Fashion Merchandising: a Suggested Program Guide

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ED 102 40 95 CS 003 140 TITLE Fashion Merchandising: A Suggested Program Guide. Fashion Industry Series No. 4. INSTITUTION Fashion Inst. of Tech., New York, N.Y. SPONS AGENCY Bureau of Adult, Vocational, and Technical Education (DREW /OE), Washington, D.C. PUB DATE 73 NOTE 108p.; For other documents in Fashion Industry Series, see CE .003 139-142 and CE 003 621 AVAILABLE FROM Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, D.C. 20402

EDRS PRICE MF-$0.76 HC-$5.70 PLUS POSTAGE DESCRIPTORS Adult Vocational Education; Behavioral Objectives; Career Ladders; *Curriculum Guides; Distributive Education; Educational Equipment; Employment Opportunities; Instructional Materials; *Job Training; *Merchandising; *Occupational Hose Economics; Occupational Information; Program Development; Resource Guides; Resource Units; Retailing; *Salesmanship; Sales Occupations; Secondary Education; Skill Development IDENTIFIERS *Fashion Industry

ABSTRACT The fashion merchandising guide is the fourth of a series of five interrelated program resource guides encompassing the various dimensions of the fashion industry. The job-preparatory guide is intended to provide youths and adults with intensive preparation for initial entry employment and also with career advancement opportunities within the fashion merchandising field. It provides an overview of the field, occupational opportunities, and competencies required of workers, and contains outlines of areas of instruction which include objectives to be achieved, teaching content, suggestions for learning experiences and evaluation, teaching resources, and instructional supplies. Areas of instruction range from fundamental background information about marketing, textiles, fars and leathers to fashion salesmanship, planning and control, and display design. Career advancement instruction includes fashion buying and merchandising, sales promotion, applied merchandising and fashion copywriting. Suggested equipment and approximate costs are included as well as a bibliography and a list of representative trade associations. Other program considerations and services judged to be important to this job-preparatory program are also presented. (Author/mil) ED102).;_08 .

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CO e1 FASHIONINDUSTRY SERIES NO. 4 I4J Fashion M h ndising a suggested program guide Developed pursuant to a grant from the U.S. Office of Education to The Fashion Institute of Technology New York, New York 1973

"The project presented or reported herein was performed pursuantto a Grant from the U.S. Office of Education, Department of Health, Education, and Welfare. However,the opinions expressed herein do not necessarily reflect the positionor policy of the U.S. Office of Education, and no official endorsement by the U.S. Office of Educationshould be inferred."

For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office Washington, D.C. 20402 FOREWORD This Fashion Merchandising guide is one of a series of interrelated programresource guides encompassing the various dimensions of the Fashion Industry. Thepurpose of the series is to provide school administrators and teachers with a source of information which can be used to establish, expand, or evaluate instructional programs related to the broad field of fashion. The Fashion Industry Program Series includes five separate guides. Career Exploration in the Fashion Industry Series No. 1 presents an introduction to the different segments of the fashion field and suggestions for a career exploration program. Apparel Design and Production Series No. 2, Textile Design Series No. 3, Fashion Merchandising Series No. 4, and Dry Cleaning and Laundering Series No. 5 are suggested job-preparatory (skill threlopemnt) program guides. These job-preparatory guidesare conceived to provide youth and adults with intensive preparation for initial entry employment and career advancement opportunities within specific categories of jobs in the fashion industry. In developing the job-preparatory guides, consideration was given to the structuring of objectives, content and learning experiences in terms of the varying competencies considered essential for different levels of employment responsibility, thereby facilitating the adoption of performance-based instruction with a variety of institutional settings. The outcomes of such instruction are identified with immediate employment or continuing education, including higher education. The Fashion Merchandising guides provides an overview of the merchandising field, occupational opportunities, and competencies required of workers. It contains outlines of areas of instruction which include objectives to be achieved, teaching content, suggestions for learning experiences and evaluation, teaching resources, and instructional supplies. Suggested equipment and approximate costs are included as well as a bibliography and a list of representative trade associations. Other program considerations and services judged to be important to this job-preparatory program are also presented. All of the guides were developed by faculty specialists of the Fashion Institute of Technology pursuant to a grant from the U.S. Office of Education to the Institute. This guide was prepared and coordinated by Bette Tepper, Assistant Professor of Fashion Merchandising. Specialized areas of instruction were contributed by Ethel Fishman, Instructor of Fashion Merchandising; Shirley Milton, Associate Professor ofAdvertising and Communication; Hugh Christie, Assistant Professor of Display; and Howard Essig, Assistant Professor of Textiles. The development of the guides was under the direction of William Berndt, Project Officer, and Mary Lee Hurt and Edwin L. Nelson, Education Program Specialists in the U.S. Office of Education. Many useful suggestions were received from industry and educational consultants, and from administrators and teachers of existing programs. Although all suggestions could not be incorporated, each was carefully considered in terms of the publication's intended use. In view of this, it should not be inferred that the program suggestions are completely endorsed by any one institution, agency, or person. The program suggestions contained in this guide should be viewed asresource information which can be modified and adapted by administrators and teachers to meet local, State, and regional needs. Jeannette Jarnow Edwin Goodman Professor, Fashion Institute of Technology; Project Director, Program Guides for the Fashion Industry.

;ii ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Grateful acknowledgement is due many teachers, school administrators, and individuals in the fashion industry for their aid, counsel, and cooperation in the preparation of this publication. In particular, the project team of the Fashion Institute of Technology wishes to recognize the special aid and guidance provided by the following people: Elinor Burgess, Supervisor of Distributive Education, Fairfax County, Virginia. William Burston, Vice-President-Manager (Ret.), Merchandising Division, National Retail Merchants Association, New York, New York. Camri Masterman, Resource Coordinator, City-As-School, New York, New York. Lynne Rhudy, Member Service Director, DECA, Falls Church, Virginia. Jane Wilson, Fashion Merchandising Department, Madison Area Technical College, Madison, Wisconsin. The information and cooperation provided by administrators and staff of the following agencies and institutions during the development of this publication are also acknowl- edged with appreciation: Board of Cooperative Educational Services, Westbury, Long Island, New York. Cleveland Public Schools, Technical-Vocational Education, Cleveland, Ohio. High School of Fashion Industries, New York, New York. Jane Addams Vocational High School, Cleveland, Ohio. Madison Area Technical College, Madison, Wisconsin. Wisconsin Board of Vocational, Technical and Adult Education, Madison, Wisconsin. TABLE OF CONTENTS

Page FOREWORD iii ACKNOWLEDGMENTS THE IMPORTANCE OF THE FASHION INDUSTRY ix The Impact Of Fashion ix Scope of the Fashion Industry ix Economic Importance Broad Range of Occupational Opportunities UTILIZATION OF THE GUIDE xiii Structure of the Program xiii Considerations in Adaptation and Modification xiii Time Allotments xiv

THE FASHION MERCHANDISING FIELD 1

Manpower Needs 1

Desired Competencies. 1 Educational Preparation 2 Occupational Opportunities 2 Profile of Occupations in Fashion Merchandising 3 Entry Jobs 3 Advanced Career Opportunities 4 THE FASHION MERCHANDISING PROGRAM 7 Program Objectives 7 Desired Behavioral Outcomes 7 Example of a Comprehensive Fashion Merchandising Program 8 The Program and Occupational Relationships 9 Brief Overview of Areas of Instruction 10

GENERAL PROGRAM CONSIDERATIONS 11

SurveyofNeeds 11 Faculty 11 Student Enrollment and Services 12 Guidance and Counseling Services 12 Placement and Follow -Up Services 12 Competency Certification 12 Student Organizations 12 Advisory Committees 13 Cooperative Training 13 Safety 14 Instructional Equipment 14 Instructional Materials 14 Library Support 14 Textbooks, References, and Audiovisual Aids 14

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OUTLINES OF AREAS OF INSTRUCTION 17

Fundamental Background Instruction 18 Introduction to Fashion Marketing 18 Basic Textiles 24 Furs and Leathers 29 Basic Skill Development Instruction 35 The Elements and Coordination of Fashion 35 Fashion Salesmanihip 40 Retail Fashion Merchandise Planning and Control 47 Display Design 54 Career Advancement Instruction 61 Fashion Buying and Merchandising , 61 Fashion Sales Promotion 71 Applied Merchandising 79 Fashion Copywriting 84

FACILITIES, EQUIPMENT AND INSTRUCTIONAL SUPPLIES 91

Equipment and Approximate Costs 91 Instructional Supplies 91 SELECTED BIBLIOGRAPHY 93 APPENDIX 97 Representative Trade Associations 97

viii THE IMPORTANCE OF THE FASHION INDUSTRY

Fashion is as old as recorded history and as new as in endless dozens to cities and prairie towns across tomorrow. It manifests itself not only in what people America. wear but in what they eat, the way they talk, what A business that began as an enterprise of small shops they do, how they live and the things they use. now caters to and employs millions of people, offers a multitudinous array of products, utilizes a diversity of talents and ranks among the largest industries in our THE IMPACT OF FASHION economy.

Fashion can be defined as all of the prevailing styles followed by substantial groups of people at a given time SCOPE OF THE FASHION INDUSTRY in a given place. Fashion touches many facets of human living and, in turn, the changing conditions of the envi- The fashion industry is not a clearly defined entity. ronment in which that living takes place bring about It is a complex of many different industries, not all of changes in fashion. The intensity with which changes which appear to have anything of fashion among their in fashion are followed by people everywhere on all products. levels of society is evidence of its impact on human Plainly recognizable as part of the fashion business activities and its significance as a social phenomenon. are those industries devoted to the tr-.,,ing of apparel The phenomenon of fashion has been studied, an- and accessories for men, women and children. When alyzed, and explained in many different terms. Econ- one moves back to an earlier stage of production, to omists view it as an element of artificial obsolescence the fabrics, leathers, and plastics from which the finished that impels people to replace commodities which still products are made, the line between what is and what is retain their original usefulness even though the new may not the fashion business becomes even harder to draw. not greatly differ from the old. To sociologists it rep- Some textile mills that produce apparel fabrics also resents a manifestation of social interraction and an produce bed sheets, carpets, or industrial fabrics. Some element of status seeking; psychologists find indications chemical companies that produce fibers which even- of sex impulses in patterns of dress. Historians see tually are spun, woven and cut to make garments are fashions as a reflection and documentationof the producers also of explosives, fertilizers, and photographic ideals,tastes, and values of their times just as are film. Some producers and processors in fields normally paintings, sculpture and other art forms. remote from fashion find themselves temporarily with The influence of fashion is felt not only through- one foot in the fashion business when prevailing styles out the social world but in all categories of economic demand such items as industrial zippers, chain belts, activities. Itis most clearly demonstrated however in paper dresses, or whatever the case may be. A season amulti-billiondollarindustry complex, commonly or two later, they may be as far removed from it as known as the "Fashion Industry", which is dedicated ever, but for the time being, they too are part of the to the design, production, and distribution of apparel business of fashion. and accessories for men, women and children. Because The fashion business includes the stores that sell and clothing is considered to be the oldest and purest form serviceapparel and accessories, and the mail-order of fashion expression, this industry embodies more catalogues from which many consumer purchases are aspects of fashion than any other single rallying point. made. It includes businesses that neither produce nor Fifty years ago "fashion" was directed, ordained, sellmerchandise, but render advice, assistance or in- cultivated and handled by the few, in small shop opera- formation to those that do. In this last category are tions. Today the fashion industry is, on the one hand, consumer publications that disseminate news of fashion, the exclusive air of an elegant specialty store presenting ranging from the women's page rf the daily newspaper a collection of high-priced originals, and on the other to magazines devoted primarily to fashion news such as hand, it is the giant factories that dispatch "blue jeans" Vogue, Harper's Bazaar or Gentlemen's Quarterly. Also

Lit ix included in this category are trade periodicalswhich workers. In addition, retail outlets that playa significant carry news of fashion and information on production part in the distribution of clothing employed the services and distribution techniquesto retailers, apparel manu- of more than 1/4 of the 11.7 millionmen and women facturers, and textile mills.It includes also publicists engaged in retail occupations in 1972 and of this number and advertisingspecialists,fashion consultants, and it is estimated that 50% are engaged in activities directly buying offices that represent retail stores in the vast concerned with the merchandising of apparel andtex- wholesale centers. tile products. Orycleaning and laundering service estab- All these and more are part of the business farms lishments employed an additional 1/2 million. and mills and factories, union labor and white-collar The industry is also important to allparts of the workers, business tycoons and creative artists. All play country rather than just asmallgeographic area. their parts in the business of fashion. Although the heaviest concentration of textile manufacturing facilities is in the South and New England,some ECONOMIC IMPORTANCE phase of textile activity is carriedon in nearly every state of the Union. Apparel production plants can also The economic activities involved in the design,pro- be found in evary state and are increasingly being duction, merchandising and maintenance of textiles, located in small towns where, in manycases, they are apparel and accessories are a sizeable force inour nation. the only industry or the largest employer. Apparel and Whatever yardstick one uses as a measurement, their fabric retailers are to be found in every major city, in importance becomes clear. every suburb and in the smallest of towns. In terms of money that Americans spent in 1972, clothing, accessories, shoes, and clothingcare services BROAD RANGE OF accounted for 62 billiondollars, an amount which constituted almost 10% of total consumer expendi- OCCUPATIONAL OPPORTUNITIES tures. In terms of factory output, the industry also ranks high. Textile output for 1972 reached 28 billion Numbers alone, however, do not tell the fullstory dollars and factory shipments of men's, women's and of the importance of the fashion industryas a field of children's apparel exceeded 26 billion dollars. employment opportunity. The industry is many-faceted and offers a host of varied entry-jobs and Millions of people are employed in producingtex- career oppor- tiles and apparel, in staffing the retail stores that make tunities. It employs workers withevery degree of skill this merchandise available to the consumer, and in the and educational preparation. Training and/or experience retail or industrial establishments that specialize in in one segment is often anasset applied to another. clothing services. Of the 20 million people employed Working conditions and financial compensationare inU.S. manufacturing industries in 1972, practically satisfactory, and good pay is a by-product of good one in every eight was employed either in the industry training, good job performance, good experience and divisions that produce apparel formen, women, and good breaks. Pay rates vary from city to city, from children or that produce the materials from which company to company and from time to time. clothingis made. The apparel segment which alone There is a place in the industry for people ofmany employs almost 1.4 million people is the 6th largest different types and levels of skills which require diverse employer of people in the manufacturing sector of the talents, interests and educational preparation. Techni- economy and, for example, employs more people than cians and artists, chemists and engineers, originators and the entire printing and publishing field or the chemical copyists, cutters and ;ewers, buyers and sellers, adminis- and drug industry. Textile firms employ another million trators and entreprer.eurs....all these and more con- stitute the variety of occupational opportunities in the 'Source of figures: U.& Industrial Outlook 1973, U.S. Depart. complex of industries involved in the design, production, ment of Commerce. distribution and servicing of textiles and apparel products.

x FASHION INDUSTRY FLOW CHART

Agricultural and Chemical Suppliers (fibersnatural and synthetic)

Spinning PlantsSpinners and Throwsters (fiber into yarn)

Knitting ar.1 Weaving Mills (yarn into fabric finished and unfinished)

Auxiliary Enterprises (Service or Advisory) Converters Finishers publications 14.41Selling Agents (unfinished into finished fabrics) 4-0 resident offices consultants advertising agencies publicity agencies (and others) J Apparel socesso Producers

\TWholesale Jobbers

Retailers A (department and specialty stores, chain stores, discounters, supermarkets. mail-order houses, house -to- house. etc.)

.111111111, Drycleaning and {4 ..-Consumers Laundering Services

xi UTILIZATION OF THE GUIDE

School personnel using this guide will find that mod- CONSIDERATIONS IN ifications can be easily made to fit the local conditions of their specific situation. The design of the overall suggested ADAPTATION AND MODIFICATION program is such that areas of instruction can and should be combined or eliminated entirely in adapting the program to meet local needs. The number of the different areas of instruction that are offered, the manner in which they are combined, the emphasis that is given to the different levels of areas of instruction and the comprehensiveness of the program wilt depend upon: STRUCTURE OF THE PROGRAM The type of educational institution in which the The components of the program suggested in this guide program is being offered: for example, anadult are based upon the differing performance requirementsof training center would be less likely to offer the different levels of employment responsibility. The pro- entire program than a post-secondary school. gram, therefore, reflects levels of competency tobe achieved rather than levels of education, thereby tacili- The time available for the program: for example, tating its adaptation and use by secondary schools, post- it would be more advisable in a one-year program, secondary institutions and other types of training centers. as contrasted to a two-year program, to eliminate The basic skill development areas of instruction cor- complete areas of instruction rather than compro- respond to specific competencies needed for basic entry mise the development of specific competencies jobs and aim to prepare students for initial emoloyment. desirable for meaningful employment. The advanced areas of instruction progress in depth, The occvational opportunities in the community: scope and complexity of content and are designed to for 0).amole, it would be wiser to put more emphasis serve the needs of students who have moreadvanced on retail selling than industrial sellingif employ- career goals and/or greater educational oremployment ment opportunities in the industrial field are non- experience. The fundamental background areas of ins- existent or limited in the community. truction, although not always essential for some basic The job levels for which the program is designed: skills, broaden the students' understanding of the occupa- for example, little or no emphasis should be put on tional field and enhance their opportunities for job career-advancement areas of instructionifthe satisfaction and career progression. When necessary for objective of the program is to prepare students for the development of specific skills. they are r.oted as basic-skill entry jobs. pre-requisites in the outlines of the areas of instruction. The areas of instruction in the guide and the teaching The nature of existing programs in the educational modulesin the instructional guidelinesareflexible institution: for example, complete areas of instruc- enough to allow for vertical and/or lateral occupational tion in fashion merchandising could be substituted training plans. For example, enrollees in the program can: or added and offered as an option to studentswho are enrolled in currently existing clothingand 1. Either progress laterally, component by related textile programs. component, from simple to complex job skills in The students' special needs and occupational goals: such a way that they can exit at varying points with for example, being responsive to students' indi- a mastery of a specialized skill, if they choose not vidual needs in terms of where they are and what to complete the entire program. they wish to be. 2. Or enter the program at wherever they are occupationally and move vertically (or laterally) as far as The opportunities that are available to the students they can or choosy:. for continuing study and articulation with advanced jobpreparatory programs: for example,a secondary TIME ALLOTMENTS school in a community which doesnot offer post- secondary jobpreparatory programs should inctude The hours to be allottedto each area of instruction careeradvancement areas ofinstruction; a should also be modified and adaptedto suit local secondary school in a community in which post- situations. If available Instructional hoursare less than secondary jobpreparatory programs are already in those suggested in this guide, it is suggested existence might do better that certain to concentrate on teaching modules and/or completeareas of instruction fundamental backgrdund and basic skin-develop- be eliminated rather than weakenthe development of ment areas of instruction. skills needed for job entry.

1.3 x iv THE FASHION MERCHANDISING FIELD

The term fashion merchandising, as used in this guide MANPOWER NEEDS to identify an occupational field, requires an explanation in order to avoid possible misunderstanding by readers. The increasing interest and emphasis on fashion has Its relationship to marketing should also be clarified. create) a growing need for educationally prepared and trained fashion merchandising personnel. Retailers of Marketing, as defined bi the American Marketing every conceivable type are expanding their fashion Association, is "the performance of business activities operations. Manufacturers have changed their product directed toward the flow of goods and services from planning emphasis from a production-oriented approach producer to consumer or user." Merchandising is defined to a consumer-oriented fashion merchandising approach. as the "planning and supervision involved in marketing Enthusiatic and motivated young people are in great the particular merchandise or services at the places, times demand for such entry level positions in retail merchan- and prices and in the quantities which will serve best to dising as salespeople, merchandising clericals, display realize the marketing objectives of the business." Since assistants, merchandise distributors, and merchandising merchandising is the marketing function and activity trainees to name but a few. In the manufacturing field which governs the merchandise produced or offered for there are entry-job opportunities for a beginner, such as sale, it is an essential occupational field in the "flow" of showroom assistants, inventory clerks, sales trainees, fashion goods and makes economically meaningful the shipping clerks, and the like. There are also many related work of the talented designers and skilled manufacturing occupational opportunities in the auxiliary enterprises personnel who are responsible for the design and produc that service fashion manufacturers and retailers, such as tion of textile and apparel products. Such other marketing fashion publications, trade associations, advertising and activities as transportation, storage and warehousing, display agencies, and resident buying offices. finance, and market research are services and activities Occupational needs and opportunities in the fashion which support the merchandising function. Selling activi- merchandising field are varied enough to interest widely ties that encompass personal selling, advertising, publicity, differing kinds of people, and provide an outlet for the visual displays, and the like, are part and parcel of the talent of gifted creative individuals as well as employment merchandising function. for workers who are happiest at routine jobs.

Fashion merchandising occupations are those which are directly involved in the performance of the merchan- DESIRED COMPETENCIES dising function in retailing, wholesaling, and manufacturing establishments. Regardless of precise definition, In general, successful performance in fashion merchan- the basic difference in the merchandising activities of dising occupations demands an outgcing and pleasant manufacturers and retail or wholesale middlemen is in personality, an interest in fashion, and an ability to the point of view of their operations. Whereas manu- relate to people, the profit motive, and to textile and facturers are interested in what to make, retailers and apparel products and services. Adaptability ig a further wholesalers are concerned with what to carry in stock. requisite since variations in tasks and duties are customary The focus of allis on fashion, because apparel and and expected. Manual skill requirements are negligible. textile products are also called fashion goods. Broadly For career advancement more specific competencies speaking, all seek the same general objective having the are necessary: a knowledge of the value, quality, cons- proper quantities, at the appropiate time, of the types truction,and performance of fashion products; an and kinds of merchandise that meet anticipated customer appreciation and respect for customer wants and needs; requirements, and at the prices such customers are willing a skillin merchandising and marketing techniques; a and able to pay. The ultimate goal, as that of any other capacity to face and enjoy new challenges and problems; business activity,isprofit or a reasonable return on an ability to perceive and distinguish relationships and invested capital. alternatives. EDUCATIONAL PREPARATION Opportunities for careers in retail fashion merchandising exist everywhere: in downtown areas, suburbs, and Although education beyond high schoolis not a re shopping centers; in every hamlet, town, and city. The quirement for many of the entry jobs in merchandising, variety ofretailoutlets that buy and sellapparel those people who aspire to managerialor executive and textile products is almost infinite interms of the positions find advanced study a great advantage. Levels assortment and quality of goods carried. Their range of employment opportunity do tend to reflect levels of encompasses exclusive salons and bargain basements; education. This is particularly true in highly competitive cash-andcarry stores and those that charge and deliver; employment areas. stores that specialize in apparel, and stores that carry a Specifically helpful and applicable to a career in general merchandise mix; small independententrepeneurs fashion merchandising are such areas of study as textiles, and large-scale, publicly-ownod corporate retailers employ- apparel, business or merchandising mathematics, buying ing thousands of people. Regardless of the multitude of techniques, salesmanship, advertising, display, andmar- their individual differences, however, each type of retailer keting operations. As important as the vocational studies performs the same basic fashion merchandising function which contribute to the student's occupational comp- the purchase of apparel and textile products for resale to etency are disciplines that contribute to the "life skills" the ultimate consumer. In fact, many people tendto of the students, and deepen their understanding of the regard merchandising as synonomous with retailing. economic and socialforces that influence fashion More than half of all the people who work in retailing merchandising operations. Areas of study that stress are employed in the merchandising division that has the communication skills and problem solving are important, responsibility for planning, procuring and pricingmer- as are social studies and economics. Equally important chandise assortments, selling the merchandise it buys, are part-time work experience in a retail store, in and earning a profit. The balanceare employed in conjunction with educational preparation. activities that service and support the merchandising function such as store operations, personnel, finance and control, or in activities suchas advertising, display, andpublicitythatimplement the sales promotion function of merchandising. Buyers, and the merchandise managers who supervise them, are the key executives in OCCUPATIONAL OPPORTUNITIES the merchandising division of a retail institution. The specific responsibilities of buyers vary according to the There are many entry starting points in the field of type of organization. In departmentalized stores, depart- fashion merchandising. Some entry jobs, such as selling, ment buyers are virtually in business for themselves in can be satisfying within themselves as for example, a the sense that they have to budget and plan their career as a professional salesperson. Others, such as a expenditures, select merchandise, decide what isto be merchandising trainee, are stepping stones to another job advertised and displayed, teach and train subordinates, objective. Possibilitiesfor job challenges and career and make a profit. In chain organizations and insome advancement are inherent in all since there are many large multistore departmentalized operations, the buying different paths and sequential steps by whichone may activities are centralized in office headquarters rather than progress. Career development movement may be horizon- in the individual stores themselves. In organizations such tal or vertical and it can be within one organizationor as these, the responsibilities differ to the extent that the within the industry itself, since all merchandising activi- buyers concentrate on the purchase of merchandise. ties are closely related and interdependent. The ubiqui- The supervision and the day-to-daymanagement of the tous nature of retailing, however, makes merchandising salesstaff becomes the responsibility ofa sales or entry job opportunities in retail firms much more wide- department manager. spread than in wholesale and manufacturing firms, or in The merchandising activities that service,support, and other branches of the industry. Moreover, employment assistthe buying function provide many entry-job experience in retail merchandising is considereda great opportunities for young men and women alike. Ex- asset for advanced fashion merchandising careers in other perience gained in one is applicable and transferable to all segments of the fashion industry and is often an employ. types and levels of jobs in fashion merchandising. All can ment requirement. This is because retailing is the final lead to career advancement. However, experience inany step along the road that textiles and apparel must travel phase of retail selling is considered bymany to be the on their way to the ultimate consumer, and an under- best all around training for a career in merchandising, standing of retail merchandising is therefore of paramount and equally valuable for other occupational fields in the importance for all occupations in the fashion industry. fashion industry. Many large-scale retail organizations offer entry posi- available to promising young people who are already tions on junior executive training squads as do some employed in the firms and who are not college graduates. large manufacutring enterprises. These, however,are The fact of the matter is that some of the most successful often restricted and reserved for graduates of post- merchandising executives have attained high positions secondary schools. Although the type of training differs without benefit of college education. from firm to firm, it generally includes a series of rotated The following chart offers an overview and examples on-the-job experiences, including selling, that are often of specific fashion merchandising occupations, typical supplemented by classroom lectures and special assign- places of employment, and brief descriptions of what ments. The length of the training period can be from 6 workers do. Occupations are classified according to months to a year. Uptn completion of the training entry-leveljobs and advanced career opportunities. period, the trainees are assigned directly to junior Specific job titles and responsibilities may vary from executive positions. Opportunities on training squads, place to place and are subject to change as technologies or promotion to junior executive positions, are also change and new positions are created.

PROFILE OF OCCUPATIONS IN FASHION MERCHANDISING

Entry Jobs

OCCUPATION PLACES OF EMPLOYMENT WHAT WORKERS DO

Stock Person Retail Stores Receive and store incoming merchandise; keep merchandise Wholesale Firms properly arranged; participate in stock control. Manufacturing Firms

Merchandise Retail Stores Record information on merchandise ordered, received, and Clerical Manufacturing Firms sold; prepare special stock and sales reports. Wholesale Firms Resident Offices Central Buying Offices

Office "Follow-up" Resident Offices Follow up on buyers' orders for delivery and shipping dates; place special orders and reorders.

Salesperson Retail Stores Service customers; transact sales; help with stockkeeping.

"Flying" Squad Retail Stores Receive temporary selling and other assignments where needed.

Merchandise Retail Stores Receive periodic assignments in different merchandise depart- Trainee ments to learn the various aspects of merchandising.

Assistant to Fashion Central Buying Help coordinator in producing fashion shows; research fashion; Coordinator Offices collect and cut fabric swatches. Resident Offices Manufacturing Firms

Executive Trainee Wholesale Firms Receive temporary assignments in various departments of all Manufacturing Firms the major divisions. Retail Stores Central Buying Offices

3 (Entry Jobs continued) OCCUPATION PLACES OF EMPLOYMENT WHAT WORKERS DO

Advertising Assistant Retail Stores Follow through on ads; keep advertising sample books; assist Resident Offices where needed. Advertising Agencies Central Buying Offices

Assistant to Retail Stores Assist in writing copy. Copywriter Advertising Agencies Central Buying Offices Resident Offices

Display Assistant Retail Stores Collect merchandise from departments; help execute window and storewide displays.

Photo Stylist Photo Studios Accessorize and fit merchandise that is being photographed.

Salesman's Assistant Wholesale Firms Assist salesman when he/she shows merchandise to buyer, and Showroom Sales Manufacturing Firms render services to customers. Assistant

Comparison Shopper Retail Stores Shop competing stores; compare prices, observe active selling Central Buying items; report findings to buyers. Offices

Merchandise Retail Distribution Collect information about individual store needs and allocate Distributor Centers merchandise which has been bougnt.

Shopper Shop retail stores and textile firms; observe and report new and/or active selling items.

Advanced Career Opportunities

OCCUPATION PLACES OF EMPLOYMENT WHAT WORKERS IM

Head of Stock Retail Stores Maintain stock from receipt to sale of merchandise

Assistant Buyer Retail Stores Aid the buyer in most of his/her duties and take charge in Central Buying absence of the buyer. Off ices Resident Offices Wholesale Firms

Associate Buyer Retail Stores Perform the buying function with its accompanying activities Central Buying for a classification of merchandise rather than for an entire Offices department. Resident Offices

4 (Advanced CareerOpportunities continued) OCCUPATION PLACESES OF EMPLOYMENT WHAT WORKERS DO

Branch Store Retail Stores Assist in handing the merchandising activities performed in Department Manager the branch store; supervise sales personnel and store operations.

Buyer Retail Stores Anticb-lte wants; select merchandise; dete mine sources of Central Buying sups :nd time of purchase; budget quantities; price mer- Offices chant buy goods at a price which permits a profit; Wholesale Firms participate in selling; plan sales promotion activities. Manufacturing Firms

Divisional Mer- Retail Stores Coordinate the activities of a group of related departments; chandise Manager Central Buying advise and supervise the buyers; interpret and execute policies Offices of management. Resident Offices Wholesale Firms

General Mer- Retail Stores Coordinate and supervise all the buying and selling activities of chandise Manager Central Buying the entire organization; interpret and execute policies of Offices management; advise and supervise divisional merchandise man- Resident Offices agers and buyers.

Sales Manager Wholesale Firms Hire, train and supervise the activities of sales personnel, and Manufacturing Firms participate in sales promotion activities.

Fashion Coor- Retail Stores Research, analyze and advise on fashiontrends; produce dinator Central Buying fashion shows; prepare and distribute fashion information to Offices company personnel. Resident Offices Textile and Leather Firms Apparel Manufac- turing Firms

Comparison Office Retail Stores Supervise the activities of the shoppers who check thecom- Manager Central Buying peting stores and participate in sales promotion by checking Offices responses to the advertising of competing stores.

Copywriter Retail Stores Create the text, headlines and slogans of ads. Central Buying Offices Advertising Agencies

Advertising Manager Retail Stores Direct a company's advertising program by setting policies Central Buying concerning type of advertising, amount of advertising budget, Offices and supervise the preparation of promotional material. Advertising Agencies

Display Manager Retail Stores Plan and direct the execution of window and interior displays. Central Buying Offices

5 (Advanced Career Opportunities continued) OCCUPATION PLACES OF EMPLOYMENT WHAT WORKERS DO

Section Manager Retail Stores Maintain satisfactory standards of customer service throughout Service Manager an assigned part of store; supervise sales personnel; handle emergencies arising in selling areas.

Floor Super- Retail Stores Supervise a group of section managers within a selling area. intendent

Salesman Wholesale Firms Locate industrial customers; make products known to them; Manufacturing Firms provide product information and services; take orders; follow Sales Representatives up on customers.

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6 THE FASHION MERCHANDISINGPROGRAM

It is expected and suggested that theprogram in this to lend itself to modifications and adaptations depend- guide will not be applied to a given situation exactlyas ing upon competencies to be achieved, time available for outlined. The material is presented to illustrate howa instruction, opportunities for employment, special needs comprehensive Fashion Merchandising educationalpro- and occupational goals of the students enrolled, varying gram can be organized. It aims to provide a suggested types of educational institutions, and currently existing framework within which such trainingcan be developed. programs.

PROGRAM OBJECTIVES DESIRED BEHAVIORAL OUTCOMES

A job-preparatory program must concentrate on em- The aim of the program contained in this guide isto ployment objectives ifit is to prepare occupationally enable students to acquire the specific abilities needed for competent individuals. Its approach must be realistic, initial employment, and to provide the knowledgenec- pragmatic, and must identify with specific competencies essary for career advancement and continuing study. needed. The suggested program includes three fundamental The development of occupational competency has at background areas of knowledge followed by basic skill least six components around which a program should be development and career advancement instructionalareas designed: that correspond to the specialized skills and proficiencies needed for employment in fashion merchandisingoccu- 1. Training should prepare the individual to be a pro- pations. The program in its entirety, as illustrated in the ductive employee in an entry-level job. example of a comprehensive fashion merchandisingpro- 2. The training, combined with a reasonable amount gram that follows, aims to provide students with the of work experience, should prepare the individual following competencies: to advance to positions of increasing responsibility.

3. The training should give the individual an under- 1. An understanding of the fashio%I industry as a standing and appreciation of all of the functions whole, with emphasis on the marketing activities operating within the business enterprise. and the interrelationships of the different segments 4. The foundation provided by the training should be of the industry. broad enough so that the individual can do further 2. A knowledge of furs, leathers and of textile fibers, study within his field. No program can be con- fabric construction and finishes, as they affect and sidered terminal in the sense that the student stops apply to the merchandising of fashion products. learning. The further study may be the reading of 3. A comprehension of the principles, dynamics and trade publications, new text references and/or for- nature of fashion and consumer fashion demand, mal education. and their implications for the merchandising of 5. The technical training should be complemented by fash ion. other educational disciplines which contribute to 4. An ability to evaluate fashion products in terms of the social and personal development of the student. their design, construction, and workmanship qual- Employers want workers who are not only techni- ities. cally competent, but who have basic mathematical 5. An ability to use correct fashion terminology for skills, who can communicate with people, and who the written and oral communication of fashion can get along with others. ideas and information. 6. Training should develop the professional attitudes 6. An ability to apply basic salesmanship principles and behavior necessary to secure and hold a job. and techniques to the creative selling of fashion merchand Ise. The overall program suggested in this guide is designed 7. A recognition of the different types of salespro- to meet these requirements. It has been so structured as motion activities that can be used to promote fashion merchandise, and an understanding of the 9. A comprehension of the retail merchandising tech- techniques and procedures that can be used in their niques, principles and procedures employed in the implementation. buying and merchandising of fashion products. 8. An understanding of basic profit factors, anda 10. A recognition of the occupational opportunities and proficiencyitretail merchandising matherfiatics. qualifications for careers in fashion merchandising.

EXAMPLE OF A COMPREHENSIVE FASHION MERCHANDISING PROGRAM

Areas of Instruction Suggested Hours

FUNDAMENTAL BACKGROUND Introduction to Fashion Marketing 60 Basic Textiles 60 Furs and Leathers 30

BASIC SKILL DEVELOPMENT The Elements and Coordination of Fashion 60 Fashion Salesmanship 45 Retail Fashion Merchandise Planning and Control 60 Display Design 45

CAREER ADVANCEMENT Fashion Buying and Merchandising 60 Fashion Sales Promotion 45 Applied Merchandising 160 Fashion Copywriting 45

'This sample program can be modified in terms of hours and instructional areas to suit the time, facilities, and objectives of varying types of educational institutions, and the students' job goals and needs.

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8 THE PROGRAM AND OCCUPATIONAL RELATIONSHIPS

FUNDAMENTAL BACKGROUND INSTRUCTION Basic Textiles Furs and Leathers Introduction to Fashion Marketing

BASIC SKILL DEVELOPMENT INSTRUCTION Display Design Fashion Salesmanship Elements and Coordination of Fashion Retail Fashion Merchandise Planning and Control

CAREER ADVANCEMENT INSTRUCTION Fashion Buying and Merchandising Fashion Sales Promotion Applied Merchandising Fashion Copywriting ENTRY JOB EXAMPLES Retail Salesperson Merchandise Clerical Display Assistant Inventory Clerk Stockperson Salesman's Assistant

ADDITIONAL ENTRY JOB EXAMPLES Merchandising Trainee Resident Office FollowUp Fashion Office Assistant Showroom Salesperson Advertising Assistant Photo Stylist

CAREER OPPORTUNITIES Head of Stock --- Assistant Buyer --- Buyer -- Shop Owner --- Stylist--- Sales Manager --- Fashion Coordinator --- Department Manager --- Merchandise Manager--- Service Manager

., Ki 9 BRIEF OVERVIEW OF AREAS OF INSTRUCTION

Introduction to Fashion Marketing niques that are employed to translate fashions into the profit-making activities of planning, pricing, and con- Covers the nature of the business enterprises, and the trolling quantities. industrial practices involved in the design, production, retailing and consumption of fashion products, with major emphasis on marketing activities and interrelation- Display Design ships. Examines display as a visual merchandising medium, and covers the principles of display design and their ap- Basic Textiles plications to fashion merchandising environs.

Analyzes textile fibers and the construction of fabrics, with emphasis on the properties that affect their hand, Fashion Buying and Merchandising appearance, performance and end-use. Analyzes the buying function and the career opportunities in different types of fashion retailing enterprises, Leathers and Furs and studies the merchandising techniques that are used to forecast fashions, plan assortments, determine sources of Concerns itself with the properties, characteristics, and supply, select merchandise, negotiate buying. arrange- construction of leather and fur end-fashion products as ments, 'nd follow through on the sale of the merchan- they affect the knowledgeable buying and selling of these dise. products.

./.( El ,ments and Coordination of FashionSales Promotion Covers the types and objectives of the different sales promotion activities that are used to sell fashion products, -.es the dynamics, language and coordination and the specialized techniques and procedures that are 4hion, and analyzes the basic styles, sizes, construc- employed to implement the activities of advertising, dis- t on, and workmanship of apparel products. play, fashion shows, special events, and publicity.

Fashion Salesmanship Applied Merchandising

Covers the principles of salesmanship and their appli- Provides students with opportunities to test and apply cation to creative and effective techniques for selling retail merchandising principles, practices and techniques, fashion products, by means of role-playing selling situ- through the actual operation and management of a retail ations. store.

Retail Fashion Merchandise Planning Fashion Copywriting and Control Concerns itself with the principles, evaluation, and Concerns itself with the scientific use of numbers in writing of fashion copy for advertisements, market bulle- merchandising, and the figures and mathematical tech- tins, display presentations, and fashion reports.

10 GENERAL PROGRAM CONSIDERATIONS

There are many administrative factors to be taken FACULTY into consideration before a job-preparatory program is undertaken or expanded. Questions such as the following require affirmative answers: The effectiveness of a job-preparatory curriculum depends to a great extent on the competence and enthu- 1. Does such a program meet a manpower anc. educa- siasm of the teaching staff. It is important for instructional need in the State or community, and at tors in this program to be occupationally competent a reasonable cost? through bona-fide wage earning experience in relevant 2. Is the present faculty, if any, qualified or can occupations, and to have had or to be given instruction qualified faculty be obtained? in the techniques of teaching. Occupationally experienced 3. Will there be adequate financial support to provide teachers add credibility and realism to a program. the program with the necessary facilities and The problem of identifying and recruiting qualified equipment, and to maintain it by providing con- instructors is a very real one. If vocational or technical tinuing support for the proper instructional re- teachers with an understanding and appreciation of the sourcesnecessaryforhighqualityprograms? industry are unavailable within the institution, some 4. Can provisions be made for effective guidance and instructors may be recruited from industry who are placement services? available for teaching on a part-time basis. There are often industry professionals who are eager and able to teach 2 or 3 hours a day or some other agreed upon schedule. SURVEY OF NEEDS Also, some individuals who have retired from indus- The basic purpose of this or any other job-prepara- trialpositions, and who are physically and mentally tory program is to prepare students for advantageous alert, may be recruited as part-time instructors forareas initial employment. Itis obvious that a program of of work in which they have had a successful experience. this type should not be undertaken unless: Experience has shown that graduates of technical schools, who have acquired suitable employment expe- 1. There is every indication that it fills an educational rience, often become excellent teachers in job-prepara- or manpower need in the community or State and tory curriculums. Persons with this background are more at a reasonable cost. likely to understand the objectives, values, and unique 2. There is some assurance, as determined by a study, instructional requirements of vocational technical educa- that there are advantageous and meaningful entry- tion and often bring to the program the kind of enthu- job opportunities for enrollees of the program. siasm which has meaning to the students they meet. Those who believe that a program of this type may Programs of an occupational nature need to be kept be needed in their institution should begin with a com- up-to-date if they are to be effective in preparing people prehensive regional, State, and/or local study. It should for employment. In-service training programs should be be made with the help of people acquainted with the developed and used to help instructors with teaching fashion industry needs in the fashion merchandising techniques,useofinstructionalmaterials, planning field. Such a survey is necessary to catalog the educa- instructional procedures, evaluation procedures, etc., tional needs, to define community support, to evaluate and to update instructors in terms of new industry available student population, and to form a basis for a developments. Faculty members should also be encour- decision as to whether or not to offer the program in aged to participate as active members of professional whole or in part. Furthermore, no program should be associations. Through their publications and meetings, undertaken unless there is strong indication that there such organizations serve as important sources of in- will be a continuing need. formation for new instructional materials andcon- ks, 4.1

11 tinuing reports of new processes, concepts, and develop. Students should also be involved in determining how ments related to their technologies. A list of these trade much job preparation they want, how much they will associations and professional societies can be found in undertake, and for how long. After completing their the Appendix. first goals, they could then be encouraged to participate in progressive levels of job preparation in order to broaden employment potential and satisfy maturing occupational STUDENT ENROLLMENT AND choices. SERVICES

Itis recommended that there be some system for Placement and Follow-Up Services enrolling students who have a reasonable expectation of Effective occupational preparation is impossible if succeeding in all or a meaningful part of the program, the school feels that its obligation ends when the students since the effectiveness and success of the program will graduate. Placing the students on the job, and following ultimately be measured by the job performance of its up their successes and failures, provide the best possible enrollees. information to the school on its own strengths and Generally speaking, students entering the Fashion weaknesses. Merchandising program should possess an outgoing and An excellent placement record is important in attract- pleasant personality, an ability to get along with people, ing new enrollees. Also, a school that is successful in and an interest in fashion products. A high degree of placing its students is more likely to have motivated mot'vation is desirable. students than a school that divorces itself from the General school records, aptitude test results, and in- placement responsibility. formation on exploratory experiences and activities can Follow-up of employed graduates should be utilized be useful tools in assisting potential students in making to determine: the decision on whether to enter this program or not. 1. Graduates' success or failure in employment 2. Effectiveness and value of the program Guidance and Counseling Services 3. Possible revisions to be made in the program.

Guidance and counseling are important in order to bring into the program students who have a basic understanding of the demands and rewards of the occupation, Competency Certification and who have the potential for developing the compe- In industries such as the fashion industry where tence and confidence to meet the demands and achieve employment certification is not prescribed, certification the rewards. could be considered informal. Student records could be In view of individual differences, diverse occupational maintained in terms of the degree to which the student is objectives, the variety of instructional areas, and the able to perform one or more of the competencies needed levels of training opportunity, the importance of informed for identified occupations. Another factor to be con- and continuous counseling cannot be overemphasized. sidered for competency certification is employer evalua- Teachers, coordinators and guidance personnel must tions of the students' performance in cases where a assume responsibilities for: cooperative training experience is provided. 1. Aiding students in their selection of educational and occupational objectives consistent with their interests and aptitudes. STUDENT ORGANIZATIONS 2. Providing for assessment and recognition of individual student's competencies achieved or devel- Student clubs that are related to an instructional oped inprevious educational programs and/or program, should be encouraged and sponsored by faculty employment experiences. members. Groups such as these strengthenrelation. 3. Assisting students in a continual assessment of ships among students, and develop leadership potential their progress toward their individual occupational and an ability to work with other people. They also goals. provide opportunities for students with similiar interests 4. Assisting students inrevising their educational to select and discuss areas about which they would like objectives if other interests and vocational goals further information, and to invite guest speakers of their emerge as students develop. own choice. These student groups should be directed by the When employment is used, it should be considered students but faculty assistance and advice must be avail- an essential element in the educational process and able whenever needed. To be encouraged also are affilia- should be related to the field of study in which the tions with relevant student organizations that are national students are engaged. For example, many of the learning or statewide in scope, such as the Distributive Education experiences suggested in this guide can be adapted for Clubs of Amin ica. completion at the students' employment sites. When students test and apply their school-learned ADVISORY COMMITTEES theory in a work situation, study becomes more meaningful. Just as important, the student hasan oppor- The success of job-preparatory programs depends tunity to learn the importance of reliability, coopera- greatly upon the formal and informal support of in- tion, judgment, and other qualities associated with the dustry advisory committees. Such committees serve successful worker. Through this exposure to the real without pay, as interested citizens. world of work, students' career choices are stimulated The committee can be important as an aid in estab- and snaped. Should they find through their workexpe- lishing, maintaining, and/or evaluating the program. rience that they are not fitted for a specific area of work, Members can also be helpful in recruiting faculty, placing they may decide to change their field of study. This graduates, recommending, and, in many cases, securing decision may prevent them from wasting their timeon donations of instructional equipment and materials, pro- a misguided career choice. viding assistance and facilities for field trips, assisting Specific employment is obtained, as circumstances with training stations for cooperative training, and the permit, by a teacher-coordinator or a placement office like. within the educational institution. The institution The committee should be made up of representatives re- gards the cooperative training technique as an integral of industry, trade associations, related business and in- part of the program as a whole. It is not regarded dustry and, where appropriate, local labor organizations primarily as an earning opportunity, although all students in the community, area, or State for which trainees are are paid wages that are commensurate with those paid being prepared. Committee members should be appointed to beginning workers in the particular job for which on a rotating basis so that the duty will not become a they are employed. Job evaluation reports are submitted burden to any individual member. Rotating memberships to the school coordinator by the employer and are then will also give other interested people an opportunity to discussed with the student. Work reports are submitted serve. The average committee usually consists of about by the students to the classroom instructor(s) who 12-20 members. Members should beinvited and utilize them to reinforce instruction. appointed by the responsible educational authority. The duties and responsibilities of the advisory committee The cooperative training technique offers impor- should be clearly understood so that maximum service tant advantages to students, to the school, and to can be rendered. employers. It offers students an opportunity to gain the For further information about advisory committees type of experience that will make them more desirable see (1) American Vocational Association, The Advisory as employees. As a result of their employment experience Committee and Vocational Education, Washington, The with a particular establishment, many students are offered Association, 1969 and (2) Riendeau, Albert J., The Role permanent positions with that organization upon com- of the Advisory Committee in Occupational Education pletion of their schooling. Regardless of their next steps, in the Junior College, Washington, American Association students establish employment records, that are extremely of Junior Colleges, 1967. important for future reference. Cooperative education also provides opportunities for the educational institution to maintain close contact COOPERATIVE TRAINING with employers. This contact becomes a valuable two- way channel of communication that helps the educational A good way to develop employment skills is through institution to keep its knowledge of specific employ- actual employment. To the extent that the labor market ment needs up-to-date, and at the same time keeps allows, cooperative work training should be a regular part employers acquainted with, and involved in, the program of a job-preparatory program. It may be scheduled for a of the institution. block of time planned for full-time employment during Ideally,students should be exposed to work ex- peak business periods or for a period of time during which perience after they have acquired some of the basic part-time school attendance is alternated with part-time skills required for entry jobs. At this point, they can employment. render some meaningful service to the employer and in

Nap I 13 turn gain a realistic view into their chosen occupation. and are also discussed in the section on Facilities, Equip- They will then be able to approach further study with ment and Instructional Supplies. The following are gen- a better understanding of the actual working conditions eral suggestions for sources of supply for instructional and career opportunities in their field. materials which can have financial advantages to the Additional expenditures of time and money are program and can also enhance instruction: necessary to locate work training stations and to supervise 1. Product and fashion brochures from textile pro- and counsel the students who are assigned to them. Few ducers,apparelproducers,retailers and trade expenditures, however, will bring a bigger return in associations are obtainable free of charge. linkingeducation with productivity and in making 2. Donations and/or loans of merchandise samples schools effective in preparing young people for mean- for instructional demonstrations and learning-ex- ingful careers. perience activities can often be obtained from Specific suggestions for using the cooperative plan local manufacturers and retailers. are available from vocational education directors in State 3. Examples of merchandising clerical forms, resident Departments of Education. office market bulletins, sal..raining materials and the like are also often obtainable from local retailers SAFETY without cost.

Principles of safety should be taught and stressed as LIBRARY SUPPORT an integral part of each instructional area that involves handling of tools and equipment. By emphasizing careful A school library is the major source for the reading procedures and by observing the normal safety practices, and reference facilities that are necessary to make an many dangers can be avoided. educational program fully effective. Instructors must The importance of protecting human life and limb is recognize their responsibility for developing and enrich- paramount, but students also need to learn good work ing the resources of the library to support their program, habits and to develop a pride in workmanship. Teaching and for stimulating student use of the library. Assign- proper care and use of equipment is more important than ments and projects calling for the use of the library en- teaching how to repairitas a result of negligence. ables the students to understand the research resources in libraries and how they relate to their present career INSTRUCTIONAL EQUIPMENT choice. The library should house trade journals, pamphlets, In determining and selecting instructional equipment, basic references, current and pertinent books, and period- the need for every item should be established. Instructors icals. Keeping abreast of new developments, procedures, should recognize that the purpose of laboratory and/or and fashions is most important. Many new and different learning experiences is to teach or reinforce principles fibers are continually introduced in fabrics for apparel. and basic skills. The latest and most expensive equipment Such non-textiles as plastics, leathers, and furs are also isnot always necessarily the bestfor instructional used for garments. One quickly realizes the importance purposes. In many cases, simpler equipment may be more of good library support to keep faculty and students up- effective because it represents only the essentials. Equip- dated on new product technologies and fashion trends. ment, however, should reflect current industry usage. A list of periodicals that report new developments in The possibility of getting donations of equipment products, fashions, and merchandising procedures can be from industry resources should be investigated by the found in the Bibliography of this guide. It is suggested local school or by the State vocational education offices. that the library subscribe to these periodicals for the use Advisory committees can be helpful in this area. of faculty and students alike. The ingenuity of the instructor, however, will play the major part in governing the selection and cost of the TEXTBOOKS, REFERENCES, AND instructional equipment. Suggestions for specific equipment, and approximate costs are discussed in a separate AUDIOVISUAL AIDS section. Due to the dynamic nature of the industry, techniques, procedures, and product technologies are constantly INSTRUCTIONAL MATERIALS changing. Textbooks, references, and visual aids must be reviewed continuously in light of new developments. The specific instructional materials that are suggested The texts and reference materials that are suggested in for this program are included in the instructional outlines the instructional area outlines should be examined by the . ,

14 instructor and analyzed for content and relevancy; newer Only a few have been listed in this guide because changes and more pertinent ones should be substituted as they in techniques and procedures tend to make films obsolete become available. The information needed to cover a par- in a relatively short time. ticular area of instruction is more often than not, unavail- It is expected and hoped that a skillful instructor will able in texts; hence the multiple listing of references. make liberal use of merchandise samples, slides, trans- In many areas of instruction, it will be necessary for parencies, charts, industry materials, and other visual the teacher to develop his own teaching materials. Read- aids that illustrate and visualize technical aspects of the ing references must usually be augmented by mim- content that is being taught. These again must usually be eographed material reproduced 'by the instructor from collected and/or prepared by the individual instructor. current materials in trade publications and/or by bro- They must also be updated regularly in order to keep chures, bulletins, and reports from trade associations and them current. Some suggestions for visual aids are in- from business firms within the fashion industry itself. cluded in the instructional outlines but the ingenuity Audiovisual aids can be a great help in teaching but of the instructor and/or department head must play the must be previewed before use in order to determine major part in the preparation and use of instructional their timeliness and pertinency to a teaching objective. aids.

15 OUTLINES OF AREAS OF INSTRUCTION

The outlines of the areas of instruction that follow Assess the individual student's present skills and contain the subject matter to be included, the behav- potential. ioral objectives, and brief instructional guidelines. They Identify those behavioral objectives that individuals are organized according to teaching modules each of can attain. which contains suggestions for teaching content and stu- Encourage students to acquire at least one if not dent learning experiences. Suggested hours, prerequisites, more marketable job skill, allow them sufficient approaches for student evaluation, and teaching resources time to do this, and emphasize the importance and are also included for each area of instruction. It is recom- interdependence of all operations in an employ- mended that these materials be modified to suit the needs ment setting. of local situations and to take advantage of the special Individualize desired behavioral outcomes in order interests, capabilities, and ideas of the teaching staff in a to obtain a sense of accomplishment for all students particular institution. in the class. The importance of flexibility in varying behavioral Encourage and motivate all students to continually objectives to meet the needs of individual students, and strive for higher goals. in allowing individual students sufficient time to develop at least one employable skill, cannot be over emphasized. Although individualizing instruction is not easy, itis While the successful completion of all objectives for each necessary if the overall objectives of job-preparatory pro- area of instruction and for the program in its entirety is grams are to be achieved. desirable, this is not attainable by all students. It must The suggestions for evaluation that are included in the further be remembered that skill development can only outlines offer but a few approaches. Regardless of the be "learned-by-doing", and that what one student can evaluation techniques that are used and of their frequency learn in one week may take three weeks for another. whether they be written, oral, or performance assess The role of the teacher in education has changed from ments evaluation should be in terms of the desired being primarily an information giver in large group ses- behavioral objectives. In addition, students should be sions to functioning as a resource person, a motivator, a made aware of all objectives and kept aware of their diagnostician, and an organizer in sum, a learning own performance and progress as it appears to the in- manager. It is incumbent upon the teacher to: structor.

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l' Fundamental Background Instruction

INTRODUCTION TO FASHION MARKETING

Prerequisites: None recommended that time devoted to theory be kept to a minimum and as much time as possible be scheduled for "minds-on" student learning experiences. Commu- Suggested Hours: so nity resources should be utilized to the fullest extent for 3n-site visitations and student observations, subject Behavioral Objectives of course to permissions obtained by the teacher for assigned student surveys, research, and reports. This area of study should enable students to: It is further suggested that, if the class has not had a 1. Know the different types of enterprises involved general retailing unit of study previously, the module directly and indirectly in the design, production, on fashion retailing be expanded, as program design and distribution of fashion products, and their in- permits, to include general retail practices and pro- terrelationships. cedures relating to store Incation and layout, store 2. Understand and identify the demographic factors operations, physical distribution of all merchandise that influence consumer demand for fashion prod- within the store, and personnel practices. The teach- ucts. ing content for a general study of retailing is suggested 3. Be familiar with the scope, activities, and nature of in the retailing texts and references listed in the teach- textile and apparel producers. ing resources of this area of instruction. 4. Recognize the different types of fashion retailers, their operational characteristics, and the importance of each in the distribution of fashion prod- Teaching Modules Suggested Hours ucts. 5. Be familiar with the different related fashion in- I. Size and Scope of the Fashion Industry 6 dustry enterprises, and understand their function. II. Analysis of the Consumer Market 12 6. Recognize the employment potential and occupa- III. Overview of Fashion Producers 12 tional opportunities that exist in the different seg- IV. The Retailing of Fashion 20 ments of the fashion industry. V. Related Fashion Service Enterprises 10 Total Hours 60 Instructional Guidelines I. SIZE AND SCOPE OF THE FASHION INDUSTRY The scope of the diversified challenges and career opportunities in the fashion field can be recognized only Teaching Content when one is familiar with the structure of the fashion A. Structure of the Fashion Industry industry as a whole and the nature, activities and in- 1. Primary markets: producers of materials terrelationships of its various segments. An understand- a. Textiles ing of the different types of enterprises involved in b. Leathers the design, production, and distribution of fashion c. Furs products, will help students to relate their specialized d. Plastics field of interest and educational preparation to the e. Findings workings of the industry as a whole. 2. Secondary markets: niencs, women's, children's Although the objectives of this area of study is on the a. Apparel producers development of such knowledge and understanding b. Accessory producers rather than on the achievement of specific skills, it is c. Wholesale jobbers

18 3. Retailers of fashion products fashion industry enterprises in their community, 4. Related service enterprises region or State. a. Resident buying agents 3. As a visual illustration of the different segments of b. Fashion publications (trade and consumer) the fashion industry, assign students to find a fash- c. Consultant services ion magazine advertisement ''tat includes the names d. Advertising agencies of a textile producer, an aoparel producer and a re- e. Publicity agencies tailer. f. Display firms 4. To illustrate the marketing concept, lead a class B. Connotation of "Fashion" discussion pertaining to the consumer's freedom 1. Definition: prevailing styles at any given time of buying choice, the excess of supply as compared 2. Scope to demand, and the many alternatives of product a. All products choice. Come to conclusions on the dominant role b. All prices of the consumer in the current marketing process. c. All sizes d. All producers and distributors II. ANALYSIS OF THE CONSUMER MARKET

C. Economic Importance Teaching Content 1. Employment 2. Economic output A. Dominant Role of Consumers 3. Geographic importance 1. Supply and demand factors 2. Fashion determined by consumers D. Classification of Major Activities a. Industry proposes styles 1. Design b. Consumer acceptance makes fashions a. Textiles and non-textiles c. Different fashions for different groups b. Apparel c. Accessories B. Consumer Characteristics and Significance to Fash- 2. Production ion Industry a. Men's apparel and furnishings 1. Population characteristics b. Women's apparel and accessories a. Age distribution c. Children's apparel and accessories b. Sex 3. Distribution c. Family size a. Merchandising: buying and selling d. Geographic distribution b.Supporting marketing activities e. Suburban versus urban f. Population mobility E. Channels of Distribution 2. Sociological characteristics 1. Different types of distribution channels a. Educational attainments a. Producer to consumer b. Occupational changes b. Producer to retailer to t..)nsumer c. Leisure time c. Producer to wholesaler to retailer to consumer d. Recreational patterns 2. Typical distribution channels in fashion industry e. Working women F. The Marketing Concept f.Life-styles 1. Historical approach 3. Income trends a. Production oriented a. Average family income b. "Caveat Emptor" b. Mass-class market 2. Current perspective C. Buying Motivation and Behavior a. Consumer oriented 1. Emotional or primary motives b. "Consumer is King" a. Comfort b. Imitation Learning Experiences c. Conformity 1. Divide class into groups and have each group de- d. Self-preservation velop a sequential flow chart showing the relation- e. Pride ship and interrelationships between the different f.Prestige segments of the industry, and to themselves as the g. Love ultimate consumer. 2. Rational or secondary motives 2. Assign students to research, classify, and report on a. Convenience b. Dependability 1. Size and scope c. Efficiency a. Economic output d. Gain or profit b. Geographic locations e. Quality 2. Brief history 3. Product buying motives a. Origin 4. Patronage motives b. Development a. Assortments 3. Characteristics of industry b. Services a. Vertically integrated operations c. Price b. Dominance of "giant" firms d. Convenience c. Early fashion planning e. Reputation of seller 4. Marketing activities 5. Shopping habits 5. Career opportunities a. Holidays a. Design b. Seasonal changes b. Production D. Current Trends In Consumer Behavior c. Merchandising and marketing 1. Expenditures B. Producers of Apparel and Accessories 2. Motives 1. Economic importance 3. Habits 2. Geographic locations a. Production Learning Experiences b. Design centers 1. Have the students select an item to be sold to their c. Marketing centers peers,list the consumer characteristics of their 3. Brief history and development peers that they feel would be significant in the 4. Branches and divisions appea: of the item, and then suggest the various a. Men's appeals to be used based on a list of prepared buy- b. Women's ing motives and/or habits. Have students repeat c. Children's the activity selecting as their sales target another 5. Characteristics customer group. Conclude with a class discussion a. Dominance of small producers on comparisons and contrasts of the buying mo- b. Product specialization tives of the different customer groups. c. The contracting system 2. Have students bring a fashion advertisement into d. Style piracy class, identify its appeal and the customer group 6. Marketing activities to which the ad seems to be directed, and evaluate a. Methods of selling its effectiveness. b. Sales promotion activities 3. Have students analyze the clothes that they are c. Branding policies wearing, or a recent purchase that they have made, d. Others and identify their own buying motives. Have class 7. American designers draw conclusions on the major buying motives for 8. Career opportunities fashion products. a. Design and production 4. Lead a discussion on current fashions and how they b. Merchandising and marketing reflect, relate, and are influenced by life styles, and C. Foreign Apparel Producers demographic trends such as surburban living, work- 1. Fashion centers ing women, leisure time, occupational changes, and 2. Couture operations the like. 3. Growing importance of ready-to-wear 5. Assign students, working as groups or individuals, 4. European designers to research different demographic trends, and to 5. Relation to U.S. producers and retailers prepare visual presentations of their findings for class presentation or display. Have students suggest Learning Experiences or illustrate possible effects of these trends on 1. Take class on field trips to an apparel producer and future fashion and fashion industry activities. a textile producer and arrange for company ex- III. OVERVIEW OF FASHION PRODUCERS ecutives to explain the nature of their production and marketing activities and policies. Teaching Content 2. Have students research and report on historical, A. Producers of Textiles and Non-Textiles 33 social, and economic events that influenced the

20 growth and development of the U.S. apparel and/or 2. Current diversity and scope of fashion retailing textile industry. 3. Classification by type of operations 3. Have students name as many textile and apparel a. Departments stores brand names as they can, including the brand b. Departmentalized specialty stores names, if any, of the fabrics or clothes that they c. Centralized chains are wearing. Lead a class discussion on the im- d. Mail-order houses portance of manufacturers' brand names in fashion e. Discounters products, and compare with their greater impor- f.Direct sellers (house-to-house) tance in such. products as food, automobiles, and g. Small independents appliances. h. Boutique operations 4. Organize the class into groups and have each group 4. Distinguishing characteristics of each type plan a simulated new apparel firm. Each group is a. Operational strengths to come to a conclusion on their product offerings, b. Operational limitations the ultimate consumer market that is their target, c. Fashion appeal and importance of each the types of retailers through whom they would C. Management of Fashion Retailing distribute their products, their sales promotion and 1. Internal organization and divisional responsibili- other selling activities, and the sources of informa- ties tion they would use in deciding what to produce. a. Principles and purposes of organization After each group reports their conclusions to the b. Variations in organization: staff and line class at large, the class may vote on which firm is 1) Departmentalized stores most likely to succeed and indicate why. 2) Chain store organization 5. Have students bring into class advertisements of 3) Mail-order houses fashion products that mention American and for- 2. Variations in merchandising policies eign designer names. Use these as a basis for a class a. Fashion leaders or followers comparison and discussion of the differing design b. Brands: private and/or national characteristics of different designers. Have students c. Assortments: breadth and/or depth compile a list of designer names, their distinguish- d. Pricing: price maintenance And underselling ing design characteristics, and the country in which e. Quality standards they work. f.Imports 6. Assign students to visit local stores to shop domes- g. Advertising and promotion tic and foreign ready-to-wear and accessories that 3. Variations in service policies are pr iced alike, and have them compare the work- a. Selling: salespeople or self-service manship, fit, value, fabrics, and styling. Have stu- b. Credit dents come to conclusions on why American re- c. Delivery tailers buy foreign made merchandise when there d. Returns is such an abundance of goods to be had from 4. Personnel practices and procedures domestic producers. a. Employment b. Training IV. THE RETAILING OF FASHION c. Employee recruitment d. Methods of compensation Teaching Content 5. Current trends hi fashion retailing A. Nature of Retailing in General a. Giant combines 1. Definition b. Suburban operations 2. Function c. Mass-fashion merchandisers 3. Brief history and development d. Boutiques 4. Scope D. Career Opportunities in Fashion Retailing 5. Methods of classifying retailers 1. Opportunities a. Merchandise assortments a. Entry level jobs b. Services rendered b. Career progression c. Type of ownership c. Financial compensation d. Type of location 2. Qualifications B. Types of Fashion Retailers a. Educational preparation 1. Fashion retailing in the past t b. Personal qualities (human relations)

21 Learning Experiences from Fairchild Visuals. 1. Have students do research on early forms of fashion retailing and relate these to the economic and V. RELATED FASHION SERVICE ENTERPRISES social factors of their times. Have students com- Teaching Content pare their findings to the social and economic for- ces that are currently affecting the retailing of A. Fashion Publications fashion products. 1. Types and examples 2. Have students research and report on the different a. Trade types of fashion retailers within a fifty mile radius, b. Consumer classify them on a given basis, and identify the role 2. Role in the fashion industry and importance of each classification in the distri- a. Function bution of fashion merchandise. b. Activities 3. Have students collect and analyze a retail news- c. Services paper advertisement and suggest the various divi- 3. Fashion industry relationships sions within a retail organization that had direct or a. Producers indirect involvement with the merchandise that is b. Retailers featured, and the appearance of the ad. c. Consumers 4. Collect and show to the class actual organization 4. Importance and influence charts of departmentalized and chain organizations. B. Sales Promotion Agencies Have class compare and identify the major respon- 1. Types and examples sibilities of each division. a. Advertising 5. Take class on two field trips, one to a departmen- b. Display talized store and one to a chain store unit, and c. Publicity arrange for a behind-the-scenes visit and a discussion 2. Role in the fashion industry with a store executive pertaining to their internal a. Function organization, their merchandising policies, custo- b. Activities mer service policies, and the career opportunities c. Services in their organization. 3. Fashion industry relationships 6. Have students compare the customer services of- a. Producers fered by two to three different types and sizes of b. Retailers local retail stores. 4. Importance and influence 7. Divide class into groups and have each Q... up plan a simulated new fashion retailing operation for C. Consultants the community. Each group is to come to con- 1. Types and examples clusions on the type of merchandise they would a. Fashion consultants offer for sale, their merchandising and customer b. Marketing consultants service policies, their methods of compensating 2. Role in the fashion industry salespeople, how they would promote their store, a. runction how they would train their employees, and why b. Activities they believe there is a "fashion need" for their c. Services type of store. After each group presents their 3. Fashion industry relationships plan to the class-at-large, have the class evaluate a. Producers (a) which storeis most likely to succeed and b. Retailers why, and (b) which store is most likely to fail 4. Importance and influence and why. D. Trade Associations 8. Have students give their opinions of which type of 1. Types and examples retail store they might like to work in, what divi- a. Manufacturers' associations sion, and why. b. Retailer associations 9. Use visual aids to illustrate different types of fash- c. Designer associations ion retailers such as the mail order catalogues of 2. Role in the fashion industry Sears Roebuck, J.C. Penney and/or Montgomery a. Function Ward, the filmstrips of J.C. Penney, A Career in Re- b. Activities tail Buying and A Career in Retail Distribution, c. Services and The Boutique Boom, available for purchase 3. Importance and influence E. Resident Buying Offices tics, and explain the different role that each plays 1. Role in the fashion industry in the retail distribution of fashion. a. Function 4. Distinguish between the marketing and production b. Activities activities of the producers of textiles and apparel. c. Services 5. Identify a given number of types of related fashion 2. Fashion indush y relationships service enterprises, and explain their relationship a. Producers to the producers and retailers of fashion, b. Retailers 6. Identify a given number of career opportunities in F. Career Opportunities in Related Fashion Service the fashion industry, and the industry segments in Enterprises which these opportunities are to be found.

Learning Experiences Teaching Resources 1. Have different students research different trade and consumer fashion industry publications and report TEXTS AND REFERENCES to the class on the type of information they con- Carman, J. and K. Uhl. Phillips and Duncan's Marketing: tain, and to whom and how this information would Principles and Methods be of interest and service, e.g., retailers, producers, Cobrin, H. Men's Clothing Industry: Colonial through and/or consumers. Have class evaluate their role Modern Times and importance in the fashion industry. Davidson, W. and A. Doody. Retailing Management Duncan, D. J. and C. F. Phillips. Retailing: Principles and 2. Show class advertisements by textile and apparel Methods producers and by retailers in order to lead a class Fried, E. is the Fashion Business Your Business discussion on why apparel and textile producers Jarnow, J. and B. Judelle. Inside the Fashion Business utilize advertising agencies, as contrasted to large Troxell, M. and B. Judelle. Fashion Merchandising retailers who maintain their own advertising de- Wingate, J. and H. Samson. Retail Merchandising partments. PERIODICALS 3. Lead a class discussion on independent fashion and marketing consultants, and have students suggest Clothes Magazine what they might contribute to retailers and/or pro- Daily News Record ducers if they operated a consultant agency. Mens Wear Women's Wear Daily 4. Invite a buyer as a guest speaker from a local retail store that is affiliated with a New York or Cali- AUDIOVISUAL AIDS fornia resident buying office. Ask buyer to bring in samples of the market bulletins that he/she re- A Career in -Retail Buying, 6 min. color filmstrip with record ceives from the store's buying office and explain to A Career in Fashion Distribution, 6 min. color filmstrip the class the relationship between the store and the with record office, and how he/she uses the services of the J. C. Penney Co., Educational Relations, 1301 Ave. of office. Americas, New York, N.Y. 10019 Boutiques: Small Shop, Big Impact, 34 color slides wtih printed commentary Suggested Evaluation Fairchild Visuals, 7 East 12th St., New York, N.Y. 10003 Evaluation may be based on evidence of the student's ability to: INSTRUCTIONAL SUPPLIES 1. Identify the different segments of the fashion in- Advertisements of producers and retailers from trade dustry and the role that each plays in the function- and consumer publications Catalogues of mail order houses ing of the industry as a whole. Graphic presentations of consumer demographic studies 2. Identify a given number of economic andpopu- Mimeographed materials of current pertinent articles lation factors that influence the demand for fash- in trade publications ion products, and suggest their implications for the Trade periodicals for demonstration fashion industry. Examples of resident buying office market bulletins Careers in Retailing fact sheets. (National 3. Classify different types of fashion retailers accord- Retail Mer- chants' Association, 100 West 31st St., NewYork, ing to their distinguishing operational characteris- N.Y. 10001)

23 BASIC TEXTILES

Prerequisites: None Teaching Modules Suggested Hours

Suggested Hours: 60 I. Introduction and Orientation 3 II. Fabric Characteristics 6 III. Fibers 9 Behavioral Objectives IV. Yarns 6 V. Methods of Fabrication 15 This area of instruction should enable students to: VI. Dyeing and Printing 12 1. Use the terminology that is identified with the VII. Finishing 6 textile industry. VIII. Federal Laws and Regulations 3 2. Know fabric characteristics as they relate to appearance, hand, expected performance, and end- Total Hours ---- 60 product use. I. INTRODUCTION AND ORIENTATION 3. Perceive the relationship between fiber properties, fabric types and end-product requirements. Teaching Content 4. Understand the major systems of yarn manufacturing and their effect on the properties of finished A. What Are Textiles? fabrics. 1. Definition of fiber 5. Comprehend the methods of fabric construction 2. Definition of yarn that determine the characteristics of fabrics. 3. Definition of fabric 6. Be familiar with the coloring methods applied to B. Concept of Basic Textile Constructions fabrics. 1. Fiber type 7. Be familiar with the various types of processes used 2. Yarn type on textile materials. 3. Method of fabrication 8. Be familiar with federal laws and regulations as 4. Method of coloring they apply to fabrics. 5. Finish C. The Flow of Textiles (relationship between levels Instructional Guidelines and functions of each). 1. Fiber producer This area of instruction is an introduction to textiles a. Natural with major emphasis on finished fabrics. It is sug- b. Man-made gested that a representative cross-section of fabric 2. Yarn mill swatches be distributed to the students and that a. Spinning frequent reference be made to these samples in order b. Throwing to illustrate various points. Traditional fabric types 3. Fabric mills should comprise the major portion of the student's a. Weaving samples and the classical names for these fabrics b. Knitting should be employed. Fabric manufacturing should be c. Tufting relatedtofabric hand, appearance and expected d. Other performance, and these in turn should be related to 4. Converters and their function end-product use. The study of finished fabric char- 5. Dyeing, printing and finishing plants acteristics should be reinforced as the student pro- 6. End-product manufacturers gresses through the study of the various manufactur- a. Apparel ing elements that affect the end product. b. Home Furnishings ti C..; 24 c. Domestics 1. Related to processing d. Industrial 2. Related to fabric appearances, hand, and per- 7. Retailers formance 3. Major properties of each generic class Learning Experiences C. Modification of Fibers 1. Have students examine the apparel they are wearing 1. Chemical variations and distinguish between fiber, yarn, and fabric. 2. Modified physical shape 2. Have students make a list of business enterprises in a. Length local area that are involved in different levels of b. Cross-sectioned production and distribution. D. Methods of Fiber Identification (limitations and 3. Show and discuss film, Cloth: From Fiber to value of each) Fabric or Textiles For Everyone. 1. Burning and other simple test 2. Microscopic examination II. FABRIC CHARACTERISTICS 3. Fiber identification stains Teaching Content 4. Chemical solubility: quantitative identification

A. Describing Fabric Appearance E. Grades of Fibers 1. Color 1. Cotton 2. Pattern a. Staple length 3. Texture b. Grade 2. Wool B. Describing Fabric Hand 3. Man-made fibers C. Describing Fabric Weight 1. By end-product use Learning Experiences 2. By typical industry terminology 1. Demonstrate some simple tests such as the burning D. Determining Face of Fabric test, the wet-dry strength test, a simple acid test, to 1. Major characteristics identify the fiber content of several unknown fiber 2. Designer choice fabrics and have students perform similar tests. 3. Factors limiting designer 2. Have students examine their own wardrobes and make a chart showing the fiber content and the E. Fabric Traditional Names description of the end-product item. Room should Learning Experiences be left on the chart to add information about the other elements of fabric manufacture that will be 1. Have students go through various fabrics in the presented in this area of instruction. bundle of fabric swatches. Each fabric should be 3. Arrange a field trip to a fiber producer, cotton gin, described, named if a traditional name is known cotton or wool warehouse, or the opening room of for that fabric, and the face identified. a mill during this module. 2. Assign students to find three traditional fabrics in 4. Show and discuss film:The Way It Is With Man their homes and classify according to fabric name, Made Fibers. fibers used, description of the fabric and the end product. 3. Have students see how many different fabrics they IV. YARNS can identify by traditional fabric name in their Teaching Content home. A. Types of Yarns and Properties of Each 1. Spun IIIFIBERS a. Cotton system Teaching Content b. Wool system 2. Filament A. Classification of Fibers 3. Textured filament 1. By origin 4. Stretch yarns 2. By generic class 5. Novelty yarns 3. By filament or spun 6. High bulk yarns B. Properties of Fibers 7. Ply yarns

25 B. Twist in Yarn 3. Basic weft knit machines 1. Direction a. Jersey 2. Amount b. Rib 3. Importance and effect c. Links 4. Relation to fabric type 4. Basic warp knit machines C. Yarn Numbering Systems a. Tricot 1. Relationship to weight b. Raschel 2. Major systems used 5. Fabric type produced on each of above machines a. Denier:rule of denier 6. Characteristics of knit fabrics b. Count:i ule of count C. Tufted Fabrics c. Tex:rule of tex number 1. How formed D. Yarn Quality Factors 2. End-products in current use 1. Uniformity 3. Characteristics 2. Neppiness D. Non-woven Fabrics 3. Fuzziness 1. How formed 4. Strength 2. End-products in current use 3. Characteristics Learning Experiences E. Other Fabrication Methods 1. Using a yarn of known size, have students approxi- 1. Lace mate the yarn size of several yarns of unknown size. 2. Braid These may be taken from fabric samples given to the students and the effect of yarn size on the Learning Experiences fabric hand and appearance can be discussed. 1. Arrange a field trip to local mills that either weave, 2. Select various fabric samples and have the students knit, tuft, or produce non-wovens, and/or show identify the quality factors of the yarns used, the and discuss film: Construction of Cloth. type of yarn, and the relationship between the 2. Have students identify the fabrication method em- yarns and the fabric appearance and hand. ployed to produce the fabrics in their swatch 3. Have students refer back to the chart begun in the bundle. module on fibers and add to each item information 3. Have students refer to the chart started in the about the yarn and its effect on the finished module on fibers and add information on the product. fabrication method and its effect on the finished 4. Show and discuss film:it erns Used in Making fabric. Cloth.

VI. DYEING AND PRINTING V. METHODS OF FABRICATION Teaching Content Teaching Content A. How Fabrics are Colored A. Woven Fabrics 1. Solution dyeing 1. Loom motions 2. Chemical reaction with dyestuff 2. Woven fabric terminology 3. Resin bonded pigments 3. Basic weave formation 4. Special weave effects B. Properties of Dye and Fiber Relationships a. Leno 1. Affinity b. Pile 2. Relative cost c. Dobby 3. Color fastness d. Jacquard 4. Metamerism 5. Fabric count 5. Availability of shades 5. Knitted Fabrics C. Major Dye Classes in Current Use 1. How knit fabrics are formed 1. Fibers on which each is used a. Weft knitting 2. Properties of each class b. Warp knitting D. Colorfastness 2. Knitted fabric terminology 1. Colorfastness and end-use

26 2. Simple tests 1. Alteration of hand E. Methods of Dyeing 2. Alteration of appearance 1. Recognition of each 3. Creation of performance characteristic a. Stock B. Nature of Finishing b. Top 1. Mechanical processes c. Yarn 2. Chemical additives d. Piece C. Major Types of Finishes and Fabrics on Which Used 1) Cross dye 1. Preparatory finishes 2) Union dye a. Shrinkage control 2. Reason for each b. Bleaching F. Methods of Printing c. Singeing 1. Roller d. Others 2. Screen 2. Basic finishes a. Hand a. Calendering b. Machine b. Napping c. Rotary c. Brushing 3. Heat transfer d. Filling 4. Other methods e. Mercerizing G. Types of Prints and Recognition f. Others 1. Direct 3. End-use finishes 2. Discharge a. Flame retardants 3. Resist b. Water repellents 4. Blotch c. Stain repellents 5. Overprint d. Permanent press 6. Duplex e. Others 7. Flock 8. Burn-out Learning Experiences 9. Warp 1. Using treated and untreated samples of similar H. Comparison of Wet-Process Prints and Pigment fabrics, demonstrate a water repellent finish and a Prints flame retardant finish. 1. Processing steps 2. Have students identify the probable finishes em- 2. Cost ployed on ten different samples from their fabric 3. Properties of each bundle Learning Experiences 3. Refer again to the chart begun in the fibers module and have the students add the inforniation on 1. Have students use a vegetable such as beets, onion, visible or tactile finishes and expected finishes. cabbage, etc. to prepare their own dyes. This is done by boiling the vegetable for a long period of time and then straining the solution. Then the VIII.FEDERAL LAWS AND REGULATIONS students can try to dye a cellulose fiber, a protein fiber, and a synthetic fiber in the dye they made. Teaching Content These dyed samples can then be tested for color- A. Fiber Labelling Laws fastness to light and laundering if the equipment is 1. Wool Products Act available. 2. Textile Fiber Products Identification Act 2. Have students identify the method of coloring used 3. Historic reasons for legislation on a variety of samples from the fabric bundles. 4. Requirements of laws 3. Have students refer to the chart begun in the fiber 5. Definitions of terms module and add the information on method of a. Virgin or new fiber coloring. b. Re-processed fiber VII.FINISHING c. Re-used fiber 6. Advertising requirements Teaching Content B. Flammability Laws A. Purpose of Finishing 1. History

27 2. Current standards and test methods Holten. N. and J. Saddler, Textiles 3. Outlook for additional standards in future Joseph. M. L. Introductory Textile Science 4. Effect on textile industry Linton, G. E. Applied Basic Textiles Potter. M. and B. Corbman, Textiles: Fiber to Fabric C. Care Labelling Regulations Stout, E. E. Introduction to Textiles 1. History Wingate, I. Textile Fabrics and Their Selection 2. Current status 3. Requirements PERIODICALS 4. Standard and test methods American Fabrics Learning Experiences Daily News Record Modern Textiles 1. Have students bring in labels, or advertisements which feature labels, for evaluation and discussion of contents. AUDIOVISUAL AIDS 2. Using special, incorrectly prepared labels, havestu- Cloth: Fiber to Fabric. 17 min., 16mm color film, sound dents identify the illegal labels and re-design them Encyclopedia Brittanica, Education Corporation, 425 correctly. N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, III. 60611 Construction of Cloth. 25 min., 30 color slides with written commentary and 20 fabric swatches keyed to Suggested Evaluation program Introduction to Textiles.30 min.. 32 color slides with 1. Given a set of swatches, students are evaluatedon written commentary and 18 fabric swatches keyed to their ability to recognize 40 to 50 basic fabrics by: program Yarns Used in Making Cloth. a. Classic name 25 min., 32 color slides with written commentary and 22 fabric swatches keyed b. Method of construction to program c. Type of yarn used Fairchild Visuals, 7 East 12th St., New York, N.Y. d. Finishes where apparent 10003 e. Appropriate end-uses Textiles for Everyone.15 min., color filmstrip, sound American Textile Manufacturers Institute, 1501 John. f. Expected performance of the fabric ston Building. Charlotte, N.C. 28200 2. Students are evaluated on their ability to doa The Way It Is With Man Made Fibers.27 min., 16mm cloth count of either a woven or knitted fabric. color film, sound 3. Students can demonstrate their awareness of laws E. I. Dupont de Nemours and Co., Product Informa- relating to textiles by documenting information tion Section, Textile Fibers Dept., Centre Road Bldg.. Wilmington, Delaware provided by a salesperson or clipping news items.

Teaching Resources INSTRUCTIONAL SUPPLIES Swatch bundles (as described in Instructional Guide- TEXTS AND REFERENCES lines) Fabric labels Cowan. M. L. Introduction to Textiles Samples of current fabrics Hall, A. J. The Standard Handbook of Textiles Testing equipment and supplies

:I I

28 FURS AND LEATHERS

Prerequisites: None performance. The construction of shoes, gloves, handbags, and fur garments is included to provide a basis for the evaluation of saleability, serviceability, and Suggested Hours: 30 quality factors. it is recommended that actual samples and examples of merchandise be utilized for teaching Behavioral Objectives content, demonstrations, and student learning experiences. To improve facility of communication, only the This area of instruction should enable students to: use of appropriate technical language should be 1. Be familiar with the structure of the industries permittedinclassdiscussions and presentations. involvedinthe production and marketing of Community resources should be used for on-site leather and fur products. visitations and student observation of the manufac- 2. Know the processes used in the preparation of turing or finishing processes. raw hides for finished leathers and furs. 3. Distinguish between different types of leathers, Suggested Hours and identify their properties and performance as Teaching Modules they relate to their end-use in apparel and acces- I.Overview of Leather and Fur sories. I ndustr ies 5 4. Evaluate the selling features and quality of leather II.Processing Raw Hides into Finished shoes in terms of construction, size ranges, and Leathers and Furs 3 basic style factors. Leathers 2 5. Evaluate the selling features and quality of leather IV. Shoes 5 gloves in terms of construction, size ranges, and V. Gloves 5 basic style factors. VI. Handbags 5 6. Evaluate the selling features and quality of hand- VII. Furs 5 bags in terms of construction and basic style factors. Total Hours 30 7. Distinguish between different types of furs, and identify their properties and end-use performance. I. OVERVIEW OF LEATHER AND FUR INDUSTRIES 8. Use the correct terminology to identify leather and fur products, and production processes. Teaching Content A. Leathers Instructional Guidelines 1. Analysis of leather market structure a. Tanneries This area of instruction gives the students preparing b. Leather distributors and handbags for a career in merchandising a knowledge and under- c. Manufacturers of shoes, gloves, standing of the fashion products that are composed of d. Manufacturers of apparel leather and fur. The depth of information that is 2. Scope and importance of each segment required by production technologistsisomitted, 3. Nature of primary and secondary producers since it is not essential to the successful buying and a. Producers of leather materials and selling of fur and leather items. b. Producers of leather apparel and accessories Teaching content includes a brief overview of the B. Furs industries involved in producing these products, the 1. Analysis of fur market structure processing of raw hides into various types of finished a. Fur auctioneers leathers and furs, and their respective properties and b. Wholesalers

29 c. Producers offur apparel and accessories B. Processing of Furs 2. Scope and importance 1. Dressing 3. Nature of primary and secondaryproducers 2. Dyeing a. Produce, s of raw materials a. Blending b. Procedures of finished apparel andaccessories b. Bleaching Learning Experiences c. Stenciling 3. Glazing 1. Assign individual studentsto research the names of 4. Plasticizing the leading leather firms and tradeassociations in Learning Experiences the United States, and have differentstudents contact different companies to request the lit- 1. Have students obtainscraps of leather, mount erature that deals with their activities. them and under each sample, write theprobable 2. Plan a behind-the-scenes field tripto any leather tanning procedure. goods producer in thearea. Arrange for a market- 2. Distribute leather scraps, and havestudents identify ing executive to explain their methodsin distribut- the various finishes and suggest productuses ing their products. according to type of finish. 3. Have students beginone or more notebooks of 3. Have students selecta busy street or store for a leather and fur terminology. one hour analysis of the kinds of furs beingworn 4. Assign students to research magazinesand news- by passers-by. Have students reporton how many paper ads, and list any of the trade names that furs they recognized, howmany they failed to relate to either the leather and/or furindustries. recognize and why, and howmany seemed to defy Have class exchange informationon their findings recognition because they had been dyed. and enterintheir notebook of terminology. Ill. LEATHERS II.PROCESSING RAW HIDESINTO FINISHED LEATHERS AND FURS Teaching Content A. Variations in Leather Fashions Teaching Content 1. Texture A. Leathers 2. Color 1. Preparation of raw leathers 3. Types a. Soaking 4. Seasonal variations b. Fleshing B. Classification by Animal Family Group c. Dehairing 1. Cowhides and calfskins d. Bating a. Saddle leather e. Pickling b. Rawhide f. The rockers c. Scotch gain g. The lay-away vats 2. Buffalo hides h. Washing 3. Horsehide i.Oiling 4. Deer, elk, and antelope skins j.Drying 5. Kid and goat skins 2. Tannage of leathers a. Gold kid a. Types of tannage b. Silver kid b. Distinguishing characteristics c. Bronze kid c. Relationships to texture and end-product d. Glad kid use e. Smooth kid 3. Finishing of leather f. Morocco leather a. Types of finishing processes g. Crushed kid b. Types of finishes 6. Kangeroo skin c. Distinguishing characteristics 7. Sheepskin ci. End-product use by type a. Shearling leather 4. Dyeing of leathers b. Chamois skins a. Methods c. Mocha leather b. Crocking d. Parchment

30 e. Capeskin 1. Elements of change 8. Pigskin a. Silhouette (last) 9. Marine Animals b. Heel heights and shapes a. Walrus c. Colors b. Alligator d. Leather types 10 Reptile family e. Textures a. Lizard f. Styles b. Snakeskin 2. Relationships of changes c. Reptile a. Current apparel fashions 11. Bird family b. Other accessories C. Man-made Leathers c. "Total" look 1. Plastics d. Seasonal fashion cycles 2. Simulated leathers B. Shoe Construction D. Relationships 1. Parts of a shoe 1. Leather properties a. Upper-outside a. Finishes b. Upper-inside b. Appearance and performance c. Sole c. Classification d Heel 2. End-product uses 2. Methods of construction a. Finishes a. Cemented b. Appearance and performance b. Littleway c. Classification c. Moccasin 3. Quality d. California (slip lasted) a. Grading e. Goodyear weft b. Hide sections f. St itchdown 3. Basic styles of shoes E. Care of Leather a. Sandal 1. Washing b. Pump 2. Drying c. Step-in or slip-on (loafer or moccasin) 3. Handling d. Oxford Learning Experiences e. Boat 4. Size ranges 1. Assemble a collection of pictures in which leather a. Lengths and widths products are used. For each one, explain to the b. Women's class why leather is used, what kind is used, and c. Men's how it is used. d. Infants' 2. Have students do a sales demonstration of a e. Children's leather product. 5. Relationships 3. Show samples of types of different leathers and a. End-product use have students suggest the end-use product appro- b. Shoe type priate for each type of leather, and justify their c. Style suggestion. d. Production cost 4. Bringintoclassa minimum of fourleather products. For each product have each student C. Federal Labeling Regulations compose a list of words or adjectives that are or can be used in advertising or personal selling to Learning Experiences promote the sale of the product. Have students 1. Assign students to cut out and mount pictures of compare lists and discuss the meanings of the the various lasts and styles of women's, men's, and words that are suggested. children's shoes. Have students indicate for each the type of leather best adapted, the type of heel, IV. SHOES the possible use, and the durability of the leather in relation to shoe type and interided use. Teaching Content 2. Assign students to analyze one display window of A. Variations in Fashion a local shoe store and list the styles that are being

31 featured, and the leathers and colors thatare 5. Size ranges shown. Have students compare their findings with a. Women's the shoe styles,leather, and colors that are b. Men's featured in current magazine or newspaper advert c. Children's tisements. In a class discussion based on students 6. Relationships findings and comparisons, come to conclusions a. End-uses on the important current shoe fashions in terms of b. Leather properties styles, colors, and types of leathers. c. Fit 3. Have students identify the various styles, types of d. Quality leather, and methods of construction of the shoes e. Price being worn by the students in the class. Leada C. Federal Labeling Regulations class discussionin terms of current fashions, durability, and serviceability of the different types Learning Experiences of shoes and leathers. 1. Pull apart and mount the parts of a glove. Have students identify each part. Discuss with class the V. GLOVES relationship and use of each part. Teaching Content 2. Arrange for an on-site visitation to the plant of a glove manufacturer to observe methods of produc- A. Variations in Fashions tion. 1. Elements of change 3. Assign students to bring into class various examples a. Lengths of men's, women's, and children's leather gloves. b. Textures Lead a class discussion on cost, fit, and quality c. Colors factors of each type. 2. Relationships of change 4. Have student groups discuss the relationship of a. Other accessories glove fashions to the current apparel fashions and b. Current apparel fashions suggest appropriate glove styles for different ap- c. "Total" look parel silhouettes. d. Seasonal fashion cycles B. Glove Construction VI.HANDBAGS 1. Parts of a glove Teaching Content a. Trank b. Thumb A. Variations in Fashions c. Fourchette 1. Elements of change d. Quirks a. Shape e. Lining b. Size 2. Manufacturing process c. Texture or materials a. Taxing d. Color b. Trank cutting 2. Relationships of change c. Slitting a. Current shoe fashions d. Pointing d. Current apparel fashions e. Closing e. "Total" look 3. Types of seams f. Seasonal fashion cycles a. Inseam B. Handbag Construction b. Outseam 1. Parts of a handbag c. Overseam a. Outside materials d. Pique b. Frame e. Half-pique c. Fasteners or zippers (closings) 4. Basic styles d. Linings a. Slip-on e. Inside coin purses b. Shorty f. Compartments or pockets c. Gauntlet g. Padding and reinforcements d. Mousquetaire h. Gussets e. Mitten 45 i.Handles

32 2. Manufacturing process B. Classifications Based on Animal Family Groups a. Cutting 1. Rodent family b. Assembling a. Beaver c. Sewing b. Nutria d. Framing or fastenings applied c. Muskrat 3. Basic handbag styles d. Marmot a. Underarm e. Squirrel b. Zipper f.Chinchilla c. Swagger g. Coney d. Vagabond 2. Weasel family e. Shoulder strap a. Russian sable f. Vanity b. Hudson Bay sable g. Tote c. Ermine 4. Relationships d. Mink a. Price e. Skunk b. End-product use f. Badger c. Quality 3. Cat family d. Suitability a. Leopard e. Design b. Ocelot f. Type c. Lynx 4. Canine family C. Federal Labeling Regulations a. Red fox Learning Experiences b. Silver fox c. Cross fox 1. Take apart an old handbag, mount, and identify d. White fox the various parts. Lead a class discussion on the e. Blue fox construction and the materials used. f. Gray fox 2. Assign students to collect and bring into class g. Wolf various handbag styles. Have students identify 5. Hoofed animals styles, suggestuses, and apply the criteria of a. Persian lamb saleability and serviceability to each type. b. Broadtail 3. Have students name the styles and identify the c. Caracul leathers of the handbags carried by the students in d. Mouton-processed lamb class. Discuss their practicality. e. American Broadtail processed lamb 4. Assign a student committee to survey the entire f.Kidskin school, for a specified time, to note and record the g Guanace importance of various styles, colors, and leathers 6. Miscellaneous of the handbags being carried by students and a. American oppossum teachers. Have the committee report findings to b. Australian oppossum theclass,andlead a discussion on handbag c. Raccoon fashions. Have students try to predict the forth- d. Alaska seal coming season's handbag fashion and give reasons for their predictions. C. Relationships 1. Fur properties VII. FURS a. Finishes b. Appearance and performance Teaching Content c. Classification A. Variations in Fur Fashions 2. End-product uses 1. Elements of change a. Finishes a. Type b. Appearance and performance b. Color c. Classification 2. Relationships of change 3. Quality a. Current apparel fashions a. Pelt thickness b. Cost b. Color

33 c. Hide section 1. Explain the methods of marketing leather and fur D. Fur Garments products. 1. Variations in fashion changes 2. Identify leather finishes ofa given number of a. Type of fur samples (leather chips). b. Color 3. Define or explain a given list of the terms used in c. Silhouette processing leathers and furs. 2. Construction 4. Classify leathers and furs by generic and animal a. Muslin pattern group classifications, and identify the properties b. Cutting and uses for each. c. Letting-out 5: Define the terms and identify elements of fashion d. Assembling changes, quality, construction, styles, and sale- e. Nailing ability factors of shoes, gloves, handbags, and fur 3. Care of fur garments garments. E. Relationships a. Suitability to customer type b. Current apparel fashion Teaching Resources c. Prestige value TEXTS AND REFERENCES d. End-product use e. Retail selling techniques Christopher, R. B. Glovemaking Flaherty, F., W. Roddy, and R. Lollar. Chemistry and F. Federal Labeling Regulations Technology of Leather G. Consumer Protest Movements Fuchs,V. R. The Economics of the Fur Industry Kaplan, H. Furskin Processing Learning Experiences Krohn, M. B. and P. W. Schwebke. How to Sew: Leather, Suede and Fur 1. Have students "buy" a fur coat (scarf, jacket) Quimby, H.R. Pacemakers of Progress: The Story of Shoes and discuss the fur selected, the basis for judging and the Shoe Industry the suitability of the fur, and the basis for judging Sevrin, W. Hand in Glove Terrell, 3.U. Furs by Astor the value. Thorstensen, T.C. Practical Leather Terminology 2. Assign students to collect one ormore advertise- Wingate,I., K. Gillespie, and B. Addison. Know Your ments that feature garments or accessories of real Merchandise and simulated furs. For "real fur" advertisements have students identify the animal family group, PERIODICALS the properties of the fur, the particular fashion and its relationship to current apparel fashions, and the Boot and Shoe Recorder Footwear News probable sequence of construction of the fur Fur Age Weekly product. For the simulated fur advertisements Handbags and Accessories have students identify the animal familygroup Leathers and Shoes that is being simulated, and compare the properties Women's Wear Daily of the simulated fur to the "real fur". 3. Lead a class discussion on the status appeal of furs INSTRUCTIONAL SUPPLIES versus the consumer protest movements relating to certain animal families. Have class suggest the Swatches of leathers and furs Discarded shoes, gloves and handbags effects on methods of retailing furs. Graphic presentations of parts of shoes, gloves, handbags and fur garments Suggested Evaluation Current advertisements of leather and fur products Mimeographed articles from trade publications Evaluation may be based on evidence of the student's Pamphlets from trade associations and manufacturers Current audiovisual aids being distributed by trade ability to: associations and manufacturers

34 Basic Skill Development Instruction

THE ELEMENTS AND COORDINATION OF FASHION

Prerequisites: Introductionto Fashion Marketing elements of design, apparel construction, basic apparel styles, and size ranges. Teaching emphasis should Suggested Hours: be on understanding and recognition of suggested 60 content rather than on the development of apparel construction skills that are not essential for fashion Behavioral Objectives competency or occupations in the fashion merchan dising field. This area of instruction should enable students to: It is recommended that all teaching content be pre- 1. Comprehend the multifaceted nature of fashion sented and visually illustrated by means of slides, merchandise. photographs, and/or merchandise examples. 2. Recognize the influence of social and economic factors on the movement of fashion. 3. Apply the principles of design when evaluating Teaching Modules Suggested Hours fashion products. 4. Recognize the construction elements of apparel Introduction and Orientation 6 products, and evaluate the quality of their work- Nature of Fashion 12 manship. Design Perception 10 5. Differentiate between basic apparel styles. Elements of Apparel Construction 10 6. Be familiar with the different size ranges of apparel Basic Apparel Styles 8 products. Apparel Size Ranges 6 7. Comprehend the interrelationships and coordina- Coordination of Fashion 8 tionofthevariouscomponentsoffashion Total Hours --- 60 merchandise. 8. Use thecorrectterminology to communicate fashion information and ideas. I. INTRODUCTION AND ORIENTATION 9. Be proficient in the perception of fashion. Teaching Content A. The Components of Fashion Instructional Guidelines 1. Socioeconomic influences 2. Color and design Understanding and perception of the various com- 3. Construction elements ponents of fashion merchandise are essential for 4. Basic style features occupational competency in careers having to do 5. Size ranges with the selection, use, arrangement, creation, co B. Applications in Fashion Merchandising ordination, buying, and/or selling of such merchandise. 1. Evaluation and selection of merchandise Equally as important is a knowledge of the language 2. Selling of merchandise of fashion for the effective communication and ex- 3. Communication for sales promotion activities change of fashion information and ideas. a. Fashion presentations This area of instruction is designed to develop the b. Advertising student's proficiency and competency in the percep- c. Display tion, communication, and coordination of fashion d. Publicity releases through an analysis of its various aspects. It covers 4. Training of employees the nature of fashion itself and its relation to the 5. Inter-industry communication

35 Learning Experiences 1. Art (Note:Collect and retain following student projects 2. Custom for use and comparative purposes in the last teaching 3. Utility module. Direct students to make a duplicate copy for 4. Science and technology future use.) 5. Imitation 6. Life styles 1. Assigndifferentclassificationsofmen's and 7. Dominating events women's apparel to different groups of students. 8. Dominating personalities Have students collect an advertisement of one 9. Current idealogy garment in their assigned classification P. nd prepare 10. Consumer acceptance a brief oral description of their garment for class E. Major Periods in Fashion Development presentation. After the students present their 1. Egyptian descriptions to the class, have them show the 2. Greco-Roman picture for class evaluation of the overall impres- 3. Byzantine sions they received from the description, and its 4. Medieval accuracy in terms of color, construction, silhouette, fabric, and style features. 5. Renaissance 2. Have students select an article or advertisement 6. Baroque from any written media (e.g. trade paper, magazine, 7. Empire newspaper) that contains terminology that they 8. Romantic believe to be related to the fashion industry. Direct 9. Modern students to identify the terminology by underlin- F. Prediction of Fashion ing the words. Have students list and classify the 1. Determination of trends words in relation to the different "ingredients" of 2. Criteria for evaluation fashion. 3. Forecasts of fashions 3. Show the class a garment and have each student write a description of it. Have students read their Learning Experiences descriptions for a class evaluation and/or rating of 1. Have students bring into class merchandise that the most accurate one. illustrates a current fashion or fashion trend and: a. Identify the fashion features II. NATURE OF FASHION b. State its present position on the fashion cycle c. Predict its future. Teaching Content 2. Have students bring into class any current or past A. Terminology and Definitions fashions that illustrate the influence of art on its 1. Fashion design or color. 2. Style 3. Have student committees research the development 3. Design of modern fashions and prepare visuals illustrating 4. Fad the major fashion features and changes of different 5. Classic periods. 6. Fashion trend 4. For each of the major factors that influence the birth of a new fashion, have students cite current B. Importance of Fashion fashions that have resulted, and how the factor 1. Economic factors may have influenced its emergence. 2. Social factors 5. From observation in the scho..1 over a given time, a. Psychological b. Sociological have students observe a particular style in apparel c. Historical oraccessories, and report onitsimportance, changes, variations, etc. that illustrate the principles C. Movement of Fashion and nature of fashion. 1. Evolutionary nature of changes 6. During this module bring intoclass, daily, a 2. Reasons for change "fashion" ad and have the students identify the 3. Factors governing fashion movements fashion features for the current season. 4. Nature of fashion cycles 7. Have students select a category of men's, women's, 5. Spread of fashion or children's apparel and observe in two different D. Influences on Fashions local stores how the selected item is promoted and

36 featured. Have students compare and/or contrast b. Methods of achieving balance the size of assortments, method of presentation, c. Examples of applications in fashions frequency of presentation, prices, etc. 3. Scale and proportion a. Relationships Ill. DESIGN PERCEPTION b. Methods of achieving proportion c. Examples of applications in fashion Teaching Content E. Criteria for Evaluation of Fashion Designs A. "Tools" of Fashion 1. Requisites of good design 1. Elements of design a. Orderly a. Line b. Expressive b. Texture c. Functional c. Color d. Individual d. Scale 2. Application of design principles e. Shape f.Proportion Learning Experiences 2. Expressions of fashion 1. Demonstrate with slides, sketches, or photographs a. Colors the evolution of silhouettes over a thirty year b. Textures period, and have students discuss and evaluate the c. Silhouettes silhouettes in terms of line, harmony, balance, and B. Color proportion. 1. Dimensions of color 2. Have students list social or traditional events that a. Hue are associated with a particular color, and try to Balance explain the relation of the color to the event. c.Intensity 3. Have students discuss the "fashion" colors in ap- 2. Color harmony parel and accessories for the current fall and spring a. Color wheel seasons and note if a trend can be predicted, based b. Color relationships on present usage and customer acceptance. c. Principles of color harmony 4. With the use of the color wheel, have class identify 3. Color moods the primary and secondary colors and discuss the 4. Examples of color applications in fashion importance of each in consumer buying habits. a. Fashion changes in color 5. Have students clip examples that illustrate applica- b. Seasonality of colors tions of the principles of color harmony. Direct c. Combinations of colors them to identify as being either monochromatic, d. Importance of color analagous, and/or complementary colors. e. Coordination of colors 6. Have various kinds of merchandise available for students to prepare a display that utilizes color, C. Texture scale, harmony, informal balance, or formal balance. 1. Types of textural effects 7. Have students cite examples of proportioned cloth- a. Visual ing and/or accessories, and ways and means to b. Tactile create illusion of proportion. 2. Methods of achieving effects 8. With swatches of textured materials, have students a. Structural suggest type of garments suitable for each. h. Surface applications 3. Examples of texture applications to fashion IV. ELEMENTS OF APPAREL CONSTRUCTION a. Fashion changes in textured effects b. Combinations of textures Teaching Content c. Coordination of textures A. Basic Elements of Construction and Their Function D. Silhouette and Shape 1. Types of stitches 1. Line 2. Types of seams and seam finishes a. Types of lines 3. Types of gathers, ruffles, and headings b. Character of lines 4. Types of darts and sucks c. Examples of line applications to silhouettes 5. Types of pleats 2. Balance 6. Types of hems, facings, and bindings a. Types of balance 7. Types of plackets, pockets, and the like

37 B. Criteria of Workmanship apparel for styles of collars, silhouettes, sleeves, 1. Seam allowances necklines, lapels, and the like. 2. Hand versus machine sewing 3. Have students collect apparel advertisements in 3. Finishing newspapers and magazines, and identify the styles 4. Type and quality of closings of sleeves, necklines, collars, silhouettes, etc. that 5. Matching of patterns, plaids, and stripes are illustrated. 6. Fit 4. Have students identify the types of basic apparel 7. Appropriateness of fabric style features that are currently in fashion such as sleeves, necklines, collars, silhouettes, etc. Learning Experiences 5. Assign students to visit a museum or do historical 1. Bring various types of garments into class and have research and have different students report on the students examine, analyze, and identify the con- characteristic style features of different historic struction elements by their technical name. Have periods. class evaluate the construction elements in relation 6. Have students discuss the relative importance to their function. them of the color and style features of merchandise 2. Bring similar types of merchandise into class and that they purchase. have students compare and evaluate the workmanship of the construction elements. VI. APPAREL SIZE RANGES 3. Have students collect examples of different kinds of pleats as illustrated in newspapers or magazines, Teaching Content and identify each type of pleat with its correct A. Structure of Industry technical name. 1. Divisions by sizes 4. Take students on a field trip to an apparel sewing 2. Size specializations of individual firms factory to have them observe the mass-production B. Size Ranges of construction elements. 1. Infants' and children's 5. Show students a low-priced and a high-priced a. Infants' garment of similar style and fabric. Have students b. Toddlers' compare the workmanship qualities of each. c. Children's d. Girls' V. BASIC APPAREL STYLES e. Boys' Teaching Content f. Subteens' 2. Women's A. Variations and Changes in Fashions a. Juniors' 1. Sleeves b. Junior Petites' 2. Necklines c. Misses' 3. Waists d. Women's 4. Collars e. Specializations (tall, chubby, extra-size, ma- 5, Skirts ternity, etc.) 6. Silhouettes 3. Boyswear B. Types of Styles 4. Menswear 1. Sleeves a. Suits 2. Necklines and collars b. Shirts 3. Waists c. Pants and slacks 4. Skirts 5. Dress silhouettes Learning Experiences 6. Coat silhouettes 1. Have students identify the sizes that they them- 7. Slacks and pants selves wear. 8. Lapels 2. Have students collect advertisements that feature 9. Jackets different size ranges, and discuss the relationship of the sizes to the type of merchandise featured. Learning Experiences 3. Lead a class discussion on the importance of size 1. Bring pattern book into class and have students when buying fashion merchandise, and have stu- identify various styles of apparel in the book. dents rate its importance in relation to other ele- 2. Have students name and identify their own wearing ments of fashion. ,

38 VII. COORDINATION OF FASHION 4. Illustrate with examples from past or current fashions or trends the interrelationship and coordina- Teaching Content tion of the various elements of fashion merchandise. A. Coordination of Interaction in Fashion Industry 1. Apparel and accessories 2. Undergarments and outergarments Teaching Resources 3. Men's, women's, and children's TEXTS AND REFERENCES 4. Design, construction, styles, sizes, and fashion movements Albers, J. Interaction of Color Anspech, K. The Why of Fashion B. Coordination and Uniformity of Fashion 8evlin, M. Design Through Discovery Terminology Birren, F. Principles of Color 1. Communication with consumers Chambers, B. Color and Design 2. Inter-industry communication Cheskin, L. Colors: What They Can Do For You Fourt, L. and N. Mollies. Clothing: Comfort and Function C. Coordination in Forecasting Fashions Hannan, W. The Mechanics of Sewing 1. Changing nature of fashion Horn, M. J. The Second Skin: An Interdisciplinary Study 2. Evolutionary nature of fashion changes of Clothing Itten, J. The Elements of Color 3. Inter-effects of changes in fashion elements Jamow, J. and B. Judelle. Inside the Fashion Business Learning Experiences Layer, J. The Concise History of Costume and Fashion Mansfield, E. Clothing Construction 1. Have students repeat one or more of the learning Nystrom, P. The Economics of Fashion experiences in Module I and compare their results Paschel, H. P. The First Book of Color with those previously achieved. Have students do a Pistolese, R. and R. Horsting. History of Fashions' Roach, M. E. and J. B. Eicher. Dress, Adornment and the self or class evaluation of their improvement in the Social Order perception of fashion elements, and in their ability Reich, Berman and Hager. Essentials of Clothing Construc- to use correct fashion terminology to communicate tion information about these elements. Ryan, M.S. Clothing: A Study in Human Behavior 2. Have students collect two or more advertisements of different categories of fashion products and PERIODICALS identity the interrelating fashion elements in each Clothes Magazine ad. Daily News Record 3. Have students analyze their own wearing apparel, Glamour identify the different fashion elements that they Mademoiselle Vogue find, and discuss the interrelationships of these Women's Wear Daily elements. 4. Organize class into groups for group discussions AUDIOVISUAL AIDS and conclusions on current trends in fashion and their implications for such other fashion elements There's Color In Your Life, 18 min., 16mm. color film, sound as style features, construction elements, and design Association Films, Broadway at Elm, Ridgefield, New elements. Jersey 07657 Color Concepts, 6 min., color filmstrip, sound J.C. Penney Co., Inc., Educational Relations, 1301 Ave. Suggested Evaluation of Americas, New York, N.Y. 10019 This Is Color, 27 min., 16mm. color film, sound Evaluation may be based on evidence which demon. Modern Talking Picture Service, Inc., 21 West 60th strates the student's ability to: Street, New York, N.Y.10023 1. Identify and explain a given number of the fashion terms covered in each teaching module. INSTRUCTIONAL SUPPLIES 2. Identify a given number of fashion influences and Examples of men's, women's and children's apparel explain by example how each influenced a past or and accessories (that illustrate teaching content) current fashion. Photographs, sketches and/or slides of past fashions 3. Analyze and evaluate a men's, women's or chil (that diustrate teaching content) dren's garment in terms of its design elements, its Advertisements of current fashions in apparel and accessories basic style characteristics, its construction elements Color wheels and the quality of workmanship. Swatches ol textured and textured-effect fabrics

c.10

39 FASHION SALESMANSHIP

PrerequisitPs: Basic Textiles; Furs and Leathers; Role-playing should be the major method of instruc- Elements and Coordination of Fash- tion and lecture time should be kept to minimum. To ion learn the v'swpoirsts of salespeople and customers, all students should be given as many opportunities to play both roles as class time permits. Field trips, on- Suggested Hours: 45 site observations, and sales-training aids used by local stores, that are generally available for loan, could Behavioral Objectives further serve to give the swdents an insight into "real life" selling observations.Itis recommended that This aro of instruction should enable tudents to: instructors solicit community resourcesforsales 1. Understand the importance of personal selling and training aids that can be used as instructional ma- the variety of occupational selling opportunities in terials, and obtain their permission for student ob- the fashion industry. servations and shopping reports. 2. Recognize the types of information that are needed for successfulselling and the possible Teaching Modules Suggested Hours sources of information. 3. Apply basic salesmanship techniques and pro- I. Introduction to Fashion Selling 4 cedures to the selling of fashion products. II. Essential Knowledge for Retail 4. Develop their judgment, confidence, and ability to Fashion Selling 6 function in different types of selling situations. III. Analysis of Selling Procedures 5. Adapt and apply basic selling techniques and and Techniques 10 principles to industrial selling situations. IV. Creative Selling Techniques 12 6. Apply the product knowledge acquired in pre- V. Preparation for Professional Retail requisite studies to the creative selling of fashion Selling Careers 5 merchandise. VI. Fashion Selling in Industrial Establishments 8 Total Hours 45 Instructional Guidelines I. INTRODUCTION TO FASHION SELLING This area of instruction is designed to develop the students'confidenceand competencyinselling Teaching Content fashion products. It covers basic principles and tech- A. Definition of Salesmanship niques of salesmanship that are equally applicable to retail and industrial selling in the fashion industry. B. Importance of Selling 1. Importance to the general economy Because of the ubiquitous nature of retailing and the 2. Importance to customers many job opportunities in the retail field, teaching 3. Importance to employers content and learning experiences emphasize the ap- 4. Importance to the fashion industry plication of selling techniques, procedures, and principles within the retail selling environment. It also in- C. Types of Selling cludes a module on industrial selling that can be ex- 1. Non-personal panded depending upon the employment opportu- a. Advertising nities in the community, the interests and job goals b. Display of the students, and the design and objectives of the c. Publicity school program. d. Self-service

40 2. Personal tomer. Have class discuss both differences and a. Direct selling within a firm similarities in selling at wholesale and retail b. Telephone selling levels. c. Demonstration selling 5. Organize a field trip to a local department store. d. Door-to-door selling The store program could include a panel of sales- e. In-home selling (party plans) people from various .fashion apparel accessories D. Methods of Compensation and fabric departments, and salespeople could 1. Salary describe their duties and actual selling jobs. In 2. Commission addition, arrange for students to be given a look 3. Combinations behind-the-scenes, such as the receiving and marking areas, and an overview of the store organiza- E. Occupational Opportunities in Fashion Industry tion. This experience should give students a better 1. Places of employment appreciation for the various and many activities a. Retail firms performed in the handling of merchandise, and the b. Industrial firms (producers and wholesalers) role of a salesperson in a retail organization. c. Independent sales representatives 6. Arrange a field trip with a local vendor (manu- 2. Career progression and advancement facturer, wholesaler, jobber) and ask for a sales a. Retail stores representative to describe the firm's selling pro- b. Manufacturers and wholesalers cedures to retailers and the role of the salesperson c. Professional careers as salespeople in the organization. Learning Experiences II. ESSENTIAL KNOWLEDGE FOR RETAIL FASHION 1. Have students identify and list retail and manu- SELLING facturing firms in the community who are in the apparel business, and decide which personal selling Teaching Content methods might be advantageously used by each type of firm. Discuss the need for each type of A. Apparel a id Textile Product Knowledge selling and what factors influence the methods of 1.I moon ance selling that are used. a. Inteliigant selection of merchandise 2. Have each student examine the clothes that they b. Use of correct terminology are t:earing and analyze each item for how and c. Communication of information to customers where it was bought; what selling procedures and/ d. Understanding of customer benefits or activities were involved; and their opinion of 2. Scope of Knowledge the salesperson's knowledge. Have students come a. Specific items in stock to conclusions on the importance of the sales- b. Fabrics and finishes person in their final decision to buy. c. Advantages and benefits 3. Have students report on their personal experiences d. Limitations with "good" and "bad" salespeople and explain e. Appropriate end-uses their classification of the salespeople as "good" or f. Maintenance and care factors "bad". g. Current fashions and trends 4. Have students spontaneously role-play the follow- h. Names of manufacturers 3. Sources of information ing two situations and have the class compare differences and similarities of wholesale and retail a. Hangtags and labels selling. Point up the value of stuuying salesman- b. Co-workers ship and the career opportunities in selling oc- c. Supervisors cupations. d. Advertisements and display signs e. Manufacturers a. Situation / Using students' own handbags, f.Libraries have one "student wholesaler" sell a "line of g. Personal experience handbags" to another stuoent acting as an h. Trade associations owner/store manager of a neighborhood retail i.Fashion coordinator store. b. Situation II Have a student role-play a retail B. Knowledge of Store "salesperson" in the neighborhood handbag ac- 1. Merchandise policies cessory store, selling a handbag to a retail cus- 2. Services offered

41 3. Advertisements 1. Importance of prompt approach 4. Special storewide promotions 2. Types of approaches 5. Store fashion "image" or reputation a. Service C. Knowledge of Customer Buying Motives b. Merchandise 1. Emotional c. Social 2. Rational d. Combination 3. Complexity of buying motives 3. Avoidance of stereotyped approaches 4. Major motives for buying fashion products C. Determination of Customer Needs Learning Experiences 1. Importance of determining needs quickly a. Prevention of lost sales 1. Divide class into groups of retail salespeople and b. Establishment of customer confidence retail customers. Have each group discuss and c. Saving of time come to conclusions on what they should or what d. Prevention of customer dissatisfaction they want to know about the merchandise that e. Evaluation of available merchandise to needs they are selling or buying. For example, customers 2. Methods of determination may want to know fashion features, washability a. Direct questions and/or other care factors, etc.; salespeople may b. Initial requests of customer want to know construction processes, appropriate c. Customer reaction to merchandise shown end-uses, etc. Come to conclusions on the informa- d. Clues during the sale tiona customer expects from salespeople and what a salesperson should know. D. Development of the Sales Presentation 2. Have each student collect a given assortment of 1. Relation of merchandise facts to customer apparel and accessory hangtags, labels, advertise- benefits ments, and bill enclosures. For each item collected, a. Appeal to buying motives direct students to list the information in it that b. Satisfaction of customer needs may be used as setting points or benefits to a cus- c. Emphasis on benefits tomer. Display the various student collections and 1) Telling of facts have students evaluate the different types of items 2) Selling of benefits as a source of product or service information for 2. Merchandise facts salespeople. a. Fashion features 3. Have students discuss why they buy new clothing b. Distinctive features and accessories, and identify their reasons as either c. Fabric emotional or rational. Have class come to con- d. Construction clusions on the implications of consumer fashion e. Maintenance and care buying motives for salespeople. f. Performance 4. Have each student collect two or more apparel g. Others and/or accessory ads, identify the buying motives 3. Development of a selling vocabulary to which each appeals, and underline the specific a. Use of customer "language" appeal words in the ad. Have class come to con- b. Use of fashion terminology clusions onthe dominant motivesin buying c. Avoidance of "tired" words and phrases fashion products and their implications for sales- E. Presentation of Merchandise people. 1. Initial showing of medium priced merchandise 2. Handling merchandise with respect III. ANALYSIS OF SELLING PROCEDURESAND 3. Limiting the amount of merchandise shown TECHNI QUES 4. Removing unwanted items quickly 5. Dramatizing the merchandise Teaching Content 6. Getting customers to handle merchandise A. AIDA Pattern 1. Encouraging customers to try on merchandise 1. Getting attention F. Closing the Sale 2. Developing interest 1. Assistance with buying decisions 3. Creating desire a. Suggestions for buying decisions 4. Inducing action b. Narrowing of selection possibilities B. Approach to Customers 2. Overcoming of objections %)

42 Learning Experiences 1. Suggestion selling 1. Have class practice and evaluate selling approaches a. Explanation of suggestion selling by means of Flash Card situations. For example, b. Types prepare situations similar to the following on c. Tim'ng flash cards, for response by individual students d. Service to customer within 10 seconds in answer to the question "What e. Benefits to salesperson approach would you use"?, and class evaluation of 2. Substitute selling responses: a. Explanation of substitute selling a. A customer who has not looked at merchan- b. Appropriateness of substitutes dise approaches the handbag counter, and you, c. Service to customer the salesperson, are not busy. d. Benefits to salespeople b. A waiting customer is looking at sweaters on B. Overcoming Objections display, and you, the salesperson, are just cc, 1. Types of objections pleting a transaction. a. Real and valid c. A customer who has not looked at merchandise b. Excuses approaches you. You, the salesperson, are 2. Examples of common objections waiting on another customer. a. Price of product d. A customer who may have been approached by b. Need of customer another salesperson. c. Characteristics of product 2. Assign students to prepare a given number of ex- d. Performance of product amples of merchandise approaches for apparel and 3. Examples of techniques for overcoming objec- accessory products. tions 3. Have classpractice Starter Questions in deter- a. Translation of objections into selling points mining customer needs. For example, if a cus- b. Additional explanationofobjectionable tomer says, "I need some bedroom slippers", a features starter question might be, "Are you completing a c. Emphasis on superior features of merchandise particular lounge outfit or are you looking for C. Handling Problem Situations generally functional bedroom slippers?" If a cus- 1. Examples of problem situations tomer says; "I am looking for a top for a skirt", a a. Two or more customers shopping together starter question might be, "What color is your b. Irritable customers skirt?" c. Argumentative customers 4. Have each student list 10 "tired" words or phrases d. Silent customers thatare overused in selling situations such as e. "Just looking" customers "cute", "just for you", "high class", etc. and have f. Others class discuss their reaction to these words. 2. Techniques for handling 5. Have students prepare alistof "Magic Selling Words" that they consider lively, effective, and D. Preventing Lost Sales appropriate for apparel and/or accessory products, 1. Examples of reasons for lost sales and that make use of correct fashion terminology. a. Salesperson's disinterest Direct students to use varied sources of informa- b. High pressure selling tion, such aslabels,tags, advertisements, dic- c. Lack of courtesy tionaries, brochures, and identify their sources. d. "Over-rushing" 6. Have some students role-play a series of prepared e. Arguments or spontaneous selling situations, using their own f.Lack of suitable merchandise clothing for merchandise, for class observation, 2. Methods of minimizing lost sales evaluation, and discussion of approaches, sales a. Selling techniques presentations,merchandisepresentations,and b. Personal interest and attitudes closings of sales. Learning Experiences

1 Have students report on any merchandise that they IV. CREATIVE SELLING TECHNIQUES themselves (or friends and relatives) may have bought as a result of suggestion selling by a sales- Teaching Content person, and discuss and .,lassify examples accord- A. Increasing Sales ing to suggestions for (a) larger quantities, (b) re-

43 lated items, (c) specially priced merchandise, (d) ismiddle-aged and generally conservative. new products, (e) others. You want to spend about $8.00. Find some 2. Have students role-play a series of prepared or objection to the first two slips the sales- spontaneous selling situations and give the "salesperson shows you, e.g., "This one looks people" instructions to include an example of sug- too tight fitting" or "too fancy." Buy a gestion selling and/or substitute selling. Direct the slip, using your judgment and depending on students wIlp are observing the role-playing to thesalesperson'srecommendations.Buy note and evaluate the use and techniques of sub- something else only if salesperson suggests stitute and/or suggestion selling. it. 3. Have students do short practice exercises in over- 2) Instructions to Students Observing coming objections by having students (a) write an Notice the way the salesperson meets cus- example of a hypothetical objection as a customer tomer's objections. Is it effective? Does she might express it, (b) exchange cards with a fellow use selling points? student, (c) respond to the objection that they 3) Discussion Points received. a) What are customer's reactions to the sales- 4. Assign each student, or groups of students, to person's suggeitions? prepare a brief narrative report of an actual selling b) Were customer's objections an indication situation for "acting out" or for reading to the that she was not going to buy? classfor a discussion of selling procedures and c) How can objections be overcome? techniques. The following is a suggestion for a b. Trading Up Selling Situation sample report: 1) Instruction to Customer "Salesperson greeted me pleasantly and I told her Shop for a .Ask to see an I would like to see a black coat. Salesperson asked item about $ .If the salesperson shows ifI wanted a fur-trimmed or untrimmed coat. I you better merchandise also, show some in- told her I preferred one with a fur collar. Sales- terest init,but say itis more than you person showed me several styles, commenting planned to spend. If the salesperson is not on each one. I selected one and salesperson told discouraged, but tells you why the more ex- me it was the right size and looked well, 100% pensive one is a better buy, let her convince wool, hand tailored, dyed beaver collar and a you to take it. good buy at $109. I hesitated, told salesperson that I would like my mother to see the coat. 2) Instructions to Students Observing She said nothing. What should or might have Notice how the salesperson uses facts and been done to close this sale?" benefits to convince the customer that it's 6. Prepare situations that relate to Selling Judgment worthwhile to pay more. and distribute to student groups. Have group dis- 3) Discussion Points cuss each situation, and select a group leader to What are customer's reactions to higher report their "selling judgment" to the class for a priced merchandise? class evaluation and discussion of group answers. c. Silent Customer Problem The following is an example of a situation: "A cus- 1) Instruction to Customer tomer has decided to boy 3 garment that pleases Shop for a and ask to see one. her very much. After she has said that she wishes As the salesperson shows you merchandise to purchase it, the salesperson discovers a defect in remain silent. If the salesperson asks you di- it that the customer n.1% riot noticed, and that the rect questions be as non-committal and eva- salesperson had not seen up to this time. It is the sive as possible. Do not express any opinions only article of its kind in stock. What's your sell- or reactions to the merchandise or the price. ing judgment?" If the salesperson is not discouraged let her 6. Have students role-play different types of prepared sell you the item for which you are shopping. situations that call for the Ise of creative selling 2) Instructions to Students Observing techniques. Prepare discussion points for each situ- Notice the way in which the salesperson re- ation. Following are examples of such prepared acts to the customer's silence and lack of re- situations: action. Is she/he too easily discouraged? Did a. Overcoming Objections the salesperson ask the type of questions 1) Instructions to "Customer" which might have clarified what the silent

Shop for a slip as a gift for your aunt who 1 customer really wanted?

44 3) Discussion Points 1. Types of selling environments Was customer's silence an indication of a. Showrooms whether he/she was or was not interested b. Travelling salesmen in buying? c. Customer's offices 7. Have students give examples of personal shopping 2. Types of industrial customers experiences in which they did not buy because of a.Retailers a salesperson's attitude or selling technique. b. Distributors 3. Volume of sales V. PREPARATION FOR PROFESSIONAL RETAIL 4. End-use of merchandise (resale purpose) SELLING CAREERS 5. Financial compensation Teaching Content a. Emphasis on commission b. Drawing accounts A. Comprehension of Job Responsibilities and Func- tion c. Opportunities for greater income 1. Function 6. Job responsibilities a.Locating outlets and customers a. Service to customers b. Service to employer b. Following up on customers 2. Examples of job responsibilities c. Continual servicing of customers d. Advice to customers a. Serves customers e. Following up on delivery of merchandise sold b. Records sales f.Calling on customers c. Wraps merchandise d. Keeps stock in order g. Writing up customers' orders e. Assists with inventory counts B. Essential Knowledge for Wholesale Fashion Selling f.Handle; customer complaints 1. Company policies and procedures B. Self-Appraisal of Personal Qualifications a.Distribution policies 1. Physical b. Terms of sale 2. Emotional c. Return goods policies 3. Social d. Delivery dates 4. Personal values e. Shipping procedures f.Productive capacity Learning Experiences g. Customer promotional aids 1. Assign students to observe and analyze, for a given h. Plant operations time period, the activities of one or more sales- i.Seasonal timing people in a retail store and report on their activities. 2. Merchandise information Have class ciassify the activities reported. a. Cost and suggested retail price 2. Have students bring into class one or more sales- b. Construction of products checks and/or selPs tickets from purchases that c.Materials of products they have made, and analyze the salesperson's role d. Competitive offerings and responsibility relating to it. e. Current fashions and fashion trends 3. Divide class into groups and direct each group to f.Style numbers of products make a list of the personal qualifications that they g. Available colors and sizes believe an effective salesperson needs. List qualifi- 3. Customer information fications on the blackboard by classifications such a.Procedures in retailing as physical, emotional, aptitudes, personal values, b.Types of retailers etc. Have students publicly or privately compare c.Retail buying procedures and activities their own qualifications in order to increase their d.Names of buyers self-understanding, and have them evaluate their e.Resident buying offices and affiliations qualifications for selling as a professional career f.Potential buying volume of customers and/or as an entry job leading to career progression. g.Rational nature of buying motives VI. FASHION SELLING IN INDUSTRIAL ESTAB- h. Sources of information about customers LISHMENTS C. Comparison to Retail Selling Techniques 1. Approach Teaching Content a. Pre-approach-research and customer informa A. Differences Flom Retail Selling tion .i 45 b. Appointment Suggested Evaluation c. Importance of correct timing 2. Developing the sales presentation 1. Students may be evaluated on evidence of their a. Emphasis on profit factors ability to describe a specific problem selling situ- b. Emphasis on distinctive features ation other than one that has been used in class, c. Use of retail "language" and the method in which it might be handled by a d. Emphasis on factual information salesperson. e. Information about delivery 2. Evaluate students' response to a taped selling situ- 3. Presentation of merchandise ation in terms of their ability to judge: a. Demonstrations a. The appropriateness of the approach b. Dramatization b. The method that was used to determine what 4. Closing the sale the customer wanted a. Special inducements to buy c. The salesperson's ability to "tell the facts and b. Limitations of supply, if valid sell the benefits" c. Confirmation of order d. The techniques used to overcome an objection D. Career Opportunities in Industrial Fashion Selling and close the sale 1. Scope of industrial opportunities in the com- e. The salesperson's ability to suggest appropriate munity accessories or other merchandise. 2. Advantages and limitations of industrial selling 3. Evaluate students on evidence of their ability to develop alist of two or more effective selling sentences for each of the following selling pro- Learning Experiences cedures: 1. Divide class into groups for a discussion and group a. Two different types of possible approaches report on what they, as potential professional retail b. Questioning a customer about her wants or buyers, would want to know about their suppliers needs and their product offerings. Classify the informa- c. Relating a fashion merchandise fact to a cus- tion suggested by each group, and have students tomer benefit come to conclusions on the information expected d. Encouraging a customer to try on a garment from an industrial salesman. e. Suggesting that the customer make a final buy- 2. Have students report on the similarities and dif- ing decision. ferences in industrial anu retail selling, and come to conclusions as to whether the "same person" can Teaching Resources be successful in both. Have students give reasons for their conclusion. TEXTS AND REFERENCES 3. Have students, individually or in groups, select a "line" of fashion merchandise and identify the Haas, K. and J. Ernst. Creative Salesmanship Kirkpatrick, C. Salesmanship stores in the community that are potential custom- Reid, A. Modern Applied Salesmanship ers. Robinson, 0., Robinson, C., and G. Zeiss. Successful Retail 4. Using the same merchandise, have the same students Salesmanship role-play two selling situations, one between an in- Russell, F., Beach, F., and R. Buskirk. Textbook of Sales- manship dustrial seller and a retail buyer, and a second be Wingate, I. and C. Nolan. Fundamentals of Selling tween a retail seller and ultimate consumer. Have class compare, discuss, and evaluate the difference PERIODICALS in selling procedures. 5. Have students prepare a checklist of the sequential Daily News Record Women's Wear Daily procedures they would follow in preparation for a selling trip. INSTRUCTIONAL SUPPLIES 6. Arrange to have selected students observe a store buyer and vendor in a sales situation. Have the Sales training manuals: available without cost from students report to class the differences between National Cash Register Co.. Dayton, Ohio Sales training aids available for loan from large local this selling situation from those most familiar to retail stores (often include film strips, slide presen- them as retail customers. tations, selling programs, and the like)

46 RETAIL FASHION MERCHANDISE PLANNING AND CONTROL

Prerequisites: None the viewpoint of the merchandiser, and is arrangedto provide a learning tool for the student. Suggested Hours: 60 This area of instruction covers the concepts, terms, practices, procedures, and calculations of mathematics in retail merchandising. It includes the influence of Behavioral Objectives expense and other elements of the profit and loss This area of instruction should enable student to: statement; the procedures, calculations, and forms 1. Understand the importance and use of numbers in used in controlling stocks by the Retail Method of In- the merchandising of fashion. ventory; the determination of stock shortages; the 2. Apply basic arithmetic to retail selling. pricing of goods by markup methods; the repricing of 3. Recognize the basic components of profit, and goods through markdowns; terms of sales; the budget- understand their relationship and manipulation to ing through seasonal planning of purchases, turnover, improve profit. and open-to-buy; and results of performance as re- flected in an operating statement. 4. Know the method, procedures, and systems that are used in large retail stores to determine inventory Through the calculation of problems that illustrate value. actual business practices, the student will develop an 5. Understand considerations that govern the profita- understanding of the decisions required, and the basis ble pricing of merchandise. for solving merchandising problems, mathematically. 6. Be familiar with the terms of sale that a retail buyer It is suggested that a pre-test of basic arithmetic skills negotiates when buying merchandise for resale. be administered during the first class session. It should 7. Understand the techniques and systems used to test the level of class competency with the greatest plan and control stocks and purchases in relation emphasis on decimals and percentages. A continuing to sales. learning experience should be to review, correct, and 8. Be familiar with a merchandise operating statement. further explain the practice problems that should be 9. Develop a proficiency in merchandising arithmetic, assigned for homework by the teacher at every session. and apply basic formulas in solving merchandising It is suggested that additional time be scheduled fora problems mathematically. remedial clinic, from which the more proficient stu- 10. Acquire the terminology of merchandising planning dent can be excused. and control. It is further recommended that the permission of local merchants be obtained for the student shopping re- Instructional Guidelines ports and on-site visitations included in the suggestions for learning experiences. Numbers are the language of the fashion business. Basic arithmetic of whole numbers, fractions, decimals, and percentages are used to solve merchandising problems. The subject matter of this area of study is of value Teaching Modules Suggested Houtz to those employed or involved, directly or indirectly, in the buying of merchandise for resale. It is of impor- I. Introduction to the Concept of tance to manufacturers and wholesalers who sell to re- Numbers in Merchandising 2 tailers, as well as to the agencies providing consultation II. Application of Basic Arithmetic services, for then they car. see the problems of their in Retail Selling 3 customers in the proper light. The approach is from III. Profit and Loss Statements 11 EJj 47 IV. Retail Method of Inventory in d. Finding employee discounts Fashion Merchandising 8 e. Figuring sales tax V. Retail Pricing and Repricing of f.Figuring delivery charges Fashion Merchandise 16 2. Cash register records VI. Invoice Mathematics 6 3. Daily tally sheets VII. Dollar Planning and Control 12 B. Employee Earnings VIII. Merchandise Operating Statements 2 1. Figuring payrolls Total Hours 60 a. Hour rate basis b. Overtime I. INTRODUCTION TO THE CONCEPT OF NUMBERS c. Commissions IN MERCHANDISING 2. Figuring take home pay a. Social Security Teaching Content b. Taxes A. Solving Merchandising Problems Mathematically c. Miscellaneous 1. Use of numbers in buying activities C. Weights and Measures 2. Use of numbers in selling activities 1. Totaling the sale 3. Need of ability to record, interpret, and analyze 2. Finding price of fractional quantities figures from records Learning Experiences B. Merchandising Decisions Based on Numerical Facts 1. Pricing and repricing of goods 1. Bring into class examples of salescheck forms, 2. Size of stocks to be carried social security forms, tax returns, etc. Have stu- 3. Quantities of merchandise (units) to be bought dents calculate and complete the forms from ap- and reordered propriate information furnished by the instructor. 4. Dollar amounts of merchandise to be purchased 2. Have any students who have had work experience, C. Merchandising Concepts Expressed in Numbers report to the class on the use of numbers in per- forming their jobs. 1. Markup percentage 3. Give appropriate practical business problems for 2. Markdown percentage student calculation. 3. Turnover 4. Profit III. PROFIT AND LOSS STATEMENTS D. Merchandising Success Expressed in Numbers 1. Sales volume Teaching Content a. Store A. Definition of Profit b. Departments c. Classifications B. Merchandising Importance of Profit Calculations 2. Profit 1. Permits exchange of data to determine strengths and weaknesses Learning Experiences 2. Indicates direction of business (prosperous ver- 1. Have students list any five professions. For each sus bankrupt) profession, discuss the relation of numbers to job 3. Provides a statement of analysis for changes in performance. management, policy, and the like 2. Have students clip from newspapers, magazines, 4. May result in improvement of profit etc. any business articles where figures (numbers) C. Responsibilities for ProfitinRetail Operations are an important aspect of the article. 1. Buyer a. Department stores II. APPLICATION OF BASIC ARITHMETIC IN RE. b. Chain operations TAIL SELLING D. Basic Factors that Affect Profit Teaching Content 1. Operating income (sales volume minus net sales) A. Retail Selling 2. Total cost of merchandise sold 1. Sales check calculations 3. Operating expenses a. Totaling the sale E. Definitions and Calculations of Basic Factors b. Finding unit selling prices 1. Operating income (net sales) c. Finding price of fractional quantities . a. Gross sales "*...r

48 b. Customer returns IV. RETAIL METHOD OF INVENTORY IN FASHION c. Net sales MERCHANDISING 2. Total cost of merchandise sold a. Billed cost Teaching Content b. Inward freight charges A. Importance of Perpetual Inventory Control c. Alteration and workroom costs 1. Controls for buying and promotional activities d. Cash discounts 2. Seasonal stock fluctuations of fashion merchan- 3. Operating Expenses dising a. Direct or controllable 3. Obsolescence of fashion goods b. Indirect or fixed B. Why Stores "Think at Retail" F. Relationship of Basic Profit Factors 1. Consistency in figures for correct comparison 1. Structure of skeletal profit and loss statement a. Sales at retail prices a. Net sales b. Stocks at retail value b. Cost of goods sold 2. Use of retail values c. Gross margin a. Operational comparisons d. Operating expenses b. Insurance claims e. Net profit c. Income taxes 2. Calculation of skeletal profit and loss statement d. Others a. In dollars C. Retail Method of Inventory Control b. In percentages 1. Characteristics G. Final Profit and Loss Statements a. Department control 1. Calculation b. Semi-annual physical count at current retail 2. Analysis of performance prices H. Improvement of Profits c. Cost value of inventory derived from retail 1. Understanding interrelationship of basic factors value 2. Approach possibilities d. Maintenance of records and data pertaining a. Increasing sales with a proportionate increase to any merchandise movement in the cost of merchandise, and little or no 2. Responsibilities increase in expenses a. Buyer and/or assistant b. Decreasing cost of merchandise sold without b. Statistical department decreasing sales 3. Procedure c. Lowering or reducing expenses a. Physical inventory count b. Perpetual book inventory figure I.Variations of Profit Percents in Different Fashion c. Shortage or overage Departments 4. Calculations Learning Experiences a. Perpetual 1. Have students list the necessary expenses in op- b. Shortage or overage erating a small retail store. Then assign students to 5. Causes of shortage or overage interview local merchandisers in retail stores and a. Clerical report to the class the expenses the merchants in- b. Physical cur. A comparison and discussion of the two lists 6. Relationship of shortage should follow. a. Buyer's responsibilities 2. Bring into class (either students or teacher) a typical b. Net profit or loss Annual Financial Statement published by a large D. Evaluation of Retail Method of Inventory organization. Have students identify the words 1. Advantages with which they are familiar, and discuss the op- a. Control over inventories and profit eration of the fim under consideration. b. Simplification of physical inventory counts 3. Bring into class (either students or teacher) the c. Determination of shortages and possible pre- Annual Financial Statements of two different types ventive measures of organizations. Have students compare the final d. Basis for insurance claims results and discuss possible causes of differences. 2. Limitations 4. Have students calculate problems. Assign home- a. Lack of cost evaluation of inventory at cur- work problems. rent retail

49 b. Extensive record keeping required for ac- 3. Basic pricing factors curacy a. Cost c. Careful supervision required to prevent ma- b. Retail price nipulation c. Markup 4. Explanations and definitions Learning Experiences a. Original retail price 1. Collect and bring into class examples of various b. Selling price store forms used in maintaining a perpetual book c. Markup inventory. Have class discuss, after identifying each d. Initial markup or markon form, the function of each form. e. Maintained markup 2. Have class discuss the causes of shortages in retail 5. Formulas and calculations under Retail Method stores, and the prevention of shortages. of Inventory 3. Have students give examples of their personal ex- a. Retail periences in stores that may have caused shortages. b. Dollar markup 4. Review homework problems, have students calcu- c. Markup percentage late new problems, and assign homework problems. d. Cost 6. Formulas and calculations on cost base V. RETAIL PRICING AND REPRICING OF FASHION 7. Applications and examples MERCHANDISE 8. Relationships Teaching Content a. Basic profit factors b. Net profit A. Price Lining 9. Variations in markup percentages on fashion 1. Structure merchandise a. Price lines a. Causes b. Price zones b. Implications for retailers c. Price ranges c. Calculations of deviations from aggregate 2. Advantages markup a. Completeness of assortments at best selling C. Markdowns of Fashion Merchandise price points 1. Purpose b. Ease of maintaining stock assortments a. To dispose of unsalable merchandise c. Ease of setting retail prices b. To keep stocks fresh and clean d. Simplification of sales promotion presenta- c. To make necessary price adjustments tions 2. Causes e. Simplification of marking and booking a. Poor styles, materials, quality, etc. 3. Limitations b. Overbuying a. Difficulty of adjustment to changing whole- c. Calculated risks: "prestige" merchandise sale prices d. Incorrect sizes due to unbalanced buying or b. Hampers buyer's market activities accepting sizes contrary to order 4. Responsibilities e. Incorrect colors a. Buyer f. Broken assortments, remnants, damages, dis- b. Store management continued lines of merchandise 5. Prevalence in fashion merchandising g. Special sales from stock B. Retail Pricing h. Competitive factors 1. Considerations 3. Typical price change procedures a. Store policies a. Authorization for price change b. Correlation among departments b. Record of price change c. Competition c. Signatures d. Nature of fashion goods d. Physical price change on tickets e. Wholesale costs e. Disposition of forms f. Customary retail prices ("suggested" retail 4. Calculations price) a.In dollars 2. Responsibilities b. In percentages a. Buyer 5. Applications and examples b. Store management 6. Relationships '

50 a. Amounts taken d. R.O.G. (Receipt of Goods) b. Timing e. Advance or post c. Net profit 3. Common terms of sale for fashion merchandise d. Markup a. Apparel D. Other Price Changes b. Accessories 1. Types 4. Application and examples a. Additional markups 5. Calculation of invoice payments b. Cancellation of markdowns a. Determination of discount period c. Cancellation of markups b. Determination of net period 2. Causes c. Anticipation 3. Calculations 6. Importance of negotiating terms 4. Relationships a. Relationship to profit a. Markup b. Relationship to cost of goods b. Net profit c. Evaluation of alternate buying opportunities 5. Applications and examples B. Shipping Terms 1. Common types Learning Experiences a. F.O.B. Store 1. Assign students to shop thesame ready-to-wear b. F.O.B. Factory classifications in two competitive stores in orderto c. F.O.B. point of destination compare the number of price lines and the approxi- 2. Variations mate percentage of stock found at each price point. a. Buyer's responsibilities Instruct students to determine the pricerange in b. Seller's responsibilities each store, the individual price lines, andthe 3. Relationships amount of merchandise at each price tine. Utilize a. Cost of goods students' findings for a class discussion of the fac- b. Net profit tors that influence a store's pricing of different c. Buyer's responsibilities types of ready-to-wear items. 4. Application and examples 2. Have students suggest price lines for men's ties in a C. Loading small, exclusive men's shop; for children's sweaters 1. Definition and explanation in a discount operation; for Junior dresses ina de- 2. Advantages partment store, and have them justify their decisions. a. Uniformity of all inventory and purchase fig- u res 3. Assign students to collect a given number of retail b. Inflation of invoice costs results in higher advertisements, over a period of one month, that gross margin feature markdowns from original retail prices. Have 3. Calculation students analyze and interpret the valuations that are quoted in the advertisements. Learning Experiences 4. Review homework problems, have studentsprac- 1. Have students collect invoice and order forms from tice new problems, and assign new homework prob- various businesses, and note and explain the terms lems. stated on each form. 2. Have students bring into class examples of charge VI. INVOICE MATHEMATICS account bills sent by retail stores, and identify the Teaching Content terms of sale. 3. Have students calculate terms of sale problems that A. Terms of Sale illustrate actual business situations. 1. Discounts 4. Review homework problems and assign new prob- a. Quantity lems for homework. b. Trade c. Cash VII. DOLLAR PLANNING AND CONTROL 2. Dating a. Regular or ordinary Teaching Content b. E.O.M. (End of Month) A. Coordination of Sales and Stocks c. Extra 63 1. Objectives

51 a. To procure a net profit b. Cost value b. To research past results in order to repeat C. Periodic OpentoBuy Control and improve past successes 1. Calculation of opento-buy c. To avoid past failures a. Beginning of month opentobuy 2. Unification b. During the month open-tobuy a. Six month seasonal dollar plan c. Balance of period open-to-buy b. Periodic opentobuy control figures 2. Relationship of planned purchases to open-to- B. Six Month Season Dollar Plan buy 1. Responsibilities 3. Opento-buy control procedures a. Divisional merchandise manager a. Distribution of periodic open-tobuy reports b. Departmental buyer b. Review of open-to-buy reports 2. Procedure c. Adjustments of opento-buy figures a. Planned semi-annually 4. Importance of an opento-buy position b. Based on past data a. Reorder money for fast selling items c. Projects goals b. Availability of money for new items, re- 3. Essential elements of a six month plan sources, etc. a. Planned monthly sales c. Correction or balancing of present stocks b. Planned monthly stocks Learning Experiences c. Planned markup percent (monthly or seasonal) 1. Invite a buyer from a department store, and/or a d. Planned monthly markdowns small retailer, as a guest lecturer to talk on the im- e. Planned monthly purchases portance of budgeting money. 4. Considerations in planning sates 2. Secure examples of open-tobuy forms used in re- a. Previous year's sales for corresponding period tail stores and use an overhead or opaque projector b. Current sales trends to visually demonstrate to the class the decisions in- c. Economic conditions volved, and the relationship and sequence of the d. Local business conditions factors planned. e. Competition 3. Lead a class discussion on the variations in stock f.Fashion factors turnover rate for different apparel and/or accessory g. Influencing conditions within and outside departments, and possible reasons for these vari- the store or department ations. 5. Considerations in planning stocks 4. Review homework problems, have students prac- a. Maintenance of adequate physical stock tice new problems, and assign new homework prob- b. Calculation of monthly stock sales ratios lems. c. Calculation of average stocks VIII. MERCHANDISE OPERATING STATEMENTS d. Calculation of stock turnover rate 6. Turnover Teaching Content a.Definition and explanation A. Uses b. Variations of turnover in fashion merchan- 1. Analysis of departmental merchandising oper- dise ation Benefits of a rapid turnover rate c. 2. Evaluation of departmental merchandising oft d. Limitations of a high turnover rate eration e. Calculations and applications 3. Comparisons 7. Considerations in planning markdowns a. Other stores a. Decrease from previous markdown percent- b. Other departments age b. Modification to present conditions B. Departmental contribution versus operating profit 8. Considerations in planning cumulative markup a. Estimated markdowns, shortages. discounts Learning Experience b. Estimated expenses 1. Bring into class one or more typical retail store c. Desired net profit merchandising operating statements and have class 9. Calculation of planned purchases discuss each factor listed for their interrelationship a.Retail value lild their relation to profit.

52 Suggested Evaluation Diamond, J. and G. Pintel. Mathematics of Business Tepper, B. and N. Godnick. Mathematics for Retail Buying Evaluation may be based on the student's ability to: Wingate, J., E. Schaller, and R. Bell. Problems in Retail 1. Define the terms and explain the relationship of Buying Wingate, J., E. Schaller, and L. Miller. Retail Merchandise the basic profit factors. Management 2. Explain the method, procedure, and mechanics of Wingate J. and D. Weiner. Retail Merchandising determining the retail value of stocks in large stores. 3. Define the terms common in merchandising mathematics such as markup, markdowns, profit, terms of sale, planned purchases, and open-to-buy. 4. Solve a given problem for each of the following: profit, shortage, markup, markdown, turnover, INSTRUCTIONAL SUPPLIES planned purchases, and open-to-buy. Samples of retail merchandising forms (as specified in learning experiences) Teaching Resources Annual Financial Statements published by large organizations TEXTS AND REFERENCES Current magazine and newspaper articles pertaining to terms of merchandising mathematics Corbman, B., and M. Krieger. Mathematics of Retail Mer- Current audiovisual aids sponsored by trade associations chandising such as the National Retail Merchants Association DISPLAY DESIGN

Prerequisites: Introductionto Fashion Marketing display agencies. A second reason is the greater use of display in the retail selling environment than in the industrial selling environment. A third reason is the Suggested Hours: 45 provision of retail display aids by manutacturers and wholesalers. Still another is the greater number of Behavioral Objectives F try-job opportunities in the retailing field as compared to the industrial field. This area of instruction should enable students to: 1. Understand the importance of display design as a visual merchandising medium. Teaching Modules Suggested Hours 2. Differentiate between different types of retail store displays, and ha familiar with retail store display I. Display: A Visual Merchandising organization, policies, and procedures. Medium 4 3. Understand the basic principles and elements of II. Types and Procedures of Retail design that are applicable to display design. Display 6 4. Know the physical elements of display composi- III. Design Elements of Display 12 IV. Physical Elements of Display tions and arrangements. 8 5. Create two-dimensional and three-dimensional de V. Designing Displays 15 sign collages utilizing the principles and elements Total Hours -- 45 of display design. I. DISPLAY: A VISUAL MERCHANDISING MEDIUM Instructional Guidelines Teaching Content A. Definition of Display Displays, defined as any nonpersonal presentation of 1. Nonpersonal selling presentations merchandise or ideas, are important to merchandisers because they serve as visual aids for selling merchan- a. Merchandise (product displays) dise and/cr building customer good will. Since effet..- b. Ideas (institutional displays) tive displays have to be well designed, merchandising 2. Visual merchandising students should know what constitutes good design B. Types of Selling Environments and how to apply design elements to display. 1. Retail environments Since display is a visual subject, itis recommended 2. Industrial and trade environments that class lectures be kept to a minimum and that a. Showrooms "minds-on and hands-on" learning experiences be b. Trade and industry shows given the greatest emphasis. It is further recommended c. Travelling exhibits that visual examples be used for whatever lactures are C. Importance and Purposes deemed necessary, and that community resources be 1. Stimulates sates solicited for their cooperation for on-site student ob- a. Attracts servations of displays. b. Convinces Teaching content and learning experiences in this area c. Sells of instruction give major emphasis to retail store dis- 2. Creates an environment play procedures and practices for a variety of reasons. 3. Visually aids merchandising One reasonis that retail merchandisers are more 4. Builds customer good will directly involved in display activities than manufac- D. History and Development turers and wholesalers who generally use "outside" 1. Early display presentations

54 a. Retail shops 2. Determination of display policies b. Trade exhibits a. Top management 2. Exposition of decorative arts (Paris, 1926) b. Management goals lnd objectives a. Effect on display design b. Effect on retail window C. Display Department Echelon and Organization 1. Display director c. Evolution of the mannequin 3. Current trends 2. Window display manager 3. Interior display manager(s) a. Retail stores and effect on store planning 4. Display staff b. Trade and industrial displays a. Stylists E. Relation to Current Fashion Trends b. Sign writers 1. Display approach c. Muralists 2. Incorporation into display design d. Display decorators 3. Interpretation of fashion trends D. The Display Calendar F. Responsibilities and Organization for Display 1. Considerations in scheduling 1. Trade and industry displays (independent dis- a. Major holidays play agencies) b. Storewide promotions 2. Retail stores (display departments) c. Timeliness Learning Experiences 2. Allocation of display windows f. Potential sales volume 1. Assign students to "shop" for and report on any b. Institutional impact (prestige) two types of displays in the community that are E. The Display Budget examples of (a) an institutional display, and (b)a 1. Costs and expenses product selling display. Have students give a general a. Display personnel staff explanation of the basic difference between their b. Display materials and lighting two types of displays. c. Cost of window rent 2. Assign students to "shop" for and report on any 2. Allocation of costs one display that fulfills the four purposes of dis- a. Prorated play as presented in the teaching content, and b. Merchandising departments explain how and why. Learning Experiences II. TYPES AND PROCEDURES OF RETAIL DISPLAY 1 Assign different students to shop different local Teaching Content stores to observe, classify, and report on the differ- A. Types of Retail Displays ent types of displays that they find being used for 1. Interior Displays apparel and accessory products. Also have students a. Showcase displays identify and describe the one display that they b. Counter displays considered to be most effective in terms of its selling appeal and give their reasons. c. Ledge displays 2.Have class identify all holidays which d. Island displays are of major e. Wall displays importance for apparel and/or accessory selling, and list them on board. Assign different holidays f. Environment displays g. Shadow box displays to different students and have them present a plan for a given number of related windows in terms of 2. Closed window displays a. Series of related windows merchandise categories to be featured for "their" b. Series of independent windows holiday. This experience will give students an in- c. Single windows sight into the allocation of windows to merchandise departments. 3. Open windows ("see .through" displays) 3.Arrange a field trip to a display department of a B. Variations in Display Policies 1;:rge retail store in order for students to observe 1. Types of philosophies the activities and discuss the organization of a dis- a. "Prestige" displays play department. An alternative to this could be a b. "Selling" displays guest speaker from the display department of a c. Combinations retail store to discuss the display activities and d. Pricing signs departmental organization of his/her store.

55 4. Have students debate the pros and cons of institu 2. Criteria for selection tional or "prestige" window displays versus the a. Seasonal appeal and timeliness pros and cons of direct "product selling" displays. b. Selling and/or prestige appeal c. Availability of stock III. DESIGN ELEMENTS OF DISPLAY d. Ability to attract attention e. Ability to achieve objectives Teaching Content B. Props A. Principles and Elements of Design 1. Fashion mannequins 1. Line a. History and evolution 2. Shape b. Types of mannequins 3. Color c. Considerations in mannequin selection 4. Space d. Relation to fashion 5. Texture e. Techniques of mannequin use 6. Scale 2. Other functional display fixtures B. Factors in Design a. Accessories 1. Repetition and rhythm b. Forms 2. Harmony c. Holders 3. Dominance or emphasis 3. Decorative display fixtures 4. Contrast 4. Structural fixtures 5. Gradation C. Backgrounds 6. Balance 1. Decorative 7. Unity 2. Pictorial Learning Experiences 3. Functional 1. Visually demonstrate all design principles and ele- D. Lighting ments discussed in teaching content and then have 1. Types of display lighting students do short exercises that illustrate design a. Spot lights principles, elements, and factors such as balance, b. Flood lights proportion, types of lines, gradations, etc. c. Micro beam/pin spots 2. Show students different colors and have them sug- 2. Color gest the moods and/or holidays and/or seasons with a. Color shields/gels which they identify the colors being shown. b. Flourescent color 3. Have students clip and mount a given number of c. Mood lighting illustrations and identify the design principles of 3. Lighting the display dominance, balance (both formal and informal), a. Mannequin lighting and proportion in each of them. Have students also b. Background lighting identify or evaluate the factors in one of them that c. Glare and sunlight are used in creating the design, such as repetition, 4. Decorative illumination harmony, contrast, gradation, and/or interference. a. Dimmers Allow students to use any types of illustrations that b. Timers they choose. c. Beam shapers 4. Have students shop a retail fashion display of their d. Novelty lighting choice (interior or window) in order to analyze, E. Additional Display Materials evaluate, and report on the design principles and 1. Functional elements that are illustrated in the display. Discuss 2. Decorative in class. 3. Structural IV. PHYSICAL t.LEMENTS OF DISPLAY F. Signs 1. Prices Teaching Content 2. Descriptions A. Merchandise Learning Experiences 1. Responsibility for selection a. Determination by merchandising division 1. Have students e ine a retail fashion display b. Coordination by display department window during evening hours to. (a) experience the

56 INSTRUCTIONAL DIAGRAM FOR 2 DIMENSIONAL COLLAGE DESIGN

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57 pure expression of light and color applications to C. Purpose of Arrangement the display, and (b) analyze and report on the 1. Attract attention lighting techniques used and the effects achieved. 2. Create interest 2.If community resources permit, arrange a field trip 3. Stimulate sales to a mannequin manufacturer's showroom to observe types and/or construction of mannequins. Learning Experiences 3. If mannequins are available in the school, give stu- 1. Have students apply design principles and create dents experiences in handling mannequins, such as a two dimensional collage design for an effective arranging their pose, chanting hair styles, making selling fashion window presentation. (See figure A them up, and in dressing them. for instructional diagram for two-dimensional col 4. Either have students select different local fashion lage design). Give general instructions as follows: window displays to analyze and evaluate or have all a. The primary consideration in the design is to students individually analyze and evaluate the same be the mannequin, as it will dictate or direct window according to the factors listed below: the general mood to be followed. The man a. Timeliness, appealandattention-getting nequin is to be a color photo selected from a factors of merchandise featured fashion magazine(e.g. Seventeen, Vogue, b. Type of functional props utilized (e.g. man- Harper's, etc.) Mannequin is to be vertical, nequins, forms, fixtures) standing, 12" maximum, 10" minimum. It is c. Decorative props utilized, if any suggested that the students' selection of their d. Type of background mannequin be given paramount importance. e. Types of lighting b. Transfer type is to be used to develop the f. Other display materials utilized and how uti- copy to be coordinated into the design. lized (e.g. functional or decorative) c. An acetate sheet is to be used to simulate the g. Relation of merchandise to props and back- glass surface of a window and may be lettered. ground (e.g. do props detract from merchan d. Collage is to be mounted on a 20" high x 15" dise or do they enhance merchandise?) wide illustration board. h. Type of copy on signs e. Background area paper is to be 18" x 12" i.Theme of window and may be glossy flint paper, color aid, j.Selling effectiveness of total window. wrapping or wall paper. Possible additions to this learning experience proj f. Background materials may be photographs, ect would be to have each student (a) rate (e.g. fabrics and/or any textured substance such from 1 to 5) each factor analyzed, according to its as sand, dirt, etc. selling effectiveness, (b) include reasons for their g. Supplies needed (see listing under Teaching rating, and (c) include suggestions for improvement. Resources). Have class discuss, analyze, evaluate, and/or rate V. DESIGNING DISPLAYS designs for the conception of the design, its communication of merchandise features, the coordina- teaching Content tion of the decor and the fashion featured, the use A. Considerations in Designing Fashion Displays of the copy line, and the neatness of it; articulation. 1. Theme 2. Have students create a design for a threedimen 2. Composition and arrangements sional fashion window box display as illustrated a. Design principles in instructional diagram figure B. Give general b. Physical elements instructions as follows: 3. Color a. Modular window dimensions from 20" x 30" 4. Expression of merchandise illustration board 5. Focal points 1) Wall height 11" a. Primary 2) Wall width 6" b. Secondary 3) Floor 6" x 6" 6. Coordination of fashions and decor 4) Masking or window 1 1" x 6" B. Execution and Implementation b. Three %Rif surfaces and floor may be cut 1. Neatness from one illustration board and remain at- 2. Cleanliness tached. The fourth wall surface or opening 3. Articulation must be attached with tape, glue, etc.

58 INSTRUCTIONAL DIAGRAM FOR 3 DIMENSIONAL DESIGN PROBLEM

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tiVatock.104... V %Iv/ t. 59 c. The interior wall surfaces are to be decorated 4. Identify and distinguish between the physical ele- as in the two-dimensional collage (see learn- ments in the arrangement of a display. ing experience #1), keeping in mind the 5. Demonstrate their understanding of display design, thematic design. elements and considerations in their execution of d. Mannequins are to be color photos selected their two- or three-dimensional display collage from fashion magazines and must be in pro- designs of Module V. portion to window size, approximately 8 to 9 inches in height. e. Acetate sheet may be used over window opening and copy type applied to same. Teaching Resources f.Lighting effects may be suggested by various means such as Christmas lights, flashlights, TEXTS AND REFERENCES spot lights, etc. Bev lin. M. Design through Discovery Have class discuss, analyze, evaluate, and/or rate Hayett, W. Display and Exhibit Handbook each others designs in terms of construction tech- Payne, G. Creative Display niques, design conception, coordination of decor Peg ler. M. Show and Sell and fashions, expression of merchandise, use of Rowe, F. Display Fundamentals Samson, H. Advertising and Displaying Merchandise copy line, lighting techniques, and neatness of articulation. 3. If merchandise display fixtures and space are avail- PERIODICALS able or obtainable, have student teams plan and Display World execute one type of an actual fashion display of their choice. Have class analyze, discuss, and evalu- INSTRUCTIONAL SUPPLIES atefor selling effectiveness of the theme, the composition and arrangement, the expression of Illustration boards for design collages (20" x 15" and 20" x 30") merchandise feature t, the coordination of the decor Background area paper to the fashions featured, the descriptive sign, and Decorative background papers (as described in Module the neatness of articulation. To the degree that it is V) possible, arrange for students to work with a store aMiscellaneous background materials (see Module V) display personin executing a fashion display. Scissors Mat knives Rubber cement Suggested Evaluation Acetate sheets Transfer type Evaluation may be based on evidence of the students' Rulers and T-squares ability to: Mannequins Display fixtures and forms 1. Explain the purposes of display as a visual merchan- aResources for display supplies and catalogs: dising medium. Bayside Timers, inc., 4369 162nd St., Flushing, 2. Identify a given number of different types of retail N.Y. 11358 store displays. Bliss Display Co., 37-21 32nd St., Long Island City, New York 1 1102 3. Explain and/or illustrate a given number of basic Sylvestri Art Mfg. Co., 1147 W. Ohio St., Chicago, design principles and elements. Ill. 60600 Career Advancement Instruction

FASHION BUYING AND MERCHANDISING

Prerequisites: Introduction to Fashion Marketing; procedures, activities, considerations, and techniques, Elements and Coordination of Fash- that are the content of this area of instruction, is of ion; Retail Fashion Merchandise paramount importance to merchandising students as Planning and Control; Basic Textiles; well as to students in other occupational fields of the Furs and Leathers fashion industry. An insight into the techniques and concepts of large-scale retailers is also important for the merchandising students' career development as Suggested Hours: 60 future potential owners of small stores or as future employees of large retailers. Behavioral Objectives Successful retail fashion buying is accomplished by the development of a fashion merchandising program This area of instruction should enable students to: appropriate to the consumer market and operating 1. Understand theretail buying function and its characteristics of a particular and individual retail relation to other functional activities inretail organization. However, the same problems of how institutions. much, what kind, when, and from whom to buy are 2. Know the similarities and differences of the buyers' encountered by buyers of all types of organizations responsibilitiesin departmentalized stores, cen- and the same basic buying principles are applicable to tralized chain offices, and resident buying offices. all. 3. Be familiar with the staff departments that service and support the buying function. Because the skills required of a fashion buyer involve 4. Understandthemerchandising techniques and judgment and concepts,itis recommended that informational sources that are used in determining "case problems" in buying and actual merchandise be what and how much to buy. utilized as much as possible to illustrate teaching 5. Know the criteria that are used in the selection of points and strengthen learning experiences. resources. 6. Be familiar with the practices and procedures of Teaching Modules Suggested Hours placing and writing orders for merchandise. 7. Recognize the responsibilities of buyers for selling Introduction to the Buying Function 6 and sales promotion activities. Analysis of Buyers' Responsibilities 10 8. Recognize the career opportunities in different Supporting Staff Services 6 types of fashion buying organizations. Planning What and How Much to Buy 14 Selection of Sources of Supply 7 Instructional Guidelines Buying Procedures and Practices 7 Selling What is Bought 10 The maxim "Goods well bought arehalf sold" Total Hours 60 reveals the importance of the buying process in retail institutions. It is also of major importance to the fashion industry as a whole because itis the I. INTRODUCTION TO THE BUYING FUNCTION thousands of retail buyers who make the end-products of the industry available to the ultimate consumer, Teaching Content towards whom the entire fashion process is directed. A. Overview of the awing Process An understanding of the retailbuying practices, 1. Determination of consumer targets (for whom) 2. Analysis and determination of consumer fashion of the chosen type of buyer, should research that demand type in regard to a career. Have the class direct all 3. Planning and decisions career questions about buying to these "experts". a. How much to buy (quantitative) Act as moderator to clarify and amplify discussion b. What to buy (qualitative) points. c. When to buy (timing) d. Profit considerations II. ANALYSIS OF BUYERS' RESPONSIBILITIES 4. Selection of resources (sources of supply) 5. Selection of merchandise Teaching Content 6. Negotiation of prices, terms of sale, shipping A. Differences in Responsibilities of Buyers dates, and the like 1. Size of organization B. Organization for Buying in Retail Stores 2. Type of organization 1. Organization of themerchandising division 3. Types and price lines of merchandise assort- a. Department and departmentalized specialty ments stores B. Common Knowledge for All Buyers of Fashion b, Chain and/or mail order stores Merchandise c. Resident buying offices 1. Product knowledge 2. Structure of the merchandising division a. Value a.Divisions b. Quality b. Departments (line and staff) c. Performance 3. Relation of merchandising division to other d. Construction major divisions e. Raw materials a. Sales promotion division f.Production b. Finance and control division 2. Fashion dynamics and principles c. Store management division 3. Consumer knowledge d. Personnel division a. Consumer targets 4. Classificationofbuyers based on type of b. Wants and needs organization c. Buying motives a. Departmentalizedstores (department and d. Demographics specialty) e. Psychographics b. Centralized buying operations (chain and 4. Buying principles, techniques, and procedures mail order) 5. Sources of supply c. Resident (market representative) off ices 6. Basic merchandising arithmetic d. Small merchant 7. Management goals and policies C. Buying as a Career C. The Buyer in the Small Retail Store 1. Qualifications 1. "Total" merchant a. Personal 2. Has responsibility for all merchandising func- b. Educational tions and activities c. Work experience D. The Buyer in Department or Departmentalized 2. Advantages Specialty Store 3. Limitations 1. Major responsibilities 4. Current and future opportunities a. Performs the buying function for one or more than one department h. Prices and reprices individual items Learning Experiences c. Maintains planned inventory assortments 1. Have student groups research and prepare a chart d. Handles and checks merchandise from re showing the organization of the merchandising ceipt to sale divisionina large department store,a chain e. Initiates and requests sales promotion ac- organization, and a resident buying office. tivities 2. Invite a buyer as a guest speaker to discuss the f.Budgets and controls stock/sales relation. field of buying as a career. ship 3. Organize a student panel in which each type of g.Supervises and participates in branch store buyer represented. The student, playing the role merchandicing (if any)

62 h. Supervises department c. Places orders upon request i.Has responsibility for profit d. Helps in detect. g fashion trends 2. Career opportunities e. Suggests retail prices a. Advantages f.Suggests promotions b. Disadvantages g. Follows up deliveries c. Future trends h. Registers complaints and handles adjustments Prepares for store buyer's market trips E. The BuyerinCentralizedChain and/orMail i. Exchanges information and ideas Organizations j. 1. Explanation of central buying k. Presents seasonal fashionclinics to store a. Centralized activities buyers on their market trips b. Systems of supervision and control I.Secures special prices through group buying 2. Advantages and limitations of central buying m. Reports on development in wholesale markets 3. Methods of central buying n. Provides office space and clerical help for a. Central merchandising (most common for visiting buyers fashion goods) o. Accompanies buyers to market upon request q. Publishes arrivals of out-of-town buyers c.Listing and/or price agreement (least common for fashion goods) r. Provides services, e.g., hotel accomodations 4. Comparison of methods s. Provides foreign buying services. a. Type of merchandise 4. Major responsibilities of resident buyers a. Assists store buyers in buying function b. Responsibilities of buyers and store managers c. Advantages and limitationsin use of each b. Obtains price and service concessions 5. Considerations in selection of method used c. Reports market information a. Nature of merchandise 5. Career opportunities in resident offices b. Number of units served a. Advantages c. Volume of indiVidual units b. Limitations d. Distance between units c. Future trends e. Costs of handling and expenses G. The Assistant Buyer 6. Major responsibilities of central buyers 1. Duties and responsibilities a. Performs the buying function for one depart. 2. Activities ment or classification of merchandise H. Comparison and Evaluation of Department, Central b. Prices individual items and Resident Buyers c. Participates in central sales promotion ac- 1. Job responsibilities tivities 2. Necessary fashion skills d. Formulates seasonal budget 3. Application of fashion principles 7. Career opportunities 4. Merchandising techniques a. Advantages 5. Career opportunities and qualifications b. Disadvantages 6. Industry needs c. Future trends Learning Experiences F. The Buyer in Resident Buying Offices 1. Explanation of resident offices 1. Arrange to have as a guest speaker a buyer from a a. Function local store who informally describes the role of the b. Location (merchandise centers) buyer in the distribution of fashion goods, so that 2. Types of resident offices the students may have a "live" exposure to the a. Independently -owned salary or fee offices many aspects of the buyer's job. b. Store-owned syndicate or corporate offices 2. Have students observe a particular department in c. Store.owned associated or cooperative offices local stores and list the activities in which the d. Stoeowned private offices buyer was visibly involved. e. Independent merchandise brokers 3. Bringintoclass examples ofresident buyer's f.Commissionaires (foreign buying office) bulletins that are sent to store buyers. Have each 3. Types of services performed by resident offices student select a particular message and create a a.Evaluates market offerings for price, fashion resident bulletin. Have students exchange bulletins and quality and discuss and evaluate the message and presenta b. Evaluates resources and supply conditions t ion.

6 63 4. Have students draw up a job specification witha how and if they perform, or have performed for check list of responsibilities for an assistant buyer them, the functions of the major staff departments in a department store, central buying office, anda found in larger organizations. resident office. 3. Have each student clip a different advertisement 5. Organize a field trip to a local distribution center from a local newspaper, shop the department that of a chain organization and/or show Career in featured the advertised merchandise, and writea Fashion Distribution" and 'A Career in Retail shopping report that contains information that Buying", and have students classify the merchan- might be beneficial to the buyer of that depart- dising activities that they see or hear discussed. ment. 4. Have students write a fashion report thata store's fashion office might send tothe buyer of a Ill. SUPPORTING STAFF SERVICES particular department. Have class evaluatereports. Teaching Content 5. Present to the class the following "case problem" as an example of how a buyer might make use of A. General Function of Staff Departments information by staff departments: 1. Information to buyers "A store's buying office informs thestore 2. Facilitation of merchandising activities buyer that a foreign resource is making available 3. Advisory for general distribution a complete line of ski B. Types of Staff Department sweaters. This brand of sweaters has formerly 1. Comparison office been sold in the United States by boutiques 2. Fashion office and smallspecialty stores on an exclusive 3. Unit control office distribution basis. One of the local boutique 4. Bureau of Standards and/or Testing shops has stocked this line. The buying office is 5. Research office now suggesting and requesting a firm commit- ment by the stores for large quantities to be C. Relationship to Merchandising Division placed immediately, for delivery the following 1. Indirect authority season. Which staff departments should the 2. Direct authority buyer contact for information, what information D. Specific Function and Responsibilities should he/she request,and how might this 1. Comparison office information aid his/her buying decisions?" 2. Fashion office 3. Unit control office 4. Bureau of Standards/or Testing IV. PLANNING HOW MUCH AND WHAT TO BUY 5. Research office Teaching Content E. Comparison of Activities A. Seasonal Dollar Planning 1. Departmentalized stores (department andspec- ialty) 1. Six month dollar plan 2. Chain organizations a. Objectives 3. Resident offices b. Factors planned c. Procedures Learning Experiences 2. Responsibilities a. Divisional merchandise manager 1. Have students assume the role of a comparison b. Buyer shopper for a particular store and select a cat- c. Control division egoryof merchandise that they will shop for 3. Relationships price,breadth and depth of assortment, and a. Timing of purchases manner of display. Have students "comparison b. Profit shop" a minimum of three stores thatcarry the c. Revisions of plan identical or similar merchandise, and presenta 4. Importance of planning report of their comparative observations. Discuss a. Store management student findings in class and have class come to b. Department buyer conclusions on the function and merchandising 5. Opento-buy control procedures help of a comparison office. a. Importance in fashion merchandising 2. Have students interview small retailers to determine b. Implication for buyer

iff 64 B. Merchandise AssortmentPlanning(Qualitative 3) Customer preferencesinsize,color, Planning) classification, price lines, and materials 1. Merchandise plan by units 4)Preferred resources a. Objective 5) Stock-sales relationships b. Factors planned 6)Fashion trends c. Procedures d. Interpretationof current and past sales 2. Considerations in assortment planning data a. Merchandising policies of store e. Developments in electronic data processing b. Consumer targets 4. Application of fashion principles c. Repeated buying patterns of consumers a. Position of store on fashion cycle d. Dates of influencing holidays and special b. Time intervals events c. Nature of fashion changes 3. Maintenance of balanced assortments d. Influences which inspire demand a. Current "hot" items e. Principles pertaining to acceptance, move- b. Basic stock assortments ment, and timing 4. Variations in stock assortments f.Current fashion movements a. Beginning of selling season 5. Evaluation, interpretation, and application of b. Peak of selling season research information c. End of selling season a. Discovery and determination of early fashion trends C. Prediction of Consumer Demands and Fashion b. Experimentation with small quantities of Trends goods 1. Research sources of information within the store Learning Experiences a.Salespeople b.Informal floor contact and observation 1. Havestudentsresearchthestandardindustry c.Past and present sales (unit control) performance of typical department store monthly d.Want slips sales distributions stated by percentage in Mer- e.Trends in related departments chandising and Operating Results, published an- f.Customer surveys nually by National Retail Merchant's Association. Have students then graph each month's percentage 9.Customer panels 2. Research sources of information outside the of annual sales in order for them to visualize a typical monthly sales pattern of large department store stores. Then have students select sevi-ai different a. Resident offices types of apparel departments and compare their b. Advisory fashion consultants peak and low sales periods to that of the entire c. Fashion magazines reasonsforthesedifferences. d. Trade papers store's.Discuss e. Information from resources 2. Have students duplicate the research activity of f.Data from competing and non-competing the above, substituting the stock distributions for distributions, and discuss the causes of stores sales g. Newspapers variations. h. Movies and television 3. Lead a class discussion on the reasons and need to i."Life-styles" budget stocks in relation to proposed sales. 4. To illustrate and apply the concepts and techniques 3. Unit control records a. Methods of unit control of assortment planning, have the students prepare a stock assortment and discuss the reasonsfor 1) Perpetual their decisions in the following "case situation": 2)Physical b. Determination of method "They are the buyer for a teen dress depart. 1) Nature of merchandise ment of a large volume department store. The 2) Amount and kind of information re store is opening a new branch early in August. quired The new sitb chosenis composed of high c. Factual sales data middle to high income groups, and borders on 1)"Best" sellers an average income community. The families are 2)Slow sellers mainlytypical young to early middle-aged e )

65 couples with approximately two school children determining what to buy. Present examplesto class per family". and have class evaluate the use of eachto a buyer. 5. To gain greater insight into seasonal dollar budget- 9. Organize a field trip to a large, local department ing and to the decisions buyers make, presentthe store to have students observe its methods and following "case situation" for class discussion of procedures of unit control. the reasons for using last year's performance when 10. Have students interview small retailersto determine projecting goals for the following season: if and what records they maintainas a guide in de- "You, the sweater buyer, are preparingyour ciding what to buy. six month plan for the fall period. Your store is 11. Have students identify and discuss thespecial planning an overall 5% increase in sales. For problems they, as customers, have encountered in October, the store is planninga big storewide purchasing fashion merchandise and give specific 50th Year anniversary sale, and there will be examples. Have them suggest possible solutionsto additional and continuing advertising for the the problems. entire month. The promotional concentration 12. Have students plan a unit controlsystem for a will be on individual department ads. Econ- school store, or for an imaginary store, and give omists have predicted continuing sluggish retail reasonsforthe method they aresuggesting. sales for the first quarter of theseason under consideration. Your sportswear departmentwas enlarged in the summer, and now features an entire collection of Italian knit separates. You V. SELECTION OF SOURCES OF SUPPLY have secured an additional counteron the Budget Ready-to-Wear floor whereyou plan to Teaching Content stock sweaters to retail from $5 to $15. You A. Methods of Obtaining Merchandise have already bought and intend to promote a 1. Market visits new group of Boutique imported sweaters for 2. Visiting salesmen evening and cocktail wear. Your performance of 3. Resident offices last year for this period was: 4. Regional trade shows Six month total sales volume $750,000 Markup 48.3% B. Market Locations Markdowns 7.5% 1. Domestic Turnover rate 5.5 2. Foreign What,if any, changes will you make when C. Types of Suppliers estimating your figures, and why?" 1. Manufacturers 6. Have students shop one apparel department ina 2. Wholesalers local store and, by observation, estimate andre- 3. Importers port the percentages carried in stock for each of 4. Exporters the following factors: (a) sizes within each size D. Domestic Manufacturers as a Source of Supply range;(b) price lines within each price range; 1. Prevalence in apparel products (c)colors; (d) classifications; (e) materials. For 2. Advantages each of the five factors have student make a a. Breadth of offerings breakdown by percentage (e.g., 30% green, 20% b. Faster delivery on new merchandise blue, 10% white, 5% beige, 20% yellow, totaling c. Exclusivity arrangements 100%). Use student reports on their findingsto d. Cooperative advertising arrangements discuss the planning for consumer preferences and e. Specification buying the factors that may have influenced the buyer in 3. Limitations achieving the assortment carried. 7. Have each student select a particularcategory of E. Domestic Wholesalers asa Source of Supply apparel and research a new fashion trend in the 1. Advantages merchandise category they chose. Have students a. Immediate deliveries report on their category and the research sources b. Purchases in small quantities of information that they used to determine the c. Wide assortments trend. d. Liberal credit terms 8. Collect examples of different types of industry 2. Limitations information used as sources of informationin F. Foreign Markets as a Source of Supply

66; .; 1. Considerations favoring purchase of imported a. Fashion leadership goods b. Adaptation of styles to prices required a.Possibilities of higher markups c. Exclusivity arrangements b. Prestige value d. Suitability of fashions for customer group c. Procurement of merchandise not available in e. Distinctiveness of merchandise domestic markets f. Timing of shipments d. Greater possibility for exclusives g. Dependability of quality and deliveries 2. Methods of obtaining imports H. Classification of Resources a. Domestic wholesale importers 1. Preferred or key resources b. Exporter with offices in U.S.A. 4 2. Item resources c. Resident buying office 3. Classification resources 1) Domestic foreign office 4. Tertiary resources 2) Foreign offices d. Buyer's visit to foreign markets I.Concentration of Resources 1) Manufacturers 1. Advantages and benefits 2) Exporters 2. Disadvantages 3. Importers as a source of supply J. Buyer's Responsibilities for Resources a. Advantages 1. Selection of resources b. Limitations 2. Rating of resources 4. Direct importing 3. Development of key resources a. Advantages b. Limitations Learning Experiences 5. Current practices and future trends 1. Have students wear or bring into class one imported apparel or accessory item. In class, have students G. Selection of Resources state reason for purchasing the item. Lead a class 1. Sources of information discussion on whether the buyer's reasons for buy- a. Past experience ing imported merchandise are the same as that of b. Resident buying office affiliation the consumers. c.Visiting salesmen 2. Have students study the fashion floor of a local d. Competing stores store and approximate the percentage of imported e. Reporting services stock in each department or merchandise category. f.Buyers of other stores Discuss in class the reasons for store buyers buying g. Market visits imported merchandise. h. Trade advertising 3. Have one or more students research the federal i.Trade directories regulations that are imposed on imports. Discuss j.Fashion magazines the effect of these regulations on the consumer and k. Consultant advisory services the American manufacturers. 2. Considerations in selection of resources 4. Have students select a category of apparel mer- a. Suitabilityofmerchandiseforcustomer chandise and list the sources of information that group they would use to obtain information on where it b. Distinctiveness of merchandise is available for purchase. c. Timing of shipments 5. Have students select an item, identify a specific d. Branded products versus private label prod- store, and list the considerations that may influence ucts the selection of a specific resource by the buyer. e. Specification needs Discuss the importance of each factor. f.Fashion leadership g. Exclusivity'arrangements h. Retail price maintenance VI. BUYING PROCEDURES AND PRACTICES i. Productivity and output j.Breadth of assortment Teaching Content k. Dependability of quality and deliveries A. Market Procedures and Techniques I. Selling aids 1. Importance of market coverage m. Prices and terms a. Market openings 3. Major resource considerations for fashion buying h. Continuous market coverage

67 2. Market opening practices 4. Checking of orders a. Resident office cumulations a. Merchandise received b. Thorough coverage of market b. Merchandise outstanding c. Preliminary "shopping" of all lines F. Ethics of Vendor Relationships d. Notation of merchandise seen and resources 1. Significance of relationships visited a. Buyer e. Evaluation of merchandise noted b. Vendor f. Classification of assortments 2. Objectionable practices 1) Regular stock a. Buyer 2) Special purpose stock b. Vendor 3) Special promotions 3. Unethical practices g. Return to specific resources a. Buyer h. Writing of initial seasonal orders b. Vendor B. Procurement of Advantageous Prices 4. Illegal practices 1. Comparison of prices and quotations of offer- a. Buyer ings seen b. Vendor 2. Eligibility for discounts 3. Procurement c. best credit and shipping terms Learning Experiences 4. Eligibilityfor reduced costs of merchandise 1. Secure examples of typical order confirmation 5. Determination of paid vendor services forms used by stores. Give class an order and have C. Specialized Buying Arrange rents students writeit.Discuss effective and correct 1. Types writing of order. a. Memorandum buying 2. List different categories of apparel and accessories b. Consignment buying and lead a class discussion on the differences in c. Special promotion buying frequency of placing orders for each category, and d. Joblot buying the reasons for the differences. 2. Advantages and limitations of each type 3. Have the class research and determine the types of 3. Techniques or arrangements goods for which consignment and/or memorandum buying are common practices. Discuss with class if D. Timing of Orders and how this practice affects the merchandising of 1. Importance this item. 2. Relationships and considerations 4. Have students interview five people from various a. Market openings occupational fields and solicit their reactions to b. Six month merchandise plan the acceptance of Christmas gifts by buyers from c. Current items versus basic stocks vendors. Discuss student findings in class as they d. Market conditions pertain to buying ethics. e. General business conditions 5. From a newspaper advertisement, have students try f.Distance from markets to determine whether the merchandise featured is g. Store policies "special promotion" buying. Have students shop h. "Hand-to-mouth" buying policies the store that features the merchandise, and report E. Writing or Orders on the characteristics of the merchandise featured. 1. Procedures a. Confirmation on store order forms VII. SELLING WHAT IS BOUGHT b. Authorization oforders by merchandise Teaching Content manager c. Information required on orders A. Buyers' Responsibilities for Personal Selling d. Mechanics of writing orders 1. Departmentalized stores e. Disposition of order forms a. Requests for salespeople 2. Importance of order form b. Training a. Legal contract c. Merchandise information to salespeople and/ b. Record of outstanding orders or sales manager c. Maintenance of perpetual opentobuy d. Possible personal selling responsibilities (store a. Cancellations policies) 3. Follow-up of orders written 2. Centralized chain offices

68 a. Merchandisesellinginformationtosales e. Publicity information to salespeople and/or managers sales managers b. Merchandise selling information to training 2. Centralized chain offices managers a. Purchase of publicized merchandise b. Merchandise information to publicity depal- B. Buyers' Responsibilities for Advertising ment 1. Departmentalized stores (department and specialty) E. Buyers' Responsibilities for Fashion Shows a. Determination and selection of merchandise 1. Departmentalized stores to be advertised a. Variations in responsibilities for production b. Requests for advertising space, media, and of shows (e.g. fashion coordinators, publicity dates offices, "outside" specialists) c. Requests for advertising budgets b. Purchase of merchandise for shows d. Arrangements for vendor cooperative ad- c. Merchandise information to show producer vertising d. Information about merchandise featured to e. Samples and merchandise information to salespeople or sales managers advertising department 2. Centralized chain offices f.Proofing and release of advertisements a. Purchase of merchandise for shows g.Advertising information to salespeople and b. Merchandise information to sales managers service managers and/or show producer 2. Centralized chain offices F. Considerations in Sales Promotion Activities a. Purchase of merchandise for advertising 1. Store policies b. Suggestions and/or requests for advertising 2. Fashion developments and trends c. Samples and merchandise information to 3. Budgets advertising departments 4. Seasonal considerations and selling cycles d. Merchandise information to sales managers a. Beginning of season b. Peak of season C. Buyers' Responsibilities for Display c. End of season 1. Departmentalized stores (department and specialty) a. Authorization of merchandise to be displayed Learning Experiences b. Suggestions and/orrequestsfordisplays 1 Have each student identify an item to be ad- (windows and interiors) vertised and be responsible, as the buyers, for the c. Purchase of displayed merchandise advertised item from its original selection to the d. Merchandise information for display signs finalproductionofthe advertisement. Have Inventoryrecordsof merchandise"bor- "student-buyers" report on the reason(s) for their rowed" for display purposes selection,thetechniques and procedures they f.Determination and arrangement of depart- would follow in purchasing the item, and the mental displays activities for which they, as buyers, would be q. Continual changing of departmental displays responsible in the implementation and execution 2. Centralised chain offices of the advertisement. a. Purchase of merchandise for display purpose b. Suggestions and/orrequestsfordisplays 2. Have each student, acting as a store buyer or c. Merchandiseinformationtosales and/or assistant buyer, selectan appropriate topic for a department sales meeting, plan the meeting, and display !managers p-esent their plan. Depending upon time, have D. Buyers' Responsibilities for Publicity eachor some students conduct their planned 1. Departmentalized stores meetings for an evaluation by the class of its a. Purchase of merchandise to he publicized effectiveness. b. Merchandise information to publicity depart- 3. Select specific dates or seasons of the year and ment. assign them to students for their selectiOn of c. Arrangements for editor ial credits in public merchandise promotions for a department of their tons choice, at the given time. Have class discuss the d. Procurement of publicity photographs from appropriateness and suitability of the merchandise vendors and sales promotion activities for the given time. 4. Have student teams plan and execute a depart- Teaching Resources mental display for a department of their choice. This student activity can either be done with TEXTS AND REFERENCES three dimensional collages, mock-ups, and/or actual merchandise and display props obtained or im- Judelle, B. The Fashion Buyers Job provised by the students. Have class discuss and National Retail Merchants Assoc. The Buyers Manual Troxell M. and B. Judelle. Fashion Merchandising evaluate the "merchandise" selected and featured Wingate, J. and .1. Friedlander. The Management of Retail in terms of achieving the purpose of display. Buying

PERIODICALS

Boutique Clothes Suggested Evaluation Daily News Record Men's Wear Evaluation may be based on evidence of the students Stores Magazine ability to: Women's Wear Daily 1. Explain and analyze the buying function. FASHION PERIODICALS 2. Distinguish betweenbuyers'responsibilitiesin Esquire departmentalized stores, centralized chain offices, Glamour and resident buying offices. Gentleman's Quarterly 3. Identify the staff departments that assist buyers, Harper's Bazaar and explain the specific function and value of one Mademoiselle or more of them. Seventeen Vogue 4. Demonstrate their understanding of the merchandising techniques and value of seasonal dollar plans AUDIOVISUAL AIDS and unit control systems. 5. Identify a given number of research sources of A Career in Retail Buying, 6 min. filmstrip with record J. C. Penney Co., Educational and Consumer Relations,' information used by buyers to anticipate consumer 1301 Ave. of Americas, New York, N.Y. 10019 demand. A Career in Fashion Distributiom, 6 min. filmstrip with' 6. Distinguish between wholesalers and manufacturers record as sources of supply for fashion merchandise, and J.C. Penney Co., Educational and Consumer Relations, identify major factors to be considered in the 1301 Ave. of Americas, New York, N Y. 10019 selection of sources of supply. INSTRUCTIONAL SUPPLIES 7. Explain one or more buying practices and con- 4 siderations relating to market coverage, special Resident buying bulletins buying arrangements, timing of orders, or writing Store order and cancellation forms of orders. Current articles or. all phases of merchandising fashion products 8. Distinguish between the buyers' responsibilities Request for Advertising and Sign Requisition forms and the responsibilities of advertising and display Opento-buy and unit control forms departments for merchandise displays and depart- 6 months planning forms mental advertisements in departmentalized stores. Manufacturer's samples of an apparel or accessory tine 9. Identify, define or briefly explain a given list of Merchandise and Operating Results, published an buying terminology. nualiy by the National Retail Merchant's As- sociation, 100 West 31st Street, New York, N.Y! 10. Demonstrate their understanding of career op- 10001 portunities in buying. Mimeographed copies of buying "case problems"

1 II

1 ?

70 FASHION SALES PROMOTION

Prerequisites: BasicTextiles;Introductionto major activity; the techniques, practices, and opera- Fashion Marketing; Elements and tions necessary to produce the particular activity; Coordination of Fashion; Furs and the responsibilities of those concerned in sales promo- Leathers tion decisions and implementations; and how to select fashion goods for promotion. Though the emphasis is on advertising, display, and fashion shows, publicity Suggested Hours: 45 and special events activities are also included.

Behavioral Objectives Since the results of sales promotion activities are visual in nature, it is recommended that all instruction, This area of instruction should enable students to: discussions, and learning experiences utilize this visual 1. Know the different types of fashion sales promo- quality, and that there be a constant stress on visual tion activities, and recognize their importance as a communication with "live" illustrations to strengthen sales producing forcein fashion merchandising. learning. 2. Understand the advertising techniques, practices, and procedures employed in large retail stores, and Teaching Modules Suggested Hours be able to evaluate the selling appeals of fashion advertisements. Introduction to Sales Promotion Activities 4 3. Know the different types of fashion display and Advertising 15 how to use them effectively for the promotion of Display (Visual Merchandising) 8 fashion products. Fashion Shows 10 4. Recognize the different objectives of different Special Events Promotion and Publicity 8 types of fashion shows, and know the necessary procedures and elements for their success as a pro- Total Hours 45 motional activity. 5. Understand the nature of special events promo- I. INTRODUCTION TO SALES PROMOTION tional activities and their application to the promo- ACTIVITIES tion of fashion. Teaching Content 6. Be familiar with the nature and use of fashion publicity. A. Explanation of Sales Promotion B. General Objectives for All Marketing Levels 1. Sell a product, service and/or idea Instructional Guidelines 2. Build customer loyalty and goodwill 3. Generate interest Sales promotion, as covered in this area of instruc- 4. Disseminate information tion, embraces the impersonal activities and techniques that are designed to sell fashion merchandise prof it- C.I ypes of Sales Promotion Activities ab!y. The importance of these activities for merchan- 1. Advertising dising cannot Lie overstated. Efforts to promote the 2. Display sale of goods are significant not only to the retailer, 3. Publicity but also to the consumer. 4. Fashion shows 5. Special events Efficientandsuccessfulpromotionaleffortsare achieved through the coordination of the various ac- D. Major Activities in Merchandising Fashion Products tivities employed within the organization. Students 1. Advertising and media will study the objectives and characteristics of each a. Newspaper b. Direct mail C. Types of Ads and Purpose of Each at Different c. Television and radio Marketing Levels d. Trade and consumer periodicals 1. Inctitutional advertisements (by retailers and e. Direct mail producers) 2. Display (visual merchandising) a. Services a. Interior b. Policies b. Window (retail level) c.Facilities 3. Fashion shows d. Community activities 4. Publicity e. Personnel (e.g., designer names) E. Organization and Responsibilities for Sales Pro- 2. Product motion a. Types of merchandise ads by retailers 1.Retailers b. Types of merchandise ads by producers a. Buyers and merchandise managers (merchandising division) D. Responsibilities 1. Top management b. Specialized sales promotion departments (sa' s promotion division) a. Determination of management objectives c. Operating committees b. Determination of the firm's advertising 2. Wholesalers and producers policies a. Sales promotion or sales departments 2. Merchandising division b. Independent sales promotion agencies a. Determination and selection of merchandise b. Accountability for profit F. Importance of Sales Promotion 3. Advertising department or agencies 1. Retailers a. Coordination of advertising 2. Produce! s b. Execution of advertisements 3. Consumers E. Advertising Media Learning Experiences 1. Types 1. Have students collect and mount different fashion a. Newspapers (trade and consumer) advertisements, and identify the general objectives b. Magazines (trade and consumer) of sales promotion that each reflects. c. Direct mail 2. Assign students to research and list all the adver- d. Radio tising media available in the community, compare e. Television the frequency of their promotional use for dif- f.Billboards ferent types and categories of apparel and acces- 2. Distinguishing characteristics and usage sories, and cite specific examples. For each type or 3. Comparisons of each type category of merchandise, have the students analyze a. Advantages for selling fashion merchandise the consumer segment to which the media is ap- b. Limitations for selling fashion merchandise pealing as, for example, a children's clothing ad in 4. Criteria for selection a newspaper appealing to mothers. a. Type of customer 3. Draw or show an organizational chart of a typical b. Type of business large department store, and lead a class discussion c. Characteristics of product on the relationship and interaction between the d. Nature of product sales promotion division and the other major divi- e. Appropriateness of medium sions of the store. f.Location of business 4. Have students do research on sales promotion g. Location of audience activities in foreign countries, and report findings 5. Evaluation and significance to the class for futher discussion. a. Retailers b. Manufacturers c. Raw material producers II. ADVERTISING F. Retail Procedure for Advertising Plans and Budgets Teaching Content 1. Six month advance planning a. Budgets A. Definition of Advertising h. Schedules B. Purpose c. Media

72 2. Monthly advertising plans 8. Responsibilities a. Plans and requests for product ads by depart. a. Buyer mental buyers (merchandise, dates, medium, b. Advertising department size, costs) H. Elements of Advertisements b. Coordination of divisional plans and requests 1. Copy by merchandise managers 2. Art Work c. Coordination of total store plans by sales 3. White space promotion director a. Layout 3. Weekly revisions b. Production G. Selection of Fashion Merchandise for Retail Adver I.Procedure in Retail Advertising Production tising 1. Buyer's advertising request form 1. Criteria and considerations a.Purpose and importance a. Sales potential b. Content and information b. News value 2. Comparison Office shopping c. Photogenic qualities a. Purpose d. Store's position on fashion cycle b. Importance e. Inventory for advertisement 3. Production f.Profitability a. Copy writing 2. Buyer's objectives and considerations b. Layout a. Projection of department's fashion personality c. Printing procedure b. Projection of store's fashion personality 4. Final release item c. Sale of a particular a. Tear sheet d. Dissemination of fashion information b. Buyer's final approval e. Clearance of stocks 5. Buyer's evaluation of advertising results 3. Advertising appeals a. Prestige and status J. Effective Advertising b. Newness of color,materials, silhouette 1. Criteria c.Individuality a. Evidence of main idea d. Fit b. Continuous e. Comfort c. Identifiable f. Sex appeal d. Visualization of copy g. Value e. Simplicity for clarity h. Quality 2. Buyer's contribution i.Vanity a. Selection of timely, salable merchandise j.Distinctiveness b. Communication of complete and accurate merchandise information to advertising de- 4. Approaches a. Emotional partment c. Information to sales personnel b. Rational c. Emotional and rational d. Display of advertised merchandise e. Measurement of ad results d. Application in various types of fashion goods 3. Relationships 5. Reflection of merchandising policies a. Characteristics of individual ads a. Fashion "firsts" b. Advertising program b. Timing c. Pricing of goods K. Cooperative Advertising 6. Variations in appeals and objectives 1. Definition a. Stage of selling season 2. Procedures and practices b. Position of merchandise on fashion cycle 3. Benefits and limitations c. Buyer's objective in merchandise selection a. Retailer 7. Relationships and evaluation b. Manufacturer 4. Federal laws pertaining to cooperative advertis- a. Buyer's objective ing b. Appeal c. Approach L. Dealer Advertising Aids d. Timing 1. Direct mail tie-ins

73 a. Bill enclosures DISPLAY (VISUAL MERCHANDISING b. Catalogues 2. Newspaper ad mats Teaching Content 3. Radio and television tie-ins A. Use of Display 1. Producers and wholesalers

Learning Experiences a. Showroom displays . b. Dealer display aids 1. Have students collect, mount, and label examples 2. Retailers of various media used in advertising, andcompare a. twerior displays the media collected in terms of effectivenessas a b. Window displays means of selling fashion merchandise. c. Remote displays 2. Assign students to bring into class examples of fashion advertisements by a retailer,an apparel oe B. Characteristics of Effective Display accessory producer, and a producer of fabrics or 1. Distinctiveness leathers. Discuss and analyze with the class the 2. Appropriateness "total" effectiveness of each in relationto copy, a. To firm art work, and layout. b. To merchandise 3. Have students collect examples of institutional 3. Descriptive signs ads and product ads, and identify the type of appeal 4. Dominant theme in each. Lead a class discussion to evaluate the 5. Neat, clean appearance approachin each ad interms ofitsappeal. 6. Merchandise in action or use 4. Have students collect examples of different types 7. Frequent changes of retail fashion advertising, and identify each type. 8. Timeliness 5. Organize a field trip to the advertising department C. Types of Retail Store Displays of a large local store to observe the actual produc- 1. Interior tion of advertisements. Have an advertising repre- a. Showcase sentative discuss the relationship of the buyers to b. Counter the advertising department. c. Wall 6. Select what in your opinion is a "poor" ad and a d. Ledge very effective ad for presentation to the class. Have e.Island class discuss and evaluate each one in relation to the f.Aisle characteristics of effective advertising. 2. Window 7. Have one or more student committees select, for a. Single category displays class presentation, examples of fashion merchandise b. Related displays to be advertised and give their ideas on where c. Scries displays (media), and when (dates) it should be advertised. d. "Open" or "see through" windows Have class evaluate the merchandise selected, the media chosen, and the timing. D. Elements of Display 8. Select three significant dates in fashion retailing 1. Merchandise and have students suggest merchandise to be used 2. Props for advertisements on the specified dates. Have a. Functional class discuss the suggested merchandise in rela- b. Decorative tion to its appropriateness for the dates given. c. Structural 9. Obtain from a large localstore copies of typical 3. Backgrounds Advertising Request forms for student distribution 4. Display materials and completion by the students. Show students a 5. Design and color elements merchandise item and have them fill out the form. a. Balance Read the completed forms to the class for their b. Proportion and scale evaluation of the information submitted. c. Harmony 10. Have each student write an ad for the item used in 6. Lighting 49. and identify the media in which it is to appear E. Examples of Variations in Store Policies and the sponsor of the ad. Have class evaluate each 1. Methods of assigning windows other's ads in terms of appeals, approaches, and 2. Coordination of interior and window displays the audience to which it is directed. 3. Determination of costs ti

74 4. Coordination with other sales promotion activ- discuss the pros and cons of using displays as a ities separate sales promotion medium and/or as a 5. Prices and signs supplement of newspaper advertising. 6. Responsibility for departmental displays 3. Have students list and discuss various kinds of F. Responsibilities for Display merchandise that are sold more effectively through 1. Display department display than through advertising (e.g. jewelry). 4. Have students discusstheir own reaction, as a. Procurement and maintenance of props customers, to advertised versus displayed merchan- b. Design of displays dise, and come to conclusions as to the selling c. Execution and coordination of displays effectiveness of each. 2. Merchandise departments 5. Have students select a current and important fashion a. Requisition of departmental signs "look" or item and: b. Copy writing of required signs a. Shop one or more local stores and report on c. Requisition for window space the types of display being used to present it. d. Selection of merchandise e. Requisition for departmental fixtures and b. Create a type of display, of their choice, to props feature this fashion, by means of a rough sketch, a mock-up, or a three-dimensional f.Inventory responsibility for merchandise dis- collage. played 6. Have teams of students create a display of any type G. Evaluation of Display as a Fashion Sales Promotion using actual merchandise and props. Students may Activity obtain merchandise from their own wardrobes or 1. Display objectives and uses form an apparel construction class in school; props a. Introduction of new and important products can either be improvised or obtained from those b. Dramatization of merchandise available in the school. Emphasize to the students c. Demonstration of merchandise in use that the display Ilements of this learning experience d. Presentation of related merchandise are more important than the merchandise being e. Presentation of special themes or events displayed. Have class discuss and evaluate each f.Presentation of special merchandise offers others displays in terms of their distinctiveness, g. Communication of information selling message, theme, balance, and ability to h. Arousal of attent;on and interest arouse interest. i.Creation of an environment 7. Present a current fashion item or "look" to the 2. Relation of display to advertising class and have each student write a brief sign a. Display versus advertising message about it for a 5" x 7" store sign. Have class b. Display coordinated with advertising evaluate each other's sign copy. c.Limitations of display H. Signs IV. FASHION SHOWS 1. Importance 2. Variations in store policy Teaching Content a. Usage A. Importance of Shows b. Sizes 1. Introduces new lines and designs c. Content 2. Shows merchandise in use 3. Uses 3. Influences customers to buy a. Displays 4. Stimulates publicity b. Merchandise stock fixtures 5. Creates prestige and builds gcAKI will Learning Experiences B. Types of Shows 1. Have students "shop" and compare interior and 1. Formal window displays of different types of local stores, 2. Informal and prepare a critical analysis of their effectiveness C. Responsibility for Presentation' in terms of their distinctiveness, appropriateness, 1. Retail stores theme, and their elements. a. Fashion coordinator or director in large stores 2. Have students select an advertisement by a local b. Independent fashion show specialists retailstoreand shop the store to seeif the 2. Manufacturers advertised merchandise is being displayed. In class, a. Fashion coordinator

75 b. Independent specialists c. Discusses needed merchandise with buyer 3. Resident offices and/or department head a. Fashion coordinators d. Arranges time and place for fitting models b. Independent specialists e. Works closely with the accessories represent- 4. Magazines ative a. Merchandising department f. Keeps descriptive notes for commentary b. Independent specialists g. Makes merchandise and model sequence D. Purpose and Objectives charts 1. Sale of merchandise to consumers h. Arranges rehearsal a. Sponsored by retailers I.Arranges for dressers b. Sponsored by manufacturers j.Arranges for music 2. Sale of merchandise to retailers 3. Audience a. Sponsored by manufacturers and designers a. Potential customers b. Sponsored by fiber and fabric producers for b. Proper size apparel producers and retail buyers. 4. Plan 3. Presentation of fashion trends a. Date a. Sponsored by professional fashion groups for b. Place industry c. Length of show b. Sponsored by resident offices for clients d. Theme c. Sponsored by magazines for trade or e. Number of models consumers f. Audience d. Sponsored by trade associations for trade g. Merchandise to be shown 4. Entertainments 5. Appropriate merchandise for theme a. Sponsored by organizations for consumers 6. Models b. Sponsored by stores for organization mem a. Professional bers b. Former models 5. Release of news to press c. Own employees a. Sponsored by retailers 7. Budget b. Sponsored by manufacturers 8. Dressing space c. Sponsored by trade associations 9. Commentary 6. Training of store personnel 10. Rehearsals a. Sponsored by training department 11. Promotion b. Sponsored by fashion office a. Posters 7. Presentation of awards 1,. Invitations or tickets a. Sponsored by trade associations c Publicity b. Sponsored by fashion professionals H. Evaluation of Fashion Shows as a Sales Promotion E. Considerations in Methods and Techniques Activity 1. Specific purpose and objective 1. Limitations 2. Audience 2. Advantages and benefits 3. Sponsor Learning Experiences F. Guide Lines for Effective Shows 1. Thoroughness of planning 1. Have students discuss formal and informal shows a. Procedures that they, themselves, may have experienced, and b. Division of responsibility give their personal opinions of them as a selling c. Budget device for small and/or large retailers. 2. Coordination 2. Invite a fashion coordinator as a guest speaker to 3. Relationship of audience to objectives describe to the class (a) his/her responsibilities in producing a show, and (b) the selling effectiveness .G. Elements of Formal Fashion Shows of fashion shows. 1. Dominant theme 3. Have students attend, if rossible, a fashion show in 2. Coordinator the community to analyze and identify its sponsor, a. Appoints staff its audience, and the elements of the show. Have t,. Develops theme students discuss its selling effectiveness from the ; A

76 viewpoint of the audience, and from their reaction 4. Contests as potential consumers. 5. Classes (e.g., sewing) 4. Have student teams plan and present either an 6. Import fairs actual fashion show or create a complete written D. Responsibilities for Special Events and visual plan for a fashion show. Have students 1. Special events departments identifya hypotheticaltype of sponsor, the 2. Fashion coordinators audience for the show, and the purpose and 3. Buyers (e.g., designer visits) specific objectives of the show. After the student teams present an actual show or a written and E. Publicity visual plan for the show that includes pictures 1. Explanation of publicity and sequence of merchandise, written commentary a. Difference between advertising and publicity and examples of invitations, have class discuss and b. Difference between publicity and public evaluate its component parts, and its effectiveness relations as a selling activity for its hypothetical sponsor. 2. Types of publicity a. Planned news b. Unplanned news 3. Publicity media V. SPECIAL EVENTS PROMOTION AND PUBLICITY a. Newspapers Teaching Content b. Trade periodicals c. Consumer publications A. Types of Special Events d. Television and radio 1. Merchandise events 4. Press releases a. Product display and exhibits a. Style b. Demonstrations and showings b. Content c. Schools and classes c. Timing 2. Institutional events d. Objectivity of language a. Parades e. Photographs b. Celebrity visits 5. Responsibility for publicity c.Lectures a. Buyers d. Community service activities b. Fashion coordinators e. Consultants c. Publicity departments 1) Bridal departments d. Independent publicity agencies 2) College shops 6. Applications in fashion merchandising 3) Decorating services a. Editorial credits in fashion publications 3. Free sampling b. Fashion columns of newspapers 4. Special sales inducements c. Examples of news for fashion publicity a. Premiums b. Import fairs c. Contests Learning Experiences d. Give-a-ways 1. Organize teams of students to plan the details of a 5. Customer advisory boards hypothetical Special Event fashion promotion for a a. Consumer panels producer or retailer. Have teams present their plan b. Career boards and/or their "event" to the class by means of a c. College boards conference, demonstration or clinic, and have class evaluate its selling effectiveness. B. Objectives of Special Events 2. Have students list local special event promotions 1. Influence the sale of merchano;se that have occured within a given time. If possible 2. Attract new customers have students analyze different events in terms of 3. Render public or community service th sir type, objective, and selling effectiveness. 4. Create attention and arouse interest 3. Bringintoclass examples of current fashion C. Applications to Fashion Merchandising publicity appearing in magazines and/or local news- 1. Customer advisory boards papers. Discuss with the students the differences 2. Celebrity designer visits between publicity messages and advertising mes- 3. Consultant services sages appr.ariny in the same media.

77 Suggested Evaluation Collins, K. Successful Store Advertising Corinth, K. Fashion Showmanship Evaluation may be based on evidence of the student's Fitzgibbon, B. Macy's, Gimbel's and Me ability to: Kleppner, 0. Advertising Procedures 1. Identify Rosenbloom, M. How to Design Effective Store Advertising thevariousfashionsales promotion Winters, A. and S. Goodman. Fashion Sales Promotion activities, explain the common general obj "ctives of Handbook all, and distinguish between advertising, display, Nblicity, feature events, and fashion shows. 2. Explain the sequence of procedures and practices PERIODICALS of large retail stores in planning and producingan ad. 3. Differentiate between the responsibilities of retail Advertising Age Clothes Magazine buyers and advertising departments for advertising. Daily News Record 4. Identify the elements and appeals ofan ; 44 Display World advertisement. 5. Distinguish between a product ad andan institutional ad, evaluate the effectiveness of oneor AUDIOVISUAL AIDS both, and name a given number of criteria for selecting the medium (or media) in which the ad(s) Advertising at Work, 23 min., 16mm film, color and sound might be placed. American Cyanamid Co., General Services Division, 30 Rockefeller Plaza, New York, N.Y. 10017 6. Distinguish between co-operative advertising and Display Round Up, 75 color slides with script dealer advertising aids. Fairchild Visuals, 7 E. 12th St., New York, N.Y. 10003 7. Identify a given number of different types of retail What Does Advertising Do, 13 min., color filmstrip, sound store displays, and their common display elements. Business Education Films, 5113 16th Ave., Brooklyn. 8. Identify the ingredients or elements ofa formal New York 11219 Public Relations, 17 min., 16mm film, black and white, fashion show and explain, by example, the inter- sound action of the objective, the sponsor, the audience, Business Education Films, 5113 16th Ave., Brooklyn, and the type of show. New York 11219 9. Suggest a particular special feature event that would be appropriate to fashion merchandising. INSTRUCTIONAL SUPPLIES

Teaching Resources Current newspapers, fashion magazines and trade peri odicals (for advertisement and publicity features) TEXTS AND REFERENCES Display fixtures Merchandise samples Brown. R. and C. Edwards. Retail Advertising and Sales Retail sign requisition forms Promotion Retail advertising request forms APPLIED MERCHANDISING

Prerequisites: FashionBuying and Merchandising; the different marketing and merchandising activities FashionSales Promotion; Retail exemplified in the running of a merchandising enter- FashionMerchandise Planning and prise. Control;Fashion Salesmanship Ideally the merchandise to be bought and sold by fashion merchandising students should consist of ap Suggested Hours: 160 parel and/or accessories for men and women. If, however, resources for fashion products are not availableinthe school community or State, the Behavioral Objectives merchandise alternatives suggested in Module I should be thoroughly considered before eliminating this mer This area of instruction should enable students to: chandising laboratory student experience from the 1. Apply the retail merchandising knowledge acquired program. in prerequisite studies to an actual merchandising situation by "running a class store." The ideal time interval for the participation of any one 2. Deepen their understai. _ling of merchandising and class should be not less than half of the school year. of merchandisingsupporting activities and respon Each class should be given the opportunity to have a sibilities. complete experience from the initial planning of the 3. Gain experience as a functioning member of a store to the culmination and final evaluation. Records retail planning and implementing team. kept by previous classes can and should be used as a 4. Develop their competencies by "real life" experi guide. ences related directly and/or indirectly to retail Itis further recommended that the school advisory merchandising. committee be apprised of the non-competitive objec 5. Recognize the implications, effects, and conse tives of this merchandising operation and that their quences of merchandising activities in the market- advice and cooperation be enlisted for possible loans ing process. and/or donations of supplies and equipment, and for the names of possible suppliers. Instructional Guidelines Teaching Modules Suggested Hours This area of instructionis designed to develop the students' occupational competencies by giving them I. Initial Planning and Decisions 10 experiences and practice in "running a reallife store", II. Analysis of Organization and and providing them with opportunities to apply the Responsibilities 25 knowledge acquired in previous studies. The entire Ill. Preparation and Plans for class, supervised and coordinated by the instructor, Implementation 25 will participate in making the necessary decisions re IV. Implementation 80 Wing to merchandise assortments, store operations, V. Culmination and Evaluation of organizational division of responsibilities, and imple Operations 20 mentation of decisions. Every student will also be Total Hours ---- 160 involvedinthevarious aspects of merchandising management, by means of complementary class dis I. INITIAL PLANNING AND DECISIONS cussions and evaluations of all activities, if not by Teaching Content direct responsibility for their implementation. Itis suggested that the responsibilities of student teams be A. Merchandise Considerations rotated to achieve as much experience as is feasible in 1. Possible alternatives

I Yg a. Home craft products E. Other Considerations b. Merchandise from regional producers and 1. Policies jobbers a. Customer credit c. Flea market type of merchandise b. Customer returns d. Resale merchandise 2. Store name e. Combination of above 2. Evaluation of alternatives Learning Experiences a. Marketability 1. After explaining the objectives and rationale of b. Sources of supply this area of instruction, and advising students of 3. Depth and breadth of initial assortments the capital available (if any), present to the class a. Anticipated sales the initial decisions to 1)41 made, and organize the b. Availability of capital class for group discussions. Direct groups to con- c. Possibility of credit sider and evaluate feasible alternatives for mer- d. Replenishment time chandise, store location and hours store policies, B. Operational Considerations store organization, assignment of student responsi- 1. Store location bilities, etc. After each group reports its conclu- a. Possible alternatives (classroom or school sions, evaluate in conjunction with the class at facility) large, and arrive at initial decisions. b. Evaluation of alternatives 2. Assign each student to research and prepare, for 2. Store hours the next class meeting, a detailed list of all the a. Staffing by class activities that will be required to run the class store b. Class hours and to classify them as buying, personal selling, c. Free class hours sales promotion, store operations, and finance. d. Extra curricular hours 3. Layout 4. Fixtures II. ANALYSIS OF ORGANIZATION AND RESPONSI- a. Possible alternatives BILITIES 1) Improvised 2) Donations Teaching Content 3) Purchases A. Buying Team and Responsibilities b. Evaluation of alternatives 1. Procurement of merchandise C. Financial Considerations a. Initial assortments 1. Initial investment capital available b. Replenishment of assortments 2. Evaluation of credit possibilities 2. Determination of prices 3. Profit or non-profit objectives a. Initial retail prices D. Organizational Considerations b. Markdowns 1. Division of responsibilities by function 3. Communication of merchandise information a. Buying (procurement of merchandise) a. Personal selling team b. Personal selling b. Sales or:motion team c. Store operations 4. Requests for advertising, display, and publicity d. Sales promotion 5. Personal selling e. Finance 6. Maintenance of merchandise inventory control 2. Class organization by units a. Possible alternatives a.Initial coded classification of merchandise 1) "Permanent" assignments b. Identification of all items 2) Rotating assignments 1) Style numbers b. Evaluation of alternatives 2) Classification code 3. Procedures for class organization 3) Cost and retail prices a. Possible alternatives 4) Sires 1) Choice by students c. Continual recording of sales and stocks by 2) "Drawing of lots" units 3) Assignments by instructor 1) By style number and classification b. Evaluation of alternatives 2) Daily or weekly sales

80 3) Weekly totals 1. Sales to customers 4) Cumulative totals of classifications a. Recording of sales B. Sales Promotion Team and Responsibilities b. Wrapping of merchandise 1. Advertising and publicity 2. Service to customers a. Determination of media (e.g.,schoolnews- a. Exchanges papers, posters etc.) b. Complaints and adjustments b. Preparationofadvertising and publicity 3. Care of stock materials 4. Merchandise information and suggestions to 1) Opening announcements buyers 2) Continuing publicity 5. Inventory counts when requested c. Maintenance of sales promotion diary and F. Class Recorder(s) samples 1. Written daily store diary for future classes 2. Display 2. Visual records a. Improvisation of display and stock fixtures a. Layout and fixtures b. Frequency of display changes b. Examples of sales promotion c. Maintenance of displays c. Illustrations of merchandise d. Preparation of informational signs 3. Recording of class procedures 3. Special events 4. Minutes of class meetings a. Fashion shows Learning Experiences b. Demonstrations 1. Organize student groups and have each group col- C. Store Operations Team and Responsibilities late the list of classified activities that each student 1. Determination, procurement and maintenance of the group was assigned to research and prepare. of supplies After one group has presented their finalized list, a. Wrapping and packing have other groups add possible omissions or b. Pricing tickets changes in classification of activities and respon- c. Sales checks or cash registers sibilities. Call other possible omissions to the atten- 2. Handling of merchandise tion of the class, and finalize responsibilities and a. Receipt of merchandise and receipt records activities for each classification. b. Ticketing of merchandise 2. Organize class into teams according to classified c. Protection of merchandise divisions ofresponsibilities and by procedures 3. Supervision of store operations previously decided in Module I. a. Opening and closing of store b. Coverage by scheduled salespeople III. PREPARATION AND PLANS FOR IMPLEMENTA- c. Replacement of absentee salespeople TION 4. Physical maintenance Teaching Content D. Finance Team A. Establishment of Organization and Responsibilities 1. Handling of money (bank account and/or cash) 1. Division of responsibilities a. Collection of money from salespeople a. What b. Capital available from school b. Who c. Payment of bills to suppliers 2. Detailed plans for implementation 2. Establishment and maintenance of bookkeeping a. What records b. How a. Record of all purchases (equipment, merchan c. When dise, and supplies) b. Record of all operating expenses B. Establishment of a Time and Action Calendar c. Record of all sales 1. Operation of the store 3. Preparation of periodic financial statements a.Initial opening a. Income from sales b. Culmination of store b. Costs of merchandise 2. Class meetings c. Operating expenses a. Rotation of assignments (if any) b. Periodic reviews d. Profit status 1) Progress reports E. Personal Selling Team 2) Eialuations

81 Learning Experiences constructive suggestions for improvement and solu- 1. Under your supervision, have each team discuss, tion of possible problems. clarify, and confirm their responsibilities. Either 3. Have each student submit a brief weekly produc- in class, or for the next class meeting, have each tivity report for instructor information and final team prepare a report for the class on the responsi- evaluation. bilites they are assuming. 4. Invite one or more practising retailers in thecom 2. Have each team prepare a detailed plan for imple- munity to evaluate the class store, and discuss their mentation of their responsibilities for the initial observations and suggestions for improvement. opening of the store, and include a time and action calendar. V. CULMINATION AND EVALUATION OF OPERA- 3. In conjunction with the class, prepare a collated TIONS and coordinated time and action calendar for the Teaching Content opening of the store for reproduction and distribu tion to each student. A. Procedures for Termination of the Store 4. Review and evaluate implementation progress and, 1. Me: handising activities if necessary, revise responsibilities for opening of a. Sales promotion announcements of clearances store. b. Markdowns 5. Have teams give implementation progress reports c. Selling to class, present problems, and solicit class sugges- d. Cumulative totals of unit control records tions or help fur solution of problems. 2. Store operations a. Remarking of merchandise markdowns IV. IMPLEMENTATION b. Physical disposal of remaining merchandise c. Physical disposal of fixtures Teaching Content 3. Finance operations A. Running the Store a. Payment of all outstanding bills b. Preparation of final profit and loss statements B. Merchandising Analysis B. Evaluation of "Running the Store" 1. Merchandise 1. Merchandising (buying and selling) a. Qualitative analysis cf current merchandise 2. Finance b. Quantitative analysis of open-to-buy position 3. ...ales promotion activities c. Suggestions for future merchandise and/or 4. Store operations improvement 2. Sales promotion activities C. Evaluation of Class Procedures a. Analysis of activities 1. Initial planning b. Suggestionsforfutureactivitiesand/or 2. Ctvision of responsibilities improvements 3. Preparation for implementation 3. Profit analysis Learning Experiences a. Salestodate 1. Several weeks before the final closing of the store, b. Costs of merchandise have each student team report to the class their c. Operating expenses plans for culminating their store activities and C. Analysis of SalesSupporting Activities responsibilities. Have class at large suggest activities 1. Store operations omitted. a. Evaluation 2. After store has been closed, have each student b. Problems team prepare and present a summarizing report c. Suggestions for improvement and self -evaluation of their activities, for permanent 2. Finance operations class records and use by future classes. a. Evaluation 3. Have students evaluate activities of all class teams. h. Problems and include suggestions for future improvement of c. Suggestions for improvement implementation. 4. Have students discuss and evaluate class procedures Learning Experiences relating to initial planning. division and assignment 1. "Running" the store. of responsibilities, and preparations for implemen- 2. Have each team prepare and present activity and tation. Have students include constructive sugges- progress reports for class analysis, evaluation, and , tions for improvement.

82 Suggested Evaluation Teaching Resources

TEXTS AND REFERENCES Evaluation may be based on evidence that demon- strates the students': Gillespie, K. and J. Hecht. Retail Business Management 1. Fulfillmentof National Retail Merchants Assoc. The Buyers Manual responsibilitiesassigned and/or Wingate, J. and H. Samson. Retail Merchandising assumed. 2. Initiativeinstoreactivities and participation. INSTRUCTIONAL SUPPLIES 3. Productivity as reported in weekly productivity reports. Counters and tables Cabinets for merchandise storage 4. Ability to identify and differentiate betweenmer Display fixtures chandising activities and responsibilities, and sales Examples of store saleschecks supporting activities and operations. Hangers for merchandise 5. Constructive, explicit, and feasible suggestions for Examples of unitCOntrOl forms the improvement of one or more aspects of the Price tickets for merchandise Materials for posters and sigr,s store operation as a whole. Notebooks for financial records

83 FASHION COPYWRITING

Prerequisites: Fashion Sales Promotion; The Ele- ceived by instructor and students alike should be ments and Coordination of Fashion; added to this collection. Camera work may be in- Basic Textiles; Furs and Leathers corporated for the recording of window and interior signs, to be found in retail stores. Suggested Hours: 45 It is also suggested that local manufacturers and retail stores be invited to participate by sending in national and retail advertising campaigns for classroom analysis, Behavioral Objectives and by supplying any merchandising promotions for copywriting samples that may be available. This area of instruction should enable students to: 1. Understand the function, goals, and uses of fashion copy within the fashion merchandising operation, Teaching Modules Suggested Hours at its various promotional levels. 2. Recognize the factors basic to all copywriting. I. Introduction and Orientation 3 3. Evaluate existing, printed headlines and visualiza- II. Basic Factors for Consideration 6 tions, and develop original headlines and visuals. III. Headlines and Visualization 6 4. Analyze and judge current body copy in advertising IV. Body Copy for Advertising Media 9 media, and strengthen their ability to write original V. Copy for Merchandising Media 6 body copy. VI. Total Campaigns 9 5. Develop an ability to write copy for merchandising VII. Conclusion and Recapitulation 6 media. Total Hours 45 6. Gain insight into the construction of a total ad vertising campaign. 7. Recognize the existence of restraining municipal, I. INTRODUCTION AND ORIENTATION state, federal, and associative guidelines for advertising copy. Teaching Content 8. Gain fluency in the terminology of copywriting. A. The Functions of Copywriting 1. To sell products, services, or ideas Instructional Guidelines 2. To maintain or build corporate image (institutional) Since advertising and/or other sales promotion activi- B. What a Copywriter Does ties are an integral part of the merchandising function, 1. Copywriting jobs all prospective merchandisers should, at the very least, 2. The function be able to evaluate the selling effectiveness of written 3. The job's place in the advertising "picture" fashion copy. Many merchandising occupations also a. National advertising involve, to a greater or lesser degree, the writing of b. Retail advertising copy for display presentations, signs, fashion reports, c. Advertising agency market bulletins, and/or direct mail pieces. This area C. Levels of Fashion Copywriting of instruction is an introduction to the basic principles 1. National of copywriting, with major emphasis on fashion copy a. Textile producers directly to consumers in various levels of promotion. b. Apparel and accessory manufacturers directly It is expected and suggested that the instructor use to consumers current newspapers and magazines as an up-to-date c. Wholesalers directly to consumers resource of available material. Direct mail pieces re- 2. Trade

84 a. Textile producers to apparel and accessory Learning Experiences manufacturers and/or retailers 1. Have students examine newspapers, trade papers, b. Apparel and accessorymanufacturers to and fashion magazines to clip, identify, and bring wholesalers and/or retailers into class one example of each level of advertising c. Wholesalers to retailers copywriting. (All advertisements clipped and sub- d. Inter-industry advertising mitted in all learning experiences as assignment 3. Retail: direct advertising to consumers material must be properly identified and must D. Specific Goals show publication source, and day or date of issue) 1. Create sales 2. On the basis of student collections, develop dis- a. Short range cussions in class of the major function served by b. Impulse buying the examples. Have students name the specific c. Long range goal(s) that could be achieved by the samples. 2. Remind customer of needed merchandise 3. Select specific advertisements, and have student 3. Present store events to consumer recognize and name steps in the selling process 4. Create awareness and demand achieved by the samples. a. Product, new or already known 4. Have students start a glossary notebook of special- b. Brandname ized fashion copywriting terminology, to be added c. New department in a store to throughout the course. d. New division in a company 5. Create favorable disposition towards company II. BASIC FACTORS FOR CONSIDERATION of store 6. Impart information and attitudes Teaching Content 7. Offset competitive claims A. The Company, Store, Corporation 8. Correct false impressions 1. Reputation 9. Build confidence in company or store 2. Financial status 10. Create loyal customers out of sporadic ones 3. Age 11. Encourage store visits 4. Geographical extent 12. Offer mail order 5. Size 13. Offer special terms of sales 6. Corporate goals E. Uses B. The Product or Product Line 1. In advertising media 1. Use a. Print: newspapers and magazines 2. Variety b. Broadcast: radio and television 3 Place on merchandise acceptance curve (fashion c. Direct mail: letters, statements and catalogs cycle) d. Miscellaneous: outdoor and transit 4. Category: volume or limited fashion 2. In merchandising media 5. Individual characteristics a. Resident or central buying office bulletins a. Selling points b. Direct mail (secondary use): letters anda.i- b. Product benefits nouncements c. Display and signs C. The Logical Customer-Group 1. Determination of physical characteristics: demo- F. Characteristics of Advertising Copy graphics 1. Form 2. Determinat;on of psychological characteristics: a. Copy psychographics b. Art: photography or illustration 3. Determination of specific buying patterns: cus- c. Layout tomer motivation d. Typography e. Logotype (style of signature) D. Media: Where to Find Targeted Customer -Group 2. Selling process (by which ,unctions and specific 1. Variety of media goals are achieved: AIDA) 2. Availability a. Attention 3. Costs b. interest a. Absolute c. Desire b. Comparative d. Action E. Immediate Objectives to he Achieved ,

85 F. Copy Appeal 8. Charts, diagrams, or X-ray effects 1. The major selling point 9. Symbolism or abstract illustration 2. Presentation as a customer benefit 10. Mood - setting or romanticized background

Learning Experiences Learning Experiences 1. Present a series of mounted or reprinted advertise- 1. Have students look through local newspaper(s) and ments to the class, and ask for student recognition select three advertisements with poor headlines. of basic factors. Have students mount and identify these and give 2. Have students select one or more generally known their reasons for selection of each. products currently on the market, and isolate the 2. Have students (a) rewrite each headline, indicat- basic factors that need to be known before copy ing the proper classification, and (b) using the can be written. checklist, explain why their effort is an improvement. III. HEADLINES AND VISUALIZATION 3. Show a prepared slide series or pre-selected examples of advertisements exemplifying each classi- Teaching Content fication of headline and each classification of visual. A. Functions 1. To attract attention 2. To awaken interest to read further IV. BODY COPY FOR ADVERTISING MEDIA 3. To select a motivated audience Teaching Content B. Classifications of Headlines A. Copy Approaches 1. News and information 1. Definition (method selected by copywriter to 2. Selective present the copy appeal, i.e., the product's sell- 3. Claim ing point that parallels customer-motivation) 4. Advice and promise 2. Classifications 5. Slogan and logotype a. Factual or direct approach 6. Mood-setting 1) Direct selling news 7. Provocative 2) Factual testimony C. Checklist for Effective Headlines b. Narrative approach 1. Arresting 1) Descriptive or human interest 2. Able to draw reader's interest into body copy 2) Fictional testimony 3. Able to select an interested potential customer 3) Monologue or dialogue 4. Carry main selling point in its wording 4) Humor 5. Contain a verb, if at all possible, to add drama 5) Comic strip and action 6) Verse 6. If it presents a question, the answer must lie in c. Projective approach (selling points presented the body copy and product. Thus, the question in terms of effect on reader) must be pertinent. B. Classifications of Closings D. Classifications of Visualization 1. Implied suggestion 1. Illustration of product 2. Soft suggestion a. Alone 3. Command or direct call to action b. In use c. Ina setting C. Company or Store Requirements 1. Signature or logotype d. In its package 2. Illustration of benefit 2. Address a. From product use 3. Branches 4. Where available b. Loss or damage resulting from non-use 5. Store hours 3. Dramatization of headline idea 4. Dramatization of the evidence given to support D. Checklist for Effective Copy a product claim 1. Involvement of the selected audience 5. Enlargement of a detail 2. Maintenance of the "you" point of view 6. Contrast or comparison 3. Avoidance of statements like "We offer..." in 7. Cartoons or trade characters favor of statements like, "Now you can have..."

86 4. Opening with the product benefit(s), i.e., the b. Buying motives of store buyer main selling point or copy appeal, thus restating c. Copy appeals based on product benefits to the headline idea consumer 5. Specific information and details, e.g. avoidance d. Full factual information of "stronger than ..." in favor of "40% stronger C Direct Mail as a Trade Merchandising Medium than..." 1. Dissemination of new product information to 6. Honesty and credibility of statements trade 7. Specific proof in support for all claims 2. Information about changes in product, personnel 8. Provision of clues as to where to buy the product or business policies 9. Appropriateness, honesty, simplicity, timeliness, 3.. Communication of institutional news pace and specifics of language 4. Establishment of friendly atmosphere for later 10. Action demanding closing, e.g. telephone, write business transactions or come in D. Visual Merchandising Media Learning Experiences 1. Classifications 1. Have students bring in three properly mounted ad- a. Window signs vertisements with a paragraph for each evaluating b. Interior signs the body copy. Have students rewrite body copy, 1) Counter -top signs and add a paragraph of explanation as to the changes 2) Shelf signs (shelf-talkers) made in newly written copy. (Hotly copy should 3) Floor stands not be less than 50 words, exclusive of store name 4) Rack signs and any other store information.) 5) Streamers and banners 2. Use an opaque or overhead projector to show three 2. Type of copy needed pieces of existent body copy that you have clearly a. Short marked as examples of the three copy approach b. Rule of thumb: six words or less classifications. Have students rewrite one or more c. Similar to headline copy in a different approach, classifying the new ap- 3. Objectives and uses proach. a. Sale of related merchandise 3. Combine experience #2 with a review of classify- b. Attraction of traffic into store ing and writing headlines as discussed in Module III. c. Emphasis on fashion news d. Location of a department V. COPY FOR MERCHANDISING MEDIA c. Identification of sale merchandisz f. Customer reminders of needed merchandise Teaching Content g. Attention-getter for a special event or price A. Application of Basic Copywriting Factors to Mer- promotion chandising 1. The company 2. The product Learning Experiences 3. The audience 1. Show types of bulletins from actual central or 4. The medium resident buying offices. Where geographical place- 5. The objective(s) ment permits, invite a buying office copywriter or B. Resident or Central Buying Office Bulletins buyer to talk to class about the writing of bulletins. 1. Explanation If this is not feasible, invite a buyer of a large local a. Information from centralized chain offices to retail store to discuss the bulletins that he/she re- affiliated stores ceives from the firm's buying office. b. Information from resident buying offices to 2. Have students take a walking tour of large and small store clients local stores of different types (e.g., fashion leaders, 2. Classifications of major types discount, etc.) Have them list, classify, and justify a.Forecast or projection various visual media noted, with particular attention b. Round-up or market report to window and interior sign copy. c. Resources memorandum 3. Have students isolate and identify a fashion trend d. Flash or telegram and write the copy for a buying office bulletin on 3. Special requirements to be stressed that trend. Have class evaluate the effectiveness of a. Strong selling points of product the bulletins in terms of their intended purpose. 4. Have students select a feasible retail fashion pro- 2. Assembly and study of the advertising facts motion and write copy for one window sign and a. The campaign theme one interior sign. Have class evaluate each other's b. Size of advertising space sign copy. c. Use of blackandwhite versus color 3. Review of product facts (use of any material supplied by producer, store, trade publications) 4. Listing of all the product's selling points VI. TOTAL CAMPAIGNS a. Study and numbering according to impor Teaching Content tance b. Re-listing in order A. The Ingredients of a Plan c. Decision on a cutoff point of not more than 1. Objective three 2. Merchandise and its major selling point 5. Determination of the most effectivecopy appeal 3. Type of customer as target 6. Decision on the copy approach 4. Appeal to be used (expressed as theme) 7. Decision on tentative visualization; sketch or 5. Media needed to select the customer-group make notations for guidance of art department 6. Budget 8. Outline of the body copy 7. Extent of time for which the advertising is being 9. Writing of the headline planned (N.B. Steps 7, 8, and 9 are interchangeable depend- 8. Responsibility for various steps ing upon the frame of reference of the copywriter) 9. Evaluation of results 10. Writing of the first draft B. The Campaign 11. Re-checking all facts (checking of headline and 1. Explanation body copy against checklists [Modules III and a. Series of advertisements and merchandising IV] ) events 12. Conference with art department on actual lay- b. One product or product family out and art c. Same general objective 13. Rewriting to exact layout d. Single unifying central creative theme or idea 14. Writing of final copy, complete in all details e. Frequent use of a variety of media and ready for type specifications 2. Importance 15. Review of proofs after the advertisement is set a. Impact in type (the copywriter is responsible for any b. Memorability errors appearing in print) c. Economical use of budget 3. The "Big Idea" (central theme) Learning Experiences a. Classifications 1) Verbal (identical headline throughout all 1. Have students research fashion magazines to gather at least four different advertisements clearly within variations) 2) Visual (identical layout and visual idea) one campaign from a single fashion company (apparel, textile, or accessory). These samples must be, 3) Verbal-Visual (identical headline and lay- by nature, from different publications, or from out) 4) Thematic (identical selling point and ob- different issues of the same publication. Have the students classify the type of central idea used in jective stressed, though words and visual the campaign, and analyze the basic factors that may ci-.ange) b. So Jrce of ideas went into the final campaign as exempPfied by the examples. 1) Wideinterests:arts,sciences, current 2. Have the students take the same factors, but make events 2) Continual education: formal and informa! a change in the main selling point. Then have them via experience and people build a new campaign, with a new "Big Idea", 3) Use of special techniques: brainstorming, classifying it properly. This may well be handled synthesis, fusing of concepts, adaptation as a student team approach, with students in groups of three or four. C. Preparation of the Copy (15-Step Procedure) 3. Have students write one complete advertisement 1. Assembly and analysis of all the basic factors for their new campaign, noting the publication for (Module II) which it is planned.

88 VII. CONCLUSION AND RECAPITULATION 1. Define and/or explain at least 60% of the terminology (vocabulary lists) the students themselves Teaching Content have developed throughout the course. A. Responsibility of Good Copywriting 2. Recognize the functions of copywriting and a vari 1. Truthful and credible ety of its specific goals. 2. Informative 3. Evaluate, rewrite, and with a given set of copy 3. Helpful factors, write one or more headlines and classify 4. Clear in meaning them. 5. Able to substantiate any claims made 4. Evaluate, rewrite, and with a given set of copy 6. Meet the standards for good taste within the factors, write body copy and classify the ap- given community proaches, 7. Present price promotions that are backed by 5. Prepare one type of bulletin copy and one type adequate stocks of merchandise of visual media from a given set of product facts. 8. Specific and clear in guarantees 6. Given a set of copy and advertising factors, de- 9. Limit testimonial advertising to that of compe- velop an advertising campaign with a strong central tent witnesses who are reflecting real and honest idea, write appropriate copy with headline, body choices text, store details (if retail), and suggest feasible visuals. B. Restraints on Advertisers 1. Federal (Federal Trade Commission, Food and 7. Recognize four or five principles of responsible Drug Administration) advertising and cite examples of what their community provides in the way of restraints and con- 2. State regulations 3. Municipal ordinances (especially sales) trols. 4. Quasi-public organizations a. Better Business Bureaus b. Local Chambers of Commerce and/or Boards Teaching Resources of Trade C. Review of Terminology (reference can be made to TEXTS AND REFERENCES all units and to Learning Experience suggestion Colley, R. Defining Advertising Goals #4, Module I.) Graham, I. Encyclopedia of Advertising Kleppner, 0. Advertising Procedure Learning Experiences Littlefield J. and C. Kirkpatrick. Advertising Milton, S. Advertising Copywriting 1. Have students clip local retail advertisements and Advertising for Modern Reta lers visit stores to ascertain merchandise availability Norins, H. The Compleat Copywriter and to find out if quality, assortments, and prices Robertson, T. Consumer Behavior are as stated in the advertisement. (Note:Itis suggested that this be conducted by having students form teams with a single elected captain PERIODICALS who will "shop the advertisement", each captain Daily News Record in a different store. In this way, a given store Clothes Magazine would not be disrupted by too many inquiring Consumer fashion magazines (men's and women's) Local newspapers and "shoppers" students.) New York limes or other large city newspaper 2. Have teams of students research each of the sectors of restraints and controls, reporting to the class on their findings of legislation and other controls in INSTRUCTIONAL SUPPLIES their own community. Examples of advertisements from current newspapers and magazines Examples of resident and central buying office bulletins Suggested Evaluation Examples of store signs Preprepared classified series of advertisements in slide Evaluation may be based on evidence of the students' form or for use in opaque or overhead projectors ability to: Projector (opaque, overhead and/or slide)

89 FACILITIES, EQUIPMENT, AND INSTRUCTIONAL SUPPLIES

A Fashion Merchandising program does not require Clothes racks $ 40 ea. specialized facilities, elaborate and costly laboratories, Hangers 10 total or complex and expensive equipment. Rather, its success Display mannequins 200 ea. depends upon the resourcefulness of the teacher's selec- Counters 50 ea. tion and utilization of: In-case T stands 75 ea. Sign holders 1. "Real life" instructional supplies and materials that 5 ea. Head forms exemplify basic merchandising principles and illus- 20 ea. trate current and creative merchandising techniques, procedur-s, and activities. 2. Equipment thatis simple enough to be easily INSTRUCTIONAL SUPPLIES handled by students and basic enough to be used for different types of learning experiences for With the exception of publications, most of the "real varied facets of merchandising such as selling, life" instructional supplies listed here can be obtained by visual merchandising, and buying activities. a resourceful teacher, in limited quantities and without It is further recommended that equipment be located any cost, from local or central industry sources. If quan- in the same room(s) in which merchandising classes are tities of merchandising forms and reports are needed for conducted so that it may also be used to illustrate or re- student distribution and use, reproduction costs will be inforce teaching content. The equipment that is herein relatively small, but permission to reproduce materials suggestedlends itselfto placement in multi-purpose should be obtained from their sources. classrooms or in a specialized room in which merchan- SUPPLIES d;sing classes are conducted. Retail merchandising forms (e.g., sales checks, price change forms, order blanks, vendor return forms, EQUIPMENT AND APPROXIMATE COSTS inter- and intra-store merchandise transfer forms, The type of equipment listed here is minimal and can advertising and sign request forms, unit control serve to implement the learning experiences suggested in forms, computerized merchandising reports, inven- the different areas of instruction contained in this guide. tory forms, price tickets, etc.) Quantities of each will depend upon the number of stu- Resident office market bullutins and special reports dents in a class, and the number of merchandising classes Seasonal fashion swatch cards from textile pro- being conducted at any one time. The costs listed are ap- ducers proximate as of the time of this publication. A list of equipment supplies can be obtained by writing to the Fashion reports prepared for inter-firm use by Sales Promotion Department, National Retail Merchants fashion directors of large apparel and retail firms Association, 100 West 31st Street, New York, N.Y. 10001 Mail order brochures and catalogues APPROXIMATE Fabric and leather swatches EQUIPMENT COSTS Merchandise samples Merchandise show cases (different types) $175 ea. Trade publications Accessory display fixtures 10 ea. Fashion magazines

iO3

91 SELECTED BIBLIOGRAPHY

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94 National Retail Merchants' Assoc. The Buyers Manual. Samson, Harland. Advertising and Displaying Merchan- New York, 1965. dise. Cincinnati, South-Western Pub. Co., 1967. ----Readings in Modern Retailing. New York, 1969. Scott, George. Your Future in Retailing. New York, Norins, Hanley. The Comp leat Copywriter. New York, Richards Rosen Press, Inc., 1971. McGraw-Hill Book Co., 1966. Scull, Penrose, and Prescott Fuller. From Peddlers to Nystrom, Paul. The Economics of Fashion. New York, to Merchant Princes. New York, Fawcett Pub., 1967. The Ronald Press Co., 1928. Seidel, Leon. Applied Textile Marketing. Atlanta, W.R.C. Orent, Norman. Your Future in Marketing. New York, Smith Pub. Co., 1971. Richards Rosen Press, Inc., 1966. Severn, William. Hand in Glove. New York, D. McKay Palmer, James L. The Origin, Growth and Transformation Co., 1965. of Marshall Field and Company. New York, Newcomen Solinger, Jacob. Apparel Manufacturing Analysis. New Society in North America, 1963. York, Textile Book Pub., 1961. Paschel, Herbert P. The First Book of Color. New York, Stout, Evelyn. Introduction to Textiles. 3rd ed. New Franklin Watts, Inc., 1959. York, John Wiley & Sons, 1970. Payne, George. Creative Display. New York, National Taylor, John. It's a Small, Medium and Outsize World.' Retail Merchants Association, 1965. London, Hugh Evelyn Pub., 1966. Pegler, Martin M. Show and Sell. Cincinnati, Display Pub. Tepper, Bette, and Newton Godnick. Mathematics for Co., 1970. Retail Buying. New York, Fairchild Pubs., 1973. Pistolese, Rosana, and Ruth Horsting. History of Fash- Terrell, John Upton. Furs by Astor. New York, William ions. New York, John Wiley & Sons, 1970. Morrow & Co., 1963. Potter, Maurice D., and Bernard Corbman. Textiles: Fiber Thorstensen, Thomas C. Practical Leather Technology. to Fabric. 4th ed. New York, McGraw-Hill Book Co., New York, Van Nostrand Reinhold Co., 1969. 1967. Troxell, Mary, and Beatrice Judelle. Fashion Merchandis- Quant, Mary. Quant by Quant. New York, G. P. Putnam's ing. New York, McGraw-Hill Book Co., 1971. Sons, 1966. Vecchio, Walter, and Robert Riley. The Fashion Makers: Quimby, Harold R. The Story of Shoes and the Shoe A Photographic Record. New York, Crown Pub., 1961. Industry. Chicago, Hide, Leather Pub. Co., 1946. Walton, Frank. Tomahawks to Textiles: The Fabulous Reich, Berman and Hager. Essentials of Clothing Con- Story of Worth Street. New York, Appleton-Century- struction. New York, Appleton-Century-Crofts Inc., Crofts, Inc., 1953. 1972. Wilcox, Ruth Turner. The Dictionary of Costume. New Reid, Allan. Modern Applied Salesmanship. Pacific York, Charles Scribner's Sons, 1969. Palisades, Calif., Goodyear Pub. Co., 1970. Willinsky, Har. let. Careers and Opportunities in Retail- Reilly, Phillip. Old Masters of Retailing. New York, ing. New York, National Retail Merchants Assoc., Fairchild Pubs., 1967. 1970. Roach, Mary Ellen, and Joanne B. Eicher. Dress, Adorn- Wingate, Isabel. Textile Fabrics and Their Selection. 6th ment and the Social Order. New York, John Wiley & ed. Englewood Cliffs, New Jersey, Prentice-Hall, Inc., Sons, 1965. 1970. Robinson, 0. Preston, Christine Robinson, and George Wingate, Isabel, Karen Gillespie, and Betty Addison. Zeiss. Successful Retail Salesmanship. 3rd ed. Engle- Know Your Merchandise. 3rd ed. New York, Gregg wood Cliffs, New Jersey, Prentice-Hall, Inc., 1961. Pk.S.,GreggDiv.,McGraw-Hill Book Company, Robertson, Thomas S. Consumer Behavior. Chicago, 1964. Scott, Foresman Co., 1970. Wingate, John, and Joseph Friedlander. The Management Rosenbloom, Morris. How to Design Effective Store Ad- of Retail Buying. Englewood Cliffs, New Jersey, vertising. New York, National Retail Merchants Assoc., Prentice-Hall, Inc., 1963. 1961. Wingate, John, and Carroll Nolan. Fundamentals of Rowe, Frank. Display Fundamentals. Cincinnati, Display Selling. 9th ed. Cincinnati, South-Western Pub. Co., Pub. Co., 1965. 1969. Ruhm, Herman D. Marketing Textiles. New York, Fair- Wingate, John, and Harland Samson. Retail Merchandis- child Pubs., 1970. ing. Cincinnati, South-Western Pub. Co., 1968. Russell, Fred, Frank Beach, and Richard Buskirk. Text- Wingate, John, Elmer Schaller, and Leonard Miller. Re- book of Salesmanship. 8th ed. New York, McGraw- tail Merchandise Management. Englewood Cliffs, New Hill Book Co., 1969. Jersey, Prentice-Half, Inc., 1972. Ryan, Mary S. Clothing, A Study in Human Behavior. Wingate, John, and D. Weiner. Retail Merchandising. New York, Holt, Rinehart & Winston, Inc., 1966. Cincinnati, South-Western Pub. Co., 1963.

95 Wingate, John, Eimer Schaller, and Robert Bell. Problems Department Store Management, 60 East 42nd Street, in Retail Merchandising. 6th ed. Englewood Cliffs, New York, N.Y. 10017 New Jersey, PrenticeHall, Inc., 1973. Discount Merchandiser, 205 East 42nd Street, New Winters, Arthur, and Stanley Goodman. Fashion Sales York, N.Y. 10017 Promotion Handbook. New York, F .I.T. College Shop, Display World, 407 Gilbert Avenue, Cinn., Ohio 45202 1972. (227 West 27th St., New York, N.Y. 10001) Earnshaw's Infants, Boys and Girls Wear, 393 Seventh Avenue, New York, N.Y. 10016 Fashion Calendar, 8 East 77th Street, New York, N.Y. 10021 Footwear News, 7 East 12th Street, New York, N.Y. 10003 SELECTED TRADE PUBLICATIONS Fur Age Weekly, 127 West 30th Street, New York, N.Y. 10016 Advertising Age, 740 Rush Street, Chicago, Ili. 60611 Fur Parade, 330 Seventh Avenue, New York, N.Y. American Fabrics, 24 East 38th Street, New York, 10016 N.Y. 10016 Glove Life, Gloversville, N.Y. 12078 Apparel Manufacturer, Riverside, Conn. 06878 Handbags and Accessories, 1133 Broadway, New York, Body Fashions, 757 Third Avenue, New York, N.Y. N.Y. 10001 10017 Hosiery and Underwear Review, 757 Third Avenue, Boot and Shoe Recorder, Bala Cynwyd, Pa. 19004 New York, N.Y. 10017 Boutique Magazine, 1300 Broadway, New York, N.Y. Intimate Apparel, 757 Third Avenue, New York, N.Y. 10018 10017 California Apparel News, 1011 So. Los Angeles Street, Men's Wear, 7 East 12th Street, New York, N.Y. Los Angeles, Calif. 90015 10003 California Men's Stylist, 1011 So. Los Angeles Street, Modern Textiles, 350 Fifth Avenue, New York, N.Y. Los Angeles, Calif. 90015 10016 Chain Store Age, 2 Park Avenue, New York, N.Y. Stores Magazine, 100 West 31st Street, New York, 10003 N.Y. 10001 Clothes Magazine, 47 West 44th Street, New York, Western Apparel Industry, 112 W. 9th Street, Lo. N.Y. 10036 Angeles, Calif. 90015 Daily News Record, 7 East 12th Street, New York, Women's Wear Daily. 7 East 12th Street, New York, N.Y. 10013 N.Y. 11003 Appendix

REPRESENTATIVE TRADE ASSOCIATIONS

AMERICAN APPAREL MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCI- MANMADE FIBER PRODUCERS' ASSOCIATION, ATION, 1611 N. Kent Street, Arlington, Va. 22209 Inc., 1000 Connecticut Ave., Washington, D.C. 20036 AMERICAN FOOTWEAR MANUFACTURERS, 342 MEN'S FASHION GUILD, 353 Fifth Avenue, New York, Madison Avenue, New York, N.Y. 10017 N.Y. 10019 AMERICAN TEXTILE MANUFACTURERS' INSTI- MEN'S RETAILERS of AMERICA, 1290 Avenue of the TUTE, 1501 JohnstonBuilding, Charlotte, N.C. Americas, New York, N.Y. 10019 28202 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION of GLOVE MANUFAC- ASSOCIATION of BUYING OFFICES, 100 West 31st TURERS, Gloversville, N.Y. 12078 Street, New York, N.Y. 10001 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION of MEN'S SPORTSWEAR BOYS and YOUNG MENS APPAREL MANUFAC- BUYERS, 185 Madison Ave., New York, N.Y. 10017 TURERS' ASSOCIATION, 10 West 33rd Street, New NATIONAL COTTON COUNCIL, 1918 North Parkway, York, N.Y. 10001 Box 12285, Memphis, Tenn. 38301 CALIFORNIA FASHION CREATORS, 110 East 9th NATIONAL DRESS MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIA- Street, Los Angeles, Calif. 90015 TION, 570 Seventh Avenue, New York, N.Y. 10018 CHAMBRE SYNDICALE de la COUTURE PARIS- NATIONAL FOOTWEAR MANUFACTURERS' ASSO- IENNE, 100 Rue Du Fauborg St. Honore, Paris 5, CIATION, 342 Madison Avenue, New York, N.Y. France 10017 CLOTHING EXPORT COUNCIL of GREAT BRITAIN, NATIONAL HANDBAG ASSOCIATION, 347 Fifth 54 Grosvenor Street, London W19, England Avenue, New York, N.Y. 10019 CLOTHING MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION, 135 NATIONAL KNITWEAR MANUFACTURERS' ASSO- West 50th Street, New York, N.Y. 10020 CIATION, 350 Fifth Avenue, New York, N.Y. COTTON, Inc., 350 Fifth Avenue, New York, N.Y. 10019 10001 FASHION GROUP, 9 Rockefeller Plaza, New York, N.Y. NATIONAL MILLINERY PLANNING BOARD Inc., 10020 (Regional Offices in all major cities in U.S.A.) 10 East 40th Street, New York, N.Y. 10019 FUR INFORMATION and FASHION COUNCIL, 101 NATIONAL RETAIL MERCHANT'S ASSOCIATION, West 30th Street, New York, N.Y. 10001 100 West 31st Street, New York, N.Y. 10001 INTERNATIONAL SILK ASSOCIATION, 200 Madison NEW YORK COUTURE BUSINESS COUNCIL, 141 Avenue, New York, N.Y. 10017 West 41st Street, New York, N.Y. 10036 JEWELRY INDUSTRY COUNCIL, 608 Fifth Avenue, TANNERS COUNCIL, 411 Fifth Avenue, New York, New York, N.Y. 10020 N.Y. 10019 LEATHER INDUSTRIES of AMERICA, 411 Fifth TEXTILE DISTRIBUTORSASSOCIATION, 1040 Avenue, New York, N.Y. 10016 Avenue of the Americas, New York, N.Y. 10018 LINGERIE MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION, 41 WOOL BUREAU Inc., 386 Lexington Avenue, New East 42nd Street, New York, N.Y. 10017 York, N.Y. 10017