A CAMP ON THE HISTORIC APOSTLE ISLANDS "BENEATH THE EVERGREEN BOUGH.'

AMONG THE HISTORIC APOSTLE ISLANDS

BY SAM S. FIFIELD

HE general impression that all of into the clear waters at the base of the the fascinating history of the early steep bank, affords a secure landing from T settlement of this country clus­ which winds a rustic stairway leading to ters along the Atlantic coast and the tented village above. From a tall gulf is a mistake. The early settlements mast "Old Glory" floats gracefully, adding of the French on the Great Lakes and its bit of color above the green foliage of among the famous Apostle Islands in Lake the camp ground, telling that patriotic Superior furnish a most important chapter hearts are there that beat with a love ol in history. The interest in these islands country and its flag. It is a pretty picture, and the early settlements of Lake Superior this camp in the wilderness, nestled on the is renewed in the semi-centennial celebra­ shore of an island, one of a romantic and tion of the admission of Wisconsin as a state. historic group,' washed by the waves of There is also the fact that thousands of the Lake Superior the "Great Northern tourists visit these lakes every year and Sea." camp in the forests primeval, miles away It was here amid these beautiful sur­ from the haunts of civilization. It is here roundings, that we spent a portion of our that one realizes the majesty of nature outing last season, and found much of primeval—untouched. Our camp, on one of interest, not only in the pleasures of the the Apostle Islands, nestling among tower­ camp, but in the enjoyable trips of the ing pines was indeed a captivating and yacht through the islands, several of which, beautiful retreat. aside from their scenic beauty, have their Beneath the evergreen boughs the story, or have played a prominent part in white tents glisten through the open the historical drama of the mystical past. spaces of a beautiful grove. The sun While this country is comparatively finds its way among the tree tops new to modern civilization, its annals of that cast a welcome shade where voyage and discovery in the days of Fron- the hammocks are hung, while a tenac and Champlain, are old and musty. gentle breeze, cooled by the waves of One beautiful, cloudless day, when the the sparkling bay, plays summer airs, great lake was as calm as a mirror, and that lull and soothe the happy campers to under the bright sunlight, looked like delightful dreams. A crib that juts out molten silver, the yacht sped its way AMONG THE HISTORIC APOSTLE ISLANDS 36s

through the grand channels like a thing these caverns become seething cauldrons, of life, bearing a happy party that thor­ and the rushing waves dash into them with oughly enjoyed the magnificent scenery, almost resistless power. Often when the as island after island was brought to view. storms are at their height, the spray from We ran out the north channel that day, the sea, beating against the rocks below, passingYorkandBear islands on our right, is thrown against the glass of the light­ and leaving Sand island light astern. Our house lantern, forty feet above its base, first stop was at Devil island, which is while the roar of rushing waters is like the outside guardian to the north, where deafening thunder, and the island itself is is located the finest lighthouse station on shaken to its very foundations. the lake. The Indians in the early days declared Devil island is a curiosity and undoubt­ it to be the home of Matchie-Manitou, the edly presents the most remarkable group "Evil Spirit," whom Kitchi-Manitou, the of caverns, in their way, to be found on the "Great Spirit," had imprisoned there. continent. The island itself is a huge block Hence its name, Devil island. of Potsdam sandstone, rising from forty From the lighthouse tower a grand view to fifty feet above the water level, the of nearly all the islands is obtained, while whole covered with a dense evergreen for­ to the north the "Saw Tooth Range" of est. The northeast exposure resists the the Minnesota shore, fades away and sinks force of three hundred miles of sea, and into the open sea. The great fleets which during the centuries that have passed, the carry the commerce of this international waves have honeycombed the solid walls waterway to the ocean, pass in review be­ into great chambers, which are supported fore this fine observatory. And what a

NATURE S PALACE IN THE WILDWOOD.

by magnificent arches, and hundreds of wonderful fleet it is, of every class of ves­ fantastically carved pillars. One can row sel, from a palatial passenger steamer to into these caves several hundred feet, pass­ the ugly pig-nosed whaleback, loaded with ing from one to another through wide the exports of an inland empire, created corridors, substantially built in Nature's during the present half of the century! masonry. Singly, in tows, in convoys of almost end­ During the terrible storms that periodi­ less variety, steaming and under sail, they cally sweep over the great chain of lakes, pass by, up and down the course in end- Ir .

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366 AMONG THE HISTORIC APOSTLE ISLANDS

THE VILLAGE OF LA POINTE ON MADELINE ISLAND WHERE FATHER MARQUETTE LANDED IN 1665, LA POINTE MISSION IN THE FOREGROUND.

less procession during the season of navi­ he saw the waters rise he went to a great gation. So close do they often come, that pine tree, which ascending, he commanded the glass brings up the faces of those who to grow as fast as the rising flood. The walk their decks, and one wonders who "Water Spirit," finding that he could not they are and from what port they sail. reach him, caused the waters to slowly When Johnathan Carver gave these subside. After the twelfth sun, the waters islands their name, he thought there was stood still, and "Winnebozho" descended to but twelve, and so called them "The the surface. As he did so an otter came Apostles." The name was undoubtedly swimming to him, seeking safety. "Win­ suggested, however, by the historical fact, nebozho" lifted him up and after he had that in 1665, the Jesuits established a mis­ rested him in his arms, told him to dive sion on the shore of Chequamegon bay, down and bring him up some earth that. which lies near by to the southwest. This he might create land. But the otter could was Father Allouez's "Mission of the Holy not reach the bottom. Just as he had Ghost," where Father James Marquette, failed a mink came along and was sent his successor, first learned through the In­ down, but he, too, was unsuccessful. As dians of the mighty Mississippi, by the he came up a muskrat appeared and "Win­ discovery of which he immortalized his nebozho" took him up and, breathing in name. And thus they were named after his nostrils, told him to go down and "The Twelve," although they number bring him earth or never come back. The twenty-two in all. rat swam swiftly down, and after a terri •: The Ojibewas, the powerful tribe that ble struggle came up lifeless and on his inhabited the shores of the great lake when back. "Winnebozho" picked him up and the French traders and their voyageurs found in his claws some grains of sand. first penetrated its mysteries, had a tra­ He brought the little animal to life and dition that gave the origin of these islands. then taking the sand in his hand, he blew It was one of hundreds of their fanciful a strong breath upon it, scattering it over legends told by the old chiefs to their the surface of the water for a long dis­ children, by the light of the lodge fires: tance, and immediately every grain began, to grow and soon became islands. Thus It is claimed that "Winnebozho," the they originated and one of them, Madeline, first man, had a quarrel with the "Water became the hunting ground of "Winne­ Spirit," who ruled the floods, in conse­ bozho." And because the muskrat saved quence of which the Spirit determined to "Winnebozho" it has ever since been the drown him. He at once caused the waters favorite animal of the Ojibewas. to rise until they had covered the whole earth. "Winnebozho," however, was pos­ From Devil island we sailed outside, sessed of supernatural powers, and when passing Rice, Willey and North Twin and AMONG THE HISTORIC APOSTLE ISLANDS 367 rounding the east sunlight steals down, end of Hemlock, casting shadows passed between it from nook to nook, and Outer island, that make the place the second in size seem like a grotto and farthest east. in fabled Fairyland. Here a light of the Southwest, and second order, the two miles away, is most powerful in another charming use by the govern­ island, on the east ment on inland wa­ end of which has ters, serves as a been developed a guide to the ship brownstone quarry. channel a^ well as Near at hand on a tTeacon for ves­ high projecting sels coming from ledge, is located a the North Shore. It romantic summer carT""*»e seen in good home known as weather"forty miles "Bark Cottage," at sea. from the fact that its walls are entirely South of Hem­ covered with the lock lies Presque bark of the white Isle, third in area, cedar,—the Indian's and first in scenic TEMPLE GATE," SAND ISLAND. shingles. The island beauty. The pali­ Hermit" or "Wilson's" sades that extend for several miles is known as along the north and east face of the island island, and has its tragedy: are wonderfully attractive. Their high One day, soon after the American Fur frowning walls of brownstone are broken Company had settled at La Pointe, a into deep riffs and chasms and crowned stranger appeared at the post. He was a with moss-seamed battlements, that the man of medium height, with a close and wear of centuries has shaped and fashioned, well knit frame; dark complexion, and until they resemble the ruins of ancient iron gray hair, which thickly covered a castles. Here and there are great seams well shaped head. He was silent but ob­ where the frost action has torn the rocks servant, quick and active in his move­ asunder, and in one place the ebb and flow ments, carrying the air of one who had of the sea has hollowed out a charming seen much service. He remained a few dell, surrounded by perpendicular walls days about the stockade and then, as sud­ from forty to fifty feet in height, its en­ denly as he came, disappeared. A month trance guarded by a rocky sentinel, known later, some strolling Indians reported that as the "Sphinx," which it greatly resem­ the stranger had built a cabin on one of bles. The yacht enters it by a narrow the islands, and was making a clearing. passage, and once within, is perfectly hid­ From that day until his death he lived den from the outside world. Here the alone, except that he had his dogs and water is as clear as crystal and very deep, chickens. He gradually increased his and reflects the rocky caverns below, clearing until it became quite a large gar­ where often fish are to be seen swimming den, which he cultivated with great care. in and out of their hiding places. The Twice a year he visited the post where he yacht is tied up to a solid wall by passing purchased his supplies, always paying for a line through a natural ring, worn in a them in Mexican gold and silver. When projecting ledge, as though made for the his business was finished, without a word purpose by human hands. Overhead hang to his neighbors, he entered his boat and the limbs of great pine and hemlock trees, returned to his island home. His ways almost forming a roof, through which the and mode of life began to attract attention 368 AMONG THE HISTORIC APOSTLE ISLANDS as the years passed by, and much specula­ cold in death. He had evidently been mur­ tion was indulged in as to who he was dered. Everything about the place had and from whence he came. Curiosity been overturned by his murderers in their brought him visitors, but he peremptorily mad search for his money, even the stone ordered them away, and when Indians, he hearth of his fireplace had been removed. came forth with his rifle and dogs, and on Among his effects were found a number one occasion drove them to their boats of books, both in French and English, in­ by force. His having money caused much dicating that he was a man of some ac­ comment, and the sums reported to have complishments, but nothing was discov­ been seen when he came to the post to ered identifying him. In a clock, over­ make his purchases, increased as the story looked by the assasins, was found a can­ was retold, until he was possessed of fabu­ vas bag, containing forty-four Mexican lous wealth. silver dollars and a few gold pieces, which It was also said of him, that he was one the authorities used in defraying the ex­ of the brave band that had crossed the pense of his burial, in the old cemetery at continent to the mouth of the Columbia La Pointe. So from "Wilson, the Her­ river, where he had helped to build the mit," the island takes its name. American Fur Company's post, Astoria. Passing Wilson we sailed down the west Other stories connected him with crime, shore of Madeline, the largest and most by which he had gained the wealth that important,—the "Queen of the Apostles." supported him in his hermit life. As he We landed at a pier that rests upon the grew old his visits to the settlements be­ ruins of Astor's old dock, built nearly a came less frequent and he seldom left his century ago. island, except Madeline lies to go to his between the net, a short east and south distance from channels, the his cabin. He two great road­ allowed a few steads that give persons to visit safe entrance to him occasion­ the important ally at this ports on the time, and they Wi s c o n s i n supplied h i s coast. The isl­ wants, but he and is a succes­ continued t o sion of great live as before, land waves ex­ without a com­ tending from panion or a southwest t o friend: northeast for One day an twelve miles Indian came to and averaging La Pointe and three miles in said that the width. It is hermit was high and roll- dead. Immedi­ i n g, covered ately a party with a heavy was sent to the fc rest growth,— island, where a beautiful isl­ they found him and, with a ro­ stretched out mantic history. upon the rough At the base puncheon floor of the island, on a level of his cabin, "THE DEVIL'S PIANO," DEVIL ISLAND. 370 AMONG THE HISTORIC APOSTLE ISLANDS

years, and explored the coun­ try in every direction. The last commander of the post of which there is any record, was Hertel de Beau- bossin, who left with a band of Ojibewas to fight the Eng­ lish, during the French and Indian war. With the fall of New France the fort was ! abandoned as a military post. Alexander Henry and John Baptiste Cadotte, two Indian traders, famous in the annals of the Northwest fur trade, were the next to occupy the "old fort," which they con­ "THE SPHINX," PRESQUE ISLE. verted into a trading post for to keep open the lake channel of trade the Northwest Fur Company, maintained with the Sioux, is said to have built a fort for many years. Another noted trader who on the island, in 1692, near the centre of came to the island was John Johnson, the old Indian village, he and his followers who afterwards was Astor's first manager being probably the first. at Sault Ste. Marie. He built a post and Nearly a quarter of a century after this, traded for the Hudson Bay Fur Company, Sieur St. Pierre erected a fort at the south­ in the latter part of the eighteenth cen­ ernmost end of the island, which some tury. Michael Cadotte, son of John Bap­ eight or nine years later was garrisoned by tiste Cadotte, succeeded his father at La a company of French regulars and in com­ Pointe, in the early days of the nineteenth mand of Sieur De Linctot, who, by direc­ century and the island became his home tion of De Lignery, commandant at Mack­ and bore his name for nearly forty years, inaw, distributed presents and made the or until the dawn of the American era. first treaty between the Ojibewas and the Congress having passed a law that none Sioux. It was one of the many that were but American citizens could trade with made and broken in the years to follow. the Indians within the territory of the Sieur La Ronde succeeded De Linctot at United States, the consolidated Northwest "Chagouamigon," as the post was called by the French. He was accompanied by his son, who was the first white man to explore the so- called pre-historic copper mines of Isle Royale. At this post La Ronde built the first sailing vessel to float on the lake, a bark of forty tons, which he used for several years in making voyages of discovery. La Ronde was empowered to search for and mine copper, and his was the first work done at Ontonagon and also at Isle Royale. He remained at "Chagouamigon" fourteen "LONE ROCK," PRESQUE ISLE. AMONG THE HISTORIC APOSTLE ISLANDS 371

and Hudson Bay Company retired to Brit­ Ghost." Baraga was an Austrian noble ish soil and the company organized by by birth, but surrendering his ancestral John Jacob Astor occupied their vacant honors and estates, entered the priest­ posts by right of purchase, employing hood. He was a man of great learning most of their old traders and voyaguers. and ability, full of love for the poor and This company at once organized its busi­ lowly, and the Indians soon learned to ness, and La Pointe became headquarters love and follow him. Among the voya­ for the Lac du Flambeau, Lac Court gers there were many Catholics, who Orielles, and Chewamegon department, gave him a warm welcome and were eager with Lyman M. Warren, one of the first to do his bidding. In a week he had Amer i can erected a traders, as sm a 11 log factor or gen­ church, where eral man­ he said mass ager. and gathered For forty his people years La around him. Pointe was For six years headquarters he preached for the in this little Northwest fur log building, trade and and gathered grew rapidly many con­ in import­ verts into the ance. It fold. He la­ reachea:"the bored night height of. and day for its prosperitj his children under the as he called influence of them, wrote this great or­ soliciting let­ ganization, rl _, - •-•«..' ters to the u when its : Ml •'-:, ••..- m churcb 3 u- mixed popu­ i,. thorities at w WS ! lation was w i • ' '•".• :..• Rome, and to nearly, if not 111 4 . '• ..V •« churchmen in quite, 2,500 h i s native souls. This HHBi land and era in the 1Wmmmm Sim with funds history of the ! thus ob­ island w i t- tained, and nessed the re­ OLD PAINTING IN THE ANCIENT CATHOLIC CHURCH AT with the aid turn of the LA POINTE. of the Amer- missionary and the renewal of efforts, built a new ican Fur Company, he both by Catholic and Protestant, to chris­ still stands and larger church, which tianize the Ojibewas. At this time the During his a monument to his memory, Indians had taken the name of Chippewas, ten years' labor at La Pointe, he baptised the official title given them by the United nearly a thousand converts. Thus over States, which they still bear. one hundred and eighty years after the The first to enter the field was the Jesuit Mission of Allouez was abandoned by rather Frederic Baraga, a missionary of Marquette, the church was again estab­ ;reat experience among the Ottawas of lished in all its power. In the new "old ..ake Huron. He came to revive the Mis- church," which is the centre of attraction ion of Allouez,—"The Mission of the Holy in the present village, there is a painting, 372 AMONG THE HISTORIC APOSTLE ISLANDS

"The Descent From the Cross," which tercups, the lodges of the Ojibewas, like Father Baraga brought from Austria. It ghosts of departed spirits, stood in long is a work of rare merit and is supposed to lines, and the smoke of their camp-fires be over a century old. It is much cher­ floated lazily away and faded into the gray ished relic by the Catholics of to-day. autumn haze. The streets were again the After his labors at La Pointe, he went promenade of the careless Coureurs dw bois, to 'L'Anse, and ten years later was created with their dusky sweethearts, and the stolid Bishop of Sault Ste. Marie, where he soon chiefs in all their dignity, embellished with after died. He was buried in the Cathe­ beads and feathers, walked side by side with dral at Marquette, Michigan, beside the the sturdy traders and discussed the price ashes of Father James Marquette, who pre­ of beaver and the prospect of the winter's ceded him in his missionary field, nearly hunt. The old trading post with its high two hundred years. palisades and warehouses Occupied its About the same time Baraga came to La place, and a motley crowd of loiterers Pointe, a Protestant mission was estab­ graced its entrance as of old, while the lished by the American Board of Commis­ Indian children and their dogs romped on sioners of Foreign Missions. A large the sandy beach, their shouts and laughter mission house and school was erected, easily heard above the droning hum of and a small church built, both of which village life. still remain as evidences of Christian zeal. From across the fields, where the "Medi­ This mission was maintained with varying cine Men" were holding forth in the "Me- success, until the treaty with the Indians da-we" lodge, floated the dull beat of the removed it to the Bad River Reservation, tom-tom, while blending with its muffled where it was continued for many years. measure, rose the soft, sweet music of the In connection with this work, the names mission bell, calling its people to their of Ayer, Boutwell, Hall and Wheeler, all evening service. devoted ministers, stand out conspicuous­ It was a vivid picture, one that startled ly in the history of the Missouri of the us from our dreaming, and we awakened to west. find that our vision had fled,—that the past La Pointe was indeed the theatre of and its glories were but the dust of the many historical events, important in their dead. relation to the settlement and development We sailed away from fair Madeline as of a great and rich country that is now a the sun sank behind the western hills in happy and prosperous part of the Ameri­ all its autumn glory, its brilliant rays can Union. Not the least of these were two changing the glassy sea into sheets of treaties with the Chippewas, by which they golden splendor. ceded their country to the Government, Up through the northern passage skirt­ and settled down as quiet and peaceable ing the Red Cliff shore of the mainland we subjects upon their reservations. glide, and leaving Bass, Wilson and Oak As we stood before the old Jesuit church islands on our right, we change our course that beautiful sunny afternoon, looking to the westward, and as the flash of Rasp­ down upon the deserted and desolate berry light illuminates the deepening twi­ streets of the once busy metropolis of a light, so does the flash of our camp-fire wilderness empire, like the flash of a cam­ light up the tree tops of our island grove, era, the scenes of its long past glories were and the signaling whistle and the rattling renewed. Over the vacant common, white anchor chain, is answered by a chorus of and gleaming with daisies and golden but­ merry voices,—our welcome home. fllimTbE^l?

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