Foreword by the President

As I write, I have enjoyed five excellent meets since assuming the Presidency. My thanks to all concerned. This year's Glen Etive meet was so popular that I have changed my mind and we will have a 25th Inbhir Fhaolain meet next year, but in March! Unfortunately, we have recently lost several valued members to the grim reaper. The obituaries appear elsewhere in this issue, but I want to pay a personal tribute to the late Bill Woodward. Bill was a genuine, and hard, all-rounder who, especially in the sixties and seventies spent a lot of time with the YRC and with individual members, including myself, both at home and in far flung places. His attitude to life was very laid-back and the words of the old song could almost have been written about Bill... "I'm a rambler, I'm a gambler, I'm a long way from home, and ifyou don't like me then leave me alone. I'll eat when I'm hungry, I'll drink: when I'm dry and if 'moonshine' don't kill me I'll live 'til I die."

©l999 Yorkshire Ramblers' Club

Secretary - Gordon Humphreys, Old Hall Cottage, Yealand Conyers, Carnforth, Lancashire LA5 9SJ

Editor - Michael Smith, 80 Towngate Road, Worrall, Sheffield, South Yorkshire S35 OAR

The opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the YR.C nor its Officers.

The YRC Bulletin Summer 1999

NGR SD705769 Catamite Hole, Surveyed by: G.Salmon, East Kingsdale B.Bensley and ARenton Length: 440m Depth: 49m Ged Campion © 1996 YRC BCRA Grade 3 Work on Catamite Hole started p4 approximately three years ago, in 1996, following preliminary investigations of the t area between Crescent Pot and King Pot N where there was significant drainage but virtually no known cave passage. The entrance to Catamite Hole is in a small shake hole where a stream flows in wet weather. A narrow entrance with a large wedged gritstone boulder drops 6m onto boulders in a rift. The rift descends to a 3m climb and boulder floor at the bottom, marking the extent ofthe previous exploration. However, an encouraging draught blowing lOm between the boulders seemed a good enough reason to extend the cave here. Over the next couple of months considerable work went into sinking a 4m shaft through loose material. Progress became increasingly encouraging as the noise of a stream bubbling beneath could be clearly heard in wet weather. On a cold December day when the Dales were plastered with fresh snow and the slopes of Braida Garth were avalanching, a breakthrough was made. The removal of wedged boulders at the foot of the shaft revealed a short crawl which opened on to a 4m pitch descending into a fault chamber full of boulders. The chamber sloped away to the head of a further pitch dropping down a vertical boulder and mud consolidated wall. At the bottom the passage appeared blocked but a perfectly formed 2m brown cylindrical shaft, later to be christened the chocolate speedway, seemed to offer some hope ofpenetrating the choke below. Returning the following weekend with lifting tackle three large boulders were removed and a gaping space revealed, we slid down an .~ontinues ,;~.. 10m unstable boulder slope into an impressive continues I' \ stream chamber. 35m Sword ofDamocles

The YRC Bulletin 3 Summer 1999 Considerably encouraged we ventured low bedding, round a corner and upstream where pristine, delicate promptly disappeared into a slot. straws were in abundance. An inlet Work at the end of the cave has joined the mainstream before it was continued but the site is particularly necessary to crawl to avoid breaking dismal though the draught continues any formations. After 20m crawling to be encouraging. and a, squeeze over a false floor- we climbed up into a small aven to the With the discovery of the East head of a 3m pitch. Below the passage Kingsdale Master Cave to the north bifurcated both leads becoming too and developments in Dale Barn to the narrow after 35m and IOm south, much potential would seem to respectively. exist around the Lords Top area. M. Cascoyne in 1973 postulated that The downstream end of the cave owing to the limited surface run-offon however was disappointing - the East Kingsdale few sizeable caves passage after only a few metres were accessible. Much drainage diminished to a low bedding where the consists of slow seepage from bogs stream flowed tantalisingly on. The and glacial till resulting in narrow and next few weekends were spent often impenetrable cave passages clearing rocks and silt out of the developing, for example Broken crawl. Hard work in cold wet Finger Pot and the entrance series to conditions. The bedding was so low in Crescent Pot. Nevertheless, where places it was difficult to see what was these narrow vadose fissures meet being excavated. At last, however, the faults or major joints - the results can passage height increased marginally be spectacular, for example Growling allowing just enough room to edge Hole and Spectacle Pot. through and clear the obstruction from the other side. After crawling in the Catamite Hole bears a close stream around a few bends we resemblance to Crescent Pot and may encountered an .inlet carrying a well form one ofits main tributaries ­ sizeable flow. though dye testing has as yet proved inconclusive. The upstream section of Downstream a further constriction Catamite goes some way to explaining halted progress - a small rock pillar the drainage of the surrounding area. blocking the passage. This was Short Cave, Little Demon Pot and removed the following weekend to Thunder Thighs Hole would appear to reveal yet another constriction in the be feeder streams. To date 400m of stream, the Penny Slot where the passage have been discovered to a passage assumed a particularly depth of40m hydrophobic character. Once through this, the passage The team consisted of Ged Campion, enlarged in classic keyhole profile, Bruce Bensley, Graham Salmon, some sections reminiscent of Crescent Shaun Penny, Eddy Edkins and Pot. After 3m the stream returned to Alistair Renton. low bedding and an oxbow tube had to be unblocked to give access to more crawling on the other side. An A version of this article appeared in awkward squeeze gave way to a 5m Caves & Caving, Summer 1998 pitch and standing room The stream however flowed miserably on into a

TIle YRC Bulletin 4 Summer 1999 Robert M. Brench, Tailors", and is embellished with a photograph of the Alum Pot Alum Pot, and the plantation. Inside, the photographs Fifty Shilling Tailors: follow the progress of "Mr. X." from the surface to the terminal sump. The 1935 photographs are unremarkable; but the text is the typical hyperbole of the S.A. Craven advertising business: The fourth decade ofthis century was Alum Pot on the Yorkshire Moors, not a prosperous time for most people 297 feet deep & England's most in England; and if extra money could spectacular pot-hole is to be the scene be earned on the side, so much for the ofthe greatest & most daring test ever better. One such aspiring carried out by any Tailor. Mr. .x; entrepreneur was the late Robert M. seen in the right foreground wearing Brench of 36 Barrowby Avenue, a STOCK 50/- suit, is to make the Austhorpe, Leeds, a founder member complete descent through all the of the Leeds Cave Club which passages. What will be the result; flourished from 1930 until 19391. will the suit stand the terrific Leeds at that time was the centre of gruelling it will receive? We think so! the ready-to-wear clothing industry. ... How will this stock suit stand the One of the retailers was Prices, strain? ... Tailors, Ltd. of Cardigan Crescent, Mr. X. is then shewn descending a Kirkstall Road, Leeds 4. It traded ladder. under the name, "The Fifty Shilling Tailors", because it sold suits for 156 wooden rungs before he can rest; £2/10/0, or £2.50 in modem currency. all rubbing against his suit while the rough rock ledges seen at the top Brench thought that a suitable have bumped & battered him & advertising gimmick, and test of the covered one side ofhim with slime & fifty shilling suit, would be to wear it mud. This mighty rock crevice has to the bottom of Alum Pot and back, claimed our man - he can stand the dry clean it afterwards, and publicise strain but will our suit? We shall the predictable minimal damage. see... Accordingly he took his camera into Mr. X. has now landed on the Ledge, Alum Pot and took a series of about 130 feet from the surface. photographs of cavers in the standard dress ofthe day. He then prepared an Immediately on the right the ladder album of 18 ofthese photographs and follows on over the next 70feet ofthis added the advertising copy. awful gulf. In the corner can be seen the waterfall, now split up into spray The album is 177mm high x 280mm in its long descent. It damps the wide with six pages, and front & back clothes but not the spirits of those on covers. The front cover is entitled, the Ledge. Our suit seems to have 11Alum Pot & The Fifty Shilling lost its 'Showroom Finish' but we can hardly see it now for mud & water. We are hoping it will pull through 1 Craven S.A. (1976) "The Leeds allright. Cave Club 1930 - 1939" J. Craven Pothole Club 2. 217 - 220.

The YRC Bulletin 5 Summer 1999

would be available on request at any branch of the Fifty Shilling Tailors. On 25 June 1935 Brench offered the portfolio and text to Prices, Tailors, Ltd. The photographs would cost £3/11/6 (£3.58) each, or £64­ /7/0 (£64.35) the lot; and Price's "agents would handle the The top of the main ladder space in the usual way". Three days later a Director of Prices, Tailors He then descends to the bottom ofthe replied, declining the offer. Main Shaft. There is in the letter no indication of He has to come on down the steps of the reason for the refusal. Perhaps the the cascade over which the water is hyperbole was too exaggerated for the running so he'll get another wetting. company. On the other hand the The suit is nearly at the end ofits test photographs, while good, are not & is still going strong. Mud, sludge, outstanding. Another possibilityis the rough rock & water have spoilt its apparent high asking price for the looks but we are not dismayed photographs - each one would cost more than the suit which would be The model has now reached the sump. promoted! The stream he has followed has been joined by a mighty thundering Acknowledgement: waterfall just behind & the two I am grateful to the late R. M. Brench Esq. streams have joined & flow into this for his reminiscences and for the gift of the pool. Back to daylight now & let's see album. what the suit looks like when it has been to the cleaners. The plan then was to take the suit to Crocketts Cleaners who, presumably, would restore it to its original pristine condition with the appropriate certificates ofauthenticity. It seems that the photographs and text would be split into several consecutive parts for serial advertisements, and that a copy of the complete album

The YRC Bulletin 7 Summer 1999 Yorkshire Ramblers at Ingleborough Cave as Recorded in the Ingleborough Cave Visitors' Book S.A~ Craven

Ingleborough Cave, about 2~ km. .J! . /, .x.'C'J I ;,/. if· .. l>,-JJ.,4/Y b . ~.r"p.e..-r 71 .!. R. ' c . north of Clapham, is well known to ___....!!: ft~ ~~;.:.::'!!:::::1i!.=;7=1)"'::::·, ="'="=.,"=:c#::='(}(),="'=s.'-- _ every member of the YRC. It was G...4.~.~~'e::~d!~~ ~ discovered illi Septem ber 1837w hen ,~:.,r ./ C .. .' estate workers broke the stalagmite I.": L/ ~i' +.~k<_ ~ y..:.....tf~c barrier at the entrance, thereby t.t... t:1 * exposing about three-quarters ~i:; /J :(', 'L. ;;:::, / ~l' Cl ~ • kilometre of stream passage which t f,.7!f.1 H·Cff./'f1.. (7\..C4.·.f';.··-{t,. (./..~~:~!.. ~£.,.. ~in0:t~h·stesn:~ort~hee·~rni~epa~e~~elu~ePsst,enan~:dveWdtai;st ~,:',,;' ='::"'--41~~;;;~~7!::;;;:--:'-i£~;i':f~~£'~~':~:d~ •..·:.:.;.·.:.:I.;.:·· : ~ M!WOK l'" AEI&;WEY ,f::I.Z 1', ,-..,u!.' I'd )'11" 8A't:7iW~. ~~e~:' ,7~~r~~:?~:~ northern cave to be .. ~ ~M~~~:=: The first custodian ofthe Cave was Josiah Harrison, who held office until AUTOGRAPHS his death in 1888. He is said to have AND kept a visitors' book', but its location QUOTATIONS is unknown. Written for H. HARRISON, Josiah Harrison's grandson, Henry Clapham, Harrison, was appointed custodian of Yorks. the Cave in 1888, at the young age of 22 years' He kept two complementary visitors' books, both of which have Few of the signatures are dated. survived. There are 24 blank sheets, followed by The major book is 19·5 x 16·0 cm, 70 pages autographed on one side of bound in red quarter leather and the paper, and a further 64 blank corners. On the outside cover has pages. been tooled in gold: The reason for this unused paper remains a mystery, especially as there is another, smaller and cheaper, paper­ back booklet in which some of the 1 Farrer J.W. (1849) Quart. J. Geol. Soc. autographs have been repeated. This Lond. Vol.S. 49 - 51. . booklet is 17'8 x 11·2 cm with 12

2 MitcheU A. & MeUor D.(C.) (1972) pages autographed on both sides of J.Craven Pothole Club Vol.4.(6), 326. the paper. All these signatures are

3 West Yorkshire Pioneer 2 Apr. 1937 p. dated. 11.

The YRC Bulletin 8 Stunmer 1999 Of the over four hundred autographs Richard Hollett & Son of Sedbergh, 7 there are 42 ofmembers ofthe YRC., f ..om whom I bought them in 1973 . nine of which are reproduced here. The members may have signed the All 42 are transcribed below (in bold), book either when visiting the cave, or with Harrison's comments in standard on passing the entrance en route to font, and my comments in italics. The elsewhere on the southern slopes of absence of a spacer between the Ingleborough. The presence of signatures indicates that they are signatory members at Ingleborough consecutive, a point to be borne in Cave or elsewhere in the mind when attempting to date them neighbourhood is listed in the table"; Harrison maintained his book until his death on 16 December 1938 after nearly half a century of service', The paucity ofdates makes it impossible to date the commencement of the book. The earliest date is that ofProf G.A. Lebour of Sheffield University on 13 June 1899, but does not appear on the first page. This signature is on a separate piece of paper which has been glued into the book, suggesting that the album was acquired after Lebour's visit. On the other hand, Harrison may have simply mislaid the book. It is clear from the many blank spaces, and f ..om the smaller paperbook book, that the autographs were not written in chronological order. After Harrison's death in 1938, the autographs passed to the Lord of the Manor, Sydney James Farrer, who 5 died in December 1946 • Sometime thereafter the bookswere borrowed from his widow, Violet M.P. Farrer, by Eli Simpson of the British Speleological Association. Simpson failed to return thenr. After his death in 1962 they were acquired by Messrs.

4 Craven Herald 23 Dec. 1938 p. 7. 7 (Plant 1.) (1973) Craven Herald and (Skipton). Pioneer 13 July p. 6. 5 Anon. (1949) J. Yorkshire Ramblers' 8 Craven S.A. (1996) "A Speleological Club 1. (25), 253. Appreciation of the YRC on the

6 Letter dated 02 Dec. 1971 V.M.F. Occasion of its Centenary 1892 - 1992" Farrerto S.A. Craven. Yorkshire Rambler (6),32 - 45.

The YRC Bulletin 9 Summer 1999 Date Venue Signatory Members 14 Sep. 1895 Gaping Gill Ca1vert, Gray et a1 05 Oct. 1895 Jib Tunnel Bellhouse, et a1 Dec. 1895 Gaping Gill Booth et a1 May 1896 Gaping Gill Booth, Ca1vert, Gray, Scriven, Slingsby et a1 23 Aug. 1896 Ingleborough Cave Ca1vert et a1. 06 Sep. 1896 Ingleborough Cave Ca1vert, Gray et a1 29 May 1903 Gaping Gill Booth, Buckley, Brodrick, Constantine, Dwerryhouse, R.J. Farrer,Hill, Horn, Parsons, Puttrell et al June 1903 Ingleborough Cave Hill et a1 21 May 1904 Jockey Hole Booth, Brodrick, Buckley, Constantine, Hastings, Hill et a1 21 Aug. 1904 Rift Pot Booth, Brodrick, Buckley, Constantine, Hastings, Hill, Horn, Parsons, Scriven et a1 Apr. 1905 NewbyMoss Brodrick, Buckley, Hastings, Hill et a1 09 July 1905 Gaping Gill Booth, Buckley, Hastings, Horn, Parsons et a1 Summer 1905 Ingleborough Cave Hill et a1 05 June 1906 Gaping Gill Booth, Brodrick, Buckley, Constantine, Dwerryhouse, Hastings,Hill, Horn, Leach, Puttrell, Robinson, Slingsby et a1 28 July 1906 Gaping Gill Booth, Buckley, Constantine, Hastings et a1 18 May 1907 Gaping Gill Booth, Buckley, R.J. Farrer, Hastings, Horn, Leach, Robinson, Rule et al 21 Sep. 1907 Gaping Gill Booth, Buckley, Constantine, Hastings, Horn, Leach et a1 28 May 1909 Gaping Gill Barstow, Booth, Buckley, Collie, Horn, Roberts, Rule et a1 26 June 1909 Car Pot Brodrick & Rule July 1909 Car Pot Booth, Brodrick, Buckley, Hastings, Hill, Horn, Rule et a1 16 July 1909 Gaping Gill Horn, Parsons, Rule et a1 12 May 1910 Gaping Gill Barstow, Booth,Brodrick,Hastings,Ru1e,Seatree,Slingsby et a1 11 June 1910 Gaping Gill Booth, Brodrick, Robinson, Rule et a1 03 June 1911 Gaping Gill Brodrick, Hastings, Horn, Rule, et a1 25 May 1912 Gaping Gill Barstow, Brodrick, Buckley, Rule et a1 1912 & 1913 Ingleborough Cave Brodrick et a1 10 May 1913 Gaping Gill Booth, Brodrick, Hastings, Robinson, Rule et a1 June 1913 Foxholes Brodrick, Hill et a1 Aug. 1913 Foxholes Hill, Rule et a1 20 Sep. 1913 Ingleborough Cave Brodrick, Hill et al July 1914 Foxholes Brodrick, Hastings, Hill et al 22 May 1920 Gaping Gill Booth, Roberts, Robinson et al 1920 Disappointment (Unknown) 1920 Ingleborough Cave Roberts et a1 13 May 1921 Gaping Gill Buckley, Roberts et a1 06 June 1924 Gaping Gill Buckley, Horn, Roberts, Robinson, Seaman et al 04 June 1927 Gaping Gill Buckley, Horn, Roberts, Robinson, Seaman et a1 28 Aug. 1927 Gaping Gill Buckley, Horn, Roberts, Robinson, Seaman et al 03 Sep. 1927 Gaping Gill Buckley, Horn, Roberts, Robinson, Seaman et a1 11 Sep. 1927 Jockey Hole Roberts et al 26 May 1928 Gaping Gill (Unknown) 08 Mar. 1930 Ingleborough Cave Roberts et a1 27 Sep. 1930 Rift Pot (Unknown) 23 May 1931 Gaping Gill (Unknown) 15 May 1932 Gaping Gill Yates et a1. 02 June 1933 Gaping Gill (No signatory) 02 July 1933 Rift Pot Roberts, Yates et al 09 June 1935 Gaping Gill Leach et al June 1938 Gaping Gill Roberts et a1 The above comparison of the YRC. transcribed below, reveals only one members' attendance at meets, with correlation viz. that of Harold Yates the signatures in the Cave book who signed on 17 May 1932 during

The YRC Bulletin 10 Summer 1999 the annual Gaping Gill winch meet. Giant's Hall in summer 1912, and 9 Most of the autographs therefore continuedfurther in summer 1913 • remain undated. T.S. Booth Y.RC. Elected 1893; Committee 1896 -1899, 1902 -1905, 1909 -1913, 1915 - 1919,' Vice-President 1907 - 1090; President The Major Book: 1929 -1930; Life Member 1931; died J. Norman Collie. 1938. Dr. J. Norman Collie LL.D., F.R.S. Percy Robinson. Y.RC. University ofLondon. University College: Elected 1906; Committee 1915 - 1919; Professor of Organic Chemistry. Author Vice-President 1922 - 1924; Life Member of "Climbing in the Himalaya & other 1936; died 1948. Mountain Ranges." "Climbs & Ernest E. Roberts Y.Re. Exploration in the Canadian Rockies" [Hugh M. Stutfield & J. Norman Collie, HM. Inspector of Schools. F.R.S.] Elected 1908; Vice-President 1919 ­ Hon. Member 1909; died 1942. 1922; Hon. Editor 1920 - 1948; President 1923 - 1925; Life Member 1938; died 1960. Roberts was there in H. Yates Esq. Y.RC. 10 1920 . Elected 1928; Life Member 1963; died Cuthbert Hastings. Y.RC. 1979. Elected 1900; Committee 1905 - 1909, 1911 - 1919; Vice-President 1909 - 1911; H.H. Bellhouse Life Member 1931; died 1943. 2 Sep. 1937. F. Hawksworth Barstow, Y.RC. FounderMember 1892; Hon. Treasurer 1892 - 1893; Hon. Secretary 1893 ­ Elected 1908; Committee 1910 - 1913; 1898; President 1927 -1929; Life Life Member 1938; died 1955. Member 1931; died 1943. Fredrick Leach. Y.R.e. Elected 1892,' Hon. Secretary 1893­ Arthur Dwerryhouse D.Se., FoG.S., 1894; Committee 1894 -1896, 1906­ MRI.A. 1908, 1910 - 1911, 1913 -1919; Vice­ University Lecturer in Geology, Belfast. President 1908 -1910; President 1925 ­ [Late Leeds University.] 1927; Life Member 1931; died 1954. Elected 1904; resigned 1909. Will, Anderton Brigg. YRC. Editor. Mayor ofKeighley, 1912 to Trinity Will, Ceeil Slingsby. Y.Re. Coll: Camb. M.A. LL.M.. 1886. Called to the Bar, 1886. Hon. Member 1893; President 1893­ 1903; Vice-President 1903 -1908; Elected 1894; Hon. Editor 1909 - 1920; Committee 1905 - 1908,' died 1929. President 1919 -1922,~ Life Member 1931; died 1938. Harold Brodrick MA., F.G.S., Y.RC. Mayor of Southport, 1912 - 1913. 9 Hill C.A. (1912) "Clapham Cave" J. Elected 1903; Vice-President 1914­ YRC. VolA. 107 - 127. 1919; Life Member 1933; died 1946. Brodrick & Hill surveyed as far as 10 (Roberts E.B.) (1930) "Clapham Cave" J. YRC. Vo1.6. 78.

The YRC Bulletin 11 Summer 1999 Frank Constantine. Hon. Sec. Y.RC. Elected 1901; Committee 1903 - 1906, 1921 -1922, 1930 - 1931; Hon. Elected 1893; Hon. Secretary 1894­ Treasurer 1906 -1921; Vice-President 1920; Committee 1920 - 1921; Vice­ 1913 - 1915; President 1931 -1932; Life President 1921 - 1923; Life Member Member 1931; died 1954. 1931,'died 1948. B. Holden. Y.RC. W. Parsons. Y.R.e. (the Second). Elected 1913; Committee Principal of the Training College, 1921 - 1922; died 1946. Beckett's Park. Leeds. President of the Yorkshire Ramblers' Club 1912to 1915, Ralph F. Stobart Y.RC. Elected 1896; Committee 1897 - 1898, Elected 1910,' resigned 1932. 1900 - 1902, 1904 - 1906, 1907 -1910, Wm. Horace Albrecht. Y.RC. 1919 - 1920; Vice-President 1902 -1904; Hon. Member 1939,' died 1944. Elected 1909,'died 1942. Charles A. Hill. MA. MD. RC. J.A. Ormerod Y.RC. Y.RC. MR.C.S. L.RC.P. D.P.H. Elected 1905; resigned 1922. Honorary Physician Liverpool Consumption Hospital, Vice-President of C. Scriven Y.RC. the Yorkshire Ramblers' Club Captain of the 2nd. W. Yorks. Royal Elected 1903; Vice-President 1912 ­ Engineers. Volunteers. Captain 155th. 1914; died 1914. Brodrick & Hill Co.. Royal Defence Corps. 1914-17. surveyed as far as Giants Hall in summer 1912, and continuedfurther in Elected 1892; Committee 1892 - 1895, 11 summer 1913 . 1901 -1903; Hon. Treasurer 1895 ­ 1898,' Vice-President 1906 -1908,·Hon. Member 1923; Life member 1931; died Alex, Rule. MSc. Ph-D. Y.RC. 1938. Lecturer in Chemistry Liverpool University. James Anson Farrer Elected 1907; Vice-President 1910 ­ Educ: at Eton, [Five years pupil of Dr. 1912; President 1934 - 1936; Life Warre, at Eton.] Balliol Coll: Oxon. Member 1937; died 1960. 1st.c1. CL: Called to the Bar at Middle Temple. 20th. April 1875. lP. for J.H. Buckley Y.RC. Yorkshire. High Sheriff. 1897. Contested South Westmorland as Lib: 1892. & Swiss Villa, Victoria Road, Headingley. Skipton Div. ofYorks: 1895. (Born on the Hon. Librarian Yorkshire Ramblers Club. 24th. July 1849.) (Died at Ingleborough Died April 25th. 1932. Aged 60 years. on the 21st. June 1925.) Author of "The Elected 1901; Hon. Librarian 1903­ New Leviathan", "Paganism & 1924; Vice-President 1911 - 1913; Christianity", "Primitive Manners & Committee 1924 -1925, 1926 -1929; Customs", Military Manners & died 1932. Customs," "Books condemned to be burnt." etc: etc:. Arthur E. Horn Y.RC. Hon. Member 1912; died 1925. Reginald Farrer 11 Craven S.A. (1976) "The Yorkshire Speleological Association: Britain's first Educ: Private tutorship and at Balliol caving club" Brit. Caver Vo1.64. 27 ­ Coll: Oxon. F.R.M.S., J.P. for Yorkshire. 35. Contested the Ashford Div: of Kent as

The YRCBulletin 12 Summer 1999 Macedonian Caves Harvey Lomas In July 1998 I joined the Craven Pothole Club trip to the relatively new Republic of Macedonia, once part ofthe old Republic of Yugoslavia. We converted an old ambulance and, in true style, travelled the motorways across the expanses of France and Italy, through eventually arriving in Macedonia after three days. This account is based on the record in my diary. Matka were our hosts have an hotel We arrived on Monday, 20th July, have accommodated us all in a room, having driven across France, the it over looks great spires ofwhite rock whole of Italy to Brendesi, over to which rise out of lesser crags and Igomenetsa into northern Greece. I trees. People make trips up the side had not previously travelled to this ofthe fast flowing waters of the river part of Greece with its winding roads Treska to eat and drink at the over impressive mountains. The route restaurant, and to fish in the great took us very near Thessaloncia and pool that makes up the final feature through fertile plains to the before the dam, all of this is Macedonian border. overlooked by a small 13th century church which stands quietly amidst The Greeks were very annoyed that this man made location. we were going across to Macedonia, as one of our party called it, instead of In the evening there was a barbecue the F.Y.RM. the former Republic of with our hosts, wo 0 dsmoke, beer, Macedonia as they called the place. music, and cooked sheep's head were Across the border and a man waited to our delight, this lasted until well dressed in a white coat, asking 5DM into the early hours for the privilege of driving through his Wed, 22 July, Matka: We have just horrible disinfection trough. There returned from Skopye and a very hot was no problem with our access to afternoon travelling round the town Macedonia, instantly the standard of doing some souvenir shopping. Why the infrastructure had gone down and do we do it? Especially in the heat of the lack of good signs on the roads the afternoon when all the shops are was noticeable especially to Skopye. quite rightly shut because of this We arrived at Matka near to sunset, it baking heat. is an hydroelectric station our place of In the morning we explored a cave residence is on the side ofthe lake in some twelve kilometres to the north an attractively narrow gorge. The west of Skopye. We drove through caves are accessed by means of a boat villages that were rustic in appearance, ride up the Matka Gorge. but well lived in. Rubble stands in mounds and jobs lie there waiting to

The YRC Bulletin 13 Summer 1999 be completed. Typically a wall half had no water except the trough to built, holes in the road that some day wash in. Our gear was soon dried in may get filled in with stone. Old men, the sun along with our throats. sat on donkeys, stared at us as we The cave, near Rasce, was Donna breezed through the street of a Duca cave, named after a girl shot by thousandjobs in progress out to open the Germans after they found her country. hiding in the entrance. What she was The clouds would not shield us fi..om supposed to be guilty of was not the mid-morning sun, as we changed mentioned by our guides. in a curious dugout leading to a pool Tuesday: We took the boat up to the of water at the end. What fed the caves. The highest is Ubava Cave, the pool was a mystery The dugout was middle one is Krshtalna Cave and the in the side of a dried up river. The lowest, Vrelo Cave. All three caves cave was up on the side of the are well decorated, each being at channel, it was a series of dry different heights up the hill side. The chambers with a black coating ofmud. middle one started with a greasy mud Each chamber being connected by slope and was very well filled with crawls followed by climbs up and formations. I forgot my socks so my down through a phreatic maze. We all wellies were uncontrollable and said this was crawling we had climbing unsafe. The bottom cave expected to leave behind in Britain. was the shortest with a stairway But still we pressed on to a conclusion leading to a lake which All said of chokes and impenetrable rifts, The connected to the water filled gorge whole trip took two hours and our outside. The backed up waters guide said the cave was 500m long. seemed to linger idly under the steep The cave having this thick coating of cragged wall which climbed to 300m. black mud, we were now covered and The gorge cuts through the mountains some 14km with a hydrolake about \", Serbia / 5kmlong.

<, Kosovo J ~'.~-- ''''-.'-"''~ ./ Thursday: Our vehicle needs a repair to the front drive shaft oil seal, Andy <:: and Pete have gone to Skopye and have it seen to. We are leaving Matka Rasoe~ Skopye for three days to explore another area ~ centred in the village of Slatina, though it is 100km away through a Matka "­ military zone. All last night asked for Hydroelectric our passport details. I must say the Station trouble in Kosvo does not seemed to bother the people here who seem take \ River sides along ethnic lines. I Tresca \1:1 Kicevo ? This morning we spend washing our l Sla~ina ) ...... _J gear fi..om yesterday and generally have a rest.

J\rrt'HA Then leave Skopye late afternoon to Peschna Cave drive to the mountains. . What followed was a awesome descent

The YRC Bulletin 14 Summer 1999 down to the valley base, bend after handshaking, with his friend and bend, the Kosziac valley revealed its further prolonged good-byes. We splendours. However our brakes have returned from a village where overheated and progress slowed as we I'm afraid we drank into the late allowed them to cool. We drove two afternoon. Earlier we had climbed a hours up a track as the night advanced hillside in blistering heat up a track, and the valley fell into darkness. Our through heavy thickets to a small rift host said lOkm more, I feared for the entrance. return journey as our vehicle was Momicek Cave was one large passage being stretched to its limits. with formations and the odd pool, our En-route we stopped briefly in the hosts, some differently not equipped mountains where some women were for the caving. A reporter who had gathered at a communal water tap descended the entrance pitch of five filling their containers. It struck me metres conducted an interview with that this was Europe and such sights our hosts, whilst we ourselves crawl were a complete contrast the dynamic and climb over every flowstone urban types we had seen talking into cascade, avon, and calcite choke in the mobile phones in the restaurants of 200m of the cave. The cave was Skopye. about 20m high and slightly wider. The reporter's exit from the cave was We did reach a good road but by then the drive had taken the enthusiasm out not very dignified as he was yanked of us. The leading vehicle drove out by ropes whilst our hosts barked across a bridge of dried flaking planks conflicting instructions to the surface. loosely laid over two substantial Andy has just said that a 25m pitch timbers. The it was our turn and we has been discovered so he and a team all got out to allow to lighten the are setting off to investigate. going. Our destination was an old Meanwhile, on the way back from the school house. cave, we visited a village situated to This evening we have been round a one side at the foot of the camp fire lit by our hosts outside an mountainside. A beautiful resurgence old school house that will be our delivered clear waters to the nearby headquarters for the next four days. river Tresca. The streets ofthe village Friday: A house martin woke me by were of earth and dust while a small flying round in circles above me for cool stream had been diverted from five minutes. By daylight we can see the resurgence through the rambling that our valley is tree-lined with little passageways. All of this was over- . looked by a flaking picture of Tito, streams running just below our place. The trees are full offruits of all kinds, stuck to the mud-coated wood-lattice I saw plums and hazel nuts scattered wall of a house, with, his sideways on the ground. The sky is cloudless glance and piercing eyes surveying us so no doubt the day will be hot. all. Two elderly ladies of miniature It seemed that a ~acedonian cannot pass a fellow countryman especially if proportions dressed in black and grey they are sheltering under a tree from clothes and head scarves had faces the hot sunlight and not pass the time finely woven with lines. They lingered of day and talk at length with great close while we drank beer, one puffed exuberance followed by very much on a cigarette and the other doodled in

The YRC Bulletin 15 Summer 1999 the earth with her stick occasionally reaching the top it became too tight. I lifting up her eyes to gaze at us. Their wondered ifthis really was the way we few sheep pulled vegetation from the had descended into the rift. It could verges and chewed while we not have been so I reversed down attempted to drink the local house­ about ten feet to find a window into a come-shop out ofbeer. parallel shaft and than pulled the unwilling ladder across. Wriggling The long hot afternoon was spent upwards, I chose wider sections to amidst pleasant village people, sitting allow progress through the parts so in the shade, the fresh cool stream easily passed in descent. chilling the drinks. Our hosts, the Macedonian Cavers, talked freely with Sunday: Had a tour ofSlattner village the locals while the bottles kept with its basic timber structures, arnvmg. latticed walls, narrow paths and no cars as they can't be drivenup the hill. Saturday: A new cave, Mirko Cave, A man with water containers came to near the school was descended. I the village tap. Mirko Cave is just moved along underground to a below the houses on the side of a chamber but not being equipped limestone knoll surrounded by terrible returned. The cave continues to big thickets. This really is a pleasant place chambers dug out by a local man. He in which small streams and irrigation then informed cavers who promptly channels flow by pathways down extended it and descended the pitch. scented woodland ways and He then retired from all explorations. occasional limestone outcrops. Legend has it that a bride, dressed in white, emerges from the cave and, if We packed up to return to Matka and, her gaze falls upon you, you return about 10km down the road, were with her to disappear for ever. shown a large cave entrance about 40mhigh and 80mwide. A long slope Afternoon: Returned down the led to the top of some rocks and narrow rift of a pitch, about fifty feet behind was an inner entrance silted up deep, into a large gallery. Halfway with sand. It was about 12m high, down the pitch belled out to a free­ hang landing on a large boulder at the and in winter water issues from it. An old ruined castle stood to one side top ofa slope. with tumbling walls. The name ofthe Splendid formations at the bottom cave is something like Peashna. many ofthem delicate. The floor was Friday: The last four days were a full of fragile mud banks and thin collection ofminor explorations. One calcite flow coverings. The cave was not very long and went on to a wallow was up the canyon of Matka along a in mud though exploration continues. path supposedly dug out of the cliff side by Russian prisoners of war. It The main chamber is named Beautiful Room This is typical of most places began at our hotel and, at various heights above the lake, stretched the in Macedonian caves that are well whole way up the canyon. I followed decorated. it for about 6km finding it, in places, On the return the pitch was much exposed and exhilarating requiring more difficult. I climbed the ladder great concentration as a slip would thinking that I would be able to exit send you down sheer walls sometimes the rift at the top, however, before for 80ft.

The YRC Bulletin 16 Summer 1999 An other day we climbed up to a A low arch with a rock strewn floor chapel, termed a monastery, on the about stooping height eventually led opposite side of the valley. Nearby to a balcony with a view of a largish there was a route onto a pinnacle chamber and the sound of a stream ridge about 150ft above the chapel, below. There was a top way in and the start of an exposed arete. The another group was descending it by a route was up a gully with a tricky series ofpitches. move, about severe, leading to the Descending from the balcony by start of an exposed ledge which I did climbing down a slope to the river not fancy at all. So I spent a rather Sonya, our minder, announced that breathless couple ofminutes reversing they had not explored down stream the overhang to come back down. very well and a closer look was The panoramic view from the top, needed and we had the honour of across the Matka Canyon, made the joining in the exploration. climb worthwhile, That afternoon moved ~--~~ \1 Serbia ..."'-:'.j to the Mavrovo \ ~. National Park. \ ~'-...... --.. \\. Bulgaria V Mayrovo·. Saturday 1st August: I National \ We found the ( Park ~kopye --~ \ Matk ~ temperature at the ) -Tresonce . / Mavrovo National ,/ "Debar . ytiver Tresca ( Park much pleasanter Albania !J Kicevo" ~.~ ~..J... my than Matka. V \ alpine in feel and I ' i look. We drove to \ ."'" J'-P'" Tresonce and anived \?l&~: ~.', cBitola ~ !Good, (' \ ' at a forest clearing to ,~J sleep out. in the open , L c :: Greece S"\ 1~_. under stars visible all night. The cave is Immediately there was a cascade one hour up a path by the side of a (where I managed to keep dry) then fast flowing stream. Manrovo is next smaller but still walkable cave passage to the Albanian border, however for which looked spiky and sharp with obvious reasons the area was closed, mud banks. We climbed up out ofthe even to the Macedonians. stream and after a short distance to Alelitza Cave is a steady climb the top of a pitch which I was invited through woods by the stream which to down climb. While it didn't look followed the ravine to the cave very difficult it appeared slippery, and entrance on other side of the fast we had plenty of ladders I asked if it flowing river. I accompanied a group was really necessary for me to risk it, ofMacedonians who were equipped in but the T-shirt clad man with the various degrees of effectiveness. I handheld torch was already off over had full gear with both oversuit and the edge. So to keep face I followed undersuit while others managed with a when a voice came from below. handheld torch, Tvshirt and jeans as Someone had discovered a route the caves were never cold. lower down and was going onward but unfortunately only for a very short

The YRC Bulletin 17 Summer 1999 way as a sump was reported and the Debar is overwhelmingly Albanian, whole team turned and retraced to the according to our hosts (who being cascade. Among the antics of from Skopye were unpopular here), climbing up was someone having and only 3km from the border. We difficulty bridging up high enough to happened upon an Albanian wedding clear the spout of water which was procession which consisted of three strong enough to sweep a climber off transit-sized vehicles, packed and their holds. doubled packed with guests, every horn, light, and indicator activated. It Upstream was a different st01Y with was said that they do this for three large chambers, wonderful climbs into days stopping only for petrol and well decorated galleries, a high route toilets. Later a man driving a horse over calcite flowstone then down and cart came rushing up the road, again to rejoin the river, and an all too ribs protruding from the poor animal's short passage to a siphon. Many sides. We left Debar with supplies chambers were covered in a soft white and went up the large valley past its mud called Moonmilk. hydroelectric scheme. Reputedly Coffee, tea, cheese with bread, a there was here a cave formed in delightful situation in a glen with a alabaster but blasted away by gold cool breeze offset by a fire' s warmth, mining activities. and great crags rising steeply above Tuesday 4th: Returned up the valley us, completed the day. to Alelitza cave stopping off at a Sunday: We returned to the cave to resurgence discovered the previous for photography where one of the day by some members. Across the locals wanted to take pictures stream, through thickets and along a underground without a flash despite wall, a short climb reached the six foot futile pleas from one of the high entrance. Water appeared along Macedonian cavers concerned that a series of spout holes and down a they would not come out well. mossy wall and disappearing into the Monday: Went by jeep express over stream which flowed by nearby. A mountain roads to Lazarpole, then short climb went round a loose corner down through forest onto a fertile into a low canal of very cold water. plateau with limestone crags dipping We arrived, after thirty feet, in roomy at 30 degrees. My companions said chamber on a slant following the dip that there were no caves other than a of the bedding plane. A climb up of small one near Lazapole. TIlls place about :fifty feet to a wall revealed a was not what I expected having one way on the right, then choked. half empty shop, one empty restaurant The homeward trek began on the with flies the only diners. Rubble Thursday after a night's party at covered and cars shell strewn streets Matka. Through Greece, waiting for led up to a monastery and the many brakes to cool on mountain passes, people did not seem very forthcoming, Albania and Corfu, to see the moonlit The road to Debar had magnificent Mont Blanc's snows and the lights of cliffs stretching a long way. On the the Torrino hut just before the alpine ridge top was the border with dawn. Macedonia's turbulent neighbour, Albania.

The YRe Bulletin 18 Summer 1999 Blue Mountain Peak, Jamaica Don Mackay The choice in front of me was tantalising. Clear now of all my commitments I was left with two, or, with luck, three chairman of the Jamaica Railway. It days to myself before picking up my was his job to resurrect the 100 miles homeward bound banana boat. On the of wobbly line and ancient rolling breakfast table of my colonial style stock to cater for the banana and the hotel in Kingston the proprietor had bauxite traffic. left an inscribed gilt card inviting me to a tea party at the Governor's John suggested a route that would palace. The Governor General of take me to the old homestead of the Jamaica would himself be receiving Alchurch family. A planter cabin built the visitors. It was an opportunity that by his grandfather which he had could not be lightly dismissed. Indeed, converted as a hostel for visitors to it was a crucial period in the political the Blue Mountains. There, he said, I history of the island. Could I decline would find Cynthia who would look such an invitation? I telephoned the after me and arrange a guide. But, he shipping company who informed me said, the roads were tricky and I the ship was having difficulty in would need a Land Rover for the last getting a full cargo. The banana crop ten miles unless I was prepared to had been poor. The captain was walk. It was an understatement. The considering making a detour to South roads were incredible but, as if there America to try to get more bananas. were insufficient natural hazards, the Would I be prepared to add a few island was gripped by pre-election days to the voyage for this purpose? I fever and some of the islanders had readily agreed but also savoured the arranged the occasional road block as thought of an extra day I would be a protest against a regime they getting either to investigate some of considered unsatisfactory. The the unexplored caves of the island or gradient increased and my small car to visit the highest point in the came to rest, rear wheels spinning Caribbean - the Blue Mountain Peak. uselessly, on a hump. A small army of village boys lifted me bodily back to I turned down the Governor's invite level ground and I tried again without and I settled for the peak. There was avail. I left the car at this point and set just not time for everything. I was put off on foot with a boy to carry my in touch with a man who would help pack and I made good progress. I was me to get there. John Alchurch, son of now into deep jungle territory, In an English planter who had been places there were dealings planted brought up in Jamaica and had been to with coffee, here and there a small England to study civil engineering at settlement. In one ofthese I identified Loughborough. In a brief meeting I a shop and went inside. The learned that he had climbed in the construction was of bamboo. There Lake District and Scotland and that he was a steelyard hanging from the had returned to Jamaica to become rafters and a primitive counter. It

The YRe Bulletin 19 Summer ]999 could once have been a thriving measured 12' by 6' and must have grocery but there was now a singular been hewn from a giant tree. It was lack of anything appetising I would set with three oil lamps which Vinny wish to purchase. I had a drink of Red proceeded to light. Cynthia shuffled in Stripe beer and gave the boy one. I fed with a bowl full of lice and peas and the mangy cat a piece ofham from my chopped meat. Supper for Vinny packed lunch and left with a little which he said I could share. After more understanding of the road supper he wished to examine my gear. blocks, and sympathy for the people He was not pleased with my footwear who had erected them. but decided the deck shoes, the only thing I had, would do. My pack, last It was getting late when I arrived at used on Helvellyn, was dissected the cabin to be greeted first by a ruthlessly, You won't want this, you notice on the gate saying 'Please be won't want this, you won't want this quiet after 10 o'clock' and then by he said jettisoning the treasures, even Cynthia. the first aid kit I always take with me Cynthia, a velY large lady indeed, at home. "I will be taking everything escorted me into the compound we need like that", he said. where, seemingly not in the least I was sorry to see my precious tins of surprised by my arrival unannounced, beer thrown out but accepted an she sat down on a tree stump and assurance that he would take plenty of enquired ifI was hungry, Soon others water in a flask. appeared. Several generations of her offspring down to the tiniest bambino; a very close knit family. I was introduced to my guide, Vinny. He was not of the family. He was more the appearance of a Sherpa. A weather beaten face and a broad smile. Vinny explained, almost apologetically, that there was a standard fee, 40 dollars. I paid him in Jamaican money and was taken into The simple way of life of this cabin the inner sanctum of the sprawling and the people associated with it cabin. It was fitted up with improvised appealed to me. I would have liked to bunks in the rafters and an assortment have stayed and talked but Vinny of beds and bunks in the numerous reminded me he would wake me at 3 rooms leading from the main living o'clock and I was shown my bed. I area. The main room was lined with put my head down on the hard pillow bookshelves full of leather bound that night, hoping and expecting to fall volumes of great antiquity. Probably straight asleep. But jungle noises were great value too had not the termites starting up. I tossed and turned and and jungle insects taken their toll. TIle then worse, I began to itch! Perhaps I room, 30' long and 20' wide had an had exposed myself too much to the open fireplace and two tiny windows sun I thought. I tried a new position, at one end and a larger window closed and another. All the time it became in by jungle at the other such that no worse. I reached for my torch and direct light penetrated the gloom. In found I was covered in ants. Red the centre there was a table which

The YReBulletin 20 Summer 1999 ants!! Big red ants!!! I looked over the side of the bed and found my cover had slipped down and was trailing on the floor. Up it were marching legions of the ants. I pulled up the draw­ bridge and shook the cover and brushed most of the ants away before collapsing exhausted and falling into a fitful sleep. Liverishness then overtook me, or so I thought, but it was a swarm of fireflies dancing above my head. Piercing pinpoints of light and then Vinny shaking me. Come on, he said, or we will miss the dawn. Vinny had assessed me. He had decided beforehand that I would be like the Soon we left the jungle behind and rest. No good. emerged into open terrain. Fuschias, which grow like weeds in this I was given more rice for breakfast, heavenly place, gave way to lush this time with whole shrimps stirred grasses. I saw before me what looked into it. A treat brought up by the last like a long old slog. Arriving at the visit of the Land Rover. Vinny doled top I thought, this is it! What is all the out a bowl for me and one for him. He fuss about? Vinny announced that we gave me a spoon and I didn't start, I had arrived at Lazy Mans Peak. This, had always been used to taking the he said, is where most people turn heads and legs off shrimps and was back. How did I feel? He did not not sure what I was supposed to do. I disguise the surprise he felt that this was soon shown. Vinny scooped the lanky Englishman should wish to lot into his mouth and scrunched the proceed. Down and up we went. Back whole shrimps. I followed his into the jungle to emerge again to example. encounter an even longer long old Setting off, the smell of roasting slog. This time it was the real thing. coffee still lingering in the night air, At the top a. trig point and a stone we soon left the plantations behind. building. We had arrived at the Blue The track nanowedto a foot track Mountain Peak in time to see the rims like a tunnel into the undergrowth. I of cumulus cloud flash bright and give came to understand the need for. a way to the golden orb ofthe sun rising guide. There were forks. At times up to pour its rays down upon us circuses with a number of tracks relentlessly during the homeward leading off Vinny pressed on. I journey. It was spectacular and followed uncomplaiuingly which I rewarding. think surprised him. I saw a large fruit At this point I felt I deserved a swig hanging from a tree. Vinny explained from the flask. Vinny handed it to me. that you could eat it, or, you couldn't I removed the cap and raised it to my eat it. The sort of fruit, he said, you lips. Glug, Glug. Never mind the taste could eat now but next month you of paraffin which must have been the would be stone dead. I felt I would last thing Vinny had had in the flask. like to stay longer and learn more about it but it was not possible.

The YRC BulMin 21 Summer 1999 Now, in the full daylight, it is possible It was English but their own. A sort of for me to see more of my pigeon English. surroundings, From Kingston, the I collected my oddments from the Blue Mountain Peak had appeared cabin and gave Vinny another 40 indisputably blue. From close quarters Dollars, Jamaican, that I felt he had it was green. Lush green. I had hoped earned. Cynthia was in the compound that from the top ofit I would be able by her bamboo house still surrounded to take a ridge walk but Vinny by the family. I produced my camera explained that was not possible. All and they all knew what it was. Half of the nearby peaks are covered in brush them vanished. Camera shy no doubt. like vegetation and they are I took pictures, said my farewells and inaccessible. They do some boar set off on the long trek back to my hunting in parts he said but no-one car. The deck shoes which served me with any sense goes there. I recalled well uphill were becoming painful on stories of the Cockpit country further the descent. Each step became like a to the east. The folklore has it that no­ hammer blow to my big toes. Months one ever goes there and comes back. later my Blue Mountain toe-nails came Why should this be any different? off A previous visitor had left a biscuit tin on the 7402 ft top. Vinny picked it up and examined it. To him this was a useful and a valuable thing. He decided to take it back. It seems there is just one route to the top and no alternative but to return the same way. We set off and in the light I was able to see humming birds. Small animals and lizards scurried beneath our feet. Coffee, I noticed as well as in the main plantations, was grown in amongst the jungle trees. Don made this trip in 1981 and the The higher up the mountain the better then une~)lored caves mentioned the coffee, explained Vinny. I recalled were the Windsor Caves south of an old ballad. Fahnouth. They are visited both for the guided tour to a fraction of the 'The higher up the mountain extensive underground rivers ( see the the greener grows the grass, locally produced guidebook 'Jamaica The more a donkey cocks its Underground' ) and for the leg the more it shows its ... spectacular dusk mass departure of bats. Local caving activity was Ask no questions hear no lies recently reported to be moribund, etc.' The John Craw National Park was Lower down, at four thousand feet, I established in 1993 in an attempt to observed large fields planted with arrest the deforestation of the Blue onions. Vinny spoke to the workers Mountain area. arriving at the fields. I couldn't understand what they were saying. You see they all speak English he said.

The YRC Bulletin 22 Summer 1999 Chris Bonington & Doug Scott ­ Climbing Introduction and Setting the Scene Mick Fowler - High Standard into the Technical Climbing - Himalayas Julie Ann Clyma - Exploratory illennium Climbing in the Himalayas Alan Hinkes - Bagging the 8000m Peaks Jon Tinker (guide) & Chris Brown here's it (client) - Commercial Climbing on Going? the Highest Peaks Mike Thompson - Environmental Issues in Nepal Leo Houlding & Seb Grieve - British climbing is alive, well & very necky Andy Parkin & Stevie Haston - The Alps: Theme Park or Great Adventure Climbing Ground Alex Huber - Big Wall Climbing in Yosemite and the Greater Ranges Reinhold Messner - Keynote Lecture

"Ifothers keep getting killed on their 13th or 14th {8000m peak} it keeps the number six spot open for me" ''the challenge is entirely individual" ''the fall was just brilliant - wow" "ifalpinism is the Walker Spur then alpinism is dead in the Millennium" "afull on place ... it's out there . skate it it's fourth dimension . An Alpine Club fired it spirit strong ... floating" Symposium ''telling you about this is, in itself, to risk damaging it - an ethical dilemma" 6th March, 1999 "no mountain is worth a digit." "..dogs on leads in the Westem Cwm" ''bolting the alps won't reduce deaths" ''those magical days ofexploratory ''Mont Blanc is reduced in stature by mountaineering" the huts, waymarks and the trails" "is a solo ascent ofEverest truly solo "millions ofharder possibilities, ifdone alongside dozens ofothers" elsewhere, just waiting to be found."

The YRC Bulletin 23 Summer 1999 It certainly was a day with variety and the right to hold an alternative contrasts in the Pennine Lecture approach ensured that people were Theatre of Sheffield Hallam University still speaking to one another for the four hundred or so climbers afterwards. gathered to consider Climbing into the Doug Scott, in measured tones, made Millennium - Where IS it Going? under an unpromising start for debate by the charge of ringmaster Sir Christian postulating that there was nothing new Bonington. to be said as from Mummery to The major difficulty of the morning Reinho1d they were all contriving to was not the sudden fall of snow push the limits and that rather than blocking the higher trans-Pennine using aids, bolts, guides (guide1ess routes, but technical problems with climbing was castigated in the AC's the sound and slide systems which early years) or drugs we should wait hied the patience ofall present. While until we, or someone else, can make such hiccups are acceptable among the an ascent. He raised a chuckle by ad hoc arrangements at P1as y Brenin supposing that any introduction of for an Alpine Club (AC) symposium retrospective dope testing would the expectations of a purpose built result in the cancellation of most university lecture theatre are previous Hima1ayanascents. somewhat higher. Scott finished by emphasising the need The AC had secured an impressive for eternal vigilance if we are to line up of speakers representing all maintain access to the mountains as aspects of mountaineering from the we know them in the face of guided client on Everest to the young commercialism and increasing use. bold crag-rats. Only Warren Hollinger This was echoed by Mick Fowler who could not make it due to damaging his pointed out that the inexperienced back during a fall. Speakers were climber, under commercial pressure to enthusiastic and open and entered into achieve early successes, and not the spirit of debate when the appreciating some of the problems or discussion sessions challenged their risks, may do things simply because ethical stances or sought clarification. they think that is what they are illustrating their perspectives with expected to do. Since technical slides and videos oftheir ascents they advances have made it possible to get described the past, present and up just about anything where do you probable future states of their corner stop? Different eras apply different of the climbing scene. All were ethics to the use of equipment: bivvy warmly received by the enthusiastic bag, tent, porta1edge, winching gear, audience. While little progress was where you draw the line changes with made towards a definitive and unified time. He illustrated the dilemma from climbing ethic I'm convinced that a personal experience of balancing greater understanding of the different weight of equipment carried with the viewpoints was reached and all in a corresponding loss in speed of good humoured and entertaining way. movement.. On one trip the potential This was not achieved by diluted loss of a burner unit in snow put the views or weasel words, indeed sparks whole climb in jeopardy. On another flew and there were sharp intakes of carrying insufficient food for a fifteen breath at some of the challenging day trip meant hunger affected statements, but a mutual respect for judgement and a fall resulted in

The YRC Bulletin 24 Summer 1999 cracked ribs. Fowler maintained that day. He certainly need all his these were, for him, personal determination and stoicism at the judgements but this contrasts with the lectern given the equipment failures he US National Park institutional suffered. approach of Rangers checking your There was much comment on the dogs route plans, gear, food and fuel on leads view ofguided clients on the against their standard checklist. highest peaks. Coos Brown, a potato Julie Ann Clyma started, as usual, fanner gave the clients' perspective apologetically and there is no need as but left me uncertain ofhis motives in her achievements in exploratory going mountaineering. For him mountaineering put the most of us to raising sponsorship for his trips and shame. The apology appeared to be for local charities was a major factor for not being on the highest, steepest so he needed to carry banners and get faces and for including pictures taken these photographed on the tops. The of tent with herself and Roger Payne use of guides allowed him to get to between climbs. Both of these help higher and more distant peaks than he me to identify with the approach and could manage on his own. Preferring are more welcome than yet another to tackle only those peaks I can picture ofa blank wall or smear ofice. manage myself or with fiiends, I was Her point, that notion that a technical uncomfortable with his approach. climbing - exploratory climbing divide However, I am happy to use mountain does not really exist, was made guide support to provide food, fuel through considering their trips off the and transport to make my stay in the beaten track. Here maps may have mountains longer and easier, so it is plenty of lines but fail to prepare you another case of where does the for impasses which nobody has individual draw the line to define their previously seen and you are pushing mountaineering ethic. Scott wondered personal limits, coping with a wider how different guided climbing on range of unexpected factors. The Everest was from his own ethical dilemmas of exposing new participation in the big Bonington areas to potential damage through her expeditions of the '60s and '70s as a visits and publicity were explored and cog in a large machine with little she encouraged us not to repeat earlier control over events. Perhaps the mistakes, as with the Sanctuary, which essential difference was that they resulted in environmental degradation. joined as fiiends and remained fiiends for the rest oftheir lives. Completing tick lists has been a continuing part of Alan Hinkes life. The other side of the hip, that of the Having spotted all the A4 Pacific and organiser/guide was put by Jon Tinker Deltic locomotives he is now well on who was due to embark on his sixth his way through the 8000m peaks. such trip to Everest with about a Unlike many top climbers he strongly dozen punters, sevenguides and three dozen sherpas. For him the main values a family life, carries a photo of his daughter on the mountains and will problem was his clients' failure to not risk fingers or toes for the sake of reveal how they were feeling and their another summit. While essentially full medical history. The reticence, highly competitive he is perhaps more fuelled by a fear that negative willing than some others to turn back, information might reduce their chance of acceptance or inclusion in the survive and leave a top for another

The YRC Bulletin 25 Summer 1999 summit party, is understandable once money and the summiting success rate you have invested thousands of for next year's brochure. pounds and a lot of face, time and There was a consensus that everyone effort. Messner commented that only was concemed about managing the the deaths of the guides in the '96 honeypot peaks for future disaster prevented the testing in court mountaineers but practically no of a guides responsibilities on such an consensus on the solution. A ascent. universal ban on the use of oxygen on Tinker has a cowboy client, Bob, who Everest has been mooted, as has the wants to execute a particular lasso possible bu.ilding ofa permanent lodge jumping trick on Everest's summit. I on the north side of Everest to cope recall freezing in a queue to approach with the larger numbers of people, the top of Mont Blanc with Graham provide a medical centre and reduce Salmon, behind an Italian juggler and some of the environmental damage his video camera wielding friend. from rubbish and human waste. They were determined to have their Mike Thompson dispelled the fifteen minutes of fame recorded to orthodox environmentalist argument promote the act. We decided to quit that increasing Nepalese population the queue and descend for that was and visitor numbers strains resources, not mountaineering as we knew it. I causes wider foraging for wood, feel the same about Bob though I'm farming of less suitable land, burning unlikely to be behind him in the queue. ofvaluable dung, soil erosion, quicker Tinker came under heavy questioning run-off flooding and reservoir silting. to justify taking, to such heights, These arguments were put forward in people who could not do this on their Stockholm in 1972, by David own and in so doing put added Attenbrough in '84 and by the pressure on an already overburdened Overseas development Agency in '97 environment. His response was that as urgent and soon to be catastrophic their part took away more rubbish problems, At least the first two have than they brought in, it helped these proved to be ill-founded. Thompson paying mountaineers and the local argued that their approach fails economy while he still drove an old because it is: apocalyptic whereas car so it obviously was not environments are truly adaptive; profiteering, My concem is that the blames the Nepalese who are actually paying client is not in control of their the victims; exacerbating the ignorant own ascent but abrogates that fecund peasant model of a typically responsibility to the guide who, at resourceful, intelligent and those altitudes, can't exercise the knowledgeable people; and, distorting degree of control over the situation existing intemational tensions through expected in, say, an alpine guided the development process. climb. But then I am a poor team The result is that twenty five years and player and a apt to be a bloody millions ofpounds have been aimed at nuisance if I can't control my own the wrong problem. His example was actions. It is unclear, to me, just what the apparent deforestation being is the role of the guide when passing falsely attributed to poverty. In fact through the Khumbu ice fall or, sitting the revolution in the fifties on the South Col, balancing probable nationalised the village forests and weather, acclimatisation, value for removed the local forest guardian

The YRC Bulletin 26 Summer 1999

Haston, himself, has rep ortedly risk, our approach and our chosen (Observer, 21 March 1999, pIS) resorted routes. For him, between his last to attempting the title offirst Brit to 8000m peak and his first heart attack top Everestfrom both north and south as he put it, the mountains are getting in an attempt to secure BBC taller and the crags steeper so his sponsorship. If he can then choice ofroutes is changing. snowboard down it should increase He saw Himalayan climbing as audiences and his future sponsorship progressing from knowledge and potential. equipment limited exploration, On a day when we saw hundreds of through peak goals and the prestige of images of mountains and crags it was Everest which still distorts the one of Haston's which struck home. mountaineering world and its Not a peak but a few square metres of reporting, to nationalism epitomised rock with a dozen or more fixed ropes by flags on summits, through the running side by side, all weathered to moribund late 1960s rescued by tat and anchored to goodness knows Bonington's new agenda setting face what, a rusting piton, snow-stake, ice climb, to the small group alpine style -peg or failing bolt perhaps. Taken on ascents ofhigh faces or adventures on Nanga Parbat, it could have been smaller remoter peaks with the anywhere on the highest peaks consequent sense ofexposure. though, it summed up our failure to The essence of mountaineering, for operate a sustainable ethic. It was a him, is the handling the risks and long way from take nothing but hence putting yourself in touch with a photographs, leave nothing but deeper, animal instinct. This is footprints. He questioned the ethic of addictive and can't be bought on mass ascents of 8000m peaks through commercial expeditions but can be employing numerous sherpas to readily found, at whatever level, by trample a path to the top for you. simply not going where all the others Alex Huber asked quo vadis? and go. plotted his own progress through Reinhold's death zone is, for Scott, his family skiing, alpine ascents, sport come alive zone a mountaineering climbing including training by reality not found in western urban life. exercising separately each finger, to applying those techniques on big walls Discussion brought broad agreement and so eliminating the need for ninety on a few points but an acceptance of per cent of the protection bolts on El some inherent internal inconsistency. Cap. The next step is to apply Leo's Firstly; there is no single climbing bouldering style moves, leaping ethic but a collection of differing several feet for a flash move, to ethics which stand alone. Secondly, bigger, higher routes. any ethical stance is acceptable provided it does not disadvantage Reinold Messner asserted that others and is, in the broadest sense, mountaineering is inherently about risk environmentally sustainable. Thirdly, and that a mountain without danger is the only constant is change. These not a mountain but something else. were hammered out by debating of The danger, necessary for learning, specific issues. Agreement was limits the number of participants and reached, including even Ken Wilson there is no single rule or ethic, we from the audience, that removing must each decide our own level of

'nlC YRC Bulletin 28 Summer 1999 dubious pegs and the like from present. When climbers shuffle past a traditional alpine trade routes and desiccating corpse to top a peak replacing them with guide-maintained something somewhere is wrong. bolts was ethically acceptable. The The warm applause late in the evening use ofbottled oxygen on Everest was and the chatter round the bar were an uneasy compromise recognising testimony to an interesting event and that the individual's right to choose the a positive attitude to the future of then' own ethic would inevitably mountaineering. The symposium gave interfere with others choice. If you ordinary climbers a chance to hear the choose not to, you still have to step leading lights reflect on their and round others bottle dumps: if you others' achievements. The Alpine choose to use it, you prevent others Club deservethanks for organising the making an unsullied ascent by your event and for making it accessible to presence. An authority imposed ban more climbers by staging it outside on the use of bottled oxygen was London. rejected on the grounds that it was unlikely to be widely accepted at Michael Smith

On Lingmoor Fell during the January LHGMeet, Dermis Armstrong, John Schofield, Alan Brown and Mike Godden

Photographs by Bill Todd

Swirl How with George Spenceley, GenyLee, John Schofield, Ken Aldred, Stuart Dix, Michael Smith, Dermis Armstrong and Mike Hartland

The YRC Bulletin 29 Summer 1999 Shorter approaches can be found or Costa Blanca con Nieve longer ones ofperhaps fifteen minutes such as at the Pefion de Ifach by Michael Smith quieter Calpae. The climbing was Just five days before I was due to set restricted here during the nesting off'for Scotland and the meet in Glen season. This is April to June rather Etive an urgent question came from than the longer period given in our He1en, holding a call on the telephone, guide book. Register your presence at ''Do you fancy Benidorm instead next the entrance building. week?" Given the weather prospects The walking was good with predicted by the long term forecast I contouring tracks, pines, orchards and jumped at the chance. tavemas or mountain peaks such as Cheap accommodation in Benidonn the Puig Campana. We descended and car hire gave access to plenty of this by the north scree which was well climbing within a thirty minute range. covered by snow (the coast had Most of it on clean, sun-warmed, enjoyed it's first snow since 1988 just bolted rock. Our first choice was well before we arrived) down into thick off' the road along a reasonable track holly and gorse: a stimulating beyond Sella (past the cemetery with experience wearing shorts. Snow White's dwarfs) and a full two The meet in this area planned for minutes uphill to the limestone crag of October has justly drawn plenty of Ojo de Odra. The MAM were out in interest. I'd encourage walkers, force on a meet and their ropes climbers, ornithologists and painters to covered the crag. go and avoid the 'British' bits.

_!W~ Pefion de Ifach (above), Calpe, and the view from its guano stinking top to the Helada (left), Puig Campana(distant mid and Toix

The YRC Bulletin 30 Summer 1999 reaching the top of the red IWl, my A Postcard first reaction was ''you have got to be from Switzerland joking - you need crampons for that!" I was coaxed down by three friends, Martyn Wakeman skis firmly in the snow plough At the moment the earth seems to position. After falling once and have plunged away from the sun into regaining composure, I managed to the icy depths of the known universe. snow plough turn all the way down, The daytime temperature was -7°C in albeit slowly and without grace. This Lausanne over the weekend making was quite sensational, having walked for some vel)' chilly rides to work. down hills for years and now being able to slide (effortlessly") down. I Two weekends ago I went skiing for am not sure of the effortlessly bit, the first time ever on snow. This because my lack oftechnique made it proved to be an enormous success and ve,y hard work to control the skis. monster fun. Having been contemplating a broken leg and ripped Nobody told me about going up hill out knees, I wasn't expecting much again. Simple as grabbing hold ofthat progress. Especially so because bar thing and letting it pull you up? friends had told me that snow Not really - in fact tills is harder than boarding was easier to learn than skiing down. If you skis go over a skiing - but I had had a day on my bump or into a grove then you are butt trying unsuccessfully to defy pulled out of line with the tow wire gravity on a snow board, so what and you fall off. Also, the wire jerked chance on skis? on the steep bits and nearly pulled my arms out. So, I am joining the ''ban On the Saturday it was off to the the lift" campaign and can now be debutantes slope. This means learner seen dressed in black with night vision in French, but has distinctly negative goggles and plastic explosive. Ifyou connotations in English. Upon want to ski down hill, then you should checking the dictionary, debutante in jolly well walk up it first! That would English means: a girl or young woman reduce the unsightly gaggle of people regarded as being upper class, wealthy, and of a frivolous or at the lifts and cafes, returning a little dignity to these mountains. snobbish social set. Hummn - not something that I wish to be considered -:~ ;~' ;~ ~l~, -:~, as too often! --~~~"j!J-~ >-- .•....' ~-:1' . I seemed to master the basics ofskiing 0,/ rf~/ without to many problems and by the ~M..- end of Saturday I could ski wherever I Having completed one red IWl, my wanted on tills beginner's slope. friends abandoned me in search of What to do next - not wanting to near death experiences on the black remain a debutante but still wishing to slopes. Trust me' here, crampons return alive - I had to decide between really are needed. So I wandered a large jump to red runs or stay put ­ around a bit and regained some tills ski area lacked intermediate composure before trying a slightly beginners lUllS. harder red run. This was narrow in So I forked out another 30 CHF and places so you had to turn or start tree joined the queue for the big lift. On hugging. The Swiss whizzing by at

The YRC Bulletin 31 Summer 1999 ten times the speed didn't help, but by but the inside temperature was still the end I was flowing a bit more and well below freezing with moisture letting a bit of speed build up. Phew! from our breath freezing to the inside - but boy did my butt ache the next ofthe tent as a layer offrost. day, not from falling but from Breaking camp was the cold bit, crouching for two days. before we descended amidst cold Last weekend it was back to the real sunshine. We had planned to arrive at hills without the ugly towers and a different railway station on the way monstrous abominations of man. My back to make this a round trip. We American friend, Pete, wanted to try decided to follow the yellow triangles winter camping for the first time. We marking the summer path to traverse agreed to go snow-shoe walking under some big cliffs that barred the across the Jura. It was going to be a way out. This turned out into a bit of cold weekend, so an excellent an adventure because the snow was introduction. There was about a very deep and soft, hard work even in metre of snow on the top ofthe Jura, snow shoes. The slope angle so progress with snow shoes was hard increased until we were on a traverse work and without, a joke! We walked at about 35 to 40 degrees, which is up a tree lined ridge with views of difficult with snow shoes. Pete didn't Mont Blanc towering up from 300m think much to this, but followed my at the lake to over 4500m. The steps until we found the breach in the occasional glimpse of the other big cliffs and made it to the top. This alps arose behind a cascade of vicious included a ledge that the Swiss had alpine peaks gleaming in their winter kindly protected with a metal rod & raiment of snow. We arrived at the chain. Never dangerous, more a top (1580m) about four o'clock, with feeling of unease of slipping into the temperatures at -Doe not counting alms ofthe waiting forest. the wind chill from the swirling spin drift. Mushroom shaped snow drifts had formed around the occasional tree on the now exposed ridge. We could see a snow storm coming across the valley so decided to make camp. A large platform was cut into the snow and walls made around this before pitching the tent. As it happened, the storm was minor and we walked to the summit before returning to thaw out my still frozen beef and chilly stew made at home. A three course meal was just the job and we retired wrapped in all our clothes and snuggled deep inside our sleeping bags for the night. Morning came and we had a lazy lie in before melting more snow for porridge and a brew. The tent had helped to shelter us during the night On Bradfield Moors east of Derwent Edge

The YRC Bulletin 32 Summer 1999 On a Condor's Wings the mass ofclouds ruined it. We could only see ourselves congratulating each by Jose Camarlinghi other. Suddenly, a gap opened in the clouds revealing the west face of After the war between the Aymara Huayna Potosi. The hanging glaciers gods, and before mankind posed a among the steep mountainsides so threat to the survival of the species, captured our attention that we didn't Condoriri, the greatest ofthe condors, notice the clouds dispersing behind us. was immortalised in ice, rock and When we turned around, we were snow. So the Aymara believe. surprised to see Lake Titicaca in the distance and, farther north, more awesome Andean peaks. According to Aymara legend, Condoriri was a gigantic condor that lived before humans were around to endanger the species. The Aymara tell that after the war between their supreme gods of the universe, Pachacuti and Wiracocha, Condoriri The Condoriri basin was immortalised into rock and ice, its . Today, Bolivia's Condoriri, in the spread wings frozen in an eternal take­ Cordillera Real, retains its natural off position. Sir Martin Conway, the majesty and has become popular with 19th century explorer and Honorary climbers and trekkers, who come to Member of the YRC, was the first to marvel at its pristine and savage introduce the western world to this beauty. The clouds clustered on the beautiful mountain. He compared it to east side ofMt. Condoriri (5,648m) as the Matterhorn in the Swiss Alps. In we made our way through the 1926 Germans German Stoller and moraines and glaciers. By the time we Helmut Fritz wrote to the Bolivian reached the couloir that leads to the Andean Club about their new climbs in summit ridge, visibility had dropped to the region. In the letter they referred 10m We figured on reaching a peak to a mountain they climbed, but whose mobbed by clouds. The ridge appeared name they didn't know. From their to be very steep and description, we believe. narrow, but since we they were the first to could only see white have climbed Mt. fluff to either side, we Condoriri along its felt naively calm and current main route. It confident. We crossed was not until the 1960s the last, nearly flat that foreign and local section to the summit, mountaineers started likewise in a swirl of hiking .and climbing in clouds. Then there was the Condoriri area. The nothing left to climb; region's geography is we were there. really quite complex. Reaching Condoriri's There are dozens of summit has always peaks with all levels of given me a sense ill difficulty, each peak triumph, but this time boasting its own beauty The summit

The YRCBulletin 33 Summer 1999 and climbing approach. improvements ill the What's best is that most road leading to the of them can be reached reservoir, the local from the base camp Aymara farmers have located next to Lake organised an association Chiar Khota (Black that provides luggage Lake). The walk through transport by donkey or the central Condoriri llama, fresh rainbow valley takes just three lake trout and cold beer. hours from the end ofthe They also guard the road at Plaza de Llamas, tourists' empty tents in Tuni Valley. This is a around Lake Chiar highly recommended trip, Khota, collect all the not only for climbing rubbish left behind by ignorant trekkers and experts but also for Pequefio Alpamayo campers, hikers, fishers have even built latrines and nature lovers. at base camp. We just plopped down This area is generally there on the summit and used by mountaineers contemplated Alpamayo to acclimatise before Chico, the peak we. higher ascents. After conquered the day spending a few days before. The peak was and climbing a couple named after a mountain ofpeaks, they are ready in Peru's Cordillera for the 6,OOOm peaks Blanca, supposedly the like Huayna Potosi or most beautiful mountain lllimani. Several in the world. Alpamayo Crevasses below Condoriri trekking routes pass by Chico (or Pequefio Condoriri's base camp, Alpamayo) cannot be seen from the so at the peak ofthe tourist season the base camp; a large glacier blocks the valley gets fairly busy but, fortunately, view. To reach the mountain's base, not unbearably so. it's necessary to climb Tarija Peak first, descend a hundred meters on the east side and cross an exposed ridge. From our view, though, it didn't look so difficult. After spending more than an hour on the summit, we climbed down towards base camp. Without the cloud coverage, we could appreciate just how steep and narrow the ridge was that we so peacefully walked across. It was wide enough to fit both feet, but the. slopes on both sides measured seventy degrees. From there Jose Camarlinghi ofAndean Summits, we could see tlie thirty or so tents that La Paz. has adapted ,this article from neighboured the lake. Since more a version which appeared in the climbers and trekkers have been Bolivian Times, January 14, 1999, visiting in recent years, due to Vol.VINo.2

The YRCBulletin 34 Summer 1999 Reminiscences height was too much for the leader! and his deputy, and both spent the first two days in La Paz in bed, the deputy ofBolivia 1988 leader wishing to die as soon as possible. Other members were John Sterland affected to a greater or lesser extent, Articles on the 1988 Bolivian particularly David Hick, as reported in expednion have been ~tten by issue four ofthe bulletin, and also Ian Harvey Lomas and Michae1 Smith in Crowther who, on return from base the first, second and fourth issues of camp to La Paz, spent five days in bed The Yorkshire Rambler, and a full sufferingfrom mouth ulceration and it technical report, published in 1989, was necessary for him to be fed was produced by Michael Smith. intravenously and to be attended daily However, I thought that it might be of by a doctor and an anaesthetist. The interest to add some of my own, non effects of altitude sickness were technical, impressions of that exacerbated by upset tummies, almost expedition, bearing in mind the certainly caused by some element of imminent departure of a dozen the food served in the local members on a second expedition this restaurants. So, 1999 expedition summer. Michael Smith and David members, be careful what you eat in Hick were, of course, the active restaurants, because they don't seem climbers, but I was charged with the to be subject to the stringent controls duty of producing a botanical survey. which one finds elsewhere. This is Therefore things which I was despite the apparently large number of impressed or concerned with were to doctors and dentists in La Paz, or an extent different from those which perhaps it is the reason why there are have previously been reported. I believe the most difficult aspect of 1 'Our Leader's' diary of those early days the expedition, and one which the records a different perspective. On the 1999 expedition will undoubtedly second day three of us headed south-east encounter, was altitude sickness. This from La Paz, in a taxi, for a walk through hit us almost immediately after arrival deep ravines; bird spotting. We have a in La Paz, which is 13700 feet above spicy, if scrawny, chicken meal with chewy purple potatoes and beer for under a pound sea level. The sudden change from then a Micro minibus back to the centre and almost sea level at Heathrow to that a wander round the markets. John retired with a headache and so escaped the visit to a burger-bar Which, against my better judgement, I was persuaded to try my preference being for the local foods. In bed by nine I managed four hours before the burger re-appeared. The next day's entry is short as were the snatches of sleep between dashes to the bathroom. The entry does record that four set off on a $255 trip to Cuzco, that David Hick kept providing sugared water and by the eveniung I A well protected Michael Smith and a managed a stroll but not food. The folloing day David and I were off climbing on the market scene. All photographs by John Ster1and Devil's Molar. While I was affected by the altitude what struck me down was the burger.

The YRC Bulletin 35 Summer 1999 so many medics in the town, although when we arrived at Nubi, and our they seem to be very knowledgeable imminent arrival had been well and to have excellently equipped advertised by the headlights of our surgeries. vehicle. We drove into this little isolated village to a reception After the early La Paz experience committee of practically the whole most of the party acclimatised for six village: the children were assembled in days by travelling to the Inca towns of the front, and the adults stood behind. Cuzco and Machu Picchu, as mentioned by Harvey Lomas in Issue 1. Located at 2500m, Machu Picchu covers ten acres of ruins, and was discovered by an American named Bingham in 1911. Later lan Crowther and I visited Tiwanaku, which is situated between La Paz and Lake Titicaca. The Tiwanaku civilisation pre-dates the Incas, and interesting All remote villages III the artefacts of that era can be viewed at Apolobamba, and perhaps in the the Tiwanaku museum in La Paz. whole of Bolivia, have a school, the The open-air markets in La Paz are building of which is financed by fascinating and very extensive. UNESCO, sometimes with the Generally speaking they are located on assistance ofthe Bolivian government, the south side ofthe Prado, while the and it is customary for (very rare) better-class shops and commercial visitors to be accommodated in the premises are located on the north side school or the school house. Children ofthe Prado. sometimes walk for up to four or five miles to go to school. As mentioned in the Expedition Diary in Issue 1 ofthe Bulletin, we spent the Base camp was set up near Lago first night in the Apolobamba in the Pauoche, the most easterly of the school house at the village of Nubi three lakes, up the valley from Nubi Pampa, arriving there after an Pampa, at about 15000 feet, with the adventurous drive across a "no-mans­ assistance of a muleteer or arrieros land" ofrough terrain where the track named Benanzio Huanca, discovered over the "difficult" areas was and commissioned by David Hick. delineated by more or less parallel lines of stones. Only a high­ clearance four­ wheeled vehicle could be driven over such terrain, and it was necessary to make many stops to make sure that the vehicle could negotiate a particularly bumpy piece of ground. It was well after dark "'.

The YRC Bulletin 36 Summer 1999 His mule and donkey, although tinned food: meat was available, but unwilling, and despite the we didn't particularly fancy it! In the comparatively unreliable nature of end we reduced the local stock of Huanca, proved invaluable in the sardines, bought some ofthe very dry joumey to and from base camp and bread, what we thought was llama also our trek to Pelechuco, and the cheese (very expensive), the only two circuitous route back to base camp. tins of fruit in the village, oranges, All the lakes in this area were glacial, margarine, the one tin of comed beef and heavily silted, giving an attractive in the village, rice, the only remaining green hue to the water. The site tin of sausages, and a bottle of selected for base camp was therefore Nescafe. No fresh vegetables were located a little way above the lake by available. the side ofa rushing stream. At least, Life in the village was very basic: as it was rushing during the day, but it an example, there were three froze solid every night when the communal ''loos'', located over the temperature dropped dramatically to stream which flowed through the about minus ten degrees centigrade. village, and which provided effluent Although the sun eventually melted disposal at no cost. Surprisingly the the stream during the morning it was village boasted a fairly extensive street agony washing our clothes or lighting system, paid for, as we ourselves in the water. understand, by foreign aid. The only We had a camp minder, provided by snag was that the village could not the mountain agent through whom afford to generate the electricity transport and other arrangements were necessary to make it work, so it had made. He was also supposed to do never been used. the cooking, but proved incapable of Ian and I retumed to base camp by a cooking anything other than soup and circuitous route via a 17500 foot high porridge, so that the culinary pass, which was extensively used as a activities of the expedition were trade route. Mules carried most ofthe shared by members ofthe party. Our loads, but many of the muleteers also reliance on the mountain agent to carried various loads .in their provide the "cook", and also the food "knapsacks", consisting of a shawl­ was a mistake, as the amount of food like piece of material, which they fold provided for the time at base camp in very similar fashion to a papoose was not only inadequate, but also sling in which the women carry their lacking in variety and content essential children. The air is thin at that at such altitude. It was therefore altitude, but these men did not seem to necessary for Ian and me to trek about suffer from the respiratory problems twenty miles over the mountains to that I had on the way up, for although Pelechuco to buy more provisions. a mule was carrying our rucksacks, I This joumey was made with Harvey found that I could only manage about Lomas and David Martindale, as 200 steps ofthe ascent before I had to described by Harvey in Issue 2 of the "rest awhile" (to admire the view of Bulletin. However, we found that the course). During this trek Huanca, Pelechuco shops, or stalls as they who accompanied us, spent most of perhaps could be more accurately the joumey spinning llama wool on his described, had very little to sell apart hand-held spinner. This was a from large quantities of tinned common activity of travellers in the sardines, local hard bread, and a little

The YRC Bulletin 37 Summer 1999 area, since it seemed that most of their clothes were made locally in the villages on small looms. This activity is indicative of the backward nature oflife in the Apolobamba. Our trek took us through the village of ruo ruo Estancia, where we spent the night, again in the school. There was a disturbance during the night, and all that she was likely to have cystitis or the dogs in the area decided to bark. some infection ofthe urethra. Michael Huanca alleged that there was an Smith and I, therefore, took our intruder outside, and he barricaded the medical equipment and accompanied door. We did not see the "intruder", Andres Barreras to his home in Kelo and the dogs eventually quietened Pado, a walk which took us about one down. Payment for school-room and a quarter hours. We were taken accommodation was a matter of into a small courtyard; two small negotiation, and usually consisted of a boxes and blankets made of llama few American dollars, topped up with wool were produced, and we were a pocket calculator and a few invited to sit down. On one side of Bolivianos. the courtyard were living quarters, probably communal for day-time use, The bush telegraph is very active in and on two other sides were store the Apolobamba, and everyone for houses. On the fourth side was what miles around knew that we were could have been a slaughter house for encamped in the Nubi valley. So, one killing llamas, because there was a morning, just as it was getting light at stone channel leading from the about seven o'clock a young Indian doorway to the exit from the named Andres Barreras arrived at base compound, and presumably this was camp and told us that his wife was ill. for the blood to run away. Llama We asked questions in our not very meat, dark red in colour, was laid out good Spanish, which he only vaguely on one ofthe walls to dry. understood. We identified her symptoms as sickness and diarrhoea, Many of the members of the Indian and immediately thought that she had woman's family were inside the living the ''trots'', we therefore prescribed quarters, and very soon smoke issued immodium and he went away from the roof The fire was to heat delighted with a supply of these water to prepare some cocoa (a rare tablets. However, he retumed three luxury), with which we were later days later and said his wife was no served in mugs of metal. While we better, and requested that we go to were drinking the cocoa two members see her. Further questioning revealed of the family went to fetch the Indian

The YRC Bulletin 38 Summer 1999 wife, who could hardly walk. She was catalogue, photograph and if possible escorted into the living quarters and identify them. This proved much there was then another long wait. more difficult than I had imagined, Ultimately Andres said she was ready because prior to departure I could not to see us, We entered the hut: and saw obtain any useful information on her sitting on a small chair surrounded flowers in the area. I contacted by members ofher family, who clearly several botanic gardens, including thought she was going to die. We Kew Gardens, who said that their asked where her pain was, and botanists had visited practically all ascertained that it was worse after areas in South America except the urinating. Michael and I then went Apolobamba area. I could find no into "wise consultation", considered books on the botany of the area, the medicines we had available, and except one in Spanish at Cambridge prescribed a course of antibiotics, University, but this was not VClY About three days later we had helpful. A visit to a professor at occasion to visit the village again and Birmingham University, allegedly an we were delighted to learn that she expert, only resulted in his telling me had made a full recovery, She was that I would not find any flowers in very grateful to us for curing her, and the Andes in July and August, which asked if we had anything to cure her proved to be incorrect, and a request mother, who had a pain in her from him to search for the seed of an shoulder. We did not have anything obscure variety ofpotato. This was to very suitable, but we gave her a tube assist him in WIlting his third book on of hydrocortisone, which we had for potatoes. skin eruptions, and gave instructions Another problem arose before we left not to take it orally. We did not go England, because my two cameras, back again, so we do not know wide-angle lens, and a large quantity whether it was effective or her mother of :film were stolen at Heathrow. I survived. Andreas and his wife therefore had about ten minutes to buy allowed us to take a photograph of another camera before the flight to them and their baby, a great honour Rio de Janeiro departed, for us. They took half an hour to Consequently I had to take close-up dress up in their traditional best photographs of flowers with a camera clothes, and posed outside their house. I had not previously used. The results . I sent two copies ofthe photograph to were not as good as I would have them from England: one was returned hoped for, or could have obtained marked "not known": the second one with myoId equipment, but about was not returned, so I hope that by 90% were satisfactory, On return to post or other means it found its way to the UK I found that I could not get that remote part of the Andes. any help on identifying the flowers. Incidentally we delivered a letter to Kew Gardens said I would have to tell Pamela Holt in England from Maria de them the species ofevery one, because Alvarez, the owner of the Pension their experts were so specialised. Mexico in Pelechuco. 111at defeated the object ofmy request The above experiences were very straight away since I evidently did not interesting to the members of the know, and in any event it was quite party, but my primary task in Bolivia clear that most, if not all, of my was to do a botanical survey of specimens were indigenous to the high flowers 111 the Apolobamba, to Andes, and were not the same as

'DIe YRC Bulletin 39 Summer 1999 foxglove, broom, berberis (three varieties), roses, hollyhock, pel­ argoniums, begonias, pyrethrums, mezam­ bryanthemum and petunias. I flew to Cochabamba to see a botanist there and to view the Botanic Gardens. This visit proved abortive, because the botanist was away on safari, and the Botanic Gardens were over­ grown and useless to me. Furthermore, I found the town generally uninterest­ ing, one point worth mentioning though was that it was built on the grid system, and, in parts, resembles a town of the Wild West. Our identification of birds proved to be more satisfactory. Alpine plants. TIle Alpine Gardens Most of the birds did not respond to my letter enclosing were dissimilar to those in the UK but specimens, despite the good offices of we did recognise giant coots, black a member ofthe YRC who was also a ibis, ducks of various descriptions, member ofthe Alpine Garden Society. including torrent ducks, honey Cambridge Botanic Gardens did buzzard, condors, black and white succeed in growing two seed varieties, Andean geese, humming birds, and but could not identify them. At this mountain caracaras, Further stage I gave up, but I have a catalogue information is included in David with photographs of 48 specimens, Martindale's ornithological report in details of their habitat, and pressings Appendix 8 of the expedition report ofabout twenty flowers. published in 1989. On descending to about 12000 feet, for instance at Pelechuco, and Cochabamba at about 2500 feet, there were a number of flowers identical or nearly so to flowers in this country, including marigold, Californian poppy,

'010 YRC Bulletin 40 Summer 1999 A Short Walk in the Alan Kay A chance remark can sometimes often act as a 'trigger', setting off a whole sequence of quite different thoughts and events, and when David Smith casually mentioned that he had received a brochure about Greek holidays from Filoxenia, a firm run by our Club member Simon Stembridge and his family, in my mind's eye I immediately saw blue sky, warm dry arranged for us - all we had to do was rock and distant sandy beaches, and enjoy the holiday. many other seemingly unattainable The walking part ofthe trip was in the things. range, between the coastal At the time, we were making our way town ofAstros and Sparti. These are south from Cape Wrath, a week or so largely limestone hills, rising to 6500 before mid summer's day, 1998, we feet, and our guide was an Athens hadn't seen a patch of blue sky for based surveyor by the name of days, a westerly gale was blowing and Christos. He would make an excellent the ground was completely water YRC member what better logged; ideally we should have been compliment can there be! He did all walking in wellington boots, such the route finding, far from easy in the were the conditions for most of the rugged, broken terrain, he described in Whit holiday backpacking trip. detail the local history, both natural and political, he pointed out buildings I fairly soon contacted Simon of particular historic or architectural Stembridge and set out the type of interest, he introduced us to village holiday that Julia and I were wanting ­ mayors, took us into monasteries some time in the mountains, either where we were always well received, camping or staying in villages, in a and he and a colleague did all the fairly quiet and remote area; we didn't cooking! want to carry more than a day sack, so some form of SUPPOlt would be We met Christos at Astros and drove needed, and just as important, we to the village of Ano , calling wanted a few days of sightseeing and en route at the delightful small absorbing some Greek sun and monastery of Loukous. From Ano warmth. Doliana we walked over high semi wooded heathland which for the most Simon and his collegues provided the part was quite trackless, and down perfect answer - ten days in the through mixed woodland to Kastri. Peloponnese, the mainland of Greece Here we stayed at a small guest house, south ofCorinth. Flights taxis hotels , , and dined "Greek style" i.e. very late, and apartments, village houses, in the local tavema, along with most camping gear and guides - all were ofthe otherinhabitants ofthe village.

The YRC Bulletin 41 Summer 1999 FILOXENIA LTD Explore the beauty ofthe Greek mountains Filoxenia, owned and run by Suzi Stembridge and YRC member Simon Stembridge, is a small specialist travel company featuring Greece. Filoxenia literally translated means 'Friend of Strangers' or 'Hospitality'. The company can tailor-make almost any kind of holiday in Greece either for individuals or for small groups (mini YRC Meets consisting of Members and friends for example). Activity holidays include: walking, mountaineering, river rafting and kayaking, bird watching, painting, archaeology, botany, horse riding and even skiing in the winter. Walking Holiday areas include the Pindus range in northern Greece including Metsovon and the stunning Zagoria region and the Vikos Gorge. Here we work with the Egnatia Epirus Foundation whose group leaders and staff are hand­ picked professionals in activities ranging from rock climbing to Byzantine history and are dedicated to preserving the heritage and the environment ofthe region. In the Peloponnese, we organise walking holidays in the Pamon range in conjunction with Atropos Tourism (see Alan Kay's article). They follow the old mountain trails and offer three or four day trips in small groups staying in village rooms or houses. The emphasis is on rural culture and nature and one of their trips can easily be combined with a seaside location for the rest ofthe holiday. In the Mani area ofthe Peloponnese, the owner of one of our quality properties in Kardamili will lead walks in the Taygettus range, but you return to the samebase each night. Other areas suitable for activity holidays (guided or unguided) include the beautiful Pelion region on the east coast of the mainland and further north, the Mount Olympus National Park, or in north eastern Macedonia, the Rodopi National Park with its unique forests and the omithologically rich Nestos River. For further information or to request a Filoxenia 1999 brochure: Call Sun or Simon Stembridge on 01422 375999, or write to: Filoxenia Ltd, Sourdock Hill, Barkisland, Halifax HX4 OAG. (When you phone or write, please mention you are a YRC Member)

From Kastri we walked next day earnest. Much ofthe ascent was both through a forest ofwalnut trees, along trackless and steep, but eventually we a series of intricate forest paths down came to an alp where a shepherd was to the busy village of Agh. Petros. staying whilst tending a flock of We dined well, had a siesta, then sheep. His shelter was made of a began the ascent of Mount Parnon, tarpaulin covered with a few branches, passing the large monastery of and his provisions were little more Malevis, when the climb began in than a few tins of food and a larger

The YRCBulletin 42 Summer 1999 thing, we just sat and absorbed this up in her eyes as she spoke of them, wonderful scene for an hour or more. and of her life in the village. Most graciously and charmingly she served After a quick descent to camp and an us refreshing green tea, and with early lunch, we were off again, over a Christos as interpreter we enjoyed an series of contorted limestone ridges hour or so in the company of this and spurs, then into a forest where we lovely lady. descended a long gully ''Tarzan'' style for about 2000 feet, clambering over a To see and experience rural Greece at jungle of fallen branches, jumping the its best, my recommendation is to go intermittent stream, clambering down to Platanos, stay in a village house and or round outcrops of rock, but all walk around the village and the nearby good fun. Sanity returned when we forest for a couple of days. Do, found a series oftracks leading in the though, tread slowly and carefully, it direction we wanted, and these were is too wonderful to want to rush, tracks used by the local workmen Simon had arranged for us to spend when tending and halvesting the trees the last few days in an apartment on in the walnut forest. Eventually we the coast at Poulithra, an hour's drive came to the village of , to the south of Astros. From here, in located the taverna, and drank cool a hired car, we explored more isolated' delicious juice and ate ice cream until villages and secluded bays, visited our thirsts were slaked; we even met monasteries which were perched high two tourists here, the first we had seen on mountain ledges, and the rest of since starting the walk. the time simply ate delicious food and We went on to the superbly situated watched the world go by. village of Platanos and stayed We shall be returning to the overnight in a village house. The Peloponnese just as soon as we can, washroom and loo were in a shed and I can strongly recommend the down the garden and the room area and the services of Filoxenia, furniture consisted of a wooden bed their main agent in the Peloponnense, and a mattress and a wooden chair, Yannis Georgidakis, and Christos our but nothing more was needed. guide, to any YRC member (and My most cherished memory of this partner) who might want to see the short sojourn in Greece is of this best of "non tourist" Greece. village. Situated high on a mountain ridge and surrounded by walnut forest, it has about 300 inhabitants, headed by an elected mayor and secretary. It depends on the harvest from the walnut trees for its existence, and life seems to be blissfully uncomplicated. Christos introduced Julia and myself to an elderly lady whom he knew (he seemed to know everyone) and we were invited to take tea in her house. She showed us photographs of her children and grandchildren and of her late husband, tears of emotion welling

The YRC Bulletin 44 Summer 1999 Expedition Diary May 16 Dan was very restless last night and 1957 - Nepal so, I too, had a disturbed night. There Maurice F. Wilson were the usual injections to be given, so it was 7.45 am before we got away. May 15 Tenpathang Steep slopes through the woods led to All was bedlam this morning. When I to an easy traverse interspersed with emerged from the tent, I found that all an excellent staircase ofrock. Then, it the village had turned out to witness was back again to the woods and our goings-on but, in fact, only half steep paths. The stretcher bearers the porters arrived. Such are the were slow today but, then, it was a bit attractions of family life! Moreover, of a bind. Now, we were getting people kept turning up in ones and excellent views of Dorje Lakpa and twos for medical attention. There was Yam-bi-cho, (The Great White the usual chatter, which I could not Peak.)' decipher. In fact, only by moving We seemed to take a long time to from box to box and almost hoisting it reach water but, eventually, came out on to a man's back, could I get them on to a beautiful plateau surrounded moving. It was 9.30 am before I left by Rhododendron bushes. It was a the site and, 10 and behold, down by perfect camp site and, at a slightly the river there was another blarney higher level, is a small lake. We put going on. It appeared that one man up our tents here and revelled in the was needed to carry the stretcher­ position. In addition to the usual bearers' food. This seemed cigarettes ration I gave each of the reasonable enough, so we finished up porters a flake of pipe tobacco and a with fifteen porters, altogether. piece of toilet paper (with this they Getting Lakpa across these surging rolled their cigarettes). One of the rivers is always a great attraction. We boys tidied up the outside of our tent left the liver about ten am and were and festooned it with Rhododendrons. soon committed to velY steep and A storm is in progress over the Jugal thickly wooded slopes. I seemed to Himal and we are on the fringe of it. lose sight ofthe rest and felt quite cut The evening is improving but by no off I could hear no sound of the means settled. I sat out until it others. So, I kept strictly to the ridge became too cold. The porters made and, after two hours, came out on to a their home in some disused huts about little plot of land. I was pleased to two hundred yards away. It is very see, just a short way ahead, Pemba lovely here and I shall be sorry to chatting to a group of 'residents'. I leave this place. was only the third man to have arrived, The others did not appear for nearly an hour but, meantime I had 1 I had an earnest conversation here, received a delicious bowl ofmilk. We with a group of locals and porters. camped amid lots of cow muck and They called it 'Yam-bi-cho' there was no water nearby. After (phonetically). I think it was the dinner, helped to fashion splints for Scottish Ladies' Expedition of 1955 Lakpa's leg and dressed it with fresh who gave it the English name. bandages.

The YRC Bulletin 45 Summer 1999 Faces into the snow and away we went. Past Snow We couldn't see into the driving snow but Derek Smithson we all knew the hills and looking back gave us familiar views. Some time later Don't believe everything you hear about and colder and wetter we found ourselves the early meets at Low Hall Garth. The on top of a small buttress that we all knew Elsan never did freeze and always was a did not exist on the route to LHG. Out stinking messy business even in the came the compasses and the elder hardest frosts we had years ago. In those statesmen said we turn right and Cliff had days the greatest fear was that the road the temerity to say we should turn left. I conditions would prevent our arrival and simply said I was going downhill to where there are many tales about cars, drivers it was warmer and then decide where to and snow. But this Club is about go. Cliff came with me and the other two mountains and such things, not motor went their own way. As we descended we cars. found we were in Grains Ghyll above One year we went to the meet in Cliff Seathwaite in Borrowdale, but we did not Fielding's 1938 Morris 8 which was then recognise it in the deep snow until we saw nearly twenty years old. This enables me the Stocksley Bridge. We had a vision of to guess the year because it was before I a fire and cups of tea at the Edmundson's owned a car. So it must have been 1956 at Seathwaite, but the fire had not been lit. or there abouts with plenty of snow and As we finished our tea, feeling still colder snowing hard on the Saturday morning. from sitting still, there was a clatter of Cliff and I got away early with an eye on nailed boots in the passage and our SE Gully on Great End. I still had a erstwhile companions appeared. hemp rope but I think we would be using There was some discussion about crossing Cliff hawser laid nylon. A couple of Stake Pass in the dark without torches in slings and one ice axe each, with a pick the continuing storm but intelligence designed for cutting hand or foot holds. prevailed and we caught the bus to We wouldn't have crampon because they Keswick where the pubs were just were not considered necessary. opening and drank rum until we could get So off we set. All geared up with the a bus for Coniston. I also clearly snow on our backs as we walked to Great remember how very cold I was on the bus. End. We knew the crag so finding the Bus heating was much poorer or non­ climb was no problem fortunately since existent in those days and my woollen we found we were being watched by two 1ongjohns and cotton windproofs were eminent members, Stanley Marsden, soaking wet. We walked from the main. President and Jack Hilton, Past President. road and opened the door into a warm hut They continued to watch as we struggled where our friends were sitting enjoying a with the initial pitches. There was plenty good meal without a single thought for of snow and enough of it compacted but it those lost in the storm. was the new snow that caused the From this you can gather that the problem. I remember being part way up a essentials of the Club have not changed pitch when first I couldn't see for the even if the weather has. These were the powder pouring down the gully and then I Dermis Driscoll meets during which he couldn't breathe because of its density. It started the fashion for communal catering. is a situation to remember; like first they We had a coke stove in the living room put the light out and then create a which also heated water and another vacuum, and in those days to fall off was cylindrical one in what is now the unacceptable as well as dangerous. At the bathroom, then a drying room. The water end of the pitch I found I was in pain with heating system was so good, or the hot the life coming back to my hand. We tank so small, that water had to be run off abandoned the climb and joined Stan and in the night to stop the water boiling and Jack for the walk back. making a terrible din.

The YRC Bulletin 46 Summer 1999

Turn South though aud after one and a half miles you reach The Old Man of Coniston. If like me, you are loathe to retrace your steps you can descend either ofthe routes into Coniston and take on refreshment to fortify you for the two and a halfmiles of on or near road walking to get to Above Long Crag, Wetherlam, Derek Smithson and David Hick Tilberthwaite to pick up the track to the ford a steady ascent along a badly defined and home. ridge ofLong Crag brought us to the Alternatively descending the Miners' higher fellside which slackens just Track to below the Coppennines before the top ofWetherlam Youth Hostel there is a track over the In rough weather, blowing in from the col between Wetherlam and the south west, I have used a line like this Yewdale Fells, called Hole Rake, to keep out of the worst of the wind which descends by Tilberthwaite Gill. until the summit is reached. A little further down, by Miners Bridge a path round to the other Less sheltered is to follow the crest Coniston Youth Hostel at Far End past the quarries above Betsy Crag to heads north and over the Yewdale arrive at the broad col before going Fells to Tilberthwaite. In either case over the upper part of Birk Fell to the extra ascent, for me, is worth it Birk Fell Hause, where the path up simply to keep away from the roads. from Tilberthwaite joins the route, and up Wetherlam Edge. Descending from The Old Man by the Miners' Track, while you are well On the Sunday we followed a route on above Brim Fell, two other minor the sunny eastern side, below Betsy variations can be spotted provided you Crag, which traversed high above are free ofcloud and mist. Tilberthwaite. It then swung almost north onto a flat area before ascending The higher of these leads from Low Hawk Rigg to Birk Fell and up Water to Levers Water and is a feint Wetherlam Edge. path on a narrow, green broken terrace across the crags of Brim Fell. Having arrived at the top of Getting started on it from the outflow Wetherlam the obvious next spot is of Low Water needs the small act of Swirl How. From there though to faith of setting off in the right turn north means either an early return direction and it will fall into place as down Wet Side Edge and Greenburn the terrain reduces the options for or a messy round of one or more of you. At the other end, Brim Fell End, the Wrynose Fells and Lingmoor Fell. the grassy slopes have no real path Possibly because I invariably go over though there is the terrace to aim for if these in foul weather they then never you are heading up the fell. hold much ofan attraction for me.

The YRC Bulletin 49 Summer 1999 Rake. This then takes you back to Tilberthwaite, Ifit is winter almost certainly you will finishin the dark. This was the case for George Spenceley and I this January. Lingering on the tops enjoying the sparklingly clear views we overtaken by the gathering gloom before we climbed out of the Coppermines area towards

':.:. , ...: .... :.. Tilberthwaite, It was pitch George Spenceley looking out from Brim Fell, January, 1999 black and starlit by the time we gained Hole Rake.

Heading down from Levers Water The hut was :filled outflow there are a couple of ways to conversation, a spectacle-misting fug avoid the obvious paths. One is and with diners enjoying their third heading east and slightly rising over course by the time we arrived, We the shoulder of Kennel Crag then joined a select second sitting an hour steeply down to an obvious raised later and agreed that our tour was a incline left over from the mining days. superb day. The second is to take the path down The next day George joined HalTY by the outflow but look out for added Griffin who knew the route below up aqueduct going off left to the east Brim Fell and thought himself its then north. Follow this and it arrives original discoverer. We can each near the foot ofthe incline. discover these variations for ourselves The Red Dell track can then be either by close inspection of the followed down for a few hundred detailed maps or having an eye for the metres before an indistinct path makes landscape on a clear day. There must a gradually rising traverse into Hole be dozens more waiting out there.

The YRC Bulletin 50 Summer 1999 Lowstern Hut 2 F. David Smith In the number 30 edition ofthe YRC Journal Cliff Downham gives the background and activities that went into obtaining and refurbishing of our Lowstem hut. It was in a period of great activity above and below ground. This did not stop members light across the age decision to build a new hut that we range and from all over the north of could be proud of, no cutting corners England from giving their weekends, this time. Peter Swindells took over week after week, to the work of the presidency and masterminded the reconstruction. These working funding. He knew just how to extract weekends provided a remarkable money from members and succeeded bonding ofmembers and indeed it was in areas where others would not have a very happy period in the Club's dared to put pressure. Another history. Most of the work was done former president, Bill Lofthouse, was 'on the cheap' and the facilities of our architect and he and Ron members' employers were stretched to Goodwin took on the task of the limit. organising the work A local builder, Martin Pettiford was engaged and There was much talk in the late slowly an impressive new hut emerged seventies and early eighties about constructed in local limestone. Much obtaining a hut in the Lake District that we would own. In Dennis Armstrong's presidency the topic was increasingly voiced. He, using the great authority of his office, managed to pursuade the Committee and .members that our attention should be focused on Lowstem as Yorkshire was our natural home. The old iron clad hut was getting the worse for wear and increasingly difficult to maintain in a satisfactory condition. One warden and his wife spent a good deal of their spare weekends cleaning the place. Potholers straight from the underworld have the greater priority of cleaning themselves. The question was should we do a massive refurbishment of the old hut, perhaps timber cladding it, or build a new one? A meeting at the hut, when several past presidents attended, made the

The YRC Bulletin 51 Summer 1999 of the interior work was undertaken by members. The new hut was duly opened by past president Stanley Marsden, himself a keen potholer in his day, on the after dinner meet in 1988. It was a splendid hut but on club meets it was found to be difficult to cater for large numbers. During the early days of Tim Josephy's presidency consideration was given to extending the hut. John Whalley large new bunk room, also a sluice was given the difficult task of room and tackle store has been designing an extension that would provided for the potholers for them to blend with the existing building. wash and store their equipment. There is little doubt that he has The opening on the after dinner meet succeeded admirably. The in 1998 was performed by Mrs Joan imagination and persuasive qualities of Farrer who in her delightful speech Albert Chapman added to this success, linked the Club with the Farrer family notably in the provision of a beautiful and their close association over the oak floor and impressive open century. A quite superb buffet was fireplace. A forward thinking provided by Mrs Sammy Chapman treasurer had ensured that there would that would not have been out ofplace be money in the bank. This together at the Ritz. The hut or loather with numerous gifts and loans from clubhouse is now used for other Club members ensured that a start could be activities such as committee meetings made. and meeting to plan the ever The more lavish approach would not increasing overseas expeditions have been possible had it not been for another of Cliff Downham's dreams a legacy from Cliff Downhan and a for the Club that has taken shape. second one from Nellie Downham. In their memory, and especially to Cliff's enormous contribution to the effective running ofthe Club and his undoubted love of the Yorkshire Ramblers' Club it was decided to name the new common room, 'The Downham Room'. This was calved into the ancient oak mantelpiece by Howard Humphreys. Upstairs there is a The new Lowstern Extenson (Photo Richard Gowing)

The YRC Bulletin 52 Summer 1999 ":'~ wise to risk a night out with the ~ A Fairy Tale • J hardy sheep. ,------, And so they reached home, all agreeing that it had been a very Dear Derek, pleasant day. As we are unlikely to see each other But then; Calamity!! lior a rather indeterminate time I thought I would sendyou a little fairy S.B. discovered that he had lost his tale I heardrecently. penknife. Here goes, as well as I can remember Pockets were turned inside out. .. it. twice; rucsac emptied, sandwich box searched and the kitchen scoured. The Clifford car (Smartie's car we had been using) was scrutinised minutely. All to no avail. The time was December, long long Now this may seem a lot offuss about ago (well, not all that long ago, but a simple penknife but S.B. was Ve1Y fairy tales are always long long ago.) attached to it. It had been a present It was a sunny frosty day as all from his wife many years ago and it December days should be, and three had served him well, and had endured friends, "Speedy", "Smartie" and many adventures, having been lost and "Scatter Brains" - S.B. for short ­ found again time after time. were wandering around the mountains Sometimes, S.B. wondered ifit talked as was their habit; a habit not to to the fairies when it was lost. It was a everyones' liking but nevertheless I good knife. am reliably told is Ve1Y good for body, S.B. thought very carefully for a long mind & soul. time and finally decided that he had When I say "wandering" they were last used his knife when sharing out not lost, good gracious no, they were the aforementioned choc.bar, and highly skilled and practised in their when replacing the knife in his pocket craft. it must have slipped into the grass. However by mid-afternoon, having He became more & more forlorn walked far and wide they sat down by thinking of his poor knife lying in the a stone wall sheltering cold wet grass with, by from the wind and now, a covering of finished their last snow, and his distress sandwich and cup of became so grave that coffee, and S.B. shared a another friend, one chocolate bar between Archie by name, also them. well versed ill They did not linger, as mountain lore, the winter days were promised to take him short and they still had a to look for it, and so considerable distance to they set offin Archie's walk to reach their car car, but unfortunately and they were far too the weather was now frosty & snowy and the

The YRCBulletin 53 Summer 1999 ... Arthur Craven, Cliff Cobb and his brother-in-law, Terry Temple. Photograph by Derek Smithson steep mountain road so treacherous Carefully zipping up the pocket with and a black cloud descending low over the knife safely inside he celebrated the mountains that they had to tU11l with a Mars bar and a cup of coffee back for home. before retuming to his car with a jaunty step (well, as jaunty as he could S.B. was now becoming resigned to manage.) his loss; but not quite! When he reached home he did a most Two days later the morning was blight unusual thing for him, he celebrated a & sunny and he decided to try once second time with a glass of some more, this time by himself: & so, gold-coloured liquid. fortified with coffee and Mars bars he set off and soon without difficulty he And S.B. was happy once more. reached the previous pic-nic spot. The It is believed that he will now place grass had a light covering of snow, the knife in a and S.B. carefully scraped this off glass case, with with his gloved hand, but after several a brass plate minutes his heart was sinking. recording its No luck. Then as a last resort he adventures. decided to try with his walking stick While this is with its steel point. Again no luck and definitely a fairy he was just about to walk away when tale the author is - "tinkle-tinkle". His stick had found reliably informed his knife, little the worse for its night that the salient out. S.B. decided the fairies had been features are all looking after his knife and had guided true. his stick to it.

The YRC Bulletin 54 Summer 1999 morning on the somewhat tenuous Inbhirfhaolain excuse that they haven't helped to fill it! and all that! However the object which made the hut such a joy to stay in was the pot Derek Bush bellied stove which once alight dried Over the years the YRC have held all the soggy clothes and was the focal many winter meets in Scotland very point around which the fellowship and often over the Easter holiday period. 'bonhomie' of which the YRC is so However it was not until 1970 that the renowned was revealed in its true Glen Etive February meet commenced glory. The Grampian Club at one and quickly became a fixture in the stage took it out and replaced it with Club's meet list. an electric fire. It was in many ways a disaster and happily they have now It came about because of Cliff installed a multi-fuel stove which is far Downham's friendship with Don more suitable for the hut's needs. Green of the Grampian Club. A contributory factor must also have We all tend to think that when we been the improved road network were young the summers were always which gave motorway or dual lane long and hot and the winters hard, standard driving, from either side of frosty with plenty of snow. There the country, almost to the edge of the developed a theory that in the month Scottish Highlands. Once past of February a high pressure system Crianlarich you began to feel you were built up over north west Scotland almost there. which always coincided with the Glen Etive meet. In the first ten years, ill those early days the hut was lit by looking back at the meet reports five gas light giving it a certain ambience out of the ten were described as which most members agree has been 'good' to 'excellent'. The years from lost with the advent of fluorescent 1980 to 1989 also produced the same lamps. The kitchen was small and ratio but with three consecutive years cramped, it still is, but the good nature 1985-1987 giving excellent weather. of all the members ensured that This is how the myths of constant everyone got their meals even if good weather build up. We have not sometimes it was nearly ten o'clock at had good weather for a full weekend night. The simplest expedient was on the meet since 1987. It is quite often to go to the pub early, usually remarkable how much was achieved on the way back from a hard day out despite the weather and the writer can and wait for the scrum to clear. Water perhaps think of maybe only one was, and still is, brought from the weekend when he did not get stream and again the YRC is seen at somewhere near a top, if not exactly its best as members ensure that the on it! Very often the trip was saved by water containers are seldom empty for a Munroe being bagged somewhere to long. The Elsan situated in a small the south on the way back home on outhouse is a sight to behold! There the Sunday. are two classes ofmembers who go to Glen Etive - those who use the Elsan During all this time the average and those who go with a spade into attendance was twenty eight which in the bushes. The latter are the ones the majority of years would be higher who refuse to empty it on our last than the Club average attendance for

The YRC Bulletin 55 Summer 1999 all meets. Excluding guests the Under the heading of Supply... ''In the average was twenty two. On two case of food each member's or occasions there were forty two people guest's wife assumes she must provide and we only fell below twenty once, in for her spouse and also for the rest of 1975, when there were nineteen. the party. In the case of drink each member tends to hope that the others Enough of statistics, Inbhirfhaolain is will bring something with them." all about climbing mountains in winter conditions and the comradeship which "Under the heading of equipment we follows after a hard day out on the should perhaps mention that no hills. The first meet in 1970 was apparent loss was suffered by the attended by twenty six members and member and guest who sploshed guests including Paul Nunn who was a starkers in the gloaming in the stream guest of our member Clive Rowlands. above Alltchaorunn" Members may recall that Paul should No prizes for guessing who the have been our Chief Dinner Guest in member was! 1995 but was killed tragically in the Himalaya a few months previously. Under the heading ofAccounts... "We Six of the members on that first meet had hoped to provide a set ofaudited attended our recent 1999 meet. accounts for the meet, but the member to whom the duty ofcollecting the fees Reading through the twenty plus meet had been delegated explained to us reports available to me I realise there that since he did not know at which are far more erudite members than hotel he and his guests would call on myself and I make no excuse for the the way home, nor what they would unashamed plagiarism which follows eat, our suggestion was as I quote verbatim from those impracticable!" reports, 1974 "Sunday was an appalling 1971 ''Do not get up so much speed day-heavy continuous rain and low that you burst out ofthe lowlands into cloud. Masochists and the 'two day the land of the early closing petrol only men' set out to test waterproofs stations without so much as a glance to the limit and Buchaille Etive Beag at your gauge" and the volcanic plug on which Written by the late and sadly missed, Stirling Castle John Gott, - when four ofus spent the stands were two of the tops reported night huddled in our sleeping bags in climbed!" Author unknown! the vicinity ofTyndrum petrol station. 1975 (Mike Hob son) To help 1972 Written in the form of a explain the following paragraph the consultant's report by Gordon meet leader was John Gott. Humphreys. Under the heading of Introduction... "We have concluded "The hillside was typically Scottish. that the problems revealed are vel)l Foreshortened from across the valley serious but that any attempt to solve and dwarfed by surrounding heights, them would so radically alter the it seemedjust a short barrier towards character of the Club that the the attainment of greater things. changes would be totally Closer acquaintance brought home unacceptable to the members" the cruel realities. Although at an apparent angle ofseventy degrees, the

The YRCBulletin 56 Summer 1999 ground still had the characteristics of another peripheral community. Fate, best quality bog. Heather, rocks and in the shape of the Glasgow Police grassy tussocks abounded and far eventually took a hand the party from being a short barrier the slope being stopped by a patrol car and the was interminable. Since 'contouring' Meet Leader accused of speeding. or 'tacking' do not form part of the Some sort of smooth talking finally Meet Leader's vocabulary, the party produced a caution rather than a was proceeding directly upwards at a booking and (more to the point) pace which was beginning to tell on concise directions on how to escape some members within a hundred feet the City's clutches. Landfall back in of starting to climb. Enveloped in a Cheshire, was made by the writer at cloud ofsteam, blinded by sweat and about 4 a.m. andfor those interested ­ with a high pitched ringing in my ears he didn't get his bath until Monday I gradually became aware that words night." were being addressed in my direction What a classic weekend. It sounds like - 'I've been looking through the something out of "It will be all right records, and its been a long time on the Night" since we had a meet report from you etc Life at times, even with the 1978 (Michael Smith) "Sunday saw YRC can plumb the depths." many members heading homewards, What follows gets worse:- "This but several decided to 'bag a quick report would not be complete without Munroe '. Parking at the head ofLoch mention of the epic return made to Etive. the route up Beinn Fhionnlaidh civilisation by the Meet Leader and skirted the forest, went across the his followers. Driven by the need for frozen Lochan na Fola and a direct petrol to travel by Loch Lomond route up a line that (as one member rather than Stirling (See reference to informed us) could not be called a petrol in 1971 report) they were lost gully as it only had one steep wall. In in Glasgow for an amazing hour and any case it lead straight to the top a half. During this time, strange though some ominous sounds were villages on the outskirts were visited. heardfrom the partially consolidated There, instructions were given on the snow. The conditions were worse, correct way to escape southward and cloudy and more Windy but a little the luckless party would plunge once milder. (The writer is referring to the more into the bright lights only to previous two days weather) Various emerge, still hopelessly lost, in yet descent routes met on the forest road by Allt nan Gaoirean. Snow conditions and the length ofthe route meant that this 'quick trip' took the whole ofthe day."

1979 (Author Unknown) Describing' a 'trip' over the Aonach Eagach "The Eagach party ofthree arranged a car trip with two others traversing from west to east. The snow

The YRC Bulletin 57 Summer 1999 conditions, the blue sky, the warmth vehicles which did ease both the of the sun provided near Alpine sleeping and eating situation. ss conditions on the slopes ofthe Devil's Staircase. The ridge itselfwas not so 1983 (Duncan Mackay) good as last year , but presented We arrived at the hole in the wall at unique problems demanding great 6.00am. The ground was frozen hard, care and concentration. The exposure everyone was asleep and you could was impressive and was a continual just make out a faint white glow from reminder that the mountains are never the ridges. The sense of anticipation conquered,merely climbed" and excitement was immense - great The report goes on to say... "The things were expected this weekend. west/east party enquiring of some 1984 (Adrian Bridge) Late on the Scots as to the better of Mo routes 16th some members arrived and over a pinnacle advised that only one marvelled at the new comprehensive way would go and that it was electrical system, but quite failed to 'Hobson's Choice '. They were not to make even a single light work! The know they were addressing Mike next morning it was discovered that Hobson!" the electricity supply hadn't quite 1980 (Howard Humphries) Writing reached the hut! about a beautiful day on a Saturday... Many members and guests met up in "However the day was not over. The the Clachaig hotel bar for a drink or stars were so bright that after dinner two on the way back to the hut. the Buchaille Etive Beag was bagged Amongst a time of much merriment on a round trip of Mo and a quarter two small incidents are worth hours!" recording. (}ne was the refUsal of a barman to make a shandy with his 80/­ If my memory selves me correctly I beer, far i too good to sully with think Peter Chadwick, Peter Elliott lemonade! The other was the look on and Michael Smith made that late the face of one member who'd just evening trip. phoned his wife to say he would be Also on that meet, it was reported, a home 24 hours after he had previously new recipe for coffee au lait was tried. told her he would be. If ever a man "Use potato powder not dried milk, was nearly tumed to stone at the end serve from thermos flask with tent ofa phone it was he! peg." 1988 (David Handley) "One All I can say is that the 80/- bitter indefatigable Andean aspirant tasted better than ever that evening! completed a thirty mile overnight trek from Kinlochleven to a bothy north of 1981 (David Smith) "What makes Loch Treig and back via Loch Eilde one meet better than another is not Mol'. He arrived back just before his always easy to understand but year remaining kit was to be distributed after year Inbhirfhaolain draws among 'friends '." people anything front 300 - 500 miles. This year was no exception when no " Desperate for a happy ending the fewer than 42 people crammed into Lancashire contingent stopped for the cottage which offers 11 beds. afternoon tea at the Ben Lawers Many people brought tents or Dorma- Tourist centre but were persuaded to

The YRC Bulletin 58 Summer 1999 make a serious attack on Meall Mam no little pressure from members, our Tarmacham, Beinn Mam Eachan and, President has very generously agreed for two members, Creag No Caillich. to hold a 25th anniversary meet on the And I quote 'an excellent ridge, hard equivalent date next year. It is already snow, barely visible footprints, booked! We are planning to provide crunchy ice, blue skies and extensive some form of cooked meal on the views... Was this really the same Saturday evening and we would hope weekend?" all the regulars will be able to attend. Preference will be given to the older 1989 (Derek Bush) "The member members to occupy the bunks! from Cambridge (he who always comes to Glen Etive) was found Finally just in case you haven't got the wandering down the road to the message let me leave you with two cottage on Saturday morning having quotes by David Handley from the come lip on the overnight sleeper. He 1977 and 1988 reports respectively. stayed the night and accepted a lift to "The Glen Etive meet has a Vel)) Bridge ofOrchy on Sunday before he distinct character. The solitude and travelled south on Monday. Such is surrounding prospects of the lure ofGlen Etive." Inbhirjhaolain are unique by any And now to bring this article up to standard and we are again gratified date. We were there (in 1999) only a to the Grampian Club. Undoubtedly week ago The weather was typical of this was an exceptional meet. The the last few years but the company company, location and was, as always, excellent. I will leave meteorological rarity will have sent a description ofthe meet to the report members home with a touch of the writer Michae1 Wood. mountain magic reservedfor a few on rare occasions in Scotland It was a The cottage has been improved, more privilege anda pleasure to be there." subtle ceiling lighting, new kitchen extension, the whole ofthe downstairs "Their hut, now somewhat modified interior clad in tongue and groove upstairs, boasts electricity and a boarding. The Elsan has gone and galley more akin to a smallyacht than there is now a self composting toilet a cottage but it's the view from the housed in a stockade type watch Elsan which brings back YRC men tower attached to the 'west wing'. back year after year." The notice hanging. up in the compartment says it is one of only a few scattered around the world. We felt very honoured. Members were Acknowledgements: literally queuing up to use it! We still 11 David Smith for supplying copies have to get water from the stream and ofthe meet reports; conversations with the hut custodian after the meet indicated that the 11 The report writers one and all Grampian Club have no intention of whether quoted or not; installing a piped supply because of CD The late Cliff Downham for the problems offrost. starting the practice of meet report Research also revealed that 1999 was writing. the Club's 24th weekend at Iubhirfhaolain and because ofthis and

TIle YRe Bulletin 59 Summer 1999 l

earlier this year. This and other President's Report enterprises have elevated our caving group to a high profile in the sport. as presented at the 1998 AGM My only regret is that so far this has not resulted in more cavers wishing to 1998 has seen a continuation of the join the Club. We should lose no enterprise and variety which has opportunity to promote the facilities characterised our activities in recent and activities we have available now at years. Some of our cavers have been Lowstern. in the forefront ofinternational caving, and as usual, individuals have been Sixteen meets were organised for the ranging far and wide. At home, the Club, with a mixture of traditional fabric of Lowstern is complete and meets and innovative ones. The caving work is ongoing to equip it. meet in the Vercors was a most enjoyable week with twelve members The Iceland expedition took place in and guests attending. It has been the spring of this year, with eleven suggested that, discounting Ireland, members and guests taking part. this may have been the first official Although the primary objective of overseas caving meet. Whether this is crossing the Vatnajokull icecap was so or not, I hope it will not be the last; not achieved, partly due to the lack of caving areas tend to have something snow on the glaciers and partly due to of interest for everyone and meets of our having underestimated the task, all this kind really deserve popularity. patties had an excellent three weeks, with most people vowing to return. It is becoming obvious nowadays that Several mountains were ascended, global warming is changing our including the highest, climate and so our meets programme Hrannadalshnukur, a 2 day trip which must change if we are to make the involved a camp on the icecap. Full best of it Inevitably some of the details of all the activities are in the traditional meets will disappear but. Bulletin; suffice it to say that Iceland hopefully they will be replaced with is an unique and exciting country something better. Whilst no one wants ahnost on our doorstep- it is definitely change for its own sake, we must be worth consideration for a future meet. forward looking and prepared to experiment. Perhaps there is scope for Looking to the near future on the parallel meets to cater for those who expedition front, the 1999 South do not wish to attend specialised or American expedition is organised and overseas meets. booked. A climbing and a trekking party will fly to Bolivia in June, the As regards attendance, I do not intend climbers to attempt first ascents in the to give figures as I think they do not Cocapata range, and the trekkers to truly reflect the success of the meets. explore the Cordillera Real. I know For example, The Spring Bank meet that the next President is very keen to and the Long Walk, both excellent have a major caving expedition in the meets were reduced in numbers by the year 2000 and proposals are being Iceland expedition; the same problem raised for that. will occur next year. The Vercors meet was never going to attract as Members ofthe Club were involved in many members as a traditional a successful attempt on the world October meet. Suffice it to say that a depth record in the Mirolda Cave successful and well attended meets

The YRC Bulletin 60 Summer 1999 ------~

programme was run, with hut remember him as a towering accommodation more often over personality within the Club. A member subscribed than not. for over sixty years, he gave us unstinting service as Vice President, Turning to the Club huts. I am pleased Treasurer, President and Committee to report an upturn in receipts for member. Since writing this report, I Low Hall Garth. This has alleviated have received the sad news of the last year's problem although we are death of Pat Stonehouse last still in dispute with the National Trust Wednesday. Members will wish to over the rent. Until they fulfil their know that he took a keen interest in obligations with regard to repairs to the affairs of the Club light up to the the fabric of the building we will end. He was gentle person and a true continue to withhold a proportion of friend of the YRC. They will both be the rent. Apart from that, LHG is in sadly missed. Regretfully, I also have good condition and is continuing to to report the deaths of three other show a profit. members, Cliff Fielding, Duncan The extension to Lowstern is Brown and John White. There were complete and the formal opening will five resignations during the year, take place tomorrow. I hope as many however seven new members were of you as possible will come to see elected. Total membership now stands what an excellent job has been done. at 184, broken up as follows: Apart from the extra room inside, the Ordinary members 115 clubhouse is now well equipped as a caving centre, with a proper tackle Life members 64 store and kit washing facilities. A new Honorary Members 5 boiler has yet to be fitted, and some decorating and furnishing to be Total 184 completed but otherwise the major work is now all done. As I said last year, we owe a great debt to a number of people, in particular Albert Chapman and John Whalley for the planning and administration work, Mike Godden for the new heating system and Ian Crowther for his work on the new bunks. A major project for the future is to upgrade the electricity supply when funds allow. The winter 1998 Bulletin is the biggest yet and the quality of articles continues to be high. I am SUre you will all have noticed the improvement in picture quality- our thanks go to Michael Smith for all his efforts. Last year saw the ending of an era. Stanley Marsden died shortly after the last Dinner and although he had not been active for some years, most ofus

The YRCBulletin 61 Summer 1999 Craven Pothole Club Record Craven Pothole Club Record No. 53 January 1999 No.51 July 1998 - Lowe's' Gully It is amazing how a little detailed It was high time some proper attention to any outdoor journal turns Yorkshire folk went out to Malaysia up nuggets of interest from the past. and sorted out this gully. They In the case of this issue of the CPC weren't YRC more's the pity but I was Record there is a most interesting delighted to read that a Craven article describing an impromptu Pothole Club Party made the first descent of Gaping Gill by a couple, properly organised descent in March not in their first youth, who had only 1998. There were a dozen ever gone near Clapham to have their Yorkshiremen with a climbing/caving car serviced. background and various ancillary staff like two Malaysian National Park When the exit from Trow Gill was Wardens and a television chap name said to be as steep as Sharps Hill it ofMcDonald. took me back :fifty years to when I used to walk up Sharps Hill six The expedition worked in teams of mornings a week on my way to work. four setting things up and taking them The article was written primarily for down. Casualties were minimal the the Chapel Magazine and I am morally only serious injury being sustained by certain that the Chapel concerned Kenny Taylor as a result of objective must be the Greaves Methodist Chapel danger. After nine days the final team which is at the bottom of Sharps Hill arrived at Roberts Falls and knew they at Greaves, Lancaster. had cracked it. When they finally emerged an army of porters was Other articles of general interest are waiting to help with the gear and no­ on Norway, High Cup Nick, and one was in any doubt which way to Skye. The Skye article by Nigel walk. Graham describes some interesting I must take issue with the author" walks and deals with the impact ofthe Steve Kelley, on the history. He says news of the untimely death of the that a ten strong team of 1994 had to Princess of Wales. be rescued after twenty-one days in the gully. According to the written By the time this review appears you accounts five members completed the may have to wait to read the Record descent and, albeit starved and ill, but there are also as usual plenty of made their way to habitation. These articles ofunderground adventure. were N.C.O.s. No wonder this Also received IS an index to country has not lost a major war for publications 1932 to 1998. There is centuries. such a variety of subjects covered that Much else of interest is included in one is tempted to get on the bus and this Craven Pothole Club Record now go to the library to read all ofit before in the Club Library, the embargo comes down.

'TheYRCBulletin 62 Summer 1999 Yorkshire Gritstone Edited by Dave Musgrove on behalfofthe YMC, pp695, £18.95 h/b This is the fourteenth book dealing with Yorkshire Gritstone, The first two, Laycock's and Graham's, were published before the Yorkshire Mountaineering Club was formed. The next two were published by the Gritstone Guide Committee; Allan Allsop edited the first of these, ''Kinder, Roches and Northern Areas" and later in the decade Allsop and YM.C. Member Brian Evans produced the first Gritstone Guide devoted entirely to Yorkshire. Apart from Steve Rhodes' and Tony Barley's boulder books all subsequent Yorkshire Guides have been sponsored by the YM.C. The severe A climb on The Cow, Dkley. Brian This ''Millennium Edition" is a Church safeguards Bill Todd on the YMC's magnificent achievement. It Boxing Day meet, 1990 as reproduced opposite covers 42 major crags and 41 page 600 ofYorkshire Gritstone minor ones. There are 57 (photograph by Patricia Todd) excellent colour photos and five atmospheric black and white pictures ranging from 1895 to One reviewer cannot vouch for the 1997. The diagrams by Nigel Baker accuracy of evelY description or are new and more than adequate. historical happening but there is 100% But this is far more than a guide book; accuracy in the parts I know about. it is literature. Dave Musgrove's The first ascents which took place prose style is both entertaining and while I was there are accurately informative and it is possible to open recorded and I am pleased that one or the book anywhere and sit down and two climbs I used to lead have been enjoy reading it. upgraded. I am also pleased that my old friend John Johnson now appears Instead of a history section for each in his proper name instead of Joe crag (though there are ascent lists) Johnson as the 1989 book had him. Dave has concentrated the history into a 28 page essay which is well worth A copy ofthe book has been given to reading and of course gives the the Club and will be available from the YR.C. it's due as the first Yorkshire Librarian until the Leeds Central Club. Library is open after the repairs.

'The YRe Bulletin 63 Summer 1999 :Ib.:11.::1)1\111,'.: :,:ii:::;;;;I;IJi::.}}}::i@{!:{ Scottish Mountaineering ...... »x-... ::::::::::::::::::::~::;~:ft:::::::::::::::: Club Journal :::::::::::':::::::::::. ::::::::::::::11::::11:11::111.11111::: Vol.XXXVI No. 189 Walks in the For some unknown reason my Nidderdale Area attention focused this year on the Gwynneth Jackson and Skye section of the accident report Bill Lofthouse pages. '" Publishedby the Nidderdale Society It seems that walkers and pony Fourteen walks are trekkers fare far worse than climbers. ;,r.. included in the booklet There was a fatal accident on the . "and a number are in areas Elgol coast path and a walker which, I suspect, are not generally suffered skull, spinal and abdominal visited by YRC members. They are injuries from a falling rock. A mostly five or six miles with the odd woman suffered spinal injuries after nine mile one thrown in. The walks being thrown off a Shetland pony. are all in the Nidderdale area but omit Climbing accidents included two the hills at the head ofthe Dale and, as leader falls, one near Neist where a result, visit places not in the fell­ shoulder injuries were sustained and walkers' normal itinerary, but none the the other on a snow obscured Sgurr a worse for that. Try some of them, I Mhadhaldh where a leader pulled a can assure you that you will be loose block onto his own leg. pleasantly surprised, Its enough to make you take up All the walks are explained in a clear tiddley-winks. But of course there is and understandable way, supported by a lot more on the positive side. excellent maps and interspersed with Andrew Fraser writes a fascinating interesting historical facts. This article about the nose of Sgurr an particular book includes walks which I Fhidhleir; I believe that was first have not personally seen in any other ascended by Mike Dixon and Neville walking guide to this area. Drasdo in the early sixties; much to The theme of this book is the history Tom Patey's chagrin. Mr. Fraser also of the area which is covered in the mentions the great number of people introduction, both to the book and to who have "discovered" the Reiff sea each individual walk. The book's cliffs. A bit like Brandrith in supplementary title is In the Monks' Yorkshire. I remember Joan and I Footsteps and it can be seen why as doing two routes at Reiff in 1962, you progress through the walks. any advance? Altogether, a good companion to Articles on Ferlie Mhor and the late Nidderdale and I am confident that it AL. Bagley held my interest. provides a worthwhile means of Bagley's book " Holiday Rambles in combining history with a walk, North Wales" helped put my feet on particularly for a family expedition. the right path. Whilst the walks are not long or This is an excellent issue with a good onerous they are sufficient to prove share ofhumour. Read how the Past that there is more to walking than just President converted snow to ice to walking! secure a tent pole, and an aspirant's If you have difficulty in locating a reaction to the first step. copy, at £3, contact Bill Lofthouse.

The YRC Bulletin 64 Summer 1999 11~llllilII11!IIIJiDIII,J.IIi:tl Routes are graded with the angle, height, duration and first ascentionists Bolivia: A Climbing Guide stated. There is sufficient detail for Yossi Brain the experienced mountaineer to pick out the route and ample indication of Cordee,£12,ISBN 1-871890-48-9, 222pp, B/Wphotos exceptional objective dangers. This is. the first English language Chapters start with a short quotation mountaineering guide to all the main ranging from '30s Hermann Hess in groups of Bolivian peaks. Previous to the 1990 Louis de Bernieres' The guides either only covered the parts War ofDon Emmanuel's Nether Parts close to La Paz or the whole of the (worthwhile preparatory reading). Andes. It is thorough, well informed The publication of such a thorough and covers almost forty peaks with and lucid guide, soundly based on several routes being included on each Yossi' s extensive personal experience, ofthe more popular peaks. is sure to increase climbers' interest in The outspoken Yossi has an obvious the Bolivia and will certainly ease the enthusiasm for these peaks but is not way for them. So get a copy and go blinded by this to the inherent there soon as the infrastructure is now difficulties. His advice on the in place to make shorter hips possibility oftheft is typically sensible, practicable while the weather and putting the problem into perspective, accessibility result in minimal waste of giving a couple of solutions and precious time. explaining just where to contact the Like Yossi' s contentious and police. if necessary, Likewise his enlivening arrival on the guiding scene advice on acclimatisation does not in La Paz his. book will revitalise revel in scare stories but offers simple foreign interst in Bolivia's peaks. reassuring personal checks you can make. Straightforward and practical. His eleven page history of ascents recognises the contribution of Bolivians alongside the Europeans and Americans. Acess is fully described while the geology, flora and fauna are given enough coverage for the lay person to appreciate these aspects of the mountains. The 152 pages devoted to routes and peak descriptions cover the Apolobamba (27 pages), Real (91 pages), Quimsa Cruz (18 pages) and Ocidental (16 pages) and are fully illustrated with a photograph or sketch map seemingly on every other page. The photographs, mostly illustrative rather than aesthetic, give a strong impression of the terrain, climbing style, suitable gear and, importantly, the peaks and routes themselves.

The YRC Bulletin 65 Summer 1999 He was an archaeologist ofconsiderable distinction. His first dig was on Rocher Moss in 1957 and further fieldwork was Waiter Patrick Bowman undertaken on the Saddleworth and Marsden Moors over many years. Allhis Stonehouse work was meticulously recorded and written up for subsequent publication in 1953-1998 the journals of the Yorkshire Archaeological Society and the Greater Pat Stonehouse, bom 11 October 1913 Manchester Archaeological Society. died on the 19th November 1998 after a' long struggle against cancer, but he was His extensive finds, which number over active almost to the end. He celebrated 10,000, along with his notes and his 85th birthday on the 11th October drawings have been lodged with the 1998 with considerable style. Tolson Memorial Museum in Huddersfield. His book about the pre­ Pat's maternal Grandfather was Dr. W. History ofSaddleworth & Marsden is to H D. Ramsden who set up in General be published in 1999. Pat was a leading Practice in Dobcross 138 years ago and member of the Saddleworth Historical whose memorial stands in the village Society, taking part in many oftheir digs square. The family link with the and contributing to their bulletin. He practice continued up to Pat's retirement was also a keen geologist and bird in 1977. watcher and assisted in compiling the publication of "The Birds of Part ofhis early education was spent in Saddleworth", Switzerland and he later went up to Downing College, Cambridge where he Pat joined the YRC. in 1953 and was a read medicine. very active member for almost 30 years. A strong walker and an enthusiastic He saw active service in the 1939/45 participant in all the club's activities, he war, serving as a Captain in the Royal was not a leading climber or potholer, Army Medical Corps. attached to the but he would cheerfully follow wherever 94th Armoured Division, a heavy ack­ taken. In particular, his intitnate ack unit ofthe Eighth Army, initially in knowledge of the South Pennines was the Middle East and North Afiica and second to none. He had a number of latterly with the Scots Guards in Holland Alpine Seasons including well known and Germany, He regularly attended peaks, both with and without guides. his Regitnental Re-union in Edinburgh, He was an excellent companion on the the most recent being in 1997. He hills with his wide knowledge ofnatural maintained contact with the Services as history and his sense of humour. He President of the local section of the will be remembered for the tales of his Royal BritishLegion. exploits, both in the forces and on the hills. I suspect that they will be retold On demobilisation he returned to the for many years to come. family practice, but left to become Medical Officer of Health for For the record he was on the Committee Saddleworth based in Huddersfield. He from 1956 to 1960, Vice President 1960 eventually rejoined the practice where he to 1962 and President 1964 to 1966. remained until his retirement in 1977.

The YRC Bulletin 66 Summer 1999 find the Club in good heart. He did, however, continue to attend the Appletreewick lunches which he thoroughly enjoyed.

In the early 1980's he found it increasingly difficult to get away for week-ends and joined the Manchester Pedestrian Club, a local Club and in many ways very similar to the YRC. The M.P.C. arrange weekly walks and Pat was a very regular attender and during his membership, 'clocked' up 3575 miles. He was President in 1986 and was active with the Club well into 1998. Above all else, Pat had a very deep love of Saddleworth and its people. It is fitting that due to very dedicated care he was able to finish his days in the family home and over­ looking his 'patch' of moor. Pat at Appletrewick during February 1993 Photo by Mary Scovell Pat was a man ofvery many parts and some of us were privileged to be part of the The YRC. meant a great deal to him thread that ran through the whole. and he looked forward to receiving the bulletin which he read with interest. Pat married Margaret, nee Bames, in The last meet that Pat attended was in th 1961. Sadly she died on the 24 July Saddleworth, during October 1997, 1993. when he enjoyed a. walk over to Jdm Hemingway Laddow but most ofall was delighted to

The YRCBulletin 67 Summer 1999 Major W. (Will) Lacy 1937-1998 Will was born at Hawsker near Whitby in 1907 and died on Christmas Day 1998 aged 91. He is buried at Hawsker next to his beloved sister, Mary, He was aged thirty, working in Manchester, when he joined the YRC and with Ernest Roberts as his mentor soon became involved in the great thrust of pothole exploration with Davidson, Chubb, Armstrong and Burrows. Following a career in banking and two years as a financial consultant, travelling around the world, he moved to A deeply religious man, Will chronicled Switzerland. This gave him ample the life and times ofJesus among; many opportunity to climb many alpine peaks other varied activities including culminating, at the age ofseventy two in establishing the provenance of an ascent ofthe Dent du Midi He then Samaritan script fragments and :finding a decided that enough was enough and his probable 16th century Correggio, His mountaineering days came to an end. war service' has already been recorded Shortly afterwards he returned to live and he remained unashamedly proud of first in Robin Hood's Bay (where he Britain's colonial heritage.. purchased land to establish a wildflower He loved returning to the Club when he reserve) and later Whitby. could, was thrilled in 1997 to be made We do not know when Will first an Honorary member. For more details proclaimed "one life is not enough", of this remarkable man see his many members will remember this biography, ForwardRegardless 2. phrase, admired it, and may even have WALinford been inspired by it. I suspect it must have been early in his life for himto have set himself so many long term and difficult targets. Throughout his life polar exploration was his great passion and whilst still working he satisfied this passion with trips to the Arctic musing ''we can't all be adventurers - but..." No buts though for Will, opportunities arose and, aged 84, set off for and reached the South Pole. Twenty months earlier he had Will at the North Pole - April 1990 stood at the North Pole, the oldest man on earth to reach both poles. This feat was duly recorded by entry in the 1 Journal Vo1.VII No.24 p155 Guinness Book ofRecords. 2 Forward Regardless by Mike Morgan, Cadenon of Whitby, ISBN 0905355423

The YRC Bulletin 68 Summer 1999 William Woodward

1962 -1999.

With the sudden and unexpected death of Bill in March, the YR.C. and Yorkshire mountaineering has lost one of its most colourful characters. Bill was somewhat secretive about his age and it came as a surprise to many that in August of this year he would have been 80 years old. Bill was born in Nottingham Little is known ofhis early life or schooling up until him joining the army although Bill said little about his experiences during the war. He was in at the beginning and eventually joined No. 3 Commando. He landed in France on D-day +1 and fought at the battle for Bill in the Dolomites with Ivano Dibona Caen and went right through into Germany, After the armistice his unit was sent into Greece to take on the over long distances. He also skied communist guenillas so that abroad in Norway and Italy. Bill democratic elections could be held. wasn't the most elegant of skiers but He met and married Mavis, a Geordie always approached the slopes with at the beginning of the war. After enthusiasm. demobilisation they moved to Rotherham where Bill worked for Brightside Engineering and became a skilled welder. They walked and climbed every weekend in the Peak District and further field. I met Bill over 42 years ago when I joined the Pennine Mountaineering Club in Sheffield and Bill was their Training Officer. We soon ,became firm friends. Shortly after we were joined by Don Henderson and Keith Barker, both having just completed their national service, We climbed Bill skiing locally widely in this country and also abroad, Bill's house was a weekly meeting in the French and Swiss alps and in the place for friends usually on Dolomites. Skiing was also a favourite Wednesday and on Sunday evenings pastime started at a time when when a meal was invariable provided reaching the snows particularly in by Mavis and the days events were Scotland meant canying equipment recounted in full.

The YRCBulletin 69 Summer 1999 We joined the YR.C. in 1962 when, Because of Bill's inability to drive exceptionally, we were accepted into meant that in later years his the Club as a group of friends and attendance on Club meets diminished became known as the Sheffield Four. although having joined the Parnassus Our first meet was the seven peaks Climbing Club he remained active on long walk from Dentdale to Cray. All the hills and with them used our Club those that met Bill will remember his huts on a regular basis. storytelling - another epic, escapade He formed a close friendship with or dilemma usually recounted with Dorothy Gould having met her in the pint in hand. One ofBill's escapades is Nags Head at Edale after both had recorded in his article in the YR.C. been out walking and he spent a great Journal.! deal of time with her and her family over at Chelmorton in Derbyshire. They travelled widely to reach the hills using Dorothy's camper van as a base. Paul Nunn once said of Bill, "He can certainly wrap up a good story, have you rolling about laughing but then you would find out that what he'd actually said was quite true after all." We can all remember occasions like that. Bill remained active tight up to the end and will be remembered with fond affection by his many friends. The President Ian Crowther and number of other members represented the Club at the funeral.

Raymond Harben

Bill on Derbyshire gritstone Bill's underground visits were not all that frequent preferring climbing to potholing but he did accompany John Middleton to the Lebanon in 1968 and 1969 where some important exploration was undertaken and new finds recorded.? A pothole - Gouffre Bill- was named after him. In 1976 Bill suffered a great loss when Mavis died of cancer. Bill's resilience and the support of friends saw him through a very difficult time.

1 YR.C.J. No 321964 pps 287 - 289 2 YR.C.J. No 35 1970 pps 315 - 335

The YRCBulletin 70 Summer 1999 I knew he knew more about botanical specimens than I did, and this knowledge could be useful to identify anything worth saving. Wc drove over on the Friday afternoon, 8th January 1999, and did what was necessary to make the grave decent.

The Grave of C. D. Frankland The headstone stands firmly upright. It is of rough good solid rock, probably granite, and probably from Dear Sir, Gable itself The inscription gives the simple facts; there is no mention of Claude Dean Frankland was a member husband to, or sadly missed by... etc. of the YRC in the 1920's. A The grave is enclosed with edging photograph of him climbing on stones, and the area is paved with Almscliffe hangs in Lowstern, small stone pieces. It is one of three together with a cartoon sketch ofhim. graves located in what may be He is shown as a man of about forty, described as the North East corner of balding a little, with round spectacles the graveyard, all climbers who died which were common at that time. He on the nearby hills. seems to have been a climber of some Ken and I washed the headstone free skill, who was pushing the standards oflichen, so that the inscription can be of those days. Unfortunately he was easilyread. We cleared the grave area killed climbing on Great Gable on 31 of overgrowing weeds, and washed July 1927, I believe it was on Tophet the stone pieces. Ken identified some Bastion, and he is buried in the church plants, that grew in the interstices, and yard at Wasdale Head. these we left. We trimmed the grass I came across this grave some years around the edging stones, so that the ago when Joan and I were having a grave looked neat and tidy. Then with few days at Wasdale Head. It looked a thought for the man who had made neglected, untended. I do not know his contribution to the YRC, we what family Frankland had,' or picked up our tools and left him to the whether any are still alive. The grave quietness ofWasdale Head. does not mention that he was a The President suggested that I wrote member of the YRC but I thought if to you as the Editor, to enclose a brief others fail the club ought to care for summary ofall this in the next issue of the graves oftheir members, especially The Yorkshire Rambler, so that ifthey died in such circumstances. members are aware of Frankland's The chance came at the last LHG grave. meet. I asked Ken Aldred ifhe would With all good wishes, be willing to help me to tidy the grave. Yours, aye,

1 The obituary in the YRC Journal, Vol.V, No.18, p311 notes that he left a widow and a son and a daughter. Dennis Armstrong JeffHooper January 1999, Coventry

The YRCBulletin 71 Summer 1999 John Hemingway, Bill Lofthouse But, horror ofhorrors, our wives join and Harry Robinson enjoy a walking us from time to time, on the strict trip most weeks, generally on a understanding that they do not walk Wednesday or Thursday. Loosely us offour feet! based on the '27Club 2, but has been We make no limitation to membership compared to Last ofthe Summer Wine but consider that any 'tiger' may be - no answers for guessing who is who! overtaxed. .. by keeping down our The walks are selected by the speed. Like all good convoys we go democratic method of each person the speed of the slowest on the day, choosing a walk based on strict which can be anyone of John, Bill or rotation. As a result the outings are Hany. in Nidderdale, South Pennines or the Trough of Bowland with additional The only other criteria for inclusion is days to the Dales or Lakes. ill fact, to be able to contribute to an one trip was arranged to Paris - but intelligent debate which can be on any we were not able to find any hills! subject - this and that, but mostly the The walks are of a non-taxing nature other. and are, normally, as far as we want Our main ambition is to 'keep but usually up to nine or ten miles. clogging' and enjoying days out in the We try to select hills new to at least hills - so far, we have succeeded.. one member of the party; how many members have been to Knowle Hill or Whittle Hill or Great Bull Stones or Pott Moor? We have two or three Working with the Tasmanian pilgrimages to Pendle each year and Cavemeering Club Ged Campion and are happy to act as guides to anyone Bruce Bensley joined some good who has not visited that border caving in the extensive and island's guardian - ifany member has been that deepest system, Growling Swallet, in remiss! So in spite of the note in the south Tasmania's Florentine Valley. last Issue' we do not just go up Pendle Their visit in January, 1999, and in once a year! north Tasmania they joined another group caving in the famous Mole Creek area and later got underground

2 1927 vintage- obviously a goodyear! again in the mainland's Blue Mountains. 3 Your Hon. Editor must confess at this point that he was the sole author of the note which was attached to the last issue. Following a conversation with one of the thought it open to the possible Wednesday Club in which they enthused misinterpretation that they only manage to about a day out I put together a paragraph get out once a year. Hence their right of reply and the above. describing their day. On reading this they

TIle YRC Bulletin 72 Summer 1999 The search is on for a secure, warm, Deer have been seen in Lowstern dry temporary store for a van load of Coppice on two occasions recently by books from the YRC Library. They Harvey Lomas. In the quiet of the need to be housed while the Leed mid-week days during January they Library refurbish their normal storage were surprised to be disturbed and room and even a place lacking access were last seen running gracefully over for members would be considered. the fields towards Bowland. Suggestions for suitable storage places for about one year are urgently needed and should be made to the President. Norway has had its usual crop of March!April skiing visits with Derek Smithson near Finse, David Hall Raymond Harben was in Mallorca north ofVoss, Rory Newman moving last October encouraged by the many from hut to hut above Hemsedal reports of excellent walking in that shortly followed to the area by a island including the YR.C visit valley-based Michael Smith. The last reported in the Summer 1996 issue of was stopped while hauling YRC logo the Bulletin. The walk up to Castell kitbags, from a Stanstead baggage del Rei described in that Bulletin is not carousel, by Spitzbergen companions now possible as the Temelles valley of Duncan Mackay returning from has been closed to the public. Finse. So carry your YRC bags with Fine and warm weather allowed many pride and make newfriends. outings including walking in the Boquer valley, climbing El Fumat and Roca Blanca and down to the sea via The attention of members planning to the Cala en Gossalba on the attend the Costa Blanca meet is Formentor Peninsular where Eleanors drawn, by Richard Gowing, to an Falcons were still present. Also Puig article in the APIU issue of High Tomir. Anyone planning to climb this describing a superb ridge scramble peak and continue on following Walk above Calpe along the 4km crest of 21 in June Parker's excellent guide the Sierra Bernina. Rising to 1129m book should note that the small plain and involving an abseil and a few short at Camp'Redo is now planted with pitches of exposed Dijf, the route is trees and surrounded by a wire fence. only a 30-40 minute drive fi..om Clape. There is a gate into the plantation and one gets out by climbing the fence just by the dry bed ofthe stream. Teix was also climbed followed by the The December, 1998, issue of the Archduke's Walk. Black Vultures Dalesman, Vo1.6, No.9, includes an were seen over both peaks. More article by Graham Uney, On the Rocks birds were seen on a visit to the in Your Own Back Yard, pages 41-45, Albufera including excellent sightings which reviews rock climbing on the ofMarsh Harriers and Osprey. North Yorks Moors. Ernest Roberst, the Burrow brothers, Arthur Evans, and Maurice Wilson are mentioned. The Alpine Journal 1998 carries on pages 351 to 553 an obituary ofHany The advertisement in this issue is carried in Stembridge. return for a donation to the hut fund.

The YRC Bulletin 73 Summer 1999 YRC Ladies' Weekend Church Stretton 8-10 May 1998

This year's Ladies' Meet was held at Church Stretton, below the Long Mynd in Shropshire, with headquarters at the comfortable Long Mynd Hotel and members and their guests distributed between the hotel, the Springbank Caravan Site and B & Bs in the town. morning, to follow the route which On a fine Friday evening the first had been carefully planned and arrivals gathered at the hotel before documented by our leaders, Dennis dining variously in the hotel restaurant and Joan. Initially this followed or bar, or in various eating footpaths and minor roads contouring establishments in the town. By late the wooded lower eastern slopes of evening most of the meet had arrived the Long Mynd range to the next in the bar, with some notable additions village of All Stretton. From All to be welcomed to the usual Stretton we followed a bridle path, a attendance. short stretch of road, footpaths and open terrain to reach the crest of the Next day a patty ofabout thirty set off Long Mynd at its northern end. The from the hotel at ten o'clock on a fine gentle whaleback ridge then provided

The YRC Bulletin 74 Summer 1999 extensive views east to Caer Caradoc shod in deference to other diners. We and The Lawley and beyond them to then migrated to the ballroom to see Wenlock Edge and the Wrekin, and Alan Brown's slides of last year's west to the Stiperstones and the hills Himalayan trek from Khatmandu to ofthe Welsh border, as we followed it the Khumbu, their fine quality and towards Pole Bank, the 516m. summit great interest being sadly somewhat ofthe Long Mynd. marred by focussing problems with the projector. Being readily accessible by tarmac roads closeby, the summit was well Sunday was mostly overcast, with the populated so we moved a hundred day ending in rain, fortunately after metres or so down the south eastern our walk was complete. Again slope to find a comfortable clearing in leaving the hotel at ten, we took the the heather to enjoy our lunch and the track south below Long Mynd to view. We then followed a good path ascend the pleasant valley of Ashes south east over Round Hillwhich took Hollow to the main ridge, then us to the col between it and Grindle, descended Mott's Road towards named Barrister's Plain, then Carding Mill Valley, entering a side contoured round the south side of valley to stop for lunch below a small Grindle and the north east side of reservoir. We then followed the valley Callow, to descend to a campsite and past the old Carding Mill to the ford with a road leading to Little National Trust centre and cafe, where Stretton at the Ragleth AIms pub. further refreshment was taken and the This we sampled before following the party generally dispersed. road and a diverging track, back to the Long Mynd Hotel, having covered a Many thanks to Dennis and Joan for total distance ofsome twelve miles. arranging and leading a meet which was greatly enjoyed by all. Thirty-nine ofus sat down for a good Richard Gowing dinner, followed by a presidential address which was necessarily kept

TIle YRCBulletin 75 Sunnner 1999 Attendance: Vecors Meet

The President, Tim and Mrs Elaine 17 - 24 October 1998 Josephy The Vecors range, lying between the Dennis and Joan Armstrong Rhone Valley and the Dauphine Alps Alan and Madge Brown is an area of France rich in contrasts Derek and Yvonne Bush where the landscape affords the visitor ran and Dorothy Crowther many opportunities for a whole range rain and Sarah Gilmour of activities. What drew members to Mike and Marcia Godden the area in October of last year Richard and Elizabeth Gowing however was its limestone, for we had David Hick and Christine Marriott in the main one thing on our minds ­ ran and Una Laing cavmg. Gerry and Margaret Lee Alan and Angie Linford We based ourselves in a fairly Bill and Brenda Lofthouse spacious gite in Choranche, a village JimRusher chosen for its close proximity to the Arthur and Shirley Salmon Grotte de Gournier, a cave which lay John and Pat Schofield high on the agenda for many ofus. David and Elspeth Smith Saturday the day of our arrival was Michae1 and He1en Smith spent settling in, taking a look at the George and Sylvie Spence1ey entrance to the Gournier and basically Bill and Julia Todd enjoying the warm sunny weather, which was much appreciated as we had just left heavy rainfall and gale force winds behind in Britain. Unforttmately these idyllic conditions were to be short lived, as during the night it rained and on inspecting the local forecast the next day it transpired that the weather over the coming week was to be very changeable. The consensus of the group, as a result, was that an extensive trip inside the Gournier, a system notable for its water hazards (several cavers having drowned in it Attendance: over the years) was not immediately Bruce Bensley advisable and that a shorter trip later Ged Campion in the week might be more prudent. ran Crowther So out came the guidebooks and Dorothy Crowther alternatives looked for. Eventually the Alan Fletcher Scialet de la Combe de Fer was agreed Tim Josephy upon, seeming a likely prospect for Elaine Josephy good caving. However after spending Harvey Lomas the day locating the entrance and Mike Pitt rigging the first few pitches this Alister Renton venture was to be abandoned. This Graham Salmon was due to problems in interpreting

The YRC Bulletin 76 Summer 1999 certain aspects ofthe cave description reached whereupon we parted and the fact that if we did indeed company with the rubber boys, who persist we would have have to either carried on for another couple ofhours, purchase new ropes or 'chop up' whilst we headed back to the entrance. existing ropes, something none of us The following day found Graham and wished to do. me arriving at the entrance shaft ofthe Another contributing factor was the Glaciere de Carri, only to hear the travel time involved in getting to and receding clinking ofkarabiners. Quite from the entrance, something which apparently another· group had just had also decided us against descended. Due to the restrictive attempting the Scialet de Grand nature it was not really feasible for us Corbeau a cave which Bruce and I to double rig it so we left it for were to locate the following day. another day. Due to a collapsed tunnel in the The others occupied themselves in Bourne Gorge journey time to many either walking up to the Boumillon of the caves in which interest was resurgence which is the largest cave expressed would be greatly increased entrance in France or mountain biking involving car trips of several hours on an activity which to be honest never top ofthe time spent actually trekking really appealed. However, with the up to the entrance from the road. day so far being a bit of a By Tuesday the weather being disappointment I decided to have a go favourable a day trip into the Goumier and see what the crack was. After was decided on. First in were Tim much going over the handlebars and and Ian with Tom's ex-lifecraft extraction from bushes, much to dinghy, a necessity given the small Mike's amusement, I think I will stick lake in the entrance, followed half an to caving. It's definitely safer. hour later by Ged, Bruce, Graham, The rest of the week had Ged and Alister, Mike and myself in the Bruce retunring to the Gournier for a SS Wolverhampton a second dinghy. more extensive trip requiring a nights After much mirth in getting to the bivouac in the cave. Graham, Alister dock a rock outcrop on the far side of and myself returned to the Glaciere de the lake, a large and spectacular Carri, a fine trip, and the day after passage was gained, which we descended the Grotte de Favot a cave followed eventually dropping down with a remarkable pentangular through a boulder-choke into a stream phreatic passage known as the Grand where much merriment was to be had Tunnel which has an almost man made in attempting to stay reasonably dry, appearance about it. Tim and Ian After a while only Ged and Bruce went to the sump in the Bounrillon were able to canyon in a dry state and along with Mike and Harvey due to their donning of pontonnieres, walked to the sumnrit of the Grand a latex suit much favored by the Veymont which, at 234'1m, is, I am French, which are designed to keep told, the highest point in the Vecors. cavers completely dry in wet On the whole the week, I think, had a conditions. relaxed its a holiday feeling 'about it as The rest ofus had either to wade in or opposed to a week away from which turn back. We chose the former and one returns feeling a holiday is carried on 'soaked' for around another required in order to recover. hour until some wire traverses were Alan Fletcher

The YRCBulletin 77 Summer 1999 The 85th Annual Dinner mental stubbornness to persist in "enjoying" the rigors and risks of Whoop Hall Hotel underground exploration. Kirby Lonsdale With this in mind and in view of the weather forecast of persistent 21 November 1998 rain, the attraction of caving for the Sunday meet appealed only to The Principal Guest at the Annual the hardened few who set off to Dinner, Andy Eavis, is a renowned tackle Sunset Hole on the flanks of caver who used his speech to Ingleborough, where no doubt a demonstrate how he had used up all his close eye was kept on the rising "nine lives" surviving various accidents water levels. Brought to fame by and incidents underground. the television documentary "What Commencing a caving career in 1956 a Way to Spend a Sunday", which and Sh011ly afterwards becoming filmed the rescue of an injured statistic No. 65 in the Upper Wharfdale caver who tragically did not Fell Rescue Association log, I was survive, this classic pothole is not appreciative of how it is necessary to to be underestimated in bad keep a sense ofhumour and a degree of weather. The new Lowstern Extenson

(Photo Richard Gowing)

Arthur Salmon, AlanKay, George Spencely, Dorothy Crowther and Frank Wilkinson listen to the short opening speech

The YRC Bulletin 78 Summer 1999 The highlight ofthe day was to be the Other group s were out on official opening of the Lowstern Ingleborough, a small party made extension and members and guests then' way up Long Lane to return to were requested to ensure they returned Norber via Thwaite Lane, whilst a in good time for the ceremony. dedicated twosome sampled liquid refreshment in local hostelries A group ofa dozen or so set out from returning with the good news that the Clapham intending to do the round of new management at the Gamecock in Norber, Sulber, Maughton and Austwick has greatly improved the Oxenber, but on account of the standard of food, beers and dreadful weather cut the walk short at hospitality. Maughton and, after a briefstop at the Wet Stones spring, came down Cavers and walkers returned to Crummockdale, across the Washtubs Lowstern for 1530 hours and after a and, via Austwick and Clapham, made brief interlude everyone vacated it back to Lowstern, invigorated, but Lowstern to commence the somewhat wet. celebrations.

Judith Humphreys, Dorothy Crowther and Fiona Barr in the kitchen

Cliffs Large and Cobb, Richard Gowing, David Smith and Maurice Wilson with David Large and Derek English (behind)

John Hemmingway, Betty Lovett, Irene Barton and Janet Hemmingway with Duncan Makay and John Whalley behind

The YRC Bulletin 79 Summer 1999 After a charming speech, Mrs. Farrer company, the foul weather outside graciously cut the ribbon across the was immediately forgotten. doors into the new extension. The On behalf ofthe members and guests President thanked Mrs. Farrer on I thank most sincerely Dr and Mrs. behalf of members and, following Farrer, Sammy Chapman and all the presentations ofbouquets offlowers, hard working helpers who made the everyone made their way inside to opening of Lowstern extension and enjoy the splendid buffet and wine the celebratory buffet such a provided by Sarnmy Chapman, With resounding success. the log fire burning in the new fireplace, good food, wine and Mike Hartland

Ian Crowther, on his first day as President, Terry Temple and Arthur Craven outside presenting Sammy Chapman with flowers the hut, awaiting the opening

The moment the ribbon was cut by Mrs loan Farrer

Derek English & Albert Chapman on carving duty

TIle YRC Bulletin 80 Summer 1999 Attendance: Terry Kenny (WC) Ken Aldred Mike Kinder Dennis Annstrong lan Laing John Barton Cliff Large Bruce Bensley David Large (Guest) Derek Bush David Laughton Ged Campion Gerry Lee John Casperson Alan Linford Albert Chapman Danny Liptak lain Chapman Bill Lofthouse Alan Clare Tim Lofthouse John Clarke (BPC) Harvey Lomas Derek Clayton John Lovett Cliff Cobb Donald Mackay Jeff Cowling (CPC) Duncan Mackay Arthur Craven Dave Martindale Robert Crowther Peter Moss lan Crowther, President Nevil Newman Roy Denny John Noble (AC) Andrew Duxbury Paddy O'Neill (F&R) Andy Eavis (ChiefGuest) Martin Pettiford (Guest) Eddie Edwards Alan Pitt Arthur Evans George Postill Darrell Farrant . Peter Price John Farrer Keith Raby Bob Ferguson (Guest) Alister Renton Alan Fletcher Chris Renton David Gamble (Guest) Neil Renton (Guest) lain Gilmour Bob Richardson (SMC) Mike Godden Hany Robinson Richard Gowing Jim Rusher Michael Green (GC) Arthur Salmon Jeff Halford (Guest) Graham Salman David Hall Roy Salmon Mike Hartland John Schofield Colin Hawkins (Guest) Richard Sealey John Hemingway David Smith David Hick Michael Smith David Holmes Tony Smythe Jeff Hooper George Spenceley Barney Hopton (Guest) .David Stembridge Gordon Humphreys John Sterland Howard Humpreys Terry Temple (Guest) Jason Humphreys Bill Todd Raymond Ince Frank Walker (Guest) Brendan Jones(Guest) John Whalley Richard Josephy Frank Wilkinson Tim Josephy Maurice Wilson Alan Kay

The YRC Bulletin 81 Summer 1999 Lowstern Christmas Meet 11-13 December 1998

This meet had several firsts. The first meet for our new President. The first full meet in our newly extended cottage and the first time a full Christmas meet had been held on YRC. premises. What a fine sight it looked, decked out in festive style. A tribute once again to the two meet organisers, or should I call them chefs?

Tomato Rempli ******* be remembered for posterity in this Cream of Carrot & Orange Soup way. We should also not forget his ******* wife Nellie as without the joint Breast of Chicken generosity of the Downhams the new with Lemon & Tarragon Sauce New Potatoes & Potatoe Peaks extension would not have been Buttered Julienne Carrots & Green Beans possible. For those members unable ******* to attend the meet the words "The Christmas Pudding with Rum Sauce Downham Room" have been carved ******* by our member Howard Humphreys Marcian Mince Pies ******* on the wooden beam over the Selection of Cheese & Biscuits fireplace. ******* It goes without saying that the meal Ground Coffee & Mints on Saturday night was magnificent. Dinner was held in our new Downham No words of praise can be too high Room. How Cliff would have been for David Smith and Mike Godden pleased, modest man that he was, to (pictured above).

The 'cavers' table' Adrian, Ged, Alister and Harvey with Eddie and David Hick behind

The YRC Bulletin 82 Summer 1999 This report along with many others very little rain during the daytime. will form part of the Bulletin and in Saturday night was distinctly stormy 20, 40, 60, 90 years time future although it did not seem to disturb members, reading the menu will note either the campers or those members that their predecessors did things with sleeping in cars. Such was the effect style and panache! Perhaps when ofthe liquid consumed in the evening. they are popping their one multi On Saturday one party purpose pill which suffices for all their circumnavigated Ingleborough coming dietary needs for the day they will back via Sulber Nick (well almost!) wish they were able to sit down and down to Crummack Dale skirting share in the ambience and 'bon Norber and back to Clapham which hommie' of a YR.C. communal meal. just about covered the daylight hours. Perhaps I have been seeing too many Perhaps the longest walk of the day science fiction films! was a member getting his training in early for Bolivia who walked over Gragareth, Whemside and Ingleborough.

In a short speech at the end of the meal the President paid tribute to the two meet organisers. He also passed around a bottle of "Malt" which was most acceptable. Afterwards there The most nostalgic walk of the day was a slide show ofthe Club's recent was a past president who walked over expedition to Iceland and our Newby Moss to Gaping Gill and honorary member George Spenceley showed his companion, another past showed slides of South Georgia which president where he had camped fifty were well received by all those years ago after cycling from Morley to present, apart from one member who Clapham, on a Saturday, loaded with was ejected from the room because he camping gear (no lightweight insisted on playing his accordion. equipment in those days), walked up Well, so much for the social side of to G.G. pitched his tent only to be told the meet but what else happened? by the venerable Roberts that he needed a fly sheet ifhe wasn't to get First the weather. It was overcast for soaked. Next day he descended the the whole ofthe two days. The mist hole, came out through Bar Pot, and cloud did not clear off the tops decamped back to Clapham and until late Sunday afternoon when cycled back to Morley a round trip of Ingleborough was clear by 4.00 pm by one hundred miles. They were tough which time most members were on in those days! You can all work out their way home. However there was who I am-talking about.

The YRC Bulletin 83 Summer 1999 All together on the Saturday all the Three Peaks were ascended and much of the surrounding areas covered. Another past president arrived back with his friend about ten minutes before dinner was due to be served complaining that it was half an hour too early and we all should have stopped out longer. They had walked most ofthe way back from Penyghent in the dark. There is not much The 'rescue party' for the jammed projector, David wrong with the spirit in this Club. Smith, Tony, Howard and Gordon, The evening was Saturday night, apart from the storm, saved by George, returning from a Sheffield lecture engagement, having a projector in his car was enlivened in the new twelve bunk dormitory by a young member Attendance: berating older members for snoring. The President, lan Crowther He'd not have got away with it in the Ken Aldred Dennis Annstrong old days! When he finally got to sleep Denis Barker he kept all the others awake! John Barton On Sunday there was a certain Alan Brown lethargy about but amongst other Derek Bush things the Falls walk was done and Ged Campion Whernside was ascended from the Albert Chapman head of the falls along the ridge and Derek Clayton back. It was pleasing to see how the Derek Collins once much eroded path near to the Robert Crowther summit had been improved by paving. Eddie Edwards Adrian Farrow (Guest) The President's party went caving in lain Gilmour Skirwith Cave and he at one point got Mike Godden jammed in a crawl. Fortunately he Richard Gowing was rescued by his :fi:iends. David Handley The last sighting of the President was Mike Hartland late on the Sunday evening loading his David Hick car to take some tressle tables back to Gordon Humphreys the village hall. Even Presidents have Howard Humphreys to work these days and it is not a bad Gerry Lee memory to conclude a historic Alan Linford Harvey Lomas weekend. C.D.B. John Lovett Rory Newman Alister Renton Chris Renton Michael Smith , David Smith Derek Smithson Tony Smythe Arthur Salmon George Spenceley {~ ..L:f~%:n Frank: Wilkinson Alan Brown, Arthur Salmon and Frank Wilkinson (35 Members and a Guest)

The YRCBulletin 84 Summer 1999 Low Hall Garth Meet 8 - 10 Jauary 1999

I was persuaded to attend this meet as I was on the equivalent meet in 1958. By the same token I got the pleasure ofwriting the report. Not having been on a meet for rather too long I was surprised to find the average age seemed to have risen somewhat. All but five were pensioners. As this ratio is likely to increase with the passing of each year I trust the committee is making suitable provision for the care of the elderly. As there are few still alive from that long past event, it did seem something of an occasion. The chance renting of the cottage above eased space below for what was the largest turnout for years. In fact there was a very good turnout with some thirty five members and guests arriving at Low Hall Garth for pie and ford - which, once found again, was peas on Friday night. the cause of some meniment and I am told, but did not witness, that many unkind jokes. fairy costumes were exchanged in the On Saturday a party of three car park that night. In the confines of encountered a solo elderly member the hut, I did witness that some people wandering casually towards Coniston apparently snore at both ends of their Old Man from Swirl How. One bodies. For times remembered, David supposes that, being a seasoned Smith paid tribute to Denis Driscoll's traveller, he might have survived a contributions to this particular meet night in the open or struggled to some over many years. point of civilisation, but it would have The catering was better than I been a close run 'thing- perhaps better remember it of old. The hosts on this to have company on the long dark occasion provided a superb feast that walk back to the hut. This particular would have not disgraced any hotel. member does not suffer senile Not only was the food excellent but dementia but perhaps we all need to the service, while not quite matching bear in mind that we can no longer the elegance of the menu, was brisk embark with impunity on the and genuinely hospitable. The price of excursions ofour youth. all this was patently absurd - it would The writer of this report discovered have been a bargain at double the cost this for himself, having tagged onto a - and I would suggest that the club's couple of pensioners for the day with profit margins need to be re-examined. the idea of repeating some enjoyable At some stage the president lost his walks from forty years ago. Being wallet - he thought en route from the totally out of practice there was no

The YRC Bulletin 85 Summer 1999 ------., I

evidence that an ambitious outing sometimes indolent turn their hand to (relatively speaking) was going to be service of their colleagues. The successfully achieved. Early morning servers too do more than stand and bravado was paid for later in the day wait and altogether life continues. As as various parts of anatomy protested a club, we may have missed some at the abuse. The pensioners tricks over the years but something discreetly avoided pointing out the has stayed and flourished - an obvious justice of this punishment as appreciation of time spent with we hobbled over the road past Blea colleagues on the hills, a sharing of Tarn under a starry sky. experience and value of relationship that embraces even absent friends. That the snow was soft and new made Forty years on, it was good to share the going harder but who could this event and be so warmly embraced complain when we were blessed with by the YRC. John Varney one of those all too rare Lakeland weekends when the sun shone from dawn to dusk. Mile after mile ofsnow Attendance: capped peaks in every direction in air The President, lan Crowther so clear, it seemed one could reach Ken Aldred out and touch the distant hills, as we Dennis Armstrong climbed steeply out of the frosty Denis Barker valleys out onto the snows. Snows Alan Brown jewelled in the brilliance of the sun Derek Bush under clear blue skies with clouds only Albert Chapman over the distant Isle ofMan. You may Roy Denny be familiar with all this, but I have Stuart Dix forgotten if I ever knew. Fifty miles Eddie Edwards all around - and such beauty - snow Derek English etched curvaceous hills, green valleys lain Gilmour and sparkling sea to complement the Mike Godden detail of bright green mosses, rhymed David Handley rocks and crystal granite in the sharp Mike Hartland light. Even as we descended, David Hick Helvellyn shone blood red in the John Jenkin (G) setting sun and a roseate glow spread Richard Josephy over all the outspread land past distant Tim Josephy Ingleborough. Gerry Lee Harvey Lomas Of course, many a person and many a John Lovett group went forth, criss-crossing the Keith Raby peaks and enjoying fully this blessing Alister Renton of a weekend. All those pensioners, I Harry Robinson discovered, have time to walk and John Schofield climb and travel. Not for them to idle David Smith away their days or let their skills go Michael Smith rusty. Fit, strong and somehow no Derek Smithson older than they were. Perhaps that is Tony Smythe the joy ofthe club. As individuals our George Spenceley roles change. The once young-bucks Bill Todd become the wise old men. The John Varney

The YRC Bulletin 86 Summer 1999 North Wales Rhyd-Ddu 29-31 January 1999 A mild weather system meant that the much hoped for wintry conditions failed to transpire. Members arriving on Friday were welcomed by low The Oread Mountain Club's hut, Tany-Y-Wyddfa cloud that failed to clear during the day making walking a fairly damp and Drws-y-coed, Mynedd Tal-y-mignedd miserable affair. However, by Friday to Carnedd Goeh, The interconnecting evening a hearty crowd had arrived at ridges, most notably Craig Pennant, the Oread M.C.'s hut, Tany-Y-Wyddfa were exciting scrambles over some which, as the name suggests, is nestled very wet and slimy rock. While cloud beneath the western slopes of was low most of the time, the Snowdon. intermittent views occasionally afforded down to the valley below With the weather set fairer on were all the more appreciated for their Saturday morning members set out on rarity. For those arriving at Nantlle, a their expeditions, most of which long walk back to the hut along the involved the Nantlle Ridge which runs road finished just as darkness was east to west from the village ofRhyd­ falling. Ddu. The YRC should be congratulated on the variety of ways Another party compnsmg our by which its members resolved to President, Frank Wilkinson and traverse the ridge. Darrell Farrant took advantage of the road link and traversed the route west One party comprising lain Gilmour, to east from a trailhead close to Cwm Richard Gowing, Alister Renton and Silyn. David Smith trail-blazed the more obvious east-west route that started A more "complete" traverse was steeply out ofthe village to the top of undertaken by Richard Josephy, Tim Y Garn. A party comprising Derek Josephy, Michae1 Smith and Derek Collins, Roger Dix and Stuart Dix, Smithson, Having ascended Cwm and another of Mike Godden and Pennant on the southeast side of the Eddie Edwards followed them. ridge, with the permission ofa friendly farmer, they attained the ridge at the On arrival at the summit, all were far western summit of Mynedd Grail treated to a view of the surrounding Goeh, This despite Richard Josephy area that was enhanced by the local ending up waist deep in a bog. temperature inversion. In all directions the region's peaks protruded When they set out in the morning spectacularly out ofmist filled valleys. David Hick and David Martindale had The ridge continued across Mynedd little idea that during their walk up

The YRC Bulletin 87 Summer 1999 Richard Josephy and a hilltop 'floating island' in a sea of cloud

Cwm Pennant and then over Moe1 Attendance: Hebog they would be treated to the The President, lan Crowther sights and sounds of mating hogs. Having sought liquid refreshment that Derek CoIlins evening in the local tavern to help Stuart Dix them get over their experiences, they were unfortunately further traumatised Roger Dix (G) by a cyclist, victim of a road traffic Eddie Edwards accident, who was treated before their Darrel Farrant very pints while awaiting paramedic assistance. While the two Davids have lain Gilmour recovered, less is known about the Mike Godden cyclist. Richard Gowing George Spenceley and Harvey Lomas each ascended Snowdon (although not David Hick together) where low cloud made route Richard Josephy finding particularly hazardous. Tim Josephy All in all this was a very enjoyable meet and special mention and thanks Harvey Lomas must go to Harvey who stepped in to David Martindale deputise as meet leader and did a Alister Renton splendid job of keeping us well fed and happy upon our return to the hut David Smith in the evening. Those requiring to be Michae1 Smith even happier continued the evening in the pub. Derek Smithson Stuart B Dix George Spence1ey Frank Wilkinson

The YRC Bulletin 88 Summer 1999 retuming. The President declared that caving was a young man's SPOlt and Lowstern he would go no more, but he's said that before and we know he doesn't Joint Meet with Gritstone really mean it. and Wayfarers Clubs Late retumers to Lowstem found a 12-14 March 1999 very convivial scene to greet them. Tables laid for thirty six and room to It won't be a big meet", the President spare for everyone to circulate and airily told the meet leader, so that enjoy the gluhwein and appetisers worthy gentleman was rather provided by our dinner host, David surprised to find himselfhaving to ring Wood of the Wayfarers. If anyone round asking people to be prepared to doubted the wisdom of spending so camp or sleep in their cars. If the much money on Lowstem then this success of a meet is counted on sort of meet is ample justification. attendance, then this was certainly a The meal that followed was a successful one. Even the weather was traditional Austrian one, expertly kind; rather than the usual misery of prepared and eminently satisfying, March mist and drizzle we had a both in savour and size. The President pleasant spring- weekend, clear arid thanked David and Derek for their sunny. sterling efforts and welcomed the two The usual breakfast production line Kindred Clubs to Lowstem, offering was efficiently run and most people the hope that we would have more got an early start on the hills. Many such meets in the future. He also routes were taken, most of them asked the company to drink to the life intentional (even YRC members find it of YRC member Bill Woodward who hard to get lost in such good weather) had died a few days previously. After and the Elder Statesman of the dinner Michael Smith gave an update Wayfarers, Hal Jacob, enjoyed a walk on the Bolivian expedition and some around the green lanes and tracks of people gravitated to the New Inn, Clapham and Austwick. where a fancy dress party was in full swing. At about ten o'clock, the door A high powered party of three set off opened and in came the Teletubbies. It to climb on Twisleton Scar and had a was some time before we realised that good day there, although their tales of the third one was in fact the President true grit and determination were and he wasn't in fancy dress. somewhat torpedoed when Albert Chapman arrived to reveal that they Sunday dawned another fine day and had been partaking oftea and cakes at most people took advantage of the Scar Top from half past three. One weather to have another day on the hopes it did not blunt their appetites local hills. About a dozen, including for the evening repast. John Barton, David Handley and Sidney Waterfall, who came down for The Presidential party went caving, the day, stayed behind to have lunch choosing County Pot in Easegill with Geoffrey Brooks, one of our because ofthe high level ofmeltwater most senior members, who had been run off They had a long and enjoyable brought over by Bill Todd to meet old day prospecting into odd comers and friends and to view the new Lowstem. getting as far as Diamond Hall before Your meet reporter was not present

The YRC Bulletin 89 Summer 1999 but no doubt old acquaintances were Attendance: renewed and many tales told of Lowstems old and new. Gtitstone Our thanks go to Derek Collins and John Anderson David wood for organising such an Denis Chapman enjoyable meet that sets the standard Clifford Duckworth for the year to come. Jack Escritt Tim Josephy Billy Hinds

Wayfarers Steve Auty Alan Ferguson Mike Gee Peter Honey Bob Hughes Hal Jacob David Wood

YRC The President, Ian Crowther David Atherton John Barton Geoffrey Brooks Alan Brown Derek Bush Albert Chapman Derek Collins Eddie Edwards Mike Godden David Handley Mike HaItland Jeff Hooper Richard Josephy Tim Josephy David Laughton Harvey Lomas Arthur Salmon David Smith Michae1 Smith Bill Todd

Cucumber Falls in Glacier National Park, MY USA Sidney Waterfall

TIle YRC Bulletin 90 Summer 1999 Vicuna in danger

To combat the work of an estimated three dozen professional poachers of vicuna, 250 new recruits to the Peruvian Park Ranger service were enlisted and sworn in during last winter. Keeping an eye on the animals as they range widely in small groups across the 4000m altiplano is difficult but the Rangers efforts are paying off and the population has increased to over 100000. Known locally as the walking gold of the Andes because of their fine wool vicuna are a tempting target as once smuggled from the hunting area, usually around Ayacucho, across the border into Bolivia their hides fetch about £25 on the black market. Their eventual destination is on a rack of suits in an European boutique as trading in these products is illegal in the USA. The 1997 Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Flora and Fauna (CITES) reduced the level of protection listed for vicuna in view of the rising numbers opening the possibility of increased trade and consequent temptation for potential poachers. The una Ulla National Reserve, in the Apolobamba area of Bolivia, is another sanctuary for vicuna which suffers from poaching, with some kills being made within sight ofthe small collection ofbuilding which form the reserve headquarters. Members on the last Club Andean expedition in 1988 saw a few of their 3000 vicuna in the wilder areas away from the llama grazing pastures. Near to the volcanic peak, Sajama, a probable destination for the next Andean trip, is another reserve, the Chilean run Lauca National Park where the herds number almost 30000 animals so we may see more on that trip. (Source Latin Press Lima)

r,::.,.

The President, WCIC, with hair, making one of his first declarations aged 15 months in 1937

TIle YRC Bulletin 91 Surmner 1999 High technology situations: you need two hands in front ofyou (one with the device and Michael Smith one to press the button); you need to I've used several alti­ keep ice axes away; and the device -meters but the Suunto must be held perfectly level so an Vector Wristop Computer packs the integral spirit level is ('-r'iI _---­ greatest functionality into least space provided for this. :7': - --.- for the mountaineer. The display of pressure or height Styled like a hefty digital wristwatch changes is either by stepping through (5cm / 2in across & 1~cm / 5/8in deep) it the sequence of previously captured combines the usual digital watch reading or an at a glance baro display functions with a 9000m altimeter / shown in four quadrants (left above). barometer, thermometer and compass. For this I prefer the Casio-style graph It will operate in metric or imperial (rightabove) but there has to be a limit units and unlike earlier versions does to what they can fit in. not need sending away for a change of The thermometer will display the cell. It will be available with a variety ambient temperature but needs to be ofwristbands off the wrist for fifteen minutes or The altimeter reading changes in 5m more to avoid it being affected by or 10ft steps and requires only a few body heat. For me this severely limits presses on two of the four the utility of this function. A cheap inconspicuous (unlike the Avocet (£3) alcohol in glass thermometer Vertech Alpine) push buttons. In thin embedded in clear plastic dangling gloves I found adjustment a simple from your sac or tent appears to me to matter. So too was mastering the be a better solution. basic adjustments needed to allow for What then is this good for? Knowing variations in pressure and magnetic the altitude is a valuable extra piece of declination! but there again I quite navigational information and, provided enjoy reading electronic equipment you develop the habit of setting the and computer manuals. For me the altitude when known, the device will main operation is the altimeter though displaythis reliably and conveniently. a compass available at one touch It will record settings in a logbook for saved rooting around for odd checks. later replay and gives an at a glance Such a one touch can still be indication of significant overnight inadvertently applied by a rucsac strap pressure changes. while struggling to pull a sac on, The fact that it replaces a watch though less easily than with larger means that it is not another instrument buttoned models. to carry and the compass function is The compass circuits use significant reasonably convenient for periodic currents so after 10 or 45 seconds it checks. It is undoubtedly more robust goes to sleep and needs another touch than aneroids and has more functions to reactivate it. Compared to a than most club mountaineers have use magnetic needle compass there are a for - such as ascent rates, split time few points to watch in tricky displayfor two runners (climbers"). Only you can decide ifit worth around £140 to you but it does appear set to 1 On declination setting my version of the replace the Avocet as the wrist manual (10/98) contained an error in the altimeter with a compass thrown in for instructions in 9.1, p33, line 5, the word added measure. twice should be once.

The YRC Bulletin 92 Summer 1999