Kevin.Murphy Brings Beauty to the Outback

BEAUTY IS OUR BUSINESS JANUARY 2018

KEVIN.MURPHY BRINGS BEAUTY TO THE OUTBACK TLC for Winter-Weary Hair ■ IT LIST ■ New! Influencers Column ■ YOUNG AMERICANS ■ Colorist Josh Wood Interviews Stylist Guido Palau ■ THINK TANK ■ 10 Salon Product Breakthroughs ■ TEAR SHEETS

hairtalkusa.com | 800.327.7971 hairtalkusa for Great Lengths Great for by Angelo Seminara Angelo by EMOTIONS

SOURCED FROM THE TEMPLES OF INDIA MADE IN ITALY

ATTEND THE 3-DAY TRAINING EXPERIENCE AND JOIN THE WORLD’S MOST EXCLUSIVE CERTIFIED SALON NETWORK

DALLAS: Feb. 25, 26 & 27 LOS ANGELES: March 11, 12 & 13 NASHVILLE: March 25, 26 & 27

800.999.0809 | greatlengthsusa.com HAIR EXTENSION SERVICES CONTENTS January 2018 departments features

18 39 56 74 ■ IT LIST ■ BEAUTY VAULT ■ TEAR SHEETS On the Wild Side Fabulous finds from Unlocking this Inspirational Kevin Murphy transports us to the the pop culture scene month’s cutting-edge collections from Australian Outback with his latest Behind the hair of techniques and the global artists collection. Phantom Thread; products to create Sal Misseri gets bold and smoky eyes; them fantastical; Charlie State of the art; Price’s homage to 82 Gucci’s chic objet Putting on the Blitz d’art; Jen Atkin’s fresh Laurent Philippon’s femininity; Label.m Paul Dennison and the Ken Picton scents secret weapons; presents We Are Art Team channel the New Romantic winter-friendly Two; Joanne O’Neill’s movement that rocked 1970s London. masques; on the road modern Renaissance 28 with Matty Conrad; women ■ THINK TANK global nail trends 90 The go-to guide for Bold Strokes salon profitability ➤ in every issue Karine Jackson taps into Organic A Beverly Hills bastion 50 AmericanSalon.com 10 Colour Systems’ high-impact palette of beauty; wellness ■ TALK SHOW Publisher’s Note 12 for a collection of vibrant yet wearable solutions for a happy The Influencers, Editor’s Note 14 fashion hues. staff; five tips for salon Artists’ Session, Cover Look 16 success Young Americans Archive 96 Hollywood hairmaster Adir Abergel; Josh Wood and Guido Palau get chatty; Sally 50 Hershberger’s rising star

95 60

6 americansalon.com January 2018 INTRODUCING

PATENT-PENDING� FLEX YOUR STYLE TECHNOLOGY

This NEW ergonomic design with patent-pending technology allows you to style strands without straining your shoulders and wrists.

With one click, this rod angles from 90° to 180° for easy styling.

To get Neuro Angle in your salon, contact your John Paul Mitchell Systems® Distributor. For more details, visit us at neurohair.com and follow us on Instagram @NeuroHair. EDITORIAL Editorial Director KELLEY DONAHUE; [email protected] Creative Director JEANNIE OBERHOLTZER Executive Editor ANDREA DAWN CLARK; [email protected] Senior Editors KRISTEN HEINZINGER; [email protected] MAUREEN SHEEN; [email protected] Associate Digital Editor MICHELLE MCKELVEY; [email protected] Editorial Intern BEATRIX WATANABE; [email protected]

MANAGEMENT Publisher BRETT VINOVICH; [email protected] Vice President of Content RUTHANNE TERRERO; [email protected]

SALES/MARKETING Eastern Regional Sales Director ANTHONY R. GIANNOCCORA; [email protected] Account Manager KRISTINE COMPTON; [email protected] Group Marketing Director TINA KASSIMIS; [email protected] Senior Marketing & Education Manager NATASHA BHALLA; [email protected]

INTERNATIONAL BEAUTY SHOWS PRODUCTION/CIRCULATION Vice President, IBS Events LIZA WYLIE; 203/227-9875 Audience Development Manager CAROL HATCHER; 216/586-5620 To attend IBS New York: 800/427-2420 Publishing Operations Director HAL GARSTEIN; 212/895-8439; [email protected] To attend IBS Las Vegas: 800/496-9861 Production Specialist LYNN ERDAHL; 212/895-8499; [email protected] To exhibit at IBS New York or IBS Las Vegas: 212/895-8234 Senior Digital Imaging Specialist JON SHAW; [email protected]

LIST MANAGEMENT REPRINTS/LICENSING MeritDirect Wright’s Media ANTHONY CARRATURO; 914/368-1083; [email protected] 877/652-5295

President and Chief Executive Officer KERRY C. GUMAS Chief Financial Officer DEBRA S. MASON Executive Vice President and Chief Digital Officer STEVE KURTZ Senior Vice President Sales and Business Development JACK FORDI Senior Vice President Digital Content and Product ANTHONY DeBARROS

To receive American Salon by mail, subscribe or renew at americansalon.com/magazine-subscribe or call 847/513-6024. Please recycle this magazine. 757 THIRD AVENUE, FIFTH FLOOR, NEW YORK, NY 10017 212/895-8200 © 2018, QUESTEX LLC, PRINTED IN THE USA

Authorization to photocopy items for internal or personal use of specific clients is granted by Questex LLC, for libraries and other users registered with the Copyright Clearance Center (CCC), 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923. Phone: 978/750-8400; fax: 978/750-4470. Call for copying beyond that permitted by Sections 107 and 108 of the U.S. Copyright Law. For those not registered with the CCC, send permission requests to Wright’s Media, 877/652-5295. American Salon does not verify any claims or other information appearing in any of the advertisements contained in the publication and cannot take any responsibility for losses or other damages incurred by readers in reliance on such content. American Salon welcomes unsolicited articles, manuscripts, photographs, illustrations and other materials but cannot be held responsible for their safekeeping or return. Questex LLC provides certain customer contact data (such as customers’ names, addresses, phone numbers and e-mail addresses) to third parties who wish to promote relevant products, services and other opportunities that may be of interest to you. If you do not want Questex LLC to make your contact information available to third parties for marketing purposes, simply call 866/344-1315 or 847/513-6024 if outside the U.S. between the hours of 8:30 a.m. and 5 p.m.

American Salon (ISSN 0741-5737) is published monthly (12 issues) by Questex LLC, 757 Third Ave., 5th Floor, New York, NY 10017. Subscription rates $44.00, 1-year, $66.00, 2-year in the United States & Possessions; $57.00, 1-year $85.00, 2-year in Canada and Mexico; all other countries $66.00, 1-year, $99.00, 2-year. For air-expedited service, include an additional $75 per order annually. Single copies (prepaid only): $8.00 in the United States; $10.00 in Canada and Mexico: all other countries $12.00. Include $6.50 per order plus $2 per additional copy for U.S. postage and handling. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY 10199 and additional mailing offices. Post Master: Send address changes to American Salon PO Box 1267, Skokie, IL 60076-8267. Canadian G.S.T. number: 840 033 278 RT 0001. Publications Mail Agreement Number 40017597. Printed in the U.S.A. Copyright 2017 by Questex LLC, All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including by photocopy, re ording or information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Authorization to photocopy items for internal or personal use, or the internal or personal use of specific clients, is granted by Questex LLC for libraries and other users registered with the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, phone: 978/750-8400, fax: 978/750-4470; call for copying beyond that permitted by Sections 107 and 108 of the U.S. Copyright Law. For those not registered with the CCC, send permission requests to Wright’s Media 877/652-5295. Unsolicited manuscripts, photographs, art, and other material will not be returned. Publisher assumes no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, photographs, art, and other materials. To order reprints contact Wright’s Media 877/652-5295.

8 americansalon.com January 2018 americansalon.com

#TRENDING: What’s to Come?

Orlando, FL, the site of We talked with Matrix Destination 2018 industry icons, including Sam Villa, LUCIE DOUGHTY Shelley Gregory, Lucie Doughty, Ian Michael Black and Anh Co Tran to hear their 2018 hair trend predictions. Plus, they spilled the dirt on looks they ANH CO TRAN hope fade, and ones they wish would stick around just a little bit longer. Head over to AmericanSalon.com to get the scoop.

COMING SOON IAN MICHAEL BLACK Matrix Destination 2018 READY TO BE INSPIRED? Blonde Ambition Empower yourself with four From cream soda and crème days of compelling education at brulee, to ashy, rooted and Matrix Destination 2018. Immerse GEORGE PAPANIKOLAS caramel, blondes may have yourself in presentations and had the most fun last year. Can classes led by award-winning they maintain their title in 2018? Check out artists including: George AmericanSalon.com to see a roundup of the best Papanikolas, Tabatha Coffey, blonde trends. Chrystofer Benson, Nick Stenson, Danielle Keasling, Dilek @buddywporter TABATHA COFFEY Onur-Taylor, Michelle O’Connor and more. If you can’t make it, be sure to tune into Facebook.com/ AmericanSalon for some exciting live videos.

CHRYSTOFER BENSON @stephengarrison STAY IN TOUCH Follow us on social media

@nikkilee901 americansalon @American_Salon

10 americansalon.com January 2018 INSPIRE. CREATE. SHARE. #COLORCREATORS

IN T R ODU CIN G COL OR F R E S H C R E AT E , A L INE O F E X P R E S SI V E S E MI- P E R M A NE N T S H A DE S .

WELLAUSA.COM • • • • WELLA PROFESSIONALS USA • 800-935-5273 • ©2017 THE WELLA CORPORATION MODE RN HOLD publisher’s note MODERN TEXTURE GLORY DAYS American Salon is ringing in 2018 with a new look and a brand new MODE RN F IRM. tagline: Beauty Is Our Business, which embodies everything this magazine stands for. Call me biased, but I’m a big believer that no other industry publication delivers editorial content that motivates, inspires and empowers salon professionals to succeed better than we do. To that end, I thought it fitting to share some influential trends I learned about at the Professional Beauty Association’s annual Executive Summit. I think you’ll find them helpful in driving success in your salons in the months ahead. From Peter Sheahan, who co-penned Matter: Move Beyond the Competition, Create More Value, and Become the Obvious Choice (BenBella Books, 2016) with Julie Williamson come these insights: ✚ Companies don’t transform, leaders do. It’s people that anticipate trends and make decisions. ✚ Tell the truth. It’s easier to move from acceptance to action, than awareness to acceptance. ✚ Action precedes clarity. There is value in learning opportunities. ✚ Move toward disruption. Identify opportunities to get ahead of changing trends. ✚ Orient your strategy around the outcome that consumers/ clients want. Meanwhile, Mike Walsh, futurist, global nomad and CEO of Tomorrow, presented “The Next Generation,” highlighting thinking, talking and purchasing behaviors of future generations, with a focus on technology and culture. Among the key takeaways: ✚ Tomorrow’s consumers, shaped by artificial intelligence, will be faster and smarter, and they will expect personalized, authentic, data- driven experiences. ✚ Technology may have transformed your MIKE organization, but culture should still be your WALSH operating system. ✚ When hiring, focus less on skill sets and more on mindsets. PETER ✚ Staff should be empowered to have fact- SHEAHAN based conversations about change. Wishing you all a successful and happy New Year! —Brett Vinovich, publisher, [email protected]

IN MEMORIAM: Conair Co-founder and Chairman of the Board Leandro “Lee” P. Rizzuto died on Sunday, December 3, 2017, after a long battle with pancreatic cancer. Ronald T. Diamond, president of Conair Corporation, said, “We are deeply saddened by the loss of our leader. Mr. Rizzuto was a man who loved life and people and deeply loved our company. PRORITUALS He was our leader, mentor and teacher, encouraging those P: 800.783.9969 • F: (619) 276.7661 around him to always strive to do more than we thought we E: [email protected] could do, and be greater than we thought we could be.” www.prorituals.com NEW YEAR NEW LASHES

& local distributors www.grandecosmetics.com | www.grandewholesale.com | 1.877.835.3010 editor’s note

A STAR IS BORN YOU’RE HOLDING IN YOUR hands the redesigned January 2018 issue of American Salon, and we couldn’t be more excited! The longtime go-to guide for all things hair and beauty is now organized into color-coded sections for easier navigation. What’s more, we’ve filled those sections with informative content encompassing everything from pop culture and up-and-coming artists to influencers, innovative salon techniques, and business-building tips—all of which can be absorbed at greater speed thanks to our easier-to-read format. Because American Salon is also known for its beautiful layouts and sophisticated covers, where the elite and the aspiring turn to for the style news of the moment, the magazine redesign would not be complete without features from top-drawer talents. Be sure to check out the gifted artistry of Kevin Murphy, Karine Jackson and Paul Dennison and the Ken Picton Artistic team in this issue. Finally, we are thrilled to shine a spotlight on our storied history—141 years in 2018—in Archive, which closes each issue. While we pay tribute to our past, we’re also looking forward to our bright future—one where we continue to set the standard for new hair and beauty trends. After all, that’s the very formula that’s kept American Salon successful for nearly a century and a half. —Kelley Donahue, editorial director, [email protected]

IN MEMORIAM: The industry lost one if its greats in December. Giuseppe “Toni” Mascolo, CEO and co-founder of Toni&Guy hair salons, Essensuals and Label.m, died on December 10, 2017 at the age of 75. Mascolo launched the first of the famous salons in Clapham, south London, along with his brother Guy. Over the span of 50-plus years, the company has grown to comprise two global franchised hair salon groups, with 475 Toni&Guy shops across 48 countries. Highly respected within the hairdressing community, Mascolo was designated Officer of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire by Queen Elizabeth II in 2008. Mascolo is survived by his wife Pauline, brothers Bruno and Anthony, his children Sacha, Christian and Pierre, and his many grandchildren. cover look

DESERT BLOOM FROM CONCEPT TO SHOOT, the Outback collection was meant to highlight the beauty of a model in an environment she’s at odds with, juxtaposing hard with soft, rough with smooth. But Kevin Murphy, brand founder, quickly discovered himself and his team at odds with the Australian Outback on shoot day. “I don’t think we really understood how challenging the environment was going to be,” says Murphy. “It was super-hot and very dry. We were going for a ’90s look with the makeup, which was heavy black eyeliner on the inside rim of the eye. The makeup artist would draw black liner on the models’ eyes just before we shot, and when we looked at all the first shots, the girls looked like they were in tears. We probably should have given it some more thought and eased up on the eyeliner.” But Murphy and his team were able to practice grace under fire, producing beautiful imagery to convey the high performance of Kevin.Murphy products in any situation, like our cover model, who looks fashionably at ease in the most unforgiving of environments.—Maureen Sheen

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The hero products used to create the collection’s looks; Kevin Murphy putting the finishing touches on set. PHOTOGRAPHY: MURPHY LUIS New generation of our best selling shears Improved features & technology provide even greater comfort & performance

Available in right & left-handed

6” thinner with 35 teeth

5”, 5.75”, 6.5” shears NEW!

Intro Price Exclusive Case Deal Includes Shear, Thinner, Oil Brush, Cleaning Cloth, Finger Ring Inserts, & Adjust Tension Tool only $149 (reg. $370)

Tools of Professionals Worldwide

www.oliviagarden.com For a distributor near you, call 1-800-922-2301 Available at independent distributors nationwide

Find us on Download our App IT LIST ■ 18 americansalon.com

January 2018 GLITTERS all that —Kelley Donahue sydhayeshair.com and versatile. are at once chic elevate looks that hair accessories the bespoke diamond versions, as well astwo in five finishes collection. Available eponymous hairpin time to designan Syd Hayes found session stylist Vogue UK,London Vogue Italia and with Louis Vuitton, IN BETWEEN GIGS

PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF SYD HAYES

IT LIST ■ PERCENT ofspacustomers are men,upfrom 29percent in 2005, according to The International SpaAssociation. 20

—KH lovers inthe1800s. exchanged between a sweet treat often by theTurkish Delight, bodycare are inspired candles, perfumesand rose-infused diffusers, iconic fragrance. The Eau Rose, anodeto its romance withitslatest collections, Rose Delight and Purveyor ofsumptuousscents Diptyque inspires La Vie enRose americansalon.com 49

January 2018 York show. —KH Prabal Gurung’s New waist-line cutouts at cocktail dress with elegant yet modern silhouettes, like the fabrics andfuturistic opting for shimmery with designers winter 2017 runways, silver struck thefall/ High-shine metallic SILVER STREAK boundary between fashion andtheater.—KH or softhalos,Icreated characters that blurthe playing withcolors, shadow andlight, boldlines and anger, underthelensofEllenvon Unwerth. By I created my own interpretation ofsadness, joy on theface. Inspired by thispalette ofemotions, students how to translate emotionsby usingcolors first makeup schoolinEurope, Iloved to show my THE CHARACTERS: Asatraining managerat the their innerartist. invite peopleto play withmakeup, to learn,to reveal them pro tipsonhow to useourproducts. Iwant to clients, “I’llhelpyou play your part!”whilegiving yourself. Icome from thestage andIalways tell a role to play, andmakeup allows you to transform THE STORY: Life isastage onwhicheveryone has artists whohave always beenby my side. life through makeup andto work withdearmakeup project hasbeenaway for meto bringcharacters to book that would reflect my creative philosophy. This THE INSPIRATION: Iwanted to create aunique Rizzoli, palettes, whichare celebrated inhernew bookfrom the makeup industry withherhigh-pigment Make UpFor Ever founder Dany transformed Sanz STAYING POWER Life IsAStage gives. Sanz thescoop.

PHOTOGRAPHY: ISTOCK (MAN); IMAXTREE (SILVER STREAK)

IT LIST ■ 22 americansalon.com century. moma.org—KD have hadaprofound effect onthe world over thepast the miniskirt,501 Levis andAviator sunglasses—that and accessories—like thelittle blackdress, Capripants, years. Items: IsFashion Modern? explores 111garments Museum ofModernArt’s first fashion exhibition in 70 Real life andtherunway intersect at theNew York Substance ofStyle

January 2018 smythson.com—KD down fashionable thoughts. ideal accessory for jotting as well asPanama—are the and SoHo(both seenhere) special editions—Portobello Available inthree sizes, the illustrations onthecover. one ofherbespoke cat of notebooks featuring maker Smythson onarange British stationer anddiary collaborated withcelebrated for three decades, has Vogue’s creative director narratives asAmerican created powerful visual Grace Coddington, who Take Note Esposito, owner ofhisnamesake saloninBeverly Hills,CA.—KD strong statement withdramatic anglesthat really play uptheneckandjawline,” says Vito and ontop modelswhowalked thefall/winter 2017 runways. “The aucourant lookmakes a an edgierversion oftheiconic lookismakingheadlinesineditorial campaigns,onA-listers No stranger to thespotlight, thebobishaving amajormoment again.This timearound, SHORT &CHIC

PHANTOM THREAD BEHIND THESCENES ➤ attention away from theperformance.” —KH Teasy-Weasy, heexplains. “We decidedto soften thoselooks, soasnotto draw regularly paidvisitsto well-known hairdressers like Raymond ofMayfair, a.k.a.Mr. in 1950s England, middle andupper-middle class ladieswere very stylized and his hairhimselfandhave mecheck it,” Gordon says. Asfor thewomen’s coifs, hair backandtrimmeditonce a week. “Hewas very hands-on—he’d often do Jon HenryGordon says. To give Day-Lewis an“artist look,” Gordon combed the fashion, andhere isagirlwithnomakeup andherhairscraped back,” hairlead lover inasimple seasidegirl,Alma(Vicky Krieps). “He’s usedto thisworld ofhigh Reynolds Woodcock (DanielDay-Lewis), in1950s London whofinds a museand Visit AmericanSalon.com for more imagesandinsight. (December 2017) isthestory ofarenowned dressmaker, Gordon Henry Jon

PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF MOMA (SUBSTANCE OF STYLE); SMYTHSON (TAKE NOTE); IMAXTREE (TAKE NOTE); LAURIE SPARHAM / FOCUS FEATURES (BEHIND THE SCENES) HAIR SYSTEMS INC.

Processors & Packagers of Quality Care Products

We specialize in the formulation, manufacturing and packaging of: HAIR LIGHTENER HAIR COLOR DEVELOPER SHAMPOO CONDITIONER STYLING PRODUCTS Contact us today to make your new product concept a reality. www.hairsystemsinc.com (732) 786-8921 [email protected] IT LIST ■ lids for adeconstructed smoky eye. aveda.com—KH strokes, shepainted BlackForest Mosscara across the Essence Eye Trio inBlackTulip. Usingsweeping Eye DefinerinBlackOrchid andset itwith Petal Geason encircled eyelids withAveda Petal Essence looks. At Leanne Marshall’s fall/winter 2017 show, Makeup JanellGeasonto freshen upwinter beauty Take acue from Aveda GlobalArtistic Director of APPROACH LINEAR

24 americansalon.com ’70s archives. gucci.com—KD flowers—and abee, a symbol from theItalianhouse’s whimsical Toile deJouyofcherrybranches, leaves and small round dishfeatures Gucci’s Herbarium motif—a fashion withthischicobjet d’art from Gucci. The The incense burnermoves into the realm ofhigh GOOD CENSE

January 2018 Catherine Malandrino

and inventory levels. amazon.com—KH custom information like client history information like retail salesandrecall lists, set reminders, access company schedule appointments, manageto-do to order supplies,access calendars, assistant hasto offer are theability skills thenew whip-smartdigital with Alexa for Business. Amongthe Amazon, isexpanding itsrepertoire Alexa, the populartech gadget from Vive laFrance. us.macmillan.com—ADC triumph, tragedy—with thememoryoftheirclothesintact.” They live inthemandexperience everything—love, sadness, emotional,” says Malandrino. “They don’t just wear them. the essence ofFrench chicness. “For theFrench, clothesare how to buildatimeless French wardrobe andbreaks down drawn illustrations, Malandrino’s bookteaches thereader Parisian paced Americanwomen understand how to addanairof Seductive Style of French Women, Malandrinohelpsfast- Malandrino. Inhernew bookUneFemme Française: The American style, it’s celebrated fashion designerCatherine If there’s anyone whocanseamlessly bridgeFrench and C’est Chic client is at at is client Your next Your next je nesaisquoi 3 PM. 3

to theirstyle. Filledwithherhand-

PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF ST. MARTIN’S PRESS (C’EST CHIC); GUCCI (GOOD CENSE); @JGEASON (LINEAR APPROACH)

IT LIST ■ 26

brighten your day andyour feed. kirakira.plus—MS of thesparkle. Andat just 99 cents, it’s thecheapthrill that will emitting anda sidetoolbar allows you to adjust theintensity Twelve different modesaccentuate anything reflective orlight- photos andpreviously shotphotos into glittering masterpieces. and beauty set for itsglitter-factor abilities, turningvideos,still sparkle-making apphasswept through theranks ofthefashion Kirakira+ TWINKLE, TWINKLE and relax. pursomalife.com—KH into steaming hotwater, slipin, green clay, seasalt,andalgae, detoxifying cocktail of French Bath, anindulgent and a longday, pourResurrection salts. To reclaim your energy after care ritualwithPursomabath A simplebath becomes aself- Soothe &Soak americansalon.com has become Instagram’s newest star—literally. The

January 2018

white muskandItalianlemon.theouai.com—MS edition set ofthree rollerball fragrances: jasmine, popular scents andpackaged theminto alimited- social mediabutterfly hasbottled three ofhermost of herline’s diehard fans, thecelebrity stylist and fragrances, every day andon-the-go. At therequest line cannow indulgeinherintoxicating new trioof Fans ofJenAtkin’s highlycoveted Ouaihaircare Get Ouai-sted cultgaia.com—KH like lapisandjade. resemble gemstones, come infive colors that hoops. The earrings a collection ofacrylic the jewelry gamewith hasenteredCult Gaia 2017 bamboobag, “it” The brand behindthe CLASSIC CULT

PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF @MODAOPERANDI (TWINKLE, TWINKLE); PURSOMA (SOOTHE AND SOAK); CULT GAIA (CULT CLASSIC) ; OUAI (GET OUAI-STED) 2)),&,$/ (48,30(17 67

0,1(59$ %($87< 6HZHOO1HZ-HUVH\ 0DUWLQR&DUWLHU6DORQ CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Bomane’s spacious layout guarantees equal comfort for clients and staff;

■ Davines products stock the wash area; Co-owners Sonny Henty and Andrea Jaclyn. THINK TANK THINK TANK

Bomane salon gives a Beverly Hills historic landmark a posh makeover and offers a next-level client experience. GAME CHANGER

28 americansalon.com January 2018

■

“We let clients leave their baggage at the door and relax with us for a few hours. We help change their perspective on how they’re feeling about themselves.”—SONNY HENTY THINK TANK

WHEN ANDREA JACLYN AND SONNY Henty first met at a nightclub, they had no intention to someday open a salon together. Jaclyn was a successful hairstylist and extensions specialist catering to celebrity clients, and Henty, a former boxer, was modeling. “When Drea said she was thinking about opening a hair salon, at first I was like, what’s the point? There’s no money in hair!” Sonny says. Fast forward, the two got together and Henty did more than change his tune. “I got a [cosmetology] license, started doing extensions with Drea, and saw the business possibilities in LA, especially Beverly Hills,” he says. Jaclyn, who trained at the Paul Mitchell School in San Diego, sensed an opportunity for a new approach. “I felt like the high-end customer experience was diminished. At Bomane, we take everything at a slower pace,” she says. To enhance the in-salon experience, Bomane created an app for appointment scheduling and payment, offers chargers at every station, provides valet service, and hosts quarterly staff trainings to keep techniques fresh. The investment paid off, with client retention in the high 90s, Henty says. The salon also retails Davines products and jewelry designed by Jaclyn and Henty on its website as an added perk. A play on “beau,” the French word for beautiful, Bomane moved into a historic Beverly Hills building last spring, which Henty completely demoed. It transformed into an 3,600-square- foot full-service salon with 17 stations and a private, ventilated keratin room, a rare luxurious amount of space. No corner was left untouched. A clean and simple palette of Henty created the wall art, makes candles to black, white and retail and burn in the salon, and rather than gray is balanced polishing the concrete floor in the back of house, by neon signs and he and Jaclyn created a collage of Kate Moss pop art. images, immortalized with a coat of epoxy resin. They even placed crystals in each wall to balance energies. “We let clients leave their baggage at the door and relax with us for a few hours,” Henty says. “We help change their perspective on how they’re feeling about themselves. They walk out feeling like a million dollars.”—Kristen Heinzinger

30 americansalon.com January 2018 FEEL THE LOVE AND BECOME A KEVIN.MURPHY SALON AT KEVINMURPHYLOVES.COM ■ BIBA BE WELL ➤ Try these simple yoga poses, courtesy of Simple solutions Boom Boom yogi Rebecca Hoffman. for a balanced life THINK TANK THINK TANK CAT/COW STRETCH: Start on elbows narrow and breathe. Inhale, the hands and knees, arms straight, lift gaze to the ceiling. Exhale, allow palms directly under the shoulders. gaze to continue up, press the Breathe in, drop the belly, lift eyes palms into the lower back to push up to the ceiling. Exhale, round hips forward. Hold for five breaths. the spine, gaze toward the naval. LEGS UP THE WALL: Lie down Repeat. on the floor and keep seat close to MODIFIED CAMEL POSE: Stand the wall. Turn hips toward the wall, with feet parallel, six inches apart. kick legs up, and let them rest on Bring hands to the low back, the wall. Open the arms to release fingertips facing down. Keep the chest.

Manly Endeavors BOOM BOOM BROW BAR hosts weekly yoga Paul Merritt takes Arrojo’s barbering classes to the next level with a nod to classes for stylists; BIBA in New Zealand is a salon individuality. and a yoga studio. The Arrojo Cosmetology School in New York inding balance is an obstacle for most time-pressed beauty City opened their first barbering program this professionals. So, when Boom Boom Brow Bar owner Malynda past December. “We’re trying to make barbers more Vigliotti discovered that one of her estheticians was a yoga versatile,” says Paul Merritt, Arrojo master stylist and Finstructor, she asked if she would host a weekly class at the New York educator. “When you think of men’s hair now, it’s not City studio for the staff’s convenience. “In our industry, unless you just a classic barber’s cut. Today’s barbers need to work for a big company, you don’t understand textures and trends, while having an eye typically get healthcare benefits or paid vacation,” Vigliotti says, adding for individuality.” To showcase these elements, Merritt that the yoga class has become a created a photography collection that captured each great way to connect with her staff. model’s unique style, hair texture and personality. One “The girls go out after work, but no of Merritt’s models used to hide his cochlear implant one wants to go out with their mom with his hair, “but I wanted to expose it, because it or the boss,” she says. “In class, we’re was part of his individuality.” Another model learned falling over, we’re giggling. It’s a cute to embrace his hair texture with a bowl cut and bonding experience.” dramatic color. “Men used to go into a barbershop In New Zealand, Biba took and request a number one, a renovation to the next level, two or three—it was that BIBA transforming into a salon/yoga studio basic,” says Merritt. “Now hybrid by way of mobile styling barbers are having deep stations. “When brainstorming the salon design, I kept wanting to conversations with their practice yoga in the space,” says owner Belinda Robb. “My daughter clients, finding out what said, ‘Why can’t it be both?’ That changed everything.” each individual is all about.” The response has been positive and profitable. In addition to arrojocosmetology.com. cross-pollination between the salon and studio clientele, the space hosts wellness events. Plus, Robb has been able to attract the cream —ADC of the crop when it comes to staff. “Our industry is not one that’s been ➤ Visit AmericanSalon.com known for wellbeing. When salon owners complain that it’s hard to get to see the entire collection.

good staff, I say, well maybe you aren’t offering the right things!”—KH PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF ARROJO; BIBA

32 americansalon.com January 2018 PS93 PS92 CHAIR CHAIR SWIVELS SWIVELS

FOOTSIE SPAS THE ULTIMATE IN RELAXATION

WWW.PIBBS.COM

• Pamper Your Clients with Pibbs’ PLUMBING No-Plumbing Spas Featuring Luxury Reclining Chairs with Massage Functions and Retractable FREE SPAS! Footbath Slide. • Complete with FM3848 Footsie Bath Our exclusive patented Pedicure Spa Featuring Vibrating plumbing free spas Massage, Heat and Disposable Liners featuring the Footsie Bath for Ultimate Hygiene. • PS92 Black Chair Top. Base Available Tub with disposable liners. in Black, Ivory and Ruby. Made of sturdy fiberglass • PS93 Black Chair Top with Standard that is impervious to Wild Cherry Laminate Base. Additional Laminate Colors Available at an water damage. FM3848 Footsie Bath Additional Cost. Complete • Chair Top Reclines with 6 Vibrating Massage Modes.

133-15 32ND AVE, FLUSHING, NY 11354 | TEL (800) 551 5020 | (718) 445 8046 ■

Higher Learning “Elevating the salon industry begins with elevating you,” says Daniel Mason- Jones, co-owner of Atlanta beauty hotspot Muse Salon and Spa. He should

THINK TANK THINK TANK know. Mason-Jones parlayed his skills as a sought-after stylist and colorist into becoming a top educator at Renowned. Here, Mason shares five tips for stylists to ensure their business thrives.—KD

Consultation is Key: As artists, we sometimes forget that communication 1 is the lifeline of our business. Continually checking in with guests on every Robbie Kelman Baxter salon visit is the foundation of long-lasting relationships. Relationship Goals Sell Well: Retail plays a vital role in what we do as beauty professionals. 2 Go the extra mile and prescribe what clients need so they have the tools It’s one thing to get a client in to recreate their salon looks at home. the door, but it’s another to Ti es That Bind: We artists can be intimidating without even realizing it, keep them coming back. In her 3 which is why we need to be assiduous, taking time to connect with our new book, The Membership guests so they always feel comfortable in our chairs. Economy, business consultant Deliver the Wow Factor: Studies show that guests are coming into 4 salons less frequently. In fact, the average guest used to visit the salon Robbie Kelman Baxter suggests nine times a year; now, it’s dropped to seven visits. Creating the best client introducing a customer success experience possible will help tip the team, whose priority scales in your business’ favor. is client experience, Get Social: If guests are bringing not just retention. 5 you pictures of someone else’s Unlike customer artistry, that’s a sure sign your salon’s service, the success social media platforms need to be team treats the updated. Clean up your channels by posting beautiful images of your consumer like a work that engage customers. And friend and generates remember, if someone is nice enough profits by building relationships. to comment on your page, always “Many brands now recognize respond. After all, it’s social media. that long-term engagement Daniel Mason-Jones is the way to build deeper customer loyalty,” she says. “Keeping in touch with your customers, helping them get the most from your product, and overall giving them the BFF treatment shows them that you really do care and makes them feel good about sticking with you for good.” membershipeconomy.com—KH

Muse Salon and Spa

34 americansalon.com January 2018 TICKETS EXPERIENCE THE BIGGEST & BEST ON SALE BEAUTY EXPO ON NOW THE WEST COAST #ISSELB PROBEAUTY.ORG/ISSE

JANUARY 27-29, 2018 | LONG BEACH CONVENTION CENTER ■

On the Road with Matty Conrad Self-proclaimed as the #worldsluckiestbarber, Matty Conrad (@mattyconrad) recently THINK TANK traveled to Japan and Ireland to check out the barber scene and culture. Here’s what the Victory Barber & Brand founder discovered in two of the world’s barbering hotspots.—MS

DUBLIN Sam’s Barbers in Dublin The Irish barber scene is growing global acclaim because of its precision fades and more aggressive styles like crops and carvings. Irish barbering has a strong focus on traditional services, but with a modern twist. Barbering in Ireland never really faded away, so there’s a lot of tradition to pull from. Many barbershops have a long history and it’s not uncommon to find shops like Sam’s Barbers, which has been a family business for generations. One thing I noticed is that a number of Dublin shops are opening up as discount barbers, where the quality is not exactly exemplary, but the price is TOKYO dirt cheap. This creates a lower overall value for Mr. Brothers Cut Club in Tokyo men’s haircuts and that’s reflected in the price Barbering culture is just starting to take off structure. Luckily, there are still a number of in Japan, which is surprising because they’re places focused on quality service. usually quite far ahead of the curve in terms of style and art. Faded pompadours are very popular, as are classic side-parted styles. Many guys are still perming their hair—it’s offered in every barbershop—because many styles are hard to achieve on coarse, straight hair. But there’s a new rockabilly movement starting to take hold in a few shops that have built up international attention, like Apache Barbershop and Mr. Brothers Cut Club. The Japanese business model seems to be pretty consistent with the North American model, with the only noticeable difference being the presence of colors and perms.

36 americansalon.com January 2018 Ultra Light Weight 2 speeds plus Instant cold shot button New Innovative K - ADVANCED® motor 4 temperatures Ionic & Ceramic Technology 3 meters of strong cable Long life 2,500 hours Recyclable materials Powerful 2,200 Watt Output Equipped with 2 nozzles 83 cubic meters/hour Air Flow Available in black, silver, light blue emerald, yellow, red and violet Less noise – incorporated silencer Optional diffuser available Ideal Size and Ergonomic Design Made in Italy Anti-Heating front body model 333

31-40 Downing Street • Flushing NY 11354 USA Tel: 718-961-0767 • 1-888-715-6100 • Fax: 718-961-2393 www.turbopowerinc.com Email: [email protected] HANDS-ON, SINGLE TECHNIQUE CLASSES 30 minute classes • No pre-registration • All tools provided Leave class prepared to try your new skill

JANUARY 27-29, 2018 | LONG BEACH CONVENTION CENTER | #ISSELB ■

State of the Art VAULT BEAUTY EVERY YEAR, A SLEW OF NEWLY LAUNCHED PRODUCTS AND TOOLS HITS THE MARKET. BUT WHICH ARE TRULY CHANGING UP THE PRO BEAUTY GAME FOR THE BETTER? PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF JPMS (BEAUTY SHOT)

TRUSS NET MASK is aimed at smart hair repair, featuring high-tech ingredients like amisil, polisil and creatine. Thanks to nanoregeneration PAUL MITCHELL NEURO ANGLE CONE properties, Net Mask adheres to the features an ergonomic and adjustable more porous areas of the hair, aiding patent-pending design along with a with hydration and reconstruction. SmartSense microchip for lightning- fast heat recovery. With just one click, the extra-long barrel positions from 90 degrees to 180 degrees, creating perfect ALFAPARF MILANO CELLULA MADRE is an in-salon curls and waves without straining treatment banking on the power of plant stem cells. shoulders or wrists. Derived from the potent cells of the argan tree, three liquid concentrates—Glow Multiplier, Nourishment Multiplier and Restructuring Multiplier—renew and strengthen hair.

January 2018 americansalon.com 39 ■ FAROUK CHI LAVA IRON features ceramic plates infused with volcanic lava for gentle consistency during heat styling. The innovative combination of elements allows for heat styling at lower temperatures, resulting in less damage and smoother, sleeker results.

BRAZILIAN BLOWOUT BEAUTY VAULT VAULT BEAUTY IONIC CLEANSER is part of an all new three-step Brazilian Blowout Professional Smoothing System utilizing next generation ionic technology to deliver results in as little as 80 minutes, and saving stylists up to 10 minutes per service.

GIBS CON MAN HAIR PUDDING boosts hair hydration and REDKEN COLOR EXTEND volume while also being able BONDER SYSTEM is a three-step to transform a dry, wily beard process that provides continued in a flash. Plus, the guar and protection post-service to guarana-infused pudding offers preserve hair’s inner fiber while antiseptic and antioxidant maintaining natural pH levels properties to benefit the scalp. by strengthening weak bonds HOT TOOLS CURL BAR SET is an innovative new during the vulnerable two weeks curling iron system that combines a unique ergonomic following a color service. design with the versatility of four interchangeable barrels. Plus, the one-of-a-kind optional timer feature allows stylists to adjust according to clients’ hair type and texture for more efficient styling.

Here are the most innovative products to try, buy and stock up on for 2018.

HAIRTALK EXTENSIONS TOP OF THE HEAD BIOLAGE RAW hair accessory not only TEXTURIZING STYLING combats the look of SPRAY is part of a next- thinning hair, but is generation collection designed to provide an of natural-origin styling instant root color change formulas providing high for clients looking to performance results that add a little something are seen but not felt. This extra to their look. matcha green tea-infused Made of 100 percent styling spray creates a remy human hair, these beachy, clean-feeling new commitment- texture and volume that and chemical-free lasts up to 24 hours. alternatives are available in 12 color options.

40 americansalon.com January 2018 LAURENT PHILIPPON What’s In My Kit?

OVER THE PAST 25 YEARS, editorial and fashion hairstyling icon and Bumble and bumble Global Artistic Director Laurent Philippon has crafted a storied career. He has lent his talents to top fashion publications, to haute couture houses like Chanel and Balmain, and to Hollywood A-listers and supermodels du jour. And, Philippon, who has worked under hair legends Alexandre de Paris, Julian D’Ys and Orlando Pita, has become a legend in his own right. Here’s what he packs in his three Rimowa suitcases—one for tools, one for hair extensions and one for wigs, naturally.—Maureen Sheen

1 2 3

4 5 6

7 8 9

1 Dyson Supersonic I love that I can now have a conversation while blow-drying my client’s hair. 2 Bumble and bumble Hairdresser’s Invisible Oil Dry Oil Finishing Spray My favorite to give shine and instant sexy texture. 3 Amika Flat Iron Heats up quickly and has a clever design that makes it excellent to manipulate. 4 Bumble and bumble Thickening Spray I use it for all styles, from blow-drying to working with hot tools. 5 Y.S. Park Paddle Brush They truly are the Rolls Royce of brushes. 6 BaByliss Nano Titanium Curling Iron I use BaByliss curling irons for traditional Marcel waving, and the 3-barrel iron for large crimped effects.7 Hercules-Sagermann Comb This comb has the right flexibility to backcomb hair. The teeth are large at the roots and thinner at the ends, so it’s perfect to draw parts and comb precisely for haircuts. 8 GHD Curve Classic Iron This curler is my favorite for soft waves. I love that the whole barrel heats up. It’s perfect for long hair. 9 Bumble and bumble Prêt-à-Powder Tres Invisible Dry Shampoo These are the best products to give volume, add grip for updos and dry clean the hair. I apply it all over, massage it in and spread it through the hair with a bristle brush.

January 2018 americansalon.com 41 ■ AVEDA’S PRAMĀSANA NOURISHING SCALP MASQUE uses seaweed extract to control excess sebum, while a blend of antioxidants BEAUTY VAULT VAULT BEAUTY and plant oils protects the scalp and hair. aveda.com

Handle with Care Replenish dry winter hair with an intensely hydrating masque or conditioner.

WHEN THE MERCURY STARTS TO DROP, it’s time to start suggesting deep- conditioning treatments, at-home masques or hydrating conditioners to your clients.

“Hair is constantly reacting to the environment and weather, and it behaves differently OF AVEDA COURTESY in each season,” says Josie Blanks, Aloxxi national educator. “In the winter season, hair doesn’t have as much moisture around it, which makes it dry, brittle and prone to static.” For some much-needed TLC, try offering one of these pampering treatments to

keep your clients’ hair soft, silky and shiny all season.—Andrea Dawn Clark PHOTOGRAPHY:

42 americansalon.com January 2018 SEBASTIAN PROFESSIONAL TWISTED ELASTIC TREATMENT nourishes curls ORIBE SERENE with red seaweed extract, adding lasting SCALP BALANCING moisture, curl elasticity and bounce. CONDITIONER sebastianprofessional.com soothes the scalp while removing dandruff. Ultra-nourishing shea butter, panthenol and “After olive oil quench the awards hair, giving it a soft texture. oribe.com season, this is the product that WELLA PROFESSIONALS OIL REFLECTIONS LUMINOUS REBOOT keeps my MASK replenishes the hair with camellia oil and white tea extract, ALOXXI REPARATIVE celebrity boosting luminosity and nourishing TREATMENT MASQUE the hair. wella.com revitalizes damaged, clients’ hair weak hair with plant proteins, keratin and soft and amino acids, leaving luminous.” hair strong, smooth and shiny. aloxxi.com —CHRISTIAN WOOD, WELLA PROFESSIONALS

“To intensify ARROJO AMERICAN WAVE SUBMERGE the benefits CONDITIONER uses botanicals and a blend of of the nourishing oils to engulf smoothing the hair in hydration. Curls are left smooth, soft and mask, I like bouncy without any added weight. arrojonyc.com AGADIR MOISTURE MASQUE contains to mix in a 100-percent pure argan oil that restores and revitalizes the hair. Infused with keratin few drops of protein, antioxidants and vitamin E, it leaves hair stronger and looking shinier. agadirint.com Moroccanoil Treatment.”

—KEVIN HUGHES, MOROCCANOIL ARTISTIC DIRECTOR & CELEBRITY STYLIST MOROCCANOIL

SMOOTHING MASK is made of highly concentrated argan butter, argan oil and COLORPROOF DEEPQUENCH coconut-derived fatty MOISTURE MASQUE intensly hydrates acids, all of which and nourishes color-treated hair. The rich deeply nourish and formula also provides unsurpassed color smooth dry, frizzy hair. and heat protection. colorproof.com moroccanoil.com

January 2018 americansalon.com 43 BEAUTY VAULT ■ 44 texture. it asmoothandshiny into thehairshaft,giving complex penetrates deep blend. Aphytokeratin a soy andcorn protein longterm hydration with CONDITIONER provides HYDRATING QUENCH DAILY BLOWPRO HYDRA americansalon.com rusk1.com yellowing at bay. keeps brassiness and the treatment also with violet pigment, butter. Formulated hydrating shea blonde hairwith silver, gray or revitalizes platinum, TREATMENT PLATINUMX REPAIR RUSK DEEPSHINE blowpro.com

January 2018 brazilianbondbuilder.com service last for 12washes. results ofthisin-salon to weakened fibers. The and fusingaminoacids penetrating thehairshaft conditioning by intense repair and TREATMENT provides CONDITIONING B3 DEMIPERMANENT areas. around damaged forming abarrier structure while the hair’s inner by moisturizing intense shine strands andadds soothes damaged improves elasticity, NUTRITION MASK KEUNE VITAL keune.com/na basin.” the shampoo massage at minute scalp client afive- give your through and Superfood Pureology comb service, “As asalon CREATIVE DIRECTOR ECRU NEWYORK —LISA LOBOSCO, low setting.” flat-iron on a heat with a Then Iapply foil packets. hair into divide the the mask, I applying “After AMBASSADOR GLOBAL ARTISTIC PUREOLOGY —RUTH ROCHE, moisturized and manageable. pureology.com avocado oilsthat soften strands and leave hair TREATMENT isformulated withcoconut and PUREOLOGY HYDRATE SUPERFOOD and frizzcontrol. goldwell.us structure for improved manageability with kukui nutoilandhydrates thehair regenerates thehairin60seconds SMOOTH 60-SEC TREATMENT GOLDWELL DUALSENSES JUST ecrunewyork.com throughout theday. hydration continuous and itprovides dry, brittle hair, moisture backinto immediately infuse properties that has hydrating PROTEIN MASQUE YORK ACACIA ECRU NEW prorituals.com keratin aminoacids. safflower oil and replenishing itwith damaged hair, strengthens weak, TREATMENT INTENSIVE HYDRATE PRORITUALS LIGHT SHOW BALAYAGE JUST GOT A MAJOR UPGRADE: Colorist Candy Shaw (@thebalaylama), creator of Sunlights Balayage The Balay Box, launched The Balay Box 2.0, a new and improved version. Along with a 500-gram jar of lightener, it includes: The Balay Wrap; The Balay Paddle; new The Loader Brush, used for mixing and transferring to the paddle; The Balay Comb, for babylights and hairline applications; and a DVD with advanced balayage tips like color melting, foil conversion and signature techniques such as Money Piece, Bowlayage, Minking, Skimming and Comb Balay. sunlightsbalayage.com—KH

➤

Nailing It The ombré nail WHEN IT COMES TO GLOBAL NAIL trend was spotted at TRENDS, you don’t have to hop on a plane the OPI-sponsored to discover them, thanks to Instagram. We’re Opening Ceremony LA Preview. seeing trends like geometric design, super graphic hand-painted nail art and even natural-looking nails with glossy, matte or pearlescent finishes pop up on feeds across the globe. We asked three internationally renowned nail artists which nail trends they’re feeling right now.—MS “Barely there, minimalistic nail art is super hot right now. From home décor to fashion, minimalism is becoming a fast-growing trend everywhere. Nude nails usually make me sad, but having tiny splashes of color on them really makes the art stand out. It’s a brilliant way to draw attention to the details, especially on shorter nails.”—Winnie Huang, CND global brand ambassador Creative Play Gel (@winnieawesome) “Ombré and marble nails are huge right now on social media, and so is hand- ➤ painted nail art and Swarovski crystal As seen on the runway embellishments. Most of my clients are up at Jeremy Scott’s spring/ to date on nail trends so they often ask for summer 2017 show, the these type of nails, but I always try to put my graphic nail art trend was own spin on it.”—Jonny Diep Pham, Sydney- present at NYFW. based nail artist (@jonnydieppham) “Cuticle jewelry or cuticle art is trending. It can be a rhinestone cluster, a lacquer arch or geometric shapes around the cuticle. These designs draw the eye up the nail, At the Morgan Taylor- ➤ creating an illusion of length. And, adjusting sponsored Carolina Herrera the shape of the cuticle art can enhance spring/summer 2018 show, the length even more. Just make sure barely there, natural nails cuticles are well manicured and moisturized ruled the catwalk. because they will be the focus.”—Tracey Lee, international nail artist & educator (@TraceyLeeNails) 100 YEARS AND COUNTING — ATTEND THE LONGEST RUNNING BEAUTY SHOW

PRESENTED BY NEW YORK MARCH 4-6 JACOB K. JAVITS CENTER — NEW YORK CITY

FREE WITH YOUR DAILY EXHIBIT HALL ADMISSION

100+ In-booth classes taught by education from leading industry talent top beauty brands

NEW Thousands 2 Stages of products and tools The Mane Attraction at professionals- —— only pricing The Finishing Touch

SAVE $12 PER DAY — REGISTER BY MARCH 3 — IBSNEWYORK.COM

CORPORATE SPONSOR CO-LOCATED WITH AND FREE ADMISSION TO

©2017 QUESTEX MEDIA LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. SOURCE CODE: 100 NEW YORK MARCH 4-6 MASTER CLASS ES ADDITIONAL FEE REQUIRED: $240 by 3/3/18 $265 after 3/3/18 SATURDAY MARCH 3 SUNDAY MARCH 4 MONDAY MARCH 5 CONFERENCE PROGRAM AT A GLANCE 1:00 – 4:00pm 11:00am – 1:00pm 10:00am – 12:00pm ROOM 1E02 ROOM 1E02 ROOM 1E02 The Social Media Summit Beyond Cre8tivity To Be Announced EMCEE: BONNIE BONADEO THE BEAUTY JOHN SIMPSON & VISIT IB YORK.COM SAVE $12 PER DAY AGENT NETWORK CHRISTOPHER DOVE FOR UPDATES NOTE: THIS CLASS IS HELD ON COCRE8 WHEN YOU REGISTER AT SATURDAY MARCH 3 IB YORK.COM

FREE CONFERENCEYOUR PAID PROGRAM EXHIBIT SUBJECT HALL TO CHANGE TICKET HAIR FOCUSED CLASSES TECHNIQUES & TRENDS COLOR EXTENSIONS & LOSS SUNDAY MARCH 4 ROOM 1E21 ROOM 1E15 ROOM 1E20 ROOM 1E14 ROOM 1E09 ROOM 1E16 10:30am – 11:45am Karg + Team, Unplugged The Art of Camo Curls Gone Wild The Color Experience To Be Announced Bridging the Gap Between 18: All American Haircutting MARLO STEENMAN ERIC MOKOTOFF VISIT IB YORK.COM Trichology and Dermatology MIKE KARG PATRICIA GROOMS-JONES MARLO HAIR IAS RAW INDEPENDENT ACADEMY FOR UPDATES RODNEY BARNETT SESSIONS KARG INC THE BEAUTY HAVEN INNOVATIONS TODAY

12:15pm – 1:30pm The Craft of Power to the Tools – Cutting, The Art of Technical Coloring Textured Hair Simple Haircolor Conquer Creative Freedom Precision Cutting Styling & Finishing Cutting TONI GARCIA JACKSON CARLOS VALENZUELA hairtalk extensions PAUL STAFFORD RICHARD SANTIAGO Y FANONE PRODUCT CLUB CARLOS VALENZUELA BEAUTY VICTORIA CASCIOLA DENMAN OLIVIA GARDEN FI HAIR HAIRTALK

2:00pm – 3:15pm The Making of a Great The Art of Curly London Collection Let's Kick Some Brass All-Nutrient Professional Getting Started with Editorial Stylist Hairstyling RICHARD ASHFORTH ELAINE TRAVIS Haircolor for Today's Babe Hair Extensions ED ARD TRICOMI LAUREN MOSER- SAMUELS SACO ACADEMY EXPERT COLOR SOLUTIONS Men & Women KARI FULLER WARREN TRICOMI HAIR LAB DETRIOT TONY DIFRAIA BABE ALL NUTRIENT

3:45pm – 5:00pm NAHA Creation with Bombshell to Boho Moving Hair Volume 2 To Be Announced Color Melting Introductory Hair Extension Sassoon Foundation Blow Dry Styling MARTIN PARSONS VISIT IB YORK.COM ADRIENNE RODGERS Theory by Donna Bella OSCAR BOND & COLE THOMPSON TODD TINNEL INTERMAR PRODUCTIONS FOR UPDATES PRODUCT CLUB BAELEE REITER HATTORI HANZO DYSON DONNA BELLA

MONDAY MARCH 5 ROOM 1E21 ROOM 1E15 ROOM 1E20 ROOM 1E14 ROOM 1E09 ROOM 1E16 10:30am – 11:45am The Joy of Dry Cutting Moving Hair Volume 2 Textured Haircuts for Blondest Blondes Secrets of a Colorist: Growth Factors YANCY ED ARDS MARTIN PARSONS the Rest of Us MAX ELI Coils, Kinks & Curls & Trichology BONIKA SHEARS INTERMAR PRODUCTIONS RYAN TEAL MAX ELI LLP DESTINY COX ATTER THE TEALS DCI ACADEMY XTC - HAIR REJUVENATION SYSTEMS

12:15pm – 1:30pm Karg + Team, Unplugged Creative Haircutting Bridal Styles Foiling & Balayage Simple Haircolor Start, Maintain and 18: All-American Through Fundamentals VERONICA SHUR AMANDA LENZ CARLOS VALENZUELA Repair Locs MIKE KARG AARON JOHNSON VERONICA SHUR PRODUCT CLUB CARLOS VALENZUELA BEAUTY JUSTIN KACE KARG INC THREE EDUCATION JUSTIN KACE

2:00pm – 3:15pm To Be Announced Knowledge Destroys Fear, Reinvent and Make Ban the Brassy: The No More Bleaching Treating Hair Loss from VISIT IB YORK.COM Live Look & Learn More Money Hollywood Caramel Brunette with Lumetrix the Inside/Out FOR UPDATES DJ MULDOON TED GIBSON MARCO PELUSI FRANK DENINNO RODNEY BARNETT THE FACTORY TED GIBSON EDU MARCO PELUSI HAIR STUDIO AVENA BEAUTY INNOVATIONS TODAY

3:45pm – 5:00pm Building Client Tips & Tricks of The Making of a Achieving Grey Coverage To Be Announced Conquer Creative Freedom Loyalty Efficiently Global Texture Great Editorial Stylist and Blending VISIT IB YORK.COM hairtalk extensions AYNE TUGGLE & ROY JAY DESTINY COX ED ARD TRICOMI SHERRY RATAY FOR UPDATES VICTORIA CASCIOLA HATTORI HANZO DCI ACADEMY WARREN TRICOMI SHERRY RATAY INC HAIRTALK HANDS ORKSHOPS ADDITIONAL FEE REQUIRED: $290 by 3/3/18 $315 after 3/3/18

SUN MARCH 4 ROOM 1E04 ROOM 1E11 ROOM 1E13 ROOM 1E03 MON MARCH 5 ROOM 1E04 ROOM 1E11 ROOM 1E13 ROOM 1E03

10:00am - ARROJO Cut Men’s Hair Balayage HD Makeup for 10:00am – Braids & Bridal The Art of The Color Flawless Application 1:00pm American Wave Like a Pro Free-Hand & Foil Print & Film 1:00pm Hair Styling Technical Cutting Experience Techniques for Certification ANZA POOLE Techniques KARI KISCH GENEVIEVE STRAZISAR Y FANONE ERIC MOKOTOFF Brides & Bridal Party NICK ARROJO ICONIC BARBER SHERRY RATAY KARI KISCH MAKEUP TED GIBSON EDU FI HAIR IAS RAW INDEPENDENT EVE PEARL ARROJO NYC SHERRY RATAY HAIR ACADEMY SESSIONS EVE PEARL

2:00pm - Creative Haircut- Balayage Hair The Highlighting Speedy 2:00pm – Beachy Highlights Sahag Dry Cut Donna Bella Grow a BOOMING 5:00pm ting Techniques Painting Strategy that Application of 5:00pm & Hair-Painting EIJI YAMANE Hands-On Certifi- Brow Business in that will Leave JIMMY HILTON Works on Everyone Individual Volume Made Simple SAHAG WORKSHOPS cation Course Your Salon You Fearless! TED GIBSON EDU MARCO PELUSI Lash Extensions ELAINE TRAVIS BAELEE REITER MALYNDA VIGIOTTI DJ MULDOON MARCO PELUSI HAIR QUYEN NGUYEN EXPERT COLOR DONNA BELLA HAIR BOOM BOOM BROW BAR THE FACTORY STUDIO INC. EVALASH BEAUTY SOLUTIONS EXTENSIONS

FREE YOUR PAID EXHIBIT HALL TICKET

MEN’S MAKEUP NAIL ART THE BUSINESS SIDE OF BEAUTY ROOM 1E19 ROOM 1E18 ROOM 1E05 ROOM 1E10 ROOM 1E07 ROOM 1E08 SUNDAY MARCH 4 Classic Barbering 101 Brush Up! The Modern Master Your Technique 3 Powerful Steps to Mastering Your Leadership To Be Announced 10:30am – 11:45am GREG ZORIAN Airbrushed Bride JAIME SCHRABECK Raising Your Prices PAUL DIGRIGOLI VISIT IB YORK.COM ZORIAN OF NEW YORK JILL GLASER PRECISION NAILS ZAN RAY DIGRIGOLI SEMINARS FOR UPDATES MAKE UP FIRST SCHOOL ZAN RAY SALON COACH

Johnny B. Elite Clipper Flawless Bridal Squeeze, Slice and Roll! The #1 Marketing Tool to Power-On for Success To Be Announced 12:15pm – 1:30pm Cutting Techniques Application Techniques POLYGEL by GELISH Grow Your Business SHANNON LEEHR VISIT IB YORK.COM GABRIEL QUINONES EVE PEARL JESSE BRUNER ALEJANDRA CRISAFULLI STX FOR UPDATES JOHNNY B. HAIRCARE EVE PEARL GELISH & BONNIE BONADEO NAP EVENTS

Flawless Fades To Be Announced From Full Set to On Set: Salon Success Secrets Financial Fitness– #NoSlowDays 2:00pm – 3:15pm KENNY DUNCAN VISIT IB YORK.COM Session Manicuring DEREK MALDANADO 6 Ways to Increase DESTINY COX ANDIS FOR UPDATES ASHLEY GREGORY INSPIRING CHAMPIONS Profitability DCI ACADEMY THE NAILSCAPE STEPHEN GOMEZ STEPHEN GOMEZ BUSINESS COACHING

Total Men’s Grooming Strip Lashes 101 Stop Whining and Nail It! Attract New Clients with a Strategic New Advantages Social Media and the 3:45pm – 5:00pm RODRICK SAMUELS LISA STRA THER LÁSHAUN BRO 5-Star Online Reputation of Salon Suites! Power of Influence HAIR LAB DETRIOT MAKING UP LAS VEGAS SPEAKING ON POINT JUSTIN ALLEN LARRY OSKIN EVE PEARL IMATRIX MARKETING SOLUTIONS EVE PEARL

ROOM 1E19 ROOM 1E18 ROOM 1E05 ROOM 1E10 ROOM 1E07 ROOM 1E08 MONDAY MARCH 5 To Be Announced Editorial Face From Full Set to On Set: 3 Powerful Steps to Successful Pricing, To Be Announced 10:30am – 11:45am VISIT IB YORK.COM LISA STRA THER Session Manicuring Raising Your Prices Service Menu & Marketing VISIT IB YORK.COM FOR UPDATES MAKING UP LAS VEGAS ASHLEY GREGORY ZAN RAY Device Strategies FOR UPDATES THE NAILSCAPE ZAN RAY SALON COACH LARRY OSKIN MARKETING SOLUTIONS

The Iconic Philly Fade How to Microblade: Squeeze, Slice and Roll! Generation Gap Recruiting 101: Become a Social 12:15pm – 1:30pm ANZA POOLE Create Diva Style Brows POLYGEL by GELISH Communications The Do’s and Don’ts Media Maven & CRAIG MCLAURIN QUYEN NGUYEN JESSE BRUNER ALEJANDRA CRISAFULLI STEPHEN GOMEZ SHANNON LEEHR ICONIC BARBER EVALASH BEAUTY GELISH & BONNIE BONADEO STEPHEN GOMEZ BUSINESS COACHING STX NAP EVENTS

Tour of Techniques Elevating Eyes Charge What You're Worth! Attract New Clients with a The 168 Hour Theory to Social Media - Strategies 2:00pm – 3:15pm JES SUTTON KARI KISCH LÁSHAUN BRO 5-Star Online Reputation Entrepreneurial Success for Any Business or Budget & ANTHONY MARASCO KARI KISCH SPEAKING ON POINT JUSTIN ALLEN NIKKI TRO AMY CARTER BARBETORIUM EDUCATION IMATRIX THE STATEMENT PROJECT EMPOWERING YOU

Cut and Style the Corrective Makeup: Waterless Spa Pedicure Mastering Your Leadership Common Misconceptions Social Media - 3:45pm – 5:00pm Perfect Pomp Contouring & Highlighting JAIME SCHRABECK PAUL DIGRIGOLI in the Beauty Biz Play To Win GREG ZORIAN in 2 Steps PRECISION NAILS DIGRIGOLI SEMINARS TINA ALBERINO PATRICK MCIVOR ZORIAN OF NEW YORK EVE PEARL THE UGLY BEAUTY BUSINESS PATRICK MCIVOR COLOR STUDIO, INC EVE PEARL ■

TALK SHOW TALK ADIR ABERGEL ew words best sum up Adir Abergel’s (@hairbyadir) career as F a Hollywood hairstylist ABERGEL WITH JENNIFER GARNER WITH DIANE KRUGER than “in demand.” Using hair as his principal medium, he deftly challenges red carpet conventions to exquisite effect, integrating beauty and originality into a single expression. Consider Rooney Mara’s fierce braided updo that was one of the most buzzed about styles at the 2016 Golden Globes or Saoirse Ronan’s gold-twined braids spotted at the same event that set a major trend. And, let’s not forget about WITH REESE WITHERSPOON WITH EIZA GONZÁLEZ Kristen Stewart’s distinctive punk style and bleached white strands that made headlines at the 2016 Met Gala, or Gwyneth Paltrow’s chic low pony at the 2012 Oscars that remains a cult classic to this day. “I’m a big believer in celebrating individual style, creating the most beautiful

ADIR ABERGEL

WITH JESSICA BIEL WITH DEEPIKA PADUKONE influencers the Meet the Los Angeles-based creative force behind some of Hollywood’s most memorable moments.

50 americansalon.com January 2018 “I’m a big believer in celebrating individual style, creating the most beautiful and interesting hair possible and making women feel confident.”—ADIR ABERGEL

and interesting hair possible and Leia buns and Jennifer Beals’ These days, Abergel, who making women feel confident,” Flashdance shag. As Abergel also serves as creative director says Abergel, whose skill recounted to Allure magazine of biotech haircare brand Virtue coupled with his loving energy in February 2017, “Arthur was Labs, is immersed in planning and have allowed him to establish a genius and really taught me prepping for the 2018 Hollywood long-term relationships with a how to do what I love, which is awards season. “January is loyal celebrity following. hair. He could take two hairs and already getting really busy—it At the outset, Abergel make them into a sculpture.” kicks off with the Golden Globes intended to be a professional Abergel’s career trajectory on January 7,” says Abergel, who dancer but an injury forced him eventually segued from salons likes to go to the library and pore to consider his second love: to sets in the 1990s, where he through books on different time hair. At 15, he landed a gig in crafted hair for music videos, periods and cultures or turn to Los Angeles as apprentice to working with the likes of Missy nature, looking at mountains legendary stylist Arthur John at Elliott, Jewel, Britney Spears or sculptural rocks for ideas on his namesake salon. “He used to and TLC. He then landed a shapes and textures to source do everyone from Chaka Khan plum job with actress Jennifer inspiration. “It is very individual to Tina Turner, Olivia Newton- Garner, who was starring in the to my client. The most important John, The Carpenters and Zsa hit TV series Alias at the time, thing for me is not to homogenize Zsa Gabor,” says Abergel of ultimately leading Abergel to everyone. I love to celebrate John, who was also the stylist become the artist behind some individuality.”

PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF ADIR ABERGEL behind Carrie Fisher’s Princess of Hollywood’s hottest hairstyles. —Kelley Donahue

January 2018 americansalon.com 51 ■

TALK SHOW TALK

PALAU AND WOOD, WHO ARE GOOD FRIENDS AS WELL AS PEERS, SAT DOWN TO TALK ACHIEVEMENTS, OVERCOMING CHALLENGES AND HOW INSPIRATION IS ESSENTIAL TO PUSHING BEAUTY INTO BOLD NEW

TERRITORIES. Palau, left, with Wood artists’ session CALLING (@guidopalau) a hair visionary is an understatement. The gifted artist GUIDO juggles everything from fashioning coifs for major ad campaigns and PALAU powerhouse publications to crafting style statements on more than 100 runways. EQUALLY (@joshwoodcolour) is arguably one of the most influential colorists TALENTED, in the world. In addition to elevating color on the catwalks, Wood has JOSH WOOD pioneered game-changing techniques such as hyper-natural, making gray OK and surf-kissed, all of which have left an indelible mark on the international beauty scene.

52 americansalon.com January 2018 JOSH WOOD: Guido, we’ve JW: I find inspiration for my work both been in the industry for a number all around me but art is a constant of years—I got my start working at catalyst. Where do you look for creative Vidal Sassoon in Leeds and my first big inspiration? break was working with David Bowie. GP: The streets have always been a How did you get your start? What was huge influence on me; how real people your first career breakthrough, and how wear their hair and how youth culture has your career changed since then? appropriates its style remain big GUIDO PALAU: My career inspirations. breakthrough came when I worked on JW: Between photo shoots and the George Michael “Freedom! ’90” fashion weeks, we are both traveling video. Looking back, it was such a huge frequently. I’m based in London, but shift from where I was. From that point my favorite cities to visit are Mumbai on, my career took off. I’ve been lucky. and New York City, where you’re based. JW: One of the biggest challenges I’ve What’s your favorite city to visit, for faced is keeping ahead of the curve, work or fun? staying inspired and being able to GP: I always love Paris. I also love the share that inspiration. Have you ever West Coast. felt particularly challenged or defeated JW: We’ve worked together on several in your career, and how did you campaigns and runway shows. One of overcome it? my favorite things we’ve done together GP: Constantly! You’ve got to keep is Prada. How do you see haircolor soldiering on, finding inspiration and evolving at Fashion Week in the coming challenging yourself. As with anything, seasons? if you’re feeling a bit deflated, you GP: At the moment, hair is about must tap into that inner self and push celebrating models’ individuality. I yourself. When you’ve had a long hope that will influence real people to career, that’s how you achieve it. It’s celebrate their own naturalness and not all smooth sailing. You can’t rest on their own beauty. We’re at a really past glories. You have to keep going pivotal point in terms of beauty and and recognize that you’re not always inclusion, which is very exciting for both going to feel 100-percent inspired. But, men and women. there is always something that I find JW: I began my role as Redken’s global in myself that pushes me forward. You color creative director last year, and I’m must look for that. already a huge fan of City Beats and the JW: What advice would you give to an new Shades EQ Pastels. You’ve been aspiring stylist? the brand’s global creative director for GP: Be true to yourself. Don’t take 13 years. What are your go-to Redken criticism personally. Go with your products? madness. GP: My favorites are Triple Take 32, Wind Blown 05 and Shine Flash 02. JW: What would you say are the most important lessons—in life and behind TOP LEFT: The consummate colorist, Josh Wood perfects one of his the chair—that you’ve learned over the signature techniques; course of your career? Guido Palau brings his expressive GP: Stay true to yourself, keep your style backstage at spring 2018 Dolce & Gabbana fashion show. eyes open and continue learning. Never feel that you’ve reached your peak.

Keep striving for more.

January 2018 americansalon.com 53 ■

Young Americans TALK SHOW TALK

MIA SANTIAGO

hio native Mia Santiago TIM LEHMAN (@miasantiagohair) fell for hairdressing after watching Sally OHershberger on an episode of Shear Genius. So, she did what many aspiring stylists do: enrolled in school, headed to New York City and landed an assistant gig. Many long days and haircuts later, Santiago has become a sought-after stylist at Sharon Dorram at Sally Hershberger on New York City’s Upper East Side, a