accompanied by a wide selection of wines and exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu freshest, high-quality ingredients, rounded off by a champagnes. You can also taste tantalizing aperitivi. featuring exquisite, locally sourced, seasonal Antinoo’s wine list offering a wide selection of national and In the springtime and summer the blooming garden ingredients. PASSION TIP Don’t miss the c/o Centurion Palace Venezia. international labels. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, offers you a unique view for your lunch or for your breathtaking view over the lagoon. Open: lunch Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281. dinner 7.30pm-10.30pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 (San very romantic dinner. €€€. Vaporetto line 4.2 or 5.2 12pm-3pm, dinner 7pm-10.30pm. €€€. Vaporetto www.sinahotels.com. Marco-Vallaresso stop) or 2 (San Marco-Giardinetti (Orto stop). Map E1 line 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4 Fronting the Grand Canal, Antinoo’s Lounge & stop). Map F5 Do Leoni

36 WHERE VENICE I MARCH 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 37 DINING DINING Michelin-starred restaurants

Oro Quadri Venissa c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani Piazza San Marco, 121 Fondamenta S. Caterina, 3 (Mazzorbo) Giudecca, 10 T: 041 5222105 T: 041 5272281 T: 041 240801 www.alajmo.it www.venissa.it www.belmond.com A real institution of Venetian taste, starting from On the one hand its vegetable gardens and A jewel in the crown of Belmond Hotel Cipriani, its decor. A triumph of stucco, Murano glass vineyards, and, on the other, its cuisine featuring an experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this and precious fabrics housed in one of the most intoxicating meld of locally sourced ingredients. Its enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects photographed ‘palazzi’ in the city. Its menu features bucolic surroundings serve as the ideal backdrop the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath intriguing, creative dishes that are beautifully to its authentic, typically Venetian cuisine lovingly Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, presented... without forgetting its spectacular view prepared by its four chefs who only use fresh, from which the restaurant draws its name, and try over piazza San Marco. Map F4 seasonal ingredients. Off Map

the specialities inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6

Osteria da Fiore San Polo, 2202 T: 041 721308 www.dafiore.net An Osteria only by name because this is actually an elegant, starred restaurant. Its cuisine ranges from the most authentic traditional flavours interpreted in a modern-day key (meaning that offerings tend to be lighter) to more unusual dishes invented by the chef, intended to be as close to nature as possible thanks to a great selection of highly sought-after seasonal ingredients. Ask for a wine recommendation from its excellent wine list which also features several international labels. Map E3 Osteria da Fiore

Quadri

Are you in search of a real Venetian tasting experience? Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste! Il Ridotto By Stefania Vida

Dopolavoro 'reduced' in Italian, refers to the size of this c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa tiny, gracious restaurant. The innovative menu Met Dopolavoro Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco employing traditional elements is revised daily, T: 041 8521300 with the offerings tending toward lighter, but www.jwvenice.com wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes. Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after A particular characteristic? It only has work. The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini 9 tables. Map F4 is behind this new restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private Met island - the Isola delle Rose, right out in the Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 Venetian lagoon. After a day of business T: 041 5240034 meetings or exploring Venice, enjoy delicious www.hotelmetropole.com gourmet recipes with an individual flavour Located inside the Metropole hotel, the Met and skilful light touch - the true mark of a great Restaurant is a pioneer of a new concept targeted chef. Off Map at promoting the Italian region.

Its menu features recipes based on traditional Il Ridotto Italian gastronomy served in two versions: either Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4509 classical or upgraded with a creative twist, served T: 041 5208280 in unusual but never excessive combinations. Its www.ilridotto.com carefully prepared dishes are full of flavour and Located just steps from San Marco, Il Ridotto, presented in a bright, colourful way. Map G4 Oro Venissa

38 WHERE VENICE I MARCH 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 39 DINING DINING

the Giudecca Canal. At La Piscina you can savour restaurant. A farmhouse from the exterior, it traditional Venetian and Mediterranean dishes has been renovated with great charm, exuding paired with wines selected from amongst the best an understated elegance with beautiful Italian labels. Vegetarian meals are also served. country antiques and fresh flowers. €€€. www. Top coffee and pastry shops Kosher €€€. www.lacalcina.com. c/o Hotel La Calcina. locandacipriani.com. Piazza Santa Fosca 29 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto line 1 Dorsoduro, 780 (Zattere). T: 041 5206466. Vaporetto (Torcello island). T: 041 730150. Vaporetto line 12 or 2 (Vallaresso stop). in Venice line 2 or 5.1 (Zattere stop). Map E6 from Fondamente Nove direction Burano, then Whether you’re in search of a cup of coffee, a snack or an aperitivo, Venice take the 9 line). Off Map La Porta d’Acqua offers an incredible variety of bars and pastry shops, where you can stop after Harry’s Dolci - Harry's Dolci, a bar and restaurant, If you are already familiar with Jewish Set just steps from the Rialto Bridge, the restaurant Muro offers a peaceful view of the Canal with outdoor a long day’s sightseeing. Where® offers you a pick of the best places to take is housed in a 15th century building and decorated Comprising two separate areas. Muro San Stae tables facing the Giudecca Canal. The people at the dietary laws, or want to try a new a relaxing break, from the most modern venues to more historic locations with original frescoes dating back to 1700. Its cuisine serves wonderful pizza and traditional Venetian famed Harry's Dolci have established their latest ‘kosher’ gastronomic experience, conjures up the aroma of authentic Neapolitan and Mediterranean dishes, prepared with fresh boasting a retro atmosphere for a real trip back in time By Stefania Vida enclave on this rarely visited island, far from the here are some great addresses that cuisine, thanks to ingredients sourced exclusively ingredients, while Muro Frari embodies Venice’s madding crowds of Piazza San Marco. From the will not disappoint! By Stefania Vida from Campani. €€€. www.laportadacqua.it. San love for fish enhanced with an Eastern twist. Open quayside windows of this chic place, you can watch Polo, 1022/b (Rio Terà San Silvestro). T: 041 2412124. daily 12pm-3pm and 7pm-10.30pm. €€€. Muro San www.lavena.it. Piazza San Marco, 133/134. T: 041 seagoing vessels, from yachts to lagoon barges. Vaporetto 1 (San Silvestro stop). Map E4 Stae: Santa Croce 2048 (Campiello dello Spezier). 5224070. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). cipriani.com. Fondamenta S. Biagio, 773 (Giudecca). T: 041 5241628. San Stae boat stop. Muro Frari: San T: 041 5224844. Vaporetto linea 4.1 (Palanca stop). La Zucca Polo 2604 b/c. T: 041 5245310. Vaporetto line 1 (San Dal Mas While La Zucca isn’t only a vegetarian restaurant, Tomà stop). Map D4 Located just a few minutes from the railway Pasticceria Italo Didovich - Should you find it’s a great place for anyone who likes vegetables. station, this pastry shop offers a triumph of yourself in the vicinity of Campo Santa Marina (just Zucca’s chefs turn common garden-variety Taverna al Remer traditional sweet treats for breakfast (in addition a little off the beaten tourist track), make a beeline ingredients likes carrots and eggplant into works of Located near to the Rialto Bridge, this romantic to croissants, try their ‘zaleti’, ‘pan dei Dogi’ and for this excellent pastry shop, which has stood here culinary art. €€€. Closed on Sundays. www.lazucca. ‘taverna’ is distinguished by its open-brick ‘sbreghettine’). Those with a sweet tooth will be for the past 40 years. In addition to ‘frolle’ and rice it. Santa Croce, 1762. T: 041 5241570. Vaporetto line decor, which lends it an intimate, informal touch. delighted to know that Dal Mas is also a chocolate and almond pastries, it also offers several tantalizing 1 (San Stae stop). Map D3 Although the menu features simple, traditional

shop where you can find single servings of delicacies Castello. Campo Santa Marina. T: 041 dishes, it often surprises diners with unusual mousse, mini Sacher torte, ‘cannoli’ and brightly- 5230017. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Lineadombra pairings. Closed on Wednesdays. €€€. www. coloured macarons. www.cioccolateriadalmas. Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful alremer.it. Cannaregio, 5701. T. 041 5228789. com. Cannaregio, 149/a (Rio Terà Lista de Spagna), a Pasticceria Rosa Salva - This institution has three promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Caffè Florian few metres from the St. Lucia Station. T: 041 715101. separate shops in Venice. The first is in San Marco- spot for a romantic dinner where you can enjoy all Map F3

Calle Fiubera: its historic headquarters, permeated the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. Gran Caffè Quadri - Nestling in St. Mark’s Square, by the aromas of its nearby pastry kitchen. The next www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. Wildner Caffè Florian - One of Venice’s most famous cafés with its ornate stucco mouldings, 18th-century is in San Marco-Mercerie: aperitivi and quick snacks T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere stop) or 1 Opened by the Fullin family in 1960, it is patronized with its glittering neo-Baroque décor and attractive murals, huge mirrors and polished wooden that can be enjoyed in between browsing the (Salute stop). Map E5 by locals and tourists alike. Its tranquil, relaxed furniture, Quadri is every inch the historical café. shops lining le Mercerie, the shopping street that KOSHER RESTAURANT atmosphere is further enhanced by a spectacular 19th century wall panels, Caffè Florian is located Locanda Cipriani People, including habitués like Stendhal, Wagner, connects the Rialto to St. Mark’s Square. The last is GHIMEL GARDEN view over the Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly in the heart of St. Mark’s Square. The oldest café in For those who want to be close to Venice, Proust and Woody Allen, have been drinking at this in Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo. www.rosasalva.it. fish-based and serves classic Venetian specialties Italy, Florian is steeped in history. Opened on 29 The restaurant offers kosher specialties yet feel worlds away, the Locanda Cipriani historic venue since 1638. www.alajmo.it. Piazza San Marco (Calle Fiubera), T: 041 5210544. San Marco including ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. December 1720 by Floriano Francesconi, under and typical fish-based dishes. The menu is a superb, romantic hideaway. Featuring a San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105. Vaporetto line 1 or (Mercerie), T: 041 5227934. Castello (Campo San Closed on Tuesdays. €€€. c/o Pensione Wildner. the name of ‘Alla Venezia Trionfante’, it was simply is accompanied by a great selection of simple yet evocative atmosphere, it is popular 2 (Rialto stop). Giovanni e Paolo), T: 041 5227949. Vaporetto line 1 or Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 re-christened Florian by its regulars, who included strictly kosher wines. Halav. Lemehadrin. among knowledgeable gourmets as a fantastic celebrities such as Casanova, Goldoni, Canaletto 2 (Rialto stop). or 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4 Open daily from 9.30am to 11pm. Serves and Guardi. www.caffeflorian.com. Piazza San Harry’s Bar - Founded in the 1930s, this legendary Marco, 57. T: 041 5205641. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails and for being Rizzardini - Since 1742, the traditional sweet treats Shabbat dinners on Friday evenings and Marco stop). the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost sold at this pastry shop have tempted the palates at lunch on Saturdays strictly subject every famous name to visit Venice. Today, it is still of Venetian locals and visitors alike, thanks to the to reservation. ghimelgarden.com. Caffè Lavena - Since 1750, Caffè Lavena, situated in a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, high quality of its products, its atmosphere and Cannaregio, 2873 (Campo del Ghetto a corner at the foot of the Clock Tower in front of the a perfect opportunity to step back in time and eye-catching window displays. Must-try’s include Nuovo). T: 041 8226131. Basilica, has been one of the most renowned coffee savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating its biscuits and, at Carnival, its utterly delectable shops in Venice. Known by the Venetians of those atmosphere. An ideal venue at any time of day, either ‘fritole’ , small fried doughnuts. San Polo, 1415. T: 041 KOSHER HOUSE days as the ‘Caffè dei Foresti’ (The Foreigners’ cafè), it for lunch or dinner, but also for a truly trademark 5223835. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato or San GIARDINO DEI MELOGRANI was mainly frequented by an international clientele. aperitivo! www.harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, Silvestro stop). Located just a 10-minute walk from the Santa Lucia Railway Station, this is the only kosher residence in Venice. Da Mario alla Fava Gran Canal perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its Nestling in the heart of Venice’s Ghetto, Lying in the heart of Venice, near to the Church Here you can taste the typical specialties of Venetian slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. it is equipped with all the necessary of Santa Maria alla Fava, from which it takes its tradition, featuring the purest expression of taste and www.harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle accoutrements for the strict observance name, this small restaurant offers a calm, relaxing harmony. The restaurant’s main focus is on seafood Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop) or 2 of Kasheruth and Halacha. (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 atmosphere far removed from the crowds of and vegetables. Don’t miss a dinner on its evocative www.pardesrimonim.net. tourists that flock to the area each year. Opened terrace: the restaurant faces directly onto the Grand Il Nuovo Galeon Cannaregio, 2873. T: 041 8226131. in 1960, Mario Bonavita wanted to rediscover the Canal offering diners an excellent opportunity Located on via Garibaldi, near the Giardini della true Venetian style of cooking which he does with to combine the pleasures of the palate with a Biennale and just behind the Arsenal, this restaurant panache. €€€. www.ristorantemarioallafava.it. Calle stunning view over Venice’s lagoon. Open: lunch CAFFETTERIA DEL MUSEO is mainly frequented by Venetians. A typical, family- Galiazzo, 5265 - Calle dei Stagneri, 5242. T: 041 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-11.30pm €€€. www. EBRAICO DI VENEZIA run restaurant with an outdoor terrace (summer), its 5285147. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 hotelmonaco.it. c/o Hotel Monaco&Gran Canal. San Indulge in flavoursome break at the attractive interior is characterized by typical nautical Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San cafè of Venice’s famous Jewish Museum. Giorgione décor, including the hull of a ‘bragozzo’, a typical Marco stop). Map F5 Situated in the Campo del Ghetto A typical Venetian restaurant offering its clientele fishing boat built by Crea, the famous Venetian an unusual combination of Venetian specialties Harry’s Bar rowing champion. €€€. www.ilnuovogaleon.com. Nuovo, the venue is set between two and live music for a relaxing break, features a mix Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned Castello, 1308, T: 041 5204656. Vaporetto 5.1 or 5.2 of Venice’s oldest synagogues. Halav. of great food and entertainment. €€€. Castello, for its Bellini cocktails (originally invented here) and (Giardini stop). Map H5 Cannaregio, 2902 (Campo del Ghetto LE MASCHERE 1533 (Via Garibaldi). www.ristorantegiorgione.it. for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of Nuovo). T: 340 1046858. La Piscina A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly, makes this restaurant one T: 041 5228727. Vaporetto line 1, 4.1, 4.2 (Arsenale almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, It is Take a seat at its welcoming indoor dining room, or of the most original venues in Venice. See page 37 stop). Map H5 still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a on the magnificent panoramic terrace overlooking

40 WHERE VENICE I MARCH 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 41

IN SEARCH OF AN AUTHENTIC RESTAURANT BY STEFANO TRAINE

TRULY VENETIAN TAVERNA AL REMER ► Looking for a really Burano typical restaurant Enjoy an authentic dining experience Al Gatto Nero amidst the hundreds at this typically Venetian eatery, boasting Trattoria da Romano of venues you’ll come a spectacular view over the Grand Canal. across while strolling Santa Croce Cannaregio through Venice? Isola di San Michele Here are a few tips Taverna al Remer www.alremer.it. Cannaregio, 5701 to help you find the (Campiello Remer). T: 041 5228789. right place wherever you happen to be, in the ‘calli’, at the Lido or while enjoying TRATTORIA San Polo Castello an excursion to the DA ROMANO Al Giardinetto da Severino islands… BURANO VENEZIA San Marco Dorsoduro Trattoria Do Forni Antico Pignolo TRATTORIA DA ROMANO (BURANO) Renowns for its simple yet delectable risottos ans its typical seafood dishes, this trattoria Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore has been run by the Barbaro family for generations. Standouts includes mixed grill Giudecca cooked over wood.

www.daromano.it Burano - Via Galuppi, 221. T: 041 730030.

TRATTORIA DO FORNI Thanks to the quality of his dishes and a genuine sense of Venetian hospitality, its owner, Eligio Paties has turned his restaurant into a sought-after culinary destination.

www.doforni.it San Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148.

AL GIARDINETTO DA SEVERINO AL GATTO NERO (BURANO) Its menu offers the best of Freshly caught fish and pasta traditional Venetian cuisine: are served at this family-run ANTICO PIGNOLO RISTORANTE baccalà, Venetian-style liver, trattoria in the heart of Burano. Boasting an elegant ambience and ‘granceola’, polenta with shrimp, The ‘Gatto Nero’ has been the Al Giardinetto impeccable service, this ‘iconic Venetian da Severino a mixed fish fry with artichokes kingdom of Ruggero Bovo since tavern’ is owned and run by Eligio Paties. and seafood risotto. 1965. Must-try dishes include the Highlights include tantalizing meat and fish chef’s famous ‘risotto di Go’ or www.xxxxxx.org specialties and a well-stocked wine cellar. his ‘spaghetti alla granceola’. Viale xxxxx, 6 www.algiardinetto.it www.gattonero.com T: 02 xxxxx www.anticopignolo.com. San Marco, 451 Castello, 4928 (Salizada Zorzi). T: 041 5285332. Burano - Via Giudecca, 88. T: 041 730120. More info: www.wheremilan.com (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5228123.

More info: www.where-venice.com

42 WHERE VENICE I MARCH 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 43 MUSEUMS & FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS boat cruises visit www.canalgrande.it, or and is surrounded by several magnificent stately ATTRACTIONS & ask your concierge. buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes MONUMENTS it one of the most widely-photographed places Chiesa della Madonna dell’Orto in the world. The best thing to do here is to look Basilica del Redentore This is one of the largest churches in Venice, around and exult, but don’t forget that the square Based on a project by the famous architect and, according to popular belief, is named after has a number of specific landmark sites, whose Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 a statue of the Virgin Mary which supposedly interiors can also be visited: the Basilica of San on the island of Giudecca. It contains works had miraculous powers. It contains a significant Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing), by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important number of artworks, mostly by Tintoretto and Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the Bellini, but also by Titian and Palma the Younger. Tower (see listing) and some 18th century cafés, deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one The complex also houses the smaller church the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the best- third of the population. To commemorate the end of San Marziale, dating back to before the year known... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop). of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the 1000. This church can only be visited by booking. Map F4 church on the third Sunday of July. Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 12pm-5pm. www. www.chorusvenezia.org. Campo Redentore madonnadellorto.org. Cannaregio, 3512. T: 041 Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs) (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 719933. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, A (Orto The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6 stop). Map E2 crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one Basilica di San Marco Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from This is the most important Catholic church in the A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and which its name derives are not those of lovers, but city, and one of the most important monuments in adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they Italy. The original church dates back to before the to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, plague-stricken population of Venice during the a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am- embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 15th century. The interiors are filled with 7pm. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, numerous treasures, including an impressive 31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian number of works by Tintoretto as well those by lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4 Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics to change www.scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge) and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four You might have to queue for a time to get inside, Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4 bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it Ghetto di Venezia admission is free, you will have to pay to see (shutterbugs permitting), but even more spectacular Although documentation chronicles the presence several specific sights. In order not to miss your when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a of a Jewish community in Venice from before visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening gondola. Originally built during medieval times as the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, hours, as they are often subject to change. Open a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point due to political unrest in Europe and a significant Mon-Sat 9.30am-4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays) to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, increase in non-Christian immigrants that, for the 2pm-4pm. www.basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree

EGIUDICI_WHEREITALIA 328. T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to stating that the Jewish population should move Marco stop). Map F4 everyone; between upward and downward slopes, to a specific part of the city, where they could it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125 Campanile di San Marco (Bell Tower) be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to PHOTO © This 98.6 metre bell tower is affectionately known move to this, then, remote northwestern corner to the Venetians as ‘el paron de casa’ (the master of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14th- VENICE BIENNALE of the house) because it dominates the city, century foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect observing everything that lies below it. Resting for "foundry," a word that would soon be used lightly on the exquisite Loggetta del Sansovino, throughout Europe and the world to depict an For more than a century, the Venice A gallery with a view it has a particularly recognizable shape and a area where isolated minority groups lived. The Biennale has been one of the most rich history. The original medieval bell tower was Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, prestigious cultural institutions in the modified several times, and rebuilt entirely when it vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into world. Renowned for its avant-garde A panoramic view over the city, a long history devoted to art and a present infused with a passion for unexpectedly collapsed in 1902. It is worth going town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, up to the tower, to enjoy a breathtaking view and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today approach to research and the promotion photography: the Casa dei Tre Oci is one of Venice’s best-kept secrets. By Elena Peverata over the city. Although admission is not free, it is it is still the center of Venice's ever-diminishing of new artistic trends, it organizes often included in joint tickets. Opening times are community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, important international exhibitions subject to change. T: 041 5225205. Vaporetto lines 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2 related to art and architecture (it is held here is a place in Venice, off the beaten the 1980s, a place of meeting and discussion, a Ferdinando Scianna and René Burri. 1,2 (San Marco stop). Map F4 bi-annually in odd-numbered years) at track, that allows you to appreciate studio, and a space for artists and intellectuals Now and until 2 April, the complex is hosting Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi Canal Grande (Grand Canal) (Casinò di Venezia) its Giardini and Arsenale sites, and is the romantic side of the city from a visiting Venice from all over the world. "Arctic. The Final Frontier": 120 black and T Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building considered the world’s number one unique perspective. Located on the Island of In 2012, following in-depth restoration, white images taken by three masters of street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the houses the oldest casino in the world. An age- platform for its International Exhibition Giudecca, the Casa dei Tre Oci is a magnificent the building became a public art gallery, photo journalism – Italy’s Paolo Solari Bozzi, main waterway of Venice and much more. old destination, for aristocratic travelers from of Cinematographic Art (annual), its example of early 20th century Neo-Gothic dedicated to the study and narration of themes Iceland’s Ragnar Axelsson and Denmark’s Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series both East and West, Venice was the first city in Music and Theatre Festival and its more Venetian architecture, an exhibition and languages related to contemporary art, in Carsten Egevang - who, based on their different of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public the world to open a gaming house way back in recent Dance Festival. In addition to its buildings, it offers a journey back into history, 1683. Today its old-world ambience continues space dedicated to photography and an particular, photography and the visual arts. It perspectives, explore the immense Arctic traditional appointments, it has added evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient to play host to several of the world’s most new, permanent activities over time. extraordinary vantage point overlooking also houses the photography collection owned region and the life of the Inuit living there, Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has classical games. The casino is open to everyone Costs, venues and opening hours vary the basin of San Marco. Situated in an area by the Fondazione di Venezia and a thematic highlighting the threat of global warming and witnessed lavish parties and workshop events, aged 18 and over and proper attire is required. according to the activity underway. of unusual artistic and historic interest, the library. Finally, two rooms are dedicated to the powerful beauty of nature. religious processions, capital executions, www.casinovenezia.it. Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting Colombina). Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola Voucher Venezia Unica holders are building is strategically positioned in front of the De Maria family. Original furnishings and Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise stop). Map E3 eligible for discounts. Main sites: Ca’ the Punta della Dogana, St. Mark’s Square and a selection of paintings and drawings offer >> ARCTIC. THE FINAL FRONTIER on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this Giustinian, San Marco 1364/a; Arsenale, Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) the Ducal Palace, and is only steps from the visitors a glimpse into the family’s life during 15 January – 2 April experience, but because it offers several of the Calle della Tana, 2169/S; Giardini della Known throughout the world, this square is the Church of Il Redentore. artistic gatherings. Open daily 10am-6pm (closed on Tuesday). best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. Biennale, Castello (between Riva degli is is almost impossible to list all of them, but Designed in 1913 by the artist Mario De Maria Over the past few years, the space has hosted Full price ticket €12. www.treoci.org. It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit Schiavoni and Sant’Elena). for more information you can visit the www. as a house and studio, the Casa dei Tre Oci (the important solo and collective exhibitions. In Fondamenta delle Zitelle, 43. Isola della integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 www.labiennale.org canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions and house with three eyes), was, until the end of 2016, it featured the works of Helmut Newton, Giudecca, Venezia. T: 041 2412332. Map F6 metres in length, it faces directly onto the water

44 WHERE VENICE I MARCH 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 45 MUSEUMS & MUSEUMS & SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS ATTRACTIONS | SIGHTSEEING

(access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X). Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari 1.30pm/2pm-6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo. floor): the ‘Portego dei dipinti’ featuring canvases Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 Known by the Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this com. c/o Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. San Marco, by Canaletto, a room dedicated to Longhi and landmark features 17 monumental altars and is the 4299 (Campo Manin, Rio San Luca). T: 041 3096605. the frescoes painted by Giandomenico Tiepolo San Giorgio Maggiore largest church in the city. This medieval church Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). detached from the walls of Villa Zianigo (second The “Scuole Grandi” Boasting a monastery and an adjoining museum in Gothic-Venetian style, houses, in addition to Map E4 floor); the rooms of the Farmacia Ai do San Marchi (see Museum listings), the church of San Giorgio two paintings by Titian, the tombs and funerary and the exquisite Pinacoteca Egidio Martini (third Maggiore sits on the little island of San Giorgio Scuola Grande dei Carmini monuments of numerous famous people, including floor). Alternately, the Browning Mezzanine houses Maggiore across from St. Mark's square. One of the Housed in a 16th century palazzo, it is the seat of an Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. chorusvenezia.org. the works of the Mestrovich Collection, including masterpieces of Andrea Palladio, the church, and the ancient brotherhood and all its original furnishing Campo dei Frari. T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 1, 2, works by artists like Tintoretto and Bonifacio de' entire complex, which holds a number of marvelous and a number of priceless oil paintings have been N (San Tomà stop). Map D4 Pitati. Closed on Tues, 25 December and 1 January. surprises including a maze, is worth visiting. This preserved intact. The drama builds when entering Full price ticket €10. www.carezzonico.visitmuve. small island, that is a part of the panorama that can Santi Giovanni e Paolo the Sala del Capitolo, whose ceiling features nine it. Dorsoduro 3136 (Fondamenta Rezzonico). T: be enjoyed from St. Mark's square, is separated from One of the city’s most important examples exceptional canvases painted by the brotherhood’s 041 2410100. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). the Giudecca by the lagoon island of La Grazia. Isola of medieval architecture, Santi Giovanni e Paolo most famous member, Giambattista Tiepolo. Open Map D5 di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 5227827. Vaporetto is considered the Pantheon of Venice because daily 11am-5pm. www.scuolagrandecarmini.it. line 2 (San Giorgio stop). Map G5 all the Venetian doges, starting from Dorsoduro, 2616 (Campo dei Carmini, Campo Santa Casa Museo Andrich-Modern Art Margherita). T: 041 5289420. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Gallery and Historic Garden Santa Maria della Salute (Church the 13th century, are buried here, together with numerous other notable personages. Rezzonico stop). Map C5 The house of the two artists, Clementina and Lucio of the Virgin Mary of Good Health) www.basilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it. Andrich, testifies to the artistic vibrancy of Venice Generally referred to as “La Salute,” this crown jewel Teatro La Fenice Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo (Please note: between the 1950s and the 1980s. Silks, tapestries, of 17th-century baroque architecture proudly stands Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its this site might be marked in Venetian dialect glass, sculptures, paintings, engravings, mosaics at a commercially and aesthetically important point, former splendour (the last time was between 1996 as ‘san ZaniPolo’ on the city’s maps). and furniture are displayed on a rotational basis almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal T: 041 5235913. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Fondamente and can be admired during a guided tour. Set in an where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon. stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and Nove stop, Ospedale Civile stop). Map F3 11,000 square meter orchard-garden, inhabited by Designed by Longhena, whose work was influenced ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th herons and flamingoes from March to September, by Palladio, it was constructed to honor the Virgin Scala Contarini del Bovolo century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas Casa Andrich overlooks the beautiful lagoon Mary for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. Palazzo Contarini is an exquisite, late Gothic by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only landscape of Torcello. Open daily. Guided tours in On 21 November each year, a popular religious building. However, what makes it such a popular strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it Italian, English and French are conducted at 10am- celebration, marking the official end of the Black attraction today, was the addition, by its architects, is also a stunning feat of architecture. teatrolafenice. 11am; 2.30pm-3.30pm; 4.30pm-5.30pm. Visits must Scuola di San Rocco Death, is held here. The church is also famous for in 1499, of an amazing, external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo be booked online (www.veneziaunica.it). Ticket its organ concerts. Open daily 9am-12noon/3pm- stairwell enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso pricing varies based on the type of visit chosen. 5.30pm. www.basilicasalutevenezia.it. Fondamenta The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined stop). Map E4 www.museoandrich.it. Torcello island, 4/L. T: 347 Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the The islands 2391861. Vaporetto line 12. Off Map Among Venice’s countless art treasures, paintings by the best artists of the era. After stop). Map E5 top, is well worth a visit. Open Tues-Sun: 10am- Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, Fondazione Bevilacqua La Masa buildings known as ‘Scuole’ or ‘Scuole the fall of the Republic of Venice in 1797, the an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a The Foundation, which has 4 spaces in Venice, Grandi’ might be mentioned as Schools were suppressed by a Napoleonic half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of serves as a launch pad for projects devoted to unmissable attractions. It goes without edict (1807) and within the space of a short Murano, Torcello and Burano, three charming, photography, design, graphics and applied arts. saying that these are not schools in the time their assets ended up at antique markets small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano In addition to awarding prizes and scholarships, is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown it also offers under 35 artists a chance annually, accepted sense of the word, but one and collections throughout the world. glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers to set up ateliers, free-of-charge, at its Palazzo of the innumerable distinctive features Several of the best preserved Schools at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a Carminati (San Stae) and SS. Cosma e Damiano of this unique city. During the ancient were reconstituted and transformed into thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semi- (Giudecca) spaces. Palazzetto Tito, the Republic of Venice, from the 13th century museums that can now be visited by the rural island with only 17 permanent residents and headquarters of the Foundation’s archives and onwards, the word ‘Scuola’ was, in fact, public. two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past offices, promotes the catalogues of collective and glories, and Burano, one of the most photographed personal exhibitions, while the space dedicated used to describe a brotherhood, or rather These include the Great Schools sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses to exhibitions is located in St. Mark’s Square, an association of lay members who met of San Giovanni Evangelista (www. reflected in its canals. Burano is also famous for its under the arcades of Procuratie Nuove. www. to provide assistance to poor people, scuolasangiovanni.it), the Scuola di San artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, bevilacqualamasa.it. Palazzetto Tito, Dorsoduro, widows, orphans, old and sick people. Rocco (www.scuolagrandesanrocco. which also resembles lace. Find out more and buy 2826. T: 041 5207797. La Galleria di Piazza San tickets for your trip to these magical destinations. Marco, San Marco, 71/c (Procuratie Nuove). T: 041 The ‘Scuole’ were divided into it) and the Scuola dei Carmini (www. Visitors love these islands, and there may be a risk of 5237819. Palazzo Carminati, Santa Croce 1882/a. Devotional Schools (or Scuole Grandi) scuolagrandecarmini.it). Others, including not finding a seat on the boat. See Map page 62. Complesso di SS. Cosma e Damiano, Giudecca which gathered for religious purposes the Scuole Grandi di San Teodoro (www. 620.Map F5 MUSEUMS & in the name of a patron saint, Schools scuolagrandesanteodoro.it), the Scuola di Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore of Arts and Crafts and Schools of San Marco (the seat of the city’s hospital), EXHIBITION SITES Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin Foreign Communities (Scuole Piccole or www.scuolagrandesanmarco.it), and the Ca’ Pesaro-International Gallery of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951 Scuolette). Until the fall of the Republic, Scuola di Santa Maria Giustizia or San by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San of Modern Art they represented a real kind of welfare Fantin, currently home to Venice’s Faculty Hosts important 19th and 20th century Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international system, initially destined for members of Science, Literature and Arts (www. collections of paintings and sculptures, including centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is masterpieces by Klimt and Chagall as well as housed in the monumental complex of the former but later extended to the entire ateneoveneto.org), were converted into The phenomenon of 'acqua alta' noteworthy oeuvres by the likes of Kandinsky, Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, population. public exhibition spaces and institutions. a place of inestimable architectural and artistic Acqua alta (High Water) is a Venetian phenomenon that involves the entire city when either Klee, Matisse and Moore. Other highlights include The ‘Scuole Grandi’ had countless means at The Scuola Dalmata di San Giorgio degli prestige, thanks to works by several of Italy’s the planetary tides – the Scirocco wind and wave motion in the Adriatic, or a combination a rich selection of works by Italian artists and an their disposal, a part of which they invested Schiavoni and the Scuola di San Nicolò dei important selection of graphics. Closed on Mon, 25 greatest 16th and 17th century masters. Enlarged of all these elements – cause an increased flow of water into Venice’s lagoon. When this to embellish their own headquarters with Greci (currently Venice’s Museum of Icons), December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www. in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, who also happens, the city is flooded. While causing tourists serious inconvenience, the ‘acqua alta’ is capesaro.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 2076. Vaporetto designed its refectory, the church of San Giorgio paintings by well-known artists including are ‘small’ schools whose artistic treasures not at all like the experience described in the horror stories that do the rounds each winter. line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3 Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition Tintoretto, Jacopo Palma il Giovane or are well worth a visit. For a city built on water, it’s a way of life and even a one-of-a-kind experience. If you happen to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts Ca’ Rezzonico-Museum of Eighteenth Giambattista Tiepolo. As time passed, Lastly, an interesting fact: the facade of the to be in Venice on an ‘acqua alta’ day (on average, it occurs once every three years) invest an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo Century Venetian Art Tintoretto, as well as several 16th and 17th century the most important Schools built palaces Scuola Grande di Santa Maria della Carità, in a pair of wellies, arm yourself with a camera and explore the city to your heart’s content. The large staircase of this magnificent palazzo works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and for their residents designed by famous suppressed in 1806, is now the entrance to Information and updates on www.comune.venezia.it/maree. leads to several elegant rooms housing paintings, French on Saturdays and Sundays. For information architects, and adorned them with the magnificent Accademia Galleries. sculptures and 18th century furnishings (first and booking T: 041 2201215. Full price ticket €10.

46 WHERE VENICE I MARCH 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 47 MUSEUMS & MUSEUMS & SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS ATTRACTIONS | SIGHTSEEING

Museo Archeologico Nazionale Joint ticket for the Glass Museum + Lace Museum Housed with the Correr Museum and the Marciana €12. www.museovetro.visitmuve.it. Fondamenta Library in the rooms of the Procuratie Nuove Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto St. Mark’s, the soul of Venice in St. Mark’s Square, the museum boasts an line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano stop). Off Map extraordinary collection of Greek and Roman Museo di San Marco sculptures as well as a noteworthy selection The itinerary that you’ll follow inside the museum, of ancient coins, gems and cameos, bronze will take you from the historic area above the artifacts and pottery. Other highlights include atrium-narthex of the Basilica and the former Egyptian and Assyrian-Babylonian antiques and Banqueting Hall of the Doges, through the three priceless finds of late antiquity. Open daily. www. extensive themes that are a part of the heritage of polomuseale.venezia.beniculturali.it. Entrance St. Mark’s Basilica: Mosaics, Textiles, the Quadriga and ticket office: Correr Museum, San Marco 52 and the Antico. Particularly noteworthy, amongst (piazzetta San Marco). T: 041 2967663. Vaporetto its relics and artworks, are the famous gilded line 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 bronze horses of St. Marks and the Basilica’s (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). ancient fragments of mosaics, preserved in Map F5 special containers known as ‘cassine’. The tour of Museo Correr the museum takes visitors through various areas The museum is located in the old Royal Palace in of the Basilica, we therefore suggest wearing St. Mark’s Square and includes the Napoleonic attire that is respectful of the religious nature of Wing and the Procuratie Nuove. Built to house the Basilica. Open daily 9.45am-4.45pm. Closed Teodoro Correr’s collection, it features several on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price exhibition spaces dedicated to the art and history ticket €5. www.museosanmarco.it. San Marco of Venice. These include the neo-classical rooms 328 (Procuratoria di San Marco). T: 041 2708311. housing sculptures by Antonio Canova, historic Vaporetto linee 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria collections describing the changing cityscape stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 o 4.1 (San Zaccaria PALAZZO CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO of Venice and, finally, the pinacoteca, boasting stop). Map F4 important masterpieces of Venetian art from its This late Gothic building, formerly home to the Contarini family, eight of whose members The Basilica of San Marco, with its bell tower PLEASE NOTE were Doges of the Republic of Venice, is renowned for its famous cylindrical tower and origins to the 16th century. Open daily. www. spiral staircase, named ‘del Bovolo’, the Venetian word for snail: one of the city’s foremost and square overlooking the water, is one of The Basilica of San Marco is a Catholic correr.visitmuve.it. San Marco 52 (piazza San architectural gems. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo.com Italy’s and the world’s most recognizable church that welcomes worshippers and Marco). T: 041 2405211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 (and photographed) landmarks. In addition tourists alike. It is open daily for prayer and - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4 Museo delle Icone Ghetto), and the Old Cemetery (16th-18th century) to being the city’s most important to allow visitors to admire its extraordinary The museum is owned by the Hellenic Institute of in San Nicolò del Lido. Finally, to commemorate Museo d'Arte Orientale-Ca’ Pesaro church, the Basilica is a monument to the artistic heritage. However, at certain times Byzantine and Post-Byzantine Studies of Venice the tragedy of the Second World War, there is a The museum, located on the top floor of the history of Venice, a grand treasure chest or on certain days, it is entirely given over and is located on the first floor of the Confraternita bronze relief Holocaust Memorial in the Campo Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Moderna, is dei Greci (Scoletta di San Nicolò, designed by del Ghetto Nuovo. Jewish Museum: open 10am- of Venetian art and lavish spoils garnered to religious ceremonies and visits are housed in an ancient building on the Grand Canal Baldassare Longhena in the 17th century). It 7pm (from 1 June to 30 September); 10am-5.30pm from the eastern Mediterranean. Its dazzling suspended. For more information visit designed by Baldassare Longhena for the Pesaro houses approximately 80 Byzantine and post- (from 1 October to 31 May). Guided tours of the family. Here, you will find one of the most important polychrome façade with its marbles and www.basilicasanmarco.it to check that Byzantine icons dating from the 14th through 18th Museum + synagogues: hourly from 10.30am to collections in the world of Japanese art from the mosaics, spires and domes, and Venice’s it is open for visits. On entering, visitors centuries, as well as illuminated codes, sacred 4.30pm (1 October-31 May) or until 5.30pm (1 Edo period: more than 30,000 pieces including garments embroidered in gold and small artisanal June-30 September). Museum, synagogues and famous winged lion, the symbol of the city are asked to respect the rules: appropriate swords and daggers, Japanese armour, delicate artifacts of considerable historic and artistic value. cemetery closed on Saturdays and on Jewish for centuries, is revealed in all of its glory. clothing must be worn, as this is a place of lacquer ware palanquin and priceless porcelain. Open daily from 9am-5pm. www.istitutoellenico. holidays, 25 December, 1 January, 1 May. Full The interior, featuring an abundance of worship. Taking photographs is forbidden Other highlights include extensive sections org/museo. Castello 3412 (Campo dei Greci). T: price ticket €4; Jewish Museum + guided tour dedicated to Chinese and Indonesian art. Closed exquisitely gilded Byzantine mosaics, is and visitors are asked to lower their voices 041 5226581. Vaporetto lines 1, 2, 4.1, 5.1, 14, 15, 19, of the synagogues : full price ticket €10. www. on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price definitely worth a visit. A visit to its Museum at all times. Please note that you will 20 (San Zaccaria stop).Map G4 museoebraico.it. Cannaregio 2902\b. T: 041 71535. ticket (integrated with the International Gallery Vaporetto lines 1-2 (San Marcuola-Ghetto stop), and treasury, located on the upper floor, is a probably have to wait for about 45 minutes of Modern Art) €10. www.arteorientale.org. Santa Museo di Storia Naturale lines 41-42-51-52 (Ponte delle Guglie-Ghetto stop). not-to-be-missed highlight. in order to gain access to the Basilica. Croce, 2076.T: 041 5241173. Vaporetto line 2 (San Housed in the Palazzo del Fondaco dei Turchi Map D2 Stae stop). Map E3 on the Grand Canal, its original, contemporary layout is divided into three sections each of which Museo Querini Stampalia Museo del Merletto (Lace Museum) is, in actual fact, a museum within a museum. Its The Querini Stampalia house-museum is an gallerieaccademia.it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo Located in Burano, the museum is housed in a www.cini.it. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 collection includes more than two million pieces: opulent patrician dwelling located on the ‘piano della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 small building, formerly home to Venice’s famous 2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio zoological and paleontological collections, nobile’ of a 16th century palazzo, and features (Accademia stop). Map D5 Lace School. Boasting more than two-hundred stop). Map G6 ancient herbariums, plant and fish fossils, a several unusual architectural elements designed rare, priceless pieces, the exhibition chronicles Galleria Giorgio Franchetti collection of minerals, a wunderkammer (cabinet by Carlo Scarpa, Valeriano Pastor and Mario Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia the evolution of the art of lace-making in Venice alla Ca' d'Oro of curiosities) housing more than 2,000 examples Botta. Works displayed include paintings by VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a from the 16th to 20th centuries. Closed on Mon, 25 The Ca' d'Oro, an ancient 15th century Patrician of different animal parts and a Venetian fish tank. Giovanni Bellini, Jacopo Palma the Elder and the Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. Joint dwelling, hosts the art collections that were Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Younger, Bernardo Strozzi, Marco and Sebastiano were instituted as an educational adjunct to ticket for the Glass Museum and the Lace Museum donated to the State by Baron Giorgio Franchetti. Full price ticket €8. www.msn.visitmuve.it. Santa Ricci, Giambattista Tiepolo, Pietro Longhi and the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most €12. www.museomerletto.visitmuve.it. Piazza These include period furnishing, tapestries, Croce, 1730 (Fondaco dei Turchi). T: 041 2750206. Gabriel Bella. In addition to the museum, the important collection of Venetian and Veneto Galuppi 187, Burano. T: 041 730034. Vaporetto line paintings, sculptures and bronzes. Its current Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map D3 complex also has a library and a space dedicated artworks dated between the 14th and 18th 4.1, 4.2, 5.2 (Fondamenta Nove stop), and then line collection features a mixture of Renaissance to contemporary art exhibitions. Closed on centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by 12 (Burano stop). Off Map Museo Ebraico di Venezia works from the Lombard, Venetian, Reggio Emilia Mondays. Museum and Display Areas full ticket Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, JEWISH MUSEUM This a ‘dispersed museum’; and Flemish schools, as well as masterpieces Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum) price €10; Scarpa Area full ticket price €8. www. Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by a highly unusual urban architectural museum like Andrea Mantegna’s renowned St. Sebastian. Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on querinistampalia.it. Castello, 5252 (Santa Maria several important landscape artists including complex that includes the museum itself, the An interesting collection of ceramic relics from the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at Formosa). T: 041 2711411. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental Ghetto, synagogues and an ancient cemetery. complex hosting these works occupies the the Venetian lagoon are housed at Ca' Duodo, the museum are arranged in chronological order: (Rialto stop), lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, 7, 20 (San This cast of the statue of Paris (1807) by Antonio It contains a small but precious collection of the building lying adjacent to Ca’ d’Oro. Open in addition to the archaeological section featuring Zaccaria stop). Map F4 ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità, the artifacts related to the long history of the Jews Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D., Canova is part of an itinerary dedicated to the Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici in Venice. Thanks to guided tours (in Italian and Museo Storico Navale della Marina Full ticket price: €6. Ticket pricing may vary you can also find an extensive range of historical renowned sculptor whose works are displayed Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea English), you can visit three of the area’s five Militare during temporary exhibitions. www.cadoro.org. objet d’art made from Murano glass, including in the five new rooms of the Procuratie Nuove Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun historic synagogues, located between the Ghetto The Historic Naval Museum, the most important Cannaregio, 3932 (Strada Nuova). T: 041 5200345. important pieces produced between the 15th and of the CORRER MUSEUM. 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. Ticket pricing Vecchio (Old Ghetto) and the Ghetto Nuovo (New of its kind in Italy, is owned by the Italian Navy may vary during temporary exhibitions. www. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E3 20th centuries. Open daily. Full price ticket €10.

48 WHERE VENICE I MARCH 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 49 MUSEUMS & MUSEUMS & SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS ATTRACTIONS | SIGHTSEEING

and the lagoon. Open daily. www.palazzoducale. originating from the warehouses of Venice’s sbn.it. Entrance and Ticket Office: Museo Correr, Torre dell’Orologio (Clock Tower) visitmuve.it. San Marco, 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 civic museums. PASSION TIP Don’t miss San Marco 52 (piazzetta San Marco). T: 041 The Clock or Mori Tower dates back to the 15th 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San the itineraries dedicated to Perfume and the 2407211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop, San century and is one of Venice’s most famous Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria “Perfume Composition Courses” (2 hours, 80/100 Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1, 4.1 (San architectural attractions. Like a triumphal arch, it stop). Map F4 euro per participant, including Kit and perfume). Zaccaria stop). Map F5 dominates the entrance from St. Mark’s Square Reservation is necessary: mocenigo.visitmuve. to the city’s shop-filled Mercerie (from the word Palazzo Fortuny Scuola Grande di San Giovanni it/workshop. Closed on Mon. Full price ticket €8. ‘Merchandise’). If you stand close up, you can Mariano Fortuny (Granada 1871 - Venice 1949) Evangelista www.mocenigo.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 1992. observe the complex mechanisms of this large transformed Palazzo Pesaro degli Orfei into his Founded in 1261, the School is housed in a T: 041 721798. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). astrological clock, a masterpiece of technology and own personal atelier for photography, set-design, complex featuring several different architectural Map E3 engineering. After climbing the spiral staircase, textile creations and paintings. The museum’s styles, including masterpieces of Renaissance art you emerge onto its terraces from which you can collections boasts an extensive collection of pieces Peggy Guggenheim Collection like its superb double staircase (1498) right up enjoy a magnificent view over St. Mark’s Square. and materials commissioned for important projects: Palazzo Venier dei Leoni to the final major architectural changes made in Admission subject to reservation, with an expert paintings, lighting systems, photography and The museum, boasting one of the most important the 18th century to enhance the Sala Capitolare. tour guide. (T: 848 082000 Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/2pm- ornate garments. The building is now used to host collections of 20th century art in Europe, hosts It contains numerous artistic masterpieces, 6pm; Sat 9am-2pm; www.torreorologio.visitmuve.it). art exhibitions. The museum is open only during the personal collection of American heiress including works by Tintoretto, Palma the Younger Full price ticket €12. www.torreorologio. temporary exhibitions. Open 10am-6pm. Closed on Peggy Guggenheim. Her palatial canal side and Tiepolo. Today, the School is a prestigious visitmuve.it. Piazza San Marco. Tuesdays. Please note that prices vary depending on home showcases her collection of Cubist, space used to host congresses, art exhibitions Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso the exhibition being shown. www.fortuny.visitmuve. Furturist, Surrealist and Abstract Expressionist and concerts. Tours are suspended during stop or San Zaccaria stop), it. San Marco 3958 (Campo San Benedeto). T: 041 art, with works by almost 200 artists, including congresses. Visit the website to check 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 or 5200995. Vaporetto line 1 (Sant’Angelo stop), 2 (San Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and the days on which the museum is open to 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Samuele stop). Map E4 Dalí. It also hosts the works of other important the public. Open daily, 9.30am-5pm. Full Map F4 collections and prestigious temporary exhibitions. price ticket €5; Scuola Grande + church Palazzo Grassi Open Wed-Mon 10am-6pm; Closed on Tuesdays. €8. www.scuolasangiovanni.it. San Polo, Museo Punta della Dogana Full price ticket €15. www.guggenheim-venice.it. 2454 (Campiello della Scuola). T: 041 718234. Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently restored Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, Dorsoduro 701 (Canal Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th Grande). T: 041 2405.440/419. Vaporetto line 2 Map D4 century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour (Accademia stop), line 1 (Accademia stop or of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art Salute stop). Map E5 Scuola Grande di San Rocco GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA museums funded by the François Pinault Foundation. The headquarters They host important collective or monographic Sale Monumentali della Biblioteca of the San Rocco Brotherhood, this stunning This Venetian museum hub hosts the most important collection of Veneto artworks exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Marciana building, to which hardly any modifications have dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Don’t miss the outstanding works by Collection, one of the world’s largest collections The old St. Mark’s Library, or Sansoviniana been made, hosts more than 60 masterpieces Bellini, Giorgione, Titian, Tintoretto, Tiepolo and Canaletto. www.gallerieaccademia.it of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an Library, is a museum space that is used to host by artists of the likes of Giorgione, Tiepolo and adjunct to the exhibition spaces, offers an action- exhibitions and events. Designed mainly by Titian, still presented in their original layout. Its packed calendar of conferences, concerts and Jacopo Sansovino, standouts include a Stairway establishment represented an important and is devoted to Venice’s seafaring history. In del Sale Dorsoduro 266 (Zattere). Spazio screenings of an international scope. Open daily of Honour, a Vestibule and a Reading Room moment in the history of 16th century Venetian addition to the main building, whose exhibition Vedova –Ticket Office and Bookshop Dorsoduro 10am-7pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. embellished with 16th century decorations. art, above all thanks to Tintoretto’s famous spaces span 42 rooms and five floors, the 50 (Zattere). T: 041 2410833. Vaporetto line 1 Full price ticket €15; Combo ticket: €20. www. Together with Palazzo della Zecca, where the cycle of Old and New Testament scenes. Open Cold-painted terracotta by Arturo Martini, ‘Padiglione delle Navi’ (Ships Pavilion), located in (Accademia stop or Salute stop), 2 (Accademia palazzograssi.it. T: 041 2001057 Palazzo Grassi San reading rooms and offices are located, it is still daily, 9.30am-5.30pm. Closed on 25 December and 1 named ‘Prostitute’ (1913), donated by Maria the Arsenale’s old ‘Oars Workshop’, is also a part stop), 5.1/5.2 (Spirito Santo stop), 6 (Zattere stop). Marco 30124 (Campo San Samuele). Vaporetto line 2 a part of the monumental headquarters of the January. Full price ticket €10; Scuola Grande + church Barbantini to the CA’ PESARO, International of the museum. Built in the mid-16th century as Map E6 (San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo stop). Map D4 • Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana which in addition €8. www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it. San Polo, 3052 Gallery of Modern Art. capesaro.visitmuve.it a workshop to build and store oars, since 1980 it Museo Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto to rare books also hosts priceless, antique (Campo San Rocco stop). T: 041 718234. Vaporetto has housed an impressive collection of historical Palazzo Cini-La Galleria line 1 (Salute stop). Map F5 manuscripts. Open daily. www.marciana.venezia. line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4 vessels, and is an extension of the main museum’s Situated in the Venetian 'Museums Mile', between Palazzo Grimani headquarters. the Accademia, the Peggy Guggenheim collection Originally the home of the Grimani family, it was > Venice’s Historic Naval Museum (Castello 2148, and the Punta della Dogana, the 16th century MUSEUM PASS enlarged in the 16th century and decorated with Riva San Biasio. T: 041 2441399) is currently Palazzo Cini in San Vio is the house-museum of frescoes, marbles and stuccoes that made it one closed for renovation but the Padiglione delle Count Vittorio Cini, and houses some remarkable of Venice’s most unique buildings in terms of Just one ticket for 11 museums > Navi, located just steps from the Naval Museum, art collections: 14th-15th century paintings from its architecture, history and cultural and artistic The Museum Pass is a cumulative ticket is open for public viewing, Tuscany and Ferraro (Piero della Francesca, offerings. Opened to the public in 2008 following that offers access to all the permanent > Padiglione delle Navi: from 1 June to 31 Filippo Lippi, Dosso Dossi and Cosmè Tura), its in-depth restoration, it is now a museum collections of Venice’s civic and affiliated October: open daily, 8.45am-5pm (last admission period furniture, silverware, ivories and ceramics. hosting a few select works, typifying the style museums. It is valid for 6 months and 4.30pm); from 1 November to 31 May: Mon-Thurs Closed on Tuesdays. Full price ticket €10. www. of 16th century collections. Open Mon 8.15am- allows one entry per museum site. 8.45am-1.30pm, Fri 8.45am-5pm (last admission palazzocini.it. Dorsoduro 864 (San Vio). T: 041 2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Closed 1 January, 4.30pm), Sat-Sun and public holidays 10am-5pm. 2710217. Vaporetto Lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop), Full price ticket €24 > This ticket is 1 May, 25 December. Full ticket price: €4. Ticket Full ticket price €5. www.marina.difesa.it. Castello lines 2, 4, 5, 6 (Zattere stop). Map E5 valid for: Palazzo Ducale, Museo Correr, pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. 2162/c (Rio della Tana). T: 041 2711411. Vaporetto Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Sale Palazzo Ducale www.palazzogrimani.org. Castello, 4858. Info line 1, 4.1, 4.2 (Arsenale stop). Map H5 Monumentali della Biblioteca Nazionale A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic and bookings T: 041 5200345. Vaporetto line 1, 2 art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, Marciana; Ca’ Rezzonico-Museo del Museo Vedova-Magazzino del Sale (Rialto stop), line 14, 5.1, 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Venice’s Ducal Palace features a number of different Settecento Veneziano; Museo di Palazzo The objective of the Emilio and Annabianca Map F4 and intricate architectural and ornamental details, Mocenigo e Centro Studi di Storia del Vedova Foundation is to promote the art and work dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence Palazzo Mocenigo - Centro Studi di Tessuto e del Costume; Casa di Carlo of artist Emilio Vedova with a series of cultural and government centre of the Doges, it not only Storia del Tessuto e del Costume Goldoni and Biblioteca di Studi Teatrali; initiatives (research, exhibitions, educational houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited Formerly a patrician residence, in 1985 it became Ca’ Pesaro-Galleria Internazionale d’Arte activities, conventions, study grants and awards). via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all the Study Centre of the History of Fabrics and Moderna + Museo d’Arte Orientale; Its two permanent exhibition spaces, used to of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Costumes. Its exhibition spaces explore various Museo del Vetro; Museo del Merletto; showcase works by the latter, also host temporary Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The public entrance to the aspects of the lives and activities of Venetian Museo di Storia Naturale. exhibitions and events on a rotational basis: the Doge’s Palace is through the ‘Porta del Frumento’ aristocrats between the 17th and 18th centuries. The Magazzino del Sale 266 – based on a project by Info & Reservations: www.visitmuve.it which leads to the spacious council rooms and exhibits on display include opulent garments and Renzo Piano – and the former Studio Vedova. Call center 848 082000. then onwards to the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s olden-day accessories, with a section dedicated to Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price From abroad +39 041 42730892. Museo Correr Apartment. Other highlights on this route include perfume. The palazzo’s furnishings and paintings ticket €8; www.fondazionevedova.org. Magazzino the prisons and loggias overlooking the square have been integrated with a number of works

50 WHERE VENICE I MARCH 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 51 ENTERTAINMENT FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM Currently celebrating its 94th edition, the rich events CONCERT VENUES calendar of this year’s Opera Festival featured 46 LA FENICE performances with 5 operas staged on a rotational OPERA HOUSE & THEATRES basis: ‘Carmen’ by Georges Bizet, ‘Aida’, ‘La Traviata’, Teatro Goldoni ‘Il Trovatore’ by Giuseppe Verdi and ‘Turandot’ by The Goldoni Theater is the oldest theater in Venice Giacomo Puccini. (www.mostracallas.it). www.arena. www.teatrolafenice.it and the fourth most ancient in the city. Built by the it. Verona, piazza Bra 1. T: 045 8005151, 5873. Off Vendramin family in 1622, it was originally named Map after them. Its high point came in 1752, when it Teatro Olimpico Vicenza engaged Carlo Goldoni, the city’s most important One of Vicenza’s artistic marvels (located 75 km dramatist at that time. It was renovated several from Venice), the Teatro Olimpico was designed by times, first in 1818 and subsequently in 1933 and Renaissance architect Andrea Palladio in 1580. It is in 1979. In addition to Verona’s Teatro Nuovo and the first and oldest covered ‘Teatro Stabile’ in the Padua’s Teatro Verdi, the Goldoni Theater is now world. Its interior simulates the outdoor setting of managed by the Teatro Stabile di Veneto. www. classical theatres, with a monumental rectangular teatrostabiledelveneto.it. San Marco, 4650/B. T: 041 proscenium, built to host its inaugural performance 2402011. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map E4 in 1585. Seven wooden perspective scenes depicting Teatro La Fenice the streets of Thebes depart from here in a sunburst UNMISSABLE Located in the Sestiere San Marco, pattern. Included in UNESCO’s list of World Heritage La Fenice Opera House is the one of the most Sites in 1994, it continues to host performances and legendary opera houses in Italy. Twice destroyed by concerts. www.teatrolimpicovicenza.it. Vicenza, ■ fire (1836 and 1996) and twice restored to its former piazza Matteotti, 11. T: 0444 222800. Off Map OPERA splendour, for centuries it has been Venice's principal 1, 2 March stage for world-class opera, music, symphonies and WELLNESS LA BOHÈME the International Festival of Contemporary Music. In Music by: Giacomo Puccini the 19th century, it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas Boscolo Venezia Stefano Ranzani, conductor by Gioachino Rossini, Vincenzo Bellini, Gaetano Elegance, style and design blend to create a Francesco Micheli, director Donizetti and Giuseppe Verdi, while in the 20th regenerating oasis, the ideal place for a one- Edoardo Sanchi, sets century it became a focal point for contemporary of-a-kind pampering experience offering a rich program of wellness and body treatments. c/o Silvia Aymonino, costumes productions, featuring world premieres by Igor Claudio Marino Moretti, chorus master Stravinskij, Benjamin Britten, Sergej Prokofiev, Luigi Boscolo Venezia. Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta 24 , 25, 28, 29, 20, 31 March Nono and Bruno Maderna and recently also operas Madonna dell’Orto - Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 by Mauricio Kagel, Adriano Guarnieri, Luca Mosca 2208111. Vaporetto line 4.1 and 5.1 (Sant’Alvise and 1, 2, 4 April and Claudio Ambrosini. www.teatrolafenice.it. The stop). Map E2 CARMEN theater is generally open daily for tours from 9.30am Music by: Georges Bizet Centro Benessere Casanova to 6pm. Full ticket: 10 €. The ticket price includes an An intimate, relaxing location set in the gardens Myung-Whun Chung, conductor audio guide, available in 5 languages (Italian, English, where Casanova was known to court his lovers. Calixto Bieito, director German, French and Spanish). San Marco, 4387 The Center offers a wide range of treatments and Alfons Flores, sets (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 786672. Vaporetto line 1 massages with a particular emphasis on facials or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5 ■ and body treatments. c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. CONCERTS www.belmond.com. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. 4, 5 March (Teatro Malibran) GAMBLING & CASINOS Vaporetto line 4.1 (Zitelle stop). Map F4 MARCO ANGIUS CONCERT Music by: Carmine-Emanuele Cella, Casinò di Venezia San Clemente Palace Kempinski Camillo Togni, Robert Schumann Inaugurated in 1638, this is the world's oldest gaming Here you can experience the Herb Massage Therapy Marco Angius, conductor house and its charm has remained unaltered over service, a new approach to healing: an intimate and Wellness and luxury the years. A perfect example of renaissance style authentic journey based on the restorative powers ■ CHAMBER MUSIC stately home, the dwelling place of the doges and of herb plants and the sensuous scents of Venice. 8, 9 March (Sale Apollinee) Venice, a city of artistic treasures, romantic settings and luxurious wellness retreats. Treat yourself to Richard Wagner’s last residence, Ca’ Vendramin The San Clemente Palace Kempinski offers a variety MUSIKÀMERA – GERHARD QUARTET Calergi is one of the most elegant buildings of massages - relaxing, Swedish and deep tissue some pleasant relaxation at a unique spot with a spectacular view over the lagoon, the Spa on the Music by: Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, overlooking Venice’s major waterway, the Grand - combining essential oils of lavender, rosemary and Island of Roses. By Stefania Vida Canal. Today the rooms for elegant French games sage. Teas and coffee made with Venetian herbs Aban Berg, Bedrich Smetana and American gaming tables are given over to the and spices are complimentary. c/o San Clemente Lluis Castán Cochs and Judit Bardolet ush, expansive gardens, a breathtaking enchanted place. It’s really simple: you can Himalayan pink salt wall, a bio-sauna heated best professionals, whilst over 600 slot machines Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com. Isola di San Vilaró, violin provide a more informal way of having fun. For view over Venice’s skyline and, in 2015, take the resort’s regular, free shuttle launch to 45°C, a hammam (a traditional Turkish bath), Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Hotel’s complimentary Miquel Jordà Saún, viola venues, opening times, tickets: www.casinovenezia. boat from piazza San Marco. Off Map Jesús Miralles Roger, cello a hospital-to-hotel conversion, which from San Marco Giardinetti, a 20-minute a gym and a heated indoor swimming pool L it. Ca’ Vendramin Calergi - Cannaregio, 2040. T. 041 21, 22 March (Sale Apollinee) won numerous awards, by archistar Matteo journey, which takes you directly to the island. that extends outdoors into its picturesque 5297111. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marcuola stop). JW Marriott Venice Housed in a simple and elegant building, the Spa – MUSIKÀMERA – PIETRO DE MARIA IN Thun, make the Island of Roses a tranquil Inspired by the ethos of Venice, a gateway gardens (16 hectares), characterized by age- • Ca' Noghera - Italy’s first American-style casino, opened in 1999, it offers over 5,000 square meters of the largest in Venice with its 1,750 m² – opens like a RECITAL retreat. You can easily begin your exploration to the East, and offering a different in-depth old olive trees, and a wooden parterre, where entertainment, including a new poker room for Texas shell onto the water and has eight treatment cabins Music by: Johann Sebastian Bach, of the treasures of the Lagoon from this concept of wellness, the Spa on the Island of guests can spend a relaxing day, taking yoga hold’em Poker tournaments. Via Paliaga 4/8 Tessera with a view of the lagoon and a marvellous suite. c/o Goldberg Variations retreat, and also treat yourself to some Roses is a special place to rejuvenate, relax and and meditation classes and participating in (5 minutes from the Marco Polo Airport). Map E2 JW Marriott Venice. www.jwvenice.com. Isola delle Pietro De Maria, piano relaxation. An interesting fact: the Island of experience the luxury of the most exclusive exercises based on a holistic approach. Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300. Private boat from piazza San Marco c/o moletto JW Marriott ■ DANCE Roses is the ‘youngest’ island in the Venetian treatments. The Spa is open to outside guests from 9.30am VENETO HOT VENUES every 30 minutes. Off Map 16, 17, 18 March (Teatro Malibran) lagoon. Founded ‘only’ in 1870, it has, since Housed in a simple yet elegant early 20th- to 8pm (adults only age 16+). Arena di Verona PARSON DANCE – DANCE COMPANY its establishment, been one of the favourite century building, this Spa – the largest in The best-preserved Roman amphitheater in the Eforea Spa David Parson, choreographer destinations of illustrious figures, including Venice extending over an area of 1750 square world and the best known in Italy after Rome’s The Spa offers five treatment rooms but also a sauna, Howell Bimkley, light designer a Turkish bath, a Jacuzzi and a relaxation area. Make King Vittorio Emanuele III, who visited it in metres, faces onto the water, offering eight >> c/o JW Mariott Venice Resort & Spa Colosseum, the Arena, the city’s legendary open-air David Parson/Judy Wirkula/Naomi opera house, is located in Verona’s historic centre sure to visit its panoramic swimming pool (reserved Luppescu/Mia McSwain , costumes 1936, as the royal coat of arms at its entrance treatment rooms overlooking the lagoon. Isola delle Rose (115 km from Venice). Each summer, since 1913, it has for hotel guests only). c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. bears witness. Other on-site amenities include a Finnish Laguna di San Marco hosted a famous opera festival featuring must-see molinostuckyhilton.it. Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723414. Rita Blitt, visual art You will ask yourself how you get to this sauna heated to a temperature of 90°C with a www.jwvenice.com performances and internationally renowned stars. Vaporetto line 4.1 (Giudecca stop). Map G6

52 WHERE VENICE I MARCH 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 53 OUT OF TOWN CENTURIES OF HISTORY On the previous page, Villa Pisani in Stra, one of the most famous Veneto Villas . On the right, a corner of Verona with the Arena. Below, a breathtaking view of Cortina d'Ampezzo, in the heart of the Dolomites and, at the bottom, Treviso.

historical bridges allows visitors to absorb some of Verona’s most romantic, scenic views – the perfect place to fall in love. www.tourism.verona.it DISTANCE FROM VENICE: 115 km

Veneto, all the allure CORTINA D'AMPEZZO Verona Don’t miss the opportunity of a weekend getaway at one of Italy’s most exclusive resorts, of the region a charming town exclusively positioned in the heart of the breathtaking Dolomites. A symbol of style, fashion and the Italian way of life, Cortina is the spectacular scenery and full range Villa Pisani, Stra of alpine sports and outdoor activities offered by this bustling mountain town, attract nature lovers and sports enthusiasts during all seasons. First rate skiing, a lively après-ski scene, exclusive Several charming destinations, of a medieval castle and is still inhabited, some Above all, Verona is known as the city of love. It shopping and a great choice of events and a perfect way to spend say, by the ghost of Giovanni Sagredo, a disciple is the famous setting of Shakespeare’s Romeo entertainment, confirms Cortina’s position as a and friend of Galileo Galilei. and Juliet, but it is also a vibrant town, boasting world-class winter destination. Winter offers an a relaxing day while having fun. www.rivieradelbrentaturismo.com an intense cultural life. array of outdoor activities including excursions By Simona P.K. Daviddii You are likely to stumble upon Juliet’s house on snowcats and sleighs, nighttime descents VERONA with its beautiful Gothic portal and famous from mountain refuges, romantic helitours, ice Located just over a hundred kilometers from balcony, while strolling through the streets driving, snowkiting and horse-drawn sleigh Venice, Verona captivates visitors with a stunning of the ancient city, amidst squares, porticoes, rides… to enjoy the magic of the Dolomites medieval historical center, encircling the Roman aristocratic palazzi, medieval towers, churches from dawn to dusk. Arena – the ultimate stage for musical events and courts. Romeo’s house, with its imposing cortina.dolomiti.org - www.dolomitiskirock.com VILLAS OF BRENTA in summer. Although the Arena attracts music crenellated walls, is located just a little further DISTANCE FROM VENICE 420 km Cortina d'Ampezzo The magnificent Brenta Riviera, crossed by lovers/aficionados from all over the world, the on. The Adige river is located just steps away, the Brenta River and its canals, occupies most haunts of Romeo and Juliet are no less popular. and a sunset stroll along its shores and over its TREVISO of the stretch of land that runs from Padua to Lying at the heart of the city is piazza dei

Venice. Over the centuries, sumptuous villas, Cortina d'Ampezzo Signori, home to Palazzo dei Trecento and the set in lush, beautifully tended gardens, were ? elegant Loggia Dei Cavalieri. Its two rivers, the built on the banks of different waterways. Sile and the Cagnan, meander gently amidst There are approximately thirty villas, and its streets adding a unique touch of charm to LUGANO Marostica ? the best way to admire them is from the Palmanova its historic centre encircled by the old town MENDRISIO Treviso ? water, embarking either in Padua or Venice BERGAMO BRESCIA Verona Vicenza ? walls. Its colonnaded houses with their frescoed for a pleasant day cruise, perhaps on board ? ? ? Noventa facades overlooking the Buranelli canal and NOVARA Padua di Piave TRIESTE a ‘burchiello’, a reproduction of the ancient MILANO Abano ? ? the Isola della Pescheria tell of Treviso’s close 18th century craft used by Venetian noblemen. Montegrotto? Venice relationship with its waters. Mantua ? Among the gems that embellish the shores, ?Chioggia The artistic treasures housed in the Duomo and the monumental Villa Pisani in Stra, is a must ALESSANDRIA in the museum hub of Santa Caterina dei Servi see. Palladio also left his mark on Brenta: near TORINO FERRARA di Mari are particularly noteworthy and include Mira, you will find the 16th century Villa Foscari PIACENZA MAR works by Bellini, Lotto, Titian and Bassano. Art also known as la Malcontenta. In Mira, make lovers should make a point of visiting Casa dei GENOVA ADRIATICO sure to visit the 16th century Villa Contarini BOLOGNA Carraresi which hosts prestigious international dei Leoni and in its vicinity Villa Widman, exhibitions. A city with a beguiling charm all of RIMINI a spectacular 18th century complex. The MAR LIGURE its own brimming over with picturesque osterie last noteworthy aristocratic dwelling is Villa PISA and small cafes overlooking its squares. FIRENZE Treviso, piazza dei Signori Sagredo in Vignovo. It was built on the remains VENTIMIGLIA DISTANCE FROM VENICE: 30 km

54 WHERE VENICE I MARCH 2017 LIVORNO www.wheretraveler.com 55 ANCONA

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Euganei Hills Garden of Villa Barbarigo Portal of Diana, Villa Barbarigo

visitors could access the Portal of Diana – so- garden is owed to the loving care bestowed called because of the goddess of hunting who upon it by the ‘Barbarigo Noblemen’ during WATER FIRST AND FOREMOST ! A unique blend of nature, art and wellness stands atop it – via water from Venice. Today, the 17th and 18th centuries, the noble Michiel Battaglia can still be reached by boat. In those family and the Counts of Martinengo during For the first time, in the exclusive “Venetian Set against the green hills of the Euganei Hills and located approximately WELCOME TO THE COLLI EUGANEI days, however, initiates had to cross the Valley the 19th century and the Counts of Donà delle Thermal Water” line, thermal spring 60 kilometres from Venice, the magnificent Villa Barbarigo, one of the most Known as the ‘Pearl of the Euganei of Sant’Eusebio, now known as Valsanzibio Rose during the early 20th century. The villa water is combined with two anti-ageing beautiful Veneto Villas in the area, is worth taking a trip out of town. Hills’, Villa Barbarigo with its (from which the garden takes its name) to reach and it gardens have been the property of the properties: hyaluronic acid which helps monumental garden is located in an the landing stage in front of the garden. Counts of Pizzoni-Ardemani since 1929. Owners to restore skin elasticity, and natural anti- area steeped in nature and history, of the estate for three generations, the Pizzoni- oxidants, including Goji and Cassia Alato At Villa Barbarigo, in the province of Padua, It was the latter – a cardinal, the Archbishop the ideal destination for art lovers AN AUTHENTIC HISTORICAL GARDEN Ardemani family not only repaired the damage Leaf extracts, which protect the skin from you can admire the authentic Italian Baroque of Padua and a future saint – who inspired the and nature enthusiasts. Thanks to Built between 1665 and 1696, the garden of caused by military occupation and the forced the effects of ageing. This line is a result of Garden of Valsanzibio. Over the years, it has religious symbolism of the project designed by the thermal waters of Abano and Valsanzibio is an extraordinary example of abandonment of the villa during World War II, the combination of thermal water drawn gained international recognition. In addition leading Vatican architect and fountain expert Montegrotto Terme, the largest spa a symbolic garden. This magnificent garden but also recently renovated all of the garden’s from four springs in the Veneto region, being published in leading art and botany Luigi Bernini, brother of the famous sculptor hub in Europe, the area is a sought-after boasts a number of fully operative water 33 water features, damaged by eighty years of mixed to obtain different concentrations books, it was named the most beautiful Gianlorenzo. Cardinal Barbarigo wanted the destination for those in search features and is currently one of the largest, gradual ground-water depletion. based on their specific salinity: water from garden in Italy in 2003 and one of the most garden of Valsanzibio to symbolize the path of of relaxing, wellness retreats best-kept Baroque gardens in the world. Credit www.valsanzibiogiardino.it the Primavera Source of the Palatini-based beautiful in Europe in 2007. In 2004, it was perfection that leads man from Error to Truth, for the preservation of this beautifully tended [email protected] ‘Terme di Salzano’ (in which bicarbonate, used as the setting for the Merchant of from Ignorance to Revelation. The Pavilion or calcium and magnesium are dissolved); the Venice, a romantic film starring Al Pacino. In Portal of Diana was not the only main access waters of ‘Terme di Bibione’ (originating 2013, ‘QVC’, an American television network, route via water to the Barbarigo estate in the from deep underground springs); chose it for a program that was aired live and, 12th and 13th centuries. This superb, imposing the low mineral content water in 2016 ‘Arte’, the European Culture Channel, gateway represented the beginning of the from the ‘Terme dei Colli Asolani’ dedicated an installment of the program Road to Salvation, ending in the open space in Crespano (home to the spring ‘Jardins d’ici et d’ailleurs’ to it, selecting that houses the Fountain of the Mushroom, also named for Empress Sissi ); and it from among twenty of Europe’s most known as the Fountain of Ecstasy. The mud used by the spas of the hotels in Abano and Montegrotto finally, the water of the ‘Terme Euganee’ (which flows through important historical gardens. Each year, the Terme, affiliated with the AQUAEHOTELS Consortium, is identified by the municipalities of Abano, garden is a highly sought-after destination A SYMBOLIC ITINERARY the ‘Fango Eutrofico Eudermico Euganeo ( “F.E.E.E.”) trademark and Montegrotto, Battaglia, Teolo and for international tourists. This magnificent Baroque garden has 70 is quality certified. The production process – which guarantees specific Galzignano at a temperature of statues, mostly by Marengo, sculpted in Istrian characteristic and scientifically proven therapeutic properties – makes it 87°C). ‘Venetian Thermal Water’ THE MAJESTIC PARK, stone. There are also other minor sculptures unique worldwide. The salt-bromine-iodine hyper-thermal water which can be purchased online at THE STAR OF THE SHOW that blend harmoniously with the architecture, gushes from the depths of the sub-soil in Abano and Montegrotto Terme www.aquaehotels.it or from the The villa, which was used as a residence prior streams, waterfalls, fountains, water features at a temperature of 80°C, is contained in special vats known as ‘fangaie’. best hotels and sales points in the to the design of its monumental garden, and fish pools that are scattered amidst When this water comes into contact with the natural clay enriched with area. Ask your concierge. complements the majestic park. In fact, it is numerous trees and shrubs, spread over more micro-algae spores, a process involving the production of powerful the only Veneto Villa whose park is the main than 10 hectares of land. Additionally, within the biological active principles comes into play, serving not only as a cure for feature. The garden was built during the complex itself, important highlights along the muscle and back problems but also as a therapy to combat skin-ageing. second half of the 17th century by Venetian Road to Salvation include the Bosso maze, the To try a F.E.E.E. mud treat visit the www.aquaehotels.it website. BENESSERE STILE DI VITA nobleman Zuane Francesco Barbarigo, with symbolic Cave of the Hermit, Rabbit Island and www.aquaehotels.it the help of his sons, Antonio and Gregorio. the Monument to Time. Until the 19th century,

56 WHERE VENICE I MARCH 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 57 ESSENTIALS FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM Emergency

POLICE T: 113 AMBULANCE T: 118 FIRE BRIGADE T: 115 TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070 LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179 24-HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at all pharmacies. Airports INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA AIRPORT (VCE) - Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www. alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.

Trains “SESTIERI”, THE DISTRICTS OF VENICE FERROVIE DELLO STATO - Trenitalia Railway Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. Isola di San Michele Santa Croce Cannaregio Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia) can be accessed from all main European and Italian cities. The Railway Station overlooks Venice, the Floating City the lagoon and is located just steps from the stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines. San Polo Some information and invaluable tips to experience the best that this magical city on water has to offer. E.g.: to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto, Castello take line 1 or 2. Estimated journey time from main Dorsoduro San Marco By Simona P. K. Daviddi Italian cities via high-speed trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, Frecciargento, Italians (at least many of them), may already ones) in order to cross the city’s flooded calli, Venice also has its own network of public... Italo, Thello, Eurocity: Giudecca know that Venice… actually floats! Unlike campielli and salizade. Calli, campielli and and private transportation: its vaporetti, real Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore Amsterdam or Saint Petersburg, it is not just salizade are Venetian words used to identify waterbuses, are the most popular craft used Tourist Information furrowed by canals, bordered by roads and streets, squares and alleys while sestieri is by locals, which is why they are often very APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città pavements. In Venice, canals are the only the local word indicating the six districts the crowded during peak hours. These engine- Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia. Cannaregio, like Castello, is the largest and San Marco takes its name from the Basilica. it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. most densely populated district of Venice. Its This is the city’s main sestiere because it available communication route, bearing in city is divided into: San Marco, Dorsoduro, powered water taxis are able to whiz across T: 041 5298711. name probably derives from the expanse of houses the palaces that once constituted the mind that part of the city extends over a Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo and the lagoon in a heartbeat, but for those reeds found in the swamps on which it was government of Venice until its fall. VENEZIA UNICA - The official tourism website handful of beautiful islands that are scattered Castello. This division dates back to the 12th who prefer a unique, incredibly romantic built. of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it) San Polo, which takes its name from the across the Lagoon. For this reason, the lagoon century and also includes areas such as La experience, the famous, distinctive gondola Castello takes its name from the castle of church of San Polo, is the geographic centre city can only be crossed on foot or by boat. Giudecca, the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore is an absolute must. This elegant, black, Tourist Card which traces still remain today. It extends of Venice. It stretches from the highest part of Cars, motorbikes, bicycles and even roller (San Marco) and the Island of San Michele, one-oared rowing boat drifts gently across VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one pass around the Arsenale and includes the the Rialto Bridge and is the place where the skates are strictly forbidden. But this is not home to the city’s cemetery (Castello). the water, while its gondolier sings an entire that offers unlimited use of public transportation, Gardens of the Biennale and the Riva degli Rialto fish and vegetable market is held. Schiavoni. all. At times Venice may find itself... under Street numbers in each sestiere start from 1 repertoire of traditional Venetian folk songs. admission to tourist attractions and cultural Santa Croce takes its name from the ancient events in the city, plus a number of other useful water! The acqua alta phenomenon – the and often reach four figures, for example, one It goes without saying that the waters of the Dorsoduro is named after the compact sand church of the same name which unfortunately services. You can purchase your card online and result of heavy rainfall and high tides - can of the last numbers of the sestiere of Castello canals are not suitable for swimming, and their dunes found in this area. It overlooks both the was demolished under Napoleon’s rule. It customize your Venezia Unica City Pass Grand Canal and the Giudecca Canal, along includes the Stazione Marittima and the cause the water level to rise by as much as is 7,000. banks are often slippery. Be careful not to be to suit your individual travel needs which the long promenade known as the piazzale Roma terminal, a junction for train a meter, forcing everyone to walk on raised You need to learn them if you want so focused on your selfie stick that you walk (www.veneziaunica.it/en) exchange vouchers. Fondamenta delle Zattere stretches. and road transport (buses, cars) and lagoon plank walkways, or don rain boots (many to find your way through the spectacular, into a canal because you might be in for some Open daily 9am-4pm. traffic (ferries, vaporetti or water buses). © PAOLA DALLA VALENTINA T: 392 6786628. shops, including tobacconists, sell disposable maze-like historic centre. rather unpleasant surprises!

58 WHERE VENICE I MARCH 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 59 ESSENTIALS FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

GETTING AROUND VENICE THE LIDO OF VENICE Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-min- Although the Lido is Venice’s beach, it is also much ute walk from North to South) whose main points of more. An island, a town with its own history and interest are situated just a short distance from each a nature reserve, it is also a jet-setters’ paradise, other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution. with luxury hotels and exclusive villas. In September, it becomes the world capital of cinema.

Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation The Lido (meaning beach in Italian) is a separate to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs island from Venice. Measuring less than 200 metres less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Landing in depth in certain areas, it is a 12km stretch of stages are located at central points around the sand, strategically positioned between the Lagoon city (including Piazzale Roma, Rialto, Piazza San and the open sea, only connected to the city and Marco…) . dry land by ‘vaporetti’ or ferry boats. The clear difference between the Lido and Venice Tickets - Although paper tickets are available is that the Lido has real streets, which means you at main embarkation points and from authorized get around by car. In mid-November, Rolls Royce’s, resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic Cadillac’s and Bentleys abound at the entrances tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV. tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale of grand hotels. However, today, it is considered Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are TIP Before embarking, we suggest that you check Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from chicer to access the Lido by boat or explore it on 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly official rates (approximately €80 for 45 minutes and your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis foot or by bicycle. tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly €100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and can be costly, they are the fastest and most pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges. practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www. concierge. WHAT TO SEE - The nature reserve and wild Canal to the other costs 50 cents (via ferry).You can gondolavenezia.it sand dunes of the Alberoni, recognized and Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland pre-purchase reduced-price tickets from Venice protected by the WWF since 1997, are the perfect by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km Connected: www.veniceconnected.com. IMOB Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that place for a quick swim. The area comprises 160 bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the smart cards are available at all ACTV ticket offices. cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides hectares of land, including two kilometers of ‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options Although they allow you to save on official rates, cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City golden sand dunes that extend from Murazzi to at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island they are only recommended for long-term visits. Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) the Alberoni dam, and a beautiful pine forest. For of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services a natural beach experience, the Lido also offers approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the operate in Venice. several free beaches, like the sandy dunes of San The Excelsior Venice Hotel travel to Mestre by car (24-hour parking costs best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to Nicolò, the rocky outcrops of the Murazzi, or the Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to experience a view of Venice that is anything but beach known to the Venetians as ‘Bluemoon”. pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by are available for hire from 16 landing stages, Venice by public transport. Among other attractions, the area is home to an exclusive golf club set against a stunning backdrop of umbrella pines and poplars. Founder of the famous automotive house and an avid fan of Venice, Henry Ford commissioned the Gondolas, a tourist’s dream! course in 1926, when he discovered to his disappointment that there was nowhere else Tradition has it that each gondolier has his own gondola, custom- where he could play golf, a sport widely practiced made according to his weight and height. in America, but not in Italy at that time. Among the most ancient boatyards (or 'squeri'), the most WHERE TO GO - Moving to the other end of remarkable is perhaps that of Domenico Tramontin and Sons. the island, we find Malamocco, a small, ancient Established in 1884, it was the supplier to the House of Savoy, town that offers visitors a mini experience of Venice with its canals, ‘campielli’ and ancient SVIDA_WHEREITALIA the Prefecture and the Commune of Venice buildings. Also dating back to olden times, in a (Dorsoduro, 1542. www.tramontingondole.it). more northerly direction, is the settlement of San An interesting feature that you are bound to Nicolò, featuring a Benedictine complex built in PHOTOS © notice on a gondolier’s uniform is the logo. Its the 11th century. Join us for an unforgettable experience in Venice most recent version was created by the Style WHAT TO DO - Don’t miss a walk, or even Department of Duca d’Aosta, a shop established better, a bike ride along the Murazzi, the in 1902 in the Rialto neighbourhood by Emilio remains of ancient fortresses which are now Ceccato. used as a race track. Bicycles are provided by The logo features St. Mark as the Winged Lion, holding an open several of the island’s hotels. If you happen to be there at the right time, you will be treated to book, a symbol of peace and strength, framed by two 'ferri' – the a breathtaking sunset. What’s more, you’ll also traditional iron gondola prow ornaments (also known in Venetian get a glimpse of a wilder, more untamed side of ... Ask only for the Best Service! as 'fero da próva' or 'dolfin'). Venice, amidst the boats and fishermen searching Bringing one home as a keepsake is neither easy (nor cheap!), but for clams. One of the island’s rituals, that you should not A hallmark symbol of Venice, who has never dreamt of riding you can avoid this by purchasing a souvenir created ad hoc. Where? lnternational Limousine Service miss is having a ‘spritz’: the Venetian cocktail is the exclusive ticket resale point for the on one of these marvels of craftsmanship, whose charms have At Emilio Ceccato’s clothing and accessory store, the official or aperitivo par excellence. You won’t have any withstood the test of time? supplier and technical sponsor of the Associazione Gondolieri di trouble finding one at any bar on the Gran Viale, Gran Teatro La Fenice and the Arena of Verona The components (approximately 280) of these extraordinary craft Venezia (The Gondolier’s Association of Venice) in San Polo 16/17 the Lido’s promenade. If you’re not pressed for still bear their almost fairytale-like names of the past: ‘sankòni’, (T: 041 5222700) and in San Marco, 257 (T: 041 8478885). time you can catch a boat from the Gran Viale to Pellestrina (where you can eat fabulously fresh ‘fiùboni’, ‘solarai’ and ‘maistre’... To name but a few. www.emilioceccato.com fish, or a sandwich with fried sardines), or travel to www.internationallimousine.it Chioggia, a second, smaller Venice that abounds Piazzale Roma 496 I-L T: +39 041 5221867 in fabulous small restaurants.

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San Marcuola CA MIN L DE STRADA NOVA CAMPIELLO ENTA ZE OV LLE E C C L CAMPO E DE N A DEL TRONCHETTO DEL REMER TR C ALL A ELI FON A F ’ SAN MARCUOLA EN L San Geremia A D. S.ANDREA MI LE LARG A E G CALL FONDA SER H IET GAZ PRIUL 3 Casino E SAN C ALLE V A SPAGNA TT A A P D ICO O VE M OLTI M EI BOTERI ENTE di Venezia E L I AI S.Marcuola Rio dei Santi Apostoli RD E L CCH C People Mover Venezia FOND. AL D N C CAMPO DE SA LE E D C IA e ALLE DEL L DAMENTA RTOR VENIER E L OVE d L AVALLETTI I I n O a Museo LE ERBE L AL r A C FON CAMPO G C l A OZZI ISOLA DELLE TRESSE a Civico STUA FONDAMENTA DE LA CARITA’ TERÀ LISTA DI n a IULI O C CALL PR NO DEI CORDONI

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C E TE E E I IO T DE NDIS Santa Maria RIVA ER L VO CALLE S A San Zan DEL RU À LTO EL B T Palazzo AR E TO LE Rio Ca’ Dolce I BA L E FRUTA L RAM H O AL di Nazareth ERÀ LE V R DEL

Parcheggio Bus Turistici TEGO IO IOL M CORTE DEL C Degola CAL ORA Gidoni E FONDAMEN AG CAMPO EG R POZETO ZI ON D M E L O T T DE ORO VENEZIA SAN ZAN DEGOLA’ OR A F L CAMPIELLO CA E

RI IT ALL S D . DEL A FONDAMENTA NOVE C C O DE LA MADONNA AL San Stae C IST LL SAL LE NI E LE L TRON Ca' Pesaro ST UERO NTO CA CAMPIELLO CAMPIELLO Ponte RAD A CAMPO RIO I ’ LLE ST NO Santa Sofia VALMARANA T DEL PESTRIN SQ A T SANTI APOSTO ER R AE Galleria Internazionale N C L C A A DEL P A ALLE Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia ’ DE T À O CORTE E degli Scalzi L N ERD .S SAN SIMON ARI ’IS S O R FONDAMENTA DEI OLA V C VA OVA DA BATAGIA San Lazzaro B d'Arte Moderna R I E D A OR A ER S CALL CO CORTE L GRANDO T IA DEL F Ca’ D’Oro NTI LIST LLE A CAMPIELLO CORTESE A dei Mendicanti C ’ D’ Ferrovia C. DEL E A LIZ IA NDI A CALLE C C CAL AZZA A STELLA L OF RIO BA RAMO S S E CORTE NOVA LE E ARG DE CALL C. CA NDIC LA T LIZADA SAN C L VIDA ENTOR A C NTA C CALL A ORSETTI A S LL IO AL ISOLA NOVA DEL TRONCHETTO LUNGA a S Santi Apostoli ME E O LE CAMPIELLO San Simeone SA EI LLE D n P CALLE SAV EI TIO EG M WIDMANN IO RO M CAMPIELLO CALL D a R O CALLE CA G E San Simeon C. LA CA Cà d'Oro DELLA CASON R AB Profeta Z EL E I l R ZI T IE T LI NTA E D G T NNA PONTE DELLA LIBERTÀ CORTE DEL I E PUNTA SABBIONI Piccolo NU San Giacomo INA LL EL r TIOZZI I CA R RUG A V ECCHI CA a LO GA DEI BARI A CAMPIELLO TESTA S.Canciano OspedaleDAM SS. Giovanni e Paolo ARM OVA PAN n O Chiesa Evangelica N 3 CAL N 3 dall'Orio SAN CANCIANO C. TR NTA DE LE GRUE M N DR LE Rio Dei Mendicanti A d MA IO LE ICC SAN CAMPO DA C A C D SCUOL FO Ferrovia A e WI CA IN Luterana AME EL E E P A LLE G D LL GHETTO VECCHIO LIZ DE LA DIREZIONE MERCATO ITTICO NAZARIO RUGA BELA D CA People Mover Venezia S FONDAMENTA GARZOTTI E ME A RE Santa Maria LLE E S FONDAMENTA SANTA LUC A A CAMPO IM Palazzo CAMPO Z L CALL O FOND L C S.MARIA NOVA E SAURO E AL O SAN GIACOMO Mater Domini D CAMPO DELLA CALL NE Soranzo E C LA E DEI B DALL’ORIO San Cassiano PESCARIA IAN RG CAMPO I ANZ A Santa Maria del Pianto SAN SIMON G ALLE R . G CAL A SAN C ALL Capello Palazzo Grioni SANTA MARIA C E LIZAD O INA TA S SA N N Giardino di Palazzo FONDA L MATER DOMINI OT O RR P.le Roma ERGA E CAMPO CAMPO TO IO DEI MIRACOLISanta Maria D P EL O Ferrovia EI B RTE L FO Soranzo Cappello TIN SAN CASSAN CAMPO DE LA BO E SAN BOLDO A Basilica dei STELLO DAME MEN CALLE ORS G dei Miracoli E C O M ZATO E D E D N ET H T . ELL CA N E TI O S BECARIE DEL DE LE L A NA ASCHI V CALLE D L E . I C OC R N BO LL E San Giovanni C Santi Giovanni e Paolo TA E CA CAL A ALL FO ONZ F E IN LL CAMPO CA DEL CAMPO ST DE LA ’ C D A L BO LE BB FORN E CALL DO DE CAL E CESARE BATTISTI IU NV CA’ CA C. R CA O I G OLO Grisostomo LE C LL OCH IN MU Z HE E DE GIÀ CA SANTI GIOVANNI PUCC CINI C. DE L’ N ST A T TI O E CORTE CANAL LA CALLE STUA LA B ’A LL L DELLA I AP A M Ponte T ONDO OTA IA A TE A L BELLA VIENNA F DE S ON GN T E PAOLO SAN O E E TO D A T S ME Teatro Malibran LE C EL AT CAMPO I ETE A NT IS I L ’ SEC LA ALL CALL T A CASE NUOV NUOVE A R M E D H CROCE C E L A della Costituzione SAN GIACOMETO SOS C C N O LE ER FON. DEI TOLE SE NN I A C LA ER . ENTA D C BE I D A SC OR E NA RU DE N Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto I SA . CA U T E M C R CAMPO A LL A A O L L AMPI E E AMENT IO SCAL D G CORTE SECONDA CCHIO SESTI F C D S MO GL R LE DEL E A D RTE GIOV PA O LA L G. GR CA L RI LL E S E N ALLE DEI DEL MILION SANT’AGOSTINO CARAMPANE ELL ALL CALLE MA CO O TE ANS C N RA R ES IER L CA FON O San Giacomo S. FON E A R O DE CAVA LE DE L CORTE DEL O CA R TER N O F P R A À ON GON RE B BAR LE D E VE BAR VEN IA DE DE L D R TEATRO LE CAM E L I S LE . TOLE CAMPO AL E LE A L DELL' diI Rialto C E CA R D CALLE DE L’A CHIA S LE C L CAL Casa di Marco Polo AL IO TE A C LE CAL R CAST . L DEL C SANTA A C L M AMENTA PAPADOPOLI CA RAM DE LA AF E SAN O CA ET E VEC CALLE SALIZAD ZO IER GIUSTINA SECONDO NT CAMPIELLO CA FR S Canale De ScomenzeraR Sant'Andrea AN PAN CAMPO Z ANC AG Giardino Z RAD SESTIE A À O E CAMPIELLO DETTO DE ES E S E DONZELA RIALTO M CO San Francesco INI ALL ALBRIZZI R O L A LIO C RUGA DE BARBARIA R L C A’ E N ALL E DE LA DEL SOL NUOVO Fontego EU CASTELLO LACA T O T' Papadopoli CAL FONDAME T MU D

ANDREA O CALLE ZO della Vigna E CAL 9 CA S N PIE CALL CA L NT LL A C dei Tedeschi E O LLE D E AS N CAL NA A DE CO L A L E ZO V C LA CELESTI NU Z D E RA C O DEL TE A L EI C ALL ELLA V . E CCO P EL E DE E DE CAMPO E D C L D CI C C EL D FONTE .M Sant’Aponal . DE L OS LE A . D I AMAI CAM EL NQU ART PI SANTA CAMPIELLO DELLA

E CALLE DI MEZZOE G OMBO D O D E CAMPO GHETA O IN O LL L U ST EN L CALLE MAGAZEN R GIUSTINA I GO D. L CONFRATERNITA SAN POLO EL CAL A Ponte CA GA E D F SAN STIN UR CA D SA O LL PAL E N FONDAM CALLE E PE SANTA CROCE N S L GI CAMPO LI I A CAMPO GIAZ LE CORTE RA D ON L ZO CORTE OVA CAMPO AR ZZ IZ RE AP O di Rialto LLE ZADA TREVISAN N M RI RDON CAMPO A EN O I VI E SAN APONAL DEL NI C O A O I SAN BORTOLOMIO DELLA CELESTIA I M T F DIREZIONE PORTO MARITTIMO R CIM T ERÀ C CA LATERANA San Nicola TA H DEL VOLTO PRESTRIN P E L IO O C S E People Mover Venezia NI AN CAMPO E R LL PIAZZALE ROMA X ESI NE D T V O LLE DEL P O E R O A A LME M CAMPO da TolentinoA N ’AR L CALLE NUOVA TABACCHI À C SAN LIO D RAM M Rialto NA L O NT E LLE OLT ADO O C A CIM O CAMPIELLO I A CORTE C. CAMPIELLO ALL OR M ISO C ME LAV LENTI SAN POLO CAMPO E L TARI RISTO AD San Silvestro MBASEI S SANTA MARIA OR AL D DEL MORION RIO TERÀ SANT'A I ESI DEI IZ DEL V BI SALIZAD DA C E DE E AD . RU RAD FORMOSA ONDU E DRI A SANTA GIU TO DOLE BO L C F N A E LA L I S PA FONDAMENTA San Lorenzo S CORTE MELONI SAN SILVESTRO C. AN LE L TINA EL L D L FON C LE EL LI E D D A O AL DEI PRETI . CAMPO AL L GAL D DE LA F. F. C APR DE CALLE ERIZ C C I C . C

R AZZO ND DEI RA AL A I LE C E CAMPO RE Rio de le Muneghete L C I L CALLE LARGA SAN SANTA TERNITA A E L LORENZO VIDA A ZORZI TRONCHETTO DEL LA I Fontego C R IBRE . LARG CA Santa Maria RGA MAZZIN R I L A S ON. A San Rocco Basilica SAN LORENZO M FO CORTE DEL A

L CE F Chiesa Rettoriale LI O D R BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO CALL CALLE R Santa Maria ZO Dolfin Manin Z E SABION CAMPO CORTE Formosa Palazzo N A M AGNER DA E LA MA Palazzo Rava I FONDAMENTA MINOTT E dei Frari O DEL MONDO Rio Nuovo T CAMPO di S. Polo CORTE NOVA IN CAMPOIELLO ST C. D DE LA FAVA S T Rialto CORTE I EL CA della Fava NUOVO IO

F ORET ELLODE DE LA PASINA LIC A I E Grimani M Rio DE L’OG DE N ON SACCA C AR FOND CORTE LLE P SAN SALVADOR CA T DEI FRARI (Palazzo Cavalli) A ZAR L S C Rio Del Magazen DO A O I C. IO LL A DAM A SAN O LI AM o della Consolazione O LLE E CORTE DE Z SA ZA C N O C AN AM BEMB LVADOR CORTE ONI CA B S A A S LE DO EN CALLE SAN DA LLE 6 LOV RUBBI NT TA DE DE ME ENTA SA LORENZO CAMPO NA O S.Silvestro A LLE E LICINI a O T ERERIA EL CA CAMPIELLO A O TO D DR C n Lorenzo D SAN L FONDAMENTA FABBRICA TABACCHI SAN ROCCO ANT’ Palazzo CALL E E SA QUERINI L Teatro L A SAL San Giovanni O E S US N S E GATE SI LA C L STAMPALIA R N AL A L M IZA CCO C L UGA G I LE DE EV DA S CA Querini OR S MA LLE Carlo Goldoni San Salvador A C MA CASTELLO E C R R C E di Malta C I AS E GIUF EN . DE AN N RO N A ZARI MEZ R CA Palazzo A CORTE DEL i A I L o S CORTE O C P L L L A E Z ANTALON SA B L LE E DEL O ALB LE Stampalia CORTE CALL L O Sa F O O TEATRO R ZULIAN B E E DE A AL P TE R FRUTARIOLI D L I COR CA N IA CORTE DELLE GATE I Querini-Dubois n S O E

CA CAL L L PIT SA L’ IERI DE CA A ELLO AN NUOVA CAL Palazzo NE DEL TEAT al B L CALLE C La Biennale di Venezia E e CORTE DEL ALLE L LE L E CORTE ION Z L R va INA O d E R LLE L CALLE DEI FURLANI POZZO ROVERSO CAMPIELLO LO CAMPO BON A E C ZORZI n GR C P CA C dor C LU SBIACCA CALL D TRAMONTIN CA A DA CALLE DEI PRETI CAL AVALLI IS .D T O ZA RÀ DEI PENS a Grimani ELLO PIS LI Educational Arsenale E LU E A DUE POZZI E STRETA L r IMA CO L DI S CAMPOIELLO L SAN TOMÀ N LLE T E ETI L A RON PR DIREZIONE PORTO MARITTIMO L E AG M I CAL RIO TE L G SA C DE NI PIA E DE C IAPI AR O ALLE C C DE LA Arsenale di Venezia l L A CALLE B CA .DE ZA FONDAMEN a AL I E L L RA C. D R E C C FABBR E I E DEL REM FRATERNA ASEGO n BA A S L E ELLA DE C 4 CA LO I P AN A 4 C a San Giuliano San Tomà IGN CAL . D L ALL TE G L L C ZEN Z C N E L GA I OL U L MAGAZE L E CR E LIA CORTE CALLE DE I MA I SCU DE DEL TRAG San LucaCAMPIELLO EL N San Giovanni Novo San Beneto E D DEL FORNO L OS C CAMPO San Pantalon LL TIA B La Biennale di Venezia Rio dei T IN DELLA CA D CA AL E Sant'Angelo S N I AS SAN ZUANE RDO ARI R CHIESA L LE SM CA O A L CORTE L’ T Giardino delle Vergini o E NOVO DE I TA l TA ON FO en HETTO CAMPO REDI D CRE EN Teatro alle Tese tini LL EI NDAM Palazzo CORTE GRAGOLINA A NDAM SA Palazzo EONA ECI M SP FO LIZA SPE S L CO ENTA E DEL C DA S R CAZZ CAMPO SAN BENETO A . L’A CALLE PI ADA A R VO RZARI A GR A N GOL N DE SCINA SAN MART LA A IO FORNO CH I NUOVO CALLE DEL FIGHER N TON NTON E PI Giustinian Nervi R O IN CALL SAN PANTALON I VECCHIO NA DE DURO CAMPO LI IA ERI T San Giorgio Rio de le Vergini O D D G A O ORO E FONDAMENTA RIZZI SESTIERE RC ET IOLA A L GA RAGUSEI O EL RA D N G AN M P Persico NI MANIN N C. E E S Scattolin M CA T E L GA C. C AR RSO I LONN Palazzo Fortuny Z O CAL DI SAN MARCO EA E LE C L RI dei Greci ATER D ’ A IE C. AZ O ALLE LAR IC CAMPO O L TR N P C ON Canale delle Fondamenta Nuove LE C. RI A R AN

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ENI V IN OLONN A D Arsenale di Venezia ALL TIERE SI V LLE M GA L C.D SEL D STRIN ARINA ER A SS N Rio Del Palazzo S ZA

C CAMPO Palazzo FO RI L DEI LEONCINI S O C A PE SA E OTO SALI E C S S CALL DE Palazzo Balbi A D CORTE L E E T D. NA AT À N TE N L SAN O RAZZ LLE TO C L E I ER RA Basilica di San Pietro di Castello SE C ER A 1 DA A MO PRIMO DE A FO I O T I TORRETTA CA LA PERGOLA . C F E Mocenigo A DE E FONDAMENTA T L IO A ES ASSE LORENZO R ME LLE A C E CAMPO BB N CAMPO F C R ORT C L O CA CA ELLO I AL A R N CALLE L NA LLE DEL FO C SAN GALLO P DE N LE LARGA RO AL R V I TR DO T L LBA LE A A CERERI AP PIE C D R PI C A TA BANDIERA CALL E M EI LE DEL ERO C ’ A TTI A D . LLE A L MO O CORTE A D San Zaccaria S N D LA F LE RAGUSEI C ME E DE E DE L’ASEO SE N GRI SCA E E EL OV C A S ONDA N DE C SA CALL CAL DELLE ANCORE BIA L V E MORO ROS LLE San Martino R A E N FONDAMENTA INA S. S O CA FO A A CA RS T F O N D A I TA’ E A Basilica N L ALLE AD E PES V RA E C LLED E IOL DEL A I L C E M E CAL TAR CALL OL L P FONDAMENTA N TA A R S E N A L E M A FRU L CA AL ’ V C CAMPO DI C C. DEL O E RA LA EN C TR TT AL ELE AL PIO E di San Marco DE MO C U A L CALLE L E DEI CHIA E O Santa Maria CO M MU E L SALIZ CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI IN DEL CA D TA ROSSA 2 E

SANTA CAMPIELLO CAMPO RT LA M VA FONDAM I E 7 DE O R L I DOSE E LE San Giovanni Battista NE N ARSENALOTTI H E ELE VERO LE TERC C CAL ZZ Bacino Bacino Stazione Marittima EG della Pietà L NT DE LA FE DEI E L V CROSERA DE A FO L DEI MARGHERITA TIE EL LE LI C O CALL D AL ZADA S. SA R A IN C VIDA CAMPO RI in Bragora SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO SQUELINI LI N Orseolo ET La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale a ZZE A L A E F

SAN MARCO LE e San Gerolamo San e SA I FRE RI MOR d Rio L OND. RI E C. B D NO E A A G C L SANT’ANZOLO IN n E BOT C SC ARRO O NTA DE L' ARZ RIO TERA . I OR CA VOLT IO CALLE G DEI TO PI C S ’OG San Fantin L IN E L DEL PESCA ZZE DE E E F LLE D CAMPO RDO E CAL A O N D CA RNA a E GHE D BE Palazzo RRO L ALL PIAZZA SAN MARCO Palazzo Ducale E AL A M LLE L EGHE E CA A C E N CA CA L N R I VA D E G L I S C H I AV O N I L TA A A R EL OT 5 A CHIES O DEI i D U IO L GLI SCHIAVONI LLE S E N A L E LE C ORT DR EN l E ES E A L R A CAL CAL C E M I V A D E S LO CASTELLO Grassi FORNI L R U CARMINI LE D C CAL L E UG AR G CA H ALLE R D Santo Stefano I V BRIATI I Museo AR FON S I E L CA ARA A O T ’ M D L A A A E L L’ E CA L LE CALL LA N PIETRO DI C IANI C A LLE DEI D INT C E L VECCH Rio del Carmin ER . San Samuele r A E DE LE PRIMORINA Correr CA VID Ca' Rezzonico O A RGA QU AM A A NAL R RE a Teatro la Fenice E CONT N FONDAMENTA SANTA MARTA ’ E’ T D CAMPO A DE AMO S. Samuele COR AS CAMPO Santa Maria T E CAMPIELLO MOIS E SAL ALLE FONDAMENT S. Zaccaria (Pieta') L P A L n C. DE AL C Canale Scomenzera S I C C A SANTO STEFANO A LA T A A Z DEI CALEGHERI E A D CIN NA Ca' Rezzonico I NSION dei Carmini S IS ENZE S. Zaccaria (Danieli) d E P C CALLE C L RAMO DE O L A S A TANA A A San Moisè ST San Barnaba e FONDAMENTA F O N ZZ RTOR CAMPO E D A M E N TA C. San Maurizio R I O D E L L EL C ER MOLO SAN MARCO A TA RARDINI Palazzo Loredan A DEI FORNI FONDAMEN N A S HE LO G L CAL LONGHI A LO A SAN MOISE’ C A CAMPIEL TA CORTE L CAL C RO N F E CC CA L . ON AMEN A LA L V I LE C ’ ND MARZO N LLE PO OR FO MICHIEL II L O SE C XX CALLE V L LO DE LE A OR RIE D R L IA LLE RGA E DEI PR A O A E A L I E L E T CH CAL C E A L L S F LLE A L RA CAL Rio San Moise Arsenale E A CAMPO A LO MENT B NIC N O CA Santa Maria D R RESS ZO R LTRE ED A DEGLI LE V AN I IZ P S BARNA LE F R Museo Storico Navale di Venezia RIDO LLE TA A P L IE T O A N SAN MAURIZIO I A N ’ MA A ZIEN O CI A S C N IA del Giglio CALLE O RA San FrancescoR RC HIN N M ALLE SAN SAN SE I UO ETI C CAMPO D TTO CALLE DI CA ORN FOND. SAN GIOACC ARTIR C ZE A E E L U N G A A V F L L PE A Angelo CAMPO L GIUST SANTA MARIA L L di Paola A CALLE CA L S A N T ' A N N San Nicolò DEL E CAMPO DE F O N D A M E N TA C DRIO IL T AT B N A I G E L L A C EMIA DEL GIGLIO I BASTIAN S C A G ALL CORTE E Raffaele CIMITERO LLE San Vidal E TR R T DE IM dei Mendicoli E CAL PISANI T BAROZZI LAR IN R D AN

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V I A F R A N C E S C O D U O D O Copyright Where Italia srl. © 2016. Original Map by Urban File - www.urbanfile.org Italia Urban Map © 2016. Original File by Where srl. Copyright 62 WHERE VENICE I MARCH 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 63 V I A C I P R O E F A B C D G H S. Servolo I L

V I A M . F O S C A R I N I V I A F R A N C E S C O D U O D O

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SAN SERVOLO RIVIERA SANTA MARIA ELISABETTA V I A F R À M A U R O

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VICOLO ZENO Tempio Votivo Della Pace Di Venezia V I A PA O L O E R I Z Z O VIA NEGROPONTE

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V I A D O G E M I C H I E L LLO A E G L I S A B E T TA

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D A L M A Z I A A VI LIDO DI VENEZIA V I A L O R E N Z O M A R C E L L O

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ISOLA DELLE ROSE

V AI P EI T R O B U R AT T I ONI

LLO V I A A N T O N I O L A M B E R T I Hotel Excelsior Venice

S. Antonio Di Padova VIA D. PIZZAMANO VIA SANDRO GA

V I A A N D R E A C A L M O NGOMARE GUGLIELMO MARC LU

V I A P. G A R Z O N I

V I A A . M O R O S I N I

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ISOLA SAN SPIRITO

RIVA BENEDETTO MARCELLO VIA ANTONIO VIVALDI

VIA SANDRO GALLO

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VIA SAN PIGAFETTA

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V I A A N D R E AVIA D ANICOLA A S O L A JENSON

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RIVIERA PASQUALI

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ISOLA POVEGLIA VIA ALVISOPOLI

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MALAMOCCO

VIA

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Carlton On The Grand Canal – Santa Croce 578 • C3 Villa Laguna – Via Sandro Gallo, 6 – (Lido) • Off Map ®

CITYYOUR Cavalletto & Doge Orselo – San Marco, 1107 (Sotoportego del Villa Pannonia – Via Doge Michiel, 48 – (Lido) • Off Map GUIDE

LIKE A SCENE FROM A MOVIE Cavalletto) • F4 GIFT IDEAS

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