Extension Bulletin 262 January, 1941 AND ITS CARE

EXTENSION SERVICE State College of Washington Pullman Washington TABLE OF CONTENTS Page Care of the ------___ __ 3 Protecting the Mattress ------3 A Cover for the Springs ------3 A Mattress Cover ------5 A ------6 and Their Care ------7 Washing and Pillows ------8 Making a Protector ------9 How to Prepare Raw Wool for Bedding ------9 Points to Consider in Making Q uilts ------12 Selecting Linen and Blankets ------13 Care of the Bed ------14 Daily Care of Bed ------15 References ------16

2 Bedding And Its Care By Alice Sundquist Extension Specialist in Clothing and Textiles

Bedding will give long service if it is carefully chosen and given good care. , pillows, blankets and re­ ceive hard wear and are not easily cleaned. Simple protectors which can be laundered frequently can be purchased or made for these articles. Care of the Mattress Mattresses should be aired, beaten, and sunned every few months. This keeps the cotton fluffy and insures a soft and com­ fortable bed. The mattress must be turned from end to end and from side to side frequently. It is advisable to give the mattress a thorough beating on both sides each time it is turned. Protecting the Mattress A spring cover, mattress slip cover, and a mattress pad will keep a mattress clean. A new mattress should not be used on top of or underneath another mattress. The cotton will lose its fluffiness. A Cover for the Springs A cover for coil bed springs is excellent insurance for the long life of a mattress. It will protect the mattress from rust stains caused by the springs; it will protect the mattress from tears on rough edges of the springs; it will largely eliminate the collection of dust from the floor, making the springs easier to clean; it will make the bed warmer in the winter, since the cold air from the flo or will be cut off; and it will give the bed a more atailored" appearance. Material fo r a spring cover is not expensive. Six-ounce cotton ticking makes a good cover, as does other material which is woven closely enough to be practically dustproof. Closely woven feed or seed sacks or used canvas may be used satisfactorily when avail­ able. I n addition to t he material for the cover, tape w ill also be needed, to be used in tying the center portion of the cover to the springs. Two yards of tape will be needed. This amount will be suf­ ficient fo r eight ties spaced six inches apart at the opening. 3 Dimensions of most coil springs are 52" x 730" x 5)1;2". It is best to fit the springs cover, over the springs as it is made to make certain it is the right size. The portion of the cover shown in Figure 1 laps over the top of the springs about 16 inches. Corn­ ers are then mitered, and an open­ ing left so that the cover may be slipped off. Either a zipper about 42" long or eight tape ties may be used in closing this opening.

Thp e tie& or z.ipper Fig. 1-Top view of springs cover.

Figure 2 shows the center piece to be inserted in the square opening shown in Fig. 1. This piece should be about two inches wider and two inches longer than the vacant square, so that the en­ tire springs will be covered. The ties are to be attached to the springs to prevent the insert from sliding. Since the two portions of the cover are not attached to each other, the cover will "give" with the springs when they are bear-· ing weight.

Fig. 2-Piece to be inserted in center of cover.

4 " r------, I I I I I I I Figure 3 shows how the I I springs cover will look after the I I piece has been inserted in the cen­ I I ter. Dotted lines show how the I I excess width and length will be I I I I overlapped by the larger covering. I - .. J ---- t-- .t- ~ Fig. 3-Center piece mserted m top of springs" cover. It extends about two inches under edge of cover and ties loosely to springs. Top view. I'\ Figure 4 shows how the un­ derside of the springs cover will look, with the zipper fastening or tie extending about 16" under the mattress. If cotton tapes are used, eight will be required, spaced about six inches apart.

A Mattress Cover A mattress cover is simply a slip cover or case made to fit over a mattress. Light weight cotton is recommended as the best mat­ '------'~------~~ erial for a mattress cover. This Fig. 4-Bottom view of springs cover. can be washed easily and often. Unless material already on hand, such as old sheets or flour sacks, can be used there is little difference in the cost of buying a mattress cover ready made and buying material for making a cover. If material is purchased for making a cover, buy sheeting 5 (unbleached) which is just the width of the mattress. Shrink new rp.aterial before cutting. Buy enough material to provide for the top and bottom of the mattress and for the boxing and an eight-inch flap at one end. Five yards of 54-inch material will make a mattress cover for a double mattress 54" x 74". Allow generous seams in mak­ ing the mattress cover. Extra strength and a well-tailored appear­ ance can be gained by binding the seams with bias binding or they may be french seamed making the seam on the outside. The latter method is not as costly. Make the boxing the depth of the mattress on both sides and on one end. On the other end leave an extra eight inches of mat­ erial to serve as a flap which can be buttoned over the end of the mattress. Rubber buttons are preferable for this purpose, and from i' six to eight are needed. (Rubber buttons from discarded undergar­ ments may be used.) With this construction, the mattress cover can be unbuttoned and pulled off the mattress just as a pillow case is removed. The mattress cover should fit more snugly than the spring cover, be­ cause there is not as much "give" to a mattress as to coil springs; it should fit tightly enough so 0 ~t 0 0 0 .. 0 that there will be no bagginess, , yet loosely enough so that it can be slipped off and on with ease. Fig. 5-A mattress cover.

A Mattress Pad A mattress pad is placed over the covered mattress and under the bottom sheet." It protects the mattress from stains and body perspiration. The pad can be bought at a reasonable price or can be made at home from an old or cut down to fit · the mattress and with the edges neatly bound. A pad can be made using a material such as unbleached muslin or flour sacks and a layer of cotton. Mattress pads should come just to the edges of 6 the mattress. They should be _l I rounded on the corners and about I I I the thickness of a cotton quilt. From a pound to a pound and I I I l 1 I - one-half of dry, clean, long staple 11 2 x 2."qui~ted I squares cotton is needed for a mattress · I I I I I I - pad. The pad should be quilted I I f- - r- -- sufficiently to hold the cotton in place when laundered; when prac­ tical the pad may be quilted on a ,_.~ sewing machine. See Figure 6. I I It may be quilted in straight or It ,_ diagonal lines which make ap­ proximately two inch squares . •~ 1-r-- liT I The mattress pad should be bound I w ith a bias binding. Whip the Fig. 6-A mattress pad. binding down by hand on t he wrong side of t he pad Pillows and Their Care Feathers of different types, down, and kapok are used fo r fill­ ing pillows. T he type and quality of feathers used make a g reat difference in the quality of pillows made from t hem. All down (goose or duck) makes the lightest, softest, fluffiest, and most lux urious pillows. Down in combination w ith waterfowl feathers (goose preferable to duck) makes an excellent pillow (75 per cent down and 25 per cent small white goose feathers) . A good pillow is one filled with 30 per cent down and 70 per cent quali ty goose fe athers. One hundred per cent goose feathers rate next. D uck feathers are not quite so strong, elastic, or fluffy as goose feathers. Chicken and turkey feathers are lower in quality. Kapok is a vegetable fib er. It is light and flu ffy, but it deter­ iorates rather quickly and forms into wads. It is a satisfactory pillow fi lling only fo r persons who are allergic to feathers. A down pillow, size 21 inches x 27 inches, should w eigh about 1 ~ pounds; filled w ith goose feathers, about 2 ~ pounds; and with chicken feathers, about 3 ~ pounds. A good pillow remains full and plump when supported on the palm of the hand. If it collapses and hangs limp and life less, the 7 feathers are either worn; in need of washing; or the pillow is not sufficiently fi lled.

Washing Blankets and Pillows (Taken from "Efficient Laundry Methods" by Esther Pond, Extension Economist in Home Management, State College of Washington.) Blankets should be washed before they become very dirty. Choose a clear, breezy but not windy day so the blankets will dry quickly. Use a neutral soap which is thoroughly dissolved and a two- to three-inch suds formed on the water. The water must be soft. Never rub the soap on fabric. "V\Tash one at a time. Shake it out as it is inserted in the water. Operate the washing ma­ chine about three minutes. Watch blanket to prevent its wrapping and pulling. If it was badly soiled it may be necessary to put it through a second suds. Rinse two or three times in the same temp­ erature of water, until the water remains clear. If rinsed in the machine, run only one minute for each rinsing. Comforts can be washed by the same method except that instead of being wrung through the wringer between each rinsing they will need to be placed over a narrow board laid across the ·top of the tub and al- lowed to drip well before being handled. · To make the blankets fluffy, shake them occasionally as they hang on the line. Also move the fold to prevent a crease where they hang on the line. Pillows can be washed in the same way as blankets. It is ad­ visable to divide them into two flour sacks before washing. To do this rip a six-inch opening in one end of the pillow. Make a similar opening in a flour sack and sew the two openings together. · The feathers can be shaken from one container to the other without losing any. For washing, choose a clear, breezy day when the temperature is not too high. While drying, shake and beat from time to time to get the air through them. When they are thoroughly dry, empty them back into the washed pillow tick in the same way they were taken from it.

8 Making a Pillow Protector Pillow protectors should be made of a soft pliable material which will not interfere with the softness and smoothness of the Tpillow. The general method of making them is the same as that for pillow slips. The protector should be an inch and a half to 2 inches larger around than the pil­ 9 ... .0 ... 9 . . ..C? .. 9 .. . Q. low and just long enough to cover the pillow, folding over about 2 inches to button neatly, Fig. 7-A pillow protector. see Fig. 7. This forms a case for the pillow. The number of buttons used depends upon the width of the pillow. Usually six are sufficient and they should be small. A general allowance should be made for hems.

H ow to Prepare Raw Wool at Home for Bedding Raw wool can be scoured (cleaned) and carded at home for comforters and mattresses. However, the process requires care and patience and should be undertaken only if large quantities of soft water are available and when considerable time can be given to the work. Under such conditions, if the wool is on hand and cannot be sold to advantage, this is often an economical and good way to use it. The best results are obtained if only small amounts of wool are worked with at one time. About 3 pounds of washed and carded wool are needed for a medium-sized comforter, and 20 to 50 pounds for a mattress. Com­ forts containing a thin layer of wool are also useful. They flre warm, light in weight, and can often be used in place of blankets. When calculating the amount of raw wool needed for any purpose, assume that it will be reduced 45 to 65 per cent in weight by the scouring and carding. PREPARATION FOR SCOURING. A broad wooden paddle with several holes bored in it is help­ ful in handling wet wool. Clean boards put together in the sun and covered with clean sheets or other white cloth make a good drying platform. Faster drying is obtained if the boards are placed 9 two or three inches apart on wooden horses so au· can circulate through the wool. Make a stock soap solution by heating slowly one pound of sal-soda and two pounds of a good neutral soap (not strong laundry soap) in 2 gallons of soft water, and filling up to 5 gallons. At least three suds and several rinses will be needed to clean the wool. A rrange wash tubs or large pails and a clothes v. ringer so that the wool can be passed readily from one to the other. If it is possible to keep the water warm, make three tubs of suds be­ fore beginning to wash the wool. For the first suds, dilute one to two quarts of the stock soap solution w ith 10 gallons of water. This suds should be hot enough to be uncomfortable but bearable to the hand (about 120° F.). The second and third suds should be a little cooler ( llOo - 120° F.) and contain less soap, depending on the con­ dition of the wool. If ordinary washing soda or tri-sodium phosphate is used make a solution of 8 ounces washing soda and 16 ounces of soap flakes for each 10 gallons of water. 1st tub - 6 gal. solution as above. 2nd tub - 6 gal. solution as above. 3rd tub - 6 gal, solution ,0 strength of 1 and 2. 4th tub - 6 gal. softened rinse water. 5th tub - 6 gal. softened rinse water. 6th tub - 6 gal. softened rinse water. A lways soften water 10 minutes before adding soap; and a lways have water warm before adding softener. Soften rinse water by adding scouring solution until curd ceases to form and there is a slight fo am. SCOURING. · Select only the cleanest of the fleece. Pick it apart, shaking out all the dirt possible. Remove all tags and dung locks. Wool that is stained will not scour white. Put only a small quantity of wool into the suds at a time, divid­ ing the wool into small bits as it is added. This cleans the wool thoroughly and lessens the chances of matting the fibers, which in turn shortens the time of drying and reduces the amount of carding necessary. The best results are obtained if about six gal·· Ions of suds are used for each pound of raw wool. A lways han,ile 10 the wet wool with the paddle. Avoid squeezmg or stirring the w ool while in the w ashing or rinsing solutions, as this causes the w ool to mat and felt together. F or the same reason, do not use a washing machine. Never crowd the w ool in the tubs. Scour the w ool in several lots, if necessary, rather than damage it in clea-ning . Keep the wool below the surface until it is thoroughly soaked with suds. Allow it to stand in the suds for about 10 minutes without stirring. Lift up small amounts, let the w ater drain out, and put the wool through a clothes wringer. If the w ool is wrapped in a piece of cheesecloth or other open mesh cloth, it will not tangle in the wringer. Repeat this process in the second and third suds. A fourth suds may be necessary. Rinse several times in clear water of the same temperature as the last suds (110° - 120° F.), handling the wool as before. Be sure every trace of soap is removed. Spread thinly on the drying boards and dry thoroughly before using. Wool in the solutions must be handled gently at all times to prevent felting. Let it soak, and once it is under the water, let it alone. Lift it out gently and squeeze instead of twisting. DO NOT TWIST, POUND, OR RUB THE WOOL, as it will felt. A fter the wool has gone through the six solutions, it should be spread out in a shady- well-ventilated place to dry. Small lots may be dried on clean cloths or on screens. CA TIONS. (Taken from "Scouring Wool," Wyoming Extension Service.) 1. Do not attempt to scour wool in a washing machine or with a suction plunger. 2. Do not rub or pound wool. Do not twist wool, but handle gently and squeeze out surplus water. 3. Do not rub the wool with a cake of soap. 4. Always run the wool through the wringer before changing tubs. 5. Do not soak wool for longer than ten minutes in any solu­ tion, except in soaking out heavy locks in cold or warm water. 6. Never try to scour too large batches. 7. Change solutions frequently if clean wool 1s expected. 11 8. Always maintain proper temperatures-120°F. in first scour­ ing solution, and llOo - 120°F. in second and third suds and in rins­ ing solutions. 9. If washing soda is used, run through a small batch first to test the strength of the solution. If the tips of the fibers turn brownish yellow, the solution is too strong and must be diluted. (Textile soda will not burn the fiber.) CARDING. Use wool cards, which may be bought from mail order houses for about $1 per pair, to straighten out the washed wool and to re­ move the smaller bits of chaff and other foreign matter. Carding wool by ha11d is a slow process. A few mills do "custom carding" at a reasonable .cost and return the straightened fibers in large sheets. TO MAKE vVOOL BATTS FOR COMFORTERS For comforters, spread the washed and carded wool on the floor on a paper 18 inches wide and as long as the desired length of the comforter. Arrange a layer of wool 1 or 2 inches thick on the paper, cover with paper and repeat until there are four layers. Place a clean board on top 18 inches wide and the length of the layers of wool. Weight down with 200 pounds or more and press 2 or 3 days. Points to Consider in Making 1. The secret of success in piecing a quilt is: a. Accuracy in cutting individual pieces. b. Uniformity of seams in sewing together. 2. Use sandpaper or cardboard for the pattern, as an aid to accuracy. 3. Patterns must be true. 4. Always press material before cutting out blocks as cloth must be smooth to cut accurately. 5. Use only good materials for quilt making. The use of firmly woven material is good economy. It is sleazy materials, unreliable dyes and starched cloth which prove expensive. 6. Bind with same material as quilt. Ready made tape is not good for · quits as it does not have high wearing quality. 7. A mount for binding. One yard usually required for a plain 12 quilt. This cuts orr true bias into strips 1,0 inches wide. Allow 1,0 yards for binding scalloped edge quilts. Comfort or Blanket Protector Percale, muslin, dimity, outside edges of old sheets, or any suitable material may be used to make a ~hin protector for com­ forts or blankets. The piece of material should be as long as the width of the blankets and about a yard wide or less. Double lengthwise and sew the ends together. Make a hem of desired width. This fo rms a slip cover which may be removed for frequent laundering. Tack or slip stitch the protector to the comfort or use small size safety pins.

SELECTING BED LINEN AND BLANKETS Sheets Sheets may be purchased ready made or sheeting may be pur­ chased and sheets made at home. There is no appreciable difference in cost. "Torn size before hemming" on the label means that each sheet is torn by hand from the bolts of cloth. This insures a straight edge. A sheet 90 inches wide and 108 inches long before hemming is the most satisfactory size for a double bed. To determine width for other size beds of same length, plan for the sheet to hang over the edge of the mattress 12 inches or more. A three-inch hem at both ends makes it possible to use either end for the top. Size of Blankets Blankets should be long enough to tuck in at least 12 inches at the foot of the bed and wide enough to hang at least 12 inches over the edges of the bed. It is necessary to have plenty of blanket over the edges of the bed to keep out the cold air while sleeping. Pillowcases The common torn sizes for pillowcases before hemming are 42 x 36 inches and 42 x 38Yz inches for a 20 x 27 inch pillow, and 45 x 36 inches and 45 x 38,0 inches for a 22 x 28 inch pillow. It is always wise to have the case a little larger around than the pillow. Two inches larger is recommended. For instance, a pillow 20 inches wide is 40 inches around; therefore, it should have a 42- inch case. The width is measured around pillow tubing. 13 (For additional information on buying sheets, blankets and pillowcases, ask your County Extension Service for the free Farm­ ers' .B ulletin No. 1765 entitled, "Guides for Buying Sheets, Blankets, and Bath Towels".) Bedspreads Generous sizes, substantial edge finishes, well-made seams, and good fabrics are desirable in a bedspread. Sizes for a double bed vary from 80 to 90 inches in width and 90 to 108 inches in length. The 90-inch length does not allow for covering the pillows. A size 90 inches wide by 108 inches long proves very satisfactory for a double bed, proving a generous tuck in and allowing for cover­ ing the pillows. (For additional information on buying bedspreads ask your County Extension Service for the free Extension Bulletin No. 211 entitled, "Buying Bedspreads".)

Care of the Bed (Adapted from "First Year-4-H Club Home Efficiency Pro­ ject" by Esther Pond, Home Management Specialist) Weekly Care All bedding should be removed at least once a week. While the mattress is airing, the springs and bedspread can be dusted. The mattress should be beaten and turned each week. (Occasional sunning has already been mentioned.) Turn the mattress from end to end and from side to side to make sure the mattress wears evenly all over. Clean sheets should be put on the beds once a week. Making the Bed 1. Place the mattress pad on the mattress. 2. Lay the lower sheet, tuck under mattress six to nine inches at the head of the bed. 3. Miter the co~ner at the head of the bed. To do this, grasp the edge of the sheet about two feet from the corner. Lift up to form a triangle (the edge of the sheet is at right angles to the mattress). Laying the triangle back on top of the bed, tuck the base of the triangle under the mattress. N:ow drop the triangle and tuck under. This leaves a neat diagonal fold which won't pull out.

14 4. Miter the corner at the foot of the bed (on the same side of the bed), then the foot at the other side of bed, and finish with the corner at the head of the bed. Some people learn to make all of one side of the bed before they go around to complete the opposite side. This saYes steps and time. The sheet should fit snugly and smoothly. 5. Place the upper sheet, right side down, allowing six inche~ longer than the mattress at the head of the bed for turning back over the blankets. 6. Place the blankets, one at a time, laying the head of the blanket 12 inches from the head of the bed. Turn top sheet back o\·er the blankets. 7. Tuck the top sheet and blankets under together at the foot of the bed. At each corner of the foot of the bed, make the first step in mitering corners. Do not carry mitering of covers any farther; let the upper sheet and blankets hang loose at the sides of the bed. It is warmer this way. 8. Place the spread, folding back enough at the head of the bed to cover the pillows. 9. Lay the pillows on the bed to pull the pillow cases over them. Do not put pillows under chin or between teeth. Lay pil­ lows in place. Pull the spread over them. 10. Pull spread tight and tuck in at foot of bed (unless the bed has open end, such as does an iron bed; in this case, let end of spread hang loose.) 11. At each side of the foot of bed, make the first step of the mitered corner to give a neat corner. Pull the under part of the tucked in part so that it forms a straight line up and down at the foot of the bed.

Daily Care of Bed: 1. At night fold spread neatly over foot of bed to prevent wrinkles. 2. In the morning smooth out lower sheet. 3. Pull upper sheet and blankets into place. 4. Replace spread. 5. Pat up pillows and replace bedspread over them. 15 Pest Control: Occasionally there is a need for information on the control of insects associated with mattresses and bedding, such as: bedbugs, carpet beetles, and clothes moths. Information concerning the con­ trol of such pests may be obtained from circulars available at the County Extension Service Office. References Protect Your Bed-by Mrs. Bernice Claytor, Extension Specialist in Home Improvement MS-470. Issued by the Extension Ser­ vice, Agriculture and Mechanics Arts College of Texas. Efficient Laundry Methods-Extension Bulletin 243. First Year-4-H Home Efficiency Project-H.M.29, by Esther Pond, Home Management Specialist. Issued by the Extension Service, State College of Washington.

Published and distributed In furtherance of the Act of May 8, 1914, by the State College of Washington, Extension Service. F. E. Balmer, Director, and U. S. Department of Agriculture cooperating.

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