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Iroquois Women and the Politics of Consumer Civility, 1614-1860

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Iroquois Women and the Politics of Consumer Civility, 1614-1860 SHIRTS POWDERED RED: IROQUOIS WOMEN AND THE POLITICS OF CONSUMER CIVILITY, 1614-1860 A Dissertation Presented to the Faculty of the Graduate School of Cornell University in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree of Doctor of Philosophy by Maeve E. Kane August 2014 © 2014 Maeve Kane SHIRTS POWDERED RED: IROQUOIS WOMEN AND THE POLITICS OF CONSUMER CIVILITY, 1614-1860 Maeve Kane, PhD Cornell University 2014 Female consumers seem familiar to the point of stereotype, but the shopping Indian is unexpected. Consumer culture has been constructed as antithetical to the pre-modern, natural and fictional idealized Indian. Iroquois women in the seventeenth, eighteenth and nineteenth centuries purchased many of the same clothes and fabrics as contemporary non-indigenous consumers, but transformed them in evolving ways that asserted indigenous sovereignty, traditional values and cultural strength. In the nineteenth century reservation period, both non- indigenous “reformers” and Iroquois leaders focused on women's labor and purchasing choices as the heart of Iroquois self-definition: to change women's work was to change the nation. I argue that Iroquois women's consumer choices played a pivotal role in shaping their nations' engagement with expanding colonial settlements, in preserving distinct tribal identities in the face of religious and political pressure, and in crafting a modern indigenous community with traditional values. This project begins with a shirt and ends with a dress—the shirt bought in the seventeenth century by a woman who minimized her daily work load by purchasing clothing rather than making it, and the dress made two hundred years later by a woman who attended college and argued that the best way for Iroquois people to preserve the remainder of their lands was to show Americans how modern Iroquois traditions were. Iroquois spatial mobility and control of their territories made sources of trade goods easily accessible without allowing European traders unsupervised access to Iroquois homelands. Unlike many other eastern Native groups, the Iroquois were able to maintain the integrity of their home territories well into the eighteenth century and negated settler attempts to coerce change in their communities through education and conversion, instead strategically inviting and directing change in ways to help maintain their sovereignty. BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH Maeve Kane graduated from Macalester College in 2008 with a double major in History and Linguistics summa cum laude with honors. In 2010, she attained a Master's of Arts in American History and advanced to candidacy in the Cornell University Department of History. In fall 2014 Maeve will join the faculty of the Department of History at the State University of New York at Albany as an Assistant Professor of early American economic history. Kane- iii ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS This dissertation is the product of the generosity of many without whom it would not have come to fruition. Beyond the Cornell University History, Anthropology, and American Studies Departments and Graduate School, my research was generously supported by the Newberry Library, the Huntington Library, the Historical Society of Pennsylvania, the David Library of the American Revolution and the New York State Archives. Staff at the Newberry Library, the Clements Library, the Huntington Library, the Albany Institute of History and Art, the McCord Museum, the Rochester Museum and Science Center, the New York Historical Society, the Wisconsin Historical Society, SUNY Rochester, SUNY Albany and the New York State Archives have my thanks, especially the staff at Old Fort Johnson who made digital copies of documents for me when the originals were unavailable during the 2011 floods. Commenters at the Cornell History Department Colloquium, the McNeil Center Works- in-Progress Seminar, the Library Company Fellows' Colloquium, the Newberry Library's Consortium for American Indian Studies Summer Seminar, and presentations at the Organization of American Historians, the American Historical Association, the Society for Ethnohistory, the Conference for Iroquois Studies and the Native American and Indigenous Studies Association annual meetings have provided helpful feedback on various portions of this project. Faculty at Cornell including Aaron Sachs, Robert Travers and Duane Corpis helped shape this project in important ways from the beginning and I appreciate the support of the department as a whole. Faculty at other institutions including Jean O'Brien, Scott Stevens and Al Lacson have provided welcome advice and comments at different stages. My dissertation committee has shepherded this project into becoming a much broader, Kane- iv and hopefully more interesting, project than the one I originally envisioned, and for that I'm grateful. My thanks to Mary Beth Norton for her incisive comments and guidance in connecting my work to broader issues in the field. Rachel Weil has my thanks for her support, thoughtful advice, and good counsel when it mattered. Kurt Jordan guided my first publication to press and reassured me that I chose correctly in becoming a historian and not an archaeologist. Most of all, thank you to my advisor Jon Parmenter, whose practical advice and perspective on academe kept things manageable. Thank you all for your confidence, support, and hard questions, and thank you Jon for helping me figure out what kind of scholar I want to be and how to get there. Members of the Cornell graduate school community and my writing groups have my thanks for making the experience not just bearable, but also enjoyable (mostly). Nicole Maskiell, Jacqueline Reynoso, Abi Fisher, Catherine Biba, Josi Ward, Rebecca Tally, and Daegan Miller generously offered their time, advice and good cheer through many drafts of many things. Amy Kohout, Kate Horning and Mari Crabtree have my especial thanks for good company, good food, commiseration, support and many pleasant afternoons spent on Cayuga Lake. This wouldn't have been the same project or even a dissertation at all without them. My parents and my partner's parents have been unfailingly supportive through the entire process: thank you Mom, Dad, Pam and Jack for the confidence that grad school was a good decision, even at times when I wasn't so sure. Most of all, I'd like to thank my partner James, who didn't know quite what he was getting into when I said I'd been accepted at Cornell the day before our first date, but who stuck around anyway and even wants to move Albany despite the car we sacrificed to I-90 there one very snowy night on our way to the archives. Kane- v TABLE OF CONTENTS Biographical Sketch iii Acknowledgements iv List of Figures vii List of Tables viii Introduction 1 Chapter One 24 Four Hands of Long Cloth: Labor and Engagement with the Atlantic World of Goods, 1550-1700 Chapter Two 55 A Lace'd Coat Unbuttoned: Gender Performance, Cultural Entanglement and European Anxieties, 1650-1750 Chapter Three 100 So Prittily Ingaged in Their Studies: Gendered and Racialized Labor in the Education of Civility 1750-1770 Chapter Four 147 For Want of a Sufficiency: War, Conversion Efforts and Gendered Work in the Early Reservation Period, 1770-1810 Chapter Five 183 We Are Real Indians in Our Everys: The Parker Family, Lewis Henry Morgan and Making a Modern Traditionality, 1810-1860 Conclusion 230 Bibliography 237 Kane- vi List of Figures 1. Anonymous Mohawk Woman 5 2. “Sa Ga Yeath Qua Pieth Ton, King of the Maquas.” circa 1710, Jan Verelst 64 3. “Tee Yee Neen Ho Ga Row, Emperor of the Six Nations.” circa 1710, Jan Verelst 65 4. Les Lacs du Canada et Nouvelle Angleterre, Robert du Vaugondy Atlas Portratif. 1749 103 5. Fonda-Barclay Social Network 107 6. Caroline Parker Mountpleasant, 1850 216 7. Mohawk overdress circa 1840-1860 222 8. Mohawk overdress circa 1845-1855 222 9. Informal English woman's day dress circa 1810 225 Kane- vii List of Tables 1. Blanket Prices in Beaver, 1637-1700 33 2. Retail Prices of Clothing, 1680-1710 34 3. Beaver Exports During Times of War and Disease, 1600-1700 38 4. Relative Importance of Peltry in Purchases, 1679-1690 47 5. Purchasing Power by Nation, 1679-1690 50 6. Relative Purchasing Power by Nation, 1697-1724 52 7. Relative Importance of Peltry in Purchases, 1697-1724 52 8. Individuals in the Wendell Account Book, 1697-1724 78 9. Average Quantity of Goods Purchased Per Person by Gender and Nation, 1697-1724 78 10. Categories of Goods as Percent of Total Purchase, 1679-1690 79 11. Categories of Goods as Percent of Total Purchase, 1697-1724 79 12. Iroquois Travel to Albany, 1697-1724 83 13. Value of Beaver Exported from New York Valued in British Pounds, 1700-1770 113 14. Jelles Fonda Credit Payments, 1758-1763 and 1766-1775 175 Kane- viii Shirts Powdered Red: Iroquois Women and the Politics of Consumer Civility, 1600-1850 Introduction In 1690, an Onondaga woman named Osissijenejo and her husband Nachssasija traveled to Albany.1 They brought with them an otter pelt that would later go on to England, the Germanies or Muscovy. In Onondaga country, the otter pelt could have been used alone as a bag, or it could have been combined with many other small pelts to make a warm winter covering. In Albany in 1690, the otter pelt could become a shirt, a kettle, lead shot or fabric. It could be made into garments that needed more time and more hides than a single otter to make, or into consumer luxuries and symbolically charged conduits of power. In Albany, one animal skin could be exchanged for an expanding global market of consumer
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