Bedding and Its Care

Extension Bulletin 262 (Revised) August, 1942 BEDDING AND ITS CARE

EXTENSION SERVICE State College of Washington Pullman Washington Table of Contents Page Care of the Mattress ------3 Protecting the Mattress ------.------3 A CoYer for the Springs ------:'. ______3 Repairing Bedstead and Springs ------5 A Mattress Cover ______:______6 A Mattress Pad ------7 Mattress Repair ------8 Reconditioning Spring Filled j\/[attresses ------9 Pillows and Their Care ------9 Home Care of Feathers ------10 Vv ashing Blankets and Pillows ------11 Washing Quilts and Comforters ------12 Making a Pillow Protector ------··:·------12 How to Prepare Raw Wool for Bedding------13 .Points to Consider in Making Quilts ------16 Comfort or Blanket Protector ------16 Directions For Making A Down Puff ------17 Selecting Bed Linen and Blankets ------20 Care of the Bed ------22 Pest Control ------23 References ------23

2 Bedding And Its Care By Alice Sundquist Extension Specialist in Clothing and Textiles

Bedding will give long service if it is carefully chosen and given good care. Mattresses, pillows, blankets and comforters re ceive hard wear and are not easily cleaned. Simple protectors which can be laundered frequently can be purchased or made for these articles. CARE OF THE MATTRESS Mattresses should be aired, beaten, and sunned every few months. This keeps the cotton fluffy and insures a soft and com- fortable bed. . The mattress must be turned from end to end and from side to side frequently. It is advisable to give the mattress a thorough beating on both sides each time it is turned. Protecting the Mattress A spring cover, mattress slip cover, and a mattress pad will keep a mattress clean. A new mattress should not be used on top of or underneath another mattress. The cotton will lose its fluffiness. A Cover for the Springs A cover for coil bed springs is excellent insurance for the long life of a mattress. It will protect the mattress from rust stains caused by the springs; it will pr.otect the mattress from tears on rough edges of the springs; it. will largely eliminate the collection of dust from the floor, making the springs easier to clean; it will make the bed warmer in the winter, since the cold air from the floor will be cut off; and it wili give the bed a more "tailored" appearance. Material for a spring cover is not expensive. Six-ounce cotton ticking makes a good cover, as does other material which is woven closely enough to be practically dustproof. Closely woven feed or seed sacks or used canvas may be used satisfactorily when avail able. In addition to the material for the cover, tape will also be needed, to be used in tying the center portion of the cover to the springs. Two yards of_tape will be needed. This amount will be sufficient for eight ties spaced six inches apart at the opening.

3 Dimensions of most coil springs are 52" x 73 0 " x 50 ". It is best to fit the springs cover, over the springs as it is made to make certain it is the right size. The portion of the cover shown in Figure 1 laps over the top of the springs about 16 inches. Corn ers are then mitered, and an open ing left so that the cover may be slipped off. Either a zipper about 42" long or eight tape ties may be used in closing this opening.

Thpe t·,e~ or z.ipper- Fig. r. Top view of springs cover.

Figure 2 shows the center piece to be inserted in the square opening shown in Fig. 1. This piece should be about two inches wider and two inches longer than the vacant square, so that the en tire springs will be covered. The ties are to be attached to the springs to prevent the insert from sliding. Since the two portions of the cover are not attached to each other, the cover will "give" with the springs when they are bear ing weight.

Fig. 2. Piece to be inserted in center of cover.

4 " r------I I I I Figure 3 shows how the I springs cover will look after the I piece has been inserted in the cen I I ter. Dotted lines show how the I excess width and length will be I overlapped by the larger covering. I------~. .~

"Fig . J. Center piece inserted in top ""'of springs cover. It extends about two inches under edge of cover and ties loosely to springs. Top view.

'~· ------'~------~~ Fig. 4· Bottom view of springs cover.

Fig. s. A spring cover partially in place. Figure 4 shows how the underside of the springs cover will look, with the zipper fastening or tie extending about 16" under the mattress. If cotton tapes are used, eight will be required, spaced about six inches apart.

Repairing Bedstead and Springs Check over the bedstead noting all loose joints and think through the best way to eliminate the play causing the creak. It may be that some loose parts can be filled in or built up with plastic wood, or a bolt or screw may need to be tightened or added. There are large corner braces and devices on the market which might be used to brace the frame. E ach frame is an individual problem. Sagging springs are sometimes corrected by tightening wires connecting the coils or by the replacement of coils. If the springs have rusted in places and discolored the mattress, a coat of enamel will prevent further damage.

A Mattress Cover A mattress cover is simply a slip cover or case made to fit over a mattress. Light weight cotton is recommended as the best mater ial for a mattress cover. This can be washed easily and often. Unless material already on hand, such as old sheets or flour sacks, can be used there is little difference in the cost of buying a mattress cover ready made and buying material for making a cover. If material is purchased for making a cover, buy sheeting (unbleached) which is just the width of the mattress. Shrink new material before cutting. Buy enough material to provide for the top and bottom of the mattress and for the boxing and an eight-inch flap at one end. Five yards of 54-inch material will make a mattress cover for a double bed size mattress 54" x 74". Allow generous seams in mak ing the mattress cover. Extra strength and a well-tailored appear ance can be gained by binding the seams with bias binding or they may be french seamed making the seam on the outside. The latter method is not as costly. Make the boxing the depth of the mattress on both sides and on one end. On the other end leave an extra eight inches of mat erial to serve as a flap which can be buttoned over the end of the mattress. Rubber buttons are preferable for this purpose, and from six to eight are needed. (Rubber buttons from discarded undergar ments may be us('d.)

6 With this construction, the mattress cover can be unbuttoned and pulled off the mattress just as a pillow case is removed. The mattress cover should fit more snugly than the spring cover, be cause there is not as much "give" to a mattress as to coil springs; it should fit tightly enough so pi& u1tons '\ that there will be no bagginess, yet loosely enough so that it can 0 ~ t 0 0 0 ~ 0 , be slipped off and on with ease.

~~------~Fig. 6. A mattress cover. ~ A Mattress Pad A mattress pad is placed over the covered mattress and under the bottom sheet. It protects the mattress from stains and body perspiration. The pad can be bought at a reasonable price or can be . made at home from an old quilt or comforter cut down to fit the mattress and with the edges neatly bound. A pad .can be made ' using a material such as unbleached muslin or flour sacks and a layer of cotton. Mattress pads should come just to the edges of the rna ttress. They should be f rounded on the corners and about T l I the thickness of a cotton quilt. I l I I I I From a pound to a pound and I one-half of dry, clean, long staple I l I I - f 11 x2." qui ted' squar~s cotton is needed for a mattress · I I • pad. The pad should be quilted I sufficiently to hold the cotton in I~ t- f-+-- - f-. place when laundered; when prac tical the pad may be quilted on a

f- sewing machine. See F igure 7. T It may be quilted in straight or I T 1- 1-- I diagonal lines which make ap proximately two inch squares. , ~ ~- The mattress pad should be bound tr- l I w ith a bias binding. Whip the Fig. 7. A mattress pad. binding down by hand on the wrong side of t he pad. 7 MATTRESS REPAIR Cotton filled mattresses which have become lumpy can be opened up and reworked but it is a big undertaking for homemak ers. If you plan to have the mattress reworked commercially take it to a reliable factory. Be assured that they will clean and condition your own material and put it back, adding new material if addi tional is needed. Homemakers can prolong the life of their mattresses by keep ing them turned regularly (end to end, and side to side) by sunning and airing frequently, by tufting and by repairing rolled edges promptly. Use strong twine · for mattress repair. A long tufting needle is needed to replace the broken tufting. You want to be sure that the twine will pull up tightly and the knot hold securely. Study the roll edge of your mattress before beginning the repair work and replace the stitches as nearly like those used as possible to keep the edge uniform. Use strong twine and a long darning needle or curved upholster's needle. Keep the cotton pulled up well into the roll to make it firm.

Fig. 8. Springs cover, mattress cover and mattress pad in place.

Perhaps a mattress can be improved by a complete reboxing of edge. If so, do it well so that you will not have repair work to do

8 later. Rip out a little of the original stitching at a time and make • your line of boxing a trifle deeper to avoid the needle holes in the ticking. Consult Extension Bulletin 261-"Making A Cotton 11at tress" for more details on making the roll edge. Reconditioning Spring Filled Mattresses A spring unit made of small springs pocketed in muslin may be repaired at home. Carefully rip a seam in the outer covering and remove the cot ton covered springs. Avoid tearing the cotton felt so that it may be used again. Originally each spring was in a muslin pocket but you may find them in a tangled mass. The springs should be disentangled, re moved from the worn pockets and adjusted if the coils are bent out of shape. The worn pocket should be carefully measured noting carefully the width and height of each. The number of pockets per strip and the number of strips should also be noted. Use a good grade of unbleached muslin for the pockets. For further information on repairing the unit, secure the mime ograph "Repairing Inner Spring Cushions." After sewing the springs into pockets and together in rows, put in two or more lines of diagonal stitching. Turn the unit over and sew other side of springs in the same manner. Replace the cotton felt carefully. Build up corners and worn places with additional cotton, pulling the edges out thin so that the patching will the smooth. Fasten cotton felt by sewing where needed. Repair and clean the old covering or make a new one. If a new one is needed, rip the old one apart, noting carefully how it has been put together. Press the old pieces and use them for a pattern. It is a little difficult to put the mattress back into the covering but persistent compressing, pushing and pulling puts it back in place. Beat the mattress if it does not seem smooth. Insert a darning needle in stubborn bulges and spread the cotton underneath. A corner or side may need to be built up some with additional cotton carefully placed. Pillows and Their Care Feathers of different types, down, and kapok are used for fill ing pillows. The type and quality of feathers used make a great difference in the quality of pillows made from them. 9 All down (goose or duck) makes the lightest, softest, fluffiest, and most luxurious pillows. Down in combination with waterfowl feathers (goose preferable to duck) makes an excellent pillow (75 per cent down and 25 per cent small white goose feathers). A good pillow is one filled with 30 per cent down and 70 per cent quality goose feathers. One hundred per cent goose feathers rate next. Duck feathers are not .quite so strong, elastic, or fluffy as goose feathers. Chicken and turkey feathers are lower in quality. Kapok is a vegetable fiber. It is light and fluffy, but it deter iorates rather quickly and forms into wads. It is a satisfactory pillow filling only for persons who are allergic to feathers. A down pillow, size 21 inches x 27 inches, should weigh about 1~ pounds; filled with goose feathers, about 2_0 pounds; and with chicken feathers, about 3_0 pounds. A good pillow remains full and plump when supported on the palm of the hand. If it collapses and hangs limp and lifeless, the feathers are either worn, in need of washing, or the pillow is not sufficiently filled. The pillow ticking should be so closely woven that it is feather proof, down proof, and dust proof. Eight-ounce government stan dard, plain "dyed in the yarn", blue and white woven striped ticking is usually the most satisfactory. For more information on pillows consult Extension Bulletin 273 "Better Buying - Pillows."

Home Care of Feathers In collecting feathers the down and soft feathers should be kept separate from the wing and tail feathers. The animal heat and dampness should be dried out of all feathers so that they will keep without becoming moldy. In cleaning feathers for home use in pil lows, mattr:esses, etc., the oil from the feathers is first removed by steeping in lime water. Prepare a quantity of lime water in the following manner: Mix 1 pound quick-lime in each gallon of water required and let stand until undissolved lime is precipitated to the bottom of the tub or pan; then pour off the clear liquid for use. (When mixing avoid close contact with the mixture. It will bubble and become hot. Don't touch quicklime with wet hands.) The number of gal lons to be prepared will depend upon the quantity of feathers to be cleaned. Put the feathers in a clean tub, pour lime water on them and stir well until they all sink to the bottom. There should be 10 enough lime water to cover them to a depth of about 3 inches. Let them stand in this for 3 or 4 days; then take them out, dFain in a sieve, and afterwards wash well and rinse in clean water. Dry on a net, shaking the net occasionally or dry in sacks of thin material. To clean feathers from dirt alone they are washed with soap and warm water and rinsed in warm water, as described above. After feathers are dried they should be stored until used in open burlap sacks which are hung up and not piled against each other. Examine the feathers occasionally to see if there are any moths present. Washing Blankets and Pillows (Taken from "Efficient Laundry Methods" by Esther Pond, Extension Economist in Home Management, State College of Washington.) Blankets should be washed before they become very (•~irty. Choose a clear, breezy but not windy day so the blankets will dry quickly. Use a neutral soap which is thoroughly dissolved and a two- to three-inch suds formed on the water. The water must be soft. Never rub the soap on the fabric. Wash one blanket at a time. Shake it out as it is inserted in the water. Operate the washilng ma chine about three minutes. Watch blanket to prevent it wrapping and pulling. If it was badly soiled it may be necessary to put it through· a second suds. Rinse two or three times in the same temp erature of water, until the water remains clear. If rinsed in the machine, run only one minute for each rinsing. To make the blankets fluffy, shake them occasionally as they hang on the line. Also move the fold to prevent a crease where they hang on the line. If the blanket is hung over two lines rather than one the blanket is not apt to weaken through the center. Select a warm airy day for the washing. After drying use a soft brush to raise the nap. Pillows can be washed in the same way as blankets. H is ad visable to divide them into two flour sacks before washing. To do this rip a six-inch opening in one end of the pillow. Make a similar opening in a flour sack and sew the two openings together. The feathers can be shaken from one container to the other without los ing any. For washing, choose a clear, breezy day when the temperature is not too high. \Vhile drying, shake and beat from time to time to get the air through them. When they are thoroughly dry, empty

11 them back into the washed pillow tick in the same way they were taken from it. Washing Quilts and Comforters Woolen quilts and comforters are more difficult to launder. The process however is the same as directed for blankets. Use an abund ance of water. Quilts and comforters require frequent sunning to keep them fluffy. Repeated washings tend to pack the filling. Tied comforters may have the cover removed and washed while the batt is aired and sunned thoroughly. Cotton comforters and quilts require a good deal of sunning and airing to keep them fluffy. Cotton quilts will need to be washed occasionally in order to keep them clean. To avoid too much pack ing and shifting of the filling. fold the comforter or quilt to fit the tub and completely cover with water. Press and knead the quilt in this soapy water being careful to keep the filling from wadding up. Remove and prepare second wash water. Change the fold of the quilt and repeat the washing process. Rinse well. In place of wringing place the guilt o'er narrow boards laid across the top of the tub and allow to drip well before handling. Spread on a flat surface outside to dry. The covers on cotton comforters may be removed and washed while the batt is given a good sunning and airing outdoors in the warm sunshine. Place sheets oyer and under the batt and beat with switches to refluff the cotton batt before it is placed back in the cover and tied. Making a Pillo.w Protector A pillowcase is not thick enough to protect the pillow from natural oils of the skin and from other kinds of soil. It is not easy to launder the pillow itself, there fore, care needs to be taken to prevent its becoming soiled. The cover also prevents the striped ticking from showing through the 1~ pillowcase. ~ Pillow protectors should be made of a soft pliable material I" which will not interfere with the softness and smoothness of the 9... .Q . .. 9 ....Q .• P •. • Q. ~ 1pillow. Old sheets, pillowcases or ct"---•aotl muslin may do. The general me- Fig. 9· A pillow protector. thod of making them is the same as that for pillow slips. The pro- 12 tector should be an inch and a half to 2 inches larger around than the pillow and just long enough to cover the pillow, folding over about 2 inches to button neatly, see Fig. 9. This forms a case for the pillow that slips on and off easily but is smaller than the pillow case to prevent wrinkles. The number of buttons used depends upon the width of the pillow. Usually six are sufficient and they should be small. A generous allowance should be made for hems.

How to Prepare Raw Wool at Home for Bedding Raw wool can be scoured (cleaned) and carded at home for comforters and mattresses. However, the process requires care and patience and should be undertaken only if large quantities of soft water are available and when considerable time can be given to the work. Under such conditions if the wool is on hand and cannot be sold to advantage, this is often an economical and good way to use it. The best results are obtained if only small amounts of wool are worked with at one time. About 3 pounds of washed and carded wool are needed for a medium-sized comforter, and 20 to 50 pounds for a mattress. Com forts containing a thin layer of wool are also useful. They are warm, light in weight, and can often be used in place of blankets. When calculating the amount of raw wool needed for any purpose, assume that it will be reduced 45 to 65 per cent in weight by the scouring and carding.

Preparation for Scouring A broad wooden paddle with several holes bored in it is help: ful in handling wet wool. Clean boards put together in the sun and covered with clean sheets or other white cloth make a good drying platform. Faster drying is obtained if the boards are placed two or three inches apart on wooden horses so ·air can circulate through the wool. Scouring Solution I. Make a stock soap solution by heating slowly one pound of sal-soda (washing soda) and two pounds of a neutral soap (not strong laundry soap) in 2 gallons of soft water, and filling up to 5 gallons. At least three suds and several rinses will be needed to clean the wool. Arrange wash tubs or large pails and a clothes wringer so that the. wool can be passed readily from one to the other. If it is possible to keep the water warm, make three tubs of suds be fore beginning to wash the wool. For the first suds, dilute one to two quarts of the stock soap solution with 10 gallons of water. This 13 suds should be hot but bearable to the hand (about 120° F.). The second and third suds should be a little cooler (llOo - 120°F.) and contain less soap, depending on the condition of the wool. Scouring Solution II. If trisodium phosphate is used: (Wyoming Extension Service). Solution - 1st Tub - 6 gal. warm water - 7 oz. tri-sodium phosphate Solution -2nd Tub - 6 gal. warm water - 7 oz. tri-sodium phosphate - 5 oz. soap Solution - 3rd Tub - 6 gal. warm water - 7 oz. tri-sodium phosphate - 5 oz. soap Solution - 4th Tub - 6 gal. warm water - 3 oz. tri-sodium phosphate Solution - 5th Tub - 6 gal. warm water - 3 oz. tri-sodium phosphate . Solution - 6th Tub - 6 gal. warm water - 3 oz. tri-sodium phosphate Scouring Solution III. If ordinary washing soda is used: Make solution of 8 oz. washing soda and 16 oz. of soap flakes for each 10 gallons of water. 1st Tub - 6 gal. Solution as above 2nd Tub - 6 gal. Solution as above 3rd Tub - 6 gal. Solution _0 strength of 1 4th Tub - 6 gal. Softened Rinse Water 5th Tub - 6 gal. Softened Rinse Water 6th Tub - 6 gal. Softened Rinse Water Always soften water 10 minutes before adding soap, and always have water warm before adding softener. Pick the wool apart, shaking out all the dirt possible. Remove all tags and dung locks. Wool that is stained will not scour white. Put only a small quantity of wool into the suds at a time, dividing the wool into small bits as you add it. This cleans the wool thoroughly and lessens the chances of matting the fibers, which in turn shortens the time of drying and reduces the amount of carding necessary. The best results are obtained if about six gal lons of suds are used for each pound of raw wool. Always handle the wet wool with the paddle. Avoid squeezing or stirring the wool while in the washing or rinsing solutions, as this causes the wool to mat and felt together. For the same reason, do not use a wash ing machine. Never crowd the wool in the tubs. Scour the wool in several lots, if necessary, rather than damage it in cleaning. Keep the wool below the surface until it is thoroughly soaked with suds. Allow it to stand in the suds for about 10 minutes, without stirring. Lift up small amounts, let the water drain out, 14 and put the wool through a clothes wringer. If the wool is wrapped in a piece of cheesecloth or other open mesh cloth, it will not tangle in the wringer. Repeat this process in the second and third suds. A fourth suds may be necessary. Rinse seyeral times in clear water of the same temperature as the last suds (110° - 120°F.), handling the wool as before. Be sure every trace of soap is removed. Wool in the solutions must be handled gently at all times to prevent felting. Let it soak, and once it is under the water, let it alone. Lift it out gently and squeeze instead of twisting. DO NOT TWIST, POUND, OR RUB THE WOOL, as it will felt. After the wool has gone through the six solutions, it should be spread out in a shady, well ventilated place to dry. Small lots may be dried on clean cloths or on screens. Cautions. (Taken from "Scouring Wool," Wyoming Extension Services.) 1. Do not attempt to scour wool in a washing machine or with a suction plunger. 2. Do not rub or pound wool. Do not twist the wool, but handle gently and squeeze out surplus water. 3. Do not rub the wool with a cake of soap. 4. Always run the wool through the wringer before changing tubs. 5. Do not soak wool for longer than ten minutes in any solution, except in soaking out heavy locks in cold or warm water. 6. Never try to scour too large batches. 7. Change solutions frequently if clean wool is expected. 8. Always maintain proper temperatures-120°F. in first scour ing solution, and 110° - 120°F. in second and third suds and in rins ing solutions. 9. If washing soda is used, run through a small batch first to test the strength of the solution. If the tips of the fibers turn brownish yellow, the solution is too strong and must be diluted. (Textile soda will not burn the fiber.) Carding Use wool cards (No. 8 wool cards) which may be bought from mail order houses for about $1 per pair, to straighten out the washed wool and to remoye the smaller bits of chaff and other foreign matter. Carding makes the wool soft and fluffy and it is ready for 15 making into comforts. The carded wool is in a rectangular shape when it is taken off the cards. Arrange the sections on a cheese cloth (or other thin material) as large as the size of the comforter. Starting from one side, place one section next to the side and pro gress placing sections across the cheesecloth so that they overlap - the same principle as shingling a roof. When the entire surface is covered with wool cover with another piece of cheesecloth. This makes a covered matt which should have the edges whipped to gether. Tack or quilt through the cheesecloth cover and wool, to hold the wool in place. Make a second cover of pretty washable cotton material. The outer cover can be taken off and washed when necessary. The wool filling will last for years. It may be washed when it becomes soiled. The outer cover should be sewed and tied to the batt in order to keep it in place. Points to Consider in Making Quilts 1. The secret of success in piecing a quilt is: a. Accuracy in cutting individual pieces. b. Uniformity of seams in sewing together. 2: Use sandpaper or cardboard for the pattern, as an aid to accuracy. 3. Patterns must be true. 4. Always press material before cutting out blocks as cloth must be smooth to cut accurately. 5. Use only good materials for quilt making. The use of firmly woven material is good economy. It is sleazy materials, unreliable dyes and starched cloth which prove expensive. 6. Bind with same material as quilt. Ready made tape is not good for quilts as it does not have high wearing quality. 7. Amount for binding. One yard usually required for a plain quilt. This cuts on true bias into strips 10 inches wide. Allow 10 yards for binding scalloped edge quilts. Comfort or Blanket Protector Percale, muslin, dimity, outside edges of old sheets, or any suitable material may be used to make a thin protector for com forts or blankets. The piece of material should be as long as the width of the blankets and about a yard wide or less. Double length wise and sew the ends together. Make a hem of desired width. This forms a slip cover which may be removed for frequent laundering. Tack or slip stitch the protector to the comfort or use small size safety pins. 16 Directions for Making a Down Puff Four pounds of down make a thick, warm puff of double bed size (70 x 88 inches) and two pounds a thin, light quilt for a throw or for mild weather use. The quality of down largely governs the amount required for a good puff. It takes less of a good quality down which contains few feathers than it does when the down is about one-third or one-half feathers. Feathers or down should be thoroughly cleaned and sunned. (See directions for cleaning and washing feathers and feather pil low.s). Feathers may be destemmed commercially. Make sure the quills are actually removed. If they are just broken up, it will mean more sharp ends to work through the comfort material. Upholsterers' pins come in 3-, 4-, or 5-inch lengths and some times can be borrowed or bought from a neighborhood shop. Their use makes the pinning a little easier but ordinary dressmakers' pins can be used if the others are not available. Sometimes a neighbor hood upholster can be found to do the stitching after the puff is pinned and ready to stitch. Use upholsterers' down-proof French ticking or guaranteed down-proof sateen for the cover. Ten yards of 36-inch material is cut into 4 equal lengths, 20 yards long. Measure selvage edges to be sure the 4 pieces are the same length. Draw threads to determine a straight cutting line. Join two sections for the top cover and two sections for the bottom cover. To overcome one edge coming out longer than the other in stitching, fold each edge in halves, quarters, and eighths and place a pin at each crease. Pin two lengths together at 2-inch intervals, right sides in, with care that the end, middle, quarter, and eighth pins meet. By careful stitching these two edges may be machine stitched together with a half-inch seam without basting. After stitching press open seams. Next, sew top and bottom together, right sides in, using the same care in pinning the seams. Stitch together with a half-inch seam on both ends and sides. Leave a 6-inch opening (or larger) at each end. Press open seams. Turn right side out. Method I The pattern for the comfort top may first be worked out in small scale on graph paper with each square representing 1 inch. Feathers need plenty of room to fluff so the design which forms tunnels for them should be large and simple. As you plan your de- 17 sign remember also that each penciled line which represents final stitching must have a point where the feathers may be easily in serted. These filling points may be indicated on the graph with a red pencil or dotted line. A fter the top and bottom of the quilt are sewed together, the cover is ready for the design. Spread flat on the table. Thumb tacks at each corner help hold it smooth and straight. Now begin to translate each square on the

o:> graph design to 1 inch on the quilt 5" 5 " 6 " o:> ~(~~ · · top. Use a yardstick and tailor's chalk for marking. If the design Lltj~. shown in Fig. 10 is used start at Tunnel No . ?. .. the edge of the quilt, measure in Tunnel No. 4 6 inches and draw the line for Tunnel No. 3 tunnel No. 1. Pin through both thicknesses of the comfort cover, 70" at corners and along sides and F ig. ro. Design for feather comforts. ends. It is best to stitch each line as drawn because the chalk marks rub off and it is easier to avoid puckers. Measure, mark, pin and stitch lines to make tunnels o. 2, 3, 4 and 5 in the same manner. These are 5 inches wide. Cut a paper pattern for the center design, pin it in place, mark around it with chalk and stitch. The dotted seam .lines on the graph are left open for inserting feathers. Before filling the comfort, divide the feathers in half, by weight, and put them in 2 large sacks. Spread comfort top on a large table; pin and baste center line crosswise; put half of feathers in from one end and the remainder from the other. The center is filled first and ·the dotted lines closed by pinning. Next fill tunnel 5 and pin opening shut, and continue until all tunnels are filled and each opening pinned. Fill the other half in the same way; then shake quilt and pat well before basting the pinned openings. Be sure of an equal distribution of feathers. After the openings are basted, the comfort should be spread on a bed and handled for a few days before the final stitching. It is easier to change feathers from too-full tunnels to ones needing more feathers when only pins or basting thread are involved. When putting feathers into the quilt two very large damp Turk ish towels may help to keep the feathers from flying about. One is

18 placed over the sack containing the feathers; the other over the opening of the quilt. Transfer feathers from the sack to the quilt by hand. Although 3 or 4 pounds of clean, fluffy feathers usually will fill a quilt, it is wise to have 2 extra pounds. If the quilt should not seem full enough, more feathers may be added, the same amount in each end. The less feathers in weight that can be used to fill a quilt, the lighter a cover one will have. To finish the quilt, stitch the openings at the center and along the tunnels on the machine with the same thread used in quilting the design. Long threads should be left at each end of opening, to be threaded in a needle and run inside the quilt. This disguises the opening. Two finishes for the outside edge may be used. Baste the end openings and stitch around the quilt one-fourth inch from the outer edge or close the openings with a blind stitch and leave the outer edge unstitched.

Method II Cut and stitch to make top and bottom covers the desired size. then sew together with French seam leaving 12 or 15 inches open at center of bottom. Rip the same sized opening in the bag containing the down and baste the two openings together. Transfer the down to the puff covers and shake it well away from the seams joining_ the puff and empty down bag. Remove the basting and complete the French seam across the end of the puff cover. Distribute the down evenly and pin where the lines of quilting stitches are planned. The quilting can be done by hand or on a sewing machine. If i~ is to be done on the machine, set the stitch regulator for a very long stitch and use a large needle and a coarse cotton or linen thread. No. 40 cotton for the French ticking. If two tables can be arranged to hold the puff flat at the left and back of the machine the stitching 1s eas1er. The center stitching should be done first. By shifting the down and rolling tightly the part that must pass under the machine head this can be done. After each row of stitching the down must be evenly distributed again and the pins put in place for the next stitching. As many rows of stitching as desired may be used, and they may run lengthwise and crosswise, or in only one direction. A very satisfactory puff results if they are run lengthwise and placed 8 or 10 inches apart.

19 If the quilting is to be done by hand, the down should be evenly distributed and enough pins put in to hold it in place before fasten ing in the quilting frame. Then pins should be added to mark the lines of the quilting stitches before the quilting is started. This prevents the down from shifting while the quilting is being done. The rows of quilting stitches can be put in to form a scroll design or straight lines can be followed. In planning the quilting one should keep in mind that the purpose of the quilting is to hold the down in place, but still permit it space in which to puff up and make a light fluffy cover.

Method III Sew the top and bottom cover together at the ends and turn the seams to the wrong side. Then stitch top and bottom together down the center from end to end. This forms two large pockets on each side. Draw lines with chalk every 9" from side to side. Stitch . on these lines. This makes 10 pockets on each side, each 9" x 35" and open at the small end. Place feathers into the· cover by hand. Fill one pocket with feathers and test to see if it is full enough. Then place the same amount of feathers in each pocket. Sew up the ends of the pocket. Distribute the feathers evenly in each pocket and draw lines with chalk every 9" from end to end. When the stitching is finished the entire comforter is stitched in 9" squares.

SELECTING BED LINEN AND BLANKETS Sheets Correct Size There is extra wear on bedding which is too small in size be cause it doe~ not stay in place. Sheets which are too short or narrow to stay tucked in may be enlarged with pieces of old sheets, muslin, or flour sacks added to one side and end. Blankets may be enlarged in the same way. However, a heavier weight material such as out ing flannel is more satisfactory for blankets. It is better to add a strip to each side if the blanket is much too narrow. Sheets may be purchased ready made or sheeting may be pur chased and sheets made at home. There is no appreciable difference in cost. "Torn size before hemming" on the label means that each sheet is torn by hand from the bolts of cloth. This insures a straight edge. A sheet 90 inches wide and 108 inches long before hemming 20 is the most satisfactory size for a double bed. To determine width for other size beds of same length, plan for the sheet to hang over the edge of the mattress 12 inches or more. A three-inch hem at both ends makes it possible to use either end for the top. Sheets will last considerably longer if, before the center has worn too thin, they are cut down the center and the outer portion changed to the center. Lap the selvage edges and sitch twice for the center seam, and make a quarter inch hem on the outer edges. Size of Blankets Blankets should be long enough to tuck in at least 12 inches at the foot of the bed and wide enough to hang at least 12 inches over the edges of the bed. It is necessary to have plenty of blanket over the edges of the bed to keep out the cold air while sleeping. Pillowcases The common torn sizes for pillowcases before hemming are 42 x 36 inches and 42 x 38_0 inches for a 20 x 27 inch pillow, and 45 x 36 inches and 45 x 38,0 inches for a 22 x 28 inch pillow. It is always wise to have the case a little larger around than the pillow. Two inches larger is recommended. For instance, a pillow 20 inches wide is 40 inches around; therefore, it should have a 42- inch case. The width is measured around pillow tubing. Pillow case wear may be extended in the following manner. Rip the seam at the end and change the position of the side seam to the center. Rip this seam and make a double stitched lapped seam if preferred. (For additional information on buying sheets, blankets' and pillowcases, ask your County Extension Service for the free Farm ers' Bulletin No. 1765 entitled, "Guides for Buying Sheets, Blankets and Bath Towels" and mimeograph uNew Labels on Sheets and Pillow Cases." Bedspreads Generous sizes, substantial edge finishes, well-made seams, and Good fabrics are desirable in a bedspread. Sizes for a double bed vary from 80 to 90 inches in width and 90 to 108 inches in length. The 90-inch length does not allow for covering the pillows. A size 90 inches wide by 108 inches long proves very satisfactory for a double bed, providing a generous tuck-in and allowing for cover ing the pillows. (For additional information on buying bedspreads ask your County Extension Service for the free Extension Bulletin No. 211 entitled, uBuying Bedspreads".) 21 Care of the Bed (Adapted from "First Year-4-H Club Home Efficiency Pro ject" by Esther Pond, Home Management Specialist). Weekly Care. All bedding should be removed at least once a week. While the mattress is airing, the springs and bedspread can be dusted. The mattress should be beaten and turned each week. (Occasional sunning has already been mentioned.) Turn the mattress from end to end and from side to side to make sure the mattress wears evenly all over. Clean sheets should be put on the beds once a week.

Making the Bed. I. Place the mattress pad on the mattress. 2. Lay the lower sheet, tuck under mattress six to nine inches at the head of the bed. 3. Miter the corner at the head of the bed. To do this, grasp the edge of the sheet about two feet from the corner. Lift up to form a triangle (the edge of the sheet is at right angles to the mattress). Laying the triangle back on top of the bed, tuck the base of the triangle under the mattress. Now drop the triangle and tuck under. This leaves a neat diagonal fold which won't pull out. 4. Miter the corner at the foot of the bed (on the same side of the bed), then the foot at the other side of bed, and finish with the corner at the head of the bed. Some people learn to make all of one side of the bed before they go around to complete the opposite side. This saves steps and time. The sheet should fit snugly and smoothly. 5. Place the upper sheet, right side down, allowing six inches longer than the mattress at the head of the bed for turning back over the blankets. 6. Place the blankets, one at a time, laying the head of the blanket 12 inches from the head of the bed. Turn top sheet back over the blankets. 7. Tuck the top sheet and blankets under together at the fo ot of the bed. At each corner of the foot of the bed, make the first step in mitering corners. Do not carry mitering of corners any farther; let the upper sheet and blankets hang loose at the sides of the bed. It is warmer this way. 8. Place the spread, folding back enough at the head of the bed to cover the pillows. 22 9. Lay the pillows on the bed to pull the pillow cases over them. Do not put pillows under chin or between teeth. Lay pil lows in place. Pull the spread over them. 10. Pull spread tight and tuck in at foot of bed (unless the bed has open end, such as does an iron bed; in this case, let end of spread hang loose.) 11. At each side of the foot of bed, make the first step of the mitered corner to give a neat corner. Pull the under part of the tucked in part so that it forms a straight line up and down at the foot of the bed. Daily Care of Bed : 1. At night fold spread neatly over foot of bed to prevent wrinkles. 2. In the morning s~ooth out lower sheet. 3. Pull upper sheet and blankets into place. 4. Replace spread. 5. Pat up pillows and replace bedspread over them. Pest Control: Occasionally there is a need for information on the control of insects associated with mattresses and bedding, such as: bedbugs, carpet beetles, and clothes moths. Information concerning the con· trol of such pests may be obtained from circulars available at the County Extension Service Office.

References Protect Your Bed-by Mrs. Bernice Claytor, Extension Specialist in Home Improvement; MS-470. Issued by the Extension Ser vice, Agriculture and Mechanics Arts College of Texas. Efficient Laundry Methods-Extension Bulletin 243, and First Year-4-H Home Efficiency Project-H.M.29, by Esther Pond, Home Management Specialist. Issued by the Extension Sen~ice, State College of Washington. Scouring Wool-Wyoming Extension Service. How to Prepare Raw Wool at Home for Bedding-Bnreau of Home Economics, U.S.D.A., Washington, D. C.

23 Published and distributed In furtherance of the Act of May 8, 1914, by the State College of Washington, Extension Service, F. E. Bahner, Director, and U. S. Department of Agriculture cooperating.