Plan Your Trip 1 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Venice & the Veneto
“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Cristian Bonetto, Paula Hardy Contents
PlanPlan Your Your Trip Trip page 1 4
Welcome to Venice & the If You Like... ������������������� 18 Eating ���������������������������27 Veneto ������������������������������ 4 Month by Month ������������20 Drinking & Nightlife ���33 Venice’s Top 10 ���������������� 6 For Free ��������������������������22 Entertainment �������������37 What’s New �������������������� 13 With Kids ������������������������23 Shopping ����������������������41 Need to Know �����������������14 Tours �������������������������������25 Top Itineraries ����������������16
Explore Venice & the Veneto 44
Neighbourhoods at a San Polo & Murano, Burano & the Glance ����������������������������46 Santa Croce �������������������84 Northern Islands ����������147 San Marco ����������������������48 Cannaregio ������������������ 105 Day Trips from Dorsoduro �����������������������71 Castello �������������������������117 Venice �������������������������160 Giudecca, Lido & the Sleeping ���������������������186 Southern Islands ��������� 136
Understand Venice & the Veneto 199
Venice Today �������������� 200 Architecture ����������������� 215 The Fragile Lagoon �����237 History ��������������������������202 The Arts �����������������������225
Survival Guide 239
Transport �������������������� 240 Language ���������������������252 Directory A–Z ��������������246 Index ���������������������������� 260
Venice & the Veneto Maps 266 AXEL FASSIO / GETTY IMAGES © KIMBERLEY COOLE / GETTY IMAGES © s no & . ra A .
& 57 p117 no, Bu p147 Castello ra e Northern Island Vogalonga Vogalonga Torre Torre Mu p136 Take partTake in this th
Ca’ Rezzonico Islands ecca, Lido A mansion full of
e Southern 154 76 th . masterpieces (above) p festive rowing race (right) p Dell’Orologio timepiece 15th-century (left) p
LONELY PLANET / GETTY IMAGES © Giud o rc e n Ma p48 & oc Sa egio p84 n Polo nta Cr Sa p105 Sa o ur Cannar p71 Dorsod ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 16
Top Itineraries
Day One Day Two
San Marco (p48) San Polo & Santa Croce (p84) M Begin your day in prison on the M Kick off day two with a crash course Secret Passages tour of the Palazzo in local surf and turf at produce- Ducale, then break for espresso at the coun- packed Rialto market, side-stepping it to ter of Caffè Lavena before the Byzantine Drogheria Mascari for gourmet pantry blitz of golden mosaics inside Basilica di fillers and regional wines, and to All’Arco San Marco. Browse boutique-lined back- for a cheeky morning prosecco. Boutiques streets to Museo Fortuny, the palace fash- and artisan studios punctuate your way to ion house whose goddess-style gowns freed Campo San Rocco, home to Gothic showoff I women from corsets. Frari and its sunny Titian altarpiece. Once admired, slip into Scuola Grande di San Lunch Perfect prosciutto above a Rocco for prime-time-drama Tintorettos. cinema at DOK Dall’Ava LP26 (p64). Lunch Market-fresh bites and impec- Dorsoduro (p71) cable wines at vibrant Estro (p81). Pause atop wooden Ponte R dell’Accademia for Grand Canal Dorsoduro (p71) photo ops, then surrender to timeless drama Explore the modern art that caused that no camera can convey inside Gallerie R uproars and defined the 20th century dell’Accademia. Wander past Squero di at the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, and San Trovaso to glimpse gondolas under contrast it with works that push contempo- construction, then bask in the reflected rary buttons at Punta della Dogana. Duck glory of Palladio’s Il Redentore along into Baldassare Longhena’s domed Chiesa waterfront Zattere. Stop at tiny Chiesa di Santa Maria della Salute for blushing di San Sebastian, packed with Veroneses, Titians and legendary curative powers, then then hop between artisan boutiques along cross the Grand Canal on Venice’s only Calle Lunga San Barnaba before ‘spritz wooden bridge, Ponte dell’Accademia. o’clock’ (cocktail hour) in Campo Santa Margherita. Dinner Superlative Venetian cuisine at Trattoria e Bacaro da Fiore (p65). Dinner Swoon over seasonal, succulent flavours at Ristorante La Bitta (p79). San Marco (p48) The hottest ticket in town during Dorsoduro (p71) N opera season is at La Fenice, but Leap back into the 1700s at nearby classical-music fans shouldn’t miss Vivaldi N Scuola Grande dei Carmini, the evoc- played with contemporary verve by Inter- ative setting for costumed classical concerts preti Veneziani. by Musica in Maschera. Alternatively, end the night on a saxy note at modern veteran Venice Jazz Club. 17 PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN T
Day Three Day Four op I ti n Castello (p117) Murano, Burano & the Northern M Stroll Riva degli Schiavoni for Islands (p147) eraries views across the lagoon to Pallad- M Make your lagoon getaway on a io’s San Giorgio Maggiore. See how Car- vaporetto bound for Technicolor paccio’s sprightly saints light up a room at Burano and green-and-gold Torcello. Fol- Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni, low the sheep trail to Torcello’s Byzantine then seek out Castello’s hidden wonder: Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta, Chiesa di San Francesco della Vigna. where the apse’s golden Madonna calmly Get stared down by statues atop Ospedal- stares down the blue devils opposite. Catch etto on your way to Gothic Zanipolo, the boat back to Burano to admire extreme home to 25 marble doges. The Renaissance home-design colour schemes and hand- awaits two bridges away at Chiesa di made lace at Museo del Merletto. Santa Maria dei Miracoli, a polychrome marble miracle made from Basilica di San Lunch Sunny Mazzorbo vineyards and Marco’s leftovers. inspired cuisine at Venissa (p157).
Lunch Housemade pasta lures gondo- lieri at Osteria Ruga di Jaffa (p130). Murano, Burano & the Northern Islands (p147); Giudecca, Lido & the Southern Islands (p136) Cannaregio (p105) Take in the fiery passions of glass Wander serene fondamente (canal R artisans at Murano’s legendary R banks) past statue sentries ringing fornaci (furnaces), and see their finest mo- Campo dei Mori to reach Chiesa della ments showcased at the fabulously reno- Madonna dell’Orto, the neighbourhood vated Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum). Gothic church Tintoretto pimped with After Murano showrooms close, hop the masterpieces. Tour the Ghetto’s newly vaporetto to Giudecca for some spa-loving renovated synagogues and the restored at the Bauer Palladio and unbeatable historic pawnshop, Banco Rosso, until Dinner Wine and dine with artists and Dinner Inventive Venetian cuisine celebrities at Trattoria Altanella (p142). beside the canal at Da Rioba (p112).
views of San Marco glittering across glassy Venice’s happiest hours beckon across the waters. bridge at Al Timon.
San Marco (p48) Celebrate your triumphant tour of N the lagoon with a prosecco toast ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 266 Venice & the Veneto Maps Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) S-Bahn/Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Mudflat Cafe Train station/Railway Park/Forest Tram Entertainment Tube station Sight (Building) Entertainment U-Bahn/Underground station Sportsground Other Transport Shopping Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book 1 MAP INDEX
1 San Marco (p268) Sacca D Ð"10 Serenella MURANO Burano & 2 Dorsoduro (p272) Torcello (7.5km); le San Polo & Isola di a ni Mazzorbo (7.5km) 3 Can ra San Secondo Ma Santa Croce (p274) Ð"9 dei P ale delle N o Can e anale avi 4 West of Santa Croce (p277) n Sacch C te delle d e 5 Cannaregio (p278) l D la Ð"5 Isola L ib di San Sant'Erasmo (1km) 6 Castello (p280) e rt CANNAREGIO F Michele à ond Ca 7 Giudecca (p283) a na m le Isola del Parco e d nt e 8 Lido di Venezia (p284) Savorgnan e l Tronchetto N le u G o Murano (p285) C ra Ð"3 v 9 SANTA a n e Ð"4 n d a CROCE l Ð"6 Idroscalo 10 Burano & Torcello (p286) Sant'Andrea
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05 m 00 NOTES AOur beat-up Story old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Our Writers Cristian Bonetto Plan Your Trip, Neighbourhoods at a Glance, Dorsoduro, San Polo & Santa Croce, Day Trips from Venice, Venice Today, Architecture, The Arts Venice and the Veneto feel very much like home to Cristian Bonetto. The travel writer’s father was born and raised in the region and Cristian has no shortage of cugini (cousins) scattered between the Venetian Lagoon and Dolomites. Add to this a love of Palladian architecture, grappa and bawdy Venetian humour and the appeal becomes even clearer. The former TV scriptwriter has been writing about Italy for over a decade, his musings appearing in magazines and newspapers around the world. To date, Cristian has contrib- uted to over 30 Lonely Planet guides, including Italy, Naples, Pompeii & the Amalfi Coast, New York City, Denmark, Scandinavia and Singapore. You can follow Cristian’s adventures on Twitter (@CristianBonetto) and on Instagram (rexcat75). Cristian also contributed to the Sleeping chapter.
Paula Hardy San Marco, Cannaregio, Castello, Giudecca, Lido & the Southern Islands, Murano, Burano & the Northern Islands, History, The Fragile Lagoon, Transport, Directory From Lido beaches to annual Biennales and spritz-fuelled bacari, Paula has contributed to Lonely Planet’s Italian guides for over 15 years, including previous editions of Venice & the Veneto, Pocket Milan & the Lakes, The Italian Lakes, Sicily and Sardinia. When she’s not scooting around the bel paese, she writes for a variety of travel publications and websites. Currently she divides her time between London, Italy and Morocco, and tweets her finds @paula6hardy. Paula also wrote the Need To Know and Tours chapters, and contributed to the Sleeping chapter.
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