Among the Historic Apostle Islands

A CAMP ON THE HISTORIC APOSTLE ISLANDS "BENEATH THE EVERGREEN BOUGH.' AMONG THE HISTORIC APOSTLE ISLANDS BY SAM S. FIFIELD HE general impression that all of into the clear waters at the base of the the fascinating history of the early steep bank, affords a secure landing from T settlement of this country clus which winds a rustic stairway leading to ters along the Atlantic coast and the tented village above. From a tall gulf is a mistake. The early settlements mast "Old Glory" floats gracefully, adding of the French on the Great Lakes and its bit of color above the green foliage of among the famous Apostle Islands in Lake the camp ground, telling that patriotic Superior furnish a most important chapter hearts are there that beat with a love ol in history. The interest in these islands country and its flag. It is a pretty picture, and the early settlements of Lake Superior this camp in the wilderness, nestled on the is renewed in the semi-centennial celebra shore of an island, one of a romantic and tion of the admission of Wisconsin as a state. historic group,' washed by the waves of There is also the fact that thousands of the Lake Superior the "Great Northern tourists visit these lakes every year and Sea." camp in the forests primeval, miles away It was here amid these beautiful sur from the haunts of civilization. It is here roundings, that we spent a portion of our that one realizes the majesty of nature outing last season, and found much of primeval—untouched. Our camp, on one of interest, not only in the pleasures of the the Apostle Islands, nestling among tower camp, but in the enjoyable trips of the ing pines was indeed a captivating and yacht through the islands, several of which, beautiful retreat. aside from their scenic beauty, have their Beneath the evergreen boughs the story, or have played a prominent part in white tents glisten through the open the historical drama of the mystical past. spaces of a beautiful grove. The sun While this country is comparatively finds its way among the tree tops new to modern civilization, its annals of that cast a welcome shade where voyage and discovery in the days of Fron- the hammocks are hung, while a tenac and Champlain, are old and musty. gentle breeze, cooled by the waves of One beautiful, cloudless day, when the the sparkling bay, plays summer airs, great lake was as calm as a mirror, and that lull and soothe the happy campers to under the bright sunlight, looked like delightful dreams. A crib that juts out molten silver, the yacht sped its way AMONG THE HISTORIC APOSTLE ISLANDS 36s through the grand channels like a thing these caverns become seething cauldrons, of life, bearing a happy party that thor and the rushing waves dash into them with oughly enjoyed the magnificent scenery, almost resistless power. Often when the as island after island was brought to view. storms are at their height, the spray from We ran out the north channel that day, the sea, beating against the rocks below, passingYorkandBear islands on our right, is thrown against the glass of the light and leaving Sand island light astern. Our house lantern, forty feet above its base, first stop was at Devil island, which is while the roar of rushing waters is like the outside guardian to the north, where deafening thunder, and the island itself is is located the finest lighthouse station on shaken to its very foundations. the lake. The Indians in the early days declared Devil island is a curiosity and undoubt it to be the home of Matchie-Manitou, the edly presents the most remarkable group "Evil Spirit," whom Kitchi-Manitou, the of caverns, in their way, to be found on the "Great Spirit," had imprisoned there. continent. The island itself is a huge block Hence its name, Devil island. of Potsdam sandstone, rising from forty From the lighthouse tower a grand view to fifty feet above the water level, the of nearly all the islands is obtained, while whole covered with a dense evergreen for to the north the "Saw Tooth Range" of est. The northeast exposure resists the the Minnesota shore, fades away and sinks force of three hundred miles of sea, and into the open sea. The great fleets which during the centuries that have passed, the carry the commerce of this international waves have honeycombed the solid walls waterway to the ocean, pass in review be into great chambers, which are supported fore this fine observatory. And what a NATURE S PALACE IN THE WILDWOOD. by magnificent arches, and hundreds of wonderful fleet it is, of every class of ves fantastically carved pillars. One can row sel, from a palatial passenger steamer to into these caves several hundred feet, pass the ugly pig-nosed whaleback, loaded with ing from one to another through wide the exports of an inland empire, created corridors, substantially built in Nature's during the present half of the century! masonry. Singly, in tows, in convoys of almost end During the terrible storms that periodi less variety, steaming and under sail, they cally sweep over the great chain of lakes, pass by, up and down the course in end- Ir . - \ 366 AMONG THE HISTORIC APOSTLE ISLANDS THE VILLAGE OF LA POINTE ON MADELINE ISLAND WHERE FATHER MARQUETTE LANDED IN 1665, LA POINTE MISSION IN THE FOREGROUND. less procession during the season of navi he saw the waters rise he went to a great gation. So close do they often come, that pine tree, which ascending, he commanded the glass brings up the faces of those who to grow as fast as the rising flood. The walk their decks, and one wonders who "Water Spirit," finding that he could not they are and from what port they sail. reach him, caused the waters to slowly When Johnathan Carver gave these subside. After the twelfth sun, the waters islands their name, he thought there was stood still, and "Winnebozho" descended to but twelve, and so called them "The the surface. As he did so an otter came Apostles." The name was undoubtedly swimming to him, seeking safety. "Win suggested, however, by the historical fact, nebozho" lifted him up and after he had that in 1665, the Jesuits established a mis rested him in his arms, told him to dive sion on the shore of Chequamegon bay, down and bring him up some earth that. which lies near by to the southwest. This he might create land. But the otter could was Father Allouez's "Mission of the Holy not reach the bottom. Just as he had Ghost," where Father James Marquette, failed a mink came along and was sent his successor, first learned through the In down, but he, too, was unsuccessful. As dians of the mighty Mississippi, by the he came up a muskrat appeared and "Win discovery of which he immortalized his nebozho" took him up and, breathing in name. And thus they were named after his nostrils, told him to go down and "The Twelve," although they number bring him earth or never come back. The twenty-two in all. rat swam swiftly down, and after a terri •: The Ojibewas, the powerful tribe that ble struggle came up lifeless and on his inhabited the shores of the great lake when back. "Winnebozho" picked him up and the French traders and their voyageurs found in his claws some grains of sand. first penetrated its mysteries, had a tra He brought the little animal to life and dition that gave the origin of these islands. then taking the sand in his hand, he blew It was one of hundreds of their fanciful a strong breath upon it, scattering it over legends told by the old chiefs to their the surface of the water for a long dis children, by the light of the lodge fires: tance, and immediately every grain began, to grow and soon became islands. Thus It is claimed that "Winnebozho," the they originated and one of them, Madeline, first man, had a quarrel with the "Water became the hunting ground of "Winne Spirit," who ruled the floods, in conse bozho." And because the muskrat saved quence of which the Spirit determined to "Winnebozho" it has ever since been the drown him. He at once caused the waters favorite animal of the Ojibewas. to rise until they had covered the whole earth. "Winnebozho," however, was pos From Devil island we sailed outside, sessed of supernatural powers, and when passing Rice, Willey and North Twin and AMONG THE HISTORIC APOSTLE ISLANDS 367 rounding the east sunlight steals down, end of Hemlock, casting shadows passed between it from nook to nook, and Outer island, that make the place the second in size seem like a grotto and farthest east. in fabled Fairyland. Here a light of the Southwest, and second order, the two miles away, is most powerful in another charming use by the govern island, on the east ment on inland wa end of which has ters, serves as a been developed a guide to the ship brownstone quarry. channel a^ well as Near at hand on a tTeacon for ves high projecting sels coming from ledge, is located a the North Shore. It romantic summer carT""*»e seen in good home known as weather"forty miles "Bark Cottage," at sea. from the fact that its walls are entirely South of Hem covered with the lock lies Presque bark of the white Isle, third in area, cedar,—the Indian's and first in scenic TEMPLE GATE," SAND ISLAND.

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